Skip to main content

Full text of "The statistical account of Scotland. Drawn up from the communications of the ministers of the different parishes"

See other formats 


This  is  a  digital  copy  of  a  book  that  was  preserved  for  generations  on  library  shelves  before  it  was  carefully  scanned  by  Google  as  part  of  a  project 
to  make  the  world's  books  discoverable  online. 

It  has  survived  long  enough  for  the  copyright  to  expire  and  the  book  to  enter  the  public  domain.  A  public  domain  book  is  one  that  was  never  subject 
to  copyright  or  whose  legal  copyright  term  has  expired.  Whether  a  book  is  in  the  public  domain  may  vary  country  to  country.  Public  domain  books 
are  our  gateways  to  the  past,  representing  a  wealth  of  history,  culture  and  knowledge  that's  often  difficult  to  discover. 

Marks,  notations  and  other  marginalia  present  in  the  original  volume  will  appear  in  this  file  -  a  reminder  of  this  book's  long  journey  from  the 
publisher  to  a  library  and  finally  to  you. 

Usage  guidelines 

Google  is  proud  to  partner  with  libraries  to  digitize  public  domain  materials  and  make  them  widely  accessible.  Public  domain  books  belong  to  the 
public  and  we  are  merely  their  custodians.  Nevertheless,  this  work  is  expensive,  so  in  order  to  keep  providing  this  resource,  we  have  taken  steps  to 
prevent  abuse  by  commercial  parties,  including  placing  technical  restrictions  on  automated  querying. 

We  also  ask  that  you: 

+  Make  non-commercial  use  of  the  files  We  designed  Google  Book  Search  for  use  by  individuals,  and  we  request  that  you  use  these  files  for 
personal,  non-commercial  purposes. 

+  Refrain  from  automated  querying  Do  not  send  automated  queries  of  any  sort  to  Google's  system:  If  you  are  conducting  research  on  machine 
translation,  optical  character  recognition  or  other  areas  where  access  to  a  large  amount  of  text  is  helpful,  please  contact  us.  We  encourage  the 
use  of  public  domain  materials  for  these  purposes  and  may  be  able  to  help. 

+  Maintain  attribution  The  Google  "watermark"  you  see  on  each  file  is  essential  for  informing  people  about  this  project  and  helping  them  find 
additional  materials  through  Google  Book  Search.  Please  do  not  remove  it. 

+  Keep  it  legal  Whatever  your  use,  remember  that  you  are  responsible  for  ensuring  that  what  you  are  doing  is  legal.  Do  not  assume  that  just 
because  we  believe  a  book  is  in  the  public  domain  for  users  in  the  United  States,  that  the  work  is  also  in  the  public  domain  for  users  in  other 
countries.  Whether  a  book  is  still  in  copyright  varies  from  country  to  country,  and  we  can't  offer  guidance  on  whether  any  specific  use  of 
any  specific  book  is  allowed.  Please  do  not  assume  that  a  book's  appearance  in  Google  Book  Search  means  it  can  be  used  in  any  manner 
anywhere  in  the  world.  Copyright  infringement  liability  can  be  quite  severe. 

About  Google  Book  Search 

Google's  mission  is  to  organize  the  world's  information  and  to  make  it  universally  accessible  and  useful.  Google  Book  Search  helps  readers 
discover  the  world's  books  while  helping  authors  and  publishers  reach  new  audiences.  You  can  search  through  the  full  text  of  this  book  on  the  web 


at|http  :  //books  .  google  .  com/ 


MYK  RESEARCH  UBRARIES 


3433  06933169  6 


■J' 


s' 


v.,^K. 


y 


'i^  "C }'  y  .'11*    '''vv.     ^<',  .  ■^>''   / .  •.  vf-  ^-  X^^^    ^'  %  ~ 


.v:-^-^-: 


c-  -t^^.' 


f;^:  w  ■  H^-'-^'  -i:^;!^  V 


T 


■"^   T'V.-  *!i.vr».  . 


M 


rat 
STATISTICAL  ACCOUNT 

OP 

SCOTLAND. 

DRAWN  UP  FROM  THE  COMMUNICATIONS 

OF  THE 

MINIS T E  R S 

OF  THE 

DIFFERENT    PARISHES. 
BtSikJOHN  SINCLAIR,  Bart.        ~ 


VOLUME  FIRST.VV. 


•-  -       • 


•  ^.    •• 


EDINBURGH: 

PRINTED  AND  SOLD  BY  WILLIAM  CREECH; 

^KD  ALSO  SOLD  BY  J.  DONALDSON^  AND  A.  GUTHRlEt  £DINBURCM; 

T.  CADBLLi  J.  STOCKDALBy  J*  DEBRETT,  AND  J.  SBWELf 

LONDON;   DUNLOP  AND  WILSON,    GLASGOW; 

ANGirS  AMD  SON,   ABERDEEN. 

MyDCCiXCI. 


•••    •  ••- 


INTRODUCTION. 


IT  is  BOW  about  twelve  months  fince  I  firft  had  the 
honour  of  circulating  among  the  Clergy  of  the 
Church  of  Scotland  a  variety  of  Queries,  for  the  pur« 
pofe  of  elucidating  the  Natural  Hiftory  and  jPoIitical 
State  of  that  Country.  My  original  idea  was,  to  have 
drawn  up  from  their  returns  a  general  Statiftical  view 
of  North  Britain,  without  any  particular  reference  to 
Parochial  diftrids«  But  I  found  fuch  merit  and  abi- 
lity, and  fo  many  ufeful  fads  and  important  obferva* 
tions  in  the  anfwers  which  were  fent  me,  that  I  could 
not  think  of  depriving  the  Clergy  of  the  credit  they 
were  entitled  to  derive  from  fuch  laborious  ezer£ionsi 
and  I  was  thence  induced  to  give  the  Work'M  £he 
Publicin  its  prefent  ihapet  ,  .'<y.  '*'/:*••'. 

It  would  have  been  more  defirable  to-nsrv^'Kacl*  '•.*'.•• 
the  accounts  of  the  different  Parifhes  arrang^..5y,  ' 
Prefbyteries  or  Counties,  for  the  purpofe  of '  coi^ 
nexion,  and  to  prevent  repetition,  where  the  circum- 
fiances  of  the  diflPerent  diftrids  were  nearly  fimilar. 
But  it  was  not  to  be  expedted  that  complete  informa- 
tion refpe&ing  any  one  of  the  larger  divifions  of  the 
Kingdom)  could  be  at  once  obtained*  It  was  there- 
fore 


<    vi    ) 

fere  thought  moft  advifable  to  throw  as  much  varie« 
ly  as  poflible  into  the  Firft  Volume,  that  the  Reader 
might  be  enabled  to  form  fome  general  idea  of  the 
State  of  the  Kingdom  even  from  this  parf  of  the 
Work.  Whether  the  fame  plan  is  to  be  perfevered 
in,  pr  whether  more  regularity  and  connexion  are  to 
be  attended  to  in  future,  will  depend  on  the  unani« 
mity  and  difpatch  with  which  the  Clergy  tranfmk  the 
necefiary  information  to  the  Author. 

The  variety  of  bufinefs,  both  of  a  public  and  of  a 
private  nature,  in  which  I  have  of  late  been  engaged, 
has  prevented  me  from  arranging  or  abridging,  fb 
completely  as  otherwife  I  fiiould  have  done,  the  an- 
fwers  included  ip^  this  Volume;  and,  indeed,  that 
part  of  the  Work  muft  be  attended  with  confiderable 
difficulty,  unlefs  the  Clergy  in  general  will  do,  what 
many  «if  them  have  very  faccefsfuUy  executed,  name- 
ly,*'Cr^tmit  their  accounts  prepared  for  immediate* 
.puUicaHpn*  Anfwers  to  the  Queries,  however,  which 
;havcr*been.cilsculated,  are  dill  requefted;  but,  where 
it  *is;cfqo9i!y' convenient,  it  is  certainly  more  defirable 
i^at  li\e.*dergy  fhould  condder  the  Queries  merely  as 
0hj[io  inquiry  ;  and  the  models  which  are  ^w  fet 
before  them,  together  with  the  annexed  Analylis,  will 
be  of  fervice  in  pointing  out  the  beft  mode  of  draw* 
ing  up  the  Statiftical  Account  of  the  different  dt« 
ftriast 


l£ 


.**• 


<  ♦»  ) 

It  would  be  improper  to  conclude  without  retutfiiing^ 
my  beft  acknowledgments  to  the  Clergy  in  general,  for 
the  attention  they  hare  paid  to  the  different  requifi- 
tions  with  which  I  have  troubled  them,  and  for  the 
very  polite  and  flattering  manner  with  which  they  have 
perfonatty  ^ddrefl^  th^mfehres  tp  me  on  the  occafiom 
The  fpirit  and  alacrity  with  which  they  have  enga-^ 
ged  in  fo  laborious  aA  undertaking  muft  ever  do 
them  infinite  credit  |^  and  they  muft  feel  the  utmoft 
iadsfafiion  from  the  refledios,  that  they  have  con- 
tributed to  the  formation  of  a  Work,  of  which  it 
may  be  truly  faid,  in  the  words  of  a  refpedable  citi- 
zen of  this  country  *,  ^^  That  no  Publication  of  equal 
'*  information  and  curioiity  has  appeared  in  Great 
'^  Britain  fince  Dooms-day  Book;  and  that,  from  the 
**  ample  and  authentic  hGts  which  it  records,  it  muft 
^^  be  reforted  to  by  every  future  Statefman,  Philofo* 
^*  pher,  and  Divine,  as  the  beft  baiis  that  has  ever 
^  jet'  appeared  for  political  fpeculation. 


ff 


*  Gcotge  Dempftcr,  £f4; 

ANALT. 
anm. 


ni.  MAT  25.7 
I  7  »  «•      5 


ANALYSIS 

OF 

The  Statijikal  Account  rfa  Parochial  Di/iri^^ 

As  many  of  the  Clergy  may  be  defirons  of  having  a  particu- 
lar form  laid  down  for  drawing  up  the  Statlftical  Accoont 
of  their  refpeftive  Parifhes,  the  following  plan  for  that 
pm'pofe  is  iubmittcd  to  their  conCderation* 

^he  name,  and  its  origin 

Situation  and  extent  of  the  parlih 

Number  of  acres 

Defcription  of  the  foil  and  furfiice 

Nature  and  extent  of  the  fea  coaft 

Lakes,  rivers,  tflandS|  hills,  rocksj  caves^  woodS|  orchatdSi  ftc. 

Qimate  and  difeafes 

Inftances  of  longevity 

State  of  property 

Number  of  proprietors 

Number  of  reiiding  proprietofi    - 

Mode  of  cultivation 

Impkcnents  of  hufbandry 

Manures 

Seed-time  and  harveft 

Remarkable  inftances  of  good  and  bad  feafdiii 

Quantity  and  value  of  each  fpecies  of  crop 

Total  value  of  the  whole  produce  of  the  diftri£l 

Total  real  and  valued  rent 

Price  of  grain  and  provifions 

To;at 


(  «  ) 

Total  quantity  of  gnun  and  other  articles  confumed  in  the 

parilb 
Wages  and  price  of  labour 
Services,  whether  exafled  or  aboli(hed 
G>mfnerce 
Manu£i£ture8 
Manoiafture  of  kelp^  its  amount^  and  the  ntkmber  of  peopit 

employed  in  it 
Fifheries 

Towns  and  villages 
Police 

Inns  and  ale^-houfes 
Roads  and  bridges 
Harbours 

Ferriesi  and  their  ftate 
Number  of  (hips  and  veilels 
Number  of  feamen 
State  of  the  church 
Stipend,  manfe,  glebe,  and  patroli 
Number  of  poor 

Parochial  funds,  and  the  management  of  them 
State  of  the  fchools,  and  number  of  fcholars 
Antient  ftate  of  population 
Caufeso£its  increafe  or  decreafe 
Nuaiber  of  families 

EzaA  amount  of  the  number  of  fouls  now  living 
Divifion  of  the  Inhabitants 

!•  By  the  place  of  their  birth 

a*  By  their  ages 

3.  By  their  religious  perfuafions 

4«  By  their  occupations  and  fituation  in  life 

5*  By  their  reiidence,  whether  in  town^  TiUagej  or  In  the 
country 

Vol.  I«  k  Number 


Kumber  ef  houfet 

■■  *     uninhalMted  houfes 

dovc-cotjf,  apd  to  what  c:|tciit  tkejaure  d9ftrqW?t 

to  the  crops 

•*— ^ horfcs,  their  nature,  and  value 

>.    I  cattle  and  ditto  ' 


-r  (heep  and  ditto 
—  fwine  and  ditto 


Minerals  in  general 

Mineral  fpring$ 

Coal  and  fuel 

Eminent  meq 

Antiquities 

Parochial  records 

Mifcellaneous  obfervatioos 

Character  of  the  people 

Their  mannersi  cuftoms,  ftaturCi  &c. 

Advantages  and  din.dvAuiatrcs 

^cdfis  by  whicl^  thfir  iituatioin  ^ot^d  be  meliontfpcl 


C0^{, 


(  rf  ) 


CONTENTS, 
Wo.  Pa^ 

I.  Parifli  of  Jedburgh        ,.        ^  ^  .            X 

y.  .   ,  Holy  wood             «  •            «            1 8 

3«             I  Portpatrick            m  -            «»            37 

4,            I  Hounam             •  •            ^             4g 

J.       ■  <    I  Kickmicha4            ^  *           ^            54 

^.  •..^.«  Sproufton           9  •            «             65 

f »  ■    I    ,..  LoQgformacus            •  *            •      v  69 

f.  ■  Lauder        .           »  *           *          7t 

j^,             ■  ^jtoQ           »           *  •        V            79 

»e,  ,    '     '  ■  Air           -           -  -           •             89  ^ 

J  I.          ■■  Camden           «i  m         ^       ^         gy 

12.  ■  Cpylton           •         -  m        ^         lojT- 

13.  ,.,    Ballamrae*  -  »  «»  Y03 

14.  ■     Terreglci  -  -           •            114 
I  J.  ,  ■  I    Edrom           •  •        «           •        |i6 
16.  ■■■  iDDcrwick  1'            •            V            izt 
s  J.  ,  ,i    Iiinioi^  (in  Peebleibire)  «           •        186 
18.  ■  Newlaods  •           •             •            I48 
sp,  ......^    Kirkmaiden  •  *           ^          153 

^o.  ■  TinwaU         -  «            «         *        '59 

«u  ■  ■    CrofmnichacI  -            -            •        uij 

92.  -*-«-•    Parton  *  •  ^       •         184 

93.  ij    CovingtoQ        V         «  f        •         190 

Pariik 

^  It  may  be  proper  to  remark,  that,  by  £bme  iniftake»  it  was 
yiitted  to  be  mentioned^  that  the  account  of  Ballantrae  waa 
tmfiiiicted  by  the  Rey.  Mr  William  Donaldibn,  minifier  of  tha^ 
fui%  who  took  a  rery  early  and  aAire  part  in  thii  i&^uiry. 


(    xu    ) 

Ko.  tzgii 

24.  Paiilh  of  Troquire             •  •  .            194 

25.  — — ^—  Muiravonfide  -  •  •  200 
2j6.  I  Pehponi  •  ^  -  -  203 
27.  ■  Cramond  -  •  •  211 
2B.  — — —  Dalmeoy  -  -  -  -  227 
2p.  •  Sorbie  ...»  242 
^o.  •  Kilteam  *  .  1  .  259 
2 1.           i  ■  Rothfay             •  •            -             301 

32.  ■  Kingarth             .  •             •            ^^^ 

33,  ■        1  Hottfton  and  KilaUah  «           *        3^5 

34- ^  B'gg»           :.       -  -           ^         ZU 

3j.            ■  Dunfyre         •        •  «            «         227 

^(j, Ycftcr        A            4  .            .         2^^ 

37.  ■  Bathgate         -           .  -         -        348 

38.  ■  Stranraer             -  *            .            ^c^ 

39.  — — —  Kettle            -            •  i         .         2(j^ 

40.  — —  Dclting          .            .  -.            -          385 

41.  — *-  Kilrennie  -  .  .  j^q^ 
42*  ■  Arngafk  -  .  ^  ^,^ 
4^^  >  Dunnichen  •  •  •  ^iq 
44.  I  1  Garmylie  •  *  «.  4^^ 
4^.  ■  Panbride         •            ^  *         *        438 

46,  — '  Lunan            -            -  -         -        441 

47,  ..  Auchterderran        -  -     ,      -         449 

48,  — ■^—  Kinlofs             •  •              -            462 

49,  — —  Oathlaw  -  .  *  4«j 
^o«  ■  Gacurie  .  «  .  ^gp 
51.  '  ■  Gaik  •  •  •  47^ 
j2.  ■■  ■  Lifoiore  and  Appin  *  I  482 
53.  — — —  Meigle           •             .  .             ^oj 

STATIS- 


STATISTICAL  ACCOUNT 

OF 

SCOTLAND* 

P  ART     L 


NUMBER     L 
PARISH  OF  JEDBURGH* 

0 

trom  Materials  furmfbed  by  the  Rev.  Dr.  Thomas  SoMEtt« 
VILLB  Mintfter  of  Jedhrgh. 


Origin  aftbi  Name. 

IN  ^  charter  granted  bj  WiUiam  the  Lyon  of  Scotland,  id 
the  abbot  and  monks  of  Jedburgh,  in  the  year  1 165  % 
the  names  of  Jedwarth  and  Jedburgh  are  promifcnoufly 
ttfed  ^  bat  in  modem  times  the  name  of  Jedburgh  alone  is 
retained.  The  name  is  fometimes  written  with  a  G ;  and  is 
faid  to  be  derived  from  the  Gadeni,  a  tribe  who  antiently  in- 
habited the  whole  traft  of  country  that  lies  between  Nor- 
thumberland and  the  river  Tiviot.  It  was  perhaps  the  caplc 
tal  city  bdongmg  to  the  tribe,  and  hence  obtained  the  taxai 
of  Gadborgh  or  Jedburgh. 

Vol.  L  a  Extent. 

•  A  fac  fimilc  copy  of  this  charter  ^k2&  pdbliQicd  at  EdiiH 
tergh  by  A.  Belli  anno  iTJii 


%  Stati/iical  Account 

ExUnt. — ^Thc  extent  of  this  parifli  is  confidcrablc,  being 
about  tbirteen  miles  long,  and  in  fome  places  not  Icfs  than  fix 
or  fevcn  miles  broad  !  But  the  figore  5s  irregular,  being  fre. 
'  quently  Interfered  by  the  parifhes  of  Oxnam  and  Southdean. 
It  is  bounded  by  Northumberland  on  the  fouth  and  fouth* 
eaft,  by  the  parifh  of  Oxnam  on  the  eaft^  by  Southdean  on 
the  fouth*and  fouth- weft,  by  Bedrufe  on  the  weft,  by  Ancrum 
on  the  north  and  north^weft^  and  by  Crailing  on  the  north- 
eaft. 

SUuatkn  and  Surface. — ^The  pari(h  is  fituated  within  the 
county  of  Roxburgh  or  Tiviotdale,  It  is  the  ftat  of  a 
prelbytery,  (that  of  Jedburgh)  and  belongs  to  the  fynod  of 
Mcrfc  an4  Tivtotdale.  The  foil  is  various.  The  lower  part 
of  the  parifl),  lying  upon  the  banks  of  the  Tiviot,  is  flat,  and 
in  general  coniifts  of  light  loam  \  but  fome  part  of  it  is  gra* 
velifli,  and  fome  deep  clay.  By  far  the  greater  part  of  the 
parifh,  however,  conflfts  of  hills  and  (heep  farms.  The  hills 
are  generally  green  and  dry ;  but  the  interjacent  flats  are  co- 
vered with  bent,  and  rather  fwampy.  On  the  whole,  not 
above  a  fifth  or  fixth  part  of  the  parifh  confifts  of  arable 
gFOuiidt* 

ClimaUt  D^qfijf  bV. — ^Tke  dimate  al(b  varies  ix»  different 
ports  of  the  parifli.  It  is  o&en  mild  and  temperate  in  the 
town  of  Jedburgh,  environed  with  the  hi^h  bapks  of  the  ad. 
jacent  river,  while  it  is  fharp  and  cold  at  the  diflaiice  of 
a  mile  or  two.  The  town  itfclf  is  peculiarly  healthy,  fewer 
epidemical  diflempers  prevaiiiDg  therp  than  in  the  neigh*, 
bouring  town&  of  Hawick  and  Kelfo»  The  rheumatiiin  is 
the  moft  common  diforder,  which,  though  not  frequent  a«- 
xnong  people  of  better  ftation,  who  are  comfortably  cloth- 
ed, fed,  and  lodged,  is  neverthelcfs  very  general  anaong  the 
poorei^  fort  of  people^  particularly  fuch  as  are  advanced  in 

'  life. 


of  Jedburgh.  5 

lile,  whOf  in  coDfequeoce  of  their  miferabk  mode  of  livings  and 
fiiU  more  oi  the  coldocfs  and  daiDpnefs  of  their  houfes^  owing 
partly  to  the  fcarcity  and  high  price  of  fcwel,  have  too  much 
reafon  to  complain  of  what  they  call  the  pains^  or  the  pains 
within  them.  The  air,  however,  on  the  wbolcj  being  very 
ialubrious,  there  ar^  many  inflanccs  of  longevity  in  the  pa« 
rifli.  An  old  woman,  who  died  15  years  ago,  faid  that  ihe 
was  105  ;  but  her  name  was  not  in  the  pariih  record.  There 
are  feveral  now  living,  both  in  the  town  and  country  part  of 
the  parifib,  above  8o.  Many  have  furvived  90  during  the  in- 
cumbency of  the  prcfent  miniftcr  ;  and  there  are  three  per- 
ions  in  the  town',  now  living,  who  are  ;^bove  90.  There  is 
alfo  a  ihephcrd  in  the  94th  year  of  his  age,  who  atteiads  his 
flock  as  ufual.  The  ravages  which  the  fmalUpox  formerly 
made  have  been  greatly  mitigated,  innoculation  being  of  late 
very  general  and  very  fucccfsful.  In  order  to  reconcile  the 
niinds  of  the  common  people  to  this  ufcful  prafticc,  the  he* 
ritors  of  Jedburgh,  about  ten  years  ago,  allowed  a  fmall  fum 
<o  defray  the  expence  of  innoculating  the  children  of  the 
poor,  at  a  period  when  the  difeafe  was  peculiarly  fatal.  Thi$ 
generous  delign  was  attended  wiih  the  hap;:4eft  fuccefs  4  a- 
mong  a  tbouland  patients,  innoculj»ted  by  Dr  Lindiay  ia 
the  courfeof  above  20  year^  prad^ice,  only  two  have  been  loll^ 
and  there  is  the  ftrongefl  reafon  to  believe  that  thefc  two  had 
been  previoufly  infe^d  in  ihe  natural  way*  The  other  phy- 
ficiaos  and  furgeons  of  the  pbce  have  alio  been,  it  \%  believ- 
o]|  equally  fortunate  in  this  important  branch  of  tlxeir  pradlico. 

Rivers, — ^The  river  Jed,  which  runs  through  this  parifli, 
has  ks  fource  in  the  north  fide  of  the  Carter-hill,  in  the  par 
rHh  of  Southdean,  about  the  diflance  of  fourteen  miles  from 
ihe  town  of  Jedburgh  K    It  abounds  with  trouts,  particur 

larly 

•  On  the  fouth  fide  of  the  fame  hill,  the  river  Tyne,  which 
9Uii%  by  ^^cwcaillc9  takes  its  rife. 


4  Staiijiical  JccmH 

larly  vtth  z  fpecies  of  fmalL  red  trout,  of  an  ciodlent  Bxwoar* 
The  river  Tiyiot  alfo  pafles  through  this  parifli }  the  baaks  of 
which  at  firft  are  fteep,  and  its  courfe  rapid,  yet  afterwards 
|t  flows  in  beautiful  curves,  through  wide  and  fertile  haughs* 
In  addition  to  its  natural,  it  is  to  be  hoped,  that,  in  time,  it  will 
have  artificial  ftreams,  as  it  is  believed,  from  a  late  furvey,  that 
a  canal  might  be  carried  from  the  fca  to  Ancnim  Bridge.  At 
prefent,  however,  there  are  no  internal  commodities  to  com* 
penfate  for  thp  gresit  f!xpenf e  which  fuch  a  work  would  re- 
guire. 

Mineral  Sfrings.-^Thcre  are  two  chalybeate  fpring*  near 
Jedburgh,  and  there  are  appearances  of  more  in  difierent  placet 
of  the  pariih,  which  have  never  been  yet  properly  inveftigated» 
One  of  the  former,  called  Tud  Hope  Well,  has  been  uied  witk 
fuc^eft  in  fcorbutic,  and,  it  is  faid,  in  rheumatic  diforders. 

Hitts.T^Thc  moft  remarkable  hill  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
Jedburgh,  is  the  Duman^  which  is  fituated  partly  in  the  p»» 
rifh  of  Jedburgh,  and  partly  in  that  of  ^edrule.  Its  eleva^* 
tion  above  the  level  of  the  Tea  is  1024  feet.  The  ridge  of 
hills  on  the  fouth  fide  of  the  parifh  of  Jedburgh,  contiguous 
to  the  Engliih  border,  is  confiderably  higher,  but  arifing  firom 
an  elevated  bafe,  the  elevation  is  not  fo  ftriking.  The  tops  of 
f  hefe  hills  are  in  general  conical,  and  thofe  who  are  attached 
to  fuch  ideas,  are  at  no  lofs  to  difcover  a  variety  of  circun^ 
(lances  fayoqrable  to  the  volcanip  fyften^ 

Woodi. — About  fifty  years  ago  the  pari(h  of  Jedburgh  a-* 
)x)unded  with  wood.  A  few  old  oaks,  elms,  beeches,  plains^ 
^d  weeping  willows  ftill  remain.  The  wood,  which  begins 
f  o  rife  fi-om  the  old  (locks  upon  the  banks  of  the  Jed,  together 
^itl^  a  Y^iety  of  new  plantations,  form  a  t)eautiful  and  ro.- 

^antic 


^  Jedburgh.  ^ 

fiefic  on  the  road  from  Jedboir^  to  Nortkumber* 


land. 


Cbfi«r.— Veftigcs  of  artificial  caves  appear  upon  the 
banks  of  the  river  Jed^  particularly  two  large  caves  dug 
oat  of  the  rock  at  Hundalee  and  Linthaughlce.  Their  di- 
menfions  cannot  now  be  afcertained^  being,  from  the  fteep- 
nels  of  the  rock  or  bank,  almoft  inacceflible  \  but  thej  are 
defcribed  by  old  perfons,  who  have  formerly  entered  into 
them  when  the  accefs  was  lefs  difficult,  as  coniifting  of  three 
apartments^  one  on  each  hand  of  the  entrance,  and  a  larger 
one  behind,  which  had  the  appearance  of  a  great  room. 
They  were  probably  ufed  as  hiding  places,  or  ftrong  holds  to 
(hdter  the  inhabitants  in  the  neighbourhood  upon  any  fud* 
den  incmr&on  by  Englifh  invaders. 

Migratory  Birds. — ^The  woodlark,  bulfinch,  and  king's- 
fifher  have  been  frequently  found  on  the  banks  of  the  Jed. 
The  plover,  fieldfare,  and  dotorcl,  abound  in  the  fouth  and  hil- 
ly parts  of  the  parilh.  In  the  winter  of  1788,  during  a  fe. 
vere  fall  of  fnow,  a  golden  crefted  wren  made  its  appearance. 
The  fize  of  it  was  much  fmaller  than  the  common  wren ;  the 
colour  of  the  body  nearly  the  fame;  but  the  head  was  adorn- 
ed with  feathers  of  a  beautiful  orange  colour  and  gold. 

Numhr  of  Hor/iSf  Sheep^  toV.— There  are  414  horfesin  the 
pariih,  and  it  b  believed  above  8000  (heep.  There  are  fome 
black  cattle  and  horfes  bred  for  fale,  but  more  for  private  ufe. 
A  great  number  of  cattle  are  bought  in  the  autumn,  and  fed 
upon  the  foggage  or  after-grafs,  and  upon  turnips.  In  regard 
CO  Iheep  it  may  be  proper  to  obferve^  that  the  value  of  wool, 
in  the  neighbourhood  of  Jedburgh,  has  been  greatly  increaC* 
}n^  fprfevcral  years  paft.    The  white  wool  in  this  parifh  has 

beea 


f  Staiifiical  Account 

been  fold  at  from  i  Ss.  to  20s  per  ftone  for  the  laft  three  yearr, 
and  the  wool  laid  with  tar  at  15s.  i6s.  and  feme  of  it  at  i8s* 
In  the  lower  part  of  the  country,  feme  formers  in  Beaumont- 
Water  fold  their  .wool  laft  feafon  at  L.  i  :  2  ;  o  per  fioae. 
Seven  or  eight  fleeces  generally  go  to  a  ftone. 

Topulatlon.'-^^Thtrt  is  every  reafen  to  believe,  that  the  po- 
pulation of  this  and  of  the  neighbouring  pariflics  has  greatly 
diminiflied  fince  the  commencement  of  the  prefent  century. 
Some  years  after  the  Union,  and  even  when  the  returns  were 
made  to  Dr.  Webfter  about  forty  years  ago,  the  number  of 
inhabitants  in  the  parifh  was  fuppofed  to  be  about  6ooo. 
There  is  no  evidence,  however,  of  any  particular  enuineration 
having  been  made.  At  prefent  they  do  not  exceed  half  that 
number.  The  inhabitants  of  the  town  were  numbered  with 
great  accuracy  about  fifteen  years  ago,  abd  fell  fliort  of  2000. 
The  inhabitants  of  the  country  part  of  the  pariQi  do  not  ex- 
ceed 800 ;  and  there  arc  only  two  or  three  villages  contain- 
ing about  100  fouls.  The  veftiges  of  uninhabited  hou/es  are 
to  be  feen  both  in  the  town  and  in  the  country.  This  de- 
creafe  is  partly  to  be  attributed  to  the  Union  between  the 
two  kingdoms,  by  which  the  trade  of  Jedburgh  was,  in  a  great 
meafure,  ruined,  and  the  population  of  the  town  diminifhed 
of  confequence ;  and  partly  to  the  union  of  farms,  which  ha$ 
depopulated  the  country. 

EffeBsofthe  Union  on  the  Borders. — ^The  Union  of  the  Par- 
liaments of  England  and  Scotland,  has  in  fome  refpedls  pro- 
duced an  cffcft  very  different  from  what  might  have  been 
expcftcd  from  it.  Inftead  of  promoting  the  increafe,  it  has 
contributed  to  the  diminution,  of  the  people  upon  the  Bor- 
ders. Befides,  the  influence  of  various  natural  propenilties, 
which  induced  men  to  flock  to  the  fcene  where  a£llve  talents 

wer^ 


yf  Jedburgh.      '  f 

were  eonftandy  ettiployedi  hoDoor  acquifed^  tod  the  ftrong« 
eft  national  antipathies  gratifiedj  there  were  obvious  confider- 
adons  of  interefty  which  rendered  the  fituation  of  the  Borders 
more  eligible,  after  violence  and  hoftility  were  reprefled,  by 
the  nnidn  of  the  two  Crowns,  and  the  confequcnt  interpoli- 
lion  of  the  legiflature  of  both  kingdoms.  The  inhabitants  of 
the  Borders,  while  the  taxes  and  the  commercial  regulations 
of  the  two  kingdooM  were  different,  enjoyed  the  opportunity 
of  carrying  on  a  very  advantageous  contraband  trade,  without 
danger  to  their  perfons  or  fortunes*  Into  England  they  im* 
ported,  fait,  ikins,  and  malt,  which,  till  the  Union,  paid  no 
duties  in  Scotland ;  and  from  England  they  carried  back 
wool,  which  was  exported  from  the  Frith  of  Forth  to  France, 
with  great  profit*  The  veAiges  of  forty  malt-barns  and 
kilns  are  now  to  be  feen  in  the  town  of  Jedburgh, 
while  at  preient  there  are  only  three  in  actual  occupation  \ 
and  the  corporation  of  ikinncrs  and  glovers,  formerly  the 
moft  weahhy  in  that  town,  have,  Cnce  the  Unioq,  greatly  di- 
mini(hed,  both  in  regard  to  opulence  and  number.  The  pro- 
prittbrs  of  eftates  upon  the  Borders  were  well  aware  of  thft 
detriment  whic^  their  property  would  rufPer  by  the  incorpo« 
rating  Union,  and  in  general  ftrenuouily  oppofed  it }  and  the 
commiffioners  for  parrying  on  that  treaty,  were  fo  fenfible  of 
the  loft  they  would  fuftain,  that  they  agreed  to  appro- 
priate part  of  the  equivalent  money,  as  it  was  called,  to  their 
indemnification  and  benefit  *• 

The  Union  has  alfo  been  the  caufe  of  the- depopulation  of 
the  Border  country,  by  enlarging  the  fphere,  and  facilitating 
the  means  of  emigration.    While  the  two  countries  were  in 

a 

•  See  Defoe's  Hiftory  of  the  Union,  minute  47.  obfervatidn 
47- 


8[  Statj/lual  AccouM 

a  hoftile  fiate^  there  was  neither  inducemeiit  nor  opportimfcy 
to  move  from  the  one  to  the  other.  The  inhahitantt  often 
made  inroads  upon  one  another  i  but  when  the  incurfion  was 
over,  they  returned  to  their  own  homes.  Their  antipathy  and 
reientments  were  a  rampart  which  excluded  aU  ibcjal  Inters 
courfe,  and  mixture  of  inhabitants.  In  this  fituatton^  miicon- 
duft  and  in&my  at  home  were  the  only  motives  to  emigration^ 
and  while  this  was  the  cafe,  the  exchange  of  inhabitants  would 
be  nearly  at  a  par :  But  after  the  Union  of  the  two  Idngdoms, 
and'  the  decline  or  extin^on  of  national  antipathies,  the  hi^ 
lance  arifiing  from  the  interchange  of  inhabitants  would  run 
much  in  favour  of  the  more  wealthy  country.  Artificers 
and  labourers  would  naturally  refort  where  wages  were  -high- 
er, and  all  the  accommodations  tsf  life  were  more  plentiful, 
efpccially  if  this  could  be  effe£tfd  without  the  unpleafing 
idea  of  rdinquifhing  home.  Totals  from  the  Borders  of 
Scotland  into  Northumberland,  was  rather  like  going  into  a* 
nother  parifh  than  into  another  kingdom. 

Union  of  Farms.'-^Tht  monopoly  of  farms,  or  the  conjoin- 
ing a  number  of  fmall  pofieflions  into  one,  has  long  been 
prevalent  in  this  part  of  the  kingdom.  There  are  inftances 
in  this,  and  in  the  neighbouring  pariflies,  of  individuals 
renting  and  farming  lands  formerly  poilefled  by  fix,  eight,  or 
ten  tenants;  and  there  are  inftances,  particularly  .of  iheep 
farmers,  holding  two,  or  three  £u*ms  in  diftant  parts  of 
the  country,  each  of  which  was  formerly  confidered  as  fuffi* 
ciently  large  and  extenfivc  for  one  perfon.  On  the  whole, 
this  has  not  perhaps  contributed  to  make  the  condition  of  d^ 
lower  ranks  of  people  worfe,  nor  to  diminifli  the  population 
of  the  kingdom  at  large,  though  it  certainly  has  had  the  e£> 
fcA  of  reducing  the  number  of  the  inhabitants  In  every  diftriA 
where  fuch  a  junction  has  taken  place. 

Births^ 


Sf  Jedturgb^  .9 

Mirths^  J)eathr%  and  Marriages, — ^The  number  of  births 
within  the  parifli  of  Jedburgh  exceed  90  per  annum.  The 
burials  in  the  parifih  church  amount,  at  an  average  of  three 
yearsy  only  to  49 ;  but  then,  (ome  famlijesi  in  the  country 
part  of  the  parKh,  continue  to  bt^ry  in  an  old  chapel  ground, 
fiye  miles  fouth  of  Jedburgh,  and  feveral  in  the  church* 
yards  of  O^nam  and  Southdean  \  fo  that  no  certain  conclu* 
fion  can  be  formed  upon  this  article.  The  number  of  mar- 
riages, at  an  average  for  the  laft  three  years,  amounts  only  to 
%i  \  but  it  muft  be  obferved,  that  there  are  many  irregular 
marriages  in  this  pariih  and  neighbourh(^od. 

Rim  of  the  Parijb  —The  valued  rent  of  the  parHh  is 
L.  23,264 : 6 :  10  Scots;  the  real  rent,  probably,  above  L.  7000 
Sterling.  The  rent  of  the  land  varies.  Sheep  farms  let  from 
3  s.  6  d.  to  5  s.  per  acre.  Some  arable  farms  at  the  rate  of 
I  OS.  i;s.  and  even  20  s.  l»and  in  the  immediate  neigh- 
bourhood of  the  town  of  Jedburgh,  at  from  L.  g.  to  L,  3. 
Houfes,  in  the  town,  from  los.  to  L.  15/rr  annum. 

Number  of  Proprietors^  Tenants^  to"f.— There  are  fixteeo 
greater,  and  a  confiderable  number  (about  a  hundred)  of 
fmaller  proprietors,  called  here  Portloners^  from  their  having 
a  fmall  portion  of  land  belonging  to  them*  Of  the  greater 
proprietors,  eight,  either  occafionally,  or  conflantly,  reiide 
in  the  parifh.  There  are  two  farmers  who  pay  above  L.  300 
per  annum;  three  who  pay  above  L.  200;  about  fourteen 
who  rent  above  L^  100  ;  and  a  number  of  fmaller  tenants. 
There  are  three  phyGcians,  three  furgeons,  and  ten  writers, 
or  attorneys. 

Cn^/.-~ The  principal  crops  In  the  parifli,  are  oats  and 

harlcy.    Of  late  years^  a  confiderable  quantity  of  wheat  i^ 

Vot.  I.  B  fown 


t  o  Statifiical  Account 

fown  in  the  ground  immediately  furrounding  the  totm  of 
Jedburgh,  and  feme  on  Tiviot  Cde ;  but  little  or  none  in  the 
fouth  part  of  the  parifli.  Turnips  and  potatoes  are  a  gene- 
ral crop  alt  over  this  country.  The  culture  of  turnips,  in 
particular,  has  been  much  ftudied,  and  is  greatly  extended  ; 
every  farmer  laying  out  a  great  portion  of  his  land  in 
them.  The  foil  of  this  country  is  believed  to  be  more  fuit- 1 
able  to  the  growth  of  turnips,  than  that  of  any  other  part  of 
Scotland.  Formerly  they  were  accuftomed  to  feed  cattle,  in 
tlic  houre,  with  turnips ;  but  it  is  now  found  more  profitable^ 
and  has  become  more  frequent,  to  let  the  fheep  eat  them  in 
the  fields.  It  may  be  proper  to  obferve,  that,  from  the  ex- 
perience of  fome  of  the  moft  Ikilful  farmers,  calves  and  fheep- 
liogs  may  be  fed,  with  great  profit  and  fafety,  upon  turnips  ; 
and  that  young  beafts  fed  on  turnips  attain  the  fame  fize  and 
value,  at  two  years  old,  that  thry  formerly  did  at  three,  when 
fed  on  graft.  It  was  formerly  a  common  prejudice  in  this 
coimtry,  and  ftill  prevails  in  other  places,  that  turnips  were 
noxious  to  young  animals. 

A  confiderable  quantity  of  peafe,  a  few  beans,  a  great  quan- 
tity of  clover  and  rye-grafs,  are  fown  in  this  parifh ;  but  little 
flax  or  hemp,  excepting  fome  for  private  ufe.  Oats  are  fown 
from  the  beginning  of  March  to  the  end  of  April.  Early 
oats  have  been  much  ufed  of  late,  and  are  found  to  be  a  great 
improvement.  The  barley  is  fown  from  the  middle  of  April 
to  the  end  of  May ;  The  turnips  from  the  beginning  of  June 
to  the  middle  of  July :  The  greater  portion,  I  believe,  in 
drills.  Some  wheat  is  fown  in  September,  but  more  in  Oc- 
tober. The  wheat  is  generally  fown  after  potatoes,  or  fal- 
low }  the  barley,  and  grafs  feeds,  after  turnips ;  oats  upon 
ley,  or  after  fallow,  or  pairing  and  burning.  A  greater  quan- 
tity of  every  ipecies  of  grain,  than  what  is  ncceflary  for  the 

maintenance 


cf  Je^mrgb.  xi 

ice  of  its  inhabitants,  is  railed  within  the  bounds  of 
this  parifh.  There  may,  perhaps,  be  fome  doubt  with  refpeA 
to  wheat ;  but  It  is  certain  that  oats,  and  oat-meal,  are  ex- 
ported in  confiderable  quantities  to  Lothian  and  Tweedale. 

Orchards. — A  great  quantity  of  pears  grow  in  the  gardcny 
or  orchards  of  the  town  of  Jedburgh.  The  trees,  though 
very  old,  are  remarkably  fruitful  \  and  it  is  calculated  that 
the  value  of  the  fruit  amounts^  at  a  medium^  to  about  L.  300 
pfr  annum. 

EccUfiafiical  State  of  the  Par^.^^Thtre  arc  four  clergymen 
in  the  town  of  Jedburgh ;  the  minifter  of  the  Eftabliihed 
Church,  of  the  Relief  congregation,  of  the  Burgher,  and  the 
Antiburgher,  feceders*  Their  reipe£live  examination  rolls  are 
as  follows :  Eftabliihed  Church  8qo  ;  Relief  congregation 
1200  5  Burgher  congregation  600  j  Antiburgher  1 50.  Total 
2750  examinable  perfonsj  that  is,  pcrfons  from  fix  to  fevcn. 
years  old,  and  upwards.  In  order  to  account  for  the  great  pro- 
portion of  diflcnters,  it  muft  be  obfcrved,  that  the  fcdt  called 
the  Relief  Congregation  had  its  origin  in  Jedburgh.  In  the 
year  1755,  the  council,  and  the  generality  of  the  inhabitants 
of  the  town,  applied  for  a  prefentation  to  Mr£ofton,  mijii- 
fter  of  Oxnam,  and  being  difappointed  in  that  application, 
built  a  large  meeting-houfe,  by  contribution,  and  invited  Mr 
Bofton  to  be  their  minifter ;  feveral  ojf  the  moft  fubftaotial 
members  of  the  congregation  binding  themfelves  to  pay  him 
h.  i%o  per  annum*  He  accepted  of  their  call ;  and  prevailed 
upon  Mr  Gillefpie,  who  had  been  depofed  for  difobedienc^ 
to  the  orders  of  the  General  AflemWy,  to  join  him,  under 
the  denomination  of  the  Prefl)ytery  of  Relief;  profcffing  to 
diiier  from  the  Eftablifhed  Church  upon  no  other  point,  than 
the  right  of  patrons  to  appoint  minifters  againft  the  inclina- 
'  tions 


12  Statljilcal  AccotM 

tioDs  of  the  people.  This  feA,  more  accommodating  to  tht 
Ipirit  of  the  timeS|  have  qukkly  fpreald  over  bcothhd,  and^ 
probably,  comprehend  the  greateft  part  6f  the  Scotch 
.  diflenters.  Near  a  half  of  all  the  femilies  in  the  parifli  of 
Jedburgh,  and  a  great  proportion  of  the  families  in  all  the 
lurroundlng  parifhes,  are  members  of  this  congregation. 
There  are  not  more  than  five  or  fix  who  profefi  the  Epifco- 
pal  religion,  and  there  are  no  Catholics,  in  the  pariflr^ 

The  prefent  incumbent.  Dr.  Thomas  Somerville,  was  ad« 
raitted  minifter  of  Jedburgh  in  1773.  His  predeceflTors  were 
Meflrs  Semplc,  M«Kay,  Rnct,  Wincheftcr,  Douglas,  and 
M<Knight,  which  laft  he  fucceeded  in  the  charge.  He  has  been 
married  twenty  years,  and  has  two  Tons  and  four  daughters. 
The  King  is  patron  of  the  parifb.  The  living  confiflsof  169 
bolls,  half  oat-meal  and  half  barley,  Linlithgow  meafure; 
L.  44  in  money,  a  manfe,  and  a  glebe  of  feven  Eoglifh  acres, 
in  all  amounting  to  about  L.  1^0  per  annum  in  value.  A  part 
of  the  old  Abbey  Church  is  ftill  ufed  as  the  place  of  wor« 
ihip.  The  manfe  was  built  about  60  years  ago,  and  has  of« 
ten  been  repaired  at  a  great  expence. 

'State  of  the  Poor, — The  number  of  poor  upon  the  couiitrjr 
roll  of  the  parifh  amounts  to  55,  and  of  tho(e  in  the  town 
roll  to  37.  They  are  maintained  by  aflefilnents.  For  fup« 
porting  the  county  poor,  a  tax  is  laid  upon  the  different  pro- 
prietors of  land,  in  proportion  to  the  valued  rents.  The 
common  method  of  proceeding  in  this  bufinefs  is  as  follows  : 
The  minlfier  intimates  from  the  pulpit,  that  on  foch  a  day  a 
meeting  of  the  heritors  and  elders  is  to  be  held,  for  the  pur« 
pofe  of  making  a  provifion  for  the  maintenance  of  the  poor 
for  the  enfuing  quarter.  Thefe  meetings  generaUy  take  place 
near  the  term  of  Candlemas,  Whitfunday,  Lammas^  and 

Martinmas. 


Ifaitltiinaf.  Upon  the  day  of  meeting  the  heritors  eleA  ^ 
prefet,  after  which  the  minutes  of  the  former  fedenint,  and 
the  roll  of  the  poor  are  read  by  the  clerk.  Forming  a  cal- 
culation from  the  number  already  ftanding  upon  the  roll,  and 
the  applications  made  to  th^m,  the, heritors  aflefs  themfelves 
in  a  certain  fum  to  be  colle£led  from  them  feverallyj  accor. 
ding  to  the  proportion  of  their  valued  rents.  The  proprie- 
tor pays  one  half  of  the  aileflment,  and  the  tenant  the  other. 
Though  the  tenants  are  not  mentioned  in  the  (ummons,  yet 
inch  of  them  as  chuie  to  attend  are  made  wckome,  and  their 
advice  and  information  lifiened  to  by  the  meeting.  The 
film  aflefled  is  raifed  by  the  heritors  and  kirk-feflion  to- 
gether, in  luch  proportions  as  feem  adequate  to  the  nece^ 
ties  of  the  poor.  Such  perfons  as  are  reduced  to  the  nccelli- 
ty  of  appljring  to  the  heritors  for  charity,  from  any  acciden- 
tal tranfient  caufe,  fuch  as  difeafe  or  misfortune^  receive  what 
is  called  an  interim  fupply^  i.  e.  a  certain  fum  for  that  .quarter 
only :  The  aged  and  infirm,  and  fuch  as  are  likely  to  continue 
mider  the  lame  neceffity  of  depending  upon  public  chari- 
ty, are  taken  upon  the  poors  roll  at  a  certain  weekly  allow- 
ance. The  perfons  taken  upon  the  roll  are  obliged  to  fub- 
icribe  a  bond  or  deed  of  conveyance,  making  over  and  be- 
queathing all  their  tSt&s  to  the  heritors ;  and  though  the 
heritors  leldom  ezaA  their  eflFeAs,  yet  the  fubfcription  of  the 
bond  ferves  as  a  check  to  prevent  perfons,  who  may  be  poi^ 
iefled  of  concealed  property,  from  alienating  the  public  cha- 
rity. The  fum  aflefled  is  levied  by  a  collcftor,  appointed  by 
the  heritors,  and  diftributed  by  him  to  the  perfons  admitted 
tjpon  the  roll,  according  to  the  proportions  allotted  to  them. 
This  mode  of  providing  for  the  parochial  poor  was  adopted 
in  the  parifli  of  Jedburgh  anm  1 742,  when  the  number  of 
the  poor  increafing,  from  the  fcarcity  and  high  price  of  pro* 
Yifioni,  the  heritors  and  kirk*feflion  were  obliged  to  have  re* 

courfe 


14  SiatyKad  Acema 

courfe  to  the  1^1  method  of  obtabing  th»  cOBtribntiooi  of 
ahlent  proprietors.  Thefe  monthly  afleffinents  have  varied 
firom  two  IhilUngs  to  three  {hiUings  and  Cx^pence^  quarter^ 
on  each  hundred  pounds  of  valued  rent.  The  afiefinient  for 
die  laft  twelve  months  was  at  the  rate  of  three  ihiUings^fr 
quarter,  bpt  did  not  produce  the  fum  required,  viz,  JL  37 : 8 : 8 
fer  quarter.  The  deficiency  is  made  up  from  the  weekly  col- 
leAions, 

The  poor  belonging  to  the  borough  of  Jedburgh,  are  pro- 
vided for  by  a  plan  in  fome  refpeds.  fimilar  to,  but  ia 
others  materially  diflferent  from,  that  above  defcribed.  The 
magiilriites  hold  quarterly  meetings,  in  which  they  aflefs  the 
borough  for  the  maintenance  of  their  poor,  and  portion  the 
fums  in  the  fame  manner  as  the  heritors  do ;  but  the  aflefl^ 
ment  is  not  proportioned  to  the  value  of  the  property  of  in- 
divlduals  within  the  royalty ;  but  according  to  a  valuation  of 
the  property  of  the  burgeiies  and  inhabitants,  eftimated  bj 
fwom  afTcfTors  appointed  by  the  magtArates.  The  afiefTors^ 
in  forming  their  calculation,  and  fixing  the  portion  of  aflefl^ 
ment  to  which  each  individual  is  liable,  have  refpeft  not  only 
to  oftenilble  (H^operty^  but  to  the  profits  of  trade,  and  other 
fuppofed  advantages.  It  is  obvious  that  fuch  a  vague  and  ar- 
bitrary mode  of  calculation,  is  extremely  liable  to  partiality 
and  error. 

The  fums  appropriated  for  the  maintenance  of  each  indi- 
vidual vary,  according  to  the  circumfiances  of  the  claimant. 
To  fingle  perfons  who  can  do  no  work,  a  fliilling,  one  fhiU 
ling  and  fix-pence,  one  fhilling  and  eight-pence  is  allowed 
weekly.  Six- pence,  eight- pence,  tcn-pcnce  to  thofe  who  arc 
infirm  and  receive  fmall  wages.  Eight,  ten",  twelve,  and 
fometimes  twenty  fhillings  per  quarter  hxvc  been  allowed  for 

interim 


mteim  fupply-  There  are  l^w  infiances  of  any  fanuly  rc- 
cd^itig  above  two  ihUliogs*  or  two  (hillings  and  fix-pence /i^r 
wtek.  Theie  proportions. refer  to  the  poor  belonging  to  the 
conntrj  part  of  the  pari(h  %  but  the  allowance  given  to  the 
poor  of  the  town  »  more  fcanty  and  inadequate. 

Befides  the  afleflbents  above-mentioned|  the  town  of  Jed- 
burgh holds  the  principal  fum  of  L.  422  upon  bond  to  the 
£E£5on,  arifing  from  the  accumulation  of  various  legacies,  the 
intereft  of  which  is  annually  diftributed  according  to  the  de& 
tination  of  the  donors :  Some  of  it  for  educating  poor  chil« 
dreuj  fome  fbr  the  relief  of  poor  houfeholdersi  fbme  appro- 
priated to  the'pobr  within  the  town»  and  fome  to  the  poor 
of  the  town  and  country  equally.  A  great  portion  of  thefe 
charities  arifes  from  legacies  of  the  Lady  Yefteri  who  was 
the  daughter  of  Kerr  of  Faimyherft  in  this  parifli,  and  ee-' 
lefarated  for  her  charity.  A  bridewell  or  correftion-houfe 
has  been  lately  ercAed  in  the  town,  at  the  ex  pence  of  the  he- 
ritors of  the  county  at  large,  and  has  been  found  very  ufefiil 
hi  overawing  vagrants,  punifhing  fmaller  offences,  and,  par- 
ticularly, for  the  accommodation  of  perfons  difordered  in 
mind,  who  are  maintained  there  at  the  ezpence  of  the  pa« 
riflies  to  which  they  belong* 

Language. — The  common  people  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
Jedburgh  pronounce  many  words,  particularly  fuch  as  end  in 
a  guttural  found,  with  a  remarkable  broad,  and  even  harfli 
accent.  They  ftiU  make  ufe  of  the  old  Scotch  dialeft*  Many 
of  the  names  of  places,  however,  are  evidently  derived  from 
the  Erie,  and  expreffive  of  their  local  fituation  in  that  lan« 
gus^e.  For  inftance^-^Dunian,  Johtfs  ifi//;— Minto,  Kid^s 
HUli — Hawick,  Village  on  a  River  i^^knzvMmy  anciently  calU 
cd  Alnicromby  a  Crmk  in  the  Rivers  &c.  &c* 

Manners 


J  6  IStatyiUal  Accma  / 

Manners  and  Morals  ofthi  People,— ^That  U  ntker  a  want 
!»r  induftry  in  the  town  of  Jedborgh,  owing  to  the  deftruc* 
tive  inflaence  of  borough  politics ;  but  to  this  rule  there  are 
manj  exceptions  i  and  the  common  labourers  in  the  country 
are  remarkable  for  the  quantity  of  work  which  they  perform. 
In  general)  it  may  be  obfervedi  that  all  ranks  of  people  live 
more  foberly,  and  arelefs  addiAed  to  drinking,  than  they 
were  fome  years  ago ;  and  that  peribns  in  a  better  fituation 
are  charitably  difpofcd,  and  were  particularly  liberal  in  their 
contributions  for  the  relief  of  the  poor,  after  the  unfortunate 
feafon  of  1782.  Crimes  are  becoming  every  day  more  rare* 
Only  one  inftance  of  fuicide  has  occurred  lot  thcfc  17  years 
paft ;  and  no  inhabitant  of  the  parifti  has  been  bani(hed  for 
thefe  many  years.  Five  have,  fuffered  capital  punifhments  \ 
but  not  one  of  them  for  murder.  It  is,  indeed,  one  of  the 
mod  (biking  evidences  of  the  progrefs  of  civilization,  and  one 
of  the  moft  pleadng  cfieAs  of  a  regular  government,  that  in  a 
country,  formerly  the  fcene  of  depredating  violence,  fewer 
jnftances  of  crimes,  or  of  puni(hments,  have  occurred  during 
the  laft  50  years,  than  perhaps  in  any  other  diftri£l  of  equal 
extent  in  the  kingdom. 

Advantages  and  Dif advantages. — ^The  principal  difad vantage 
under  which  this  pari(h  labours,  is  its  great  diftance  from 
coal,  which  is  found  to  be  the  cheapeft  fewel,  though  there 
are  feveral  large  peat  moifes  in  many  parts  of  the  neighbour* 
hood.  The  neareft  coal  to  Jedburgh  is  at  Ryechefter,  diftant 
about  20  miles,  on  the  Englilh  border..  Some  Lothian  coal 
is  brought  by  the  carts  which  carry  grain  to  the  Dalkeith 
market,  and  is  fold  at  nearly  the  fame  price  with  the  Englifli. 
The  county,  in  general,  and  the  neighbourhood  of  Jedburgh 
in  particular,  is  likely  to  derive  great  advantage  from  the  ii^j- 
prpvement  and  extenfion  of  roads,  which  does  great  honour 

to 


!•  the  aCBvity  mi  public  fi»rit  of  the  gentlemen  who  have 
promoted  them.  There,  is  a  tiirnpil^  umd  now  carried  firon^ 
Jedbiirgli  to  Newcaftle^  which  ihortens  the  diftance  from 
thence  to  Ec^bu^h  cpn/ider^bljr  i  9nd  there  i$  at  peefent  a 
profpeft  of  carrying  one,  in  a  diredk  line,  from  Jedburgh  to 
BoroughbridgjB  V?  Tor|:i}iiiei  wl^ch  cpold  n9t  fail  of  being 
frequented,  as  it  Would  render  the  road  between  London  and 
£dinborah  nearer  by  38  miles  than  by  Serwtde. 


▼ot.I,  C  NUMi 


If  Sti^lHeol'Jixntni 

■    ■      IJ  tfMB  ER     IL  ' 

rAlilSH  QF  HOLT-WOOD, 
■'-•■IV  DUMFRIES-SHIRE. 

'  1    I    »  ♦  .  -  ■'.  i  /.  . 

From  Materials  furn!/bfd  tyiSf  Rev.  Ihr.  B&TCB  }oBMSTORj 
Mtnifter  of  that  Parijb. 


Origin  o/tBe*Name. 

HOltwood  is  evidently  derived  from  the  holy  woody 
or  grove  of  oak  trees,  which  furrottxided  a  Uurge  Dnii- 
dical  templei  ftill  ftanding,  within  half  a  mile  of  the  parifh 
church.  It  is  formed  of  twelve  very  large  whin  or  moor 
ftones,  as  they  are  c<lled|  which  inclofe  a  circolar  piece  of 
ground  of  about  eighty  yards  in  diameter«  The  oaks  have 
now  all  periflied  i  but  there  is  a  tradition  of  their  esufting  in 
the  laft  age.  Many  of  their  roots  have  been  dug  out  of  the 
ground  by  the  prefent  minifter}  and  he  has  fiill  one  of  thenci 
in  his  pofleffion. 

Situatiofit  Extent^  and  Surface. — ^The  parifh  lies  in  the  divifion 
of  the  county  of  Dumfries  called  Nithfdale,  in  the  Freibytery 
and  Synod  of  Dumfries.  It  is  about  ten  EnglHh  miles  long^ 
and  one  and  an  half  broad,  on  an  average.  It  is  bounded  by 
the  parifh  of  Dumfries  on  the  eaft ;  by  Terregles^  Elirkpatrick- 
Irongray,  and  Kirkpatrick-Durham^  on  the  fouth ;  by  a  {mail 
part  of  Glencaim,  and  by  a  large  track  of  Dunfcore,  on  the 
weft  and  north ;  and  by  Kirkmahoe  on  the  north-eaft.    Be^ 

ing 


iDgfitoaMd.iaAcliniddleofLi^bfD^  Tallcy,  it  is  In  general 
fiat  and  lowland*  The  hilir  iir  ther.jparifli  .aremcither  l&igb 
norrockf«  .  ,  .. 

jRfimr.--^The  mer  Nkh  runa^along  the  whole  of  the  eaft  end 
of  the  pariih»  iHterfeAing  it»  however*  in  one  place,  for  above 
a  mHe  in  length*  The  mer  XSluden^  alio  a  confiderable  one^ 
nnu  along  the  fouth  fide  of  the  pariih  above  eight  miles,  and 
interieAs  it  in  three  placesj  emptying  itfdf  into  the  Nith  in 
the  foath^aft  corner  of  the  parifli,  near  the  old  CoUege  or 
Flrovoftry  of,  lanclnden,  whifih  ftands  on  the  Galloway  fide 
of  the  riverj  in  the  parUh.of  rTerregkK 

Fyb. — ^The  Guden  abounds  in  fii>e  burn  troutSi  a  few  pike 
of  a  middle  fize^  aad  of  excellent  quality,  foii\e  falqftgn,  fome 
iea  trout}  and  herlings  "*.  The  .Nith  produces  the  fame  kifids 
of  fiihi  but  with  this  difference,  that  the  herlings,  fea  trouti 
and  falmon,  are  much  more  plentiful  in  it  than  in  the  Clu- 
den.  One  peculiarity  deferves  particular  notice;:  Though  the 
two  rivers  join  at  the  fouth*eaft  comer  of  the  parifli,  each 
has  its  own  diftinft  fpecies  of  falmon.  The  Chiden  fahnon 
arc  confiderably  thicker  and  (hortcr  in  their  body,  and  great* 
ly  ihorter  in  their  head,  than  thofe  of  the  ^lith*  The  burn 
trouts  abound  in  the  fpring  and  fummer  5  the  herlings  and 
lea  tront  in  July  and  Auguft  5  and  the*  falmon  from  the  he** 
ginning  of  March  to  the  beginning  of  October.  The  falmoa 
is  in  the  greateft  perfection  in  June  and  July*  Lathe  ipring 
it  iells  for  about  on^  {hilling  a  pound  of  16  ounces,  and  gra« 

dualfy 


•  Herlings  arc  a  fmall  kind  of  trout,  a  little  fargtr  tlian  a 
herring*  and  fiiaped  like  a  falmon;  its  fleihJs  reddiih»  like  that 
of  the  falmon  or  fea  trout,  but  confiderably  paler.  They  abound 
in  all  the  rivers  in  this  part  of  the  coontry,-and  have  the'nbrrtc 
of  herling  in  all  the  adjoining  parifhes,* 


t%  Std^tiau  A^ctfuni 


cisaHy  decreafes  in  pric^^  as  the  feafon  sbifauett.  ta  a(d.  i 
pound.  It  is  all  (old  in  the  town  of  Dmnfriciy  nld  to  ttt 
fimilies  in  the  adjacent  country.  Oumfries  being  £b  near^ 
and  many  of  the  fifliermen  living  in  the  town,  the  price  ia 
that  market,  and  on  the  fpot  where  it  is  pingbt  in  thii^pari(h« 
is  always  the  fame.  The  prices  of  the  other  kinds  of  fifli  are 
always  a  little  )ower  than  that  of  falmon ;  and  tbfy  rift  and 
lall  with  it.  About  ten  years  ago,'  the  pric^  of  fifti  in  this 
country  was  fcarccly  half  pf  what  it  is  at  preient.  The  in« 
creafdd  price  is  perhaps  owing,  in  part,  to  the  increafed  coiii* 
fomption,  and  luxury  of  the  inhabitants,  but  prineipsdly  to 
the  great  demand  for  this  fi(h,  to  fupply  the  rkh'  and  poiptf^ 
lous  manufacturing  towns  in  Lancaihire  \  Car,  within  thefe 
laft  ten  years,  very  confiderabie  quantities  of  fireih  falmon 
have  been  fent,  by  land  carriage,  into  that  country,  from  xht 
Solway  Frith,  and  the  moutM  of  all  the  rivers  that  run  intd 
iu 

Smt.-^Tht  iUl  of  this  parifli  is  of  four  different  kinds*  viaK 
a  coniiderable  tra£t  of  land,  about  a  fourth  part  of  the  parifli^ 
in  the  eaft,  along  the  river  Nith,  and,  on  the  feuth,  for  about 
feven  miles  up  the  river  Cluden,  is  a  deep  rich  light  loam,  and 
free  from  ftones:  ai/.  Another  fourth  part,  contiguous  to  the 
former,  is  a  light  dry  fertile  foil,  lyii^g  on  a  bed  of  fandy  gra- 
vel,  producing  heavy  crops  of  corn  and  grafi  in  a  fhowery 
feafon;  but  it  i%  greatly  parched  up  in  dry  (eafbns  :  31/,  An* 
other  fourth  part,  which  joins  this  laft,  is  a  deep  ftrong  loam, 
Interrperfcd  with  ftobes,  upon  a  tilly  bed  \  it  is  naturally  wet, 
^iff  to  plough,  and  not  fo  fertile  is  either  of  the  two  former; 
but,  when  drained,  limed,  and  properly  wrought,  more  pro- 
ductive both  of  corn  and  grafs  than  either  of  them,  in 
all  varieties  of  feafon,  excepting  oniy  a  cold  and  wet  fnmmer. 
4ifA,  The  remainbg  part,  which  is  hUly,  is  iba;tcwhat  £milai7 

t^ 


to  tBe  liflry  bfily  not  fa  dec^  and'  wef  i-  It  prbdadei  a  ftmS  of 
grt&i  neither  fcry  toe  oor  verj  coibrfe,  vkich^  in  feqie  of 
the  htghdr  parte  of  tho  h31f^  is  mixed'wkh  helth,  and  a  kw 
mMBBt  nara  wccos^ 

jUr,  CUmaiif  {9V<-^The  ailr  is  drf^  ^d  remarkably  who]e« 
fiune*  The  fingular  heal&ioeia  of  the  inhabitants  may,  how^ 
eteTf  be  attributed  to  the  following  caufes*  They  do  hot 
live  in  townst  or  even  villages  i  they  are  not  employed  in  fe* 
deatary  occupations  |  being  either  country  gentlemen  ot  far- 
mers, chef  live  in  houfes  detached  from  each  other  i  they  aro 
engaged  in  aftive  employments  in  the  opeh  air  i  they  are  'm* 
diiftrioiis,  fober^  and  chearful*  The  drynefs  of  the  air  is 
^wittg  to  the  peculiar  local  fituation  of  the  parifh.  The 
clouds^  intercepted  by  the  hills  on  every  fide,  float  in  fogs  on 
the  top  of  themi  while  the  inhabitapts  enjoy  a  clear  afid  dry 
air  in  the  valley^  At  other  timesj  when  the  clouds  break  in* 
to  rain  on  the  hills,  the  greateft  part  of  it  falls  on  the  hills, 
#r  the  fides  of  the  valley,  while  the  fkirts  of  the  ihowers  oAly 
reach  its  oencral  parts.  Add  to  tfaefe  circumftances,  that  the 
|wo  rapid  rivers  carry  off  the  fuperfluous  water  from  the  land, 
9nd  the  moifture  from  the  air* 

SeeJLtime  and  Harvefl.'^ht  tioie  pf  fowing  wheat  is  from 
the  middle  of  September  to  the  middle  of  OAober;  oats, 
peafe,  beans,  hemp,  and  flax,  from  the  loth  of  March  to  the 
middle  of  April  \  poratres  and  barley  from  the  middle  of 
April  to  the  loth  of  May  ;  and  turnips  from  the  loth  to  the 
74th  cf  June.  The  harveft  generally  begins  about,  or  before, 
the  mkldle  of  Auguft  -,  and  the  crop  is  got  totally  into  the 
bams,  and  barn- yards,  by  the  end  of  September.  In  cold 
and  wet  feafons,  like  the  h^,  it  is,  however,  fomowhat  later. 

MfidemUAl 


n  StaS/Heat  Mcetmi 

EfUnrnad  Difiafei^-^Ka  local  diffempers,  orfickpefioF  anf 
kind,  are  prevalent  in  the  parifli.  In  the  months- of  Febra- 
ary  and  March,  indeed,  fome  fevers  appear  among  the  people 
of  low  circumihinces^  efpecialiy  in  that  diftriA  of  the  parifli 
which  lies  in  the  narroweft  part  of  the  valley ;  but  thele  feem 
diiefly  owing  to  poor  living,  and  bad  accommodation,  during 
the  winter  feafon,  and  perhaps  to  the  dampnefs  of  the  pre- 
ceding months. 

ManufaBures — It  was  before  mentioned,  that  there  are 
neither  t(#wns  nor  villages  in  the  p^rlOi,  but  that  the  inhabit 
tants  live  in  detached  houfes ;  manufactures,  therefore,  can- 
not well  cxift  in  this  diftrid.  The  deamcls  of  fuel  is  an- 
ethei  obftacle :  Peats  are  bad,  fcarce,  and  confequently  dfar  i 
and  coals  are  either  carted  24  miles  land  carriage,  or  brought 
from  Ergland  by  water.  Thefe  laft  would  be  moderately 
cheap,  were  it  not  for  the  high  duties  laid  on  them,  which 
are  as  fatal  to  the  improvement  of  this,  as  they  are  to  many 
other  parts  of  Scotland  \  nor  can  this  part  of  the  country 
ever  greatly  improve,  until  thefe  duties  be  aboliflied. 

Population. — On  the  laft  day  of  the  year  1790,  there  were 
living  in  the  parifli  of  Holywood  736  perfons,  of  whom  there 
were, 

Under  ten  years  of  age,  -            -          166 

Between  ten  and  twenty,  *             -         146 

Above  twenty  unmarried,  -                -         160 

Widowers  or  widows,        -  -            *       40 

Married,            -            -  -            •224 

73<S 
Out 


Oot  of  the  736  perlbns,  1 1  were  between  80  and  90  years 
old,  which  is  an  uncommon  number  among  fb  few  inhabi* 
tants.  The  return  to  Dr.  Webfter  of  the  population  of  Ho^ 
lywoody  about  forty  years  ago,  was  612  fouls ;  the  inhabitants 
have  therefore  Increafed  124  fince  that  period. 


AkflraS  of  the  Bapttfms^  Marriages^  and  Burials^  for  the  la/t 
ten  Tears, 

Years.  Baptifms.  Marriages.  Burials. 


I78I 

— 

23 

•— 

7 

— 

IQ 

1782 

— 

18 

— 

0 

— 

20 

'783 

— 

15 

— 

3 

— 

8 

1784 

— 

H 

— 

I 

— 

II 

1785 

— , 

»3 

— 

4 

' — 

8 

1786 

— 

x6 

— 

6 

— 

14 

1787 

— 

16 

— 

6 

— 

11 

1788  • 

— 

14 

— 

9 

— 

8 

1789 

— 

n 

— 

6 

— 

8 

1790 

^9 
162 

6 
48 

10 

108 

Tearly  average 

— 

nearly. 

16 

5    * 

11 

The  great  number  of  deaths  in  17821  was  owing  to  an  in« 
feftious  fever  in  the. weft  part  of  the  pariihi  where  the  val- 
ley is  narroweft;  and  the  large  number  in  1786,  was  owing 
to  the  ravages  of  the  natural  finall-poz. 

JXwfion  of  thi  JnhaUtantSj  and  their  Occupations. — All  the 
inhabitants  are  fannerS|  and  cottagers  employed  by  them,  ex- 

cepr 


cept  tlioft  aftecwmJi  mestioiied.  About  leu  of  the.  idbabl- 
tants  are  fmall  proprietors  of  landiy  mhidi  ihcy  occnpj  theoir 
icfattcs.  There  are  eight  veaver^t  %WP  blwcbess^  two  (hf^e- 
niskts$t  wo  miners*  five  idacfcfinithsj  6r9p  mafoog,  fpor  i^« 
lors,  and  eight  joloers  (  all  fif  whom  tsfi  .eipploTed  In  wor)4i|g 
for  the  inhabitants  of  the  pari(h>  and  not  m  manafadhiring 
articles  Tor  fale.  There  are  no  houiehold  fenrants  except  in 
•^entlemcns  ftmilies,  and  thefe  ane  few.  There  ai)e  abojtit 
ihirty-two  male,  and  thirty-fix  female  labourbg  ferrants. 
The  greateft  part  of  the  Arming  and  dairy  work  b  done  by 
the  farmers  themielTes,  their  wives,  their  ioos  and  daiJi^tuers, 
and  cottagers,  which  laft  work  either  by  the  piece,  or  by  the 
year,  receiving  what  b  called  a  benefit  t  that  is,  ahouie, 
yar4»  peats,  52  ftones  of  mealj  a  quantity  of  potatoes,  and  as 
muc^  money  as,  with  thefe  articles,  would;  ccmmunibus  awisp 
amqunt  to  thirteen  pounds  Sterling  per  annum,  Befide  the 
above  mentioned  fervants,  ibme  (hearers  are  hh-ed  by  the  day 
from  the  adjacent  moor  countries.  It  is  remarkable  that  all  the 
inhabitants  are  natives  of  this  ifland,  except  one  perfongOnly, 
who  comes  from  Ireland.  There  are  xy>  nobility  reiident  in 
ijx  the  parilh,  and  the  gentry  amount  only  to  twenty-ieven 
perfonsj  befidcs  their  domeftics.  All  the  inhabitants  are  of 
the  £(3babli(hed  Church,  except  fix  Camerooians,  nine  Burgher 
Secedecs,  two  of  the  Church  of  England,  and  three  Catho- 
lics I  jbut  mod  of  all  thefe  denominations  attend  the  parifli 
church  occafionally,  except  the  Catholics. 

General  CbaraSer.'^^Hhtj  are  a  fober,  regular,  and  ioduf' 
^frious  people,  all  employed  in  farming,  except  the-few  above 
mentioned.  They  ace  generous  and  humane,  although  they 
have  not  been  called  to  the  exertions  of  thefe  qualities  by  any 
jpemarkable  events,  except  in  the  years  1782  and  178J,  as 
41uU  be  mentioned  afterwards.  They  e^joy,  in  a  reafonabte 
•  degree. 


rf  Holfwood.  ^  25 

4ifftty  tlie  conycniencies  and  comforts  of  fpciety^^and  are  in 
general  as  contented  with  their  fituation  as  moft  people.  Their 
condition^  howeverj  might  be  meliorated,  could  the  he&vy  mul- 
tures be  remoyedj  which  hinder  improvements  in  agriculture ;. 
or  coold  coals  be  imported  doty  free,  which  checks  any  at- 
tempts  to  the  edtabliihing  manufaAures,  With  refpeA  to  the 
oxMrals  of  the  people,  it  may  be  obferved,  that  during  the  time 
^f  the  prelent  incumbent,  which  is  19  years,  only  one  perfon 
bas  been  baniihed  for  theft,  and  one  enliAed  for  a  foldier :. 
This  laftj  in  a  fiew  months,  folicitcd  his  friends  to  make 
application  to  get  him  out  of  the  army,  whijch  they  did  with 
fuccels,  and  he  has  ever  fince  lived  in  the  parifli  an  induftri* 
ous  labouring  man*  In  regard  to  other  particulars,  they  arc 
healthy,  robuft,  and  rather  above  the  common  feature.  .  Se- 
veral inftanccs  of  longevity  have  been  obferved  among 
them*  Within  thefe  few  years,  three  perfons  have  died, 
whoie  ages  were  po,  95,  and  ^6. 

Church. — ^The  value  of  the  living,  including  the  glebe,  Is 
about  L,iao  Sterling.  The  laft  patron  was  Robert  Be- 
Tcridge  of  Fourmerkland,  Efq;  the  proprietor  of  an  eftate 
of  that  name  in  the  parifli.  He  died  lately,  and  by  his 
death  the  patronage  devolved  to  his  fillers,  the  eldefl  of 
whom  is  married  to  the  Rev.  Mr  James  McMillan  miniftcr 
of  Torthorwald. 

The  manfe  •  and  offices  were  all  new  built  in  1773 ;  the 
church  in  1779  (  and  the  two  fchool  houfes  in  1782,311 
which  bnildiogB  are  now  in  excellent  repair. 

•  The  parlbnage  houfe,  thus  called  all  over  Scotland,  is  evi- 
dently derived,  as  manfion  is,  from  the  Latin  viatico^  to  remain 
or  abide. 

Vot,I.  D  5i^t 


\ 


s6  StatiJHeid  Atccml 

Siaie  ef  ibi  Pwr— The  average  number  of  pooTKAanwr' 
receive  alms  is  fifteen.  The  annual  fom  expended  for  theii^ 
relief  is  about  L.  32  Sterling,  produced  by*  tlie  coUdEHons  in 
the  church  on  Sundap,  excepting  the  intereft  of  a  fihall  Xtm 
appropriated  to  them.  Thefe  fifteen  perfons  are  alt  mun- 
tained  in  their  own  houies,  or  boarded  in  other  families } 
none  of  them  are  kept  in  hofpitals  or  work-hoofdi.  The 
grcateft  number  of  them  earn  about  two-thirds  of  theii' 
maintenance.  Thofe  who  are  orphans  under  ten  yean 
oldy  or  who  are  very  old  and  infirm,  and '  without  re* 
lations  to  a0ift  them,  are  boarded  opt  at  the  rate  of  L.  4 
Sterling  per  annum.  BeCdes  the  relief  from  the  pariih,  the 
poor  receive  frequent  fupplies  of  food  and  clothes  from  ch** 
ritable  and  well  difpofed  people.  They  are  however  kept 
from  begging  from  door  to  door  moft  efiTeAuaHy,  by  the  a& 
furance  of  their  inevitably  lofing  all  parKh  relief  if  they  per* 
fift  in  the  praAice.  As  the  church  feffion  *  is  extremely  at« 
tentive  to  give  them  relief,  according  to  their  necefiities,  to 
provide  medical  alliftance  for  them  when  fickj  to  pay  the 
fchoolmafter  for  teaching  theu'  children  reading,  writing, 
and  the  common  rules  of  arithmetic,  their  own  intereft  in- 
duces them  to  comply  with  the  defire  of  the  (effion,  not  to 
beg.  Beggars,  however,  occafionally  infieft  the  parilb,  but 
they  do  not  belong  to,  nor  refide  in  it. 

Price  of  Groin  nnd  Prw^iw.— The  price  of  wheat,  barley^ 
and  oits,  ire  generally  regulated  by  the  Liverpool  a|id  Gree- 
Bocl:  markets,  being  juft  as  much  below  the  prices  at  theft 
places,  as  will  pay  freight,  and  afibrd  a  very  moderate  profit 
f  o  the  corn  merchants,  who  export  the  grain  to  one  or  other 

of 

*  The  church  fifion  is  tbe  fame  as  tbe  v^ry  m  the  Englifii 
pari(hc«* 


^  <tli«fe  ptMCi.*    i'or  natty  jrean. pad  the  pttee  of  grain 
ham  been  in  .general  the  iSune  as  inihe  London  market,  wjikh 
.it  always  a  little  below  that  of  Liverpool*    Grain  is  in  ge« 
tnttl  cheaper  here  about    Gandlemasi  the  markets  being 
then  orerAocked  fay  the  gunners  anxiety  to  make  up  their 
.half  year's  vent»  which  is  payable  at  that  term*    Cammuniht4 
mnii^  wheat  Is  $s«  barley  as.  ad.  and  oats  is.  ibd.  the  Win- 
chefter  ba(heL     The  pre^t  average  price  of  beef|  veal^ 
■BttCtoo,  lamby  and  pork  through  the  year  is  3  Jd.  the  pound 
*of  <4  oonces,  fpr  thoie  of  the  beft  qualities.    At  particular 
times  of  she  year  they  are  all  moth  cheapelr ;  and  though 
at  fowt  periods  they  amoont.  to  jd.  a  poond|  thefe  dear 
times  do  wot  laft  long.    The  pfice  of  a  roafting  pig  is  4s. } 
of  a  goofe  as. ;  of  a  turkey  2s.  6d.  1  of  a  dock  lod.  |  of  a 
ken  It.  I  d*  a  chicken  3d.  $  of  rabbkSi  though  thete  are  fe«^ 
of  them,  is.lhe  pair  without  the  ikins^  batter  is  j^.  the  pound 
wf  04  ouKCss  checfe  varies  according  to  its  richnefs  and 
•ge. 

PfM  nf  Jj^imr.^^tbt  wages  of  men  latx>urers  are  is.  ^ 
day  from  the  tft  of  March  to  the  ift  of  Novembert  and  lod* 
the  icft  of  the  year»  except  that  in  time  of  harveft  they  are 
ijd*  I  and  of  mowing*  i8d*  The  wages  of  women  are,  foi^ 
working  at  peafs,  8d, ;  at  turuip  weeding,  hay  makings 
and  other  (arm  work  in  fummer,  fd.  i  ihearing  in  harveft 
t3d.  Both  men  and  women^  fnmi(h  their  own  provilions 
out  of  their  wages.  The  day  wages  of  a  carpenter  and  a  ma-» 
Hon  are  is.  td. )  of  a  bricldayer  and  flater  ds.  $  •  of  a  tay« 

lori 

*  The  wages  ef  thcfe  four  artlfb  were  id.  lefs  before  the  year 
1788  I  at  that  time  an  uncommon  fpirit  for  building  appearing 
in  the  country,  increafed  the  demand  for  labour  of  that  kind. 
This  fpirit  procaeeded  from  the  general  ufte  for  good  houfes»  which 
tnarks  this  period,  and  from  manv  monied  men,  who«  having 
purchafcd  eftates  in  this  part  of  the  country,  are  building  elt- 


aS  Stati/HcaLMccunt 

'  lor,  IS.  witboQty  or  6d.  with  meat.  Work^  litfirar^,  \^9^ 
xierally  done  by  the  piece.  The  average  of  £unn  fervants, 
when  they  eat  in  the  honfe,  is  I«.  7  for  men,  and  L.  3  for 
women ;  but  the  farm  fervants  arc  generally  paid  by  what  is 
called  a  benefit j  before  defcribed }  and  if  the  man's  wife  and 
children  are  em{doyed  by  the  6rmer,  their  work  is  feparately 
paid  for.  The  wages  of  domeftic  fervants  arc  nearly  the 
fame  with  thofe  of  farm  fervants. 

£x fences  of  a  Lahowrn^s  Fanulj.  The  expenc^  of  t  cdm- 
mon  labourer,  when  married,  and  with  four  or  five  children, 
is  about  L.  x6  a  year.  The  wages  which  he  .receives,  tog^ 
thcr  with  the  induftry  of  his  wife,  enable  him  to  live  tole- 
rably comfortable,  and  to  give  his  children  an  education^^o- 
per  for  then*  ftation,  provided  he  and  hisVife  are  fober,  in* 
dufiriouSY  and  feogal :  Thofe  of  them  who  are  embarraflfed 
in  their  circumftances,  owe  their  poverty  other  to  their  owb, 
or  their  wife's  bad  condu£t  That  the  labourers  can  maintain 
their  families  at  this  fmall  czpence,  is  owing  to  the  fermers, 
from  whom  they  have  cottages,  allowing  them  as  much  land 
for  one  yearns  rent  free,  to  plant  potatoes  in,  as  they  can  ma- 
•  nure  fufficicntly  with  aibes,  or  fuch  dung  as  they  can  provide 
for  themfelves ;  and  thefe  potatoes  conititute  at  leaft  one  half 
of  their  year's  food. 

Divi/kn  and  Rent  of  Lands.^^^K  great  part  of  the  parifh  is 
inclofed,  but  a  confiderable  part  ftill  lies  open.  The  farmers 
feem  fufficicntly  convinced  of  the  advantages  of  inclofing, 
and  would  willingly  allow  their  landlords  intereft  for  fuch 
fums  of  money  as  would  be  neceflary  for  makmg  Indofurcs. 

The 


ganAmianfion^houfes  for  themfelves,  and  good  farm-houfcs  f<ar 

ikeir  flinants. 


The  fitfiM  Wi  in  general  firom  L.  40  to'  L.  15^  a  year ;  but 
there  are  fome  few  from  L.  4O9  down  to  as  fmall  as  L.  8. 
About  the  year  177 1  a  fpiritof  improvement  appeared  in 
the  parifbt  when  the  farms  became  larger  than  they  had  for- 
merly been }  bbt  for  fome  years  paft  they  have  continued 
nearly  of  the  fame  fize.  The  beft  arable  land  is  let  from 
L.  I :  I  r  o  to  L.  t  :'fo  :  o ;  and  the  inferior^  firom  20s.  to  7s* 
an  acre.'  The  hill  {>afture  is  not  let  by  the  acre,  btit  by  the 
hnnp.  The  wh(4e  rent  of  the  parMh  amounts  to  fomething 
mort  than  L.  3000  Sterling  per  annum^  including  houfes^ 
and  the  fmall  fifheries  in  the  Nith  and  Cloden.  The  heri- 
tors are  thirty-one  in  number^  of  whom  ten  of  the  fmall 
ones  and  three  of  the  largeft  reiide  in  the  parifh.  There  is 
no  map  of  the  parifh,  the  number  of  acres  in  it  have  not 
confequently  been  precifely  afcertained ;  they  are  eftimated 
at  about  7500.  'Qf  thefe  about  60  are  employed  for  raiiing 
wheat,  250  for  barley,  20  for  peafe  and  beans,  10  for  rye, 
1 3 16  for  oats,  xoo  for  potatoes,  30  for  turnip  and  cabbage^ 
20  for  flax  and  hemp,  500  for  fown  grafi,  the  reft  is  paftu- 
rage,  except  about  150  acres  for  roads  and  plantations.  None 
of  the  ground  is  common ;  and  every  proprietor  knows  the 
exaft  marches  of  his  eftate ;  but  a  confiderable  quantity  of  the 
hilly  part  mnft  always  lie  in  a  ftate  of  pafturage,  not  being 
arable  on  account  of  the  fteepnefs  of  the  hills.  Several 
hundred  acres,  however,  of  the  lower  parts  of  thefe  un- 
broken grounds,  are  capable  of  cultivation,  and,  if  proper* 
ly  improved,  would  pay  well  for  the  labour  beftowed  on 
them.    The  greateft  part  of  the  parifh  is  thirled  *  to  the 

k  mill 

*'  When  the  laird,  /.  e*  lord  of  the  manor,  builds  a  mill,  he 
obliges  his  tenanu  to  have  all  their  corn  ground  at  that  mill 
only.  The  farms  are  then  faid  to  be  thirled,  or  under  thirlage 
to  die  mill.  But  fomctimes,  as  is  the  cafe  here,  the  tenants  of 
one  eftate  are  thirled  to  ^he  mill  of  another,  which,  when  the 
dues  are  high|  is  a  great  bar  to  improvement*  . 


'3S  1SM10U$1  JbmH^ 

nill  of  ClodePi  aadi«7B  a  very  high  mafture  *,  which  gKtflf 
tends  to  retard  the  culthation  and  fanprovemeDt  of  the 
diftrift. 

Moie  of  Cultivatwm. -^Therc  sre  70  phragh*  in  the  parifli* 
Hide  ofed  in  the  £rft  dhifion,  ice  p.  20.  and  thegrcateft  part 
of  the  fccond,  viz.  the  light  foil,  ace.  the  fioall  Ejiglifli 
plough }  ID  part  of  the  ficcond»  and  adjoining  part  of  the  thirds 
they  itfe  t^e  Scots  plough  ^with  the  Engjiiih  moiddoboard^ 
or  plooghs  compoCbd  partly  on  the  model  of  the  old  ^^ot^i 
and  paptly  on  that.of  the  Engfiih  i  and  in  the  remaining  part 
of  the  thirds  the  Scott  plough  only  is  ufed.  Each  of  thefe 
ploughs  fecms  well  adapted  for  the  nature  of  the  foil  in  the 
diftrift  where  they  are  ufed^  The  Engliih  plough  is  cer- 
tainly the  beft,  but  it  can  only  work  properly  in  land  that 
is  firee  from  ftones.  The  Scots  ploughi  when  properly  madCf 
18  doubtlef 8  the  fitteft  for  ftrong  land ;  and,  laftly,  the  plough 
compofcd  of  the  twoj  is  the  moft  proper  for  land  that  is 
compoied  of  the  two  kinds  above  mentioned  1  and  thefe  are 
the  nature  of  the  different  foils  in  which  the  feveral  kinds  of 
ploughs  are  ufed.  The  ploughs  are  commonly  drawn  by  two 
ftrong  borfes,  and  one  man  both  holds  the  plough  and  drives 
the  horfcs,  with  a  pair  of  long  reins.  When  ftiff  land  Is  to 
be  broken  up  from  grafi,  three»  or  fometimes  four  horfes  are 
yoked  into  a  plough  of  the  fame  conflruaiQUj  but  of  a  firoQg- 
er  make. 

Proiucts'^Thc  vegetable  produce  of  this  parifh  has  already 
been  fpecified^  under  the  article,  Divifian  rf  Land.  With  re- 
fpe£t  to  animal  productions,  it  is  principally  diftinguilhed  for  a 
breed  of  black  cattlej  for  which  the  county  of  Dnunfrics  'm 

general 

*  Mulfure  is  a  certain  (Upulated  quantity  of  meal,  given  as 
payment  to  the  miller  for  fl;Tinding  the  com :  And  aU  corn 
grown  on  farms  thirled  to  the  mill  is  obliged  to  pay  multure^ 
whether  the  com  be  ground  at  that  mill  or  clfewhcrc. 


gMenl,  and  the  noghtourfi^  coundes  of  tht  ftetnrby  and ' 
the  county  of  GaUoway  are  alfo  famoas.  Thejr  we  vety  pfofit* 
able  for  fatteoiag,  and  many  thoiifandt  of  them  are  anmiallj 
ibid  and  fent  into  England.  Thejr  are  hilidrome,  of  a  mid« 
die  fixe,  and  veigh  well  for  their  height.  When  fat  for  the 
bntdier,  the  four  quarters  wdgh  at  an  average  36  ftones  of  16 
pounds  I  but  feveral  of  them  amount  to  66  or  70  ftbnes.  The 
number  of  Uack  cattle  in  the  whole  pariih  amounts  to  about 
jaoo.  The  iheep,  which  are  Icept  in  the  hilly  part  of  the 
parifliy  are  the  common  Scots  fheep,  white  on  the  body,  but 
Uack  on  the  face  and  legs  $  they  are  very  hardy  and  their 
wool  is  llrong  and  fhaggy,  but  coarfe*  In  the  low  cultivated 
diftrifts  there  are  two  Icinds  of  Eng|ifh  iheep,  the  one  long 
bodied  and  long  legged,  introduced  into  this  country  by  Cul- 
ley,  they  are  commonly  Icnown  by  the  name  of  Muggs  1  the 
other  is  alfo  long  bodied,  but  broad  backed  and  fhort  legged, 
introduced  by  BakewelL  They  are  both  alt  white,  body, 
free,  and  legs :  Both  of  them  have  much  finer  wool,  and  a 
larger  quantity  of  it,  than  the  Scots  (heep.  Bakewell's  kind 
have  the  fineft  fhort  wool*  From  an  experiment  lately  tried, 
a  croft  between  the  two  breeds  feems  to  anlwer  well ;  viz. 
the  ram  of  the  Colley,  the  ewe  of  the  Bakewell  breed.  In 
this  cultivated  diftrift  and  oiiild  climate,  the  Englifh  are  prefer- 
red to  the  Scots  fheep,  on  account  of  the  greater  quantity, 
,  and  finer  quality,  of  the  wool ;  their  being  left  hurtful  to  the 
hedges ;  and  thdr  greater  weight  when  fold  to  the  butcher. 
The  whole  number  of  (heep  in  the  pariOi,  amounts  at  prefent 
only  to  about  1000. 

The  produce  of  the  diftriA  is,  on  the  whole,  much  greater 
than  fufficient  for  the  cooflimptiou  of  the  inhabitants.  About 
two  thirds  of  the  whole  iscarried  to  markets  out  of  the  parifb, 
Tijs.  a  confiderable  quantity  of  butter,  milk,  veal,  mutton, 

beef. 


^  Sta4ftical  Aeama 

beefy  wheat,  dat-meal*  and  barley,  to  Demlnesi  a  lafge 
quantitT'of  wheat  apd  barley  to  Whitehaven  and  Livezpool ; 
of  oats  to  Greenock  i  and  a  great  number  of  young  black, 
cattle  and  (heep  to  the  towns  m  the  neighbourhood. 

There  are  hares,  and  fome  fbxes^  and  aU  the  fowls  which 
are  natives  of  the  fouth  part  of  Scotland.  The  migratory 
birds  are  the  fvallow,  and  the  cnckow.  Daring  the.  whole 
year  the  fca  galls,  commonly  calledi  in  this  parUh,  fia  maws^ 
occafionallyiiome  from  the  Solway  Frith  to  tliis  part  of  the 
country ;  their  arrival  feldom  fkik  of  being  followed  by 
a  high  wind,  and  heavy  rain,  from  the  fouth-weft,  within 
twenty-four  hoiirs ;  and  they  return  to  the  Frith  again  as 
foon  as  the  ftorm  begins  to  abate. 

Roads  and  Bridgei.^^Thc  roads  were  originally  made  by 
the  ftatute  labour  i  but  in  that  way  they  were  neither  half 
rnade^  nor  half  kept  in  repair.  Several  years  ago,  an  a£k  of 
parliament  was  obtained  for  this  county,  converting  the  fta^ 
tute  labour  into  money,  to  be  paid  by  the  occupiers  of  landj 
at  a  rate  not  exceeding  las.  in  the  loo  merks  of  Scotch  va^ 
luation,  and  a  certain  fum  to  be  paid  by  the  pdTcflbrs  of 
houfes  in  towns  and  villages.  In  fome  di(lri£b  of  the  conn* 
ty,  where  making  the  roads  is  expenfive,  the  occupiers 
of  land  have  been  aflefled  to  the  ultimum :  but  in  thi^i  and 
fome  others,  the  afleflment  has  never  been  more  than  6  s^ 
fpr  each  loo  merks.  The  converiion  money  is  very  well 
laid  out  in  this  parifh.  The  roads  are  put,  and  l^ept,  in  a9 
good  repair  as  the  fum  collc£led  can  poiEbly  do ;  but,  as  the 
roads  are  extenfive,  and,  as  there  is  a  thoroughfiiir  through 
the  pariOi,  from  a  large  and  populous  furrounding  country, 
to  the  markets  at  Dumfries,  this  fum  is  too  fmall  to  keep 
the  roads  ip  fufficient  repair  \  and  it  would  probably  be  cheap- 
er. 


«rj  in  the  toAf  to  by  on  the  fiill  afleflment  of  12  s.  for  a  few 
jean»  till  all  the  roads  are  completely  finiihed,  and  then  t# 
reduce  the  afleflfipent  to  4$.  which  would  be  fuflScient  for 
ke^ng  them  in  repair.  Left  the  prefent  tenants  ibould  be 
aggrieved  by  paying  12  s.  while  their  fucceflbrsy  who  woidd 
enjoy  the  benefit  of  good  roads^  pay  only  4s.  the  landlords 
ihoold  jpay  the  additional  6  s«  and  receive  it  afterwards  from 
the  fubfequent  tenants  at  2  s.  a  year^  till  the  landlords  be  re^ 
imboried*  A  great  turnpike  road  is  now  making  between 
Carlifle  and  Ghigow,  which  runs  through  the  parilh.  It 
will  be  completely  finifhcd  in  thb  county  before,  or  about  the 
b^ginmng  of  May  next.  The  tolls  upon  it  are  moderate, 
and  win  be  fiiUy  fiiffidcnt  for  making  and  repairing  it.  This 
soad»  like  all  other  turnpikes  under  proper  management, 
tnuft  be  highly  advantageous  to  the  country.  The  bridges 
in  the  pariih  are  good.-  The  only  large  one  in  it  was  ori« 
g^laUy  built,  and  is  fiiU  kept  in  repair,  by  the  county  of 
Dumfries  and  ftewartry  of  Galloway,  as  it  is  built  over  the 
Ouden,  which  is  the  march  between  the  two  counties.  The 
finaller  ones,  being  all  within  the  parilh,  were  built,  and  are 
kept  in  repair,  by  the  pariih. 

jtntifmiki. — There  are  no  other  remains  of  antiquity  than 
the  Druidical  temple  already  mentioned,  and  two  old  houfes 
built  in  the  tower  fafliion.  There  is  one  large  heap  of  imall 
ftones,  a  part  of  which  was  opened  feveral  years  ago.  and 
'  fome  human  bones  iaid  to  have  been  found  in  it.  The  Abbey 
of  Holywood  ftood  in  the  fite  of  a  part  of  the  prefent  church* 
yard.  About  half  of  the  head  of  the  crofs  of  this  abbey  was 
ilanding  in  the  year  1779,  when  it  (erved  for  the  pariih 
chuKh.  Thcfe  remains,  however,  were  then  pulled  down, 
and  the  materials  uied,  in  part,  for  building  the  prefent  new 
chnrch.    The  veftiges  of  the  old  abbey  are  fufficiently  evi- 

Vol-.  L  E  dent 


34        ^  Siaiijiical  AccotM 

dent  in  the  church-yard}  and  the  adjoinhg  fartn  retains  thtf 
name  of  Abbey.  The  prefenc  church  has  two  fine  ttfned  bells, 
taken  out  of  the  old  building ;  one  of  which,  by  an  infcrip- 
tion  and  date  on  it,  appears  to  have  been  confecrated  by  the 
Abbot  John  Wrich,  in  the  year  1 154.  From  itndoubtcd  tc^ 
cords,  this  abbey  belonged  to  the  monks  of  the  order  of 
I^remontr^,  which  was  inftituted  in  the  diocefe  of  Loon  in 
France,  in  the  year  1 1 20,  and  was  fo  called,  becaufe,  as  the 
monks  fay,  the  place  was  ^^  divina  revelatione  ^raeihonftra* 
«  turn/' 

'  Eiymologj  oflTames  of  Places. — ^The  ifamcs  of  places  in  thir 
pariHi  fcem  to  be  derived  partly  from  the  Gaelic,  and  partly 
from  the  Englifli,  ami  Tome  from  the  Danifh.  The  namesr' 
derived  from  the  Engllfh  are  either  expreffive  of  the  parti- 
cular fituation  of  the  places,  or  of  the  proprietor  to  whom 
they  originally  belonged.  Thus  Broofhrig^  fit uated  on  a  ridge 
that  produces  much  broom ;  GooReiM,  fitUated  bn  a  rifing 
ground  producing  much  gool  *  i  Mofsjide^  fittiafed  on  the  fide 
ofamofs'}  <^/^|^</^  fituated  at  a  ford  in  the  Cluden  where 
foot  pafiangers  crofs  the  water  on  ftepping  ftones,  that  have 
bren  placed  there  time  immemorial;  Morinton,  the  town  of 
Morinc  j  Stenuarton^  the  town  of  Stewart,  &c.  Holm^  derived 
from  the  Danifh,  in  which  language  holm  (ignifi^es  an  ifland. 
From  the  Gaelic  are  moft  probably  derived  Speddock,  Barfrtg^ 
gan^  Glengaier,  Glengaur^  M^Whannichy  &c.  Kill  fiefs  feems 
to  be  compounded  of  two  languages,  cella^  the  Latin  for  a 
chapel  or  cell,  and  nefs^  or  naes^  the  Danlfli  for.  a  promontory, 
or  bead  land,  (it  may  alfb  be  derived  from  the  Latin  nqfus)^ 
Killnefs  fignifying  the  chapel  or  cell  on  the  promontory :  The 

*    place 

*  GooU  Dr  Johnfton  fays,  is  a  weed  with  a  yellow  flower,  which 

E:ows  among  the  com,  on  light  lands,  in  wet  feafons,  abont 
ammas*    It  is  the  wild  marygold. 


9f  Uoljiwood.  35 

jriace  fb  .called  is  .the  field  wher^  the  Druidical  temple  above 
soentipned  ftands^  and  it  is. prominent  intQ  the  river  Cluden. 

Emtunt  Men  Nafives  of  the  P^yrjl^.— Holywood  has  pro- 
duced no  men  of  eminence  in  learning  or  fcience^  except  Mr 
Charles  Irvine  furgeon.  IJe  was  a  younger  fon  of  the  late 
^William  Irvine  of  Gribtoa.  Efq;  and  the  perfon  who,  feveral 
years  ago,  difcovered  the  p^ethod  of  rendering  fait  water  frefh^ 
for  which  he  was  rewarded  by  government  with  a  jjrant  of 
£ve  thoufand  pounds. 

Mtfcellamous  Oi/ervations. -^Thc  harvefts  of  1782^  and 
1783,  were  very  late,  efpecially  that  of  1782.  Before  the 
com  was  all  cut  in  this  part  of  the  country,  there  were  in- 
teole  fipofts  and  heav^  fnows.  On  the  2d  of  November  1782^ 
in  particular,  a  very  heavy  fall  of  fnow  covered  the  corn  fo 
deepi  and  by  fo  long,  that  they  could  not  be  cut  for  feveral 
days  after.  Though  the  harveft  was  uncommonly  late  in 
this  parifh  in  thefe  two  years,  and  though  the  lateft  of  the 
com  in  it  was  hurt  by  the  froft,  yet  the  harveft  here  was 
earlier  than  in  any  other  part  of  Scotland  i  and  the  greateft 
part  of  the  corn  was  ripened  before  the  frofts  came  on.  Under 
all  thefe  untoward  circumftances,  the  crops  of  thefe  years  were^ 
however,  uncommonly  good,  as  is  the  cafe,  not  only  this  year, 
but  alfo  in  all  late  years,  owing  to  the  peculiar  dryneis  and  ear- 
linefs  of  the  foil  and  climate  of  this  pariih.  The  ^eperal  fcarcity 
of  meal  in  Scotland  during  thefe  two  years,  and  the  great  de- 
mand for  feed  com  from  thofe  counties  where  the  frofts  had 
deftroyed  the  crops,  greatly  increafed,  as  is  well  remembered, 
the  price  of  meal  and  oats  all  over  Scotland.  At  that  time 
the  farmers  of  this  parKh  had  large  quantities  of  both,  efpe- 
cially of  feed  com,  to  fell ;  and  they  cleared  by  it  in  tho(e 
two  years,  pore  than  they  ever  did  in  any  other  two  years. 

Thi 


ijtf  StayiUal  Accma 

The  price  of  oat-meal  was  then  as.  6  A.  the  done  of  \i\ 
poands ;  higher  than  was  erer  known  before  or  fince.  In 
thb  parifli  the  heritors  and  farmersi  bj  a  vohmtarj  contri- 
butiony  coQe6ked  mto  two  ftore-hoiiieS|  one  at  each  extremi- 
Xj  of  the  pariihi  all  the  meal  they  could,  and  diftribnted 
it  among  the  poor  laboorers  and  artificers  at  2  s.  a  ftone,  un- 
til it  fell  in  the  markets  to  that  price ;  and  bj  thus  lofing  6  A. 
a  ftone  in  the  meal  which  they  fold,  they  were  the  happy 
means  of  preferving  their  poor  pariflxioners  firom  the  general 
calamity  of  the  country. 


NUM. 


*  Of  PehfatrkU^  ^f 


NUMBER     IIL 
PARISH  OF  PORTPATRICK. 


Fnm  MtUffkbJurmfbedh]  the  Rev^  Mr  John  M'Kbkzis 
Mmj/Ur  of  thai  Parijb. 


Oripn  eftie  Name, 

PORTPATRICX  is  called  in  the  old  charters  Port  Mont- 
gomer^y  from  a  noble  family  of  that  name^  who  at  one 
time  pofiefled  large  traAs  of  land  on  both  fides  of  the  Irifh 
Channel.  They  were  ennobled  by  the  title  of  Earl  Mount- 
Alexander,  which  became  extinft  in  1758.  They  have  now 
none  of  their  Scots  pofleffions  remaining,  but  their  reprefen- 
tatives  ftiU  inherit  a  confiderable  eftate  in  IrelaBd. 

It  is  probable  that'  Portpatrick  was  the  antient  popular 
name  of  this  place,  and  that  the  above  family,  when  they  be- 
came the  proprietors,  had  attempted  to  fet  it  afide,  and  to 
fnbfHtute  their  own.  This  is  one  of  the  many  monuments 
which  prove,  that  in  antient  times  there  flouriihed  in  Ireland 
a  very  eminent  perfon  of  the  name  of  Patrick.  The  vene- 
ration for  this  name  muft  have  been  very  great,  fince,  even 
on  tlus  fide  of  the  wateri  it  has  prevailed  over  that  of 
]tfoiitgomeryt 


38  StatiJUed  Accmi 

SitubtioM  and  Sutfaa.-^Tht  fituation  of  the  town  and  ^ 
ri{h  is  well  known,  being  the  neareft  point  of  the  whole 
ifland  of  Great  Britain  to  Ireland,  and  the  beft  V^^^  ^or 
crofling  from  the  one  kingdom  to  the  other,  the  paflage  be- 
ing only  twenty  miles  over.  It  is  fituated  in  the  prelbytery 
of  Stranraer  and  county  of  Wigton.  The  parifli  is  oif  fmall 
extent,  being  only  about  three  Scots  miles  fquare.  The  greater 
part  is  moor  land,  and  it  abounds  with  mofles,  not  only  in  the 
lower  grounds,  but  even  on  the  tops  of  finne  of  the  highcft 
-  mountains,  where  the  mofs  is  frequently  fix  or  feven  feet 
deep.  The  common  fuel  is  peat,  which  is  in  fuch  quantities, 
that  firom  thirty  to  fortj^carts,  drawn  by  two  horfes  each, 
are  regularly  employed  during  the  fummer  feaibn  in  bringing 
peats  to  the  neighbouring  towns  of  Portpatrick  and  Stranraer. 

Town  of  Portpatrick, — ^The  town  is  adouraUy  fituate^.  It 
enjoys  a  fouthern  ezpofure,  with  a  femic;rde  of  hills  on  ^e 
BOrthi  which  at  the  fame  time  defends  it  firom  all  the 
cold  winds,  and  concentrates  the  rays  of  the  fun,  fo  that  few 
places  in  the  fame  latitude  can  boaft  of  a  warmer  climate. 
The  common  water  which  pours  from  the  hills  is  excellent  i 
and  there  is  a  mineral  well,  which  has  beoi  found  of  feryi^e 
in  common,  but  particularly  in  ftonuurhic  diforders.  But  above 
all,  the  fea-bathing  is  admirable.  The  water  is  peculiarly 
ftrong-.  and  the  tide  rifes  tp  fu^h  a  height  dofe  to  the  ihoie, 
that  a  man,  as  well  as  a  yeflel,  may  be  inftantly  launched  into 
any  depth  he  pleafes.  In  fhort,  no  fituation  can  be  better 
calculated  for  a  watering  place,  (hould  the  rage  for  theni  con- 
tinue to  prevail  as  generally  as  at  prcfent, 

Tie  fIariot4r.^^'FQrmerlj  the  harbour  was  a  mere  inlet  be- 
tween two  ridges  of  rocks  which  advanced  intp  the  fe?  i  the 
efkSt  of  this  was,  that  as  there  is  a  prodigious  weight  of  wa* 
•  ters 


Of  Portpatrick.  39  ' 

ters  thi'otm  la  here  when  the  Wind  blows  upod  the  fhore, 
and  as  there  was  no  clboW  to  proteA  a  teflel,  Ihe  was  always 
oUiged;  when  (he  took  the  harbour^  to  run  aground ;  and  the 
tsA  operatioh,  which  neccflarily  followed^  was,  that  the 
Whole  ihhabitalits,  meii  and  women^  ran  down,  and  by  maia 
force,  dragged  her  up  the  beach,  out  of  the  reach  of  the 
waves,  which  wonld  Otherwiie  have  daihed  her  to  pieces. 
This  ag^n  had  another  effeA,  that  none  but  flat  bottomed 
veflels  could  navigate  here.  It  is  but  lately  that  two  of  thefe  . 
large  flats,  which  had  formerly  been  government  ffackets, 
were  to  be  feen  on  our  ihore,  as  monuments  of  antient  bar* 
barxty* 

Theft  were*  times  of  mifery,  though  the  inhabitants  were 
the  happieft  of  mortals.  Their  continued  exertions  in 
launching  and  drawing  up  their  veflels,  excited  wonderful 
fpiritf,*  which  they  knew'  how  to  recruit  when  exhaufted. 
Every  day  that  a  veflTel  either  failed  or  arrived  was  a  feftival. 

Th^re  is  now  on  the  fame  fpot  one  of  the  fined  quays  in 
Britain^  with  a  refining  lightJioufe ;  and  inftead  of  a  few 
flat-bottomed  boats^  above  a  dozen  of  trading  veflels,  of  from 
40  to  60  tons,  which  fail  and  return  regularly,  befides  a  num- 
ber of  vefl^eb  which  occafionally  come  from  other  ports. 
The  larger  veflcb  are  navigated  at  an  average  by  fix  men 
each  *•    Tlie  light- houfe  is  particularly  ufeful,  and  as  there 

has 


•  At  this,  as  well  as  at  every  ferry  or  pafTage  of  great  rcfort, 
f  bere  are  a  fet  of  people  who  make  themfeW es  ufeful  to  paflen- 
gcr%t  but  who  diftinguifli  themfelves  alfo  by  the  impofitions 
which  they  pradice.  There  are  about  twenty  perfons  of  that 
deicription  at  Portpatrick,  who  are  known  by  the  name  of  the 
Robhcry^  from  their  fuppofed  depradations  on  the  public.  They 
are  abfolutely  neceflkry  at  this  port,  and  another  body  of  the 
/kme  fort  are  equally  fenriceable  on  the  other  fide  ot  the  CluUi* 


40  Stati/Hcal  4u$uh$ 

has  long  been  arother  ligj^t-boufe  on  the  Iiifli  fide^  it 
ders  the  paflage,  crea  in  the  darkeft  night,  convenient  and 
comfortable,  like  a  fireet  wcU  lighted  on  both  fides.  The, 
lea  riles  confiderably  along  thb  ooaft.  At  low  water  you  caa. 
walk  round  the  point  of  the  pier,  which  at  high  water  is. 
from  ten  to  fifteen  feet  deep  at  the  entrance*  This  bdng 
the  narroweft  part  of  the  Channel,  has  naturally  the  eBoEt 
of  accumulating  the  fluid  upon  the  ihores,  when  there  if 
a  (well  from  a  fiorm.  What  is  further  deferving  of  it^ 
mark  is,  that  at  Donaghadee,  which  is  ajmoft  dire£tty  op- 
pofito,  the  fea  ebbs  and  flows  near  an  hour  fooner  than  at 
Portpatrick.  There  are  alio  (which  is  ftiU  more  remark- 
able)  fome  particular  parts  of  the  coaft,  weU  luiown  to 
our  feamen,  more  eipecially  one  about  two  miles  from  the 
fhore  of  Portpatrkk,  where  the  fame  hEt  i|  ohferved.  Within 
three  or  four  miles  of  the  Irilh  (hore,  when  the  flood  re- 
turns, there  is  a  regular  cprrent  which  fets  off  ffax>ngly  for 
the  Mull  of  Galloway.  It  nms  at  the  rate  of  feren  knots 
an  hour,  and  is  fo  forcible,  that  when  the  wind  oppoies  it,  it 
exhibits,  for  a  great  way,  the  appearance  of  breakers.  It  Is 
called  the  Rac^  of  Strangers^  and  is  a  very  curious  fpedacle. 

The  Packet  Boats  to  Ire/artd^-^Tht  mode  of  conveying  the 
mail  between  the  two  kingdoms  has  undergone  many  changes. 
At  firft  regular  packet  boats,  with  falaries,  were  eftabUfhed* 
But  before  the  quay  was  builti  and,  while  the  j)afi[age 
was  attended  with  the  difficulties  above  defcribed,  delays 
were  frequent.  The  failors,  efpecially  as  their  wages  at 
all  events  were  running  on,  often  chofc  to  reft  themfelves. 
£ftabli(hed  packets  were  therefore  abolifbed,  and  a  rule  fixed. 

That 

nel ;  but  the  manner  in  which  their  fees  are  eza^ed,  particu- 
larly  when  they  meet  with  any  difficulty  in  the  payment,  is  ra- 
ther barlh  and  difagrecable. 


Of  Port/^rkk.  4^ 

That  vhocV^  iaUed  firft  ilhould.  havie  themall,  and  a  certain 
fum  for  carrjring  it.'  This  operated  as  a  preoiiuciii  and  pro* 
4uced,  for  a  long  Ume,  a  very  good  cffeA.  Soon  after,  how* 
cvtr,  as  trade  increafed,  the  ^Uowance  made  bf  government 
became  of  .kfs  coQfequcoce^  .  The  packets  were  no  longer 
the  fame.  objeA*  It  o£|en  happened,  that  ^  bpat  wouI,d  not 
lail  with'  the  mail,  unlefs .  (he  had  fbntethiog  elfe  to  carr  j. 
The  mail  coach  .ilfo  was  eftabliihed,  and  the  conveyance  of  tra« 
^lers  became  an  objeft  of  atteotioi^*  Ihr  boau  which  carr 
ried  cattle  were  peculiar!/  offeofive  to  pafiengers,  not  to  men- 
tion that  fuch  a  cargo,  with- a  gale  of  wind,  was  even  dao- 
geronsk  Faflengers  were  therefore  difgufted  or  deterxxrd,  and 
yrere  often,  induced  to  take  another  rout.  -  It  was  one  great 
branch  of  Mr  Palmer's  public  fpirited  platis  for  promoting 
the  commercial  intercourfe  of  the  Britiih  empire  in  general^ 
to  unite  as  much  as  poffible  the  three  great  offices  of  Lon- 
don, Ediaburgh,  and  Dublin.  His  mail  coaches  regularly 
went  firom  Dublin  to  Donaghadee,  on  the/oneilde;  and 
from  London  and  Edinburgh  to .  Portpatrick,  on  the  o* 
ther.  Nothing*)  therefore,  remained  to  complete  the  chain^ 
hot  to  obviate  tlie  inconrenicncies  of  the  ferry  at  Portpatrick  i 
this  he  did  by  reftoring  eftabliQied  packets.  We  have  now 
four  elegant  veffels,  fitted  up  with  every  accommodation, 
whofe  only  objcft  is  to  forward  the  mail,  and  to  convey 
travellers  from  the  one  ifland  to  the  other. 

The  town,  which  is  in  a  great  meafure  fupporied  by  the 
coDCourfe  of  travellers,  has  in  a  peculiar  manner  felt  the  be* 
nefit  of  thefe  improvements,  Almoft  every  houfe  is  an  inn, 
where  ftrangers  may  find  accommodation  fuited  to  their  cir.* 
cutnflances.  The  money  they  leave  is  the  great  fund  out  of 
irbich  the  inhabitants  pay  their  rents,  and  iupport  their  fa- 
jnilies.     The  rapid  change,  however,  which  has  taken  place^ 

Yoi..  L  F  ij 


4t  Suni^cal  AumnI 

Is  greatly  to  be  attributed  to  the  late  Sir  James  Hunter  Blur, 
who  happened  to  live  at  the  critical  period  when  the  change 
began.  He  had  fagacity  enough  to  forefee  the  many  advan- 
tages which  ffiuft  refult  finom  it,  and  forwarded  the  prelec- 
ted improvement  as  much  as  poffifaie,  by  filling  the  harbour 
immediately  with  veflelsi  and  building  almoft  entirely  a  new 
town,  to  accommodate  the  inhabitants  and  the  travellers  who 
palled  through  it.  Such  is  the  origin  and  the  progrefs  of  inw 
provementy  which  is  generally  owingi  whether  in  a  great  ca^ 
pttal  like  Edinburgh*  or  a  provincial  town  like  Portpatrick, 
to  the  rpiric  and  exertions  of  particular  men,  who  (eem  bom 
for  the  purpofe  of  roufing  the  multitude  from  a  date  of  ig« 
sorance  or  torpor,  froq[i  ^icb  they  are  too  often  unwilling 
tP  be  emancipated. 

Jlfanij/^^tfr^/.— Manu&ftures  have  not*  yet  made  their 
way  to  Porcpatrick.  Ship-building  is  the  only  one  as  yet  at- 
tempted. Under  the  aufpices  of  the  a£Uve  and  public  fpirited 
chizen  above  mentioned,  feme  companies  of  (hipwrights  havu 
been  formed^  who  are  likely  to  carry  on  that  branch  fuc- 
cefsfully.  The  depth  of  the  water,  and  the  (hortnefs  of  the 
run,  render  it  oqe  of  th^  moft  convenient  launches  that  can 
l)e  conceived. 

Commerce. — Both  our  exports  and  Imports  have  greatly  in- 
crea(ed.  We  export  here  goods  from  Paifley,  Manchcfter, 
^c;  and  we  import  coniiderable  quantities  of  the  Irifli  linen 
manufaAure.  The  inhabiUnts  of  Portpatrick,  however,  are 
generally  only  the  carriers ;  the  dealers  are  thoie  who,  not 
being  fufficlently  opulent  to  freight  and  load  large  (hips,  car^ 
.  ry  on  a  hauking  bufioefs  by  land«  They  bring  their  goods 
in  carts,  and  hire  the  Portpatrick  vcflcis  to  convey  them  from 
pne  fkoTZ  to  the  other- 


Of  P^rtpatrick.  4^ 

biflk  Catt&»-«But  of  all  the  articles  of  the  commerce  of 
Pmpadick^  the  import  of  black  cattle  aod  borfes  from  Ire- 
knd  is  by  far  the  moft  intcreftiog.  Formerly  fttch  a  com* 
raerce  was  prohibited,  for  the  purpofe  of  cncotiragiag  ou^ 
own  breed.  The  £ree  importation  was  firft  permitted  by'  5th 
George  til.  cap.  10.  $  i.  for  feven  years,  and  from  thence  to 
the  ecA  of  the  then  next  feOion  of  Parliament.  It  was  a£» 
terwards  continued  by  feveral  temporary  aAs,  and  at  laft 
made  perpetual,  by  x6th  George  III.  cap.  8.  From  the  firft 
removal  of  the  prohibition,  there  was  a  fmall  annual  iibpor- 
tation;  but  it  waA  never  carried  on  to  any  great  extent  till 
1784,  when  it  rofe  fuddenly  without  any  caufe  that  has  yet 
been  affigned  for  it»  In  that  year  there  were  imported,  be« 
tween  the  5th  of  January  1784,  and  the  5th  of  January 
1785,00  lefs  than  18,301  black  cattle,  and  1233  hdrlHi, 
The  importation  of  cattle  and  horfes,  for  the  laft  live  yearsi 
ending  the  loth  of  OAober  1790,  lias  varied  in  the  follow- 
log  manner : 

Black  Cattle*        tiorfesi 
From  10th  Oft.  1785  to  do*  1786  10,452  1256 

■  '  1787  7*007  1623 

^ >    1788  9,488  2777 

■   1789         i3>3a*  aaia 

■  1790         141873  2402 


Total  in  five  years,  5S»'4»  10,270 

which,  at  an  average,  is  about  x  1,000  head  of  cattle,  and 
2000  hcrfcs  fer  afufum*  Great  as  this  importation  has  beeoi. 
It  has  not  as  yet  materially  hurt  the  £de^  or  dtminiflied  the 
price  of  cattle,  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Portpatrick*  On. 
the  contvary,'  the  detnand  for  them  has  been  rather  on  the  in- 
creaie.  It  is  probable,  however,  that  it  would  have  beea 
freater,  had  there  been  00  import* 

Befided 


44  Stafi/lkal  Accoua 

'  BeSdes  tbc  tattle  imported  hefe,  there  are  alio  coJOLfider* 
able  DuoibcTB  ftnt  from  BelfaA^  Bangor,  Newrj,  &c.  direJUf 
to  England*  The  Englilh  coal  vtEkh  always  take  b^ck  cattle 
from  Ireland  when  they  have  h  in  their  jK>wer ;  but  it  if  bdicT« 
ed  that  the  largeil  import  is  at  Fortpatnck.  The  great  ex« 
tent  of  fea  bf  any  other  pafiage,  efpecially  in  the  .winter  fea* 
(caif  is  much  againft  the  fate  and  fuccefsful  traofpOirtation 
of  a  cargo,  lo  pcriihable  in  itielf,  and  liable  to  fo.  many  acci^ 
dents. 

This  trade  depends  (o  much  oppb  the  quantity  of  grais»of 
hay,  and  ofWoips  in  tngland^and  fomctitues  even  upon  the 
profpcA  of  large  crops  of  thcfe  articles,  that  there  it  much 
f^ieculatiott  in  it.    Great  gains  and  great  lofies.  are,  therefore, 
Ittdden  and  frequent.     Hence  the  iinport  is  Unequal.    Some 
people  fuppofe  that  the  trade  is  favourable  to  fmuggling, 
and  ho&ile  ta  the  revenue.     Others  obje£l  to  it,  as  in  a  pe* 
culiir  manner  detrimental  to  thofe  diftrifls  in  Scotland  where 
black  cattle  are  bred  -,  and  there  feems  to  be  rather  a  hard* 
Ihtp  ih  permitling  fuch  numbers  of  cattle  to  be  imported  iii« 
to  North  Britain,  or  even  carried  through  it,  in  order  to  rival 
tlie  produdlions  of  that  very  country,  in  the  only  market  ta 
w-hich  it  has  aecefs.     Without  entering,  however,  into  thefc 
rpecuhtiOt;s,  it  may  be  iulHclent  at  prcfent  to  remark,   that 
the  import  wiH  protjably  diminifli   of  itfclf,  in  confequence 
of  the  rapid  progreft  which  Ireland  is  now  making.     The 
time  is  faft  approaching^  when  that  kingdom  will  be  m  the 
£ime  (late  in  which  £n[<land  is  at  prcfent,  having  a  market 
within  hfelf  fufflcient  for  the  cot>rumption  of  its  own  pro- 
ductions.    Perhaps  that  may  foon  be  the  cafe  in  regard    to 
other  commodities,  befides  cattle.     The  Irilh  are  rapidly  im^ 
proving  in  oor  manofaftures,  and  we  in  theirs,  at  Icail  the 
cottons  of  Manchciler  and  Clafgow.  are  Ckely  foon  to  fiip* 

pJy 


p^  tli«  pUce  of  the  linttis  of  Ireland  %  fiilhat  in  timd  thd'c 
will  remain  few  articles  to  barter  between  the  two  kingdojns. 

Ff/btries,^^  sitxj  cxtenfive  fiihery  might  be  efiablilhed  at 
Portpatrick,  particularly  of  cod  ;  as  the  Channel  is  there  the 
aarroweft,  and  the  tide  the  flrongcft,  nobe  but  the  heahhieft 
and  beft  fifh  can  live  in  it.  The  late  8ir  James  Hunter  BUr 
propofied  the  cftahlld^iMnt  of  a  fiihiog  compapy,  and,  had  {ic 
lived,  he  would  probaUy  have  effected  it.  After  his  death, 
fome  £lhcrmen  came  and  planted  their  Imes,  but  the  i;apidU 
ty  of  the  tide  repeatedly  carried  them  away.  Unfortunately 
they  had  not  &ill  eiKAigh  to  increafe  their  anchorage  nor 
iagadty  to  difcover,  that  two  ftone  weight  was  heavier  thaa 
one* 

P^Ai/Mn.— The  return  to  the  inquiries  made  by  Dr. 
Wd>fter»  regarding  the  population  of  the  parifli  of  Poi»pa- 
trkki  about  forty  years  ago,  was  551  fouls.  It  has  fince  coa^ 
iidarably  increafed.  It  appears  from  an  enumeration  recem-* 
ly  made,  that  there  are  in  the  country  part  of  the  parifii, 
484,  and  in  the  town,  512,  fouls,  fo  that  the  whole  popula* 
i\iom  amounts  to  9p<$,  being  an  addition^  in  that  fpace  of  timc^ 
of  445  foub. 

The  bir:hs,  deaths^  and  marriages^  as  eQtered  in  the  parlfli 
regifter,  for  the  laft  eight  years,  are  as  follows : 


'cars. 

Births. 

Deaths. 

Marriagn. 

1783 

— .        26 

— 

»3. 

—          5 

1784 

~        ^/ 

— 

»8 

—          9 

1785 

—  .     a? 

,  — 

»3 

—          4    . 

1786 

—       3' 

— 

16 

r-         9 

1787 

—        34 

^mm 

a. 

—         7 

1781. 

4$ 

Suai/ttislJxtmH 

Tear*. 

Knhs. 

Dnthfc         Ma 

tWU^jHt 

1788 

—       50 

—         itf        — 

9 

1789 

—       37 

—         30        — 

4 

■'  »790 

—       3-1 

—         tt        — 

9 

J&n#  ^  /Af  Ptffi}A.-^Aboal  the  fear  17^1,  the  whole  pi^ 
'liih  wu  Talaed^  for  the  piirpofe  of  alcdtainiiig  the  anyiitytf 
of  the  teimli  or  the  value  of  the  t^hes^  and  k  wai  then  eft^ 
mated  at  L.  472  Sterling.  But  as  the  mcrcafe  has  fince  been 
very  confiderable,  the  land  rent  alone  is  now  about  L.  1000 
per€mnum\  the  town  rent  is  at  leaft  L. 200  more;  the  dua 
of  anchorage,  and  a  dutj  of  2  d.  fer  hread  on  all  cattle  and 
liorfes  exported  or  imported,  pejsMe  10  the  Bbur  finnilj, 
may  ^Ifo  bring  in  about  L.  120,  fo  that  the  rent  of  the  pariih 
is  rather  better  than  L.  1300  a  year. 

iiiptnd^'^Thc  ftipend  has  latdy  received  an  aogmentatioa^ 
and  now  yields  about  L.80  a  year.  With  the  addition  of  a 
manfe,  and  a  glebe  of  about  twelve  or  thirteen  acres.  The 
church  was  built  antto  1629,  and  has  lately  been  repaired. 
Sir  John  Hunter  Blair  is  patron.  At  prefent  there  are  but 
three  heritors  in  the  parifli.  There  are  leldom  above  twtlve 
perlbns  on  the  poor's  lift.  The  funds  for  the  naaintettmce 
of  the  poor  arife  chiefly  from  weekly  coHeftions  at  the 
thurch  door,  and  cannot  be  calculated  at  moie  than  L,  iw 
fer  annunu 

^ 

Languagi.^^Tht  names  of  places  in  this  parifli  are  faid  to 
be  of  Gaelic  original,  but  no  perfon  living  remembers  the 
time  when  that  language  was  fpoken  here.  It  is,  however, 
nftore  than  probable,  as  Portpatrick  was  included  in  the  an- 

tient 


tient  kingdom  of  GaHoway,  it  was  of  confequence  inhabitdl 
by  a  tribe  of  the  Celts. 

Antiquities  and  Natural  Curio/tttes.^^Tlit  Caftle  of  Dunfkey 
tt  the  only  remariESible  fattildiDg  io  tfar  parifli.  It  (lands  up* 
on  the  brink  of  a  tremendous  precipice  on  the  edge  of  the 
Iriih  fea,  and  has  bpen  iecured  on  the  land  fide  by  a  ditch  and 
draw-bridge,  the  remains  pf  which  are  ftill  vifible.  It  was 
certainly  built  as  a  place  of  fecutity  againft  fudden  incurfions 
in  Che  days  of  violence,  and  in  former  times  muft  have  been 
cafily  defended.  A  tftve  id  the  neighbourhood  of  Dunfkey 
•ught  alio  to  be  mentioned,  on  account  of  the  great  vqie^ 
mioo  in  which  it  is  held  by  the  people.  At  the  chaage 
of  the  moon  (which  is  (till  coofidercd  with  fuperftitious  ro^ 
vercDct)^  it  is  ufual  to  bring,  even  from  t  ^at  diftance,  jom 
firm  perfoDS,  sm4  pHticohrly  ricketcy  children,  whom  thc^ 
often  foppofe  bewitched,  to  bathe  in  a  -ftrtam  whfch  pOurs 
from  the  hiU,  and  then  dry  them  in  the  cave* 

The  Cairffat^  which  lifet  8oa  feet  above  the  tovd  of  the 
fea,  and  is  fuppo/ed  to  be  the  fecood  or  third  moimtain  in 
Galloway,  meritt  alfo  to  be  noticed.  It  bears  all  the  marks 
of  having  been  a  military  ftation,  beb^  furrounded  by  three 
ftooe  watts  or  intrenchments,  with  very  ample  fpaces  between 
them,  and  commands  a  profpeft  of  Loch  Ryan  and  of  I^nce 
Bay,  ijrbich  form  the  peninfttla  in  which  Portpatrick  is  fitn- 
ated  ;  England  alio,  the  Ifle  of  Man,  Ireland,  and  pat  of 
the  Highlands  of  Seotbnd,  art  feen  rifing  at  a  diftance. 

NUM. 


Smyikal  AictnM 

NUMBER     IV. 

PARISH   OF  HOUNAM, 

IN   ROXBURGH*8HIRE. 


Oripn  of  tie  Nami.' 

THE  porifli  of  Hounam  doc3  not  fiin>>fl^ttMicIi  room  far 
ftatifticalinTeft'igation^and  the  feweblervatlons  which 
•ccur  reTpefiing  it^  maj  be  comprebeaded  irithin  narrow 
hounds.  The  origin  of  its  name  cannot  now  be  ifcerraincd. 
There  are  many  places  in  the  neighbonihood,  on  the  borders 
koth.of  England  and  Scotland^  ending  in  am.  It  is  believed 
that  bam,  in  the  Snon  langnagei  figniSes  a  habitation  or  viU 
lage.  Perhaps  it  was  originally  pronounced  Hounaham,  or 
the  habiution  of  Htena^  a  name  not  unknown  at  the  oppo- 
ite  extremity  of  the  kingdom  *• 

aUttaim  and  ExUfii  tf  tbi  PariJb^^Tli^  fmOi  is  (Itiuted 
in  the  county  6f  Roxburgh,  in  tlie  prtibytery  of  Jeoborgbt 
and  in  the  fynod  of  Merfe  and  Tiviotdale.  It  is  of  a  ctrca« 
lar  form,  furrounded  by  the  pariihesof  M.or]biattIe,  Jedbi^ght 
and  Oxnam  in  Scotland,  and  bordering  on  the  oppofitc 
fide  with  the  county  of  Northumberland,  where  the  top 
of  the  Fells,  a  range  of  the  Cheviot  bills,  is  the  march. 
The  pariih,  from  eaft  to  weft,  is  about  nine  or  ten  miles 
long;   and  ip  general  is  about  Gx  miles  broad.    It   may 

be 

*  One  of  the  ferries  between  Caithttefs  and  Orkney,  is  at  ai 
place  called  Hopna. 


fcs  tailed  a  hilly  or  mountiinous.diftrift ;  Wt  the  Mis  ^xm 
gceeQy  and  rarely  incumbered  with  rocks  or  covered  with 
heath.  The  land  is  Wet  and  fpungy;  the  foil  light«  an4 
better  calculated  fbr  grafs  than  grain*  The  air  is  healthy^ 
and  the  people  long  livedo  l^hree  perfons  who  had  refided 
in  the  pariih  from  their  youth,  died  lately,  at  the  advanced  age 
wf  lOO* 

Shfip. — The  principal  circumft-ance  for  which  this  di(h-i(n; 
is  remarkable^  is  the  Kale- water  breed  of  (Iieep,  fo  called  from 
a  fmall  ftream  running  through  the  middle  of  the  parifb.  The 
fheep  are  of  a  moderate  fize,  and  produce  excellent  wool.  Their 
tiumbe^  ufually  amounts  to  1 2,000.  Attempts  have  been  made 
to  improve  the  breed,  by  croiling  with  a  larger  kind,  but  the 
experiments  did  not  fucceed.  Though  the  iheep  became  lar- 
ger, and  the  quantity  of  the  wool  was  increafed,  its  quality 
was  inferior.  The  moft  approved  ftock-farmers,  however, 
have  not  the  Icaft  doubt  that  the  wool  might  be  brought  to 
flill  greater  perfedion  by  proper  management,  and  by  crpifihg 
with  (hecp  nearly  of  the  fame  fize,  but  whofe  wool  is  the 
fincft  poffibie.  The  (heep  not  only  produce  excellent  wool, 
but,  as  the  farmers  term  it,  ihcyfeidnvell^  come  to  a  tolerable 
good  &U  when  fat>  and  are  exquiiite  mutton. 

,t 
PrM&r^ff/i-— The  quantity  of  grain  produced  is  very  in« 
conllderable*  Several  df  the  farms  in  the  higher  part  of  the 
parifli  have  fcarcely  been  ploughed  in  the  memory  of  man. 
The  foil  being  light  and  fandy,  Excellent  turnips  might  be 
railed.  Some  have  been  produced  in  the  parifb  weighing 
above  a6  lbs.  av6irdupolfe.  But  the  farmers  have  not  as  ye; 
fucceedcd  in  railing  this  ufcful  root,  though  they  arc  extreme- 
ly fcnfibie  of  the  great  advantage  that  might  be  derived  from 
V91..  !•  G  if. 


j^  Statiftiad  Accciua 

k,  particular  fat  Ihe  fprlbg.  The  farmers  are  lil  gederlft  tddt 
late  in  lowing  them.  Tn^ips.  cannot  be  raifed  to  a  great 
Aze  in  this  prt  of  thecountrjTy  aolcft  they  are  fown  abotiC  thtf 
end  of  May  or  the  beginning  of  June  ^  but  the  farmen  in.thd 
parifli  of  Hounam  are  conrfiderably  later. 

Sent  of  the  PariJb.^Thc  land-rcn*.  is  L.  2720.  It  has  rifc!t 
more  than  a  third  within  thefe  lad  fifteen  years.  The  valued 
rent  is  L.  914 : 4  :  9.  There  are  2  heritors  in  the  pcurifli,  2 
of  whom  are  refident.  There  are  only  14  farm^,  which,  a£ 
rn  average,  are  from  L.  250  to  L.  300  per  annum*  The 
number  of  flieep  on  a  farm  is  from  50  to  100  fcore. 

State  of  the  Churchy  fe'r. — ^The  walls  of  the  charch  were 
repaired  about  40  years  ago ;  but  the  building  is  f^ill  very  bad, 
axid  worfe  than,  any  place  of  Wor&ip  in  the  neighbourhood « 
The  Duke  of  Roxburgh  is  the  patron.  The  prei'ent  Incum- 
bent is  Mr  James  Rutherfordi  Who  was  admitted  in  March 
1775.  He  ii  married;  has  a  Ton  and  five  daughters.  The 
manfe  was  built  in  1776,  but  is  placed  too  near  the  river,  and 
confequently  in  a  damp  fituation.  The  (^ipend,  from  the  Re* 
volution,  amounted  to  L.  75  in  money,  and  21  bolls  of  vic« 
tual.  Jn  confequence  of  a  late  proeefs  of  augmentation,  the 
Tiftunl  ftipend  is  now  fixed  at  6^  bolls.  There  b  no  pa- 
rochial fund  for  the  poor,  excepting  the  weekly  coUedlions^ 
and  quarterly  aiTeflments  laid  on  the  land-holders  and  thei^ 
tenants^  which  yield,  at  an  average^  aboiut  L.  '^optr  annom. 

Population, — ^Thc  population  oF  the  parifh  has  of  late  con- 
fiderably  diminifhed.  The  return  to  Dr  Wcbfter,  about  46 
years  ago,  was  632.  The  liumbcr  of  inhabitants  is  at  prefcnt 
365.    Of  thcfc^ 

Ohe 


CfUomamm  st 

One  hundred  are  below  ic  years  of  age             ^  ico 

forty-nine  are  above  lo  and  under  20  years           •  49 

Eighty  are  between  20  and  30  years        «...  80 

Qne  hundred  between  30  and  50  years        -          -  xco 

Thirty-fix  above  50  years            «            •           .  36 

Total  number        365 

The  number  of  burials  do  not  exceed  4  each  year.  The 
Vrths  are  fvOm  10  tp  ia,.|exdufive  of  the  foftaries,  who  are 
indeed  bot.  few,  and  have  a  regifter  of  baptifms  of  their 
own.  T)ier€  is  not  even  a  village  in  the  pari£h;  a  few  houfes 
^ear.lbe  phurch  not  defer ving  that  name.  The  number  of 
Virths,  about  a  century  ago,  viz,  from  the  year  1689  to  the 
year  17079 .  feem,  at  an  average*  to  have  been  30  in  the  year. 
From  the  Unioii  of  the  two  kingdoms,  to  about  the  time  of 
the  laft  rebellion,  the  average  number  of  births  feem  to  be 
$0  a  ye^  From  that  time^  the  births  have  gradually  de* 
^eaStd  CO  the  prefent  number  of  10  or  j  2.  The  wages  of 
men  lervants  are  between  L.  7  and  L.  8  ^  of  women  about 
L.  4.  Fifteen  or  twenty  years  ago,  the  wages  of  men  fer- 
vants  were  about  L«  5,  and  of  women  fcarcely  L.  3.  The 
Ifs^esof  tbeibepherds,  who  conftitute  one  half  of  the  parifli, 
confift  of  a  certain  number  of  cow^  and  flieep  to  grafe  on  the 
farm  to  which  they  belong.  The  people  enjoy  a  confiderable 
d^ee  of  the  comforts  of  li/e.  They  are  chearful  and  con- 
tended p  and  there  arc  but  few  poor. 

The  great  decreafe  of  inhabitants,  within  the  lafl:  40  years^^ 
is  evidently  occaiioncd  by  the  too  general  practice  of.  letting 
the  lands  in  great  &rms  i  but  may  be,  in  fome  meafare,  ow« 
ing  to  the  mode  of  agriculture  almoft  univerfally  adopted  in 
the  pariih^  (efpecially  fince  ilieep  and  wool  brought  fo  high 


t  price),  of  -conrerting  the  arable  into  pafture  laod.  'Tk<f 
lands^  50  or  too  years  ago,  were  parcelled  out  into  at  leall 
fear  times  the  prefent  number  of  farms*  As  hte  as  the  year 
27509  five  tenanfs^  with  large  femiltes,  occupied  a  farm  now^ 
rented  by  <^nc  tenafit.  Theve  were  a1(b»  about  tfaefe  times, 
feveral  fmall,  but  proud,  lairds  in  the  parifh.  Their  bnds 
arc  new  lofl  in  the  large  farms,  their  names  extiogaifhed,  and  * 
their  manfions  totally  deftroycd. 

Antiquities. — A  Roman  road,  or  Jlreet  as  it  is  conmooFf 
called,  which  can  be  traced  to  the  ibuth  as  far  a^  Borongh- 
bridge  in  Yorlcfliire,  runs  through  part  of  this  parifbi  it  after* 
wards  pafles  by  St  fiofwell's  Green,  where  the  £iir  is  held,  ami 
then  bends  its  coorfe  towards  the  Lothtans.  The  obly  itkYket 
antiquity  worth  mentioning,  is  an  encampment  at  the  fop  of 
Hounani  Law,  which  is  the  higheft  hill  on  the  border  excepe 
the  Cheviot,  It  was  of  confiderable  extent,  and  within  tiieiil 
few  years  a  large  iron  gate  taken  down  from  the  top  of  thtf 
Law*  was  to  be  fcei^  at  Cefsford  Caftle  belonging  to  the  Duko 
pf  Roxburgh.  There  are  fmaller  encampments  on  tlic  tops 
of  the  other  hills  in  the  neighbourhood,  either  made  by  thft 
Romans  When  they  invaded  this  country,  or  formed  in  tlMS 
courfe  of  the  many  wars  in  which  the  Borderers  of  England 
ahd  Scotland  were  anticntly  involved. 

Fuel. — HHt  principal  difadyantage  under  which  this  parifl| 
labours,  is  the  fcarcity  of  Aicl.  The  common  people  bum  turf 
or  peat.  The  rcfidcnt  heritors  and  the  better  fort  of  firmers 
bring  coal  from  Northumberland,  partly  in  carts,  from  a  place 
caUcd  Etal,  about  20  miles  diftant,  and  partly  00  horfe^backf 
from  ISirciJiopccraig,  The  latter  fpecies  is  abundant,  and  by 
far  the  mo^'t  valuable;  and  it  is  a  fortunate  circumftance  tat 
the  kini^dom  at  lar^?,  that  the  bpft  fpe^ics  of  filcLlboiild  be 

found 


fcond  em  in  the  interior  parts  of  Nortbumberlaiidt  is  fuch 
confiderable  quantities :  It  coald  eafilj  be  conveyed  to  thtt 
fea  by  a  canal ;  and  that  beft  nnrfery.  of  Britifli  feamen,  which 
depends  on  the  Tupplying  the  great  market  of  London  with 
coals,  may  be  thus  prefervedi  even  though  thejr  fiul  |o  the 
pei^hboprhood  of  the  ^aft» 


WVU 


Ztatytkal  Aeemml 

N  U  ^J  B  E  R    V. 
PARISH  OF  KIRKMICHEAI^. 


prom  thi  Cwnmumcatims  tranfmitied  by  the  Rtv.  Dr  BuRGESf 
Minifer  of  that  Parf/b. 


Namfj  Exttntf  and  Boundariis. 


THE  derivation  is  obyioufly  from  St  Michael  to  vhom 
the  Church  was  dedicated*  It  is  iituated  in  the  pref- 
byteiy  of  Lochmaben^  in  the  county  and  Synod  of  Dumfries. 
It  conilfts  of  the  two  parifhcs  of  Kirkmicbael  and  Garrel, 
which  were  united  about  the  year  1663,  or  1664.  The  form 
of  the  united  par'iOies  is  nearly  elliptical}  being  about  tea 
miles  long  and  four  broad  in  the  middle.  It  is  bounded  cm 
the  fouth*caft  by  the  parifh  of  Lochmaben,  on  the  fouth  by 
Tinwald  and  Rirkmahoe,  on  the  weft  by  Clofeburn,  on  the 
north-weft  by  Kirkpatrick  Juxta^  and  on  the  north-eaft  by 
the  parifli  of  Johnfton. 

Stf  f/ir/.— The  upper  or  north-weft  part  of  the  parifli  is  hilly, 
and  chiefly  covered  with  heath,  except  only  a  few  fpots  of  ara- 
ble ground  on  the  fides  of  the  river  Ae,  and  the  rivulet  called 
Glcnkill-burn.  The  lower  or  fouth- caft  part  is  in  general 
plaini  but  interfperfed  with  fcveral  riling  grounds  covered 

with 


M^Itcafh)  ttd  feme  large  peat  mofles  whkh  Supply  ihe-i^* 
habitants  with  fael.  There  are  now  no  open  undiFicM 
commons  s  but  there  is,  in  the  lower  part  of  the  parUh,  a 
^onfideraUe  extent  of  ground  itill  lying  tmimproTed^  Id  the 
cftate  of  Kirkmichael  and  the  barony  of  Rofs^  and  in  tWf 
other  finall  properties,  befides  plaotatioim  there  may  be  150^ 
or  nearly  aoo  acres  of  natur:»l  wood*  There  is  much  marihy 
ground,  which,  if  properly  drained  aoi  cultivatedi  might  tura 
to  good  account. 

Soil  ami  PfWi/rr.^— The  foil  on  the  fides  of  the  riirer  Ae  is 
the  weft,  fouth,  and  fouth-eaft  part  of  the.pacUh  is  very  fer«- 
tile,  producing  wheat,  oats,  and  barley  in  great  plenty4 
the  middle  parts  are  moftly  dry  and  gravelly ;  but  produce 
oats,  barley^  and  peafe  tolerably  well }  the  eaft  fide,  eijpeciaU 
ly  by  the  fide  of  the  river  Kinnell,  is  very  fertile*  In  ordina- 
ry years,  between  6  and  10  thoufand  ftones  of  oat  meal  ar^ 
fold  out  of  the  parifh  after  the  inhabitants  have  been  fuppli- 
cd.  In  the  remarkable  years  1782  and  1783,  the  cropfi 
were  not  only  fufficient  for  the  demands  of  the  inhabitant^ 
but  allowed  a  confiderable  quantity  to  be  fold  in  the  act- 
.jacent  pari/hes.  For  the  lad  thirty  four  years,  no  crop  was  (9 
bad  as  not  to  furniih  the  inhabitants  with  provifion,  and 
leave  a  great  quantity  for  the  market.  The  reafon  of  thi^ 
fteady  fertility  fcems  to  be  the  effeAs  of  the  depth  and  moii^- 
ture  of  the  foil,  which  circumftances,  though  they  .may  re** 
tard  the  harveft  eight  or  ten  days  lat^  than  in  .the  pariflies 
immediately  fouth  of  it,  render  the  ground  lefs  liaUe  to'be 
hurt  in  dry  feafons.  Flax,  l^emp,  and  grafs,  are  rarely  fowa 
in  the  parifh.  The  fowing  feafon  here  ufually  begins  about 
the  loth  of  March  (  and  in  good  years,  the  harveft  is  con«- 
ckdpd  about  the  ift  week  of  OAober  i  but  this  year  having 

bees 


keen  wucoromMf  wM,  the  harveft  was  coadttckS  milf  oA 
the  ttitk  of  NoTembef. 

*'  j£ry  CAmaii^  mii  Difiafis — Vtmx  the  qaality  oF  the  foili 
the  ftnge  of  high  mountains  on  the  noith^weft,  and  riven 
•nd  burnt  which  ran  on  each  fide  and  acf oft  the  parifh,  the 
air  is  neceflarily  moift }  bat,  from  the  rapMity  of  the  rivers^ 
the  afar  it  freqaenttf  changed,  and  fddom  foffered  to  ftag> 
siate«  The  inhabitants  are  remarkably  healthy.  There  have 
been  no  epidemical  difeafes  for  thefe  laft  34  yeafs,  except 
the  fmall  pox  and  meailes,  which  have  never  been  uncom- 
moxAf  mortal*  Rheumatifms  are  the  moft  prevalent  dlf* 
«rders« 

PefulaHan. — ^The  number  of  inhabitants  is  950,  v!2.  50$ 
males,  and  44;  females.  The  proportion  between  batchelors 
and  married  men,  including  widowers,  is  at  one  to  four 
nearly.  There  were  no  records  prior  to  the  year  172^,  and 
the  records  which  were  kept  from  that  time  to  1759^  are  (b 
inaccurate,  that  it  is  impoffible  to  judge  of  population  for- 
merly. About  30  years  ago,  the  number  of  inhabitants  was 
about  730  ^  and  confequently  the  increafe  iince  that  period 
IS  220  fouls.  The  increafe  feems  owing  to  the  divifion  and 
cultivation  of  a  very  large  common,  and  the  improvement  of 
ether  lands.  The  increafe  would  probably  have  been  much 
greater^  had  it  not  been  for  the  practice  of  leading  farms  as  h 
4s  called ;  that  is,  a  farmer  on  one  fann  pollefles  at  the  lame 
time  another  fmaller  farm,  which  is  faid  to  be  Ud  along  with 
the  other.  About  fizty  years  ago,  the  number  of  farms  was 
above  20  more  than  at  prefent ;  and,  within  thefe  frw  years« 
feven  considerable  farms,  that  formerly  had  numerous  fam*^ 
lies  reiiding  on  them,  are  now  M  along  with  otiien,  and 
«re  confequently  uninhabited. 

The 


^  KirkmchaeU '  57 

The  annual  average  number  of  Urths  is  26  \  of  burials  1 8 
or  19;  and  of  marriages  oearlj  6^  aod  each  marriage  pro- 
diicesy  »at  an  average,  5  children.  There  are  at  prcfent  60 
perfons  between  ^p  and  70  years  old  \  and  25  between  70 
and  I  DO.  One  man  in  the  parilh  is  103  years  old.  His  ac« 
count  of  him/elf  \%^  that  he  was  born  in  the  borrowing  days  * 
of  the  year  that  King  William  came  in,  and  that  he  was  bap- 
tifed  in  buUwgs^  {i.  e.  fecretly),  by  a  Prefbyterian  minilter ' 
the  following  fummer,  as  the  Curates  were  then  ia  the  kirks. 
Though  he  is  now  moftly  confined  to  bed,  he  retains  his 
mental  faculties  very  diftinAi  and  three  years  ago  he  wrought 
St  the  harvcft  in  perfefit  health  and  fpirits.  A  weaver  who 
died  a  few  years  ago,  remembered  his  being  feveral  times 
employed  to  ride  King  William's  dragoon  horfes  to  water, 
when  they  were  going  to  Ireland  before  the  battle  at  the 
Soync. 

Otatfaiiom  and  Divi/ion  of  the  InhaUiantu^^Thtrc  are  6q 
hxmeni  the  average  of  perfons  in  each  family  is  flue- 
taating  and  uncertain,  being  ufually  more  in  fummer  than 
in  winter)  there  are  4  blackfmiths}  4  carpenters }  3  mil- 
lersi  4{hoemakers;  6  taylors;  16  weavers  i  3  dogmakers^ 
3  little  merchants  i  i  furgeon,  an  old  man.  Mo  nobility  or 
gentry  refide  an  the  pariih.  There  are  three  fmall  villages 
in  the  parilh;  the  largcft  confiiUng  of  joo  fouls,  and  each  of 
the  other  two  of  about  70  or  75.  They  Utc  on  three  large 
com  Eumt,  on  which,  with  their  own  induftry,  they  fubfift 
pretty  comfortably.  The  people,  in  general,  are  oeconomical 
and  mdttftrious.  Very  few  of  them  have  gone  into  either 
the  army  or  navy  thefe  many  years.  They  enjoy,  in  a  rea- 
fonable  degree,  the  comforts  and  advantages  of  fociety,  and 
Vol.  L  H  feem 

f  That  is,  on  one  of  the  three  laft  days  of  March  i688. 


51  StAityiical  Account 

feem  to  lire  contented.  They  are  in  general  cliaritably  diC^ 
pofed.  The  namber  of  Secedersi  Cameronians,  and  Relief 
people,  young  and  old,  are  about  50.  All  the  reft  are  of  the 
Edablillied  Church.      There  are  no  Catholics  nor  Epifco* 

palians. 

Rent  of  Landi.'^Tht  land  rent  of  the  pariih  amounts  to 
ebout  L.  2300 1  and,  if  to  this  be  added  the  interedi  at  1  o 
fer  cent,  on  L.  2000  of  graiTunis,  the  whole  will  amount  to 
about  L*  2500^    The  valued  rent  is  43 1 5  merks  Scots. 

Church. — ^The  living,  or  ftipcnd,  is  L.  55  :  11 :  i^,  with 
L.  3  :  17  :  9y,  for  defraying  the  expences  of  the  facrament. 
The  glebe  confifts  of  about  1 4  acres  of  high  lying  land,  which, 
with  the  manfe  and  garden,  could  not  be  rated  at  above 
L.  10  a  year.  The  Duke  of  Qncenlberry  is  the  patron  of  the 
old  parifh  of  Kirkmichael,  by  a  charter  from  the  crown ;  but, 
as  the  patronage  of  the  okl  parifli  of  Garrell  is  not  in  that 
charter,  and  as  Garrell  was  a  mcnfal  church  of  the  Arch- 
bifliopric  of  Glafgow,  the  crown  claims  the  right  of  being 
vice-patron  of  the  united  parllh.  Dr  Burgcfs,  the  prcfcnt 
incumbent,  was  prelentcd  to  the  charge  in  1759;  he  is  now 
a  widower,  with  an  only  daughter.  ITie  two  pari(hes  were 
united  in  1660,  but  not  without  fome  difficulty  on  the  part 
pf  the  parifliioners  of  Garrell. 

The  church  of  Garrell  was  buJit  in  1617;  but  Kirkmi^ 
chad  becoming  the  place  of  worfiiip  afrer  the  union,  of  the 
two  parifties,  it  was  fufiered  to  fall  to  ruin.  The  church  of 
Kirkmichael  was  partly  rebuilt,  and  fomewhat  enlarged,  in 
1729,  and  covered  with  flates  in  place  of  heath,  with  which 
it  had  been  formerly  thatched.  It  was  repaired  again,  and 
fgnCderablv  enlarged,  by  a  late  decreet  of  the  Court  of  Scf- 

fiooi 


tf  KtrkmichdeU  Hjg? 

fion,  md  the  chttrch^yard  furrounded  with  a  gdod  ftone  and 
lime  wall,  and  coped  with  free  ftone.  1  he  manfe  was  part- 
ly new  built,  and  partly  enlarged^  in  1729,  and  has  had  two 
or  three  r^airs  fince  that  time ;  but  it  is  fiill  rather  a  cold 
uncomfortable  dweilingt  The  number  of  heritors  is  8  *,  of 
whom  only  2j  of  fmall  property,  refide  in  the  pariih. 

State  of  the  Pr^r.— The  poor  receiving  alms  are  only  5  ; 
who  arc  fupportcd,  partly,  by  weekly  collcftions,  which^ 
with  fmall  fines  exadled  from  delinquents^  and  dues  paid  for 
marriages  and  baptifms  out  of  the  church,  amount,  annuaiiy» 
to  L.  f  4  or  L;  15,  and  partly  by  alms,  in  meal  and  other 
Viftaak,  given  them  from  houfe  to  houic,  or  lent  to  cheai 
when  unable  to  go  about  the  parifh.  There  are  no  legacies 
or  mortifications,  nor  as  yet  is  there  any  need  of  them. 

tn  extraordinary  cafes  of  diftrtfs,  we  have  a  cuftom  which 
deferves  to  be  taken  notice  of  in  a  paper  of  this  kind  \  and 
tliat  is,  when  any  of  the  lower  people  happen  to  be  re- 
duced by  ficknefs^  tofleS|  or  misfortunes  of  any  kind,  a 
friend  is  fent  to  as  many  of  their  neighbours  as  they  think 
needful,  to  invite  them  to  what  thty  call  a  drinking.  This 
drinking  confifts  in  a  little  fmall  beer,  with  a  bit  of  bread  and 
cheefe,  and  fometimes  a  fmall  glafs  of  brandy  or  whiflcy,  pre- 
vioufly  provided  by  the  needy  perfons,  or  their  friends.  The 
goefis  Convene  sit  the  time  appointed,  and,  after  collciEUng  a 
(hilling  a-piece,  and  fometimes  more,  they  divert  thcmfeves 
for  about  a  couple  of  hours,  with  muiic  and  dancing,  and 
then  go  home.  Such  as  cannot  attend  themfelves,  ufually  fend 
their  charitable  contribution  by  any  neighbour  that  choofes 
to  go.  Thcfe  meetings  fometimes  produce  5,  6,  or  7  pounds^ 
to  the  needy  perfon  or  family. 

Woods. 


^a  SMi/iicai  Account 

Wosds.^^Kt  to  timber,  bcfides  a  pretty  large  wood  of  far* 
reft  trees,  with  exteofive  plantations  of  common  firs,  pitch 
firs,  illver  firs,  laburnums,  beeches,  oaks,  planes,  lunes,  &c. 
on  the  eftate  of  Kirkmichael,  there  are  feveral  of  the  rarer 
i'pecies  of  indigenous  trees,  the  Prunus  padus,  i birds  cherrj], 
Viburnam  opulus,  (water  elder),  honeyfuckles,  buUaces,  and 
mountain  aihes. 

In  the  barony  of  Rofs  there  was,  till  within  thefe  laft  feven 
years,  an  extenfive  wood,  called  Knockwood,  confiding  al« 
jnotl  wholly  of  excellent  oaks,  which  was  iokl  by  the  prcient 
proprietor  for  about  80o  guineas  i  and,  unfortunately,  has  not 
ijnce  been  properly  fenced  from  the  flieep  and  cattle  in  the 
neighbourhood. 

As  to  rare  plants,  of  the  lefs  ufeful  kinds,  there  are,  in 
the  parifh,  the  Pyroh  rotundifolia,  (the  winter  green),  An- 
dromeda polifolia,  (the  marlh  ciOus,  or  wild  rofemary),  tke 
Lichen  veatofus,  (or  ftorm  liverwort).  Lichen  venofus,  (pr 
veined  liverwort).  Lichen  burgenfii,  (or  crowned  liverwort), 
with  feveral  others. 

The  number  of  black  cattle,  on  an  average,  9tt  eftimated 
at  between  looo  and  I200j  (heep  from  8000  to  X  0,000; 
and  horfes  at  above  100.  The  wild  quadrupeds  are  foxes 
otters,  badgers,  hares,  wild  catf,  polecats,  erminei,  and  wts- 
fcls.  As. the  cftate  of  Kirkmichael  abounds  both  with  nato- 
ral  wood  and  planting,  there  is,  of  courfe,  a  confiderable  va- 
riety of  bu^ds.  Befides  black  cocks,  moor-fowl,  partridges, 
plovers,  wild  ducks,  teals,  and  fnipes,  there  is  great  plen- 
,ty  of  the  rarer  fpecics  of  birds,  the  land  and  the  water 
rails«  the  quail,  the  miflel  thrtiih,  the  pine  and  the  common 
bullinch,  the  wryneck,  the  goldcn-crcfted  and  the  willow- 


wrens, 


tf  KirkmicbaeU  Bi 

wxcDS^  the  redftait,  the  creeper,  the  flycatcher }  with  the  doD^ 
the  grej,  the  bam,  and  the  hprncd  owls. 

Of  migratory  birds,  there  are  the  cuckow,  the  goatfuckei^y 
the  fwift,  the  hoofe  and  window  fwallow,  the  fand  martia  or 
river  fwallow,  the  curIeW|  called  here  the  vjbaup^  the  bp* 
wing,  plover,  or  tewit,  the  king's  fii^icr,  the  fea  lark,  thtf 
fandpiper,  the  greater  and  lefler  terns  or  fea  fwallows  \  with 
gulls,  mewS|  ihelldrakes,  divers,  &c« 

The  fand  martin  ufaally  appears  here  about  the  middle,  or 
towards  the  end  of  March,  and  departs  about  the  ift  of  Sep* 
tember ;  the  cuckow  about  the  aoth  of  April,  and  departs 
about  the  iftof  Auguft}  the  curlew  and  lapwing  about  the 
middle  of  March,  and  depan  about  the  middle  of  Auguft  i 
the  houfe  and  window  fwallows  about  the  aoth  of  April,  and 
depart  from  the  4th  to  the'30th  of  September ;  the  fwift  and 
goatfucker  arrive  about  the  commencement  of  continued  day- 
light, (1  /.  here,  about  the  lothof  May),  and  depart  about  the 
end  of  it,  in  the  fecond  week  of  Auguft ;  the  king's  fifher 
comes  up  the  rivers  about  Chriftmas,  and  ufually.ftays  about 
three  or  four  weeks ;  the  fandpiper,  fea  lark,  and  mew,  vifit 
and  ftay  through  the  whole  of  the  breeding  leafon  ;  indeed, 
the  gull,  mew,  and  (heldrake,  are  often  here  in  the  winter, 
when  the  weather  is  mild. 

With  regard  to  mineral  fprings  (—there  are  fevend  veins 
of  iron  ftone  and  ocher  in  every  quarter  of  the  parilh,  and 
confequently  many  fprings  of  chalybeate  water;  but  none 
of  a  ftrength  fo  remarkable  as  to  be  any  way  noticed  or  fre- 
quented. There  are  two  lochs,  or  lakes,  in  the  parifli,  viz. 
one  towards  the  head,  of  about  two  or  three  acres  in  extent, 
afparently  very  deepi  but  without  £i(h  of  any  fdrtj  and  an- 
other 


"ۤ  Siaii/iical  JccotM 

Mother  near  the  foot,  containing  ten  or  twelve  acres^  in  whidk 
there  are  a  great  number  of  pike  and  eel,  but  not  fo  nome- 
reus  as  to  ferve  the  neighbouring  inhabitants  as  an  article 
of  food. 

Price  of  Prciftfions.'^Abont  40  or  45  years  ago,  a  beef  cow, 
%hich  at  prelent  cofts  from  L.  5.  to  L.  6.  and  fometimes 
'md^i  could  have  been  purchafed  for  L.  2 : 2 :  Oj  or  L.  2  :  i  o  :  o, 
at  the  utmoft.  A  fat  ewe  or  weddcr,  that  fells  now  at  1 2  s. 
or  14  s.  could  have  been  bought  thcil  for  5  s.  or  6  s*;  and 
Veal  and  lamb  in  proportion.  Pork  was  little  ufed  here  till 
.  Within  thcfc  laft  20  or  .30  years;  it  is  now  very  generally  catcts, 
and  fells  at  3  d.  3I  d.  and  4d.  the  pound,  according  to  its 
goodnefs,  tnd  the  quantity  that  happens  to  be  in  the  market. 
Geefe  were  then  to  be  had  at  8  d.  or  9  d.  a-piece ;  ducks  at 
3  d.  or  4  d. }  hens  at  4  d. ;  chickens  at  i^  d.  and  2  d.  j  but- 
ter at  4  d*  the  pound,  equal  to  24  ounces  averdupois  weight ; 
cheefe  at  2  d.  per  pound ;  oats  from  i  s.  to  i  s.  3  d.  the  Dura- 
fries  peck,  which  is  equal  to  the  Winchefter  bufhel  *,  bear  aqd 
barley  from  i  s.  2  d.  to  it.  6  d.  Wheat  was  feldom  fown 
here  at  that  period.  At  prefent,  all  thefe  prices  are  greatly 
locreafedy  and  fome  bf  them  confiderably  more  than  dou- 
bled. 

Price  of  Lahur. — ^The  general  wages  for  day  labourers  b 
hufbandry,  and  other  work,  is  8  d.  with  viAuals,  or  i  s.  with- 
out  them  \  carpenters,  bricklayers,  and  maibns,  have  ufualiy 
I  s«  6  d.  or  I  s.  8  d. ;  and  taylors  8  d.  and  their  viduals.  In 
general,  the  wages  now  paid  to  workmen  of  every  defcription 
are  double  what  they  were  20  or  30  years  ago.  The  wa- 
ges of  male  fervants,  about  30  years  ago,  were  from  L.  3  to 
L.  4  a  year  *,  at  prefent  they  are  between  L.  7  and  L.  8,  and 
fome  ftill  higher :  Maid  fervants,  at  the  above  period^  had 

from 


of  KirkmchaeU  <f  ^ 

fitnn  L.  1 :  15 :  o  to  L.  2 : 5  :  o  a  year ;  thej  now  get  from 
Jl  2  :  10 :  0  to  L.  4 :  zo :  o. 

AntiqmiUs. — ^There  are  feveral  indiftlnft  remains  of  an* 
tient  fortificationsi  but  no  traditions  about  any  other  than 
a  fmall  fort  in  the  Knock  Wood,  called  Wallace's  Houfe^ 
faid  to  have  been  thrown  up  by  Sir  William  Wallace,  after 
he  had  flain  Sir  Hugh  of  Moreland  and, five  of  his  men^  at 
a  place  fiill  named,  from  that  event,  the^  cwrfes^  u  e.  the 
^  (orpfcs ;  and  where  there  are  two  or  three  large  ftones, 
which  feem  to  have  been  fet  up  14  remembrance  of  fpme  fuch 
tranfa£lton. 

There  are  fome  fmall  tumuli,  or  cairns ;  but  none  of  them 
have  been  opened,  nor  have  their  contents  been  examined. 

There  are  feveral  barrows,  or  burraos,  as  they  are  called 
here.  They  feem  to  have  been  intended  for  folding  cattle 
at  night :  And  it  is  obfervable,  that,  when  one  of  thefe  bar- 
rows is  on  one  farm,  there  is  always  one  oppofite  to,  and 
within  call  of  it,  upon  another.  This  has  probably  been  done 
with  an  intention,  tbac^  in  cafe  of  any  inroad  from  the  £ng« 
Ii(h  Border,  whoever  of  the  herds  or  keepers  firft  obferred 
the  enemy,  might  give  notice  to,  and  be  ready  to  affift^  the 
other,  either  to  defend,  or  carry  off  the  cattle  .to  places  of 
greater  fafcty. 

The  only  Roman  works  in  the  parifli  are,  a  branch  of 
the  great  road  that  led  from  Netherby  in  Cumberland  to  the 
chain  of  forts  built  by  Lollius  Urbicus,  between  the  Forth 
and'the  Clyde,  that  can  ftill  be  traced  through  a  mois,  and 
feems  to  have  terminated  at  a  caftellum,  which  is  now  the 
minister's  garden,  and  of  which  two  fides  remain  ftill  very 
diftinft. 

About 


64  Siatijiical  Jccaimt  * 

Aboot  fix  yean  zgp,  there  was  found,  ia  a  fmall  piece  of 
peat  mofk^  near  the  line  of  the  road  above  mentioned,  a  prettjr 
large  pot^  of  a  fort  of  bafe  copper,  and  a  decanter  of  the 
fiune  metal,  of  the  ihape  and  iize  of  our  white  ftone  quart 
decanters,  with  three  feet,  aboot  i  \  inch  long.  1  hej  were 
both  fent  by  Dr  Burgeft  to  the  Society  of  Antiquaries  at 
Edinburgh,  and  are  in  their  muieum.  They  were  thought 
to  be  Roman.  They  might  have  been  thrown  into  the  place 
where  they  were  found  when  the  Romans  left  the  caftelium^ 
perhaps  purfued  by  the  natives,  and  obliged  to  abandon  (bme 
of  their  heavy  baggage,  to  expedite  their  flight. 


NUM* 


NUMBElt    VL 
PARISH  OF  SPROUSTOM4 

ij  the  tUv.  Mr  RoBBRf  TuftNAaLL* 


iiiuathn  and  Surface* 
^TIHIS  parifh  is  fituated  in  the  county  of  Tiviotdaley  pttt^ 
X  bytery  of  KeUb^  and  Tynod  of  MerTe  and  Tivlotdale. 
It  IS  about  fizEngUfl^  miles  long,  and  (bur  broad;  being 
bounded  by  the  parilh  of  Carham,  in  England,  and  by  Tet- 
holm,  Linton,  Kelfo,  Ednam,  and  Eccles,  in  Scotland. .  That 
part  of  it  which  lies  by  the  iide  of  the  Tweed  is  flat,  and 
liable  to  be  overflowed  %  and  the  com  is  frequently  f#ept  off 
the  ground.  The  fouthem  part  of  the  parilh  is  higher  ground^ 
though  not  hilly.  The  foil^  by  the  fide  of  the  Tweed,  is  ex* 
cdlent,  and  very  fertile  t  No  part  of  the  pariOi,  however,  h 
barren* 

Cultwathn^  Produce^  and  Rent.—Catn  of  all  kinds,  clottif^ 
rye^gfafs,  flax,  turnip,  cabbage,  and  moft  forts  of  garden  ve* 
getables,  are  raifed  in  this  parifh.  Oxen  and  fheep  are  fed 
on  turnip  with  confiderable  ph>fit.  The  magnitude  of  farms^ 
which  of  late  have  been  increafing,  »  fepiited  a  grievance*  A 
farm  was  lately  let  at  L.  1  :72operacre.  The  valued  rent  of  the 
pari(h  is  L«  13,263 : 6 :  S  Scots  1  the  real  rent  is  about  L.  43^0 
Sterllog.    There  are  four  poflcflbrs  of  landed  property ;  but 

VoL«X  I  none 


Gb  Statijilcal  Account 

none  of  them  refide  here.  Agriculture  is  greatly  improved. 
More  corn  is  raifeJi  and  au>re  ctf  tic  and  ihecp  are  fed  for  the 
marketi  than  formerly. 

Church  nftd  Sliptful.^Thc  church  and  manfe  were  built 
about  ten  years  ago.  The  ftipcnd,  including  the  glebe^  mzj 
be  valued  at  L.  1 2o.     The  Duke  of  Roxburgh  is  patron. 

Population, — ^The  populatioUi  as  is  thought,  has  not  varied 
for  thele  forty  y«ars  paft.  There  are  many  perfons  between  70 
and  ICO  years  of  age.  The  number  of  foub  in  the  pariih  is 
fuppofed  to  be  about  looo.  It  is  probable  that  the  popula* 
tion  has  diminifhed  conflderably  fince  the  year  17 14;  and  the 
union  of  farms  is  perhaps  the  caufe  of  this  diminution.  The 
annual  average  of  births,  from  1714  to  1750,'is  37  ^  from 
1750  to  1790,  is  30.  The  moft  numerous  clafs  of  artificers 
are  weavers ;  there  are  30  in  the  village  of  Sproufton ;  8  ma- 
fons,  'and  4  carpenters.  There  are  about  (So  feceders  in  the 
parifh. 

Pcor.— -The  annual  average  of  the  poor,  from  1737  ^ 
1758,  is  33;  and  from  1758  to  1790,  is  18.  ITie  average 
of  the  monthly  diftributions  to  them,  during  the  firft  of  thefe 
periods,  (from  1737  to  1758)  is  L.  3  :  18 :  10;  and  the  ave- 
rage during  the  laft  is  L.  3  :  19 : 1.  The  oldeft  records  that 
could  be  found  of  the  poors  rates,  begin  in  the  year  1737* 
The  mode  of  providing  for  the  poor  in  the  fhire  of  Tiviot- 
dale,  and  the  only  legal  mode,  though  not  univerfally  obier- 
ved,  in  Scotland,  is  this :  The  heritors,  ^ith  the  minxfter  and 
elders,  have  the  power  of  making  up  a  lift  of  the  poor,  and 
aiTefling  for  their  monthly  maintenance.  The  afTefTment  con- 
tinues fix  months  I  the  heritors  paying  the  one  half,  and  the 
tenants  the  other,  according  to  their  refpcftive  valued  rents. 

Perfons 


Of  Sproujion.  6j 

TctCons  who  become  objefls  of  charity,  from  Hckncfs,  or  other 
caufes^  are  relieved  by  the  feilion  ^ut  of  the  weekly  collec« 
tioDS«  The  poor  live  in  their  own  houfes.  The  cffcfts  of  .'11 
the  poor  carolled  are  inventoried,  and  fojd  at  their  deceafe, 
which  i$  a  check  againft  impofitions. 

Price  ofProvt/toni  and  Labour. — 'Ihe  price  of  all  kinds  of 
provifioos,  efpecially  of  oatmeal^  has  greatly  increafed ;  and, 
if  potatoes  had  not  been  introducedi  the  price  of  oatii  eal 
muft  have  been  ftill  liigher  There  is  a  coniiderable  advance 
in  the  wages  of  all  fervants.  Men,  during  harveft,  receive 
L.  1:4:0,  and  women  L,  i,  with  diet }  a  man  hired  for  a 
day  I  s. ;  and  a  woman  10  d.  Forty  years  ago,  a  man's  wa- 
ges, in  harveft,  was  only  8  d  and  a  woman's  6  d.  a-day^.  A 
cottage  muft  give  the  &rmer  one  reaper.  A  labourer  gets 
1  s.  a-day  in  lummeri  and  lod.  in  winter.  His  wages  are 
fufficicnt  to  enable  him  to  bring  up  a  family.  Taylors  wages 
are  lately  advanced  from  4  d.  to  6  d.  and  8  d.  a*day. 

Ff/b. — ^The  Tweed,  which  runs  along  the  north  fide  of 
this  parilh,  abounds  with  falmon.  They  fell  high  in  the 
fpnijg,  the  greateft  part  of  them  being  fent,'by  Berwick,  to 
London  $  but  the  prices  vary  confiderably  j  and,  in  fummer, 
they  are  tolerably  cheap.  There  is  a  projeft  for  carrying  a 
canal,  along  the  Tweed,  from  Berwick  to  Kelfoi  or  even 
higher. 

Mifcellaneous  Ohftrvattons — Sea  fowls  appear  here  ^n  great 
numbers  in  the  fpring,  about  feed- time;  they  follow  the 
plough,  and  are  thence  called  fted-birds.  Coal,  the  only  fuel 
uied  here,  is  brought  from  England.  The  roads  are  bad, 
owing,  probably,  to  the  ftatute  labour  being  commuted.  It 
is  the  general  opinion  that  turnpikes  have  improved  the  coun< 

XI 


69  Stati/ttcal  AcMoU 

dy.  Onlf  one  filicide  has  been  committed  in  the  conrfe  of 
inore  than  forty  yean.  The  people,  in  general,  are  contented 
imd  induftrioas;  (heir  condition,  however,  would  be  melio- 
rated, if  they  had  better  houfes :  Their  manners  and  cut 
toms  remain  the  fame  as  formerly  \  but  drel^  and  the  mode 
9f  living,  arc  much  improved* 


NUM. 


Hf  Lmifwmacus^  6^ 


N  U  M  B  E  R     VII. 

PARISH   OF  LONGFORMACUS. 

Bj  the  Rev,  Mr  Selbt  Ord. 


Name,  Situation,  and  Surface. 

IT  b  uncertadn  whence  the  name  of  this  parifli  is  derived. 
It  is  in  the  fhire  of  Berwick,  prefbytery  of  Dunfe^  and 
ijnod  of  Slelib.  It  is  twelve  miles  long  and  fix  broad  $  fur- 
nninded  by  the  parUhes  of  Dunfe,  Langton,  Greenlaw,  Weft- 
mtherj  Granfliawsy  and  Abbey  St  Bethun's.  It  is  qaite  hilly; 
being  in  the  midft  of  that  ridge  of  hills  which  divides  the  flat 
and  rich  lands  of  Eaft  Lothian  from  the  beaatiful,  well  in- 
dofed,  and  highly  cultivated  plains  of  Berwickfhire*  The 
greateft  part  of  the  furface  is  covered  with  heath,  eaten  by 
Jinali  Uack  ftced  iheep,  which,  when  removed  to  good  paf- 
tures,  may  be  fo  fatened  as  to  weigh  lo  or  la  pounds  the  i 

quarter*  j 


Culthmtim  and  Produee.— The  lands  near  the  rivers  Whit- 
adder  and  Dye,  have  been  improved  by  lime  brought  from 
Zaft  Lothian  at  the  diftance  of  17  miles,  and  have  been  made 
to  raife  oats,  barley,  peafe,  rye-grais,  red  and  white  clover, 
and  turnip.  But  the  farmers  are  prevented  from  great  exer- 
tions by  the  high  renu,  the  great  expence  of  manure,  the 
badnds  of  the  roadS|  and  the  diftance  of  markets.    The  in- 

creafe 


^9  Siatl/lUal  Actctif4 

creafe  of  corn  is  from  two,  or  even  one,  to  iix.  The  preleot 
land  rent  amounts  to  L.  1700  a- year.  There  are  9  heritors. 
The  patron  of  the  pariih,  Mr  Home,  is  the  onlj  refiding 
one* 

Climate  and  Population, — The  air  is  dry,  cold,  ai)d  piercing. 
The  only  difeafes  are  rheumatifms  and  cutaneous  diibrders, 
which  leem  to  be  occaiioned  by  poor  food,  damp  houfes.  and 
want  of  cl^nlineis.  Population,  owmg  to  large  farms,  to  the 
tenants  reiidmg  at  a  didance,  and  to  part  of  the  lands  being 
tiirned  entirely  into  pafiure  for  (hecp,  is  on  the  decreaie. 
The  number  of  fouls  is  452 ;  of  families.  loo}  of  perfons  from 
16  to  60  years  of  age»  112.  The  number  oi  births,  in  thefe 
laft  fix  years,  is  47  i  of  marriages,  21  j  oi  deaths,  27*  Maoy 
people  bom  in  this  parifh  being  obliged  to  feek  employment  in 
other  parifhes,  all  who  die  in  the  parifh  not  being  buried  in 
it,  and  thofe  only  regiAered  that  are  buried  here,  the  deaths 
bear  but  a  fmall  proportion  to  the  births. 

PooTf  and  Wages. — ^Therc  arc  5  families,  confifting  of  13 
perfons,  upon  the  poors  roll.  They  receive  L.  15  fer  anmtmi 
which  is  raKed  by  weekly  coUeAioos  at  the  church,  and  oc- 
caGonal  cefs  upon  the  lands.  A  labourer's  wages  is  i  s.  a- 
day  \  mafons  and  joiners,  i  s.  \  taylors,  6  d.  and  their  meals. 
Houfehold  men  fervants  wages  are  6  or  7  pounds  per  annum, 
and  women,  3  and  4  pounds. 

Mifcellaneous  Ob/ervaticns.'^Thc  fiipend  of  this  parifh  is 
L.  100.  There  are  about  70  horfes,  500  fcore  of  (heep,  and 
aoo  head  of  cattle.  There  are  favourable  appearances  of 
copper  ore.  Attempts  w^re  made  to  work  it  a  few  years  ago ; 
but  patience  and  perfeverance  were  wanting.  Some  cart 
loads  of  ore  were  dug  up  in  making  a  road :    The  prefent 

miniftcr 


X)f  Longformacus^  .  71 

minifter  fmcltcd  fomc  of  it,  and  found  it  very  rich.  There 
are  two  hills  of  a  beautiful  (hape,  known  by  the  nanie  of  the 
Dirrington  Laws.  There  is  a  heap  of  ftoncs  at  a  place  called 
ByrecUugh^  80  yards  long,  25  broad,  and  6  high.  1  hey  were 
collcfted,  probably,  by  fome  army,  to  perpetuate  a  viftory,  or 
fome  other  remarkable  event.  The  moffes  and  moors  in  the 
parifli  fuppiy  the  inhabitants  with  fuel ;  but  tome  coal  is 
brought  from  a  diftance.  The  people,  accuftomcd  to  the 
paftoral  life  in  their  early  years,  arc  rather  inclined  to  indo- 
lence and  cafe.  Their  condition  might  be  improved  by  the 
introduAion  of  manufadhires. 


NUM. 


7»  Stafifiicai  Acaum 

NUMBER    VUL 
PARISH  OF  LAUDER* 

By  tbi  Riv.  Dr  James  Ford. 


\ 


Name,  Situation,  and  Surface* 

THE  name  of  Lauder  feems  to  be  of  Celtic  original,  de- 
rived from  the  word  iadty  which  iignifies  the  paflGigCt 
or  courfe,  and  fonietimes  the  mouth,  of  a  river ;  and  it  is  li<* 
terally  applicable  to  the  fituation.  It  is  fituated  in  the  high- 
eft  part  of  the  Merfe,  or  Berwickfliire.  It  extends  about  eight 
miles  from  north  to  ibuth ;  but  the  bulk  of  the  parifh  is  con- 
tained in  four  miles,  upon  the  ftrath  of  Lauder  water.  It  is 
bounded  by  the  pariflies  of  Channelkirk,  Stow,  Melrofe, 
EaflftoD,  Legerwood,  and  Weftruther.  The  (oil  is  rather 
light  and  fandj.  It  is  in  general  fertile;  and,  of  late,  has  beea 
highly^cultivated.  The  ground  rifes  gradually  from  the  riTcr, 
on  each  fide,  to  hills  of  a  moderate  height,  and  moftly  green. 
They  are  covered  with  a  mixture  of  heath  and  juniper,  which 
makes  excellent  iheep  pafture. 

Cultivation f  Produce,  Farms,  Isfc, — ^Thcre  may  be  about  nine 
fquare  miles  in  corn  and  hay  grafs.  Sown  grafs,  for  pfture 
and  for  hay,  is  much  cultivated*  The  hay  fells  from  4  d.  to 
7  d.  per  ftone,  according  to  the  demand.  Good  crops  of 
wheat  have  been  produced  \  bat  this  grain  is  thought  to  be 

toe 


^J  Lauder.  73 

^  exKauftiog  for  the  Toil.  Excellent  oaits  a«d  barley  are 
jaifcd,  and  exported  weekly  to  Dalkieth  amd  Edinburgh, 
tfpccially  oats  and  oatme^.  The  foH  produces  flax  in  great 
perfection  j  but,  at  prcfent,  it  is  only  cultivated  for  the  ufe 
of  the  inhabitants*  Turnip  and  potatoes  are  reared  to  a  great 
extent;  and  fiieep  and  oxen  fed  iiere  with  much  advantage. 
The  average  rent  of  farms  is  from  L.  50  io  L.  150  p€r  annum. 
In  the  neighbourhood  of  Lauder,  the  land  lets  from  20  to  40 
(hillings  per  acre ;  but  the  average  rent  of  arable  land  is  from 
5  to  io  fluUings  per  acre.  Since  the  late  improvements  in 
huftandry  commenced,  fome  farms  have  been  divided  into 
two -or  three,  and  fome  fnialler  ones  have  been  united,  acr 
cording  to  the  ikill  or  ability  of  the  tenant.  There  is  little 
land  inclofed,  except  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Lord  Lauder- 
dale's lioufe.  AU  are  convinced  of  the  advantages  of  this 
pra£lice^  and  it  will  probably  advance  with  confiderable  ra- 
pidity. There  was  formerly  abundance  of  natural  wood, 
efpecially  on  the  low  grounds,  and  by  the  fide  of  the  river. 
It  was  long  ago  wed  out  \  but  the  proprietors  are  beginning  to 
plant  again. 

MifiH^a/j,  £5*tf— There  jp-c  fome  copper  mines,  but,  it  is 
fuppofed,  not  fufficicntly  rich  to  defray  the  expence  of  work- 
ing, Moor-ftone  is  cvcrj  where  to  be  met  with.  It  is  ufed 
for  incloilng,  and  is  very  proper  for  the  purpoie,  being  large 
and  flat,  l^e  flate  found  here  is  of  an  inferior  quality.  Ad- 
der-ftones,  arrow  points  of  flint,  commonly  called  elf  or  fairy 
Jlones^  are  to  be  icen  here;  and,  in  the  neighbourhood,  Jlones 
of  fanciful  (hapes,  as  of  fnails^  worms,  and  other  animals.  They 
arc  found  after  heavy  rains,  by  which  they  are  wafhed  out  of 
iliixT  beds. 

^A^.^The  number  of  fiieep  produced  and  fed  in  this  pa-* 
Vol.  L  K  rilh, 


74  StatifiUal  Aaatmt 

ri(h,  ts  fbppofed  to  a0K>unt  to  io,ooo.  The  breed  is,  of  kte^ 
conGderably  improved.  Taking  the  produce  of  this,  and  of 
the  neignbouring  parifhes.  into  cooCderationithe  town  of  lau^ 
der  feems  to  be  one  of  the  beft  fituated  places  in  Scotland  fer 
the  eftabliihment  of  a  woolen  mano£i£h2re.  Turnips  arc 
.much  tultivated  for  feeding  (heep ;  but,  iince  the  late  game 
aAy  the  hares  hive  become  fo  numerous  as  greatly  to  injure 
the  crops  of  that  valuable  article. 

Populatlon.r-Thcrt  are  at  prefent  about  looo  (buls  in  the 
pariQi.  Its  population  has  been  increafing,  particularly  fince 
an  eafy  communication  was  opened  between  difierent  parts  of 
the  country  by  means  of  turnpiipe  roads.  1500  of  the  inha- 
bitants are  above  i  o  years  of  age.  About  1000  of  thele  re- 
iide  in  the  country  part  of  the  parifh,  and  the  iiemainder  in 
the  borough  of  Lauder.  The  annual  average  of  marriages  is 
about  8  or  10;  that  of  births  and  deaths  about  30.  £ack 
marriage,  at  an  average,  produces  5  children.  The  people, 
in  genera},  live  long ;  Many  have  fiicvived  90,  and  fonoe  even 
100,  during  the  incumbency  of  the  prefent  minifter.  Some 
are  below  middle  (Mature,  many  above  it ;  and  the  fize  of  not 
a  few  is  upwards  of  fix  feet.  The  people  are,  generally,  ftrong 
and  healthy.  There  are  about  40  farmers  in  the  pari£b,  an^ 
a  confiderable  number  of  artifts  in  the  borough  and  country* 
There  is  in  this  pariih  a  feceding  mipifter;  though  the  num« 
ber  of  feceders  is  but  fmall.  There  are  two  writers,  and  two 
furgeons.  As  this  parifb,  when  Dr  Wcbfter  made  his  in- 
quiry, contained  only  17 14  fouls,  it  has  increafed^  witl^a  4^ 
years,  ^bout  300  in  population* 

Churchy  and  Stipend. — ^The  church  of  Lauder  was  original- 
ly a  chapel  of  eafe  to  Channel-kirk,  or  Childrens  Kirk,  being 
dedicated  to  tbe  boly  lanocents.    At  the  RefocmatioQj  JLau- 

der 


^  Laudei^.  75 

46t  ^rlt  mUde  t  t^Mchial  charge.  At  firft,  the  church  ftood 
ta  the  north  fide  of  the  town,  fronting  Lauder  fort ;  and  it 
^ras  in  this  old  chiitth  that  the  Scotch  nobility  were  aflem- 
Ued,  when  they  .deteiteiiied  to  make  a  prtfoner  of  James  III.  $ 
Bod  the  houfe  in  which  he  was  feized  is  ftill  ftanding.  The 
iBpend,  including  the  glebe,  is  between  L.  90  and  L.  100  per 
%i  half  moneyi  half  vifhiaL 


Pmt.— The  number  of  poor  in  this  pari(h  is  about  30. 
Their  maintenance  amounts  to  about  L.  ^o  per  annum  s  ari* 
fing  from  afleflmentsi  Sunday's  colledions,  and  dues  for  lend- 
ing the  pall^  called  in  Scotland  the  fmrt-cUib. 

Wages. — The  wages  of  a  country^ervant  is  from  5  to  7 
pounds  per  annum  t  6f  labourers  from  9  d.  to  i  s.  aday  1  of 
carpenters,  mafons^  and  gardeners,  about  i  s.  3  d.  The  price 
of  every  kind  6f  labour  is  greatly  increafed;  reapers  wages  are 
almoft  douMed.  The  wages  of  women  fcrvants  have  advan- 
ced from  20  to  40  {hillings^  a^/MTOT ;  and  of  fuch  as  work 
at  turnipsi  and  milk  ewes,  to  L.  3  per  half  year. 

JUsJie/bnemis  Obfirvatlens. -^The  air  is  pure  and  healthy  ^ 
and  this  place  has  been  often  called  the  Scotch  Montpelier. 
The  land  rent  of  the  pariib  may  be  about  L<  6coo  Sterling. 
There  are  fix  heritors  of  rank,  only  one  of  whom  refides  in 
the  parifli.  The  number  of  feuers,  or  fmalier  pofiefibrs  of 
land,  is  confiderable.  There  are  about  100  ploughs,  and 
many  of  them  of  modem  conftruAion. 

For  30  years  paft,  much  improvement  in  education,  man* 
tiers,  and  the  mode  of  living,  as  well  as  in  feveral  other  parti- 
cvlars,  has  been  introduced  into  this  part  of  the  country.  In 
a  courfe  of  about  10  miles,  between  louder  and  Tweed,  the 

river 


I* 

76  SiatyUcd  Auomt 

mcr  turns  between  20  and  y^  miila,  fomeof  whic&  hx^ 
been  lately  ercOed  for  the  purpofe  of  grinding  barley  aad 
wheat.  There  are  now  tompike,  parochial  roads*  and 
bridges  made,  and  kepf  in  good  repair,  by  the  toUrbar  mo- 
ney, and  ftatute- labour  comoiuted  into  money  according  to 
the  number  of  fervams  and  horfes.  The  turnpike  roads  hate 
been  the  caufe  of  many  other  improvements.  Coal,  lime, 
and  the  cftabli(hment  of  a  woden  mannia^rc,  arc  want- 
ing. The  people  are  generally  a£Hvc  atid  fpirited,  and  have 
always  been  ready  to  engage  in  labour  of  any  kind :  Many  of 
them  are,  at  prcfent,  both  in  the  army  and  navy.  The  poor, 
in  general,  confider  themfeWes  aUe  to  biing  up  a  family  with 
an  income  of  about  L.  1 2  Sterhng. 

In  1782,  and  1783^  the  fituation  of  tj\e  inhabitants  wai 
truly  deplorable.  It  was  the  end  of  December  before  the 
harveft  was  finifhed,  after  a  great  part  of  the  crop  was  dc- 
ftroyed  by  fro(t  and  fnow.  None  of  the  farmers  could  pay 
their  rent ;  fome  of  them  loft  from  L.  200  to  L.  500  Ster- 
ling. The  country,  however,  was  greatly  relieved  by  the  im* 
portatit>n  of  white  peafe  from  America.  Many  found  great 
advantage  in  feeding  their  cattle  with  furze  or  whins,  beat 
into  a  ma(h.  The  poor  were  relieved  by  the  expenditure  of 
the  public  funds,  which  fupplied  them  with  grain  at  a  mo- 
derate price.  There  Were  likewife  feveral  liberal  oontribu- 
.  tions  for  this  purpofe.  But  the  fituation  of  this  part  of  the 
country,  and,  it  is  believed,  of  all  the  fouth  of  Scotland ^  was 
ftill  worfe  in  f  766 :  In  confequence  of  a  parching  drought 
during  the  whole  fummer,  two  thirds  of  the  cattle  wertf 
flaughtercd  nt  Martinmas,  and  fold  at  3  farthings  a  pountL 
Many  of  thofe  that  remained  died  at  the  ftall  in  the  fubfc- 
quent  fpring,  after  having  confuted  all  the  flraw  that  could 
be  provided  for  them.  Bear  ftraw  fold  at  i  s.  6  d.  per  thre ave. 

Prior 


t^rio^  to  ^St^  period^  zK>t  above  four  or  five  foiall  beeves  were 
kiUe4  in  Louder  market  at  Martinmas  Siace  that  time^  ix| 
confequence  of  the  cultivation  of  turnip  and  grafs,  ttiere  hag 
been  plenty  of  the  bcft  beef  and  mutton  through  the  whole 
year. 

Peat  and  turf  were  formerly  uf^d  }iere  for  fuel;  but,  fince 
the  turnpike  roads  were  made,  coal,  though  tranfported  fromi 
the  diftdnce  of  1 5  miles,  is  ufed  for  that  purpofe  both  in  town 
and  country.  The  farmers  find  it  moft  for  their  advantage 
to  bring  home  liniie  in  the  fummer  feafon,  and  coal  when  rdi* 
turning  from  Edinburgh  or  Dalkieth  markets:  Thefe  two, 
with  Kelfo  and  Haddington,  are  the  markets  neareft  this  pc^ 
rifli. 

Anttquitia.^^h  confiderable  quantity  of  Spanifh,  Scotch'^ 
and  Englifh  coins,  have  been  dug  up.  The  antiquity  of  the 
firft  rftcnds  no  farther  than  the  age  of  Elifabcth.  The  Scotch 
and  EngliOi  belong  to  the  age  of  Edward  Longfh'auks,  and 
Alexander  I.  of  Scotland  •,  and  fome  of  them  arc  of  a  later 
date.  The  miniftcr  of  Lauder  is  in  pofleffion  oF  fome  of 
thefe  coins,  and  ai(o  of  fcveral  Roman  coins,  whofe  infcrip- 
tions  are,  Lucius  FlaminiuSj  Julius  Caefar^  l2tc.  There  arc 
many  Piclilb  and  Scotch  encampments  in  this  parifh  and  the 
rieighbourhood.  All  of  them  are  of  a  round  or  oval  figure, 
and  are  called  rings  by  the  common  people.  The  Roman 
encampments  Were  fquare  or  reftangular  ;  but  none  df  them 
are  to  be  feen  in  this  part  of  the  country.  The  largcft  Scotch 
or  rtdilh  encamp.nent  in  the  parifh  is  on  Tollis-hill,  or 
Tuliius-hiU.  It  is  on  the  road  between  Lauder  and  Had« 
Kington,  and  is  fuppofed  to  have  got  its  name  from  a  Roman 
army  palling  through  this  country,  and  cummandcd  by  aTuU 
lius.     Many  tumuli  are  to  be  feen  in  Lauder  moor,  on  the 

old 


)^  ^tattjticai  Actouni 

old  rotd  to  Mdrole,  where  it  ii  probable  fbine  Initles  !uit6 
been  fbttght,  as  fragments  of  fwords,  bows',  and  arrows,  art 
Ibund  there  %  but  no  record  or  tradition  is  known  concemio^ 
them.  The  arrows  -were  pointed  with  flint-ftdne,  uperin^ 
from  ike  janAore,  about  an  Inch  long. 

Lauder  fort. — ^Towards  the  north  of  the  tower  of  Lander, 
by  the  river  fide,  ftands  Lauder  fort.  This  fabric  is  neai* 
500  years  old.  It  was  built  by  Edward  Longihanks,  wha 
had  over-run  Scotland.  It  was  rebuilt,  and  converted  into  a 
dwening-houTe,  by  the  Duke  of  Lauderdale,  in  the  end  of  the 
hift  century.  There  are  fome  noUe  apartments  in  it,  and  rich 
fttocco  work,  according  to  the  tafte  of  that  age.  One  of  the 
old  apartments  is  prefcrved  as  a  curiofity. 


KUM« 


ijf  Aytm.  ^J| 


NUMBER    12. 

PARISH   OF  ATTON, 

By  tbi  Hiv.  Mr  Ggo&Gg  Ho  HI* 


Nami^  SUtfoiimy  fjfc. 


THE  pariO)  of  Ayton  (cemt  to  uke  its  name  from  the 
water  of  Eje*  It  lies  in  the  county  of  Berwick,  pref« 
bytery  of  Chimfidei  and  fynod  of  A9erie  and  Tiviotdale. 
The  parlfhes  by  which  it  is  bounded  are  Eyemouth  and  CoI« 
dioghaoEi  on  the  north,  Chirnfide  on  the  weft,  Foulden  and 
Mordington  on  the  ibmh,  and  by  the  fea  on  the  eaft.  The 
pariih  is  about  4 1  miles  long,  and  4  broad  z  It  was  once  of 
larger  extent,  when  Lammcrton,  Rofs,  and  Shiels  belonged 
to  it.  The  foil  is  in  general  fertile,  and  particularly  adapted 
for  the  turnip  hu(bandry.  There  is  about  2  miles  extent  of 
feacoaft.  The  (hore  is  high  and  roclcy.  Ihe  hills  in  this 
pariih  lie  chiefly  in  the  fouthem  extremity.  The  foil  of  fome 
of  them,  efpecially  of  a  ridge  of  no  very  confiderable  height, 
is  in  general  well  adapted  for  producing  corn  or  grafi* 

Cultivation  and  Produce — ^Agriculture  has  undergone  a  great 
change  in  the  courfe  of  a  very  few  years.  Inftead  of  five  or 
fix  fucceffive  white  crops,  the  farmers  will  feldom  allow  two 
to  follow  each  other  ;  for  they  derive  confiderable  advantage 
from  introducing  a  green  onCj  and  occafionally.  fallow,  be- 

tweeo 


tb  StatiJKcal  Account 

tween  the  white  crops.  The  experience  of  this  neighbotnw 
hood  has  rather  a  tendency  to  prove,  that  money  expended 
in  the  cultivation  of  moor  lands  has  feldom  turned  to  a  good 
account,  and  that  planting  is  the  beft  mode  of  improvement; 
the  effcfts  of  water,  however,  has  not  been  tried.  Umc  o- 
peratcs  at  firft,  but  lofes  its  tSt(\  as  a  ftimulus  upon  a  fecond 
trial.  Though  the  appearance  of  moor  lands  may  be  chang- 
ed by  culture  and  artificial  graiTcs,  they  will  not  feed  well ; 
and,  when  wet  or  cold,  are  believed  to  lay  the  foundation  of 
fhe  ret  in  flicep,  a  diftemper  which  proves  extremely  fatal. 

Two  horfcs  only,  are  at  prcfcnt  ufed  in  the  plough  here, 
inftead  of  four  oxen  and  two  horffs,  which  was  formerly  the 
praflice.  They  will  perform  the  fame  quantity  of  Imboor 
equally  well,  and  in  much  (horier  time.  The  £ngh(b  plough 
is  chiefly  ufed  in  this  parifli  The  lands  produce,  moft  of  the 
common  vegetables,  plants,  and  trees.  Artificial  grailes  are 
much  ufed.  Of  late  the  farmers  here  diredled  their  atten* 
tiou,  and  v  ith  great  fuccels,  to  ftock.  1  hey  find  that  the 
lands  iu  graib  make  a  profitable  return.  By  feeding,  too,  the 
ground  is  enriched  for  future  crops.  The  advantage  of  teed* 
mg  iliecp  on  the  lands,  in  the  proper  (eafon,  with  turnip,  if 
fenfibiy  felt  *,  acJ  this  pradlice  is  fuppoied  to  be  preferable  to 
a  fummcr  fallowing  ;  and  is,  at  the  fame  time,  no  lofs  to  the 
farmer. 
« 

Plantations  of  all  kinds  of  trees  are  much  encouraged  by 
the  prcfent  proprietor  of  the  cftate  of  Ayton,  which  contri- 
butes greatly  to  enrich  and  beautify  the  country.  His  lands 
fomc  years  ago  were  all  run^rig*^  as  was  very  much  the  cafe, 

particularly 

*  A  common  field,  ia  which  the  different  farmers  had  diffe* 
tent  ndges  srlloted  them  in  different  years,  according  to  the  nsi^ 
turc  of  their  crops./ 


if  Aytm.  4i 

jiorticalatly  upon  tlie  boarders,  with  a  y\em  to  engage  the 
people  to  a  mutual  defence  and  proteftion  of  their  property, 
ia  times  of  turbolence  and  hoMiity.  Thtj  are  mtm  divided, 
have  convenient  farm»houfe^  bnd  are  highly  improved. 
Harvefts  are  rather  ear^  here  tEim  late.  The  greateft  part 
of  the  lands  m  this  parifh  is  inciofed  ivith  hedges.  Fences 
cf  this  kind  are  recommended  bbch  by  their' beauty  and  uti- 
lity. "Hie  rife  of  rent  feems  to  have  operated  here  as  a  fpur 
to  exertion  aAd  improvement  in  agriculture.  The  farms 
have  rather  decreafed  in  number.  Some  -of  them,  though 
but  few,  extend  to  500  or  600  acres* 

jtsr  and  Dtftempirs  -»The  dr  is  dry  and  falabrious.  The 
fogs  ariCng  from  the  fea  feldom  penetsatc  above  a  mile  from 
the  ihore*  The  ague  was  very  common  prior  to  the  improve- 
ments and  indofirig  of  lands  j  but  fiace  that  time  this  difor- 
der  has  icarcely  been  ki^own  here,  excejtt  during  the  laft  ve- 
ry open  winter. 

Hor/eSf  Shefp^  fa^r.— The  horfes  bred  and  ofed  here  are 
flender ;  but  they  are  very  active,  and  able  to  unJergo 
much  fatigue :  They  have  advanced  much  In  value.  The 
breed  of  fheep  is  both  good  and  larger  their  weight,  at 
an  average,  is  about  18  or  20  lbs.  psr  quarter.  Four  of 
their  fleeces  yield  a  ftone  of  wool.  Five  (hcep  may  be 
maintained  upon  an  acre  of  fonie  of  the  bed  lands.  l*he 
number  of  flicep  in  this  parifh,  till  within  thefe  ten  or  twelve 
years  pad,  was  fmalL  Great  advantage  arifes  from  the  large 
breed  btcly  introduced :  Befides  yielding  more  wool,  they 
are  fit  for  the  market  in  two  years  time  5  while  flieep  of 
the  fmallcr  fixe  require  to*  be  kept  tliree  years  before  they 
are  ready  for  the  market.  The  wool  of  the  large  flieep  is^ 
without  doubt,  of  a  coarfer  quality  $  but  this  difadvantage  is 
VoL.L  L  mora 


Sa  Statiftiad  Aecount 

more  llum  cpmpenratcd  bj  the  quantity.  Oa  rich  biuk 
even  the  fmall  kind  of  flieep  would  incxeafe  in  fize,  and  their 
wool  becone  more  pleociful,  though  of  an  inferior  quality. 
The  wool  fells  from  12  s«  to  15  s.-  per  ftone.  Oxen  here  are 
commonly  fed  till  they  weigh  from  60  to  100  ftone. 

Fijb, — The  water  of  Eye  contains  good  trouts,  but  not  in 
any  quantity.  Cod,  ling,  haddocks,  whitings,  flounders,  holr 
Ijback,  mackrell,  and  other  kinds  of  fi(h,  are  caught  here  ia 
their  feaibns.  Lobfters  yield  confideraUe  profit  \  they  are 
chiefly  bought  up  for  the  London  market.  Herrings  ha?e 
been  got  in  great  quantities ;  but  they,  as  well  as  the  other 
kinds  of  white  fifli,  have  failed  much  for  thefe  two  years  paft. 
The  fifliermen  have  lately  difcovered  the  method  of  catching 
turbot,  which  brings  a  good  price. 

Populjtion.^-An  174X  the  village  of  Ayton  feems  to  hare 
contained  about  320  fouls,  and  the  country  part  of  the  parifli 
about  the  fame  number.  In  1773  the  village  contained  about 
360  fouls :  The  numbers  in  the  country  part  were  alfo  id- 
creafed.  In  1 780  the  number  of  the  inhabitants  amounted  to 
1 146,  of  which  420  were  m  the  villtgc,  and  726  in  the  country 
part  of  the  parifli.  In  the  prefent  year,  1 790,  the  number  a« 
mounted  to  1245.  '^^^  village  contains  147  families;  there  are 
ao2  males  and  229  females  above  ten  years  of  age,  and  5 1  males 
and  47  females  below  10  years  of  age.  The  country  part  of 
the  parifli  contains  136  fancies,  which  confift  of  263  males 
and  3  io  females  above  10,  and  53  males  and  90  females  be- 
low lo.  From  this  ftatement  it  may  be  remarked,  that  dur* 
ing  the  laft  ten  years  the  population  of  the  village  has  re- 
ceived an  addition  of  109,  while  the  country  part  of  the  pa- 
riib  has  fu&ered  the  decreafe  of  10  in  its  numbers.    On  the 

whole, 


vhole,  the  increafe  of  inhabkaiitt  witto  the  laft  50  yeati^ 
maj  be  Ibled  at  aboVe  6oo« 

VUkge  pf  AjiM,*^T\xt  viUage  of  Ayton  »  fitnated  on  the 
banks  of  the  Eye.  About  30  oew  houfcs  have  been  feoed 
in  it  within  die(e  if  years ;  they  confift  of  two  or  three  fto* 
riesy  and  are  covered  with  tyles.  The  Tillage  has  been  im- 
proved by  ranging  thefe  new  buiJklings  upon  a  ^eafant  flop« 
iag  bank  fronting  the  fonth. 

Ma$mfaBiirts^'^k  paper-mill  was  htely  creAed  here  at 
confiderabk  cxpence.  It  employs  about  70  or  80  wOrk  peo- 
ple, and  circulates  Kbout  L.  25  per  week.  The  wages  earned 
by  the  paper-makers  are  high.  This  manufaAure  gives  em« 
jrfoyinoit  to  tf  number  of  young  perfons^  who  are  taken  in  at 
eight  years  of  age.  There  is  a  wind-miU  here^  which  was  a 
pretty  eztenfive  work.  'It  maoufaAured  a  good  deal  of  flour 
doriDg  the  American  war,  but  has  done  little  or  no  bufinefs 
fioce. '  lliere  are  four  water-milb  in  this  parUhs  one  brew- 
Cfyt  which  ddes  not  carry  on  an  exteniive  trade ;  a  bleach- 
field,  which  was  eftabliifaed  many  years  ago,  and  fucceeds  s 
h  employs  about  7  or  8  hands* 

Cbartb  and  StifemL^^Thc  parifli  church  appears  to  be  an 
old  edifice,  and  has  lately  received  feveral  improvements^ 
which  its  former  ftate  rendered  extremely  neceflary.  The 
ilipend,  including 'a  late  augmentation,  and  the  value  of  the 
glebe,  is  about  L.  1 35  f^r  annum.    The  Crown  is  patron. 

P^r.— -The  number  of  the  poor  belonging  to  this  partfli  ia 
variable.  The  heritors  and  tenants  are  aflefTed  to  the  extent 
of  L.  30  or  L.  40  per  annum  for  their  fupport.  To  this  fund 
is  added  one  half  of  the  contributions  at  the  churchy  which. 


fU.  Siaii/bad  Jewmt 

diftributed  under  the  infpcAion  oi  jtho  kirkrfiRAw  in  oora* 
iional  charities*  FaFt  of  it,  together  with  the  money  aiiGsg 
ifom  marriufcs  aod'the  aTeioC  tbr  paU^in^ut-clocJi^is  applied 
to  educate  poor  chikben  aud  pay  cliucch  officers.  I^bc  ex» 
pence  incurred  ba  the  0}aioteo;>oce  of  the  parpclM4  ppor  baa 
incrcafed  near  tW0  thirds  c)uring  the  ^ncnfubeaq;  qf  t|iq  prc- 
fent  miniftci^  Tjie  people  in  jf  neralx  h^^rcyjer^  campot  bear 
the  idea  of  being  put  oh  the  poor's  roll,  cvei^wbeirthey  aro 
in  diflrefs.  Duriifg  a  late  period  of  Ibarcity  meal  wis  pur- 
chafed  for  the  uff  of  poor  honfpholclers,  and  fold-  at.  a  very  nio^ 
derate  price  }•  but  few  applied  for  the- benefit  ot  t\a&  aid^  c^« 
cept  thofe  who  were  accuftouied  to.i^dsf^  cbwily* 

;  Price  of  Pfwifiom.^^The  price  of  biitdder  meat  J^  from 
3^d.  to  4d.  ^r  lb.  £ngl:(b  weight ;  it  has  ad^fMice4-  about 
I-  d.  pir  lb.  within  ihefc  6  or  8  yeays*  T)ic  pricp  gf.  pork  is 
variable.  Haddocks,  i^hich  fold  forxftqrfy,  at  4  4/  ok  6  d.  per 
fcore,  now  often  bring  as  much  a  piece.  A  goofe.U  ibid  here 
tor  2  s.  i  a  pair  of  docks  for  i  ?-.  y±  j  a  pair  of  )ien$  for  i  s. 
dd,  V  A  turkey  for  2  %.  6d.'^  blotter  Ms  fof  ^4^  and  cheeie 
for  4  d  per  lb.  The  prices  of  grain,  n^fi j  be  sifcect^^ioed  fi-om 
the  fiars  of  the  county. 

Wages. — The  wages  of  a- labourer  arc  ^  s.  a  day  ^  a  car- 
penter's and  mafon's,  is.  4d. ^  a  taylor's,  1  s.  Tbrefhing  of 
corn  is  ufually  paid  by  what  is  termed  Ut^i.  t.  i  boU  is  aUowcd* 
for  every  25  boUs  that  are  ibrdlicd,  rhc^  wages  of  a  mafon 
and  his  labourer,  &c.  arc  generally  fettled  at  fo  much  a  rood. 
A  hind  receives  2  bolls  of  barley,  rbollof  jxrafe,  and  lo.bolls 
of  oats  ^  he  has  a  cow's  ^rafs,  a  houfe  and  yard,  and  as  much 
ground  as  will  fcrvc  to  plant  a  iirlot  of  potatoes.  He  is  like- 
wife  allowed  whttt  coals  he  may  have  occafion  for  in  his  £»> 

mil;. 


/ff  fftft,  load,;  in^ji^lfi^ the  (olb  | « the  carriage  4s  eqi»l  (048^ 
per  load.    The  hind's  wife  reaps  ia  harveft  for  the^v^Cr ; 
He  has  alfo  L.  i  allowed  for  ffaeep'ti  graft.    A  nan  fenrant 
receur^  fcoin  JUs-to  JU  7  ftr  amum^  #ith  bed  find  boa^dr  % 
maid  ftrvam  frMi JU».2ritQ,L.4  ptfA 


JkAp!^<---T|ktM  ate lir^era)  r^^  The* 

£rjt-was  a  fociety  oC  Afttibnrgher^;    Tbei?  Mvnbcr  is  y<rf 
fmaU«    Their  ii»}ni^  is  provided  .vtidi  a 'iQrygo^ci'twulfi^' 
and  reieans  fr0m  ihcm^  perhaps^ .  ab<>ift  L«  40  fn  atmrnid 
There  It  aVb  a  J^irghrr  ttiectiag-'hotrfc:  itr^he  village^  rather  . 
of  a  better  appearance  than  the  other  $  the  fkSi  of  SecedeaT' 
wh6  altcad  it  are  more.  Dunkerotn  .than  the  fiitmer»  .and  of . 
priixipfes  )a¥>re  ac^faoMsdating  to  the-  tiaaes*.    They  aUo^ 
provide. a  houTe  for  their  aaimfter>>  and  allow  bias  probably^ 
'L.6q9rU  joffr^ofim/m.  Both  iOK^lhoulcs  liave  befif  buik 
fince  the  <f  773*    Though  a  eonfi^itra^le  naoober  have  att^clw 
ed  themliekes  to  the  diiTerent  fe£biriesi  yei»  being  coo^pofed- 
of  the. infierior  vaaib$  of  the  peoptes. their  defefUcm  has  na< 
diminiihed  the  contribution  for  fhe  parochial  poor.*    Little^ 
allotted  by  thein  to  the  maialleoaiure  of  their  own  poor ;  jct 
they  contribute  with  seal,  many  of  thcqi  with  libcrafity  ill, 
fujted  to  tU^ir  circumftancos^  for  the  ilipport  of  their  ccclc->\ 
fiaftical  eftablilhment. 

Roads. — ^The  roads  in  th^  parifii  are  getting  ii^o  good  re- 
pair. The  poll  road  is  now  made,  and  fupported  hj  two' 
tumpiices,  which  were  latcljr  erefted  *,  ohci  at  the  cxtreinity 
of  the  county  towards  £aft  Lothian,  and  the  other  at  Berwick. 
Ex>uod$*  When  they  were  firft  propoled,  th^y  met  with  keen 
Oppofition  ;  but  they  have  fince  been  umvcrfally  acknow* 
kdged  to  be  of  fignal  benefit  to  the  CQV^Xrf.    The  it.itute 

kbour 


S5  Staiytkai  Aitmait 

labour  is  commuted.  -  Potting  up  thfe  rotdi  td  ao^bon*  lia« 
been  the  mean  of  getting  them  made  mncb  cheaper  than 
formerlj* 

Impnvemeriis  fuggijlii.'^lt  ivonid  be  an  ad^Aitage  tothh 
parifli,  as  well  as  to  EyenlieoA,  if  the  tnail^coKh  would  drop 
a  bagi  containing  fuch  letters  as  are  addreficd  to  the  inhabi- 
t^tf  of  eachi  which  wonld  relies  them  from  the  cxpence 
of  fendmg  to  Berwick  or  Pv^  If  the  woolkn  or  cotton  ma- 
nufaAtre  were  introduced  and  encouraged  here,  the  condi- 
tion of  the  people  might  be  greatly  improved.  To  take  the 
duty  off  coals  carried  cooft-^ways  to  Eyemouth,  as  b  done  at 
Dunbar  (to  which  port  Eyemouth  belongs)  would  great* 
ly  promote  the  eftabliihment  of  manufaAures.  Tliis  du- 
ty yields  Ixit  a  mere  trifle  to  goTcrnmenr,  and  fobjeOs  the 
people  here  to  a  ftate  of  entire  dependence  on  Northum- 
berland for  fiiel.  As  the  coal  hills  adjoining  to  this  part  of 
the  country  are  almoft  entirely  engrofled  by  one  peHbn,  ic 
would  be  rather  furpriCng  if  he  did  not  avail  himfelf  of  this 
advantage,  by  keeping  up  the  price  of  lb  important  an  ardclc. 

Mifcetlanews  Oi/ervationf.'-^Thc  kelp  made  here  Is  fuppo<ed 
to  be  about  15  or  20  tons  annually.  There  are  fome  quar« 
ries  in  this  pariQi,  the  (tones  of  which  anfwcr  for  buildingy 
and  are  fuppofed  to  be  impregnated  with  an  iron  ore.  Free* 
fione  b  confined  to  a  fmaU  part  of  the  ihore.  The  free-ftone 
muft  be  tranfported  to  the  harbour  of  Eyemouth,  and  then 
carried  by  land.  Corn  is  carried  to  market  in  carts,  which 
have  been  ufed  here  for  the  fpace  of  40  or  50  years.  On  the 
hills  on  the  fouth  fide  of  the  pariOi  are  the  remains  of  two 
camps,  fuppofed  to  be  Roman  or  Saxon.  Several  urns,  and 
broken  pieces  of  armour,  have  been  found  here.  In  the  loi^ 
grounds  towardi^tbe  nOrth-weft|  are  the  veftiges  of  three  en- 
campments^ 


^  Ajtmp  Af 

«iiipaieat%  thought  to  have  been  Daniih  or  PiAiih.  Hifio- 
r;  m^ntiops  ihe  ca(llf  of  AytoD»  but  fcarcely  any  veftiges  of  it 
now  remain.  The  names  of  places  feem  to  be  derived  chief* 
I7  from  the  Saxon.  There  is  one  public,  and  two  private 
fchoob  in  the  parlih.  The  eftaUiflied  fchoohnader,  as  is  too 
gffoerally  the  cafe,  has  not  a  provifion  adequate  to  the  im- 
portance of  fuch\a  charge.  There  are  two  white  thrqui- 
makers  m  the  parifh.  There  are  two  or  three  bridges  \  one 
<tf  them  was  built  by  aid  from  government:  They  are  of 
great  utility.    Two  boats  crews  only  belong  to  Ayton. 

In  1 6731  there  appears  to  have  been  24  heritors,  including 
pc^oners  and  feuers,  in  this  parilh :  In  1790,  there  are  about 
14.  At  the  former  periodi  they  were  more  diftingui(hed 
by  £uiuly  and  rank.  There  were  6  of  the  name  of  Home^ 
each  of  feme  diftinJUon ;  now  there  is  only  one  of  that  name  ; 
their  lands  having  been  difpofed  of  by  the  great  heritors. 
There  are,  however,  feveral  defendants  of  portioners  who 
mil  retain  their  pofleiEons. 

The  people,  in  general,  are  difpofed  to  induftry.  Since 
the  induAion  of  the  prefent  minlfter  there  is  a  very  vifiUe 
change  in  their  mode  of  living  and  drels^  Uliough  the  &rms 
are  much  higher  rented  than  formerly,  yet  the  tenants  are, 
in  every  refpeft,  much  more  expeniive  than  they  were  15 
years  ago.  Tradefmen  and  labourers  in  the  village  are  ad- 
diAed  to  the  pernicious  habit  of  ufing  tea.  Of  late,  alfo, 
from  the  low  price  of  whiiky,  the  execrable  cuftom  of  dram^ 
drifJung  b  gaining  ground,  even  among  the  women  of  the 
lower  dafs.  Habits  fo  inimical  to  health,  induftry,  and  mo- 
rals, ought  to  be  checked  if  poifible.  Two  perfons  belong* 
ing  to  this  parifh  have  been  banilhed  from  Scotland  fince  the 
incumbent  was  fettled.    He  knows  only  of  one  perfon  who 

has 


j#>  Stat^ical  Aiemtl 

hats  been  guilty  of  fntcidc.  There  is  no  ^tit  *of  «in^Ioyiolit 
for  the  people.  Thej  fcttn  coheented  with  their  fitoatioii 
and  circamftanceii  and  are  wt  ftrangor*  ta  tht  comibrtttf 
life. 


This  phriih  has  feverad  adtafliMgc*.  It  k  aear  aurfceti, 
fbr  difpofing  of  grainy  cattle,  or  ftod:  on  the  iarmsi  hcS^g 
7  miies  from  Berwick  ahd  a  from  lijaaiouib.  k  is  at  no 
great  difttnca  from  coal :  The  price,  howtPret^  coofideriog 
that  diftanoe,  is  certainly  highk  The  poft^road  to  London 
^oes  through  the  parifli :  And  the  vicinity  of  the  fea  affords 
a  good  fupply  of  moft  kinds  of  fifh.  The  pariflk  of  Ayton 
(does  much  more  than  fupply  itfelf  with  prorifions. 


HUM* 


'^Jiri  '   W 


!NUMBER     X. 

i»ARIS^ri   OF  AIR. 

£y  ike  Rev.  Dr  Dalrympls^  and  the  Rev.  Dr  M<GtLL% 


Ifampf  Siitfoiwf^  Extent,  &f/,  and  Surfice^ 

THE  name  of  the  town,  parifh,  and  county  of  Air,  be* . 
longed  Srft  to  the  river,  and  was  derived  to  them 
from  it.  It  is  probably  of  Celtic  origin ;  for,  according  to 
the  information  of  a  gentleman  Ikilled  in  the  Iriih  languagCy 
Ahre  fignifies  thin  or  (hallow,  and  is  truly  defcriptive  of  the 
water  of  Air  compared  with  the  neighbourmg  water  of  DoAft^ 
now  Dbon,  which,  flowing  oiit  of  a  large  lake,  is  fumiflied 
with  a  more  deep  and  copious  ftream.  There  are  two  towns 
of  the  fame  name  ih  France,  Aire  in  Artois,  and  Aire  in  Ga£> 
cony,  which,  no  doubt,  have  the  fame  etymology.  The  an- 
tient  name  of  this  pariih,  as  appears  from  fome  old  papers^ 
Was  Are ;  the  modern  name  is  Air  or  Ayr.  It  is  iituated  la 
the  county  of  Air,  prefbytcry  of  Air,  and  fynod  of  Glas- 
gow and  Air.  Its  form  is  quadrangular.  The  weft  fide,  a« 
bout  a  mile  and  a  half  long,  is  bounded  by  the  fca  j  the  north, 
about  3  miles  long,  by  the  river  Air ;  the  fouth,  about  the 
fame  length,  by  the  river  Doon  $  the  eaftern  fide  is  fully  4 
miles  long,  bounded  by  the  parities  of  Dalrymple  and  CoyU 
ton.  For  a  mile  and  a  half  fomh  of  the  town,  the  country 
u  quite  flat,  and  the  foil  fandy.    It  is  nearly  the  fame  on  the 

M  north 


r 


Stati/iical  Mcouni 


north  fide  of  the  river,  and  the  rife  is  but  fmall  for  two  i 
more.  On  the  eaft  the  rife  is  gradual  and  beautiful  for  two^ 
miles  and  a  half.  The  foil  is  for  the  moft  part  deep,  much 
improved  of  late,  azid  beautified  \Sff  elegaAt  planutions.  The 
Ihore  is  flat,  and,  in  general,  fandy.  There  are  Ibme  funk 
rocks  I  but  they  are  not  dangerous. 

Climate  and  Difeafes, — The  air,  upon  the  whole,  is  rather 
m#}ft,  owmg  to  the  clouds,*  which  Ticc  Wafted  by  t6e  A>od^ 
weft  wind  from  the  Atlantic  Ocean.  With  a  weft  wind, 
which  is  often  the  cafe,  little  or  no  rai^  falls  *upon  the  parifli 
of  Air  $  the  clouds  being  broken  on  the  higheft  point  of  the 
Ifle  of  Arran.  About  the  time  of  the  Equinox^  there  are 
frequently  high  winds.  In  fpring^  there  are  often  iong  trafb 
of  cold  winds,  which  blow  from  the  north-eaft  and  the  norA; 
Though  the  climate  is  falubriotis  in  genierar,  yet  perfbns  of  a 
cbnfumpfive  habi^  ought  to  dWell  at  a  diftance  firom  the  pa- 
jIQi  of  Aih  A  fea  voyage  gives  the  6eft  chance  of  recovery. 
The  common  diftempets  incident  to  childi^n  proVb  leis  &taf 
here  than  in  herghbouring  towVi^.  No  fields  ean  be  more 
commodious  for  talking,  or  the  healthful  e^eitriies  of  ridmg 
ahd  gdlfitfg.  Wife  parents  fend  out  their  chifdren  early  to' 
fport  upon  turf  ful)  of  diffei^nt  forts  of  <ilover,  particuFarly 
the  yellow  and  the  white.  Once  or  twice  within  thefe  40 
years,  a  dattgerous  fore  throat,  atcotnpanied  with'  a  pUfriJ 
fever,  has  been  6pidemicaf. 

'  Lakes  and  Mineral  Spnngs.-^The^  ^e  two  fmaift  lakes,  one 
toward  the  fiAith-fide,  named  Carleny^  and  the  other  at  the 
eaflerh  extremity,  calkd  Loch^Fergus^  which  is  mentioned  irf 
the  town's  charter  about  600  years  ago.  It  appears  that  fome 
cOnfiderable  edifice  has  ftood  in  its  vicinity,  out  of  the  ruins 
of  Whfch  fctend  houfes  have  been  bbilt.    It  hai  a'  fmsOl  ilte 


of  Air.^  $r 

in  die  middlct  and,  probablyi  was  a  herenry.  In  Ais  lake 
«re  pike  aod  eels,  but  few  trouts.  There  is  a  mineral  ipring 
vn  the  north  fide  of  the  river,  found  out  near  50  years  ago, 
and  ftin  ufed  by  a  few  poor  people.  It  comes  from  a  mixture 
of  coal  aod  lrc(n»  and  \^  1>een  thought  efficacious  in  feveral 
difordcrs^ 

,^.-— Qaddock  and  cod  have  been  very  plentiful  on  Air 
€oaft  finc^  the  Jxerrings  left  it :  Mackarel  has  been  fcarce  for 
ibme  years  paft :  Soals  and  turbot  are  rare.  White  fi(h  are 
generally  fold  at*  i  d.  per  Englifh  ppund^.  The  pi'ice  of  fal- 
mon  in  January,  and  till  tjhe  month  of  March,  is  between  6  A. 
and  3  d.  per  pound.  Th^  are  much  fcarcer  than  formerly, 
owing,  it  is  fuppofed,  to  the  liming  of  land.  The  price  is 
^epc  high,<oo,  on  account  of  their  being  carried  to  Kilmar- 
nppki  Irvine,  Glafgow,  and  chiefly  Paifley.  Forty  years  ago» 
herrings  w^re  caught  in  ^reat  numbers,  and  fold  from  6  d. 
te  3  d.  per  liufidred.  Sail-fifh  of  larjge  fize  are  fometimes 
taken,  whence  are  got  oib  for  tanners.  The  feafon  for  white 
fi{h  is  through  the  whole  year,  except  about  fix  weelcs,  from 
the  end  of  March  till  the  beginning  of  May,  old  ftile.  When 
herrings  were  caught  at  the  mouth  of  Air  river,  a  lamp  was 
ufually  placed  there.  This  lamp  w^  of  great  ufe  in  prevent- 
ing fhip-wrecks  ^  and  ^he  lofs  of  feveral  lives,  and  loaded  veU 
{6%^  at  f  he  end  of  the  year  1 789,  may  be  imputed  to  the  want 
<tfit. 

Cultivation  and  Produff.^^erj  Httlie  ground  in  this  parifh 
fK>w  lies  wafte  or  common.  Between  80  and  90  acres,  free 
to  every  burgefs,  for  feeding  milk  cows,  was  lately  inclofed. 
About  ao  acres  of  common  was  feued  from  the  town,  little 
more  than  30  years  ago,  at  L.  iia  Sterling,  with  18  s.  9d. 
#if  fea«duty.    Being  brought  into  good  tillagei  and  finely*- 

planted. 


91  Statl/lical  Account 

planted,  it  fold  in  1790  for  L.  1 100  Sterling.  Thirty  Jpaxi 
ago  there  was  much  heath  towards  the  cad ;  it  is  now  green, 
or  yielding  crops.  Sea-weed  is  thrown  in  plentifully  by  win- 
ter ftorms,  and  much  ufed  in  manuring  land.  Marie,  in  the 
Jbigher  grounds,  is  got  in  abundance,  .and  is  of  great  advan- 
tage, as  there  is  little  lime  but  what  is  imported  from  Ireland. 
Oats  are  Town  from  the  end  of  February  to  the  end  of  March  -, 
peafe  and  beans  are  (own  in  April ;  barley  in  May  and  June* 
Wheat  fown  before  winter  is  commonly  firfl  reaped,  towards 
the  end  of  Auguft.  The  parifh  is  fcarcely  able  to  fupply  it- 
felf  with  provifions,  as  appears  from  importations,  and  no 
great  decreafe  of  price*  Little  flax  is  raifed,  at  lead  for  fale. 
A  confiderable  quantity  of  artificial  graces  is  raifed  with 
great  fuccefs.  Moft  of  the  wood  in  the  parifh  is  young,  but' 
thriving  well. 

PofulaiioK, — It  appears  from  the  records  of  the  Sailors  So- 
ciety, that,  when  wine  was  imported  at  Air  from  France,  the 
population  was  much  greater  than  at  prefen*-.  When  a  plague 
broke  out  here,  near  200  years  ago,  according  to  tradition, 
about  2000  died,     in  1745,  t(ie  inhabitants  were,  reckoned 
about  2000.    The  return  to  Dr  Wcbfter,  in  1755,  was  296J. 
fouls.     Trade  fincc  that  time  revived,  particularly  tobacco 
which   added   confiderably   to    the  population.      Incloficg 
took  place  much  about  the  fame  time;  and  ii|  the  years  1747, 
X748,  J  749»  and  1 750,  the  herring  fifliing  was  great :  Sailors, 
coopers,  &c.  were  of  courfc  numerous      Upon  the  whole, 
the  inhabitants  have  been  increaling  feniibiy,  though  not  »• 
pidly,  for  more  than  30  years  paft.     The  number  of  examin- 
able perlbns  in  the  parifh,  reckoning  from  7  years  of  age  and 
upwards,  is  above  3400.     Of  thefe  there  are  3009  10  the 
town,  and  the  remainder  in  the  country.     The  number  of 
&als  may  therefore  be  ftated  at  about  41Q0  fouls. 

Manjr 


j^  Air, 


%\ 


Many  Pf  tl^e  iphabitants  arje  befw^^n  70  and  iqo  jear$  of 
^^e.  OnjC  walked  to  liOndon  after  his  {oot|x  yealr  •,  aqothqr 
above  lop  died  a  few  mooths  ago. 


Ab/lrt^  of  Births^  Jlfarriq^c^,and  Deaths,  at  different  periods. 


Tears. 

Births 

Mar. 

Deaths. 

* 

,    ^fV     ,'F.      Tot.'           Men. Worn.  thil.Tot.^ 

i<S64 —  5 

146 

128 

274' 
iS9^ 

^W 

1688—  9 ' 

ii« 

131 

34 

' 

1698 —  9 

9' 

88 

.179 

.41 

• 

..  .. 

...k 

1715—16 

82 

97 

»79 

3« 

'7.J4— 3S. 

i-q^.. 

.  .90 

190 

.4? 

.38 

49 

n 

w 

>745— 4<i 

90 

86 

■*i76 

49 

1756— St 

ri2 

107 

•219 

54- 

«.         .  X 

.1767 — 68 

n:^ 

>33 

255 

.66 

33 

4> 

=  4f' 

m  = 

•777—78 

ift«. 

J 10. 

27a 

.i9: 

38 

48 

6.0 

i4P 

i7Ua_8j 

U',7 

!.»3 

230 

?9, 

.•A7 

45 

<?i: 

f»ii7i 

'  There  arc  above  (Joo  inKabitcd  hoiifcs  in  the  parifh.    The 

number  of  heritors 'is  about  60.   There  are  2  minifters  of  the' 

. «.      .  ,.  '  .  .  ..,,..  -r«  ^ 

Eftabliflied  Church,  2  Moravians,  1  Epifcopalian,  and  |  Me* 

»■      I   ...     ':    '•  "         *.  .'  '    .'    r    ' 

thodift.  There  ^rc  2,phyfician9,  3  furgeons  and  apothecaries* 

and  about  16  writers.    The  feccder^  amount  to  about  cc  oc 

60. 


State  of  the  Poor — ^Weekly  collcftiops,  and  other  parifh 
fundsi  put  it  in  the  power  of  the  fcffion  to  diftribute  I^  100^ 
per  qnnun^.  The  town' gives  L.  30,  the  failors  L.  10,  the 
writers  L,  5,  the  merchants  L.  3  ;  and  other  fmall  corppra- 
tions  contribute,  to  thq  extent  of  L.  14  or  L.'  15;  befid^s 
which,  there  is  a  half  year's  fient  of  L.  jo.  The  feffion  re- 
tains, for  occafional  charities  among  poor  tradefmen,  and 
Others^  about  L.  20.    If  any  part  of  this  fum  is  faved  at  the' 

end 


94  Sfaft/Ucdl  Anouni 

end  of  the  year,  ^it  is  added  to  the  funds  of  theCharity-Eoiile. 
This  houre  was  built  by  f  ubfcription  in  i  '^56^  and  is  6t  to  re- 
geive  60  perfons;  but,  as  many  penfioners  prefer  a  fmall  week- 
)y  allowance  out  of  the  houfe^  there  are  feldom  more  tbaii 
4Q  in  it.  Alderman  S^mith  of  .Londonderryi  borp  at  An*,,  ^ft 
L.'ioo9  Teveralyears  ago,  to  purckafe  land  for  poor  houfe- 
Jcjcepers.  This,  charity  ha$  ^proved  very  feafooable.  Proypft 
Cochrane  pf  Glalgow,  ix>m  anjl  ^oc^ifecl  atAu^i  left  like- 
n^re'L.  IOC)  the  intereft  of  which  is  appointed  to  be  ^iveo  to 

i reputable  burgee's  widqw  or  Japght^  duriqg  life.     An  in- 
rmary  and  i)ridcp^ell  are^nuch  wanted, 

'  ^rkf  rf  Lahur  and  iVwjSi/tf r-^A  labourer,  with  a  wik 
ijnd  5  childif  n,  is  able  to  earn  7  s«  per  week,  and  fometimes 
ai  Uule  nw^  A^  sua  average,  he  purchafes  3  {lecks  of  meal, 
afind  a  greater  qisantftiy  of  potatoes,  half  a  cart  of  coals,  and 
ibap  to  the  value  of  2d.  per  week ;  3  ftonc  of  wbol,  at  7  s.  6d^ 
ihe  ftone,  for  clothing,  and  10  lib.  of  lint,  at  lod.  per  lib, 
per  mfittum.  His  wife's  attendance  on  the  childreii  prevents 
^erTrom  earning  much.  This  may  Orrve  as  a  general  fpecir 
inen'of  the  w^ges  and  e^pences  oiF  a  labourer's  family.  A 
ihoeaiaker,  if  induftrious,  gets  from  i  s.  a  d.  to  i  s,  8  d.  a- 
day;  t  mafon  from  1  s.  3  d.  to  1  s.  8  d.;  a  wright  from  1  s.  3  d. 
to  I  s.  9  d. ;  a  taylor  1  s.  2  d.  The  price  of  provifions  is  more 
than  doubled  within  thefe  laft  50  years.  Beef  and  muttoi^  is 
now  frpm  a  d;  to  5  d.  per  lib.  Lamb  is  from  i  s.  3  d.  to 
a  s.  6  d,  per  quarter;  pork  6  d.  per  lib. ;  veal  from  4  d.  to  6  d. ; 
pigs  from  2  s.  6  d.  to  3  s. ;  i^eefe  2  s. ;  ducks  from  pd.  to  is. ; 
chickens  4  d.  and  fometimes  lefi  ;  rabbits  9  d. ;  buiter  from 
d  d.  to  8  d.  pef  lib. ;  cbeefe  from  ^^  d.  to  6  d. ;  wheat  finoqi 
21  s.  to  25  s.  per  bod  \  barley  from  ^8  s.  to  20  s. ;  oats  froioi 
iSs.  to  18  Sf 

Church 


1-  .y't^'*-.,  ^.  .       -^^ 

tiunh  and  ^/^dl«— The  prefent  church  was  bdU  in  1 654^ 
itod  is  kept  in  good  repair  b)r  the  magiArates.  Tl^e  old 
thorch,  ftiled  St  John  Baptift'si  was  converted,  by  Uliver 
Cromwel  into  an  armory ;  for  which  he  ga?e  ap  allowance  of 
1000  Englifh  merits  to  balld  another.  .It  was  in  St  Johii 
Baptift's  churcli  that  the  parliament  met  to  con^rm  Brucelf 
title  to  the  throne.  Records  of  their  lederunt  (hew,  thai 
numbers  of  the  nobility  could  bnly  ^gn  their  initial^. '  The 
feoior  mihifter's  living,  ihctiiding  the  glebe,  is  about  L«  136 
per  annurH.  The  King  is  patron.  The  town  geherdly  al- 
lows the  fehior  minifter  1 2  guineas  for  a  houfe.  THe  legal 
ftipend  of  his  colleague  would  fcarcety  amount  to  L.  75  ;  buf^ 
from  regard  to  him  who  at  prelent  fills  the  charge,  the  mai* 
giftrafes  ^nd  council,  b^Bdes  allowance  fo^  a  houfe,  have  add* 
£d  a  fum  which  makes  his  ilipeild  L.  iO$.  The  town^coum 
cil  and  (effion  are  patl^dds. 

Mifcellatieout  ObJitvatmu^^-^Thcrc  are  no  volcanic  appear- 
ances  in  this  parifh,  unlefs  large  focks,  and  fragments  of  rocks^ 
iftiich  Htve  numerous  indented  flones,  or  metals  of  different 
kinds,  be  confidered  as  fuch*  Various  figured  ftones  and  pe^ 
trifii£tioni  have  been  found  in  the  parifh.  There  is  a  confi- 
derable  quantity  of  moor-ftone  lying  on  the  fufface  of  the 
ground.  The  firee-fione  lies  rather  deep.  S6me  houfes  in 
the  town  let  at  Li  20,  but  a  greater  number  between  that 
fom  and  L.  10.  The  rent  of  the  falmon  fiaiery"  in  the  river 
Doon  is  L.  80  }  that  in  the  river  Air  a  little  Icfs.  The  mar* 
kets  here  are  gdod.  The  common  fuel  is  coal.  The  price 
paid  at  the  pit,  per  cart,  is  from  2  s.  3  d.  to  2  s.  6  d.  The 
one  pit  is  half  a  mile  diftant,  and  the  other  rather  more.  That 
at  Dmogan,  in  the  parifli  of  Stair,  though  a  little  dearer,  it 
undoubtedly  the  beft.  According  to  tradition,  there  was  a 
battle  fboghtj  before  the  Chriftian  aera,  in  the  valley  of  Dal« 

ryniplei 


4p  S  Stati^icdl  Aecouai 

tjtnplcp  in  which  two  Slings^  Fergus  and  CoiliiSj  [felL  It  h 
added,  that  Lochjergus  takes  its  name  from  the  ibrmefi  and 
the  rivef  Kyle  firom  the  latter.  Thither  Coilus,  it  is  faid,  was 
purfued  and  flain.  The  fmall  village  of  Cojltonj  6  miles  eaft 
of  Air,  likewife  is  (aid  to  derive  its  name  from  him*  It  ha^ 
ibeen  fuppofed  that  Dalrjmple,  Dalf-rd^mei,  fignifies  the  val« 
ky  6t  the  daughter  of  kings.  There  is  a  cairn  of  flooes  in 
Ihe  mtdft  of  this  valley.  In  June  1734,  ^  b^U  of  fire  paflfed 
through  two  oppofite  windows  of  the  heweft  fteeple,  broke 
one  end  of  the  bell  bomb-joift,  and  then  defcended  to  the 
ilrcety  but  did  no  more  harm.  A  boy  in  the  neighbourhood 
Vas  killed  by  another  ball  of  fire.  Perhaps  the  only  inunda- 
tion that  deferves  notice  happened  in  1739,  attended  with  a 
^eat  ftorm.  This  raifed  the  river  much,  and  forced  Ihips  of 
cbnilderable  burden  quite  out  of  the  channel. 


NUM. 


^  tarrtJetti  ^ 


^A 


if  U  A!  B  £  R     XL 
PAklSH  OF  CARRIDEN. 

Byihe  Rev.  Mr  Gborgb  Ellis* 


Sitwgienf  Ektent^  Sot/,  isfc*, 

THE  parilhlof  Carridcn  %  pronounced  Carrin,  is  fituated 
in  the  county  of  Linlithgow^  or  Wed  Lothiaui  about 
l8  miks  4reft  from  Edinburgh,  on  the  fouth  fide  of  the  Frith 
rf  Fonhj  is  in  the  prefbyterjr  of  Litilithgowi  and  fynod  of 
Lorhtao  and  Tweeddale.  It  is  about  i  mile  in  breadth  from 
north  to  fottth,  and  about  1  miles  in  length  from  eaft  to  weft; 
bounded  by  Abercorn  on  the  eaflr,  Borrowftounnefs  on  tho 
Weft,  and  Linlithgow  on  the  fouthi  The  foil  is  rather  of  a. 
light  kind,  and  agrees  better  with  a  rainy  than  a  dry  feafon  : 
The  climate^  in  general,  hoWeVer,  is  dry  and  healthy,  f  he 
land  is  all  arable,  and  produces  grain,  grafs,  ind  vegetables  of 
every  kind.  It  is  let  out  to  fmail  tenants  generally,  moft  of 
whom  are  poor,  and  live  poorly,  at  30,  40^  or  50  fliillings 
per  acre.  The  greateft  part  of  it  is  iocloled. 
Vol.  L  N  Coal. 

•  The  nattic  U  ctttainly  of  Celtic  original.  In  that  language, 
taer  fignifies  a  poft  or  Aation;  and,  as  it  is  fuuated  at  the 
catlern  extremity  of  Graham's  dyke,  the  Romans  doubtlef»,  had 
a  conlider4ble  liation  here.  As  to  the  latter  part,  it  may  be  de- 
r.vcd  cither  from  readan,  a  rccd,  or  rcUkCf  plain,  opcn;*lhc  poft 
among  the  reeds,  the  poft  in  the  pUin. 


% 


Siafl/lical  Ace$Hni 


Cm/.— This  parifh  is  full  of  coal,  for  which  there  is  greaf 
demand  It  likewlfe  abounds  in  free-ftone.  The  coal  s  of 
a  fine  quality,  and  is  the  only  fuel  ufed  in  the  pariih.  It  is 
carried  to  London,  to  the  northmoft  parts  of  Scotland,  to 
Holland,  Germany,  and  the  Baltic.  It  fells  at  a  higher  price 
on  the  hilT,  and  to  the  country  poople  wlio  Uve  acart  and 
therefore  muft  ufe  it,  than  any  coal  in  Scotland^  It  lies  very 
deep ;  this  may  be  one  caufe  of  its  high  price.  There  are 
above  100  carts  employed  in  the  coal  works,  to  drive  coals  te 
the  fea  and  the  fait  pans. 

Grange  Colliery. 
Great.    Chows.    Culm. 
i^^'joo — 4,300—5,100  tons  produced  yearly^ 
6,n7 — 2,380—600  tons  of  v^Kich  exported. 
Colliers  -  -  -  -  •  3J 

Coal  mines  -  -  j         :    -       .     •  a 

Fire-cnrincs  •  -  •  •  .  2 

The  great  coa! Told,  per  cart,  which -contains  900  weight, 
'  at  3  s.  6  d. 

"iThc  chows,  or  fmallcr  coal,  at  as.  5^d. 
The  culm,  or  panwood,  at  r  s.  9  d. 

I 

Salt  pans  -  -  -     .         .  ..  j 

Buflicls  of  fait  made  yearly        •  -  -        16,209 

There  is  another  colliery  in  the  parifl),  which  yirids  noore 
coal  and  fait  than  that  mentioned  above. 

Population. — ^Thi5  parifh  contains,  at  an  average,  bctwcca 
1400  and  1500  fouls.  Perhaps  tlxe  eighth  part  of  the  people 
are  feceders.  Each  marriage,  at  an^  average,  produces  6  chil' 
drcn.    Many  of  the  inhabitants  have  attiiincd  to  70,  80,  and 


rffiarriden.    -  99 

90  years  of  age.  There  arc  4  heritors,  none  of  whom  refidc^ 
hitheparifh.  The  alterations' here',  and  in  the  neighbotir- 
bood,  with  regard  to  the  drefs  and  maimer  of  living  of  the 
people,  arc  very  great. 

Villages. — TTherc  are  4  villages  in  the  parlflii  Grangcpans, 
Bridgeneft,  Benhardpans,  and  Blackneis.  Moft  of  the  (hip- 
ping that  is  now  in  Borrowftounnefs  formerly  belonged  to 
Gring^ns:  Bot^  fince  a'good  pier  and  harbour  was  ereAed 
in  Borrowftoutinefsi  moft  of  the  fhips  lie  there.  The  trade 
along  the  feuth  fide  of  the  Forth  is  much  decayed.  It  is 
gone  to  Grangemouth,  which  is  4  miles  up  the  Frith  from 
Bofroi#ftclurinefs,  and  the  entry  into  the  great  canal.  At 
prefent  Borrowftounnefs  has  Ihtlc  trade  bat  what  arifes  from 
the  cfoarsW*  fait  works. 

»Ti^<r/.-=^cfvams  wages  ^rc  very  high  here.  A  fcrvant 
mao»  who  would  have  been  fatisfied,  46^  yeax^s  ago,  with 
L.  I  :  5  :  o  half  yearly,  now  gets  L.  3  or  L.  4  half  year- 
ly, and  fometimes  more.  A  fervaiit  maid,  who  got  10  or 
1 1  fhiUings  per  half  year,  40  or  50  years  ago,  now  gets  30, 
4Q,  and  fometimes  50  (hillings  in  the  half  year.  A  day-la- 
bourer gets  I  8«  or  1  s.  2  d.  a-day,  who  was  formerly  hired  for 
5  d.  in  winter,  and  7  d.  in  fummer,  per  day.  The  price  of 
provifions  has  riien  in  proportion. 

SAj^m/.— The  ftipend  is  precifely  8  chalders  of  viftual,  or 
Ih  800  Scots.  The  glebe  is  5  Scots  acres,  valued  at  30  (hil- 
lings per  acre.  The  Duke  of  Hamilton  is  patron.  This  living 
would  have  fupported  a  family  50  years  ago  better  than 
L.  120  Sterling  could  do  here  now. 

Eminent  Men. — The  only  eminent  perfon  born  in  tWs  pa- 

ri(h 


^  oo  StatyUcal  Acccf/tnt 

tifk  was  Colonel  James  Gardner,  lulled  ft  th<e  ua/ottwat9 
battle  of  Preftonjpans  in  1 745,  whofe  remarkable  conyerfion, 
vith  many  interefting  particulars  of  a  life  and  chara£lery  n^ 
lefs  eminent  for  natural  endowments  than  foir  th^  pra£Uce  of 
every  Chriftian  virtue,  are  detailed  in  the  veil  known  Me- 
xoolrs  of  him  publiflxed  by  bis  friend  D,r  Ifoddridge. 

Antiquities ^—rS^^K.  celebrated  Roman  work  called  ^Grf&smV 
Dyke^  tetnunates  in  this  parifli^  it  is  fi^id,  at  a  place  called 
Waltown.  About  50  years  ago,  in  digging  up  i^ooes  tp  build 
a  park  dyket  axes,,  pots,  and  ieveral  vafes,  eyidently  Roman j 
were  found,  and  fent  to  the  Advocates  Library  at  £4inburgh| 
where  they  ftill  are.  In  this  parifli  ft^nds  the  ancient  fort^  or 
^arrifoo,  of  Blackneis,  one  of  the  oldeft  fort^  IQ  S^p^laqds  wd 
one  of  the  four  that  is  to  be  kept  in  repair  by  the  irti^les  of 
Union.  It  has  a  governor,  lieutenant-governor,  2  gunners, 
X  fergeant,  2  corporal^i  an4  IX  or  1 5  privates,  l^i^  btt4i  14 
the  form  of  a  diig* 


tfUM. 


PARISH   OF  COYttON. 


Name,  Siiuation,  Extent ^  SpSf^  and  Surfaal 

THERE  it  a  traditioo/though  it  is  believed  veiy  ill 
^  _  fotindedt  t^at  r^oyltpn  derj^^  its  tiaiae  from  %  K^ng 
pdl^d  CpUus,  whq  ^as  killed  in  Mtlp.^P  tbc  n^igUbourhoo^^ 
and  buried  a]f|  the.  church  of  CpyUon..  Thif  parifh  13  ip  tbc 
diftrift  of  the  CQUHty  of  j^iif  ^railed  i^*,  in  the  prefbyteiy  of 
Air,  and  fynod  of  GlaTgow  and  Air.  It  is  7  miles  long,  and^ 
at  an  average,  about  2  broad.  It  is  bounded  on  the  (buth  by 
^^^W9l^f^%^  0^  t^?;  caft  inf  Staift  on  t^  porth  bj  Tavbo}* 
ton  ^  §t  ^y^x,  ^n  ^Jic  vcft  by  Air,  and  on  the  fouth- 
wft  ^.jpatifirjple.  ,.Tbc  (oiJ[  pf  the  grater  part  of  the  parift 
ii  dayjy^  wbijch,  Fboii  propjsrijr  cultivate ^,  ^  ai^modantly  fcr- 
tfe  ..T^  hoi^pw  p(ar.  the  rii[prs  o|"  Aif,  ^  of  BJylf »  arc  fer- 
tile anil  djcxf  I  Thi;  pv?<^ii  «tgj:^a?l*  ui  %9  ow  (arm*  how^ 
c^cfffin  t^  (bush  if  nther  high  ^pynd. 

P^uUtkn. — Forty  years  ago,  the  farms  were  in  general 
fmall  and  run-rig,  which  was  neceilarily  an  obftacle  to  im- 
provement. The  proprietors  at  that  time  occupied  their  own 
lands,  and  kept  them  in  grafs,  which,  of  courfe,  diminifhed 
:hc  i^umbcr  pf  inhabitants.     The  lands  being  afterwards 

properly 


%c%  StayHcal  Aeiount 

properly  divided,  were  let  in  larger  farms,  and  populatlcm 
again  increafed.  The  number  of  inhabitants,  as  returned  to 
Dr  Webfter,  was  pyi}  atpreTent  they  atfbunt  to  667,  For 
fhefe  laft  eight  years,  the  annual  average  of  baptiims  is  about 
15;  of  marriages  9  i  andofburiab  i^.,  .  ,  , 

p0fr.^-io  or  12  poor  perfbns  are  generally  fupported  by  the 
fei&on*  The  fonds  are  about  L.'j;o:&er&ng'at  interefty  and 
the  weekly  coUeAions  made  at  the  church. 

Rmt. — The  valued  rent  of  the  parifh  is  L.  333oSc<»ts; 
the  real  rent  about  L.  2000  Sterling.  .  The  number  of  herU 
tors  is  9 ;  2  of  whom  refide  in  the  parifh. 

Church  and  Stipend.^^Tht  churbli,  which  Is  an  old  preben* 
dai^.  was  repaired  about  16  years  ago.  The  manfe  was  built 
iti  i7«;o.  The  ftip^nd'is  5  chalders  of  visual,  half  meal  half 
Isariey,  500  merks  of  money,  and  160  merks  fbV  tommunioii 
elements. 

Mi/ceNaneotu  Olfinrntlatis^T^t  z\r  h  li^holcToTOt.  There 
ate  three  confiderable  lakes»  particularly  one  called  Martor- 
ham,  a  lAile  long,  and  in  Tome  parts  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
broad.  Lime,  marie,  and  feveral  ftrata  of  coal,'  are  lately 
'fdurid.  '  Coal  is  the  only  fud  ufed  In  the  pari  A.  iThere  are 
Tcveral  plantations  f  Both  they  and  rhie  natural  w6ods  are  la 
a  thriving  ftate.  A  labourer's  wages  are  I  s.  per  diy.  All  the 
inhabitants  of  this  parilh  belong  to  the  Eftabliflied  Church* 


^\JH- 


.   tf  BailmtriieM^^  )^| 


NUMBER    Xltt. 

Parish  of  balLantrae^ 


Situation,  Extent,  (sfc. 

THE  psurifh  of  Ballantrae  is  fituated  in  the  eztremitj  oi 
the  county  of  Ayr,  towards  the  fouth*,  and  inarches 
with  the  ihire  of  Wigton  on  the  fouth  and  fouth-eaft.  It  is 
nearly  tea  miles  fquare.  It  is  bounded  on  the  north  and 
north*eaft  by  the  parifh  of  Colmonell  \  on  the  ibuth  and 
fottth-eafi  by  the  pariihes  of  New  Luce  and  Inch,  in  the  fhire 
of  Wigton ;  and  by  the  fea  on  the  weft  and  fouth>weft^  hav« 
mg  an  extent  of  more  than  ten  miks  of  fea  coaft. '  The 
fliore,  excepting  for  about  two  miles  oppofite  to  the^  village 

•  Both  the  parlft  of  Ballantrae,  and  tbe  neighbonring  pat* 
tHh  of  Colmonell,  wcic  originally  conncaed  wim  the  prcfbyu- 
ry  of  Ayr,  and  fynod  of  Glafgow  and  Ayr ;  but  were  disjoined 
a  little  time  alter  the  Revolution,  on  account  of  their  great  dif- 
tance  from  the  feat  of  PrcAyiery,  and  annexed  to  the  pre(byte* 
ry  of  Stranraer  and  fyaod  of  Galloway.  The  parifh  takes  its 
name  from  the  village  of  fiallanirae,  which  is  evidently  of  Gae- 
lic original,  and  fignifies,  in  that  language,  the  town  upon  or^ 
above  the  fhore ;  alluding  to  its  fituation  on  a  gentle  afeent  im« 
mediately  from  the  fliore:  And  this  maybe  the  reafon  why, 
though  only  a  village,  it  always  obtains  the  name  of  the  «  town 
«  of  Ballantrae/^  while  other  villages  through  the  country,  not 
\tL  fimilar  fuuationsy  are  generally  called  CUcham. 


of  Ballantrae,  is  in  generid  high  and  rocky,  having  a  tremeihi 
dous  furf  or  fwell  beating  againft  it,  when  the  wind  blowi 
from  the  weft  and  north-weft;  Oppofite  to  this  coaft  the 
fea  appears  land-locked,  for  a  moft  fpacioul  bay  of  nearly  25 
or  30  leagues  diameter  is  formed  by  part  of  the  coaft  of  Gal- 
loway, the  moft  part  of  the  two  coanties  of  Down  and  An- 
trim ih  Ireland,  tile  call  lidaft  t)f  Afgyfefliire,  Ud  put  of 
Sumbartonfhire,  and  by  the  whole  ftretch  of  coaft  along  the 
ihire  of  Ayr  for  about  80  miles  ;  all  this  vaft  extent  of  coaft 
is  eaiily  difcernible  by  the  naked  eye  ih  a  clear  day,  together 
with  the  iflands  of  Sana,  Annan,  Lamlafh,  Bute,  and  the  two 
fmall  iflands  of  Cumbray*  About  four  or  five  leagues  north* 
weft  from  Ballantrae  ftands  the  Illand  of  Elfay :  It  is  a  moft 
1[}eautiful  rock  of  a  conical  figure,  covered  on  the  top  with 
iidith  and  a  little  grafs.  It  is  not  inhabited  by  any  human 
treature  }  but  afibrds  ref age  to  an  nnmtnfe  number  of  fci 
ifo'wls  who  breed  on  it,  and  is  ftocked  with  rabbits  and  a  few 
goats;  It  is  the  property  of  the  Earl  of  CaffiUis ;  and  ii 
^rented  ^t  L.  25  St'erllng  a  yeiir,  the  tenants  paying  their  rent 
frOm  the  ft^hers  of  the  difterent  fea  fowls,  from  the  iblaii 
geefe  that  breed  bii  it,  and  the  rabbit  fltins.  It  afibl'dk  a  fide 
objedl  all  found  that  coaft,  and  a  mark  for  ftiips  either  com* 
ing  into,  or  going  out  of  the  Frith  of  Clyde.  There  is  an 
old  ruinous  caftle  on  it,  about  a  third  part  up  the  rock, 
faid  by  Campbell,  hi  his  Political  Survey  of  Britaioi  to  have 
been  built  by  Philip  IL  of  Spain,  but  on  what  authority  is 
not  known.  There  are  four  Ught-houfes,  one  at  the  ne# 
built  harbour  of  Portpatrick,  another  at  the  town  of  Donag-^ 
hadee,  a  third  on  the  Moll  of  Cantyre,  and  a  fcmrth  on  the 
iiland  of  Cambray ;  and  it  might  be  of  fiiigular  ufe  to  the 
towns  of  Air,  Irvine,  and  8altcoftt9>  which  carry  on  a  confi- 
derable  trade  with  Ireland,  and  the  towns  on  the  weft  6f 
England,  if  a  fifth  llght-houfe  was  creeled .  on  a  fmall  bw 

iiland. 


€f  Ballantraei  105 

yhad,  talied  the  Lady  lite,  in  the  bay  of  Air.  The  fhore 
aU  along  that  port  of  the  coaft  is  flat  and  Tandy  \  the  bay  is 
deepy  and  the  entrance  into  the  harbours  ftrait  and  difficult. 

Sufface^  &f7,  (sTf.^^The  land  in  this  parifli  riTes  with  a 
gradual  flop  from  the  fliore  to  the  tops  of  the  mountainst 
which  form  part  of  that  extenCve  range  of  hills  that  ftretches 
acrofs  the  fouth  of  Scotland,  almoft  from  the  Irifli  fea  to  the 
Frith  of  Forth  beyond  Edinburgh.    Near  the  fliore  the  foil 
in  general  is  a  light,  dry,  hazle  mould,  upon  a  gravel  bottom* 
and  for  the  moft  part  but  thin.    The  furface  is  much  diver- 
fified  with  heights  and  hollows,  interfefled  with  a  great  num« 
ber  of  little  ftreams  of  water  defcending  from  the  hills.    AH 
beyond  the  mountains  is  a  foft  mofly  ground  covered  with 
heathy  and  a  thin  long  grafs  called  ling  by  the  country  peo- 
ple.   Even  below  the  mountains,  heath  is  the  prevsMling  ap*' 
pearance,  excepting  where  the  ground  has  been  in  tillage,  or 
immediately  upon  the  fliore,  where  there  Is  fome  very  fine 
natural  grais.    The  ground  is  in  general  adapted  to  the 
breeding  and  feedilig  of  black  cattle  and  fliecp,  and  is  uni- 
versally applied  to  that  purpofe,  excepting  the  grain  which 
the  Inhabitants  taife  for  thtir  own  ufe. 

Pepu/athn  and  condition  cf  tie  Pecf/e» — ^Thcrc  are  770  in 
the  parifli,  and  of  thcfe  about  300  are  in  the  village.  The 
annual  number  of  births  is  i8i  The  number  of  deaths 
cannot  be  fo  well  afcertained,  as  it  is  but  of  late  years  that  a 
regiftcr  of  them  was  kept  at  all,  and  even  tbat  not  accurate- 
ly, and  the  marriages  ftill  lefs.  The  marriages,  as  would  be 
cxpcAedy  from  the  fituation  and  habits  of  life  of  the  peo- 
ple in  the  country,  are,  in  general,  prolific.  ln(tanccs  are 
to  be  met  with  of  a  woman  bearing  fourteen  children 
to  one  hufband.  The  average  of  births  to  each  mar- 
riage may  be  taken  at  fix.  The  inbabitaats  are  lodged 
VoL.L  O  in 


io6  Statl/iical  Atcma 

ID  about  190  dwelHng  hoafes,  which  is  t  littk  more  than  4 
perfons  to  each  heufe.  One  hundred  and  thirteen  of  the 
houics  are  in  what  is  called  the  coontry}  the  other  77  make 
the  village  or  town  of  Ballantrae.  The  inhabitants  of  both 
town  and  country  en^oy  the  comforts  of  fociety,  in  propor- 
lion  to  their  circumf^ances,  in  a  fuperior  degree  to  others  im 
fimilar  conditions  of  life.  Thefe  fatis&fUons  are  owing  X» 
various  caules,  all  contributing  their  mite  to  render  them 
healthy,  eafy,  and  contentcd|  and,  in  general,  chearfiiL 

Climate^  Dtfeafts^  C5V. — ^Their  local  fituatioa,  a  high,  open, 
and  dry  ioil,  with  upwards  of  10  miles  of  fea  coaft,  ezpofcd 
to  the  I'alubrious  breezes  of  the  weftern  ocean^  together  with 
thctr  rural  employments,  renders  the  inhabitants  uncommon- 
ly healthy.  Epidemical  diflempers,  excepting  the  common 
diforders  incident  to  chHdren,  are  unknown.  Deaths,  except 
from  particular  accidents,  are  confined  to  infancy  and  old  age* 
There  are  a  greater  number  to  be  met  with  In  this  pariflr 
dying  above  80  years  of  age  than  in  moft  others.  It  is  ro  be 
lamented  that  innoculation  for  the  fmalUpox  is  not  more 
'praftifed.  There  are  very  few  families  through  the  countrf 
part  of  the  parifh,  but  what  have  a  piece  of  ground  alonf 
with  their  houfe  and  yard,  that  enables  them  to  keep  one  or 
more  cows,  and  two  or  three  fheep.  The  young  of  their 
cows,  when  a  year  old,  fells  for  30  s.  or  50  s*  which  pays  tvjro- 
thirds  of  their  rent.  With  the  produce  of  their  little  piece 
of  ground,,  f urnifliing  bread  and  potatoes,  and  the  milk  of  a 
cow,  together  with  their  own  work,  they  are  enabled  to  live 
comfortably,  to  clothe  and  educate  their  children  decently, 
and  to  aili(^  in  fetting  them  out  in  the  world.  The  inhabi- 
tants of  the  village,  which  lies  clofe  upon  the  (horc,  enjoy 
advantages  peculiar  to  their  fituation. 

Renty 


rf  SaltaMrat.  ^cj 

Xfni,  Produce,  {5V.-«The  valued  rent  of  the  parifli  is 
L.355I  :  I  :6  Scots.  It  is  believed  that  the  real  rent|  in- 
cluding fifheries,  is  not  much  fhort  of  L«2coo  Sterling. 
The  rent  of  araUe  land  is  from  one  to  two  guineas  an  acre> 
and  of  pafture,  in  its  natural  fiate,  lo  s.  and  1 2  s.  an  acre. 
The  farms  are  of  very  unequal  rent  and  extent,  being  from 
L.  10  to  L.I  15  a  year.  About  12,000  flieep,  3000  black 
cattle,  a  few  fcores  of  goats,  and  perhaps  200  horfes,  are  kept 
io-the  parifli ;  and  600  or  800  acres  of  the  ground  may  be 
employed  in  tillage.  Almoft  th«  onfy  crop  is  oats,  with  an 
acre  or  two  of  barley  to  a  family,  fome  peafe,  and  generally 
as  many  potatoes  as  ferve  the  family  twice  a  day  for  7  or  8 
months  in  the  year.  Few  or  no  cottagers  are  now  employed 
by  the  formers  of  this  pariOi  in  agriculture,  nor  have  been 
for  a  long  while  paft.  A  cottager's  benefit,  (as  it  is  called)  is 
commcmly  from  L.  10  to  L.  15  a  year ;  the  wages  of  a  hired 
fervant  is  from  L.  6  to  L.  7  a  year.  Farmers  who  have  graz« 
ing  ianns,  upon  which  they  do  not  refide  themfelves,  are  o« 
Uiged  to  employ  cottagers  to  take  care  of  the  (lock  upon 
them;  and  it  is  confidered  as  fo  definable  a  iituation,  that 
thofe  farmers  who  have  occafion  for  married  herds  to  take 
care  of  their  ftock,  have  it  generally  in  their  power  to  make 
a  choice.  The  black  cattle  are  of  a  fmali  handfome  kind  : 
'J'he  cows,  when  fattened,  weigh  from  18  to  27  ftonic.  The 
iheep,  when  billed  off  the  common  «pen  pafture,  at  2  and  3 
years  old,  weigh  from  30  to  50  lb.  The  chief  ftaple  com- 
modity is  ndling  young  cattle  and  Aeep.  The  young  cattle 
are  for  the  moft  part  fold  to  the  grazier  when  ht^lffums^  that 
is,  when  two  years  and  a  half  old,  and  are  changed  from 
hand  to  hand  till  they  are  four  or  five  years  old,  when  they 
are  fent  up  to  St.  Faith  and  Hampton  fairs  in  England,  and 
make  part  of  what  are  called  the  fine  &€oU  galloways.  The 
ikeep  arc  fold  at  two  and  three  years  old,  to  fupply  the  de- 

luaods 


to8  Staif/Hcai  Account 

mands  of  the  mercantile  and  manufa£lni1ng  ipPm  thrpDgh 
lanarki  Renfrcwi  and  Airfliijrcs. 

The  wool  of  the  fbeep  on  thofe  farms  that  lie  between 
the  tops  of  the  mountains  and  the  fea  is  generally  Terj 
gocd^  and  of  the  Ihcrt  carding  wool ;  what  is  beyond 
them  is  more  coarfe  and  ihaggy.  It  fells  from  7  s*  6  d.  to 
10  s.  6f\.  per  flone  of  17  lb.  Scots  weight,  equal  to  25! 
lb.  £ngli(h  weight  \  the  average  price  through  the  whole  be- 
ing 9  s.  for  252  lb.  which  is  nearly  j^^i,  per  lb.  This 
ihcws  the  propriety  of  the  farmers  paying  more  attention  to 
their  wool  than  is  generally  done  \  and  it  is  believed  that 
there  are  few  iituations  nK)re  favourable  to  an  unprovemcnt 
in  that  article  than  the  firll  mentioned  clafs  of  farms  in  this 
parifli*  Both  the  foil  and  the  climate  are  favourable.  The 
foil  is  light,  dryi  and  kindly,  affording  firm  footing,  a  dry 
bed|  and  proper  nourifhmeot  to  the  iheep;  the  cool  re* 
f refiling  breezes  from  the  fea  during  the  fummer,  prevent  the 
bad  eifeAs  of  immoderate  heat  upon  the  new  fhom  w<x>l$ 
and  the  ground  during  the  winter  feaibn  is  very  feldom  en- 
tirely covered  with  fnow  above  two  days  together.  If  the 
farmers  would  take  the  trouble  to  introduce,  from  time  to 
time,  fome  good  wooled  ranos,  and  gradually  cut  off  any 
coarfe  wooled  ewes  that  may  be  in  their  flocks,  it  is  poifible 
to  improve  their  wool  to  fuch  a  degree,  as  that  inflead  of 
the  very  beft  of  it  being  now  fold  at  los.  6d.  it  might 
be  fold  at  nearly  three  times  the  price.  This  would  nearly 
double  the  profits  of  their  flieep  on  the  whole,  and  at  al- 
moft  no  trouble  nor  ezpcncc ;  and  it  is  perhaps  the  moft  be- 
neficial of  all  improvements  that  they  ever  have  it  in  their 
power  to  make  upon  their  farms. 


tf  Sailanlrai^    .  loj^ 

Rfods^-^Til  of  late  ycaw  there  were  few  roads  through  the 
ihire  of  Air  that  ^Rrcre  barely  palfable.  About  the  year  1774 
an  aft  of  Parliament  wa^  obtained,  commuting  the  ftatute  la- 
bour for  an  annual  payment,  at  the  rate  of  25  s.  for  every 
L.  100  Scots  of  valued  rent.  Through  the  interior,  morQ 
populous,  and  arable  parts  of  the  country  the  roads  werfi 
foon  made  \  and  by  the  alEftance  of  government  and  a  |oll» 
one  good  road  has  been  made  through  this  parifh  :  But  it  if 
little  more  than  a  road  of  communication.  The  parifli  wants 
crofs  roads  in  different  direAions,  in  order  to  enable  them  to 
lead  lime  in  carts,  of  whic|i  there  is  plenty  within  half  a 
mile  of  the  extremity  of  the  pariih  :  It  is  fold  at  the  mode- 
rate price  of  7I  d.  a  boll  or  a  Wincbefier  bufhels,  and  70  or 
80  of  the(c  bolls  arc  found  perfeAly  fufficient  for  an  acre  oC 
this  thin,  light,  dry  foil.  Some  fmall  experiments  have  beei% 
made  in  liming,  which  have  fucceeded  to  the  utmoft  expec^ 
tatlon.  There  ai«  perhaps  from  10  to  12,000  acres  of  kndl 
in  the  parifli  that  could  be  limcdi  and  made  fit  for  fock  an^ 
fcythe ;  and  the  ruccefsful  attempts  of  indiyiduals,  it  is  to  bft 
hoped,  will  in  time  encourage  the  generality  to  follow  th^ 
example. 

Ftjberies. — A  pretty  confiderable  river,  named  Ardftinchar| 
runs  for  about  25  miles  through  the  country,  and  empties  it« 
fclf  into  the  fea  at  the  village  of  Ballantrae ;  but  it  is  rapi(|. 
and  {haUow,  and  can  only  admit  of  fmall  boats.  At  the 
mouth  of  this  river  there  is  a  confiderable  falmon  fifliery, 
which  yields  a  xtni  of  above  L.  80  a  year.  The  falmon  are 
thought  as  good  as  any  in  Scotland,  and  fell  upon  the  fpot  at 
1  \  d.  the  lb.  and  it  is  but  very  lately  they  were  more  thai^ 
id.  About  20  years  ago  there  were  great  flaoals  of  excej- 
lent  herrings  that  came  upon  the  coaft  at  the  end  of  harveft 
and  be^nning  of  winter,  (ince  that  time  they  appear  only  m 


1 1 9  Siatiftieal  Jcaunt 

the  fpring,  about  a  league  off;  and  though  thejr  ve  then  fiir 
from  being  good^  they  are  (old  to  the  country  people  in  the 
neighbourhood  from  20  d.  to  2  s.  a  hundred.  There  were 
Ibrmerty  great  quantities  of  haddocks  and  whitings  at  the 
fame  feafon,  but  for  a  few  years  paft  the  prerailiog  fiiherj  is 
cod,  with  fome  (kate  and  ling.  The  cod  and  ling  is  Ibid 
from  4  d.  or  6  d. ;  the  (kate  from  1  d.  to  i  s.  a  piece,  accor- 
Ang  to  their  (ize  and  qualities  i  finaller  fiflij  as  haddocks,  &c. 
from  6  d.  to  I  s.  a  dozen. 

Prici  of  Provifions.^^ThoMgh  the  price  of  provifions  15 
greatly  increafed  within  thef<^  20  years,  it  cannot  yet  be  laid 
to  be  high.  Beef,  mutton,  lamb,  and  pork,  (of  which  lafl: 
Aere  is  a  great  deal  more  reared  than  ufcd  in  the  paiilh) 
formerly  fold  at  2  s.  or  3  s.  a  ftone,  now  fdls  at  3  s.  or  4  s.  z 
fione  $  hens  6  d, ;  chickens  2  d. }  eggs  2  d.  a  dozen ;  ikim- 
flied  milk  cheefe  4  s.  a  ftone,  Scots  weight  (24  oz.  to  the  lb)  i 
butter  xos.  8d.  ditto,  of  which  there  is  not  a  great  deal 
ft)ld,  as  the  praAice  of  fmearing  their  fheep  with  tar  and 
{mtter  before  the  winter  fets  in  tmiyerfally  prevails  over  aS 
the  country. 

^  Church. — ^The  living  of  Ballantrae  is  L.  500  Scots  of  mo- 
ney and  three  chalders  of  viAual,  with  a  houfe  and  glebe 
worth  L.  12  or  L.  14  Sterling  yearly.  The  prcfcnt  incum- 
bent was  ordained  in  1 77 1,  and  is  the  third  minifter  from 
the  Revolution.  His  two  predeceflbrs  each  enjoyed  the 
office  about  40  years.  He  is  married,  and  has  a  fon  and  a 
daughter.  The  church  is  at  the  north-weft  extremity  of  the 
parifh,  in  the  village  of  Ballantrae,  it  was  built  in  1604,  and 
the  manfc  in  1736,  and  the  repairs  upon  the  manfe  and  offi- 
ces fince  that  time  has  coft  the  heritors  little  more  than  L.  ao 
Sterling. 


'  tf  Battararaei\  iif 

iW.-^There  Is  an  excellent  eftaUilbment  of  t  free  fchad 
It  Ballantrae,  for  educating  the  poor*  A  native  of  the  pa^ 
riib|  about  40  or  50  years  ago,  left  Tu.^ooy  the  intereft  of 
which  fum  was  appointed  to  run  on,  till  there  was  a  fuffl^ 
dent  fuoi  to  build  a  fchool-houfe,  and  a  dwelling-houfe  foF 
the  mafter,  and  from  henceforward  to  pay  the  fchoolmafter  % 
and  whoever  fhould  be  appointed  to  the  ofiSce,  was  to  bQ 
bound  to  keep  and  leave  the  fchool  and  houfe  in  repair.  Ac« 
cordingly  a  good  houfe  was  built,  and  a  large  garden  fet  off« 
The  patron  of  the  partfh  is  patron  of  the  fchool ;  and  by  the 
deed  he  is  entitled  to  prefent  two-thirds  of  the  fcholars,  and 
the  kirk-feflion  the  other  third.  The  matter  of  this  fchool 
is  alfo  chofen  pariih  fchoolmafter,  the  falary  of  which  is  a- 
bout  L.  6  Sterling  a  year  :  He  is  alfo  the  feffion  clerk  and 
precentor  for  the  time«  All  which  offices,  and  the  perquiw 
files  of  them,  together  with  the  value  of  the  houfe  and  gar- 
den, makes  the  place  worth  rather  moit  than  L«  40  Ster- 
ling yearly.  The  confequence  of  this  is,  that  there  is  gene- 
rally a  well  qualified  fchoolmafter,  who  is  able  to  teach  the 
languages,  and  the  feveral  branches  of  education  fitting  for 
bufincfs*  From  the  nature  of  the  fchool,  and  its  fituation  ia 
a  country  place,  the  number  of  the  fcholars  varies  according 
to  theXealbn  of  the  year.  In  fummer,  when  many  of  the 
poor  fcholars  and  country^  lads  retire  to  herding  and  laborious 
vork,  the  number  of  fcholars  do  not  exceed  25  or  30.  In 
winter  there  are  frequently  upwards  of  50  attending  the 
fchooL 

jiiiiiquifiei^'^^Tht  only  ruins  within  the  parifh  is  the  re- 
mains of  an  old  church  at  the  north-eaft  extremity  of  the 
yxtiQx ;  it  feems  to  have  been  formerly  the  parifli  church, 
and  deicrted  for  the  prefent  one,  as  being  more  commodious 
for  the  inhabitants  s  it  is  called  Kirkcudbright.    And  a  large 

old 


rkB  StMl/lkal  Accmi 

old  caftle  or  dwelling  adjoining  to  the  tillage,  and  fituated 
«ipon  a  high  rock }  it  is  now  within  the  miliifter't  graft  glebe, 
ilboiit  a  centtiry  ago  it  belonged  to  the  Lords  of  Bargesy. 
There  are  no  veftiges  about  it  lo  difcover  when  it  was  buHt, 
or  by  whom  inhabited.  The  minifter  has  been  told,  that 
the  prefent  Lord  Hailes  takes  hotice  of  it  in  fomc  of  his  traAs 
opopr  antiquities. 

MtfctUatiiwii  Ot/ervatt&ns.'^The  inhabitants  labour  undff 
difadvantages.  Their  fituation  might  be  meliorated.  For 
the  common  occafions  of  life  there  are  weavers,  tailors,  (hoe* 
makers,  ftc.  There  is  no  manu&dures  in  the  parifli  to  in* 
creafe  the  capital  ftock  and  promote  circulation.  Manufac- 
tures in  carpeting,  (lockings^  bonnets,  and  iheep  (kins  might 
probably  be  eftabllflied  with  advantage.  They  have  plenty 
of  peat  and  turf  for  fuel  (  but  coals  are  at  the  diftance  of  i; 
or  1 6  miles  by  land,  and  when  brought  by  (ea  are  fubje^t  to 
a  duty  of  3  s.  4d.  a  ton.  The  circutnftances  of  the  people 
have  been  Increafing  iince  the  year  1782.  That  ieafon  of 
lirarcity,  inftead  of  affedting  them  in  the  manner  it  did  other 
parts  of  Scotland,  rather  tended  to  better  them.  There  was 
an  exceffive  growth  of  grafs  In  the  fummer  of  that  year,  and 
the  crops  in  thu  parifh  and  to  the  fouthward  are  in  general 
early.  That  year  they  were  reaped  before  the  froft  and  the 
fnow  fet  in*  The  great  plenty  of  hay  made  the  cattle  fell  tO 
advantage,  and  the  almoft  entire  lofs  of  the  crops  in  the  in- 
land counties,  occaGoned  the  inhabitants  of  thefe  counties  to 
come  to  the  fouth  and  weft  for  feed  for  the  enfuing  feafnn. 
This  gave  them  an  idea  of  a  com  trade,  which,  together  with 
the  increafing  demand  for  live  cattle  iince  that  period,  and 
confequent  rife  in  their  price,  has  made  a  great  alteration  for 
the  better  in  the  fartocrs  circumftanccs,  and  given  a  fpirit  cf 

improvement 


rf  Ballantrae.  113 

ioiprovement  and  demand  for  farms  in  a  tenfold  degree  to 
what  it  ufed  to  be. 


The  fhores  abound  with  plenty  of  fine  broad  leaved  rich 
(ea*weed  or  wreck  for  manure  \  but  there  is  very  little  of  it 
ufed  for  kelp  on  the  coaft  of  this  pariQi.  The  animals 
are  thofe  common  to  the  weft  of  Scotland^  hares^  foxes,  rab- 
bits, polecats,  wild  cats,  groufe,  panndges,  plovers,  wild 
ducks,  and  wild  geefe.  The  migratory  kind  obferved  are  the 
woodcock,  cuckoo,  ftarling,  fwallow,  &c^  Among  the  mi- 
gratory animals  may  be  mentioned  the  failfifli,  which  appears 
upon  this  coaft  the  firft  or  fecond  week  of  June,  and  conti- 
nues  for  three  or  four  weeks.  They  meafure  from  20  to  30 
feet  long.  The  people  of  the  village  kill  them  with  har- 
poons tor  the  oil,  which  is  made  of  the  liver.  The  liver 
of  a  good  fifii  will  yield  from  40  to  50  gallons  of  oil,  which 
they  fell  to  tanners,  &c.  and  nie  part  of  it  themselves  to  burn 
in  place  of  candles. 

There  art  feveral  mineral  fprkigs  in  the  parifli,  which  have 
been  found  beneficial  in  fcorbutic  and  other  cutaneous  difea- 
fes,  and  in  complaints  of  the  ftomach  arifiog  from  acidity 
and  want  of  digeftion..    . 

There  is  no  perfon  in  the  pariih  conne£led  with  the  law, 
not  even  a  conftable  or  flieriff's  officer,  nor  has  there  been 
any  in  the  memory  of  the  oldeft  inhabitant.  There  is  no 
juftice  of  peace  in  the  parifh,  nor  within  many  miles  of  it  \ 
and  the  (hcriff's  court  is  at  the  diftance  of  36  miles.  There 
is  no  furgeon  or  phyfician  within  a  dozen  miles,  and  it  is 
doubtful  whether  half  a  dozen  fuch  parifhes  would  give  bread 
to  one. 

Vol.  r.  P  N  U  Rt 


1 14  Statical  Jccauni 

NUMBER     XIV. 

PARISH   OF  TERREGLES^ 

By  tie  R0V.  Mr  John  )B[bnm£ot. 


Nsfftif  Situation^  Extent ^  Soil. 

TERREGLES  is  derived  from  Terra  Ecclefiaey  or  Terre 
d*Eglife.  It  is  fituated  in  the  ftewartry  of  Kircud- 
brighty  and  in  the  prefbytery  of  Dumfries^  6  miles  from  the 
fca>coft»  It  is  about  5  miles  long,  and  3  broad  ^  bounded  by 
Holywood  on  the  eaft,  Troqueer  on  the  fouth,  Lochrotton  on 
the  weft,  and  Iron-Gray  on  the  north.  It  confifts  of  a  losvn 
and  fandy  foil.  Every  kind  of  grain  ufual  in  Scotland  is 
produced  in  perfection.  Thc^  rent  of  land,  in  generali  is  from 
12  to  25  fliillings  per  acre.  There  are  not  above  12  princi- 
pal farmers  employed  in  huibaqdry. 

Population. — ^The  number  of  inhabitants  in  1790  was  5x0. 
The  return  to  Dr  Webfter  being  397,  there  is,  for  the  nam* 
ber,  a  coailderable  increafe.    There  are  at  prefent, 

Under  10  years  of  age  -                  -  ^o 

Between  10  and  20  -                     -  ^6 

Between  20  and  50  -                  •  1/^6 

Between  50  and  70  -                      -  2p8 

Between  70  and  100  «                     ^  30 

510 
There 


cf  TerregUs.  115 

There  are  feveral  fecedersi  and  a  few  Roman  Catholics* 
None  of  the  inhabitants  have  emigratcdj  nor  have  any  been 
banifhed  from  it,  in  the  memory  of  man. 

Church  and  Stipend. — ^The  church  is  of  the  Gothic  fiile, 
and  was  buik  above  200  years  ago.  The  value  of  the  ftipsndj 
including  the  glebe,  is  between  L.  65  and  L.  ^oper  annum, 
according  to  the  rife  or  fall  in  jthe  price  of  vi^hiaL.  part  of  it 
being  paid  in  meal  and  barley.  The  Duke  of  Queenfberry 
is  patron. 

Mifcillaneous  Obfervations,^^ As  this  parifli  lies  near  the 
town  of  Dumfries,  living  is  very  expenfive.  Fuel  is  extreme- 
ly dear.  Goal  is  brought  by  land  27  or  28  miles;  and  the 
price  of  coal  tranfported  by  fea  is  as  dear  as  what  is  brought 
by  knd.  Feat,  too,  is  at  a  great  diftance.  The  expences  of 
living  arc  nearly  double  what  they  were  formerly.  The  wa- 
ges of  domeftic  fervants  and  day^-labourers  are  alio  confi- 
dcrably  raifed.  There  is  a  falmon-fifhery  on  the  fide  of 
the  river  Nlth,  oppofite  to  the  foot  of  the  pariflt,  from  which 
the  minifler  of  Terreglcs  draws  tithe  in  money.  There  is 
an  old  ruin  in  this  parifh  called  the  College  of  Linciudei^ 


NUM- 


ti6  Sfaiifiical  Account 

NUMBER     XV. 

PARISH   OF  EDROM. 

Bj  ike  Rev.  Mr  William  Rbdpatr. 


Namct  Situation^  Surface^  and  Air, 

THE  anticn*'  natne  of  this  parifli  was  Etherhatn}  derived 
from  ktber,  the  original  name  of  Whitewater,  and 
Ham^  a  village  on  its  banks.  Edrom  is  iituated  in  Berwick- 
fhire,  prefbytcry  of  Chirnfide,  and  fynod  of  Merfe  and  TiTiot« 
dalt'.  It  is  about  lo  Engliih  miles  long  and  6  broadw  It  is 
bounded  by  the  parifhes  of  Dunfei  Langton,  Polworth,  Fog- 
go,  Swmton,  Whitlome,  Hilton,  Chirnfide,  Prefton,  aod 
Buukle.  The  appearance  of  the  country  is  flat,  except  to- 
WiifiN  the  Lammermuir  or  Cheviot  Hills.  A  great  part  of 
thr  ioil  is  fertile,  and  produces  good  corn  when  well  cultl« 
V.itetl ;  part  inooriQi  and  barren ;  and  part  clay  or  fiiallow. 
For.ncrly  the  air  was  moiit,  but  is  now  confiderably  dryer» 
on  account  of  the  inclofing  and  draining  every  part  of  the 
country.  Lakes  and  pools  of  water  arc  drained,  and  corn 
made  to  grow  where  the  water  ftood.  The  air  is  falubrious. 
The  beft  proof  of  this  is  the  longevity  of  the  inhabitants. 
Several  in  the  pariQi  have  attained  to  70,  80,  and  90  years  of 
fl'Tc.  The  fevers,  confumptions,  and  agues,  which  formerly 
prevailed  here,  were  thought  to  have  been  owing  to  the 
moifturc  of  the  country.     Since  it  was  drained  and  inclofed, 

fevers 


rf  Edronu  n;t 

fevers  and  agues  have  ceafed  very  much,  and  inftes^d  of  ap* 
pearing  every  year,  only  come  once  in  four  or  five  years. 

PcfulatUn. — ^Tbe  population  of  this  parifli  is  believed  to 
have  been  much  leis  50  years  ago  than  it  is  at  prefent.  Agri- 
culture was  not  then  in  that  flouriihing  (late  in  which  it  now 
IS}  and  manufactures  have  only  begun  within  thefe  15  or 
20  years.  From  the  decreet  of  locality  for  ftipcnd  in  the 
year  1733,  it  appears  that  the  number  of  catechiiable  per- 
fons  were  near  800 ;  and  the  whole,  at  that  time,  might 
amount  to  more  than  900,  or  near  looo.  About  13  years 
ago,  they  amounted  to  1 200  fouls*  The  following  tabic  will 
give  fome  idea  of  the  population  of  this  parlih  in  1790 : 

Souls                    -                    -  •           •      1336 

Males                    ...  613 

Females                    -                    •  -                723 

Annual  average  of  births                    •>  -            40 

Annual  average  of  deaths                -  -               10 

Annual  average  of  marriages              *  •                 12 

Heritors                     -                     -  .                 p 

Farmers                    -             -      •  -                 38 

Mechanics                    -                 -  -                 34 

Inhabited  houfes                -                -  -              21  x 

Peribns  in  a  family  at  an  average  .              •             6 

The  number  of  horfes  in  the  parifh  is  about  280,  of  iheep 
3000,  and  of  black  cattle  6oo. 

ManufaBuus. — ^There  is  a  paper*mill,  a  lint«mill,  and  a 
whccl-wright  manufafture.  Fifty-five  pcrfons  arc  employed 
in  the  paper-mill,  5  in  the  lint-mill,  and  about  5  or  6  in  the 
wheel-wright  manufactory.  The  wages  paid  per  day  in  the  firft 

is 


1 1 8  Statijlical  Account 

is  L.  2  : 1 5  :  o*  The  value  of  the  paper  made  yearly  amoonti 
to  L.  5000  Sterling.  When  the  wheel  manufadlure  was 
carried  on  by  James  Small,  15  journeymen  were  employed. 
He  introduced  one  of  the  beft  ploughs  made  in  Scotland/  A 
variety  of  ufeful  manufa^res,  efpecially  linen  and  woollen, 
a  cotton-miU,  (locking  manufaAiire,  and  blcachfield,  might 
be  eftabliflied.  There  is  abundance  of  fine  flieep  for  wool, 
and  a  lint-mill  is  an  encouragement  to  grow  flax.  There  is 
plenty  of  fine  water  and  corn  to  fupport  manufaAures.  Fo|^ 
hundred  pcribns  might  be  employed  by  a  linen  and  cotton- 
mill. 

Wnges^  Prices^  and  Poor,^K  labourer's  wages  is  10  d.  or 
I  s.  per  day ;  mafons  and  carpenters  is.  6  d. ;  taylors  6  d. 
and  their  meat.  The  ufual  wages  of  male  fervants  employed 
in  hufbandry  is  50s.  or  L.  3  per  half  year,  with  their  board; 
of  female  fervants  30  or  40  (liillings.  All  butcher's  meat| 
through  the  greateft  part  of  the  year,  is  3  J  d.  and  4  d.  per 
pound  i  butter  8 d.;  cheefe  3^d.  if  Scotch;  Englifli  is  5  d. 
and  6  d. ;  wheat  generally  30  Ih'tllings  per  boll  ^  oats  are  1 2| 
14,  15,  and  16  (hillings  per  boll,  Berwickfhire  meaiure;  bar- 
ley is  16,  18,  and  often  20  (hillings  per  boll.  The  number 
of  poor  in  this  parifli  receiving  alms  is  1 2.  The  annual  af- 
fefTment  laid  on  the  heritors,  tenants,  and  mechanics,  for 
their  maintenance,  is  L.  10.  Several  of  the  poor  are  like- 
wife  afiifted  by  the  weekly  colledlions,  kirk-feiBon  fund, 
hearfe  and  mortcloth  money. 

Rent  of  Land. — ^The  beft  arable  ground  is  15  and  20  (hil- 
lings, and  the  btft  pafture  25  and  30  (hillings  per  acre.  The 
rent  of  fevcral  farms  is  L.  300,  L.  400,  L.  500,  and  L.  600 
per  annum:  but  there  are  more  at  L.  100,  L.  50,  L.  30,  and 
L.  20.    The  rent  of  the  whole  lands  of  the  pari(h  is  about 

L.6493 


I 


I 


•f  Edrom.  119 

L.  6493  Sterling  per  annum.  From  a  decreet  of  localhy  ob- 
tained in  i733>  it  appears  that  the  rent  amounted  then  on^ 
to  L«  zooo  Sterling  yearly.  One  of  the  heritors  marled  and 
mcloied  his  whole  eftate,  and  the  rent  rofe  from  L.  500  to 
L.  1500  a  year.  Another  marled  the  whole  of  hb  land, 
inclofed  it  with  (lone  dykes,  and  the  rent  rofe  fiom  L.  500 
to  L.  1200  or  L.  1300  per  annum.  Every  eftate,  within 
thcfe  a«  years,  has  rifen  in  proportion.  Almoil  the  whole 
of  the  parifh  is  inclofed. 

Church  and  Stipend. — ^The  church  was  built  in  17^2,  and 
has  been  well  repaired  fince  the  prefent  iiicuuibetit  was  fct- 
ded.  The  fpirit  of  makmg  churches  neat  and  decent  nas 
fpread  to  the  neighbouring  pariihes.  The  ftipend,  including 
the  glebe^  is  about  L.  110  Sterling  per  annum.  The  crown 
is  patron. 

Mineral  Springs  and  River Sj'^Thttt  is  one  remarkable  mi- 
neral fpring,  called  Dunje  Well^  m  the  eftate  of  Niibet.  It 
appears,  that  a  number  of  gentry  and  nobility  formerly  re- 
forted  to  this  water ;  but  it  is  fallen  into  difrepute.  ihire 
are  two  rivers  in  the  parilh,  viz.  Whitewater  and  Blackwatcr, 
commonly  pronounced  Whitadder  and  Blakadder.  White- 
water rifes  in  the  Lammermuir  Hills,  near  the  confines  of 
Lothian,  ruiis  near  30  or  40  miles,  and  difcharges  itfelf  into 
the  Tweed  about  2  miles  from  Berwick.  It  abounds  with 
fmall  trout.  A  great  number  of  falmon  come  up  and  fpawn  in 
it.  Blackwater  rifes  Ukewiie  in  Lammermuir,  above  Green- 
law, and  after  a  courfe  of  about  16  or  18  miles,  falls  into  the 
Whitewater,  at  a  village  called  Allantown,  in  this  pariflb.  It 
is  celebrated  for  as  fine  trout  as  any  in  Scotland. 

Roads. — ^The  roads  are  tolerably  good.    They  have  been 

greatly 


I20  Sta^/Hcal  Account 

greatly  improved  within  thefe  30  years.  The  money  nifed 
in  the  parifli  for  repairing  them  Is  about  L.  115  Sterling 
yearly,  by  taxing  every  horie  at  7  s.  6  d.  and  every  cottager 
at  I  s.  6  d.  There  are  Few  or  no  turnpikes,  except  on  the 
poft  roads.  The  country  is  divided  in  opinion  about  the  ad- 
vantages or  difadvantages  of  them. 

Manners^  Cufloms^  ?5V.— There  is  a  very  great  alteration  in 
the  manners,  cuftoms,  drefs,  and  ftile  of  living,  of  the  inha- 
bitants of  this  parifli,  within  thefe  30  years.  All  x^ks  have 
more  elegant  or  commodious  houfes,  finer  cothes,  and  better 
food* 


NUM- 


^  Imerundu 

Dumber  xvt 

i?AltISH  O-P  INNERWICK. 

f 

Bj  the  Rev.  Mr  John  Haryie. 


Situdtkn^  Extent^  Sot/,  and  Sufface. 

THIS  pariih  is  in  the  county  of  Haddingtoni  prefbTtery 
of  Dunbar,  and  fynod  of  Lothian  and  Tweeddale.  It 
extends  from  the  fea,  on  the  north,  about  12  miles  fbuth« 
wards.  On  the  coaft,  it  is  not  above  2  miles  broad,  but  gn^ 
dually  fwells  towards  the  iouth,  and  in  (bme  places  may 
be  5  or  6  miles  broad.  It  is  bounded  on  the  weft  by  the 
pariihes  of  Spott  and  Dunbar  i  on  the  fouth.  by  Cranfhaws 
;  and  Longformacus ;  on  the  eaft  by  Oldhamftocks )  and  on  the 
north  by  the  fca.  The  face  of  the  country  Is  level,  and  the 
foil  rich.  From  the  church  towards  the  louth  the  pariih  i^ 
hilly ;  and  the  hills  fartly  green  and  partly  heath.  In  many 
places  on  the  coaft,  the  foil  is  rather  light  and  gravelly.  The 
ihore  is  rocky. 

Cultivation  and  Pnduce.'-^Thdt  part  of  the  parifh  which 
is  between  the  high  lands  and  the  fca  is  perhaps  about  2000 
or  3000  acres,  and  is  employed  in  raifing  corn,  grafs,  and 
turnip.    There  is  very  little  of  It  in  pafturc.    There  are  56 

Vol.  L  q^  plofgh* 


""^«  -c  fed /;xt  ''"^  -^ -•  fc  It  T'^  ^  -- 

"''  ^«cly  d,V;ded      T  "*""  P»«««^  Tb7         °™'  '"^^t 
«  -•'•eJ  for  fJe    'r'^^"  ''^  ^900  »; J  7""°"'  »'"c„ 

''^  '^<=  '2th  of  1?"'""^  ^°°"cr.     ,;  ,?  ''^^  the  end  of 

^thcr  than  rh*  ^*-^ced  jn  „^  ,         -*-•  2 :  lo  -  ^ 

'^'•"P  wa,  very  L?  ''^  '"^''«  'n  a  re./   .  "°  "^^^'S^ 

^•" -bout  the  bea'""''''^-    Seed.  0^;'    '° '78,,  ^^ 


a. 


can  be  ca/ti, 


$f  Innerwkk.  123 

Population^  faV.— Souls                 -                    •  p6o 

Pamilics                    -           .         -                   -  208 

Males                    ...  ^^o 

Females                     -                     -                     -  530 

The  annual  average  of  births              -                -  21 

*                            deaths            -                -  17 

The  annual  average  of  births  about  40  years  ago  2  j 

■                                                           100  years  ago  3j 

lie  annnal  average  of  males  born  from  1778  to  1788  1 1 

■ females  bom  in  the  fame  period  i  o 

In  ten  years  preceding/  the  annual  average  of  males  14 

-'    ■                     ■           — : females  1  c 

Seceders              •■      -                     .                     .  80 

Heritors,  onfy  2  of  them  refide  in  the  parifti            -  8 

Farmers  redding,  in  the  p^riOi                 -                 -  20 

t^^'rights      .    ;            .,                   .          ■           -•  3 

Weavers                     -                     -                 .    -  10 

Shoemakers                 -,                   -                    -  i 

Fiflierm^n                    •            ..     .    ^.        .             ^  ^ 

Poor,  above  *  -  -  -  20 

Expcnce  of  their  maintenance  about  L.  50  yearly. 

The  dccreafe'of  population  is  owing  chiefly  to  the  mono- 
pollGng  of  farms,  and  the  introduftion  of  two  horfc  ploughs. 

Price  of  Labour  and  Provifions, -^The  men's  wages  was  5  d. 
a-day  about  40  years  ago ;  they  are  now  from  lo  d.  to  is. 
The  women's  wages  is  6  d.  a-day  for  labouring  at  hay  or  tur- 
nip. But  there  are  few  day-labourers,  moft  of  the  people 
being  employed  as  hynds  or  plowmen,  lot-men,  &c. ;  all  of 
whom  are  paid  in  grain.  The  lot- men  threfli  for  the  25th 
boll,  rhe  plowmen  receive  bolls  of  different  kinds  of  grain, 
frequently  amounting  in  all  to  L.  18  or  L.  20  Sterling.  A 
*  male 


X  24  Stati/lica!  Acamnt 

male  domeftic  fervant  receives  L.  6  or  upwards,  and  a  finmle 
L.  3  per  annum.  Yortj  years  ago,  a  male  fervaat  received 
about  L.  2  :  10 :  o,  and  a  female  L.  i  :  5  :  o  per  annum.  Hccfp 
mutton,  &c.  are  fold  at  Dunbar  from  4  d.  to  5  d.  per  lib, ;  ^ 
couple  of  fowls  now  cofts  from  2  s.  to  2  s.  6  d. 

Fj/fj,  and  Sea^Coqft, — At  prefent,  only  two  fifliing  boats  be« 
longing  to  the  parifli  are  employed  in  catching  lobfters,  which 
is  by  far  the  moft  profitable  branch  of  fi(hing  \  bi^t  great  ^^ 
riety  of  other  fi(h  is  caught,  fuch  as  cod,  lingt  turbojt,  had- 
dock, &c.  which  are  generally  fent  to  Dunfe,  Haddingtooa 
&c.  It  is  probable  that  the  current  on  this  coaft  is  ftrpnger 
than  formerly;  for  all  the  wrecks,  about  15  or  16  in  num- 
ber, fhat  have  happened  within  thefe  1 8  years^  have  beeqi 
driven  alhore  nearly  about  the  fame  place.  At  the  place 
where  the  fhips  are  always  wrecked,  there  is  a  fn^  creek^ 
called  Sketraw  Shore,  which  ieems  to  be  intended  by  nature 
for  a  harbour.  The  making  a  harbour  here  would  be  of 
great  advantage  to  the  trade  from  Letth  to  London ;  and  par« 
lijIQientary  intereft  could  not,  perhaps^  be  employed  better 
than  in  promoting  fuch  a  fcheme. 

Church  and  Siipend.^'Tht  church  was  built  in  1 7841  th^ 
inanfe  about  the  year  1726,  and  repaired  in  1788.  Accord- 
ing to  a  decreet  pronounced  in  March  1 790,  the  ftipend,  in- 
cluding the  glebe,  will,  at  an  average,  amount  to  L.  140  Ster- 
ling ^r  annum.    Mr  Nilbet  of  Dirleton  is  patrop* 

Antiquitiis. — ^The  remains  of  a  chapel  are  to  be  feen  on  the 
coaft.  There  is  a  fniaU  encampment  on  Blackcaftle  Hill, 
ieemingly  Danlfli.  There  are  two  very  beautiful  tumuli,  en 
jthe  top  of  which  have  been  burial  places.  Near  one  of  them 
^s  a  bridge  of  one  arch^  commonly  called  £dirkiO|  laid  to  be 

'1 


9  coirqption  for  King  Edward^  who  is  fuppoied  to  have  baSt 
it. 

MtfciUaneaus  Oi/irffatiMs^^Tbc  air  it  generally  dry  and 
healthy.  There  b  a  fj^iDg-wdl,  the  water  of  which  is  re- 
iDarlcable  for  its  lightnefs.  There  are  two  free-ftone  quar« 
ries.  No  coal  is  worked^  bat  fmall  Teams  are  vifible  in  dif- 
ferent places.  There  b  lime  upon  the  coaft  in  great  abtui. 
Ilfmce^  with  a  (mall  feam  of  coal  below  it.  The  rent  of  eottages 
is  from  15  to  20  (hillings.  CotI  is  iifed  as  fiiel  on  the  coail^ 
peat  and  tarf  on  the  moors.  The  people  are,  in  general, 
snore  expenfive  in  theur  mode  of  living  than  formerly.  They 
are  very  humane  to  thofe  who  have  been  Ihip-wrecked.  Therq 
9re  many  indofmret  in  the  pariih;  but  fprae  fermers  thinlf; 
them  difadvaatageous,  as  they  occupy  too  much  of  the  higk 
seated  ccya.]and|  apd  harboor  birds. 


^^m 


itS  Siatyiical  Account 

NUMBER     XVIL 
PARISH   OF  LINTON. 


fjf  tbi  fUv.  Mr  FiHDXATER,  Mmifier  ofNiwhrnds^  firmer^ 
Ij  of  Linton, 


•    "  NanUy  Situation f  and  Exfinh 

THE  origin  of  the  name  is  uncertain.  The  river  of  Ljne, 
which  rifes  at  the  dauldftane  Slaup,  (a  pafs  over  the 
Fcntlands  from  Twecddale  to  Weft  Lothian)  r^ns ^through 
this  parifh^  and  probably  Linton  is  fo  called  from  being  the 
town  on  the  Lyne.  Linton  is  iituated  In  the  county  of 
ijreecbl^Je,  and  prclbytery  of  Peebles.  Its  contents  may  be 
about  25  Tquare  miles.  It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the 
parifhes  of  Mid-Calder  and  Kirknewton  \  on  the  eaft  by  the 
pariih  of  Pennycook ;  on  the  weft  by  the  parifh  of  Dunfyre  \ 
and  the  remaining  part  by  Dolphington,  Kirkcurd,  and  New- 
lands. 

Soil. — ^The  foil  of  the  hills  is  clayey,  and  they  arc  covered 
with  grafs,  which  feeds  flicep  for  the  butcher ;  the  fhcep, 
however,  are  fubjcft  to  the  rot.  The  low  ground  near  the 
North  £ik  is  a  clay  foil  on  a  lime-ftone,  but  the  land  being 
Jiigh,  is  unfavourable  to  cropping.  The  remaining  part  of  the 
hill  ground  is  all  covered  with  heath,  with  a  fmall  mixture 
of  grafs,  and  is  fitter  for  breeding  than  feeding,  which,  in  ge* 

neralf 


Jieral,  is  the  ok  with  almoft  all  the  paftare  la^d  in  the  pa« 
rUh.  Except  o^  the  North  Efk^  the  cultivated  lane}  is  either 
a  mofly  foil^  or  a  fandj  loam  upon  a  gravelly  bottom,  an4 
x'emarkably  adapted  for  the  culture  of  turnip  and  potatoe* 
There  ^e  fome  lochs  in  the  lands  of  Sllppcrfield,  belonging 
to  Mr  John  Carmichael  of  Skirling,  the  largeft  about  a 
mile  and  an  half  Englilh  in  circumference.  They  have 
no  outlet;  the  fprings  feeming  to  equipoife  the  evapora- 
tion. The  water  is  mofs  water.  They  abound  in  pike  and 
perch,  but  contain  no  eels.  In  a  loch  in  Eddleftone  parifli^ 
in  the  county  of  Tweeddale,  called  the  Jf^ater  Lochy  there  is 
an  outlet  with  a  dream  which  drives  a  mill ;  at  tertain  fea« 
fons  eels  are  caught  in  abundance,  in  creels,  at  the  outlet. 
The  ftreani  falls  into  one  of  the  £fk  waters*  Quere,  Do  eeb 
migrate  for  fpawning  to  running  water  only,  or  do  they  go  to 
the  Tea? 

C/ima//.^-Though  the  climate  is  rainy,  and  the  air  moift, 
from  the  number  of  moflcs,  yet,  being  well  ventilated,  the 
exhalations  never  ftagnate  or  grow  putrid,  fo  as  to  produce  di- 
fcafes.  The  high  lands  of  Tweeddale  and  Lanarkfhire,  are  all 
fubjeft  to  harvcft  frofts,  which  often  damage  the  crop.  Thcfe 
frofts  are  generally  dreaded  about  the  latter  end  of  Augud  and 
during  the  month  of  September.  Rainy  weather  about  this 
time  generally  terminates  in  this  kind  of  froft,  which,  in  the 
year  1784,  deftroyed  the  whole  barley  crop  in  the  month  of 
Augud.  The  higheft  land  is  always  the  laft  in  fuficring  by 
this  kind  of  froft ;  the  loweft  is  in  greateft  danger.  In  a 
calm  evening  after  rain  this  froft  is  always  apprehended; 
when  it  fets  in,  a  low  white  thick  creeping  vapour  is  obfer- 
Ved  to  arife,  after  fun-fet,.  from  the  running  waters  and  low 
lying  mofles,  which  gradually  fpreads  to  a  certain  diflance, 
aind  to  a  certain  heighth,  on  tlie  lands  in  the  neighbourhood. 

Thefc 


Sift  ttoAJHcia  dttma 

Thde  froft  mlfts  are  oMcrred  to  attraft  aadi  odier;  aH^ 
wherever  they  reftj  they  deftroy  vegetation  wheb  in  a  certatfli 
ftate,  or  whefe  their  balefbl  influence  is  not  coonteraOed  by 
i>articular  circumftances.  The  half  of  a  field  contiguous  to 
the  running  water  or  mofs  is  often  deftrbyed^  while  the  more 
iremote  halfj  on  thfc  iame  level,  or  part  equally  near,  bur  more 
elevated,  remains  fafe.  In  part  of  a  field  of  potatoes  in  the 
line  of  the  attraSbon  of  two  mifts,  the  fiems  became  black 
and  foft  like  foap,  while  the  neighbouring  drill  remained 
(reen  and  vigorous.  Thefe  froft  mifts  maniieft  their  noti« 
bus  quality  firft  on  the  potatoe  ftems,  fecond  crop  of  clo- 
ser, and  peafe.  It  requires  a  greater  degree  of  intenfity  in 
the  froft  to  hurt  other  crops :  It  ibarcely  affefb  turnips.  The 
ftems  of  the  potatoes  and  clover  grow  black  and  foft,  and  fall 
down  \  the  leaves,  and  the  pods  of  the  pea,  are  fpotted  with 
white  fpots.  The  potatoe  b  fiippofed  to  grow  no  moTCf 
though  the  roots  are  fafe  |  the  peaft,  in  proportion  to  their 
greennefs,  are  foft,  wrinkled,  and  watery,  become  of  the  co* 
lour  of  a  pickled  olive,  and  ac4uire  a  difagreeaUe  fWeetiih 
tafte :  When  threfhed,  the  froft  bitten  are  diftiiigoifhed  from 
the  found  by  throwing  them  into  water }  the  found  fink,  the 
others  (wim.  A  field  of  Oats,  when  froft  bitten,  acquires  in 
a  few  days  a  blueifh  caft )  and  barley,  if  early  firofted,  as  in 
1784,  remains  ereA  in  the  head,  which  acquires  a  redifli 
brown  colour,  or,  if  later,  a  deadifh  whitCDefs.  The  kernels, 
when  unhulked  immediately  after  the  froft,  are  wrinkled^ 
foft,  and  watery,  and,  after  a  while,  grow  (hrivclcd  and  dry. 
The  kernel  of  frofted  oats,  even  if  threihed  in  fpring,  #hen 
examined  between  the  eye  and  the  light,  appears  cloudy,  and 
not  of  that  uniforpi  tranfparency  which  found  grain  pofief- 
fcs. 

In  the  morning  after  the  froft  the  vegetables  are  ftlffened ; 

but 


faot^jts  efie£b  aure  not  obfervable  till  after  fun*rlfe.     If  wind 
arifes  through  the  night  to  prevent  the  mift  from  fettling,  or 
if  the  next  day  is  cloudji  and  efpecially  if  it  rains  before  fun- 
rife,  or  if  the  field  be  fo  (haded  by  hills  from  the  rifing  fun 
that  the  crop  may  be  gently  thawed  by  the  increafing  heat  of 
the  atmofphere  before  the  fun's  rays  fiiine  diredtly  on  it,  no 
danger  is  to  be  apprehended.     In  conformity  to  this  expe- 
rience, a  fmall  field  of  potatoes  has  been  known  to  be  faved 
by  fprinkling  them  'with  well  water  before  fuurifing.     But 
this  can  never  be  executed  on  a  large  fcale.     Attempts  have 
alio  been  made,  though  without  fuccef's,  to  fave  oats  and  bar- 
ley,  by  dragging  fomething  over  them,  before  lun-rife,  to 
fliake  ofi^  the  hoar  froft,  or  rynu  or  cranreuch^  as  it  is  called, 
Tvl^ich  is  depofited  wherever  the  xnift  fettles.     This  frofl  af- 
fcAs  the  vegetation  of  corn  only  at  a  certain  period  of  its  pro- 
grefs.     Peafe  are  frofted  however  green  in  the  grain,  and  the 
greener  the  more  readily  \  they  are  not  killed  by  it  when 
hard  ripe ;  but  to  this  ftate  they  fcldom  arrive  at  Linton, 
l^arley  and  oats  are  not  hurt  by  this  froft  when  hard  ripe, 
and  fit  for  the  hook ;  and  it  is  probable  that  they  are  not 
hurt  by  it  even  though  they  are  (hot,  and  the  ear  beginning 
;o  fill,  as  long  as  the  juices  are  watery,  and  have  rot  yet 
come  to  the  CQnfiflepcy  of  thlckilh  milk.     It  is  certainly  the 
tafc  with  pats.     In  the  year  1784,  the  froft  was  on  the  17th 
^nd  1 8th  Auguft.     The  uppermoll  grains  of  the  oats,  which 
r.hvays  fill  fooned,  had  thick  milk  in  them,  and  were  frofted 
4  or  5  grains  down  the  head.     The  grains  below  thefc  all 
f  ipened  well.   The  barley,  which  might  be  about  equally  for- 
ward with  the  top  grains  of  the  oats,  was  totally  deftroyed, 
IVohably  the  upper  grains  bad  flieltcrcd  the  under  ones  from 
J  he  frort,  the  crop  being  very  thick  and  ftrong;  and  this 
ini^ht  have  been  the  reafon  why  the  undermoft  grains  ripen- 
ed :    But  as  a  proof,  above  all  exception,  that  ihefrojl  does  not 
Vol.  I.  R  gn-atiy 


f  30  Statj/lical  Atcount 

greatly  hurt  oats  nvbife  the  juices  in  the  ear  art  watery^  there 
were  levcral  contiguous  fields  fown  with  late  feed  oats,  whofe 
beft  ripenea  grains  were  no  further  advaticed  than  the  un« 
dermoft  grains  in  the  field  above  mentioned,  and  thej  ail  ri- 
pened verj  welli  though  equally  expofed  to  the  froft. 

Dr  Roebuck^s  experiments  on  oats  in  1782  correfpoiKh 
with  this  obferyation ;  for,  even  the  laft  parcel  he  cut  'vtai 
not  ripe  tvhen  cut  t  oi  courfe,  it  may  be  probably  conjedured, 
that,  m  the  time  of  the  froftj  none  of  the  oats  in  qucftion 
had  thick  milk  in  the  ear. 

Crops  cut  and  flacked  before  the  froft  are  fafe,  except 
pcafc,  the  upper  furface  of  <«^hich  will  frofl  till  they  be  tho- 
roughly ripe.  To  fave  them,  it  is  ufual  to  turn  the  expofcJ 
fide  downwards,  to  thaw  gradually  before  fun-rife. 

This  froft  affefts  only  low  grounds,  and  only  hardens  a 
very  thin  cruft  on  the  furface  of  the  earth.  In  1782,  the 
froft  pener rated  feveral  inches  into  the  ground|  fo  as  to  de- 
ftroy  the  roots  of  the  potatoes. 

Di/l\i/fs, — A  man  called  William  Badie,  or  Beafie,  a  flioe- 
maker,  died  a  few  weeks  ago  in  Linton.  About  16  or  17 
years  fince,  being  aftlifted  with  ftomach  complaints,  contrac- 
ted by  drinking  cold  water  when  overheated  in  harveft,  he 
was  advifcd  to  fwallow  ftones  to  help  digeftion,  after  the 
manner  of  birds  with  mufcular  ftomachs.  He  was  ever  after 
alHicled  with  violent  ftomach  complaints,  and  frequent  vo- 
mitings, with  a  long  train  qf  nervous  fymptoms.  He  never 
fufpcftcd  that  the  ftones  had  lodged  in  his  flomach,  till  hap- 
pening to  be  feifed  with  a  vomiting,  lying  acrofs  a  bed,  icth 
his  head  and  body  reclined  downwards,  and  fupporting  him- 

•    \  fell 


of  Linton^  151 

fdf  wjtk  his  hands  on  the  floor,  feveral  ftones  came  up. 
The  man  t^ras  of  decent  chara£ter ;  and  from  his  own,  anid 
his  neighbqurs  reports,  there  is  no  doubt  of  the  fa£l.  The 
largeft  done  was  the  fize  of  a  finger  end.  He  threw  up  13, 
which,  being  the  Devil's  dozen,  might  probably  be  the  num- 
ber fwallowedi  Latterly^  his  furgeon  made  him  vomit  in 
an  inclined  poiitioii,  and  he  threw  up  fand,  which  probably 
had,  fallen. from  his  victuals  into  fome  fack  formed  in  the  (lo« 
mach  by  the  weight  of  the  (iones.  The  Hones  mu(l  have  ' 
been  lodged  in  his  ftoniach  lor  about  16  years* 

Mines,  Mifieraisf  Springs^  isfc. — There  is  white  frce-ftone 
at  Deepfyke-head  and  at  Spittlehaugh.  The  former  quarry 
fupplies  ail  Tweeddale.  There  is  red  free  (lone  in  the  ridge 
of  Broomieleas^  fupplying  all  Tweeddale  with  pavement  flags. 

There  18  limeftoiie  at  Carlops,  ahd  Whiteiield,  and  Spittle- 
haugh, afforded  in  proportion  to  their  relative  (ituation  to 
the  market^  at  16 d.  i  s.  and  i.s.  1  d*  per  boll  of  fliclls,  at  the 
hill.  Two  bolls  of  fheiis  is  a  good  loading  for  a  one'  horfe 
cart.  A  boll  of  fliells,  when  flacked,  yields  from  two  to 
three  bolls  of  limei 

There  is  coal  at  Carlops  and   Cpalyburn,  Totd,  accord- 
,.ing  to  (ituation,  at  6  d.  and  7  d«  per  200  weight  at  I'iie  pit. 
The  feams  ai*e  about  4^^  feet  thick,  including  a  divilion  Hone 
of  18  inches^ 

Fullers  earth  is  found  in  a  fmall  feam  below  Bridgehoufe 
bridge  over  the  Lyne^  on  the  eaft  dde  of  the  water. 

MaHe  is  found  in  beds,  formed  feemingly  by  oozing  fprings 
from  limc^ftonei  which  cncruft  or  petrify  mofs  by  depodtions 

of 


1^2  Statyiical  Account 

of  licne-ftone.  In  thefe  beds  the  (hells  of  the  cotkuAdn  fifotl 
arc  obfcrved  rotten  and  friable.  A  blue  marki  of  a  mixed 
conCllency  between  (lone  and  clay,  is  found  in  a  ftratnm 
about  two  feet  thick,  above  the  lime  rocks  of  Carlops  and 
Spittlehaugh.  No  whin*Oone  has  been  difcoveredj  except 
detaclied  ftones  hi  the  bed  of  the  river. 

There  is  a  fpripg  lying  north  of  Linton  Village  about  t 
mile,  in  Mr  Chatto's  lahd,  called  Heavert'aqua  JF/ffy  fonr.c- 
what  refcmbling  Tunbridge. 

Animals^  t^r. — Befidcs  the  domcfllc  animals,  and  thofe 
common  to  the  country,  the  earn  eagle  is  fomctimcs,  but  rare- 
ly, icen  on  the  heights.  1  he  golden  crefted  wreh  and  the 
bullfinch  arc  but  lately  come.  The  woodpecker  has  very 
lately  appeared  at  Newhall  on  the  North  Eft,  where,  pro- 
bably, we  fliall  foon  have  the  brown  fquirrel,  which  has'ar- 
rived  already  at  Pcnnycook,  from  the  Duke  of  Bucdengh'y 
menagerie.  In  winter,  the  huppoe^  and  fome  tmknovrn  birds, 
fon.etimes  vifit  us.  Our  migrarittg  Krds  are  the  fwallows, 
green  plover,  curlew,  fund  lark,  a  fmall  wader  frcepienting. 
running  water,  and  the  red- (hank,  and  other  two  larger  wa- 
ders frequenting  lochs ;  alfo  the  corn-craik  and  cuckoo ;  thefe 
appear  in  fpring  and  leave  us  after  midfummer.  The  felt- 
far^-  and  wild  goofe  appear  in  winter ;  the  woodcock  comev  • 
in  September  or  Oftobcr,  and  foon  leaves  us.    * 

Plantations  and  IFoods^  iu^c. — Any  large  plantations  of  trees 
in  the  pariQi  are  as  yet  only  in  their  infancy.  The  larix 
feems  to  thrive  in  the  poorcft  foils  and  moft  expofed  Gtiia- 
tions,  'Ihcir  durability  in  paling  pofts,  even  when  cut  young* 
h  \^cU  known.  The  natural  wood  is  hazel,  birch,  mountaio- 
aDi,  and  v.-.r.ow?.     Birch  is  generally  found'  in  the  moflcs^ 

No 


Nft  cok  iias  <Kctirred|  except  bft^e  a 'Mr^roni  ifiVmoft  near 
the  top  df  Mendic  Hill.  The  fbeep  preTicAT  the  vgroivth  of 
oatoral  Wood,  ^e  yOang  fhoots  of  heath,  .the  jiear;afrer  it 
is  bornty*  Is  The  gyeat'food  of  the  fbeep.  If  burnt  m  #inieir 
it  dies.  The  rime  allotted  hf  the  gacne  laws  for  borajbg)!* 
fpring  is 'too  (liort,  as  heath  is  ofteli  tod  wet  to  bom  initbbifib 
tnited  tiihe ;  1>at  fherfffs  who  know  country  aflFairs  fioe  tnft 
palBn'g  farmers  in  moderation.'  There  is  a  roofs '])kiat  witK 
ft  white  i:ottopy  head  growingifai  moflesy  which  is  the  firft 
fpring  food  of  tlse^flieep.  Jt  fpringa  m  February,  if  the  wea^ 
ther  is  freOi.  It  b  ^odimoaly  caUird  jlfi///mj.  i'he  £heep 
take  what  is  above  the  ^rouadvtcnderly  in  their  alduihs>  aad 
without  bttiog  it  draw  op  a  long  white  Aalk.  r 

Gnaung-^^hcrt  laaj,  by  a  rOngh  eonspotation,  bt  abottt 
10,000  flieep  grned  in  the^pariih,  130  horles,  and  46o'CO«sw 
Swine  are  coming  qnore  and  more  into  fafiiion,  both  among 
farmers  and  hoftfcbolders,  for  fimiiljr^fe.  CowSriareirdol 
20  to  26  ftone  weight,  yielding  from  6  to  S^cots  piott  tyf 
milk  per  day.  They  are  kept  moltly  for  fiunily  'tife,  nb  at* 
(entioft  being  piiid  to  .dairy  farming.  The  brebd  of  horiesr  9 
much  improved  of  late;  particularly  fince  the  introddAion  of 
fwo>btM*fe  ploughs,  which  are  •  generally  adopted.  £ngltfia 
ploughs.  With  the  curved  moldbroad  and  corrcfponding  foclc^ 
are  coming  into  more  general  ufe,  except  for  breaking  up 
moor  and  bent.  Small's  plough  is  alfo  coming  into  ufe.  A  few 
young  horfes  are  reared  from  tba  plough  mares  for  fsk.«  Of 
late,  yeav  olda  are  fokl  from  L.  6  to  L.  10.  The  demand  i9^ 
greateft  for  the  males,  which^  catieris  pmrihis^  draw  from  3a 
to  40  fhiltings  more  than  the  females.  A  good  ftatti^o  ia 
the  neighbourhood  will  be  bought  in  at  L.  40  or  L««50^ 
and  peld  to  his  mafter  a  profit  of  from  L.  15  to  L.  ao  annu* 
ally. 

The 


f34  Statyikaf  Jt^cowit 

The  flsple  taSmftl  ktpt  hy  the  farmers  is  the  fliecp,  cx^ 
cepting  a  very  few  fiurms  where  the  hlUs  are. green,  and  where 
hmbs  are  fisd  for  the  batcher.  The  (heep  for  fale  are  hogsg 
ui.  (beep  of  oite  year  old#  fold  off  in  June  or  Joly  before  they 
are  flM)m4  They  are  difpoftd  of  tb  the  Highlands,  or  Oichil 
Hills  in  Ftfe(hire»  at  the  liidton  markets.  The  principal  of 
tbde  markets  are  two  (  the  one  held  .tnv^iriably  on  the  thmi 
Wednefday  of  June  oldftile ,  the  other  that  day.  week.  Between 
twenty  and  thirty  tboufand  fheep.  are  generally  fold  at  thefe 
markets  annually,  many  being  btought  from,  other  parifhes. 
Some  of  the  Twceddale  (heep  are  fold  at  Stagfhaw,  on  the 
£ngli(h  fide,  and  bought  iii  by  fanners  to  the  Yorkfliire  feUs^ 
whence,  when  older,  they  are  fold  to  grazing  farms  farther 
fouth.  The  Highlanders  keep  what  they  buy  for  two  or 
tiMree  years,  then  feU  them  fat  to  Pert h^  Giaigow,  and  Edin- 
bnrgh,  about  Martiilmas}  a  confiderable  number,^ too,  arc 
^t.up  to  England.  Till  of.  late^  the  great  demand  to  the 
Highfamds  was  for  wedder  hogs}  iacelyi  the  demand  wa 
greateft  for  eWe  hogs  for  breeding.  The  average  price  for 
thefe  year  old  fheep  at  Linton  markets,  of  late  years,  has  been 
9  a.  frhead*  The  fuperaoouated  breeditig  ewes  are  either  fold 
&t  at  Martinmas  to  the  butcher,  at  about  9  s.  a  head,  or>eire 
fold  with  lamb,  ia  the  month  of  March,  to  the  Lothian  parks 
at  It  Si 

'  Hie  duration  of  a  breeding  ewe  varies,  in  different  farnis^ 
from  4  to  7  years.  The  farmer,  when  fo^earing  them  at  Mar^^ 
tinmas,  examines  their  tcah  and  their  eyesj  and  firom  thence 
judges  whether  he  ought  to  keep  them  on  his  farm  another 
ycar<  tVhen  a  farmer  quits  his  farm,  the  new  incomer  knows 
that  it  is  highly  dangefous  to  bring  in  a  breeding  ftock  which 
has  not  been  bred  on  the  farm,  and  generally  takes  the  breed* 
ing  ftock  on  the  farm  at  from  14  s.  to  i6s.  a  head.     Rains 

i>ein£ 


t^  Linionm  135 

Iteing  unprofitable,  the  leaft  poffible  number  of  tkem  is  kept« 
From  40  to  50  ewes  are  generally  allotted  to  one  ram  through 
Tweeddale,  according  to  fhe  poorncfs  or  richnefs  of  the  pa& 
ture.  An  old  fat  bleeding  ewe  from  the  hill  grounds  weighs 
from  6  to  S  pounds  avoirdupoife  per  quarter^  yielding  from  4 
to  8  pounds  of  Tallow, 

The  Tweeddale  wool  Is  in  geperal  coarfe,  and  fells  at  pro« 
fcnt,  if  the  iheep  are  wafhed,  at  an  average  of  6$.  per  ftono 
Tron.  It  ufed*  formerly  to  go  all  to  Stirling  for  carpets,  (bal- 
loons, 8cc. ;  but  of  late  it  is  bought  much  by  Hawick  people  ; 
port  is  fent  to  Hawick,  part  to  Leith,'  where  it  is  ihipped  for 
England.  Attempts  have  been  made  in  Tweeddale,  and  in 
fimrlar  grounds  in  Annandale,  to  improve  the  wool,  by  the 
introdu£lion  of  Bakewell  rams ;  but  it  is  univerfally  given  up  { 
the  breed  produced  being,  as  is  reported,  a  foft  dull  animal, 
always  loitering  in  low  grounds,  unwilling  to  climb  heights, 
and  too  fpiritlers  to  remove  the  fnow  with  its  feet  to  obtain 
food  in  winter.  The  chief  food  of  the  iheep  in  winter  is  the 
grafs  which  in  fummer  they  rejcA,  and  allow  to  grow  to  itt 
proper  height.  The  common  breed  here  is  a  (hort  tailed  com- 
pa{t  bodied  fheep»  with  black  faces  and  legs.  The  iheep  arc 
all  fmeared  at  Martinmas  with  a  mixture  of  tar  and  train  oil, 
or  Orkney  butter.     Butter  is  preferred  to  train  oil. 

A  ilone  and  an  half  of  butter,  and  1 2  Scots  pints  of  Norway 
tar,  is  reckoned,  in  general,  the  dofe  for  80  old  iheep ;  i.^ 
flones  of  butter,  and  12  pints  of  tar,  is  the  dofe  for  50  year 
olds,  or  60  two  year  olds.  John  Murray  farmer  in  Buccam, 
in  the  parlih  of  Galaihiels,  fay$,  that  when  in  Elibank,  in  Sel- 
kirkibirej  he  was  unfuccefsiul  in  his  competition  for  the  pre* 
nium  granted  for  wool  \  he  next  feafon  imeared  entirely  with 
butter  without  tar,  and  eaiily  gamed  the  premium.    The 

Highlanders 


1 3$  Statfftical  Account 

Highlaoders  aod  Tork(birc  people  prefo  h<^  m  proportiD^ 
ta  theit  blaclcnefs,  thinking  they,  are  hardy  bred  in  high  or 
mottj  Uiul.  This  may  be  a  reafoD  of  fmeariog  hogg  heavily. 
There  is  no  getting  a  very  fatisfa£iory  account  of  fmearing 
from  the  j&riners :  Some  fey  it  forms  the  wool  into  a  wax* 
cloth,  keeping  the  (heep  warm  and  dry }  fome  fay  the  tar  is 
neceflary  for  this  purpofe  j  John  Murray,  before  meationpd, 
apprehends  the  butter  fufficient  tor  this  purpofe,  and  that  the 
tar  is  only  neceiTary  to  kiU  vermin.  Some  farmepa  keep  a 
few  (heep  perfeAIy  unfmcared,  for  pettycoata  and  (lockings  ^ 
they  fay  they  have  perhaps  more  wool  %  but  they  think  the 
wool  degenerates  in  quality  and  quantity  the  fuccfseding  year  \ 
;^od  even  the  firft  year  the  experiment  is  not  hir,  as  they  aU 
ways  feled  for  the  purpo(e  the  (trongeft  and  fatteft  (heep  of 
;he  flock.    They  apprehend,  too^  that  they  £iil  fooner. 

The  greateft  improvement  that  has  been  lately  introduced 
i;i  (heep  farming  is  light  (locking.  The  fheep  are  betteri 
and  the  ri(k  of  death  is  alfo  by  that  means  dimini(hed.  It  is 
not  practicable  by  any  other  means  than  light  ftocking,  to  in- 
creafe  the  winter  food  of  the  (heep  through  Twceddaie  i  the 
arable  land  bearing  fo  very  incon(i4erable  a  proportion  to  the 
hill  ground.  Plantations,  in  different  parts  of  the  (heep  £inn$, 
would  be  of  great  ufe  for  protcfting  the  (heep  from  ftorms ; 
but  on  a  1 9  years  leafe,  which  is  the  ufual  term,  no  farmer 
will  plant.  On  the  57  years  leafcs  lately  granted  by  the  Dnke 
pf  Qneeniberry,  farmers  are  planting  trees  for  this  purpofe  at 
their  own  expence.  In  (bme  of  the  breeding  farms  in  lin- 
ton,  the  farmer  .keeps  a  (lock  of  breeding  ewes ;  of  their  lambs 
he  keep9  a  part,  to  replace  the  fuperannuated  ewes  and  rams 
which  he  annually  fells  off*  He  feleAs  the  beft  for  that  pur- 
pofe :  He  alfo  keeps  a  portion,  of  the  next  beft  lambs  for  fell- 
ing as  hogs  next  year  to  the  Highlands.    The  word  pcMiion 

of 


^f  Linton*  137 

of  the  Iambs  he  fells  to  a  fecond  clafs  of  farmers,  who  annu- 
ally boy  ia  lambs^  and  fell  them  all  again  next  year  as  hogs 
to  the  Highlanders.  A  third  clafs  of  farmers  have  a  breeds 
ing  ftock  of  ewes;  of  their  lambs  they  keep  jaft  as  many  as 
are  fiifficient  to  replace  the  breeding  ftock ;  the  reft  they  lell 
to  the  iecond  clafs  of  farmers.  A  tew  farmers  keep  a  ftock 
of  breeding  ewes ;  they  fell  all  their  lambs  fat  to  the  butcher^ 
except  what  is  neceflary  to  keep  up  the  breeding  ftock.  One 
or  two  farmers  who  have  low  and  improved  }and  keep  no 
fheep  through  winter,  but  buy  in  ewes  with  lambs  in  March, 
fell  off  the  fat  lambs  in  fummer,  and  fatten  the  mothers  on 
grafs,  felling  them  at  Martinmas,  or  feeding  them  flili  farther 
on  tnmips* 

This  laft  mode  of  hrming  is  in  its  infancy  at  Linton.  It 
was  introduced  by  James  M^Dougal  in  Linton^  a  very  Intel* 
Ugent  man,  who  was  14  years  with  Mr  Dawfon  at  Frogden^ 
about  the  time  he  commenced  his  improvements,  firft  as  a 
fervant  and  then  as  an  overfeer.  He  has  been  about  1 2  years 
m  a  L.  50  hrm  at  Linton.  Mr  Laurence  Tweedie,  lately 
come  to  the  £sirm  of  Slipperfield  near  Linton,  is  adopting  his 
mode  of  culture.  He  has  an  extenfive  flicep  farif^  of  the  firft 
defcription,  but  brings  down  hb  fuperannuated  breeding 
ftock  to  be  fed  off  on  turnips  on  his  low  lands.  James 
M*DoQgal  buys  in  his  ewes  in  March  with  }amb ;  feeds  off 
the  lambs  on  hill  ground  which  has  been  laid  down  with 
white  clover*  The  ewes  which  have  ml^Ted  lamb,  and  thofe 
whofe  lambs  were  firft  fold  off,  as  they  grow  fat  on  the  grafs, 
are  fold  at  Martinmas ;  the  reft  are  brought  down  to  the 
turnip,  and  fold  about  the  middle  of  January.  Before  he 
pra£Ufed  feeding  on  the  turnip,  he  fold  all  off  at  Martinmas, 
and  reckoned  himfelf  well  paid  if  he  cleared  5  s.  a-head  for 
the  lambs,  and  loft  nothing  by  the  ewes.    The  turnip  im- 

VoL.L  3  proves 


138  StatiJUcal  Account 

proves  tbe  ewes  about  as.  6 d.  or  3 s.  vhead.  which  is 4 
profit  of  L.  a  :  10  :  o»  or  L.  3,  from  the  acre  of  turnip,  an 
9cre  feeding  a  fcore,  bcfidcs  the  advantage  of  the  dung  and 
paddling  on  a  light  fandy  foil.  The  fheep  are  indoied  u  a 
web  of  net  ftretched  on  a  paling,  their  horns  are  fawn  oiT, 
in  freih  weather,  without  injury  to  t^e  animal ;  in  wet  wea- 
ther they  are  allowed  to  go  at  large.  They  thrive  hSttc 
when  at  large;  but  the  ttirnip  are  (boner  confumed,  as  they 
run  to  the  frcfli  ones^  and  leave  thofe  that  are  half  eaten. 
Turnip  fucceeds  beft  at  Linton  when  fown  m  the  latter  end 
^fMay. 

The  principal  dileafes  of  (heep  are,  ift,  Iliac  paffion  or  fick- 
l^efs.  It  attacks  the  fattefl,  when  firft  let  down  to  the  ftubbles, 
and  ground  allotted  for  their  winter  proyifion  ;  It  is  cured, 
when  taken  in  time,  by  bleeding  and  purging.  Turnips,  or 
clover  ftubble,  are  faid  to  cure  it ;  probably  by  occafioning  a 
loofenefs.  ad,  A  diarrhoeai  which  attacks  them  in  fpring, 
when  the  new  grafs  fprings  quickly,  after  previous  ftarviog 
in  a  hard  winter.  3d,  Palfy,  called  tremblings  or  tborter  ill^  to 
irhich  thofe  fed  on  certain  lands  are  peculiarly  fubjeft.  4th, 
The  rot,  indifcriminately  applied  to  confumption  of  lungs  or 
liver :  To  this  they  are  moil  fubjeA  in  moift  foft  land.  Rot- 
fen  ewes  have  in  fpring  a  goiter  like  the  inhabitants  of  the 
Alps  under  the  lower  jaw,  and  are  czVitApoked^  1.  e.  pouched 
ewes.  5th,  The  fturdy,  or  water  in  the  head :  The  fcull 
grows  foft  above  where  the  water  is  lodged ;  and  they  are 
fomctimes  cured  by  a  trepan,  performed  by  a  herd's  knife. 
6th,  Tup  lambs  are  apt  to  die  of  caftration,  particularly  if  it 
is  performed  in  hot  clofe  weather,  and  efpecially  if  it  thun- 
ders within  two  or  three  days.  The  operation  is  delayed  as 
Jong  as  can  be  rifked  for  the  fummer  heat,  to  give  them  a 
better  crefl. 

Whea 


if  Limm:  139 

When  the  laxilbs  are  weaned,  the  ewes  are  milked  for  a 
longer  or  ihorter  time^  according  to  the  richners  of  the  paC- 
turei  and  the  milk,  mlzod  with  the  cow  milk  of  the  farm» 
is  made  into  eheefe,  which  fells  at  about  6  s.  per  ftone  Tron. 
Milking,  however;  is  much  difufed. 

The  naihes  of  flieep  are  sis  JFollowi 
ift»  Ewe,  wedder,  tup,  lambs,  until  they  are  fmeared*. 
2d,  Ewe,  wed(ier,  tup,  hogs,  until  they  are  fhorn. 
3d,  Gimmers,  dummons,  tups,  until  they  are  {hom^ 
4th,  Old  ewes,  #edders^  tups; 

An  intelligent  herd  knows  all  his  (heep  from  pergonal  l^ 
quaintance,  called  iead  mark^  and  can  fwear  to  the  identity  of 
a  (beep. as  he  could  to  that  of  a  fellow  fervant.  The  artificial 
mark  made  with  a  hot  iron  on  the  nofe,  or  with  i  knife  oa 
the  ears,  he  confiders  as  a  very  equivocal  mark  of  identity^ 
like  the  cut  or  colour  of  a  cot  in  the  human  fpecies. 

C$m  Farmhg.'^The  different  fpecies  of  bats  fown  at  LifV^ 
ton  are  ranked  as  follows,  according  to  their  different  degrees 
of  carlinefs :  ift,  Magbiehili  oats,  or  barley  oats,  introduced 
by  Mr  William  Montgomeiy  o(  Magbiehili.  2d,  Carhwaih 
oats  from  the  moors  of  iCarnwath :  They  are  14  days  latter 
than  the  Magbiehili.  3d,  Late  feed  oats  fi>oin  Tweedfide, 
10  or  14  days  btter  thsln  the  Carnwath  oats,  lliey  will 
grow  OQ  worfe  foil  than  the  Magbiehili,  but  require  ftrong- 
er  Ibil  than  the  CamWath.  A  prejudice  lopg  prevailed^  but 
is  now  jgiven  up,  that  the  Aeal  of  thefe  was  better  than  tJUXt 
of  the  Magbiehiil. 

The  Lothisin  pea  does  not  ripdn  in  any  year  at  tdntdb. 
Ttie  Peebles  grey  pea  ripens  foinetimes  if  fown  hi  March. 

There 


1 40  Statljlical  Account 

There  is  a  Magbiehill  pea»  procured  by  the  Lord  Ctuef  lb« 
ron's  father.    The  peafe  crop  is  always  precarious  at  Linton. 

The  land  under  the  plough  in  Linton  parifh  maj  amount 
to  700  or  800  acresy  oi  which  two-thirds  may  be  outfieM  *• 

The  outfield  is  teathed  by  folding  the  bhck  cattle  in  fum- 
mer  over  night|  to  keep  them  from  the  corns,  and  by  folding 
(he  ewes  when  they  are  milked.  The  folds  are  {bmethnes 
limed  in  OAober,  after  the  cattle  are  houfed :  The  land  is 
then  ploughed }  the  lime  fiiUs  to  the  bottom  of  the  furrow, 
but  is  brought  up  again  by  ploughing  deeper  next  leaion. 
Three  crops  of  oats  is  reckoned  naoderate  cropping  after  a  fold. 
On  new  limed  folds  fbme  &rmers  take  four  oat  crops,  then  a 
crop  of  peafe,  which  will  grow  on  outfield  after  lime,  though 
not  otherwife,  then  another  crop  of  oats :  The  land  is  then 
kft  to  gather  fod  as  nature  fliall  dircA.  Twenty  bolls  of 
IhellSi  or  at  moft  twenty-four,  is  the  dofe  for  an  acre. 

The  croft  land  f  is  varioufly  treated.  The  approved  ro» 
tation  introduced  by  James  M^Dongal  is  a  rotation  of  four, 
viz.  ttunips  with  dung  \  then  barley  or  MagbieHill  oats  fown 
with  grafles ;  then  a  crop  of  hay ;  then  Magbiehill  oats.  If 
the  turnips  are  eaten  on  the  field  by  (heep,  thb  ftill  farther 
enriches  the  land  \  fo  that,  in  all  probability,  at  the  next  go* 
ing  over,  half  the  dung  might  be  fufficlent  to  ralife  a  good 
turnip  crop,  and  fet  the  rotation  agoing,  i  he  ipare  dung 
might  be  employed  in  converting  fome  of  the  outfield  into 
croft.  Under  this  rotation  of  four,  potatoes  are  raifed  in 
fWpes  through  the  turnip  field }  fe  that  the  land  is  dunged 
and  paddled  by  the  (beep  which  eat  the  turnip. 

Lint 

*  That  is,  the  open  or  udnclofcd  field* 
t  That  is  iadofcd  fields. 


lint  i»  f«adom  Town,  and  only  for  family  t*.  It'"*  ^onk 
io  or  1 1  ihillings  pr  ftonc  when  fit  for  the  heckler.  Foar 
ftone  front  the  peck  b  reckoned  a  good  crop.  Nobody  wiH 
riJk  the  foWing  it  extenfirely,  except  with  the  view  of  gam- 
bling for  the  Tmftees  premium^ 

Pepulatkn.—'Tht  popnlation  of  Linton,  taken  at  a  Vifita- 
tlonin  1777. 

Inhabited  houfes  by  feparmte  families  in  the  viHage  io« 

Ditto  in  the  coontry  -       .  -  134 

Total  -  •  •  *3<^ 

Souls  in  the  village  •  -  -  -        353 

Ditto  in  the  country 

Total  -  -  -  - 

Males 

females 

The  fkate  of  their  ages. 


6$o 

1003 

490 

S»3 


Above  70  -                  -                                  J 

Between  70  and  50  -               '           "                « 

S»  and  ao  -           -           -           '        ^08 

.             20  and  10  -             -             "             ^^* 


202 
162, 


Under  10  "  " 

Number  of  marriages  -  -  " 

The  whole  of  the  feccders  (all  Burgers)  including  young 
children  of  receding  parents  -  -  400 

There  U  no  regifter  of  burials  or  marriages.  The  regifter 
of  baptifins  is  not  very  accurate :  A  (hilling  u  paid  for  re- 
giftering,  and  poor  people  have  an  intereft  in  the  omiffion. 

Annual 


142 


Statifiikal  Account 


Annual  average  of  baptifcns  firom  1736  till  17^99  bdth  ia* 
clofive,            -           -           -           -           -  214^ 

From  1759  till  1766  is  very  irregular. 
From  1766  till  17891  both  indufive^  is  -  76\ 

Population  in  1791* 


Inhabited  houfes  in  the  village  of  Linton 
ofBlyth 


country  part 


Toul  inhabited  houfes  in  the  parifh 

Males. 
Inhabitants  in  Linton 

inBlyth 

— in  the  country 


149 

26 


^74 


Females, 
aoa 
18 
249 


Total  inhabitants  in  the  pari(h 
Above  70  years  old 
Between  50  and  70 
Between  20  and  50 
Between  10  and  20 
Under  10  years  old 


59 

12 

107 

178 

Perfbns. 

35« 

523 
928 

29 
146 

349 
i8tf 

ai8 


The  depopulation  feems  to  be  owing  to  itieep  iarmt  being 
rented  to  people  who  live  ^t  a  diftance ;  the  houfes  of  thcfe 
farms  being  inhabited  only  by  the  herds  inftead  of  the  far- 
mer's family.  Another  cirtumilance  muft  be  attended  to^ 
viz.  that,  in  1777,  Sir  William  Montgomery  was  making 
large  improvements  on  his  eftate ;  but  at  prefeht  there  4re 
fewer  labourers  in  the  neighbourhood ;  and  it  is  bbferVaUe, 
that  the  greateft  number  of  empty  houies  are  near  Sir  Wil* 
Ham  Montgomery's  eftate.  liOrd  Hyndfbrd  alfo  carried  on 
many  improvementr,  but  at  his  death  thefe  improvemdfiu 
ceafed. 

The 


The  people  are  either  farmers,  or  mechanics  and  fliop- 
keepers ;  generally  onei  and  fometimes  two  furgeons ;  fer^ 
meriy  an  exdfeman }  lead  carters  and  carriers ;  no  lawyers. 
Two  or  three  looms  work  cotton  cloth  independently,  op 
linen  for  the  manufaAurers  In  Edinburgh,  or  even  Glafgow. 
There  are  ^bout  two  dozen  of  looms  in  the  village. 

In  the  memory  of  old  people,  the  mode  of  living  is  much 
altered.  The  great  ezpence  formerly  was  in  drinking  two- 
penny. The  farmers  ate  no  fledi  but  what  died  of  itfelf ; 
onions  was  a  common  reli(h  to  their  bread.  Their  clothei 
were  homefpun  and  coarfe.  More  fleflx  is  now  confomed 
even  by  cottagers,  than  formerly  by  farmers. 

The  fituation  of  every  clafs  of  people  is  much  improved- 
Even  within  theft  few  years  labourers  wages  are  confiderably 
raited.  A  good  ploughman  gets  L.  6,  and  meat  in  the  houfe  | 
or  6}  bolls  of  meal,  and  L.  1:6:0  annually,  inftead  of  meat. 
}f  he  marries  he  gets  a  houfe,  for  which  his  wife  (bears  all 
harveft  with  hi§  m^fter,  who  drives  ifi  her  fuel,  and  gives  hef 
land  for  lint  or  potatoes.  She  generally  gets  ofiails  of  milk 
fnd  whey,  &c.  if  fhe  is  liked.  A  good  fervant  maid  has  L.  3 
p<r  annum. 

Day  laboqrefs  have  8  <)•  in  fummer  and  6  d.  in  winteri 
with  viAuals ;  women  at  out-work  3  d.  but  oftner  4  d.  witl^ 
viQuals.  In  harveft,  mep  get  10  d.  women  8  d.  with  vic- 
tuals. Taylors  6d.  and  viAuals.  Mafons  and  joiners  are 
pver^proportioned  to  other  labourers,  from  the  demand  tp 
Edinburgh,  and  get  i  s.  with  vidhials.  Few  enlift,  as  they 
have  plenty  of  employment  at  home*  Some  fix  or  eight  may 
have  emigrated  to  America;  they  write  flattering  accounff 
to  t]ieir  fineodi^  but  compbm  of  their  diftance  from  religious 

or^inancey. 


144.  StatiJlUal  Account 

ordinances.  Except  ia  cafes  of  occaiionai  diftrefi.  lroin.deactIi« 
fickoefty  or  old  agej  a  flout  bbourer  or  ploughman,  vith  an 
economical  wife,  c«i  bring  up  a  famU7  of  fix  children  with* 
out  aid  firom  the  pubjic 

Rent,  Churchy  ffc. — ^The  heritors  of  thc'parifh,  excepting 
trifling  feuers,  are  x  2  in  number,  of  whiich  only  one  has  a  do* 
Biicilc>  where  he  occa&>nally  reifies. 

The  land  rent  may  be  ...  L.  2359 

The  rent  from  coal  and  lime  ^  •        .  1^0 

The  glebe  and  ftipend  may  be  worth  -        •  8; 

The  preient  mioiftcr  is  Alexander  Forrefteri  a  batchelor, 
who  fucceeded  in  1790,  The  manle  was  rebuilt  m  1779» 
the  church^  1782. 

The  ftceders  are,  Burgers  »  .         •         339 

,  ^  I  Antiburgers  *  •  2 

I        I  Rc^ef  .  •  -  35 


In  all      376 
There  are  no  other  religious  feQaries  in  the  pari(b. 

Pa0r.— There  are  no  poors  rates  in  the  parUh.  They  are 
fupported  by  collections  at  the  church  doors,  by  dues  at  pro« 
clamationsy  and  dues  for  mort-cloths  kept  by  the  kirk-feC- 
fion.  In  1773*  a  legacy  of  L.  too  was  Iclt  to  the  poor^  be- 
fore that  they  had  one  of  L.  25.  This  ftock  is  at  intcreft  at 
S percent.  In  1783,  the  treafurer  had  above  the  annual  in- 
come a  balance,  which  was  then  expended,  with  ibme  chari- 
table coUeAions  and  private  donationSi  amounting  to  near 
L.  30.  In  that  year  the  feffion  did  not  buy  meal  and  retail 
k  at  an  under  rate,  but  gave  their  contributions  in  money* 
Tn  other  parifhes^  where  the  kirk-feffion  bought  and  retailed 

ipcal 


g^  LiniQtu    ->  145 

ineal  at  sm  under  rate^  the  retail  trade  was  knpcked  up,  and 
tradefmen  who  were  not  on  their  lift  had  to  travel  to  Linton 
for  meal.  The  feffion  never  adnsitted  any  poor  to  regular 
penfions ;  but  tl^c  trcafurer,  who  was  the  miniftcr,  gave  oc- 
caGonal  Aipply,  by  the  advice  of  difcreet  people  in  tfie  pariih. 

Average  of  the  annual  eipences  of  fupporting  the  poor  ia 
jUnton. 

For  4  years  previpus^  to  I773f  when  L.  100  was  left  them, 
was  -  -  •  •  L*  10  18     8 

From  1773,  for  8  years,  annua!  expcncc  1619     3 

From  Martinmas   1782  t\\\  Martinmas  1785, 

the  expence  2^  nearly  the  fanie  each  year  31     o     Oy 

From  June  1785  till  June  1790        -         «  18  17  10 

From  the  above  may  be  deduced  about  L.  1:4:0,  which 
75  annually  expended  in  fees  to  the  fedjon-derk,  beadle^  and 
prcfbytery  and  fynod  clerksj  an4  officers. 

In  1782*— 39  people  :ttrerc  fomctimes  difcovered  living  on 
pettlesi  or  potatoes,  without  meal,  and  were  relieved ;  par« 
ticclarty  one  poor  houfchoider,  a  day  labourer,  who  was  re- 
ported to  the  rolnifter  as  lick  and  ilarving.  Me  was  found 
exhauftcd  with  hunger;  and  (aid,  that  he  felt  an  o^ercafllng  at 
his  hearty  and  his  lights  nvere  ay  ready  to  lofe  thejliiff.  Some 
Port  wine,  and  a  fupply  of  meal,  put  him  in  heart,  and  made 
him  fit  for  work,  Tlic  people  lived  then  raolUy  on  very 
wholefome  white  peafe^  brought  from  Lcith. 

Parochial  Suhool.^-^Thc  fchoolmafter's  falary  is  L.  10,  with 
a  houfe  and  garden  valued  at  L.  2  ptr  annum*  The  fcholar^ 
feldom  exceed  40  iummer  and  winter.  The  prices  for  teach- 
.    Vol.,  I.  T  ing 


K46  StatiJIual  Acewnt 

ing  are  X  f.  2  d.  per  quarter  for  Engtifli;  i  s.  6d.  for  ariOi- 
meticy  writing,  and  Latin.  On  account  of  the  vacation  in 
harreft,  the  fchoolmafter^s  year  is  only  3  qnarters.  L.  20 
per  annum  may  be  the  value  of  his  office* 

Frke  of  PnwJions.^-^\axc\}  2  J  d.  per  pound  \  muttoa  3  d« 
to  3 J  d.  i  beef  3  d*  to  3}. \  pork  34 d.  to  4d.  1  ducklings  7  d. 
or  8  d.  a*piece  \  chickens  3  d.  a- piece ;  hens  for  the  fprt  rid.; 
butter  9  d.  i  (kiauiied  cow  milk  checfe  aj  d.  |  ewe  milk  cheefe 
5  d.  per  Tron  pound }  fweet  milk  per  Scots  pint  2  d.  1  iktn^ 
med  milk  ^  d. 

Roads. — An  a£l  was  got  for  the  Linton  and  Noblehonie 
roads  from  Edinburgh  to  Moffat,  about  I7$6.  They  are 
made,  and  now  upheld,  at  50  flulirngs  per  mile,  which  is  aH 
the  money  that  can  be  al'owed  above  paying  the  imereft  of 
borrowed  money,  and  witiiout  any  ilnkiog  fund  to  eaLtingttifli 
the  principal.  Statute  laoour  is  commuted,  with  idvanuge^ 
at  4  d.  for  a  day's  work  of  <x  man. 

Antiquities. — When  the  old  church  was  taken  down  fai 
)78i  or  17821  it  appeared  to  have  been  built  of  the  ftoncs  of 
an  older  one.  Carved  free  itones  were  found  in  the  middle 
of  the  wall,  reprefenting  in  baflb  relievo  a  crucifix  ett&^  fup^ 
ported  by  a  pair  of  wool  ilicirs  lying  acrols  beneath,  bat  no 
inotto. 

In  a  deep  fequeftered  glen  in  the  lands  of  Carlop^  at  the 
junAion  of  two  deep  glens  which  communicate  widi  the  firft 
pne,  (Vands  a  projcAing  rock  of  firee-ftone,  forming  a  natural 
pich,  with  a  projeAing  canopy.  It  is  called  Harbour  Graig. 
This,  it  is  faid,  was  a  retreat  of  convcnticlers  under  Charles  If. 
A  ^reat  number  of  initials  are  carved  rvddy  m  the  rock,  and 
'"*  dates 


9f  Lint0u  147 

4alet  cofrefpboding  to  the  tradition.  Near  it  is  the  moor 
caOed  Harlaimuir,  probably  from  fome  ikirmifh,  of  wUch 
there  is  no  tradition.  Near  Spittlehaugh  is  a  park  called 
Chapelhill  \  there  are  no  remains  nor  tradition  of  a  building ; 
bat  ftone  coffins  have  been  found  in  the  park,  and  in  feveral 
parts  of  the  parifh.  A  Roman  urn  was  found  in  a  cairn  at 
Garwaldfeoi)  by  the  late  General  John  Douglas. 

MifcdLmwui  Oi/erwithns.'^The  village  of  Linton  (eems 
Adapted  for  a  woollen  manufacture  of  coarfe  goods*  The 
Lyne  would  drive  confiderabk  weighty  machinery.  Lime  is 
abundant;  coat" is  not  dear;  and  every  houfe  in  the  village 
has  a  privilege  of  cutting  peat  ad  libitum  from  the  common 
modes,  which,  all  expences  included,  may  be  put  into  the 
winter  flack  at  8  d.  the  fingle  horfe  cart. 


NUM. 


I4I  Siaiijiical  Account 

NUMBER     XVIIL 
PARISH   OF  NEWLANDS. 

£j  tie  Rev.  Mr  Findlater. 


T^fEWLANDS  is  fituatcd  in  the  Ourc  of  Turccddalc  and 
x\  prefbytcry  of  Peebles.  It  is  bounded  by  the  pariflics 
of  Linton »  Lyne,  Kirkhurd,  Stobo,  Eddie Aone,  and  Penny- 
cook.  The  face  of  the  parilh  is  diveriified  with  hills  and  val- 
leys. The  hilU  arc  in  general  clayey,  ntorc  or  left  mixed 
with  ftones.  The  arable  l^nd  is  in  general  a  clay  loam,  up- 
on a  clofe  impervious  tilly  bottom,  b  is  liable  to  poach  iof 
winter^  and  therefore  not  fit  for  turnip  iheep  feeding. 

There  is  fcarcely  any  heath  in  the  parift.  The  paftnrcs  arc 
all  green  ^  and  white  clover  abounds  where  the  land  has  bcca 
limed  Trees  thrive  every  where,  and  thorn  hedges  gro* 
very  well.  In  high  expofcd  lituations,  on  fpouty  clay  foil,  the 
oak  fecms  to  thrive  better  than  any  other  white  wood  ufually 
planted  among  evergreens,  as  on  a  hill  top  above  Romanno. 
From  the  Whcam  to  Moothill  brulge,  the  hnd  is  all  euclo- 
fc  j  and  well  wooded.  Larix  and  other  firs  of  a  la/gc  llze  arc 
to  be  fcen  at  Lnmancha  and  Wheam :  At  th.-  l;>iter,  filver  fir 
wai  iatcl/  cut  wiudi  afforded  planks  of  27  *i.Jiu5. 


Springs^  Wfiei,  and  Minerals^ — Chalybeate  fprings  abound 
H'cry  where.  There  is  red  free-ftone  in  Broomyieas  j  and 
from  Romanno  down  the  Lyne  whin-ftone  abounds.  ^From 
Noblehoufe  to  Wheam  the  hills  abound  in  iron*onf  and  iron- 
ilohe,  oh  which  trials  have  been  made,  but  hitherto  without 
fuccefs.  At  Whedm,  Lamancha,  and  Maghiehill,  there  it 
lime  and  coal.  About  that  end  of  the  parifh  there  arc  alfd 
ochres,  red  and  yellow,  veins  of  man^ancfe,  and  Stourbridge 
clay.  A  manufj^ory  for  converting  ochre  Into  paints  is  car^ 
Tied  on  hf  the  Honourable  Captain  Cochrane  at  Lamancha. 

-Rirm/w^,— The  whole  land  in  tillage  may  be  1300  Scottf 
dcres,  of  which  the  outfield  may  probably  be  only  one-half  ot 
three-fifths.  Ploughing  is  moftly  performed  by  four  horfes; 
in  the  lighter  foil  by  two.  At  Scotftown,  two  ftout  oxen  are 
trained  to  plough,  yoked  like  horfes,  and  feem  to  anfwet 
tery  welt 

There  may  be  230  horfes,  young  and  old,  in  the  parifh  ; 
<fc)0  cows,  ccAnfifting  of  dairy  cows,  and  young  ones  coming 
up  to  replace  the  old ;  befides  about  100  more  fed  on  fatten- 
ing graft,  or  reared  on  coarfe  breeding  ground ;  and  3000 
flieep.  Tonng  horfes  are  bred  for  fale  from  the  plougU 
marcs. 

Almoft  the  firft  dairy  farming  in  Tweeddalc  was  begun  id 
Wcftcr  Deanfhoufes,  by  Thomas  Stcvcnfon,  the  prcient  te- 
nant. The  farm  lies  on  the  oppofite  fide  of  the  hill  from 
Wheam,  The  farmer  had  the  advantage  of  a  ho'ife  fitted 
up  for  himfelf  by  the  Lord  Chief  Baron,  when  Sheriff  of 
Peebles,  with  more  convcnicncies  than  ufual  for  farm  houfcs. 
Tempted  by  thcfe  advantages,  and  the  vicinity  to  Edinburgh^ 
the  farmer  turned  his  attention  to  cows,  and  found  the 

fchcme 


150  StmyHcai  dccmml 

fcheme profitd>Ie»  His exsunpk  was foon ioUoved;  and  et« 
tept  in  the  Iheep  hrm%^  all  the  ftnnen  pay  either  the  wholCp 
or  a  confiderable  part  of  their  rent,  bf  their  milk  cows.  The 
produce  of  a  cow  may  be,  at  a  medhun,  L.  3  :  10  :o,  or^ 
where  very  particular  attention  is  paid,  L.  4 :  10 :  o.  The 
cows  are,  at  an  average,  from  26  to  30  ftoncs  weight.  The 
cows  being  generally  hotifed,  their  dung  is  carried  to  crofts 
in  the  vicinity,  which  occafions  the  proportion  of  outfield  to 
fcroftland  to  be  left  here  than  in  the  ikighbonriog  parilh  of 
Linton; 

The  iheep  are  all  ibid  ht\  lambs  at  flbottt  6s.  appietei 
old  breeding  ewes,  at  Martinmas,  about  1 1  s. ;  the  wool  about 
I  s,  per  ftone  dearer  than  at  Linton.  Scarcely  any  ewe  milk 
cheefe  is  made  for  fale  in  the  paridi. 

P^/o/Mff.— From  a  vifitation  of  the  pariOi,  begun  t3tli 
July,  and  finiihcd  2d  September,  1790,  it  appears  that  the 
number  of  inhabited  houfes  pofiefled  by  feparate  fiunilics, 
IS  -  -  •  •  •  182 

The  number  of  males  are  -  -  •  44^ 

—  females  •  .  i  443 

^otaj  ^  .  •  •  891 

State  of  tkeiragci. 

Under  100  and  above  70             -            -  *          .  39 

tTnder  70  and  above  50             •            *  •            103 

Under  50  and  above  ao                 •                •  333 

Under  20  and  above  10            •             -  ^^            19  j 

Under  16               -            *.               •  •           220 

Befides  one  man  who  fays  he  is  10 1            *  *            t 

Proportion  of  children  to  a  marriage          -  -          aj^ 

Batchellors  above  20            •           •            r  "          70 

The 


Ihe  aiunid  Menge  of  births  from  171:9  tUI  1749,  both  in- 
.cfoded  -  -  -  .-     '     V         26y^ 

From  1770  till  1790,  both  included  -  -        24    < 

The  iohabitantt  are  compoled  of  fermersi  quarriersi  othev 
bbonrersy  and  a  few  of  the  moft  indifpenfible  mechanics* 
There  arc  13  heritors^  of  whom  5  refide. 

Wapf^  and  Prius  rf  Prmnjtons. — ^Nearly  the  fame  as  was 
mentioaod  iathe  foregoing  parilh  of  JUnton. 

.^/..^The  grofi  rent  of  the  parifli  is  •  L.  2500 
From  lime  and  coal  aboat  r  r  io«f 

Chunb^  bV,-— llie  valoe  of  tl|e  glebe  and  ftipend  t$  L.  1 15. 
The  prefent  minifter,  Charles  Findlatcr  batcheiior,  fucceedcd 
Dr  James  Mofiat  in  Jmie  1 790.  The  manfe  was  built  30  or 
40  years  ago,  and  the  charch  was  then  repaired.  The  manfe 
has  received  leveral  additions  and  repairs  within  the  iaft  ten 
years. 


< 


/W^r^The  poor  are  fapported  from  a  ftock  of  L.  809  le« 
(ored  on  a  bond  of  the  truftees  for  the  roads  at  5  per  cent^ 
and  from  voluntary  contributions,  and  dues  for  proclamation 
and  funerals,  without  poors  rates«  The  annual  average  ex« 
pence  of  the  poor,  from  July  1773  ^iUJu'y  1782,  JL  12  2  4^ 
From  July  17&2  till  July  1790,  -        -        2i  i   ii| 

The  difference  from  year  to  year  in  the  laft  period  is  incon«- 
^derabie :  The  L.  80  ftock  haying  been  got  within  that  pe^. 
riod,  the  poor  were  probably  more  liberally  tr^ted.  In  1782 
•—3,  meal  was  bought  in  by  the  feffion,  and  fold  at  an  under 
rate,  Some  heritors  maintained  all  the  poor  on  their  own 
lands.  The  roads  in  Newlands  are  under  the  fame  aA  as  iq 
Untoni  and  ftatute  labour  commuted  at  the  fame  rates. 

Mifcellaneous 


15^  Siatlftical  Accaod 

Mifeellantfms  O^y^rtM^xoffT/.— Drochil  Caftle,  4I  the  eonfts* 
cncc  of  the  Terth  with  the  Lyne,  was  built  by  MortoDy 
itegcnt  of  Scotland.  He  was  beheaded  before  it  was  finiflicd* 

In  fome  parts  of  this  pari(h  the  lands  are.  thirled  to  siiUst 
to  the  extent  of  the  fixteenth  of  all  the  oats  raifed^  boric 
corn,  and  the  feed  fown  on  the  farm,  only  excepted.  So 
heavy  a  thirlage  leads  the  farmer  (bmetifues  to  fow  other 
grain,  when,  if  it  were  not  for  the  thirlage»  oats  wonid  bo 
the  more  profitable  crop. 


i^UIil? 


NUMBER     XIX. 

PARISH   OE.I?,JRKMAlDEN. 

Bj  thi  Rev.  Mr  Robert  Callander. 


mmm 


Situation^  Extent ^  tsfc* 

THIS  parifli  »  in  the  county  of  Wigton,  prelbytciy  of 
Stranraer^  and  fynod  of  Galloway.  It  is  bounded  oa 
the  north  by  Stonnykirk  parifh  \  from  which*  to  the  louthcr* 
moft  pointf  or  the  Mull  of  Galloway,  it  is  about  lo  milcf 
long)  on  the  weft  it  is  bounded  by  the  Irt(h  Sea }  on  the  eaft 
by  the  Bay  of  Glcnluce  \  and  is  about  a  miles  broad.  The 
general  appearance  of  the  parifh  is  hilly.  Moft  of  the  flat 
grounds  produce  good  crops  of  corn. 

^^9  ^^* — Mary-Port,  thought  to  be  called  fo  in  honour 
of  the  Virgin  Mary,^  is  a  fmall  bay  on  the  eaftern  fhore, 
which  is  thought  a  (afe  anchoring  place  when  the  wind  blows- 
from  the  weft.  But  Drumore,  where  (hips  of  burden  fre* 
quently  put  in,  in  bad  weather,  is  the  fafed  of  any  in  the  pa^ 
rt(b.  Befides  thefe  there  are  Curgie  and  Kilftay  Bay.  i  here 
was  once  a  pier  at  the  Bay  of  Port  NeiTock ;  but  it  is  now  in 
ruins.  Tfab  would  be  a  commodious  place  for  ihipping,  if  a 
good  harbour  were  built.  Ships  anchor  with  lafety  when 
the  weather  is  ftormy  from  the  eaft.  On  this  (hore,  towardf 
the  fouth,  ia  the  warm  feafon  of  the  year^  there  is  a  va* 

Vot.L  U  rictf 


f  54  StaiiJUcal  AccmnI 

riety  of  intrine  plants  growing  at  the  foot,  and  oo  the  eliffi 
of  the  rocks«  There  is  a  fea  weed,  of  which  a  confideraible 
qnnntity  of  kelp  is  made.  Samphire  grows  In  confidcr^fak 
plenty,  and  i%  gathered  for  pickling.  In  going  from  Weft 
Tarb  ;rt  to  the  point  of  Mull,  there  riies  a  verj  bold  aad  de* 
vaced  coaft.  It  is  about  the  extent  of  a  mile,  and  pvojeds  it* 
felt  as  the  boundary  between  the  Irilh  Sea  and  the  Baj  of 
Luce.  In  a  high  wcftprly  wiQcft  ^  prodigifras  fwell  |ind  wc^ht 
pf  iea  rolls  around  that  point.  It  is  awtuily  grand.  Here 
^he  Tea  ha?  foroied  caverns,  which  are  rendered  dreadful  by 
a  retting  in  tide  and  a  ftrong  wefterly  wind.  T|ie  noife  is 
like  loud  clap^  of  tliunder.  On  the  extremity  of  the  point 
in  a  fine  day,  there  is  a  charming  protpe£k  of  the  north  of 
jEngland,  I&e  of  Man,  Ireland,  flic.  Ships  pals  and  repa& 
this  point  from  England,  Ireland^  and  the  weft  of  Scodand, 
There  have  been  feveral  wrecks.  It  feems  to  be  a  proper 
fituatipn  for  a  light*houfe.  There  is  abundance  of  fi(h  every 
where  on  the  coaft,  of  good  quality  and  great  variecy. 
The  ihell*fi(h«  oyfiers  and  lobfters,  are  very  good  of  that 
kind. 

Produei,  (s^r.— This  parifh  abounds  in  com  and  catiie. 
Potatoes  and  other  vegetables  are  plentiful.  The  fanners 
lay  their  account  with  paying  one  half  of  thoic  rent  by  the 
fale^of  cattle,  and  the  other  half  by  corn.  Barley  and  oats 
thrive  in  this  foil  and  climate,  and  their  quantity  b  con* 
fidrrable.  The  farmers  export  annually  between  2Q0  and 
300  bolls,  Linlithgow  meafure.  The  boll  of  barley  icdls 
this  year  (1790)  at  13s.;  oats  at  ids.  6d.  per  bolL  'ifac 
Wincheflcr  buihel  of  barley  will  weigh,  at  an  average,  about 
46  or  47  lbs.  Englifh.  The  ^mers  are  induftrious,  and  are 
puking  improvements,  by  liming,  &c.  The  rent  of  any  farm 
^oes  iiot  exceed  L.  i^Qpet,annunu  A  farm  of  thei^eft  ground 

ia 


^  Kirhnatdeni  15  j 

n  the  pariih  was  lately  let  at  17  s.  per  icre«    Th^  rental  of 
the  poriih  is  about  L.  2600^  annum. 

Ptfttlation. — Annual  avei^e  of  births,  firom  1716  to  ijzdi 

.  -     -  ■    ■  •           ^^""^  marriages  «             j 

.......  ......  ■                     ■   deaths  •              2t 

f  *.-.  *     ■     ■    birth^i  from  1750  tdl 

1760           -  •  -           -  .            aS 

J  •  -    -  i    ,1  I  ■      ■  ■     marriages  «             4 

■  I  ,  ■               — —    deaths          •  •         ig 

— ^  — —  ■               — —  births,  from  I760  till 

1770           •           -           -        -           -        -  a4 

..«-...     — .—           ■  »      — —   marriages,  nearlj  d 

death!              -  17 

birthi,  from  1770  till 

1780         -          -          -             -            -             *  2tf 

-«-—  marriages,  nearly  6 

■  ■  deaths        •  •14 

— ^       r    ■    ■    ^-'—  births,  frt>m   17S6  till 


1790,  nearly  -  *  ..  •         4^1 

■  *  ■  ■        marriages  ^  6 

■  ■      —    — — i^  deaths         •        *  20 

In  17171  marly  37  died  of  the  finaU-pot.  tn  ijiif  46 
diedi  moiily  of  fevers.  In  1725,  there  were  43  whodiedf 
moftlyof  the  fmall-pox.  In  1785,  47  died,  moftlyof  ait 
epidemical  ferer.  The  return  of  the  population  to  Dr  Web« 
fier  was  1051.  In  17731  there  were  212  familicsi  and  900 
perfons  dx>ve  6  years  of  age.  At  prefect  (1 7j)0)  the  num« 
ber  of  Inhabitants  is  1380,  and  of  families  285* 

Ckarb,  &W,  (Tt/— The  remain!  df  the  old  church  Is  on 

the 


1 5&  StatlJIkdl  AccoUfd 

ttic  ^artA  ofthc'Mutl.  It  w^s  fuppofcd  to  Bivfe  been  dcdi. 
catcd  to  the  Virgin  Mary.  Thi  j>rc(crit  one  Is  liibM  cctttrical, 
and  was  built  A.  D.  1633.  The  Earl  of  Stair  is  patron. 
There  are  ti^o  other  heritors ;  but  only  one  oF  them  refides. 
*nic  ftipcnd  has  not  yet  been  augmented,  and  is  only  55  L  ids. 
Without  any  victual.  The  glebe  Is  cohCderablylEort  dF'Belng 
legal.  At  the  public  fchooT,  Enginh,  writingi  aritltmefic, 
book-keeping,  navigation,  an3  aTittlc  Xatin,  arc  HugKFTThi 
Talary  is  1 00  merks,  and  L.  2  :  8  : 6  Sterling,  for  cdttciitiDg 
\1  poor  Soys,  out  of  a  mortlEeSffund.  EhgHIEls  taagEt  at 
is.  the  quarter;  writing  and  arithmetic  at  is.  5d.  WiUk 
the  emolamVnU  of  prcccmor  and  rcISoncIefE,  fhelncocne 
ym  not  exceed  L.  17  or  L.  18  Sterling.  N&r  the  nor^iem 
extremity  of  the  parifh  is  another  fchool;  the  lalary  about  a 
guinea,  and  L.  i  :  12  : 0  Sterling  forTca'chinJ'S'poSrBoys, 
out  o^  the  fame  nioftified  fund.  There  Ts  generally  a  Hurd 
fchool,  without  falary,  in  winter,  "at  the  fouthern  extremity 
of  the  par'tfh.  In  both  thefe  Taft,  education  is  at  \%.  the 
quarter;  and  the  maftcrs  have  the  "privilege  *oT  going  about 
with  the  fcliolars,  and  lodging  with  their  parents^  ^Tbc 
number  of  the  fcholars  at  the  three  fchoolsi  taken  together^ 
may  be  alx)ut  1 20'. 

Poor. — The  poor  belonging  to  this  parifh  are  well  pro* 
Tided.  Beddcs  the  ordinary  colle^ions,  there  are  the  follow- 
ing funds.  Mr  Andrew  M<Murray  merchant  in  Londofa  left 
L.  100,  the  yearly  intercft  of  which  b  to  be  applled'tb  the 
benefit  of  the  fchoolmafter,  for  educating  ao  poor  boys,  na- 
'tives  of  this  parifh.  The  late  Atidrew  M'Dotral,  Efq;  Lord 
Bankton,  one  of  the  Judges  of  the  Court  oYSeiSlon,  left  to 
the  poor  of  this  parifh  L.  100.  The  yearly  Intereft'is  ditiiled 
among  them.  The  late  William  Adair,  Efq^  of  Flizton, 
left  to  the  poor  L»  400,  3  pit  ctnu  cottfol.  annuity.    Thefe 

three 


motbi  worthy  ^1  f ecbrd,  * 


od  :/..«     5.  .»■-  X 


rircn  a  third  within  thcie  few  ye^KS  ''^^Miik  4<^#;Mi^iffli» 
got  20  s,  per  hall  year  now  get  30  s.  or  more }  male  iervants, 
who  formerly  got  L.  2,  or  L.  2  :  10  :  o  per  half  year,  now 
get  L.  3  : 3  :  o,  or  L.  3  :  10  :  o  j  fome  get  L.  4.  A  day-la- 
bouf«/|  wages  is  6d.  with,  and  10  d.  or  I  s.  without  visuals. 
The  price  of  pouhry  is  pretty  reafonablc  j  butcher  meat  is  2id. 
per  lb.  when  plentiful ;  when  fcarce,  it  riics  confiderably. 
There  is  no  market  nearer  than  Stranraer.  The  ale-houfes 
in  this  parifli  were  numerous  till  of  late  j  but  the  new  regu- 
lation of  liccniing  the  houfes  of  pcrlbns  of  a  fair  charaAer^ 
it  is  to  be  hoped^  will  be  attended  with  the  happieft  confe* 
quences.  There  are  three  of  thefe  houfes  licenfed  ii^  this 
parifh. 

Mifcellamous  O^rtwfwiw.— There  is  plenty  of  whin-ftone 
in  the  parifli.  Iheflate  quarries  are  thought  valuable,  if 
properly  wrought.  A  good  deal  of  the  flate  is  fent  to  mar« 
kct.  There  are  fevcral  caves,  curiofities  of  their  kind  j  in 
one  of  them  there  is  a  petrifying  water,  which  drops  from 
the  roof.  In  another  on  the  eaftem  ihore,  according  to  tra- 
dition, a  hermit  lived.  The  fuel  here  is  peat  and  turf  5  and 
thefe  at  fcarce,  as  much  of  the  moor  ground  has  been  con* 
verted  into  arable  land.  The  winter  is  generally  moderate. 
The  air  is  reckoned  very  wholefome.  More  flax  is  raifed 
than  formerly ;  and  the  ground  is  proper  for  it.  A  lint-mill 
crcfted  in  the  parifli  would  be  a  farther  encouragement.  The 
farmers  bring  their  lime  from  Whitehaven  or  Ireland,  and 
pay  I  s.  2  d.  per  Carlifle  bufliel,  which  is  three  Wincheftcr 
buflicls.    Th«  truftecs  arc  making  every  exertion  to.  put  the 

high. 


kigh4m4i  Id  fiod  Older.  The  fond  tfifct  from  cic^liiDfb- 
holder,  except  the  poor*  poying  i  s.  8  d.  ^^year,  and  every 
£u*fn  15 1.  for  the  100  pounds  Scott  Talitttion.  PUntariont 
of  ireet  do  AOt  thrive  vett  her^  I  tiie  keen  air  Uoviqg  firoai 
the  fto  chocking  iMr  growth.  .  . 


NUM. 


NUMB£R    X3t 
PARISH  OF  TINWALIX 

3jf  tbi  Rto*  Mr  jAiiSt  LlUftiB* 


Kami^  Skuatmt^  Extent^  Saii,  Isf^. 

TINWALD,  fuppofed  to  be  derived  from  the  Gadie, 
and  fignifying  the  harbour^  or  from  the  Saxoo,  the 
houfe  m  m  wod,  is  fituated  in  tbe  county,  fynod,  and  prefby- 
tery  of  Dnznfiries.  TrailSat,  probably  too  of  Gaelic  extrac- 
tion, and  figntfying  ^Jloping  vfitjde^  was  joined  to  Tinwald 
b  1650.  The  form  of  thefe  united  pari(hes  is  nearly  an  ob» 
long  of  about  6  miles  by  4.  The  parifli  of  Kirkmahoe  is  the 
boundary  on  the  north  and  north- weft  ;  Dumfries  and  For« 
thcrwald  on  the  fouth  and  fouth-weft}  Kirkmichael  and 
I^ochmaben  on  the  eaft  and  fouth  eaft.  The  water  of  Ae 
feparates  the  pari(h  firom-Kirkmichael.  It  is  a  pleafant  ftream^ 
abounding  in  trout,  and  fea-fi(h  in  their  fcafbn.  It  falls  iot9 
Annan  a  little  above  Lochm^ben.  The  parifh  is  feparatcd 
from  Eirkmihoe  and  Dumfries  on  tbe  weft  and  fouth- weft 
by  a  fmall  ftrcam  called  Lochar,  whicht  about  a  quarter  of  a 
fntle  bdow  this,  enters  into  an  eztenTive  mofs,  called  Lochar 
Mois,  1 1  or  1 2  miles  in  length,  and  in  fome  places  3  ia 
|>readth.  It  fupplies  tbe  inhabitants  of  Dumfries,  and  the 
furrounding  neighbourhood,  with  fuel.  T)iere  was  a  Icherae^ 
about  JO  years  ago,  to  cut  a  canal  from  Solway  Frith  to 

I  Lochir- 


Lochar-brldge  at  the  head  of  this  mofs.  There  is  only  a  fall 
of  14  feet  from  it  to  the  fca«  The  eftimate  of  the  expence 
IS  faid  to  have  been  L.  I0|000.  Befides  the  benefit  arifing 
from  a  commtinicaJloii  wkh  fheTeti  the  greateft  part  of  this 
extenfive  nv>rais  woald  have  been  rendered  arable,  or  fine 
meadow  ^upd.  in  19  pre^^t  i^^  f  i¥t^>  ^thcre  are 
confiderable  traAs  of  excellent  meadow  along  the  banks  of 
rivulets  which  run  into  it  from  the  high  grounds  on  all  fides. 
There  are  llkewife  ftveral  good  farms  in  different  places  on 
the  higher  parts  of  the  mofs,  on  both  fides  of  Lochar,  which 
divides  it  nearly  into  *  two  equal  parts.  ~  There  is  a  tradition, 
univerfally  credited,  that  the  tide  flowed  up  this  whole  tra£t 
above  the  higt^eft  bridge  in  the  nerghbaqrhoQ4«  In  the  bot- 
tom of  the  mofs  fea-mud  is  foqnd  $  and  the  banks  arc  cvi- 
dcntly  compofed  of  fea-fand.  A  few  years  ago,  a  cano«  of 
confiderable  fize,  and  in  perfeA  prefervatton,  was  found  by  a 
former,  when  digging  peats,  4  or  $  feet  below  the  furface, 
about  4  miles  above  the  prcPent  flood^marki  but  it  was  de- 
ftroyed  before  any  Antiquarians  had  heard  of  it.  Near  the 
fame  part  of  the  mofs,  and  about  the  lame  depth,  a  gentle* 
man  found  a  vefiel  of  mixed  metal,  containing  about  an  Eng- 
)i(h  quart,  fuppofed  by  fome  to  be  a  Roman  modius^  and  by 
others  to  be  of  much  greater  antiquity,  as  the  Phoenicians, 
according  to  tradition,  traded  with  the  natives  for  tin,  feveral 
hundred  years  before  the  Romans  had  difcovered  the  ifland. 
The  vefTel  is  ftill  prefcrv^d.  Antiquities  of  various  kinds  are 
found  in  every  part  of  this  mofs  where  peats  are  dug,  even 
near  its  head,  fuch  as  anchors,  oars,  &c. }  fo  that  there  is  no 
doubt  of  its  having  been  navigable  near  a  mile  above  the 
higheft  bridge,  and  fully  1 2  miles  above  the  prefent  flood 
mark.  Near  the  nian(e  there  is  a  narrow  gut,  betwceh  two 
fandy  hillocks^  called  CoUyveat,  fuppofed  to  be  a  corruption 
^f  ColUn^s  boatj  where  it  is  thought  tticre  was  a  ferry,  which 

indeed 


tfTtnwald.  i5i 

indeed  wdfoid  be  Very  necefiaiy,  on  the  fuppofition  of  the 
tide  flowing  there.  Lochar,  after  a  courre  of  1 1  or  12  miles 
below  thi$,  falls  into  the  Solway  Frith.  It  abounds  with 
pike.  The  moft  of  this  parifh  is  arable.  The  fouthern  part 
is  much  more  fertile  than  that  which  lies  towards  the  north 
and  eaft ;  and  the  harveft,  in  general^  is  three  or  four  weeks 
earlier.  The  fouthern  part  is  of  a  deep  dry  loamy  foil,  and 
produces  wheat,  barley,  and  oats«  of  the  bcft  quality.  The 
north-eaft  part  produces  all  thefe,  though  of  an  inferior  qua-^ 
lity,  the  foil  being  moftly  wet,  and  lying  on  a  bed  of  till. 
A  gentle  rifing  ridge,  running  from  north  to  iouth»  divides 
the  united  parilh. 

jfit  and  Difiimpfrs.^^The  air,  in  generaU  is  dry,  and  rec* 
koned  healthy.  There  have  been  no  prevalent  diftcmpers 
during  thefe  laft  30  years.  The  meafles  are  fometimes  £ital, 
efpeclally  to  ad^s  \  but  they  feldom  appear  above  onee  in 
10  or  12  years.  The  fmaiUpox  was  juftly  dreaded  about 
fiO  years  ago;  but,  as  innoculation  is  now  generally  adopted^ 
that  difeale  is  become  le(s  fatal. 

^griculiurtf  Sbeep^  £jV.— Agriculture  was  in  a  very  imper« 
{e£t  ftate  previous  to  1762.  Potatoes  of  a  proper  kind,  and 
the  plaDtiog  of  them  with  the  plough  in  drill  rows,  Was  in- 
troduced after  this  period,  as  well  as  the  cultivation  of  clover 
and  rye^grafs.  Lime  and  manure  were  unknown,  except  on 
a  few  acres  of  what  Is  called  cnft^land^  which  was  nsver  out 
erf*  crop.  Every  farm,  except  grafs  ones,  of  between  L  30 
and  L.  40  of  yearly  rent,  may  be  ftated  as  railing  2  acres  of 
wheat,  4  of  barley,  about  14  or  15  of  oats,  and  2  of  potatoes. 
Rje  is  not  much  cultivated  here,  as  it  is  thought  to  be  a 
robbing  crop.  The  raidng  of  turnip  is  found  to  be  beneficial^ 
and  has  increafed  greatly  within  theie  two  years.    The  far* 

Vol.  J.  X  mcrs 


l62  Stdil/iical  Acc$unt 

sners  aie  alfo  begmning  to  raife  cabbage.    Thqr  gefieiPaDy 
lay  out  their  wheat  and  barley  fields  with  dover  and  rye- 
grafs,  which  produce  excellent  crops.    They  in  general  be- 
gin to  fow  oats  about  the  loth  of  Ma^h,  barley  iiir  the  end 
of  April  or  beginning  of  May,  and  wheat  In  the  mtath  of 
OAober.    They  reap  their  wheat  and  barley  abont  the  nud- 
die  of  Auguft;  the  oat  crop  immediately  focceeds;  and  in 
good  years  the  harvefl!  is  concluded  in  the  fouthern  paH  of 
the  pariih  before  the  end  of  September.    The  avenge  rosl 
of  the  beft  arable  land,  except  three  £irraS|  h  fron>  15  s.  to 
L.  1:3:0  per  acre }  meadow  i  h   is.;  paiturage,  not  in 
tillage,  though  arable,  3  s.  and  4  s. ;  inferior  arable  finom  5  s* 
to  IDS.  The  average  fize  of  farms,  excluding  the  three  large 
ones  already  mentioned^  is  about  100  acres.     There  are  few 
indofures  in  the  parifli,  but  the  peopk  are  very  much  con- 
vinced of  their  utility*    Since  the  commencedienl  of  the  new 
]eafi;9,  land,  formerly  uncultivated^  has  becl^  greatly  impro* 
ved.    The  parifh  not  only  fupplies  it(elf  with  provifions^  but 
annually  exports  coDfiderable  quantities  of  wheat,  barley, 
oats,  oatmeal,  and  potatoes,  of  the  bcil  kind.    The  farmiecs, 
in  general,  have  a  very  fine  breed  of  cattle,  rather  above  the 
middle  fize.    Tinwald  parks  and  ihaws,  confiding  of  about 
1500  acres,  are  remarkable  for  producing  the  beft  fat  cattle 
and  Iheep  in  this  part  of  the  country.    Ihere  are  about  6a 
or  70  fcopc  of  (heep  in  the  pariih.     Of  late,  an  attempt  has 
been  made  to  improve  the  breed,  for  the  lake  of  the  wool, 
part  of  which  is  now  fold  at  14  or  1$  ihilliogs  per   ftooe, 
though,  formerly,  7  or  8  Ihillings  was  the  common  price.   A 
few  of  the  Spanifh  fhecp  have  been  procured,  jUad  fomc  of 
the  bhctland  kind  are  wanted.    The  excellent  pafture  here 
has  hitherto  been  found  to  improve  greatly  every  kind  that 
has  been  put  upon  It.     Should  the  fpirit  of  improving  the 
wool  become  general,  it  would  be  a  fource  of  immcnfe  wealth 

to 


tDtheViDgdoin,  and  prevent  our  .being  ibb^e^d  to  the  ca- 
price of  a  foreign  power  for  this  important  article.  The  reo* 
tal  of  the,  parifh  is  about  L.  2559. 

£optdatiff0.*T'The  inhabitants  were  more  numerous  many 
years  ago^  by  fome  hundreds,  xhan  at  prefent ;  ten  or  more 
tenants  fometimes  being  turned  out  with  their  cottagers  to 
aake  way  for  one.  In  fome  inftances,  only  the  herdfmam  is 
retained  in  the  farm.  By  the  ftate  of  the  population  given 
to  Dr  Webfier,  the  nucpber  was  79P  The  inhabitants  at 
preient  amount  to  ^50.  The  papulation  is  increafed  about 
70  fince  1 785. 

Males  *  .  •  •  «  419 

Females  •  •  -  «       ,     -  431 

Married  •  •  .  •  .  152 

Average  of  chHdren  firom  a  marriage  between        -      5  or  6 
Children  under  8  years  of  age  -  -  133 

Heritors  -  -    .        -  -  -  3 

Farmers      ■-•.*.  55 

Cart  and  |dough  wxights  •  •  .-  3 

XVheelwrights  ......         I 

MaTont        .  .....  2 

Blackfrniths  .  .  ...  4 

Weavers        ...  .-  ..9 

Siioemakers  .....  4 

Taylors         -  -  •  -  -  -         4 

.Secedcrs         -  •  «  •  --ai 

Komao  CathoKc  families  -  -  .        .        x 

Inhabited  boufes  *  -  -  -  l8» 

The  proportion  of  the  annual  births  and  deaths,  is  i  x  or 
IX  to  7* 


%64  StatytUa!  Jee^wa 

Paor.'^Tbe  miinbcr  of  the  poor  in  this  parifli  varies  ftoa 
^4  to  20.  They  are  tnaintaincd  bf  the  weekly  contribotiooi 
which  is  about  L.  15  ^^  annum,  and  firooi  a  fiind  of  L.  14O1 
mortified  by  (everal  individaals  for  that  purpo(e«  There  is 
too  inftance  of  any  of  them  going  out  of  the  pari(h  i  and  thej 
are  feldom  troublefome  to  the  inhabitants. 

Price  cf  Labour  and  Prm^tns.^^Tht  ordinary  wages  for  la- 
bourers in  hufbandry  is  1  s.  without,  or  8  d«  with  viduals* 
A  married  man  prefers  the  (hilling.  Their  families  are  ge- 
nerally iupponed  dececently.  None  of  them  are  known  to 
be  in  want,  or  even  to  receive  charity.  Carpenters,  brick- 
layers, and  mafons,  have  from  is.  6  d.  to  is.  lo  d.  without 
^idtuals;  taylors  8d.  with  viAuals ;  male fervants  from  L.  (5 :  is 
to  L.  10  and  u)ore  per  annum,-  maid  fervants  from  L.  2 :  10 
to  L.  4*  ''he  pref'ent  price  of  beef  is  from  3  s,  6  d.  to  5  s.  6d« 
per  itone^  veal  is  between  3d.  and  4d.  per  lb.  $  mutton 
from  3  d.  to  5  d. ;  lamb  about  3d;  pork  3  d.  and  4  d«  The 
price  of  a  dnck  is  from  8  d.  to  i  s. ;  of  a  gooie  i  s*  10  d.} 
chic  kcD&  arc  '.  d.  and  8  d.  per  pair }  butter  from  7  d.  to  1 1  d. 
per  lb  \  common  cheefe  from  3  d,  to  a  d.  The  Carlifle 
bufticl.  or  3  Winchcftcr  bufhcis  of  wheat,  fells  from  16  s.  to 
L.  1:1:0;  barley  from  2  s.  to  3  s.  per  Winchefter  bafhcl, 
^nd  fomerimes  mores  oats  from  2  s.  to  2  s.  6d.  and  often 
more  5  o^t  meal  from  i  s.  to  2  s.  4  d.  per  ftonc.  The  price 
of  labour  and  provifions  is  nearly  doubled  within  the<e  hft 
30  years. 

Church  and  Stipend. — ^l^he  church  of  Tinwald  was  rebuilt 
in  1763.  The  manfe  was  built  in  1720,  but  has  been  feveral 
times  repaired.  New  offices  with  flate  roofs  were  built  about 
12  years  ago  \  and  the  whole  repaired  in  1790.  The  ftipend 
is  L.  77  ; 4  ;o«    Ih^  glebe  coolifis  of  15  acreS|  and,  taken 

along 


tfTirwald.    ;  164 

{ibng-with  th«  manie  and  ofBces,  may  be  rated  at-  between, 
I^  15  and  L.  20.  The  King  is. patron  of  the  old  pariflx  of 
Trailflatj  and  the  Dokc  of  Quecnlbcrry  of  Tinwald, 

Antiquities. — A  branch  of  the  Roman  road  from  Brunfi 
wark  runs  through  the  pviflics  of  Dryfdale  and  Lochmabenji 
enters  the  old  pai  iih  of  Trailflar,  and  paifes  by  Atnisficld 
houfe,  where  there  are  very  diftindl  traces  of  an  ancient  caf" 
Ullum  This  road  terminates  in  the  parifh  of  Kirkmahoe,  at 
the  ftnall  village  of  Dunfcorc,  There  are  alfo  very  diftinft 
traces  of  a  Briufh  fort  on  the  top  of  Barfell  Hill|  about  a  mile 
from  the  church.     . 

Emifunt  Men ^Thc  famous  Paterfon,  who,  it  is  faid,  plan- 
ned the  Darien  fchcme,  the  Bank  of  England,  &c.  was  bora 
^t  Skipmyte^  a  farm  in  the  old  pari(h  df  Trailflat,  about  the 
year  1660.  He  does  not  feem  to  have  .been  an  obfcure  Scotch- 
maiit  as  a  certain  writer  ftiles  him  }  he  more  than  once  re« 
prefentfd  Dumfries,  &c,  in  the  Scotch  parliament.  The 
ftme  houfe.gave  birth  to  his  grandpcphew,  Dr  James  Moun« 
fey,  firft  phyfician  for  many  years  to  the  Emprefs  of  Ruflia. 
The  widow,  who  now  enjoys  the  farm,  is  fifter  to  Dr  John 
Rodgerfon^  who  fuccccded  Dr  Mounfcy  as  firft  phyfician  to 
the  Emprefs* 

Miscellaneous  OhfemMtiom — With  regard  to  the  advantages 
•f  this  parifh,  it  may  be  obferved,  that  a  fpring  of  fine  water 
may  be  found  in  almoft  every  field.  It  is  interfefted  in  va- 
rious places  by  fine  rivulets.  It  is  near  the  market  town  of 
Dumfries.  The  turnpike  road  to  Edinburgh  paflcs  through 
it,  on  which  a  mail  coach  runs  once  a  day,  and  a  diligence 
often  three  times  a  week.  Other  roads  in  the  parifh  arc 
f cry  bad :   There  is,  however,  fufficlency  of  money  for  re- 

pairs* 


i66  StaiifRcal  Aceinna 

pairs.  The  ftatute  labour  is  commuted.  The  general  opi* 
nion  is  much  in  favour  of  turnpikes.  One  oC  the  moft  ez« 
tenfive  bleachfislds  in  Scotland  is  carried  on  at  Trailfiat« 
There  are  onl^  3  fmall  villages.  There  is  one  lake  of  aboat 
5  or  6  acres  in  extent.  It  is  faid  that  a  fct  of  farm  bodes 
once  ftood  on  the  fpot  which  this  lake  now  occupies,  and  that 
they  were  funk  by  an  earthquake.  Almoft  every  farmer  has 
two  carts.  Two  horfes  will  draw,  in  light  finglc  carts,  \6 
creels  of  coal  from  Sanquhar  with  greater  eafe  than  10  creels 
in  a  heavy  double  cart'  In  1782,  the  parifh  not  only  fup- 
plied  itfetf,  but  exported  grain  in  confiderable  quantities. 
Property  in  land  has  been  frequently  changing  \  but  foxne 
farms  have  been  rented  by  the  fame  family  for  the  fpace  of 
300  years.  About  nine  years  ago  the  parifh  abounded  whh 
wood  \  but  only  a  few  trees  now  remain.  The  woods  oa 
one  cftate  fold  for  L.  6000  1  he  people,  with  a  few  excep* 
tions,  are  induftrious  and  fober.  They  enjoy  many  of  the 
comforts  of  focicty :  Fhcir  houfcs,  however,  arc  in  geneiai 
mifcraWe  hovels.  Till  within  thcfc  two  or  three  years,  up- 
wards of  500  bufliels  of  malt  were  made  in  the  parifh  by 
different  tenants  for  their  own  ufe,  and  to  fupply  labourep 
set  a  reafonable  rate,  the?excife  of  which,  though  moderate, 
amounted  to  a  confiderable  fum  \  but  they  are  now  almoft 
totally  deprived  of  this  comfort,  owing  chiefly  to  the  feverity 
of  the  excife  laws,  and  are  in  danger  of  being  driven  to  the 
dram-Jbopt  which  is  at  once  pernicious  to  their  health  and  de- 
Aru£Uve  of  their  morals. 


NUM. 


rf€rofsmkha€k  mif^ 

NUMBER     XXI. 
i^AlilSH   OF  CROSSMICHAEL; 

By  the  Rev.  Mr  John  Johnstonb. 


Origin  of  the  Name. 

IN  old  writings,  the  name  of  this  parifh  is  Corfemkhacl i 
but  of  late  the  orthography  in  the  title  has  been  moire  in 
life.    The  etymology  is  obf  ioufly  Saint  Michael's  Crofs, 

Situatum^  Extent^  and  Surface.— This  parifh  lies  near  the 
center  of  the  ftewartry  of  Kirkcudbright,  in  the  prcfbytery 
of  Kirkcudbright,  and  fynod  of  Galloway.  It  is  nearly  of  a 
rcAangular  form.  Its  length,  from  north  to  fouth,  is  about 
5  Englifh  miles ;  and  its  breadth,  from  eaft  to  weft,  from  3  to 
4,  It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Parton ;  on  the  eaft  by  the 
river  or  water  of  Urr,  which  leparates  it  from  Kirkpatrick- 
Durham  and  Utr ;  on  the  fouth  by  Buittle  and  Keltoi^ ; 
and  on  the  weft  by  the  Dee,  which  fcparates  it  from  Balma* 
ghie.  About  a  fixth  part  of  this  parilh,  contiguous  to  its 
northern  borderj  is  raoftly  covered  with  heath  and  coarfc 
grafs,  and  contains  a  few  hills  of  moderate  elevation,  which 
in  general  are  rocky.  A  great  part  of  the  farms  in  tliis  neigh- 
bourhood is  capable  of  improvement,  and  is  daily  receiving 
It :  The  reft  of  the  parifli  prefehts  a  furfac^  very  beautifully 
diver Gfied.  The  land  rifes  in  the  form*  of  a  ridge  from  the 
twd  rWers,  and  is,  at  regular  diftanccs*  interfpcrfed  with  gcn«. 

tie 


t68  Statijiieal  JcciOM 

tie  fwellS)  or,  as  they  are  called,  knows,  all  of  wKich  are  arabl#j 
and,  when  properly  drefled,  have  a  fine  effe£t.  Along  the 
Dee  is  an  extenlive  and  fertile  valley. 

Sw/,  Climate^  feV. — ^Thc  foil  if  extremely  various  5  fuch  as 
loam,  meadow,  holm,  till,  gravelli(h  or  Tandy.  The  whole  is 
remarkable  for  producing  exuberant  crops  of  grain,  and  a 
Ijpecies  of  natural  grafs,  which,  though  not  tall,  is  excellent 
pafturage*  A  good  deal  of  rain  falls  in  moft  parts  of  the  weft 
of  Scotland.  There  is,  however,  rather  lefs  here  than  in  the 
adjacent  pariOies,  becaufe  the  high  hills  which  collect  the 
vapours,  and  break  the  clouds,  are  at  a  confiderable  diftance. 
The  air  is  by  no  means  moift :  Snow  frldom  lies  long ;  and^ 
on  the  whole,  this  place  is  as  healthy  as  any  in  Britain.  Since 
the  mofles  have  been  drained,  the  ague,  which  was  the  only 
prevalent  diftemper,  has  quite  difappcared.  The  two  rivers 
which  bound  its  eaftern  and  weftern  extremities^  promote  a 
conftant  circulation  of  air,  and  prevent  noxious  vapours  from 
collefting.  The  people  live  not  in  towns  or  villages,  and 
moft  of  them  are  employed  in  agriculture,  which  it  favou* 
rable  at  once  to  health,  longevity,  and  morals.  Within  thcfe 
20  years,  at  lead  1 2  perfons  have  died  in  the  lower  parts  of  Gal- 
loway, from  too  to  115  years  old.  William  Marfhal,  a  tinker 
in  this  place,  is  now  118.  He  might  pafs  for  a  man  of  6o« 
His  facuhies  are  unimpaired,  and  he  walks  through  the  coun- 
try with  eafe.  One  thing  muft  here  be  ftated  as  highly  per- 
nicious. The  advanced  duties  on  malt  have  almoft  entlrely^ 
aboliflied  the  praftice  of  brewing.  Ale-houfcs  no  longer  ex- 
HI;  but  dram-houfcs  have  been  fubftituted  in  their  place, 
which  the  chcapncfs  of  whiflcy,  and  the  contraband  trade  in 
foreign  fpirits  carried  on  in  this  country,  tempt  the  people 
to  frequent  too  much. 

Lately 


gf  Crq/ipiubaeL  i6g 

LdiJ$  RiverSy  ani  Canals. — ^Thcrc  arc  two  I Ae$  or  lochs 
to  be  taken  notice  of.    Erogrogo  Loch  is  remarkable  for  two 
fmalliflands  on  it,  .which  are  breeding  places  for  Tea- gulls, 
that  repair  thither  in  great  quantities  at  the  proper  feafon. 
Loch  Rohn,  or  Roan,  fomewhat  larger  than  the  tormer,  is  a 
very  great  natural  curiofity.     Its  fuperficial  contents  are  from 
36  to  49  acres,  and  its  depth  is  from  10  to  22  fathoms.     It 
is  fituatcd  in  the  higheft  part  cf  the  adjacent  country.     No 
rivulets  or  ftrcams  run  into  it,  nor  has  it  any  vifible  fupply 
except  the  clouds.     Its  waters  are  exceedingly  clear,  and, 
ualcis  .the  froft  be  very  intenfe,  it  feldotn  freezes.     At  the 
mouth  of  the  Urr  thearc  is  a  fmall  harbour^  at  which  Englilh 
lime  and  «oals  are  inxported*  and  grain  and  meal  exported. 
The  Dee  is  formed  by  the  junftion  of  the  Dee  and  the  Ken, 
two  miles  mnl  a  half  above  the  head  of  this  parxfli,  whence 
they  proceed  in  their  courfe  mftder  the  name  of  the  Dee,  till 
they  hll  into  the  ica  below  Kirkcudbright.     The  breadth  of 
the  Dec,  oppofitc  to  this  parifli,  is  from  700  to  2220  feet. 
There  arc  feveral  fords  when  tlie  water  is  low ;  but  all  of 
them  ar£  dangerous,  and  hf ve  been  fatal  to  feveral  perfons, 
as  the  pools  are  not  feen  on  account  of  the  blacknefs  of  the 
water.    There  are  two  ferries  here  :   One  is  called  the  Boat 
of  Balmaghiej  and  about  a  mile  above  is  the  Boat  of  Living- 
fton.    The  water  here  is  45  feet  deep;  and  this  is  the  place 
at  which  the  canal^  to  be  afterwards  mentioned,  would  join 
the  Dec.     The  meadows  along  the  Dec,  which  are  very  ex- 
tcnfive,  never  fail  to  be  laid  uader  water  after  a  heavy  fall  of 
rain.  During  the  winter,  the  floods  are  fo  frequent,  and  leave 
fuch  quantities  of  fand,  that  the  meadows  are  rendered  unfit 
for  pafturage.     In  fome  places,  earthen  banks  or  mounds 
have  been  created,  are  creeling,  or  may  be  ereftcd  with  ad- 
vantage ;  but  by  far  the  greater  part  of  the  nieadows  cannot 
poflihly  be  faved  from  the  inundations.    Some  years  ago,  Mr 

Vol.  I.  Y  Gordon 


1 70  StattJlUat  Account 

Gordon  oF  Culvennan,  at  his  own  expence,  cot  a  canal  to 
conncA  the  Dee  with  Carlinwark  Loch.  Thusi  boats  carry* 
ing  firom  lo  to  24  cart  load  of  marie  each,  pafled  up  to  New 
Galiowayi  (ituated  15,  miles  from  the  loch.  Marie  fold  at 
the  loch  at  I  s.  per  cart  load  ^  or  21  cubical  feet  was  fitrid  at 
Mew  Galloway  at  is.  9  d. ;  and  proportionally  lower  at  other 
places  by  the  way.  The  canal  is  only  on  a  fmall  fcale,  and 
at  prefent  out  of  repair.  The  rocks  at  Tongland  bridge,  and 
its  ihailownefs  between  them  and  this  place,  prevent  the  Dee 
from  being  navigable  for  8  or  10  miles.  It  mightj  however, 
be  connected  with  the  fea  at  two  places  by  a  canal,  by  which 
veflels  might  carry  up  the  means  of  Improvement  to  a  coon* 
try  that  wants  them,  and  return  with  fuel  to  one  in  which 
the  want  of  this  neceflary  article  prevents  the  iBtrodii£tion  of 
manufactures.  An  aftual  furvey  has  lately  been  made;  and, 
from  the  eftimates  of  ikillful  engineers,  it  appears  that  the 
wiihed  for  communication  might  be  opened  for  L,  9000.  A 
curious  fa£t  has  been  afcertained  by  Mr  Copland^  via.  that 
the  rivers  in  this  neighbourhood  have  confiderably  decreafed 
of  late,  and  that  the  Urr  did  not  difcharge  into  the  fea  a 
third  part  of  the  water  it  did  40  years  ago.  Mr  Copland  thus 
accounts  for  this  ftriking  phenomenon.  Land  ancakivated, 
and  covered  with  heath,  Is  almoft  impenetrable  by  water ; 
and,  of  courfe,  the  rain  that  falls  muft  run  off  its  fur&ce  into 
the  channels  of  the  rivers.  This  was  the  ftate  of  the  land 
here  till  it  began  to  be  improved  by  marie  and  lime.  The 
application  of  thefe  manures  pulverifes  the  ground,  and 
prepares  it  for  abforbiog  the  rain.  Befides,  as  it  is  well  knowa 
that  water  is  a  material  part  of  the  food  of  plants,  *lels  of  it 
will  be  left  to  flow  into  a  river,  when  at  leaft  ^  four  blades  of 
<<  grais,  and  four  ears  of  com,  have  been  made  to  grow  oa 
«  its  banks,  where  there  vas  only  one  before.** 


.^  Crofsmkbaeh  17 1 

i<^.«-*The  Unr  abounds  with  trouts,  and  a  great  many 
£diDon  come  tQ  fpawn  in  it ;  but  few  are  taken  or  fold  here* 
There  is  ajgreat  falmop  filhcry  on  the  Oee  at  Kirkcudbright^ 
and  another  at  Tonglandi  about  ttvo  miles  above  It.  The  fal- 
mon  of  the  Dec  are  of  a  darker  colour,  and  much  fatter,  than 
thofe  of  moft  other  rivers  in  the  fouth  of  Scotland.  Few  of 
them  get  over  the  ileep  rocks  at  Tongland  except  when  the 
water  is  fwelled,  and  thofe  that  do  are  obliged  to  make  the  bed 
of  their  way  poft  the  loch  of  Ken,  as  its  inhabitants  are  not  re- 
markable for  hofpitality:  Thcfe  are,  the  pike  or  gcd,  the  perch, 
and  the  eel.  The  pike  are  found  here  in  great  perfeftion,  and 
of  an  uncommon  fize :  They  are  always  in  feafon  when  the  wea- 
ther permits  them  to  be  caught.  They  are  caught  with  the 
fly,  or  with  lines  baited  with  bum  trouts  or  frogs. '  1  he  perch 
were  firft  introduced  into  this  river  and  loch  in  the  year 
1750,  by  the  late  Alexander  Copland,  Efq^  of  Colliefton. 
Since  that  time  they  have  multiplied  remarkably,  and  are 
now  taken  in  great  quantities,  efix;cially  about  midfummcr, 
by  thofe  who  fiih  with  worm  baits  iov  amuiement.  The  eels 
are  never  interrupted  in  their  poiTeflion  of  the  waters,  as  the 
country  people  have  an  infuperable  prejudice  againft  feeding 
On  an  animal  which  fo  itrongly  refembles  the  ferpcnt.  The 
tale,  however,  was  different  in  former  times.  In  the  dark 
ages,  when  the  art  of  cookery  was  but  Iktle  underitood,  tiiere 
wasy  \n  this  parifli,  a  fiOiery  of  eek,  which  were  exported  to 
Italy.  This  is  mentioned  by  HeAor  Boethius,  and  after  him 
by  Buchanan* 

Pppu/ation.'^As  records  hzve  not  been  regularly  kept,  the 
anttent  ftate  of  population  here  cannot  be  precifely  afcertain- 
ed.  The  knowledge  of  fome  fadls  hath  however  been  pre- 
fcrvcd.  From  the  year  1751  to  ^^6i  the  baptifms  were  128, 
being,  on  an  average,  about  13  yearly.   For  the  16  following 

yeart 


172  Siaii/lkal  jfccomt 

years  about  17  ye^lj,  a^  the  whole  amountecl  to  27^.  Ac- 
cording to  the  return  made  to  Dr  Webfter  about  40  years 
ago,  this  pari  A  contained  613  fbufi*  On  an  aAual  enumera- 
tion, it  was  found,  on  the  tft  January  1791,  to  contain  772. 
The  inhabitants  have  therefore  increaled  159  fince  that  time. 
At  prefcnt,  there  are  perfons 

Under  10  years  of  age  -  -  -  '  aoo 

Between  10  and  20  -  -  -  125 

ao 50        -         -  -        -  -        33^ 

50 70  -  -  -  .  82 


-o 90 


Total  772 
Of  thefe  380  are  males,  ami  392  are  females.  They  occupy 
163  houfcs,  14  of  which  have  only  one  inhabitant  each.  In 
one  village  there  are  70,  and  In  another  36  fouls.  All  the 
reft  live  in  the  country* 

Abftra£l,  for  the  laft  f^ven  years,  of 

Baptifms.^  Marriages.  Deaths. 


1784 

30 

- 

3 

- 

}6 

178J 

23 

m 

I 

m 

li 

1786 

»9 

- 

4 

-    . 

■7 

1787 

24 

- 

6 

- 

8 

1788 

at 

- 

S 

9 

1789 

24 

- 

a 

-* 

3 

1790 

«7 

- 

10 

• 

6 

Total         148  31  60 

Average  nearly    21  4  8 

Of 


^  CrofsmkhieL  tj^ 

Of  thofc  i?ho  have  died  in  the  -eonrfc  of  thcfc  (even  ytar»j 
12  were  under  4  years  of  age  \  9  front  60  to  70;  f6  froni 
70  to  85  ;  and  23  of  various  ages.  The  annnal  births  YaA6 
been  to  the  whole  population  as  t  to  36 ;  the  marriage  i^ 
I  to  192 ;  the  deaths  as  i  to  98.  This  laft  circumfta^oe  afl 
fords  a  ftriking  proof  of  the  uncommon  hcalthinefe  of ''flK 
i>lacc;  -  .       '  ■'''' 

Caufts  "wblch  have  affeEled  the  State  tf  Pofmlati<m.'^Vormcrlf 
there  were  a  conliJerable  number  of  loicrofis^  that  is,  fd^all 
pieces  of  land  kcpl  always  in  crop,  and  let  along  with'cotta-i 
gcs,  and  'the  privilege  of  grafs  for  one  or  two  c6ws.  TPlifc 
abolition  of  thcfe  about  20  or  30  ^cars  ago,  and  the  praSidfe 
of  throwing  ftvcral  fanns  into  one,  "occupied  chiefly  Tor  lEc 
purpofe  of  grazing,  gave  a  temporary  "check  to  population; 
A  very  largp  traft  of  the  fineft  land  in  this  parifh  wasjbr  a 
;)umber  of  years  in  the  puolTeflion  of  one  man,  who  neither 
refided  upon,  nor, ploughed  it.  Of  late,  marlc  and  lime 
have  contributed  greatly  to.  the  improvement  of  the  country; 
and,  as  agriculture  requires  more  h'ands  than  pafturage,  po- 
pulation has  be^n  increafing  with  rapidity.  The  farms  have 
been  reduced  to  a  fmaller  fize ;  and  only  three  are  occupied 
by  tenanu  who  do  not  refide  upon  tliem.  In  a  few  jcars  a 
conGdcrablc  number  will  probably  be  added  to  the  pebt^e,^ 
by  thcexecutjon  of  a  plan  adopted,  on  part  of  their  eftatcs,' 
by  three  gentlemen,  to  whom  a  large  portion  of  the  panA 
belongs.  The  plan  is  this  :  As  foon  as  a  leafc  expii'cs  (and 
feveral  hundred  acres  now  arc,  or  have  lately  been  in  the  na- 
tural poffeffion  of  the  proprietors)  the  'farm  is  parcelled  out 
into  fmall  lots,  from  4  to  15  acres  each  of  arable  ground. 
Thefc,  properly  fenced,  are  let  to  thofe  who  offer  the  high- 
ea  rent.  The  tenants  fue  houfe-fteads  and  gardens,  for  which 
they  pay  a  duty,  at  the  rate  of  L.  a  or  L,  4  P«  ^^^^  annually, 

and 


>y4 


Stai/Kcal  Aamif 


and  on  which  they  build  at  their  own  ezpeuce  what  hode^ 
thef  need*  Of  the  adjoining  park  they  get  a  19  years  leaie, 
at  about  doubk  the  rent  which  was  paid  by  farmers,  propcriy 
lb  called.  Several  of  thefe  lots  are  taken,  to  be  eDtered  on 
|iow^  or  at  W^itfunday  next.  The  tenaoU  are  either  traded 
men  or  laboorers,  who  propofe  to  confume  in  their  £unilies 
the  produce  of  the  land,  and  to  pay  the  rent  out  of  the  money 
they  receive  for  workbg  for  others. 

Divjfion  if  the  Iniaiitantf^^AccOTding  to. 


ift,  Place  of  Birth. 

3d,  Occupations, 

Natives  of  England            4 

The  ftewart  depute 

I 

Thcminifter 

t 

The  fchoolmafter      • 

1 

Highlpids     -         X 

Farmers  renting  L.  15^ 

Edinburgh      -       3" 

^ ..  L.  170   '       - 

4« 

Farmers  under  L.  15 

»? 

Weavers             i^ 

i 

Shoemakers 

4 

Total        77a 

Taylors  and  3  apprentices  f 

filackfmiths  and  i  do. 

3 

» 

Mafons  and  5  do. 

to 

Joiners  and  i  do. 

6 

ad.  Religious  Perfuafionso 

Dyer  and  i  do. 

i 

. 

Shopkeepers 

3 

Cameronians          -         14 

Small  innkeepets        * 

2 

Their  children        *         12 

Male  (ervants 

s* 

Antiburghers         •          15 

Female  fervants         «* 

54 

Their  children         •         9 

MiUar 

I 

Epifcopalians             *          2 

Labouring  cottagers 

ss 

Roman  Catholic         •        i 

Paupers          -           * 

7 

ri\..blilliLJ  church         719 

Familiesof  the  above,&c. 

49« 

Total        .771 

Total 

-p 

1 

Cl)ara3(r 

'  gf  CrofmUbatL  175 

tharaOer  rf  the  People. — ^In  their  reli^oos  rcotimentii  the 
inhaUttfitt  cl*  Galloway  are  apparently  more  united  than 
thofe  of  moft  other  partt  of  Scotland.  Within  the  boondf 
of  the  extcniive  prcfliytery  of  Kirkcudbright^  there  is  not  a 
diflcitting  mceting-hodle  of  any  defcription.  The  morals  of 
the  people  in  this  country  have,  from  three  caules,  fuftained 
material  injury.  Its  vicinity  to  Ireland  has  rendered  it  the 
receptacle  of  fome  of  the  leaft  refpeAable  of  the  inhabitants 
of  that  kingdom.  The  cattle  trade  it  lefs  favourable  tlum 
agriculture  to  fobriety  and  honefty :  But,  above  aU,  fmug- 
glingy  for  which  our  local  fituatlon  is  but  too  favourable,  tends 
to  relax  every  moral  obligation.  But,  while  thefe  general  re- 
marks are  made,  it  is  by  no  means  admitted  that  the  conduft 
of  the  inhabitants  of  this  pariih  fiirnifhes  any  extraordinary 
evidence  of  their  truth.  None  have  occaiion  to  beg  without 
the  bounds  of  the  paiilh.  Vagrants  never  repeat  without 
cffc£t  a  real  or  a  fi Aitious  tale  of  woe  \  and  when  extraordi- 
nary coUeAions  lire  made  for  any  charitable  purpofe,  thb  pa* 
ri(h  yields  not  to  any  of  its  neighbours  in  point  of  liberality. 
The  ftile  of  manners  are  fuch  as  may  be  expected  to  charac- 
terife  a  people  in  a  ftate  between  rudenefs  and  refinement^ 
pofiefled  of  a  competent  portion  of  the  comforts  of  life^  with- 
out having  obtained  the  means  of  luxury. 

Chunk.  (5*^.— The  manfe  was  built  in  17449  and  the 
church  in  1751*  Both  have  been  repaired  and  enlarged  fince 
the  ordination  of  the  prefent  incumbent.  Ten  acres  have 
been  added  to  5 1,  of  which  the  glebe  formerly  confifted.  By 
decreet  1 784,  the  ftipendsare,42boUs  viAual,  and L. 762:16:10 
8cou  money.  The  value  of  the  whole  living,  on  an  average^ 
may  be  L.  1 12  Sterling.  Alexander  Gordon  of  Culvennaui 
Efq;  is  patron.  Mr  John  Johnflonei  a  batchellori  b  the  pre» 
ient  incumbent. 


17^  St^i/Kcal  Auofmt 

*5fikioifr»— -lathe year  ^735^  William  Gordon,  £%  merchant 
in  Briftoly  bulk  afchool  and  ichoolmafter's  houfc;,  and  endowed 
it  m$h  a  falar^  of  L.  iQptr  annum^.j^u  condition  that  all  tkt 
chiUren  of  the  pariih  (liould  be  taught  gr/itis.  A»  the  eK* 
peiice  of  living  aivanccdi  the  fchool.i. utter  found  this  provi« 
fion  too  fmall  for  his /dpport.  In  the  yvjir  1  775,  he  prefcxAi^ 
cd  a  petition  to  the  comiailiioners  of  luppU^  a:  I  obtained  a 
legal  falary  of  200  mcrks  Scots.  His  Uving,  rliercforc,  in* 
cinding  gratuities  at  Candlemas,  may  amount  to  L.  23  on  an 
average,  ihe  houles  formerly  built  huving  become  ruinous, 
•new^ones  were  trcf£led  in  the  yrar  1787,  in  a  more  centrical 
fituatton^  and  the  expeuce  of  them  was  defrayed  out  of  the 
Taeant  ftipends,  which  fell  due  during  the  dependence  of  a 
law-^fuit,  ftixMt  the  right  of  patronage,  preyious  to  the  fettie- 
mqit  of  the  prelent  mioiOer.  At  this  (chool  about  60  chil- 
dren arc  inftruQed  in  Latin,  Knglifli,  writing,  arithmetic,  5cc. 
There  are  feveral  private  teachers,  whom  a  few  neighhouring 
femilics  employ  and  pay. 

Poor. — On  an  average,  fevcn  .or  eight  perfons  arc  main- 
tained by  alms.  At  prclbnt,  two  are  fupported  out  of  the 
paroclual  funds.  Five,  v!io  can  earn  part  of  their  fubfitlence, 
receive  a  fmall  qur^rterly  contribution  ;  and  three  others  are 
occafionally  relieved  as  their  nccefSties  require.  The  funds 
arifc  entifcly  from  the  voluntary  offerings  of  the  people.  The 
colleftions  in  the  church  are  about  L.  if)  per  annum.  The 
principal  heritor  m^'.ces  up  the  lofs,  which  the  poor  would 
pthcrwife  fudain  from  bis  non-reddence,  by  ordering  a  con* 
fiderablc  quantity  of  mesd  to  be  diflribnted  among  them  an- 
lioally,  according  to  the  dire Aion  of  the  (efllon,  and  by  fur« 
^ifliing  eon^ant  employment  in  his  gardens  and  policy  to  fe- 
yeral  old  and  bl'-nd  men,  at  the  rate  of  6  d.  per  day,  which 
prevents  them  from  becoming  public  burdens. 

The 


^pf  Crofimkhad.  177 

Whe  Prices  of  Provificns  and  Lahur^  and  the  Sapenca  tf  a 
hAourit^s  Pamilyy — Oifier  to  little  here  ^m  thofe  in  the  pa* 
pttx  of  Holywood,  that  the  reader  may  be  fafdy  referred  to 
Che  account  given  in  pages  26,  27,  an4  289  of  this  volume. 
It  inuft^  however,  be  obferved,  that  tljie  price  of  fome  articleis^ 
though  nominally  the  fame  in  both  places,  is  really  lower 
here  j  for  the  Kirkcudbright  pound  of  cheefe,  butter,  &c« 
coafiftmg  of  28  ouncesj  is  4  ounces  heavier  than  that  of  Duow 
fries.  Mea)  is  for  the  moft  part  i  d«  per  ftone  cheaper  here 
than  it  is  there.  A  great  part  of  the  haryeft  worlc  is  per* 
formed  by  perfons  from  tl^e  moors,  who  hire  for  the  whole 
harveft,  which  includes  reaping,  putting  in  the  crop,  and 
thatching  the  ftacks.  Their  wages  are  from  L,  i :  t :  o  to 
L.  1 : 6 :  o.  They  Qeep'and  are  maintained  in  the  farmers 
houfcs,  whether  the  weather  ^mits  them  to  work  or  not. 

Divifiant  Rent^  and  Price  ef  Land.— In  fhe  year  1771,  a  very 
accurate  map  of  this  parlfli  \i;ras  drawn  by  Mr  William  McCart- 
ney land  furveyor ;'  but,  as  this  map  was  never  engraven,  on- 
ly two  copies  are  extant.  The  number,  fizc,  and  rents  of  the 
eftates  are  as  under : 


fftates. 

Acres: 

Valuation, 

Real  Rent. 

2840 

L,  1286    0    0 

L.  1200 

923    . 

5^2    3    4 

450 

850 

as«  »3    4 

17Q 

244 

96    0    0 

100 

198 

J3J     0    0 

^38 

6. 

306 

92     0    0 

io; 

7- 

301 

/    95    0    0 

100 

Carried  over  5662  L.  2522  16    8  L.  2262 

Thefc  fcven  belong  to  non-reCdent  heritors. 
Vol.  I.  Z  I 


t78 

1 

^taSi/lkal  Accdunt 

Eftatcs. 

Acres. 

Valuation. 

Real  Rint. 

Scots. 

Sterling* 

Brought  over 

5662 

L.  2522  16    8 

L.  2263 

8. 

107* 

470  10    0 

63^ 

9-   * 

240 

150    0    0 

iS« 

10. 

208 

138    0    0 

100 

I  If 

350 

82  13    4 

U 

12. 

46 

27  10    0 

66 

13- 

66 

27  10    0 

66 

14. 

18 

12     0    0 

18 

15- 

8 

10    0    0 

8 

16. 

2 

20    0    0 

3 

Total   7696 


L.  3461     o    9 


The  proprietors  of  thefe  nine  reiide  upon  theou 


L.34iD 


The  moor  grounds  are  let,  an  an  average,  at  as.  or  2s.  6d. 
per  9cre  \  arable  apd  pafture,  of  inferior  quality,  from  6  s.  to 
I2>.»  the  beft  arable,  pafture,  and  meadow,  from  L.  i  to 
L.  1:10:0.  The  importance  of  inclofures  is  acknowledged, 
;ind  the  number  of  them  is  daily  increaQng.  A  gr^at  many 
farms  have  been  fold,  iince  the  laft  peace,  at  the  rate  of  £rom 
93  tQ  28  years  purchase. 

ImplcmenU  and  Operations  of  HuJbandry.-^^Thtre  arc  Z% 
ploughs,  1 20  carts,  and  218  horfes,  all  of  which,  except  a  few 
young  horfes,  are  employed  in  the  improvement  and  cultiva* 
tion  of  land.  This  is  a  country  in  a  middle  ftate  between 
pafturage  and  agriculture.  Of  late  years,  calcareous  manures, 
both  foreigi^  and  indigenous,  have  been  much  ufed,  and  leafes 
liavc  been  granted  on  terms  calculated  to  encourage  the  pur- 
chafe  and  application  of  them.  The  tenants  have  h  in  their 
power  to  plough  annually  a  fourth,  and  fome  a  third  part  of 
their  afab^c  ground,  provided  they  can  carry  on  their  ploush- 
'*  ing 


Ing  in  a  r^gdar  courfe,  always  opening  the  oldeft  groand 
firfti  and  taking  only  three,  or,  if  one  of  them  be  green* 
four  fucceilive  crops  from  the  fame  field,  and  allowing 
it  afterwards  to  reft  at  leaft  fix  years.  Except  potatoes,  few 
green  crops  are  raiied  here,  chiefly  owing  to  the  want  of  pro* 
per  fences  for  preferving  turnips  or  cabbages  from  the  cat« 
tle  during  winter;  and  alfo  beeaufe  the  practice  of  hou« 
fing  cattle  has  not  yet  become  general,  and,  of  courfc* 
fuch  quantities  of  dung  as  thefe  crops  would  require  are  not 
coUeSedk  Not  above  lo  or  la  acres  of  wheat  are  fown  an- 
nually ;  thofe  fown  with  barley  may  exceed  loo.  About  a 
third  part  of  the  lands,  as  it  goes  out,  is  fown  down  with  rye 
grafs  and  clover  feeds ;  add,  if  it  has  not  been  previoufly  im« 
poveriihed  by  over-cropping,  the  hay  produced,  both  in  point 
of  quantity  and  quality,  is  highly  valuable.  The  ftaple  grain 
is  oats.  The  fmall  or  grey  oats  have  almoft  entirely  given 
place  to  the  white  oats,  thoigh  they  are  ftill  lefs  pure,  and  of 
ao  inferior  quality  to  thofe  raifed  in  countries  where  improve? 
ments  have  been  longer  introduced.  Of  late,  fome  farmery 
have  cultivated  a  fpecies  of  black  oats,  which  are  fooner 
ripe,  and  yield  more  meal,  than  any  hitherto  tried.  In  ge* 
neral,  oats  raifed  from  ground  improved  with  marie  yield  le($ 
meal  than  thofe  from  ground  improved  with  lime,  beeaufe 
the  (hell  or  hull  of  the  former  oats  is  thicker.  The  marie, 
however,  is  found  to  be  the  beft  manure  for  grafs,  and  to  be 
peculiarly  adapted  to  the  foil  of  Galloway.  The  farmers  lay 
their  account  with  paying  one  term's  rent  out  of  the  profits 
of  tbeir  crop,  and  the  other  out  of  thofe  of  their  cattle.  Moft* 
of  the  marie  difcovered  in  this  parifh  has  been  exhauftcd. 
'the  principal  rcfource  now  is  the  loch  of  Carlinwark,  in  the 
parifii  of  Kelton,  which  abundantly  fupplies  the  demands  of 
the  country.  Thb  loch  wai  fold  three  years  ago  for  L.  2000. 


PrMbiSms.'^Ahaiat  So  acres  are  pkated  with  tftei,  att  of 
firhich  are  is  a  thrmng  eondhton.  Grafi  b  raUed  fer  the 
'!2i8  horfefl  mentioned  aborei  and  for  4  afles,  25  goats,  600 
fheepi  and  1840  black  cattle.  The  breeding  fyftem  b  in  ge- 
neral purfiied.  The  higheft  recommendaition  of  a  toir  is, 
that  (he  brings  op  a  good  beaft,  and  not,  as  dfeirhere,  that 
fhe  gives  much  milk ;  and  it  has  even  become  a  proverb,  that 
«*  a  good  farmer  would  rather  kill  his  old  fon  than  kill  a 
<«  calf.**  The  Gallowaf  cattle  have  one  clnraAeriftic  w^ch 
naturalifts  may  think  incredible ;  thtf  are  almoft  all  vrhhoot 
horns  I  Dr  Samnel  Johnfoh^  in  his  journey  to  the  Weftern 
Iflands,  (London  edition^  1775,  pag.  186),  has  the  fellomig 
notable  paflage :  «*  Of  their  Mack  cattle,  fome  are  wkhoot 
^<  horns,  called  bj  the  Scots  humble  co^s,  as  we  call  a  bee  a 
«.  «<  humble  bee  that  wants  a  fting.  Whether  this  diffcimacc 
«^  be  fpecific  or  accidental,  though  we  inquired  wti  great  £- 
«<  ligenciy  we  could  not  be  informed.  tVe  are  not  very  fure 
<<  that  the  bull  is  ever  without  horns,  though  we  Have  been 
^'  told  that  fuch  bulls  there  are.  What  is  produced  hj  put- 
'*  ting  a  homed  and  an  unhorned  male  and  female  together, 
<*  no  man  has  ever  tried,  who  thought  the  refult  worthy  of 
•«  obfervation.**  Though  it  may  favour  of  arrogance,  the 
high  authot'ity  quoted  muft  foe  flatly  contradifled.  There  is 
not  within  the  boonds  of  this  parifli  a  finglc  bull,  nor  a  male 
of  any  other  fpdcies,  except  a  few  goats  and  rams,  whh  horns. 
The  experiment  the  philofepber  wiihcd  for,  has  been  tried  a 
thoufand  times,  and  the  refult  has  been  obferved  to  be  a 
calfi  fometimes  with,  and  fbmetimes  without  horns,  but  ne- 
ver, as  the  Doflor  moft  probably  expelled,  an  unicorn.  A  few 
cattle  are  fatted  here  for  home  confnmption,  and  for  the 
Dumfries  market ;  but  the  far  greater  part  of  thofe  reared 
arc  difpofcd  of,  at  3  and  4  years  of  age,  to  the  drovers,  who 
carry  them  up  to  London^  but  chiefly  to  Norfolk  and  Sufibik. 

boaie 


9f  CrtifsnuchiuL  i8i 

Some  diiorert  torn  from  L.  30,000  to  1.  3;iOOo  fer  amwn. 
With  rcrpefk  to  other  provjfions,  this  partih  does  more  thail 
fupply  Itfclf.  At  Dumfries  there  b  a  ready  market  for  fat 
fwine,  which  are  bodght  up  and  cured  for  the  nie  of  the 
En^Ufli.  Some  barley,  and  a  very  great  quantity  of  oats  and 
oat*meal,  ire  annually  fent  by  land  carriage  to  New  Gallbwajr 
and  Damelliogtont  to  fupply  the  moor  country;  and  ftill 
greater  quantities  are  ibipped  at  the  foot  of  the  Urr  and  the 
Dee*  for  Liverpool,  Whitha^en,  and  the  manu&^hmng  towni 
in  Lanark  arid  Renfrcwflurc.  Hares  and  partridges  abound 
here,  and  they  are  even  increafing,  although  none  of  our  he- 
ritors are  fb  attached  to  the  game  laws  as  to  ihake  an  annual 
publication,  in  the  newfpapcrs,  of  their  determined  purpofc 
to  become  the  tfttrigers  of  Mood  on  the  iniquitotis  generation 
of  poachers*  ^ 

j200^..«About  a  rniie  of  the  great  military  road  (made  by 
government)  from  the  Engliih  border  to  Portpatrick,  pafTes 
throiigh  the  footh  end  of  this  pariOi.  Some  years  algo,  the 
ftatute  labour  was  converted  by  aA  of  parliament.  The  in- 
habitants of  this  diftrift  pay  at  prcfcnt  the  mammum^  which 
is  15  s.  Sterlirig  for  each  L.  100  Scots  valuation.  Several 
good  lines  of  road  have  been  fited  on,  and  (ome  of  them  arc 
about  half  made.  There  is  ftili  milch  room  for  improve- 
mcnt.  There  are  no  turnpikes  in  this,  or  in  the  neighbour^ 
ing  county  of  Wigton.  Turnpike  h)ads  would  be  very  ac. 
ceptable,  if  the  cctcmony  of  coUefting  moincy  at  the  toU-bari, 
could  be  difpenfed  with.  It  is  doubted  how  far  they  would 
be  expedient  on  any  other  terms.  If  they  Ihall  take  phce, 
manures  ought  to  be  exempted,  and  a  very  moderate  tax 
flioold  be  laid  on  cattle,  where  the  trade  in  them  is  carried 
on  to  io  great  an  extents 


fSa  Statytica!  AccoiM 

Jniiquiiief.'^Th'ext  are  in  this  parifh  ten  irregular  hfeaps  of 
fcofe  ftones>  which  antiquaries  called  Piffj/b  €airns.  Three 
df  thefe  have  been  opened  bj  perfons  ftili  alive ;  and  in  each 
of  them  fome  human  bones  have  been  found,  in  coffios 
confiderably  above  the  ordinary  iize.  There  are  ieveral 
moats,  as  in  other  parts  of  Scotland  \  remains  of  antient  and 
later  fortifications.  The  foundations  of  a  very  large  convent 
was  lately  difcovered,  about  which  record  and  tradition  are 
filent.  Farmers  in  ploughing,  and  labourers  in  digging,  have 
frequently  found  Roman  urns^  fwosds,  and  other  imple- 
ments. 

Language i  and  Etymology  of  Names  of  Places. — ^The  language 
%K>ken  here  is  neither  EngUfh  nor  Scottifli,  but  a  mixture 
of  both.  With  the  exception  of  a  few  provincial  words  and 
phrafes,  the  inhabitants  if>eak  with  more  propriety  than  thofe 
of  the  fame  ftation  in  moft  parts  of  Scotland.  The  names  of 
places  are  derived  from  the  Engliih,  the  Gaelic,  and  from 
combinations  of  both.  Many  of  them  are  defcriptive  of  the 
iituations  of  placc$j  or  of  their  dependence  on  the  church,  &c. 

Advantages  and  Difadvantages. — ^The  advantages  of  this 
place,  as  muft  appear  from  what  hath  been  faid,  are  very  con- 
iiderable.  The  chief  difadvantages  which  it  labours  under, 
are  the  icarcity  and  dearnefs  of  fuel,  and  the  length  and  bad- 
neis  of  the  roads  over  which  it  muft  be  brought.  The  plough 
has  almoft  totally  removed  the  whins,  and  other  bruQi-wood^ 
which  formerly  were  of  material  fervice  to  the  poor.  As  there 
are  few  mofles  in  the  parifh,  moft  of  the  peats  muft  be  brought 
from  the  diftance  of  4  or  5  miles  ^  and  even  there  the  proprie- 
tors will  fcarcely  difpofe  of  them  at  any  price.  Some  people 
bring  coals,  by  land  carriage,  40  miles  from  Damellington  in 
▲irihire.  This  country  might  be  furnifhed  with  Englifh  coals, 

were 


ff  Croftmicbaeh  }9s 

were  it  not  for  the  duty  prepofteroully  impofed  on  thofe  that 
are  water-borne,  and  exafled  by  the  revenue  officers  with 
great  rigour.  Sparc^Iy  any  grievance  calls  more  loudly 
for  redrefs.  If  a  duty  muft  be  had  from  coals,  it  would 
certainly  be  more  coniiftent  with  the  wifdom  of  parliament 
to  lay  it  on  at  the  pit,  than  to  coUeA  it  folely  from  thofe  whofe 
local  fituation  fubje£ls  them  to  the  additional  ezpcnces  of 
freight  aqd  infurance. 


NUM^ 


( 


/ 


1 81^  Siatifiieal  Accomi 

NUMBER     XXn* 
FARISn  OF  PARTON. 

B}  ihf  Rev.  Mr  W1LL14M  DoNALDSOir« 


Nami^  Situation  f  Exfeni^  S|«/»  i^  8utfaet. 

TH  E  name  of  this  parifli,  for  mow  than  300  foirs  paft, 
has  been  fpelt  Parton ;  and  Parton^  thopgh  prob6ibl| 
altered)  both  in  orthography  and  pronunciation,  from  the 
fSaelic,  whence  \t  is  d^ived,  is  faid  to  fignify  in  tliat  language 
the  hill  icfi^  which  is  perfefUy  defc^iptive  of  the  fituation. 
Moft  of  the  names  of  places  here  are  derived  from  the  Gaelic, 
and,  under  all  the  difguifes  of  writing  and  pronunciation,  are 
ftill  underftood  and  interpreted  b^  thofe  who  are  ikilled  in 
that  language.  This  pari(h  lies  in  the  ftewartry  and  prefbj- 
tery  of  Kirkcudl^right,  and  fynod  of  Galloway.  It  approach- 
es to  a  fquare  form,  5  mfles  on  each  fide.  It  is  bounded  on 
the  north  by  Balmaclellan ;  on  the  eaft  by  Kirkpatrick-Dur« 
ham,  from  which  it  is  ieparated  by  t)ie  fmall  river  Urr  ;  01^ 
the  ibuth-eaft  by  Crofsmichael }  on  the  Ibuth  by  Balmaghie, 
from  which  it  is  feparated  by  the  Dee ;  on  the  weft  and  fouth- 
wcft  by  Kells,  from  which  it  is  feparated  by  the  ^en,  a  river 
that  is  in  fome  places  near  a  mile  broad.  The  pari(h  b  from  1  • 
to  15  miles  from  the  neareft  fea-port  s  and  no  roads  arc  open- 
ed up  to  its  interior  parts.  The  arable  ground  is  of  a  light 
or  fandy  quality.    The  ground  is  very  unequaL    There  are 

no 


«   rf  Partm.  185" 

iA.oodfidcra)4e  moontalnsi  but  many  little  hills.  The  flats 
and  enaSpencies  are  generallj^  covered  with  heath,  except  in 
tbe  foQ^ei^n  border,  where  furze  and  broom  uied  to  pcevail 
before  the  improved  mode  of  cultivation. 

jfgriaifiun,, a^cl-^Thc  number  of  farms  is  between  40  and 
j-o.  £^  hath  a: plough.  The  old  Scottiih  plough  is  uied 
in  breaking  up  the  ground,  when  3,  and  often  4,  horfes 
a|%  nfed  ^htea&n  In  the  fubfequent  ploughings,  a  lighter 
plough^  with  2  horfes  and  i  man,  is  ufed.  It  is  fuppofed 
that  400  a^res  may  be  annually  employed  in  raifing  oats,  6 
or  8  in  barley,  and  ^o  in  potatoes.  Potatoes  make  a  princi- 
pal article  of  food  of  the  lower  clafles  of  the  people  ^  and,  * 
with  a  fmail  degree  of  attention,  the  old  crop  continues  good 
till  fucceeded  by  the  new.  On  the  fale  and  exportation  of 
flieep,  wool,  black  cattle  and  oats,  the  farmers  depend  for  the 
paying  of  their  rents.  Oats  are  fown  from  the  middle  to  the 
end  of  March,  and  reaped  from  the  end  of  Augull  to  the  end 
of  September.  Potatoes  are  planted  in  the  beginning  of  April, 
and  are  ready  at  Lammas.  Moft  part  of  the  farms  arc  inclo- 
fed  with  ftone  dykes.  The  advantages  of  fuch  mdoiures  are 
well  known.  The  land  rent  of  the  pariih  is  near  L,  2060. 
Land  fells  from  27  to  32  years  purchafc.  The  nature  of  the 
ground  in  different  farms  is  very  different.  One,  confiding 
of  45  acres,  lately  let  at  L.  48  //r  annum  ;  another,  of  more 
than  400  acres,  let  for  L.  40.  The  rent  of  farms  is  from 
L.  10  to  L.  \20  per  annum.  Akhough  the  rents  of  ibme 
hrms  have  been  even  doubled  trithin  thefe  laft  30  years,  yet 
the  condition  of  the  people  is  much  improved. 

Air  and  JDj^/mr/^r/.— The  air  is  falubrious,  and  there  are 
00  epidemic  diftempers,  if  we  except  rheumatic  complaints, 
which,  for  thefe  laft  40  years,  have  prevailed  among  all  ranks. 

Vol.  L  a  a  Alinerai 


1 86       *  Staft/Hcal  Accvuta 

Mineral  Sprwgs^  Lakety  afiJ  J^Vitrf.^Thttt  b  t 
fprlng,  which  is  iUppoled  to  poflefs.  In  fomt  degrct^  tlit  qua* 
lities  of  the  old  well  at  Mo&t.  It  Was  fermerly  mueti  fre- 
quented by  the  common  people,  bat  is  noi^  quite  negleQed. 
Ho  cures  have  been  properly  authenticated.  Perhaps  die 
water  was  u^ed  in  an  injudicious  manner.  Tbktt  are  fmn 
fmail  lakes  plentifully  ftored  with  trout.  The  rivar  De«  join^ 
the  Ken  about  half  a  mile  above*  the  kirfc^  from  whcnec  k 
has  the  name  Dee  till  it  enttrs  the  SclMray  Frith  at  Kirkcwt- 
bright.  In  a  flood,  the  Dec  fomethne^  rifes  8  feet  perpen* 
diciilarly,  by  which  large  tra^s  of  meadow  ground  are  over- 
flowed.  This,  in  fummer,  is  very  hurtful  to  tbe  hay;  but. 
In  winter  and  Tpring;  con&lerably  improves  the  crop.  Op» 
pofite  to  Parton,  the  river  is  from  loo  yards  to  half  a  mile 
broad,  and  from  to  t&  jq  feet  deep.  It  abounds  in  pike  and 
perch.  The  former  are  caught  from  3  to  40  lb: ;  the  latter 
from  1  to  4  or  5.  Formerly  the  moors  afforded  great  plen- 
ty of  bhck  and  red  game  \  harts  afid  partridges  are  lltU  in 
abundance ;  woodcocks  appear  in  the  end  of  Oftober. 

^tarrhs, — A  flate  quarry,  not  a  mile  from  tte  rivef,  wa? 
formerly  wrought,  but  by  unfkillful  management  has'  goo& 
into  difrepute.  In  the  opinion  of  judges,  it  might  ftill  be 
rendered  valuable,  confiderttig  th^  fpirit  of  improvement > 
efpccially  of  building,  which  feems  to  prevail  much  in  this 
part  of  the  country. 

Populathn  — I'hc  return  of  the  population  to  Dr  Webfter 

was  .---..  y^^ 

Inhabitants  in  the  year  1 790        -  -  .  ^09 

The  annual  average  of  marriages  from  1744  to  1782  4 

*■     ' births  -  -  -  11 

'  ■■  deaths         -  -  .  8 

In 


I0  f^iSf y-dv:  Qunber  of  fouls  alH>ve  fix  years  of  f)ge,  ex«. 
.  duGw;  ^ficccders  and  P2|pifts  -  •        ,   400 

(The-diauoutioa  fiace  th^  period  is  owing  to  great  farms) . 
jlol^hiud  houfes  -  -  *  -  ico 

laaulict  ^4  of  them  Catholics  and  4  Seceders)         «  80 

f  erfbns  ^  a  family,  s^  an  avera^e^  .  •  j^ 

Proprietors  of  land  (the  patron  and  tl^ee  others  refide  in 

the  pari/h)  •  -  -  -  12 

JMecbaoks -pf  aU  defarjpjtiojDs  •  -10 

Jlorfcs  •         -  -  -        •  -  -        110 

Cattle        .  .-.-•-         .  1000 

hhecp  -  ^  -  -  •  3000 

Coats,  pot  above  -  •  -       •    ,     -  ^>^ 

A  £ev  7e:trs  a^o,  a  ipan  died  ;^ve  90,  whoj  about  8 
months  before  his  deathj  ^ot  a  complete  fet  of  new  teeth, 
vbichbe^empbyed  till  near  hisjaft  breath  to  excellent  purpofe. 
He  ^^as  foor  times  married,  had  children  by  all  his  wives, 
and  at  the  baptifm  of  his  laA  child,  which  happen^  not  a 
year  before  his  death,  with  an  air  of  complacency  ex preiTcd 
his  thax^^&ilnefs  to  his  ^l^tr  for  haying  *<  at  laft  fent  him 
«  the  clidfiwe^  h  e.  21. 

'Chyrcb  and  Stipcrti.^^Thc  church,  Situated  t^lthin  aoo 
vards  of  the  river^  is  remarkable  for  little  elfe  than  its 
<larkiitl^  »nd  diiproporito*oti»  being  6;  feet  long,  and  14^ 
broad.  Ih^  palpit  is  of  fblid  oak^  curionily  carved,  and 
bearing  date  1598*  The  nunfe,  rebuilt. in  177.79  had  addi. 
%905  ai|d'4pepairs  in  1789,  and  is  now  large  apd  commodious. 
The  fttpepd  is  L.  83  :6:  8;.  the  manic  and  £}cbe  L.  id. 
\7illiain  Olcndonwync  of  ClcmdoawynC|  ^fqi  is  thf  pa- 
.iron. 


i88  Stallftieal  Aecom^ 

Pma— 'At  an  average  for  20  years  paft,  tlie  mnnUr  o( 
poor  who  have  received  ftated  or  occaiional  fnppiiei  are  & 
The  annual  colle£tionsg  and  tlie  intereft  of  lent  mooej, 
amount  to  L.  iq per  annum.  In  1 782 — 3^  though  the  mtA 
got  up  to  half-a-crown  the  ftone,  yet  the  poor  were  compe- 
tently fuppliedj  and  the  other  inhabitants  lived  much  in  their 
ufual  ftile. 

Price  ofLotour  and  Provtfiom^ — ^In  1 761,  the  yearly  wago 
cf  a  man  fervant  were  L.  2 :  iO|  of  a  maid  fervant  L«  i :  io» 
In  1 79O1  the  former  have  advanced  to  L;  8,  or  L.  8  ;  i^,  and 
the  latter  from  L.  3  to  L.  4  per  annum,  A  labourer's  wages  are 
8  d.  and  his  viduals ;  a  mafon's  or  carpenter's  1  s. ;  a  tayknr^ 
8  dk  There  is  no  ftated  market  here  for  provifions.  In  17611 
a  fat  flieep,  weighing  from  40  to  50  lbs.  fold  for  7s.  or  7s.  6d. ; 
a  dozen  of  eggs  for  i  d. ;  a  hen  for  4  d. ;  a  pound  of  batter 
for  6  d. ;  .a  ftone  of  cheefe  for  3  s. ;  and  a  ftone  of  oat  meal 
for  1  s.  Now^  all  thefe  articles^  except  the  laft^  are  near^ 
doubled,  *  • 

Fiiely  ^^.~Peat  is  the  general  fuel.  It  is  icarce  in  the 
fouthern  parts }  and  the  poorer  fort  of  people  ufe  broom  and 
furze.  It  is  plentiful  in  the  middle  and  eaftem  parts^  and  of 
the  beft  quality.  The  mofles  are  of  difficult  acceis,  as  no  pro- 
per  roads  are  opened.  The  inhabitants  are  obliged  to  carrj 
home  ^heir  peat  on  horfe-back  incomfacks,  as  carts  can- 
not U  uied.  Thefe  zrt  no  turnpike  roads  in  this  part  of 
Galloway.  The  principal  road  here,  which  goes  alotig  the 
river,  will  be  made  good  by  a  commutation  of  the  fbtnte  la^ 
bourj  at  the  rate  of  15  s.  the  L,  100  valued  rent^  widch  an- 
nually  produces  L.'  ax  Sterlmg, 

jlntiquities. — ^Near  the  church  there  is  an  artificial  mount, 


4^9  7v4s  ctrqimGnrence  at  the  bafe,  which  Is  circuhr.  It  is 
faxTounded  with  a  ditch  from  6  to  9  feet  deep,  whence  the 
earth  which  compofes  the  mount  appears  to  have  been  taken. 
About  half  a  mife  north  there  is  another  tnount,  nearly  double 
the  dimenfions  of  the  former,  inclofed  with  two  ditches.  On 
a  gentl^^min^n(9,:«t;2x^.jai^^s  d^ftance,'  b  fee^a  theremains 
of  a  fmall  Druidical  circle.  About  3  miles  north  from  the 
church  there  is  a  remarkable  heag  of  ftones,  from  which  the 
fem  where  it  Itei  fccms  to  ibave  been  named /ir  Caf>«.  The 
circular  bafe  b  120  yards  in  circumference.  A  iimilar  cairn, 
but  on  a  fmaller  icale,  dbm^i  n^^^l&iiUUnce,  was  opened  s» 
jean  ago,  and  in,  or  toward  the  centre,  was  found  a  kind  of 
^one  coflin,  f09taiiuDg.j(bjmething  like  frago^nts  of  humaa 

•  ...  I  •  .    •  •  •    r      • 

•  •  :  b         :  'l    .    .  .  .  •  .  NUM. 


'i  »■   .  .1. ..;  ..^im  • 

.•-■•■.'•       ■    •  ■  ,  1-.  ■•.:'.■.       . 

'    .    .     .       ■.      ■    ;      .•       ...  ■.    .     ..^   .•:•• 

PARISH  OP  GO^V^WOTON. 


'   •      '  •  Name,  Hiuatkn^  Baaft^^Soil,  bfd.  '"      - 

THIS  parifli  derives  its  name  from  Convent  Toum*.  it 
is  in  the  county  of  Lanark,  prefbytery  of  Biggar,  and 
fynod  of  Lothian  and  Tweeddale.  Its  length  from  fouth  to 
MBth  is  3  milef>  and  its  breadth  2.  It  is  bounded  on  ths 
eaft  by  Libberton ;  on  the  weft  by  parmichael ;  on  the  foatli 
by  Symington  and  Wifton ;  and  on  the  north  by  Pittenain. 
There  is  fome  barren  heath;  but  the  foil  is  in  general  fertile. 
The  haughs  of  Clyde  are  moftly  6f  a  good  quality,  but  they 
are  fubjefk  to  inundation  \  which,  though  pernicious  at  certain 
feafons,  at  others  enriches  the  ground,  and  fupplies  the  place 
of  manure.  Part  of  the  country  is  mountainpus.  Tinto  is 
1  ^^9  feet  above  the  level  of  the  Clyde. 

Agriculture^  IsFc. — ^Every  f^^mer  keeps  two  ploughs  at  lead; 
one  of  them  is  the  old  Scottifh,  and  the  other  Small's.  There 
are  about  630  acres  in  tillage  yearly :  About  90  in  i>arley,  6« 
an  peafe,  70  in  potatoes  and  turnip,  10  in  lint,  and  the  remain* 
der  in  oats.  There  are  about  60  acres  of  fown  grafs.  Oats  are 
fown  in  March,  and  barley  in  the  beginning  of  May*  The 
beft  croft  land  is  let  at  L.  i :  i :  0  per  acre;  the  beft  pafture 

at 


|ti2  8. ;  tbe  worft^t  2  s.  4d.  Th^  average  reol  of  fi^rPM  ii 
In  50.  -The  TtqX  of  the  parifli  ^  L.  920  per  amfuin^  U  i%> 
doTurcs  arcfuiTOttiuled  wi(h  wood|  t|]ie  farmery  arp  convimt 
cod  of  their,  great  atility.  Jiarvcft»  in  g^neral^  comqMAOfp 
about  the  beginning  of  September.  The  pariih  ufually  ex- 
ports one-ibttrtk  of  Ibe  fcodiKe.  la  17829  thrfeJourth3  off 
the  crop  were  deftroycd  by  tUl  £coft.  in  1 783^  the  cxo^p  wa^ 
remarkably  goodt  leed  being  procured  at  a  diftaoce^  and  this 
ieafon  beiog  favourable.  The  heritors  gave  a  gen^oi}^  aiG(- 
taace  to  their  tenants^  Heace^  the  bad  effoAs  of  the  ieafoq 
1782  were  not  fo  fevefely  fcl|  as  was  at  firft  dreaded^  Ihief 
#ai  laeai  fold  at  L,  2  :6 : o  per  load  of  16  fion^.  The  £i«- 
mers  who  were  io  fortunate  as  to  have  any  of  the  for* 
mer  crop»  got  an  additional  price  for  it :  But  this,  fell  heavy 
•on  the  poor  labourer;  efpecialiy  as  be  was  often  obli^dto  re* 
main  idle,  the  tenants  being  iiaabk  to  employ  him.  , 

PopubUkn.'^Tdtj  years  ago,  the  inhabitants  were  6oo.  TbeH 
principal  caufe  of  the  depopulation  fince  that  time  has  beea 
the  eniargiog  of  the  &irms.  The  return  to  Dr  Webfter.was 
521.    In  17791  the  number  of  inhabtianu  was  484. 

Malct             -             ""           *           *           T  ^^3 

Femalee           -           .           -           .           -  a6i 

Annual  average  of  births           •             •           .  xo 

■  ■■     ■  r,  ■■  marriages          «            -            «  4 

Heritors  (only  i  refides)          .-           ...  3 

Farmers              -            -            -            -            -  ai 

Houfehold  iervants,  about       <     «           -           *  45 

TradeTmen            -        -           -         .  ,        -        .  17 

Scccdcrs         -            -            -            ....  16 

Poor -  9 

Yearly  collection  for  their  &ppDrt  about  Xi.  i6. 

Labouring 


jLiDonniig  norlcf    *  *     •  *  •           »  '    »           '  yy 

Toufig  horfb         •    *       1  <      .  •  '•           «        ^^ 

Iffilk  cowis  and  Uack  cattle  ...  *•            505 

Bleep       '  •        -           •  •           •  •           1000 


'  Prici  rf  LMur  a  fid  PrwifiMs.^-^A  cbmlnoii  laiMarer's ' 
^jps  ve  I  s.  per  day.  With  the  afEAaoceof  hit  wiie,  he  b 
able  to  feppott  hii  famify.  Tbe  women  co^kribute  mock  bjr 
Tpbdmng :  An  ordinary  hand  will  earn  4  d.  per  dayC  Btea 
Servants  get  L.  6 ;  women  L.  3  : 5  :  o  ^r  mmum  s  carpenters 
'get  X  s.  ($  d.  and  taylors  i  si  t  d.  per  day.  Fifty  years  ago, 
lens  were  4d.  butter  3^d.  per  lb.  and  cheefe  ad*  Now^  hens 
are  i  s.  butter  7^  d.  and  cheefe  3  d. 

CSmnb  and  S/ig^m/.— One  half  of  the  church  is  an  old  o^ 
thedral.  The  other  half  was  added  more  than  a  century  ago. 
The  value  of  the  ftipend  is  L.  80.  Mr  Lockhart  of  Card- 
Wath  tt  patrott. 

^«ifJ7»itf//«— Within  the  bounds  of  this  pariih  there  are 
ibur  camps,  all  of  a  circular  form,  fuirouoded  with  one  or 
two  deep  ditches.  One  named  the  Caftledykes  has  two  fub- 
temnean  pafTagcs,  leading  from  the  eaft  gate.  There  air  twb 
birge  cairns  of  fiones^  one  (landing  on  a  hill  called  Wallbra^, 
meafining  in  circumference  107  yards.  There  are  many 
fmaller  bnes  in  an  adjoining  mooir.  Several  have  been  open- 
ed, which  cotitain  a  coarfe  coffin,  compofod  lof  fiat  fione^ 
The  other  large  cairn  ftands  on  the  top  of  Tinto,  which  fig. 
Aifies  a  hi/J  efjlrtf  and  is  faid  to  have  t|ken  its  name  from 
the  Druids  keeping  a  contitaocd  fire  on  the  top  of  thb  cairn. 
On  a  round  hill  at  the  foot  of  Tinto  there  is  a  circle,  fur- 
^rounded  with  large  ftones,  ereAed  on  one  end,  clofe  to  one 
another.    At  the  diftance  of  xo  yards,  there  is  another  wall, 

nearly 


if  Covington*  193 

nearly  refembling  the  former.  In  this  place  a  large  mound 
of  earth  is  ereAed.  This  was  probably  a  (hcriflPs-court,  where, 
on  a  certain  day,  the  adjacent  country  attended  to  have  ju& 
tice  done.  The  name  of  the^c^cent  farm  feems  to  favour 
this  tradition,  for  it  is  called  Sheriff- flats.  According  to  im- 
memorial tn^itJon,  a  bullock's  (^m  full  of  gold  lies  buried  in 
this  place. '  Covington  was  formerly  the  feat  of  a  knight  ba- 
ronet named  Lindfey:  In  1420,  the  laird  applied,  and  ob^ 
tained  leave  frei^  parliament  to  boild  a  fort,  which  was  finith- 
ed  in  1442.  The  walls  are  10  feet  thick.  It  was  made 
firong  by  every  circumftance  that  art  could  invent.  An  old 
Avord  of  very  large  fize,  called  Wallace's,  is  ftill  prcferved. 
The  ruin  contbues  a  grand  and  majeftlc  objcdl. 

Mr/ceffaneous  Obfervationi — ^The  fuel  ufed  here  is  coal.  Tlie 

di  (lance  from  the  coal  hill  Is  about  9  miles  2   The  price  there 

15  3  d   per  cwt.     When  laid  down  here,  the  price  is  nearly 

doubled.     There  is  one  village  called  Thank cirton,  beauti* 

fully  fituated  on  the  river  Clyde.     There  is  a  bridge  over  the 

Clyde  at  this  village,  built  in  1778  by  public  contribution.   It 

is  kept   in  repair  by  the  county.     The  roads  are  made  and 

repaired   by  the  ftatute  labour  commuted.    The  people,  in 

general,  f  uppofe  that  turnpike  roads  would  be  of  advantage* 

Some  farmers  in  this  pariOi  purfue  improvements  with  fpirit ; 

but  the  climate  ftruggles  againft  theiti.     Plantations  of  wood 

in  this  part  of  the  country  would  be  of  great  advantage.  The 

inhabitants,  in  general,  are  very  humane,  induftrious,  decent, 

and  devout.    None  have  enlilled  in  the  army  fince  1778. 


Vol.  I.  B  b  NUM. 


194  Statl/lical  Account 

NUMBER     XXIV. 

PARISH  OF  TROQUIRIL 

By  thi  Rtu.  Mr  JoHK  EwART. 


Situation^  Extent^  &i/i  and  Surface. 

THIS  parifh  is  in  the  ftewartrf  of  Kirkcudbright,  aod  in 
the  prcfbytery  and  lynod  of  Dumfries*  It  is  bounded 
by  the  river  Nith  on  the  eaftj  by  the  panfh  of  New  Abbey 
on  the  ibuth  \  by  Lochrutton  on  the  welt ;  and  Terregles  on 
the  north.  It  is  about  7  J  miles  long,  and  about  4}  broad. 
The  ioW  is  various,  but  generally  light.  Mois  and  moor  form, 
perhaps,  the  fourth  part  of  the  pariOi  The  country  is  partly 
flat,  and  partly  hilly.  Part  of  the  hills  is  covered  with  heath 
or  coarfe  graft.    There  arc  tew  rocks. 

Rivers. — The  river  Nith  produces  falmon  and  fca  trout, 
which  yield  in  the  fpring  6  d.  per  En^liih  lb.;  3d.  and  a^d. 
per  lb.  in  fummer  and  harvcO.  In  the  two  laft  feafbns  they 
arc  in  greateil  perfe^lion.  Nith  is  navigable  with  large  vef- 
iels  at  the  foot  of  the  parifhj  and  in  the  middle  with  fmall 
lime  and  coal  ones  from  England.  Sea  mud  comes  xm  thii 
riveri  and  is  ufed  for  manure  with  much  fuccefs* 

Rental^  Agriculture^  toV.— The  prefent  rental  of  Troquirc, 
VIZ.  of  Iand|  is  •  •  -  •         L.  4759 

The 


%f  Troqutre*  195 

The  rental  10  1752,  afccrtaincd  before  the  Court  of  Scflion, 
tf  .  -  '  .  .     ,       .  L.  950 

Hence,  the  prefent  rental  is  five  times  the  rental  in  r  752.  This 
▼aft  rife  of  laii<l  in  i  roquire  is  m  a  great  mcafure  owing  to 
the  people  having  abandoned  a  wretched  mode  of  hufban* 
dry^  in  which  ^hey  laid  all  tneir  dung  up  n  :,  4,  or  5  acres, 
of  a  fidd  adjoini.>g  to  the  houie,  wh  ch  they  called  crofting 
kmd^  upon  which  they  yearly  fowed  bear  or  barley,  that 
yielded  the  farmers  only  four  or  five  ior  one,  owing  to  if  bc- 
mg  choaked  with  weeds.  The  re(\  of  the  farm  had  no  other 
maoure  but  what  dropped  from  the  cattle  m  the  field ;  con* 
fequentiy,  their  outfield  crop,  beiug  oats,  was  very  poor,  and 
could  karceijy  pay  the  labour. 

Laying  lime  upcA  the  land,  which  began  near  40  years  ago, 
chiefly  contributed  to  the  improvement  o^the  land  and  the 
rife  of  rent.  Some  little  ibcU  marie  and  Tea  uiud,  which  were 
only  got  on  fo  le  fanns,  were  Ukewife  ufed.  rhe^e  means  of 
improvement  introduced  a  fenilble  mode  of.  hufbandry,  and 
will  account  for  the  great  rife  of  land  in  Troquire,  together 
with  the  increafed  price  of  cattle  and  grain. 

Ploughs  in  Troquire  -  »  -  "58 

Suppoiiog  every  plough  to  work  25  acres  in  wheat,  harley, 

oats,  peafe,  potatoes,  turiiips,  and  fadow,  there  will  be  un* 

der  tillage  ycatly  ...  1450  acres 

Arabic  land  not  m  tillage  •  •  3^2c 

Total  arable  land  ta  the  parifh        507c 
In  woods  and  plautations,  at  ieall  -  -        j  jo 

There  are  4  oat  mills,  i  wheat,  x  waulk,  i  barley  mill,  in 
4»e  pariibs  9  breweries^  ai^d  9  malthpufes. 

The. 


1 96  StafiJiicaJ  Aceouni 

The  rotation  of  crops  in  the  grcateft  part  of  the  parift 
IS  ufualiy  as  follows :  In  the  ift  year  of  breaking  up  Und 
oats  are  Town ;  ad  year  fallow  or  potatoes ;  the  land  b  ma- 
nured \  3d  year  w}ieat ;  4th  year  barley,  or  fooietimes  oats, 
^ith  rye  grafs  and  red  clover;  5th  year  rye  grafs  and  clover; 
6th  year,  the  preceding  rotation  is  recommenced.  Oats  are 
the  prevailing  grain.  The  beft  arable  land  in  the  parifli  near 
Pumfries  is  rented  at  L.  i  ;  10 :  o  per  acre  :  There  are  few  at 
L.  2.  Arable  land .  fown  with  graft  feeds  yields,  the  firft 
year,  about  L.  a  :  10  ;  o,  when  the  produce  b  fold  for  hay; 
the  fecond  year  about  L.  2.  The  rent  of  arable  land,  in  ge- 
neral, is  from  25  to  18  (hillings  per  acre;  Ihe  farms  are  ge- 
nerally inc^ofedi  and  the  ttnants  find  much  advantage  from 
inclofures.  Wbcat  is  ufually  fown  about  the  beginning  of 
OfVober;  oats  in  March  and  April;  blrley  in  April  and  May. 
"Wheat  and  barley  are  ufually  reaped  in  the  beginning  of  Sep- 
tember, and  pats  about  the  middle ;  in  dry  iummers  foooer. 
Two  things  are  dill  wanting  to  make  the  agriculture  moie 
perfect ;  afliduity  to  increafe  manure  by  compofts,  ftraw  yards, 
&c  ;  and  attention  to  keep  the  horfes  always  employed,  which 
might  be  done  if  fallowing  were  increaied.  What  is  called 
thr  fervitude  $f  tenants^  and  bailie  work,  to  the  proprietors  of 
land,  is  now  almoft  entirely  aboliflied  in  thU  partfli.  It  was 
a  cruel  mode  of  oppreifion. 

Price  of  Labour^  £5V.— iThe  ufual  days  wages  to  men  is  i  s. 
without  victuals ;  to  women,  for  working  at  hay  and  weed- 
ing, 6d.  Carpenters,  bricklayers,  and  niafons,  get  about 
IS*  S  d.  The  wages  of  a  man  fervant  yearly  is  firom  L.  6 :6 
to  L.  8,  befides  mamtenance.  A  maid  iervant  gets  from  L*  3 
to  L.  3  :  10  :  o.  1  he  price  of  providons  is  about  the  double 
of  what  tl^ey  were  47  years  ago.  They  are  now  abont  the 
]^dmt)urgh  prices^  except  poultry.    Many  famiUes  are  chiefly 

fapported 


Ibpported  b7  potatoes.  Thqr  furnifh  the  £sirtners  with  (eed 
and  dang,  who,  from  this  confideration,  ailow  them  to  get 
the  crop,  which  they  take  tip  at  their  own  expence.  This 
pradice  deierves  to  be  adopted  in  the  neighbourhood  of  towns 
and  viUagesi  where  there  is  much  dung. 

Pij^&l&ii.— The  inhabitants  of  Bridgend,  of  all  ages,  are 

I30Z 
The  inhabitants  of  other  parts  of  the  pari(h  are  1 298 

Total  inhabitants  of  all  ages  and  denominations    a6o« 

Mechanics  in  the  village  of  Bridgend : 

Shoemakers;  matters,  journejmen,  and  apprentices  84 

Smiths             •             m  •  -              •            •            4 

Coopers             -           •  -            .            -             3 

Clogmakers           -.           «  •           -            •          6 

Bakers            -            •  -            •         .        •            3 

Taylors         -         •           •  -            •           •        26 

Weavers       '        -             •  •                •                20 

Wrights  and  carpenters  -            .           •            11 

Mafons            -            -  -               -            .            ^ 

Sawers  of  wood            -  -          -         -          •            4 

Bricklayers                -  -              •              -              S 

Maltfters,  befides  fervants  -             •             •            2 

Ropeoiakers           -  -               •            •             3 

Butchers             •               -  -               •               8 

Barber               -               -  •                -                1 

Brewers,  befides  fervants  ...             2 

bleacher           ?           •  -           -            -             » 

Total      186 

|Aechani«s 


if8 

Me 

duuucs  in  other  parts  of  the  parlllu 

Smiths 

J              •              -              - 

Wcavoi 

- 

13 

Shoemakov 

. 

Taylors 

m                              m                              m                              m 

Wrights 

#                               •                               •                               • 

Total 

37 

Mechaoio  ia  Bridgend 

i8( 

Total  mechanics  in  Troquire  223 

Of  the  above  number  of  inhaUtaots  there  are  200  Papifts, 
including  the  children  of  Papifts.  About  a  fourth  part  of 
that  number  is  an  influx  of  Irifli  Papifts,  who  withm  thefe 
few  years  have  fettled  in  Troquire.  A  Popilh  prieft  officiates 
among  them ;  and  he  has  met  with  no  difturbance  for  Chefe  50 
or  60  years  paft* 

There  are  fome  Seceders,  Relief  people^  and  M<MiUanices» 
who  have  places  of  worfibip  In  Dumfries, 

Church  and  S/f]^iii/.— The  church  feems  to  have  been  a 
chapel  oF  eafe*  The  ftipend  is  L.  8 1  :  2  : 6.  The  glebe  con* 
fi(h  of  about  1 1  acres,  which  might  let  finom  30  to  40  (hil* 
lings  the  acre.  The  manie  was  built  in  1707,  and  has  got 
feveral  repairs. 

Scboots.-^Thtrt  are  three  fchools  in  Troquire.  The  fala- 
ry  of  the  parifh  fchool  is  L.  10  yearly.  The  falary  of  the 
fchool  ereded  by  the  Society  for  Propagating  Chriftian  Know- 
ledge L.  10.  The  falary  of  a  fchool  in  Bridgend  L.  2  :  10  :o* 
Beiides  thefe  three »  there  are  three  other  fchools  for  ground- 
ing 


lug  young  children  in  the  Bridgend :  One  of  them  has  lo  i* 
yearly  from  the  feflion ;  the  other  two  teach  for  fchool  wa« 
ges.     All  the  teachers  in  ichools  get  fchool  wages. 

Mifceilaneous  Ot/ervaihns, -^The  air  is  pretty  healthful. 
Some  ihell  marie  is  found  in  the  parifh*  Ihe  fiihmg  is  let 
for  L*  75.  Fuel  is  expeniive.  Coal  is  fold  at  7  d.  and  8  d. 
per  cwt.  Four  hundred  acres  were  lately  planted ,  moftly 
with  fir  and  Odk.  i  here  are  a  confiderable  riumber  of  na- 
turai  woods.  1  here  are  6  tour  wheeled  chaifes^  and  about 
50  carts*  The  roads  are  greatly  improved.  The  military 
road  that  goes  from  Dumfries  to  Portpatrick  runs  through 
Troquire.  The  high  price  of  grain  was  much  felt  by  the 
poor  in  the  years  1782  and  1783.  Several  heritors  contri-r 
bated  fome  money,  when  mobs  were  threatened,  to  buy  oat^ 
whicfay  being  converted  into  meal,  were  fold  below  the  mar-^; 
ket  price.  Ihe  village  of  Bridgend  contains  many  beggars. 
In  it,  and  other  parts  of  the  parilh,  above  40  get  alms,  fomo: 
bybeggmgi  others  from  the  colle£tbns  and  parifli  funds^ 
which  amount  to  about  L.  34  yearly.  One  female  has  been 
executed  for  child  murder.  Two  perfons  have  been  baniih- 
cd.  Only  one  has  been  guilty  of  fuicide  in  the  courfe  of  47- 
years.  A  few  young  men  go  to  fea :  Several  enlift  in  the 
army*    The  mode  of  living  and  drefi  is  much  improved. 


NUM. 


3QO  Stati/iUaIJcc9unt 

NUMBER     XXV. 

PARISH  OF  MUIRAVONSIDE^ 

£y  tie  Rru.  Mr  John  BertHaii. 


Namff  Situation,  Extent,  Sci/,  &V. 

THIS  p^ifh  takfs  its  name  from  the  river  Avon,  whicb 
divides  the  co  nties  of  Linlithgow  and  Stirling.  It  is 
fltuated  in  the  latter,  although  it  belongs  to  the  prcibytery  of 
Linlithgow,  and  fynod  of  Lothian.  It  b  bounded  by  the 
parifhes  of  Borrow ftounnefs,  Linlithgow,  Torphichen^  PoU 
nont  and  Slamanan.  It  is  about  6  miles  long,  and  2  broad* 
The  cad  end  is  of  a  light  gravelly  foil ;  the  rell  clay,  with  a 
mixture  of  mofs  and  moor  A  coniiderable  part  of  the  pa- 
riOi  has  been  incloied  within  thefe  few  years.  The  farms  are 
very  fmall :  The  rents  commonly  arc  high :  The  harveft  ear- 
ly. •  There  are  50  ploughs  in  the  parifli  %  and  no  farmer  has 
more  than  one.  As  the  farms  are  imall,  grafs  parks  are  com- 
monly taken  from  year  to  year  for  feeding  cattle.  More  corn 
is  raited  than  is  nercflary  to  fupply  the  parifli.  Twenty 
acres  of  hnt  were  fown  laft  year.  The  rental  of  the  parUh 
may  be  about  L.  2000. 

Population — The  return  of  the  population  to  Dr  Webftct 
is  faiil  to  h  ;vc  b.xn  i4'»y;  but  there  icems  to  have  been  a 
fnilUkc  here,  as  one  wuo  knows  it  well  ailerts^  that  there  has 

been 


of  Muiravon/ide.  201 

!l)€sn  no  mateml  alteration  fince  the  year  ]  745.  At  prefent, 
'the  number  ofTouls  amounts  only  to  1065.  Of  thefe,  there 
are  302  under  ^o  years  of  age.  The  oldeft  man  in  the  parifli 
is  90.  The  barony  of  .Almond  has  been  all-laid  out  ingrais, 
and  the  farm  houfes  have  become  ruinous.  TJiis  may  be  af- 
.figned  as  one  cauie,  and  it  fcems  to  be  the  principal  one,  of 
the  decreaie  of  the  population ;  but  that  eftate  being  now  all 
inclofed,  confiderable  plantations  made,  and  to  be  let  out  in 
commodious  farmsi  will  add  greatly  to  the  beauty  and  popu- 
lation of  the  place.  The  annual  average  of  births  is  45 ; 
deaths  35  \  but  the  Seceders^  in  general,  do  not  infert  their 
names  in  the  parifh  regifter.  The  number  of  this  feA  here 
is  6^.  There  are  37  heritors.  The  grcatcft  part  of  theih 
Tefide  in  the  parifh*  There  are  no  vagrant  poor  belong- 
ing to  the  parifli.  There  are  ao  penfioners  on  the  pooi:s 
roU. 

Cburdi  and  Stipend.^Tht  church  is  old.  The  .ftipend  is 
1*.  83  : 6  :  8,  at  the  old  converfion  of  L.  8  : 6  :  81  the  chalder 
,of  viAual.  The  glebe  confifts  of  4  acres.  The  crown  is  pa- 
.tron. 

Antiquities. ^-^htrt  ftill  repiain  fome  ruins  of  an  old  ab- 
rbey,  called  Manual,  on  the  fide  of  the  Avon,  about  half  a 
mile  above  Linlithgow  bridge.  It  was  built  in  the  12th  cen- 
tury. There  is  an  old  caftle  called  Almond  hard  by  the 
church,  which  belqags  to.the  Callander  eftate,  but  is  not  in« 
•habited. 

Mifcellaneous  Obfervations, ^—^htrt  are  feveral  coal  mines, 
and  a  great  quantity  pf  iron-ftone  in  the  parifli.  The  fu(;l 
js  coal  and  peat  j  but  the  former  is  chiefly  ufcd.  There  arc 
jj  7  mills  in  this  parifli  on  the  river  Avon.     There  is  i  flour 

Vol.  I.  Cc  ani 


dot  SUrtiJlicql  Accmfia 

aod  I  barley  mill ;  4  com  and  4  lint  mills ;  %  ioqff  9|id  % 
fulling  mills ;  x  bark,  i  bleeching,  and  x  flint  milL  .Tbc 
wages  of  men  fervants,  living  in  the  houfe,  arc  cpmmoal]^ 
I4, 6  a  jear.  and  of  women  fervants  L.  3.  Labourers  ^et  lod. 
and  X  s.  per  day. 


*iu^;- 


NUMBER     XXVI. 

t*ARISH   OF  PENPONT. 

Bj  tht  Rev.  Mr  WlLLiiM  KetDbn; 


NMe^  SituatM^  Extent,  Soil,  and  Surface* 

TltEbame  of  this  parlfh  is  probably  derived  from pendefit 
foni,  an  arched  bridgci  there  being  a  bridge  of  one  fe* 
tnicircular  archj  fupportcd  bj  t\^o  fteep  rocks,  o^er  thfe  rivirf 
Scarh  It  is  of  very  remote  antiquity  \  nor  Is  it  known  i^hen  it 
was  built.  The  fingularity  of  the  ilru£ture,  ifrhcn  nbtWhg 
of  that  kiiid  eXifted  here,  niighrgive  bccafion  to  the  name* 
At  any  rate,  the  name  of  the  parifh  is  terjr  antienti  as  ap« 
jpears  from  Infcriptions  on  the  communion  cups,  in  the  be« 
ginning  of  the  14th  century;  PenpoUt  is  a  preibjrtery  festt^ 
and  is  fituated  in  the  fynod  sknd  county  cff  Dumfries;  It  is 
bounded  by  nine  parifhes,  Glencairn,  Tynron,  Keir,  Clbfe- 
bunij  Morton,  Ottrrifdeer^  Sanqiihar,  New  Cumnock,  and 
Dairy.  Nevr  Cumnock  is  in  the  prefbytery  of  Air,  Dairy  in 
that  of  Kirkcudbright:  The  parifh  is  16  Scottilh  ftatute  miles 
long,  and,  at  an  average,  about  3  J  broad;  It  extends  from 
ibuth*eaft,  at  the  lower  extremity,  by  a  continual  afcent j  to 
the  north-ureft,  where  the  ground  dh  the  banks  of  the  Scarr^ 
which  has  its  fource  there,  is  3500  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
river  at  the  lowed  part  of  it.  In  this  traft  there  arc  4  fteep 
ridges,  lengthways,  with  3  deep  and  narrow  glens,  each  wa« 

tcred  by  a  vety  pure  a^d  plentiful  ftream. 

Tht 


dtrs^  Stutl/iicat  Aicounf 

The  lower  end  is  wa(hed  by  the  Nithi  a  confidenble  rmri* 
Hirhich  divides  Penpont  from  Durrifdeer  aad  Morton,  and  hj- 
the  Scarr,  which  is  the  march  between  it  and  Tynron  and 
Keir.     On  the  fouth-weft,  the  Scarr  runs  between  Penpont 
and  Tynron  for  5  miles.    The  hills  on  both  fides  are  fo  deep 
and  high,  atnd  th^  bottom  fo  narrow,  rocky,  and  woody,  that 
the  general  view  is  pleafant  to  thofe  who  have  any  tafte  for 
romantic  fcenes.     At  Chanlockfoot,  the  ridge,  which  fprings 
np  fuddenly  between  two  valleys,  has  its  face  wholly  covered 
with  trees,  and  the  other,  farther  up,  with  grafs  of  a  beauti- 
ful green,  both  of  which  views  are  particularly  delightful.  In 
the  bofom  of  the  north*eaft  ridge  you  difcover  Glenquhargen 
Craig,  almoft  perpendicular,  and  above  1000  feet  in  hdghtli. 
It  has  two  faces  that  ftrike  the  eye,  and  no  other  rock  is  to  be 
feen  on  either  fide.   It  is  a  hard  browniih  whin  (lone.  Some 
fmall  pieces  are  fallen  down,  with  (harp  edges  and  angular 
points.  It  is  one  of  the  greateft  curiofities  in  the  fouth  of  Scot- 
land. The  north-eaft  fide  i&  bounded  by  the  Mar-buro,.  which, 
lower  down,  is  called  the  Canal.    The  general  profpeft  down 
the  rivers  Nith  and  Scarr  is  extenfive  and  beautiful,  confid- 
ing of  level  ground  highly  cultivated,  gentle  riCngs,  woods, 
villas,  and  mountains.     The  manfe  and  church  (land  on  a 
plain,  about  30  feet  above  the  Scarr,  which  winds  about,  in 
the  form  of  an  S,  firom  fouth  weft  to  north*eaft.    lliere  is 
from  hence  a  diftin£l  view  of  the  rivers  for  8  miles,  firft  (e- 
parate  and  then  united.  The  pools  here  and  there  fhew  them* 
felves  as  fmooth  fiieets  of  water ;  and  in  floods  the  low  ground 
h  inundated  for  a  mile  broad,  and  6  farm  towns  furroundcd  to 
the  very  doors.   Profpefts  worthy  of  notice  every  where  gr^ 
fcnt  themfelves.    At  the  old  bridge,  ah-eady  mentioned,    the 
banks  of  the  Scarr  are  high,  and  fkirted  with  wood  5  the  chan- 
nel rocky,  and  full  of  large  ftoncs ;  the  bridge  itfelf  venerable, 
by  a  complete  mantle  of  ivy  and  woodbine.  Very  ticar  it,  the 

water 


if  Petipmh  stTj . 

Water  fitts  over  a  ragged  rock,  lo  feet  high,  that  reaches  fro» 
fide  to  fide :  A  little  farther  down^the  Shinnel^  between  higk 
and  woody  banks,  runs  into  the  Scarr  at  right  angles.  At 
this  fpot  is  a  large  cairn,  and  the  upper  end  of  a  fine  fiieet  of 
water  *,  3  mills,  and  the  houfes  belonging  to  them,  in  a  cluf- 
ter ;  the  dam-dyke,  1 8  feet  above  the  rock,  clofe  to,  and  bo- 
low  which,  is  a  tremendous  mafs  of  unequal  vock«,  100  feet 
long,  among  which,  as. the  fall  is  cpnfiderable,  the  water, 
efpecially  aftec  rain,  <^  rages,  foams,  and.  thunders  down  j'^  be«- 
yond,  a  large  wood^  and  green  bills  rifiog  fuddenly,  and  ia 
various  fhapes. 

Cairnkinnow  is  a  high  mountain  Handing  iti  the  middle 
of  the  pari(h,  and  towards  the  north-eaft  fide  \  the  precil« 
heighth  unknown  \  biit  it  is  the  higheil  land  in  this  line  be^ 
tween  the  Friths  of  Solway  and  Clyde.  From  the  top  of  it 
may  be  feen  Airihire,  Clydefiiale,  Annandale,  and  Galloway  \ 
and  Cun^berlaad  and  ^YeftmQreIand  in  England^ 

The  foil  is  in  general  fand)^  in  fome  places  ligl^,  but  moft- 
ly  deep,  and  capable  of  great  improvement  by  lime,  which,  la 
15  years,  has  made  an  uncommon  alteration  on  the  face  of 
this  part  of  the  country.  The  hills  are  green>.  except  a  few 
that  are  covered  iNclth  a  (hort  heath. 

jtgriculture^  (S'r.— The  Scotjtifb  plough  is  chiefly  ufed,  on 
account  of  the  fmall  ftones  fo  frequent  in  a  fandy  foiU  Sow* 
ing  commonly  begins  on  the  ift  of  March,  and  reaping  about 
the  middle  of  Auguft.  All  the  common  kinds  of  grain,  and 
turnip,  potatoes,  clover,  and  rye-grafs,  are  raifed  with  fuccefiw 
\  About  138  acres  are  fown  with  barley  annually,  and  35  with 
^heat.  In  this  neighbourhood  land  lets  from  i  S  s.  to  1 1.  5  s. 
yacre*    The  real  rent  of  the  parlh  is  L.  21500^  which,  in 

the 


tto6  S/atifikat  Juduni 

the  laft  15  yeafSi  has  been  increafed  L.  900.  There  arc 
many  inclofures ',  and  the  difpofition  to  intlofe  leems  to  iil- 
treafe. 

Rheri,  isfe. — ^Near  the  Scarr,  which  rifes  at  the  head  of 
^enponti  are  likewiie  the  foarces  of  the  Ken^  whole  cotafe 
extends  to  Kirkcudbright ;  of  Afton,  which  faUs  into  the 
J^f ith  nciv  Nbw  Cumnock ;  and  of  the  Youghan^  which  joins 
the  Nith  at  Sanquhar.  The  Scarr  runs  down  the  middle  of 
the  parifh  is  milesi  and  for  6  mort  divides  it  firom  Tjrnron 
and  Keir.  A  vaft  water  fpout,  accompanied  with  tremens 
dous  thunder  and  lightningi  emptied  itfelf  near  the  fource  of 
the  Scarr  in  Julj  1783.  Evefy  one  here  was  furprifed  bj  an 
uncommon  flood  in  the  evening.  Herds  of  cattle,  and  their 
keepers,  were  foddenly  furrotmdcd :  People  at  work  were 
obliged  to  flee  for  fear  of  being  ixiclofed.  Hay  and  timber 
iirere  carried  off)  one  flone  bridge  and  a  hod(e,  with  the  wool 
of  1200  fliecp.  Were  fwcpt  away:  Dreadful  gnlphs  of  whole 
acres  were  made  on  the  face  of  the  hills.  There  arc  15  brooks 
In  this  parifli.  The  filh  in  the  rivers  or  broolrt  arc  falmon* 
caught  chiefly  in  July  aiid  Auguft,  and  fold  at  3  d.  per  lb. ; 
fea-trout ;  hirllngs,  caught  in  the  fame  months ;  bum-troot; 
pikes,  eels,  and  parrs.  Dowloch  is  a  fmall  lake  on  the  topf 
of  a  hill,  and  famous,  in  the  reign  of  fuperfthion,  for  coring 
all  manner  of  difeafes.  Thole  who  reforted  to  it  for  relief 
teft  fome  part  of  their  drefs  to  the  guardian  demon  or  iajot; 
By  all  accounts  it  has  ibme  mlnerstl  qualities. 

Pfipiilatiotti'-^Tbe  population  of  this  parifii  has  Increafed  np^ 
Wards  of  100  within  thefe  15  years,  owing  chiefly  to  the  di- 
vifion  of  fome  large  farms;  The  return  to  Dr  Webfter,  how- 
ever, was  857* 

InhabltaDts, 


5f  PenpanU  107 

InhabitaotSi  anno  1790  «.                    •                800 

Cameronians  -                    -                 «                77 

Scccdcrs  -                    -                     -                  ^3 

Annual  average  of  baptifins  «                •              24 

Heritors  «.                    •                    .                   g 

Tenants  .                    .                  -                   30 

Carpenters  -                   -                     -'                   y 

Malbns  •                 .                 .                •                 ^ 

Smiths  -                     -                    ••4 

Shoemakera  •                    «.                •                 p 

Weavers  -                    -                    -                 12 

Taylors       . .  -                     -                     -                     d 

Houfes  -                    -                    -                  166 

Horfcs  -                     -                      -                 ISO 

Cattle  -                     -                    -                    980 

Sheep  •                 w               •              -               12000 

P0^,_The  poor  in  Penpont  are  tolerably  provided  for. 
None  go  about  afkbg  alms  except  2  lunatics.  The  kjrk« 
feillon  has  L.  450  at  intereft.  The  Duke  of  Queenfbeny 
gives  a  bounty  of  upwards  of  L.  10,  and  like  wife  25  fiones 
of  oat^meal.  The  coUeAions  are  L.  12  per  annum.  The 
whole  annual  amount  of  the  contributions  for  the  poor,  who 
confift  of  25  familieSi  and  feveral  individuah,  is  about  L.  46, 
Their  principal  food  is  oat-meal  and  potatoes.  The  articles 
of  clothing,  efpecially  fhoes,  are  far  more  expenfive  than 
formerly;  fuel  has  alfo  advanced  in  price.  The  rent  of 
houfes  is  tripled.  When  a  perfon  fiands  in  need  of  a 
Durfe  as  wdl  as  necefiaries^  a  relation  commonly  takes  the 
charge,  and  the  fefiion  pays  at  the  rate  oi  h.  $  per  afmunu 
A  cafe  of  this  kmd  feldom  happens.  Fourteen  (hillings  are 
allowed  for  the  expence  of  a  funeral.  Four*fiiths  of  the  pa* 
rifli,  irhicli  is  mountainoosi  CQ&fifts  of  flie^p  ftrmsj  and  the 

feilurc 


SiA  Statjfiical  AccoufU 

foAwc  of  crop  m  1782  was  lefs  felt  here  than  in  many  other 
parts  of  the  ktngdom.  The  poor  belonging  to  the  Camcro* 
nians  and  Sfcceders  receive  fnpplies  from  the  parochial  fiinds<9 
y^t  not  one  of  thefe  fcils  contribute  a  farthing  to  the  main- 
.tenance  of  the  parifli  poor :  Moreover,  many  of  the  eftabliBi- 
ed  .church  attend  their  meetings  on  particular  days,  which 
adds  to  their  collections. 

IPtf^^j.— Labourers  havefufficient  .employment,  and  ar^ 
able  to  fupport  their  fiimQies.  The  wages  of  a  man  icrvant, 
employed  in  the  operations  of  hufbandry,  were  L.  2  per  ofuutm 
40  years  ago ;  now  they  are*L.  7.  The  wages  of  a  woman 
fervant,  40  yea^rs  ago,  werp  13  s.  4d.;  now  L.  3.  About 
40  years  ago,  a  day  laty>urer  received  6  d.  without  viftuals, 
now  he  receives  i  s.  Carpenters  wages  are  i  s.  4  d.  a  day ; 
mafons  1  s.  8  d.}  taylorsi  s.  They  are  all  doubled.  A  man 
during  harveft,  40  years  ago,  got  8  s.  4  d. ;  a  woman  5  s.  Now 
a  man  gets  L.  1:3:0,  and  a  woman  16  s.  Few  reap  by  the 
^y;  but,  when  they  do,  they  receive  jBrom  lod.  to  1  s.  ad, 
without  victuals. 

Church  and  S/i^nw/.— The'^Aurch  was  rebuilt  in  4782.  Ix 
is  pleafantly  fituated  on  an  eminence  on  the  Scarr.  The  fti- 
pcnd  is  L.  86  : 2  :  2,  with  a  glebe  worth  L.  11,  confiding  of 
p  acres.    The  Duke  of  Queenibcrry  is  patron. 

Improvements  Suggefied.-^Thc  repairing  of  roads,  fearching 
for  coal,  lead,  and  iron  mines,  might  be  attended  with  ad- 
iB^antage.  The  divifion  of  fome  &rms,  and  the  eftabliflimem 
of  a  woollen  manufaftory,  in  particular,  would  be  of  grc^ 
benefit.  Vaft  quantities  of  wool  and  woollen  yam  are  car- 
ried out  of  this,  and  the  neighbouring  pariQies,  to  a  great 
ibilance.    Penpont  is  fo  centrical^  that  it  is  (iid  iht  farmer; 

would 


9f  ftnpma.  305 

WodM  be  dSrpofed  to  bring  all  their  wool  to  it  without  anj 
advi^oce  on  the  price.  This  parifh  produces  annually  for  falo 
afclove  1500  i^on<-s  heavy  weight|  that  is,  24  lbs  Englilh  each; 
tod  ic,ooo  ought  be  found  in  the  circle,  beildes  fome  finer 
wool,  at  no  great  diftance,  for  particular  ufes.  Wool  has  been 
fold  thefe  \!mo  lait  years  at  5  s.  6  d*  the  ftone,  and  for  the  fix 
preceding  years  confiderably  cheaper.  The  late  demand  froixi 
England  raifcd  the  price* 

^ii//jiif/ir/«— An  old  Roman  caufeway  runs  through  Tyn* 
ron  <  loie  to  the  edge  of  the  Scar*  '  Fhere  are  2  moats  of  earthy 
I  obliifc,  and  4  very  large  cairns.  The  vefliges  of  Tiber's  caftle^ 
which  has  been  a  large  building,  are  to  be  feen  on  the  banks 
of  the  Nith.  A  fmall  part  of  the  wall  next  the  river  remains. 
Foflae  are  vifible,  and  fbme  entrenchments  where  it  was 
moft  acceffible.  It  is  fuppofed  that  the  barony  of  Tiber  is 
named  from  Tyber,  or  Tiber .us^  There  is  a  Roman  en- 
campment too.  The  Englifh  had  a  garrifbn  in  this  caAIe  in 
the  time  of  Sir  William  Wallace,  who  took  it  by  furprlfe. 

Mifcellamous  Obfervafyns. — White  and  red  free  ftone,  and 
whitiOi  grey  with  red  Ipecks,  abound  in  the  lower  part  of 
the  parifh.  There  is  calmftone,  and  plenty  of  ruddle.  Blue 
grey,  and  brownifh  whin,  are  very  abundant.  Arches  of  bridges 
are  built  with  whin.  Water  ftone  is  a  blue  grey,  dreiTes  neatly, 
and  is  ufed  in  building.  There  are  fome  rocks  compofed  of 
fpar,  whin,  and  lime  ftone.  Large  tranfpareat  white  ftones  are 
found  at  the  head  of  Glenmannabum*  There  are  fome  mineral 
fprings,  but  of  little  note,  impregnated  with  iron.  Marie  is 
found  in  leveral  bogs.  There  are  indications  of  lead,  iron,  and 
coal.  At  prefent,  coal  is  brought  from  Sanquhar,  at  the  diftance 
of  14  miles.  At  the  pit^  8  cwt.  cofts  \o\  d.  and  icils  here  at 
Voj-.  I.  P4  3^^ 


t  la  Statijiical  Accmm 

3  s.  Hieiv  are  3  orchards  ia  the  parifht  and  a  few  fruit 
trees  bcfides.  There  is  one  village  at  the  church,  #hich 
cootains  above  100  inhabitants.  The  people  in  this  parifh 
are  clean  and  ftout|  atid  generally  above  the  middle  fixe. 
Their  houfes,  drefs,  manners,  and  mode  of  living,  are  mnch 
improved.  Since  1770,  there  have  been  ic  ftudeats  at  the 
Univerdcy  from  this  pariih.  The  mpft  preyalent  diftei^pen 
are  colds.  The  rheumatifm  is  frequent.  Fogs,  which  are 
tmfavQurable  to  health,  creep  up  from  the  rivers.  There  are 
10  bridges.  Turnpike  roads  were  begun  to  be  made  laft  fum- 
s^er  in  this  part  of  the  country.  Single  coal  carts  pay  i|  <L 
toll  near  Sanquhar }  and  it  is  fuppof ed  that  each  will  carry 
fuch  additional  weight,  with  equal  cafe,  as  to  procure  a  profit 
pf  7  d.    The  ftatttte  work  is  obmmuted. 


yv^^ 


^Cranumdi  jiii 

J^ARiSii  Ot  CRAMONb^ 


Sfttdaiiott,  Surface^  and  Ektent* 

THIS  parifli  lies  in  the  couxities  of  EdihbnrgK  ancl  Lixi« 
lithgowi  on  the  foiith  ihore  of  the  Frith  ot  Forthi  in« 
to  which  the  river  Amon^  the  boundaiy  of  the  two  Qiires^ 
lalb  at  the  village  of  Nether  Crsunbnd,  It  is  in  the  prefby- 
ter^  of  Edinbuighf  and  the  fjnod  of  Lothian  and  Tweed« 
dale.  It  is  boiindcd  on  the  weft  bj  the  parifhes  of  Dai« 
meny  and  KirUifton  i  pn  the  (bath  of  Gorftorphine  and  St 
Cuthbert's ;  and  by  the  latter  parifli  on  the  eaft.  The  nor* 
them  boundary,  b  formed  bj  the  Forth,  which  is  here  from 
4  to  6  miles  over.  The  eaftem  part  of  the  parifli  is  rather 
flat,  though  tKe  grodnd  in  foine  places  forms  gentle  rifings; 
Near  the  centre  of  the  fouth  fide  is  a  craggy  ridge,  called 
Gorftorphine  Hill,  the  north  end  of  which  runs  into  thi^ 
parUhy  and  the  fout|i  end  of  it  into  tMt  whence  its  name  is 
derived.'  The  heigkth  of  this  hill,  which  bears  fome  re« 
femblance  to  the  figure  of  a  cock's  comb,  with  indentations 
in  feveral  places  along  its  fiimmit,  is  abont  470  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  fea«    To  the  north  and  weft  of  it,  the  fiice 

oi 

*  This  account  is  properly  an  abftra^  merely  o^  i  very  va« ' 
loable  MS.  tntitolcd,  **  the  Topography  of  Gfamond  PariHi/^ 
written  by  John  Wood,  Efq;  which  it  is  hoped  the  author  will 
take  an  early  opportunity  ot  communicaiing  to  the  publico 


lis  Statifiical  Account 

of  the  parifh  becomes  more  variegated  than  the  eaftem  fide^ 
being  diverfified  with  rifing  grounds  in  feverai  places.  But 
the  principal  ornament  of  the  weft  part  is  the  river  Amon» 
whofe  banks,  from  above  Craigiehall  to  Nether  Cramood» 
are  high  and  fteep,  almoft  wholly  covered  with  wood,  and 
frequently  chequered  with  bold  and  overhanging  rocks.  The 
land  rifes  in  general  to  Tome  heighth,  even  cloie  to  the 
fea  ihore ;  there  are,  hovc«er»  ia  three,  or  four  places 
along  the  (hore,  fandy  plains  or  links.  The  length  of  the 
pariih  m^ay  be  about  6  miles ;  and  the  breadth  fcarcely  ever 
exceeds  2 ;  though  the  (hape  is  rather  irregular,  afliiming  at 
the  weft  end  a  kind  of  furcated  figure.  It  contains  in  all 
about  3890  Scottifh  acres,  including  the  two  fmall  iflands  of 
Cramond  and  Inchmickery. 

Name.'^Tite  parifli  is  denominated  from  the  principal  vO* 
lage,  where  the  church  ftands,  called  Cramond,  finiated  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Amon.  Cramond  appears  evidently  to  be 
a  contraflion  of  CaeratMn^  derived  from  jtmon^  a  Celtic  word, 
flgnifying  a  river  in  general,  and  Caer^  whichi  in  the  Isunc 
language,  fignifies  a  fort,  via.  the  Fcrt  on  the  Amom. 

ManufaRures. — The  u^n  manofa^hnre  carried  on  by  Mcflfcs 
Cadells  and  Edington,  who  now  employ  a  capital  of  above 
L.  30,000,  confiAs  of  3  forges,  2  flitting  mills,  and  2  fteel 
furnaces,  at  which  bar  iron  is  manufa^red  into  Uiftered, 
fquare  or  faggot,  and  German  fteel,  hoops  and  rolled  troti, 
rod  iron,  boiler  and  pan  plates  for  fire-engines,  fockmoolds, 
anchor  palms,  bolts  for  fhip  building,  and  other  articles. 
AHove  30  men  and  boys  are  employed  immediately  at  the 
works,  fome  of  whom  earn  26  s.  per  week,  and  none  make 
Ids  than  4  s.  There  are  alfo  here  fpade  and  nail  manufac* 
tures  belonging  to  the  fame  company,  ia  which  above  450 

cwt. 


^'  rf  CramofuL  4fy 

cwt.  oFnaSSf  and  tooo  dozen  of  fpades,  are  annn^YTy  made^ 
and  a  file  manufaAure  has  been  lardy  eftablifhed.  Thefe 
throe  branches  employ  about  50  men  and  boys,  who  make 
firbm  3  s.^to  20  $•  per  week.  Much  fteel  is  exported  from 
hence  to  India  \  and  the  greateft  part  oF  the  rod  iron  made 
here  fa  fcnt-  to  Stirlmgfhire,  where  the  Craniond  company 
employ  above  zoo  men  to  manufaOure  ft  into  nails,  of  wtiich 
large  quantities  were^  before  the  late  war,  exported  to  Ame- 
rica. 

The  iron  ufed  at  the  Cramond  works  comes  chiefly  from 
Ruffia  aud  Sweden,  upwards  of  1000  tons  being  imported 
from  the  Baltic  yearly.  The.  average  coft  per  ton  (including 
coftoms  at  56  s,  and  freight  from  8  s.  to  15  s.)  is  L.  17  for 
RuiBat  and  L,  18  :  10  :  o  f 'r  bwedifh  iron  \  but  a  very  fine 
kind  of  the  Utter^  the  produce  of  the  famous  mine  of  Danne<* 
mora  in  Upland,  called  Oeregrund's  iron,  from  the  port  where 
it  is  (hipped,  comes  to  L.  24  per  ton.  This  fort  is  ufed  folely 
for  making  fteel.  J  hefe  different  kinds  of  iron  are  50  per 
cent,  dearer  than  they  were  in  1780,  which  rapid  advance 
has  lately  induced  the  proprietors  to  eredl  furnaces  at  Clyde^ 
near  Glafgow,  with  the  view  of  making  bar  iron  for  Cra« 
mond^  which  they  hope  will,  in  a  few  years,  furnifh  them 
with  iufficient  materials,  and  fave  the  great  fums  remitted 
for  that  article  The  Cramond  works- are  fupplied  with  coal 
from  the  Grange,  near  Borrowftounncfs,  a  property  of  the 
MeflVs  Cadclls,  and  they  annually  confume  about- 1600  tons, 
which  are  brought  in  floops  for  is.  6(X.  per  ton  freight ;  prime 
toil  and  oth^r  charges  may  be  about  7  s.  The  forge  ham« 
Ihcrs  weigh'  from  4  to  6  cwt.  each,  are  wrought  by  water^ 
and  make  from  lao  to  160  ftrokes  in  a  minute.  Thefe  ham- 
mers, and  other  caft  iron  articles  ufed  herej  are  made  at  the 
Clyde  furnaces. 

Rent. 


ftf4  ttoH^al  Jccmmi 

i?^.— Of  the  3890  acres,  eftimatcd  to  be  the  content  of 
the  parifh,  there  ai-e  about  2800  diftributed  into  26  farms 
firom  4^0  to  280  acres  each,  at  a  rent  of  20  s«  to  50s«  per 
acre  *  •  «  h*^B^o    o    • 

760  in  thrpofleflion  of  the  refpcAive  proprie- 
tors, valued  at  •  .  *  1300    o    o 
240  let  to  federal  different  perfons  in  fmall  pro- 

portions^  at  a  rent  of  •  -  {50    o    a 

^  of  wafte  and  hilly  ground,  fuch  as  Corftor- 

phine  hill,  &c«  •  «  -  20    o    • 

L.6700  o  • 
making  an  average  of  about  35s.  an  acre.  The  rent  of  the 
iron- works  may  be  reckoned  L.  26o»  add  the  village  of  Cra- 
xnond  may  yield  about  L.  140  per  annum^  fo  the  total  rent  of 
this  diftriA  is  L.7ioo.  The  valuation  in  the  ceis^books  of 
the  county  of  Edinburgh,  is  L.  9426  :  13  :  o,  and  in  thofe  of 
Weft  Lothian,  L.  705  Scots,  in  all  L.  10,13 1  :  13  :  o. 

Produce. — ^Thc  produce  of  the  land,  taken  one  year  with 

another,  may  be  thus  edimated  : 

Acres.  Prodacc  Price.    Total  per  tcre.  Total  Produce.     Totil 
per  acre.  Value. 

Hay  800  160  ft,  6^d.     L.4    610  128,000  ft.  L.3466 


Wheat 

700    62  bl.  21  s.. 

616 

6 

4.5S«>bl. 

4777 

Bcam&Peare450       6bl.  13  s. 

3.8 

0 

3,000  bl« 

1950 

Oats 

400       7bl.  14  s. 

418 

0 

2,800  bL 

i860 

Barley 

300      6bl.  1 6  s. 

4»6 

0 

x,8oo  bl. 

1440 

Potatoes 

150     30  bl.     7  s. 

10  10 

0 

4,500  bl. 

1S7S 

P^fture 

750  at  40  s.  per  acre 

« 

• 

1500 

Fallow 

250 

m 

• 

• 

Wa  He  lands    90 

m 

• 

20 

Straw  fold 

in  Edinburgh  and  elfewhere 

" 

412 

h. 

X7,ood 

' 

which 

9f  Cramond.  is  15 

wUcb  IS  at  the  rate  of  above  87  s.  an  acre ;  fo  that  the  land 
rent  is  equal  to  about  two-fifths  of  the  produce.    ' 

Crv^.— Haj  is  the  principal  article  raifed  in  this  diftriA,  the 
great  demand  for  that  commoditj  at  Edinburgh,  fccuring  a 
conftant  market.  It  is  produced  from  red  and  yellow  clover- 
feed,  mixed  with  rye-grafs^  and  is  cut  early.  The  frequent 
fepetttion  of  this  crop  has  leflened  the  returns ;  formerly  t 
or  10  pounds  of  clover  feed,  along  with  2  buQiels  of  rye- 
grafs,  were  fufficjent  for  an  acre,  and  produced  great  crops 
two  years  fucceffively ;  now  it  is  fgund  difficult  to  raife  hay 
the  fecond  year,  although  double  the  quantity  of  clover-feed 
is  uied.  Thefe  feeds  are  fown  with  the  foregoing  crop  of 
barley,  wheat,  or  oats,  the  ground  being  well  pulverized. 
Hay  is  a  great  favourite  of  the  farmers,  bong  an  article  eafy 
to  difpofe  of,  and  cheaply  reaped )  the  expence  of  cutting 
and  making  ftldom  exceeds  j;  s^  an  acre,  even  when  the  acre 
produces  above  200  fioncs.  Sometimes^  though  rarely,  a  ie« 
iond  crop  is  made  in  the  fame  year, 

"Wl&eat  takes  the  lead  of  all  other  grain  here,  the  farmers 
being  Induced  to  fow  as  great  a  quantity  as  poffible,  in  order 
that  its  lucrative  returns  may  better  enable  them  to  pay  the 
high  rents  common  in  the  parifli.  It  is  fown  in  every  fitua- 
tion^  on  every  foil,  and  cSttn  with  very  little  attention  to  the 
fhte  of  the  ground,  by  which,  and  by  frequently  repeating 
this  Impoverifhing  article,  the  crops  are  by  no  means  fo  good 
as  they  were  formerly.  Of  this  alteration  the  farmers  are  now 
become  fenfible }  and,  though  they  ftiil  endeavour  to  have  a 
coofiderable  portion  of  their  lands  in  wheat,  they  are  more 
attentive  to  have  the  ground  on  which  it  is  fown  in  good  con- 
dition. Summer  fallow,  potatoes,  beans  and  peafe,  and  rag* 
^ghj  (i.  c.  two  or  three  ploughings  after  a  crop  of  hay)  ftem 

now 


•i(  Stali/lual  Jccmmi 

BOW  to  be  the  fyftems  moft  generally  adopted  for  preparing 
the  land  to  bear  a  crop  of  wheat. 

Beans  and  peafe^  iingly  or  mixed  together^  are  raifed  in 
confiilerabk  qiianties  (  part  is  Town  in  drill^  and  regularly 
huife  hoed»  though  this  practice  i&  £ar  firom  being  gcneraL 
Oatt  are  ftill  n«uch  cultivated,  though  not  in  fo  great  a  pro» 
portion  to  o'her  giam  as  formerly.  Uotch  oats  havr»  in 
ibme  places,  lately  b<*cn  tubftituted  imtead  ot  barley  i  as  they 
are  well  adapted  to  ute  fuwing,  and  thus  enable  the  £u*incr 
to  work  ai^  land  in  th^iauie  P>>inn<rr  as  for  biirlcy.  A  large 
quantity  ot  barley  was  formerly  railed  in  th»  diirri^U  where 
the  whole  dung  of  the  farm  yard  was  ulual:y  put  on  the  bar* 
ley  landi  whuh  with  fitqucut  pioughirg^i  injured  a  lucrative 
return.  But  of  U^e,  the  drni]  bcn^  almolY  entirely  allotted 
to  the  wheat,  the  DarLy  uas  UcUineU  ^n  quanry,  and  be- 
coiiic  fo  u.'proiiticy  that  Some  farmer >  have  entirely  given  up 
that  article,  fubftituting  in  its  place  Dutch  oats  as  Defore 
mentioned,  (he  quantity  of  barley  produced  in  the  pariih^ 
iS|  howeveri  by  no  means  triiSlng. 

Potatoes  form  a  great  article  of  produce^  the  yicinlty  of 
Edinburgh  affording  an  opportunity  of  difpofing  of  them  to 
advantage.  There  are  fome  turnips^  cabbageS|  carrots,  and 
yams,  cultivated  here,  though  the  quantity  is  very  fmall. 
The  yams  are  a  very  produAive  crop,  never  yielding  ids 
than  50  bi)lls,  and  fometimes  100,  of  28  l^ones  each,  per 
acre,  even  without  dunging  the  land.  No  part  of  the  pafture 
ground  is  let  at  lefs  than  30  s.  an  acre,  and  fome  ?ields  a 
rent  of  45  s.  and  50  s.  the  produce  is  therefore  moderately 
eftimated  at  40s.  per  acre* 

I^otaihfi  s^Cr^.— No  certain  rotation  of  crops  prevails  in 

thia 


ev^9  ^^^sdiy  adopted:  li^  ycari  jTuminer  falluw,  or  hay  and 
rag  faugh;  ^  ^^'^\  I  Sdj.oats ;  ./fih^  beans  and  pe^f<? ;  5th, 
bafdey^/kh|^*  ,Qr,  ill,  fuiufner-falloi^i  2d,  wheat  jjdj 
^aas  i^^tb,  i^bcat  5  ;5ih,  barlr^  j  6th,  hay.    _ 

Jifofiurif^^rTh^  principal  manure  is  Aable  and  ftrcet  dung 
from  jutioburgh  and  iiCith,  of  wuich  about  10,000  cart 
loads  fxc  annually  brought  iuto  this  diifa'id,  that,  one  with 
another,  coli;  about  x  s.  prime,  coft,  and  x  s.  6  d.  for  car- 
ria^»  makiog  .a  total  cxpencc  of  1^1250,  and  much  the 
lame  quantity  of  liable  dung,  &c.  may  be  made  within  the 
parifli.  The  long  continued  ule  of  the  town  dung  has  tilled 
the  foil  full  of  every  kind  of  annual  weeds,  in  particular, 
bird-feed  or  wild  muilai;d|  called  here  JhaUrich,  of  which 
the  fields  are  in  one  coiitinued  blow  m  the  early  part  of 
fummer.  Sometimes  time  is  ufcd'from*  Burdyhoufc  or  G\U 
xnerton,  of  which  40  to  80  bolis  of  (bclb  are 'laid  on  each 
acre,  and  coft  i  s.  4  d.  per  bolL  M.irle  was  ditcovered  Ibme 
years  ago,  on  the  farms  of  Marchfield  and  Craigcrook, 
where  a  conGderable  quantity  was  procured  ;  but  tht  work* 
iag  it  becommg  very  ezpenlive,  is  now  difconttnued,  aud  the 
pits  are  drowned. 

i 

ImpUnunts  of  HuJbandi'yJ'-^SmTLlYs  chain  plough,  drawn  by 
two  horfts,  IS  generally  ufed,  which  is  much  preferab;e  to 
the  old  Scots  ploughs,  that  required  four  hoHes  and  a  dri- 
ver. Harrows  are  generally  of  the  old  kihd,  with  4  buUb  and 
20  iron  teeth,  improved  by  flots  iniiead  of  rungs  ^  there  are 
alfo  fome  of  Lord  Kames*s  harrows  ufed  here.  Dung  carts 
hold  above  29  cubic  fecf,  are  mounted  on  ftoat  narrow 
wheeb  4  J  feet  diameter,  with  iron  axles,  weigh  about  5  cwt. 
altogether,  and  ufually  carry  16  cwt,  two  hories  being 
•  Vol.  !•  '    *     E  c  yoked 


9>8  Su^kaAimm 

yoked  to  each  %  but  fingte  horft  caret  fft  dhcn  dUlp  li 
vhkh  it  is  aflerted  one  borie  ean  Anm  ii  cwt.  ai  cafilf  m 
two  do  i6  io  the  forner.  Corn  orlt  «f  fimpk  i|iadiiiic% 
mduated  occaCoiully  upon  the  wbeels  of  ih^  Aing  mrtB»  for 
{giving  hay  or  unthreihed  grab,  llierc  wtt  towf  drill 
ploughs  i  jdenty  of  ftpne  rolien  5}  fiect  long,  and  14  indici 
diameter  (  a  few  of  Mr  Sandiland't  fod-cuttert}  fbmnc  very 
complete  threlhing  macbines  upon  a  large  Icale;  and  one  df 
a  peculiar  cooftruAion  invented  by  Mr  Robertfon  91  Gfan- 
ton»  wbtcby  though  by  no  means  comparable  ia  ftrpigth  to 
the  former,  anfwcrs  the  purpofe  fufl|cient)y,  and*  coftn^ 
pnly  L.  20,  is  within  the  reach  of  even  tbc  infcrior  older  of 
farmers  •• 

Draugbt  Cif//r.-*AU  draught  wor):  in  tl|e  porifli  is  |nw 
formed  by  horfes,  which  come  chiefly  firom  linlithgow  and 
Lanark  (hires,  meafure  from  15  to  t6  hands  high,  and  coft 
£rom  Lh  16  to  L.  20.  There  may  be  about  Jtoo  horfes  now 
employed  in  hul|iandry  Fork,  whereas  the  nuuiber  was  far* 
merly  double,  when  £f>ur  horks  wcr^  ahnoft  univcrlaliy 
yoked  to  each  plough. 

Ffius  ef  Latour^^n^htrt  are  aboo(  100  plooghmea  and 
farters,  whofe  annual  wages  ate  £rom  L.  4  to  JU  5  in  inomcy, 
96  s.  for  kitchen f,  10  s.  fiortwopairof  (hoes,  6^  boUs  of 
pat^mea),  diet  in  harveft,  a  froe  houfe  and  garden,  the  car* 
ria^e  of  their  coifb^  and  fome  (mail  perquifites,  ail  which 

*  Of  thef^  iipptempnts,  Smfill'i  plough  (pfts  L.  a,  n  duag 
SMit  coiqplete,  L.8  :  8 :  o^  a  corn  cart  15  s.  and  a  'fibnc  roUer 
with  the  frame  L.  a. 

t  KiUkn  is  an  allowance  tnftead  of  milk|  b^ttCTi  (ioaU  beer, 
^  (ome  other  arti^  of  Ids  va^e. 


^f  be  modcrnelr  cftinuted  at  L.  13 ;  a  grnt  increaTe  wheii 
cedipared  with  their  wages  in  I76<?,  which  were  no  mort 
riktti  L  8,  inehidiiig  e»ery  article  %  and  evea  ft  late  a*  1775* 
L.  9  was  reckoned  high  emolument.  Maid  fcTTaibs  of  foiw 
aiertgetL.3^«F«''>  voAtxt  maintained  in  the  hbufei 
Baramca  and  other  able-bodied  labourers  are  paid  at  the 
nteot  5$.  and  6  s.  per  #eek,  whei  conftantlj  employed  j 
When  only  occafionally,  i  s.  id  per  day.  A  mAfon'i  wage* 
kn.gd.  a  day,  and  a  hay  cutter's  is.6d.  to  is.8d.  per 
day.  Reapers  get  from  6d.  td  I  s.  *  day,  and  maintenance 
dwtog  harwft.  Women  working  in  the  fields  earn  in  ge- 
neral A  a  day,  and  are  much  better  employed  than  former- 
ly,  then  now  being  a  great  de^  of  ho«ing,  wefeling,  and 
picking  performed  by  them,  infomuch  thu  they  ufually  h*ve 
at  leaft  one;  hal#  of  the  year  outwUrk.  When  not  thus  enw 
ployed,  they  betake  tbemfclves  to  fpinning,  at  which  they 
icUom  make  more  than  gd*  a  day* 

Work  br  «^e  P'***  •*  «**  '**'**«  '"*°  *^'  '**  *^'**  '**^ 
itcut  ai  $a.  per  acre  on  an  average,  andthrelhed  at  6d.  per 
boil.  Hay  is  cut  from  is.  6d.  to  js.  per  acre.  acc6rd.ng  td 
the  weight  of  the  crop,  and  made  in  fdme  cafes  at  ».  ptf 
acre.  Stone  and  Ume  dikes  built  at  12s.  per  rood,  matenals 
being  fiirniOied  by  the  employer ,  honfes,  tarils,  aiid  ftable* 
at  35s.  dittOk 

The  fottowing  tatjle  eihibits  a  comparafi»e  ttaterf  the 
prke«oflaboorini76o,  I77S»  »"*»79<'-        *     ^.      ,      . 

v^^"  r--"*  r^"  f^^'  .  r^"^ 

,7«oL.8    .   0L.1I6  tiL.o  6  7L.<*   «    <iL'«»  *»  * 
,„.     5,ao      a6o     00  to      ot4       ooj 

fijhericii 


^2d  StahjiicaJ  ^ccHlmt 

FIJbertei.—Tht^ROiCTks  ire  at i  W  ct>6>  Wc  oyRer^flfifi 
cry  being  much'  drgen^m^ed  from  wliat  h  traf  abddt  jcr 
years  ago,  when  eleven  krge  bosttk  b&fen  .Ing  to  Cratnoiid 
were   conftantly  occnpiccf  ^during  the  ftaf -n  lii '"dragging 
oyfters,  the  greatcft  part  bf  irliicll  tra§' fold  toT)utch  veficlsar 
an  average  of  4%  the  herring  bar?e1. '  The  ft^lf^t  V^  therf 
fo  prodi;iftivc^,  that  it  was  ufurfTor  al)oar  with:  five  &ands  tv 
make  ]ios.  a  day ;  but  they  ai*e  hoW  fo  much  deftroyed,  pro? 
bably  with  over  Tilhing»  as  to  employ  kt  prefeht  n6  more^ 
than  4  or  5  boats,  'and  thefc^only  occafionally.    The*  fcalps' 
about*  Inch  Mickcry,  belonging  to  Lady  drecnwicTx,  a»e  let 
at  a  rent  oF  L.  24  prr  annum^   to   the  Newhavch  *6fhcrs.* 
The  Amon  formerly' abounded  with  a  virfety  of  fifli/ fiich  at 
trouts,   grilfcs'*,  fome  falmon,   aYi*d  great  plenty'bf'finelts  ;• 
Ijut  owing  to  liming'the  adjacent  grblinds,  ^and  Waterlog  flax 
in  the  river,  it  was  for  fome  yeart  aTmoft  ti>taliy '^defert^d  by 
thcfe  different  kinds  cf  fift*,  i^^kh  art  ftill  extrertiely  i^arce. 
Whales  have  fometimes  been  flranded  on  the  iands  here,  parti- 
cularly in  1690,  when  no  Icls  anumWi-'than  l5»'thfiugjliclPfhe 
very  finalleft  fort,   were  left  %y  th6  tide  on  tbt  ihor^AMitti' 
of  Cramond  Ifland  ;   and  hi'  1769,   two  (if  the  fpetmaidsii 
kmd,  each  ;d  feet  long,  w^re  caO  afliorenot  hr  from  the 
village  of  Cramond. 

1     '  ..      .  • 

Minerals. — Frec-ftone  abounds  in  fcveral  places;  -to  al/b 
vlkin-rtonc,  moor-flone,  and  granite.  Iron-itone  is  found 
a  on^  the  fhore  at  Caroline  Park ;  and  there  is  a  great  ftp. 
].c  uuncc  of  coal  on  the  fea  fide  in  the  eaftem  part  of  RoyC 
'   ^n,  diid  the  adjvcnt  lands  of  Wardic,  where  large  ftams 

arc 

•A  fmaWer/peciM  .>f  falmon«  nr  t%c  coofinton  fidipoa  , 
01  a  yea  I  old.    Naturalills  have  not  determined  this  point  witl^ 
certainty. 


ftfc  pferecitftleBoA  aBoTc  and'BclWr'  the  tfdAiiaii/^'^e 
htighbouring  people,  tsicn-fu*  is -fcartei' often  cistrryoffftotft 
f hence  pared  J  kt  cml,  tixough  of  ^fi  cxcc^ffrg^oi*  cfozWfi 
A  pttwas  fiink  !ri  PflForni'WOod  mif6B;'but^  f3W  abat^ 
doiied'on  atftouritof  tHtrbddntfst)f  *th«^<dSiF;  ahdtKcfe'arl 
ifl  ilfrlinfci'bf  KdyftouniHc  vrffigft  oT  KVeril  pits."  dh  tW 
landi  of  MarchficMTs  a  spring-  of  miiwraV  watc^,  caKU^  ft* 
WclPSPSpiv^,  >cc6orfc*  beneficial*  in  fcorButid  dHb;  Tftfl 
higfaf]^  pargativc'wiicn  taken  iii  quantities;  ---::..      •-: 

■  •  TiHit^/'rfC^ambfi'd.—Tht  viHage'dF  Gramend,-litttatcd  oftf 
fhc  caft*  fide' of  th?  Amon,«  ar  its  jiin6H6ii  with^  tbt  V^tA] 
cotnafts  74  fetniUcs,  300*!nhabiRimi,  tddKVf  irori  workmenj 
faifors,  ind  Jay  labbiircri.  It  lias  a  Karbour;  (fpedifiecf  in  thi 
recdfds^'of  "Eatclicquer  ts-a  opcck.  wlthih  tbe  port  cff  Ldtftf 
fo^^rtiidi  bcWng7  fl8*ps,  thicflt  employed*  by  the  iron  wbffcs/ 
meafuring  288  tons,  and*  tnanried  ^ith'-zj  ftamcn  and -a^ 
prentices.    The  Amon  is  navigable  only  for  the  fpace  of  a 

.  £AirVil|  P^trek;  itipends  and  SeheoL-^ht  ehtirth'  ir«>l$irf^ 
gM^  boilt  in  16^65  biit  bis  becfl  fr^i^ntly*  repaired  ^and 
enlirged  fiocc  tRSiif' rim?.  The  patron- fe-*lr' Ramfiy»  di 
Barntoir.  The  ftipferid,  ai  augmented  in  f<?«5;  b;  mteey/ 
L.  s*'*  S  •  05  fcw'^Tf  44i  boUaroaM.  ijj?  boflfe^  ifcheati  i# 
boHs ;  >  meal,  fr  boBsi  with  a  cormho^ul^HMtiftr,  ttttd  k  gtMfr 
of  above  5  acres  of  rich  laftd.  ^hb^ftU^frtfhSAtr^i  Tateiy  H 
L.  tot^:  ii,^itlk4i  bbBf^f  fc»rky.  lliclbtcrcftofti.  ijT 
was  granted  by  Sir  John  Inglis  in  li^tPtftf^^^^M^^foldUbl: 
The  fees  for  writing  and  Englifh  arc  i  s.  4  d.  the  quarter ; 
for  Arichiheitc  ah<l^liadii  3  ».  'fher^tfe  4)efides^#D  pIriSite 
fehodk  ThefchftlMiPat^  ^tht'  three  Akot^^  fakei»  together^ 
m^  annually  amount  to  150.  .  i .  -  •  n^^  1  '  •  ; ::  c  .^ 

^     '  Parochial 


^roeUal  Ftmif,0^Tbc  pirochial  fiinds  tnmnt  toi 
ti»  laaOf  yidding  an  nnnrnkmA  of  above  L.  {6^  the  coUcc* 
tions  at  (he  chsrdi  dooei  cooie  to  about  L^  39 1  and  the  pro* 
Ibts  of  the  mortcloihi  to  above  L  7  ammallyi  making  a  total 
yearly  income  of  above  L*  loa.  With  thia  fimi»  41  ordioaiy, 
and  16  entraordioary  poor,  are  fopported  and  relieved,  oe* 
eofdingtotheir.fevenlneceffitiesi  aftcrwhich  there  cooh 
laonly  remains  m  fmall  furplos,  at  the  end  of  each  ycwi  to 
aogment  the  capital  fund.  Thialtftated  from  the  averafi 
of  the  receipts  and  diiburfements  for  10  years  paft,  inclnding 
in  the  former  the  coUeffions  on  facramental  occafioos,  the  avo» 
rage  of  which  L.  6 : 4 :  o  annaaliy  i  a  tnflmg  (om  compared 
with  the  produce  at  the  communion  1690*  L*  2o  :  5  :  o>  and 
1691,  L.23: 15  :o.  lowards  the  end  of  the  laft,  and  begin* 
niog  of  the  prefeot  century,  the  annoal  contribntiom  weie 
much  the  (ame  as  at  prefent,  irhik  theattvagennmber  of  or» 
.  dM»ry  poor  is  now  more  than  doubled. 

CiaritMt  Fmtitiatimi.  «—  Oraigcrook  mortiiKatkMi  b  an 
tftate  of  above  L.  yoofer  amutm^  which  was  mortified  for 
charitable  and  pious  ofes,  bot  not  confined  to  this  parifli,  by 
John  Strachan  of  Craigcrook,  about  the  1720.  The  mana- 
gers are  two  Advocates,  two  Writers  to  the  Signet,  and  the 
"whok  Prcflqftery  of  Edinburgh,  under  the  controol  of  the 
^rds  of  Seffiott  |  and  thefi:  oaanagers  are,  in  terms  of  the 
deed  of  mortification,  direOed  ^  to  em{4oy  a  difcreet  perfon 
^  to  uplift  the  rents  when  doe,  and,  as  uplifted,  to  emgAoj 
« the  Ame  as  the  forefaad  perfoM  order,  to  poor  old  meni 


k— >The  p9pnla|ion  has  of  late  years  dtmintflicd 
eoofiderably,  as  appears  Srom  the  ftllnpiiH  ftMnent,  taken 
|pom  the  pariih  itgiacnt 

Baptitfp%. 


"I 

-Hi 
Hatak    Females.      TebA. 


stftotoi^- 

557 

5«S 

107a 

69% 

1700  to  1719 

54S 

509 

I05t 

SH 

1730101739 

5«J 

jao 

I03J 

6u 

i74»toi7S9( 

5" 

45« 

96a 

48» 

1760  to  1779 

3W 

373 

759 

45t 

Tctd  m  t  ccotorj    ajio       9368         4878        9871 


.JUboDt  the  i750»  whea  Dr  Webfter  nade  hit  toqairj 
Ac  oumbcff  of  the  people  in  Scotland,  the  return  from  thh 
^■rifli  was  1468  indiiMdoab.  From  an  eftimate  taken  19 
9785^  then  were  then  319  Cuniliest  and  1340  imiii  vis* 

nmiGca.  fiadividttdl*. 

37  Gcndemen  and  inrincn,  (ferfaata  aduded),  con- 
taining •  •  .  •  jof 
20  Iron  workmen  •  «  91 
13  Seamen  •  •  •.  5C 
ft  Wrightii  carpenter^  cooper,  turner  •  4$ 
10  Gardeners              -   •               «              «*  42 

8  Weavers           ...              *  41 

9  tiafbna  •  «  •  •  .  3f 
6  Smiths  •  •  -  •  *  ^S 
5  T^loia           .          •           •         •          .  a# 

yBmwisr^  haher ■  fantcheK  Ihofimaker*  ^^^-^^^^  tiAtu 

water,  and  fchoohnaftcr       •           •           *  -  3i 

193  CoamiMi)abo|iren,4K^         ^       •         •  637 

3«f  f3«» 

9f 


1?M 


smUkwtyHfctmi 


fXfk^  14  fimilinjiinfift  |>f  I  indindaal  each,  total 

1*-  I       .r.        I 


« 
1    r 


1^1 


39 

»3 

4 

2 

3 

3 

.  I  ^ 

I 


10 

IX 

S2 

>3 
«4 

'5 
16 


•  I  ' 


t  ■ 


14 
152 

«^ 

216 

^95 
144 
126 

104 

36 
20 

'33 
a4 
39 
M 
»5 


3ij^ 


'340 


«  Even  this  number -has  fince  dimmiflied;  for  DtfrBcMr, 
the  prefent  minifter  of  CramoiKi,  bx9mg  yierj  oUigiagly  ta- 
ken a  lift  of  the  parUh,  foundi  that,  in  the  ftthoi  y«|r» 
1790,  it  contained  299  families  only,  and  ixia  ionk.  The 
caufes  of  this  diminution  in  the  numbers  of  tl^  people^arep 
the  removal  of  mechanics  to  towns,  the  iailure  of  the  oyfter 
filhery,  and  the-increafe  of  pafture  ground.  Some  jmn  |go, 
a  large  pluptrty,  confifthig  oE  Qw9  fanas,  «te  wboUy  tu^cd 
4ato  grx&t  ftod  ftili  remains  in.  the  fame  ftate,  «/ 

D^dj^/.— Agues,  fome  years  ago,  aficAed  the  commoa 
ficpjple  fo  much  during  the  fpring  and  fummer  months,  ^bat 
the  neceflary  htiibandry  work  was  with  difficulty  performed, 
iijr  want  of  hands.    This  difeafe  ufed  to  be  exceedingly  fe- 

rcr« 


*  ttd  difiveffii^l  btttf  fioce  the  year  177I1  U  haa  almoft 
wholly  dilappcared  from  this  neighbourhood,  which  may  be 
attributed^  m  a  grcal  meafurey  to  the  thorovgb  draioiog  of 
the  gmMmda. 

Roadi4mJSiutr*'''^The  roads  in  this  diftriA  are  kept  in  ex- 
cellent repair^,  being  chiefly  competed  of  granite  broken  ioto 
finall  pieces*  and  ftrewed  on  the  middle  of  the  road  i  after 
Which,  the  fides  and  ditches  are  dear  .d  of  rubbiih,  which  is 
thrown  over*  and  foon  mcorporatcs  with  the  ftoncs.  Th^ 
poDlic  road  fipm  £djnbcirgh  to  Qucrensfcrry,  one  of  the  pic** 
ianteft  and  noft  frequented  in  Scotland,  traverfes  great  part 
of  the  parifli,  croffing  the  Amon  at  Cramond  bridge.  Many 
feats  adorn  this  difiriA,  Royftoun  is  one  of  the  largeft  hjoo- 
fts  in  the  three  Ijothians. 

£mimtii  ifiai— *Of  perfons  meriting  to  be  particularly 
neiuionedt  the  moft  diftinguifhcd  eminent  men,  who  were 
either  natives  of«  or  reiidtnt  proprietors  in,  the  parifli,  ar^, 
ift,  John  Eiphinftone,  kcond  Lord  Balmerinoch|  a  nobleman 
noted  for  his  (pirited  oppofition  to  the  tyrannical  proceedings 
of  Charles  1.  §pr  which  he  narrowly  eicaped  lofing  his  head, 
and  for  being  the  beft  frienc*  that  the  Covenanters  ever  had, 
as  be  fpent  a  great  fortune  in  fiopport  of  their  caufe.  *  2d,  Sir 
Thomas  Hope  of  Grantoun,  well  known  as  one  of  the  afaleft 
and  moft  foccefiful  lawyers  at  the  Scottifii  bar,  to  whofe  un- 
remitted exertions,  and  found  advice,  the  firm  eftaUiihment 
of  the  Prcibyterian  mode  of  worfliip  in  this  kingdom  is  in  a 
great  meafore  owing^  3d,  Sir  William  Hope  of  Grantoun^ 
his  grandfon,  who  was  diftinguiihed  for  fuperior  proficiency 
in  all  the  £iihionable  accomplifiiments  of  the  times  in  which 
he  lived,  particularly  for  great  Ikill  in  fencing,  on  which  he 
pubHihed  a  celebrated  treatife*    4th,  That  fincfcholar,  and 

Vol.  I.  F  f  plealaal 


ftftS  Smtificci  Aceeuni 

pleafant  coraptiiion,  but  crafty  and  flipperyfhldfaiattt  OMrg^ 
MackenziCi  firft  £arl  of  Cromarty,  whofe  otuneroitt  woHb 
ture  well  knowd.  5th,  John  LaNr  6f  Lamriftoti,  CooipCrdDcr 
Cenerai  of  the  Finances  in  France,  one  of  the  inoft  txtfaar« 
dinary  characters  that  this  or  any  other  country  has  produ- 
ced, to  whore  great  merit  and  abilities  fuflfeient  joftice  has 
Hot  yet  been  done.  6th,  George  Cleghom^  an  cmiuem  phf- 
fician  in  Dublin,  the  fihrft  pcrion  that  eftablifhed  irhat  conidf 
with  any  degree  of  propriety,  be  called  an  anatomical  (choel 
in  Ireland.  7th,  William  Ckghom,  who  was  tflbcidfted  with 
his  uncle  George,  jnft  now  mentioned,  as  P^rofieflbr  of  Ana^ 
Corny  in  Trinity  College  Dublin,  but  died  foon  afterwards  in 
1783,  at  the  age  of  98,  uniTcrially  regretted^ 

Mfjcfllafifous  Ofytrvaiiptu.'^Thtre  are  a  coacbeti  and  4  fcvw 
wheeled  chaifes  in  this  parifli  %  7  Itcenicd  aie-houics«  The 
^corruption  among  the  lower  ^lafiesj  lays  the  Rev.  Mr  {omr^ 
the  minifter,  is  mournful ;  as  perhaps  in  few  country  parifhes, 
the  liberties  and  vic^  of  the  towp  ar^  taj  where  mor^  accs^ 
rately  copied* 


NUM^ 


NUMBER   xrm. 

PARISH  OF  DALM^NY. 
Bj  fie  Rev.  Mr  Thomas  Robb&tsom,  F.  R.  S.  Edim. 


Situation  and  Extent • 

THIS  pariih  U  fituated  in  the  iliire  and  prdbytery  of 
Linlkhgov»  in  the  fynod  of  Lothian  and  Twceddale. 
It  is»  firom  eaft  to  weft,  near  4  miles  long,  and  between  2  and 
3  broadt  It  ii  bounded  on  the  eaft  by  the  pariQi  of  Cramond; 
on  the  fqnth  bj  Cramond  and  Kirklifton  \  on  the  weft  bf 
Abercocn;.  and  on  the  north  by  the  Firth  of  Forth.  There 
is  a  diftriA  of  k  upon  the  weft,  not  included  within  the  above 
limiu,  called  Auldeatby^  entirely  disjoined  from  ic  by  the  pa- 
rifties  of  Abertorn  and  Kirklifton,  and  which  antieatly,  it  b 
faid,  formed  a  feparate  parUh.  The  lands  of  Auld^athy  are^ 
from  eaft  to  weft,  about  a  mile  and  a  half  long;  and,  fjroqpi 
fouth  to  north)  near  a  mile  broad.  They  lie  about  4  miles 
eaft  from  Linlithgow  \  partly  upon  the  fouth,  and  partly  up* 
on  the  north,  of  the  great  road  between  Linlithgow  and  £di|^« 
burgh. 

Kame^  and  Language. — Dumanaj^  the  original  name  of  the 
parifli,  is  faid  to  mean,  in  the  Gaelic,  a  bfaek  heath:  of.  wlych, 
probably,  a  great  portion  of  the  higher  grouDds  m  it  onoe 
confifted*    The  Gaelic,  or  Celtic,  was  the  original  tongue  of 


^aS  Stati/lleat  A0Mmt 

the  whole  Iflaad;  and  Gaelic  ntiM8»  it  mtjrbe  ohfisn^  USSk 
prtrail  to  a  very  great  extent  in  it,  pHtkohrty  hi  Scotiand; 
ior^  although  a  foreign  langoage  was  Ivonght  hither  frooi 
the  Continent  by  the  anceftort  of  the  greater  part  of  the  pre- 
fent  inhabitants,  many  original  names,  particulariy  thofc  of 
places,  were  naturally  retained.  Thos,  Dtmiat  (a  place  in 
this  parifli)  is  faid  to  be  the  Gaelic  for  «  hiU  offidlow  dctr  \* 
Afmi  hill,  for  a  <<  hiU  oncultiTated.'*  Inftances  of  foch  dcri- 
Tations  are  numerons  in  the  neighbourhood,  and  eliewhere^ 
as  the  Forth^  or  the  «« water;"  Incb Garvy^  or  •« ro^gh  iflandi* 
Kiri/ifian^  or  «<  a  place  uidofed  on  a  river  }*  Lmlkbggmt  cr 
<(  dog's  pool  '^  Torpkichen^  or  «  fight-hill  ;*  CaUtr^  or  ^  oak* 
^  wood.**  The  language  which  was  brought  from  the  Coo- 
thient,  and  which  is  now  general  over  the  Ifland,  was  paniy 
hitroduced  by  the  Anglo-Saxons,  in  the  fifth  eentnry,  into 
England ;  and  partly  by  the  Dano-Saxons,  in  the  ninth  and 
eleventh,  both  into  En^and  and  Scotland.  Hie  Daao-Saxon 
has  continued  to  be  fpoken  m  the  greater  part  of  Scotland, 
and  panicularly  what  is  called  the  LowUmitt  with  fittle  devi- 
ation fit>m  the  original,  till  near  the  prefent  times,  in  vrtiich 
it  has  been  giving  place  very  rapidly  to  the  modem  Eoglifh 
language^  The  cauie  of  this,  independent  of  the  compara- 
tive roerita  or  demerits  of  the  two  dtalefb,  has  been  the  union 
-of  the  Scottlfli  and  Englifli  crowns ;  firom  which,  as  England 
is  the  larger  and  wealthier  country,  and  is,  befides,  the  court 
end  of  the  Ifland,  the  Engli(h  tongue  has  gained  the  alcen- 
dancy,  and  become  the  ftandard  of  faflnon  and  of  propriety. 

Surfaa 

*  Horns  of  deer  have  lately  been  dug  up  in  its  fluru ;  and 
frme  bones  of  fuch  dimenfioni,  as  render  it  probable  that  tbey 
'.Vlooged  to.  the  moofe-decr,  or  ibme  other  of  the  laigeft  of  the 
fiag  i^edes.   *      ^ 


9f  l)alfniny.  429 

Surface  and  ^r.-^The  parifh  lies  high  in  the  middle,  doi 
dines  fomewhae  to  the  weft,  bat  a  very  coofideraUe  decliviqr 
to  the  (outh,  and  ftill  more  to  the  north»  where  it  termiiiatei 
with  a  bold  batik  upon  the  Forth.  Within  it  are  three  long 
rocky  and  woody  ridges,  or  rather  little  hills,  Mons-hiH, 
Dundas  hill,  and  Craigie-hill ;  the  profpe^ls  from  which  are 
both  remarkably  extenfive  and  diverfified.  I'he  view  from 
MonS'hill,  in  particular,  has  been  celebrated  for  its  almoft 
unequalled  compais  and  beauty*  Standing  upon  the  top  of 
this  ridge,  yott  fee  the  mountain  of  Ben- Lomond  on  the  weft ; 
the  Ochil  and  Xomond  hills  to  the  north  i  North  Berwick- 
Law,  the  Bafs,  and  Ifle  of  May,  to  the  eaft ;  Pentland  and 
Lammer-cnuir  hills  to  the  fouth.  BeGdes  the  Forth,  and  the 
numerous  towns,  villages,  feats,  woody  hills,  and  rifing 
grounds,  on  each  bank  of  It,  the  charming  park  of  Barn« 
boogie  lies  immediately  under  the  eye,  charafterifed  for  itt 
bold  waving  furface,  compofed  of  the  fineft  heights  and  lawns, 
and  alfo  for  the  variety,  elegance,  and  fancy,  of  the  rides 
within  its  circuit.  The  proipe£l  extends,  in  general,  as  far 
as  the  eye  can  reach;  and  fizteen  counties,  in  whole  or  in 
part,  are  faid  to  be  within  the  view.  Different  travellers  have 
remarked,  that  this  fcenery  is  among  the  fineft  m  £urop^ 
This  may  account  for  the  falubrity  of  the  air,  for  which  the 
pariQi  has  been  noted  i  owing,  perhaps,  to  its  high  fituation, 
and  to  its  being  guarded  from  the  eaft  and  weft  winds  by. 
the  lulls  within  its  bounds.  The  village  of  Dalmeny,  which 
lies  delightfully  fituated,  nearly  in  the  line  between  Mons- 
hill  wd  Uundas-hill,  is,  from  this  circumftance,  proteAed 
from  the  north-eaft  and  fouth-weft  winds  i  the  former  the 
moft  baleful,  and  the  latter  the  moft  violent,  in  this  country. 
The  longevity  of  its  inhabitants  has  been  often  remarked : 
Mr  Nafmith,  the  late  minifter,  who  was  63  years  in  ofBce 
hcrej  died  at  9 1  i  Mrs  Nafmith  near  the  fame  age  i  the  fchool- 

maimer 


«3*  Stati^icalJcmmt 

mafter  and  beidle  abote  So;  To  that  the  four  ( 
made  up  above  340  years.  Near  this  village^  three  peribsi 
of  one  family  died  this  year,  whofe  ages»  takea  together,  wex^ 
about  340  years.  From  the  parifli  regifter  it  appears,  tha^ 
}n  the  courfe  of  thefe  36  years  paft,  35  perfons  have  clic4 
between  50  and  60  years  of  age;  48  between  60  and  70  s  5I 
between  70  and  80 ;  26  between  80  and  90 }  and  3  at  90 
and  upwards.  The  purity  of  the  air  has,  among  other  coo- 
iiderations,  occafioned  a  great  number  of  gentlemens  fons  t# 
be  (ent  as  booruers  to  the  pari£h  fchool  here. 

Sm/t  Acra^  and  Rent. — ^The  foil  of  the  higher  grounds  ii^ 
in  general,  a  (hallow  poor  clay,  for  the  moft  part  on  a  cold 
bottom,  and  which,  in  fcvcral  places,  borders  on  tilL  That 
of  altnoft  all  Auidcathy  is  nearly  the  fame*  The  harveft,  oa 
this  account,  is  near  two  weeks  later  than  in  the  aeighbounog 
parifhes  of  Cramond  and  Kirklifton.  At  the  fame  time,  there 
are  fome  confiderable  tra£b,  particularly  the  declivities  and 
lower  lying  lands,  which  are  a  good  loam ;  but,  in  ieveral 
places,  intermixed  with  fand.  In  this  parMh  are  alfb  a  few 
fpots  of  what  is  called  perpetual  foU^  exceedingly  fienile, 
and  which  have  had  no  dung,  it  is  faid,  in  the  memory  of 
man.  Part  of  the  minifter's  garden  is  of  this  kind,  which 
has  been  long  known  to  produce  great  crops ;  and,  of  late, 
furpriiing  ones  of  potatoes  have  been  reared.  For  experi- 
ment's fake,  potatoes  were  lately  planted  on  a  portion  of  it, 
fix  years  running,  anl  the  laft  crop  was  as  good  as  the  firft. 
Dung  was  applied  one  year,  but  the  plants  ran  to  ilalks  and 
lcavc5 ;  the  roots  were  numerous,  but  very  fmall.  The  num- 
ber of  acres  in  the  whole  parifh  is  above  4500*  Hills,  plan- 
tations, avenues,  &c.  may  occupy  about  500  of  thefe;  about 
2300  are  in  pifture,  and  1700  in  tillage.  Rent  Js  from  f^  s. 
(0  40  J.  the  acre :  The  greater  part  lets  at  from  20  s,  to  30  s.^ 

the 


Aelteft  land  firem  309.  to  40  s.  The  total  rent  cannot  b^ 
iOtiSitj  afccrtaincdi  as  in  fome  farms  it  is  partly  paid  ia 
ViAual,  the  price  of  which  varies  every  year  \  but  it  may 
probably  be  eftimated  at  about  L-jooo  Sterling  yearly.  The 
Valued  irent  is  L.  9620  Scots* 

Ci«/Snifv.— Prom  the  nature  of  the  foilj  which  is  in  great 
part  wet,  the  difficulty  in  culture  is  to  Iceep  the  lands  clean  \ 
hence  turnip  crops  alfo,  and  the  winter  feeding  of  cattle,  are 
In  many  places  debarred.  On  account  of  the  diftancc 
from  great  towns,  dung  can  hardly  be  conveyed  thence  \  and 
little  more  of  conrfe  is  ufed,  than  what  is  made  on  each  par- 
ticular farm*  There  is  a  bed  of  (hell  marl  in  a  marlh  ad- 
Joinmg  to  Dundas-hill,  but  it  has  been  little  wrought.  Lime, 
which  tt  in  the  near  neighbourhood,  has  been  applied  to  % 
confiderable  extent.  The  principal  white  crop  raifed,  is 
oats  ;  next  barley  and  wheat*  The  rotation  has  here,  as  in 
fo  many  other  places,  beeh  much  amended  of  late  years,  by 
introducing  green  crops,  and  by  fummer  fallowing }  tuiro  of 
the  mo(|  capital  improvements  in  hufbandry.  Two  horle 
ploughs  qpon  Stpali's  plan,  another  great  improvement,  are 
alio  coming  into  gei^cral  ufe,  Almoft  every  farm  is  enclofed 
and  A^ivided  by  I^cdges,  hedgerows,  and  belts  of  planting* 
The  farmers  here  are  both  induilrious  and  intelligent  \  and, 
indeed,  this  may  l^  faid  now,  of  the  greater  part  of  the  far- 
mers in  the  three  Lothians,  and  in  feveral  other  counties.. 
As  rents,  however,  Icem  to  be  too  high  in  many  places,  it  is 
to  be  hoped,  from  the  great  number  of  well  informed  and 
public  fpirited  gentlemen  in  Scotland,  that  fuch  leafes 
will  be  granted,  not  only  enabling  the  farmers  to  live, 
but  to  live  eafily,  to  make  experiments,  to  run  riiks,  and 
confequently  to  promote  knowledge  and  improvements  in 
liulbmdry*    A  contraiy  coqrfci  would  both  eflentially  en« 

danger 


231  StaHJHeal  Acemmt 

danger  tgricukuret  and  the  population  «rhich  dtfodM  on  fi^ 
We  know  the  happy  ftate  of  the  greater  part  of  Lnglandi 
where  renta  arc  moderate,  and  the  farmers  arc  enjoying  in 
fecurity,  that  pknty  and  comfort,  which  are  the  rewards  of 
their  labours.  Agricukurc  may  be  affirmed  to  be  (wuhuot 
at  all  derogating  from  manufactures  aud  trade)  one  oft  tbe 
010ft  permanent  pill^irs  on  which  any  nation  can  rvft  i  and 
they  would  highly  dcfcrve  the  name  ot  patriots,  who  Ihould 
firetch  forth  a  generous  hand  to  cherilh  huibandmen^  pro- 
mote improvements  beneficial  both  to  the  landlord  Aud  to 
the  tenant,  and  cnfure  the  moft  ftaole  and  virtuous  mccMne 
Which  a  people  can  pofleis. 

Dtpopulation  and  thi  caufe  of  x<.->From  all  accounts  die  p^ 
riih  was  loruicrly  much  more  populous  than  it  is  at  prefcnt. 
According  to  Dr  WcD(ler,  the  numbers  30  or  .^o  years  ago, 
were  1 102  \  but  as  his  furvey  appears  in  this  parifh,  and  per- 
haps  in  moft  others,  to  have  been  confinea  to  txamtnabie  per- 
'ions  onlv,  the  whole  number  of  fouls  was  praDably  then 
1300  or  mure.  In  -776,  tne  number  ot  iouis  was  1034; 
in  the  prcicnt  year  1790,  it  is  only  907.  The  annual  aver* 
age  of  births»  for  a  century  pall,  is  33  s  in  the  former  half  oif 
it  Irom  1 69 1  to  1740,  it  is  39  \  in  the  latter  from  1741  to 
1790,  it  is  only  ^^^  And  the  decline  (needlefs  to  be  dated) 
has  been  gradual ;  from  1771  to  1780  the  number  is  25, 
from  1781  to  1790  it  is  18.  The  depopulation  appears  to 
have  been  occafioned  folely  by  one  large  diftrift  having  been 
turned  from  tillage  into  pafiure.  This  trad  may  conGft  peib 
haps  of  1500  acres,  upon  which  formerly,  it  isfaid,  were 
15  or  16  £wmers  \  at  prcfent,  ano  for  fome  time  pad,  there 
has  not  been  one.  Probably  the  decrcale  of  inhabitants  in 
feverai  other  pariihes  has  beep  owing  very  much  to  a  fiaijlar 
caufc*    The  union  of  bxm  has  often  been  flated  u  a  r^f^fr 

of 


.1^  depopulations  but  the  faft  feems  very  difput^ble.     In 
inaay  inftances  population  has  been  |:nown  to  increafe,  on  a 
great  farmer's  fucceeding  to  a  number  of  fmall  ones.     And 
the  reafon  is  plain  to  thofe  who  make  an  attentive  obferv^* 
t^.     A  fmall  farmer  has  feldom  any  cottagers,  his  men  fer« 
Xants  are,una\arried,  apd  lodge  in  his  houfe  or  offices.    The 
revcrfe  is  the  cafe  of  a  great  farmer ;   almoft  the  whole  of 
his  men  fervants  have  feparate  houfes,  are  married,  and  have 
a  numerous  and  healthy  progeny.     The  number  of  farmer« 
£imiues  is  Indeed  greater  in  fmalLfarmSi  but  the  whole  po- 
pulation dppeafs  In  Several  inftances^  at  leaft,  to  be  lefs.    ^ut 
even  admitting  it  to  be  greater  in  general,  the  huibandry  is 
fpr  thempft^rtbadypuny  cr^ps  are  railed,  men  may  be  more 
smmerous,  but  bo0i  men  and  beads  are  ^Imoft  in  a  ftarving 
condition.     The  recent  and  excellent  pra£lice  of  uGnjg  two 
horfe  ploughs,  has  alfo  been  ftated  as  a  caufe  of  depopula- 
tion,  as  it  reduces  the  number  of  hands  neceflary  to  be  em«  ' 
ployed  I  but  beiides  the  expence  of  culture  being  thereby 
lefTened,  and  the  value  of  land  confequently  raifed,  it  may 
be  obferved,  that  were, wade  lands  cidtivated,  and  the  cii!« 
ture  of  others  carried  to  the  extent,  and  to  the  perfeAioo 
which  it  ought,  and  which  it  is  to  be  hoped,  will  one  day  be 
the  cafe,  the  numbers  of  thofe  who  fubfift  by  huibandry« 
yrou\d  become  greater  than  they  have  ever  yet  been.    At 
any  rate,  population  is  fariirom  depending  folely  upon  agri« 
culture. 

Wages  and  Expence  ef  iUvinf^ — ^The  >w^es  of  a  day^^^* 
bourer  are  now  generally  is.,  of  a  carpenter  is.  6d.,  of  .a 
mafon  1  s.  8d.,  of  a  maid-fervant  25  s.  the  half  year,  of  a 
ploughman  between  L.  12  and  L.  13  annually,  nearly  one 
half  of  which  is  paid  in  money,  and  the  otlier  in  oat-meal. 
.]^des  which,  ploughmen  have  generally  afreehoufe,  a  lil« 


^34  $tatijlieal  Acccmtt 

tie  gardenj  carriage  of  coals  and  their  viOnab  in  I^rreft.  A 
day-labourer  earns  between  L.  14  and  L.  15  yearly;  bat 
from  this  the  rent  of  his  houfe  and  gardeOi  which  is  ordina* 
rily  about  15  s,  is  to  be  deduced.  Their  wives  are  occafion- 
ftlly  employed  by  the  farmers  on  the  fields ;  at  other  times, 
befides  earning  fomething  by  fpinning,  wafhing,  &c.  they 
frequently  nurfe  children  which  turns  to  great  emolument. 
Their  children  are  alfo  at  times  employed  by  the  farmers. 
In  harveft  the  wages  given  to  the  Highlanders  who  come  \f\ 
great  numbers  to  cut  down  the  crop  of  moft  part  of  Scot- 
lands  arc  perhaps  at  an  average,  about  8  d.  a  day,  with  their 
visuals.  The  eJipence  of  living  among  the  common  people, 
is  at  leafty  no  greater  in  general,  than  their  incomes.  How- 
ever  numerous  their  families  may  be,  they  feldom  receive, 
nor  need  any  aid  from  the  poor's  funds.  Their  food  confifts 
of  oat-n^eal  porridge,  oat-cakes  and  peare-)>anoocks,  barley- 
broth,  with  greens^  potatoes,  butter- milk  and  water.  Some 
begin  now  to  ufe  wheaten  bread  and  fmall-beer,  but  feldon) 
any  eat  butcher  meat.  The  luxuries  in  which  they  indulge, 
are  tea,  and  what  is  worfe,  whifk^.  Scarcely  any  fail  to  put 
^heir  children  to  fchool  to  learn  ^nglilh,  writing,  and  arith- 
metic. In  general,  fervants,  labourers,  and  tradefmen,  live 
worfe,  and  perform  left  labour  than  in  England.  But  while 
thofe  of  the  fan^e  clafs  in  England  have  better  food  and 
fnore  of  it,  it  appears  that  in  faA,  they  daily  eat  up  their  all  j 
tmd  hence  Vfhen  thc|r  families  are  ^ny-wife  numerous,  re- 
courfe  muil  be  had  to  the  parifh  money.  On  the  contrary, 
In  Scotland,  many  half  ftarve  themfelves,  in  order  to  make 
iaving$  I  not  a  £ew  lay  by  feveral  pounds  Sterling,  which 
they  referve  for  old  age, '  for  putting  their  children  to  ap- 
prenticeibips,  or  for  otherwife  bettering  their  own  conditio, 
<or  that  of  their  families^  A  fpirit  for  enterpriie  and  for  rii^ 
in^;  in  the  world,  chara{lerifes  the  Scots  in  generals  and  this 


has  (6  remarkably  pervaded  all  ranks  for  thefe  40  or  50 
years  paft|  that  perhaps  no  people  have  in  fo  (hort  a  period^ 
xnade  fo  great  advances  in  induftry,  agriculture,  manufac« 
tures,  refinement,  public  revenue^  and  private  wealth,  as  the 
people  of  Scotland. 

PfliT.— The  funds  confift  of  the  rent  of  poors-lands,  in- 
tereft  of  poors- money,  weekly  colleflions,  dues  of.  mort- 
cloths,  &c*  and  the  hire  of  a  hearfe  which  was  given  to 
^he  parilh  by  the  family  of  Dundas.  The  annual  income 
from  thefe  funds,  at  an  average  for  thefe  ten  years  pafty  is 
about  L.4X,  and  the  number  of  the  ordinary  poor,  a« 
bout  35^ 

&A00/.— -Eoglifh  and  writing  are  taught  at  is.  6d.  the 
quarter :  Arithmetic,  Latin,  and  French,  at  2  s.  6  d.  llic 
fchodmafter's  falary,  which  conCfts  both  of  the  parifh  falary 
and  of  the  intereft  of  a  mortification  of  L.  300,  amounts  to 
about  L.  25  yearly,  including  the  emoluments  of  the  felHon« 
derklhip.  The  number  of  fchdars  within  the  pariih  is 
from  30  to  40 }  of  boarders  firom  20  to  30,  at  20  guineas^ 


Churchy  (5V. — ^The  pari(h  church,  from  the  ftyle  of  its 
architecture,  which  is  Saxon,  or  a  mixed  fpecies  between  the 
Greek  and  Gothic,  feems  to  be  7  or  8  hundred  years  old. 
It  is  a  very  elegant  fmall  fabric,  all  of  cut  ftone,  84  feet  long 
by  25  broad,  but  the  breadth  diminifhes  towards  the  tri- 
bunci  or  rounded  eaft  end.  The  great  door  and  windows 
have  femicircular  pediments  ornamented  with  many  mould- 
ings, and  fnpported  on  the  fides  by  finglc  round  columns^ 
without  any  diminution.  The  windows  have  a  very  elegant 
iireciao  appearance,  and  were  it  not  for  the  Gothic  capl- 

tab 


a^6  Statijlical  Accinmt 

tals  of  the  columns,  and  the  {hafts  being  too  thicl^  fer  t^elr 
licjghth,  the  whole  might  be  taken  for  Greek  archite£hirc. 
But  the  chief  beautj  of  this  church  b  in  the  infide,  which 
ffrikes  every  fpeAator  when  entering  from  the  weft.     About 
one  half  of  the  church  on  the  eaft  end  is  covered  with  vauiN 
ed  roofsi  commencing  with  a  brgc  iemicircular  arch»  and  di- 
vided nearly  into  two  eqUal  parU,  By  a  fmaller  arch  fiirthcr 
eaft^    T^hc  arches  are  richly  adorned  with-  fucceffivc  tFrcs  of 
mouidingSi  chiefly  in  a  (Tarry  (Hape :'    The  fmall  one  has  a 
very  elegant  enrichment  introduced  into  illy  conCftxng  of  a 
flehder  reed  ftrung  at  dift'ahces  with  little  cylinders.    The 
ehurch  of  Warthwick  in  England)  near  Carlifle,  and  which 
was  built  before  the  times  of  William  the  Conqueror,  ha^  a 
flriking  refemblance  to  this  at  Dalmeny,  but  is  far  inferior  in' 
j^int  of  embelliihnienr.   The  manfe  was  built  in  1777.   The 
iiipend  was  augmented  the  fame  year,  and  coniifts  of  5  biolls  of 
wheat;  33  bolls  3  peclcs  i  Iippie  barley;  9  bolls  i  peck  t  It|i- 
pie  meaU  idT bolls  otits;  and  L.  54 :  17 :  i\\  Stcrfmg,  amount- 
ing in  whole,  this  prefent  year,  to  about  L.  109  Sterbng,  the 
price  of  wheat  being  between  23^  and"  24  s.  i-  ofbarley  between 
1 7  and  18s.;  of  meal  between  16  and*  17s.;  and  of  oats  Be- 
tween 14  and  I ;  s.  the  boll.    The  glebe  is  between  5  and^6 
acres  of  good  foil.    The  laft  prefentation  was  given  by  the 
£arl  of  Rofcbery ;  again((  which  the  lat'e  Harfof  Hopetoun 
protefled,  as  Vice-Patron,  But  waved  his  claiai  k>  the  excN 
cifc  of  that  right  till  the  next  vacancy. 

Minerals,^- k  coal  pit  Eas  6'ecn  recently  funk  oh  thfe  Earl 
of  Hopetoun's  lands  of  Auldcathy ;  but  the  fuccefs  of  the  trial 
is  not  yet  known.  Appearances  of  coal  have  alfo  lately  been 
obfervcd  on  Mr  Dundas's  eftate  of  Newhalls.  There  is  whin- 
Aone  rc;ck>  and  alfo  abundance  of  that  fpecles  of  grey  granite 

olltd 


4f  Dalmeny.  ^yp 

tiXied  moor-Jfom  *,  of  which  the  many  Excellent  roads  in  tfaif 
pari(h  are  made.  There  may  be  mentioned  a  finguiar  bafal* 
tic  rock  upon  the  fouth  fide  of  Dundas-hill»  250  yards  long^ 
and  generally  about  60  or  70  feet  high^  This-  rock  is  aknoft 
perpendicular  in  its  front,  and  eonfifts  6f  light  Uueiih  granitCf 
of  a  yeiy  clofe  and  fite  texture :  The  mafles  are  in  an  irre* 
gular  columnar  ftate,  feparated  by  channels  or  furrows ;  bus 
many  well  defined  reguhr  prifms  are  to  be  obitpved^  At  tho 
fbot  of  the  fteep^y  and  almofir  perpendicular  bank  on  which 
this  reck  lie^  is  a  morafs  of  about  9  acres  of  fliell  raarL  Bue 
what  is  chtcfiy  remarkable  and  valuable  as  a  mineral  in  this 
pari(h|  is  the  vaft  bed  of  free-fione  upon  the  iea^coft^  A 
quarry  of  this  excellent  fioae  has  been  wrought  ta  the  cx^ 
tent  of  }•  acres*,  a  little  to  the  weft  of  the  borough  of  QueenC* 
ferry  \  aad,>  befides  fupplying  the  demands  of  the  neighbour- 
hood,  great  ^antities  of  it  were  privately  exported  for  builds 
log  the  fortifications  and  quay  of  Dunkirk.  All  the  fine 
ftooe  carvings  of  Earl  Fife's  elegant  houfe  at  B^nff  were  exe-' 
cutcd  here  upon  the  fpot,  and  fent  thither  in  cafes  by  fea.  A 
large  bapttfmal  font,  5  feet  in  diameter,,  intended  for  the  Con^ 
riocDt,  with  its  bottom  uppermoft,  and  covered  with  Tea- weed 
and  {hell  fifh,  lies  oppodte  M>  this  quarry  a  good  way  within' 
riie  ica  mark  >  and  which  the  antiqii^^  n^ight  fancy  to  bd 
one  of  the  remains  of  fome  Poppifh  church  once  ftanding 
there,  that  had  been  overwhelmed  by  the  fea.  Grindftones 
are  nnanufafhired  at  this  quarry,  and.  annually  exported  to  the 
countries  on  the  Baltic.  It  is  iaid,  that  here,  and  clfewhere 
on  the  coaft  in  this  parifh>  there  is  fuch  a  quantity  of  firee- 
fione^  that  fcarccly  any  demand  could  exhauft  it^ 

Antiquities^ 


^  iVl&in-ftone,  or  porphyry  (called  toad-fionc,  rag-done,  &c* 
in  England)  differs  from  moor* (lone  in  this,  that  the  former 
coataias  iron»  and  aUb  fome  lime. 


#3S  Statf/lical  Jcamt 

Afitiqutiui.-^j.  About  z  mile  to  the  weft  of  Barnboogk 
Caftlc,  on  the  top  of  a  high  lea  bank,  is  aa  ancient  cairn, 
called  bj  the  coantrjr  people  the  Ear/  Cainifi  of  a  circulac 
ihape.  500  feet  in  circumference,  and  24  high  in  the  middlei 
fatfed  perhaps  for  the  purpofe  of  a  fepolcbral  monomeat. 
The  ftones  are  all  fmalli  cpnHftiog  of  gnmite,  whin-ftooe, 
<|uartZt  iron-ftone,  and  lime-ftone»  and  appear  to  have  been 
cirried  to  it  bj  the  hand  from  the  neighbooring  grounds.  A 
portion  onlj  of  the  cairn  now  remains  $  the  greater  part  of 
the  ftones  having  been  taken  away.  2.  In  thit  part  of  the 
parilh  which  lies  at  the  weft  end  of  Queensferry,  dofe  bf  the 
Ihore,  are  the  remains  of  a  monaftery,  founded  about  the 
1330  by  one  of  the  lairds  of  Dundas,  for  Carmelite  Frian- 
The  church,  a  fmall  building  in  a  very  plain  Gothic  fiyle,  is 
fiiU  nearly  entire.  3.  Near  a  mile  to  the  weft  of  this,  upon 
a  high  Tea  bank,  where  a  £arm  houfe  now  ftands,  there  were, 
about  40  or  50  years  fince,  conGJerable  ruins  of  probably  an 
old  Kom2n /peculatorium^  conGfting  of  a  large  carved  window, 
a  fquare  pillar^  and  a  very  confiderable  quantity  of  hevn 
ftones,  which,  it  is  faid,  were  carried  to  Dunkirk.  There 
were  found  feveral  filver  medals  of  Marcus  Antoninus,  with 
a  Vtflorj  on  the  reverfe }  alfo,  the  carved  handle  of  a  copper 
vefleli  and  the  bottom  of  an  earthen  urnj  with  the  word  d» 
jeHi  s  the  reft  obliterated. 

Antiitit  Families^  and  Emimnt  Mm. — i.  The  family  of 
Dundas  of  Dundas,  from  which  that  of  Amifton,  and  othen, 
are  derived,  has  been  traced  by  genealogifts  *  back  to  the 
Saxon  Kings  of  England ;  and  that  £imily  has  uninterrupted- 
ly enjoyed  a  great  eftate  in  this  parifli,  in  the  male  line,  for  near 
700  years.  The  prefent  proprietor  is  the  24th  in  defcent  from 

the 

f  Sir  James  Dalrym^Ie,  Crawford,  Niibet,  fte. 


tfDabnenyi  f3y 

the  £t4  laird  of  Dondas ;  and  has  in  Us  poflcffiou  one  of  the- 
oldeft  original  writings  in  Scotland,  being  a  charter  granted, 
aboux  the  year  1 1 20.    The  (lately  caftle  of  the  family,  erec- 
ted on  a  loafty  fituation,  (till  remains,  but  is  uninhabited.  2. 
The  Craigies  of  Craigy  were  another  antient  and  confiderabl^ 
family ;  one  of  them  being  a  witneft  to  Dandas-s  charter  juft 
mentioned.    After  fome  generations  they  terminated  in  an 
beirefs,  who,  in  13871  married  Si^  John  Stewart,  who  thence 
topk  the  titjie  of  Craigtehall,  wh^e  their  pofterity  continued 
till  about  1640,  when  the  eftate  of  Craigiehall  was  ibid  j  but 
the  fiunily  ftill  continue  refpeflable  in  the  pariih.    3.  Th^ 
Mowbrays  of  Bambougle  have  lil^et^ife  a  claim  to  high  anti* 
quity;  the  name  of  Philip  Mowbray  of  Bambougle  occurring 
about  I  %(^o.    In  that  pame  (of  which  were  feveral  Dukes  of 
Norfolk,  Earls  of  Nottingham,  &c.)  the  eftate  remained  till 
the  1 620,  when  Sir  Robert  Mowbray  fold  it  \  whofe  repre* 
fentative,  it  is  faid,  is  ftill  in  the  pariih,  b(|t  reduced  to  th^ 
condition  pf  a  common  (crvant.    BarnboQgle  Caille  ftill  re* 
mains,  aod  is  inhabited,  but  is  no  ways  remarkable,  except  for 
its  fancifu^  iituation  within  the  Tea  n^arlp,  and  for  its  embra- 
sures prcfcnting  a  ftrong  front  to  the  fca.    4.  The  late  Wil- 
liam Wilkie,  D.  D.  bom  in  the  village  of  Echlin  In  this  pariih, 
Oft.  5*  1721,  and  educatecf  at  tl^e  fchool  of  Dalmcny.    After 
revolving  the  hiftory  of  antient  ^imilles  hi  this  and  other  pa- 
riflies,  many  of  whicl^  have  £illen  into  decline,  and  may  per- 
haps pafs  into  oblivion,  it  may  be  obferved,  that  the  memo- 
ry of  a  man  of  genius  9nd  learning  is  lefs  fubjeft  to  periih. 
The  Epigo9jpad  will  probably  be  always  admired*    Without 
fpeaking  of  the  happy  choice  of  the  fubje^t,  and  of  the  meri( 
pf  many  of  the  charaAers  In  that  Epic  poem,  it  may  be 
enough  to  fay,  that  the  epifode  of  Hercules,  taken  by  itielf» 
IS  fttffieient  to  entitle  the  poet  to  perpetual  fiune.   Dr  Wtlkie 
Fas  diftinguUhed  for  9  fingular  compai^  of  knowledge,  and 

cUcfl/ 


€A9 


Statykcd  Acemd 


lAit&f  tot  an  originality  of  genius.  In  his  yooth  he  c«ilt^ 
stated  a  fmall  farm,  and  ftruggled  long  and  hard  with  penu« 
fy.  He  was  afterwards  minifter  of  Ratho ;  and  laftly  profet 
fat  of  Natural  Phnofophy  in  the  Univerfitj  of  St  Andrews^ 
where  he  died  in  17731  ^  ^''^  5^'  7^^^ 

Ptputaiion  Taik  for  1790* 


Souls 

- 

907 

I  family  confifts  of 

^9 

Families 

m 

218 

2        -       -        of 

2a 

Males 

« 

429 

Pemales 

•■ 

. 

478 

refide 

3 

Aged  below 

10 

- 

304 

Lefier  heriton 

3 

^—  hetween  10  and  20 

172 

17 

•  ^Q 

and  50 
and  70 

347 
*4i 

43 

1 

.  Clergy  ^EftafaUOied) 
<3erg7(S«ceden) 
Schoolmaften             « 

I 

J 

-50 

>   0tf\ 

2 

34  &milie$  coniift  of 

Attornies 

J 

40 

• 

of 

■2 

Surgeons 

.    * 

3tS        . 

m 

of 

3 

^^ 

30 

* 

of 

4 

Small  ditto 

to 

34        - 

• 

of 

5 

Bakers 

2 

11 

. 

of 

6 

Millers  ♦          -         • 

1 

10 

«• 

of 

7 

I 

MO 

- 

of 

8 

Smiths 

4 

a 

- 

of 

9 

Carpenters,  fcc. 

to 

4 

m 

6! 

ao 

Mafons 

9 

^ 

• 

of 

II 

Taylors 

I 

I 

- 

of 

14 

Shoemakers 

5 

I 

- 

of 

«7 

Weavers 

^ 

Gardencxa 


*  There  is  a  flonr  mill,  a  barley  mili«  and  an  oat-meal  mill 
f  at  Cramond-bridge,  at  the  lad  of  which  abopt  ippo  ^is  o^ 
;<{ati  are  annually  inille^  *  ,      •      «  > 


gf  t>almewf. 


(?4l 


Gardeners           - 

16 

Shepherd!            s 

5 

Slaters  and  glaziers 

I 

Houfe  (ervants 

78 

Overieers 

i 

Miller  ferttnts        «* 

4 

MidwiVe^ 

I 

Seamen 

IZ 

CarterS|  &c«          • 

7 

Widows 

5« 

Horre-letters 

1 

Widowers 

17 

Ino-keepers 

I 

Seceders 

14a 

Small  ale-hoafes 

t 

Re&ding  in  6  large  ^U 

Chaife  drivers 

6 

lagcs 

530 

Plowmen^  &c. 

^6 

Refidiiig  in  5  foiaU  viU 

Day-labourers^  &c; 

39 

lages 

123 

Work  horfcs 

150 

Bakeweirs  breed 

400 

l^f ak  cows 

130 

Dorfetihire  flieep 

10 

Black  cattle,  yoong 

Ab/ffinian  ditto  ^ 

St 

cows  and  horfes 

800 

Deer 

30 

Scotch  fheep 

ao2o 

In  the  pari(h  are  2  coaches,  3  four-wheeled  chaifcs,  and 
3  ditto  belonging  to  the  Inn  at  Newhalls.  There  are  more 
ploughs,  carts,  and  other  implements  of  huibandry,  than  are 
uTually  employed  by  the  farmers. 


*  Thefe  are  part  of  a  lattie  flock  brouffht  here  by  George 
Dnndas,  Efqj  of  Dundas,  Captain  of  the  Winterton  £a(l  India* 
man ;  the  reft  died  on  their  paflage  home.  Their  fleece  is  hairy 
like  goau$  but  next  the  Ikin,  is  a  rcry  fine  foft  down. 


Vol.  I. 


Hh 


NUM- 


94^  Stati/iical  AcCmtd 

NUMBER     XXIX. 

PARISH  OF  SORBIE; 

By  tbi  liev.  Dr  Isaac  Davidson. 


Situation f  Sot/,  isfc. 

r  I  i  H  E  parilh  of  Sorbic,  in  tKc  (hire  and  prefbytery  of 
JL  Wigton,  and  fynod  of  Galloway,  is  bounded  by  Wig* 
ton  Bay  and  Solway  Firth  on  the  caft  i  by  the  parilh  ef 
Wbitehorn  on  the  fouth )  by  the  fame  parifli  and  that  ef 
Glaflerton  on  the  weft  i  and  by  Kirkinner  on  the  north. 

From  the  fouth,  where  it  joins  Whitehonii  I't  ftretchcs  £x 
miles  northward  tp  Kirkinner  ;  and  from  the  eafl,  on  Wigtoa 
Bay,  it  runs  as  far  to  the  Weft,  where  it  unites  with  the  priih 
of  Glaflcrton.  This  is  its  broadeft  part.  From  Garlteftown 
^Bay  on  the  ea(T,  to  tlie  neareft  part  of  Whitehorn  parifli  due 
weft,  is  about  a  mile  and  a  furlong.  TEis  is  hs  nakroweft 
part. 

Veffels  fail  from  Garlieftown  to  Whitehaven  Jh  four 
hours,  to  the  Iflc  of  Man  in  three,  to  Liverpool  in  twenty* 
four,  to  Dublin  in  twenty-four^  and  to  Port  Greenock  in 
thirty. 

The^face  of  the  country  itbctutiful,  being  variegated  with 
little  hills  and  fertile  plains.  In  their  feafons,  the  nchcft 
herbage,  and  the  moft  luxuriant  crops  of  grain,  every  where 
appear.  Through  the  whole  year,  there  is  a  dclightrui  ver- 
dure,  IclTcned,  but  fcldom  altogether  deftroyed^  cither  bj 

fi-cU 


vf  Sorbie*  34^ 

fi^ft  or  fnow.  la  the  year  17759  when  the  who]e  iijand  of 
Qreat  Briuin  was  almoft  buried  in  fnow,  this  parilh  prefent. 
cd  the  eye  with  its  fayourite  colour ;  and  green  fields  and 
happy  flocks  were  pleafing  objedts  to  the  trayeUcr,  and  enriched 
their  owners.  Ihe  foil  is  not  deep,  butexceeaing  fine,  yield- 
ing an  increafe  equal  to  Hertfbrdfhine. 

To  the  care  and  fuperlor  (kill  of  the  prefent  E^rl  of  Gal- 
4oway,  the  fertility  and  beauty  of  this  pariih  are  in  a  great 
sneafure  to  be  a(cribed.  His  Lordfhip  }ives  in  it  fcveral 
months  ev^ry  year,  and  has  fhewn  much  attention  to  agricuU 
fuTC,  breeding  of  cattle,  and  planting.  When  he  came  to  the 
{xjflcffion  of  his  anticnt  and  extcnfive  family  eRate  in  the  year 
1765,  this  parifli,  like  the  country  in  genera!,  was  almost  in 
a  ftate  of  nature.  There  were  few  inclofures;  the  roads 
were  narrow  and  unformed  ;  and  fcarce  a  tree  appeared  to 
pleafe  the  eye.  Things  are  now  totally  different.  The  fields 
are  all  inclofed,  and  well  cultivated.  The  roads  are  of  the 
proper  breadth,  well  formed,  and  made  of  good  materials  ;* 
axid  plantations  every  where  prefent  themfelves. 

Galloway  Hogfe  was  built  by  the  late  Earl,  and  forms  part 
of  a  landfcape  truly  beautiful  and  grand.  Garliefiown  Bay  is 
on  the  aortb ;  and  Rigg»  or  Hunter's  Bay,  is  on  the  fouth  of 
it.  From  its  windows  are  ieen  the  richeli  fields ;  an  indent- 
€d  coaft,  adorned  with  growing  improvements  ;  a  cluftcr  ot 
iiles,  and.tli£  lofty  mountains  of  Cumberland  and  Man, appear- 
ing at  a  proper  didance.  The  prefent  Earl  has  made  great 
additions  and  improvements.  The  principal  rooms  are  fpa- 
«ious,  and  the  library  i^  iltored  with  uiany  thouf^nd  valuable 
<volumet. 

Lord  Galloway's  managetrent  of  his  eftate  deferves  parti- 
cular notice.  The  lands  about  Galloway  Houfe  are  well 
^divided,  and  the  fields  are  completely  fheltered  by  the  plan- 
44tM)pS|  jrhifh  produces  many  advantages.    The  grafs  fprln^ 

early  J 


^44  Btatifiieal  Account 

early  \  and  the  cattle,  defended  from  the  ftorm,  feed  at  their 
cafe.  The  belts  of  planting,  being  carried  along  the  ridges 
of  the  hills,  improve  the  appearance  of  the  coantry,  and  gire 
warmth  to  all  below  them. 

The  Earl  has  ftudied  the  nature  of  foreft  trees,  and  the 
different  ways  of  raifing  and  treating  them,  with  much  atten- 
tion. Under  his  care  trees  grow  on  every  expofure  %  and  c« 
very  fpecies  of  them  thrive  as  well  about  Galloway  Houfe  as 
in  any  part  of  England*  The  pine*a(ler,  or  maritime  pinei 
is  of  fo  much  ufe  here,  and  indeed  in  fuch  places  as  are 
much  expofed,  as  to  deferve  the  greateft  attention.  It  is 
hardy,  and  makes  vigorous  (hoots,  almoft  on  the  fea-beach  \ 
and  is  an  excellent  defence  for  other  trees.  The  proper  me- 
thod  of  raifing  this  moil  uiefiil  plant  in  the  nurfery  infures 
its  fuccefs.  The  feed  ought  to  be  fown  on  rich  ground,  ia 
the  month  of  March.  Sixteen  months  afterward,  the  plant 
ought  to  be  taicen  up  in  moift  weather  |  Its  tap  root  (faorten- 
ed,  ard  the  young  tree  planted  in  a  rich  ground  well  pulve- 
rized.  It  muft  be  watered  for  ten  or  twelve  days,  till  die 
new  roots  begin  to  ftrike.  Thus  tranfplanted,  it  muft  ftand 
for  eighteen  or  twenty. four  months,  and  then  planted  oot 
on  any  expofure.  Tranfplanting  and  cutting  them,  a| 
above  defer ibed,  make  them  put  out  many  lateral  roots, 
which  find  food  for  the  plant,  and  give  it  firmnefsinits 
flation.  Whereas,  if  it  is  {permitted  to  remain  two  years  in 
the  feed-bed,  it  puts  down  only  one  root,  and  is  incapable  of 
refifting  the  ftorm.  Gentlemen,  therefore,  who  plant  near 
the  Oiore,  ought  to  give  the  maritime  pine  as  much  foil  as 
poflible,  and  raife  a  defence  for  it  in  its  infant  fiate.  lu 
fiiturs  fervice  to  them,  and  their  pofterity,  will  amply  rqnj 
^eir  care  and  expence. 

The  Scotch  fir  is  of  great  ule  when  planted  on  the  Iboth- 
weft  of  other  treeS|  by  de^nding  thpm  from  oox  great' 

' ^  oft 


fA  Vid  moft  frequent  ftonm.  While  fpeakiog  of  firs,  it  majr 
be  proper  to  obierve,  tlut  refioous  plants  have  t^ro  feafons» 
of  growth  I  the  &r&  ia  the  fpring,  and  the  Tecona  after  the 
early  harveft  rains.  Early  planting  is  confequently  advanta«. 
geou9»  All  trees  planted  here  before  new  year's  day  thriv^ 
beft,  excepting  fuch  as  are  intended  for  wet  ground,  which 
oaght  to  be  {da&ted  in  the  month  of  March*  The  oak,  aih| 
beech,  alder,  firs  %  &c,  thrive  here,  and  are  equal  to  any  iz^ 
^heir  quality.  Lord  Galloway  has  found  that  pruning  makeai 
them  grow  with  great  vigour.  By  eiporimenl  it  aj^pears,  that* 
plants  which  were  pruned,  advanced,  at  the  rate  of  four  year» 
in  fix,  before  thofe  which  were  not  pruned.  This  treatment 
heft  fuits  trees  which  have  been  taken  from  the  nurfcry,  an4 
Ihottld  be  attended  to  in  the  winter  of  the  (econd  or  third 
year  after  they  have  been  planted  out*  In  the  plantations  of 
a  circomlierence  of  fiscteen  miles,  trees  of  every  kind  grofv 
with  the  greate(l  luxuriance ;  and  fome  of  them  have  rifen^ 
in  a  few  years,  to  the  height  of  fifty  feet.  His  Lordlhip's  de- 
figns  are  great  i  and  he  is  accomplKhIng  them,  by  planting 
at  the  rate  of  200,000  trees  every  year. 

LaleSf  tsfc. — ^Therc  Is  a  very  fine  fi*cfh  water  lake  on  the 
nonh*weft  border  of  the  pariih,  above  three  miles  in  circum- 
ference, well  ftored  with  perch,  pike,  and  eels.  It  is  called 
Dowalton  Lake,  becaufe  a  great  family  of  the  name  of 
M«Dowal  were  proprietors  of  it,  and  their  place  of  refidence 
or  town  was  near  it.  The  lake  furrounds  the  remains  of  ^^ 
honfe  and  garden.  The  houfe,  it  is  fuppofed,  was  fortified^, 
and  afforded  a  fafe  retreat  to  its  Lords,  when  feudal  and  al- 
lodial rights  produced  difcord  and  war.  The  fi(h  in  it  arc 
never  caught  for  fale.  From  this  lake  a  rivulet  flows,  through 

a  rich  valley,  to  Garlieftown  Bay. 

Sea 

*  The  lariz,  or  larch,  is  found  here  to  be  of  quick  growth. 
Its  timber  is  cxcellent|  lafts  long  under  water,  and  refills  th^ 
ijTorxn. 


i4j^  Statiftical  Acemnl 

Sea  Cea/l,  Fi/B,  Ttdist  isTc^Thtre  arc  npvrafds  of  tm^vt 
miles  of  fea-coaft,  including  the  bays.  The  fliore  is  rathev 
bold  to  the  fouthi  but  becooies  flat  at  Rigg  or  Hunter^s  Bay  % 
and  continues  fo  to  Garlieftown,  where  it  rifes  again.  On 
the  whole,  it  may  be  called  a  rocky  (hore,  though  in  Garliei^ 
town  Bay  there  is  a  deep,  fok  day,  on  which  vcflels  lie  in  the 
greateft  fafetyi  and  have  the  bcft  anchorage.  Floundersy 
ibles,  ikate,  cod,  crabs,  lobfters,  oyi^ers,  with  many  other 
kinds  of  fifli,  abound  on  the  coaft.  Herrings  were  found  fomc 
time  ago  in  vaft  ihoals  \  apd  there  is  reafpn  to  believe  that 
they  ftill  vifit  this  (hore.  Some  years  ago  they  were  caught 
with  great  fuccefs  $  and  it  appears  from  a  minute  of  kirk- 
feffion,  dated  September  i.  1700,  that^  the  inhabitants  were 
ib  anxious  In  the  purfiiit  of  them  as  to  be  difficultly  reftrain- 
ed  from  fiihing  on  the  Lord's  day.  The  people  are' now  fully 
engaged  in  agriculture  :  Fiihing  is  nearly  neglo&ed,  and 
*  the  fiihing  boats  on  the  coaft  are  very  few.  The  iea»animals 
are  the  fame  with  thofe  on  the  eaftern  coaft  of  Great  Briuin. 
The  fea-wceds  are  of  the  common  kind.  A  few  tons  ai  kelp 
are  made  from  them  every  two  or  three  years.  Some  are 
fpread  upon  the  land,  without  any  preparation  i  but  the 
beft  farmers  ufe  them  in  compofts,  which  produce  a  quick 
^nJ  ftrong  fermentation.  The  courfes  of  the  tides  are  as 
follow.  The  tide  flows  ftraight  out  from  Wigton  Bay  fix 
hours,  and  takes  the  fame  time  to  return.  At  Garlieftown, 
the  tide  flows  five  hours  from  the  fouth,  and  ebbs  fevcn.  It 
is  high  water  at  Garlieftown  at  a  quartier  of  an  hour  before 
eleven  o'clock  A.  M.  at  the  change  and  full  of  the  moon. 
There  are  no  light  houfes,  beacons,  or  artificial  land- marks, 
on  the  coaft}  but  there  are  feveral  places  where  light- 
^oufes  n^ight  be  ereAed  with  great  advantage  to  navigation. 

The  head-lands  are  Crugleton  and  Eagcrneis }  and  the 

principal 


efSorbie.      '  Ij^f 

fM^ocipal  bays  are  thofe  of  Garlieftown  ;  Rigg,  now  called 
Hancet's  Baji  in  compiliinent  to  Captain  Hunter  of  the  na^ 
j  ^ry,  who  came  to  an  anchor  in  It,  with  Lord  Gaflies  on  board  ; 
mid  Ports  Allan^  Whaple,  and  Innerwell.  Many  other  fmaU- 
er  bays  indent  the  coaft  in  a  moft  beautiful  manner,  where 
veflebi  loaded  ii^ith  lime  and  fea-fliells,  deliver  their  cargoes. 

Garlieflown  is  i^ell  fituated  for  a  harbour,  not  onl^  to 
ierve  its  own  neighbourhood,  but  all  the  trade  of  the  weft 
of  £ngland^  from  Liverpool  to  Carliilc  \  that  of  the  weft  of 
Scotland  to  Wales  and  England ;  and  that  of  Irehnd  and 
Man.  But  no  traide  would  profit  fo  much  by  it  as  that  large 
and  important  one  from  Whitehaven  to  Dublin.  This  great 
trade^  to  which  one  tide  is  of  vaft  confcquence,  is  confi- 
derably  retarded  by  the  fouth,-  (outh-weft,  and  weft  winds^ 
which  are  more  frequent  there  than  any  other.  Were  there 
a  good  harbour  at  Garlieftown,  the  fhips  bound  from  White- 
haven to  Dublin  might  come  over  to  it  with  fouth  and  foutb- 
wcft  windsj  and  deliver  their  cargoes  much  fooner  than  xhtj 
do  at  prefent.  To  this  defirable  end  the  tides  are  particu- 
larly favourable. 

Cattle^  Woolt  (s'r.— The  black  cattle  of  this  pari(h  and 
neighbourhood  are  of  the  beft  quality.  Lord  Galloway  thinks 
he  has  improved  the  fize  and  fhape  of  the  original  breed,  by 
introducing  Weftmorland  bulls.  His  Lordfliip  gave  neW 
life  to  a  fpirit  of  emulation  among  the  breeders,  by  a  pre* 
niium  of  a  very  handlome  fiiver  cup,  which  he  beftowed  eve-^ 
ry  year  on  the  perfon  who  produced  the  bcft  four  year  old 
ex  or  cow.  With  rcfpeft  to  G;illoway  cattle  in  gene- 
ral, thofe  in  the  muirs  differ  only  from  thoTe  in  the  improved 
part  of  the  country  in  their  fizc  Th::  laft  defcriptiun  of  cat- 
tle weigh  when  fat  5O1  the  firft  aUout  49  ftone;   Moft  of  the 

.  cattle 


i^49  Statiflkal  AcmM 

tattle  are  without  horns,  and  are  prefeifcd  to  fnch  as  ha^ 
them  I  becaufe  they  are  fuppofed  to  be  deeper  in  the  fiore 
^uartefi  are  in  lefs  danger  of  being  gored  by  each  other,  and 
are  more  compaft  in  their  (hape*  The  prevailing  colours  are 
black  and  brown  \  white  is  not  efteemed.  Thej  are  even  in 
the  back,  fquare  and  deep  in  the  rib,  and  ihort  in  the  leg  i 
^nd  fo  healthy,  that  they  fatten  foonet  than  any  other.  They 
coil  in  the  country,  when 

One  year  old  -  -  -  L.  a  lo    e 

Two  years  old  -  -  -  5  lo    o 

Three  ditto  -  -  •  -  700 

Four  ditto  -  -  -  -  880 

They  ufed  to  be  fent  to  the  Englifh  markets  when  four 
ye^  old;  but  now  too  many  of  them  are  fent  Iboner. 
This  county  fends  many  thoufandt  to  thefe  markets  ^ery 
year  \  and  this  pari(h  breeds  annually  between  five  and  fix 
hundred.  They  arc  about  twenty-eight  days  in  travcUiog  to 
the  Norfolk  markets,  and  coft  about  18  s.  per  head  driving 
^d  feeding.  When  they  have  finiflied  theirjoumey,  it  is 
fuppofed  they  have  loft,  through  fatigue,  above  one-eight  of 
their  weight.  To  this  add  the  lofles  occafioned  by  difeafo, 
by  frights,  heats,  bad  water,  lameneis,  and  other  caufes,  Sudi 
lofles  afieA  not  only  the  proprietbrs  of  droves,  but  alfo  the 
]>ublic,  by  advancing  the  price  of  beef.  Here  the  unfriendly 
operation  of  the  falt-laws  appears  in  a  very  clear  light.  Were 
it  not  for  them,  the  vaft  herds  of  cattle  produced  by  this  truly 
fertile  country  might  be  flaaghtered  and  falted  at  home  for 
the  ufe  of  his  Majefty's  navy,  trading  veflels,  &c« 

If  a  fpirit  of  manufa£hire  were  once  excited,  wool,  of  which 
the  high  part  of  this  country  produces  a  vaft  quantity  j  flax, 
which  might  be  cultivated  with  great  advantage  on  the 
deepeft  of  the  lands  y  and  other  raw  materials^  might  be 

wrought 


g/"  Sorbie.  449 

wrought  «p  into  articles  of  commerce  ;  and  a  Leeds  or  an 
Halifax  would  perhaps  grow  out  of  one  of  our  finall  villau^cs. 

Some  of  the  moft  antient  breed  of  Galloway  horfes  are  a- 
mong  the  mountains  and  lefs  improved  parts  of  the  country. 
They  are  laid  to  be  very  hardy,  ealiiy  maintained,  and  high 
fpirtted.  This  breed  is  well  attended  to  in  Cumberland, 
where  it  is  much  improved  by  crofles  with  Englifli  horfes.  A 
larger  breed  is  preferred  here,  as  being  more  fit  for  the  pur- 
pofes  of  draught  and  agriculture.  Through  the  attention  of 
tlie  noblemen  and  gentry,  this  neighbourhood  has  a  breed  of 
horfes  fit  for  the  fadJte,  and  carriages  of  every  kind.  The 
colours  of  horfes  are  various  ;  but  the  dark  bay,  with  black 
legs  and  feet,  is  preferred.  Their  fhapc  is  generally  good. 
They  were  originally  galloways,  and  faid  to  have  Iprung 
from  a  tSpanilh  breed,  which  caine  afhore  on  this  cpaQ  when 
one  of  the  vefiels  of  the  Armada  was  wrecked  upon  itj  after 
failing  round  by  the  Pentland  Firth. 

Population, '^Tht  population  here  has  been  increaCng  for 
fonie  time  paft. 

The  prefcnt  amount  is             .  •              -             1 069 

Of  thefe  there  are  males             -  -            •              515 

Females            -             -            -  -             -              554 

In  the  village  of  Garlieflown  there  are  about         -  450 

In  ditto  of  Sorbie  about               .  .              •             80 

The  average  of  births         -         «  •             •             23 

Ditto  of  deaths             -             -  -              •                 14 

Ditto  of  marriages             -               -  «             -             8 

Under  ten  years  old             •            -  -             -         276 

From  loto  {o             r             •  •             -            586 

J/om  50  to  80            -             -  •              -             180 

^rom  80  to  100             •              •  «              •             27 

you  !•                           I  i  There 


S5^  Statiftical  Accwnl 

There  are  farmers            •            -  •             •          4j 

Corn  milk             •             •        '    •  •             *            3 

Qoth  milU     *        •             m            m  .             -            2 

Mechanics             •             •»             •  «             *            ^J 

Apprentices            -*            -            -  •            •         11 

Seamen            •            *             ^  •              *            30 

Foreigners            •            •            •  •            •            i 

Ferfons  born  in  England            *•  •             -            24 

Perfons  born  in  Wales             *  ••                •            i 
Nobilityi  one  family. 

Clergy            -                •              -  .            .           3 
One  of  the  Church  of  England^  the  other  two  of  the 

Eftablifhed  Church. 

Epifcopalians             •            «            •  «          -          24 

Secedersy  Ante^  Burghers            «  •             •           60 

Catholics             .             -             .  -              -            4 

Cameronians  '          -            •            •  -            -        a 

Merchants            *            -            -  -             -         11 
In  the  year  1774  feveral  Bimilies  emigrated  to  America. 

JlgrtculiurCi  isfc, — The  general  rule  of  farming  b,  to  have 
one-third  of  the  land  in  tillages  and  two-thirds  in  pafiare. 
Oats,  barley,  and  peafc,  are  the  grains  generally  raifed.  Po- 
tatoes have  been  long  cultivated  with  much  fuccefs.  "Wheat 
has  not  fucceeded,  unlefs  with  a  few,  though  the  foil  b  very 
like  that  o*  Hertfordfhire.  The  parifh  does  not  only  fupplf 
itfelfii  but  exports  a  large  quantitv  of  grain  and  potatoes  to 
London,  Liverpool,  Dublin,  the  Ide  of  Man,  and  the  Wed  1 
of  Scotland.  Every  field  having  produced  its  number  of 
crops,  is  laid  down  with  red,  white,  or  yellow  clovers,  rib,  or 
rye  grafs  feeds.  The  feed  time  commences  in  the  beginniog 
of  March,  and  the  harveft  about  the  middle  of  Auguft. 

There 


There  li  matle  in  the  partlh.  Lime,  from  Cumberhnd,  is 
delivered  in  the  different  bays  at  i  s.  the  Carlifle  bufhcl, 
which  is  equal  to  three  Winchefter  bufliels;  and  Tea  ihells  at 
1  s.  6  d.  per  ton.  Sea  (hells  are  the  beft  of  all  manures ;  and 
in  this  neighbourhood  they  are  inexhauftible.  Every  tide, 
accompanied  by  an  eaft  wind,  brings  in  great  quantities  of  this 
moft  valuable  commodity.  With  thefe  different  manures, 
rich  crops  and  fine  cattle  arc  raifcd ;  but,  if  the  prcfcnt  treat- 
ment of  a  moft  generous  foil  be  perfiftcd  in,  there  is  reafon 
to  believe  that  it  will  be  much  injured.  Three,  and  fome- 
tioies  four  crops  of  oats,  or  barley,  fucceed  each  other ;  and 
with  the  laft  of  thefe  crops  grafs  feeds  are  fown,  which  are 
cat  for  bay  in  the  following  year.  Thus  four,  and  ibme« 
times  five,  white  crops  follow  one  another  (  for  a  crop  ot  rye 
grafs  is  as  fevere  as  a  crop  of  oats,  and  therefore  may  be  called 
a  white  crop. 

When  the  land  is  laid  down  with  grafs  feeds,  it  common* 
ly  lies  fix  years.  Fallowing,  in  this  part  of  the  oountry,  is 
little  pra£tifed  $  and  green  crops  are  but  fmall,  an^l  few  in 
number;  the  fields,  therefore,  become  very  dirty.  A  partial 
fallow  in  the  fpring,  and  early  in  May,  is  of  great  ule  in 
cleaning  the  fields.  It  is  often  followed  by  a  rich  crop  of 
light  grain  -,  and  is  particularly  ferviceable  in  preparing  land 
for  grafs.    This  is  almoft  the  only  fallow  ufed  here. 

Carts  are  ufed  in  carrying  merchants  goods,  manures, 
grain,  &c*  &c.  The  fmall  plough  is  ufed,  fometimes  with, 
and  fometimes  without  a  chain ;  but  for  coarfc  flroog  land, 
a  large  plough  is  thought  neceiTary. 

Rent. — ^The  average  rent  of  land  docs  not  exceed  los.  per 
xre:  Rent  of  houfes  from  L.  x  to  L.  15.    Leafes  are  com- 
monly 


A  $2  Stati/iical  Amount 

monly  granted  for  19  years.  Lord  Galloway  has  two  upon 
his  citate  here  of  2 1  years,  and  the  life  of  the  farmers*  The 
iize  of  farms  is  from  300  to  30  acres. 

Church  and  Slipend.-^Vht  church  was  completely  repair- 
ed about  30  years  9go.  The  manfe  was  rebuilt  in  1778. 
The  iiipcnci  is  L.  75  per  annum  ihc  glebe,  including  grais 
and  arable  land^  garden,  and  fite  of  the  manfe  and  office- 
houles,  does  not  amount  to  10  acrv's.  Of  theie  there  are  4 
acres  of  the  word  land  in  the  neighbourhood.  They  were 
never  thought  worth  ploughing  till  the  prefcnt  incumbent  re- 
ceived them.  There  are  7  heritors.  1  he  Earl  of  Gailoway 
is  the  only  reddent  one.  Dr  Davidfon,  and  £Uiot  William 
David  ion,  his  only  fon»  are  the  prefent  minifters.  The  far- 
mtr  was  admitted  November  1775  i  the  latter  was  ordained, 
September  3.  17899  afliilant  and  fucceflbr.  The  King  is  pa- 
tron. 

Poor. — ^There  arc  13  poor  on  the  lift.  About  L.  27  Ster- 
lings^/* annum  is  diftributed  among  themy  chiefly  raifed  by 
collcdtionb  iii  the  church.  The  legal  manner  of  treating  pau- 
pers was  adopted  here  anno  177^9  that  is,  they  were  obliged 
to  uie  badges,  and  to.conline  themlelves  within  the  bounds 
of  the  pariih.  ihis  dittinflion  was  very  difagreeable  to  them; 
and  it  was  found  that  (bmc  of  thciii  had  hoarded  up  money* 
The  prefent  incumbent  has  never  had  an  improper  applica- 
tion irom  a  native  for  admiiCon  to  the  public  charity. 

Price  of  Labour^  Fue/y  isfc  — Common  day  labourers  arc 
paid,,  one  quarter  of  the  year,  10  d.  per  day;  for  the  other 
three  quarters  1  s. ;  carpenters  i  s.  4  d. ;  mafons  is.  6  d. ; 
taylors  6  d.  or  8  d. 

A 


of  Sorbin  2g^ 

A  farnl  fervant,  when  married,  has  a  houfe  and  garden,  a 
cow's  grafs  and  fodder,  ground  to  raife  flax  and  potatoes  for 
his  family,  his  peats  led  home,  and  oats  out  of  the  barn,  to 
the  v.due  ©f  L  8  Sterling.  Labourers  who  threfh  the  grain 
receive  the  25th  p»*rt  lor  their  labour.  They  are  employed 
in  otlicr  work  wiien  the  threfliing  is  over,  for  which  tiiey 
receive  an  houie  and  g*irden,  grals  and  fodiier  for  a  cow, 
ground  tor  potaiocs,  and  flax  and  oats  out  of  the  barn,  to 
the  value  of  L.  2  Sterling. 

Both  thcfe  defcriptions  of  labourers  maintain  their  families 
comfortably,  educate  ihcir  cml  ircn  in  reading,  writing,  and 
arithmetic,  and  fometimcs  pui  them  apprentices  to  nicciianics. 

Domeflic  fervants  arc  hired  at  and  under  the  following 
rates,  very  feldom  above  them  :  Men  at  L.  7  Sterling  j  wo- 
men L.  3, 

Peat  is  the  fuel  commonly  ufcd ;  they  are  fold  at  3  d.  the 
hor^c  load  at  the  mofles;  and,  when  carried  home  to  the  con- 
funier,   they  are  generally  double  that  fum.     This  kind  of 
futrl  IS  commonly  procured  in  the  parlfh  of  Kirkinner.  Coals 
arc  brought  from  Cumberland  at  19  s.  the  ton.     The  fcarci- 
ty  of  fuel  is  the  greateli  di  fad  vantage  under  which  this  neigh- 
bourhood labours,  and  yet   it  is  within   four  hours  failing 
fro.  11  the  Ln^alh  coal  mines,      fhe  tax  opon  that  neceflary 
arii^'lr,  when  water  borne,  is  the  caufc  of  its  high  price;  and 
here  that   tax  «s  a  real  grievance.     Its   bad  effects,   and  un- 
friendly influence  on   manufaftures,  'are  evident.     A  fmall 
duty,    railed  at  the  pit,   would  aftcdl  every  confumer  equally, 
an«.l  be  more  productive.     0::r  Icgiflators  will  furcly  cmbricc 
fomc  fit  opportunity  of  rcvifing  the  coal  and  fait  laws :    And, 
k  is  humbly  hoped  that  the  honourable  member  to  whom 

thri 


fi54  Statijilcal  Account 

this  imperreft  account  of  their  unfriendlr  operation  is  ad- 
drefled,  will  confider  fuch  a  revifal  as  conneftcd  with  the  in- 
terefls  of  commerce^  governuientj  and  humanity. 

MifaUancous  Obfervatlons^  AnttquitieSy  l^c. — ^Thcrc  arc  two 
vilbg<-s  in  this  parifh,  Garlicftown,  founded  by  the  prefent 
Ear]  of  Galloway  when  Lord  Garlics.  It  is  in  the  form  of  a 
crefcent.  It  contains  about  450  inhabitants.  The  other  viU 
lage  is  Sorbie,  alfo  begun  through  the  encouragement  of  the 
preleiit  Earl,  in  which  there  are  about  80  inhabitants. 

A  tumulus,  was  opened  in  part  fay  fome  road  makers, 
and  human  bones  were  found  in  it.  Near  it,  and  clofe  by 
Hunters,  or  Rigg  Bay,  were  alfo  found  human  boncs^  inclo- 
fcd  by  three  ftoiics ;  and  upon  one  of  the  Aones  there  fcem- 
cd  to  be  an  infcription.  There  are  the  remains  of  two  caf- 
tleSf  Crugleton  and  Eagerncfs.  An  unornamented  arch,  and 
fome  other  parts  of  the  ruins  of  Crugleton,  fliew  it  to  have 
been  a  place  of  great  fizc  and  ftrength.  The  foflc  remains 
very  plain.  This  caftlc  is  faid  to  have  been  the  dwelling  of 
the  very  ancient  and  wealthy  family  of  the  Vaufes,  now  Van- 
fes,  of  Barnbarrow.  Crugleton  is  now  the  property  of  Sir 
Stair  Agnew  of  Lochnaw,  Bart.  Eagernefs  is  altogether  de- 
ftroyed.  The  terminations  of  the  names  of  thcfc  caftles  fhew 
them  to  be  of  Saxon  original.  Nefs^  in  that  language,  fignl- 
fies  an  headland,  or  promontory ;  ion  is  derived  from  a  word 
in  rhe  fame  language  which  Cgnifies  an  hedge  or  wall ;  and 
th^t  word,  again,  fcems  to  be  from  one  fignifying  a  hill.  Ea- 
gerncfs is  a  headland  :  Crugleton  is  upon  a  hill ;  and  feems 
to  fignify  a  town  upon  a  hill,  furroundcd  by  a  wall.  There 
is  a  rope  w^lk  at  Ciar'n-r^nwn,  well  conduced  \  and  ten  coaft- 
ing  vcfTeis  belong  to  that  port» 

AXL 


gf  Sorbie0  355 

An  Ugh  and  independent  fpirit  plainly  marks  the  people  of 
this  parifh.  *To  receive  charity  from  the  panfh  funds  is 
cfieemcd  difgracefult  and  therefore  frugality  prevails  Their 
jnduftry  is  perievering,  and  fecures  their  contentment  and 
virtue.  There  has  not  been  one  criminal  profccution  carried 
on  againft  any  of  them  within  the  memory  of  any  perlcn  in 
the  parifh. 

Two  large  vcflcls  were  ftranded  on  this  coaft  a  few  years 
ago;  every  poflibie  civility  was  fhewn  to  the  pcopL' j  and 
their  vcflels  were  got  off  again  without  being  damaged. 

The  ftatute  labour  is  commuted ;  and,  by  act  of  parliament, 
the  roads  are  made,  and  kept  in  repair,  by  a  pound  rate.  In 
the  year  1782,  a  plentiful  harveft  was  reaped  in  perfc^ion. 
There  were  no  complaints  among  the  poor ;  nor  was  there 
any  meal  fold  under  the  market  price.  The  landholders  and 
farmers  had.  a  friendly  intervievr,  and  refolved  to  retain  in  the 
country  as  much  grain  as  was  fufficient  to  fupply  the  inhabi- 
tants. 

The  nianners,  drefs,  and  ft)  le  of  living  of  the  people,  are 
all  much  changed  within  the  lad  50  years.  Before  that  pe* 
riod,  they  knew  little  of  the  happy  effects  of  induftry,  and, 
therefore,  lived  upon  meal,  milk,  and  vegetables.  Their 
drefs  and  houfcs  were  very  mean.  They  knew  not  the  va- 
lue of  the  inexhaudible  (lores  of  natural  manures,  marie,  and 
fea  (hells,  which  were  at  hand,  trufting  to  the  folding  of 
their  herds  for  manuring  their  lands.  Now  every  thing  bear^ 
a  new  afpcft,  and  the  people  (hare  the  luxuries  of  their  fta* 
tion  with  their  more  fouthern  neighbours,  which  may  be  ac- 
counted for  as  follows : 

Improve- 


n^S  Statijlical  Account 

Improvements  in  agriculture  introduced  fuch  wealth  as  is 
TOoft  permanent  in  its  nature,  becaule  the  valtic  oi  lur  ;  .nd 
is  thereby  increafcd.  A  fur^;lus  of  grain  led  the  l.i  i^ii- 
tants  to  diftant  markets,  and  brought  (Grangers  into  ilie 
country.  Ihey  learned  the  manners  of  their  neigbL>our9y 
and  became  hke  them  ;  (o  th^t  dow.  other  accomphfli* 
nients  are  added  to  that  bold,  acuvc,  and  warlike  fpirit,  by 
which  the  Gallov  dians  were  formerly  dKVmguifhed,  and 
which  prorurtd  for  thrm  the  pri\  ilq'c  of  appearing  in  the 
Tan  of  t!ic  Scot'fh  a'-mrs  Cacijr*b  dcrlcription  of  the  Bcl-» 
gae  appl  '-s  to  the  n  m  anfifnt  times.  •*  Horum  omnium  for- 
«'  tifli  111  hint  lJ'.lLi«if ;  proprcrra  quod  a  culiu,  atque  humani- 
"  tate  provinriac  loni.ilTii.e  ibliiiit.  mini  itqtic  aJ  eos  mer« 
«  catorcb  f<epc  com  n  .nt,  a^<,Mr  ea,  qjae  ad  tiFeminandos 
"  animos  pertinent,  iiiiportuU'  j"  Comments 

The  inhabitants  trade  in  their  own  ▼eflcU  to  London  and 
Port  GUfgow,  and  every  port  b-fwcen  thefe,  as  their  intcr- 
c'l  equire.  Commerce  naturnliy  leads  to  luxury;  and  luxu- 
ry prevailing,  enervate-  OMt  fpirit  wh»rh  gave  it  cxjflencc, 
end,  in  the  end,  ruins  trade,  and  activity  in  every  uicful 
line. 

Good  ronds  arc  of  high  importance  'n  Improving  a  coun- 
try. Wherever  they  are  made,  all  obftarle^  are  furmountcd, 
and  the  improvement  of  every  field,  capable  of  it,  follows  as 
a  certain  confcqticnce.  The  milhary  road  from  Dumfries  to 
Portpatrick  has  produced  many  good  effefts  in  this  ref^Wl. 
By  mea' s  of  it,  mountains,  formerly  appearing  impervious, 
are  now  no  longer  formidable.  The  ftranger  palTes  whh  cafe, 
to  give  and  receive  information ;  and  articles  of  trade  arc 
tranfported  with  facility.     The  road  making  from  this  coun« 

tr7 


gf  Sorbie.      \  25jr 

itrj  to  Edinborghf  by  ^  nearer  way  thaa  Duinfries»  and  that 
into  Air(bire  through  the  mountains,  muft  be  followed  by  the 
beft  confequences. 

Befides  the  great  roads^  crofs  roads  are  naade,  or  makingi 
every  where  through  the  cpuntry. 

There  are  three  fchools  in  the  parifh ;  and  all  the  young 
people  are  educated  according  to  their  ftations.  There  is 
one  inn  in  Garlleftown,  equal  to  any  in  this  part  of  Scotland, 
and  five  ale,  or  rather  whiflcy-hpufes.  In  the  village  of 
Sorbie  there  is  one  houfe  in  which  foreign  Spirits  are  fold, 
and  another  in  which  there  is  nothing  but  whi&y.  There 
is  very  little  ale  fpid  or  brewed  in  this  pari(h  of  late 
years*  The  cffcfts  of  public  houfes  are  moft  injurious  to 
the  morals  and  induftry  of  the  people,  efpecially  when. 
little  elfe  than  whiiky  b  fold  in  them.  A  few  pence  pro* 
cures  as  much  of  this  bafe  fpirit  as  is  fufficient  to  make 
any  man  mad.  The  landlords  of  fuperfluous  petty  public 
houles,  generally  wafte  their  time,  and  ruin  their  conditu- 
tipns,  by  acting  like  decojrs  on  their  filly  half  refolved 
neighbours.  In  this  ihamelefs  buCnefs  they  are  flattered 
with  the  notion  of  promoting  trade.  This  evil  does  not 
prevail  fo  much  here  as  in  fome  other  lefs  induArious  neigh- 
bonrhoods. 

New  houfes  built  in  Garlieftown  withi^  the  laft  ten  years, 

34 
Ditto  in  Sorbie  •  •  -       '     •         -         9 

In  other  parts  of  the  parifh  «  ^  -  26 

59 
«roL.  I.  K  k  Befides 


358  Stati/iieal  Axtntnt 

Befides  the  above,  feveral  old  farm  hoafes  have  been  takes 
down,  and  good  new  ones  crcftcd  on  their  Ctcs.  There 
have  been  about  12  old  houfes  taken  down;  and  there  is  not 
one  finiflied  houfc  uninhabited.  Wherever  cottagers  are 
"^jtmployed  in  agriculture,  population  increafes.  Their  dul- 
dren  are  healthy,  happy,  and  numerous. 


KUM. 


g/*  Kiiiearn.  ^59 

iJ  U  M  B  E  k     XXX. 
]?ARISH  OF  KILTEARN. 

6j  the  Rtu.  Mr  HaIhrY  Robertson. 


Origin  of  the  Name. 

IlT  ILTEARN  derives  its  name  from  two  Gaelic  wm'ds,  viz. 
"^^  viz.  Keil  Tighearti^  fignifyiog  the  burying  place  of  .the 
iaird  or  great  man  ;  but  there  is  no  record  or  tradition  from 
which  w^  can  learn  what  great  man  was  firft  buried  here» 
The  Monro's  of  FowliS|  the  chief  family  in  the  pariih,  were 
buried^  for  feveral  centuries,  at  ChanoQryi  and  only  begaa 
to  bury  at  Kiltearn  anno  1588. 

It^  well  known  that  many  other  places  in  Scotland  owe 
thdr  names  to  a  fimilar  cauie,  viz.  their  giving  burial  to  Tome 
iaint  or  eminent  perlbn  \  and  the  names  of  thefe  places  begia 
with  Kil^  being  a  contraAion  of  Eeil^  as  Kilmuir,  i.  e.  Mary'a 
burial  place  (  Killing  Kilbride,  Kilfyth^  Klildonan,  &c. 

Situation^  Extent^  and  Sufface.'^TKii  parifh  Is  iituated  about 
the  middle  of  the  county  of  Ro(s,  in  the  diftriA  called  Fcrin« 
dbilald,  of  which  we  fhall  fpeak  afterwards.  It  belongs  to 
the  Prelbytery  of  Dingwall^  and  fynod  of  Rofs  \  and  ftretcfa^ 
es  along  the  north  flde  of  the  bay  that  rnns  up  from  Cromar- 
ty to  Dingwall^  being  about  fix,  miles  long  from  Novar- 

Inn 


^66  StatiJiUal  Account 

Inn  at  the  eafti  to  a  rivulet  called  Aultndait»  near  TuBocby 
at  the  weft.  The  breadth  is  various.  That  part  of  the  pa- 
ri(h  which  is  well  cukivated  b  about  two  miles  broad,  iran 
the  fea-fliore  on  the  fouth,  to  the  foot  of  thehillj  gi^ond  fo 
the  north.  But  there  are  feveral  gra2ings  and  Htgfaiattd  pot* 
feflions  at  the  diftance  of  five,  ten,  and  even  ifteen  miles, 
from  the  fea.  It  is  bounded  by  the  pahfh  of  Alaes  on  the 
eaft,  hj  CoDtin  and  Lochbroom  on  the  north,  by  Dingwall 
and  Fodderrj  cm  the  weft,  and  by  Cromarty  Bay  on  the  (bath. 
The  Highland  diftridt  of  this  parifh  is,  for  the  mOft  part, 
wild  and  uncultivated,  confifting  of  high  moimtains,  (cpanHb- 
ed  from  cich  other  by  rapid  rivulets,  and  exteniive  tra£b  of 
moors  and  moflTy  ground.  In  this  diftridV,  there  is  a  conft- 
derabh  ftrah  *,  called  the  Clare,  pleafantly  fituated  in  an  ii^ 
dined  plain,  upon  the  banks  of  the  river  Skiack,  containing 
about  200  acres  arable  land  and  meadow  ground.  And,  on 
Che  oppoflte  fide  of  the  river,  there  is  alfo  a  plain  of  about  30 
acres,  called  Bognahavin.  Though  the  ho^fes  in  this  remote 
diftriA  arc  in  general  very  mean,  yet  there  is  one  on  each  fide 
of  the  river  built  in  a  ftyle  fuperior  to  the  generality  of 
farm-houfcs  in  the  parifh,  being  the  goat-whey  quarters  of 
the  minifter  of  Kiltearn,  and  of  Mr  Muxiro  fheriff-fuUlitute 
of  Lewis*  in  either  of  thefe  houfes,  the  weary  traveller,  dt 
the  fatigued  fportlman,  can  find  comfortable  accommoda- 
tions. This  circumftance  is  only  taken  noticeof,  becaufe  it  is  a 
perfeA  contraft  to  the  milerable  huts,  called  Shealings,  which 
the  hardy  Highlanders  ir.habit  while  they  tend  their  flocks 
suid  herds,  and  live  on  the  produce  of  the  dairy* 

.     If  wc  turn  our  eyes  to  the  bw  diftri£k  of  the  parifh,  which 
Inclines  gently  from  the  foot  of  the  hiUs  towards  the  lea,  a 

very 

^    .ft.  e.  valley,  or  level  land  between  hlUs. 


xttj  ridi  and  beautiful  prolpea;  opem  to  our  tIcvi^  %  tub 
WcH  cultivated  fields,  indofed  either  with  flone-waAs,  or 
whh  thorn  hedges  «ad  belts  of  planting.  In  ffiort,  every  cra^ 
velfer  is  ftruck  with  the  natural  beautj  of  the  countryt  Wfaiick 
of  late  years  has  been  fe  much  improved  by  art,  as  muft  give 
a  fiivouraUe  idea  of  the  g6od  tafte  and  opulehoe  of  t\t  pro- 
prietors. The  gentlemen's  houfes  are  lai^ge  and  commodi- 
ous, and  their'  gardens  well  ftored  with  fruit-trees.'  About 
eighty  years  ago,  there  were  few  foreft  trees  to  be  feea  here^ 
except  fome 'natural  alders  and  willows  on  the  baoks  oif 
rivers,  and  a  few  aihes,  elms,  and  fimes,  furrounding  gentle* 
men's  gardens ;  but  now  there  are  extenfive  plantations  of 
pines  or  firs,-  feveral  miles  in  circumference,  befldes  many 
fhoufands  of  oaks,  and  other  hard  Wood  of  every  kind  that  is' 
to  bt  met  with  in  North  Britain.  The  fcvdiFal  proprietors 
feem  to  vie  with  each  other  in  raifing  the  fineft  plantationH 
of  timber.  Suth  in^provements  are  defirable  on  a  ddubU 
account  t  They  adorn  the  £ice  of  the  country,  while  they 
promote  the  Intereft  of  individuals. 

There  are  feveral  hills  in  this  pariih,  which;  being  viewed' 
from  the  plains  below,  add  much  to  the  grandeur  and  variety 
of  the  prOfpeQ.  Several  of  theft  hills  arc  covered  with  fir 
plantations,  which  cannot  fail  to  pleafc  the  eye,  as,  the 
Bill  above  Foulis,  the  hiU  of  Swordic,  and  Tome  others^ 
Knockmartin,  a  fmall  hill,  compared  to  the  ref>|  i^  fitiiateit 
On  the  eaft  fide  of  the  hill  of  Swordle,  and  is  lecn  from  the 
feafide.  Its  chief  beauty  confi  (Is  in  its  fhape,  it  tapers  gra-^ 
dually  from  the  bafe  to  the  highcft  point,  forming  a  cone. 
Thb  hft  mentioned,  as  well  as  the  higher  hills  beyond  !t,  are 
covered  with  heath.  But  the  moft  diftinguiflied  hill  in  the 
pariih  is  Ben-uaifb,  which  towers  above  all  the  reft  j  and 
muft  be  extremely  high,  as  h  is  fcen  in  Moray  and  Banff- 

fliire* 


i6t  SiatifikalJaoUHi 

ihire.  fieii-iiaifh  is  always  covered  with  fnow,  even  tn  thii 
houeft  day  in  fummer.  And,  in  aflufion  to  this»  there  is 
a  remarkable  claufe  inferted  in  one  of  the  charters  of  the  &• 
jenily  of  Fowlis,  which  is,  that  the  forcft  of  Uaiih  is  held  of 
the  King  on  condition  of  paying  a  fnow-ball  to  his  Majcfiy 
on  any  day  of  the  year^  if  re<]uired.  And  we  are  afiiired 
that  a  quantity  of  fnow  was  aftually  fent  to  the  Duke  of 
Gumberlandj  when  at  Invemeis>  in  1 746,  to  cool  his  wine. 
There  is  a  great  deal  of  heath  and  coarfe  grafs,  which  is 
«KCcUent  pafture  for  cattle,  all  around  this  hill  i  and  the  fo- 
reft  is  well  (locked  with  deer,    and    a    variety  of   moor 


jStf  CXmatft  and  JD//^/j/^/.— -The  air  is  generally  clear  and 
pure  s  and  it  has  been  obierved,  in  this,  as  well  as  the  neigh- 
bouring pariflies,  that  the  weather  has  been  more  changeable 
for  twenty  years  paft  than  in  former  times.  That  rain  has 
£»llen  of  late  years  in  a  greater  propdi-tlon  than  it  did  for- 
merly, is  a  well  known  fa£t,  which  has  materially  injured 
the  crops,  and  occafioned  late  harvefts  over  all  the  north 
of  Scotland.  And,  that  the  air  is  more  cold  and  moift  upon 
the  higher,  than  upon  the  lower  ground,  is  found  to  hold 
true,  in  this  diftriA,  as  well  as  in  other  corners  of  the  king- 
dom. But,  notwithftanding  the  variablenefs  of*  the  weather, 
the  climate  of  Kilteam  is  by  no  means  unhealthful ;  nor  can 
the  inhabitants  Impute  the  difeafes  they  fometimes  hbour 
under  to  any  noxious  quality  in  the  air,  but  rather  to  acci- 
dental caufes.  We  are  credibly  informed,  that  the  fcarcity 
of  bread  in  1782  has  impaired  the  conftitutions  of  feveral 
people  in  the  lower  ranks  of  life,  and  entailed  obftinate  dif- 
eafes on  them.  When  an  infeftious  fever  attacks  any  fiunily 
in  the  parifh,  it  is  generally  communicated  to  fome  of  their 
neighbours,  and  makes  feveral  breaches  before  it  ceafes  i  b\ii 

k 


•     of  Kiltearn.  %6^ 

k  is  a  praVidenrial  circumftance,  that  the  people  are  feMom 
▼ifited  with  fuch  a  calamity.  The  epidemical  difeafe  mpft 
dreaded  is  the  natural  fmall-poz,  which  ufually  fwecps  awaf 
a  number  of  children  once  in  feven  years,  and  fometimet 
oftener.  In  tKe  year  I777»  above  30,  and  in  1778  no  fewer 
than  47  children  died  of  this  difeafe.  There  is  not  the  leaft 
doubt  that  this  grl!at  mortality  was  owing  in  part  to  the 
improper  treatment  of  the  patientSi  and  the  negleft  of  ino* 
culation,  to  which  the  people  are  ftill  averfp,  in  fpite  of 
the  earneft  pcrfuafion  and  example  of  their  fuperiprs,  con- 
firmed by  a  fuccefsful  prafticc  in  almoft  every  inftance  where 
k  has  been  attempted.  Rheumntic  complaints  have  alfo  been 
more  frequent  than  formerly  within  thefe  30  years,  owing 
probably  to  the  fubrtitution  of  linen  for  flannel  (bins  among 
the  lower  ranks ;  •  and  a  return  to  the  ufe  of  flannel  and 
vroolen  is  found  to  be  the  mod  efficacions  remedy  for  tlus 
complaint. 

V 

Before  we  conclude  this  article,  it  may  be  proper  to  pb- 
fcrve,  that  the  following  inflances  of  longevity,  which  fecni 
to  be  well  attefted,  zWorA  a  very  favourable  teflimony  of  tfae 
faealthfulnefs  of  the  air  and  climate  of  this  parifh.  About 
the  year  1706,  Katharine  M«KenzIe  died  at  Fowlis  in  the 
117th  year  of  her  age.  In  1782,  Mr  John  Brown,  late 
faftor  of  Fouiis,  died  in  his  107th  year.  In  1775,  Kennetli 
Munro,  late  of  Inveran,  died  in  this  parlfli,  in  his  locth 
year  i  and  Mrs  Munro,  his  wife,  died  4  years  after  him, 
5n  her  88th  year.  The  only  inflancc  which  we  fliall  add  is 
a  gentleman,  a  heritor  of  the  pari(h,  who  had  been  a  member 
•of  the  laft  Scotch,  and  of  the  firft  Britifli  parliament  5  he 
died  about  30  years  ago,  in  his  94th  year.  And,  within  thefe 
few  ycars^  a  lifter  and  daughter  of  the  fame  gentleman  died 
Jicrc,  who  were  jcry  little  fliort  of  the  fame  age, 

Sc/7 


$64  Stati/lkat  Aeccuni 

^oU  and  Pr^duci.^^Tht  foil  here  is  varioDff  is  nMght  b^ 
cspe£ted  in  ib  larjje  a  diftriA  ef  land.  In' the  highland  dif^ 
triAf  the  foil  is  either  mofly^  or  a  cold  clay,  mixed  widi  find 
/or  gravel,  very  unfriendly  to  vegetation.  On  the  banks  of 
)ihe  rivers  the  meadovi  are  fcovered  with  a  toogb,  ftrong  tor^ 
prodttcing  a  coarfe  fort  of  grafs,  fitter  for4^aftnring  joud^ 
cattle  than  for  f(»ttening  them,  or  producing  milk.  And  it 
would  probably  be  for  the  intereft,  both  of  landlord  and  te« 
nant,  that  a  plough  were  never  ufed  ip  this  diftrijt  %  for,  the' 
corn  may  grow,  yet,  through  the  cold  and  moiftnre  of  the 
climate,  it  feldpm  ripens  fo  as  to  make  good  bread.  In  the 
low  diftri£i  of  the  pari(h,  again,  the  dificrence  of  foil  is  very 
obfervable.  Towards  the  eaft,  it  is  light  and  gravelly.  la 
the  middle,  for  about  two  mile^  fquare^  there  is  a  rich  loam, 
fit  to  produce  any  vegetable,  with  proper  culture.  As  we 
proceed  further  on,  the  foil  is  black  and  fpoi^  ^  but,  by 
means  o^  drains,  it  has  of  late  years  been  greatly  improved. 
The  weftern  divifion  of  the  parifli  confifts  chiefly  of  a  ftrane 
clay  foil,^  fome  of  it  of  a  reddiih  hue,  which,  when  well 
wrought,  produces  excellent  crops.  The  feafons  fopr  fowisf 
and  reaping,  in  this  pariib,  are  as  difierent  as  the  degrees  of 
activity,  and  the  unaccountable  prejudices  of  various  ^umers. 
Some  lay  it  down  as  a  ma^m,  never  to  begin  (owing  till  a 
certain  d^y  of  the  month,  when  their  fathers  and  grandfa- 
thers were  accu(h)med  to  fow.  Qthers,  again,  embrace  the 
^rft  opportunity,  when  the  foil  is  fufficicntly  dry  to  receive 
the  feed  }  an<3i  the  effefk  is  fuch  as  might  naturally  be  expe&- 
ed«  The  fpirited  aAive  farmer,  who  fows  early,  reaps  an 
early  harveft,  and  the  beijk  corn  ^  while  the  others  fuficr  all 
the  inconveniences  of  a  late  harveA.  But,  we  muft  here  re« 
mark,  what  is  very  obrervable,  that  the  farmers  on  the  oppo» 
fite  fide  of  the  bay,  in  what  is  called  the  Black  Ifle,  never  fail 
to  reap  their  corn  a  fortnight  or  twenty  days  earlier  than  the 

inhabitant^ 


if  Kilteam.  Big 

Inhabitants  of  this  parifli ;  and  yet  they  are  e^pofed  to  the 
dorthj  while  Kiltearh  has  a  fouth  afpe£l.  The  difference  muft 
certainly  be  owing  to  the  quality  of  the  foil.    That  on  the 
oppofite  Ihore  is  a  moiild  mixed  with  fand  and  gravel>  thicfly 
Ibunded  on  quarry.     As  to  the  produflions  of  this  parifh^ 
were  we  to  mention  ihem  all,  we  would  enumerate  the  feve- 
ral  animals  and  vegetables  that  ai-e  moft  commoilly  to  be  met 
with  in  Korth  Britain,  with  the  aLtdition  of  thofe  produc- 
tions peculiar  to  highland  cduntri^s.     The  hills  abound  with 
fed  deer,  atld  ill  kinds  of  moor  game  }  and  various  birds  and 
beafts  of  prey,  as  eagles,  hawks,  foxes^  &c;     in  the  extenfive 
heaths  df  this  diftriClj  a  great  variety  of  berries  is  produced, 
tnoA  of  which  are  very  grateful  to  the  tafte.     During  the 
winter  ftorms,  thete  are  ihoals  of  fea-fowls  on  the  coaft  here, 
fuch  as  wild  duAs,  and  a  fpecies  of  geefe  called  rwd  geifi^ 
which  ai'e  i:(leemed  good  eating.    Some  ihci^fi[h  are  likewife 
found  up<^n  the  coail,  fuch  aS  muicles,  cockles,  and  wilk^. 
The  fea- coaft  beifig  (booth  and  iandy  for  the  mod  parr, 
ihere  is  little  fea-weed,  and  none  at  all  fit  for  burning  kelp. 
Bee-hives  were  formerly  VC17  plentiful  in  this  parifli,  but  no\<r 
it  is  probable  that  thtre  ard  not  above  20  in  the  wi^ole  diilriA. 
The  paHOi  ufcd  to  be  greatly  infefted  with  rats)  but  they 
are  now  almoft  extirpated.     Whether  this  is  owing  to  the 
induilry  of  rat-killet-s,  Who  haVe  been  employed  to  dcUrcy 
them,  or  whether  they  have  emigrated  to  fome  other  dil- 
triAf  U  not  known.     As  the  prejudice  againft  eating  fwine's 
fle(h  it  in  a  great  meafiire  overcome,  a  coniiderable  number 
of  pigs  is  reared  herci     Not  only  tstvj  fermerj  but  every 
houfe-keeper,  reafs  annually  one  or  two  pigs,  and  fome  half 
a  dozen ;  the  greateft  number  of  which  are  ibid  at  the  neigh- 
bouring markets  ;  and,  when  tolerably  well  fed,  fetch  from 
20  to  30  (hillings  a  piece.     The  breed  of  black  cattle  here  is 
Tariaus.   In  the  Highlands,  they  were  fmall  Czcd  and  hardy. 
Vol.  I.  LI  but 


^66  StattfitcalyAccoum 

but  not  quite  to  fmall  as  the  common  breed  of  cattle  In  cotm^ 
ties  farther  to  the  north.  But  the  gentlemen  and  principal 
farmers  have  been  at  great  pains  to  improve  their  breed  of 
cattle  by  purchafing  fome  from  Fife  and  Moray,  vhkh  are 
conHderably  larger  than  the  common  breed  of  the  country. 
Some  of  the  lal^  mentioned,  when  full  fed,  fell  for  L.  lo  or 
L.  12.  The  horfes  of  the  parifh  are  alfo  of  two  kinds; 
fome  of  a  large  Galloway  fize,  which  the  gentlemen  ufc  m 
ploughing  and  carting,  value  from  L.  lo  to  L.  ao  each; 
and  a  tew  worth  L.  25.  But  the  greateft  number  of  horfes 
are  what  arc  commonly  cuLed  Highland  Garrom^  value  from 
JL  3  to  L.  5  each.  There  are  few  goats  in  the  pari(h  \  and 
thele  ar^  the  property  of  two  tenants,  who  occupy  very  re- 
•  mote  poiTcflions.  The  number  of  (heep  at  prefent  is  very 
inconfiderable,  and,  for  the  moft  part,  of  a  very  inferior  qua- 
lity, being  of  a  fmall  fi2e,  and  producing  very  little  wool.  At 
prefent,  there  are  only  two  or  three  farmers  in  the  priih 
who  manage  their  Iheep  properly  j  and  one  of  their  (heep  is 
worth  two  of  any  other  farmer's.  The  rearing  of  iheep  hu 
been  rather  difcouraged  for  fome  time  paft,  being  found  fo 
deftruAive  to  young  plantations-  of  timber ;  but  it  is  not 
dou'oted  that|  in  a  few  years,  the  rearing  of  this  ufcful  animal 
will  become  a  principal  objedt  both  with  the  landlords  and  te- 
nants* 

Wc  fliall  conclude  this  article,  by  giving  a  lift  of  the  num-^ 
ber  of  horfes,  black  cattle,  and  fhcep,  in  the  parift,  which, 
according  to  the  beft  information,  cannot  be  far  diftant  from 
the  truth. 

Horfes  of  the  larger  fisse  •  -  -  65 

———of  the  fmaller  fizc  -  -  -  305 

Black  cattle,  including  oxen  -     .        -  -       ^o^o 

Sheep  -  -  -  ^        ^  ^  (iz:i 


5f  Kiltearru  i6y 

JfAfHtanis;  their  Origin^  and  Progrefs  in  Civirtzation. — It  is 
well  known,  that  in  many  parts  of  Scotland,  particularly  in 
the  north)  every  diftrift  is  inhabited  chiefly  by  fomc  one  par- 
ticular tribe  or  clan.  So  it  is  in  this  country.  The  name  of 
Rois  prevails  in  the  eaft,  Mackenzie  in  the  weft)  and  Munro 
an  the  middle  diftri£l  \  i.  e.  in  the  two  contiguous  pariQies  of 
Kiltearn  and  Alnes,  which  diftriA  of  country  is  commonly 
called  FtrindQnald:  which  name  appears  to  be  of  very  an- 
tientdate.  Buchanan  relates,  that,  about  the  beginning  of 
the  nth  century.  King  Malcolm  II.  of  Scotland  fued  out 
the  lands  in  the  country  to  the  great  families  in  it,  on  account 
of  their  eminent  fervices  in  aflifting  him  to  extirpate  the 
Danes  out  of  his  kingdom.  And,  according  to  tradition,  it 
was  on  that  occafion  that  the  country  between  the  borough 
of  Dingwall  and  the  water  of  Alnes,  in  the  (hire  of  Rofs,' 
was  given  to  Donald  Munro,  the  progenitor  of  the  family  of 
Fowlis>  from  which  all  the  Munros  in  this  country  are  de- 
fcended :  And  part  of  thefe  lands  were  afterwards  by  the 
King  ere£led  into  a  barony,  called  the  l^aronj  ofFowIis.  From 
this  Donald  Munro  is  lineally  defcended  the  prefent  Sir  Hugh 
Munro,  Bart,  who  is  the  29th  baron  of  Fowlis,  and  proprie- 
tor of  about  two-thirds  of  the  lands  in  the  parifl)  of  Kiltearn. 
Under  this  head,  we  may  obferve,  that,  in  antient  times, 
thofc  tribes  or  dans  who  inhabited  different  diftrifts  of  the 
country,  looked  upon  themfclves  as  a  diftinft  people  or  na- 
tioDj  united  together  under  their  refpedlive  chiefs  or  leaders, 
who  cxercifed  a  fovereign,  and  at  the  fame  time  a  parental, 
authority  over  them*  They  looked  up  to  the  chief  as  to  their 
common  father  3  he  looked  upon  them  as  his  children,  whom 
he  protected  as  well  as  governed.  That  there  were  conftant 
feuds  and  conflidh  maintained  between  the  neighbouring  clans 
or  tribes,  is  a  faft  well  known.  Many  circumftances  concur- 
red to  occafiop  thefe  conflifts.  and  to  fupport  this  warlike 

fjpirit. 


fi  63  Statl/iical  Account 

fpirlt.  In  thprc  rude  and  remote  ages,  when  trade  and  comr 
piercp  wefe  little  attended  to,  men  of  an  enterprifing  fpirit 
had  no  other  field  for  diftinguifhing  themfelves  but  by  their 
fupcrior  ikill  in  the  ufe  of  arm$.  f^is  induced  them  to  watch 
for  every  opportunity  of  difplaying  their  martial  atchicvc- 
ments  \  and  hence  it  ofteu  h^PP^tied,  that  the  flighted  af- 
fronts were  refented  as  the  greateft  injuries,  cfpecially  from 
pne  of  a  diSercnt  tribe  or  clan.  And  it  was  not  uncommon^ 
for  the  fake  of  a  meitrr  punAilio,  or  point  of  honour,  to  fee 
I  wo  neighboi^ring  clans  marching  out  to  battle,  ar^d.  main- 
taining the  bjoody  confliA  till  viAory  was  declared  on  oue 
<idc.  The  conflift  being  over,  it  was  ofua]  that  the  chief  or 
leader  beftowed  fome  mark  of  favour  upon  thofe  of  his  fol- 
lowers who  h^d  diftioguiihed  themfelves  by  their  valour. 
Whtn  both  fides  were  wearied  out  with  the  JFatigues  of  war, 
there  was  ufually  a  bond  of  amity  or  firiendfliip  entered  into 
by. their  leaders,  in  which  they  bound  themfelyesi  and  their 
followers,  to  maintain  peaces  which  deeds  were  executed 
with  all  the  folemnity  of  treaties  entered  into  between  two 
fovercign  powers.  But,  even  after  the  chiefs  of  the  clam 
became  more  enlightened  and  humanifed  than  to  encourage 
|hc  old  feuds,  they  found  it  no  cafy  matter  to  rci^rain  the 
lower  ranks  among  th^ir  followers  from  aflaffinatlng  their 
neighbours,  aqd  committing  depredations  on  their  property. 
A  ftriking  proof  of  which  we  learn  from  >  tranfaftion  that 
happened  in  this  part  of  the  country  little  more  than  a  cen-^ 
tury  a^o,  when  there  was  a  bond  of  friendihip  entered  into 
between  the  families  of  Seaforth  and  f  o^ylis.  An  old  record, 
\y\x\ch  gives  a  charafler  of  Sir  Johh  Munro  of  Fowlis,  fpeaks 
thus :  <  He  lived  in  good  correfpondence  fvith  his  neigh- 
<  hours ;  for  there  was  a  mutual  condefcendence  pad  bc« 
f  t\yixt  Kenneth  Earl  of  Seaforth  and  Sir  John  Munro,  there- 
f  in  defigned  Johp  Mfinro  younger  of  Fo'wliSj  of  which  the 

•  tcnqr 


ef  Kiliearni  ''  «<J9* 

t«  tenor  follows :' — "  At  Edinburgh  the  twcntlc  third  day  of 
f*  January,  javic  and  fextie  one  years.  It  is  condefcended  and 
«  agreed  as  follows,  that  is  to  fay,  We  Kenneth  Earl.of  $ca« 
*l  forth,  and  John  >Iunro  younger  of  Fowlis,  taking  to  our 
«•  cQnfidcratlon  how  prejudicial  it  hath  been  to  both  oiir  fa- 
ce milies  that  there  hath  not  been  of  a  long  time,  fo  good  a 
f<  correfpondence  betwixt  us  as  was  befitting  men  of  that 
<<  conjunAion  and  neighbourhood,  and  of  what  advantage  it 
«  will  be  to  us,  to  live  in  good  correfpondence  and  confe- 
f5  ^tmAe  one  with  another,  and  to  maintain  and  concur  for 
<<  t^e  weal  jof  either.  For  the  which  caufes,  We  th(C  faid  noble 
f  *  Lord,  and  John  Munro  younger  of  Fowlis,  taking  burthen 
<(  on  us  for  our  friends,  kinfmen,  and  all  others  whom  w^ 
*f  may  ftop  or  let,  do  by  thir  prefents  bind  and  oblige  us  and 
^<  our  heirs  faithfully  upon  our  honours  to  maintain  and 
<*  concur  with  each  other,  for  the  good  of  both  and  our 
^  forefaids  and  to  prevent  as  much  as  in  us  lyes,  what  may 
^  be  to  the  prejudice  of  either  of  us  or  of  any  in  whom  ei- 
<*  ther  of  us  may  be  concerned  in  all  time  coming,  as  wit- 
««  nefe  thir  prefents  fubfcribed  by  us  the  place,  day, 'month 
^  and  year  above  written  and  -  mentioned,  before  thefe  wit« 
^f  nefles,  Thomas  M^Kenzie  of  Plufcardin,  Colin  M'Kenzie 
<*  of  Redcal!le,  Lieutenant  Colonel  Alexr  Munro,  and  Majo|r 
<f  Alexr  Munro  Commiflar  of  Stirling.  Sic  fubfcribitur,  &ea^^ 
««  yiff,  John  Munro."  But  notwithftanding  this  bond  of  friend- 
fliip  between  the  chiefs  of  both  clans,  it  cannot  be  denie4 
that  a  good  deal  of  the  old  fpiric  difcovered  itfelf  on  various 
occaliotis  among  their  followers  and  adherents,  till  It  was 
xnoft  happily  fuppreflcd  at  the  memorable  aera  1745 — 6.  It 
is  our  good  fortune  to  live  in  an  age  when  we  fee  thofe  whofe 
I>redcceflbrs,  in  rude  and  barbarous  times,  feldom  met  but 
vvith  hofiile  intentions,  now  living  in  habits  of  fincere  friend* 

fhlR 


mjrn^  BUdiJIUdJjmmi 

fliip  ap4fi)cbl  intercourle,  mach  to  their  mutual  haoanr  aa4 
sdvaotage. 

Poffulationf^^In  order  to  afcertain  with  accuracy  the  popo* 
f  ation  ot  thb  poriih,  a  Carvty  was  made  between  the  begin- 
ning  of  January  and  the  middle  of  March  179I9  from  which 
we  are  enabled  to  give  the  following  account  of  that  iiQpor^ 
tant  article : 

Number  of  houfes,  or  fmokes  -  -  38; 

■  fouls  .pp.  1616 
^  males  •  .  ,.  ^  tfp^ 
^— '■■  females  -  •  «  92  a 
Under  10  years  of  age  t  •  »  448 
From  10  to  20  »  ^  *  306 

20  to  30  •  ^  •  219 

1 30  to  40  -  ^  -  ao^ 

40  to  50  f-  •  .     '  173 

.— -    50  to  60  -       .  w  .  I4J 

■  ■  60  to  70  -  r  -  81 
70  to  80                  -                    -                        w                  -  29 

^         80  to  po              "-              «  p             V  9 

Married  perfons  of  both  fezes  -                -  492 

Unmarried  women  from  18  to  50  •            •  1^3 

*— ->           men  paft  20            -  -             -  ^2 

— women  paft  50            •  -            -  84 

Widowers                  -                    •  -  tg 

Widows               -               •  •               «  96 

From  the  foregoing  lift  it.appearsj  ift,  that  many  of  the 
inhabitants  of  the  pariHi  live  to  what  may  be  reckoned  old 
age;  2dlyi  that  the  number  of  females  hr  exceeds  that  of 
tl^e  nicies ;  and,  3dly,  that  the  number  of  widowers  is  but 

imaUa 


ifkiliearfi;  "^ 

imalli  while  the  number  of  widows  is  (b  great^  is  muft  exalte 
tompaflion  in  every  feeling  bread.  If  the  number  of  houfci 
or  fmokes  fliaU  appear  confiderable,  let  it  be  obferved,  Utit 
moft  of  them  are  mlferable  huts,  and  that  fome  6(  thiem  aref 
only  inhabitcfd  by  a  poor  folitary  widow,  or  by  a  fmgle  ti^t^ 
who  works  for  days  wages  wherever  he  can' find  eiAployment. 
At  diSerent  periods  of  time  th6  population  of  this  parifti  has 
varied  rouchi  which  can  be  cafily  accounted  for^  VTc  lesrfi 
from  good  information,  that,  about  the  beginning  of  this  ceft*. 
tury,  there  Were  nearly  as  many  inhabitants  in  this  pariAi  a» 
there  are  at  prefenc.  This  fa£b  fcems  to  be  farther  eftablifli- 
ed  by  fome  old  fcffion  regifiers  of  baptifms  and  marriages 
between  the  year  1700  and  1728,  extrafts  of  which  arc  fub« 
joined,  k  is  to  be  regretted  that  there  are  feveral  charoi© 
in  thofe  recordsj  which  prevents  our  giving  the  e«tra£b  fo 
Completeljr  as  might  be  wifhed  f  but  to  fhew  ckariy  that  the 
population  here  had  gradually  diminifhed  between  the  year 
t740  and  1770,  lifts  are  given  of  the  baptifms  and  marriages 
celebrated  about  that  period,  viz.  from  1747  to  i7$2^  Tlie 
diminution  of  the  number  of  inhabitants  then  can  be  very 
i^tionally  accounted  for.  That  martial  fpirit  which  has  hceit 
a  diftinguifliing  thara£teriftic  of  the  Munros,  led  p^rfdns  of 
every  rank  and  delcription  in  this  parifh  to  fly  to  arms  as 
Ibon  a;  the  trtunpet  founded  the  alarm  of  war.  By  this 
means  the  flower  of  the  young  men  of  Kiltearn  were  fcatter- 
cd  abroad  in  aH  the  coontries  that  have  been  the  feat  of  war 
cUiring  that  period  $  in  Flanders,  in  Germany,  in  the  Eaft 
and  Weft  Indies,  and:  in  America  i  befides,  feveral  hundreds 
bave  gOQe  as  recruits  to  the  Scots  Brigade  in  Holland,  which- 
eflabliflunent  was  at  that  time  one  of  the  chief  fields  of  pre- 
ferment for  young  gentlemen  of  family.  It  is  no  wonder, 
then,  that  a  country  which  for  a  long  time  had  been  a  nurfe« 
Tj  for  the  armyj  fhould,  in^  a  courfe  of  years,  decreafe  confi- 

derablj 


^erMf  in  popi^ation.  But,  .at  the  peace  17631  foch  maif 
bers,.  botb  of  oficcrs  and  private  foldiers,  flocked  home  to. 
their  native  country^  that  the  population  is  fenfibly  increafed 
ilnce  that  period.  Add  to  this,  that  the  various  buildings 
and  improvements  which  have  been  carried  oq  in  this  oelgh* 
bourhood  within  20  years,  has  induced  m;lny  labourers  and 
artificers  to  (etf le  amon^  US|  and  confiderably  increafed  the 
number  of  inhabitants* 

'The  following  lifts,  extrafled  from  the  fefiion  records,  wiQ 
fully  illuftrate  what  has  been  advanced  above,  by  giving  a 
^iew  of  the  population  at  three  feveral  periods,  viz.  at  the 
beginning  of  this  century,  about  the  middle  of  it,  and  at  the 
prefent  time* 

Lilt  during  the  l^irft  Period* 

Yeafs.                                                   Baptifms.  Marriage^. 

1702,  from  January  6.  to  September  17.     33  ho  record. 

1724,  during  the  whole  year             «          42  ;          B 

^725             •            •             •            i          36  •          § 

1726             .          .         .          .         .         18  i          4 

1727     ......     21       .     li) 

Lift  during  the  Second  Period. 

1747      • i3  i  t 

X748 -2^  •  * 

«749 i?  •  ^ 

1750 .28  .11 

175X * .        26      '     i  9 

1752  .        .        •        .        ^        .'       2^  .  I* 

'54  S3 

Yearly  average,  nearly        26  ^ 

Lift 


of  Kiltearn. 
Lift  during  the  Third  Period. 


»73 


YeaVs. 

Baptifms. 

Marriages, 

Burials, 

1784 

31 

9 

1785 

34        • 

II 

1785 

34        • 

7 

1787 

34        . 

7 

1788 

40 

8 

1789 

.          l6        . 

8 

1790 

45 

•        >S 

^54 

<5j 

190 

Yearly  average. 

bearlj      36 

9 

27 

Though  no  public  regifter  of  the  burials  has  been  kept 
here»  yet,  from  memorandums  kept  by  private  per fons,  and 
the  beft  information  we  could  obtain  on  the  fubje£t|  there  is 
every  reafon  to  believe  that  the  above  is  a  correct  ftatement 
for  the  laft  feven  years* 


Heritors^  Rentj  a  fid  Farms, — ^Thcre  are  fix  heritors  or  pro- 
prietors of  land  in  this  parifli ;  and  the  two  moft  confider* 
able  of  them  refide  conftantly  in  it ;  one  refides  occafionally  ^ 
and  the  remaining  three  live  upon  other  parts  of  their  pro- 
perty. About  60  years  ago,  there  were  more  than  twice  the 
prefent  number  of  heritors  ;  but  thefe  were  chiefly  cadets  of 
the  family  of  Fowlis,  who  had  at  difierent  periods  derived 
their  pofl^ffiods  from  that  family ;  and,  when  thofe  fmall  he- 
ritors were  obliged  to  fell  off  their  lands,  they  have  reverted, 
by  purchafe,  to  the  original  proprietors.  The  valued  rent  of 
the  parifli  is  L.^ 3.1 49 : 9  : 6  Scots  \  the  real  rent  about  L.  1500 
Sterling.  Formerly,  the  greateft  part  of  the  rent  was  paid 
in  viftual ;  but  a  good  deal  of  the  vi£hial  is  now  converted* 

Vol.  L  Mm  h 


474  Stai0ical  Account 

It  is  not  eafy  to  fay  what  the  rate  of  converfion  is^  being  (&/-« 
ferent  on  the  properties  of  the  feveral  heritors.  In  ftating 
the  rent  of  the  parifh,  we  have  fet  no  value  on  the  exten- 
five  plantations  of  growing  timber^  which  muft  bring  a  con* 
fiderable  revenue  to  the  proprietors  in  a  few  years^  and  may 
probably  be  eftimated  at  L.  30,000.  As  the  greateft  part  of 
the  lands  in  the  parifli  have  been  meafured  by  furveyors,  we 
can  give  a  pretty  ezaft  account  of  the  number  of  acres  of  a« 
rable  ground,  which  are  reckoned  to  be  about  2250,  excla- 
five  of  woodlands  and  pafture  ground  that  has  never  been 
cultivated.  The  lands  have  let  at  various  prices ;  fome  acres 
at  20  s.  fome  at  ,17  s.  15  s.,  12  s.  10  s.  and  none  below  8s; 
but,  as  the  arable  and  pafture  grounds,  both  in  the  high  and 
low  diftrifts  of  the  parifh,  are  ufually  let  to  tenants  in  the 
lump,  without  diftinguifiiing  the  value  of  each  acre,  the 
above  eftimate  is  but  conjectural,  though  founded  on  the 
bed  information  that  can  be  had.  One  third  part  of  the 
whole  arable  land  in  the  parifb  is  now  in  the  pofleffion  of 
the  proprietors,  and  has  been  occupied  by  them  for  feverat 
years  pad.  How  far  this  may  be  favourable  to  their  interefts, 
they  will  be  beft  able  to  judge  when  they  fum  up  their  ac- 
counts of  profit  and  lo(s ;  but  it  is  the  prevailing  opinion  in 
this  country,  that  gentlemen  of  fortune  and  landed  property 
rather  lofe  than  gain  by  extenfive  farms.  No  doubt,  much 
depends  on  their  being  fortunate  in  getting  ikilfiil,  a£live, 
and  faithful  overfeers.  All  the  gentlemen's  farms  in  this  pa- 
viOi  are  at  prefent  managed,  either  by  natives  of  the  fouth  of 
Scotland,  or  by  perfons  bred  to  farming  there.  It  may  there- 
fore  be  expe&ed  that  the  fame  implements  of  hulbandry,  and 
the  fame  rotation  of  crops,  will  be  found  on  thofe  farms 
which  are  under  their  management,  as  we  fee  in  Fife  or  Eaft 
Lothian,  except  when  a  different  mode  of  farming  is  pur- 
fued,  to  gratify  the  views  of  the  proprietor.    The  next  in 

rank 


af  Kiltearn.  275 

rank  to  the  heritors  are  the  better  fort  of  farmers^  who  mxf 
be  thus  clalTed : 

Tenants  paying  about  L.  80  rent  •  •  % 

■  —  ■■        40  .  •  .  J 

!——  from  L.  20  to  10  .  •  •  9 

-— —         from  L.  10  tp    3         •  •  •         •        5$ 

The  principal  farmers  mentioned  above  keep  good  cattle  and 
farming  utenfils  ;  and  of  late  years  they  fow  fome  clover  and 
rye-grafs  feeds,  as  well  as  their  landlords.  They  are  alfo 
'ambitious  to  have  their  farms  properly  incbfed,  on  rea- 
fonable  terms  ;  but  the  other  clafles  of  tenants  confider  in- 
dofures  as,  a  grievancci  and  would  rather  partake  of  every' 
thing  in  common.  Their  cattle  are  alfo  of  an  inferior  fize  ; 
and  they  never  fow  grab  feeds  \  but,  inftead  of  this,  when 
their  land  is  exhaufted  by  a  repeated  fucceffion  of  crops, 
they  allow  it  to  lie  Ua  or  uatilled  for  two  or  three  years  ;  du- 
ring which  time  they  padure  it  till  it  gets  a  turf  again ;  and 
then  till  and  fow  it  with  oats,  and  4eave  another  piece  of 
ground  lea  In  its  turn.  It  Is  no  wonder  that  thcfe  farmers 
fhould  have  poor  returns  from  their  lands  \  for,  nothing  but 
fcanty  crops  can  be  expeAed  from  fuch  wretched  manage- 
ment. Another  dafs  of  people  flill  remains  to  be  mentioned, 
who,  though  they  cannot  be  ftrlAly  called  farmers,  are  fo  in 
part,  as  they  occupy  one,  two,  or  three  acres  of  ground. 
Thefe  are  commonly  called  cottars,  1.  e«  cottagers,  or  maiU 
tx%^  and  often  hold  of  the  principal  farmer.  They  do  not 
depend  on  farming  for  their  entire  fupport4  being,  in  ge- 
neral^ 


^y6  Siaii/lUal  Account 

tieralj  artificers,  mechanics,  or  day-labourers ;  and  thele  lail 
do.  more  juflice  to  their  lands,  ai\d  rear  better  crops  on 
their  fmall  lots  than  the  poor  tenants  do  on  larger  poflef- 
fions,  9  We  fhall  not  attempt  to  give  the  exaA  number  of  all 
the  cottars  and  mailers  in  the  parifh  ;  but  of  fuch  of  them  as 
are  artificers  and  mechanics,  together  with  fheir  apprentices, 
the  following  is  a  complete  lid. 


Blackfmiths         .         ,    , 

3 

Taylors 

8 

Mafons  and  flaters 

M 

Shoemakers 

•    9 

Joiners  and  coopers 

8 

Millers 

3 

Cart-wrights 

4 

Shopkeepers 

.      4 

Weaver*        . 

6 

Apprentices 

.         3^ 

Dyer        . 

I 

Bleacher 

I 

We  may  obferve,  that,  as  the  above  number  of  mecha- 
nics cannot  be  fuppofed  to  find  cpnftant  employment  in  the 
pari(h,  they  work  opcaiionally  in  th^  neighbourhood,  and 
employ  their  leifurc  hours  in  cultivating  their  fmall  lou  of 
land,  where  potatoes  are  always  th^  ftaple  crop.  Among 
fuch  a  number  of  farmers  as  we  have  defcribed,  there  mud 
\^  various  methods  of  culture-  On  the  farnu  of  the  bet- 
ter fort,  i|  U  common  to  fee  t^o  ftrong  horfes  yoked  in  the 
plough,  under  the  management  of  ^  fing)e  ploaghman,  or 
ijx  oxen  yo^ed  in  fucpeffive  pairs,  whicli  require  a  driver. 
Others,  again,  join  two  horfes  and  two  oxen,  believing  that 
the  fprightlinefs  of  the  horfes  will  carry  forward  the  oxen 
with  more  alacrity.  But  the  poorer  tenants  yoke  in  one 
plough,  horfes,  oxen,  and  cowsj  promifcuoufly,  which  often 
exhibit  a  miferable  fpeAade,  and  clparly  Ihews  that  they  are 
snore  folicitous  to  increafe  the  number,  than  improve  the 
quality  of  theu*  cattle.    Within  a  dozen  years^  an  unproTC- 

meat 


tf  Kiliearn.  ayy 

fftent  has  been  introduced,  which  dcrcrvcs  to  be  peculiarly 
attended  to,  as  it  has  anfwered  all  the  good  purpofes  that 
were  expe£led  from  it,  viz.  The  oxen  are  now  hamefled 
by  many  farmers  in  the  fame  manner  as  horfcs,  which  they 
work  in  the  plough ;  the  confequence  is,  that  the  animal 
draws  with  more  power,  and  alfo  with  more  Teeming  eafe  to 
itfelf,  than  when  it  was  yoked  by  the  neck.  And,  to  pre- 
vent any  inconveniency  arifing  from  the  horns  of  the  ox  in 
putting  on  the  collar,  there  is  a  flrap  and  buckle  ufed,  by 
which  the  collar  opens  and  (huts.  The  prevailing  opinioa 
feems  to  be  in  favour  of  labouring  with  oxen  rather  than 
horfcs,  which  are  liable  to  fo  many  accidents,  and  a  certain 
lofs  in  the  end  )  but  it  has  fared  with  this,  as  with  many  o- 
tber  juft  maxims,  it  is  more  readily  aifented  to  in  fpeculation 
tjian  reduced  to  praAice.  There  are  about  lo  oxen  wains 
liow  in  this  parish,  befides  30  coops  or  box  carts,  drawn  by 
two  horfes,  employed  by  the  proprietors  and  principal  farm- 
ers, i^bput  twenty  years  ago,  there  were  fcarccly  half  that 
number*  There  are  near  100  ploughs  of  all  forts,  but  many 
of  them  very  light  and  trifling.  Befides  the  carts  now  men- 
tioned,  there  are  about  300  fmall  rung  carts,  as  they  are 
called,  which  are  employed  in  leading  home  the  fuel  from 
tbe  mofsj  and  the  corn  to  the  barn-yard.  Thefe  carts  have, 
];iftead  of  wheels,  fmall  folid  circles  of  wood,  between  ao 
^d  24  ipches  diamptcr,  called  tumbling  wheels.  It  is  alfb 
very  common  to  p|ace  a  coarfp,  firong  bafket,  formed  like  a 
fugar  loaf,  ^crofs  thefe  fmall  carts,  In  which  the  manure  is 
carried  from  the  <)unghill  fo  the  field.  Thefe  kinds  of  carts 
are  called  Kellachys  \  and  are  not  only  ufed  in  this  diftrift, 
t)at  over  all  the  north  country.  To  form  fome  idea  of  the 
ihne  of  farming  in  thb  diftriA,  we  fubjoin  the  following  ab-» 
finafi  of  t^ie  m;^mer  in  which  the  ground  is  laid  down,  toge- 
■'  '  .  '  thcr 


sis  StatlfiiciU  Account 

tber  with  the  proportions  which  the  ieveral  crops  bear  14 
each  other. 

Acres. 

Sown  with  oats,  about  •  .  •  looo 

— -     barley  ,  .  .  •  .  500 

■  pcafe  .  .  .  .  120 
i-*-*  clover  and  rye  grafs  •  •  300 
potatoes            .            •            •            •         140 

—  turnips  .  .             .  •  30 

—  wheat  .  •            »  .  30 

■  beans  •  .  .  •  10 
— —  flax  •            •            .  •  6 

—  rye  ,  .  .  .  .20 
«— —     leas  ^         f            •            •            •            *      94 

2250 
The  average  returns  from  the  above  fowings  are  very  incon- 
fiderable.  The  barley  yields  only  about  5,  and  the  oats  4 
returns.  HencCi  even  in  the  bef^  years,  the  parifli  can  fpare 
very  little  corn  for  the  market.  The  rcafon  why  flax  and 
wheat  are  fo  little  cultivated  in  the  parifl)|  is  the  want  of 
mills  to  manufaAure  thcfc  articles. 

Price  of  Labour  and  Prevjjioru. — ^Thc  wages  paid  to  fcr- 
yants  engaged  in  domedic  employments  vary  according  to 
the  circumftances  of  their  mafters ;  but  the  wages  of  thofe 
fervants  who  are  employed  in  the  labours  of  the  field  can  be 
more  eafily  afcertained.  Of  j^hefe  laft  mentioned,  (bme  eat 
in  their  matter's  houfe,  but  by  far  the  greateft  number  live 
in  cottages  of  their  own,  and  receive  6  bolls  of  meal  inftead 
of  board,  and  L.  3  pounds  Sterling  of  wages  annually.  This 
is  the  average  rate  for  ordinary  ploughmen  and  carters.  From 
(bif  rulei  however,  there  are  many  exceptions*  A  plough- 
man 


tf  Ktliearn.  «?f§ 

than  who  exceb  fometimes  get  L.  ;  or  L«  6  wages,  and  8  <hr 
lo  bolls  of  meal.  Befides  the  above,  every  man  fervant  has 
the  privilege  of  planting  abont  half  a  boll  of  potatoes  for  his 
own  ufei  rent  free.  The  ufual  wages  of  female  fervants  ia 
farmers  houfes  is  from  L.  i  :  4  :  o  to  L.  i :  lo :  o  yearly.  The 
common  method  of  managing  the  harveft  work  is  to  hire 
a  certain  numb^  of  (hearers  for  the  harveft  quarter,  pro- 
portioned to  the  iize  of  the  farm  :  This  is  the  old  cnftom. 
The  men  get  about  a  boll  and  an  half,  and  the  women  a  boU 
of  meal,  inftead  of  meat  and  wages,  during  the  harveft  fea- 
fon.  But  the  a£cive  and  intelligent  part  of  the  farmers  begin 
to  Tee  the  inconvenience  of  the  above  praAice  ^  becaufe,  while 
they  are  confined  to  a  few  hands,  they  may  lo(e  by  one  ftor* 
my  day  as  much  as  would  defray  the  whole  charges  of  cut* 
ting  down  the  crops.  Hence^  they  now  hire  their  (hearers 
for  the  day,  and  increafe  or  diminl(h  their  number  according 
to  the  (hte  of  their  crops.  This  is  evidently  the  more  ra« 
tional  plan  of  the  two.  The  men  receive  7  d.  per  day,  and 
the  women  6  d.  The  price  of  mowing  hay  is  ufually  Ironi 
2s«  ad.  to  as.  6d.  per  acre.  Day  labourers  receive  for  or- 
dinary work  6  d.  per  day  all  the  year  through,  and  fomething 
extraordinary  if  their  labour  is  harder  than  ufual.  They  are^ 
more  willing,  however,  to  work  by  the  piece  \  and  then  they 
will  earn,  perhaps,  i  s.  and  upwards  per  day.  Trenching 
ground  about  18  inches  deep,  if  it  be  free  from  roots  and 
ftones,  cofts  4  d.  the  rood  of  6  yards  fquare  ^  but,  if  the  foil 
is  rugged,  and  hard  to  work,  it  cofts  8  d.  The  price  of  grain^ 
meal,  and  all  forts  of  provifions,  has  been  gradually  ad« 
vaocing  for  feveral  years,  and  is  not  likely  to  fall.  Pcr« 
haps  the  average  price  of  barley  and  oat-meal,  for  20  years 
paft,  has  been  about  14  s^,  per  boll.  This  obfervation,  and 
what  follows  refpefting  the  price  of  provifions,  holds  true 
with  regard  to  a  confiderable  part  of  the  county  of  Rofs,  as 

weU 


^tm  Siatifiscai  Aec^nt 

wdl  as  the  pariih  of  Kiltearn.  Nothing  can  give  a  better 
idea  of  the  advanced  price  of  provifionsi  than  the  following 
comparative  view  of  the  price  of  fome  neceiTary  articles  of 
living  in  1760  and  1790* 


Prices  in  1760. 

Prices  in  1790. 

Bollofbarleji  or  oat-meal  L.  0  10  0 

L.  0  t6  0 

Highland  cow        •         •          i   16  0 

300 

Beef  and  mutton  per  lb*            0    0  i  ^ 

0    0  2ito  3d. 

Fowls  each            •         •         0    0  ij 

0    0  4   to  5d. 

Stone  of  botteri  of  a  i  lb.          060 

0  12  to  149. 

0    4  to  5  s* 

The  above  advan^ced  price  of  provlfions  muft  be  fenCbly  felt 
bj  perfons  whofe  incomes  are  ftationary,  and  who  have  no 
means  of  improving  them. 

Poor, — ^There  is  little  difference  as  to  the  method  of  pro- 
viding for  the  poor  in  the  feveral  pariHies  of  this  county,  but 
What  arifes  from  the  largenefs  or  fmallnefs  of  the  funds  ap- 
propriated for  that  purpofe.  It  is  truly  matter  of  regret, 
that  no  proper  and  effe£lual  fcheme  has  ever  been  deviled 
among  us  tb  provide  for  the  poor.  At  prefent  they  chiefly 
fubfift  by  begging  from  door  to  door,  not  only  in  the  relpec* 
tive  parilhes  to  which  they  belong,  but  over  all  the  county; 
and  it  would  feem  hard' to  prohibit  them  from  begging,  as 
they  have  no  alternative  but  to  ftarve.  The  weekly  collec- 
tions made  in  the  churches  are  very  inadequate  to  the  pur- 
pofe of  fupporting  the  poor  in  any  of  our  pariihes.  In  this 
parifh,  the  coUe£tions  never  exceed  L.  8  or  L.  10  Sterling 
yearly.  About  L.  6  arifes  from  charitable  mortifications, 
which,  added  to  the  above,  makes  the  whole  fund  for  the 
poor  about  L.  zj.    After  paying  the  feifion-clerk|  and  fome 

other 


t>f  Kilieam.  a8i 

tttbcr  oifecers  of  the  church,  there  remains  only  about  L.  lo 
Sterling,  ^hich  is  cliftributed  once  a  year  among  the  moft . 
tadigent  perfons  of  the  parifti  by  the  kirk-fcffion,  in  prcfcncc 
of  the  heritors.  But  how  fmall  a  relief  can  this  afford, 
when  there  arc  ufoally  above  lOo  pcrions  upon  the  poor's 
lift  here,  Who  have  every  clahn  to  charity  that  indigence,  and 
inHrmity  can  give  them  ?  nor  vrill  it  appear  furprifing  that 
the  poor's  roll  in  this  place  ibonld  be  fo  large,  when  it  is  re- 
coHcfled  that  there  arc  jKJ  widows  in  it. 

Riviri^  Lahis^  and  FiJhrUs^r^ Among  the  feveral  ftrcam* 
of  water  which  run  through  this  pariih,  only  two  of  them 
dcferve  to  be  mentioned.  Firft,  Skiak,  which  falls  into  the 
iia,  clofc  by  the  churcbu  The  banks  on  both  fides  arc  cover-, 
cd  with  brnihwood  and  trees  of  various  kinds,  nu)ft  of  which 
grow  naturally.  This  river  being  traqed  to  hs  fource,  is  found, 
to  terminate  in  a  collection  of  fmall  ftreams  that  meet  toge- 
ther in  the  valleys,  at  the  foot  of  the  feveral  mountains.  The 
other  river  which  we  ffaall  mention  is  Aultgrande,  i.  e,  in 
Gaelic,  the  ug^y  wafer^  or  ium,  fo  called  on,  account  of  fome* 
rockr  throfigh  which  it  runs  down,  that  make  a  very  formi- 
dable appcarancCv  whkh  will  be  more  particularly  delcribed 
under  the  article  Curif/ltief.  This  river  falls  into  the  fea 
about  half  a  mUc  eaft  ci  the  former,  and  has  its  banks  on 
each  fide  covered  with  trees  and  (hrubs.  When  the  fnow 
meks  on  the  mountains,  this  river  frequently  pours  down 
its  ftreams  with  great  rapidity,  and  often  proves  highly 
detrimental  to  the  adjacent  lands.  It  takes  its  rife  in 
Loch  Glafs,  a  beautiful  firefli  water  lake  about  6  miles  from 
the  Tea.  This  lake  never  fireezes  till  about  the  fpring  feafon, 
and  DOC  even  then,  unlefs  the  firoft  be  uncommonly  fevere. 
k  is  about  5  miles  long,  and  near  i  mile  broad,  and  navi* 
gabk  all  the  way,    ThiS|  together  with  (everal  other  fmaller 

Vol..  I.  N  n  lakes 


38^2  Statijtioal  Accmmt 

lakes  fituated  upon  the  north  fide  of  Ben-Uaiihy  aflSards  abmi^ 
dance  of  fine  trouti  though  they  are  not  of  a  large  fise«  There 
k  a  fmall  ifland  near  the  fouth  end  of  this  lake»  whera  it  is^ 
faid  one  of  the  lairdt  of  Fowlis  had  formerly  a  (hmmcr- 
hottfe.  BeCdes  the  trout  taken*  m  the  risers  and  lakca^  there 
are  a  good  number  of  fatmon  caught  on  the  lea  coaft, 
ibmetimes  by  nets  and  cobles,  called  a  ^fiMffinng^  bot  chie£> 
ly  by  means  of  jraires,  or  fmall  iodofures,  buUt  in  a  corre  or 
femicircular  form  near  the  (bore*  At  high  water  the  ialmon 
comes  within  thefe  yaires,  and  at  low  water  is  eafily  taken, 
having  no  way  to  eTcape-  This  b  the  fimplcft  and  cheapeft 
mode  of  fifhing  that  cart  be  deidicd.  There  are  uTiiaHy  feur 
or  five  yaires  kept  up  in  the  parifli ;  and  each  proprietor 
takes  fifh  enough  to  fupply  himielf  and  a  fcw  friends.  In  a 
argood  filling  ftafim*  he  can- fend  feme  to  market.  Flour* 
ders,  herring-fry,  or  fprats^  are  frequently  taken  in  thefe 
yaires. 

FcffUs^Mines^  and  Mimrab,-^lx^  diggmg  bt  peats  in  Ac 
mofles  of  this  pariih,  numbers  of  fir  trees  are  founds  which' 
irf&rd  a  clear  proof  that  thofe  extcnfive  traAs  of  ground  were 
once  covered  with*treeS|  which  muft  have  added  much  to  the 
•beauty'of  the  country,,  and  have  been  ihelter  to  the  cattk. 
Thefe  trees  that  are  dug  out  of  the  mofles  are  perfrAly  foimd, 
and  lafl  long  when  applied  to  the  purpoie  of  building.  One 
chief  benefit  derived  from  them  is,  that  they  bum  wctt,  and 
aflfbrd  excellent  light  to  the  country  people,  who  cannot  af* 
ford  to  buy  candles.  Clay  and  ihell  marl  are  to  be  found  in 
this  parifh«  The  clay  marl  is  met  with  in  a  mois  called 
Soginturie,  upon  the  eflate  of  Fowlis,  3  miles  diftant  from 
the  fea  (liore.  There  is  abundance  of  it ;  and  it  has  anfwcred 
well  with  thofe  who  have  tried  it.  It  will  probably  come  in- 
to more  repute  in  proportion  as  the  true  notion  of  fiuming 

prevaOs. 


'prmdls.  The  ibtU  marl^  though  <^  an  tzceUent  quality^ 
^does  not  afford  ft  rich  a  lupplf  as  the  other»  as  there  is  onlf 
ar  fmall  vein  that  appears  near  the  church,  and  is  found  in 
•the  (aoie  direfiion  about  the  weft  end  of  the  pari(h.  It  is 
pretty  remarkable  that  this  fhell  marl  is  found  at  the  diftance 
of  about  200  yards  from  the  fea,  and  at  leaft  30  feet  perpen- 
dicular above  its  level.  There  are  very  flattering  appear* 
aoces  of  coal  in  all  the  weftem  part  cf  tlie  pariflii  from  the 
fea  to  the  hills.  Several  years  ago,  one  or  two  attempts  were 
made  to  diicover  a  proper  mine,  but  it  was  not  purfued  with 
that  ardour  and  perfeverance  which  the  importance  of  the 
^bje£l  defewed.  The  perfop  formerly  employed  only  bored 
in  a  or  3  places.  They  acknowledged  that  they  found  coal* 
•^nt  pretended  it  lay  io  deep,  that  unlefs  the  vein  was  confide- 
rable,  it  would  not  pay  the  expence  of  working ;  but  we  can« 
not  help  fufpeAing  that  they  knew  but  little,  and  prefumed  a 
great  deal.  Confidering,  however,  the  public  fpirit  and  iade* 
.pendent  fortunes  of  feveral  gentlemen  concerned,  it  is  to  be 
hoped  that  they  will  once  more  make  a  fair  trial  of  the  coal 
mines  in  this  diftriA,  by  finkmg  one  or  two  pits,  and  employ- 
ing feme  Ikillful  hands  for  a  few  months  to  work  in  the 
mines,  and  afcertain  the  value  of  the  coal.  The  expence 
would  not  be  very  greats  The  attempt  would  at  leaft  be  lau- 
dable, and  moft  probably  would  be  crowned  with  fuccefs.  In 
a  rock  on  the  banks  of  Aultnacaorach,  i.  e,  ihtjbeef  burn^  (a 
rivulet  that  falls  into  Aultgrande),  there  are  indications  of 
lead  ore.  The  only  .trial  ever  made  of  it  was  about  36  years  agOj 
by  one  Charles  Smithy  a  common  miner,  who  fmelted  a  piece 
of  the  ore  taken  from  this  rock,  which  produced  good  lead« 
Near  the  ftcrehoufe  of  Fowlis  there  is  a  chalybeate  fpring, 
which  has  been  drank  with  falutary  effects  about  60  years 
ago.  There  is  another  fpring  at  Teinleod,  above  Fowlis 
ijC^^AIe^  called  Sit  Colman's  Well.    Whether  it  has  any  me- 

jdicin4 


SS4  StatijUcalJctwit 

dictnal  vlrtise  we  have  not  heard ;  bat  it  imz  coxnmon  pne- 
tjce,  in  the  memory  of  fome  ftill  alive,  tor  foperftitioas  per- 
fens  to  frequent  the  well,  and,  after  drinking  the  water,  to 
tye  Tome  rags  to  the  branches  of  the  fumMinding  trees. 

Roads  and  Bridges. — ^Very  particular  attention  has  been  paid 
of  late  years  to  the  roads  in  this  diftriA ;  and  the  bridges  have 
been  widened  for  the  convenicncy  of  carriages.  The  new 
bridge  over  Aulrgrande  is  remarkably  neat,  and  well  fini(bed» 
and  does  credit  to  Mr  Kyle,  the  arcfaite^V,  who  built  it.  AU 
the  bridges  are  bulk  and  kept  in  repair  at  the  expence  of  the 
county.  The  roads  are  kept  i^  repair  by  the  ftatute  labour, 
which  the  inhabitants  perform  perfonally,  s^nd  very  feldom 
by  commutation.  An  improvement  is  now  making  on  the 
road  that  leads  through  this  parKh,  which  will  add  much  to 
the  pleafure  and  comfort  of  travellers.  The  chief  heritor 
has,  at  a  confiderable  expence,  carried  off*  the  road  in  a  (Weep 
or  curve,  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  farther  fouth  than  it  was 
formerly*  By  this  means,  travellers  will  not  only  pais  througl\ 
the  middle  of  rich  fields  and  fine  plantations  of  trees,  hot 
will  alfo  have  a  full  view  of  that  antient  and  elegant  manfioa, 
Fowlis  Caftle.  This  improved  road  was  begun  in  1790^  and 
will  be  completed  in  the  courfe  of  1791. 

Villages^  Schools,  55*  Manufa^ures,^^ThcTe  is  only  one  fmal^ 
village  in  the  parilh,  called  Drummoud,  Qtuated  in  a  level 
field  contiguous  to  the  river  Skiack.  This  village  is  yet  iq 
its  infancy ;  but,  as  the  fituation  of  it  is  centrical^  and  a* 
greeable,  being  on  the  poftroad  between  Dingwall  and  Nor 
var  Inn,  there  is  every  reafon  to  believe  that  it  will  increafe 
coniiderably  in  a  few  years.  At  prefent,  there  is  a  public 
houfe,  two  (hop.  keepers,  a  dyer  of  woolen  ftufis,  who  keeps 
a  prefs  and  fcourlog-mill  i  and  a  few  other  mechanics.    Two 

hilt 


if  Kittearn.  985 

fmn  or  markets  are  hdd  here  annually ;  the  one  early 
ui  June,  and  the  other  the  firft  week  in  December,  where 
black  cattle  and  other  country  commodities  are  fold  | 
and,  though  the  proprietor  exacts  no  toll  or  ci^ftom,  he 
inaintains  a  guard  while  the  market  lafts,  to  keep  order,  and 
prevent  riots.  The  fair  in  December  is  known  by  the  name 
of  the  Goofe-market.  But,  as  no  gecfe  are  fold  at  ic,  the 
name  Goofe- market  has  probably  taken  its  rife  from  an  eit* 
fertainment  ufually  given  by  the  gentlemen  of  the  parifh  to 
^he  principal  inhabitants  on  the  fecond  day  of  the  markei;^ 
where  a  goofc  (being  then  in  feafon,)  always  makes  a  part  of 
the  leaft.  On  this  occafion,  there  is  no  exceis  in  drinking 
encouraged ;  and  the  company  meet  merely  for  the  fake  of 
ibcial  intercourfe.  Adjoining  to  the  village  of  Drummond 
is  the  parifh  fchool^  which  is  commonly  attended  by  60  or 
So  children,  and  often  by  a  much  greater  number.  The  (su 
iary  paid  by  the  heritors  to  the  mafter  is  a  chalder  of  barley  % 
and,  as  precenter  and  feifion*clerk,  his  emoluments  will  a« 
mount  to  about  h»  4>  befides  the  quarter-fee?  paid  by  the 
Scholars,  which  are  as  low  and  moderate  as  any  where  in  Scot- 
land ;  £ngli(h  being  taught  for  1  s*  per  quarter ;  writing 
I s. 6 d. ;  arithmetic  2 s. ;  and  Latin  as.  6d.  It  is  no  more 
than  juftice  to  fay  that  the  education  of  youth  is  at  prefent 
conduced  at  the  fchool  upon  the  moft  approved  plan,  and 
with  correfpondent  fuccefs.  To  which  we  may  add,  that, 
Jjefides  what  is  ufually  taught  at  grammar  ichook,  feveral  o* 
ther  branches  of  ufeful  icience  and  literature  are  taught  her^, 
fuch  as  the  French  language,  geography,  geometry,  book« 
keeping,  and  the  difierent  branches  of  practical  mathema* 
tJC8«  This  deferves  the  more  to  be  remarked,  becaufe  iq 
lew  country  pariihes  are  favoured  with  iimilar  advantages 
iFor  educating  their  youth.  Within  a  quarter  of  a  mile  of  the 
Tillage  of  Drummoady  to  t]^  cafti  pp  the  iarm  of  Uppqr 

Balcony^ 


•S6  SiOiyUcal  AccmH 

BakoDjr,  there  is  a  Ucenied  diftillerj  for  aquavitae  or  whifty^ 
which  pays  L.  30,  and  confumes  about  180  bolls  of  barley 
yearly ;  but  It  is  much  to  be  regretted  that  a  great  quantity 
of  fpiriCSf  befide  the  whole  produce  of  this  diftillery.  Is  coo* 
iumed  within  the  parifli.  On  the  oppofice  fide  of  the  river, 
and  clofe  to  the  New  Bridge,  is  Culcaira  Bleachfield,  the 
only  one  in  the  county.  This  bleachfield  was  firft  efia- 
MiQied  by  the  late  John  Munro,  Efq;  of  Cukaim,  fiuher  of 
the  prefent  proprietor  of  that  name,  in  I75i«  Though  it 
promtfed  weU  for  federal  years,  yet  it  afterwards  dedioed 
much,  while  it  pafled  through  the  hands  of  difiia-ent  maoa^ 
gers«  In  the  year  17791  ^^  fortunately  fell  into  the  K^uih 
of  the  prefent  manager,  William  Tait,  from  Salton  Bleach- 
fidd  in  Eaft  Lothian.  The  proprietor,  obferving  that  Mr 
Tait  was  not  deficient,  either  in  ikill  or  aOivity,  refolved  to 
^ve  him  every  encouragement,  granted  him  a  leafe  of  the 
bleachfield,  and  built  a  comfortable  houfe  for  him.  A  clear 
proof  of  the  rapid  progrefi  this  field  has  made  under  the 
prcfent  manager  is,  that,  in  the  year  1779,  there  were  only 
440  pieces  of  cloth  bleached  here;  but,  in  the  year  1790, 
the  number  of  pieces  ^mounted  to  2242.  The  Hono«vable 
Board  of  Tniftees,  being  well  informed  of  Mr  Tait's  indus- 
try and  fuccefs,  were  plcafed,  in  1786,  to  grant  L«  50  for 
erefiing  a  drying  houfe.  And  it  is  not  doubted  that,  on  a 
p»per  reprefentation,  they  will  give  fome  further  aid  to- 
wards  fetting  up  proper  machinery,  and  a  complete  bleaching 
apparatus,  at  this  very  flourifiiing  field. 

Inns  and  AU^boufes. — ^There  are  only  two  licenfed  ale-hoo- 
fcs  in  the  parifh  which  pay  excife-duty  ;  one  at  Drummond, 
and  the  other  at  Wefter  Fowlis.  Thefe  arc  neceflTary  for  the 
accommodation  of  travellers,  and  for  tranfaSdng  conmry 
bttfinefs.    But  there  are  a  number  of  blind  whifty  hos(e$, 

fituatcd 


itnatted  In  obfcure  corners,  at  a  diflance  from  the  puldie 
road*  Thefe  laft  are  much  frequented  by  tipplers^  and  dram« 
drinkers,  who  rometiaies  fit  up  whole  nights  at  their  debauch*  ; 
Such  tippling-houfes  have  proved  a  great  nuifance  for  JCeyenA 
jears  paft,  and  have  been  very  prejudicial  ta  the  health,  the 
morals,  and  the  circumftances,  of  ieveral  inhabitants  of  this 
parilh.  It  is  not  uncotnmoa  to  fee  two  mechanics,  or 
day*  labourers,  repairing  once  or  twice  a- day  to  one  of  th^ 
enfnaring  hauuts,  and  dripking  a  choppin  bottle  of  unmixed 
whifky  at  each  time,  with  as  great  eafe  as  their  forefathers 
would  drink  a  Scots  pint  of  twopenny  ale,  or  finall  beer. 
What  adds  ta  the  grievance  is,  that  the  keepers  of  thefe  com 
rupting  haunts  arc  not  always  very  fcrupulous  as  u>  the  mode 
of  receiving  payment  for  their  drink.  When  money  fails, 
they  wiH  receive  meal  and  victual  at  a  low  price,  which  is 
often  ftolen  from  the  mills,  and  farmers  barns*  When' this 
refource  fails,  they  receive  houfehold  fbrniture,  and  wearing 
apparel.  An  evil  that  has  come  to  fuch  a  height  loudly  calls  • 
for  the  interpofition  of  the  civil  magiftrate ;  and  it  is  a  great 
pity  that  the  gentlemen  of  the  diitridt  who  are  juftices  of  the 
peace,  and  are  remarkably  temperate  themfelves,  have  not 
made  greater  exertions  to  fupgrifs  this  growing  evil* 

Advantages  and  Difadvaniagn.'^ As  it  is  the  CQnnnon  lol, 
of  mankind  to  have  their  condition  in  this  world  checquer** 
ed  with  a  mixture  of  good  and  evil,  fo  it  cannot  be  denie<i 
that  the  inhabitants  of  Kiltearn  have  their  own  ihare,^  botb 
of  the  advantages  and  difadvantages  of  life.  It  is  a  very  btm 
vourable  circumftance  for  this  pari(b,  that  it  is  fituated  oa 
a  beautiful  bay,  and  within  four  leagues  of  Cromarty  v  hoxm 
which  place  there  is  a  communication  by  fea  once  every  fort« 
night  to  London  and  Leith.  Beiides,  there  are  three  (everak 
harbours  in  the  partfli^  viz.  at  Balcony,  FowIls,.aad  ArduUift 

point. 


m  Siatijilcal  Accmii 

point,  where  veflels  from  80  to  100  toils  borden  may  load 
tod  unload,  and  anchor  with  the  greateft  fafety,  as  there  are 
Ho  dangerous  rocks  or  (helves  near  the  fhore.    Excellent  free* 
ftone  quarries,  thai  are  eaCly  wrought,  are  to  be  met  in  e* 
very  comer  of  the  pari(h.     This  circnmftance,  added  to  the 
abundance  of  timber,  affords  great  encouragement  to  carry 
old  buildings,  and  other  improvements.     The  advantages  of 
education  which  are  to  be  ^ad  at  the  public  ichools  here,  is 
avery  encouragmg  circnmftance  to  determine  fuch  as  have 
fifing  families  to  fettle  among  us.     The  prevailing  tafte  for 
btiildidgs  and  improvements  among  the  gentlemen  of  the  pa- 
fl&  is  a  gr^t  bleffing  to  artificers  axid  day-labourers ;  which 
vfas   particularly 'experienced  in  the  hard  years   1782  and 
1783  5  being,  under  God,  the  mean  of^  prcfcrving  many  &. 
tniiics  ffbm  perifliing  for  want  of  brdad.     But,  as  the  gentle- 
inen's  improvements  will  foon  be  completed,  many  hands 
who  are  now  employed  will  be  at  a  lofs  to  provide  for  them- 
/elves  and  their  families,  unlcfs  fome  manufaftures  arc  fpecd- 
ii^  eftibliflied  ;  ahd,  cbnfiderlng  the  great  number  of  women 
in  th^  parilh,  it  would  be  dcfirable  that  fome  manufaaure 
Aould  be  Introduced  to  employ  the  females,  and  children  of 
both  fcxes  ;  for  it  is  a  hard'cafc,  ^hen  a  labouring  man  is 
unable  to  work,  by  age  or  ficknefs,  that  his  family  has  no 
means  of  earning  a  fubfiftcncc,  however  unwilling  to  work. 
This,  leads  us  td  mention  another  difadvantage  which  the  poor 
women  labour  under  here,  which  is,  that  they  feldom  have 
proper  affiftance  when  in  child-bcd,  as  there  is  no  regularly 
bred  midwife  m  the  parifli.     This  often  proves  of  faul  con- 
icquence  to  women  in  that  fituation,  which,  of  all  others, 
rttquire  the  moft  tender  care,  as  well  as  fkill.     It  is  alfo 
much  to  be  wifhed  that  the  inhabitants  in  general  were  better 
lodged  than  they  can  poffibly  be  iA  their  prefcnt  huts.    In  no 
^untry,  perhaps,  are  the  gentlemen  better  lodged,  and  the 
'  tenants 


tfKHteoMu  %t^ 

ietents  worie  accomthodated,  than  in  this  parifli ;  for,  wha 
couM  fuppofe  that,  among  the  385  honfes  in  the  pari{h»  there 
are  not  forty,  in  which  a  perfon  accuftooied  to  a  decent  ac^ 
commodation,  would  choofe  to  lodge  a  iingle  night.  Per- 
haps their  being  fo  frequently  obliged  to  remove  their  cottar 
ges  makes  them  lefs  folicitous  to  hate  them  comfortably 
built.  The  greateft,  number  are  built  of  earth,  and  are  ufu* 
ally  razed  to* the  ground  once  in  5  or  7  years,  when  they  ard 
added  to  the  dunghiU.  Indeed,  they  cannot  afford  to  build 
them  of  better  materials,  not  even  with  clay  and  ilone  |  and 
yet,  as  a  proof  of  the  late  increale  of  population,  when  any 
of  thefe  mean  huts  become  vacant^  there  are  perhaps  five  or 
fix  candidates  for  them  \  and  the  fucceisfui  one  is  fuppo- 
led  to  owe  the  preference  to  fuperior  intereft^  But^  among 
the  chief  difadvantagcs  of  this  partfli  may  be  reckoned  the 
extreme  poverty  of  many  who  become  farmers^  Too  many 
afitime  this  character  who  have  hardly  any  ftbtk  to  begia 
with  ;  and  the  coniequence  is,  that,  after  (Iruggling  for  a 
few  years  to  keep  crediti-^they  at  laft  iihk  under  the  load  of 
poverty,  while  the  landlord  has  a  long  arrear  of  retlt  due  to 
him*  hi  a  word,  it  cannot  be  denied  that  many  among  us 
have  the  name  of  farmers  who  ought  more  properly  to  bt 
day- labourers.  Indeed,  fome  of  their  own  hired  lervants 
have  the  neceiTaries  of  life  with  a  greater  degree  of  comfort 
than  their  matters,  the  farmers*  Oiie  circumftance  vtxj  pre« 
judicial  to  the  farmers  b,  that  they  are  too  much  at  the 
mercy  of  their  fervants*  When  a  fervant  engages  with  a 
poor  farmer,  he  bribes  him  with  a  promife  of  high  wages  % 
and,  when  money  fails,  he  allows  his  fin^ant  to  fo#  a  quan- 
tity of  com  for  his  own  ufe,  and  to  keep  a  cow  in  fummer^ 
and  perhaps  two  or  three  in  winter,  on  the  farm,  which 
brings  certain  ruin  upon  the  tenant  in  the  end.  We  will  add^ 
that  it  is  a  great  lofs  to  have  fo  few  juilices  of  peace  in  the 
Vot.  L  O  o  diftrirt 


dgb  StaH/Hcal  Accdunt 

diftrift  to  take  cognizance  of  this  and  other  grierancef.  Ttt 
\zi\  particular  we  ihall  mention,  under  the  bead  of  difadTan- 
tage,  is  not  confined  to  this  pariih  only,  but  is  equally  felt  in 
the  parifhes  around  us,  viz.  the  pcrfbnal  fervice  of  the  te* 
nants.  Thefc,  however,  were  formerly  more  grievous  than 
at  preftnt ;  for  it  is  not  long  fince  the  farmers,  their  fcrvants, 
and  horfes.  muft  have  been  ready  at  a  call  from  the  laird 
when  he  had  any  operations  to  Carry  on  on  his  farm,  or  o- 
thcrwife.  They  ploughed,  harrowed,  manured,  and  reaped^ 
the  landlord's  farm,  while  their  own  were  often  negleded. 
Here,  however,  we  muft  obferve,  that,  in  former  times, 
thefe  fervices,  though  a  burden,  were  not  fuch  a  grievance 
as  they  would  be  now.  The  rents  were  then  Tow,  and  mo- 
ney fcarce.  Hence  the  iervices  made  a  confidcrablc  part  of 
the  revenue  which  landlords  derived  from  their  lands.  Bat 
now  the  cafe  is  altered  i  and,  wherever  tenants  are  expcAed 
to  thrive,  perfonal  fervices  muft  be  difpenfed  with,  and 
commuted,  lliat  which  has  been  longeft  kept  up,  is  the 
providing  a  certain  quantity  of  peats  or  fuel  for  the  mafler 
yearly,  which  interferes  much  with  the  labours  of  the  huf^ 
bandman,  as  his  whole  time  is  employed  in  providm^^  his 
own  and  his  landlord's  fuel,  from  the  time  the  feed  is  fown 
till  the  beginning  of  harveft.  Thus,  he  iofes  all  that  time  in 
which  he  ought  jto  provide  manure  for  his  land.  The  per* 
fonal  fervices  of  the  tenants  are,  however,  always  limited, 
and  as  exuAly  known  as  the  rent  of  the  farm.  Some  propri- 
etors of  lands  in  the  parlQi  have  begun,  of  late,  to  accept  of 
a  convcrfion  for  all  fcivices,  and  alio  to  grant  leafcs  to  the 
Induftrious  part  of  the  farmers.  If  thefe  convcrfions  were 
modcratevand  if  the  tenants  were  encouraged  to  build  decent 
houfes,  it  would  conduce  to  the  comfort  of  the  farmer,  and 
the  iDtereft  of  the  landlord. 


*^  jf  Kilteartti     n  99^ 

Lanp$fi%t^  9^  Etymology  of  Names.'^Tht  laziguage  com- 
monly fpoken  hiere  is  the  Gaelic^  or  Karfe  ;  but«  of  late  years^ 
the  Englifli  begins  to  be  more  cultivated  than  formeriy,  and. 
i$  underftood  by  the  generality  of  the  inhabitants.  The 
cjiurch  feryice  is  pe;rformed  bere»  as  in  the  greatefl  part  of. 
the  county,  in  Q^elic  in  tbp  forpnoo%  an4  in  Englifli  in  the 
aftCTDQoq. 

The  names  of  places  feem.  In  general,  to  be  of  Gaelic  ori- 
ginal. Fo)r  exaiiiple,  Balcony,  that  is,  in  Earfe,  a  dweiling- 
place,  lliis  Is  a  beautiful  feat,  fituatcd  on  the  banks  of  the 
river  Skiack/on  a  fine  eminencei  which  flopes  gradually  to- 
wards the  lea.  This  was  formerly  one  of  the  feats  of  the 
antient  Earls  of  Rofs.  Hence  it  is  called  Balcony  vie  Dho- 
nail,  dr  MacDonald's  habitation.  Kctwal,  that  is,  in  Earfe, 
Kead  vail,  or,  the  firft  pofleffion,  acquired  by  the  Earls  of 
Rof*?  iti  thfs  parifh.  Tennaird,  that  is,  the  houfe  on  the  height. 
Moun^gerald  is  a  modern  name  given  by  Mr  M^Kenzie, 
father  to  the  prefent  proprietor,  to  a  place  formerly  called 
dyne,  being  fituated  on  an  inclined  plain.  This  name  was 
gfiven  in  aHuiion  to  Fitzgerald,  who  came  from  Ireland,  and 
who  was  the  progenitor  of  the  M^Kenzies. 

Antiquittes  and  Curiofttitj.^^kho\}li  half  a  mile  to  the  weft 
of  the  hoafe  of  Clyne,  and  a  quarter  ot  a  mile  to  the  north 
of  (he  poft  road,  is  a  remarkable  piece  of  antiquity,  which 
plainly  appears  to  have  been  ereftcd  by  the  Druids,  and  ufed 
by  them  as  a  place  of  facred  worfliip.  It  confifts  of  a  fmglc 
row  of  twelve  large  ftones,  placed  upright,  and  \o  dUpoled  as 
to  form  two  ovals,  which  are  joined  to  each  other.  1  he 
jCrcas  of  thcfe  ovals  are  equal  j  they  arc  1 3  feet  from  eaft  to  • 
weft>  and  10  feet  in  the  middle  from  north  to  iouth.  At  the 
weft  end  of  oqc  pf  tbem  19  ^  fione,  which  rifes  8  feet  above  the 

furfac 


Ibrtace  of  the  earth ;  the  other  ftones  are  from  4X06  %t 
long.  There  is  alio,  in  the  middle  of  this  ovad,  a  flat  ftone, 
which  was  probably  the  altars  it  ftems  to  have  ftood  ior- 
inerly  at  the  eaft  end,  bat  has  been  throws  down  by  fome 
accident.  Diftant  aHout  3  paces  from  the  eaflem  owil  is  a 
circular  hotlowi  faid  to  have  been  a  well  of  a  confideraUe 
depth)  but  it  i«  now  filled  up;  its  diameter  at  top  is  8  feet. 
Thefe  ovals  arc  fituatcd  on  the  top  of  an  eminence,  round 
which  are  marked  out  three  concentric  circles  \  one  at  the  bot« 
torn,  another  28  paces  above  the  forma*,  and  the  third  i  a  paces 
higher,  immediately  furrounding  the  ovals.  The  circuaifi> 
rence  of  the  firft  is  80,  of  ^hc  iecond  50,  and  of  the  third, 
or  higheft  circki  35  paces.  It  is  obfervable,  that  thefe  cu- 
rious remains  have  a  great  refemhlance  to  many  others  in  dif- 
ferent places  of  Great  Britaini  particularly  to  thofe  in  the  pa» 
rid)  of  Addingtoa,  near  Mailing  in  Kent,  (an  account  of  which 
|s  given  by  Mr  Colebrooke  in  the  Archaeolo^ia,  voL  il.  page 
107.),  and  the  celebrated  ones  at  Stonehenge  in  Wiltihirc  *• 
Large  conical  heaps  of  flones,  or  cairns>  as  they  are  called, 
are  to  be  met  with  on  the  tops  of  many  of  the  hills  and  emi«. 
nencesi  in  the  pari(h.  About  800  paces  to  the  weft  of  the 
above  ruin  is  a  circular  cairn,  in  diameter  about  30  paces, 
containmg»  in  the  center,  a  grave  3  feet  6  inches  long,  18 
inches  broad,  and  14  inches  deep,  neatly  lined  with  four  flat 
ftones,  and  covered  by  another.  There  are  aifo  at  the 
circumference  three  graves  of  the  fame  dimenfions,  on  the 
eaftysfouth,  and  weft,  but  they  are  in  a  nK>re  ruinous  condi- 
tion than  the  central  one.  It  is  probable  that  thefe  were  the 
fepulchrcs  of  a  certain  family  or  tribe  i  the  chief  was  buried 

•  In  order  to  make  the  above  defcription  more  eafily  uoder« 
ftood,  yn  Robertfcuj  fubjoined  a  ftcetch  of  the  form  anu  fima* 
tion  of.  f-fle  itoiies  ;  «na  the  Fdiior  is  forty  that  the  plan  of 
^hi&  vrork  would  not  fuffer  an  engraving  of  it  to  be  made. 


tfKUieam.   '  «$} 

in  tlie  center,  and  Vts  relative:*  or  dependents  at  certsnn  di- 
ftsuices  around  him.  But  -we  fliaU  be  at  a  lofs  to  account  for 
the  fmaltnefs  of  thefe  graves,  unleis  we  fuppofe  theoi  to  have' 
contained  only  the  a(hes  or  bowels  of  the  deceafed  perfon^ 
Thefe,  it  b  likely,  were  depofited  in  earthen  pitchers  or  vafes, 
as  feveral  vefieis  of  that  kind  have  been  dug  up  by  the  plough' 
in  the  neighbourhood  of  thefe  cairns.  There  is  alio  on  the 
north  fide  of  the  river  hkiack,  and  nearly  oppoiite  to  the 
village  of  Uruounond,  a  grave  of  an  oblong  form,  Imed  with 
ftone  in  the  fame  manner  as  thofe  above  defcribed  \  it  is  call* 
cd  the  Prieft's  Sepulchre,  and  is  7  feet  long,  3  broad,  and 
about  3 1  deep.  It  is  evident  from  thefe  remains,  and  many 
others  of  a  limilar  nature,  which  abound  in  almoft  every  part 
of  the  Highlands  of  Scotland,  that  it  was  the  cuftom  of  our 
anccftors  to  cover  their  burying  places  with  heaps  of  ftones  \ 
and  the  reafon  probably  was,  to  prever^  he  bodies  from  be- 
ing dug  up,  and  devoured  by  the  wolves,  wild  boars,  and 
other  beafts  of  prey,  which  then  infefted  the  country  *. 
There  are  ruins  of  five  different  chapels  and  burying  places 
m  this  pariih,  viz.  one  at  Balcony,  called  St  Ninian's  Chapel, 
one  at  Culaaficeath,  one  at  Wefter  Fowlis,  one  at  Kilchoan, 
and  one  at  Limlair,  near  the  iea  Ihore,  called  St  Mary's  Cha«, 
pel.  Several  families  continue  ftill  to  bury  at  the  lall  named 
church-yardj  and  there  are  fome  veitiges  of  the  maole,  or. 
minifter's  houfe,  contiguous  to  it.  The  lad  incumbent's 
name  was  Mr  Henry  Kmcaid,  who  feems  to  have  lived  about 
the  beginning  of  the  laft  century ;  for  it  appears  from  fome 
records  that  he  diipofed  of  certain  teinds  to  the  Baron  of 
Fowlis  ill  1607, 

The 

•  «  IM!  add  a  ftone  to  your  eaim,"  was  formerly  a  provcr-' 
blal  czprcifibn  of  friendfhip  among  the  Highlanders. 


9f4  Statijiieal  Aammi 

The  natural  curiofiij  that  chicfl?  dt:fer?et  ootice  is  the 
cock  called  Craig- t^rande,  or  the  uf  if  rocL  This  is  a^  deep 
^^Im  or  abyls,  formed  by  two  oppofite  precipices  that  rife 
per^'cndicularly  to  a  great  height,  through  which  the  Ault« 
f  nude  runs  for  the  fpace  of  2  miles*  It  begins  at  the  di- 
fiance  of  4  miles  from  the  f ea,  by  a  bold  projeAion  into  the 
channel^ot  the  river,  which  it  diminifhes  in  breadth  by  at  le^ 
one  half.  The  rivrr  continues  to  run  with  rapid iry  for  about 
three  quarters  of  a  mile^  when  it  is  confined  by  a  fudden  jut- 
ting out  of  the  rock.  Here,  the  fide  view  from  the  fumaiit 
is  very  ftriking.  The  courfe  of  the  Hream  oeing  thus  im« 
peded,  it  whirls  and  foams,  and  beats  with  violence  agamft 
the  opposing  rock,  till,  colle£^ing  ftrengrh,  it  ihoots  up  per- 
pendicularly with  great  fury,  and,  forcing  its  way,  darts  with 
the  fwiftnefs  of  an  arrow  through  the  winding  ^.xff^^t:  on  the 
other  fide.  After  puffing  this  obftruftion,  it  becomes  in 
many  places  invifible,  owmg  partly  to  the  mcreadng  depth 
and  narrowiielN  of  the  chafm,  and  partly  to  th^  view  bring 
int'  rcc^)teJ  by  the  nuuierous  branches  ot  trees  which  grow 
OP  »Mf  fi  fide  of  the  precipice.  About  a  quarter  rf  a  uiilc  far- 
tli  r  down,  the  co  ntry  people  have  thrown  a  flight  bridge, 
com  poled  of  tru  ks  of  trees  covered  with  turf,  over  the  rock, 
wh  le  rhc  *halin  is  about  16  ket  wide.  Here  the  oWcrvcr, 
0  he  has  inrrepJity  nough  to  venture  himfelf  on  fuch  a  rot- 
tcring  fapport,  and  can  look  down  on  the  gulph  bciow  with- 
out any  nnealy  (enfations,  will  be  gratified  with  a  view  equal* 
ly  awful  and  aftoniflimg^  The  wildnefs  of  the  fteep  and  rug- 
ged rocks ;  the  gloouiy  horror  of  the  clifls  and  caverns,  "  in- 
*<  acccffible  by  mortaf!  trod,**  and  where  the  gepial  rays  of 
the  fun  never  yet  penetrated  ;  the  water  falls  which  arc  heard 
pouring  down  in  diflTerent  places  of  the  precipice,,  with  founds 
Tarious  in  proportion  to  their  diftance ;  the  hoarfe  and  hol- 
Imt  murmuring  of  the  dvcr,  which  runs  at  the  depth  of  near 


iflCiiteanZ  >9^ 

130  ftct  below  the  Turfice  of  the  earth ;  the  fine  groves  of 
pines,  which  maj^ftkallj  climb  the  fides  of  a  brautiful  cjni* 
Hence,  that  riibs  immediately  from  the  brink  ot  the  chafm ; 
all  thefe  oHjeAs  cannot  be  contemplated  without  exciting 
emotions  ot  wonder  add  admiration  in  the  mind  of  every  be- 
holden. The  appearance  of  this  fingolar  and  piAurclqae 
fcene,  will  naturally  bring  to  the  recollection  of  the  chffical 
fpefhitor  thofe  beautiful  lines  of  Virgil,  in  which  he  dclcnbee 
the  gulph»  through  which  his  AlcAo  (hoots  herfclf  into  the 
infernal  regions: 

*  denfis  hunc  frondibus  atrum 

Urget  utrtmque  larus  nemoris.  medioque  firagoflis   * 

Dat  fonltum  faxis  et  torto  vortice  torrens. 

Hie  fpecus  horrendum,  et  faevi  fpiracula  Ditis 

Monftrantur ;  ruptoque  ingens  Acheronte  vorago 

Peftiferas  aperit  fauces  ;  * 

Critics  may  labour  to  convey  the  force  and  meaning  of  the 
author's  words ;  and  travellers  may,  by  their  ingenious  de* 
fcriptioiis,  give  us  a  ft  U  more  Uvelj  idea  of  their  beauty  and 
propriety }  but  he  who  would  fee  a  living-  commentary  on 
this  noble  paflage,  muft  vifit  the  rock  of  Aultgrande  There 
is  alfo  a  moft  delightful  ride  from  the  church  of  Kiltearn  to 
ArduUie  by  the  fea  fide,  which  is  only  fordable  at  low  wa- ' 
ter.  Here  the  traveller  has  the  fea  on  the  one  hand,  and  z 
fine  view  of  Ferntofli  on  the.oppofite  fide  of  the  bay.  Oa 
the  other  hand  there  is  a  bank  covered  with  various  trees 
and  fhrubs.  as  oak,  beech,  larix,  fpruce  fir ;  and  about  half 
Way  there  is  a  perpendicular  rock,  about  30  feet  high,  alfo 
covered  with  fhrubbery.  Here  there  is  a  natural  cafcade,  or 
full  of  water,  and  clofe  to  the  fall  an  artificial  grove,  and  feat, 
planted  around  with  flowcrsj  and  fome  ornaments  fixed  hi 

the 


the  face  of  the  rock ;  all  whieh  is  very  gratifying  to  anj 
.  who  takes  a  forenoon's  ride  for  idcafare.  But,  as  the  fine 
plantations  contribute  fo  much  to  the  beauty  of  thb  pariih, 
tre  cannot  SToid  taking  notice  of  it  as  a  remarkable  events 
greatly  to  be  regretted,  that,  upon  the  1 7th  day  of  /anmry 
1 79 1,  the  high  wind  bri>ke  down,  and  tore  up  by  the  roots, 
about  6000  fine  firs  in  the  different  plantations  upon  the  cftate 
of  Fowlis.  We  mud  not  omit  to  take  notice  of  a  place  caB* 
ed  Corrivackie,  which  is  fo  fituated  behind  the  great  hill  of 
Uaidi,  that  the  fun  does  not  flune  there  from  November  ta 
the  beginning  of  March. 

Churcb.'^li  has  never  been  afcertained  beyond  a  doubt 
who  is  patron  of  this  parifh.  The  only  claimants  are,  the 
Crown,  and  the  family  of  Fowlis.  All  the  minifters  from 
the  Revolution,  down  to  1770,  were  fettled  by  a  call  from 
tile  heritors.  The  prefent  incumbent,  and  hif  predeceflbr, 
were  fettled  by  royal  prefentations.  Mr  Harry  Robertfon 
vras  tranflated  from  Qyne  to  Kilteam  the  yth  May  1 776.  He 
has  been  married  fince  1772,  and  has  8  children  now  living, 
4  fons  and  4  daughters.  The  church  of  this  parifli  was 
handfomely  rebuilt  in  1 790,  at  the  cxpence  of  L.  700  Ster- 
ling. The  manfe  and  offices  were  built  in  1762.  at  a  verj 
moderate  expcnce.  They  require  iome  repairs ;  and  there  is 
no  doubt  that  they  will  Toon  be  made  comfortable.  The  fii- 
pend  confids  of  136  bolls,  half  oat-meal,  and  half  barley,  and 
L.  32  Sterling,  with  a  glebe  of  4  acres  arable  ground,  with* 
out  any  gra(s. 

Eminent  Afw.— Though  every  age,  and  every  foil,  does 
not  produce  men  of  eminent  talents,  it  cannot  be  denied  that 
Kiltcarn  has  given  birth  to  fcveral  who  have  done  honour  to 
their  native  country.    The  Munros  have  diftinguiflied  th  *m- 

felves 


of  Kilteam.  297 

felvcsj  at  diflfercnt  periods,  by  their  martial  fpirit  and  warlike 
atchievements.  This  circumftaoce  is  taken  notice  of  by  Bu« 
cbanan,  in  the  17th  book  of  his  Hiftory,  where,  after  fpeak« 
ing  of  the  difficulties  in  which  Mary  Queen  of  Scots  was  in« 
volved  at  Invernefs,  he  adds,  <<  That,  as  foon  as  they  heard 
««  of  their  Sovereign's  danger,  a  great  number  of  the  anticnt^ 
'*  Scots  poured  in  around  her,  efpecially  the  Frafers  and 
<<  Munros,  whicii  (fays  be)  were  cfte<?mcd  among  the  mod 
«<  valiant  of  the  clans  inhabiting  thofe  countries/'  And,  in 
the  war  carried  on  by  Guftavus  Adolphus,  Eang  of  Swe* 
den,  againft  the  Emperor  Ferdinand  II.  there  were  fo  ma- 
ny of  the  name  of  Munro,  that,  among  the  officers  of 
that  name  who  ferved  in  that  war,  there  were  3  generals, 
8  colonels,  5  lieutenant-colonels,  1 1  majors,  and  above  30 
captains,  befides  a  great  number  of  fubalterns.  Many  of  them 
gained  great  reputation  in  this  war,  particularly  their  chiefji 
Robert  Munro,  the  aiH:  Baron  of  Fowlis,  who  fo  diftinguifh- 
cd  himfelf  by  his  military  conduA,  that  he  was  made  colonel 
of  two  regiments  at  the  fame  time,  one  of  foot^  and  another 
of  horfe.  It  is  not  neceiTary,  on  this  occaiion,  to  enumerate 
the  feveral  illuftrious  characters  that  fprung  from  the  houfe 
of  Fowlis,  as  this  has  already  employed  the  pen  of  a  very 
learned  and  pious  writer  *•  But,  it  would  be  unpardonable 
to  omit  mentioning  the  late  Sir  Robert  Munro,  who  was  kill- 
ed at  the  battle  of  Falkirk  on  the  17th  January  1746.  There 
are  flill  many  living  witneilcs  to  atteft  how  great  an  orna- 
ipcnt  he  was  to  his  name  and  to  his  country.  His  conduft 
at  the  battle  of  Fontenoy  was  heard  with  juft  applaufe  through 
all  Great  Britain;  and  there  is  0ill  extant  a  copy  of  a  let- 
VoL.  l!  Pp  '  ter 

^  Vide  an  account  of"  the  antient  family  of  the  Munros  of 
FowHs,  ia  the  appendix  to  the  Life  of  Colonel  Gardiner,  by  the 
late  pjr  Doddridge. 


dpS  Statifiical  Jccount 

ter  from  the  ElcAor  Palatioe  to  his .  envoy  at  London,  dc- 
ilring  him  to  thank  the  King  of  Great  Britain,  in  his  namci 
for  the  excellent  behaviour  of  the  Highland  regiment,  while 
they  were  in  his  territories!  <<  which,  (as  he  fays  exprefsly) 
i(  was  owing  to  the  care  of  Sir  Robert  Munro,  their  licute- 
<<  nant-colooel  \  for  whofe  fake  (he  adds)  he  ihould  always 
<<  pay  a  regard  to  a  Scotfman  for  the  future.'^  Sir  Harry 
MunrOi  fon  to  Sir  Robert  jud  mehtioneJ,  was'highly  dtfiin- 
guifhed  in  another  line,  as  a  fcholar  of  the  firft  rank.  In 
clailical  learning  he  was  an  uncommon  proficient.  H=  lild 
the  foundation  of  his  learning  at  Weftminder  fchool,  and 
perfected  it  at  the  univcrfity  of  Lcydcn.  He  employed  his 
leifure  hours,  for  near  20  years,  in  writing  a  large  critical 
ivork  upon  Buchanan's  Ffalms,  which  he  tinilhed/  and  left 
completely  prepared  for  the  prcfs.  This  work  he  fubmittcd 
to  the  review  of  ^e  late  learned  Mr  Thomas  Ruddiman,  who 
gave  his  approbation  of  it,  and  paid  the  higheft  compliments 
to  the  claflical  knowledge  and  critical  abilities  of  Sir  Harry; 
which  appears  by  a  h6lograph  letter  of  Mr  Ruddiman's^  ftiil 
extant  in  the  library  at  Fowlis.  Sir  Harry  having  gone  to 
Edinburgh  for  the  recovery  of  his  health,  died  there  on  xhz 
1 2th  June  1781.  Some  divines  have  alfo  flouriOied  In  Kil- 
Ccarn  that  would  do  honour  to  any  parifli ;  but  we  (hall  only 
mention  two.  The  firft  is  Mr  Donald  Munro.  This  emi- 
nent man,  cotemporary  with  the  celebrated  Buchanany  was 
defcendcd  of  the  family  of  Coul,  a  branch  of  the  Munro'>. 
He  was  firft.  Archdeacon  of  the  Ifles,  and  gave  Buchanan  a 
defcription  of  them,  which  he  acknowledges  in  his  Hiftory : 
He  was  afterwards  appointed  fuperintendant  of  Rofi,  and 
parfon  of  Kiltearn.  The  other  is  Mr  Thomas  Hog,  who  was 
fettled  minifter  at  Kiltearn  in  1655,  but  was  turned  oot  at 
the  reftoration  to  make  way  for  an  Epifcopal  minifter.  He 
fuffered  much  perfecution,  bdng  long  imprUbned  in  the  Bafi: 

When 


of  Kiltearn.  ag^ 

When  he  obtained  his  liberty  he  retired  to  Holland,  where 
he  was  highly  efteemed  for  his  learning  and  piety.  There  is  a 
pamphlet  publiflied,  containing  memoirs  of  his  life,  and  many 
remarkable  anecdotes  of  him.  There  are  feveral  £i^  well 
attefied,  which  indicate  that  he  had  a  remarkable  prefenti- 
ment  of  future  events  refpeAing  the  Church  in  general,  and 
Himfelf  in  particular.  Even  at  a  period  when,  to  all  human 
appearance,  it  was  moft  unlikely,  and  when  he  was  obliged 
to  fly  from  his  country  and  charge,  he  foretold,  whh  the 
inoft  aflured  confidence,  that  there  would  be  fuch  a  revolu* 
'  tion  as  happened  afterwards,  and  that  he  Oxonld  return  to  his 
charge  at  Kiltearn,  and  be  buried  there  \  which  accordingly 
turned  out  as  he  had  faid.  And,  in  confident  ion  of  his  emi« 
neot  worth,  and  great  fufferings.  King  William  was  pleafed 
to  appoint  him  one  of  his  Chaplains  for  Scotland }  but  he 
died  very  foon  after  his  appointment,  at  Kiltearn,  in  1692, 
and  is  buried  at  the  entry  to  the  fouth-weft  door  of  the 
church.  Some  perfon,  out  of  refpeA  for  his  memory,  and 
zealous  to  exprels  the  fenie  he  had  of  Mr  Hogg's  uncommon 
worth,  caufed  the  following  fingular  infcription  to  be  put  on 
his  grave-fione :  <<Thi8  ftooe  will  witnefs  againft  the  pa- 
ce liibtoners  of  Kiltearn,  if  ever  they  bring  in  an  ungodly 
««  minifter  here.**  But,  while  we  pay  the  juft  tribute  of  praife 
to  thofe  whofe  ftations  and  advantages  of  education  enabled 
them  to  diftinguifli  themfelves  in  the  world,  it  would  be  un« 
juft  to  overlook  thofe  bloflbms  of  genius  that  flioot  forth  in 
the  humble  walks  of  life.  Here,  a  watchmaker  in  this  parifh 
naturally  occurs  to  our  view.  This  man  (now  about  30  years 
of  age)  was  bom  and  brought  up  in  the  Highland  diftri£l  of 
this  parifli,  and,  although  he  never  faw  a  watch  or  clock  till 
he  was  grown  up  to  manhood,  yet,  by  mere  intuition,  has 
made  feveral  clocks  of  coarfe  materials,  which  go  well.  He 
only  wants  a  little  inftru£Uon  and  ai&ftance  to  make  a  figure 

in 


30#  Stafffiual  Account 

in  his  line.  It  b  a  pity  that  he  can  neither  read  nor  writCf 
and  hardly  fpeaks  Englifh.  There  is  alfo  a  fchooUbo^^  about 
1 6  years  of  age,  who  difcovers  a  good  tafte  for  drawings  azid 
promifes  to  arrive  at  fome  eminence  in  that  artj  if  his  genius 
was  properly  cultivated :  As  he  is  of  a  weak  conftitution^  he 
is  not  fit  for  any  hard  labour.  Such  inftances  of  genius,  who 
want  the  advantages  of  education,  are  frequently  to  be  met 
with  in  the  world,  and  naturally  fuggeft  to  the  feeling  heart 
that  thought  which  Mr  Gray  Co  beautifully  e^n-efles  in  his 
Elegy: 

<«  Perhaps,  in  this  negleAed  fpot,  is  laid 

«  Some  heart  once  pregnant  with  celeftial  fire ; 

<<  Hands,  that  the  rod  of  empire  might  have  fway'd, 

<«  Or  wak'd  to  ecftacy  the  living  lyre : 

«  But  knowledge  to  their  eyes  her  ample  page, 

«<  Rich  vrith  the  fpoils  of  time,  did  ne'er  unrol^ 

<<  Chill  penury  repreiTd  their  noble  rage, 

**  And  firoze  the  genial  current  of  the  fouL'' 


NUM. 


^  Mefay,  j^oii 


NUMBER     XXXI. 
PARISH  OF  ROTPESAY. 

t 

By  the  Rev.  Mr  Archibald  M<Lba. 


Name,  Situation^  Extent. 


THE  antient  Gaelic  and  patronimic  name  of  the  parHh  is 
Cilla*bbnilc.  The  modern^  and  perhaps  the  antient 
name^  by  which  it  was  generally  known,  by  thofe  particularly 
who  do  not  fpeak  the  Gaelic  language,  is  Rothefay.  The 
meaning  of  Cilla'bhruic  is.  The  church  dedicated  to  St  Broke, 
of  which  he  is  the  tutelar  faint.  There  is  a  yearly  fair  held 
in  the  town  of  Rothefay,  called  Feil-bhruic,  or  St  Broke's 
fair.  The  etymology  of  Rothefay  is  not  fully  afcertained* 
Some  fuppofe  it  Oani{h.  If  it  is  of  Gaelic  original,  the  mod: 
natural  and  probable  etymology  of  it  is,  Riogh«Suidhe,  that 
is.  The  King's  feat,  perhaps  from  there  being  an  old  caftle 
in  it,  called  the  Caftle  of  Rothefay,  fometimes  the  refidtnce 
of  certain  of  the  Elings  of  Scotland.  By  thofe  who  fpeak  the 
Gaelic  language,  the  parifh  is  always  called  Cilla'bhruic,  or 
Sgireachd  Bhruic,  that  is,  St  Broke's  parifh.  And  the 
town  of  Rothefay  is  called  Bailea  Mhoide,  or,  The  town 
where  the  court  of  jufiice  is  held.  The  ifland  of  Bute  itfdf 
is  called,  in  that  language.  Oilcan  a'  Mhoide,  or.  The  ifland 
where  the  court  of  juftice  fits.  The  parifh  is  fituated  in  the 
ifland  and  county  gf  Bute.  From  the  reformation  to  the  year 

1639, 


'  y>z'  Statiftical Account 

1639,  while  prefbytery  was  the  eftablifhd  fonn  of  choxxh 
government!  the  parilh  of  Rothefay  was  within  the  preibj- 
tery  of  Irvine  or  Ciininghame,  and  fynod  of  Glafgow  and  Air. 
In  the  year  16399  it  was  disjoined  from  that  prefbytery  and 
fynod,  and  annexed  to  the  Prefbytery  of  Denood,  and  (ynod 
of  Argyky  to  which  it  ftill  continues  txnited.  In  the  time  of 
£pifcopacy»  it  was  within  the  diocefe  of  the  Ifles  ;  and,  by 
the  aA  of  parliament  in  itity,  appointing  the  chapter  of  the 
Bifhop  of  the  Ifles,  the  Parfon  of  Rothefay  was  made  Sub- 
dean  of  the  Ifles.  The  parifli  may  be  about  ten  miles  long, 
and  from  three  to  four  broad.  I 

Pcptdation.-^^Thett  is  no  particuhr  account  of  the  antiect 
ihte  of  the  population  of  the  parifli ;  but,  fit>m  the  nambcr 
of  ruinous  and  wafte  houies  which  were  in  the  town  of 
Rothefay,  it  would  appear  to  have  been  pretty  populous^  and 
of  feme  note  at  an  early  period.  About  the  year  1762*  fome 
of  thefe  ruins  were  begun  to  be  rebuilt  \  and,  fince  that  pe- 
riod, the  town  has  been  gradually  increafing  fo  much,  that, 
not  only  the  former  ruinous  houfes  have  been  ail  re-builr, 
but  a  number  of  new  ftreets  bud  out  and  finiflied. 

Number  of  fouls  m  the  parifli  of  Rothefay  the  following 
yean,  diftinguifliing  the  number  refiding  in  the  country,  and 
the  number  refiding  within  the  territory  of  the  town  of 
Rothefay,  taken  from  the  Examination  Roll  of  each  year. 

Yeart.  Goantry.  Town.  Toul«  Tctrt.  Countty.  Town.  Tocal* 

1766  1500  1158  2658  1771   1677  141 1  3088 

1767  I510  1 181  2691  1772   1609  1387  299^ 

1768  1597  1254  2851'  1773   1626  1352  2978 

1769  1667  1326  2993  1774   1628  1343  2971 
2770  1661  1470  3131  1775   idotf  1359  2965 


tfRabefajf  303. 

Yeari.  CMOtry.  Town.  TouL  Tean»  Conntry.  Town.  Tdl^tf 

1776  1628  1400  3028  1784  1411  1983  34Q4> 

»777  I5S4  ^387  294X  1785  1424  ac8o  aj^T 

1778  1563  1525  3q88  1786  1430  21 8«  36^0 

1779  1566  1601  3167  1787  1406  2993  3699- 

1780  J 592  1669  3261  1788  1436  2336  3771I: 

1781  1543  1701  3244  1789  143a  ^441  387» 
J782  1515  1807  3322  1790  14^5  2607  4oj» 
1783  1485  1904  3389 


/'♦t 


Number  pf  the  marriages  ftnd  toptifau  in  the  parifli  pf - 
Rothe£iy  ^n  <be  foUowiqgyean* 


Mar. 

Bap. 

Mar. 

Bap. 

1692 

.  ai 

5' 

l.74o' 

.16 

JKJ  -) 

1790 

»5 

49  . 

177® 

»5 

t^O  .s 

1710 

11 

43 

1780 

30 

9<J:.. 

1720 

»9 

7» 

1790 

4a 

"4  -. 

1730 

17 

«7 

— - 

1740 

.  lO 

8a 

. 

aop 

825  ; 

1750 

24 

80 

The  regifter  for  baptifms  and  marriage^  but  not  of 
deaths^  have  been  pretty  4iftinfU7  kept  in  this  parifh  fipce 
i69i»  nntil  thefe  rcgifters  were  taxed^  within  thefe  few. 
years9  by  a£l  of  parliament.  As  an  objpft  of  taxation^ 
it  nmft  turn  to  little  account.  As  an  objeft  of  poUcct. 
attention  to  thef^  regifters  might  become  of  confideraUe 
importance  to  the  ftate.  Were  the  prefent  tax  given  ta 
the  kirk*feffionpclerkf  as  a  fabuy  for  keeping  the  regiftert 
of  baptifms,  marriages,  and  burials,  in  each  pari£b,  in  a  regu^ 
lar  diftinft  manner^  and  for  making  out  yearly^  at  a  partico-* 
lar  tCTOt  4  fqU  c«tnift  of  eacfaf  to  be  cqrtififid  I7  the  i^ 

of 


ioi  Statlftlcal  Account 

€ttht  parHhi  as*a  true  and  cza£l  copy ;  or  by  three  dJers  in 
dife  of  a  va^incy  i  together  with  an-  authentic  account  of  the 
ittimhcr  of  ibult  in  the  pariflii  made  out  in  fuch  manner  a< 
might  be  found  neiceflary  ;  and  this  extract  and  note  of  the 
number  of  fouls  in  the  pariih  to  be  lodged,  upon  a  certain  day, 
each  year,  in  an  office  at  Edinburgh,  appointed  for  that  por- 
pofe  ;  it  would  be  a  fource  of  valuable  information,  to  which 
ncottrfe  might  be  had,  when  found  necefiary,  with  Iktic 
trouble.  The  caufe  of  the  increafo  of  the  population  in  the 
town  of  Rothefay,  fince  the  year  1766,  may  be  a  cuftom- 
hbnfe  eftabliihed  there  in  1765,  the  herring  fi(hery,  and  a 
cotton  fpinning  mill,  ercAed  there  about  twelve  or  thirteen 
years  ago. 

Cbnrcb  and  Stipend,  Cd'r.— The  church  was  built  about  the 
year'itfpo,  alid  the  manfe  in  1757.  The  fttpend  is  about 
L*  80  Sterling,  exclufive  of  the  manfe  and  glebe.  The  Earl 
of  Bot^  is  patron.  ^  There  are  four  heritors  in  the  coontry 
part  of  the  parifli,  and  a  number  of  .fmaH  proprietors  within 
the  tWritory  of  the  town.  The  number  of  poor  perfons  rc- 
ceiinng  charity  may  be  about  70.  The  amount  of  coUeflions 
and  funds  for  their  fupport  is  about  L.  60. 

Mifcellatiious  Objervations. — ^The  lanc[uage  principally  fpokcn 
in'  the  parifli  is  the  Gaelic  \  the  names  of  the  places  fceni,  in 
general,  to  be  dcri^^ed  from  it.  There  is  an  old  calVIe  in 
the  town  df  Rothefay i  now  a  ruin,  but  formerly  fometimcs 
th6  rtfideAce  of  the  Kin^s  of  Scotland,  and  afterwards  inha- 
bited by  the  family  of^Butc,  lierrtable  conftables  of*  it,  till  it 
tfras'lmrftt^dUrfrig'tW  tfoublcs'm  1685.  The  fuel  ufed 
ih^'the  cotmkry  patt  It  the  par'lfli'  is  peat,  and  fottic  coal. 
Scarcely  any  rhlirtrg;  init^  coi'l  isr  xffccl  irt  ttc  town.  It  is  ge- 
neratfy  imported  fWnf  ^fefg^^ir  si"^c«  expenfe'    The 

price 


price  at  flbippmg  there  is  3  s.  6d.  a  cart ;  l)ut  the  river-dues, 
or  tonnage  ^uty,  Sec,  nearly  double  the  prkc  at  Rothefay. 
The  price  of  provifions,  till  vrithin  thcfe  twenty  or  twcniyi 
five  years,  was  moderate  •,  but,  during  that  period,  has  b»ert 
gradually  rifing,  and  is  now  regulated,  in  a  great  meafure.  by 
the  Greenock  market,  otie  of  the  dearefl  in^  Scotland.  The 
price  of  labour  of  all  kinds,  has  advanced  greatly  within  thcfe 
few  years.  A  day  labourer,  about  twenty  years  ago,  could 
have  been  hired  for  6  d  7  d.  or  8  d  a  day  ;-but  now  they  re- 
quire I  st'Vfrir  5.  6  d.  The  people  arc  induftrious.  There  is 
a  cotton  fpinning  mill  crcfteJ  in  the  town  of  Rorliefay, 
vrhich  employs  about  300  hands,  young  and  old.  Many,  both 
young  and  old,  are  aiib  employed  in  fpinning,  and  in  making 
and  mending  nets.  The  people  are  particularly  fond  of  a 
a  fea  faring  life.  About  thirty  years  ago,  all  the  boats 
belonging  to  the  parifli,  except  one  or  two  half-decked 
barks  of  about  fifteen  tons  for  carrying  coals,  were  open 
boats,  like  thofc  commonly  ulcd  for  eatching'  herrings  j 
having  in  generally  in  that  employment  four  men,  or  at  leaft 
three  men  and  a  boy ;  and  of  thcfe  there  mi^ht  be  from  a 
hundred  to  a  hundred  and  twenty.  But  now,  bcliaes,  froui 
twelve  to  twenty  of  open  boats,  there  may  be  between  eighty 
and  a  hundred  veflcls  belonging  to  the  pariih,  from  fifteen  to 
one  hundred  tons  burden. 

During  the  laft  war,  there  were  a  number  of-fcamcn  fiom 
the  pariih  in  the  navy  fervice  ;.and,  had  the  prize-money  due 
10  them  been  properly  accounted  for,  it  is  believed  that*  prcfs- 
warrants  would  have  been  unncccirury  hc:re  ;  bur,  as  matters 
arc  at  prcfent  managed,  nothing  but  coiiipulfion  will  induce 
them  to  enter  into  the  navy  fervice.  Many  of  them,  to 
whom  prize-money  is  due,  can  get  no  account  of,  ncr  even 
iad  out  the  agent  in  whole  hands  it  is.     Would  it  not  an- 

Vol..  U  Qji  iwcr 


3o6  Statijlieat  Accmil 

;mrwer  the  purpoTes  of  governoieot  equally  vdl,  were  ds 
manageuicnt  of  prizes  pul  into  the  haods  of  the  pay*  office 
and  goTernment  become  accountable  for  it,  as  well  a&  that 
wages  ;  ancli  inQead  of  obligiag  the  feamen  to  tmjkj  > 
gents  and  attornieSi  at  a  great  espence  and  riik,  ought  not 
the  mfpedtor  of  the  pay-office  correfpond  wi:b  tbe  mi- 
niftcrs  of  the  diiFereat  parilhes  to  which  the  feamen  bdoogi 
(which  he  is  e?en  at  prcfent  fometixnes  obliged  to  dQ)iaQdthe 
fituation  and  circumf^ances  of  each  ieaman's  right  and  daia 
being,  hi  tlie  courie  ol  the  correipoodcncej  afcen^edi  paj- 
ment  migl^t  be  had  at  the  neareft  bank^  or  sua  order  giTca 
upon  the  nearcit  cuftoiphoule,  without  either  riik  or  expeoce  ? 
By  adopting  fome  ineafure  of  this  kind,  the  nunifters  of  the 
parilhes  where  there  s|re  fea- faring  people  would  have  mwh 
Ufs  trouble  than  they  frequently  have  by  the  prefcnt  mode 
of  maniage  r^.enti  and  would  at  the  fame  time  have  the 
fatititaflion  of  feeing  juftice  done  to  a  fet  of  brave  fel- 
lows, who  have  riiked  their  liv^  in  the  fervice  of  their 
country. 

The  people  enjoy,  in  a  confiderable  degree,  ths  comibrts 
and  advantages  of  fociety,  and  icem  contented  with  their 
iituation  and  circumftanpes. 

The  principal  grievances  under  which  the  people  labour,  is 
the  partial  and  oppreflive  duty  on  coals,  to  which,  from 
their  fituation,  they  are  fubjefted.  Could  this  grievance  be 
removed,  either  by  freeing  them  from  it  altogether,  or  bf 
laying  a  very  trifling  general  duty  on  coals  at  the  pit,  it 
would  be  a  great  relief  to  the  people^  ^nd  be  a  much  more 
produ£Uve  tax  to  government 


It« 


9f  Roth^hy.  ^07 

tht  peculiair  advantages  which  the  parifh  haft,  are  the 
Aomber  of  fafe  harbours  and  anchorages,  vi2.  The  Buy  of 
Rotlieraj  and  of  Kaimesi  the  Keils  of  Bute^  and  the  Baj 
#f  &  Ninians, 


HUM. 


^oS  Stati/lkdi  Acewttt 

NUMBER    XXX[L 
PARISH   OF   KINGARTH. 

By  the  Rrv.  Mr  James  Thorbu&n. 


Name  ttnd  Exttnt. 


THIS  parifli,  fiuatcd  in  the  ifland  of  Bute,  has  its  name 
from  fomc  rugged  rocks  on  the  fouth  end  of  it,  »• 
gaiiifl  whichi  when  the  wind  blows  from  the  fouth,  the 
waves  of  the  fea  beat  with  great  violence.  I»  the  origioal 
Gaclici  it  fignificsi  <  A  bold  furious  head.'  It  is  about  fevca 
miles  long  from  north  to  fouth,  and,  at  an  average,  two  miles 
broad  from  ead  to  wefl ;  bounded  by  the  pariOi  of  Rotfaefaj 
on  the  north  and  north-weft  \  by  the  fea  on  the  weft,  caft, 
and  fouth. 

Surface^  Sw/»  f^'r. — When  viewed  at  a  diftancc,  the  furfacc 
has  a  flat  appearance,  although  there  is  a  gradual  afccnt  from 
the  eaft  and  weft  fliorcd  to  the  middle  of  the  pari(h.  There 
are  a  few  little  hills  on  the  fouth  part  of  it,  but  none  of  them 
remarkably  high.  There  are  fome  plantations  of  fir  trees,  &c»  i 
but  the  lai-gcft  plantations  are  round  the  houfe  of  Mount  Stu- 
art, tke  feat  of  the  Earl  of  Bute,  where  there  are  a  great  maDj 
fine  trees  of  diSerent  kinds.  The  houfe  is  elegant,  aod  is 
moft  delightfully  fituatcd,  about  200  yards  from  the  caft 
fhore,  having  a  near  view  of  all  the  fliipping  of  the  Fnth  of 

Clvde 


I 


dj4e  paffingap^  repaffing.  Nearly,  the  whole  of  the  parifh  ia 
.inclof^d  and  fubdividcil  with  ditch-  and  hedge*  which  afford 
ifacitcr  and  warmth,  and  make  an  agreeable  appearance.  The 
ibU,  in  general,  .is  iight  and  fandy,  fit  (when  properly  culti- 
vatedi  which  it  has  been  in  fomc  farms,  but  particularly  about 
iVlount  Siuartj,  where  fields  have  beeni  and  are  (Idl  cultivated 
to  the  highefl  perfeAion),  for  crops  of  barky,  turnip,  ry^ 
grafs,  and  clover  of  every  kind.  Inclofed  land  is  let,  at  an  a« 
vcr^e,  from.  :%©:*.  to  15  s.  per  acre  ;  outfield  land  irom  3  s. 
^o  3  $•  .6  d.  pe.r.acrc  Faros,  a^.  an  average,  from  L.  30  tp 
J[y..6o  per  fai^,'  Nearly  the  one- half  of  the  rents  arc  paid 
by  .barley}  thc.othdr  half  by.  oats  and  cattle.  The  te- 
nant^ ,fiad  ^Tea4y./file  for  their  barley  to  the  diftillers  of 
whilky  ip  the  ifland.  For  fome  years  paft,  the  price  of  bar- 
Jlcy  has  l^een,  at  an  average,  from  i3  s.  to  20  s.  per  boli.  Ihe 
.pyirilh  likewiie  produces  oats.  Perhaps  too  many  are  fown 
in  this  foil.  Tfec.prke  of  oats,  for  Icven  years  paft,  has 
been  from  14  s.  to  16  s.  per  boll.  Largs  is  the  only 
market  town  for  oats.  Potatoes  are 'in  great  plenty  j  and 
thefe,  with  barings;  art  the  cliicf  maintenance  of  fhc  frreateft 
number. of  the  inhabitants  for  three  quarters  of  the  year. 
.Clover  and  rye-grafs  hay  is  fold  to  the  inhabitants  of  Rothe- 
£ay  at  4  s.  and:5S.  per  trufs,  equal  to  ij  ftone  En^liih. 
The. average  price  of  oat-meal,  for  Icven  years,  has  been  from 
16  sw  to  18  s.  per  boll,  9  ftone  weight  in  the  bolU 

CaitU.^Tht  breed  of  horfes  is  much  improved  of  late. 
.£very  farmer  has  a  cart  or  carts,  according  to  the  fize  of  his 
farm.  About  twenty  years  ago  there  were  none  in  the  pa- 
rilh,  except  at  Mount  Stuart,  black  cattle  are  not  much  im^ 
proved,  owing  to  their  fcanty  feeding  when  young. 

Poor^ — The  poor  are  maintained  by  weekly  colleftions. 

3y 


^lo  StaHJtUal  Acmtni 

By  ad  of  the  kirk*leffioD,  every  one  who  Is  admitted  to  %e  a 
conftant  penfioner  muft  fign  a  difpofition  of  his  eficAs  (if  a» 
cy,  at  his  or  her  deceafc),  to  the  kirk-feffion,  to  be  grren  to 
the  furviiung  poor.  Since  the  year  1782,  we  have  few  or 
rather  no  beggars.  By  the  beneficence  of  the  Earl  of  Bote^ 
and  by  other  charitable  donations,  they  have  not  been  fo  no* 
ceffitous  as  they  were  before  the  year  1782. 

Strvants^ — Their  vrages  are  advanced  of  late  more  than  a 
third.  Men^fervants  wages  are  from  L.  6  to  L.  8  permmums 
women- fervants  wages  are  from  JU  3  to  L.  4  per  ammtmi 
day-labourers  have  in  winter  from  6  d.  to  8  d.  a  day,  with 
their  maintenance  }  in  fpring  and  fummer  from  8  d.  to  10  d  ; 
in  harveft,  women  hired  by  the  day  have  8  d.  a  day,  and 
their  dinner ;  if  hired  for  the  whole  time  of  harveft,  from 
1 6  s.  to  18  s.  and  their  maintenance.  There  are  no  meiv 
reapers  \  the  corn  Is  all  cat  down  by  women  \  and  the  men 
tie  the  iheavcs  and  ftook  them. 

Fifi  and  game.'^Thert  are  fi(h  of  almoft  every  kmd  on 
each  fide  of  the  parifh  i  but  the  natives  never  6th  for  any 
kind,  excepting  herrings.  Of  thefe  they  are  unconmumly 
fond,  which  prevents  them  from  trying  to  catch  others. 
In  the  fpring,  when  they  are  not  employed  at  the  herring, 
fifhery,  would  they  apply  themfelves  to  the  catching  <tf  cod 
and  haddocks,  &c.  they  would  furely  be  gainers.  Fi(b  of  the 
above  kinds  are  taken  by  north  country  ftroUIng  fiihermctty 
and  loia  at  high  prices.  Hares,  partridges,  and  fnipcsy  are 
in  plenty.  There  are  likcwifc  green  and  grey  plovers  ;  fome 
wnters  a  great  many  woodcocks,  abundance  of  ducks  and  ted, 
with  other  fea-fowl,  which  are  common  to  the  weftem  fhorca 
•f  Scotland. 

CUmate. 


rf  Kingarib.  31  k 

gSmaii  —This  parilhi  though  damp.  Is  mild  and  tempe* 
rate,  and  very  healthy,  owing  probably  to  the  faline  particle 
impregnating  the  air,  and  the  dry  Tandy  foil  of  the  parifli. 
There  are  no  epidemical  difeafes  in  the  parifli.  1  he  only 
difiemper  is  the  rheumatifm  i  but  it  is  not  frequent.  There 
are  many  inftances  of  longevity  in  the  parifh.  Three  mea 
died  this  winteri  one  94,  each  of  the  other  two  84  years 
•Id. 

Language  and  Chara8ir. — Mod  of  the  natives  fpeak  £ngli(h 
wery  well ;  although,  in  converfing  with  one  another,  they 
leem  to  be  fond  of  the  Gaelic,  their  mother  tongue,  which 
chiefly  prevails  among  the  old  people,  and  may  have  been  an 
liindrancc  to  the  more  eafy  and  more  ready  introduction  of 
pew  methods  of  improvements  in  the  parifh.  They  are  a  fo- 
ber,  peaceable,  and  charitable  people. 

J^atrcn,  Heritori^  and  Stipend,  b'r.  The  Earl  of  Bute  if 
patron,  and  almoft  fole  proprietor  of  the  pariih.  There  are 
only  fi>ur  heritors  of  fmall  property,  not  amounting  to  L.  200 
fer  annum.  The  (tipend  confifts  of  78  bolls  of  viClual^  half 
meal,  half  barley ;  the  meal  at  9  (tone  weight  per  boli,  the 
barley  4  firlots  per  boUj  L,  36  :  15  :  4  Sterling  of  money, 
with  a  manfe  and  glebe.  The  manfe  and  olfice-houfes  were 
aU  new  built  in  1 769,  There  are  three  churches  in  the  pa- 
rifh.  One  of  them  is  built  near  the  fouth  end,  between  the 
year  1000  and  1  loo.  It  is  now  almoft  in  ruins.  The  other 
two  are  in  pretty  good  repair,  particularly  the  one  on  the 
fhore  near  Mount  Stuart  Houfe.  Worfliip  is  only  performed 
in  it  when  any  of  the  family  are  there.  The  other  kirk  is 
the  ordinary  place  of  worfhip,  named  the  Mid-Kirk,  being 
inofe  centrical  for  the  inhabitants. 

Schcoli. 


2 1 2  Statijiical  Account 

Sihools. — ^Thcrc  arc  at  prcicnt  three  fchools.  ift,  A  ^a« 
rifli  ichool,  the  falary  L.  6  Sterling  ;  2d,  a  Ichool,  endowed 
and  iupportcd  by  tht  focicty  for  propagating  Chriftian  know- 
ledge, falary  only  L.  6  per  annum,  z  free  houfc,  kdc-yard, 
and  a  cow,  maintained  fummer  and  winter  by  the  diftnth  It 
is  fituatcd  on  the  north-weft  fide  of  the  parifli,  where  young 
children  are  too  far  from  the  parochial  fchool.  The  3d  is  in 
the  north  weft  quarter  of  the  parifti  i  and  the  teacher  is  paid 
by  the  inhabitants  of  that  quarter. 

jtntiquitiis.— On  the  fouth-wcft  part  of  the  pariih,  on  a 
little  rocky  hill,  there  arc  evident  vcftigcs  of  a  vitrified  wall, 
faid  to  be  a  Danifli  fort ;  but  it  feems  more  probable  that  it 
was  made  by  the  inhabitants  to  defend  the  ifland  from  the 
attacks  of  the  Danes  and  Norwegians.  1  he  hill,  in  the  ori* 
gina)«  fignifies,  <  Ihe  hill  of  the  Lowland  men.'  On  a 
plain  piece  of  ground,  at  a  little  diftance  from  the  the  Mid* 
Kirk,  there  are  evident  remains  of  a  Uruidical  temple,  three 
large  ftones  of  which  are  ftill  ftanding.  It  had  been  for- 
rom^dcd  w.th  wood.  There  are  large  trunks  of  oak-trees  it 
a  morafs,  not  above  aoo  yards  from  the  temple. 


MarriageSf 

Births t  and  Burials. 

Abftraft  for  fcven  years. 

Marriages.^        Birth; 

u 

Buriafs. 

Males;     Females. 

M^les,  Females 

From  1784  to  1785 

13              16 

13 

■     7          5 

From  1785  to  1786 

9           M 

'J 

4          1 

From  1786  to  1787 

12            \6 

>3 

7          6 

From  1787  to  1788 

10             12 

11 

10          6 

From  1788  to  1789 

10              13 

10 

6          4 

From  1789  to  1790 

11              13 

^7 

3          2 

From  1790  to  1791 

16              11 

9 

5         3 
Bj 

B7  a  lift  tak^  10  March  1791^  the  number  of  the  inha- 
bitanrs  is  7.27.  t  hey  h^ve  decrcafed  230  within  thefe  fifteen 
years.  The  reafon  is,  that  the  town  of  Rotheiay  finds  em* 
plojiuent  for  day  labourers,  and  other  workmen,  and  affords, 
them  higher  .wa^es  than  they  can  receive  m  a ..covQtry  pa* 
lifh.  The  population,  according  to  Dr  W^bfier^  wa$  ^70 
fook. 

Advantages  and  Di/advantagHm^There  is  a  readf  fale  for 
every  kjiid  of  ^jroduce,  either  at  Roc.efay,  Greenock^  or  the 
Largs.  1  here  are  two  packets  every  week  from  Kothefay, 
and  a  ferry*  boat  once  every  week  from  Scouiay,  near  Mount 
Stuart,  to  the  Largs.  Few  of  the  inhabitants  export  their 
own  commodities ;  buyers  come  to  the  iiland,  and  are  at  the 
expence  of  ferrying  them  over  to  the  other  fide.  The  difad* 
▼amages  are,  ifl.  Want  of  coal.  Trials  have  been  often 
made  to  find  coal,  and  within  this  five  years  by  Lord  Mount 
Stuart  (ending  men  IkiUcd  in  that  employment  from  New- 
caitle  i  but  unfortunately  all  their  trials  were  ineffedtual.  The 
pariih  abounds  with  limeltone  ,  and,  if  a  good  ieam  of  coal 
could  be  foundy  the  ifland  would  be  the  wealthieft  in  the 
kingdom.  Pofiibly  that  may  yet  be  effcdtcd,  if  farther  triab 
were  made.  2dly,  l*he  fanners  being  employed  the  moft 
part  of  the  fummer  in  cafting  and  leading  peats,  cannot  pro- 
vide manure  for  their  farms,  the  fummer  leaion  being  the 
fittefl  for  that  purpole  ;  but  what  for  fome  years  pail  appears 
to  be  the  greatelt  difauvantagc  to  the  farming  intereft  oi  the 
parifb  is  the  bounty  to  the  bufs-fifliing,  which  is  carried  on 
to  a  great  extent  in  Rotheiay.  Few  farmer's  fons  are  bred 
to  farming.  To  purchafe  a  fmall  (hare  in  a  herring  bufs^ 
and  become  mafter  of  it,  feems  to  be  their  great  ambition  It 
is  a  h£kf  that  all  the  young  men  of  the  pariOi  engage  in  the 
herring  fifhery ;  and|  when  once  engaged|  though  they  have 

Vol..  If  R  r  M 


}I4  Staii/ficat  AccAag 

tn  opportunity  of  working  in  the  farming  line  all  fpringt 
and  receiving  good  wages,  fi:w  or  none  are  willing  to 
work.  This  has  formerly  juftly  raifed  a  complaint  among 
the  farmers,  and  at  prefent  their  greateft.  Might  not  go- 
veTTimtnt  fuipcnd  the  bounty  for  two  or  three  yean  m  ordor 
^  try  iU  tiietts  I 


NUM. 


4fIk^/lmaimuiKittattam  §15 

NUMBER     XXXIII. 

VNITED  PARISHES  OF  HOUSTOUI? 
AND  KILLALLAN. 

Sf  tie  Rev.  Mr  John  MoMTBATfi^ 


HOITSTOUN  and  Killallan  were  originally  fcparate  pi^ 
rifheSy  but  lo  intermixed,  with  relpeA  to  their  local 
firuatjon,  that  the  people  in  one  quarter  of  Killallan  were  obli- 
ged, if  they  kept  the  high  road,  to  travel  every  Sunday  clofe 
by  the  gate  of  Houftoun  kirk,  to  attend  public  worlhip  at  Kill- 
allan, near  two  Lngl.ih  miles  up  the  country }  aiid  anothex' 
quarter  to  travel  acrois  the  middle  of  Houfldun  parifh,  td 
Killallan,  for  the  fame  purpofe.  This  inconvenient  fituatiofll 
of  the  pariflies  made  it  neeeflary  for  both  to  join  together  ifl 
the  celebratioti  of  the  Lord's  Supper,  and  to  obferve  all  thd 
holidays  ufuai  on  that  occaGon.  Both  parishes  being  fmally 
and  the  examinable  perfons  in  both  fcarcely  amounting  td 
609  i  the  ftipends  not  a  fufficient  provifton  for  the  mihifteri 
in  fuch  an  expenfive  part  of  the  country,  the  one  valued  at 
900,  the  other  at  iooomet*ks;  the  teinds  exhaufted^  no 
augmentation  could  therefore  be  obtained.  From  tiiefc  conii- 
derations,  the  patrons  and  heritors  of  both  parlQies,  with 
conlent  of  the  prefbytery,  agreed  to  petition  the  Lords  Cool- 
iniffionen  appointed  for  plantation  of  kirks^  &e*  to  have  thenft 

«niM4 


ji  $  Stotifiiccj  AccfnM 

united  into  one  parilh,  to  be  called  the  United  Fariflies  of 
Houftoun  and  Killallan.  The  Lords  gave  a  decreet  for  that 
purpofe  in  the  year  1 76a,  with  this  provifion,  that  the  then 
incumbents  (hould  enjoy  their  ftipendsi  manles,  and  glebes, 
and  exercife  their  padoral  office  in  their  refpedive  pariihes, 
tilt  the  death,  tranrportation,  or  deprivation,  of  the  one  of 
them ;  and  the  patrons  to  exercife  the  right  of  prefenting  in 
a  vacancy  by  turns ;  and  ordained  the  kirk  at  Houftoun  to 
be  the  only  kirk  of  the  united  parilhes  in  future. 

Origin  of  the  Names. — Killallan,  or  Killellen,  according  to 
an  infcription  on  the  kirk  bell,  feems  to  be  a  corruption  of 
Killfillan,  i  e  dlla  FiUam^  the  tutelar  faint  of  the  parifli. 
There  is  a  large  Aone  a  little  didant  from  the  kirk,  with  a 
hollow  in  the  middle,  called  Fillan*s  Seat ;  a  little  £tfthcr,  • 
fpring  well,  called  Fiilan's  Well,  iffiiing  from  onder  a  rock, 
(haded  with  buihes  hanging  over  it,  to  which,  it  h  reported, 
that  the  country  women  ufed  to  bring  their  weak  and  ricfcet- 
ty  children,  and  bathe  them  in  the  water,  leaving  fome  pieoo 
of  cloth  as  a  prefent,  or  offering,  to  the  Saint,  on  the  bathes. 
This  cuflom  continued  till  about  the  end  of  the  laft  century, 
when  one  Mr  Hutchefon,  who  was  then  mlnifter,  catt(ed  the 
well  to  be  filled  with  ftones.  There  is  a  fair  held  in  the 
month  of  January,  called  Fillan's  Fair,  and  Fillan's  Day.  The 
font  (lone  for  holding  the  holy  water,  in  times  of  Popery, 
fiood  long  without  the  quire  door,  after  the  re£Mriiiation»  but 
is  now  built  la  the  church* yard  wall. 

« 

Houftoun,  in  antient  times,  was  called  Hilpeter,  i.  e,  Cdla 
Pttn^  the  tutelary  faint.  There  is  a  well  at  a  little  diftance, 
to  the  north,  weft  of  the  church,  called  St  Peter's  Wcllj  it  is 
covered  with  a  wall  of  cut  free-ftone,  arched  in  the  roof, 
from  which  flows  a  pkntiful  fiream  of  excellent  watery  and 

a 


^  lloujfoun  and  Killallaru  317 

a  ftream  oF  water  pafling  hard  by  is  cuiied  Peter's  Burn. 
There  is  a  fair  held  in  the  month  of  July  in  the  village^  call- 
ed Peter's  Day  Houfloun,  the  more  modern  name  of  the 
pariih,  may  be  fuppofed  to  be  a  corruption  of  HewN  town^ 
perhaps  from  Hugo  de  Padfinan,  wlio  is  faid  by  Mr  Craw* 
fiird»  in  his  Hiftory  of  Rei  ifrewfliirei  to  have  obtained  a  grant 
of  the  barony  of  Kilpeter  from  Baldwin  of  Biggar,  fhrriffof 
Lanark  in  the  reign  of  Malcolm  IV  When  families  began 
to  afTuiue  (irnames  from  their  hereditary  latids  and  baronies, 
his  defcendants  may  be  iuppofed  to  have  afllime^  the  name 
of  Hrw^  town ;  and,  in  proceis  of  time,  might  be  changed 
Into  Houftoun  Une  oi  Hugo  de  Padvinan's  fucceflbrs,  who 
lived  in  the  reign  of  King  Alexander  11 L  is  called,  in  an  an* 
f lent  charter*  Sir  Finlay  de  Houl^oun ;  which  iimame  con* 
tinned  in  the  family  for  fevcral  hundred  years.  We  are  alfo 
informed  by  Mr  Crawfurd,  that  Patrick,  one  of  Hugh  de 
Padvinan's  fucceiTors,  obtained  the  honour  of  knighthood 
from  James  V.  of  Scotland ;  perhaps  a  renewal  and  confir* 
mat  ion  of  a  tormer  grant  of  that  honour  to  his  predeccflbrs. 
The  barony  of  Houftoun  comprehends  the  whole  panlli  of 
Houftuun,  and  a  fmall  part  ot  Kilialian.  Before  the  union 
of  the  two  parifhes,  there  was  not  a  lingle  feuer  m  the  parifli 
and  barony  of  Houftoun.  About  50  years  ago»  it  was  (old 
to  Sir  John  hchaw  of  Greenock;  and  ioon  after,  by  him,  to 
Sir  James  Campbell  from  Jamaica  ;  and  by  his  heirs  to  Go» 
wernour  Macrae.  It  has  been  in  the  poftcflion  of  feveral  ^pro- 
prietors iince  it  went  out  of  the  Houftoun  family,  and  is  now 
the  property  of  Archibald  Speirs,  Efq;  of  ElJerflie.  The 
preient  barony  officer,  a  man  near  80,  iayiS)  he  remembers  to 
have  feen  14  lairds  or  proprietors  of  Houftoun. 

Situation  and  Extent. — ^The  iituation  of  the  united  pariftief 
^f  Houftoun  and  Killallan  is  in  the  ihire  of  Renfrew,  origi- 
nally 


3i8  Staiiftkal  AcMM 

Dally  called  Sfrattigryfei  from  one  of  its  principal  riiren  1 
They  are  bounded  on  the  weft  by  Kilmalcolm ;  ou  tl^e  louth 
by  Kilbarchan ;  on  tiic  north  and  caft  by  the  pariCh  of  £r« 
ikine,  which  fcparates  it  from  Clyde.  It  is  about  6  EngUfli 
miles  long ;  about  3  miles  broad ;  and  >  miles  diftaot  from 
Paiflcfy,  which  is  the  puibyterv  feat.  The  church  of  HouA 
toun  is  about  9  Scots  ntilt-s  weft  of  Glafgow^  6  from  Port- 
Glafgowi  and  8  from  Greenock. 

The  only  cunfiderable  river  is  Gryfe,  which  fcparates  it 
from  Kilbarchan  on  ttie  fouth.  This  river  hath  its  (burce  ia 
the  high  moors  and  mountains  that  are  fituated  between  KJ- 
malcohn  and  the  L.irgs,  on  the  coalt  of  the  Firth  of  Clyde 
It  is  compoted  of  ievcral  ftrcamsi  which  unite  near  the  man- 
iion-houie  of  Duchai.  it  runs  rapiUly,  over  fevcrai  precipices^ 
lo  the  low  country  at  Fullwood,  where  it  meets  the  tide  \  af- 
ter which  it  moves  flowly,  in  a  ierpentine  courie»  reccivhig 
the  river  Black  Cart  at  Mofs  WalkinOiaw,  and  White  Cart 
at  Inchinnan  bridge,  and  thence  into  Clyde,  a  mile  below 
Renfrew.  In  this  river  there  is  trout,  moft  plenty  towards 
the  high  moors ;  in  the  lower  part  pike  and  perch  j  and,  with 
the  firft  flood  in  June  or  July,  (4  non  come  up  the  river  from 
Clyde,  and  ftill  more  with  floods  in  Ai^uft,  and  coottaue  ia 
Ihe  river  till  fpawning  time  is  over, 

Surfaa  and  Sotl-^Xn  the  upper  part  of  the  united  pftriihe% 
Ihe  ibii  is  generally  thin  and  dry,ftie  furface  is  unevenly  mix* 
ed  with  many  whm  rocks  in  the  hlgh<rft  parts,  and  much  of 
it  is  covered  with  (hort  heuh  and  bentgrafs,  moft  6t  for  paf- 
•urtng  fhccp.  rhe  foil  i^  better  as  it  defcends  toward  the 
low  country,  which  is  a  large  plam,  of  great  extent,  fro  the 
nia-iion-houfe  of  Barochan  and  Houftoun,  to  Glafgow  and 
Hamilton  i  and  in  breadth^  from  Paifleyi  and  the  foot  of 

Nielfiooi^ 


^  Itoufioun  and  Kiltattan.  319 

Kielftotin  parifh,  on  the  ibuth,  to  the  braes  and  hills  of  Kil- 
Patrick  en  the  north.  The  foil  in  the  plain  is  generally 
goodj  part  day,  part  loam,  or  mixed,  and  the  rents  high* 
The  manfibn-houfe  of  Barochaa  ftands  on  a  fireeftone  rock^ 
and  Hoaftoun  on  a  whin  rock,  about  one  Enghfh  niile  from 
each  other,  and  both  almoin  on  the  verge  of  the  plain.  There 
is  a  large  mof&  in  the  plain,  not  far  from  Barochan,  of  many 
hundred  acre^^  from  which  the  country  ail  around  get  peats 
lor  fueL 

jHr  and  Clinuai^^^Thc  air  in  the  upper  parts  of  Houftoun 
nd  KiDallan  is  (harp  in  winter  ;  the  (now  covering  the 
ground  when  thertf  is  fcarce  anyi  at  Houflonn  and  Barochan, 
and  none  in  the  plain  -below  ;  and  the  harveft  is  often  above 
a  week  earlier  at  Barochan,  Houftoun,  and  along  Gryfe  to 
Duchal  and  KihnaicOim,  than  in  any  other  part  of  the  aeigh- 
bouring  country. 

Wood  and  P/antwg.^^There  is  a  large  natural  wood  at 
Houftoun,  con(ifting  of  oak,  alder,  birchi  willow,  and  fome 
afli ;  belides  a  great  quantity  of  old  planted  timber  about  the 
snaoGon-houie,  confiding  of  elms,  |>lanes,  a(h,  limes,  and 
fqme  oaks ;  many  of  which  have  been  lately  cut  down  and 
fo\il  at  a 'good  price  There  is  aUb  a  confiderable  natural 
wood  atBarochan,  and  another  at  Boghall,  a  fmall  barony 
on  the  north  fide  of  the  paf  i(h«  the  property  of  B<)yd  Alex* 
ander,  Efq;  of  South  Birr,  and  was  once  the  (eat  of  another 
family  of  che  name  of  Fleming.  I'here  ifi  alto  a  great  quan* 
tity  of  planting  about  the  manfion  hou(e  of  fiajrochan,  con* 
fitting  of  a(h|  plane,  oak,  larch,  and  fir, 

Popuiation. — Population  has  lately  decrf  afed  in  the  country 
part  of  the  parilbi  by  the  union  of  iinaU  fitrms.    About  forty 

years 


S3« 


Siati/Hcal  Amount 


years  ago,  there  were  i6  faruis  in  tne  barony  of  FuUwood  i 
th<?rc  arc  only  8  at  prcfcnf.  At  thjt  time,  the  yearly  rent  of 
that  eAate  was  Utile  abovr  3000  merks ;  and,  when  Utc  iy 
fold,  the  rental,  by  improvement  on  the  land^  was  L.  700 

Sterling. 

Upon  a  furvey  lately  made  of  ^he  inhabitants  of  Hoaftoon 
and  Kiliallan,  they  are  as  follow  :> : 


Families 

Males  , 

Fc.iiales 

Uiuicr  15  . 

Froni  1 5  to  70 

Above  70 

Scrvai.is 

Sc^    jf-rs,  Relief,  8cc. 


i8j 
510 

361 
•43 

69 


The  whole  males  and  female*  amounting  to  1034  perfons. 

Marriages  and  births  entered  on  the  parifli  tcgtfter  for  Al 
laft  feven  jears  are  as  follows  : 


1784 
1785 
1786 
1787 
1788 

1789 
1790 

ATerage 


Marriages. 
12 
II 
II 

»3 

16 

8 

II 

82 


Btrthi. 
26 
27 

22 

3* 
28 

3« 

26 

188 
«5J 


tf  Ihulhvn  andKUhllan^  321 

*-   It  has  not  been  cuftomary  to  keep  a  regifter  of  burials  in 
the  parifhes  of  Houftoun  and  Killallan. 

The  old  Tillage  of  Houftoun  was  built  near  the  churcrh  and 
manfion-houfcy  and  confided  of  about  16  families.  All  the 
honfes  in  it  belonged  to  .  the  proprietor.  There  was  not  a 
fen  in  the  whole  pariih.  It  was  demolifhed  when  the  New 
Town  was  built,  as  was  fo'-merly  obferved ;  oqly  one  houfe 
and  the  fchoolhoufe  being  left  (landing.  In  the  new  village  are 
35  hoofea,  all  built  fince  the  year  1781^  inhabited  by  57  f»-' 
miheSi  which  ha$  made  a  confiderable  addition  to  the  popula- 
cioli  of  the  parifh  Six  of  the  houfes  are  two  ftories  high» 
and  two  of  them  flateu  }  many  of  them  contain  two  families^ 
or  one  family  and  a  (hop  for  looms.  No  houfes  have  fince 
been  demoliflied  of  any  conlcquence.  About  twelve  years 
ago,  the  manfion- houfe  on  the  ellate  of  FuUwood,  which  was 
a  large,  elegantf  modern  houfe,  and  made  a  fine  appearance 
in  the  country,  was  demollbed  by  Mr  8peirs  of  Eldcrilie,  af- 
ter be  purchafed  that  eftate,  and  emailed  it.  He  carried  Tome 
of  the  beft  of  th^  materials  to  tris  lioufe  at  King's  Inch,  and 
fold  the  remainder.  This  eilate  was  fomicrly  the  property 
of  the  Porterfields  of  Fullwood;  cadets  of  the  Duchal  family* 
The  new.  village  <if  Houftoun  is  neatly  built ;  the  front  walls 
are  of  hewn  ftooe  from  the  mairfion^houfe  and  tower  of 
Houftoun.  There  are  five  corn-mills  in  this  ^riih|  two  lint 
and  foiling- mills. 

Tradet  and  ManufaBures  -«-The  principal  trade  in  the  vil« 
lage  is  weaving.  I'here  are  42  looms,  moft  of  which  are 
employed  in  weaving  cotton,  muflinSf  lawns,  and  filk  gaufe : 
There  are  alio  a  few  carpenters,  taylor<.,  and  fhoemakers.  Near 
the  village,  there  js  a  large  bleachfiiki  belonging  to  Meflrs 
James  and  Thomas  Carliflcrs  from  Paiflcy,  whereon  is  whiten- 

Vol.  I.  S  f  *  ed 


329  StoKJUcal  Aceouat 

cA  about  ;o,ooo  fpindles  of  thread  and  prn,  ind  above  joot 
pieces  of  muflin  and  1  \wn  yearly.  This  and  tbe  weaving  b«^ 
iinefs  caufrs  a  ccnliderable  circulation  of  money  in  the  vil- 
lage and  nci^,hbourhood. 

Church,  Manfe,  Glebe,  and  Stifends.^Thc  kirk  of  Kilbllaa 
is  (\ill  (landing,  and  the  roof  is  entire.  1  he  heritors  were  ua> 
powered,  by  the  decreet  of  annexation,  to  iell  the  aunte, 
which  was  a  bad  houfc*  and  the  glebe,  to  enable  them  to  boild 
a  chiirch  at  Houftoun,  fufficient  to  accommodate  the  inlubi- 
tanr<i  of  both  parishes.  Fhe  new  church  of  Houftoan  was 
briiit  in  the  year  1775  and  can  accommodate  with  feats  i5t 
perfons  befidc  the  pariftiioners,  which  is  very  convenient 
when  the  Sacrament  of , the  Lord's  Supper  is  difpenied.  The 
glebe  at  Houfl^  un  is  about  fix  acres  of  arable  land,  befides 
garilrn.  houfe,  and  outhoufes.  The  an^nexcd  ftipend  amounts 
to  66  b(>lls  of  oat-meal,  14  bolls  of  barley,  and  L.  78  beer- 
ling,  of  old  and  new  money  ftipends.  The  greateft  part  of 
the  money  ftiprnds  ariles  from  q2  bolls  of  x>at-roeal,  con* 
verted  by  the  decreet  of  at^exation  at  10  merks  per  boO, 
being  the  ufual  converfion  at  that  time  ;  for  which  the  heri« 
tors  now  receive  16  s.  from  the  tenants  ;  which  has  turned 
out  to  be  a  confiderabte  diminution  of  the  ftipeods.  Tliis 
was  done  by  a  petition  from  the  heritors  to  the  Losth,  &c. 
with  eonient  of  the  pnibytery,  becauie  a  great  part  of  the 
united  parllhes  is  more  tit  for  pjfture  than  tiihge,  and  might 
in  time  be  ufed  for  that  purpofe.  The  above  money  ftipends 
c  'inprehend  L  40  Scots  for  communion  eles^ents.  &fr 
Monteath,  ordained  Fcb»  1 748,  is  now  paftor  of  the  tmrtcd 
parilbcs«  Mr  Robert  Carrick  was  lafl:  mtnifter  of  Houftoun 
^  pi-cvious  to  the  annexation  of  the  pariihes  ;  he  was  ordained 
in  the  year  1720  or  17219  and  died  May  i»  I77i»aged  Sp 
years^  10  months^  and  twenty  days« 


ofVoufiaun  and  KiUallan.  323 

SrAflo//.— The  public  fchool  is  at  the  church  1  where  read- 
ing Englifh,  writing,  arithmetic^  book-keeping,  and  fome- 
times  Latin,  are  taught.  The  number  of  fchoiars  are  about 
40  or  50  In  winter  I  but  fewer  in  fummer.  There  are 
alio  private  fchools  in  different  parts  of  the  parxfh.  The 
ichoolmafter's  falary  is  200  merks  \  he  receives  4  d.  for  a  bap- 
tiim,  and  is.  2  d«  for  a  marriage  proclamation  ;  and  a  fmall 
yearly  fom  as  feffion- clerk,  and  for  keeping  the  regiflers^  par* 
tkulady  an  exzH  account  of  the  poor's  funds. 

Pmt.— There  is  at  prefent  near  20  poor  people  who  are  fup* 
plied  from  the  poor's  funds :  Nearly  the  half  of  them  are  old, 
and  unable  to  work :  Some  of  them  are  poor  widows,  and  fmall 
children ;  others  infirm  or  difeafed.  The  poor's  ilock  is  L.  260 ; 
the  interefl  of  which,  with  the  weekly  colledUons  at  the 
church  dooTt  is  the  only  means  of  their  fupport  at  prefent. 
They  are  regularly  fupplled,  with  more  or  leis,  at  the  begin- 
»ing  of  each  quarter,  eipecially  the  aged  and  infirm^  as  far 
as  the  money  in  the  hand  of  the  trealurcr  will  go. 

tnchfuTiSi  and  Rents  of  Lands^  is^c. — Moft  part  of  the  pa* 
vi(h  is  incioied ;  the  upper  grounds  with  ftonc-walls,  and  the 
low  lands  with  thorn  hedges.  The  rent  of  the  upper  and 
billy  farms  is  from  10  s.  to  15  s.  an  acre  arable  ^  what  is 
rocky,  and  covered  with  heath,  is  of  fmall  value,  very  i'uitable 
for  planting  the  Scotch  fir,  larch,  and  oaks,  though  it  is  not 
yet  applied  to  that  uieful  and  profitable  purpoie.  The  rent 
in  the  low  land,  of  a  clay  and  loamy  foil,  is  from  20  s.  to 
30  «•  an  acre.  The  upper  or  hilly  farms  produce  oats,  fome 
peafe,  barley,  and  good  dry  potatoes.  1  he  farms  in  the 
plain  and  low  land  produce  oats,  barley,  peafe,  beans,  and 
whc^t.   Th<  farmers^  ot  late»  have  left  off  fowing  wheats 

thinking 


3^4  Statijlical  Aceoum 

thinking  it  a  troublcfo  i  c  and  unprofitable  crop.   Tbey  liavci 
for  many  years  paO,  (own  a  great  quantity  of  ryegrals  and 
clover- feedi  which  turns  to  good  account )  the  hay   is  com- 
monly fold  at   5  d,  and  6d.  a  Aone*     Ihey  have  a  ready 
market   for  the   bay  at   Greenock,   &c.    There  was    no- 
thing but  bog,  or  mi  adow  hay,  for  horfes  about  fifty  yean 
ifiro.     The   valuation  of  the  united   parilhes  of  Hoaftoao 
and  Killallan  amounts  to  L.  4057  :  8  :  o  Scots,    The  real 
rent  is  ne^irly  double^  if  not  more,  than  it  was  40  years  ago» 
The  rent  of  the  barony  of  Fullwood  at  that  time  was  aboot 
6  s    and  7  s.  an  acre,  and  now  there  is  none  of  k  bebw 
ao  s.    1  he  number  of  the  horfes  in  the  pari(h  cannot  be  wc8 
afcertained.  Far  .  ers,  who  have  only  about  half  a  pkmghgale 
of  lindi  more  or  lefs,  often  keep  only  one  horfe  in  fiiromer, 
buy  'not her  in  winter,  and  hire  one  to  make  a  three  horfe 
plough  in  the  fpring ;  and,  when  the  ploughing  is  over,  they 
fell  one  of  them.     Their  horfe?:  are  generally  of  a  high  price, 
viz.  from  20  to  2?  guineas.  I  hey  buy  them  young,  feed  them 
Well,  and,  aher  a  year  or  two.,  fell  them  to  advantage.     The 
fanners  who  have  a  ploughgate  of  land  or  more  keep  horfes 
in  proportion  to  their  labour.    Cows  cannot  be  faid  to  be  nu- 
Bierous.     A  farmer  that  has  half  a  )  loughgate  of  land  will 
have  6,  7,  or  8  milk  cows,  and  a  few  young  cattle,  in  pro- 
portion to  their  farms.   In  the  hilly  and  moorifli  ground^  thcf 
bring  up  more  young  cattle,   on  coarfe  pafture,  than  in  the 
low  part  of  the  country,  where  grafs  is  fcarce,  except  wbea 
io'^VL      1  here  are  not  muny  (heep  in   this  parifh,   except  a 
few  in  the  upper  and  uioorifh  farms  \  they  hurt  the  indofures 
and  the  milk- cows  grafs. 

Trtce  of  Labour  and  Provtftons.'-^O^X'^mtA^  in  this  fhirc,  for 
fome  years  paft,  has  been  from  1 1  d  to  i  s.  i  d.  per  peck, 
Laft  year  it  was  x  s.  z  J  d.  in  fummer  and  harveft  \  at  prefent 

it 


tf  Hou/latm  cne^  Kilkllan.  3^5 

It  is  generally  i  $•  i  d.  it  would  be  much  dearer  were  there 
not  a  great  quantity  imported  from  Ireland.  The  produce  of 
grain  in  this  (hire  is  not  iufficicnt  to  maintain  the  inhabitants 
one*half  of  the  year.  Faifley,  Port  Glafgow,  and  Greenock, 
are  yearly  increaGng  ;  new  villages,  cotton  and  ipinning  mills 
are  conftaatly  building.  The  wages  of  mechanics,  day-Uboui^ 
ers,  andticrvants,  are  more  than  double  what  they  were  4c  or 
50  years  ago.  A  day-labourer's  wages  is  1  s.  ad.  at  leaft ;  a 
Wright  or  houfe- carpenter  is.  6  d.  and  is.  8d, ;  a  mafoa 
1  s.  lod*  or  2s.  ;  a  taylor  pd.  and  10  d.  a  day ;  men  fer- 
Tants  from  L.  7  to  L.  10  a  year,  if  they  are  good  ploughmen  ^ 
women^fervants,  from  L.  i  :  10  :  o  6r  L«  2  the  half  year^ 
and  upwards.  The  farmers  generally  work  their  land  by 
hired  fenrantSt  if  they  have  not  children  fit  for  it,  ex- 
cept when  they  occafionally  employ  day  labourers  for  thrtfli^ 
ing,  or  in  harvcft.  Price  of  flcfli  meat  and  poultry  is  daily 
increafing ;  beef,  that  u(ed  to  be  (old  at  3  s.  is  now  6  s  and 
7  s.  a  itone  ;  and  mutton,  that  ufed  to  be  fold  40  years  ago^ 
at  2i  d.  and  3  d.  a  pound,  is  fold  at  5  d.  6  d.  and  6\  d. 
The  price  of  a  couple  of  good  hens  3  s.  or  3  s.  4  d.  Butter 
and  cheeie  is  double  what  it  was  at  the  above  mentioned 
time. 

Free  and  Lime'Jlorte.^^Thcrc  is  plenty  of  frceftone  in  both 
parifhes,  of  difierenr  qualities,  ibfter  and  harder,  very  near 
the  manfion-houfe  of  Barochan  and  Houftoun.  There  is 
both  coal  and  limeftone  in  the  eftate  of  Houftoun,  but  of  a 
hard  quality ;  the  limeftone  is  deep  in  the  ground,  and  ill  to 
bnm,  and  is  the  roof  of  a  thin  coal }  but,  when  the  lime  is 
well  burnt  by  a  (kilful  hand,  though  it  has  little  c&c£t  tht 
firft  year,  its  cffe£l  is  more  lafting  than  loiter  lime. 

^oftmrs  and  Dr^.—- The  inhabitants  of  this  parifh  are  ge« 

neraily 


320  BmI/KoJ  Account 

nerally  fober,  an^  regular  in  attending  public  worflup.  The 
farmers  arc  very  indnf^riotis.  In  the  fprin^  they  ctilrivatc 
their  land ;  in  fummcr  they  lead  lime  and  mannrr ;  and  in 
th^  hay  and  corn  harveft  tiroes  they  are  bnlTly  employed. 
They  are  decently  clothed,  efpecially  the  women  ;  many 
of  the  young  women  and  girts  in  the  village  flower  lawns 
and  niuflnsy  by  which  they  not  only  maintain  tbemlelvesi 
bi't  buy  fineries-  About  40  years  ago,  the  fineft  dre6  (rf*  the 
women,  old  and  young,  was  brown  or  blew  cloaks*  and 
cap<!  I  to  which  fcarlet  ones  fucceeded.  Scarlet  is  now  woni 
by  ^he  loweft  and.  pooreft  people.  The  women  generally  wear 
biack  filk  cioakS|  bonnets  of  various  ibapd^,  and  higk 
crowned  hats,  and  riding  habits ;  and  the  congregation  on  'Sab- 
bath appears  like  an  afiembly  of  well  dreflcd  and  &fhicmaUe 
ladies.  So  great  is  the  change  of  drefs  that  trade  and  luanu* 
faAures  have  made  among  the  common  people  10  this  part  of 
the  kingdom.  The  young  men  appear  at  kirk  and  market 
drefled  in  iioglilh  cloth,  and  good  linens*  They  wear  hatSi 
smd  bonnets  are  now  rarely  fecn. 

AntiquUies  —-In  the  barony  of  Barochan,  and  on  the  fids 
of  the  public  road^  ftood  an  antient  crols,  about  ix  or  12 
feet  high,  fet  in  a  large  pedeftal  of  undreft  ftone.  The 
crofs  had  been  neatly  hewn,  with  much  wreathed  carviag 
on  all  fides.  No  letters  appear  on  it:  It  is  much  defa^ 
ced  with  ruin  and  ftorm.  In  a  fquare  part  of  the  Iroot  are 
a  rows  of  fmall  images ;  in  the  upper  row  there  are  4  with 
garments  to  their  feet  \  and  4  in  the  under  row :  Each  fecm 
to  hold,  in  their  left  haftd,  a  club  over  their  Qioulders,  that  is 
thickeft  at  the  hx  end.  In  a  fquare  on  the  back  part  there 
art  alio  2  rows  of  fmall  figures,  4  in  each  row,  much  defaced^ 
and  coarfely  executed :  But  when,  by  whom,  or  on  what  oc- 
calioQ  it  was  erected,  there  is  no  riscord  or  tradition.    Ho^ifi 

caU 


%f  Hou/lom  ami  KilkiLnu  $^j 

call  tt  a  Daniih  crofs :  Perhaiit  it  might  be  intended  as  a  de*i 
votioaal  crols  for  travellers. 


Barochan  is  an  antient  family.  The  original  anceAor  of 
that  name  is  (aid  to  have  come  from  Flanders  in  King  Da« 
-vid'b  reign ;  and  aflumed  their  firname  and  defignation  from 
tlie  country  of  the  Fiexnin.,s.  Une  of  thc.ii  is  a  witnef:»  to  a 
diarter  in  the  reign  of  King  Alexander  IIK  and  to-another 
charter  in  tUe  year  (309-  In  the  reign  o^  James  IV.  Wil- 
liam Fleming  of  Barochan  was  IherifFof  Lanark^  and  killed 
"With  the  King»  and  many  of  the  oobiLty  and  gentry,  in  the 
battle  of  Floudon.  This  family  has  always  been  much  reipec- 
ted  in  the  country. 

The  crofs  above  mentioned  was  lately  removed  by  Malcoln 
Flemmgt  £fq;  the  prefent  proprietor,  to  a  neighbouring  hill^ 
vrhere  the  old  man  lion  houie  of  Barochan  formerly  ftood. 
This  hou(e  is  reported  to  have  been  burnt  by  the  LngiiOi^ 
probably  in  the  reign  of  King  £dwardy  and  his  invalion  of 
Scotland* 

The  manfion-houie  of  Houftoim  was  alfo  very  antienf. 
There  was  a  large,  and  very  high  tower,  on  the  nortb  wed 
corner,  which  was  the  moft  antient  part  of  the  building,  with 
a  lower  houfe  joined  to  the  eaft  end  of  the  tower,  with  vaults 
below,  and  a  very  long  and  wide  paved  hall  above,  with  an« 
tique  windows  in  the  front,  and  without  plafter  in  the  roof. 

The  timbers  of  the  roof  were  arched,  and  made  of  mafly 
oak.  The  other  parts  ot  the  buildmg  appeared  to  be  addi- 
tions, fubfequently  made  as  they  became  necefTary.  It  was  a 
complete  fquare,  with  a  large  area  in  the  infide.  On  the  front 
tt  the  Ibuth  were  two  turrets,  between  which  was  the  grand 

entry 


328  Statijlical  Account 

entry  into  the  area,  arched  above,  and  (ecured  by  a  port  cul. 
lis.  The  building  was  a  real  fortification  ;  being  large,  and 
built  on  an  elevated  fituation,  it  had  a  lordly  appearance, 
overlooking  the  whole  plain  towards  Paifley  and  Glafgow. 
About  10  years  ago  it  was  demolilhed,  except  the  eaft  fide. 
Mr  Macrae,  who  was  then  the  proprietor,  defiring  to  hare 
the  old  village  near  it  removed  to  a  greater  diftance,  feued 
ground  for  building  a  new  village;  and,  to  encourage  the  peo- 
ple tb  build,  he  gave  them  the  Aones  of- the  manfion-houfe 
gratis.  The  tower  was  fo  tliick,  and  the  (lone  and  lime  fe 
ftrongly  cemented,  that  they  were  obliged  to'  blaft  it  with  gun- 
powder. Mr  Macrae  propofed  at  that  time  to  build  a  new 
houfe  for  himfclf,  or  to  make  an  addition  to  the  fide  that  was 
then  {landing,  and  was  the  newcft  part  of  the  whole;  but  that 
plan  was  never  executed  ;  and  the  whole  is  now  a  ruin.  The 
building  IS  faid  to  have  been  originally  a  religious  hoofe  of 
Monks  of  the  Ciftertian  order. 

In  an  a!le  adjoining  to  the  eaft  end  of  the  church  are  fere* 
ral  fepulchral  monuments;  particularly  a  magnificent  tomb  of 
neat  workmanihip,  in  free  ftone.  In  the  front,  under  a  cano* 
fy,  refembling  an  alcove  bed,  are  placed  two  ftatues  as  big  as 
the  life:  The  one  is  faid  to  be  an  cfEgy  of  Sir  Patrick  Houf- 
toun  of  that  Ilk,  who  died  in  the  year  1450;  and  the  other 
of  his  lady,  Annes  Campbell,  who  died  in  the  year  1456. 
The  one  rcprefentir.g  Sir  Patrick  is  drcfled  in  a  coat  of  mail, 
his  head  Iyin;>  on  a  pillow,  and  his  feet  on  a  lion  with  a  wid« 
m(»uth,  hoUling  a  lamb  in  his  paws  under  him.  The  image 
of  li.e  hiiy  is  drcfled  as  in  grave  clothe  ,  neatly  cut  in  ftonc. 
Both  their  hand^  are  clcv.;tc:!,  as  m  a  praying  or  fupplicating 
poRure.  Rouml  the  vtri^e  rf  the  tomb  there  is  an  infcription 
in  Sjyon  en  vitals,  but  lo  much  effaced,  that  little  of  it  can  be 
diftiiicily  rc;ia. 

Upoa 


§f  Haufiwn  ofid  KillaliofU  529 

trpon  tlie  Ibuth  wall  of  the  aile  there  is  a  large  frame  of 
tfmberi  on  which  2  piAures,  (eemingly  done  with  oil  colours^ 
but  much  worn  out.  On  the  right  fidei  a  man  in  complete 
armour,  refembling  that  of  a  Knight  Templar,  with  an  in* 
icription  in  Saxon  characters  over  his  bead,  fome  words  of 
which  are  effaced— Hie  jacet  Oominns  Joannes  Houftoun  de 
•odem  miles,  qui  obiit  anno  Domt  iicccc*— On  the  left  hand 
a  piAure  of  his  lady,  alfo  much  efi^ed,  and  over  her  head 
the  following  infeription  :— liic  jacet  Oomina  Maria  Colqo- 
koun,  ff  jonia  quondam  di£ki  Domini  Joannis,  qua  obiit  fepti» 
mo  die  menfis  Oftobris,  an  Dom  M^cccc^'-quinto^— -On  the 
lame  fide  ci  the  aile  is  a  fine  monument,  with  a  variety  of 
emblematical  figures,  part  of  fine  free  llooc,  but  moft  of  it 
ftucco.  On  the  top  is  the  image  of  an  old  man,  with  long 
flowing  hair,  and  a  crown  on  his  head,  with  i  look  robe^ 
having  one  foot  on  a  larse  globe,  with  a  fmall  ima,  e  on  each 
fide,  holding  a  trumpet  to  their  mouth.  Acrofs  the  globe  is 
a  chain  hanging  down  on  each  fide,  and  fixed  below ;  where 
there  are,  in  a  (landing  pofture,  two  images  refembling  chii* 
dren,  each  holding  a  Ibk  of  the  chain :  The  one  on  the  right 
hand  has  three  hces ;  the  other,  on  the  left  hand,  is  blind* 
folded,  as  with  a  cloth  bound  over  the  eyes.  There  are  fe« 
▼eral  other  figures  00  the  fides^  and  below  the  foUowii^  in^ 
fcrqptions 

Hie  fiu  eft  Domina  Anna  Hamikonia,  dileftlffima  Domini 
Patricii  Houfioun,  de  eodem,  Baronetti,  conjux  fua,  quae  obiit 
tertio  die  idus  Abias,  anno  falntis  partae,  milefiimo  iexcente^ 
fimo  et  feptaagefimo-oftavo. 

There  have  been  ieveral  urns,  with  Tttixt^  of  human  bonq^^ 
{btuid  both  in  Houftoun  and  Killallan.  One  was  lately  found 
Ifl  the  brow  of  a  hill  on  tkc  road  fide  1  and  mhers  have  been 

Yosr*  I«  T  t  Iboad 


3  3^  SMiflkal  Account 

fboncf  under  cairns  of  fmall  itones  TheTe  urns  were  pro- 
bablj  Romiin  urns,  this  diAri£t  being  part  of  a  Roman  pro- 
vince, and  within  the  line  of  Antoninns's  wall^  or  Graham'i 
-djke.  i>r  Henry,  in  his  Hittory  of  Britain,  oUerrcs,  that 
the  antient  nations  of  South  Britain  burnt  the  bodies  of  the 
dead,  according  to  the  pradice  of  the  antient  Gauls^  firom 
whom  they  were  deicended ;  and  that  this  is  unqueliionabl; 
evident  from  the  great  number  of  urns,  of  Britifh  workmaa- 
ihip,  which  have  been  found  in  feTerai  pUces,  foil  of  aflics, 
and  human  bones  half  burnt ;  and  thefe  umsi  with  their  ?^ 
rious  contents,  were  depofited  in  iepulchres,  caves,  and  bir- 
rows  or  tumuli,  according  to  the  prevailing  cuftom  of  tiic 
country  j  but,  as  the  bones  of  men  lying  at  full  length,  witb- 
out  any  marks  of  burning,  have  been  found  in  fomt  of  thefe 
barrows,  it  appears,  that,  on  Tome  occaGons,  the  antient  Bri- 
tons of  the  fouth,  both  of  Scotland  and  England,  buried  thdr 
dead  without  burning,  and  that  the  Caledonians  always  imd 
their  dead  in  deep  graves. 

About  20  years  ago,  when  the  country  people  in  this  ps- 
rifli  were  digging  for  Itones  to  inclofe  their  farms,  they  met 
with  (everal  chefts  or  coffins  of  flag  (tones,  iet  on  their 
edges,  fides,  and  ends,  and  covered  with  the  fame  fort  of 
ftoncs  above,  in  which  were  many  human  bones  of  a  large 
iize,  and  (everal  fculls  in  fome  of  them.  In  one  was  found 
many  trinkets  of  a  jet  black  fubftance,  fbme  round,  others 
round  and  oblong,  and  others  pf  a  diamond  (hape,  &c.  all 
perforated.  Probably  they  were  a  necklace.  There  was  a 
thin  piece,  about  2  inches  broad  at  one  end,  and  perforated 
with  many  holes,  hut  narrow  at  the  other;  the  broad  end, 
full  of  holes,  feemed  to  be  defigned  for  fufpending  oiaDf 
trinkets,  as  an  ornament  on  the  breaft.  The  ground  irbcrc 
thefe  (tone  coffins  were  found  was  a  little  railed,  with  a  ai^' 

tors 


^  H^uJIatm  and  KiUallan*  331 

tore  of  fmall  ftoocs  and  earth,  in  the  form  of  a  barrow  or 
tumulut* 

Bat  whether  thefe  ftone  coffins  were  older  than  the  Ro- 
man  government  in  this  country,  or  later,  or  upon  what  oc« 
caiion  io  many  people  were  buried  there  in  that  manner,  and 
feveral  in  ohe  ftone  cheO,  is  not  known.  It  feems  to  have 
been  the  confeqaence  of  a  battle  or  Ikirmifh  between  two 
Loftile  pari^;  which  wat  the  cafe  not  aoo  years  ago,  be- 
tween families,  through  moft  part  of  Scotland,  who  often 
met  their  enemy,  with  their  vaflais  and  dependants,  and 
Jlaughtered  one  another. 

About  half  a  mile  to  the  fbuth  weft  of  Houftoun  manCon- 
houfe,  there  is  a  mount  compofed  of  a  vaft  number  of  fmall 
ftones,  in  which  was  found  one  of  the  like  ftone  coffins ;  and, 
opp'ofite  to  it,  direftly  northward,  there  is  another  of  the 
fame  kind,  compoied  of  earth  and  (mail  ftones,  in  a  circular 
form.  They  were  both  lately  enlarged,  inclofed,  and  plant- 
ed with  foreft  trees.  I  hefe  two  moonts  may  have  been  the 
ground  of  two  oppofite  camps  of  warriors,  fighting  near  the 
place  where  the  ftone  coffins  were  founds 

NUM- 


S39  Btatijiscai  Auom0 

NUMBER     Sjai7. 

FARISIf  OF  BIGGAE^ 
fij  (hi  Rta.  Mr  WxLLiAM  Wats^k.- 


Situathny  RicUnt^  and  Surfan. 

THE  pariih  of  Biggar,  in  the  coanty  of  Lanari:,  is  the 
feat  of  a  Preibytqy,  a  branch  of  the  ^ynod  of  Lo- 
thian and  iweeddale.  It  is  about  6  ii^iles  long  froiD  eaftti 
yfrt&,  \  and  3  j  bro^  from  fputh  to  north ;  the  figure  being  t 
fort  of  oyal»  with  (bme  UTegulaM*ities,  The  forfece  is  partlj 
liillyt  and  partly  leyel}  in  fome  places  heathy,  in  othos 
green,  and  interfperlcd  with  fcrtfle  fields;  and  is  alowlt 
equally  divided  between  tillage  and  pafture. 

Rent,  CSV.— rThe  prefent  rental  of  the  pariih  may  amoaot 
tp  ahouf  L.  1 8oo,  I  he  heft  ground  about  the  town  leu  at 
30  s.  and  fome  particular  fpot:*  yield  a  rent  of  40  s»  an  acre; 
l)ut,  in  general,  the  land  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Bigger  iets  at 
|>ctwcen  20  s  and  30  %  an  acre,  being  moitiy  ditthbutcd  into 
fevcral  fmall  farms  of  L«  10  and  li  15  each.  Iq  the  couotrf 
part  of  the  pariih,  fome  farms  let  at  L.  50*  others  at  L.  '0| 
an«J  one  at  L.  x^ot^r  annum:  but  th^-:  rate  per  acre  cannot 
be  eafily  afcertained,  as  they  confift  moftly  of  fome  tole^Wf 
good  'w  grounds,  and  a  confiderable  extent  of  hilly  poor 
|an4»  which  is  employc4  f<v  paaore.    There  has  bem  no 

gre^t 


jf  Biggar»  Hi 

y«tt  »lter»tkm  «f  the  fize  of  tarms  here  thefe  man^  yean 
paft.  The  parifli,  in  general,  is  open  and  uninclored,  though 
there  arc  feveral  indofure*  here  and  there,  efpccially  nea» 
the  town  The  number  of  horfcs  may  be  about  1 25,  and  rf 
iheep  100  fcore.  There  are  about  40  heritors  in  the  panfli, 
including  portioners  oi  Biggar  town }  Lord  Elphinftone  being 
the  principal  proprietor,  and  Mr  Brown  of  Edmonftone  thi 
9Dly  refideat  heritor  of  any  confideration. 

jPrica  tf  Prwifitm  and  Z^ar.— Butcher  meat  generally 
ftlb  at  }  d.  3i  d.  or  4  d  a  pound ;  butter  7  d.  a  pound  j  heni 
^om  IS.  to  IS.  2d.}  and  chickens  4  d.  each.    The  fuel 
nfed  here  is  coal  frqm  Douglas,   1 1  miles  off;  3  loads,  or  i 
l^orfe  draught,  co.r.es  to  3  s.  3  d. ;  but  Ibme  people  ufe  peats 
from  Biggar  mofs,  though  thclc  are  difficult  to  procure,  and 
•t  the  fame  time  expentive.     An  expert  man  fervant,  main- 
lined ma  farmer's  family,  will  receive  from  L.  5  :  10  :  o  to 
L.  6  *«•  annum,  and  a  maid  lirvai-t  L.  2:  lo:o  to  L.  3-, 
which  is  tw.cc  as  much  as  they  got  40  years  ago.    A  day 
labourer  has  8  d.  a  day  in  fummcr,  and  6  d  in  wmter  •,  but, 
^  harreft,  the  daily  wages  bf  a  man  are  10  d.  and  of  a  wo- 
aunSd.  Carpenters  earn  i  s.  3  d.  a  day,  and  m«16ns  i  s.  6  d. 

•r  IS.  8d. 

P<^«/irf«fi».-^Total  inhabhantt          .          •         •  937 

Ip  the  town  of  Biggar 3»9 

In  the  country  part  of  the  parifh          •         •        •  34« 

Under  I  ©years  of  age *®7 

From  i«  to  2* \ 

.        .      410 
From  20  to  50 

•         •     104 
Ifrom  JO  to  70        •        •     .    •        • 

^l^oTC  70  years  of  age        ,         ?         .       •        •        37 

Th« 


334  Staftnical  Jcantnt 

The  rfttms  made  to  Dr  Wcbfter  about  1750  was  1098  (bob; 
fo  that  the  po;)ulition  has  declined  i6t  fince  thatperi(>d; 
though  it  app  -nrs  that  the  population  of  the  town  has  been 
for  fome  years  paft  on  the  increafe.    In  this  town  there  are^ 

MerchantSi  or  (hopkeepers 7 

Shoemakersi  including  journeymen          «        •         •  15 

Phylician         •         •         •         •          •         •         •         •  I 

Surgeons,  including  4  apprentices        •         •         •         •  7 

Attorney        •••         •  •«■•! 

Minifter  of  the  Eftabliftied  Church           •           •        *  •  i 

w^                       Burger  Seceders         •         •          •         •  X 

■                        Relief  Congregation          •          •          •  I 

This  place  ftands  on  a  dry  and  elevated  fituation,  favoured 
with  a  southerly  expolure,  and  is  alk'wed  to  be  a  healthy  and 
well  aired  town ;  no  houfes  are  unoccupied  ;  anJ  three  new 
ones  have  been  lately  built.  There  arc  three  fairs  held  here 
yearly ;  one  at  Candlemas,  another  in  July,  and  a  third  in 
November. 

Church  and  StipenJ^-^Thc  collegiate  church  of  Biggar  was 
built  in  i|;45i  by  Malcolm  3d  Lord  Fleming,  Lcrd  High 
Chamberlain  of  Scotland,  and  largely  endowed  by  him  for 
the  fupport  of  a  provoft,  8  pi^ebendaries,  4  Gnging  boys,  and 
6  poor  men.  It  is  built  in  the  form  of  a  crofs;  the  fabric  is 
entire ;  but  the  fteeple  and  fpire  have  never  been  finifhedL  It 
isjuftnow  undergoing  a  reparation,  and,  when  completed, 
will  be  a  decent  place  of  worfhip.  The  (lipend  is  L.  55 : 1 1 : 1 1^ 
in  money,  3  chalders  of  oat-meal,  and  1  chalder  of  barley} 
befides  which,  the  miniiter  has  L.  2  :  10  :o  allowance  for 
grafs,  and  a  glebe  of  2  acres  and  3  roods,  worth  yearly  about 
li.  3  :  & :  0,    Lord  Eiphinftone  is  patron, — A  fiurgher  meet- 


mg^onk  was  built  in  the  town  of  Biggar  about  1760 ;  and 
about  1 7  60  a  Relict  houic  was  alio  ereAed  there,  the  mem« 
bcrs  of  which  are  colleaci  from  16  neighbouring  parilhes. 

P«^r.— The  colleAions  at  the  church  doors,  profits  of  the 
mort-cloths,  &c.  amount  to  L  25  a  year,  which  is  difburfed 
^mong  about  a  dozen  of  itated  penlioners,  and  in  giving  oc- 
cafional  lupplies  to  otht-rs.  The  poor  belonging  to  the  fec- 
taries  get  fomc  kind  of  lupply  from  their  own  meetings ;  but, 
in  general,  it  is  very  madequatc ;  fo  that  they  arc  ibmetimes 
oblfgeJ  to  be  relieved  from  the  parifii  funds.  The  Burgher 
and  KcUcf  congregations  are  ohen  in  debt.  Part  of  their 
colle£tions  arc  applied  in  paying  their  minifters  ftipend,  keep- 
ing their  meeting  houfes  in  repair^  and  paying  intereft  of 
money  borrowed. 

Roads. — ^The  public  roads  in  this  parifli^  and  in  the  county 
in  general,  are  improving  every  day.  About  30  years  ago^  the 
inhabitants  wrought  at  them  a  certain  number  of  days  in  the 
jear  *,  while  this  pradice  continued,  the  work  was  performed 
with  rcluftance.  and  the  roads  kept  in  bad  repair :  But  now, 
eacti  farm  pays  a  certaii  iiim;  and  the  roads,  undei:  the  in- 
fpcftion  of  truOees,  are  well  made,  and  preierved  in  excellent 
repair,  proper  materials  being  at  hand.  There  is  one  turn- 
pike in  the  parilh  ;  and  the  prejudices  of  the  country  people 
againfV  turnpikes  are  diminifhing,  as  they  now  fee  the  advan* 
tages  ii  good  roads,  which  here  enables  one  horfe  to  carry 
from  8  to  10  bars  of  lead  fro  :  Leadhills  in  a  cart ;  whereas 
5  or  6  bars  were  thought  a  fufficient  load  before. 

Mifcellanmu  Obfer^jations. — ^The  want  of  manufafhires,  and 
thr  high  price  of  fi'*!,  occafions  rather  an  indolent  hahit 
among  the  lower  claflcS|  in  whom  a  tafte  for  drefs  feeus  to 

be 


33<7  SfaiiJIical  Aammt 

be  on  the  increafing  htnd }  and  tea  drioking  it  more  < 
than  it  was  20  years  ago.  The  moll  prevalent  diiie|i|>cn 
Jeem  to  be  flow  and  intermitting  fevers.  Nothing  fingular 
occurred  here  in  the  firarcity  of  1782  and  17^3.  'I lie  be 
tors  aflefied  themfelves  in  a  iiim  of  money  for  pmx:haling  < 
meal,  which  was  fold  at  a  reduced  price  to  Inch  perloos  as 
the  heritors  or  kirk  fcflion  deemed  objedcs  of  diltreis. 

Antifuitiis^^^hx  the  weft  end  of  the  town  of  Biggar  is  a 
tumulus»  which  appears  never  to  have  been  opened  ;  and 
there  are  veftiges  of  tlirce  campSf  each  of  a  rounUiih  figuret 
at  different  places  in  the  neighbourhood  There  is  a  tradi- 
tion of  a  battle  having  been  fought  at  the  eaft  end  of  the 
town,  between  the  bcots,  under  the  command  of  Sir  William 
IVallacet  and  the  Engltfh  army,  who  were  faid  to  be  6o,04« 
ftrongy  wherein  a  great  Ikughtcr  was  made  on  both  fide^ 
specially  among  the  latter. 


HUIC 


^  Ourfjre.  337 

KuMBER    XXXV. 
t'ARISH   OF  DUNSTRE4 

Sj  tbi  Aev.  ilr  J6hn  BkiDFtiTtt. 


Orfgifi  ffiift  Noma 

DUNSIRi  or  Dunfior,  iti  the  C^ItiCi  fignifics  the 
Lbng  Hill  I  thence  it  appeirs  that  a  remarkable  hiUt 
called  Ounfyre,  near  the  fmall  Tillage  trbere  the  churck 
ftands,  has  given  name  to  that  TiilagCi  and  confequentlj  to 
Uie  paridi.     '  ^ 

SkuaAnt  Extent^  tfntf  5iif;^.----Thjt  pirifh  lies  at  the  eaT- 
tem  extreitaftj  of  the  coontj  of  Lanark,  in  the  prefbTtery  of 
Biggar,  ^nd  fynod  of  Lothian  and  Tweeddale.  The  arable 
land  lies  betweed  the  hill  of  Dunfjr^  and  the  range  of  Dol- 
phington  and  Walfton  hills  to  the  Ibuth,  which  are  aboot 
a  mile  diftant  from  the  former^  Between  them  is  a  flat  vab^ 
extending  near  three  miles  in  length,  through  the  middle 
of  which  the  fmall  river .  Medwin  (the  fouthem  boundary  of 
the  parifli)  mns  in  a  grinding  dircAion.  The  houies  are  pla- 
ced between  the  Medwin  and  the  hill  of  Dunfyrci  and  on  ri- 
fing  grounds^  at  the  weft  extremity  of  the  flat  lands^  many 
of  them  in  fituations  improper  for  the  fiurms.  The  reft  of 
the  parifli  is  flieep  paftuit,  ftretohing  to  the  north  \  fo  thal^ 
though  the  houfes  are  nearly  m  a  line  from  eaft  to  weft,  the 

Vot.  I.  XT  n  extent 


^3^ 


Staiijiiccri  Accmnt 


extent  of  the  parilh  is  about  five  miles  every  way  ;  and  it  fc 
bounded  by  the  parifhcs  of  Carnwath,  Weft  Calder^  Linton^ 
Dolphington,  WaKlon^  and  LibbertDD. 

aimate  and  Difiafes.—T\M  parifli  is  placed  very  high, 
being  about  700  feet  above  the  .level  of  the  eift  and  weft 
feas,  from  which  Dunfyre  is  almoft  equi-diftant  i  lo  that  the 
Med  win  beiog  divided  by  a  mill^iain  at  the  eaft  end  of  the 
parifli,  one  half  of  the  ftrcam  runs  te  the  Clyde,  and  the  o- 
ther  half  to  the  Tweed.  The  air  is  pretty  good,  though  ra- 
ther moift.  The  prevalent  Hfflrem^rs'arc  rhcumatifm,  aad 
nervous  difordcrs ;  the  laft,  it  is  imagined,  arc  partly  ow- 
ing to  the  want  of  ciroilfttion .  of  i^r  ^  the  houfes^  the  win- 
jdows  of  which  formerly  hadimoveyble  tiirfKir^eanres  beUm, 
<iind  glafit  tfboYo,  now  the  viifiofMiare  frOied,  and  fc«rccly 
'any  of  them  can  be  openedl' 

c.  '  .    •       .  •     ■  . 

Population.^Oti  the   I  ft  of  January  1791,  there  were  ia 

the  pariihi 


IVlale^ 

• 

• 

f'emales 

• 

Individnais 

1 
• 

lETnder 

loyeits 

"of  age  < 

•From 

•10 

to 

■%ol 

26 

itO 

'5* 

•5         .'.., 

30 

1# 

>o'  ■ 

40 

10 

-ilo   . 

•%~      ' 

so 

19 

69      .1 

60 

to. 

70 

•>« . 

•70 

to 

89     . 

A-Mt. 

•80' 

«0 

JSf* 

"■X^r-it-T 


S 


i«3 

177 

88 

80 
60 

37 

4* 
30 

14 
12 

7 
360 

By 


By  fliC;  jre(kurn«  made  .to  DrWebftcr  about  17501  there 
were  359  iobabitants  then  iq  the  parifh,  fo  that  it  appears 
the  pc^Hilatioii.  has  made  little  or  no  progrefs  m  40  years^ 
though  i|  is  fs^d  that,  about  17831  th^  number  of  mhabitants 
was  about  409^  th&decreaie  iince  that  p^ripd  beiog  owing  to 
the  ei)l9iigemQ9t  of  farms,  and  pulling  down  of  cottages.  Ail 
the  pariibionorsi  except  about  40  leAaries  of  various  denomi- 
nations^  are  of  the  eftabliOied  church  \  and,  from  the  regi£- 
tersi  it  appears  there  were  14  bapcifed,  and  9  burled^  betweea 
ift  January  1788  and  i ft  January  1791.  There  are  in  the 
pariih  three  heritors,  none  of  whom  refide,  one  clergyman, 
twelve  farmers,  two.ftudents,  a  few  weavers,  fmiths,  mafbnsj 
Wrights,  and  taylors,  who  have  about  half  a  dozen  appren- 
tices. 

Ecclifiaftual  State. — The  annual  value  of  the  living  is 
L.  100,  exclufive  of  the  manfe  and  glebe,  which  laft  may  be 
worth  L.  10  a  year.  The  King  is  patron,  and  the  parfon  is 
titular  of  the  tythes.  The  manfe  was  built  in  1756.  The 
kirk  is  old,  but  in  tolerable  repair.  The  number  of  poor- re- 
ceiving charity  are  7  or  8,  fupplied  by  the  colle£iions,  and  the 
intereft  of  a  fmall  fund  of  L.  90. 

Natural  ProduSltms^  {^r.— In  general,  there  Is  not  much 
wood  in  the  pariOi  ;  it  Is  chiefly  fir,  a(h,  and  a  few  limes. 
Some  oats  are  fent  to  the  Glafgow  market^  as  are  alfo  fheep, 
and  turnip  fed  cattle.  The  artificial  graflcs  are  clover,  rye- 
grafs,  and  a  little  rib-grafs  \  the  X\vn^%  of  fowing  and  reaping 
are  various*  In  good  i'eafons,  the  harveft  here  is  thxee^  in  a 
wet  year  fix,  weeks  later  than  in  Mid  or  £aft  Lothian.  Dun- 
fyre  Htll  is  yocky  and  gk'cen«  The  other  rifing  gfouods  in 
the  pariOi  afe  covered  with  black  h^th.  Peat  is  produced 
in  the  par ifli  \  li^t  there  is  no  coal  nearer  than  twelve  milesl 

The 


34^  StaHftical  Aefma 

The  land  rent  in  1735  was  L.  5001  it  may  perliapt  be  aov 
nearly  doubled  %  and  the  parifli  is  divided  into  twelve  fanns, 
one  of  which  is  wlioDjr  (heep  pafttire.  The  daj-wages  %£  a 
mafon  and  carpenter  are  i  s.  6  d.  each ;  ol  a  tajlor  i  s» ;  of 
a  day-labourer  is.}  ploughmen  get  from  L.  tf  to  L.  7»  and 
women  fervants  from  L.  3  to  L.  4  /#r  armum.  The  peopk 
are  fober,  economical^  and  induftrioos.  The  lervantt  arc 
well  fed  and  treated  1  and,  in  feed  time  and  harveft,  none 
in  Scotland  can  be  more  alert.  The  Medwin  produces  a  fof 
trouts« 

Afttiquities.'^Thtre  is  a  row  of  Iqmlchral  cairns  nmniog 
from  the  eaft  end  of  this  parilh  upon  the  edge  of  a  mnir  to- 
wards Linton.  Two  of  them  the  prefent  incumbent  has 
feen  opened ;  in  one  the  body  had  been  buried  in  a  large 
coffin  of  feveral  unwrought  freeftoncs,  in  the  other  i^ras  found 
a  fmall  urn* 

Mijcellant^us  ObfervBtkmj.^^Tht  foil  in  the  parifli)  and  ia 
all  that  tra£t  of  country  which  ftretches  from  hence  to  La- 
nark is  in  general  light  and  fandy  \  the  arable  land  being  fre- 
quently intef  fperfed  withy  or  bordering  on,  peat-mo(s.  The 
foil  is  well  adapted  for  raiiing  turnips  and  potatoes,  though  it 
is  only  of  late  that  the  culture  of  t|ie  former  has  been  intro- 
duced. In  generali  this  tra£t  is  ftiU  uninclofed.  Inclofurq, 
with  belts  and  clumps  of  planting,  would  muck  iqppft>ve  the 
parifli,  by  (heltering  the  grounds,  and  meliorating  the  cli- 
mate. It  is  a  queftion  of  importance  how  thefe  fences  could 
be  madp  at  the  cheapeft  rate.  Thom-hedgea  are  impraAi* 
cable  here,  as  the  foil  has  many  variations  froin  good  to  bad, 
where  thorns  cannot  be  reared*  Stones  are  not  every  where 
to  be  got ;  and,  befldes,  the  poverty  of  the  ground  will  hardly 
beartheexpenceaferoftinglion^wallK  Perh?f8  tnrf-dyk^ 


.  rfDunfyre.  S4t 

'^U  €oped»  Is  the  only  mode  that  can  be  adopted ;  thefe  wil) 
ftand  to  rear  a  verge  of  fir-trees  until  they  are  pretty  much 
out  of  danger  from  being  deftroyed  by  cattle ;  and,  if  the 
puter*row  of  the  belts  were  planted  thick  with  larch,  which 
is  a  hardy  fort  of  wood,  this  of  itfelf  would  be  a  good  fence, 
and  fupply  the  place  of  the  turf  dykes  when  they  begin  tp 
fail*  Upon  the  whole,  nothing  can  be  done  effeAually  for 
the  improvement  of  this  country  without  draining  and  fcreen- 
iDg.  Perhaps  the  rents  might  be  thus  railed  one-third  ip 
twenty  years  time.  The  gentlemen  of  this  part  of  the  coun- 
try feem  to  have  no  idea  of  building  villages,  though,  as  fuel 
b  plenty,  they  might  be  foon  peopled. 


ijUMt 


34^  Siai^ical  Acewnt 

NUMBER     XXXVI. 
PARISH    OF   YRSTER. 
By  tie  Rtu.  Mr  Jambs  InNbs. 


NafM,  Siiu^im,  and  Mfiitat*  < 

THE  aotient  name  of  this  pari(h  was  Botbons,  when  die 
feat  of  the  family  of  Tweeddale  was  tt  the  old  caftle, 
about  a  mile  from  their  prefent  refidence  ;  but,  after  the  Re- 
formation! the  family  left  the  caftle,  and  began  to  build  the 
houfe  they  now  inhabit,  which  they  then  called  Tefter,  and 
the  parifli  has  ever  (ince  gone  by  the  fame  name.  This  pa« 
rifh  is  iituated  in  the  county  of  Eaft  Lothian,  prefbytery^  of 
Haddington,  and  fynod  of  Lothian  and  Tweeddale,  beipg 
bounded  by  the  parifhes  of  Haddington  on  the  north,  Gar- 
vald  on  the  eaft,  Lauder  on  the  fouth,  and  Bolton  on  the 
weft.  It  extends  about  two  miles  in  breadth,  and  three  in 
length,  without  reckoning  that  portion  which  makes  part  of 
Lammer«moor,  and  extends  two  miles  further  to  the  fomh- 
ward.  From  the  foot  of  Lammer-law,  to  the  northern  boon- 
dary  of  the  pari(h,  the  country  has  a  very  gentle  defcent ;  and 
from  eaft  to  weft  it  is  moftly  plain ;  Lammer-moor  is  covered 
with  heath. 

Sail  and  Qimate. — The  foil  U  very  different ;  in  the  fame 
fiirm,  we  have  rich  good  laa4  and  very  poor  ground  inter« 
mixed  togetlier }  but,  by  meani  pf  lime  and  dun^,  the  great* 


^  pot  df  thepftrfOi  has  been  brought  Info  5«ry- good  order. 
Some  of  the  bcft  grbund  Is  near  the  fbat  of  Laixmierumoor 
liHIs  ;  the  nioft  of'  the  arable  land  is  rather  a  (haliow  thaa  a 
de^p  foil.  The  air  is  pure  and  very  healthy^  ami  no  parti- 
cular diftenlpelf  h  prevalent  in  the  pdrffli ;  though  k  has  been 
observed  "that,  of  late  ycars,=  confurnpriofts^have^been  meneire- 
quent  than  ufual  iiif  thii  part  oFthe^countV^.    ' ' 

NiOurdl Ptodiiflhfis.*^TL}\t  bin  gromid  is  about  two  miles 
fqiiate,  and  the  nrnnber  of  acres-  of  ara^le-'Iandis  about  4000, 
of  which  near  2000  acres  are  employed  in  raifiug  coiln  and 
roots,  and  in  fallow.  There  are  fowq  about  200  bolls  of 
whfeati  jfVoc/Bdlli  d^'oats,  loo  boBs'bf  tjarlcy,  r«d  bolls  of 
pcafe,'i26  acres  of  furiiips,  100  acres  of  p6t«oes,  from  ^5  to 
'id  acres  of  flax  ;  but  this  laft  is  not*  much  cultivated  here,  -thie 
'gfouid  not  bemg*'J:it  Ifcfr  it. '  There' are  often  ito  acres  of  fal- 
low, which  is  fowri^iwn  with  wheat  and  baric?.  Much  more 
grain  Is  riifed  than  the  people  cafi  c6hfufaie:  Blluch  Is  fold  Ih 
Haddington  market ;  and  a  confiderable  quantity  goes  yearly 
to  the  Weft  cooriiry,^  More  than  one-half  oFthc  ground  in  the 
parifh  is  in  paAure  and  (own  grafs  j  about  200  acres  are  cover- 
ed with  wood,  fuch  as  elm,  oak,  beech,  and  fir;  among  which 
are  fome  of  the  largeft  and  mod  beadtiful  trees  iti  Scotland. 
One  oak-tree  in  the  wood  of  Yefter  was  valued  feme  years  ago 
"at  L.  25.  A  good  number  of  flieep,  and,'of  late  years,  a  num- 
ber of  calves  are  'bred  in  the  parifif.  'Some  fenanis  rear  in 
one  year  about  20  calves  each.  There  may  be,  of  faddle  and 
work-hor(es,  abdul  200,  black  cattle  about  600,  and  1 40  fcore 
of  fheep.  llie  ufual  time  of  Towing  is  the  beginning  of  March^ 
and  of  reaping  the  beginning  of  September. 

Pricu  of  Provifions.—'Ettt  fells  at  Martinmas  for  3  d.  and 
In  Ipring  at  4  d,  a  pounds  and   mutton  bears  much  the 

fame 


344  SuuyHciU  Aammt 

fime  price ;  Tcal  fells  horn  4  cL  to  ^d«  a  pound,  siccordik^ 
to  the  fealbn  \  lamb  from  1  f.  to  2  s.  6d.  a  quarter  \  pork,  ib 
general,  4  d.  a  pound ;  geeie  3  s.  each  i  ducks  i  a.  ^  rhirhciia 
5  d.  to  6  d.  a  pound  each  \  butter  8  d.  to  9  d«  and  cheefe  5  d. 
to  6  d.  a  pound.  The  price  of  oat-meal  40  years  ago  was  7  d. 
the  peck,  at  prefent  it  bis.  A  greater  quantity  of  beef  and 
mutton  are  now  confnmed  by  the  lower  dais  of  people  thaa 
formerly.  The  fuel  commonly  ufed  is  coal  and  wood  \  the 
former  comes  from  fiat  miles  diftaoce ;  one  cart^  holding  fix 
loads,  cofts  2  9.  at  the  hillt  and  the  cacriage  comes  to  3  s. 
more. 

.  Pricii  ff  Latour^'^Tht  wagtt  of  an  ordinary  man.fervant 
40  years  ago  were  L.  2  :  10  :  o  yearlyi  at  preient  they  are 
from  L.5  to  L.  7.  Womcp  fervants  th^n  received  L.  i  :  10  :o, 
all  articles  included  i  now  tbey  have,  on  an  aVerage,  L.  3  a 
year.  Forty  years  ago,  the  Wages  qf  a  labouring  man,  who 
received  no  vifhials,  were  5  d.  through  the  winter,  and  6  d« 
.in  fummer;  now  they  arc  raifed  io  10  d.  in  winter,  and  1  s. 
in  fummer  i  in  harveft,  the  reapers  get  from  9  d.  to  i  s.  4  d. 
with  their  meat.  A  carpenter  makes  is.  6d.  1  a  mafon  is*  8d. ; 
and  taylors  have  from  6  d.  to  8  ci.  a  ^ay,  with  their  meat. 
The  common  labourer,  when  well  employed,  may  gain  from 
L.  15  to  L.  18  a  year,  w^ch  makes  him  and  his  family  live 
very  comfortably  >  and  a  common  ploughman  may  earn,  in« 
eluding  meal,  cdrn,  and  cow,  &c.  from  L.  13  to  L.  t  j  a  year. 

Rent  of  Land  and  Houfes,  bfc^^'tht  land  rent  of  the  whole 
parifli  amounts  to  about  L.  2000  per  annum.  A  common  cot* 
tage  lets  at  about  13  s.  or  L*  i  /^r  annum ;  if  the  houfe 
confifts  of  two  or  more  apartments,  the  rent  is  2^  i.  for  each 
apartment,  when  occupied  feparately.  There  are  about  150 
inhabited  houfes  in  the  parilh|  each  of  which  contams  5 

fouls 


(Mb  oit  an  ayerage«  The  vjlUge  of  Giffbrd  contains  about 
400  people^  moflly  fmall  fuers ;  the  other  villages  are  but 
trifling.  There  are  about  60  ploughs  in  the  pari(h»  which 
arc  drawn  by  2  horfes  each ;  about  65  carts,  fome  drawn  by. 
1  horfes,  and  fome  by  1  borfe ;  00  waggons ;  i  coach  \  3 
fiour-wheeledf  and  ^  two-Khccix;d  carriages. 

Populattoft^^^^SooMt  1750,  the  returns  from  hence  to  Dr 
Wcbfter  was  1091 :  At  prefent  there  are  about  800,  from^ 
5  years  of  age  to  90 ;  the  number  of  males  and  females 
being  nearly  equal,;  the  latter  rather  preponderating.  The 
births,  on  an  average^  fii:e  about  25,  deaths  about  15,  and 
iQacriages  about  8,  every  year.  The  parifli  was  much  more 
populous  I oi). years  ago  tbaii.it  is  now;  the  caufes  of  tlie  de- 
creafe  muft  be  attributed  to  the  demolition  of  cottages,  and 
the  union  of  &ver;il  fmall  farms  into  one ;  but  the  population 
has  rather  iqcreafed  (ince  the  prefent  Marquis  of  Fweeddale 
came  to  reild&at  Yefter.  Th^e  are  about  c  children  on  aa 
average  in  a  family :  The  children,  in  general,  are  not  &^ 
fiout  as  thejr  were  40  years  ago ;  which  inn{^  be  owing,  in  a 
gr^  sfVf^ifXf^^  to  thediSerent  manner  of  living  \  as  the  com-^ 
men  .geo^  now  drink  a  great  deal  of  tea,  and  not  good> 
fmall  bzcx^  which  thej^did  50  years  ago. 

In  the  p^riih  are  5  Ijcritors,  all  of  whom  refide  cither  con- 
Aamly,  or  occafionally ;  i  clergyman  ;  1  phyfician ;  \,  (ludent 
of  dtf'Viityj«^4&  £u*mers;  a  good  many  carpenters,  mafons^ 
and  ^iccavpr^who  have  all  plenty  of  work  through  the  iea* 
ibn,  and.  line  very  ^o^ortably;  18  male,  and  22  female 
I)ouii;l^odlfl'  ^vants  j  30  female,  and  80  male  labouring  ferr 
Toj^ts^  mnftof  whicb  laft  are  married,  and  have  families* 
ThqreU  not  one  lawyer  or  attorney  in  the  whole  pariih ;  and 
tl^c  pcpplC'inake  it  their  ftudy  to  keep  theiraffairs  as  much 
.  y »*  I.  X  X  out 


34^  Staiijlicai  Account 

out  of  the  hands  of  fuch  men  as  pofiible,  referring  all  Ukat 
differences  to  be  determined  by  the  arbitration  of  ndghboort. 
All  the  mhabitanu  are  of  the  £ftabll(hed  Churchy  except  lo 
Seceders. 

Church  and  Stipend* — ^The  church  and  manic  were  bailt  in 
1708.  The  value  of  the  living,  including  the  glebe*  is  about 
L.  100  a  year,  with  a  good  manfe  and  garden.  The  Marquis 
of  fweeddalc  is  patroQ, 

Poor. — ^The  number  of  poor  rn  this  parifli  arc  firom  28  to 
32,  each  of  whoir  receive  from  20  s,  to  L.  3  yearly.  The 
coltt-fiions  at  the  church  cioors  amount  to  about  L*  18  ;  the 
profits  of  the  mort-clothS|  and  other  cafualties,  from  L«  10  to 
L  12  a  year;  13  acres  of  land  belonging  to  the  parifh  yield 
an  annual  rent  of  L.  1 1 ;  and  a  aiortiiication  of  L.  100  bj  the 
late  Marchionefs  of  Twccddalc  L.  5  ;  fo  that  from  JL  40 
to  L.  45  is  dii^ributed  among  the  poor  yearly.  About 
1750,  there  appears  to  h^vc  been  niuch  the  fame  number  of 
poor  on  the  lift,  who  rcccivrd  about  L.  tipper  annum.  All 
the  p  or  arc  fupportcd  jn  their  own  houies,  as  in  »^*»  cafc 
they  arc  much  happ'^r,  and  do  much  more  work,  thaa  if 
crowded  together  in  work-houfcs.  There  is  a  Difpenfarj  for 
diftribiirtng  medicines,  and  giving  medical  advice  to  the  poor, 
gratis:  which  inftitution  is  of  great  benefit  to  the  country^ 

Mifcellaneous  Oh/ermtkns — ^There  is  in  the  ptrifli  a  finall 
river  called  Gifford  Water,  in  which  are  fomc  very  fine 
trout :  This  ftream  was  remarkable  for  a  flood  on  the  4th  of 
Oftober  1775,  which  carried  down  moftof  the  bridges  in 
»he  pari(h,  and  a  number  of  trees  from  Tefter  5  a  moft  imac- 
pountable  circumftance,  as  no  extraordinary  quantity  of  rain 
|iad  prerioufly  faUcn.    Tl^e  ^pl^  a»e  in  gen^  very  indut 


tAtm^  liaTiflg  {Plenty  of  aU  kinds  of  labour.  Their  fize  Tarict 
from  5  feet  5  inches  to  6  feet  2  inches.  There  are  00  ma- 
nufaftures  in  the  parifh  except  a  bleachfield,  which  employs 
about  15  hands  lid  the  fumnier.  The  fcarcity  in  1782  had  no 
particular  effeft  on  theparifii.  The  heritors  then  bought 
meal  at  the  market  price,  and  fold  it  far  2  d.  or  3  d.  the  peck 
lo^er  to  fuch  as  were  on  the  poor^s  lift,  or  had  fmall  families* 

JSmmnt  ilf ifir.— Thb  parifli  has  given  birth  to  two  emU 
nent  living  charaAers,  Dr  John  Witherfpoon  Prefident  of 
the  College  of  New  Jerfey,  and  Dr  Charles  Nifbet  Preiident 
«f  the  College  of  Carlifle9  in  America. 


KUtlU 


Vj4t  StaiWc^l  Auount 

NUMBER     XSXVIt 

PARISH  OF  BATHGATE. 

By  tie  Rtv.  Mt  Walter  jARmHt. 


SifuatiOfi,  isTc, 

I^KIS  parifh  lies  in  the  couRty  and  PrcSbjterf  of  linlitl^ 
gow,  and  makes  part  of  the,  Synod  of  Lothian  um! 
Tweeddale.  It  is  7  miles  long,  from  eaft  to  weft,  and  2  miles 
broad,  from  north  to  fouth  i  being  bounded  by  the  pariihes 
of  Torphichen,  Linlithgow,  Ecclefmacheni  UphaH,  Liring- 
ftone,  Whitcburn,  and  Shotts.  Towards  the  north-caft,  the 
parifh  i^  high  and  hilly  :  Bathgate  hillS|  which  are  covered 
with  green,  are  a  continuation  of  Cuckold  Roy  and  Cairn 
Naple  in  the  pariih  of  Linlithgow,  and  are  fome  of  the  high- 
eft  grounds  in  this  part  of  the  country.  Towards  the  fomb* 
eaftj  fouthy  and  weft,  this  diftriA  is  flat»  and  almoft  level. 

&//. — About  the  fi>ot  of  Bathgate  hills,  the  foil  is  good, 
and  tolerably  dry ;  on  the  ibuth  and  wefb  fides  of  the  town 
of  Bathgate,  which  ftands  on  a  fteep  fiope,  the  grouiid  is 
bleak  and  wettifli,  but  not  unhealthy;  nor  are  there  any  par- 
ticular difeafes  to  which  the  people  are  liable.  The  foil,  in 
general,  is  pretty  deep ;  and  neither  fo  fertile  as  the  country 
lying  eaftwardj  nor  fo  barren  as  that  lying  to  the  weft  and 
fouth. 


Mimrals'^^k  confiderable  quantity  of  firee-ftone,  of  Varioos 
^^lity,  IS  dug  from  open  quarries  in  the  j^xilh.  A  Iiih^* 
ftonc  rock,  thirty  feet  deep,  the  ptopcrty  of  the  Earl  of  Hopt* 
loun,  Mr  Maijoribanks,  and  Mr  Pkterfon  Shairp,  affords  ei« 
cellent  lime ;  20  hands  are  urually  employed  in  the  quarry^ 
and  burning  lime.  Several  kinds  of  fpar,  and  fhells  of  va- 
rious fortSi  are  fometimes  met  with  in  it.  A  fmall  vein  of 
filver  ore  was  found  in  this  rock  a  few  years  ago,  but  it  was 
too  inconfiderable  to  bear  the  expence  of  working,  A  largi^ 
field  of  iron-ftone,  of  a  fuperior  quality,  was  lately  wrought 
by  the  Carron  Company  in  the  lands  of  Barbachlaw,  in  thb 
pariOi.  There  is  abundance  of  coal  in  feveral  parts  of  this 
diftriA.  In  one  of  Lord  Hopetoun's  collieries  near  Bathgate, 
there  are  feven  different  Teams  of  coal,  from  fcven  inches  to 
feveo  feet  thick ;  the  deepeft  feam,  at  prefenty  is  40  fathom 
deep.  In  this  work  20  coal  miners  are  conftantly  employed ; 
each  of  whom  works  from  1 5  to  25  loads  a  day.  The  load 
IS  12  Unlithgow  pecks,  and  fells  on  the  hill  at  6d.  the  great, 
and  4  d.  the  fmall  coal.  The  whole  number  fupported  by 
this  coUieryi  including  miners,  bearers,  &c.  Is  95  ^  of  whom 
30  are  children  incapable  of  working.  There  is,  befidesi  an 
inexhauftible  quantity  of  mofs  in  the  parifh ;  h  that  many  of 
the  farmers  and  cottagers  burn  peat,  at  lead  in  part.  I'he 
great  iticreafe  of  the  village  of  Bathgate  fince  1750  has  been 
chiefly  owing  to  the  collieries  ;  to  which  caufe,  alfo,  muft  be 
attributed  the  great  influx  of  poor  into  this  town  and  neigh* 
V)urhood« 

Agriculture,  Isfc. — Oats,  barky,  peafe,  beans,  turnips,  po« 
tatoes,  cabbages,  flax,  and  iomctimes  carrots,  are  the  chief 
produce  of  the  pari(h.  Nearly  about  two-thirds  of  the  1200 
or  1300  acres  of  arable  land  in  the  parifli  are  (own  with  oats^ 
the  reft  moftly  with  barley,  peafe,  beans,  and  potatoes;  wheats 

turnips^ 


35«  Sta^fikal  AtMmt 

tnniipt^  tec.  are  only  in  finall  qmnddct.  The  bailey  harvest  ^ 
in  ordinary  years^  begins  about  the  latter  end  of  Angvift,  or 
banning  of  September;  and  the  peafe^  beans,  and  oats,  ioH 
mediately  follow ;  this  produce  being  generally  fix  for  one* 
There  may  be  between  400  and  ^00  acres  of  hay  from  ibwn 
grafs,  as  alfo  confiderable  pieces  of  natural  meadow  10  the 
parilh  i  the  lad  is  generally  cut  about  the  beginning  of  Ao- 
guftj  and  the  former  early  in  July.  Moft  kinds  of  trees  which 
ufually  grow  in  Scotland  are  to  be  found  here ;  fuch  as  the 
a(hj  elm,  beech,  oak,  and  the  different  forts  of  firs.  In  the 
pariih  are  about  320  milch  cows,  700  young  and  old  black 
cattle,  250  horfes  fit  for  labour,  about  60  more  from  i  to  3 
years  old,  and  not  above  200  (beep. 

Rent  of  Land. — ^There  are  68  ploughgates  in  the  parilh. 
Nany  of  the  farms  are  let  at  between  10  s.  and  15  s,  an  acre; 
fome  at  20  s. ;  and  feveral  fmall  indofures  of  10  or  1 2  acres 
are  let,  on  leafes  of  19  years,  at  50  s.  and  55  s.  an  acre.  The 
number  of  farms  have  diniinifhed  of  late,  two  or  three  being 
fometimes  let  to  one  perfon,  or  kept  in  the  proprietor's  own 
hands.  Hence,  in  fome  places,  there  is  not  a  fixth  part  of 
the  inhabitants  there  were  20  years  ago.  A  confiderable  por- 
tion of  the  parilh  is  inclofed }  and  feveral  eftates  have  chan- 
ged their  proprietors  within  the  iaft  20  years.  The  price  of 
land  is  from  20  to  25  years  purchafe  of  the  free  rent. 

Priits  f»f  Provjfions.^Tht  prefent  price  of  beef,  mutton, 
lamb,  and  pork,  is  3I  d.  a  pound,  Dutch  weight  $  the  two 
former  often  rlfe^to  4  d.  per  lb.  and  the  Iaft  is  but  juft  begin* 
ning  to  come  into  general  ufe  in  this  part  of  the  country.  A 
fucking  pig  is  ufually  fold  for  as  many  foillings  as  it  is  weeks 
old.  Hens  and  ducks  coft  from  i  s.  to  t  s.  6d.(  chickens 
tf  d.  to  8  d. ;  and  geefe  2  s.  6  d.  to  3  s«  each;  cheefe  fells  from 

4  s. 


4S.  to  4$.  6d.  aftone^  and  butter  from  8d.  to  iod;a' 
pound:  Thefe  latter  articles,  fuch  as  hens,  &c.  are  nearly- 
double;  and  beef  and  mutton  at  leaft  a  third  dearer  tban  they' 
were  30  or  40  years  ago.  Excepting  mutton  and  lamb,  the 
pariih  is  abundantly  able  to  fupply  itfelf  with  provifions  $  to<)^ 
there  is  ufually  a  confiderable  quantity  of  beef,  barley,  butter^ 
and  cheefe,  fent  out  of  it.     At  Batbgite,  there  is  a  regular 

fleih  market  twice  a  week.  ' 

f 

Prices  of  Labour, — Day  labonrersi  wages  are  1  s.  a  day  ;* 
mafons,  carpenters,  and  bricklayers  from  i s.  6d.  to  is.  8d.| 
taylors,  when  they  work  out  of  their  own  houfes,  8  d.  and> 
vijlnals.     A  maa  who  can  hold  the  plough  well,  and  mow, ' 
&c.  will  receive  L.  8,  or  perhaps  L.  9 ;  and  the  ordinary 
wages  .of  men  fervants  for  threfhtng,  carting,  &c.  is  about 
L.  7  a  year.    They  ufually  hav^  their  viQoals  in  the  hoofe,  * 
or,  inflead  of  thorn,    two  pecks  of  oat-meal,   and  6  d. 
for  kitchen  *  weekly.    The  female  fervants  for  hulbandry 
have  generally  L.  3"for  their  yearly  wages;  and  it  is  the' 
common  practice,  with  very  few  exceptions,  to  hire  (ervants 
by  the  half  year.  •  The  domeftic  and  farm  fervants  in  gentle** 
mens  families  have,  perhaps,  from  L.  i  to  L.  2  a  jrear  more 
than  thole  employed  hf  fivmers.    The  farmers,  in  general, ' 
keep  no  domeftic  fervants,  except,  perhaps,  fometimes  one 
woman  in  harve(^  employing  their  children  in  the  Inifinefs 
of  the  farm,  both  within  and  withoiit  doors* 

Implements  of  Hti/bandry.'^T[it   plough  univerfally  tiled,' 
till  within  the  hft  two  or  three  years,  was  the  old  Scottifli 
l^ought  drawn:  by  4,  6,  and  fometimes  8  cattle;  a  of  which, 
when  there  were  6,  and  often  4,  when  there  were  8,  were 

oxei^ 

f  Soe  this  word  erplftmed  in  a  former  note,  page  218. 


^•r  StMtjftkat  Jkcman 

qxcQ.  SmalTs chain  plough,  drawo  by  z horfesaiid  a  Dxeo« c# 
bjF  2  bodesy  or  bjr  2  oxen  alonci  Is  now  beginning  to  be  ufcd  i 
Ukdi  wjbcre  it  is  ditawa  onl .  by.  2,  there  is  fcldom  any  driver. 
There  ore  no  waggons ;  and  only  2  four-wheeled  chaifcs  in 
4icf»riih*  , 

Fapt/la/m. •^Tht  population  has  advanced  confiderably 
within  thefe  40  years.    The  returns  to  Dr  V\  ebfter,  about 
175O1  were  1594  inhabitants }  at  prerent  they  are  2309,  984 
tp%l4s»  jMid  1325  ft;mal4Qs  •,  snaking  an  mcrcafe,  fince  that  pe- 
riod, of  above  700.     About  1400  people  refidc  in  the  village 
of  Bathgate,  and  900  in  the  country  part  of  the  pav'ifh ;  ia 
the  former  are  327  married  couptes,  and  113  u^oaarried  per« 
Tons  llho  keep  houfei  and  in  the  latter  are  12a  married 
couples.    In  the  20  j^ears  preceding  Janua^  1 790^  it  appears 
there  were  1142  baptijed,  and  771  buried  1  and  for  10  years 
prcccdhig  January  1734,  there  were  4i£baptifed|  nuking 
an  annual  avenge  of  41^  birtlis  iathe  lattci:  cafe,  and,  in  the 
former,  of  57^^  births,  and  ^{84^  deaths.    There  are  about 
21  mfliiriages  every  year,  and  cach.o^rriage  may  produce 
about  5  children.    Qf  the  2309  ^^i^bitapts,  1989  attend  the 
SftaUi&ed  Churih  $  about  320  are  Sece^ei^i  and  3  are  of 
the  £pifcopal  perfu^KHi.     In  tboj  ptar^h  are  27  heritors,  10. 
of  whom  refide;  a  clergj^men,  (thc.eftabli(bed  minifter,  and 
the  pftftor  of  a.9qrgher  congregation)). 4  furgeons  i  3  writers ; 
about  12  years  ago  there  wa«  on^.j  wrii^c^  and  ho  had  lefs 
buGnefs  than  any  one  of  the  three  now  has ;  7  merchants  or 
ibopbeopersi  2  ftudtnts  of  divinity,  lad  i  of  medicine  $  255 
meebaoks,  of  whom  yo  are  appreatioes)  55  &rmers,  in  cnch 
ofi. whoTe  families  .there  are,  at  aii  average  9  or  xo  pcrfons, 
of  who(A  3  are  gfineraUy  hired  fcrvante; 

Ecckf$aftUal  StaU — ^Thc  value  of  the  living  is  worth,  flriw- 

mumtur 


mmiihis  annij^  L.  i  lo  or  L.  112,  ineluding  the  glebe  ^nd  4 
chalders  of  ti£tuaL  Th^  church  was  built  in  1^39 ;  the  manfe 
is  an  old  building,  frequently  wabting.  repairs.  The  Earl  of 
Hopetoun  is  pati'on. 

Podif', — iThfc  number  of  poof  who  receive  alms  from  the 
pariih  is  48,  whith  is  a  much  fmalltfr  numbed  than  ufaah 
The  funds  that  fopport  them  arife  from  the  colledions  at 
the  chufch  doors,  fees  for  proclamation  of  banns^  add  for  the 
mort-doths ;  and  from  a  general  afleflment  of  the  parifli^ 
which,  ever  ^hct  1783,  has  been  nearly,  and  fome  years  con- 
fiderably  aWe,  L.  100  per  annum,  owing  to  the  confequen^ 
ces  of  the  fcatdty  in  178 2^  as  will  be  immediately  mention* 
Cd. 

Amine  m  1782* — tn  the  y^r  1782,  the  fcafcity  of  graia 
Was  fo  gr^t,  that  oat-meal  fold  for  no  lefs  tlhah  JL  2  : 2 : 0 
the  load  { 1 6  flone).  Not  only  the  ordinary  poor,  but  the  fa» 
mili^ft  of  many  labourers  who  were  before  decently  fupported, 
muft  have  periihed  for  wantf  without  ettraordioary  afliftance. 
NotwithflaiMltng  all  chat  wasdone  for  them,  many  of  them 
accumolited  fo  much  debt,  that,  m  1783,  they  were  in  little 
left  dlft^s  than  in  1 7^2*  That  public  calamity  was  flow- 
ed by  feveral  important  confequcQces  to  this  pariih.  Many 
were  then  admitted  upon  the  poor's  lift,  who  before  that  pe- 
riod fupported  themfelves,  but  ever  afterwards  they  have 
tleeded  affiftance.  For  the  immediate  relief  of  the  pOor,  the 
parochial  food,  amounting  to .  about  L.  2oo»  was  fpent  in 
buying  me^i  which  was  given  to  feme,  and  fold  at  a  low 
'price  to  others.  In  con&quence  of  the  increafed  numbmof 
'  neceffitotfs  peribns,  and  the  want  of  the  ii^terel^  of  the  L.  200, 
•a  he^^vy  anmial  afieffinent  was  laid  on  the  pariih;  and,  fince 
'ihii  took;  placei  the  coUejlioos  at  the  church  door  do  not 
VeiJfH^   .   ;  :      ;  .TX.  .,  ;      amount 


3S4  ^Stattflkd  Jkamnt 

•mount  to  a  third  of  their  ferfncr  nfaal  fiiau  For  dctoi 
years  preceding  December  1 7839  the  average  o£  the  difboHe* 
mentt  lor  the  fupport  of  the  poor»  not  indading  the  interefr 
of  the  L.  200  above  mentioned^  wat  L.  51  ftrmmuam  b«r 
lor  fi«  jeart  ftllowiog  that  period,  the  annual  fiim  diflniiM 
amoontedron  an  average,  to  above  L.  yyi. 

Vilhge  rf  BmAgfiU.^hk  the  inllageof  Bathgate  are  about 
469  houfesy  or  roomti  oecupied  by  ieporate  ^uniliet,  whereof 
a^  are  uninhabited.    The  total  rental  of  the  towuj  gardensy 
and  ibme  fmall'  pieeef  of  ground,  amounts  to  L»  61^1 14 :  o 
jyr  amuim^  and  the  ipean  rent  off  a  houfe  or  room  comes  to 
ao  s.  a  year.    Bathgate  was  prt  of  the  eittenlive  poflcffioos 
given  in  131^  by  King  Robert  Bruce,  at  the  dowry  of  his 
daoghtier  La^y  Mat«gery,  to  Walser,  Ifigh  Steward  of  Scot- 
fimdj  who  had  one  of  his  pfincipal  refidenocs  at  thb  piace, 
where  he  died  in  rsaS*:  Some  tMcts  of  his  manfioa  may  yet 
ic  feen  in  the  middle  of  a  nioni6  or  lodi*  about  a  quaiter  of 
m  mUe  diftant  from  the  town ;  and  feveral  cauiewaya  leading 
CO  it  will  remain^   Hewn  iloiica  have  been  finoqoently  dug 
fiom  the  feundnion  of  is,  as  alfo  fome  kitcbea  otenfib  of 
copper  or  brafs  ^  and  feveral  coffins  of  §ag  flooes,  in  liune  of 
iriiich  were  copper  cmas,r  have  huriy  been*  ploughod  t^  in 
the  adjacent  groinds% 

Aft(  a9id&^gmeitfLaiot$rerT.-^Tb€  common  people  here 
Aibaitonoaf  oaeal,  peafe  meai^  bstky,  potatoes,  milk,  chiefly 
%otter  miBbi  greens,  a'littk  butter  and  dieefe,  fonEMtimes  the 
ofUfe  of  beef,  mutton,  kmh,  orveaI,oaafiaaUpteeeof  beef, 
«nd,  on  apirtieu&r  ocoafibn,  »  fegof  lamb  or  veaL  For 
three  quarters  of  the  year,  potatoes  conftttiue  nearly  two^ 
&irds  of  the  %od  of  a  labburing  man'k  fiMnily.  It  it  not  caly 
to  ftate  die  eipencc  of  fudi  a  fiunilf  1  but  it  it  ^b&Mt  to 


%e  aifpatefli^iat  upon  5  s.  a  week,  (for  tmtS  veij  latdy  thef 
liiad  no  higher  wages),  and  what  the  wife  could  earoi  wluch^ 
at  ad  average,  could  not  be  above  2  s.  a  week,  many  of  theol 
liave  brought  up  familiet  decently.  They  have  not  only  pro* 
'vided  food  and  raiment  for  themfelves  and  3, 4,  or  5  chil* 
xlreOf  but  have  paid  for  teaching  their  fons  to  tcad,  writer 
.and  fometimes  arithmetic^  and  .their  daujhton  ^o  read,  and 
^fien  to  few  and  write. 

jUvantaga  md  Difadva$gUigm^-^Thc  parifli,  m  general,  haa 
many,  perhaps  more  advantages  within  itfelf  than  moA  other 
parifhes,  and  the  people  are  in  general  induftrious,  oecono»> 
mical,  happy,  and  contented  with  their  £tuatjon:  But  (HH 
jnuch  might  be  done  ^  better  their  drcumftances,  were  foch 
'branches  df  manufafture  as  the  place  b  calculated  for,  efta* 
bliflied  and  carried  on  by  fcrfons  of  experience,  ability,  and 
fpirir.  The  only  manniaftures  at  prefent  are  a  brick  «and 
tile  work,  and  a  tannery,  all  on  a  fmall  fcalei  befide  a  tallow 
chandler  who  carries  an  a  pretty  cbnfiderable  trade.  About 
ao  hands  ase  employed  tn  ihefe  branches* 

Jheratms  in  thi  Mmtfur^liwig. — ^A  p«at  alteration  bi 
the  manner  of  living  ioM  ta^ken  place  in  this  parifli  within  the 
Jaft  40  years.  About  1750,  there  were  not  above  10  fomi- 
<ies  who  nfed*tca,  and  now,  ^peihaps,  there  is  not  above  *twke 
ibat  number  who  do  not  vSt  it.    Butter  meat  was  thes  I 

not  more  nfed  than  tea;:  ScaKely  any  cattle  or  flieep  weae 
lilkd,  except  at  Martinmas,  when  fome  fomiUes  nfod-to  (alt 
a  whole,  or  others  only  a  part  of  an  ok  or  cow,  to  Icrve  for  j 

vrinter  provifion  *|  but  now  there  is  a  regular  flefli  market 
twice  a  week,  and  almoft  every  iamS^,  who  can  afibrd  it^eata 
Iflefli  conftantly.  A  mudi  greater  quantity  of  whcaten  bread  ia 

/     •  Thisfraake  is  fometimes  gill  ceatiaoed. 


35^  StatiJlUalJccount 

bow  confumed  In  the  pariih  in  st  month,  than  was  in  a  tweke* 
month  forty  years  ago.  The  alteration  in  drefs  fince  1 750  is  alfo 
)xinarkable.  When  the  good  man  and  his  Tons  went  to  kirk, 
market,  wedding,  or  burial,  they  were  dpthed  in  a  home 
fpun  fuit  of  freezed  cloth,  called  keb^  pjadden  hofe,  with  a 
\A\xc  or  brown  bonnet  \  ^d  the  good  wife  aqd  her  daaghtcrs 
were  dreffed  in  gowns  and  petticoats  of  their  own  fpinniog| 
with  a  cloth  cloak  and  hood  of  the  fame,  or  a  tartan  or  red 
plaid.  But  now,  the  former,  when  they  gQ  abroad,  wear 
fuits  of  EngUPi  cloth,  good  hats,  &c.  \  apd  the  latter  the  fincft 
printed  cottons,  and  fomctitnes  fUk  gowns,  Alk  caps,  and  bon- 
nets, of  different  ihapes,  fizesi  and  colours,  white  dockings, 
(cloth  (hoes,  &c. 

i!adu£r.— :The  turnpike  rpad  leading  from  the  iron  works 
At  Cleugh  to  Borrowftounnjcfs  runs  thropgh  the  parifli,  a$ 
alfo  a  branch  from  the  great  road  between  Edinborgh  and 
Glafgow  by  Whitburn«  Confidering  the  gre^it  number  of 
coal  and  lime  carts  daily  Qn  then),  the  roads  are  in  pretty  goo4 
order.  They  were  originally  made,  as  well  as  kept  in  repair, 
moftly  by  the  ftatute  labour,  w)iich  is  fomettmes  commuted, 
but  chiefly  e^£^ed  in  l^ind,  at  the  difcretion  of  the  overfeer. 
Each  ploughgate  of  land  |s  obliged  to  work  at  the  rate,  pr 
pay  ia  s.  per  annum  s  and  the  village  of  Bathgate  pays  a  con* 
^derable  fum  for  repairing  the  roads,  though  the  ftr^ets  of 
(|i^  tpwn  are  in  yery  bad  order* 


^VVSe 


of  otirdriraen "  ^^f 


J I 


N  U  M  B  ER     X2CXVIU,         .  . 
PARISH  OF  STI^ANRAER, 

B}  tbe  Rev.  Mr  ]qh}H  QoTJUTZt^ 


Situation^  and  Defcripthn  tfthi  -Town  and  Loeh. 

STRANRAER^  a  royal  bbrough,  and  the  feat  of  a  prcf- 
bytcry  of  the  fame  ntimc.  'It  is  governed  by  a  provoft, 
two  bailies,  a  dean*of-guild,  and  fifteen  coanfellors,  and  is  the 
chief  town  of  that  diftrift  of  Wigtonflrirc,  called  the  Rhyns, 
coin{)rehending  the  maritime  parilhes  of  Kirkmaiden,  Stony- 
kirk,  Inch,  Glenluce,  Stranraer,  Fort  Patrick,  Lochfwalt, 
Kirkhoim,  and  the  moorland  pari(b  of  Ncwluce.  -The  town 
of  Stranraer  is  ituated  at  the  head  of  Lochryan.  As  to  the 
origin  of  the  name,  little  but  conjecture  can  be  advanced ; 
yet,  as  all  this  country  was  comprehended  in  the  antient 
kingdom  of  Galloway,  and  inhabited  by  a  tribe  of  Celts,  it  is 
probably  of  Gaelic  origin.  Lochryan,  on  which  the  town 
ilands,  is  a  moft  beautiful,  as  well  as  a  fafe  and  commodious 
bay.  It  is  about  lo  Engliih  miles  long  from  north  by  weft 
to  fouth  by  eaft ;  the  entrance  into  it  is  nearly  two  miles 
broad  \  it  is  bounded  on  the  eaft  by  the  pariih  of  Ballan- 
trae^  in  Airfhire  }  and  on  the  weft  by  Millar  Point>  a  head- 
land, or  promontory,  in  the  parifh  of  Kirkhoim.  About 
three  or  four  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  loch,  on  the  eaft 
fidC|  is  the  little  village  ef  Gsiirn^  belonging  to  Mr  Dunlop  of 

Punl9|«. 


35^  SUttf^calJoMml 

Dualop.  OmtigQoiis  to  this  village  is  a  verj  <afe  and  com* 
modioiis  hvff  witk  good  aachoring  gnmadj  and  depth  of  wa* 
ter  fufficient  for  (hips  of  any  harden  ;  and  all  vefleb  entering 
intoj  or  coming  out  of  the  Frith  of  Cljde  flj  to  it  for  flidtcr 
horn  ftoitns.  Ei^g  William's  fleet  anchored  here  in  their 
paffi^e  to  IrcUAd.  Oppo&ie  to  the  vHbge  of  Cain,  in  the 
Kirkhohn  fide,  a  fand  bask^  called  the  Sear^  runs  a  confides 
nUe  way  crofi  the  lech  from  N.  W.  to  S.  B.  To  prevcat 
their  runniqgibul  of  this  bank,  Tcfleiskecp  pretty  near  the 
«aftikore«  Few  accidents  have  ever  happened  on  this  hiak. 
It  emi  cootribntes  confideiaUy  to  the  lafietjr  of  the  foothera 
part  of  the  bay,  breaking  the  foice  of  the  tide  by  the  direc* 
tion  in  wfakh  it  lies.  This  bank  aboonds  with  oyften  of  i 
moft  excellent  flavoor.  They  are  fbnnd  indeed  all  rooad 
the  Ihores,  and  m^ht  be  got  m  great  qoantitaes  woold  people 
drag  for  them.  At  prefent  th^  are  only  gathered  at  low 
irater,  in  fpring  tides,  for  a  fcw  months  In  the  fpring.  Loch* 
ryan  immediately  fpreads  out,  on  both  fides,  into  a  very  beia* 
9fhX  drcnlar  figure,  esteading  about  four  miles  in  breadth* 
Befides  the  Cairn  B9,  there  are  feveral  other  good  anchor* 
log  bays  in  the  loch;  foch  as  Portmore  Bay,  a  litde  withia 
the  loch  00  the- weft  fide ;  the  Wig,  joft  on  the  weft  fide  of 
the  Scar  i  the  Bay  of  Solebum,  at  the  mouth  of  a  little  r!v»* 
let  of  the  lame  name,  about  two  miles  ibuth  of  theScari 
and  the  Bay  of  Dalmennock  on  theeaft  fide,  about  two  miles 
above  the  Cairn.  In  flaort,  the  anchoring  ground  is  good,  sod 
fafe  every  where  throi^h  the  whole  loch.  A  variety  of  fifiii  as 
fljue,  flounders,  fmallcod[,  hiiddocks,  whitings,  fobften  sod 
crabs,  and  fometimes  turbot,  are  caught  wkhin  the  loch.  Be* 
tween  the  mouth  of  the  loch  and  the  Rock  of  AHUa,  and  to 
the  weft  of  Millar  Point,  along  the  ihores  of  Kirkholm,  the 
cods  and  haddocks  are  larger,  ai|d  of  a  moft  excellent  quali- 
fy.   Put  tl^efe  fiihin^  ^und|>  Ijinfj;  at  u  or  15  mSes  frcun 

thf 


cbc  tovsb  dm  only  be  reTorted  to  In  cdm  JettM  fveadftr  f 
lience  the  inhabitants  are  not  i^  weB,  or  lb  r^fgubrlf  ftiptdlid 
with  fiflij  as  mi^t  be  expcAeil  from  thefitnationof  the  town* 
The  herring  Miery  ihaH  be  nentibned  afterwards^    Stian- 
vaer  has  no  artificial  harbo«ir.    Ships  of  300  tons  bnrdea  eaii 
come  ta  what  k  called  the  Road,  aboot  half  a  mile  from  the 
town.    Vcflels  of  60)  eren  of  tet>  tons,  tre<pxntlj  anchor 
clofe  by  the  houfes.    At  high  f^ing  tides  the  water  rifes  ^ 
the  town  10  feet  perpendicular]^,  and  svrtres  atorig  «  psutfy 
decliniDg,  fmooth,  fandy  beach,  toaboiit*  a  rfrnttr  of  a  imiA 
diftance.    The aachoragdis  good  and ftfe  t^trj  where.    A» 
ftrong  N.  or  N*  W.  wind,  accompanied  with  1^  high  tide, 
are  the  only  clrcumftancd  that  can,  in  the  leaft  deginee,  ea^ 
danger  vtEkh  anchoring  tn  the  road^  or  near  thcf  towm  The 
town  is  di^ed,  nearly  In  the  middle,  by  a  Httte  rindel,  oter 
which  there  are  feveral  ftone  bridges.    The  saftle,.  now  nn* 
inhabited,  is  a  whin-ftone  building,  with  free-ftone  corners 
and  windows,  of  confideraUe  height,  and  ftiB>  very  iiibftan>-^ 
tiaL     The  faandfome  town*hottfe  and  priibn,  buift  abonc 
eighteen  years  ago,  with  the  many  new  houfes  built  within 
she  fame  time,,  and  welt  finiihed,  add  grsady  tw  the  beauty  of 
Che  ftreets.    New  houfo,  fioiihed  in  a  flyte  that  would  nor 
diigrace  eren  fbme  of  our  richer  and  more  popokms  tewm» 
are  rifing  every  year,  and  demonftrate  the  inereafing  opulence 
and  taftc  of  the  inhabitants..    The  fixation  of  the  town  is 
cfteemed  very  healthy ;.  and  the  good  health  commonly  ea^ 
joyed  by  the  inhabitants  fully  juftifies  this  opinion.    The  mth 
ter,  though  drawn  fexn  welb,  is  good  f  the  Vir  pm^y  and 
free  from  logs  ^  the  winters  generaH^  mild^  eiMepsMven  the 
wind  blows  from  the  N.  or  N.  If.    The  laborious  part  c^ 
the  inhabitants^  expofed  to  the  fe^rhy  of  many  a  winter's 
ftorm,  to  ram  and  fnow,  while  following  their  occup:(tIons  at 
f^  hmt  femetiines  tod  much  reafon  tV  coinplain  of  rheu^ 

Biatic 


f^S^  SuayUeaLAcmnt 


ptim;  The  progrefii  and  ravages  of  the  foall  pox  have 
b«tn  0iu<h  checbe4  by  moculation,  which  is  frequently  prac-^ 
tiied  both  in  tbt  town  apd  in'tbe  country.  Many  of  the  in- 
habit^nt^  have  reached  the  age  of  eighty,  and  oioety  years  and 
njnirards.  ;,...:. 

.  • ,    '        •         .,.'..♦,'       *  •»  • 

XrfaJioui FyberUs.^hi^tht  jcxt  I7($4  (here  were  only 
|w^  Vffi^lf.  belonging  tp  the  town^  of  30  or  35  Ions  each ; 
bm  nowt  the  to^n^g^  •/ ..fhe  piprt  is  about  laoo  tons,  compo- 
ied  oC  ve^]^  fr^ixi.i^.  or  ao  to  100  tons  each;  there  is  one  of 
upwards  ^  150  tons.?  ;*Tkis  flapping  is  gienendly  employed 
IP  |h|sdiffere|it, branches  of  the  coti^g^^tnHl^  and  in  the 
.Jiffcing  fi(h^/  This  laft  branch  of  trade  wis  pa(hed  with 
greatTncceffi  for  many,  years  by  the  inhabitanu  of  Stranraer ; 
but,,  for  the  laft  fcven  pc  eight  y^v?,  they  have  hecn  greatly 
difcouraged  by  want  of  faccefs*  Lad  leafon^  only  fix  or  feven 
TdSTels  went  to  the  Higldand  fifhcrjrt. and  returned  with  Tcry 
poor  cargoes  $  ^mc  with  onl^.3  or  4  barrels  j  and  none  with 
more  4han  a  quarter  cargo  ;iFor^erly  i<Sor  17  veflels  have 
gone  out  and  rctur^pd  fqll  l^clcn^  .  Bepdes  the  coaftiog  trade 
iiiid.fiQiery,  fome  of  the  .largeft  yeflcls.  have  lately  gone  an- 
nually t0  Norway,  Cottei^burgh,  and  the  Baltic,  cither  on 
frtightg  or  on  account  of  their  owners  here.  Confiderahk 
quantities  of  deals,  ;planl^  large  timber,  and  iron  have  been 
imported.  Thefe-  articles ; are  difpoTed  of.  in  the  country 
and  town  for  buildings  ^  &c*j  a  gr^at  part  of  them  is  en> 
ployed  in  (hip-building.  The  herring  £(hery  in  Lochryan 
was  formerly  vcfy  coi^derahle ;  Bpats-.and  bufles  flocked  thi- 
ther 4di.gteat  numbers  from  jevery  tjuarter^  the  inhabitants  of 
every  d^cnption  fonnd  ^p^yment,  ^qd  wealth  poured  in 
.  upoa.thenu  The  .fiihcry  is  now  much  decreafed.  The  her^ 
;  rings  make  their  appearance  generally  foipe  time  in  Septem- 
bcri  continue  two  or  three  months,  appearing  and  difappear- 

mg 


tf  Stranraer.  361 

''Ixxg  at  intervals.  They  yield  a  fcanty  and  temporary  fbpply 
to  the  inhabitants  of  the  town  and  neighbourhood.  What  is 
caught  anfwers  prefent  demand,  but  could  not  be  offered  to 
lale  in  any  foreign  market. 

Stranraer,  being  the  chief  town  of  the  diftriA,  is  reforted 
to  by  the  inhabitants  of  the  neighbouring  parifhes  for  fuch 
neccflarios  and  comforts  of  lifej  as  their  farms  cannot  fumiih, 
their  fencies  may  demand,  or  their  purfes  afford.  There  are, 
however,  too  many  retailers  of  whiiky,  both  Ucenfed  and  un- 
Iicenfed  The  effe£b  of  it  are  the  iame  here  as  every  where 
cUe,  VIZ.  idlenefs,  and  the  ruin  of  the  health  and  morals  of 
the  lower  fort  of  people.  24)4^^  gallons  of  whiiky»  and  o- 
ther  Britifh  fpirits,  were  imported  into  this  place  in  the  courfe 
of  the  year  1790  \  and  it  has  been  aflerted  as  a  fa£l,  that,  in 
the  courfe  of  the  fame  year,  near  L.  5000  Sterling  was  drawn 
*from  this  town  and  the  neighbouring  parifhes  for  wiuiky  a« 
lone.  The  health  and  morals  of  tue  people,  and  the  popula« 
ttou  of  the  country,  all  of  which  are  hurt  by  the  pernicious 
lubit  of  dram-drinking,  are  of  infinitely  more  importance  to 
a  ftate  than  the  produce  of  the  tax. 

The  fpik-it-of  improvement,  altho'  only  lately  introduced  into 
this  country,  advances  rapidly.  About  60,000  Carlifle  bufhels  of 
lime  (each  buihel  containing  three  Winchcfter  bufhels),  were 
imported  into  this  diftrift  laft  year  from  Lame  and  White- 
haven ;  for  there  is  no  limcftone  in  the  country.  The  quan« 
tity  commonly  laid  on  an  acre  is  55  or  60  Carlifle  bufhels  ; 
the  price  at  the  ihore  13,  14,  or  i ;  pence  a  bu(hel  \  hence 
Weighty  crops  of  barley,  oats,  rye-grais,  and  clover,  are  raifed, 
where,  not  many  years  ago,  weak  grey  oats  could  fcarccly  be 
fccn.     Some  judgment  of  the  ftatc  of  agriculture  in  this  di- 

VOL.X  Za  ftrift 


362                        StatifticM  Auount 

firiA  may  be  formed  from  the  annexed  Table  of  the  £zp(ats 

«f  grain  for  fcven  years  preceding  January 

1791. 

Quartcn. 

Grain  fent  coaftwife  in  the  year  1784 

.     7880 

1785 

•     S«54 

1786 

..   2766 

1787 

•     4382 

1788 

•     85  «$ 

1789 

.     454 1 

1790 

•     7743 

4C98I 
This  makes  an  average  of  $854  quarters,  annually  export- 
ed»  or  carried  coaltwife.  What  is  entered  for  exportation  at 
Purt  Patrick  is  not  hicluded  in  the  above  abltra^.  Potatoes 
are  cultivated  to  a  great  extent  through  the  whole  dilln^ 
Above  100  tons  oi  them  have  been  exported  iince  the  com- 
mencement ot  this  year,  i  hey  form  a  very  great  anv  im- 
portant article  of  food,  efpecially  to  the  poor  fort  of  inhabi- 
tants }  6  d.  or  7  d,  per  buihel  19  an  average  price  for  expec- 
tation. 

Tanning  is  a  confiderable  trade  here.  There  are  tvo  annual 
fairs  in  the  parilh  ;  one  in  the  beginning  of  M^y^  the  other  ia 
the  beginning  of  September^  While  a  friendly  conne^oa 
fubfifted  between  Great  Britain  and  America,  great  quantities 
of  Galloway  plaiding  (a  courfe  fabric,  fitted  for  the  Virginia 
market)  was  fold  at  the  laft  of  thcfe  fairs*  This  was  the 
Itaple  manufa£lure  here  \  and  it  brought  into  the  countiy 
near  JL  3000  annually.  But  the  demand  for  this  article  cea- 
fing  at  the  commencement  of  hollillties,  the  trade  was  aban- 
doned. To  it  has  fucceeded  the  raifing  of  flax  in  greater 
quantities  than  fbrmerlyi  and  working  it  up  into  courfe  Uncns. 

It 


•   9f  Stranraer.  ^  363 

h  is  hroaglit  to  market,  both  green  and  bleached,  and  is 
bought  up  chiefly  by  merchants  from  Glafgow  and  Kilmar- 
nock, The  iobjoined  i  able,  taken  from  the  ftamp-mafler's 
books,  ihews  the  itate  of  this  manufacture  ior  the  lail  three 
years. 

Yards*  Value. 

Linen-cloth  (lamped  in  1788,       28391,    L.  1268  14  10 
Ditto         .    -    .        .    1789,       28662,  1276  14     d 

Ditto        .        .        .    ry^o,      26991,         ii8j     8     3 

No  unfavourable  concluiion  muft  be  drawn  from  the  ftate 
of  lad  year,  as  if  the  manufacture  were  declining.  For  one 
of  the  manufaAurers,  who  is  well  known  to  have  (lamped  a 
confiderable  quantity  of  linen,  being  from  home,  the  amount 
of  bis  produce  is  omitted  in  the  account  for  1 790. 

'  The  farmers  generally  export  their  corn,  which  produces 
very  ferious  coniequences  to  the  inhabitants,  as  they  are  obli- 
ged to  purchafe  meal  at  the  difcretionary  price  of  the  feller. 
To  remedy  this  fore  evil,  about  twenty  years  ago,  a  number 
of  mechanics,  countenanced  by  many  of  the  more  refpcCtable 
and  wealthy  inhabitants,  formed  themfelves  into  an  afTocia- 
tion,  whofe  objed  was  to  purchafe  meal,  to  be  diflributcd 
weekly  to  the  fuWcribcrs  only,  tach  fubfcriber,  at  his  entry, 
originally  paid  five  fliillings,  (now  feven  fhiliings  and  iix* 
pence),  and  thirteen  pence  a  year.  It  is  governed  by  a  dea- 
ron,  9^  be  is  called,  and  twelve  afTeilbrs,  chofen  annually. 
This  inftitution  has  produced  very  good  cftcfts.  The  fubicri- 
bcrs,  and  the  poor  in  general,  are  regularly  fupplieu  at  a  price 
rather  below  the  rate  of  the  country.  Their  ftock  is  now  a- 
bout  L.  140  Sterling. 

/i/r/<— Scarcity  of  fuel  is  one  of  the  greeted  inconveniencies 

which 


3^4  StatiHlcal  Accrtati 

which  Stranraer  laboars  under  J  he  chief  fuel  ts  peat  and  turf, 
brought  from  the  diftance  of  3  or  4  miles ;  pften  of  a  bad 
quality,  and  always  high  priced.  Many  of  the  inhabitants 
bum  coals  in  their  rooms.  Thefe  are  brought  from  Air  or 
Irvine  by  fea«  and  coft  the  purchafer  about  fourteen  pence 
the  herring-barrel,  including  the  price  of  leading  from  the 
fliore.  A  family,  keeping  only  a  regular  fire  in  the  kitchen, 
and  another  in  a  parlour,  muft  expend  fix  or  feten  guineas  1 
year  for  firing  alone.  Would  parliament  take  t>flr  the  du7 
upon  coalit  carried  coaftwife,  the  improvement  of  this  town, 
and  the  neighbouring  country,  would  advance  with  incoo- 
ceivable  rapidity.  The  late  Earl  of  Stair  made  fevcral  unfuc- 
celshil  attempts  to  find  coal  in  the  neighbourhood. 

Church  and  Stipend^ — A  new,  commodious,  and  even  ele- 
gant church,  was  finiflied  in  1785,  at  a  very  confiderable 
expence.  1  he  ftipend  is,  at  an  average,  about  L.  60  Ster- 
ling, payable  in  meal  and  money,  as  modified  in  the  year 
1649,  and  confirmed  by  a  new  decreet  In  the  year  1696. 
One  of  the  preceding  incumbents,  Mr  Walter  Laurie,  left 
'  fome  parks  in  the  neighbourhood,  and  a  houFe  in  the  town, 
to  his  fuccefibrs  for  ever,  to  fupply  the  want  of  a  glebe  and 
manie.  Fhe  parks  arc  about  30  acres }  they  hold  of  Mr 
Vans  Agnew,  and  pay  L.  3  :  1 1  :  i^-*  as  feu  and  teind.  The 
houfe  was  rebuilt  in  1761.  To  Mr  Laurie's  munificence  the 
minifler  of  Stranraer  is  indebted  for  the  tolerably  decent  man- 
ner in  which  he  lives.  The  minifler  has  a  right  alfo  to  the 
vicarage  teind  of  the  herrings  taken  in  Lochryan,  by  the  in- 
habitants of  the  town  and  Clayhole,  at  the  rate  of  the  twen- 
tieth herring:  But  this  depending  on  a  fubjeft  to  preca- 
rious in  itfelf,  and  fo  difficult  to  be  levied,  can  never  be  pro- 
duAive.  The  prelcnt  minifter  may  truly  fay  he  has  not,  on 
an  average,  received  lost  a  year  from  this  fource.     He  ilhis 

admitted 


if  Stranraer.  *  365 

•idmitted  miniftcr  in  17721  and  is  the  third  mlnifler  fiucQ 
the  Revolution. 


At  the  eaftern  extremity  of  the  town's  jiiHrdiftion  is  a  re- 
ceding meeting-houfe,  Monging  to  the  AntiburgherSy  feat* 
tered  over  the  whole  Rhyns.  There  are  443  perfonb  on  the 
examination  roll  of  this  congregation.  .  There  are  tvto  oth^rr 
ie&aries,  Smeatonites  and  M^MilUmites^  but  they  are  not  nu« 
mcrous. 

School. — ^The  magiftrates  built  a  very  convenient  fchooU 
houfe  a  few  years  ago.  The  fckoolmal^er's  ialary  is  L.  1 1. 
The  number  of  Icholars  60  or  70.  With  quarter  wages,  ar.d 
fhe  different  perquifites  commoaly  annexed  to  the  office,  it 
mamj  be  worth  between  L.  40  and  L.  jo  a  year*  Thc*re  arc 
Ibme  private  fchools  alfo }  fome  of  them  pretty  auuierous  ia 
Icholars.  *  ' 

iW.— 'The  town  is  opprefled  with  Irifli  vagrants,  who 
c€Hne  over  in  crowds,  and  lodge  in  the  fuburbs  and  neighi)our- 
ing  cottages ;  and,  be&des  occafionat  depredations  on  proper- 
ty, levy  very  heavy  contributions  from  the  humanuy  of  the  in<» 
habitants.  The  poor  are  fupplied  from  the  weekly  colledtoas ) 
from  the  intereft  of  a  capital  of  L.  20c,  accumulated  :  from 
different  legacies;  and  from  an  annual  benefajlion  of  the  Earl 
efStair« 

P^»Ai/ir/i— The  return  made  to  Dr  Wcbfter  of  the  po^ 
polation  of  this  town,  about  40  years  ago,  was  only  649  fouls  ; 
but  now,  according  to  a  very  accurate  enumeration  of  the  in- 
habitants recently  made,  thtre  were,  at  the  beginning  of  the 
year  1791,  no  lefs  than  1602.  Of  thefc,  1276  were  8  years 
of  age  and  upwards  i  260  below  8 1  and  66  fedUries  of  diffe-* 

rent 


$66  Statifiical  Acctma 

rent  denominations.  In  1780,  there  were  io;o  abote  & 
ye*r«.  Children  b<-Iow  this  age,  and  fe^laries,  were  not  in^ 
eluded  in  the  enumeration  then  taken  *. 

AbftraA  of  Marriages  and  Baptifms  from  ift  Jannary  1780. 


Married  in  1780 

-  i78i> 
.  1782 

178:? 

. 1784 

i7«f 

178^ 

— -  '787 

1788 

1789 

1790 


9 

9 

7 
10 

>i 

12 
II 
12 
10 
21 

9 


Baptifed 


4> 
4* 
4* 
41 
38 
3« 
3« 
43 
48 
4« 
3<5 


The  regifter  of  barials  cannot  be  depexuied  on, 

!!/»/.— The  rent  of  houfes  is  in  proportion  to  their  fitui- 
tion  and  convcniencies.  The  land  contiguous  to  the  tovni 
on  the  eaft  and  fouth,  is  in  the  parifh  of  Inch,  and  belongs 
to  the  'Earl  of  Stair ;  that  on  the  fouth-weft  and  weft  to  Mr 
Vans  Agnew,  and  is  in  the  parifh  of  Lochfwalt.  It  is  dU 
Tided  into  fmall  inclofares  with  turf  fences,  to  accommodate 
the  inhabirantSi  and  is  let  at  various  rates^  from  20  s.  to  a 
guineas  an  acre* 

Prkei 

•  Two  villages,  Claybole  and  Hill-hcad,  belonging  to  the 
parifh  of  Lochfwalt,  are  fo  clofcljr  joined  to  Stranrjer,  being 
feparatcd  from  it  only  by  an  ideal  hne,  that  ihcy  may  bt,  and 
indeed  often  are,  coniidered>  efpcciaUy  by  flraogers»  as  piyjl  o£ 
the  towa.    They  contain  about  500  inhabitants. 


*    ^  Stranra0r4  $6j 

,  Fricii  of  Proinfiorts  and  Labour.-^The^  price  of  oat-xneal  it 
about  1  s.  6d.  or  1  s.  lod,  a  (lone.  The  fcarcity  pccafion- 
cd  by  the  bad  and  late  harveO  of  1782  was  lefs  fcverel;  felt 
in  Stranraer  than  in  moft  places*  The  late  Earl  of  Stajr,  and 
fome  cf  the  more  wealthy  inhabitants,  proctired  meal  early 
in  the  feafon,  at  a  reaionable  pricej  and  fold  it  at  2  s.  a 
(lone ;  70  or  80  poor  families  in  the  town  were  indeed  iup« 
plied  at  i  s.  8  d.  a  ftonc.  The  price  of  good  becf|  laft 
Martinmas,  was  2  J  d.  and  2^  d.  a  pound,  of  16  ounces,  when 
taken  in  whole  carcafes,  or  by  the  quarter ;  mutton  the  fame; 
they  are  now  3  d»  and  3  }  d. ;  veal  4  d.  $  lamb,  when  plenty, 
2^d*and  3  d. ;  falmon,  from  Glenluce  and  Ballantrae,  2d. 
a  pound ;  butter  8  d.  a  pound,  of  24  ounces ;  eggs  2  d.  a 
dozen ;  fowls  8d. ;  geefe,  at  Martinmas,  is.  or  is.  ad.  a  piece; 
a  turkey  as.  6d.  or  3s. ;  rabbits  5d.  a  pair  without  the  ikins ; 
water  fowls  at  reafonable  prices }  fea  fiOi,  fold  by  the  hand, 
is  extremely  cheap.  Little  cheefe  is  made  in  this  country, 
and  is  of  the  pooreft  kind  ;  it  fells  at  4  s.  the  ftone,  of  26 
pounds.  A  labourer's  wages  are  i  s.  a  day  for  nine  months, 
and  9  d.  or  10  d.  the  reft  of  the  year ;  a  mafon's  is.  6  d.  or 
I  s.  8  d  }  a  houfe  carpenter  the  fame ;  a  taylQr  6  d.  with,  or 
1  s.  without  viAuals. 

Roads* — ^The  great  road  from  Carlifle  to  Portpatrick  goes 
through  the  town.  This  road  was  made,  and  is  kept  in  re* 
pair,  by  government.  Government  has  alfo  given  a  fum  of 
money  to  finifh  fome  crofs  roads,  which,  when  finiflieJ,  will 
render  this  county  as  eaiy  of  accefs,  botii  from  England  and 
from  Airfliire,  as  any  county  in  the  ifland.  The  mail  coach 
from  London  paiTcs  through  the  town  every  day ;  a  diligence 
from  Air  to  Portpatrick  pafles  thrice  a  week.  The  other 
roads  in  the  diilriA  are  made,  and  kept  in  repair,  by  the  con* 

verfion 


368  SfaHftical  Aeemaa 

^erfion  of  the  ftatute  labour,  ar  the  rate  of  i^s.  for  every 
L.  I  CO  valued  rent     The  principal  ones  are  in  good  order. 

MifiiUaniotis  Obfervathns  -*^trangers<»  ftmck  with  the  beau- 
ty of  (ius  liiuatioOi  and  the  many  advantages  that  forcibly  oi^ 
tru/c  che«iJeive&  on  their  eye,  are  forprifed  to  hear  that  no 
inarw:t.idture«  arc  citablitticd  here;  but  the  fcarcity  and  high 
^icc  ot  tiiei  mult  be  an  eternal  barrier  to  the  eftaUifhmeat 
of  any  cxttolive  qianufadture  in  the  town  or  netghbonrmg 
cou4i:  V  »  yet  (here  are  very  good  artificers  of  every  kmd^  who 
iuppiy  tnc  UciuAuds  of  the  inhabitants  and  neighbours* 

.  A  great  number  of  the  young  nien  are  bred  up  to  the  fea. 
When  the  Hon.  Keith  Stewart  was  appointed  to  command 
ihe  Berwick  Ufl  war,  70  or  80  volunteers  from  this  town  and 
neighbourhood  entered  wkh  him. 

The  only  natural  curiofity  in  this  parifh  is  St  John's  WeD, 
coniid'jrahly  within  high  water  mark.  It  is  flooded  every  tide 
by  the  Tea ;  and  in  five  minutes  after  the  tide  retires^  it  boSs 
tip  m  a  copious  Ipring  of  excellent  foft  frefh  water. 


NUM. 


Dumber   tssxl. 

PARISH    OF   KETTLE. 
^  the  fy^.  Mr  Pbtee  Barclit* 


Name^  Situathn^  and  Extent » 

KING'S  KETTLE,  formerly  called  Catul,  or  Katol,  h 
fituated  in  the  county  of  Fife ;  in  the  preibytery  of 
Cupar,  and  fynod  of  Fife.  The  origin  of  the  name  is  uncer- 
taiiu  It  is,  however,  proved  l^  authentic  records,  that  the 
lands  of  Kettle  were  once  the  property  of  the  crown,  and 
were  afterwards  fued  in  8  divifions,  in  perpetual  tacks,  at  the 
rents  then  received  \  wluch  are  flail  paid  to  the  King,  under 
the  name  of  Crown  Rents.  Kettle  is  bounded  by  Falkland 
on  the  Weft ;  by  Markinch,  Kennowsy,  and  Scoonie,  on  the 
fouth ;  by  Ceres,  Cult,  and  CoUeffie,  on  the  eaft }  and  by 
Aughtermiiclity  on  the  north.  The  parifh  coOtaina  fibme- 
what  oaore  than  9  fqnare  miles,  it  is  of  a  curved  oblong 
figure,  narroweft  towards  the  weft  1  in  length,  from  eaft  to 
weft,  nearly  8  miles  \  and  in  its  greateft  breadth  a  little  more 
than  %  miles.  The  village  of  Kettle  is  fituated  in  the  flat  of 
the  flnith,Tather  low  and  wet,  on  the  fbuth  £de  of  the  Eden  | 
the  floods  of  which  reach  to  tlic  ikirts  of  the  village*  Btil« 
makohn  is  fituated  about  a  furlong  ibuth*eaft,  at  the  foot  o£ 
the  rifing  ground ;  and  the  food  Iqr  Cupari  b€twpqip«thc  Fortia 
¥oJm  L  3  A  aiMl 


^y0  Sta0ical  Accoum 

and  Tay,  runs  through  it.  Coalton  is  on  tbt  brae  hcadF  abort 
if  I  and  is  clayey, 

&f7,  and  Sufface.^^^Tht  \HargtOi  and  moft  Taloable  part  of 
the  parifli  lies  in  the  courfe  of  that  ftrath  which  extends 
from  Ktnfofs  to  St  AndMws.  Hese  the  fur&ce  is  level ;  bat 
towards  the  fouth,  fouth-ea((,  and  fouth-we({  of  the  village, 
which  is  nearly  in  the  center  of  the  pariflii  it  becomes  bkak 
and  hilly,  including  thcf  higher  groaods  which  run  eaftward 
from  the  Lomonds.  The  hills  are  in  general  covered  ^th 
VerdurCj  and  in  fummer  afford  excellent  pafture  for  all  (brts 
of  cattle ;  yet,  in  fpme  places,  there  are  many  large  nigged 
ftones  projefting  conGderably  above  the  fur&ce.  Woods 
are  only  wanting  in  this  pact  of  the  pariih  fo  rcalife  the  pocu 
defcription : 

Juffit  et  exten<&  campos,  fubfidere  vdtes 
Fronde  tegi  fylvas,  lapidofos  furgere  moatts. 

lie  nature  of  the  foil  is  various.  In  many  places  on  the 
banks  of  the  Eden,  which  nearly  bounds  the  paiilb  toward 
the  north,  there  are  exceUent  carfe  foils ;  yet,  at  a  finall  di- 
Aance  from  them,  extenfive  beds  of  fand,  with  a  mooriih,  or 
mofiy  furfaee,  are  frequently  found.  The  ftratum  of  fimd  is 
in  tfiany  places  covered  with  a  ftrong  ftiff  day,  in  others 
.  Ivith  a  light  friable  mould*  Even  in  the  hilly  part  of  the 
country,  the  foil  is  m  general  excellent,  and  of  a  dark  ct« 
lour* 

CUmaii  and  Di/ia/n.^^Tht  clhnate  is,  ifor  the  fnoft  parti 
dry  and  healthy.  It  is  not  fubjeA  to  any  local  difeafes.  Scnne 
years  ago,  the  ague  was  frequent  in  the  lower  parts  of  the 
parifli  i  but,  for  the  laft  ae  years,  it  has  almoft  entirely  d^ 

..appeared. 


^  Ketite.  571 

,arppeared  i  owiogi  moft  probably,  to  the  many  dnuos  that 
liave  been  made  in  this  and  the  neighbouring  pariihes.  The 
common  people  4iFe  now  peculiarly  liable  to  dropfical  fwell- 
lags  of  the4imbs«  Daring  the  above  mentioned  period  po»i 
tatoes  have  been  introduced,  and  n«w  form  the  principal  part 
of  the  fuftenance  of  the  poorer  houfeholders.  It  may  per« 
iiaps  be  fuTpeAed,  that  this  change  of  diet  has  produced  fome 
alteration  in  the  conftitutions  of  the  inhabitants. 

Rivers,  Springs,  is^c^ — ^There  are  no  confiderable  lakes  or 
rivers  in  the  pariih.    The  Eden,  whofe  ftream  in  fummer  is 
<carcely  fufficient  for  a  corn  mill,  abounds  with  e&cellent  red 
and  white  trout,  pike,  andeek.    There  are  feveral  fprings^ 
fbme  of  which  are  fupp^ed  to  be  impregnated  with  mine- 
'Tals.    The  courfe  of  the  Eden  being  down  a  low  Arath,  ber^ 
dered  on  each  fide  by  hills  for  a  confiderable  diftance  above 
Kettle,  and  the  river  having  very  little  fall,  frequently  ever- 
-flowed  its  banks,  fo  that  the  crops  on  its  carfe  haughs  were 
always  precarious,  a  plan  was  prcjcAed  of  making  a  cut  fo 
deep  as  to  confine  the  water ;  but  it  was  never  executed, 
owing  to  the  diiagreement  of  the  proprietors  of  the  lands 
which  lye  on  the  oppofite  fides  of  the  river.    About  10  years 
ago  Mr  Johnfton  purchaled  the  whole,  and  formed  the  pre- 
je£led  cut  on  an  enlarged  plan.    A  fpacious  canal  was  made 
for  the  water,  j  2  feet  wide  at  the  bottom,  and  30  at  the  tep» 
fecured  on  the  fides  by  raifed  banks  and  hedges,  which  in- 
clude a  rpace  of  70  feet  in  breadth,  and  ferve  to  confine  the 
water  at  high  4oods.    This  cut  has  been  carried  on  a  confi- 
derable way,  but  not  with  equal  efieft,  as  the  dire6tion  of  the 
ftream  was  obliged  to  be  accommodated  to  the  convenience 
of  perfons  with  whofe  property  it  intciferred.  Mr  Johnfton^ 
iince  his  refidence  at  Lathrilk  in  1783,  has  built  an  elegant 
lioufe  on  the  eltate.    He  has  alfo  got  feveral  of  the  farms  in- 


^y%  Siatyikal  Aecqunt 

to  his  own  hand,  and  has  improved  thetn ;  fubdtTided  them 
snoflly  with  ditch  and  hedge,  and  belts  of  planting ;  adorned 
them  with  clumps  of  trees,  and  elegant  £urm  boulcs  of  two 
fiories  and  garrets,  covered  with  Uoe  flate,  and  ligB^d  with 
lead  \  all  which  give  more  vivacity  and  beairty  to  this  part  of 
the  country  than  it  had  before,  and  f^ill,  when  the  ptaaring 
is  grown  up,  enliven  it  much  more. 

Minerals. — In  the  farm  of  Barnrark  there  is  a  quarry  of 
free-ftone.  It  is  covered  by  a  Aratum  of  earth  4  feet  thick^ 
When  this  is  removed,  we  obferve  upon  the  furface  of  the 
rock  numerous  imprefiions  of  vegetable  bodies,  apparemly 
formed  by  branches  of  trees,  of  various  diameters,  curioailj 
ramified  and  interwoven.  The  ftone  is  of  the  fanie  nature 
with  that  below,  but  of  a  darker  cobur,  A  large  piece  of 
petrified  wood,  and  a  petrified  horn,  were  lately  fotmd  here. 
About  a  furlong  to  the  eaftward  of  this  quarry,  on  the  dedi* 
vity  of  the  hill,  ibme  perfons  fearching  for  minerals  difborcr* 
ed  a  large  mafs  of  petrified  Oiells  of  various  kinds,  fome  of 
which  were  completely  filled  with  tranfparent  concretions. 
The  mafs  is  fituatcd  at  the  lower  extremity  of  a  lime-fione 
rock«  The  forms  of  the  fhells  are  moft  diftindl  on  the  fur* 
face.  There  are  not  any  petrifying  fprings  in  the  parifh  ; 
but,  in  fome  places,  ftalaAites  are  formed  by  the  ooziogy  of 
coal  water,  'i'hcre  is  no  marble  or  Hate  here }  but  an  almoft 
inexhauAible  abundande  of  mooir-ftone  and  firee-ftone,  which 
are  of  an  excellent  quality,  and  ipuch  employed  in  dyking  and 
building.  Licpe-ilone  of  tli^  heft  kind  is  alfo  abundant:  One 
quarry  at  Fortbar,  belonging  to  Ht  Fitcairn,  phyfician  in  Lon* 
don,  and  farmed  by  James  BIythe,  $fqi  employs,  on  an  ave* 
rage,  60  perfons  throughout  the  year,  in  the  different  procei^ 
fss  of  digging,  wheeling  away  the  earth,  blowing,  and  break- 
ing tlie  ftones,  and  filling  the  kihis,  A  great  number  of  mea 

and 


9f  Kettles  573^ 

attdhprJb  are  alfo  engaged  in  conveying  tbe  lime  to  New- 
burgh  port,  for  the  Gufe  of  Gowrie,  and  other  ports  of 
Perth(hire,  &c.  The  coals  with  which  it  is  burnt  are  brougjit 
from  Balbimie  and  Balgonie,  about  3  miles  diilant.  A  largcs 
quantity  of  iroa-ftone»  excellent  in  quality,  is  found  on  ieve- 
ral  parts  of  thefe  efiates. 

In  Bamtark  Muir,  the  flir&ce  of  which  Is  a  common,  an4 
covered  with  heath,  coals  have  long  been  procured.  For 
want  of  i>ropcr  contrivances  to  carry  off  the  water,  they  have 
not  as  yet  been  wrou^t  far  below  the  furface.  Thefe  mines^ 
which  are  the  property  of  Alexander  Murray,  Efq^  of  Ayton^ 
have  been  let,  for  the  laft  40  years,  to  Alexander  Low,  Efq; 
who  is  now  feriouily  engaged  in  attempting  to  obviate  thofe 
inconveniencies  which  have  hitherto  impeded  the  working* 
The  coals  are  of  a  fupcrior  quality,  moft  of  them  refembling 
the  oily  Newcaftle  cosd«  There  is  another  ftratum  of  coal^ 
but  iirferior  in  quality,  at  Dovan,  belonging  to  Dr  Pitcaim* 
Coak  have  alfo  been  procured  at  Clothie,  en  eftate  belong- 
ing to  Mr  Balfour.  Some  time  fince,  when  finkmg  a  (haft 
to  diicover  the  extent  of  the  coals,  fome  metallic  ores  were 
difcovcred,  which  have  not  as  yet  been  efiayed,  Whea 
thrown  into  the  fire,  they  emit  a  fulphureous  fmell,  and  in 
appearance  refemble  pyrites.  The  price  of  coals  at  Balgonie 
and  Balbimie  Hill  is  7  d«  per  18  ftone  Dutch  weight. 

Churci.'^^Thc  annual  value  of  the  living,  including  L.3  i6:i 
for  providing  the  communion-elements,  and  L.  2  :  3  :  4  for 
pafhvage,  is  L.  5a  :  3  : 4  in  money,  24  bolls  of  barley, 
and  4t  bolls  of  meal.  The  glebe  is  one  of  the  poorefl  in 
Scotland,  its  yearly  rent  not  exceeding  L.  .a.  The  King  is 
patron.  The  number  of  heritors  is  a8  ;  but  only  the  half  of 
than  are  foperiorsi  the  others  being  feuers.    The  prefent 

miniiler 


^4  Statj/Hcal  Jccnmt 

ininLifter  is  Mr  Peter  Barclay,  who  was  (ettled  in  Mkj  1778. 
Me  is  married,  and  has  four  fbns  and  one  daughter.  Tb& 
ehurch  appears,  by  a  date  on  it,  to  have  been  built  in  t6^6m 
It  has  been  twice  repaired  iince,  and  is  in  good  conditioiu 
The  manfe  is  at  present  in  ftich  bad  order,  that  it  Is  intended 
to  move  for  a  new  one  in  the  fprisg. 

J>c9r. — There  are  at  prefent  about  14  perfons  who  recdvc 
alms  conftantly  or  occafionaiiy,  being  almoft  all  infirm  old 
people.  The  colledion  for  the  poor  has  been,  fer  the  laft  i  z 
years,  L.  16  per  annum  $  and  there  is  I^  300  oat  at  iatereft 
at  4|  per  eenin 

School* — The  UhxnA  and  matter's  hoofe  are  10  good  repair. 
The  mafter  is  rather  too  old  for  much  a£tivify ;  bat  he  has 
an  affiftant  of  confiderable  abilities.  The  falaiy,  with  the 
houfe  and  feffioa-clerkflup,  is  about  L.  22  a  year,  befide  the 
fchool-dues,  which  are,  for  Englifli,  i  s.  3  d. }  writing,  i  u  8d«& 
arithmetic,  ti.%  Latin,  2  s.  6  d. 

Price  rfProvifions  and  ZiaJotfr-— From  the  vicinity  to  Edin- 
burgh, and  many  coaft  towns,  provifions  are  commonly  kept 
at  the  Edinburgh  prices.  The  grain  is  always  lower  than 
the  ioweft  Edinburgh  or  Lothian  grain.  A  day-labourer  is 
paid  10  d.  a  day,  on  an  aieeragpi  a  carpenter  or  maibn 
IS.  6  d. ;  a  taylor  is.;  but  the  common  way  of  char^g  is 
by  the  piece.  Labourers  generally  earn  about  13  guineas  a 
year  ;  and  their  wives,  if  Induftrious,  about  L,  7  or  L.  8  by 
fpinningy  when  not  otberwife  engaged.  The  women  always 
fpia  with  both  hands.  Domedic  men-fervants  wages,  at  aa 
average,  L.  6  \  female  fervants  L.  2  s  15  :  o. 

Poptdatiotu. 


tfKettU.  ^7jf 

^(9^fiAi/i0n.— Number  of  inhabitants  by  Dr  Wob« 

fier's  account  in  1755            •            •           •  i62t 

By  furvcy  in  1778   .....  1-643 

Moles  in  the  parifii  in  Dec.  17901  above  8  yean  old  Cy^ 

under  8  years  old  187 

Females      .     »       .    .       '.  •      abote  8  years  old  753 

under  8  years  old  180 

Total  inhaUtants  in  Dec.  1790           .            •  1759 

Increafe  in  12  years            •              •              •  116^ 

Houfeholders            .            »    .          • ,          •  414 

Separatifts  ^om  th^  eftabllihment  above  8  years  ^87 

Of  the  eftaUiflim^t  above  8  years>           ^          •  805 

Children  under  8  years  old            •            •            .  367 

Males  bom  in  12  years,  from  1778  to  1790        ..  333 

Females            •            •            •            •            »  32ft 

Total  born  from  May  14.  1778  to  May  14.  1790  651 

Males  dead  in«thc  fame  12  years           •         .        •  200 

Females         '  •            .                        •            •  178 

T#l$d<leathsin  12  years            .            .            .  378 

Increafe  of  population  frt>m  births  and  deaths        .  273 
Increafe  in  faft            •            •            %           .116 

Perfons  who  have  left  the  parilh  in  1 2  years        ,  157 

Average  of  males  married  in  1 2  years             «  14J 

Offemales                        .                        •          •  12^ 

Total  average  of  marriages            .        •        •        «  26f 

The  higher  average  of  males  marrying  muft  be  owing  to  a 
greater  number  of  them  getting  wives  fr*om  other  parilhcs 
than  females  hulbands.  More  males  are  twice,  or  even  thrice, 
married  than  females.  Women  are  better  qualified,  at  leaft^ 
according  to  the  manners  of  this  country,  for  living  fingle 
than  men. 

Average 


37^  StiMfilcal  Account 

Average  of  males  born  in  12  years  .           .         26}; 

Females            •            •            •  •            •             274- 

Total  average  of  births            •  •             •            54^ 

Average  of  males  dead  in  la  years  •            •        xdf 

Females            •            •            •  .            .            14^ 

Total  average  of  deaths           .       .  .       .     •            311 

Averageof  a  family  nearly        •  •          •          *        4t 
30  fiimilies  confift  only  of  one  iodii^dual. 

Kettle  village  contains  of  inhabitants  •         •         516 

Balmalcolm            •                        •  •        •          Si 

Goalton            •            •            •  •            •            78 

Country  part  of  the  parifli           •  •        •         10S4 

The  mean  population  may  be  nearly  had  by  mtdtlplying 
the  average  of  births  by  314- i  or  the  average  of  deaths  by 
54  (  or  the  average  of  marriages  by  64^  ;  or  the  avenge  of  a 
family  by  the  number  of  families.  The  mean  or  average  po- 
ptilationi  far  any  time,  is  the  real  population  increaled  ordi* 
tniniflied  by  half  the  decreafe  or  ihcreafe  In  that  time :  Thos, 
the  real  ^pulation  17^91  diminifhed  by  58^  half  the  increafe 
is  1701.  But  this  can  only  be  true  on  the  fvppofition  that 
the  increafe  or  decreafe  is  uniform.  Hie  true  mean  popula- 
tion mufl  be  deduced  from  the  following  Tablei  whidi  fdC* 
fefles  many  more  Importaiit  ufes  than  meitly  dctennhttig  Che 
populatioii. 


t^Kntk. 


S7I 


A  fable*  flieiinag  the  number  dead  in  a«  jean,  triz.  $25^ 
ifid  the  namber  who  have  died  at  each  age. 


A|r, 

4m<L 

A|t»   *>4. 

^n 

dM4. 

Apei 

dMi. 

A«^    M 

0 

SO 

SO     7 

40 

3 

6o. 

10 

8i>     4 

t 

40 

SI       7 

4« 

3 

til 

10 

81      4 

i 

35 

S2        7 

42 

3 

6a 

io 

8a     4 

3 

20 

43     d 

43 

3 

63 

io 

83     4 

4 

«5 

24      6 

44 

r 

64 

16 

84     1 

5 

to 

25      tf 

45 

3 

65 

10 

85     3 

tf.. 

«r 

26-     , 

4<J 

3 

66 

Id 

86   a 

7 

^ 

«7      5 

47 

3 

«7 

to 

ti   ± 

g 

4 

«»    i: 

48 

4' 

68 

l« 

88      a 

9 

a 

29   4 

49 

5-  ■ 

69 

10 

8i)      a 

!• 

9 

jo      4 

5<» 

6 

70 

lb 

90     a 

ft 

3 

3«      4 

5« 

6 

7» 

10 

9t      3 

w 

3 

3a      4 

5« 

6 

7a 

10 

9a      % 

<« 

4 ' 

33    '4 

53 

6 

•  73 

9 

93      * 

*4 

4 

34*    4 

54 

6 

74 

8 

94  .  i 

«5 

• 

5 

3'5      4 

55 

7 

75 

7 

J<5      « 

10 

5 

3«      4 

5« 

t 

16 

6 

'.:— 

«7 

«• 

37      4 

57 

9 

11 

i 

«»l 

x8 

^ 

38      4 

58 

9 

78 

s 

>d 

7' 

39  *  4 

5« 

9 

79 

4 

6a5-^2oai3t.a5  sdttiiom  dcath$  in  the  parilfc;  iThl^ 
!raUej  upon  triad,  is  foond  to  an/Wer  better  for  Skotlm 
than  waf  yet  {Hiblilhed  by  Mr  WUkfe.  ^ 

By  tUi  TaMe»  there  witil  be  feuod  IWtflf  (figethtfr  aj^^pa 
(bvls'i  ib  that,  fiippofinl;  the  sumber  of  detflb  and  births  p* 
5pal»  Vo.  6a5  yearly,  the  population  tvoold  be  a|39a^ 
Hence  i  Upland  i  death  would  give  a  population  of  4o.d  | 

Vot.  liL.     .  I  B  « 


%ji  Siaii/licalAfCoura 

pr^eexpefbtioa  of  life  for  a  chUd  id  Kettle -pariOi  is  4^ 

years.    Thus,  ($25  s  2539;^  ,;::  i  ;40.<^    Kettle  popalitiosy 

by  this  rule,  would  be  3i*5+54*25  (i*  e.  medium  deaths  and 

llicths)^-.  Sr2=:s4a.87,  vhich  X40WI  {-^^s  4cdoced  fir  th« 

tiine  of' the  year  in  which  an  iafiint  may  hchom}f'SKi'ji^ 

file  medium  pD^ulatk>ii  of  1,2  yeais. 

*■*-••'  .         •• 

.  BeCd^  the  gq^ple  ^mploypd  ia  a  manafaAm^j  to  be  meo- 

tijned j^tcrw^^s,  i^vc  any       ^'^ 

Black^ths,  includiDg  3  apj^rentlces            •  «.           7 

S^oeinakers^  mcludm^  2  apbrentites            • .  «           S 

T^yloi|^/mclu|ipg4^prcmKes^^       .^       ^.  1        r» 

Sutchcn        ,   .            .           V         ""  .  /          2 

JSakers                        •'           •            •■            •  •         2 

CarpeiMrs  and  wheel wnghts        ~   ••           •  '  •            3 

Ijnt-dreQers  ,  .       .  *         5            •      *^     •    '  •*          5 

Mlafbns,           ^              •     .         •'            •      '*  •    "         li 

Clockmaker   .,        •            v           •            *  •            ' 

CpUier*,  about^           .         .^  •    . .      •  .       .•  •        " 

Hire^feWants,  exclu^ye  of  apprA^^               ^,*  .         13© 

Qay^abourerSi^  who  ..have  families,  aboii^*       •  •           09 

Crardeners      ^     •  ^  <>•  •      '        •  4 

*^.  C.*-.  i>-^  .«.  ^  ^ 

Students  at  college  •  •  •      '      •  4 

Shop-keepers           \'         ^.     ^  *    .    *^      J^*           .  3 

pemlcmta^s  fiunilics         .^.  .          ^            .            ,  6 

Ocrgyjoi yOablillKcd  and  I  r^^^  .*  .^  ^*  '."  -  j 
BatchelorSfnoV  including  ^QineflTc  fervant^,,  fu&d'^chirditea 

who  have  not  left  their  Tat'her'^s  TiOulc"  *"  ^'  V  •     '*  i# 

to *i*i:'8 a? a^ yai'd Is  ttiide itr Ari-paiiai't ' a^mtRparif  df  it  11 
1flea(^d'i^  but^the  mbff  trfi^i^d  ai-IF'toiM  oitt  of  tte 
iobhi^lVlSatter  or  Aucfa^'d'dstri^/'and  ttieiift^Yet^  to  Gls£(^ 


jjbrvf; 'IScM^  iAiTLondmi.'    There  are  ab6ut  -17a  lotms; 

^wUch  aae  vrdi%ht  or  fiipcAiteiided'by  about  60  mafter* 

^rea^ers  \  the  number  of  apprentices  is  i8»  tBoA  ihf  reft  of  Jtho 

workmen  ^re  journeymen.     During  their  apprenticelhip>  or 

iHy  in  tlkir  matter's  houfes  as  journeymen^  ^y  pay- ^u  i 

week  for  boardy  and  live  wonderfully  well.   'The  axrerage 

grofi  produce  of  a  loom,  including  apprentices  and  old  meii 

who  do  little  work,  is  about  L.  60  a  y^ar,  (a  good  hand  wilt 

fetch  confiderably  above  L.  100) ;  and  the  aversige  grofs  ex«» 

pence  to  the  matter  in  lint,  fpinning,  boiling,  working,  &c,  it 

aboot'L.  46  ;  1.5  :  o,  mott  of  which  is  laid  out  in*  the  parifll 

and  near  neighbourhood.    The  looms  find  employment  for 

women  and  children ;  and  hence,  a  httHj  bcing.advantai 

geo«s,.the  men  jnarry  early  \  and  hence  one  of -.the  principal 

caufes.of  the  increafed  population.    -T^iis  ms^nuf/ifhireciccur 

lates  above  L*  io»oop  annually  \  the  greateft.part  of  which  if 

broiight  into  the  parUh,  as  ^U  th^  worlq  is  perforo^dby  the  int 

habitan|3  \  and  the  greateft  part  of  the  raw-imaterial  is  home 

prodw;,e.'   Of^the  flax^ufed,  aljout  |  i^  Dutch^  and^JEtig^l 

the /eft  is  the  prpduce  of  JCettle.  *     » 

j^ficulture^  Produce^  (5V. — The  farms  in  the  paritti  are  3^ 
and  the  average  of  Servants  on  each  is  5,  viz.  j  men  and  ^ 
women.  Mott  of  the  farms  have  cottages,  whence  they 
<)btain  aflittance  in  hay*time  and  harveft.  Befides  thefc^ 
there  are  many  pendictts  (pr^tJid/a),  partly  :let  off  the  £u*ms^ 
and  partly  let  immediately- >by  the  proprietory  and  a  great 
Dumber  of  fmall  ^fe^^s,  frbta  i  to  5  acres^  The  farms  are  very 
tinequal,  both  in  ficeahd^nt.-  The  rent  of  pattufe  ground^ 
is  from  «4  s.  to'^L.'i  15:  <>',  and  of  arable  land  from  5  s.  t» 
L.  I  :  1 1  i  6''an  '  acre^  About  1^  fourth  part  of  the  arable 
^Qund  is  ^iclofed)  and ^  the  advantages  of  kiclofures  is  now 
1p  upiverfally  acknowledged,  that  all  new  leafes  are  let  on  in- 
^lofing  plans.  The  fences  are  ditch  and  hedge^  or  flone* 
•  '    /      l.-''.  •'•."'-  waBs, 


3ii  SuayikaJkimm 

fndby  u  b  moll  convenkot  or  ftniible.  iVte  popfBPWf  Sf 
^  the  confines  of  thb  and  ^ adjoiaiiig  pviflwi^  tiidan^ 
mom  oilier  the  preceb  of  divifi^n. 


Scotch  aofs?, 


CoBtentt  of  the  ponfli 

Of  which  there  ^re,  in 

Wheat           .           .           «           ,  .           «f 

Bwlef           ,..•'.  360 

Oat«           •           ^            .            .  •              756 

Tlas           •           .           •           •  •              100 

Greeo  crop           *            •            ^  •            ?oo 

Fallow           .           •            .           •  •            40 

FiiUfaire  oot  arable           •           .          .  ^         ifo 

Graft  lor  hay           •           •           •  ^            40a 

Arable  pafture  alter  h>7           •           •  •         a970 

Plamiog           •           •           «          •  t        t6o 

CbmmoQ  jet  undivided        •        •        «  •          65^ 

Bhck  cattle  in  tjiie  pari(h           •           •  •        1050 

HoHcs       .9           •           •           •  2^ 

Sheep  of  the  common  kind           •  •               500 

Ploughs           .           .           •           .  .           f6 

Carts            .            ,            .            •  .              i%% 
Valued  rent  in  Scots  money         •         L-  6965  :  13  :  4.     * 

The  pariih  prodnces  both  more  corn  aod  cattle  than  is  fii& 
fictent  for  its  own  aMiiitenance*  and  of  courle  brings  the  fur* 
j»las  to  market),  Wheat  is  fownt  from  the  middle  of  Sq^ 
tember  to  the  cad  o{  November ;  peafe  and  beans  in  the  bo* 
ginning  of  Marc^i  i  oats  (tm  4ie  aaiddle  of  March  lo  tba 
tadof  AprUi  andbarleybtheasootlh  of  V>^  Thelw* 
^ft  gmeraUy  hUls  dwtt^SeptemlicrW  O 

^bA£r.-^tatute-Iahoiir  fpr  die  roads  is  pardr  ended  in 
•  To  ceoTcrt  Scolel^  acm  iBte  Ei^ft  MflltUf  bf  i.»7e)t7}. 


kiiMy  t^dpoyflycdiuiutt^  A  tiini|Ac  hill  ^  tte  cqMqf' 
uraf  obtained  bft  feS^f  and  the  gcakfeumi  of  the  copeift 
are  ufiog  eyefjr  exertioii  for'  SifttiBg  k  |i|  gsfciitiam.  -i 

^Mfaiiiff  {^.r-On  l^^ndcn  Hill,  which  Ofprloekt  GndU- 
ton  firoxn  the  caftifardt  and  cprnmaadt  an  esftenfiire  vieir  of 
the  Strath  of  £daQf  fipm  Kinrofi  to  St  Andrc^wt  Bay,  are 
fiMnc  remains  of  a  cifcum¥a|lat]on  and  rampart,  of  iHiick* 
tradition  is  filcnt.  It  is  of  a  circular  form,  and  nearly  aoer 
yards  iif  diaoietfr.  Abo^it  ba(lf  a  milp  to  the  eaftwanl 
is  another  eminence,  wjtl^  ruins  of  the  fame  kind  en  alo 
liunmit.  It  is  called  Down  Hill;  is  the  higheft  in  thepa« 
pQn  and  commands  the  whole  Strath  of  Leren,  the  Fidht: 
find  she  Lothians*  From  the  fituatipn  of  thelf  buildings,  thef 
fttf  pro^bly  uftd  an  places  of  obfer^ a^iop.  The  Knock  of 
Chithe  is  a  b^utiibl  hiU,  rifing  fmoothly  without  any  appeafiiv 
aiicc  of  fortifications.  A  regular  coffin,  of  fix  ftones,  wai 
(bund  here  (pim  time  ago,  b^  men  who  were  digging  Ch^ 
gra?el.  Witkw  '^  were  hvman  bones,  and  ieveral  trinkets^ 
MMg  which.  im  th/s  brafs  1^  qf  a  fpcar,  now  in  the  pof^ 
fcffion  of  the  Earl  of  Leven.  There  are  at  leaft  8  barsowe 
in  the  parilb,  3  of  wbkh  Ifave  fiames ;  Pandler's  Know,  aii4 
%/mk^  Know,  in  Forthar  gi»ond  \  and  Liquorich  Stone  k9 
itcttk  ground.  Bones  haf  0  been  Amnd  in  the  reft,  Tbem 
is  a  traditkm  shorn  the  fipft,  that,  when  diflenfions  aaoft  bev 
fween  funSies  in  diffisren^  parts  of  the  country,  they  met 
^lere  to  deddq  their  iponteniion  by  armsi  and  thofe  who  Ml 
were  bovfiBd  in  the  toinnlos*  The  barrair  in  Forthar  b  fidd) 
to  liave  becnnregnlar  place  of  burial,  and'to  hsive  hadn 
dundi  or  ch«pel  near  il.    9n|  of  dvs  no  veftiges  are  nonr 

T^  Iwdi  flf  QiMb  fhifll  CQfffiknte  tl)e  eaft  cad  of  A« 


3IH.  Suaifiual  Aama 

]»iMi  of  Kettk,  and  dMNigb  wbidi  by  the  old : 
Atpar  to  Kinghoriit  Monged  to  a  bailj  of  3rtQfts»  wb*  trt 
celebrated  in  traditionfor  Ak moft  cnael robheries and  imr* 
ders.    The  grounds  about  Clatto  Den  are  ftill  defert.    In  the 
&oedfthebrae«  whidi  foriAs  one  fide  of  the  den,  is  a  cave^ 
lliat  is  faid  to  eommumcate  with  the  old*  caftle  or  tower  of 
QattOy  a  furlong  diftant)  the  remains  of  which  are  ftill  vi* 
£ble.    The  fame  cave  is  faid  to  have  had  another  opemng  ts 
iheroadt  at  which  the  aflattant  mfhed.ooton  theheedkft 
yaKengers,  and  dragged  them  into  the  cavetn^  whence  there 
was  no  setum.     All  appearance  of  a^ave  is  now  oUitcrsttd» 
hf  the  breaking  down  of  the  banks.' :  A  fimihr  cavern  was 
fiwrnd,  not  many  years  ago,  at.  Craighall  in  Ceres  parifii.    Of 
thefeSeatons  many  ftories,  replete  with  the  iuperftitions  of 
preceding  ages,  are  ftitt  current  among  the  country  people. 
One  may  fuffice.    Qne  of  the  Scottifli  Rings,  faid  to  be 
}ames  IV.  pafling  that  way  alone,  as  was  commow  in  tho& 
days,  was  attacked  by  a  fon  of  Seoton'^.    The  King  faawng  t 
hanger  concealed  under  his  garment,  drew  it,  and  with  a 
Uowcut  off  <he^]ght  hand  that  feized  his  horfe's  bridlk 
This  hand  he  took  up,  anA  rode  off,    Keat  day,  attended 
^  a  proper  retinue,  he  vifited  the  Caftle  o£  Clatto,  ^ifliing 
m  fee  Seaton  and  his  fons,  who  were  noted  ^  hardy  enter* 
ytifing  men,  fitted  to  Aine  in  a  more  piAlic*ftaiioik  .  The 
old  man-  conduAed  hh  family  into  the  King's  pretence. .  One 
<bn  atoqe  was  ahfent:  It  was  latf,  that  he  hsd  been  hurt  by 
iti'acddeBt,  and  wa^ confixed  in  bed;  -"The  KibglnOfted  oa 
Ibsing  hiad,  and  defiredtoioel  his  pulft;  ^tlA  young  maa 
hdd^/hts  left  hand;    The  King  would.fcel  the-cithe^  alft. 
After  many  ineffefhialisxcufesi^e  was^oMi^ecltO'cOflfe^Uiat 
he  had  loft  his  right  hand.    The  King  told  him  that  he  ind 
a  hand  in  his  pocket,  which  was  at  his  fervice  if  it  would  6t 
him.    Upon  this  they,  were  all  Seised  U&<kmaHd.*  •  • 


.      0f  Katie.    ^  5g5 

Aij/cetlaniiysOhf^rvptlans* — ^The.pepple  ;ure  in.  gencTaltchi^ 
ir^ht^  aod  well  difpofed.  Both  living  ai^  drds  have  uii- 
<lfrgooc  a  remarkaUe  change  wUhiix  there  ao  jears^  owing 
xo  the  ijofiux'  of  wealthy  afid  rife  of  wages*  .Few»  >Gwe?ef ^ 
ijAve,  proved  infolvent.  Fropert]r^  has,  in  cQn&qiieoce*  i|H 
</fa(ed  in  value^^d  is  now  rated  at  39  years  puscbafe.  A 
martial  ipirit.  ieeoks  to  pervade  the  lower  ranksi  who  can 
iearcely  be  prevented  from  entering  into  the  army  or  navy  00 
the  report  of  a  war*  Their  condition  might  perhaps  be  me- 
liorated by  improving  the  lands  ftiU  fiirther,  and  encouraging 
the  loom;  but,  oi^  the  whole,  few  diftrifb  in  the  country 
J^vf  i9ore  reafon  to  be  fati^d  with  their  prefent  ftate^ 

Kettle  pofiefles  very  material  advantages  in  its  coal  and 
Kroe  works.  Marl  is  eafily  procured.  The  lands  are  impro« 
ved  and  drained  with  facility,  from  their  floping  direAioa^ 
and  plenty  of  water.  It  affords  employment  and  fubfifteoce 
for  the  whde  of  its  inhabitants.  The  language  commonly 
fjpokcn  is  Englifb,  with  a  provmcial  accents  The  names  of 
places  are  £iid  to  be  derived  from  the  Gaelic^ 

No  eflential  hurt  was  felt  from  the  fcvere  years  1787  nor 
1783  in  this  parifh.  Some  individuab,  perhaps,  might  be  a 
little  diftrefled ;  but,  in  general,  the  farmers  made  money  in 
thofe  years.  The  crops  being  early,  and  tolerably  reaped, 
yielded  much  meal,  and  fupplied  feveral  places  with  good 
feed.  Whatever  degree  of  improvement  this  pariih  has  yet 
attained,  has  almoft  all  been  given  it  (excepting  the  eftate  of 
"Wefter  Lathrifk)  within  thefe  la  years.  Much,  however, 
yet  remains  to  be  done,  both  in  acquiring  fyftem  and  execu* 
tioo. 

There  are  7  or  8  public  hottfes  In  the  parlfh,  but  they 

produce 


^^^4  Utattjittia  Jaouni 

fmdticetoliaddleCb:  Moft  of  them  sre  pbces  ci^  iccom^ 
modatiooy  and  could  not  be  wanted.  The  inhabtonrs  of  thb 
paiifli  are  Deiiher  chargeable  with  die  vict  of  dhntfamncfs 
'tiot  of  wafting  tbcir  tune  or  nonej*  Several  new  boiueft 
liave  latel7  beoi  biuk.  Few  cottages  hate  been  hdikf  tod 
is  few  allowed  to  become  robous.  There  b  nb  jail  hi  the 
ptrifh.    Feudal  fertices  are  whoHf  obfiterated. 


VlJtU^ 


,     tfDMng,  J38S 

klJMBEk    XL. 

Parish  of  delting. 

Sy  thi  Rtb^  Mr  ^ohU  MotiiSON, 


JVjm?»  Sihiotum^  Extent* 
%^ELTINO,  or,  perhaps,  with  more  propriety,  Deltaing  ♦, 
JLjr  is  of  Dani(h  or  NorWegian  origm.  The  parifh  is  in 
the  county  of  Orkney  and  Shetland,  and  preibytery  of  Shet- 
land, which  hai  (ynodicai  powers  within  itielf,  the  General 
Afiembly  being  the  immediate  coult  of  appeal.  It  is  bounded 
bn  the  weft  by  the  parilh  of  Northmaving,  from  which  it  19 
divided  by  a  long  narrow  voe,  caUed  Sulom  Voe )  on  the  eaft 
by  Nefting  tod  Lunnafting ;  on  the  north  by  Yell  Soundj 
trhidh  feparates  it  froni  Tell ;  aiid  on  the  fouth  by  the  pa* 
riflies  of  Wiefdale  and  Sandfting.  It  A  difficult  to  ftate  with 
any  degree  of  precifion  the  length  or  breadth  of  this  pariHiA 
as  it  is  much  interfiled  by  narrow  voes,  and  no  part  of  it  \$ 
sjdxnre  two  miles  from  fome  fea»  The  appearance  of  the  coun« 
try  is  hilly,  Ueak,  and  barren.  The  hills  afford  plenty  of  exV 
cellent  peati,  which  \&  an  article  of  no  fmall  importance  in 
fuch  a  high  latitude,  and  under  fuch  inclement  ikies.  That 
part  of  the  parifh  which  is  under  cultivation,  and  which  bear* 

but 

*  Taing  IS  a  neck  of  land  jetting  out  into  the  fea,  and  Deil  a 
Vallcyw 

Vol.  U  3  C 


^Z6  StafiJiUal  Jccomt 

but  a  tery  rimll  proportion  to  the  wafte  ancTanciiItivated  porti 
prodocesi  in  good  fesrfoii^ly  vttj  tolerabk  crops  of  terlcy,  and 
a  kind  of  bleak  oats,  ^d  abundance  of  potatoes^'  Cabfag^ 
thrive  in  evcrj  kail  yard ;  but  turnip,  carrot,  parfoip^  &c.  arc 
only  to  be  found  in  genHemens  gardens. 

Climate  and  Dl/ea/es.'^The  air  is  moifl-,  but  not'  anhealilij. 
^e  old  people  faj  that  difeafcs  are  non^  more  common' than 
formerly,  which  may  be  afcribed  to  the  change  in  the  mode 
of  Hviag,  efpedaHy  to  the  general  ufb  of  tea,  of  whidi  tlie 
confumption  is  amaziog,  even  in  the  pooreft  families,  who 
will  ftint  themfelves'  in  iliahy  eflential  neccilaries  of  Bfe,  m 
order  to  procure  this  ar'tideof  luxury.    The  mdft  commoo 
diAempers  are  the  feurvy,  which  is  not  to  tie  wondered  at,  s 
the  people  live  mncjbroli  fifli  Mid'flelh,  and  ufe  veiy  Uttk  ve* 
getaUe  fbod.    The  dampoefr  of  the  climate  may  likewift 
contribute  to  bring  this  terrible  difi^er  to  the  height  is 
which  it  often  appease:     Rhciiaiatic  and  nenrbus  fomplainu 
are  (aid  to  be  moref  common  now  than'  they  were  iomc  years' 
ago.    Many  difeafes'  are  hitroduced  by  the  fliips  of  difiercot 
nations,  which  occafibnally  touch  at'theie  iiltods.    Convul; 
fion  fits»  of  a  very  extraordinary  kmd;  feems^  peculiar  to  thii 
country.  The  patent  is  firflL  fcised  with  fomething  like  hinu 
ingi.  and  immediately  after  utters  vHId  cries  and  Ifartcks,  the 
found  of  which,  at  whatever  diftknce,  immediately  purs  ali 
who  ait  iubjejft  to  the  difbrder  in  the  iame  fitoation.  It  moil 
commody  aitadcs  thc'm  when  thb  church  is  crowded;  and* 
often  interrupts' the  fervic'e  in  this,  and  many  other  churches 
in  the  country.    On  a  <acramenfal  occafion,  50  or  60  ar^ 
fbmetimes  carried  oot  of  the  church,  and  laid  in  the  church* 
yard,  where  they  ftruggle  and  roar  with  all  their  ftrcngth  for 
five  or  ten  minutes,  and  then  riie  up  without  recolleAiojg  a 
£Dgle  circumftance  that  Iiad  happened  themi  or  being  in  the 

kafi 


leaft  ituct  or  fatigued  with  the  violeat  esertions  thfy  had 
^ade  during  the  fit.  One  pbfervation  occurs  on  this  difor- 
4ler^  that  during  the  late  fcarce  years  it  W2S  very  uncommon  ; 
«nd  during  the  twp  laft  years  of  fleAtjr  it  has  appeared  more 
frequently, 

Isoieit  CooftSi  I/Iaffdij^Rfienfs.-^Therc  V€  in. the  p^u'ifh  fonrc 
/tnali  lakes  or  lochsj  and  fome  fmall  riyulets,  but  no  ftreao^ 
that  deier^ci3  the  name  of  a  river.  In  tbefe  lakes  and  rivi  • 
lets,  the  only  fi(h  is  a  fnaall  jkind  of  trout  *,  li^ut,  about  the  be- 
jginning  of  Auguft,  fea  trouts^  of  a  very  large  Hzc^  are  caught 
in  nets  made  for  the  pprpofe  in  the  mouth  of  the  difiercoc 
^i^ni^ets*  1^  filh  of  thjs  )cind  are  ever  folds  but  given  in  pre- 
^nts  through  the  neighbourhood.  The  inhabitants  fit  out 
beats  for  the  lin^,  cod,  and  tu&:  fiibing,on  the  cpafts  of  the 
aieighbouriag  parifh  of  Northmaving.  The  feafon  of  this 
fifliery  i^  during  the  mpnths  of  June  and  ^uly,  and  a  part  of 
Auguft^  _Hofr^&r  the  people,  In  general,  are  benefited  b/ 
ihis  fiihingi  will  ^jppear  from  the  following  ftatement. 

The  E}(peiQ^e  pf  a  Shetland  Fiihing  Boat. 

Scots  money  % 
A  1>oat  1 8  feet  keel,  con^letely  rjgged^  &<;•  with 

a  fail  containing  2j3  yards  of  canvas  L.  104    9    o 

Z20  ground  lines,  at  26  s.  eacht  fitted         •  1^6    .0    o 

8  ground  lines  for  buoy  st)pe.s,  at  20  s«  •  800 

4  buoys,  at  20  s.  each  •        .        •        .  400 

4  haddock  lines,  fitted  with  hooks,  &c«        •  24    o    o 


Total^eipen^e  for  boat  and  lines.        L.  25^6    9    o 

Th« 

*  Scots  money  it  divided  like  Sterling,  but  is  only  the  twelfih 
^zxt  of  lu 


388  Siatifilcal  Accwnt 

The  boat  maj  laft  ^  years,  and  the  lines  four  \  lience  it  ap«  i 
pears, 

*  •  Scots  nsfyoef. 

That  the  annual  exppace  on  boat  and  Unes  wiU 

be L.    65     8    • 

Add  wages  of  fix  men,  fuppofe  L.  ^o  ea^h  120     00 

15  liipunds  of  meal,  48  s.  at  an  average        •  36     o    0 

12  pints  of  fpirits,  at  24  s.  each  .  •  14     8    0 


Total  expence  during  the  feafon        L.  235  16    • 

Tlie  fifhermen  carry  many  articles  of  provifion  firom  thdr 
own  houfes  to  the  fiibiug  ilations,  fuch  as  butter,  milk,  &c. 
on  which  no  value  is  here  put.  Neither  is  any  thing  fiated 
for  iriiuruiice,  which  in  this  trade  ought  to  be  very  h^h,  as 

the  rifk  is  great. 

The  fifhery  1$  carried  on  in  thefe  open  boats,  at  the  d!- 
fiance  of  i:  or  15  Icai^ucs  from  (hore;  and  when  bad  wea- 
ther overtakes  them  during  the  night,  which  is  often  the 
cafe,  the  poor  men  are  obliged  to  deffcrt  their  lines,  and  make 
for  the  fliore,  which^  alas!  in  many  infUncet  thcynerer 
reach.  Ihe  prefent  minifter  remembers  two  boats  being  loft 
in  one  night,  by  which  accident  10  "ffi^tm^  and  53  &therld^ 
children  were  left. 

Axmual  Expence^  apd  Annual  Retnrqs* 

The  fifii  is  delivered  to  the  proprietors,  as  caught,  at  421. 
per  quintal.  At  the  principal  fiihing  ffaitions,  each  boat  may 
catch,  at  an  average,  800  ling^  which  may  weigh  100  quin^ 
talsj  a  little  more  or  lefs* 

Total 


Scots  money, 
^otal  expence  on  a  year's  fi(hing         •  L.  235  16    ^ 

too  quintals  ling,  at  42  s.  is  L.  2io  o  Q 
Z  quintats  cod  and  tuik,  at  30  s.  1200 
30  cans  oil  from  the  livers,  at  i  os.     15     o    o 

Total  returns  on  an  average  •     237     o    % 


Balance  in  favours  of  the  fharers  in  a  boat  L«     2  i5    • 

It  may  be  {iroper  to  add,  thatv  on  the  eaft  fide  of  the  coon* 
trj,  each  boat  does  not  carry  above  45  or  50  grouiid  lines^ 
The  fiihery  on  that  fide  is  carried  on  at  much  lefs  expence  § 
but  is,  in  general,  proportionally  fmaller  than  on  the  weft  fide.- 
This  year  the  fifhery  has  been  very  unfuccefsful ;  fo  that  the 
boats  w^ll  not  have  400  ling,  inftead  of  the  800,  which  19 
Ibted  as  an  average.  The  confequence  muft  be,  that  the  poor 
£ihermen,  difappointed  in  this  only  fource  of  gain,  muft  this 
jcar  fall  greatly  in  arrears'to  their  landbrds. 

Theft  fifli  are  cured  for  exportation  to  Spain,  Hamburgh, 
anil  Ireland.  They  fell,  when  dried,  from  i6s.  to  i  is.  a  cwt. 
This  year,  in  general,  no  higher  price  than  lis.  has  been 
given,  befides  the  3  s.  allowed  by  government  for  every  cwt. 
exported.  The  greateft  part  of  thie  cod  and  tuik  is  fent  to 
Leith,  and  fold  at  between  i6s«  and  19  s.  a  cwt.  The  pro* 
prietors  of  the  lands,  or  receivers  of  the  fifli,  make,  on  an 
average,  a  profit  of  L.  10  Sterling  from  every  fiihing  boat 
belonging  to  their  eftates.  £very  tenant  is  obliged  to  fit  out 
a  certain  fhare  of  a  boat,  in  proportion  to  the  o^tent  and  va* 
}ue  of  the  land  he  poflefies. 

The  Toes,  by  which  the  pariih  is  interfeAed,  fbmilhy  In 
|noft  years^  |)leaty  of  fmall  fi(h,  from  the  livecs  of  which  a 

confiderabic 


AQofidenUe  quantity  of  oil  is  made.  Tliis  fifliing  is  die  \ 
beneficial  to  the  poor  tenants,  as  jt  is  attended  with  no  ex^ 
pence,  and  bnx^  wffi  only  wholdbine  foodio  their  funilies, 
but  oil,  which  gcngijly  fells  at  jpu  or  35  %.  and  i^aytioKt 
at  508.abanreU 

The  common  Tea  weed,  here  .called  Ufigt  is  pretty  gencral- 
Ifr,  and  fuccefsfuUy,  ufed  as  \,  manure  ix^  the  laivis.  It  if 
but  very  lately  that  the  attei^ion  of  the  gentlfcmeo  o^  this 
country  has  iQ  any  mcafure  been  tume^  (o  the  making  of 
kelp.  This  aitick  has,  however,  been  ^ncrcafing  lor  foma 
years  pfft  \  Ui  that  |t  is  now  believed  there  may  be  i^m  209 
to  300  tons  ammaUy  /exported  irom  the  whok  country. 

Thc^e  are  iey^  creeks  apd  .harbours  m  ihe  parifli^  whkh 
would  be  of  high  importance  in  many  faru  of  the  kingdom^ 
but  are  here  jq£  very  little  confof  ueoce.    There  Is  an  inlet  of 
|che  Tea  from  St  Magnus  B^y,  through  a  p)ace  called  th^  Minp, 
a  found  which  divides  the  Ifland  of  Veheooientry,  inSandfiing 
parifli,  from  Mickle  Rhoe  in  this  par!&.    This  iidet  or  voe 
f urmibes  fcveral  CKcelient  harbours }  fuch  as  Bufta  Voe,  South 
Voeter,  and  Alnafirth.  In  all  of  thefe  there  is  fa^  anchorage 
^or  ve&ls  of  a  conilderable  burdeo  \  as  alf^  at  Elwick  and 
l^avinignnd,  both  at  the  head  ^f  Sulom  Voe,  which  divides 
jthis  parifh  from  Northmaviog.    If  a  canal  was  cut  from  the 
bead  of  >Sttlom  Voe  to  Bufta  Voe,  whi^  cqold  be  done  at  9 
very  moderate  expcnce,  it  would  open  an  eafy  communicatiqii 
between  all  the  moft  conGderable  filhing  ftatlons  in  the  coun- 
try, and  afford  a  fafe  pavigation  to  ihips  of  any  fiace  through 
the  middle  of  the  country.    If  ever  fuch  a  canal  fiiould  be 
cut,  the  banks  of  it  would  be  a  moft  convenient  fituation 
for  a  manu&during  village,  whi^  is  not  more  wanted  in  any 
part  of  his  Jbdajefty's  domiaiofis  than  here ;  Fi)r>  (luni^  one 

half 


39< 

%iltot  tlie  year  at  leafl,  a  great  part  of  thirpedjple  are  idK;' 
£id  during  the  other  half|  what  little  work  they  perform  cah 
make  no  adequate  return  fbr  their  fabottf.  May,  after  alt 
their  toil,  they  often  do  not  receive  the  original'  value  o(  tHe 
raw  ni^erials  emplo/ed  in  thieir  homely  manufn£lure  of  fitfgte' 
iVockings  i  Which,  howeveri  is  the  only  way  by  which'  many 
of  the  inhabitants  can  earn  a  fingle  peftoy.  It  would  bt  preT. 
fcrable  ibr  them  to'feU'the  wool,  rather  thUn  take  up  theii* 
fime  in  manufa£luring  h'  in  fo  unprofitable  a'ma&neT. 

The'iC&nds  on  the  coaft  of  this  parifhi  a^d  nifhich  fornn  a 
J^art  of  it^  are,  Mickle  RhoCi  24- miles  ih  circumference,  con- 
taining 14  families,  who' live  oh  a  few  fpots^  which  have  been 
brought  under  cultivation  within  thefe  40  or  50  years :  'f hefe^ 
Tye  along  the  fea  coaft :  'f  he  other  psitts  of  the  ifland  are  co« 
vered  with  a' kind  of  heath,  ndiich  affords  no  Bad  pafturago 
for  (heep,  hbrned  cattle,  and  horfes ;  of  all  which  a  great 
tiumber  might  be  reared  with'  a  fmall  dSfgree  of  attention. 
This  ifland  ties  on  the  fouth  coaft  of  the  parifh.  On  the 
liorth  end  are  tbe  iflands  6f  Little  Rhoe,  containing  7  fami* 
lies ;  Brother  iBe,  2  families  i  f  ifhholm,  1  family.  Thefe  3 
Hfands  are  in  Yell  Souhd,  on  the  northern  extremity  of  the 
parifii.  None  of  them  would  be  inhabited  but  for  the  fake 
of  the  fiiheries,  as  the  little  corn  they  produce  is  generally 
blafted  by  the  fea.  Bigga  is  another  ifland  in  Yell  Sounds 
containing  4- families;  half  of  it  belongs  to'Delting,  and  half 
to  Yeli. 

jigricutiur/,  CaitU^  feV — TBfere  are  liot  above  fix  plotighs 
ih  the  parifli,  and  thefe  of  a  very  finguhr  conftruAion.  They 
are  oiade  of  a  fmail  crooked  piece  of  wood,  at'  the  end  of 
which  is  fixed  a  flender  pliable  piece  of  oak,  that  is  faftened 
to  the  yokes  hid  acrois  diti  nedfs  of  the  oxen.    The  man 


jl^^i  Sta^fikdAcami 

^pho  holds  tbe  plongb  walks  bj  its  fiies  sad  dtreOs  it  vids  i 
liik  or  handle  fixed  on  the  top  of  it.  l^e  driver^  if  he  can 
be  fb  called,  goes  before  the  oxeo,  and  poUs  them  on  bj  a 
rope  tied  nnind  their  horns ;  and  fome  people  vith  fpadcs 
follow  the  piooghj  to  level  the  fbrrow  and  break  the  clods. 
The  only  crops  are  Uack  oats,  fown  in  April,  and  barley^ 
.  Ibwn  In  Maf  •  Both  are  reaped  in  the  end  of  Auguft,  or  du- 
ring the  month  of  September*  The  want  of  inclofurcs  has 
prevented  any  attempts  to  fow  artificial  gniflcs ;  but  the  inea- 
dows  fumilh  a  confiderable  quantity  of  natural  hay.  The 
pariih  can  never  fupply  itfelf  with  meal.  A  confiderable 
iiumber  of  black  cattle  and  (heep  is  annually  fold  to  the  Ler- 
wick merchants,  who  kill  them,  and  fend  them  packed  to 
Ldth  market ;  meal,  flour,  bifcuits,harley,  and  other  articles, 
bdng  bought  in  return*  The  hilb,  in  general,  are  covered 
with  heath,  and  afford  good  pafturage  iot  fheep,  which  go 
wild  without  any  herdfman  to  attend  them.  They  are  in 
general,  however,  fo  far  tame,  that  they  can  be  driven  into 
punds  or  fmall  ihciofures,  where  the  wool  is  pulled  off^  the 
young  lambs  marked,  and  fuch  ram  lambs  cut  as  are  not  in- 
tended  for  tiips  to  the  dock. 

lame  has  never  been  ufed  as  a  manure,  except  in  a  very 
few  inftances,  where  it  never  £uled  to  produce  great  returns; 
in  fome  thirty,  in  fome  iixty,  and  in  (bme  in  hundred  fold. 
But  improvements  tiy  lime,  or  any  other  means,  is  feldom  at* 
tempted  here,  for  this  obvious  rcafon,  that  the  tenants  have 
no  leafes :  They  confider  themfelves  as  the  tenants  of  a  day, 
and  have  neither  inclination  nor  fpirit  to  attempt  any  efiec- 
iuil  improvement  of  the  grounds  they  poflels  \  thinking,  aixl 
with  juftnefs,  that  another  may  reap  the  benefit  of  all  the 
endeavours  they  might  ufe  to  meliorate  their  farms; 

The 


$fDehmg.  393 

Thepariih  abounds  in  horfo,  horn«d  cattle^  andlheep: 
The  pathires  might  so  doubt  bear  a  much  greater  number 
of  each  than  they  bow  contain.  There  is  no  faying,  with 
minute  exafhiefi,  <what  may  be  the  number  of  each.  If 
the  flieep  are  ftated  at  8ooo»  it  will  not  be  materially  und^ 
or  above  the  truth.  There  may  be  about  700  milch  cows^ 
bciides  oxen  and  young  cattle.  What  the  number  of  horfes 
may  be  it  is  impoffible  to  fay ;  but  there  b  certainly  a  great 
number :  Hiey  are  very  fms^ ;  and,  owing  to  the  little  at- 
tention paid  to  the  fekdion  of  proper  ftalliont^  they  are  be* 
coming  fmaller  every  year. 

The  winter  of  1 7.84  was  very  fevore,  and  cut  off  a  great  num- 
ber of  iheep  and  horned  cattle  in  every  part  of  thefe  i(lands« 
An  account  was  taken^  at  the  defire  of  the  minifteri  in  this  pa- 
ri(h|  .and  the  return  was  4506  iheep  *,  and  427  black  cattle, 
dead  in  the  courfe  of  the  winter,  befides  horfes,  of  wMch  no 
accurate  account  could  be  obtained.  This,  joined  to  a  year 
of  as  great  ftarcity  as  the  country  had  ever  experienced,  was 
very  hard  on  the  poor  tenants  ;  and  they  have  not  yet  reco- 
vered  the  lofi.  In  that  winter,  the  ilieep  were  often  dug  out 
c(  the  fnow,  after  continuing  under  it  for  20  days  \  during 
all  which  time  they  had  no  food,  but  eat  the  wool  from  the 
backs  of  each  other.  Some  that  died  after  they  were  taken 
out  were  opened,  and  a  hard  ball  of  wool  was  found  in  their 
ftomach.  The  general  poverty  of  the  inhabitants ;  their  being 
obliged  to  be  from  home  during  the  fiftiing  feafon ;  the  fmulU 
nefs  of  their  farms,  and  the  precarious  tenure  by  which  they 
hold  them  \  all  conffpire  to  keep  them  in  a  ftate  of  indigence. 

Every 

•  This  was  the  number  of  dead  flicep  that  were  found ;  many 
periihed  wbofe  carcafcs  were  never  found* 

VPL.  I.  3D 


394  Stali/Kcai  Acf$unt 

Every  num,  flroin  the  age  of  i8  to  769  nuift  attend  the  fifliiiig 
from  the  ift  June  to  the  14th  Auguft.  Nooe  are  le&  at  home 
but  a  wife;,  with  perhaps  a  number  of  yowig  children,  who 
rc(]uire  all  her  attention.  Everything  in  the  ifarmixtg  Ikie 
nmft  confequentlf  go  to  wreck. 

The  hcrned  cattle  and  fliecp  are  fmall,  but  the  beef  and 
mutton  fweet  and  well  flavoured.  The  iheep,  in  general^  carry 
very  Toft  fleeces.    A  few  are  to  be  found  wluch  carry  wool  of 
a  very  fine  quality,  of  which  dockings  are  made,  that  fcU  at 
difl!erent  prices,  from  15  s.  to  40  s.  a  pair.    Some  are  kmt  b 
flne  as  to  be  eafily  drawn  through  a  common  ring,  and  do  not 
weigh  above  2  ounces,    in  the  year  lySa,  the  beft  ox  cooM 
have  been  bought  for  L.  20  Scots )  the  befl  cow  from  L.  la 
to  15  Scots.     This  year,   1790,  and  for  a  few  years  paft, 
jL«  36  Scots  is  thought  a  moderate  price  for  a  good  ox ;  and 
h.  24  Scots  is  often  paid  for  a  fat  cow.    The  price  of 
iheep  feems  to  have  varied  very  little  in  the  memory  of  max^ 
In  the  neighbourhood  of  Lerwick,  5  s.  are  paid  for  a  wedder ; 
but  in  this  pariftii  and  many  other  parts  of  the  country,  3$. 
is  thought  a  high  price.     The  carcafe  of  an  ox  weighs 
from  3  to  4  cwt. ;  that  of  a  cow  from  170  to  2301b.  A  well 
grazed  cow  yields  from  32  to  42  lb,  tallow  ;  a  well  graaed 
ox  from  48  to  70  lb.  foaietimes  90  lb.  tallow. 

Pcpulaihn.^ln  1 752,  the  number  of  fouls  in  the  parifli  were 
^56.  In  1785,  there  were  1417,  In  1790,  there  were  1504. 
There  are  now  alive  only  5  houfeholders  who  were  living  25 
years  ago.  One  woman  is  now  alive  aged  loi  years;  another 
died  lately  at  the  age  of  105  ;  and  another  died  in  1784  at 
the  age  of  98.  JShe  died  in  the  fame  houfe  in  which  flic 
was  bom,  and  had  flept  only  two  nighu  out  of  it.  The 
pDoiber  of  families  is  now  223,    Each  hoofeholder  has  a 

fmaU 


fmlU  i^rm,  whtclx  in  :gdod  ieafoos,  and  whim  die  finaH  fifh*> 
ing  of  fillocks  and  puUocks  do^  not  fail,  may  fupply  his  6^ 
milj  for  three  quarters  of  the  year.  Including  farm  fervants^ 
there  were,  in  1782,  364  of  all  kinds  intheporifli*  The 
iiumber  b  much  the  fame  at  pirefetiti 

The  population  of  t^e  fm(k  %%  mateHaUf  different  firon 
IV hat  it  was  foaie  years  ago.  The  aheratlofi  proceeds  from 
this  obvious  caofe.  The  inhabitants  have  not  been  lodg  com* 
pcUed  by  their  landlords  t6  ptK>ftcute  tbe  ling  fiihery ;  but^ 
iincethc.  proprietors  thought  propter  to  employ  thfcir  teiiants 
In  that  iinei  it  has  becoitie  an  obieA  to  have  as  many  mete 
as  poffible  oil  their  grounds*  Thil  circtimftance  haa  induced 
them  to  fplit  the  farms,  and  make  them  fo  fmall,  that  there 
»tc  now,  in  many  mflanctsi  fioUr  families  on  a  farai  which 
was  poflefledy  ao  or  30  years  ag0|  by  one^ 

There  are  very  few  batchclors.  The  peoplci  in  general^ 
tnarry.  young*  A  young  lad,  when  he  comes  to  the  age  of  18 
or  19  years,  goes  to  the  fummet*  fifhery  for  a  fee  of  L.  16 
to  L.  %6  Scots.  Sometimes  the  fees  are  as  high  as  L^  28 
Scots  for  10  fuQitnief  weeks.  Wlieii  they  have  bedn  one  fea- 
fon  at  the  fifhisg,  th^  generally  confider  themielvey  ai 
men.  They  are  qncour^gcd  to  i^arriage  by  tfceir  li^drds^ 
in  ordet  to  prevent-  them  from  leaving  the  country ;  ^an^  the 
confequeoces  contq^only  are,  th^r  they  fiod  thgnfelvea  ktvoU 
ved  in  debt  and  l^qge  fa^nilies  in  %  very  few  yejirs.  There  is 
a  (et  of  i»ry  old  yegulatipns,  caUp^  C»uf^rjf  Afis  i  i^  one  of 
^hich  it  is  eoaAqd^  that  no  pak  fhall  marry  unle(s  they  be 
poffeiTed  of  L.  40  Scots  .of  free  gear^  This  regulation,  as 
well  as  all  the  rel^,^is  now  not  enforced }  .though  all  of  them 
arppear  tahaye  beeti  well-calculattd  for  the  good  polite' of  tho 
ccyuntry««  It  is  faid  that  thefe  regMUitions*  wer^approv^and 

confirmed 


39« 


Ststi/iuat  Aaount 


«onfirined  bf  the  parliament  of  Scotland,  ta-  the  raga  of 
Queen  Mary,  or  of  James  VL 

There  h^  been  no  emigration  from  the  pariih  daring  the 
lime  of  the  preTent  incumbent :  But,  almoft  every  year,  a 
great  number  of  young  lads  engage  with  the  Greenland  ihips» 
which  touch  at  Briflay  Sound  on  their  outward  pafiage  in  the 
month  of  March  and  Aprilr  They  receive  from  30  s.  to  409. 
a  month.  Many  of  theft  men  are  landed  on  the  ifland  when 
the  (hips  return  from  Grmiland ;  but  many  go  at  laft  into 
the  navy.  It  is  a  fa£t  well  aicertained,  that  in  the  year  1763, 
there  were  900  Shetland  mei^  paid  off.  What  number  rc« 
mamed  in  the  fleet  after  the  peace  it  is  impoffible  to  fay. 

The  number  ef  inhabited  houfes  is  2^3*  In  each  hmk^ 
on  an  average,  there  may  be  from  6  to  7  people.  There  arc 
at  prefent  no  uninhabited  houfes. 

AbftraA  from  the  Rtgiffer  of  Baptifms  and  Marriages. 


Baptifms.                 Marriages. 

Boys.               Girk. 

Fain. 

*»  1752 

14 

8 

1153       ' 

'3 

12 

If 

1754 

22 

it 

13 

r755 

I? 

»7 

r75<S        .      .. 

r8 

12 

1757        . 

i& 

8 

»7S8        .        . 

18. 

«      •  »4 

n 

1759 

»3 

x6 

1760 

22               « 

,        17. 

2761 

to 

•  10 

>7^* 

«9                   ! 

!            32                  ! 

»3 
lo 

4f  Ucttti^« 

►' 

M 

Baptil 

msk       Marriages: 

Boys. 

Girls. 

FSun. 

1763 

»    14 

V   »9 

»9 

1764 

14 

.'   18 

10 

1 76s    . 

.  .   »j 

•   as 

la 

1766 

«3 

13 

S 

1767    .   . 

»2 

»4 

V    S 

1768 

ao 

20 

r     I» 

1769 

27 

24 

M 

»77o   .   . 

14 

13 

IX 

1771 

25 

30 

la 

1772    .   . 

28 

»9 

5 

»777   .   . 

12 

»3 

»3 

1778   .   . 

16 

16 

«4 

1779 

21 

18 

4 

1780 

23 

24 

9 

1781 

9 

13 

$ 

1782 

19 

23 

9 

1783   .   , 

14 

14 

»3 

1784 

14 

>7 

9 

1785 

»7 

7 

»S 

1786 

18 

21 

10 

1787   •.   . 

22 

»7 

7 

1788 

6 

7 

II 

1789   .   . 

to 

29 

>3 

Divifion  and  Senta/ cf  LawL'-^Tbc  arable  ground  in  the 
parilh  has  never  been  meafured,  fo  as  to  afcertain  the  nunw 
ber  of  acres.  An  acre  is  a  mode  of  meafurement  little  known 
in  this  country.  The  old  and  (landing  mode  b  by  merks  of 
land)  which  are  of  very  different  fizes  in  different  parts^  ac- 
cording  to  their  goodnefi.  The  lands  have  been,  time  im* 
memorial^  divided  into  la  penny,  9  penny,  and  6  penny 

laud^ 


$9%  Statijltical  Accwit 

had*  In  a  few  inftanceii  fbme  of  the  12  pexinj  land  h^ 
been  meafuredi  and  was  fouad  to  be  ^  of  an  acre  to  each 
merk,  aad  6  penoj  land  \  acre  to  each  nsefk.  The  rents  of 
the  different  quality  of  land  is  thus  ftated :  »2  pennj  land 
pqrs  yearly  16  merks  of  butteri  and  L.  i  :4  :o  Scots ;  $  pen- 
ay  land  {Kiys  yearly  1 2  merks  of  batter,  and  L.  t  Scots  per 
tti.  (  6  penny  land  pays  yearly  8  aerks  of  butter  and  I2d« 
per  m. ;  each  merk  butter  being  commonly  converted  at  24  d. 
It  IS  to  be  obferved,  that  what  is  paid  forthefe  lands  ha^  not 
been  raifed,  perhaps,  fince  thefe  iflands  were  annexed  to  the 
erown  of  Scotbind.  Of  bte,  however,  the  price  of  the  bat* 
ter-rent,  when  not  paid  in  kind,  has  been  raifed  from  5  to  7, 
t,  and  9  s«  a  lifpund.  Till  a  few  years  -ago,  it  was  confi- 
dered  as  a  {landing  regulation,  that  the  batter  part  of  the 
hmd-rentfhould  be  converted  at  5  s.  a  lifpand ;  a  lifpond  con- 
tains 24  merks,  equal  to  32  lb.  EngUfh  ;  bat  the  faAor  for 
the  fuperior  thought  proper  to  charge  the  current  price  for 
the  fcu-duty  butter ;  and  many  of  the  proprietors  of  the 
country  followed  tliis  example  :  So  that  a  merk  of  butter, 
which  weighs  i^lib.  Englifh,  is.fometimes  3  d.  4d.  and  4|d. 
inftead  of  being  fixed  at  the  old  converfion  of  2  J  d.  a  merk, 
#hich  was  the  former  regulation.  This  the  tenants  confider 
as  a  hardfhip,  as  few  of  them  can  pay  their  Butter  rents  in 
kind« 

What  is  called  the  rentalled  land  of  the  pariOi  ainounfa 
tb  854  merks  of  land,  about  600  acres.  Befides  this, 
there' are  many  outfets,  or  new  improvements,  which  are 
made  by  the  proprietors,  in  order  to  find  a  fettlemeot 
for  the  young  men  who  marry,  and  whom  they  cannot  ac- 
commodate with  fettlements  on  rentalled  or  improved 
lands.  It  appears  rather  doubtful  how  far  thefe  oatiets  or 
new  inclofures  have  been  for  the  real  good  of  the  iflaod. 

Thefe 


Thefe  attempts  to  knproYC  have  generally  been  undertaken  1^ 
young  beginners  in  the  world,  who  had  neither  ftrength  of 
bands  to.improye  the  groundti  nor  flocks  of  cattle  to  fumifli 
manitre. 

The  whole  rent  of  the  parifli  is  547  lifpund  22  merks  iq 
better,  and  L*  1152  :  11  :  4  Scots  in  mon^s  or,  convert- 
i^the  butter  at  L.  3  a  lifpund,  L«  2796  :  6  :  4  Scots  in  all^ 
or  L.  233  :  o  :  (Sf  Sterling. 

To  the  above  maj  be  added,  40  d.  from  each  family  fo^ 
lervices,  when  not  paid  in  kind,  and  a  hen  and  cock  from  0- 
very  2  Aerks  of  land  in  the  pariifa.  Befides  the  above  landa 
rent  payable  to  the  proprietors,  the  tenants  pay  feveral  other 
duties,  fach  as  com*tei<id,  which  varies  from  4  mcrks  of  butter 
and  ^  can  of  oil  for  each  mcrk  of  land,  to  2  merks  butter  and 
'  can  of  oiU  They  likewife  pay  the  cefs  \  and  certain  payments 
are  claimed  by  Sir  T.  Dundas,  called  Scatt,  Wattle,  and  Ox^ 
penny.  Thefe  payments  vary.  In  fome  places  they  are  oDly 
4  d.  or  5  d.  a  merk  of  land  *,  in  other  places  they  are  as  high 
as  12  d.  and  13  d  ;  payable  in  butter  and  oil  in  moft  inftan* 
ces.  Thefe  payments  are  generally  confidered  of  Daniih  o« 
rigin,  as  taxes  paid  to  the  crown  of  Denmark,  and  continued 
fince  the  annexation  of  the  country  to  the  crown  of  Scot* 
land.  When  the  lands  are  let  in  leafe,  or,  as  it  is  here  call- 
ed,  tack,  the  tackfman  commonly  pays  rent,  and  half-rent  % 
and  in  many  inftances,  double  the  ufual  rents,  for  the  pro* 
£ts  of  fifhing. 

The  parifli  is  fo  extenfive,  that  it  is  impoffible  to  (zf 
what  projportion  of  the  land  is  wade.    No  proper  diviGon  of 
the  wafte  lands  or  con^mons  has  yet  taken  place,  nor  per« 
liaps  ever  will.    For  this  reafon^  the  flieep  and  cattle  of  dif- 
ferent 


9 


S^odi  Stati/lkaJ  J€cmoa 

fierent  proprietors  muft  occafionally  incroach  on  'eadi  «* 
Cher's  property ;  no  herds  attend  to  prevent  thele  mcroadu 
mentSi  and  tliej  muft  bear  with  one  another.  The  marches 
of  the  paftures  of  the  different  towns  or  hrms  are  ^erj  ux^ 
perfe£U^  afcertained. 

Chunb.'^Tbft  living  is  now  let  for  L.  56  Sterling,  aufai» 
five  of  an  aagmentation  of  L.  11  13:4  lately  obtained.  The 
prefent  incumbent  is  Mr  John  Morifoo,  who  was  feuled  In 
April  1782.  Sir  Thomas  Dundas  is  patron.  The  manfe 
was  repaired  after  the  admiffion  of  the  prelent  incumbent. 
There  are  two  churches  a  the  principal  one  about  7  and  the 
other  3  miles  from  the  manfe  ;  both  in  octremely  bad  order. 
There  are  a6  heritors,  all  refident  except  one ;  but  the  great* 
eft  part  of  them  have  only  very  fmall  pcoperties. 

Prices  of  Provifions  and  Labour. — ^Beef  commonly  fells  at 
t  J  d.  a  pound  ;  flaugbtered  veal  is  feldom  fold  ;  a  living  calf 
is  fold  for  IS.  6  d.  or  i  s.  8  d.  the  ikin  of  which  vall  fell  a- 
gain  for  j{  d.  or  i  s.  3  d.  Mutton  is  never  fold  by  the 
weight ;  an  ordinary  fheep  may  fell  for  3  s.  or  5  s.;  a  lamb 
for  I  s.  2  d.  to  I  s.  6  d.  s  pigs  newly  farried  6  d.  or  8  d. ;  a 
good  goofe  may  weigh  ip  lib^  and  is  fold  for  8  d.;  chic- 
kens 2d.  a  piece ;  a  hen  4  d. ;  a  cock  2 d. ;  Butter  has  been 
formerly  dated.  Cheefe  is  never  made.  The  price  of  barley 
and  oats  varies  according  to  thicir  plenty  or  fibardty.  Whea 
is  not  known  in  the  parifh. 

In  this  country,  every  labourer,  and  workman  of  all  kiud^ 
mull  be  maintained  in  the  family  where  they  work.  A  com* 
SDon  day-labourer's  wages  is  6  d. ;  mafons,  10  d.  to  1  s.  2  d. 
The  only  fiiel  is  peat.  This  article  is  not  to  be  bought.  E- 
ycry  houfchpldcr  cmpjoys  fucb  a  nuipbcr  of  his  friends  ^n^ 

neighbours 


tfDeUin^.  40.1 

neighbours  as  he  thinks  necefiary,  to  dig  tKe  proper  (jnanti- 
ty.  Theie  are  entertaizied  with  meat  in  abuodancp,  (pirits, 
and  tobacco.  Ihe  expencCion  thefe  occafionsi  may  be  about 
I  s«  8  d.  for  every  man  employed.  Women*fervaots,  for  the 
care  of  the  children,  and  other  work  within  doorst  have  L.  1 
Sterlingt  a  (hirt  at  3  s.  and  a  pair  of  fhocs  at  2  or  3  s.  for 
their  yearly  wages.  Farm  women  fervants  L  6  Scots  each, 
and  a  pair  of  (hoes.  A  man-fervant,  for  three  quarters  of 
the  year,  has  L.  9  Scots,  and  a  pair  of  {hoes.  No  maofervant 
can  be  got  during  the  fifliing  feaion,  as  they  have  better  wa« 
ges  at  the  fiOilng. 

JtntlqtdtUs  «-^There  are  three  PiAiih  caflles  iri  this  parifli^ 
one  at  fiurravock,  one  at  Brough,  and  another  at  Burraneiif» 
Thefe  are  all  of  a  circular  form,  and  have  no  entrance  but 
from  the  top*  They  are  built  of  ftones  of  fuch  a  fizc  as 
could  not  have  been  raifed  without  the  ufe  of  engines  which 
could  hardly  have  been  fuppofed  to  be  in  uft  at  the  rude  pe- 
riod in  which  thefe  buildings  muft  have  been  ere£ted.  There 
are,  in  different  parts  of  the  country,  PiAifh  caftles,  more 
entire  than  thofe  in  this  pariOi.  No  tradition,  or  hiftorical 
account,  can  now  be  had  \  owing,  perhaps,  in  a  great  mea- 
fure,  to  this  circumftance,  that  very  few  of  the  dcfcendants 
from  the  original  inhabitants  now  remain.  When  thefe 
iflands  were  transferred  from  Denmark  to  Scotland,  many 
firom  Scotland  came  ovei*  in  different  lines.  By  dint  6f  fu- 
perior  wealth,  fuperior  wiidom,  or  fome  other  means,  ma« 
nj  of  them  acquired  eftates,  by  buying  out  the  Norvegian 
proprietors,  whoie  pofleiBons  in  general  were  fmall,  owing  td 
a  regulation  they  had,  of  dividing  their  landft  equally  among 
their  children.  This  regulation  had  rendered  the  pofieffions 
of  each  individual  very  trifling  in  many  infiances* 

Vol.  L  3  £  Mi/L 


401  St0ti/lkiit  AccmM 

Mifedlaneous  Oi/ervatitms.— The  people  fai  geacfal  are  aoc 
difjpoied  to  induitry  \  tor  which  thej  cannot,  however,  1b 
much  blamed,  as  no  way  has  yet  been  pointed  out  to  thcs 
by  which  they  might  turn  their  induftry  to  account.  No 
nianufadures  are  eftablifhed  ;  and,  excepting  what  the  men 
may  gain  by  fiOimg^  the  witoi  and  children  at  kelp  bumiiig 
during  a  few  weeks  m  f ummer  %  they  have  not  a  pn^)abk 
chance  ol  earning  a  penny,  but  by  the  mana£i£hirc  of  fiagk 
ftockings,  which  is  iois  of  time,  to  call  it  no  worfe. 

Moft  of  the  young  men  who  leave  the  country  embrace  a 
ieafaring  life.  It  is  the  only  line  witn  which  they  have  a 
chance  oi  being  acquainted.  Many,  who  have  left  the  omiii- 
try  in  this  line,  in  a  very  mean  way,  have  riien  to  indepca- 
dent  and  genteel  ftations.  On  the  prelent  alarm  of  war,oc£ 
hundred  men  were  demanded  by  the  Admiralty  beijare  they 
would  grant  proteAion  to  the  trade  and  fifheries  of  thde 
jflands,  1  be  proportion  of  this  pariih  was  fix  men.  Sateen, 
ho?rever,  entered  voluntarily. 

.  The  people  are  rather  expenfive  and  luxuiioos  for  thdr 
circumftances.  This  may  be  alcribed  to  many  cauks  i  one  ia 
particularism  that  their  landmafters  give  them  unlimited  credit. 
The  people  think  they  are  entitled  to  this,  becaufe  they  £& 
for  them.  Whatever  they  want,  or  think  they  want,  is  fur- 
niihed  from  the  booth  or  ftorehoufe  of  the  proprietors,  or 
bought  from  the  fliops  in  Lerwick.  When  the  day  of  ac- 
count comes,  it  very  often  happens  that  the  gainings  of  the 
year  cannot  nearly  pay  for  the  ezpence. 

The  people  in  general  are  hofpitable  in  tlie  extreme,  and  dii^    i 
pofed  to  humane  and  generous  a£tions.  Few  wrecks  have  ever 
happened  on  the  coafts  of  this  pftri(h|  but,  when  they  have 

fiappened^ 


g^  Debing.  403 

happened,  every  attention  has  been  fliewn  to  fave  and  com- 
fort the  diftrefied«  When  the  watch  was  not  veiy  ftriA,  at« 
tempts  indeed  might  be  made  to  pilfer  from  the  wreck. 

The  circnmftances  of  the  inhabitants  cannot  be  materially 
bettered^  nor  their  fituation  rendered  more  comfortable,  un- 
til one  radical  evil  is  removed,  VIz^  the  (hort  and  precarious 
nature  of  the  leafes.  For  no  man  can  have  a  f  pirit  for  im- 
provement, or  pay  any  great  attention  to  rear  a  ftock  on  a 
pofleflion  from  which  he  knows  not  but  he  may  be  turned  off 
next  year.  Another  thing  efTenttally  neceflary  would  be  to 
cre£t  fifhing  and  manuCai^hiring  villages,  and  the  introduc- 
tion of  proper  manufactures  among  them.  To  that  the  indut> 
trious  part  of  them  might  have'conftant  employment,  which 
h  now  far  from  being  the  ca(e.  The  manufa^res  mofl  pro- 
per for  this  country  are,  ift,  woolen  manufia£lures,  in  which 
the  inhabitants  are  fo  far  back,  that  they  often  fell  their  wool 
to  the  Orkney  people  at  a  very  low  price,  and  next  year  buy 
their  ftuffs,  made  of  the  fame  wool,  at  a  very  high  price.  A 
wdl  conduced  manufaAure  of  fifhing  lines  would  fave  a  great 
deal  of  money  to  the  country,  and  fecure  to  the  inhabitants 
a  more  certain  fupply  of  this  important  article  than  they  can 
have  while  they  depend  entirely  on  an  importation  from 
Hamburgh.  A  tannery  might  be  of  confiderable  advantage. 
At  prefent,  raw  hydes  are  exported,  except  a  few  which  are 
tanned  in  the  country,  but  fo  indifferently,  as  to  produce  lea- 
of  no  durability. 

A  total  fuppreffion  of  fmuggling  would  contribute  greatly 
to  the  profperity,  and  prelervation  of  the  morals,  of  the  peo- 
ple ;  provided,  at  the  fame  time^  the  excife  was  taken  off 
fi^cb  fpi^its  as  are  confumed  by  the  fifhermen  during  the  fiOi- 

ii;g 


404  Statijiical  Account 

ing  feafon.    They  cannot  prolecute  the  fifliing  withooft  -m 
Iktlci  and  they  cannot  a£ford  to  ufe  duty  paid  fpirits. 

A  material  alteration  would  be  necefiary  in  condudmg  the 
few  improvements  which  are  attempted.  Inftcad  of  fettling 
the  youngeft  and  pooreft  beginners  on  the  new  outfets»  thef 
ought  to  be  given  to  men  of  ftock  and  ^^th  fuffident  to 
enable  them  to  make  a  proper  improvement  of  the  foil.  The 
leafes  ought  to  be  long,  and,  for  a  few  years  at  leaft,  the  rents 
very  moderate. 

Until  the  agriculture  of  the  country  be  brought  to  more 
perfection  than  it  is  at  prefent,  until  manufaAures  (hali  be  c- 
OabU(hed,  and  villages  ereAed,  it  would  be  proper  to  difcea- 
ragCi  as  luuch  as  poffible,  early  marriages,  when  the  pities 
have  nothing  lo  begin  the  world  with,  and  perhaps  both 
parties  coniiderably  in  debt  before  marriage.  The  tenants 
complain  that  they  are  obliged  to  fell  all  their  fi(h,  oiI| 
&c  to  their  landlords.  It  is,  however,  doubtful  how  far  any 
alteration  of  this  fyftem  would  be  beneficial  to  thern^  wue 
they  allowed  to  fell  their  iifh,  oil,  &c.  to  the  higheft  bidder. 
Tbeu*  iand-ren'^s  would  of  courie  be  raifedi  and  they  might 
be  deprived  ot  that  affiftanpe,  which  they  will  always  need  in 
years  of  fcarcity,  tintil  proper  inanufai^ures  afc  eftablifhed  a- 
pong  them. 

Some  years  ago,  a  linen  inanufaflure  was  eftabliffaed,  and  a 
bleach6eld  hid  out,  but  wasfpon  given  up,  after  \hc  comp^nj 
concerned  had  expended  about  L.  1600  sterling  on  the  hoa- 
fcsy  works,  and  machinery.  Tlfe  principal  heritors  in  the 
country  had  (hares  in  this  entcrprifc ;  but,  whether  it  vas 
owiD.Mo  the  improper  managepent  of  thofe. employed  to 
conduft  it|  or  from  the  cpmpany  beginning  on  too  estenflve 


tf  Deking.  405 

a  plaa^  tlie  fcheme  £uled,  and  the  partners  loft  every  pennj 
<>f  their  refpeAive  (hares.  A  linen  manufacture  was  lur<J^ 
improper  as  a  firft  attempt  to  intro<)uce  manufiiChires 
this  conntrji  far  back  in  improvementi  becaafe  no  flax  is 
fed  in  the  ifland^  and  the  people  had  never  been  pmiouflf 
inftruAed  in  the  mode  of  fpinning  lint.  The  fame  fiiin  ex* 
pended  in  eftabliQiing  a  woolen  manufaAure  would  have  dooe 
cflential  good  to  the  inhabitants,  and  would  have  emplojcd 
many  a  hand  which  is  now  idle,  or  employed  in  deftroying 
materials,  which  ought  to  be  turned  to  a  more  profitaide  ic* 
count. 

Another  way  by  which  the  fituation  <^  the  people  in  dais 
country  would  be  confiderably  bettered,  would  be  to  ofe  left 
of  iLngliih  cloths,  and  fineries  of  different  kinds,  which  Itfve 
of  late  been  imported  in  amazing  quantitieSi  and  to  be  fatisliccl^ 
as  their' forefathers  were,  with  cloth  and  ftu£l%  made  htHn  the 
fleeces  of  their  own  flocks,  and  manufnAured  by  their  < 
hands.  But,  at  prefent,  few  or  none  will  appear  from  1 
in  any  manufaAure  of  the  ifland,  even  on  ordinary  occ 
All  are  clad  in  Englifli  cloths  or  ftuffs^a  very  few  of  the  moft 
frugal  excepted. 

There  are  no  bridges,  nor  fo  much  as  the  form  of  a  md, 
through  the  ifland.  The  traveller  goes  on  bis  way  with  k 
tion,  through  the  hills  and  deep  mofles  \  and,  by 
fbmetimes  to  the  one  hand,  and  fometimes  to  the  other, 
deavours,  in  the  beft  manner  he  can,  to  get  clear  of  the  1 
and  ditches,  and  peat-banks,  that  fall  in  his  way.  No  t&dtk 
thing  as  ftatute- labour  is  exaAed,  which  appears  a  grett  do* 
fcA  in  the  police ;  for,  though  regular  roads  could  not  prrhips 
}>e  made }  yet^  by  very  little  attention  every  year,  a  much  u^vc 


4o5  Siatijiical  Aceama 

coniorttble  communication  might  be  opened  between  die 
different  parts  of  the  country. 

The  fituation  of  this«  and  indeed  of  every  pariih  in  thefe 
iflandsfin  the  years  1 782  and  1 783,  and  for  lour  years  after  that 
pieriod,  was  deplorable  indeed.   The  crop  of  1782  failed  ;  the 
crop  of  1 783  was  ftiil  worfe  ;  and^  to  couiplcte  the  calamity,  a 
general  mortahty  ot  the  homed  cattle  and  (heep  took  place 
during  the  winter,  as  before  mentioned.  Few,  in  comparilbo, 
were  left  alive  ;  and  the  diftr>  fled  poiieflbrs  of  their  poor  re- 
mains were  obliged  to  fellthe  greater  partj  m  order  to  purchale 
meal  for  their  families.    The  meal  was  from  L.  2  :  5  :  o  to 
L.  a  :  7  :  o  a  boll.     The  moft  fubftamial  farmers,  after  the 
lofs  of  their  cattle  land  '  leep,  could  not  afford  to  purchafe  a- 
ny  adequate  fupply  ^  and  many  of  the  poorer  could  purcbaie 
little  or  none,  but  lived  uiodlj  ott  wiiks,  limpets,  and  iiich  o- 
ther  ihell-iifh,  as  the  <ea-(hores  afforded,  added  to  the  charity 
of  their  richer  neighbours,  which,  in  luch  circnmfhnccs, 
could  not  reach  far,  as  there  were  many  to  feek,  and  very 
few  that  could  afford  to  give  a  morfel.     This  pariCb  had  a 
deep  fhare  in  the  general  diftrefs,  being  the  pooreft  parifli  in 
the  country.    Government  gave  Tome  iupply ;  and  news  of 
their  diftrefs  called  forth  liberal  fublcriptions  for  their  relief 
both  in  England  and  Scothind.     With  thefe  provifions  were 
bought,  and  fent  to  the  country,  and  diftriboted  in  proper- 
tion  to  the  diftrefs  of  individuals.    This,  joined  to  a  general 
good  fmall  fifliery  which  providentially  prevailed  during  moft 
of  the  fcarce  years  above  mentioned,  greatly  affifted  the  land- 
holders to  preferve  their  tenants  from  pcrifhing.    Every  he- 
ritor exerted  himfclf  to  the  utmoft  of  his  ability  in  importing 
meal,  which  was  fold  out  in  fuch  proportions  as  were  thought 
prudent,  according  to  the  number  in  each  family.     Thijre  is 
reafon  to  think  that  none  died  from  mere  want  5  but  there  is 


oftoehlng.  4«7 

no  doubt  that  many,  from  the  unwholcfome  food  which 
they  were  fometimes  obliged  to  nfe,  contracted  difeafes  that 
brooght  them  to  the  grave. 

Eagles,  cotbies,  and  crows,  often  do  great  damage  to  the 
com  and  young  lambs.  A  price  has  been  fet  upon  them 
by  the  commiflioners  of  fupply,  viz.  5  s.  for  the  head  of  an 
eagle,  4  d  for  a  corby's  head,  and  2  d.  for  a  crow's.  This 
regulation  has  made  thefe  birds  of  prey  lefi  numerous  than 
they  formerly  were.  Plovers,  fnipes,  and  ducks  of  all  kinds 
abound,  but  no  moorfbol,  hares,  or  partridges.  The  migra- 
tory birds  are,  the  chalder,  refemblingthe  lapwing.  In  mild 
leafons  they  appear  in  the  month  of  January.  Sometimes  not 
^ill  the  beginning  of  March,  and  diiappear  in  the  month  of 
September.  Swans  appear  in  great  flocks  in  fpring,  in  their 
courfe  to  the  eaftward,  and  m  autumn  on  their  return.  They 
reft  themfelves  for  feveral  days  on  our  lochs  and  voes,  but 
none  bring  forth  their  young  in  this  country.  Kittyweaks 
come  in  great  flocks  in  the  fpring,  and  breed  in  the  face  of 
the.higbeft  rocks.  Their  young  are  efteemed  more  delicate 
than  chickens.  Hens,  geefe^  and  other  domeftic  birds,  a« 
bound  hi  every  place. 

The  parifli  has  fome  peculiar  advantages,  and  fome  pecu- 
liar difad vantages.  The  northern  parts  Lie  very  conveniently 
for  the  imali  filhing  of  fillocks,  puUocks,  haddocks,  whitings, 
and  a  fmall  kind  ol  cod  \  fome  of  which  are  caught  at  aimoft 
every  fcalon  of  the  year,  and  very  near  the  fhore.  It  has  al- 
ready bJen  obfervedy  that  this  kind  of  fiihery  is  more  gene- 
rally Dencticial  than  the  great  fifliery  of  ling,  cod,  and  tufls:, 
which  can  only  be  profecuted  during  a  few  of  the  fummer 
months*  In  the  different  voes  on  the  fouth  part  of  the  pa- 
rilh J  there  is  often  caught  great  quantities  of  herrings,  from 

the 


4o8  Statiftkd  AtcmM 

tlie  aiOBtli  of.  Aaguft  to  December.  The(e  are  lold  to  tlie 
birds*  or  their  tackimeni  at  the  rate  of  5  s.  to  6  s«  a  barrel, 
as  thrj  are  brought  afliore.  Two  barrels  of  the  frefh  fiih  are 
takm  to  make  a  barrel  of  rrpacked  herrings ;  fo  that  the 
\  receive  5  s.  to  6  s.  for  from  800  to  1000  herriogs. 


The  language  is  the  fame  as  in  the  Contin^t  of  Scotland. 
The  inhabitants,  however,  have  left  of  a  provincial  br6giie 
1  many  parts  of  North  Britain. 


The  names  of  places  in  the  pari(h»  and  throqgh  all  Shcl- 
hodt  are  derived  from  the  Norwegian  language ;  and  th<^ 
who  vnderftand  that  language  fay  that  the  name  b»  in  moft 
hiftances*  Tery  ezpreffive  of  the  fituation  and  convenience  of 
Acfiace. 


NUM. 


\ 


NUMBER     XLL 

PARISH  OF  KlILRENNEY* 

By  the  Rtv.  Mr  William  Beat. 


NaiHe^  Situaiifm^  Exttf^i  And  5mA 

TVL  E  name  of  this  parifli  feeins  to  be  derived  from 
the  faint  to  whom  the  church  was  dedicated,  viz. 
St  Irenaetts,  Bifhop  of  Lyons,  whofe  fame  for  pietj  was 
at  that  time  great  throughout  Chriftendom.  What  ferves 
tt>  confirm  thia  origin  of  the  name  is,  that  the  fifhermen, 
who  have  marked  out  the  fteeple  of  this  church  for  a  meath 
or  mark  to  dtreft  them  at  fea,  call  it  St  Imie  to  this  day  $ 
and  the  eftate  which  Kes  ckife  by  the  church  is  called  Imie« 
hiH;  but,  by  the  tranrpofition  of  the  letter  i,Rinnie.hill.  What 
adds  to  the  probability  of  this  interpretation,  is  a  traditioa 
fVtU  exifting  heve,  that  the  devotees  at  Aoftruther,  who  coul4 
not  fee  the  church  of  Kilrenney  till  thej  travelled  up  the  ri^ 
iiag  ground  to  what  they  called  the  Hill,  then  pulled'  off 
their  bonnets^  fell  on  their  koces^  crofled  tkemfelvesi  and 
prayed  to  St  Imie* 

This  parifh  lies  in  the  county  and  fytuxl  of  T^t^  and  preic  ^ 
bytery  of  St  Andrews.  It  is  about  a  nules  long,  and  %  broad^ 
almofk  in  the  form  of  a  circle^  ibmewhat  elliptical  on  the  coa& 
It  is  bonnded  by  Crail  on  the  eail}  Anftruther  on  the  wefti 

Vol.  L  3  F  Deninno 


Stat^Ucal  Auoma: 

Deniiino  on  the  north ;  and  one  continued  ridge  of  bbc3 
rocki,  that  fet  bounds  to  the  iea,  on  the  fonth.  The  ground 
rifes  gnulually  from  Touth  to  norths  aod  ferms  fuch  a  dedi- 
▼ity  at  it  ft  barrier  to  inundation,  i^fteraftorm,  abundance 
of  fea  weeds  are  thrown  on  the  {hore,  which  fenre  fior  ma- 
aure.   The  land^  at  atfaverage,  lets  at  40 1.  an*  aci«. 


&«— The  incumbent  was  bom,  and  has  fpent  the  grestcft 
part  of  his  life,  in  this  pariih  ;  and^  within  Eis  remembrance, 
1^  quantities  of  large  cod,  ling,  haddocks,  herrings,  holi- 
but,  turbot,  and  mackarcl,  have  been  caught  here ;  but  the 
fiflieries  are  now  mirerablj  decayed.  He  can  remember,  when 
he  was  a  young  man,  that  he  numbered  no  lefi  than  50 
large  fiihing  boats,  that  required'  €  men  each,  belonging 
to  the  town  of  Cellardykes,  all  employed  in  the  herring 
£fliery  iil*the  fummer  feafon.  He  can  rccoUeft  that  he  faw 
inch  a  number  of  boats  throwing  their  nots  at  one  time  as 
he  could  not  number,  biit  heard  that  the  CoUeAor  of  tlie 
Chiftoms  at  Anftruther  at  that  time,  who  kept  an  account  of 
them,  faid  they  amounted  to  500)  being  gathered  together 
from  all  quarters  to  thif  (hore ;  and  t&e  wmter  fiihcry  was 
proportionally  great.  He  has  feen  10  or  12  large  boats  come 
mto  die  harbour  in  one  day,  fwiming  to  the  brim  ^ith  bigp 
eod,  befides  30,  40,  or  50,  ftrung  upon  a  rope  faftcocd  to 
the  ftern,  which  they  took  in  tow  \  and,  what  will  hasdly  be 
credited,  many  a  large  codV  head  lying  for  dung  on  the  land. 
At  that  time,  a  gentleman  in  Dunbar  had'  the  largeft  cod  In 
tack  for  4  d.  each,  on  this  provifo,  that  every  inhabitant  of 
the  parifli  {hould  be  at  liberty  to  pick  the  beft  fi(h  for  their 
own  ufe  at  his  price,;  and  of  all  tshe  tfaoufaods  he  ever  £iw, 
die  largeft  were  bought  for  4di  At  that  time,  he  remem- 
bered no  left  than  24  fmall  brewen  in*  the  town  of  Cellar- 
dykes,  probably  fo  called  from  a  range  of  cdlars  along  the 

ihorti 


Hf  Kilrenneym 


4«* 


Aore,  bpilt  for  preparing  fifli  for  ezportatioo^  bntnosr  thtijr 
arC:  reduced  to  two  or  three*  owing  to  the  decay  of  the-filhe- 
iry*  So  ftrong  is  the  contraft  between  that  time  and  thxs^ 
4liaU  not  only  few  or  no  fi(h  are  caught,  but,  to  the  amaze- 
snent  of  every  body,  the  haddocks  fcem  to  have  deforted  ths 
fcoaft  \  and  for  two  years  paft  it  has  become  a  rarity  to  fee 
one. 

P<{^dSfltffim.— The  population  of  this  parifli  has^onfiderably 
-decreafed  within  thefe  30  years.  Aocording  to  Dr  WebftePs 
ftate  of  the  popuhtioo,  the  number  of  inhabitants  was  1348* 
The  numbers  have  been  diminiihed.by  the  decay  of  the  fifhe* 
4y  and  the  union  of  fivms. 


33  fiunilies  cmfift  of 

I  peel 

00 

« 

. 

3d 

49        ,        .        .        , 

2       ....        98 

^ 

3 

138 

A4 

4 

176 

29 

•       5 

»45 

19        . 

6 

114 

■10 

'             .« 

.       7 

> 

70 

II 

9 

86 

4 

9 

>       << 

.        3fi 

6 

10 

<So 

I 

II 

II 

5 

44 

60 

1 

.      13 

'        >3 

a 

•      14 

26 

I 

.      It 

16 

m^^^                                                                                                                             _ .. 

^1  fas 

niliet 

■iah. 

lUtan 

u  1086 

Annual 


4t«  Stgti/ikalJuoimt 

Annual  a^^erage  of  births  from  1770  to  1790          «  34 

Males  born  io  the  preceding  period            •            ^  331 

females        •                                •            •            »  3j^o 

Annual  average  of  deaths  during  the  fame  period  •      ao 

Males  who  died             «           •             •            •  177 

'Females            •           •           •           •           •  235 

Prices  of  Prow/tens. '-^Tht  incumbent  remembers*  that, 
^hen  rhe  filhermen  ufed  to  lay  up  their  wiater  provifioosi 
they  bought  beef  for  a  merk  Scots  a  ftones  a  good  hen 
was  got  for  4d.s  a  pound  of  butter  for  34  d.;  and  other 
i^iAuals  in  proportion :  Now,  4  d«  a  pound  is  paid  at  all  fea- 
fons  of  the  year  fbr  beef|  mutton,  veal,  )amb,  and  pork  \  a 
pound  of  butter  cofts  8  d« ;  a  hen  i  s.  \  and  the  price  of  g«cfe, 
ducks,  &c.  is  proportionally  raifed. 

Stipend^  Isf-c. — ^The  value  of  the  ftipend,  including  the  glebe, 
amounts  to  X.  100  Sterling.  Sir  John  Anftruther  of  An- 
ftruthcr  is  patron.  Of  9  heritors  only  3  rcfide.  The  manie 
was  originally  built  by  Mr  James  Melvil,  an  eminent  refiv. 
mer.  On  the  lower  lentilc  of  the  highoft  window,  whkh 
dire£lly  overlooks  the  town,  he  ordered  this  inicription  to  be 
made,  ««  The  Watch  Tower,^  which  remains  diftindl  to  this 
day. 

Rent. — The  valued  rent  is  L  8470  Scots.  The  real  rent 
is  difficult  to  be  precifcly  afcertained  \  h}\x  it  may  be  fiaied 
«t  L  2195  bterling. 

School, — ^The  fchoolmafter  is  accommodated  with  a  neat 
little  hottfe,  frouring  the  public  ftreet,  containing  afchool 
room  and  kitchen  ou  th<  ground  floor,  2  rooms  and  a  dofet 
gtlQvej  with  a  garret,  and  a  fmall  piece  of  ground  before  the 

4oor^ 


y  Kiireimeyip  4 1 j; 

Qoorj  indofed  for  a  garden.  His  falary,  as  fchoolmafteri  and 
perquifites  as  precentor  and  feffion-derk,  amonnt  to  about 
L.  1 1  Sterling,  befides  what  he  can  make  of  fchool  fees, 
which  are  here  very  fmalL  The  number  of  fcholars  is  about 
50  or  60,  at  1 8.  2 d.  a  quarter  for  EnglUh  $  writing  is.6d»% 
writing  and  arithmetic  a  s*  6  d.  $  Latin  3  s.  wl|ich  few  are  dj£^ 
pofed  to  learn. 

Antiquities. — ^On  the  eaftem  extremity  of  the  pari(h|  at  the 
very  verge  of  the  Tea  mark,  b  a  cave,  which  feems  to  have 
been  the  habitation  of  ibmefolitary  iiint  in  the  days  of  old« 
The  fuccef&ve  tenants  of  this  manfion  have  left  figures  of  cro& 
fcSf  rudely  cut,  here  and  there.  It  has  been  converted  into  a 
bam^  and  is  large  enough  to  admit  two  threfliers  at  a  time. 


NUM. 


|1f  SMi/lkalJcaunl 


NUMBER     JUL 

f  ARISH    OF   ARNGASK. 

Jfjr  /ik  Riv.  Mr  William  LAy<;. 


ttami^  Situatkn,  Extent  ^  and  Soil^ 

TH  E  andent  as  well  as  die  Aodern  aaioe  gma  to  dias 
pariih  is  Arogaik.  The  name  of  die  £urm  wluch  in* 
eludes  the  hill  on  which  the  church  ftands«  is  the  iame 
with  that  of  the  parUh.  From  this  &rm  the  pariih  proba^ 
Uy  derived  its  name,  which  is  dcifcriptive  of  the  nature  of 
llie  pafifhi  and  Is  entirely  compoied  of  hills.  It  is  coo^ 
pounded  of  Am^  which  is  probably  derived  from  the  Latin 
word  Arvum^  and  ga/k^  which  is  commonly  underftood  to 
^gnify  what  is  large.  Amgafl:  may  hence  fignify  elevated 
or  large  arable  land  |  and,  in  truth,  the  hiUs  in  this  pariih 
are  almoft  all  capable  of  culture.  The  pariih  is  in  the  pret 
bytery  of  Perth,  and  the  iynod  of  Perth  and  Stirling.  It  is 
nearly  of  a  circular  form,  and  about  4  m9es  in  diameter,  b 
is  bounded  by  the  pariihes  of  Strathmiglo,  Abemetky,  Drou, 
Forgandenny,  Forteviot,  and  OrweL  In  this  pariih  there  b 
a  confiderable  variety  of  foU.  Upon  fome  of  the  hills  it  s 
light  and  ihallow;  but  there  are  feveral  banks  of  very  ricb 
fertile  ground,  capable  of  producihg  almoil  any  crop.  He 
hills  are  generally  green,  and  afibrd  excellent  paihnre.  Thm 
is  more  land  in  j>afittre  than  in  tillage  in  ^iiis  fariSu    There 


Tcft  two  or  three  moors,  moftly  covered  wkh  heath  \  and 
there  is  very  little  meadow  ground  in  the  parifli.  The 
arable  ground  is  let  at  more  than  20  s.  an  acre.  It  is  not 
many  years  iince  the  praAice  of  indofing  began  here  }  and  it 
k  only  a  few  years  fince  grafi  was  fown.  Seed  time,  if  the 
feafon  anfwersi  begins  in  March  or  April,  and  harvcft  in>Sep« 
tember  and  October.  The  parUh  fupplies  itfelf  with  the  no- 
cefiaries  of  life ;  and  fends  to  market  corn^  butter,  checfe^^ 
f#wl6,  cattle,  and  fome  iheepr 

jAr^  and  Di/lemfers .^^The  air  is  pure  and  wfaolefome^.  The 
inhabitants  are  not  opprefled  with  exceffive  heat  in  fummerf 
nor  do  they  fuffer  intenfe  cold  in  winter,  as  the  hoar  froft  ia 
lefs  frequent  and  fevere  than  in  low  places.  The  moft  com- 
mon diflempers  are  tolds,  which  in  feveral  inftanccs  termi* 
aate  in  conTumptions.  The  (curvy  is  likewife  a  common  di£> 
order,  which  originates,  as  is  liippofed,  from  the  frequent  ufe 
of  oat  meal.  Agues  were  frequent  fome  years  ago ;  but  there 
has  not  been  a  fiogk  perfen  affiiAed  with  that  difeafe  fince 

Pcpulation^f—Tot  a  long  time  pafl,  the  population  of  thtt 
pariih  feems  to  have  been  nearly  the  fame. 

Return  of  the  inhabitants  to  Dr  Webfter             •  736 

Inhabitants,  anno  1790             r             .              •  554 

Annual  average  of  births  from  1783  is  nearly            •  16 

of  deaths  exaAly            •         •        •  14 
m                       of  marriages  within  the  parifli,  during 

-  the  fame  period,  nearly              •            •             •  ^ 

The  number  of  perfons  under  xo  years  of  age  is      »  x 27 

Between  10  and  20           .           •           •            •  lae 

Between  ao  and  ^           «           •           •           •  229 

Between 


4 1 6  Siaij/Ncai  Account 

Between  50  and  70  jean  of  age  •  •          •         61 

Above  70           •            •            •  •  •             16 

Jferiton  (alt  of  whom  except  4  refide  in  the  paiifli}            32 

Freeholders            .            •            •  •  •             i 

Varmera           •        •        •           •  •  »            34 

Mechanka          •            •            *  ,  «             2; 

Seceders           •          •                   •  •  «         15a 

Induding  herdsy  there  are  59  male,  and  3  j;  female  Ssmat%p 
who  refide  in  the  families  which  thej  ferve.  Several  others 
have  families  of  their  own.  The  people  are  (ceminglj  con- 
tent with  their  condition;  They  are  generally  frugal  i  and 
almoft  all  of  them  fobcr  and  decent. 

p^0r.— -There  are  7  poor  people,  who*are  every  month  ibp« 
plied  with  a  quantity  of  meal.  The  higheft  allowanoe  k  9 
pecks ;  the  loweft  2.  Money  is  alfo  diftributed  to  fome  of 
them  occailonally.  -  About  16  acres  of  land  were  purchaied 
hy  the  feffion,  for  the  benefit  of  the  poor,  in  1726,  at  a6oo 
merks :  They  now  let  for  L.  15  Sterling  fer  annum,  Thh, 
with  L.  4  :  5  :  o  Sterling,  the  intereft  of  a  fund,  with  what 
arifes  from  the  u(e  of  the  mort-cloth,  and  the  ordinary  col* 
leAions  at  the  church,  conftitute  all  that  is  applied  to  the  re^ 
lief  of  the  poor.  The  colle£Hon  at  the  church  from  Whit* 
fimday  1789  till  Whitfunday  1790,  amounted  to  L.  S  :  o :  10 
Sterling.  In  1782  and  1783,  the  managers  of  the  poors 
funds  collected  a  voluntary  contribution  through  the  parifli 
for  fuch  of  the  lower  ranks  as  were  in  diftrefied  drcum- 
Ihmces. 

Wagiu^r^  day^s  wages  tot  a  labonrer  m  hufbandry  is  xod. ; 
for  a  Wright  is.;  for  a  mafon  often  is.  8d.;  for  a  tay« 
lot  6d.  and  8  d«  with  his  viAuals.    The  ufual  wages  of  male 

iervantt 


if  Arngajk.  4^7 

fcrroirta  a«  L.  fi,  and  fomcumc^  U  7  Sterling  perMtium^ 
.wuh  their  iriflilals.  Hie  wages  of  fcmak  fcrvints  arc  about 
X..  2  :  jp  :  0.  The  prices  of  provifio^is  in  this  pariQi  are  rc- 
«uUlcd  hy  ^e  pcisbbouriag  tQWjis,  Pcrtli,  ^linroii,  &c, 

C:hurck,^Hd^Stipend.^^zct  of  the  church,  at  IcaiV  muft 
lia«  bfOR  huBt  before  Xh(t  Reformation,  as  there  is  a.placc 
in  the  wallior  the  font ;  and  the  ftaiue  qf  <he  foundrcfs  (dud 
to  havc.bcen .%  Mrs  B^FcJay)  h^s  the  beads,  jufed  by  Catholics 
^an^9g  roond  the  hands.  The  chur<:h  was  oxiginally  a  cha- 
pelj  bHiUfor.tbeaccproippdationof  t!ie  family  of  Balvaird, 
and  their  depexidants.  The  Aipcud  is  L.  5 13 :  »9  ?  3  Scots, 
*vith  |Q  hf^\^  %9d  I  firlo^,of  meal ;  the  glebe  is  fcirccly  worth 
i..  6  Siwliflg)  fo  ihgx  when  tbe  ipcal  fells  at  16  s.  a  boll,  the 
ilipend,  iocluding  the  glebe,  will  amount  to  about  L.  70  Ster- 
ling. The  mafife  was  repaired  about  10  years  ago.  The 
church  has  got  few  repairs  for  thefe  laft  100  years.  Mcflrs 
Davfdind  Adam  Low  of  Eaft  Fordcl  are  joint  patrons. 

Mlfcellanecus  O^rw/ww.— There  is  one  quarry  of  good 
"whin-ftone  in  the  pariflb,  and  more  might  be  difcovercd  if 
the  ground  were  dug  to  a  fufficicnt  depth.    After  much  rain, 
the  river  comes  down  witli  great  force.     It  is  faid,  that,  in 
the  place  where  a  barley  mill  now  ftands,  a  fulling  mill  was 
entirely  fwcpt  away  by  a  flood.     There  arc  about  52  ploughs 
in  this  parifh;  many  of  them  are  drawn  by  oxen-,  but  the 
nun^ber  of  fuch  ploughs  is  gradually  diminifliing.     There  is 
only  I  two-wheeled  chaife.     A  very  fmall  hill  ftands  nc^r 
Damhead,  between  the  new  road  to  Kinrofs  and  the  water  of 
Farg,    which  is  called  Gallow-Ilill,  where  it  is  fiiid  ftood  a 
g-llows,   upon  which  pcrfons  bciongmg  to  the  barony  of  Bal- 
vaird  were  executed  during  the  feudal  fyftem.     On  the  fouth 
of  Eaft  Fordcl  houfc  (here  is  a  piece  of  ground  named  the 
-Vox-.  I.  »  3G  Optaiu- 


4^8  Stafljlkd  Auoum 

Captain- Ward,  (becaufe  therci  it  is  alleged,  Oliver  Grooivdl 
pitched  his  camp,  and  lodged  in  the  houfe  of  FordeiL  The 
highway  between  Perth  and  Queensfeny  pafib  throogh  tbk 
parilh.  Many  of  the  roads  are  in  a  ftate  of  nature*  The  ia- 
habitants  highly  approve  of  turnpikes :  Some  pay  the  fiatnte- 
labour  half  in  kind  and  half  in  money.  There  are  3  coos- 
tics  which  meet  in  this  parifli  \  the  county  of  fife  to  the  eaft, 
divided  by  the  river  Farg  from  the  county  of  Perth  to  the 
weft  and  north- weft,  and  the  county  of  Kinross,  which  bon- 
ders with  both  thefe  counties,  to  the  fouth.  The  real  rent 
is  not  known,  as  the  lands  are  generally  occupied  by  the  pro- 
prietors. The  valued  rent  of  the  pariih  is  L.  1600  Scots.  A 
hpufe  and  yard  are  let  at  about  10  s.  There  are  at  pftfiat 
feyeral  uninhitbited  houfcs.    Thel«  are  133  inhabiteiL 


KU3C 


(fbumUchetu  419 


K  I^  M  B  E  It    ^III. 
PARISH  OF  DtJMNICHEN. 

Sltuathn^  Extent^  tmd  ifaMB. 

THIS  parUh  is  fituated  io  the  countf  of  Forfar^  It  is 
15  miles  to  the  norlh-eaft  of  Dundee,  9  north-wefi  of 
Arbroath,  and  34  fouth-eaft  frbm  Forfai^v  It  is  bounded  oil 
the  eaft  by  the  parifli  of  Forfar ;  on  the  north  by  Recobie ; 
6n  the  iouth  by  Carmiflie ;  and  on  the  fouth  and  eaft  by  the 
pariihes  of  Kirkden  and  Recobie.  It  contains  about  3200 
Scots  acres.  It  takes  its  naitoe  from  the  largcft  hill  in  the 
parifli.  Dim^  a  Gaelic  Word,  is  invariably  applied  in  Scot* 
land  CO  hills  on  which  Tome  caftlc)  or  place  of  ftrength^  has 
ftood  $  Icikn  is  unknown^  but  probably  a  proper  name.  On 
the  Touch  fide  of  the  hill  is  an  eminence,  noi^  called  Ca(helis» 
t>r  Caftle-hill,  with  vifible  remains  of  the  foundation  of  fbme 
amient  buildings  The  only  other  hill  in  this  pariih  is  called 
Dumbarrow,  probably  from  having  been  the  burial  plaee  of 
fome  perfon  of  eminence.  A  rock  on  its  north  fide  is  Itill 
tailed  Arthur's  Seat.  This  hill  is  not  fo  high  as  that  of  Dun* 
nichen.  The  hill  of  Dunnichen  was  lately  meafured  with 
great  geometrical  accuracy.  The  mill  ftream  of  Muinon 
fulling  mill,  at  the  bafe  of  the  hill,  is  aoQ  feet  above  low  wa- 
ter mark  in  the  harbour  of  Arbroath )  and  the  height  from 

that 


4«o^  S{at^iud  Afmna 

that  ftream  to  the  higbeft  part  of  the  road  over  the  bilT  ts 
443x7  ^^^y  above  which  the  higbeft  faramit  of  the  bill  snay 
rife  about  80  or  xco  feet  ^  fo  that  the  height  of  the  liili  is 
about  700,  or  720. feet  above  the  level  of  the  fea.  T&e  hill 
of  Dunnichen  mns  about  3  miles,  ia  a  fbuth-caft  dire£HoQ  ; 
its  fummit  forming  the  northern  boundary  of  the  parifh. 
The  parHh  extends,  from  ea/V  to  weft,  aboiit  ^  vailcs,  and 
from  fouth  to  northi  ia  one  place,  about  3  miles.  narrovHng 
a  little  ro  the  eaftward. 

Divifion  of  Prcpertjt  and  Defiription  of  &//  and  Surface. — 
This  pari(h  confills  of  three  eftates : 

Acres. 
Dunnichen,  containing  •  .  •  1 800 

Dunbarrow  •         ,        .        •        •         .         «  600 

Tullows,  conjeAured  •  »  •  •  8od 

Total     3200 

llie  foil,  in  general,  is  fenile,  producing  wheat,  flax,  oats, 
and  barley.  The  feafons  are  late,  00  accouot  of  us  clevatioD. 
One  field  is  now  Town  with  wheat  near  the  fomipit  otthe  bill 
of  Dunnichen^  and  at  leaft  500  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
fea  \  no  finall  proof  of  the  poilibiHty  cf  cxtcnd;ag  agricultore 
fDCcefsfulIy  on  the  fides  of  the  high  AiUs  of  Scotland*  Dun« 
fiichen,  containing  about  ;o  acres,  is.  in  the  center  of  the  pea- 
rifh.  The  mofs  of  >t  was  drained  about  3.0  years  ago,  sad 
now  afibrds  a  large  ilipply  of  peats :  In  all  probability  it  will 
furnifii  the  neigbbourhood  with  fuel  for  aboi^t  30  years  long- 
er! an^  nis^T  tt^cn  be  made  a  rich  meadow.  The  reft  of  the 
fuel  is  coal,  brought  by  land  from  the  port  pf  Arbroath  ^  and 
a  fmall  fupply  from  cxteafive  fir  plantations  about  30  year* 
«ld. 


'  Mivtrff  bV.-^This  pariih  contains  no  river  nor  lake,  h 
Is  watered  hj  one  fmall  brook,  called  Vinny»  fome  fay  Finny^ 
or  Attle,  which  takes  it^  rile  in  a  neighbouring  moCe.  It 
runs  from  weft  to  eaft,  stlong  the  fouth  bafe  of  the  hill  of 
Dunnichen,  and  in  its  courfe  turns  one  flax  milly  and  one 
xnill  for  waflxing  yarn.  It  joins  Lunan  water  about  4  miled 
below.  The  burn  of  Craichy»  which  forms  one  of  its  four* 
ce$t  turns  a  corn  mill.  It  contains,  fome  trouf,  much  dimi- 
nifhed  of  late  in  their  number,  by  flax  being  fteeped  in  and 
near  its  ftream.  A  fmall  brook  runs  out  of  the  mofs  of 
Dunnichcn,  and  falls  into  Vinny  alt  the  caftern  extremity  of 
the  parifh. 

Manufa£lures^  Fillagei^  and  Fairs. — Many  weavers,  princi- 
{xflly  of  courfe  linen,  inhabit  this  parifh.  An  attempt  is  now 
makiog  to  inth>duce  the  manufaAure  of  coarfe  cottons.  Dun<- 
^ichen  is  itfelf  a  very  fmall  vilbge,  codfifting  of  the  houfes'of 
the  proprietor,  the  manfe,  a  public  houfe,  and  the  haufes  of 
a  few  mechanics  and  labourers,  not  exceeding  14  in  all.  To 
the  eaftward  is  the  village  of  Drimmitormont,  a  very  old  vil- 
lage,  inhabited  by  Weavers,  each  of  whom  occupy  fix  or  eight 
nicies  of  land.  In  the  year  1788,  a  farm  of  66  acres,  called 
Lethsfm,  has  been  laid  out  by  the  proprietor  of  Dunnichca 
for  a  village.  Streets  have  been  marked  out  on  a  regular 
plan,  and  lots  of  any  extent  are  let  upon  perpetual  leafes^  at 
the  rate  of  L;  2  an  acre.  It  contains  already  about  20  families^ 
•and  new  houfcs  are  rifing  on  it  daily,  the  fituation  being  fa- 
Tdurable  for  fuch  a  plan,  by  having  Vinny  water  on  the  fouth^ 
the  perennial  brook  of  Dunnichen  mofs  running  through  it, 
plenty  of  freeftones  on  the  farm  itfclf,  and  thriving  woods 
and  a  mols  in  its  neighbourhood.  Here  a  fair  or  market  has 
.lately  begun  to  be  held,  once  a  fortnight,  on  Thurfdays,  for 
the  fale  of  cloth^  yarDj  and  flax  ^  and  L.  400  or  L.  500  are 

fome- 


^i«  Staii/lical  AccoiM 

ibmetimes  l^etufned  in  one  market-day.  An  old  elbblillied 
fair  IS  annuallj  held  at  Donnichen,  on  the  2d  Wednefdaj  of 
Marthi  old  ftyle,  called  the  (air  of  St  Caofnan.  It  is  a  tojr 
hkp  at  which  neithe:^  horfes,  com,  nor  cattle^are  fold. 

Church  and  Stipend. — ^The  church  is  ftnall  and  old«  II  was 
dedicated  to  St  Caufoan.  Hiere  are  fome  doubts,  even  in 
the  Popifli  kalcndar,  of  the  exiftencc  of  this  faint,  akhough  I 
large  well  near  the  church  alio  bears  his  name ;  and  the 
ialls  of  fnow,  which  generally  happen  in  March  all  over  Great 
Britain,  is  in  this  neighbourhood  called  St  Caufnan's  Fhv. 
The  mioifter*s  ftipend  is  about  L.  70  a  year,  paid  chiefly  Id 
oat*  meal  and  barley,  befides  a  glebe  of  4  arable  acres,  and  i 
acres  of  gtafs  ground. 

&W.— There  is  a  parlfh  fchool  here.  The  fchoolmd"- 
ter*s  falary  is  L.  8  :  6  t  o  yearly,  with  a  hoaft,  fchool-houfe, 
and  kitchen-garden.  The  prefcht  fchoolmaftcr,  by  his  affi* 
duous  application  to  the  duties  of  his  office,  has  raifed  a  con^ 
iiderable  fchool,  having  feldom  fewer  than  jo  or  60  fcholart, 
t^hom  he  teaches  to  read  and  write  EngliOi,  arithmetic,  and 
Latin,  when  any  of  the  children  require  that  branch  of  cdo^ 
cation* 

State  of  th  Poor,  Parochial  Funds^  and  Records, '^^Thest 
may  be  about  a  dozen  of  poor  and  indigent  perfons  belong- 
ing to  this  parifli,  principally  reduced  to  poverty  by  old  age 
or  diftempers.  A  fufficient  fond  for  their  maintenance  anfes 
from  the  Voluntary  contHbutionS  of  the  parifliloncrs,  collcAed 
on  Sundays,  and  at  the  time  of  the  facramcnr.  it  amounts  at 
prefent  to  about  L.  20  Sterling  a  year,  and  Is  yearly  increa- 
iing  ^  and  from  it  a  refcrve  of  L.  62  :  i  :  to  has  bctn  mack 
as  a  provifioi]  fbr  bad  feafons.    Of  thele  poor  people  feme 

receive 


^  Dimmcim^ 


4n 


nccive  t  qnarterly,  ,and  (bme  a  weekly  sdlowance,  Mcmrdiog 
as  their  neceiSties  require.  The  fasd  is  managed  by  the 
clergjtnan  and  kirk-f(pffion,  who  being  intimately  acquainted 
with  the  circymftan^es  of  every  poor  perfon  in  the  pari(h» 
are  eoaUcd  thereby  to  proportion  the  fupply  to  their  wantt 
and  exigencies. 


^  This^parifli  affords  oney  among  perhaps  many  ii|ftanoes-in 
Scotland,  how  fafely  the  maintenance  of  the  poor  may  be  left 
to  Che  humane  and  charitable  difppfition  -of  the  people,  and 
bQw  unneceflary  it  i^  to  call  in  pofitive  laws  to  their  affiiU 
ance  \  for,  if  fuch  laws  provide  fu%ds  for  maiataining  the 
poor,  they  alfo  provide  poor  for  confuming  the  funds. 

Populaiion.'^This  parifli  has  much  increaied  in  its  popula* 
tion  fince  the  returns  made  to  Dr  Webfter  about  40  yeara 
ago,  and  it  dill  continues  on  the  increafe.  At  the  above 
mentioned  period,  it  contained  only  612  inhabitants  i  where* 
as  it  appears,  from  a  furvey  made  laft  year,  that  their  i^umber 
amounts  to  872,  whereof  75  belong  to  the  anti-burgher 
meetings  of  Forfar  and  Dumbarrow.  An  abftraA  of  the  mar* 
riages,  baptifmS|  and  burial^t  for  the  laft  tea  years,  is  fub^ 
joined. 


Tears. 

Baptifms, 

Marriages. 

Buriab, 

1781 

• 

»9 

10 

14 

1782 

• 

19 

»5          ■ 

20 

J783 

• 

89 

9 

12 

1784 

t 

22 

5 

>3 

1785 

• 

25 

12 

3* 

1786 

• 

24 

7 

45 

1787 

« 

«9 

>         **         '. 

t         14 

Y^ari. 


B# 

SkUiftuU  Jeemai 

T««nr 

Ba|>l^iiis.         Marriage 

Bari4^ 

1788 

22         .           4         . 

t^- 

«T^ 

33          •          »4          • 

ta. 

1790 

25          .            3          . 

•     »4 

237 


Yeatlj  average     24 


89 


19* 


»9 


■  A&  the  dirprop«rt!on  between  the  'detittis  «f  aides  »id  i» 
Bulet  atppears  fomewbat  eztraordiaary^  it  b  ia<ei9«d  friN« 
$he  grave-digger's  Repwt; 


Men. 

Women 

•  1781 

• 

ii 

3 

1782 

• 

18 

2 

1785 

• 

9 

3 

1^84  ' 

• 

*    II 

2 

178J 

• 

27 

3 

1786    ^ 

• 

40 

5 

•  V787 

• 

12 

2 

1788 

• 

•  '    18 

i                   0 

1789 

• 

7 

3 

•r 

— 

•    - 

.»" 

23 

Difproportion  nearly' 6| 

to  one. 

Mo^£  of  Cultivation  dnd  Pr«/«r^,— This  parilh,  like  the  reft 
of  the  country,  has  of  late  received' confiderable  improve- 
xnents  in  agriculture.  About  30  years  ago,  *the  old  fyftem 
began  to  be  altered.  Leafes,  Which  formerly*  were  few,  and 
feldom  granted  for  a  longer  \erm  than  9  years^  have  lately 

•     *  been 


been  gnntcd  for  tp  yearsi  and  the  life  of  the  tenant,  and 
feme  hr  longer  and  more  indefinite  terms.  On  the  principal 
cftate  in  the  partAi  called  Bunnichcn  all  fervitudcs  were  abo» 
hihcd,  fin.  thirlage  to  the  mill  and  blackfrnith's  (bops,  car« 
riages,  and  bonnage^  a  word  of  Gothic  extraAion^  which 
means  {hearing  corn.  Money-rent  was  {bbflltuted  in  the 
place  of  oat-meal^  barley,  kane-fowls  \  yarn,  and  mill  fwine. 
The  farms  were  inclofcd  with  fences  of  free-flone.  Better 
houfes  and  offices  were  built*  The  breed  of  cattle  and  hor- 
ies  was  impro¥cd.  Turnip,  potatoes^  kale,  and  clover  and 
rye-grafs,  were  planted  and  fown  for  winter  proviiion.  The 
diftinAion  of  out  and  infield  was  laid  afide,  and  all  the  field* 
were  cropt  and  cultivated  in  due  rotation.  But  thefc  im« 
provements  were  much  facilitated  by  means  of  a  valuaUe  ma- 
nure whick  began  to  be  ufed  about  that  time  in  this  and  the 
neighbouring  pariihes,  viz.  (hell- marl,  to  which  the  late 
confiderable  increafe  of  the  value  of  the  lands  may  in  a  great 
sneafure  be  afcribed*  This  valuable  manure  bemg  found  In 
greater  plenty  in  this  neighbourhood  than  any  where  elfe  in 
the  kingdom,  or  even  perhaps  in  the  known  world,  it  may 
BOt  be  thought  impertinent  to  dcfcribe  it  more  particularly. 
About  two  miles  north  from  Dunnichen,  there  are  a  chain 
of  lochs  which  abound  with  marl,  viz.  the  lochs  of  Forlar^ 
Reititiethf  Recobie,  and  Balgavic<  In  tfacfc  loch^,  jt  lay 
long  an  maccefllble  treafure^  till,  about  forty-five  years  ago^ 
Capuin  Strachan,  proprietor  o£  the  loch  of  Balgaviiss,  began 
to  drag  It,  much  in  the  fame  manner  that  ballall  is  dragged 
from  the  bed  of  the  river  Thames..  This  he  performed  with 
jb  much  luccefs,  as  not  only  amply  to  fupply  his  own  farms^ 
but  to  have  a  furplus  for  his  neighbours*  His  example  was 
Vol.  I.  3  H  foon 

*  Part  of  the  rent  was  formerly  paid  in  f^wls,  which  were 
called  kane. 


42$  Staiftieal  Account 

foon  followed  on  the  ether  lochs ;  and,  about  30  ye&n  ag%  ' 
the  late  Earl  of  Strathmore^  by  means  of  a  drain,  lowered  the 
furface  of  the  water  of  the  loch  of  Forfair,  thereby  openmg  a 
ftill  more  extenfive  fupply  of  marl ;  and^  in  the  year  1790^ 
Mr  Dempfier  of  Dunnichen  drained  the  loch  and  moG  of 
iteftineth,  by  which  an  inexhauftible  mafs  of  (hdl*marl  has 
been  made  accciEble.  Marl  is  fold  at  8  d.  a  boll,  contain- 
ing 8  folid  feet  j  (ixty  bolls  are  commonly  ufed  for  the  firft 
dreffing  of  an  acre  of  land.  Its  qualities  are  precifdy  the 
fame  with  thofe  of  lime  Which  of  thefe  manures  is  prefe- 
rable* has  been  long  a  fubjeA  of  frequent  difpute  among  the 
fermers;  but  the  chemical  analyfis  of  marl  (hews  clearly  that 
marl  is  in  every  refpcA  the  fame  with  lime,  and  paflefies  the 
additional  advantage  of  being  found  in  a  pulverifed  ftatc,  and 
requiring  no  calcination  previous  to  laying  it  on  the  land. 
The  fimilarity  of  the  two  has  been  fttll  farther  evinced  by  Mr 
Dempfter  having  conftrufted  a  kiln  on  a  plan  fuggefled  by 
Pr  Black  •  for  calcining    marl,   which^  after  calcinatioa, 

.  makes 

*  The  conftrudioii  of  the  kilns  and  method  of  calcining -the 
marl,  will  appear  from  the  loUowing  extrad  from  a  letter  of  Dr 
£lack*s  to  George  DtmplUr,  £fq;  dated  a8th  November  1789. 

*<  There  is  no  doubt  but  that  fuch  marl  as  you  delcribe  may 
be  burned  to  very  sood  lime,  if  the  proper  degree  of  heat  caa 
be  applied  to  it  In  a  country  where  the  only  fuel  is  peat,  I 
have  no  hopes  of  fuccefs  with  the  Reverberatory  With  fuch 
fuel,  m  Inch  a  furnace,  it  w«mld  be  cxpenfive  beyond  meafure, 
and  perhaps  impradli cable,  to  produce  the  ncceffary  degree  of 
heat*  Neither  is  the  experiment  likeiy  to  fucceed  in  a  dr^v- 
)^iln,  in  whicn  lo  much  dult  and  rubbifh  muft  be  produced  by 
the  defceni  of  the  lime,  and  attrition  ut  the  mafTes  againtt  one 
another,  chat  the  pa/Tages  for  the  air  woold  be  too  much  ob« 
flru^ed  But,  in  a  kiln  In  which  the  mafles  of  matl  would  be 
little  di Curbed,  the  operation  might  fucceed  very  well.  I  wnuid 
(heicforc  prepare  the  marl  as  the  harder  kinds  of  peat  are  pre- 
pared  in  fome  places^  by  laying  it,  while  foft^  on  a  plot  ^f 

^raAi 


9f  DunnkhiH  497 

a  Tery  ilrong  'cemcnt«  The  calcination  of  marl  will|  it 
is  hoped,  prove  an  uleful  difcovery  in  this  neighbourhood,  to 
which  other  Mme  muft  be  fetched  from  the  diftance  of  14  or 
\€  miks. 

The  improvements  made  in  this  parifli  have  been  princl- 
^lly  confined  to  the  eflates  of  Dunnichen  and  Dumbarrow, 
Dunnichen  paid,  about  30  years  agp»  nearly  L.  300  of  yearly 

reur^ 

jrafs,  and  forming  it  into  a  bed  feme  Inches  thicic ;  this  bed^ 
vhile  drying,  may  be  a  little  compacted,  by  beating  it  with  the' 
flat  of  the  fpade  or  (hovel,  and,  before  it  be  quite  dry,  it  may  be 
cot  into  pieces  of  the  fize  of  peats.  The  heft  kiln  for  burning  it 
ihould  have  nearly  the  fliape  of  a  draw  kiln,  or  fhould  have  a 
much  deeper  cylindrical  cavity  than  the  vulgar  kilns  in  which 
I'une  \%  burnt ;  it  may  be  from  20  to  30  feet  deep,  and  from  8 
to  9  feet  in  diameter  \  the  top  of  it  fhoald  be  covered  with  a 
dome  or  arch,  having  an  opening  at  top,  3  feet  diametery  td 
let  out  the  fmoke,  &c.  and  a  door  in  the  fide  of  this  dome  for 
Introducing  the  materials ;  at  the  bottom,  where  the  kiln  is  a 
little  coDtraAed,  (hould  be  a  grate  5  feet  fquare,  the  bars  of 
which  being  loofe,  might  be  drawn  out  occafionaily.  In  char^ 
^ng  this  kiln,  lay  firft  1 8  inches  depth  of  peats  over  the  whole 
grate,  then  throw  in  prepared  marl  and  peat»  intermixed  until 
the  kiln  is  filled  to  the  top,  and  at  the  top  of  all  there  Ihould  be 
fome  peats  without  any  man  \  then  fhut  up  the  door  at  the  top 
ot  the  kiln  with  ftones  and  mud,  and  throw  in  the  kindling  at 
the  vent  of  the  dome.  The  fire  will  be  flowly  communicated 
from  the  top  to  the  bottom,  fo  as  to  charr  tHe  whole  peats,  and 
to  expel  the  rjcmains  of  humidity  from  the  maiTes  of  marl ;  and 
this  will  be  accompanied  with  very  little  confumption  of  the  in- 
flammable matter  ;  but,  when  the  whole  is  charred,  it  will  be* 
gin  to  burn  with  abundance  of  heat,  firft  at  the  bottom,  and 
gradually  upwards,  until  all  the  peati  are  completely  conlumed. 
Then,  by  drawing  the  bars  of  the  grate,  the  kiln  may  be  drawn. 
I  cannot  fay  what  proportion  the  peats  Ihould  bear  to  the  marlf 
but  am  of  opinion  that  a  very  moderate  proportion  may  be  fuf* 
ficieat  in  the  middle  and  upper  parts  of  the  kiln.  To  know 
whether  the  marl  is  thoroughly  burnt,  flake  the  lime  with  wa- 
ter when  frefli  drawn  from  the  kiln,  and  try  if  the  flaked  limer 
will  diflblve  in  ai^uafoitiSi  or /piric  offidt,  without  effsrvef* 
cenc?." 


49t  Stat0ieat  Accoma 

rent,  in  conii  money,  and  other  articles,  in  kind.    Tbe  firm- 
buildings  were  ruinous  hoveb;    the  ground  was  ovcr-roa 

with  broom,  and  furz  or  whins,  and  manj  parts  of-the  araMc 
land  were  wet  and  boggy,  and  all  without  trees,     k  kas« 
iince  that  time,  been  drained  and  indofed*     Moft  of  tbe 
muirs,  which  make  a  fifth  part  of  the  cftate,  have  beea 
planted  with  thriving  timber.     The  fences  of  many  of  the 
fields  are  furrounded  with  hedge- row  trees.     Hie  land  has 
been  marled.     The  preieot  rents  may  be  fully  treble   the 
fbrnier.    The  arable  ground  now  lets,  when  out  of  leafc, 
firom  L.  I  to  L.  1  :  lo  :  o  per  acre*    The  meaneft  cottager 
is  now  better    lodged    than  the  former  principal  tenants. 
Wheat  grows  well  on  ieveral  of  the  fi^rms.     There  is  no 
where  better  flax,  turnips,  potatoes,  and  artificial  grafics. 
There  are  feveral  difllerent  fyftems  of  cropping  the  ground. 
The  rotation  of  the  beft  land  is  oats,  flax  or  fallow  for  wheat 
with  dung,  barley,  and  fown  down  with  grafs  feeds,   grals 
for  the  three  or  four  following  years.     A  iecond  rotation  is, 
two  crops  of  oats,  a  crop  of  barley,  a  green  crop,  a  crop  of 
oats  or  iNurley,  with  dung,  and  fi»wn  down  with  grafi-^fceds^ 
hay  cut  one  year,  and  the  grafs  padured  three  or  four.     Tea 
bolls  of  wheat  are  railed  oo  an  acre,  and  fixtcea  fione  of 
fcutched  flax  •.    The  mclofcd  fields  are  let  for  40  or  50  s. 
an  acre  for  pafture,  and  for  L.  5  an  acre  for  flax.     Compofl 
dunghills  are  in  general  ufe,  with  a  certain  proportion  of 
marl,  about  8  or  10  bolls  to  an  acre,  which  is  found  to  an- 
fwer  well ;  and  it  is  generally  now  underftood  that,  if  fields 
are  not  over-cropt,  they  cannot  be  over-maried.     It  is  difli- 
cult  to  afccrtain  accurately  the  increaied  produce  of  an  acre, 
in  confequence  of  the  improved  agriculture.     But  it  is  uni- 
verfally  allowed  that  the  farmers  were  poorer  when  the  rent 

of 

*  A  done  of  flax  is  worth  la  s« 


m£ ch^ir  laAd  wsafrom  4  to  5 s.  ati  adWi  tbaa  now lehen  thej 
pay  tiirec  «r  four  times  that  fuxn.  • 


Mlmrals.'^Xix^  fearch  has  ixen  made  for  miaenis  ia 
this  parifb.  The  moft  vahiable  is  firer.or  grit  flone ;  it  ia 
-eafily  quasrted,  and  is  fonnd  in  every  part  of  the  hill  of  Dua« 
sichen,  and  other  par^^s  of  the  porifh,  and  is  very  fit  for  bmid^ 
log  houfes  and  *  ftone-fences>  A  few  ftrata  of  whin-ftpnef 
appear  in  fome  places,  and  a  coarfc  iroiKbar  \n  the  IvlU  No 
lytnptofn  of  coal  has  as  yet  discovered  itfelf  any  Iwhere  in  thiff 
county.       -        .  -   :   ..      .V 

Air  and  CfimMttB — The  air  of  tbts  parifli  b  fuppofisd  to  bd 
remarkably  heaKhy,  from  the  many  old  people  in  it ;  and  tlie 
cKmate  is  nearly^ file  Cicie  with thacof  all  the eafterd  coofft  of 
the  iDand,  In  the  fprmg,  and  beginning  of  biniOieri  eafterif 
winds  generally  prevail  after  mid-day^ .  attended  with  chillU 
aefs,  and  lometimes  fogs,  though  in  a  left  degree  than  neareii 
¥be  coaft  of  the  German  Ocean.  The  heavieft  rains  come  ia 
autumn  and  winter,  from  the  fouth-eaft^  attended  byviolene 
windsi  which  laft  iometimes  two  or  three  days,  and  occur 
twice  or  thrice  in  the  year. 

Antiquities — ^There  are  onl^  a  few  antient  tumuli  or  bar* 
rows  in  the  parifli,  which,  when  opened,  are  fdund  to  con- 
Iftiln  human  bones,  in  rough  f\one  coffins.*  Pots  of  a  coarfe 
earthen  ware  are  alfb  fometimes  found  in  thefia.  Neither 
coins  nor  arms  have  as  yet  been  difcovered  in  or  ifear  them, 
to  aflifl  our  conjeAures  as  to  their  date.  In  the  mo/s  of 
Dunnichcrt  have  been  found  vsry  large  roots  of  oak  trees, 
and  fome  horns  of  the  red*  deer,  and  alio  a  ftratum  of  coarfe 
marl  bdovr  the  mdfs,  and»fix  fccr  tmder  fand.  - 


When  the  cfftote  was  begun  to  be  Impird^ed)  mmf  (rf*  t6c 
tenants^were  unable  Md 'atr«He  fd  the  modem  (yftem.  The(e 
were  getaeralfy  lefi  in  pofRffion  of  their  hdufc$<»  widi  a  fmaH 
portion  of  land|  on  a  leafe  for  their  own  life  and  that  of  their 
I  wives.  The  remainder  of  the  ground  ^as  hid  out  into  new 
farms,  and  let  to  more  enterprising  tebants. 

It  may  not  be  improper  to  explain  the  meaning  of  ibme 
words  ofed  is  this  accoimt,  which,  though  weQunderftood  at 
prefent,  will  reqnire  to  be  explained  to  after  generations,  full 
as  much  as  the  moft  barbarous  caftoms  erf  our  rader  anceftors 
require  to  be  explamed  to  us* 

Thirlagi  ♦.—When  the  proprietor  of  »  barony  or  eftatc 
tniilds  a  corn-mill  on  it,  he  obliges  all  his  tenants  to  em* 
ploy  that  mill,  and  no  other,  and  to  pay  ibmetimes  nearly 
double  what  the  com  might  be  ground  for  at  another  milL 
As  this  fervitude  tends  to  make  millers  carelefs  and  faucy,- 
it  will  without  doubt  foon  be  univerfally  aboli(hed» 

Smddy  or  Smitffs  Shop. — ^Formerly  one  blackfmith,  who 
was  aUo  a  farrier,  was  only  allowed  to  exercife  his  buflneft 
on  a  barony  or  eftate  He  had  the  exclufive  privilege  of 
doing  all  the  blackfmith  and  farrier  work.  For  this  he  paid 
a  imall  rent  to  the  proprietor,  and  every  tenant  paid  him  a 
certain  quantity  of  corn.  About  thirty  years  ago,  a  perfon 
of  this  dcfcription  had  this  fole  right  on  the  baronj  of  Dun- 
nichen,  for  which  he  paid  L.  i  yearly. 

&ri/ir//.— Thefe  arc  of  various  kinds.     On  fomc  eftatcs, 

the 

•  Seme  of  thefe  cuftoms  have  been  briefly  explained  in  differ. 
•^ent  notes  in  various  parts  of  this  volume. 


if  Dunnicbefu  4  jj 

*fhe  tenants  are  bound  to  dig,  to  diy,  and  to  fetch  home  and 
build  up,  as  much  peat  as  is  neceflaiy  for  the  proprietor's  fa- 
€l  through  the  year.  In  this  manner  the  tenants  are  em« 
ployed  during  moft  part  of  the  fummer.  It  prevents  then 
from  fallowing  and  cleaning  their  grounds,  fetching  manures 
from  a  diftance,  fowing  turnip,  &c.  Oh  other  eftates,  it  (s 
xhe  duty  of  the  tenants  to  carry  out  and  fpread  the  dung  for 
manuring  the  proprietor's  land  4n  the  feed  time,  which  fre- 
quently interferes  with  his  own  work  of  the  fame  kind.  It 
is  alfo  the  duty  of  the  tenants  to  fetch  from  the  neighbour- 
ing  fea-ports  all  the  coal  wanted  for  the  proprietor's  ufe.  The 
tenants  are  alfo  bound  to  go  a  certain  number  of  errands, 
ibmetimes  with  their  carts  and  hoHes,  and  fometimes  a<*foot, 
a  certain  number  of  long  errands,  and  a  certain  number  of 
•ifaort  ones,  are  required  to  be  performed,  A  long  errand 
is  what  requires  more  than  one  day.  This  is  called  carriage^ 
Tenants  are  alfo  expefled  to  work  at  any  of  the  proprietor'^ 
work  a  certain  npmber  of  days  in  the  year.  In  ibme  placet^ 
this  obligation,  it  is  faid,  extends  to  52  days,  or  a  day  in  the 
week. 

Bonnagi-^h  an  obligation,  on  the  part  of  the  tenant,  to  cut 
down  the  proprietor's  corn.  This  duty  he  muft  perform 
when  called  on.  It  fometimes  happens,  that,  by  cutting 
down  the  proprietor's  crop,  he  loies  the  opportunity  of  cut- 
ting down  his  own. 

This  whole  catalogue  of  cuftems  is  To  advcrfe  to  agricul- 
ture, and  to  the  true  interefts  of  the  proprietor,  that,  in  a 
-fhort  time,  their  very  names  will  probably  be  obfolete,  and 
the  nature  of  them  forgotten. 

'iThe  following  plan  of  a  navigable  canal,  not  indeed -within 
Vox.  h  3  I  *he 


434  S/sti/lml  Account 

ihc  bounds  of  the  parifli^  yet»  being  coane£ted  with  it^  01^ 
to  be  mentioned.  In  the  year  17889  Mr  Whitworth  the  en- 
gineer was  employed  to  take  a  furvey  of  the  country^  fior  the 
purpofe  of  briogiog  a  navigable  canal  firom  the  port  of  Ar- 
broath to  Forfar.  That  ^.eatleman  made  out  an  accurate  plan 
of  this  canal,  which  he  reported  to  be  highly  prafUcaUe.  It 
required  25  locks  to  conduA  it  from  Muirton  Fulling  Mill  to 
Arbroath  i  the  diftance  13  miles  1  firlong  and  2  ' chains; 
the  perpendicular  height  above  low  water-mark  196  feet. 
The  expence  he  computed  at  L.  17,78^8  :  17  :  8.  As  there 
is  no  reafon  to  believe  the  trade  on  this  canal  would  at  pre- 
fent  defray  this  expence^  the  plan  is  laid  aiide^  and  the  fur* 
veyor's  Report  is  depoGted  in  the  town-clerk's  offices  iii  For^ 
far  and  Arbroath.  This  ufeful  work  will  probably  be  refo- 
med  again  when  the  country  ihall  have  attained  more  wealdi, 
and  further  improvements.  It  would  ferve  to  convey  coali 
limei  and  wood,  into  the  center  of  a  very  populous  country 
4«ftitute  of  thefe  articles* 


WtJM- 


^f  e^mylU^  435 

NUMBER     XLIV. 
t^ARISH  OF  CARMYLIEt 

By  tie  Rev.  Mr  PATRiqit  3rtcb» 


Origin  ef  the  Name, 
^^T^  H  E  pariih  of  Carmylie  fiirni(hes  very  little  rco{)e  for 
''-  ftatiftical  inquiry.  The  origin  of  the  name  cannot 
now  be  afcertained.  In  feme  antient  records  of  the  prefbj- 
tery  it  is  called  Carmylie,  probably  from  the  high  grounds 
which  compofe  the  greateft  part  of  it :  But  this  is  merely 
conjefhiral.  Pk«irious  to  the  period  of  the  Reformatioui  the 
church  was  a  chapel,  biult  by  the  heritor  of  the  eftate  of  Car* 
mylie,  where  the  Monks  from  the  Abbey  of  Aberbrothock, 
in  its  vicinityi  performed  divine  fervice,  according  to  the  rites 
of  the  Church  of  Rome,  in  their  courfes.  It  was  erected  in- 
to a  parochial  charge,  after  the  Reformatioo,  by  the  Lords 
Commiffioners  for  Plantation  of  Kirks» 

Situation^  Extent^  and  ProduHiens.^^Tht  pariih  lifituated  in 
the  county  of  Forfiir,  prcfbytcry  of  Abcrbrothock,  and  (ynod 
of  Angus  and  Mearns.  It  is  of  an  obiong  form  }  furround* 
ed  by  the  pariflies  of  Panbride,  Guthrie,  Monikie,  Kirkdeni 
Dunnichen,  Inverkillor,  St  Vigians,  and  Arberlot.  It  is 
about  3  miles  long,  from  eaft  to  weft,  and  about  4  miles 
broad,    b  may  be  called  a  hilly  and  mountainous  tnEt  of 

ground| 


l^^  Staii/Hcal  AcMmi 

groundi   wlien  cooipared  with  the  contcrmioous   pttUfic^ 
The  land  is  wet  and  fpungy,  and  was  thought,  fame  years 
ago,  CO  be  better  adapted  for  pafture  than  for  grain.     About 
20  years  ago,  there  were  many  fiirms  in  the  pari(h  occupied 
by  farmers  in  the  neighbourhood^  who  ured  them  for  gra« 
zing  their  cattle  in  thcf  fummer  p  but,  ever  finoe  that  time^ 
the  proprietors  have  obliged  the  tenants  to  refidc  Co  them ; 
who,  by  driving  lime  and  marl  to  their  refpeCUve  hrms^  and 
by  draining  their  lands  by  funk  fences,  &c.  hate  greatly  me- 
liorated the  ground,  and  for  feveral  years  have  railed'  heavy 
crops )  which,  though  they  were  not  equal  in  quality,  yet,  in 
quantity,  were  not  inferior  to  tho(e  produced  on  the  groonds 
in  the  neighbourhood,  that  have  been  long  in  a  proper  fiate 
of  cultivation.    On  a  very  moderate  compuration^  therHs 
four  tSmcs  the  quantity  of  grain,  efpecially  of  barley,  raifed 
in  this  parifh  than  there  war  ao  years  ago; 

Rent.-^Tht  land  rent  b  fuppoied  ta  be  about  L.  looa 
Sterlii^.  It  has  rifen  about  a  third  wilhio-  tbefe  laft  20  years* 
There  ave  only  3  heritors  inthe  parifli)  none  of  whom  refidc 
in  it.' 

Church  and  Stipend^  C9V.«-Tfae  walls  of  the  church  were 
repaired  about  40  years  ago,  and  a  new  roof  was  thrown  oves 
it  laft  fummer.  It  is  decently  fitted  up  within  far  the  ac- 
commodation  of  the  congregation,  who  are  a  fober  and  io- 
duftrious  people,  and  regular  in  their  attendance  on  divine 
ordinances.  The  ftipend  amounts*  to  about  400  merks  Scors 
in  money,  and  a  little  more  than  5  chalders  of  viAuaL  The 
manfe  was  built  about  1 8  years  ago.  There  are  very  good 
funds  for  the  poor ;  and  they  are  liberally  provided  lor  with* 
out  any  afleflmeot  on  the  heritors* 

PcptJatwu 


tf  Carmyliel  iyf^ 

^({^MAifi0ff.<— The -population  of  the  parlfiit  as  returned  to 
Dr  Webfter  about  40  years  ago,  was  730  fouls.  It  has  fince 
rather  decreafed.  Some  mechanicsi  efpecially  weaversi  have 
removed  to  the  trading  boroughs  of  Dundee  and  Aberbrothocky 
where  thej  meet  with  good  encouragement  from  the  manu* 
£i£hiring  companies  in  thefe  towns.  Its  inhabitants  may  now 
amount  to  about  700.  The  number  of  burials  do  not  exceed 
15  or  18  yearly.  The  births  are  from  20  to  24  annually. 
There  are  very  few  difienters  in  the  parilh ;  not  exceeding 
ao.    There  is  only  i  brewer ;  4  perfons  retaif  ale. 

School.-^Thett  is  a- parochial  fchoolmafter  here.  His  fa- 
lary  is  100  merks  Scots ;  a  houle^  but  no  garden.  The  per* 
^uifites  belongmg  to  him  are  very  inconfiderabk.  His  whole 
income  does  not  exceed  L.  20  Sterling.  He  has  about  50 
icholars  in  winter,  and  30  in  fummer.  Much  praiTc  is  due 
tether  people  for  promoting  and  encouraging  the  education 
of  the  youth  of  both  lexes.  They  have  fubfcribed  a  certaiD 
ixasi  for  building  a  fchool<heuie-;  and  are  determhied  to  give 
every  fupport  in  their  power  to  the  perfon  who  is  to  have 
the  charge  of  inftruding  the  girit  in  the  different  biancbee 
of  needlework. 

.  £xrir,  C2fr.-->Thedortereb,  birds  of  pafTagey  alight  on  the 
rifisg  grounds  about  the  beginning  of  April,  continue  here 
about  ihfce  weeks,  remove  to  the  Grampian  Hilis,  about  I2 
miles  to  the  northward,  and  revifit  this  plrifli  about  the  be* 
ginning  of  Auguft :  After  abiding  here  about  three  weeksy. 
they  &y  off  to  the  fouthwatd,  and  are  not  (cen  till  the  ift  of 
April  fbUowing.  There  are  <|uarcies.of  grey  flate  and  pave« 
ment  ftones  here,  which  have  beik  wrought  for  fome  centu- 
ries. They  fiipply  the  neighboumpdi  and  arc  exported  to 
Fifci  Perthfhirei  the  Mearns,  ftc     ^ 

NUM. 


43<  StatiftUal  Atcamt 


NUMBER     XLV. 
t^ARISH   OF  PANBRIDE^ 

J3y  the  Riv.  Mr  Robert  Trail. 


Namtf  Situation,  Extent ,  and  Sufface. 

THERE  is  reafon  to  believe  that  this  pariih  Irat  called 
Pasbridge  about  200  yean  agO|  and  that  it  was  an 
abreviatioa  o£  Panbridget ;  the  chorch  here,  wUch  is  voy 
dd,  being  built  by  St  Bridget^  or  at  leaft  in  honour  of  her* 
An  infcription  has  been  feen  on  an  old  grave  fione,  mention- 
log  that  it  was  ereAed  in  memory  of  fuch  a  pcribn  of  tbe 
pariih  of  Panbridge.  Pan  is  probably  a  cortoptioQ  of  the 
Latin  word  fanumt  if  fo,  Panbride  fignifies  Bridget's  church. 
This  pariih  is  iituated  in  the  county  of  Forfar,  in  the  iynod 
of  Angus  and  Meams,  and  in  the  prefbytery  of  Aberbrothock. 
It  is  more  than  5  miles  long,  and  about  2  broad.  It  is  bound* 
ed  by  the  fea  on  the  ibuth  \  by  the  pariCbes  of  Barrie  and  Mo- 
nikie  on  the  weil ;  by  Carmylie  on  the  north ;  by  Arbirlote 
on  the  north'Caft ;  and  a  detached  part  of  St  Vigtans  on  the 
(buth»eail.  The  general  appearance  of  the  country  here  is 
vather  flat  than  hilly}  but  there  is  a  confiderable  declivity  foe 
ibme  miles  from  the  north  to  the  fouth  end  of  this  pariih. 
The  ihore  is  flat,  and  very  rocky. 

Pepulati^u 


jp^«£afMiv.--Dr  Wel)fter!s  ftate         •           ;  1259 

In  17659  the  Dumber  of  inljabitants  was  exafkly  1183 

In  1790           •           •           •            •           •  1460 

Annual  average  of  baptifins  from  i  762  till  1 790  .        39 

'                        of  burials  from  1767  till  179P  •          27 

>              olF  marriages           .            .  •           19 

Seceders        •            •        •        •         •            •  •        20 

Kpifcopalians          •        •          •        *        •        •  •        4 

Indcpendants            •            •            •            •  .2 

Heritors ,  ..           i 

The  number  of  baptifms  in  1790  was  55,  which  is  4  mor^ 
than  was  ever  known  here  before. 

PoQf. — ^The  number  of  poor  varies  from  8  to  10:  They 
are  all  maintained  in  their  own  houfes;  and  there  is  not  a 
beggar  in  the  parifh.  But|  befides  the  ordinary  jpoor,  ther^ 
is  a  confiderable  number  of  houfeholders  in  indigent  circum- 
fiances,  each  of  whom  get  a  boll  of  coals  from  the  fefEon 
yearly.  The  funds  bearing  intereft  do  not  much  exceed 
L.  100;  but  a  confiderable  fum  arifes  from  the  mortcloth 
and  hearfe  fees.  The  weekly  coUeftions  in  church  are  from 
5  s.  to  7  s.  or  8  s. 

Stipend. — ^The  fiipend  is  \  chalder  of  wheat,  3  chalders 
of  oatmeal|  2  chalders  of  barleyi  and  L.  30  : 5  : 6  Sterling; 
in  which  fum  is  included  L.  5  for  communion  elements.  The 
glebe  confifts  of  4  acres,  1  rood,  and  fome  fidb,  of  very  good 
land.    The  }Qng  is  patron* 

Mifaltamous  Ot/ervation/.-^Thcre  is  one  mineral  ipring  of. 
the  chalybeate  kind,  but  it  is  not  much  frequented.  There 
is  plenty  of  fea-weed  along  the  coaft  for  manuring  land ;  hut 
it  has  rarely  been  made  into  kelp.    HaddockS|  cod,  &c.  were 

wont 


'mm  SioAJHcal  Acctnmi 

wont  to  be  caught  here  \  but  for  fome  ytvs  psft  fcarcelj  any 
luddockfi  have  been  ieeo.  Every  crew  pays  5  aicrks  for  the 
privilege  of  fiililng.  The  price  of  provifioni  and  labours 
greatly  increaled.  About  27  years  ago,  beef  was  2  d.  a  poond  i 
St  is  now  3i  d.  and  4  d.  A  fowl,  which  could  then  have  been 
iKKight  for  5  d.  is  now  9  d.  or  10  d«  The  pariih  exports  ar- 
ticles of  provifion.  A  taylor's  wages  is  6  d.  a  day  and  his 
meat ;'  a  carpenters  8  d,  and  his  meat.  Some  labourers  get 
6  d.  and  others  8  d.  and  their  meat.  The  Englifli  is  the  on- 
ly language  fpoken  here.  Exduiive  of  the  large  indofores 
of  PanmurCi  the  yearly  rent  of  the  parifh  exceeds  L.  1000. 
HeAor  Boece's  anceftors,  for  feveral  generations>  were  lairds 
of  Panbride.  A  (hort  hiftory  of  the  county  of  Angus^  writ- 
ten in  elegant  Latin  by  a  Mr  Edward,  minifter  of  Murroes, 
in  the  prefbytery  of  Dundee,  containing  both  a  geographical 
defcription  of  it,  and  an  account  of  cvtrj  family  of  note^  was 
nublifhed  m  1678* 


NUM. 


$f  Lunani  )f«l 

iJV  MBEK    XLVI. 
l?ARiSH  OF  LUNAN, 

£y  tbi  JR#v.  Mr  Gowams. 


Nttfrii^  SkuaiiM^  Extent^  (S^c. 
iJT  UfTAN,  antiently  Lounan,  or  Inverloanan,  is  fo  called 
JLj  from  a  river  of  that  n^mei  near  the  mouth  of  which 
the  chiirch  Hands:  The  fource  of  the  river  is  a  qaagmire,  at 
a  fmall  village  called  Lunan-head^  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
Forfar  ;  the  Gaelic  word  Laomn  fignifying  boggy  or  marfliy 
ground.  Lunan  is  fituated  in  the  county  of  Forfar,  prcft>]^« 
tery  of  Aberbrothock|  and  fynod  of  Angus  and  Mcarns.  It 
is  nearly  a  rcAanglCi  abOiita  miles  long,  and-i  broad,  being 
one  of  the  fmalfeft  pariQies  in  the  county.  It  is  bounded  on  the 
north  by  Marytown  and  Craig  (  on  the  weft  by  Kinnell }  oa 
the  louth  by  Lunan  water,  which  divides  it  froui  InverkeiUor ; 
and  on  the  eaft  by  the  German  Ocean.  The  extent  of  (ea- 
toaft  is  about  a  mile,  being  a  portion  of  Lunan  Bay,  famous 
as  a  place  of  fafety  for  (hips  in  all  hard  gales,  except  thofe 
from  the  eaft.  The  (hore  is  fandy,  and  bounded  with  hil- 
locks overgrown  With  bent  \  but  the  adjoining  land  is  for  the 
moft  part  fteep  and  high.  The  ground  rifcs  To  rapidly  from 
the  river  towards  the  north,  that,  when  viewed  from  the 
fouth,  the  parifh  lias  the  appearance  of  being  fituated  on  the 
fide  of  a  hill }  butj  at  the  top,  it  becomes  again  flat,  and  con- 
Vol.  L  3  K  tinues 


'4#  Stitiflical  Accmmi 

tinues  (b  to  the  diftaoce  of  ieveral  miles  beyond  the  parilb. 
The  fitoation  is  at  once  pleafanty  and  adYaotageoos  for  agri- 
culture. The  higher  ground  commands  an  eatenfii^  Tiev  of 
the  country  around,  and  of  the  German  Ocean  %  and  die 
floping  ground  anfwers  well  for  draining,  which  inmuij 
places  is  much  wanted  ;  for  the  land  abounds  with  boggs  and 
fpriogSi  or  what  hufbandmen  call j^oir/x.  'the  greateft  part 
of  the  parifh  ftands  on  rock  of  meor-ftone,  commonly  calkd 
fcurdy :  It  is  of  a  dark  blue  colour,  and  of  fo  clofo  a  tcztort 
that  water  cannot  penetrate  it  i  and  the  furface  of  the  ground, 
efpecially  during  the  winter  monthsi  is  coDfcquently  verj 
loofe  and  wet.  This  rock  is  the  only  ftone  found  in  the  p»> 
riih  fit  for  building.  It  is  quarried  by  blading  with  gmk- 
powder,  by  which  it  is  broke  into  fiich  irregular  pjecesi  thai, 
unlefi  the  mafons  be  at  uncommon  pains,  walls  built  of  it  are 
not  water  tight. 

&r/,  Product^  R/nt,  b^c^—The  foil  of  the  higher  part  of 
the  parilh  is  frequently  ihallow  j  but  of  the  lower,  deep  anJ 
rich,  except  a  little  on  the  fea*(hore,  wUch  is  fandy.  Tk 
land  is  on  the  whole  feniic,  and  produces  grain  of  the  \x& 
quality.  The  rent  of  the  arable  land  is  at  prcfont  firom  9  s. 
to  158.  Sterling  an  acre,  but  will  probably  be  raifed  at  tk 
expiration  of  the  prefent  leafes,  fome  of  which  are  not  locg. 
No  value  is  put  on  wafte  or  pafture  ground.  The  valued 
rent  of  the  parifh  is  L.  1550  Scots;  th&  ftal  rent  abcMt 
L.  525  Sterling. 

There  are  eight  farnts  In  the  pariffi,  very  difFcrent  in  fir? 
and  rent ;  and  this  number  hirs  been  the  fame  beyond  thf 
memory  of  man.  Six  of  ihcfc  farms,  called  the  Earony  c: 
Lunan,  ixieafuring  790  acres,  including  196  acres  of  mcc-r, 
common  to  them  all,  belong  to  the  Earl  of  Northcfk.     At- 


'  9fLunan.  443- 

ttikle,  xneaforing  400  acres,  inclading  i8c  acres  of  moor,  or 
coarfe  pafture,  belongs  to  Robert  Stephen^  Efq;  of  Letham. 
XunaOy  meafuring  215  acresi  including  62  acres  of  moor  and 
wade  ground,  belongs  to  Alexander  Taylor  Imray  of  Lunan. 
Ilie  whole  pari(h,  accordingly,  when  the  glebe  is  taken  into 
the  account,  confifts  of  973  acres  arable,  and  438  wafte  land. 
Of  thefe,  40  acres  annually  bear  wheat,  187  barley,  270  oats, 
45  turnip  or  cabbage,  10  potatoes  or  yams,  16  flax,  40  peafe, 
324  ibwn  grafs,  and  40  lie  fallow.  Some  tenants  have  made 
attempts  to  indole  part  of  their  farnos  with  fences  of  earth 
topped  with  furze  \  but  few  of  them  are  fo  complete  as  to 
anfwer  the  purpofes  of  a  fence*  The  farmers  appear  fully 
fenfible  of  the  advantages  of  incloTures }  and  moft  of  thbm 
fai  the  neighbourhood  have  begun  to*  incloie  with  ftone^ 
walls ;  a  practice  which  would  be  generally  adopted,  were  it 
not  for  the  difficulty  in  fome  places  of  getting  ftones,  and 
the  (hortnefi  of  many  leafes.  The  parifli  does  much  more 
than  fupply  itfelf  wit^  provifions ;  more  than  one  half  of 
the  produce  being  annually  carried  to  market,  to  which  there 
is  eafy  acccfs  by  the  high  road.  This  road,  and  the  bridges 
on  it,  werexhiefly  made,  and  have  been  hftherto  wholly  kept 
in  repair,  by  the  ftatute  labour,  whi^h  was  fometimes  eza£led 
in  kind,  and  fometimes  commuted ;  but,  by  an  aA  of  parlia^ 
mentpafled  1790,  it  was  made  turnpike,  which  farmers  at 
prefent  confider  as  a  very  great  grievance.  The  feafon  for 
Towing  wheat  is  OAober ;  oats  from  the  middle  of  March  to 
the  middle  of  April  \  barley  in  May ;  and  turnip  in  June» 
Hay  and  harveft  time  generally  continue  from  July  to  Sepe 
tember.  There  are  in  the  pariih  250  black  cattle,  62  bodes, 
21  carts,  and  16  ploughs,  drawn  ufually  by  4  horfes  or  4 
oxen,  except  in  the  feed  time,  when  2  horfes  only  are  ufed ; 
and  then  the  number  of  ploughs  are  about  a  third  more, 

Pricei 


444  StatiJlifalJamii. 

Prki  •/  Pr^wfimst  Latmr^  Sinmnft  JFag^,   Isfc^ — Vt9^ 
fioDS  have  rifeo  in  price  fince  tlic  coinnieoceiiietit  of  the  pre- 
fent  century  at  leaft  two-thirds,  and  in  ibme  inftanycs  more. 
Botcher  meat  is  at  prefent  from  3  d«  to  4  d.  a  ppiwd  \  chk« 
kens  3  d.  a  pieces  hens  and  ducks  1  s.  1  butter  pd.  aad  checfe 
3  d.  a  pound.    The  wages  of  a  mafon  are  is.  8  d*  a  day  \ 
of  a  carpenter  IS,  4  d.;  of  ataylor  is.|  or  <}d.  with  Yidnab; 
of  a  day  labourer  in  hufliandry  i  s.    The  wages  far  harreft- 
work  of  a  man  are  from  L.  i  :5:otoL.  i  :io:o;ofa  wo- 
jnao  from  18  s.to  ao  s.     The  yearly  wages  of  a  male  ferranc 
are  fit>m  L.  6  to  L.  8 }  of  a  female  ieryant  L.  3.     Servants 
wages  are  nearly  trippied  within  thefe  laft  50  years.    Far* 
jners  prefer  men  fervaots  who  are  unmarried  to  cottageni 
chiefly  becaufe  they  are  always  at  hand,  while  the  cottagers 
go  to  their  own  houles  after  the  ftated  hours  of  labour.  Cot* 
tagers,  however,  are  preferred  for  harveft-ivork^  as  they  d^ 
pot  require  lodging,  which  \i  WQuld  be  difficult  tafiad  fat 
fo  many  as  are  wanted  at  that  feaibo.     When  a  cottagfcr  is 
employed  through  the  whole  year,  which  is  done  in  a  few 
inftances,  he  is  allowed  a  houie  and  yard,  with  about  L»  6  of 
^ages.    Some  est  in  the  farmer's  houfe  (  and  others  are  al* 
lowed,  in  nafne  of  maintenance,  6  J  bolls,  or  52  ftqnes  of  oat* 
sneal,  with  pafture  for  a  cow}  but,  in  the  latter  caie,  the  wa- 
ges leldom  exceed  L  5,  or  L«  5  :  10  :  o  at  moit.     By  the 
wages  he  receives,  with  the  produce  of  h»  wife's  indufby, 
arifing  chiefly  from  fpinnjng,  he  is  enabled  to  live  pretty 
comfortably,  to  bring  up  three  or  four  children,  and  to  give 
them  an  education  fuitable  to  their  ftation.     It  is  evident, 
indeed,  that  doing  this  with  an  income  of  about  I^  iq 
niuft  require  good  economy ;  but,  unlefs  it  be  wanting,  there 
are  no  cottagers  in  ftraitened  circumfiances.    Their  ordinary 
|bod  confifts  of  meal,  partly  of  oats,  partly  of  barley,  potatoes, 
and  milk.    A  family  of  few  perfonS|  viz.  a  wife  and  four 

(hildreoi 


.    ^  Lufunu  444^ 

ldU3dren»  tke  hiiilMUi4  eating  at  bis  mafter*s  taUc^  vill  con- 
fiime  6  bolls  of  oat-meal,  valine  L«  4 ;  4  bolls  of  Darley-meaL 
valae  L,  i  :  16  :  o ;  and  3  bolU  of  potatoes,  value  10  s,  6  <L 
There  remains  at^ut  L.  3  :  15  :  o^  whiqb  is  j^enerally  found 
adequate  to  all  the  other  neceflaries  of  luch  a  fiimily. 

P^ubxtm. — From  comparing  the  prefcnt  nucpber  of  inha« 
bited  houie9  and  of  baptiffaiSj  with  thofe  of  any  particular 
pc;riod  of  the  prefent  century,  it  does  not  appear  that  the  pa« 
xiih  has  fuifered  any  material  altieration  in  population,  (f 
jthere  be  any  difference  at  all,  it  feems  rather  to  have  increa- 
lied  in  a  fmall  degree.  The  pefent  amount  of  its  population 
is  2^1  \  of  thefe  136  are  females,  and  155  males;  among 
whom  are  4^6  married  or  widowers,  and  26  marriageable 
hatchelm.  There  are  46  fouls  under  10  years  of  age,  74 
from  10  to  20,  ilk  from  20  to  50,  51  from  50  to  7* ;  and 
dfroip  70  to  100.  The  annual  average  of  births,  for  50 
jrears  backwards,  is  about  j^,  being  in  proportion  to  the  whole 
population  as  i  to  32,  of  marriages  3,  and  of  deaths  4.  i^ 
JFarmer's  bmily,  at  an  s^verage,  confifts  of  19  perfons.  There 
are  in  the  pari (h  13  weavers,  i  carpenter,  i  blackfmith,  i 
ihoemaker,  and  4  apprentices.  1  he  number  of  fervants  iz| 
^e  pari(h  is  68  ;  of  people  born  in  other  pariflies  there  are 
276 ;  and  it  is  remarkable  that  there  is  but  i  &rmer,  and  % 
very  few  other  houfeholden,  who  were  born  ai^d  now  refide 
in  the  parifh.  The  number  of  children  for  each  marriage  is. 
at  an  average,  about  4,  All  the  inhabitants,  except  one  fe« 
male  fervant,  who  has  only  a  temporary  refidence  in  the  pa« 
I'ifh,  are  of  the  eftabliflied  church* 

i 

Church, — ^The  value  of  the  minifter's  living,  including  the 
glebei  at  a  moderate  converfion  of  what  is  paid  in  viAual,  if 
about  ^8  guineas*    The  patronage  of  the  pariih  belonged  td 

•.•'■■■    ■•  .  ■   ^  ^ 


446  Statifiical  Acewni 

the  Earl  of  Panmure^  and  fell  to  the  crown  by  forfeiture  In' 
1715  i  but  the  reprefentative  of  that  family  is  ftill  titular  of 
the  tpinds.  From  that  periods  to  17811  the  right  of  prefent- 
ing  to  the  church  Jay  dormant,  government  being  either  ig- 
norant of  the  forfeiture,  or  not  careful  enough  to  claim  the 
patf  on^ge.  The  prefent  incumbenti  who  is  married,  was  ad* 
mitted  minifter  of  Luuan  in  April  1 790.  Mr  Walt^  ftClI, 
or,  as  he  is  called  by  fome  hiftorians,  Sir  Wdter  AfiU,  a  Po- 
pifli  prieft,  held  the  office  of  pa{H)r  of  Luna^  20  years  ;  bat^ 
afterwards  embracing  the  do^ines  of  the  Reformed,  be  was 
forced  to  abandon  his  charge.  He  was  apprehended  in  the 
town  of  Dyfart  by  order  of  Cardinal  Beaton,  carried  to  St 
Andrew's,  tried,  condemned,  and  burnt,  at  the  age  of  8a,  in 
April  1558.  One  of  the  minifters,  Mr  Alei^dj^  Pedie, 
who  died  in  1 7 13,  bequeathed  fom^  plate  for  the  Lord's 
Supper  in  the  church  of  *  Lupan,  01^  this  Angular  condition, 
that  any  Epifcopal  congregation  within  feven  miles  of  Lunan 
requiring  them  (hpuld  have  the  ufe  of  them  for  that  purpoie. 
There  is  a  marble  monument  erected  in  the  church  to  his 
;nemory,  for  upholding  which  his  widow  bequeathed  an  an- 
fiuity  of  L.  4  Scotch,  payable  to  the  kirk-fclHon.  The  church 
is  an  old  edifice,  repaired  in  I773«  The  manfe  and  office^ 
were  built  in  1783,  and  ftand  nearly  a  mile  north  of  thQ 
(hurch. 

Poor. — The  poor  in  the  parifli  pf  Lunan  have  been  always 
well  fupplied.  They  have  never  been  numerous,  which  has 
occafioned  the  fun Js  to  be  uncommonly  large,  ^^Gdes  tl^p 
weekly  collections,  there  is  a  caj:ital  of  L.  500,  for  the  main- 
tenance of  the  poor,  and  other  purpofes  to  which  parifh 
funds  are  ufually  applied.  The  number  on  the  poor's  roU 
lias  been  generally  fi^om  foHrtq  Hx  ;  but,  koxxx  178^  to  i^pOji 
(I^cre  were  eight  1  and  confequently,  during  that  period,  the 

di& 


difborTements  of  the  fd&on  were  mtich  about  equal  to  the 
whoU  income.  I'iie  dearth^  at  the  commencement  of  thit 
period,  was  certainly  the  caufe  of  the  additional  number  \  for 
they  are  again  reduced  to  fiX|  who  receive  from  3  s.  to  4  s.  6  d. 
a  month,  with  a  fmall  fum  annually  for  purchaling  fuel.  As 
no  heritor,  nor  any  perfon  of  fupei^ior  rank,  reiides  in  the ' 
pariih,  and  the  cobgregaiion  is  fritall,  the  weekly  coUe^liond^ 
which  are  only  from  one  to  two  fliilliogs,  would  not  be  near. 
ly  adequate  to  the  wants  bf  the  poor,  were  it  not  for  the  an« 
nml  rent  arifing  from  the  accumulated  ftock.  The  origia 
of  this  capital  appears  to  have  been  legacies  left  long  agd  for 
the  behoof  of  the  poor. 

&r^/.— David  Jamefon,  formerly  a  farmer  in  the  parifh, 
left  2000  merks  Scots,  half  of  the  intered  of  which  was  for 
the  poor,  and  the  other  half  was  made  payable  to  the  fchooU 
inafter  for  teaching  fix  poor  fcholars.  Till  lately,  this  was 
all  the  fchoolmafter  enjoyed ;  but,  by  decreet  of  the  com- 
iniilioners  of  fupply,  the  heritors  are  now  burdened  with  the 
payment  of  200  merks  Scots  of  yearly  falary.  This,  with 
the  iaiary,  and  ufual  emoluxiients  beronging  to  the  offices  bf 
fellion-clerk  and  precentOr,  and  fees  for  teaching  from  30  to 
40  fcholars,  makes  a  living  of  abdiit  L.  25  Sterling, 

Mifiellamous  Oi/ervationi. -^The  Englifli,  or  that  dlale£l  of 
it  peculiar  to  North  Britain,  is  the  only  language  uf'ed  or 
known  by  the  inhabitants  of  Lunan.  Many  places  in  the  pa^ 
fifli,  it  is  probable,  owe  their  names  to  their  being  firuated  in 
the  neighbourhood  of  Rcdcadle,  now  a  ruin,  in  the  pariih 
of  Inverkeillor,  and  formerly  a  royal  refidence*  Henee. 
Gourthill,  where  the  courts  of  jufiice  had  been  held ;  Hawk- 
hill,  where  the  King's  faulconer  had  refided ;  and  Cothill, 
trhere'the  ihepherd,  i(  is  likely,  had  his  habitation  and  cots 

for 


'448  ^toHJHsd  AecHaA 

far  his  flock.  The  names  of  ibxne  places  are  evidentlj  6tn^ 
ktA  from  the  Gaelic,  as  the  name  of  the  pariih,  and  Dtmtnrt- 
het  (called  alfo  Drumbartnet)  from  Dun  a  lull,  which  is  fo  na^ 
med  from  being  fituaied  on  an  eminence.  There  is  a  falmoa 
fiihery  at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  biit  it  has  been  Very  un- 
produftive  for  feveral  years  paft,  yielding  nothing  but  trout; 
with  which  the  river  formerly  abounded.  Th^  aire  now 
inuch  defirofed  by  the  fteeping  of  flax,  large  quantities  of 
which  have  of  late  years  been  raifed  in  the  difiri^  It  is  not 
Improbable  but  this  operates  alio  as  a  callfe  of  the  faimon 
having  defefted  the  bay,  where  they  were  (bmttimes  caught 
in  great  plenty.  The  fiflieiy  is  ahnexed  to  the  htm  of  Lo- 
nan,  and  no  particular  rent  fpecified  for  it;  Befides  the  fi^ 
ted  rent,  tenants,  in  fbme  inftancb,  are  bound  to  give  their 
landlords,  in  the  fumn^er,  one  draught  of  their  carts }  their 
fervants  a  day  in  the  hay-harveft ;  and  their  reapers  a  day  id 
iiutumn.  The  difficulty  of  getting  people  to  hire  at  a  time 
when  all  are  bufy,  is  the  reafoh  affigned  for  continuing  to 
eia£t  the  two  laft.  Tenants  require  like  fervices  of  their 
fiibtehants ;  but  they  are  always  limited  to  a  certain  number 
of  days,  and  fcldom  exceed  three  or  four  yearly.  Tenants  in 
general  complain  more  of  being  obliged  to  grind  their  com 
at  fome  particular  mill,  and  pay  high  ftipulated  multures,  a 
cuftom  which  prevails  almoft  univerlally  in  North  Britain^ 
than  of  thefe  trivial  fervices,  which  are  feldom  ezaftcd  fo  ri« 
goroufly  as  to  make  them  diftrcffidg.  The  fuel  commonly 
nfcd  in  fummer  is  turf,  or  broom,  valued  from  x  s.  to  2  s.  a 
cart  load,  of  which  there  is  plenty  in  the  pahfli ;  and,  in 
winter,  coals,  70  ftonc  of  which,  called  a  boll,  coft  6  s.  at 
Arbroath,  where  no  duty  is  exaAed. 


NUM. 


9f  Auchterderran.  449 

NUMBER     XLVII. 

PARISH  OF  AUCHTERDERRAN. 

Bj  the  Rev.  Mr  Andrew  Murrat, 


Name^  Situatian^  Extent,  Soil,  and  Surface. 

THE  name  of  the  parifli,  as  well  as  many  places  in  it.  Is 
faid  to  be  derived  from  the  Gaelic.  This  parifh  is  {!• 
tuated  in  the  county  of  Fife,  prc&ytery  of  Kirkcaldy,  and  fy* 
nod  of  Fife.  It  is  of  an  irregular  form,  about  4  miles  long, 
and  3  broad.  Jt  is  bounded  by  Auchterrool  on  the  fouth, 
Abotflial  on  the  fouth-caft,  Dyfart  on  the  caft  and  north, 
Kinglaffic  and  Portmcak  on  the  north,  and  Ballingry  on  the 
weft.  A  great  part,  if  not  the  whole,  of  the  fields  are  upon 
coal.  Where  the  ftratum  connefted  with  the  coal  comes  near 
the  furfacc,  the  ground  is  barren  j  and,  even  where  this  is  not 
the  cafe,  it  is  not  retnarjcably  fertile.  It  is  moill  througliout. 
Part  of  the  foil  is  clay,  and  part  black  earth.  The  vaik'y  in 
which  this  parilh  lies  is  bounacd  on  the  fouth  and  call  by  a 
ridge  of  ground,  and  on  the  weft  by  a  fimilar  ridge.  Though 
the  height  of  the  ground  excludes  the  view  of  the  Firth  of 
Forth,  yet  the  higheft  part  of  it,  which  can  fcarccly  be  called 
a  hill,  is  under  tillage.  There  are  many  little  inequ:iHties  in 
the  fields,  io  that  they  appear  rather  broken  and  disjointed. 
The  fame  is  the  cafe  with  a  great  part  of  Fife.  There  are 
fonic  rocks  of  a  Angular  appearance.  What  ftrikes  the  eye 
Vol-.  I.  .3  L  mo(\ 


45*  Stati/lical  Account 

mod  is  a  number  of  detached  pillars  ftanding  perpendicQlar- 
]y  on  the  bale  of  the  rock|  and  feparated  both  at  the  fides 
and  behind  from  the  general  mafs.  They  are  of  a  regular 
figure,  rcfeinbling  the  trunk  of  a  large  tree.  The  rifing 
grounds  are  all  green,  but  rather  of  a  dulky  tinge,  as  i 
the  plant  did  not  delight  in  its  fituation. 

Agt  icukure^  is^c. — About  a  fifth  of  the  ground  in  the  parifli  xs 
employed  m  raifing  cotHi  roots,  &c.  There  »  very  little  wheat 
Oats,  barley,  and  peafe,  are  the  common  grains.  Green  crops 
of  pdfatoes^  turnips,  and  cabbages,  are  introduced  ;  but,  ex* 
cept  potatoes,  they  are  not  iq  any  great  quantity.  The  fowicg 
of  oats  is  begun  about  the  ift  of  March,  and  finiihed  aboat 
the  aoth  of  April.  The  fowing  of  barley  is  begun  about  die 
2cth  of  April,  and  finifhed  about  the  20th  of  Maj.  The 
harveft,  in  a  good  leafon,  begins*  about  the  ift  of  September, 
and  ends  about  the  middle  of  October.  In  a  bad  feafon,  it 
continues  till  the  beginning  of  November.  The  pafture,  in- 
cluding fown  grafs,  comprehends  4*fifths  of  the  parifli. 
There  are  5 1  ploughs,  1 7  of  which  are  drawn  by  horfes 
only  \  and  black  cattle  are  ufed  in  the  reft.  Small's  new 
plough  Is  introduced  here.  There  is  generally  a  cart  to  ere- 
ry  ploughs  and  about  18  more  employed  in  leading  coal,  &c 
They  are  all  two-horfe  carts.  The  beft  arable  ground  taken 
through  a  whole  farm  does  not  exceed  20  s.  an  acre  wbea 
indofed  \  and  the  fame  farm  will  let  for  as  much  on  the  fame 
leaie  when  in  grafs  and  pafture.  The  poorer  farms  are  let  at  S 
or  10  s.  an  acre  when  indofed.  The  rent  of  one- half  of  the 
fartns  is  from  L.  I  o  to  L.  20.  There  are  fix  whofe  rent  at  pre- 
fent  is  about  L.  30  each,  which,  at  the  expiration  of  the  olJ 
leafe,  will  let  at  L.  ico.  Only  five  are  let  at  L.ioo  at  prcfent. 
The  land-rent  of  the  parifh  is  about  L.  2000  Sterling  ^r  an* 
jium.    The  number  of  farms  rather  diminifhesj  which  is 

partly 


tf  Aucbterderran.  45 1 

partly  owing  to  life-rents  and  feus*   They  are,  in  generali  in- 
dofed  ;  and  the  ground  is  fo  much  more  fuited  to  grafs  than 
corn,  that  the  moft  of  the  remainder  of  the  arable  land  will 
be   ibon  converted  into  grafs.     The  people  and  proprietors 
are  fufBciently  convinced  of  the  benefits  of  inclofing.     Inclo- 
iing  has  bani(hed  (heep  from  the  neighbourhood  ;  for  (heep 
cannot  be  confined  within  the  fame  ioclofures  as  black  cattle. 
On  one  large  farm  there  are  rows  of  hedges  and  drips  of  plant- 
ing throughout,  which  is  a  complete  fence  ;  and  this  mode  of 
indofing  adds  to  the  beauty  of  the  country ;  and  the  plantations 
thrive.    But  the  cheapefl,  the  roofl  valuable,  the  moft  ipeedi- 
ly   raifed,  the  meft  lading,  and  moft  general  fence,  is  the 
Galloway  dike.     The  ftones  are  either  found  on  the  Surface, 
or  got  from  quarries  in  the  neighbourhood.     A  field  of  16 
acres  may  be  inclofed  for  L.  20  i  and  the  money  is  gicneraliy 
repaid  in  additional  rent  in  4  years.     Fallow  is  not  lb  ge- 
neral as  in  a  more  advanced  ftate  of  hufbandry.     Of  lace,  tho 
arable  lands  are  fcarcely  ever  left  in  grafs  without  iowmg  ar-  , 
tificial  graflcs  in  them.     The  farmers  pay  their  rents  chiefly 
by  raifing  and  feeding  a  great  number  of  black  cattle,   by 
which  the  circumjacent  markets  of  Duniermline^  Kin^liorO| 
Dylart,  &c.  ^re  fupplied.     Agriculture  has  advanced  greatly 
within  thcfc  lew  years  j  and  the  face  of  the  country  begins 
to  change  rapidly^     The  rife  of  rents  has  contributed  to  the 
progrefs  of  agriculture,  by  promoting  additional  induftry,  and 
calling  forth  enertion.     i  he  rents  are  all  paid  in  money,  ex- 
cept a  few.  poultry  to  the  proprietors,  and  50  bolls  of  grain 
to  the  mioifter.    Winter  provender  is  fcarce  and  dear,  owing 
to  the  number  of  cattle  ;  but  the  farmers  are  beginning  to 
provide  ftacks  of  hay  from  their  fown  fields^  which  will  prove 
the  beft  remedy  for  the  evil.     Good  hay,  at  an  average,  fells 
from  3|.  d.  to  4d.  a  ftone.     The  pnnlli  <locs  more  than  Tup- 
ply  ilfelf  with  provifions.     It  exports  particularly  livc-ctrlei 

buttef^ 


45  2  Sfattftkal  Aeiount 

butter,  chccfc,  and  poultry.  It  imports  rather  more  wbeat 
bread  than  could  be  made  of  the  wheat  that  grows  In  it.  It 
ralfes  oats  nearly  equal  to  the  conPumption  of  oat-meal.  No  re- 
markable hardfhip  was  fufiercd  here  from  thefcafon  of  1782, 
although  the  harvefl  did  not  yield  above  4  months  proTi- 
fions.  The  late  Baron  Stewart  Moncrieff  remitted  rents  to 
his  tenants.  The  patron  of  the  pariOi,  with  a  well  timed  be* 
nevolcnce,  direfted  the  grain  of  the  vacant  ftipend  to  be 
fold  at  a  cheap  rate  among  the  poor.  The  com  is  ground 
by  water-mills  ;  but  the  rude  cuftom  of  thirlage  flill  remains 
on  fome  edates.  Landed  property  in  Fife  changes  niore  than 
in  any  other  county  in  North  Britain^  and  the  land  (old  of 
late  in  this  neighbourhood  has  generally  been  about  35  years 
purcbafe.     Leafes  of  forms  are  in  general  for  19  years* 

Rcads^ — The  roads  hitherto  made  were  done  by  ftatote-Ia- 
bour,  but  are  very  indifierent.  The  ftatute^laboor  is  of  late 
partly  commuted  ;  atkd  turnpike  roads  are  making.  Cue  of 
them  is  to  pafs  through  this  parifh»  leaving  the  great  road 
between  Kirkcaldy  and  Cupar  of  Fife  at  the  Inn  called  the 
Platftereri.  It  takes  a  weftern  dh-eftion,  through  the  parifhes 
of  Lellie,  Kingtafliei  and  Auchterderran,  and  lands  the  paf- 
fcngers  on  the  Qnceiwferry  road  at  the  kirk  of  Btathe. 
This  line  of  road  is  already  in  ufe  in  the  fummer  months  ^ 
but  a  free  cotbmanication  through  this  inland  diftrid  would 
be  highly  advantageous.  The  general  opinion  of  the  com- 
mon people  IS  not  againft  turnpikes.  This  pahfli  has  hi* 
therto  been  diftinguifhed  for  bad  roads,  and  is  tnaccefibte  on 
the  north  for  6  montrhs  in  tl)e  year.  Hence  the  farmers  on 
the  oppofite  fide  muf^  (ell  their  commodities  at  an  imder 
rate,  being  (hut  out  from  the  coaft  towns. 

Popuhiion.^^The  number  of  inhabitants,  accordif^g  to  Dr 
Webfter's  (late,  is  1 194  ^  at  prefcnt  they  are  1200. 

'  InhaUtcd 


i/*  jtuchierderrM.  j|  5  j 

Inhabited  hotifes  •  •    •      >•  4  29I 


I 


Eftablifticd  miniftcr 

Burgher  ditto             .               •             •             •             •  t 

In  1783  the  families  of  the  eftal>li(hed  church         •  io< 

■  "■  *■  Individuals  belonging  to  It             '.  -          ,  ^^^ 

' '    '  Families  of  feccdcrs,  and  other  fciftarics        •  j$$ 

—  Individuak  behnrgfng'to  them*         -  v  ^     •.  yy© 

Heritors,  bciides  feuers,  (only  one  refides  in  the  parifh)  12 

People  in  their  famfiiesi  locluding  themfelves    .  , »    .  ^22 

Farmeni              •"..,•              i*   ,          •             •  aj 

Families  of  colliers  nearly             •...:•.       •  31 

Cottagers  houfes  buik-  wUbin  thefe  i  o  years            •  ij 

Houics  become  uninhabitabie            *            •            .  j 

There  is  i  village  called  Lochgclliej  cont^ning  342  peo- 
ple. 

p^^r. — There  are  no  poor  belonging  to  ihh  parilb  that  are 
*agrant.  The  poor  arc  fupplied  in  their  uTual  refidcnces. 
Pride  prevents  our  poor  common  people  from  making  them* 
felves  burdenfome  to  the  public,  which  in  general  they 
never  do  but  from  necefBty.  The  number  of  poor  in  the 
monthly  lift  at  prcfent  is  22  There  are  about  L.  600  left 
in  legacies,  &c.  in  the  management  of  the  fcf&on ;  the  in- 
tereft  of  which,  with  the  colleAions,  is  applied  to  the  fup« 
port  of  the  poor,  i  heir  fituation  is  mnch  better  than  that 
of  the  poor  in  many  of  the  neighbouring  parifhes,  i  he  kirk- 
fcffion  give  their  fcrvices  gratis^  (as  every  where  in  Scotland}^ 
and  arc  from  their  (ituation  well  qualified  for  pointing  out 
the  p'  oper  objefts  of  charity. .  The  weekly  contributions  for . 
the  poor  does  not  exceed  2  s. 

Provijions'and  Cabour  — There  is  no  weekly  market  in  the 
pariib.    Kirkcaldy  is  the  chief  market.      Beef,  the  long 

weight, 


454  Sta/lfiical  Account 

weight,  at  a^  avenge,  is  4  j  d.  a  pound ;  a  hen  i  f.  ;  a  dozei 
eggs  4  d.  A  day-labcmrer  not  retained  geu  i  s.  a  day.  When 
protnifed  work  from  one  peribo,  at  one  place,  throoghoot  the 
year,  he  gets  1 1  d.  ;  but  this  is  not  general,  and  is  thought 
the  better  bargain  for  the  laboorer.  The  average  prices  of  ar« 
tificers  work  differs  according  to  their  trade  %  fome  get 
IS.  3 d. ^  fome  1  s. 6 d.  fome  is*  8 d. a  day. 

Annual  eammgs  oF  a  dfy-fabonrer,  his  wife^  and  three 
children  \  dedufiing  four  weeks  earnings  of  the  man  on  ac« 
count  of  holidays,  bad  healthy  attenda&ce  on  funerals,  &c. 
and  cxceffive  bad  weather  1  and  four  weeks  earnings  of  the 
woman,  on  accoonc  of  holidays,  bad  healih,  and  lying-in* 

To  48  weeks  labour  of  a  man  at  i  s.  a  day        L.  14     8    • 
To  48  weeks  labour  of  a  woman,  in  ipianing, 
befides  taking  care  of  her  houfe  and  chil- 
dren «  •  .  .  312# 
To  the  earnings  of  3  children  at  the  age  of  fix, 
^  feven,  and  eight  years,  nothing. 

L.  18     00 

Annual  ezpence  of  a  day-labourer,  his  wife,  and  three 
children. 


By  2  pecks  oat-meal  a  week,  at  1 1 J  d.  per  peck  L.  4  ip    « 
By  2  pecks  barley  or  pcafe-mcal  a  week,  at 

7jd.  apcck  .  .  .  350 

By  6  bolls  potatoes,  at  5  s.  a  boll        ^         ,  x   10    0 

By  barley  for  k.  .1,  at  3  lb.  a  week         .  ,         o  16    3 

By  a  kail- yard,  and  a  wretched  houfe        .        .      o  13    e 


$f  Aucbterderran  455 

By  milk,  at  4  d.  a  week            •            ,  L.  o  1 7    4 

By  fait,  cheefe,  and  butter        «         •  •         •0126 

By  foap  for  wafliing  clothes             •  ,            026 

By  coals  in  a  year,  with  carriage         .  .        .  ~  i     o     o 

By  fliocs  to  the  whole  family        •         .  .          x     o    o 

By  body-clothes  to  the  man         •         •  ,             i    10     o 
By  ditto  to  the  woman  and  children         •         •         150 

By  worfted  thread  for  mendings         •  .        .070 


L.  i^  18    3 

The  preceding  ftatement  is  favourable  for  earnings,  from 
the  number  of  children,  which  is  rather  imall  ^  and  particu- 
larly on  account  of  the  ages  of  the  children,  a^  at  that  pe- 
riod of  their  lives  it  is  fuppofed  in  the  calc:  Jation  that  the 
woman  has  it  in  her  power  to  work  half  work  at  fpinning,  and^ 
yet  take  care  of  herhoufe  and  children.  The  day-- labourer 
of  this  diftriA,  and  bis  family,  are  more  decently  clothed 
than  a  family  of  the  fame  defcription  in  England,  and  tiicre- 
fore  it  is  fomewhat  more  particularly  (laced  than  in  the  1  rint- 
cd  ExtraA  accompanying  the  Queries,  The  fuel  is  alfo  higher 
charged.  They  are  obliged  to  ufe  coals,  a  much  finer  fuel  than 
that  mentioned  in  the  ExtraA,  and,  at  the  lowed,  it  amounts 
to  the  cxpence  above  mentioned  j  but  it  ferves  them  for 
light,  as  well  as  heat,  in  the  winter  feafon.  The  greatei't  e- 
'vils  of  their  iituation  arife  from  the  lownefs  of  their  diet,  and 
the  wretchednefs  of  their  lodging,  which  is  cold,  dark,  and 
dirty  ;  expoiing  them  to  a  numerous  clafs  of  diicaics  incident 
to  fuch  a  condition.  The  meagre  food  of  the  labouring  man, 
too,  is  unequal  to  oppofe  the  effedls  of  incciTant  hard  labour 
upon  his  conftltution,  and,  by  this  n  cans,  hi<  frame  is  often 
worn  down  before  the  time  of  Nature's  appointment. 

That 


45^  Statiflleal  Jccwni 

That  people  continitc  to  enter  volantarHy  opan  (uch  a  Iwrd 
fitiiation,  (hows  how  far  the  union  of  the  fcxes,  and  the  love 
of  independence,  are  principles  of  huii an  natun: ;  and,  from 
fuch  caufes,  this  fitu^tion  is  not  thought,  by  the  people  them- 
felves^  to  be  wretched,  nor  without  fome  (hare  of  connfon. 
Within  thefe  laft  twelve  years,  the  wages  of  a  man  have  rxfea 
from  8d.  to  I  s.  without  a  proportional  rife  upon  his  ex- 
pence.     When  this  elafs  of  people  have  got  fuch  additiooal 
wages  as  will  enable  them  to  have  better  lodgmg^  and  to  hare 
that  quantity  of  animal  and  other  foods,  which  their  labour 
and  the  climate  require,  they   will  then  have  nearly  their 
Iharc  of  human  enjoyment     About  the  year  175  J,  the  yearly 
wages  of  a  doroeftic  man  fervant  was  L.  28  Scots,  of  a  wo- 
man fervnnt  L.   16  Scots.      The  wages  of  fervants,   whea 
maintained  by  the  employer,  in  different  branches  of  huf- 
bandry,  is  now  L.  3  Sterling  a  year  for  a  woman,  and  L  6  a 
year  for  a  man       1  he  wa^es  of  domeftic  fervants  is  the  fame. 
Work,  people  are  rather  fcircc,  owing  to  the  drain  of  wars, 
and  the  increafing  induiiry  of  the  country. 

General  Chnracler  of  the  People. — The  inhabitants  arc  very 
regular  in  tlicir  attendance  on  public  wor(hip  Formerly 
they  were  fond  of  long  church  ferviccs,  and  confidcred  it  as  a 
point  of  duty  to  continue  long  ^n  rtligious  exercifes.  Perhaps 
the  lerviccs,  though  fliortcr  than  before,  are  ftill  too  long  for 
aniwcring  the  ends  of  devotion  and  (pintual  edification.  'I  he 
people  arc  not  illiterate.  In  common  with  the  reft  of  Scotland, 
the  vulgar  arc,  for  their  fi^ation,  literate,  perhaps,  beyond  all 
other  nations.  Puritanic  and  abftrufe  divinity  come  in  for  a 
fufficient  iliare  in  their  little  ftock  of  books  \  and  it  is  per- 
haps peculiar  to  them,  as  a  people,  that  they  endeavour  to 
farm  opinions,  by  re.uling,  as  well  as  by  frequent  converfa- 
tion,  on  fomc  very  mctaphyfical  points  connefled  with  reli- 
gion, 


t 
^  Akcbtenhrr/tp.  ^^ 

ly  and  on  the  deeper  do£Mnes  of  Chrlfthuiitf.    Thef 
likewife  read,  occaiionally,  a  Tariety  of  other  books  uncoa- 
neAod  with  fuch  fubjeiEts.    The  parochiBl  fchools  are  by  no 
means  fuppUed  with  fuch  enlightened  teachers  as  thofe  that 
^vereibraierly  infiranienial  ia  diffufing  this  knowledge.    No 
one  ef  good  edncaticm  alid  ability  now  accepts  of  this  reditu 
ced  |uttaaee»  where  the  fitnation  is  liot  fityourabk  for  procu* 
ring  lucradve  fcholars :  And  the  villi^e  teacher^  brought  in 
fay  the  fobTcription  of  needy  people^  is  a  ftill  more  nnqnali* 
fied  perfon.    In  foch  caies»  the  people  do  not  propofe  feefe^ 
iog  out  the  beft»  hnt  the  ohei^ft.    The  confeqnence  will  be* 
that  the  poorer  ^Kftrlfb  of  the  country,  and  the  poor  clafles  of 
the  people,  mnft  become  more  ignorant.    Although  the  pa* 
rifli  confifls  wholly  of  the  poorer  ranks  of  fociety,  newfp^pers 
are  very  generally  read  and  attended  to  t  The  defire  for  them 
increafesf  and  the  teadiag  of  them  feems  to  be  attended  with 
advantage.    With  regard  to  the  inteUeOoal  character  of  the 
pe^le :  They  are  deficient  in  tmiigiBatioB,  viyacityi  humoort 
&C. ;  their  apprehenfion  and  judgment  are  very  good,  and 
they  make  a  decent  figure  in  the  common  profeffions  of 
life.    With  refpeft  to  their  moral  and  religious  charaAer, 
they  have  all  a  profeflion  of  rdigbn}  but,  in  the  pomts 
where  their  fituation  more  iomsediately  leads  to  temptation^ 
they  too  firequently  and  even  habitually   contradift  their 
profeffioiu    Their  civil  charaAer  is  excellent:  They  feem 
in  feme  di^gree  capable   of  refleCHng   on  the  advantages 
of  government  i  and  they  obey  it  peaceatdy*  and  on  prin- 
ciple.    They  could,  however,  be  eafily  ftirred  up  to  fe« 
dition  in  matters  of  religion.    There  is  one  Burgher  meet^ 
ing  in  this  parilh.    The  rdi^pus  toleration  granted  feeme 
to  anfwer,  in  this  diftriAy  the  full  ends  of  good  govern^ 
meat  and  public  utility :    It  couUl  hardly  ftand  on  a  bet« 
ter  footing.    Secefliaa  now  begins  to  dimmiihi  and  the 
VajLtL  3  M  btttemels 


45^^  St^HjUat  AewM 

bittemeTs  of  contendiog  TcAs  is  gteaOf  fubfidiog  :  Ttig 
psitlf  proceeds  from  the  novelty  bdog  over;  partly  from  the 
great  variety  of  idfts  which  hate  taken  place;  and  pardyy  k 
is  hoped}  froa  more  enlightened  views  of  troe  relig^oD.  At 
to  holidays  for  recreation  or  mm7-making,  the  peoplo  have 
only  one  in  the  year»  called  Handfd^Monday  ;  and  even  the 
manner  in  which  this  is  employed  (hews  the  fober  minded- 
neft  of  the  people.  Inftead  of  meeting  m  large  afiembliesliBr 
diverCons^  each  finnily  coUeAs  its  own  kindred  froaa  the  dS£» 
ferent  paru  of  the  diftria»  provkles  a  feaft,  and  fpeods  the 
time  in  eating,  drinking,  and  converikioii.  The  halidayi» 
befides  Sabbaths,  for  rebgioos  fervices^  in  the  EftaMiflimmr, 
are  three  days  m  the  yeari  among  the  Seeeders  fix.  The 
people  have  fcarcely  any  fports  after  they  are  grown  np« 
Among  the  infiiute  advantages  of  the  Refermatioiiy  this  feems 
to  have  been  one  dUadvantage  attendmg  it,  that,  owing  tti 
the  gloomy  rigour  of  feme  of  the  leadii^  sAnrs,  aurth, 
fport,  and  cbearftdoeTs,*  vrere  decried  among  a  people  aheady 
by  nature  rather  phlegmatic.  Shice  that,  mirth  and  vice 
have,  in  their  apprehenfion,  been  confounded  together.  Some 
of  the  iefbries  pnnifli  attendance  00  penny  weddings,  and 
public  dancing,  with  a  reproof  from  the  pulpit,  in  Ae  pre- 
fence  of  the  congregation:  So  that  the  people  muft  cJcher 
dance  by  themfdves,  or  let  it  alone.  This  cenfate,  hi  feve^ 
ral  congregations,  is  frlling  into  difnfe.  There  are  a  km  per- 
ions,  caUed  tinhrs  and  bwum^  half*refident,  and  ludf4tine- 
rant,  who  are  feared  and  fuTpeCked  by  the  community.  Two 
of  them  were  banilhed  within  thefe  fix  years.  Strangers 
complain  of  the  pronunciation  in  this  dXMft  being  drawling, 
and  that  it  imprefles  them  with  a  belief  that  the  perfen  fpeak* 
faig  is  feur  and  ill  tempered.  The  inhabitants  are  improving 
fat  their  mode  of  living  and  drefs.  Intemperance  from  (pirt* 
tons  liquors  is  by  no  means  firequent  among  them  %  but,  un* 

luckily, 


^  Aucbterderrm.  459 

ImiaXj^  the  ufe  of  whiflcy  is  increafing,  and  that  oF  beer  di- 
miniihing.  The  Mue  bonnet,  a  national  badge,  is  diiappear* 
ing  rapidly.    The  prevalent  colour  of  the  mens  drefi  is  bine. 

ChtrA^  SdMf.  C9V.— For  feven  years  paft  the  ftipend 
has,  at  an  average,  been  L.  lo*,  inclndiag  the  glebe,  which 
is  Utfge,  befide  the  houfe  and  garden.  Child  BdfweU,  Efqi 
of  Balmoto,  ii  patron.  A  new  manfe  was  bulk  in  1784, 
and  a  new  church  in  1 789.  The  income  of  the  fchoolmafter 
may  be  aboat  L.  10,  independent  of  the  fcholafs  fees,  which 
are  from  is.  3  d«  to  2  s.  a  quarter ;  the  number  of  icholars 
fiom  5*  to  6o.  There  are,  befides,  two  private  fehools:  The 
fcholars  at  both|  taken  together,  may  amount  to  8o. 

MiJciUaniMU  Obfervathns^^^Thc  air  is  moid,  but  not  un- 

hedthy :  Fogs  are  not  frequent,  nor  of  neariy  b  long  conti* 

nuance  as  in  the  fbuthem  parts  of  the  iiland.    There  is  a  mi* 

neral  well  at  the  bottom  of  the  rocks  formerly  mentioned^ 

recorded  in  Camden's  Britannia,  and  Gordon's  Ilinerarium^ 

for  iu  medicinal  qualities  1  but  it  has  not  been  reforted  to  for 

fbme  time  paft.    The  lake  called  Lochgellie  is  3  miles  in  diw 

cumference }  that  called  Camilh  about  2  miles.  There  is  a  com* 

«\on  free-ftone  quarry  for  houfe^buildiog,  &c.    There  is  peat 

\a  the  parifli,  but  it  is  little  ufed  for  foeh    Coal  is  to  be  dug 

in  every  comer  ci  the  pariih,  and  fcarcely  exceeds  a  farthing  a 

ftone  at  the  pit  mouth.   There  is  likewiie  great  abundance  of 

Itmc-ftone,  which,  when  burnt  and  flaked,  fells  at  7d.  a  boll. 

fhe  ufe  of  it  in  agriculture  is  increafing  1  but  not  fo  much  here 

^s  in  other  places  where  the  price  is  perhaps  double  or  triplew 

^uduftry  is  increafing  \  and  there  are  very  convenient  fituations 

n  which  manufaAures  might  be  eftabliihed.     Several  wea^ 

^n  living  at  Lochgellie,  and  neighbourhood,  connect  them^ 

rives  irith  the  manufiiAwes  of  Kriccaldy.    There  is  a  thrl« 

ving 


400  Stai^lkal  Aumd 

ving  bleackfidd  hoe.  The  inhabkuits  hftve  oo  purtWnfliwt 
cither  for  the  army  or  the  na^jr;  but  noic  of  them  go  to  the 
latter.  They  enjojr,  in  a  toknble  <^SMe,  ifce  tomfoeta  and 
advantages  of  fociety.  The  mufic  here  is  betwecii  the  ^licl; 
fprightly  sMiiic  of  the  nortby  and  4ie  99m  plaiiluve  ikuific  of 
the  Couth.  A  pecuVac  fournefii  of  afpaft  it  obfiBrvcd  ,10  tjie 
people  here»  and  a  feemiog  uttwillingoefii  to-ciOfiveife  wiili»  or 
ihew  expreflioiu  of  good.will  u>  ftrange^ 

4 

There  are  6  alehoofeS)  or  vd»^  ehie&y.ioppovtcd  l|f  tte 
tryfies  at  Lochgellie»  L  e.  fairs  or  mackecs  where  no  aaftoiaa 
ate  cxa6bed  on  the  cooMBodities  ibid;  the ehief  of  wlMch  ia 
black  cattle.  The.  number  of  liOcbgetHe  tryftea  is  5  in  the 
year. 

A  cottier,  earns,  orcan  earn,  aboi|t  los.  a  «e^.  Thocoat- 
works  jiift  now  working fil  thisparifli draw  Ibrcoals L.  1 700 
a  year  \  L.  500  of  which  is  fi>r  coal  exported,  the  reft  for  the 
confumptioh  of  the  neighbourhood.  IVivate  families  here 
never  brew  their  own  beer ;  but  private  bakjng  is  ftiU  in  «(& 
There  are  but  1  puUic  bake-houles  in  the  parifli. 

The  advantages  and  diiadvanUges  of  empfojing  ooinarried 
hired  ferrants^  or  married  cottagers,  are,  to  the  iounodUtc 
employers,  pretty  nearly  balanced :  A  mixture  of  each,  wliere 
the  farm  is  large,  is  nioft  convenient,  l^he  preference  be- 
ginning to  be  fhewp  for  married  cottagers  is  far  more  bcvic 
ficial  in  its  coniequences.  The  beft  fervants  for  huftaocky 
are  raifed  from  thcfe  cottagers  families  \  otharwiie  they  bc« 
come  fcarce,  dear,  and  unlkilfuL 

Thi^  neiighbQiyhaod  and  cpui|ty  were  long  diftingiafhe^ 
ibJs.u^e^Qm  ifgeons  and  well  fiocked  pig^con^houfes^  but 

whlchji 


^Birhicfa»  of  htCf  have  been  Ming  off.  It  Jias  been  doubted 
ivhether  our  law  aulhorifing  pigeon-houies  a$  noty  infome 
<l^reey  contrary  to  natural  equil^;  as  it  does  not  leem  rea^ 
IbnaUe  that  aojone  ibbttld>keip4t  houio  Idrnilhed  with  a 
multitude  of  animals,  over  which  he  has  no  goyemmenty  and 
ixrhich  prey^  on  his*  noig^bouifs  cpra  as.  freely.  ;^  on  his 
own,  while  he  alone  has  die  profit.  It  has  aUo  beoi  doobtedt 
ifrhether,  on  the  whole,  jugeons  are  not  detrimental  to  the 
public,  by  devoming  more  com  than-  the  ph>fit  of  them  is 
iirorth ;  it  having  been  fiated  as  a  iaA,  that  a  pigeon-holife  of 
'an  ordinary  fize,  modewudy  Aiihod^  will  eonfkme  200  quar« 
ters  of  feed  in  a  year. 

As  a]i.inllance  of  remarkable  induftry,  it  may  be  mention* 
ed,  that  a  young  man  of  this  p^fh  went  Into  the  north  m 
£nglan4  as  a  labc^rei^^  and,  laid  lij,'out  of  his  earnings,' m  Cop 
courfe  ot  fomewhat  more  than  20  years,  L»  400. Sterling.  Hp 
then  returned  to  his  ^ativc  parifli,  purcbafed  and  fumilHed  a. 
pretty  exteniive  feu,,  upon  which  he  has  lived  with  his  tad^y ' 

^^7^;,   .    ,        ,....,  r  .   ■     .:  oTtf 

"  '  -  "  ■         "         ■   ••    U\Jii^ 

'                *    .  '  •       .                                •  -                          '      -          ••      '     f. 
•    ' •  /      .'        *  'I 

♦    '  •     ■      .      •  '  * ;  .  (  ! 

•       •  V        -.1.': 
■     .     .-.       '.  .  -'t 


"jft.-  Stt^l^tM  Jtttma 


NUMBS.Jt    SLVOL 


fARlSH   OF  KINLOSS. 

Bj  the  Rfv.  Mr  Johm  Hotbs. 


■t    . >4  .^ 


cr  •,:;.  I""  J  I  ■  "pw 


THE'antieht  and  modern  name  of  tliis  parilh  is  Kinlofi, 
derived  from  aoia,  a  Hea(I,.and  Lochs  L  e.  tke  Head 
of  the  Loch}  Kinlofs  being 'fituated  on  the  head  of  the  Bay 
olFindhorn.  This  prifii  iiin  the  (hire  of  Elgin, and  Forres  ^ 
ip  the  preibytcry  of  Forres,  and  fjnod  of  Mora;.  It  is  of  a 
fqYiare  formi  being  between  three  and  fonr  miles  long  and 
broad.  It  is  bounded  on  the  eaft  by  the  pari(h  of  Alves  \  on 
the  fouth  and  fouth-weft  by  Raffbrd  and  Forres ;  and  on  the 
north  by  the  Moray  Firth.  It  is  a  very  flat  level  country. 
X|uC  (j^l  js  various ;  in  fome  places  light  and  landy  \  in  othcn 
a  rich  and  deep  clay,  mofi,  and  loam,  make  up  a  confiderable 
part  of  the  foil ;  and  all  of  it,  vhen  well  managed,  produces 
good  crops  of  grain  of  every  kind.  This  parilh,  being  flat, 
is  but  poorly  fupplied  with  good  water  \  and  moft  of  the 
fprmgs  tafte  of  minerals.  The  fhore  is  flat  and  fandy.  The 
fifli  caught  here  are  moftly  haddocks  and  whictings,  and,  in 
the  feafon,  cod,  ikate,  and  ling,  which  are  all  fold  in  the 
cpuntry,  and  at  Forres,  at  about  i  d«  or  i|  d,  a  pound. 


COitah^  ant  DtJhtf^m.-'Jl^  itittpi  drf/  stifl  lieal. 

tby.  The  liioft  ^  prevalent  diftempers  are  lautaiiddm  (UfittUft, 
fcnrvfy  and  rhetti&atifin  )•  dwibg,  ^perhapf,  tor  hafd<*Uibodr, 
the  (harpneis  of  the  air^  a  fpaire  or  fifii.  diet;  and  mitt  of 

ckanliiieft.  *  *    ..    ,    .     ,i    •  -j  /.•• 

Populatwn.'^'tht  amonnt  of  the  inhabitants  of  this  parifll 
is  234  families,  which  contain  1031  perfons,  being  nearly  4^ 
to  each  family.  There  are  4  heritors,  40  farmers,  56  fifher- 
0ieQ  and  failors,  9  (hoemakers,  6  weavers,  6  carpenters  and 
Wrights,  2  uylors,  2  fmiths,  2  millers,  2  mafons,  2  coopers^ 
X  merchant,  i  brewer,  i  thread  manufsi^hurer,  today  labour* 
ers,  and  6  traveling  beggars.  Dr  Webfter's  flate  of  the  in* 
habitants  is  i  ipf  •  The  annual  average  of  births  from  1700 
to  1720,  is  25  males  and  21  females  1  from  the  beginning 
of  the  year  1779  to  the  beginning  of  1789,  is  29.  la  this 
laft  period  were  born  147  males,  and  145  females*  The 
decreaie  of  population  is  owing  to  the  fpirit  of  travelingi 
and  the  engroffing  of  farms. 

CburcA  and  StipenJ^^-^Tbt  manfe  was  built  in  175 1  $  the 
church  in  1765.  The  value  of  the  living  is  uncertain}  a 
procefs  of  augmentation  having  been  carried  on  fince  the  year 
1781.  The  patrons  are  Lord  Moray  and  Miis  Brodie  of 
Lethen. 

Mifcellariious  Oi/ervat$ons.'~-Thtre  are  no  rivers  in  this  ps*' 
rifh  but  the  Findhorn,  which  runs  fouth  and  wefl,  and  £ilb 
into  the  Moray  Firth  at  the  town  of  Findhorn.  This  river 
abounds  with  falmon,  which,  in  the  fpring,  and  beginning  of  • 
fummer,  are  boiled  at  Fmdhom,  and  Icitted  and  fent  to  the 
London  marlcet*    Frefh  falmon  is  fold  here  at  4  d.  a  poundv 

Tbi 


^\  ,7iaeoD^lv(ieiirindMptflflbJtFiadlnii^ 
^lllitii  continnallf  changpt^  -and  prevcDts  fliipi  of  gpnt  bor- 
,^kil  from  «ilcriog»  to  that  tlie  ttade  it  earned  oo  m  find 
Jpianciliiiit  ^vcflfiby  or  floops  •  Ihit  iiu|iorts  aio  merclMBt  goodly 
ibgary  inne,  porter^  bark,  &c.  Tbe  ti^ports,  oats  and  hmieft 
fibnoDs  Uaen  jam,  &c. 


NUM. 


9f  OatbUm.  46 f 

NUMBER     XUX. 

PARISH   OF    OATHLAW. 

Sj  the  Rev.  Mr  Thomas  Raiser* 


Sitaationf  Extent^  Iste* 

TH  E  antient  name  of  this  parifh  feems  to  have  been 
FinhaTen.  It  is  fitaate^  in  the  county  of  Angus,  prcA 
hjitrf  of  Forfar,  and  i^nod  of  Angus  azid  Mearos*  Ic  is  5 
miles  long,  and  about  2  broad.  It  is  bounded  by  the  pariih 
of  Tannadie  on  the  north  i  Aberlemno  and  Refcobie  on  the 
fouth ;  Carraldftooc  on  the  eaft^  and  Kirriemuir  on  t)ie  weft* 
The  general  appearance  of  the  country  is  flat.  The  air  is 
moift. 

ffi///.— The  hill  of  Finhaven  lies  on  the  fouth  fide  of  th« 
parifti,  in  a  diredlion  from  caft  to  weft,  ior  the  fpace  of  10 
miles.  On  the  top  of  this  hill  are  the  remains  of  an  old  caftle : 
The  foundation  of  the.  whole  of  it  is  yet  vifible.  Its  dimen* 
fioQS  are  137  yards  in  length,  and  37  in  breadth,  nearly  in  the 
form  of  a  parallelogram.  The  foundation  feems  to  have  been 
built  without  mortar.  The  ruins  difcover  fomething  like  vi« 
triable  ftooes,  and  plainly  appear  to  have  undergone  the  aAion 
of  fire  U*is  faid  that  the  family  of  Finhaven  were  wont  to 
retire  to  this  caftle  in  times  of  danger*  There  are  evident 
marks  of.  a  well  on  the  vcft  end  of  it.    The  height  of  the 

Vol.  I.  3  N  bill 


466  Statijlicdl  Jccmint 

hill  is  about  500  yards  from  the  level  of  the  countiy.  At 
the  foot  of  it|  immediately  fouth  of  the  caftle,  there  is  an  af>- 
pearance  of  a  crater  of  a  volcano,  and  all  around  fomeihing 
that  refeinbles  lava. 


jRiVrj.— The  river  Elk  tfuns  through  the  pariih  j  and»  It 
is  thought,  might  cafily  be  made  navigable  from  the  Kirk- 
town  of  Tannadice  to  Montrofe,  about  1 2  miles  diftant.  la 
its  Jprefent  ftate,  it  runs  in  a  ferpentine  dire£lidn  through  a 
very  fertile  country.  Formerly  it  abounded  with  falmon ; 
but,  on  account  of  the  number  of  crubs,  there  are  now  few 
or  none.  The  rivulet  called  Lemno  has  lately  been  turned 
into  a  canal,  which  runs  the  whole  length  of  the  parilh,  firom 
eaft  to  weft,  and  bifeAs  it.  It  inight  eafily  be  made  navigable 
for  fmall  boats.  It  joins  the  river  £ik  below  the  old  caftle 
•f  Finhaven. 

Pepu/athn.^^The  number  of  inhabitants  In  this  parifh  b 
believed  to  have  been  nearly  the  fame  <for  feveral  years  paft. 

Souls             •             •            .  .            •             430 

Males            •              •             •  •            .              217 

Females             '  •  '           •  •                •               213 

Annual  average  of  births             •  .              »             10 

I    ■      of  deaths              •  •             •               4 

■               ■          of  marriages  .                  •                 3 

Perfons  under  10  years  of  age  •               •               1 10 

Between  10  and  20.            •  ...           97 

Between  20  and  jo            .  .            •            •          160 

Between  50  and  70            .  •           •            •            50 

Above  70      -^      .             .  .            •            «            13 

Heritors  (node  of  them  reiide)  •                •             6 

Farmers  ^       *        •  1      *     *  *  34 

Families 


^  Oatblaw^ 


467 


Families  confiding  of 


I  perfon 
2 

3 
4 

5 

6 

7 
8 

9 

10 

II 

13 

IS 

«7 
18 

19 

21 

^3 
28 

33 

44 

Land  rent  of  the  pariih  about  L.  1178  Sterlings 
Ploughs  ,  •  . 

Carts  about  •  •  •  . 


X 

I 
4 
3 
3 
3 
t 

6 
I 

I 
a 

3 

I 
2 
I 
I 
I 
I 
I 
I 
I 

m 

34 
70 


Pdor.-'The  number  of  the  poor  of  this  parifli  is^  at  an  ave- 
rage, two.  The  annual  aoiount  of  the  contributions  for  their 
relief  is  about  L.  15  :  16 :  8  Sterling.  The  number  relieved 
at  prefent  is  from  two  to  four.  The  elders  of  the  kirk* 
feffion,  in  the  different  parts  of  the  parifli,  give  information 
concerning  the  ftate  of  the  poor.  In  1782,  the  kirk-feOion 
purchafed  a  fmall  quantify  of  com,  made  it  into  meal,  and 
divided  it  among  poor  families. 

Price 


468  StMiiJlical  AcuuHt 

Price  tf  Labour  and  Prowfians, —  \hc  increafe  of  lafaomtn 
wages  i:;  hulbandxy^  iiiice  the  year  1 740,  has  been  Tcry  great. 
For  ao  years  ^fter  that  period,  their  wages  were  from  L.  a 
Co  L.  3  a  year;  at  prcfent  they  are  firoai  L^j  to  I^  10  a 
y«ar,  and  maintained^  as  former ly,  in  the  £imily.  Women 
lervar.rs  wages,  during  the  period  abready  mentioned,  were 
L.  I :  ip  :  o ;.  they. are  npw  from  L.  3  to  It.  4.  .  Day  labour- 
ers, at  the  fame  period j  got  2^  d«  9  at  prcfent  they  get  from 
8d.  to  jod.  exclufive  of  viAuals.  Harveft  wages  for  the 
feafon  arc  from  L.  1  to  L.  i  :  10 :  o;  by  the  day  i  s.  and 
victuals.  Oatmeal  is  the  principal  food  of.  the  Ubounng  peo- 
pie.  The  price  of  it,  from  1740  to  1760^  was  ^boat  8  s,  and 
10  s.  6  d«  a  boll ;  at  pre&uit,  and  for  fome  years  paft,  ic  has 
been  from  i2s.to  14  s.  The  general  mode  of  living  was 
much  the  fame  at  both  periods.  Butter  is  from  6  d.  to  yd.  a 
pound.     Cheefe  from  54.  to  6  s.  a  ftone* 

Stipeftd.-^Thc  money,  ftipend  is  L.  500  Scots }  and  theie 
are  2  cbalders  of  vidtu4.  The  manfe,  offices,  and  garden^  are 
dilitnatcd  at  L.  6  Sterlmg,  and  the  glebe  at  L.  4.  Xhe  patron 
of  the  pari.!)  is  Lord  Aboyne. 

Antiquities  —  There  is  a  veftige  of  a  camp,  fuppofed  to  be 
Roman.  Its  dunenfions  are  laoo  yards  in  length,  and  600 
in  breadth.  There  are  2  tumuli  in  it,  which  have  never  been 
opened.  According  to  tradition,  it  was  part  of  a  gmt  fo- 
reft,  called  the  Foreft  of  Claton,  which  extended  from  Fin- 
haven  to  Kirriemuiri  about  the  difiance  of  0  miles.  The  iltc 
of  the  camp  is  npw  a  well  cultivated  farm,  called  Battle*dykes. 
The  names  given  to  the  other  farm  houfes  on  the  foreil  are 
idefcriptive  of  its  former  fituationj  iuch  .^  Birkeitbufli,  Drakc^ 
niirej  Forreftcr-Seat,  Ktiig's-bcat|  Wolf-Law^  &c. 

NUM- 


$J  Oamrie.  jfi^ 

NUMBER     L. 

PARISH   OF   GAMRIE. 

Bj  tht  Rtv.  Mr  Wilsoh. 


Origin  of  the  Name. 
TT  has  long  been  a  general  report,  and  the  preTailing  tra^ 
-*-  dition  in  this  country,  that,  fome  time  before  the  year 
1004,  in  which  the  church  of  Gamrie  is  faid  to  have  been 
built,  (and  there  is  at  this  day  the  date  1004  on  the  f^eeple), 
that  the  Thane  of  Buchan  purfued  the  Danes  to  the  precipice 
or  brow  of  the  hill  above  the  church,  and  there  defeated  them 
with  great  daughter*  Several  of  their  &ulls  (moft  likely  of 
their  chiefs  who  had  fallen  in  battle)  were  built  into  the 
church  wall,  where  they  remain  entire :  From  hence  it  came 
to  be  called  by  (bme  the  Kirk  of  Sculls.  In  the  Gaelic  lan- 
guage, the  word  Kemn^  horn  which,  probably,  Gamrie  is  de- 
rived, fignifies  running  Jlep.  or  running  leap.  And  this  deri- 
vation feems  a  natural  one  ;  becaufe,  from  the  (ituation  of 
the  hill,  which  is  one  of  the  highefV  on  this  part  of  the  coaft^ 
and  very  fteep  on  one  fide,  it  muft  have  been  a  running  ikir* 
mllh,  and  very  fatal  to  the  vanquifhed  In  fome  old  regifl 
ters,  the  name  of  the  parifli  is  written  Ghaemrie.  On  the 
faid  eminence,  above  the  kirk  of  Gamrie,  at  the  eaft  end  of 
one  of  the  moft  level  and  extenfive  plains  in  Buchan,  are  a 
number  of  veftiges  of  encampments,  which  at  this  day  are 
called  by  the  name  of  bloody  poU,  or  bloody  pits. 

Situation^ 


470  Stattjtical  Account 

Situation,  Extent^  Isfc, —  ilie  church  and  manle  of  Gtmnt 
lare  built  in  a  very  extraordinary  and  romantic  fituation,  on 
m  floping  piece  of  ground  in  the  middle  of  a  bill,  and  not  « 
mile  from  the  town  and  harbour  of  Gard<;nitown.  By  tvo 
headlands, 'called  Gamrie  and  Froup  bead,  which  projefta 
confiderable  way  into  the  fea,  a  beautiful  bay  is  formed,  where 
there  is  fine  anchoring  ground,  and  vefiels  can  ride  in  fafcty. 
At  high  water,  a  perfon  could  fling  a  ftone  into  the  lea  £rwa. 
the  church  }  and  looking  out  of  it,  it  has  the  appearance,  to 
a  fira^nger,  as  if  the  fea  waihed  its  foundations-  The  church 
is  built,  after  the  manner  of  fome  very  old  edifices,  with  un« 
flacked  lime,  and  with  very  thick  wails;  and,  although  it  has 
already  (lood  upwards  of  7C0  years,  it  may,  if  the  roof  be 
kept  in  proper  repair,  laft  for  hundreds  of  years  to  come. 
The  north  fide  of  Ganirie  parilh  is  bounded  by  that  part  of 
the  German  Ocean  called  the  Moray  Firth  ;  on  the  caft  by 
the  parifh  of  Aberdour  \  on  the  iouth  by  the  parifhcs  <tf 
Monwhiter  and  King  Edward  \  and  on  the  weft  by  the  rircr 
Dovern,  which  feparates  the  pariih  of  Ganurie  from  Banff. 
This  pariih  iiretchcs  9^  miles  along  the  fea^coaft,  which  is  a 
Tcry  bold  one  It  is  almofl  a  continued  chain  of  ftupeodooi 
rocks,  in  many  places  perpendicular,  and  200  yards  above 
the  fca  It  is  between  3  and  4  miles  broad.  Gamrie  panfii 
lies  in  the  county  of  Banff,  prcfbytcry  of  Turriff,  and  iynod 
of  Aberdeen.  The  foil,  in  many  places,  is  very  fertile,  and 
in  othera  as  barren ;  and,  though  much  has  been  done  of  late 
years,  there  \i  ftill  great  fcope  for  improTcment.  The  hilly 
ground  is  in  general  covered  with  heath,  and  in  foipe  places 
with  a  coarfe  kind  of  grafs,  on  which  fheep  and  young  cattle 
are  fed.  Sheep,  indeed,  are  very  much  baniihed  from  the 
parifli.  When  Mr  Wilfon  firft  came  to  the  parifh,  there 
was  fcarccly  a  farmer  who  had  not  a  flock  ;  but  now  there 
arc  only  two  or  three  that  have  any  at  all.   This  is  in  a  great 

meafiire 


ef  Gamrit.  471 

vneafurc  owing  to  the  introduilion  of  fowa  grafs,  and  the  dif« 
ficulty  there  is  in  winter  herding,  unleis  the  praAice  was  ge- 
9traL 

Sea  Coafiy  and  Fijberies. — On  this  coaft  a  variety  of  different 
kimU  of  fi(h  are  caught,  viz.  ling/  cod,  haduocks,  whitings, 
turt>ot«  Ikate,  &c.  with  which  this  country  uied  to  be  re- 
markably well  iiipplied,  and  a  conliderable  quantity  of  theoi, 
when  dried,  were  carried  to  the  Firth  of  Forth,  and  fold  there. 
From  the  beft  information,  it  appears  that  the  tiihermen  in 
this  pariih  have  ibmetimes  received  for  their  fait  ti(h  L.  25a 
annually.     Of  late  years,  the  fiOiing  has  been  (o  reaiarkably 
poor,  (to  what  cauie  it  is  perhaps  difficult  to  fay,  but  moft 
likely  one  principal  reafon  is,  the  immenie  quantities  of  fca- 
dogs,  a  kind  of  (hark,  with  wh)ch  this  coaft  has  been  in- 
fcfted),  that  there  has  hardly  been  fiOi  fufficient  to  ibpply 
the  markets  at  home.     Of  conlequence,  it  is  to  be  fuppoied 
they  have  rifen  much  in  value.   Long  after  the  preftnt  mini& 
ter  was  fettled  in  the  pariih,  he  could  have  purchafcd  haddocks 
at  one  penny  and  three  half-pence  a  dozen,  which  now  coft  a 
fbilling  to  eighteen  pence  %  and  in  proportion  for  other  kinds 
of  fifli,  and  every  other  article  of  food.     On  this  coaft,  great 
(^pianttties  of  lea  weed,  called  ware,  are  thrown  up  on  the 
jhore,  which  the  farmers  lay  on  the  ground,  and  find  very 
profitable  in  raifing  crops  ot  barley.     In  this  panOi,  it  is  laid 
on  with  a  very  (paring  hand,  owing  to   the  fter pnefs  of  tli^ 
coaft,  and  the  bad  accefs  to  the  fliore.     Confiderable  quan« 
titles   alio  of   this  fea-weed  are   cut  ofif  from   the  rocks, 
for  the  purpofe  ot  making  kelp.     At  an  average,  about  3^ 
tons   are    made  annually,    which   iell  from    L.,  3  to  L.  5 
a  ton.      On    the  river  Dovern,    which   feparates   the   pa- 
riihes  of  Banff  and    Gamrie,    is   an   exceeding  good   fal« 
mon  fiihery,  the  property  of  Lord  Fife,  which  lets  fot 

L.  xoo« 


47*  StaHfiical  Auwnt 

L  I  coo  per  annum.  The  laimon  arc  all  cored  in  the  tovn 
of  MacduflPl  The  pickled  fifli  are  all  feai  to  the  LoDdoa 
market,  and  what  are  falted  are  generally  exported  to  France 
and  Spain. 

Mineral  Springs^  ^uarrits^  i^c.-^Uear  the  iea-coaft,  ni 
in  the  neighbourhood  of  Macduff,  is  ^  prettj  good  auncnt 
Spring,  called  the  Well  of  Farlair,  which  hat  been  olctul  ia 
gravellilh  complaints.  Of  late  years  it  has  come  into  con& 
der;ible  repute,  and  a  nomber  of  people  relbrt  to  it  annoallf. 
In  this  pari(h,  upon  the  eftate  of  Melrofe,  now  the  property 
of  Lord  Fife,  is  a  very  good  flate- quarry.  The  quantity  aiw 
Dually  made  has  been  various^  depending  on  the  demaikU  and 
,  the  number  of  hands  employed.  The  flates  are  of  a  good 
quultty,  of  a  beautiful  bine  colour,  not  inferior  to  the  Lafdale 
llare,  only  thicker,  larger,  and  make  a  heavier  roof.  Qoar* 
ricrs  are  commonly  paid  (7  the  piece,  which  is  certainly  the 
htd  way  for  themfelves  and  their  employers.  Common  day* 
bbourers  ufoally  receive  from  7  d.  to  9  d.  a  day  in  winter^  and 
from  9  d.  to  1  s.  in  fummer. 

Natural  Curkfities  — ^Near  the  eaft  end  of  the  pariih,  and  not 
far  from  the  houfe  of  Troup,  are  three  great  natorml  curtofi* 
tics.  1.  A  perpendicular  rock  of  very  great  extent,  full  of 
flielves,  and  poflefled  by  thoufands  of  birds  called  Kitty- 
weaks.  Thefe  arrive  in  the  beginning  of  fpring,  and  leave  it 
again  towards  the  end  of  Auguft,  afrer  they  have  brought 
forth  their  young.  So  i>e  people  are  fond  of  eating  the  young 
Kitty's ;  but  the  (hooting  of  them  is  a  favourite  diverfit)n  e- 
very  year.  The  feaion  for  this  is  commonly  the  lafl  week 
of  July.  Whither  thefe  birds  go  in  winter  is  not  known  \ 
mod  probably  it  b  to  fome  placr  upon  the  coaft  of  Norway* 
sdly,  A  cave,  or  rather  deoj  about  50  feet  deep,  tfo  long» 

and 


Md  40  broad,  from  which  there  is  a  flibtcrraneous  pal&ge  to 
the  Tea,  about  80  yards  fong,  through  which  the  waves  arc 
driven  with  great  violence  iti  a  northerly  ftorm,  and  occafiba 
a  fmoke  to  afccnd  from  the  den*  Hence  it  has  got  the  name 
of  Hctfs  Liimb.  i.  e.  Hdl's  Chimney.  3*  Anothef  fubter- 
raneous  paflagc,  through  a  pcninfula  of  about  150  yards 
long  fit)m  fea  to  Tea,  through  which  1  man  can  with  difficulty 
creep.  At  the  north  end  of  this  narrow  paffage  is  a  cave  a- 
hoocao  feet  high,  30  broad,  and  150  long,  containing  not 
Ids  than  90,000  cabii  feet.  The  whole  is  fupported  by  im- 
mcnfe  columns  of  rock,  is  exceedingly  grand,  and  has  a  won- 
dcrfiilly  fine  effeft,  after  a  perfon  has  crept  through  the  nar- 
tow  paffage.  This  place  has  got  the  name  of  the  Needle's 
Eye.  There  are  in  the  parifli  fcveral  tumUli.  Not  many 
years  ago,  one  of  them,  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Macduff, 
was  opened  ;  and  there  was  found  in  it  an  urn>  containing  a 
coofideraUe  number  of  fmall  human  bones. 

PoMf/^ifift— The  population  of  the  parifli  is  nearly  double 
fince  the  year  173a.  At  the  above  period  the  pariih  con- 
tained 1600  fouls,  and  now  nearly  3000.  About  the  years 
1704  and  1705,  it  appears  by  the  Regiflcrs  that  the  number 
of  births  annually,  at  an  average,  were  then  45  j  and,  for  fe« 
vcral  years  paft,  they  have  not  been  under  6t.  The  number 
of  deaths  cannot  be  afcertained  fo  far  back*  About  30  years 
ago  they  Were  frt>m  10  to  x  a,  tad  for  7  years  paft  nearly  ao 
annually.  About  30  years  ago  there  were  from  la  to  14 
marriages  annually,  and,  for  7  years  paft,  not  lefs  than  afi* 


In  this  pariih,  many  inftances  of  longevity  might  be 
iionedk  It  is  only  a  few  years  (ince  a  fiflierman  in  Macduff 
died  at  the  «ge  of  1 09  $  and^there  are  fiving  at  ptdeitt  fevei^ 
jierfoii0  9oyeanQhi,aBAii|m|rds^  tfrWJIftnliliiM»99tk 
-  Vai.L  3  O  J^i 


474  Statyiical  Atcmmt 

year ;  and  laftjHJtamn,  at  the  conduCon  of  the  lurvcft,  the 
age  of  iiim,  and  the  two  (ervants  that  affifted  ia  taking  in  hs 
crop,  amounted  in  all  to  %yi  ;  and  it  is  worthy  rennarkiag 
that  one  of  thefe  has  been  his  fervant  50  years.  Mr  WiUba 
was  the  firft  that  introduced  tvmips  and  potatoes  into  the  ps- 
rifh.  He  had  a  few  of  them  in  Us  garden,  which  the  peo- 
ple in  coining  to  the  church  ufed  to  look  at  as  a  great  cini»> 
ijty  \  and  it  was  thought,  at  that  time,  that  none  but  a  g»- 
dener  could  raife  them.  It  was  long  before  the  method  of 
hoeing  came  to  be  thought  o£  Being  fown  thick,  and  haiK^ 
.weeded,  they  came  to  no  fize.  Another  Angularity  dciares 
noticei  viz*  that,  when  he  came  to  Gamrie,  there  was  not  a 
watch  in  church  except  the  laird's  and  the  minifter^s. 

Church. — ^The  minifter'is  living  is,  commuiubus  mnnU^  L.  io» 
Sterling  \  the  crown  patron.  The  prefent  incumbent  was  fet- 
tled in  the  year  I732,  He  has  been  a  widower  for  ten  yean 
paft  \  has  had  14  children  ;  ten  of  whom  (five  ions  and  fi?t 
<iaughters}  he  has  lived  to  ice  well  fettled  in  the  workL 

Poor. — In  (itch  a  popular  parifh,  it  is  to  be  fuppojcd  there 
will  be  feveral  poor,  and  accordingly  between  50  and  60  re- 
ceive charity  out  of  the  pariih  funds  ;  and  of  thefe  t|ie  year 
1782  added  feveral  to  the  lift.  The  weekly  colledbonat 
Gamrie  and  Macduff*  is  at  an  average  14  s.  L.  450^  which 
is  at  intereft,  belongs  to  the  poor  of  this  parifli, 

Rifital. — ^The  valued  rent  of  the  pariOi  is  L.  5489  : 6 : 9 
Scots.  The  prefent  real  rent,  exclufive  of  fiflieries,  is  nearly 
L.  i<S8o  Sterling. 

Tawfu^  FiUagtff  and  MifcManeout  Obferoatmtts.^^-^Tbz  prin* 
flpal  cauib  of  the  increafc  of  popidation  are,  the  number  o£ 

fiihuig 


of  Gamrse.,  475 

fifhing  towns  on  the  coaft,  the  breaking  of  large  £urms  into 
iboaller  ones,  the  encouragement  giTcn  by  the  heritors  to  im- 
prove wafte  ground,  and  their  endeavouring  to  introduce  a 
better  nKxle  of  culture.    The  principal  town  in  the  parifli  is 
Macduff,  the  propertT*  of  Lord  Fife.  In  1 732  there  were  only 
a  few  fiihermen's  houfes  in  Macduff,  but  now  there  are  fe- 
deral well  laid  out  ftreets,  and  looo  fouls  in  the  town.    The 
harbour,  on  which  his  Lordfhlp  has  already  laid  out  up- 
wards of  L.  50009  will,  when  finifhed,  be  one  of  the  beft  in 
the  Moray  Firth.     There  are  ten  veffels  from  60  to  120  tons 
burden,  and  6  fiihing  boats,  belonging  to  Macduff.    Three 
of  them  are  in  the  London  trade,  two  in  the  eaft  country 
trade,  and  the  others  trade  moft  commonly  to  the  Firth  of 
Forth. 

Since  the  great  incrcafe  of  population  in  this  part  of  the 
parifh,  his  Lordfhip  has  erefled  a  Chapel  of  Eafe  in  Macdufi^ 
for  the  accommodation  of  the  inhabitants,  who  are  nearly  fix 
miles  from  their  parilh  church,  and  gives  a  falary  to  a  quali- 
fied  clergyman  to  preach  s^nd  difpenfe  the  ordinances  of  reli- 
gion among  them. 

On  the  eaft  end  of  this  pariOi,  there  are  very  near  to 
one  another  two  other  fmall  towns,  Gardenfton  and  Cro^ 
vie,  both  the  property  of  Lord  Gardenfton,  and  not  far  from 
his  houfe  at  Troup.  The  town  of  Gardenfton  contains 
nearly  300  fouls,  and  Crovic  100.  In  thcfc  two  places  arc 
the  fame  number  of  vcilels  and  fi(hing*boats  as  in  Macduff, 
only  the  vcffcls  are  of  a  fmaller  fize.  Lords  Fife  and  Gar- 
denfton are  the  only  heritors.  Lord  Fife  does  not  reGde  in 
the  pari(h,  but  one  of  his  principal  feats  (Duff-houfe)  is  very 
near  it,  being  only  about  an  £ngli(h  mile  from  Macduff.  His 
Lordfhip  has  paid  the  greateft  attention  to  the  improvement 
of  his  (dates,  and  the  good  of  the  country,  by  encouraging, 

Inclofing, 


47^  Sltafi/9ical  jfccamt 

indofing,  Unding  his  tenants  to  have  yearlj  a  certaiii  ipiaiw 
tity  of  their  ground  in  tnrnipi  fo  much  in  fallow^  aod  fo 
much  laid  down  in  grafs  feeds.      Thefe  regidadons  vcre 
highly  proper  and  neceflfary  fome  years  ago»  becaufe  peopk 
are  led  in  chains  by  habit ;  and  it  is  by  flow  degrees^  and 
well  d^efted  {rfans^  they  are  made  to  depart  from  eftabUfiieJ 
cnftoms :  But,  now  that  the  propriety  of  thefe  regolatjoos 
are  feen,  it  would  be  difficult  to  make  the  farmers  have  fqch 
fmall  quantities  of  turnip,  &c.  as  it  was  occefTary  at  firfk  to 
refirid):  them  to.     Lord  Fife  has  alfo  conwrted  the  whole 
cufloms  and  fervices  (ufuaUy  called  bonnage)  at  a  mode* 
rate  rate.     This  is  of  the  utmoft  importance  to  the  te* 
mnts.'    Not  many  years  ago,  many  of  them  paid  nearly  one- 
half  of  their  rent  in  fowls,  eggs,  ilieep,  &c.  delivered  in  kind, 
and  the  labour  of  themfelves,  their  fervants,  horfes,  114  feed* 
time  and  harvefl,  carriage  of  peats,  and  many  other  works  in 
tlie  diHerent  feafons  throughout  the  year,  when  called  for  |  by 
which  means  they  were  ofien  obliged  to  plough,  dung,  and 
harrow  their  landlord's  ground,  and  lofe  the  feafon  for  their 
own*     Planting  is  a  mode  of  improTcment  in  which  do  per- 
fon  in  this  country  has  been  more  fucccfsful  than  the  Earl  of 
Fife.     His  Lordfhip  has  planted  not  lefs  than  from  7000  to 
8000  acres  on  his  different   eftates,    which  he    continues 
yearly  to  increafe ;  and  at  this  moment  the  whole  is  in  a  very 
thriving  flate.    An  account  pf  the  various  kinds  of  trees,  and 
the  method  taken  to  rear  them,  will  be  fech  in  Young's  An- 
nals of  Agriculture,  and  the  Minutes  of  the  Society  of  Arts 
ana  Commerce.  The  moft  confiderable  plantation  in  this  pa* 
irifh  is  what  is  called  the  Tore  of  Troup.    There  are  upwards 
pf  600  acres  planted  with  trees  of  varipus  kinds,  in  a  thriving 
ftate.    Thefe  i^ere  reared  chiefly  by  the  direction  of  the  late 
]^fr  Garden  of  Troup,  and  begun  by  his  grandfather.    Mr 
Gardeuj  who  is  now  fucceeded  bj  his  broths  Lord  Garden- 


rfGamrie.  477 

Aoa,  wa$  updBimoufiy  dcAed  inembar  of  parUament  for  the 
coomy  of  Abcfdeen,  during  three  fucceeding  ieffioat  of  paiv 
ItasDcot ;  be  conftantly  refided  at  Troup»  io  this  pari(h»  excep- 
ting the  clme  he  attended  parllaoientary  bufiaefa^  and  paid 
great  attention  to  the  iaprovement  of  his  eftate,  and  the 
good  of  his  coontrj.  He  never  gave  a  (horter  leaTe  than  for 
a  life  I  and  to  feveral  of  his  tenants  he  gave  very  long  leale»^ 
viz.  a  life,  two  nineteen  years,  and  a  life.  He  was  not  like 
many  others,  who,  when  they  faw  a  tenant  thriving,  thought 
he  had  too  good  a  bargain,  and  would  demand  a  very  high 
rent  at  the  next  letting.  It  was  his  joy  to  (ee  his  tenants  car- 
rying on  their  improvements,  and  profpering  by  their  honeft 
induftry.  Nor,  when  any  of  his  leafes  fell  vacant,  was  it  ever 
known  that  he  did  not  prefer  the  tenant's  own  {on,  and  con* 
tinue  him  in  the  poflcffion,  if  he  was  difpofed  to  follow  the 
fame  occupation  with  his  father*  And  it  may  be  fafely  faid, 
that,  owing  to  the  encouragement  given  by  Lord  Fife  and  Mr 
Garden,  there  are  few  tenants  in  the  north  of  Scotland  more 
thriving  than  in  the  pari(h  of  Gamrie.  In  the  year  17829 
when  many  others  were  not  able  to  pay  their  rents,  fcardty 
was  not  much  felt  except  bj  the  pooreft  clals* 

The  language  fpoken  in  this  parifli  is  the  Scottifli,  with  aa 
accent  peculiar  to  the  north  country.    There  is  no  Erfe. 

The  fuel  ufed  in  the  parifli  is  partly  coals  and  partly  peats. 
The  latter  has  of  late  years  become  very  fcarce ;  and  coab 
are  every  day  much  more  commonly  ufed  1  which,  owbg  to 
a  partial  and  oppreflive  tax,  coft  very  dear,  and  is  a  very 
great  hindrance  to  improvement  in  this  part  of  the  country. 
It  is  certainly^  very  unfair,  and  highly  abfurd,  that  this  ntceCm 
iary  article,  which  at  any  rate  muft  be  confiderably  higher  ii| 
price  to  confumen  in  ibc  Nortbi  from  the  expence  of  car- 
riage. 


47^  StalijUcal  Auwnt 

riage,  than  it  is  to  thofe  on  the  other  fide  of  the  Redhead, 
fliottld  alfo  be  loaded  with  a  tax  from  which  the  ionthem  in- 
habitants are  exempted  :  And  it  b  to  be  hoped  the  wildomand 
joftice  of  the  legiflature  will  foon  provide  a  remedj,  either  bf 
a  total  repeal,  or  by  malcing  the  tax  payable  at  the  pit,  which 
wonld  thereby  become  geoend,  and  be  moch  Idb  poitial]^ 
fek. 


NUM. 


^0^^  419 


NUMBER     LL 
PARISH  OF  GASK. 
By  the  Rev.  Mr  David  Keut^ 


Name^  Situation j  CsV. 

GASK,  the  name  which  the  pari(h  has  had  for  time  nn« 
memorial,  is  Gaelic,  and  figoifies,  it  is  laid,  in  that 
language,  a  Slope.  As  the  parifli  is  fituated  on  ariiing  groundf 
the  name  is  defcriptive  of  its  fituation.  Gafk  is  in  the  coun- 
ty of  Perth,  preibytery  of  Auchterarder,  and  fynod  of  Perth 
and  Stirling ;  is  nearly  a  fqoare,  each  fide  of  which  is  fome* 
what  tnore  than  two  EngHfli  miles.  The  ground  dopes  on 
each  fide  of  the  Roman  cauleway,  which  runs  through  the 
middle  of  the  jpariQi  upon  the  bigbeft  ground ;  the  fovth 
Hope  is  a  pkafant  fertile  banic,  laid  out  into  cultivated  fields, 
and  bounded  by  the  river  Earn,  which  bounds  the  pariih  oo 
the  Ibuth;  on  the  north  flope  are  plantations  of  fir,  oak, 
birch,  &c.  interf  jpcrled  with  corn-fields  and  ^ftures.  Gafk 
Is  bounded  on  the  ibuth  by  Dunning,  on  the  weft  by  Trinity 
Galk,  on  the  north  by  Maderty  and  Methven,  and  on  the 
eaft  bfr  Tippermuir  and  Forteviot. 

Population. — ^The  population  is  much  the  fame  as  for  half 
a  century  paft,  but  has  rather  increafed  fince  1745.  In  1790, 
there  were  m  the  pariih  486  individuals,  of  whom  141  were 

>       ^    uad* 


4^0  Statj^l  Account 

under  tea  years  of  age ;  and  of  the  34$  above  tliat  age^  i6^ 
were  males,  and  181  females^  Of  the  total  number,  335  be- 
longed to  the  eftablifhed  church,  140  were  feceders,  and  i  f 
of  the  Epifcopal  perfuafion.  There  are  1 10  inhabited  houfes 
dirperfed  over  the  pari(h,  of  which  i  is  occupied  by  an  he- 
ritor, 7.2  by  farmcrsi  41  by  carpenters,  irrights,  mafbns, 
ihoemakers,  and  taylors,  12  by  perpendiclers%  13  by  day- 
labourers,  15  by  fiogle  women,  4  by  married  fervants,  and 
'  the  remaining  2  by  the  minifter  and  the  fchooloiafter.  The 
number  of  male  fervants  is  48,  and  of  female  fervanu  40. 
There  are,  on  an  average,  10  bapti(cd|  6^buried,  and  5  couple 
married  in  a  year, 

Stiptndi  Powr^  (^c*  The  living  is  L.  43  in  money,  2  chal* 
ders  of  meal,  t  chalder  of  barley,  and  a  glebe  of  4|  acres. 
The  manfe  was  built  in  1750  ;  the  kirk  is  old,  bat  kept  iff 
good  repair  by  the  heritors.  The  king  is  patron*  The  ave- 
rage number  of  poor  upon  the  funds  for  thefe  2;  years  is  6 1 
and  the  amount  of  coUeftioas  and  doaatioos  for  their  fup. 
port  is  L.  15  anaually. 

Prwba,  4^ir«— The  parifli  pfodaciss  wlieatt  barley,  peafe, 
potatoes,  taraips,  fown  and  pafture  gra&  ^  aad  foppliet  itttf 
with  all  forts  of  grain,  befide  fiOKng  confiderable  qaaatities  to 
Perth,  Crieff,  See  There  asie  pvctiy  large  bcdt  of  mail 
here.  Freo-ftoDe  aad  grey  ilate  abound,  and  are  eafily  qosr* 
ried. 

Mi/cellaneous  Ob/ervaHms^-^The  adf  is  dty  and  kesJthf. 
The  Earn,  which  forms  the  fouthem  boundary,  is  a  coufl* 
ilrable  rhrer,  though  not  navigable,  producing  tklmon,  trout, 

and 

f  Gotugers,  who  hold  a  finall  piece  of  gronad  of  the  teaant 


skUd  pike*  There  are  131  horfcs,  648  head  of  cattle,  and  50 
iheep  la  the  parifli  \  of  wild  quadrupeds  thefe  are  foxes^ 
badgers,  polecats,  and  rabbits ;  of  birds,  partridges,  wood- 
cocks, black-cocks,  fnipes,  &c.  A  malbn^s  wages  are  i  s,  4  d. 
a  wrright's  10  d.  a  taylor's  6d.  and  a  day-labourer's  6d.  a 
day«  with  vi£hial9.  The  fuel  uied  hire  is  coal  apd  peat  \  the 
former  cofts  i }  d.  a  fione.    The  air  b  dry  and  healthy* 

jintiqutties. — ^A  Roman  caufeWay  runs  through  the  middle 

of  the  parifli,  on  the  higbeft  ground  i  it  b  ao'fcet  broad,  com« 

poled  of  rough  ftones,  clofely  hid  together,  and  points  we(l« 

ward  to  a  camp,  ftill  diftinguifliable,  in  the  parifli  of  Muthil^ 

and  eaftward  to  another,  alfo  vifible,  in  the  parifli  of  Scone« 

This  caufeway  is  in  entire  prefervation,  as  the  proprietor  of 

the  adjacent  grounds,  though  he  indofed  the  fields  on  each 

fide  with  ftone-dikes,  did  not  fuffer  a  ftone  to  be  taken  froth 

the  road.     Along  the  caufeway  are  ftations  capable  of  con» 

taintng  1  a  or  20  men  %  they  are  inclofed  by  ditches,  yet  very 

djftioA,and  feem  to  have  been  d«ffigned  for  the  accommodation 

of  the  overfeers  of  the  work.  Within  Gafl&^s  policy,  in  this  pa* 

rifli^  veftiges  of  two  Roman  camps,  one  on  the  ibuth,  and 

the  other  on  the  north  of  the  eaoTeway,  are  ft31  rifible  \  and 

the  ditdie%  with  the  Praetorinm,  are  dtftinft,  though  the 

ground  b  planted  with  fir.    One  of  thefe  camps  feems  to 

hare  been  capaUc  of  oontainnig  500  men,  and  the  other  hadf 

that  nomber* 


Vol.1.  jp  HUBf. 


48f  StatiftUal  Auma 

NUMBER    hVL 

UNITED  PARISHES  OF  LiaMORE 
AND  APPIN. 

Sj  the  Rev.  Mr  Doi^ald  M<Nicol. 


Origin  g/*  the  Name, 

KILLMULU  AG,  and  Ifl^nd  Mund,  wen  tbt  old  aamo 
of  thefe  parifhes,  and  ibe  otdj  names  bf  whkh  xhej 
arc  defigncd  in  the  Teind  reoords  at  Edinburgh,  ¥ittmylu§g 
literally  fignifies  the  Cell  or  CSiapel  of  St  Mulos^  a  &im  of 
the  feventh  cemary,  who  #as  the  firft  dignitarf  bere,  and 
probably  laid  the  foundation  of  the  cathedral.  IfUmdMwai 
fignifies  the  Ifland  of  St  Mongo,  a  fmall  iffland  ia  Loch  Levca 
in  Glenco,  dedicated  to  that  lidnt.  The  ifland  has  been  long 
the  common  cemeterji  or  buiying  placet  of  the  anhabitana 
of  Glenco.  Lifimrt^  the  modem  name  of  thb  parifli,  iign^ 
fies  large,  or  extenfive  gardens.  Lis^  or  Ziv ,  in  die  Cdtk 
language,  denotes  a  garden. 

JSMfrn/.— The  extent  of  this  parifli  will  hardly  be  credited 
by  an  inhabitant  of  the  Tooth  of  Scotland,  being,  from  the 
Ibuth-weft  end  of  Lifmoxis  to  the  extreme  part  of  Ken- 
lochbeg,  to  the  north-eaft  in  Appin,  63  miles  long,  by  lo^ 
and  ia  fome  places  16,  broad.    It  is  interfered  by  coofi- 

dcrable 


f^  Ufmore  andAfpliu  483 

dcraUe  arms  of  the  fea,  and  comprehends  the  countries  of 
Z^iTmore,  Airds,  Straith  of  Appin,  Durror,  Glencreren,  Glen- 
CO,  and  Kingerloch :  The  laft  is  9  computed  miles  long,  iU 
toaled  in  the  north  fide  of  Linoeheloch,  an  arm  of  the  fern 
about  3  leagues  over,  which  divides  it  from  Lifmore.  This 
united  pari(h  is  bounded  by  the  feas  that  divide  it  from  Ard- 
cfhattan  and  Kilhnore  to  the  fouth  and  fouth-eaft ;  by  Glen- 
urchy  or  Qachandyfart  on  the  eaft,  2t  the  King's  Houfe ;  by 
Killmalie  on  the  north-eaft ;  by  Suineart,  a  part  of  the  parifljt 
of  Ardnamurchan,  on  the  north-weft  1  by  Morvein  on  th^ 
weft ;  and  by  the  Ifland  of  Mull,  and  the  great  WcfternOceaUi 
on  the  weft  and  fouth- weft. 

Situation  and  Sutface. — ^Th«s  parifh  is  fituated  in  the  ihire 
and  fynod  of  Argyle,  and  preibytery  of  Lorn.  In  a  parifh 
of  this  prodigious  extent,  the  ibil  muft  be  various.  The 
Ifland  of  Lifmore,  where  the  ninifter  refidcs,  is  1.0  miles 
loag,  and  from  a  mile  to  a  mile  and  a  half,  Qr  two  miles 
broad.  It  is  founded  totally  on  lime-ftone  rock.  The  fur- 
face  b  moftly  very  rugged  and  uneven,  by  the  interfe£lioxi 
of  the  rocks.  The  foil  is  rich,  confifting  of  black  foft 
loam,  formed  from  the  fsrface  of  the  lime-ftone  mouldered 
down,  and  produces  much  grain.  The  parifh  of  Appln  is  a 
happy  mixture  of  foil,  equally  fiiited  to  com  and  grafs ;  but 
by  far  the  greateft  part  of  this  extenfive  parilh  is  mountain^ 
9us,  and  well  adapted  for  i9»eep.  There  is  very  little  grain 
raifed  in  Kingerloch,  or  even  in  the  higher  parts  of  Appin, 
lince  (heep  fiocks  have  been  found  beneficial.  Many  of 
the  flieep  farms  are  very  extcnfive  ♦,  and,  confidcring  the 
height  of  the  hills,  produce  excellent  grafs,  and,  of  courfc, 
very  good  (heep,  perhaps  among  the  beft  in  thefe  weftcrn 

diftriAs. 

*  Pne  of  tbcm  is  18  Scou  miles  long. 


4S4  Siatijllcal  Account 

diftriAs.  There  are  few  hills  in  the  Highlands  where  th« 
grafs  grcyws  higher  up  towards  the  tops  than  in  thefe  moon> 
tains.  The  very  fummits  of  them  all  arc  rocky.  A  very 
fcnall  proportion  of  the  laad  in  Kingerloch  and  Appin  is  now 
An  tillage. 

Clhnaie  and  Df/iofis^-^Thc  cKmatc  here,  like  all  the  com- 
tries  expofed  to  the  great  Atlantic  Ocean,  is  generally  moill 
and  damp }  the  two  laft  years  have  been  more  remarkably 
tnoift  than  any  in  the  memory  of  this  generation.  A  great 
deal  of  rain  falls  here,  but  there  are  feldom  fuch  floods, 
or  heavy  falls,  as  in  the  fouth,  except  a  few  thunder 
iliowers  in  very  warm  fummers.  There  is  feldom  foch 
deep  fnow  here,  or  of  fuch  long  continuance,  as  in  the 
fouth  i  nor  is  the  froft  generally  fo  intenfe,  though  arms  of 
the  fea  have  been  known  to  freeze  over.  Few  local  or  epi- 
demical difterapers  prevail  here.  The  rheumatifm,  the  ge- 
fteral  complaint  of  all  moift  climates,  is  very  common  in  thefe 
parts :  It  is  rather  matter  of  furprife  that  it  is  not  more  fre- 
quent, confidering  the  dampnefs  of  moft  of  the  common  peo- 
ple's houfes,  and  how  much  the  inhabitants  are  expofed  to 
rain  and  cold^  efpccially  as  their  ordinary  mode  of  living  is  not 
very  luxurious.  Fevers  and  fluxes  fometimes  prevail  among 
the  country  people  5  and  colds  and  coughs  are  very  frequent 
Ija  fcvcre  winters  and  fprings.  Agues  are  almoft  unknown 
here.  Within  thefe  two  or  three  years,  the  jaundice  is  be- 
come very  frequent  in  this  and  fome  neighbouring  parifhes. 
Many  of  the  inhabitants  live  to  a  great  age.  During  the  re- 
(idence  of  the  prcfent  incumbent,  many  inftances  of  longevity 
have  appeared.  Many  live  to  the  age  of  84,  and  85,  fome  to 
po,  94,  and  96,  and  even  to  100  years.  One  man  died  laft 
year  in  Appin  at  the  age  of  105.  In  the  year  1744,  the  prc- 
fent incumbent  fa^  a  wom^n  in  Appin  who  ws^  ^owed  to 

be 


of  Li/more  and  Appin.  485 

Ik  I  x6»  She  then  fat  in  a  very  ere£t  pofturei  fpinnbg  at  a 
rock  or  diftstf.  Innoculation  is  beginning  to  gain  ground 
among  the  common  people,  though  fome  of  them  fiill  retain 
Tiolent  prejudices  againft  it.  The  inhabitants  are,  on  the 
wbde,  abundantly  healthy,  oving^  probably,  in  part  to  their 
not  living  pent  up  in  towns  or  villages^  or  being  more  or  lei« 
employed  in  fedentary  occupations.  They  live  moftly  in 
houfes  detached  from  each  other ;  and  are  induftrious,  chear* 
fill,  and  conftanily  engaged  in  adlive  employments  in  the 
open  air,  which  greatly  tends  to  the  prefervation  of  their 
health.  The  conftant  fea-breezes  likewife  prove  very  £u 
^oiirable  to  their  cooftitutions.  The^inhabitants  of  Ltfmore 
have  univerfally  the  benefit  of  as  fine  frefh  water  fprings,  \^ 
fuing  from  lime*ftone  rocks,  as  any  country  can  boaft  of* 
When  they  engage  in  fowing  or  reaping,  they  often  work 
very  keenly  ;  and,  in  rowing  their  fmall  open  boats,  they  of- 
ten over-exert  themfelves,  to  the  great  detriment  of  their 
health.  The  military  ardour  of  all  Highlanders  is  a  well 
known  chara£teri(lic. 

Rivers. — The  rivers  Crcren,  Co,  or  Conn,  (the  Fingalian 
Cona,  a  beautiful  romantic  river),  the  river  of  Coinich  in 
Kingerloch,  with  thofe  of  Durror,  Bailichelifli,  Laroch,  and 
Leven,  are  the  moft  confiderable.  Moll  of  thefe  contain 
falmon,  pore  or  lefs,  and  all  of  them  yellow,  or  mofs  and 
fea  troiit,  in  the  proper  fer.fons.  None  of  the  trouts  are  ever 
fold  -,  and  few  of  the  falmon  are  fold  in  the  country }  whei| 
tthey  are,  they  fetch  2  d.  and  3  d.  a  pound.  There  are  feve* 
ral  freOi  water  lakes  in  thefe  parifhes,  containing  abun- 
dance of  fine  trouts;  particularly  three  lakes  in  Lifmore^ 
two  of  which  contain  plenty  of  fine  yellow  trouts.  About 
50  or  ^o  years  ago,  there  were  ibme  fea  trouts  carried  to 
thefe  lal^esi  the  breed  of  which  preferve  their  diftuiAion  per- 

feflly 


\ 


4%$  Zuaifikal  Aceomit 

Mij  clear  to  this  day.  They  retain  their  fluniDg  filverictles^ 
thoogh  they  have  no  communication  with  the  fea  %  their  fiefli 
b  as  red  as 'that  of  any  falmon,  and  their  tafte  is  totally  dif- 
fiatnt  from  that  of  the  yellow  trouts.  Another  finall  lake 
in  the  ifland  contains  large  eels,  but  no  trouts.  Whaks  are 
frequently  feen  about  Lifmore  in  fummcr  and  har?eft,  when 
they  are  in  purfuit  of  the  Ihoals  of  herring*  that  pais  bgr  to 
Fort  William  and  LochiaL  A  few  herrings  are  fometimes 
caught  in  this  neighbourhood ;  but  they  (eldom  remain  in 
the  bays  long  enough  to  be  caught  in  great  numbers.  Seals, 
or  fea  calves,  are  caught  frequently  with  nets  on  fnnkVocks 
about  Lifmore.  The  fame  fea-fiih  and  fea-fowl  as  are  on  the 
left  of  the  weftern  coaft  abound  here ;  fuch  as  leas  or  coddies, 
both  large  and  fmall,  in  vaft  fiioals ;  red  or  rock  cod,  lytlies, 
mackereli  and  a  few  flounders. 

tfJls.—Tbc  hills  of  Glenco  and  BailichelUh  are  by  fiu-  the 
higheft  in  this  parifli.  The  tops  of  them  are  conical  j  and 
ibme  of  them  are  thought  to  be  among  the  moft  romantic  in 
Scotland.  There  is  now  an  excellent  line  of  road  carried 
through  Glenco,  from  whence  thefe  romantic  ftopendnoos 
hill?,  when  contrafted  with  the  delightful  valley  below,  zp^ 
pear  uncommon  obje£ls  to  ftrangers,  a^d  never  ^1  to  attrad 
i^imiration. 

^W|.-^There  are  abundance  of  natural  woods  and  plant- 
ing  on  different  eftates  in  Appin.  Some  old  natural  grown 
firs  remain  in  a  few  places  in  the  higher  parts  of  the  coun- 
try. 

Animals. — ^In  Lifmore,  there  arc  neither  rats,  moles,  or 
foxes.  There  are  otters  in  great  abundance,  with  a  few  wild 
cat9.    Weafels  made  their  appearance  )xere  within  thefe  12 


^  Ltfinore  and  Afpin.  4%j 

ycari^  bat  never  before  ;  and  they  are  now  very  numeroos* 
In  Apptn  and  Eingerloch,  there  are  xnoks^  weafels,  white 
ratsi  martins,  pole-cats,  wild«cats,  common  and  monntaia 
hare  i  the  laft  as  white  as  fnow  in  winter.  There  was  not  a 
common  hare  in  the  valleys  in  Appin,  pr  in  the  neighbour- 
ing parifh  of  Ardchalian,  ao  years  ago.  There  are  foxes^ 
badgers,  and  otters,  in  Appin.  In  the  lower  parts  of  Appin^ 
particularly  on  the  Marquis  of  Tweedel's  and  Mr  CampbeU 
of  Aird's  properties,  there  are  roes  in  great  abundance  ;  not 
the  {he  of  the  hart,  as  feme  of  our  EngliOi  Didionaries  faUe- 
ly  denominate  them  ;  for  the  roes  have  their  bucks  and  does 
as  the  deer  have  their  harts  and  hinds.  In  the  higher  parts 
of  Appin,  a  few  red  or  mountain  deer  frequently  appear^ 
when  they  are  feared  or  frightened  from  the  neighbouring; 
foreft  of  Buachail  %  &c.  A  few  deer  occafionally  appear  ia 
Kingerloch ;  but  the  iheep  will  foon  bani(h  them,  as  they 
cannot  endure  to  pafture  with  them ;  nor  are  the  roes  fond 
of  it.  The  fquirrel  is  now  become  very  rare,  if  not  totally' 
cxtinA,  in  this  part  of  the  Highlands. 

The  birds  in  this  parifh  are  much  the  fame  as  in  other 
parts  of  the  Weft  Highlands.  Eagles  abound  in  Kinger« 
loch,  and  the  higher  parts  of  Appin,  together  with  ptarmW 
gans,  black  cocks  or  heath*fowI|  groufe  or  moor-fowl.  There 
are  a  few  partridges  in  Lifmore  and  Appin.  A  variety  of 
hawks  are  found  in  Lifmore,  from  the  fmatleft  kinds  to  the 
£dcon  oriiunting  hawk.  Wild  geefe  hatch  in  fome  of  the 
iilands  round  Lifmore.  Though  the  very  exiftence  of  the 
jackdaws  with  red  feet  and  bills  is  denied  by  fome  of  the  in- 
habitants 


*  On  the  baaks  of  the  river  Ete,  the  Flngaltan  Ufnoch,  and 
fats  three  renowned  fons,  Naos  or  Naois,  Ailli,  and  Ardan* 
were  bom,  as  fct  forth  by  Mr  M«Pherfon.  This  is  a  piesc  of 
traditionary  hiftory  well  known  in  thefe  countries. 


4S8  StafiJKeal  Jccount 

habitants  o{  the  fouth  of  Scotland,  yet  there  is  nothing  mo^e 
.  certain  than  that  thej  are  to  be  found  hatching  in  the  rocks 
about  Lifmore.  They  are  nearly  of  the  faine  iize  with  the 
grey-headed  ones.  The  cuckow,  fwailow,  water-wagtail, 
wood-cock|  corn-crake  or  rail,  with  the  lapwing,  or  greea 
^over,  make  their  appearance  at  the  ftated  fca(bns«  In  &- 
▼ere  winters,  a  few  fwans  vifit  the  lakes  of  this  parifli  \  but 
they  feldom  remain  long  in  this  country. 

Numbif  ofHorfes^  Sheep^  Istc. — It  is  difficult  to  afcertain 
the  number  of  cattle  in  tbefe  parifiics.  Very  few  horfes  are 
now  bred  here  ;  and  all  the  bbck  cattle  bred  are  principally 
intended  for  common  family  ufe.  There  are  25000  (heep  in 
in  the  parifh,  or  perhaps  many  more,  as  they  are  daily  on 
the  increafe.  The  value  of  wool  here  has  been  always  fluc« 
tuating,  from  3  s.  9  d.  to  6  s.  and  7  s.  the  ftonc,  the  white, 
and  that  laid  with  tar  mixed.  At  an  average,  from  7  to  8 
fleeces  go  to  a  ftone. 

Populatkn.^^ThsTC  >s  no  afcertaining  whether  population 
is  on  the  increafe  or  decline  here,  though,  at  firft  view,  the 
ixnmenfe  trads  of  fheep-Eu-ms  might  naturally  induce  us  to 
think  it  decreafing.  The  inhabitants  amount  at  prefent  to 
3526  foub.    Lifmore  contains  1 121  of  that  number. 

A  rage  for  emigration  has  got  to  a  great  height,  of  late,  in 
the  Highlands.  There  have  been  two  emigrations  from  tbefe 
parifhes,  particularly  from  Appin.  The  inhabitants  arc  now 
become  fo  crowded,  that  fome  relief  of  this  fort,  in  one  (hape 
or  other,  fecms  abfolutely  neceflary.  In  1775,  the  firft  (hip, 
completely  loaded  with  emigrants,  moftly  from  thcfe  parifh- 
es,  failed  for  North  Carolina.  The  American  war,  which 
Woke  out  next  year,  put  a  fiop  to  aU  attempts  of  tins  oatiM 

till 


'9f  tijhtoire  and  AppiH.  489 

tni  laft  auttSmn,  when  another  fhip,  with  emigrants,  moftty 
from  Appin,  and  the  higher  parts  of  Ardchattan  parifli,  car* 
tied  away  aboat  200  people  for  North  Carolina.  Prepara- 
tions are  making  for  another  emigratibo  frOm  thefe  parUheft 
this  year; 

Btrthsy  Deathly  ahd  Marriages.^t  is  a  difficult  matter  to 
mfcertain  exadtly  deaths,  births,  or  marriages,  in  thefe  exten- 
five  pariflies,  particularly  on  account  of  the  great  number  of 
Epifcopals  and  feAaries  in  Appin.  It  is  impoffible  to  keep 
any  rcgifter  of  deaths,  becatifc  thcrfc  arfe  fcvfcn  or  eight  dif* 
ferent  places  of  interment,  and  fome  of  thefe  at  great  diftan- 
CCS  from  each  other.  There  arc  ftveral  chriftenings  in  Gleri- 
CO  not  inferted  in  th&Regifter,  as  alfo  all  that  are  bapttfed 
by  the  feAaties. 

Rtnt^  i^c. — ^Thc  rent  of  thefe  patiftes  has  Increafett 
exceedingly  within  thefe  few  years.  When  the  prefent  in* 
cumbent  gave  in  a  rental  lately,  in  a  prdcefs  of  augmenta* 
tion,  it  amounted  only  to  L;4400  and  odd  pounds  yearly*  At 
preient,  the  rental  is  about  L.  8000  Sterling  yearly^  exclufiv«  « 
of  kelp,  woods,  &c.  Some  lands  in  the  parifh  are  let  at  10  §4 
the  acre,  and  fbme  even  higher )  but  this  is  not  the  cafe  ia 
general.  There  are  17  heritors  poiTeiTed  of  property  m  theft 
pariihes  \  eight  of  whom  are  refident. 

Cr^.— "The  only  crops  raifed  in  thefe  pariihes  are  oits^ 
barley,  and  potatoes,  with  a  little  flax.  From  the  fmall  triab 
made  by  a  few  gentlemen,  clover,  ryegrafs,  and  turnips,  an«« 
fwer  very  well  in  both  pariihes.  The  minifter  has  fown  al 
little  clover  and  rye-^grafs  dn  his  glebe  for  x8  or  20  years 
paft,  arid  he  finds  great  betiefit  from  it.  Mod  of  the  r^t# 
of  Lifmore  are  paid  in  kind,  u  e.  in  meal  and  barley.   Som« 


49^  Stati/lical  Account 

farms  in  this  parifli  few  20,  feme  26  bolls,  of  hxAcf  jeMAj  % 
and  from  60  to  70  bolls  of  oats.  But  the  returns  are  very  finally 
owing  to  an  unhappy  defire  among  the  £u-mers  of  bbouring 
yearly  too  much  unripe  ground,  that  is,  ground  that  is  not 
allowed  age  fufficient  to  ftrengthen  it.  There  is  both  rock 
and  mofs  marl  in  Lifmore  in  great  quantities,  and  aUb  fome 
in  Appin.  This  the  tenants  often  ufe  with  too  liberal  a  fiaodt 
to  the  great  detriment  of  fuch  ground  as  is  not  allowed  agjc 
enough.  But  the  iQvincible  impediment  to  cultiyadon  in  ge- 
neral (befides  the  obftru£tion  given  by  the  rocks  to  the 
plough  in. Lifmore)  is  want  of  fuel  to  burn  lime.  Peats  are 
the  only  fuel  in  both  pariQies.  The  procefi  of  making  them 
in  Lifmore  is  difficult  beyond  conception,  as  they  are  firft 
tramped  and  wrought  with  men's  feet,  and  then  formed  by 
the  women's  hands.  There  is  a  neceffity  fer  this  ;  becauTc 
the  fubftance  of  which  they  are  made  contains  no  fibres  to 
enable  them  to  cohere  or  fttck  together.  This  tedious  o« 
peration  confumes  much  of  the  farmer's  time,  which,  in  a 
grain  country,  might  be  employed  to  much  better  advantage  ^ 
and  affords  ferious  caufe  of  regret  that  the  coal-duty  is  not 
taken  off,  or  leflened,  which  would  remove  the  everiafting 
bar  ta  the  fuccefs  of  the  fifliing  villages,  and  to  improvemenu 
in  general  over  all  the  coafts  of  Scotland.  It  may  be  aver* 
red,  with  feme  degree  of  confidence,  that,  unleis  the  coaft- 
duty  be  in  fome  fhape  altered,  the  fiihing  villages,  juftly  coo* 
fidered  at  prefent  fuch  flattering  national  objcAs,  muft  be 
bid  afide.  Grain  is  not  fo  ftrong  here  as  in  the  fouth,  ow« 
ing  to  the  inceffant  rains.  Lime  would  perhaps,  in  fome 
meafure,  remedy  this  evil. 

Ecclefiaftical  State  of  the  Farifb ^The  Duke  of  Argyle  is 

patron  of  this  parifl).  All  the  inhabitants  of  Lifmore  are 
pf  the  EftablUhed  Church  of  Scotbnd ;  as  are  thofe  of  King* 

erlocbi 


rfLymri  and  Afpin.  491 

<ar{och ;  and,  excepting  a  few,  there  is  not  a  Seceder  in 

tidier  pariib.     There  are  four  or  five  Papifts  in  the  pa- 

wi&k  of  Appin,    all   of  whom   came  from  other  parifliA 

except  one  man,  who  was  converted  by  his  wife,  an  Irifh* 

^roman.    There  are  great  numbers  of  Epxfcopalians,  in  the 

higher  parts  of  the  parifhof  Appin  \  and  a  clergyman  of  their 

own  peribafion  refides  among  them.    There  are  four  placet 

of  worihip  in  the  parifli,  viz.  Lifmore  «nd  Appin,  Glenco 

and  Kingerloch.    There  ts  a  miffionary  eftabUfhed  by  the 

committee  for  managing  the  royal  bounty  between  Glenco 

and  the  nesghbonring  glens  belonging  to  the  parifh  of  Ard« 

chattan.    The  milBonary  of  Strontian  preaches  four  times  ia 

the  year  at  Kingerloch.  It  is  the  opinion  of  the  judicious,  that 

the  funds  for  miffionaries  and  catechifts  ihoukl  have  been  all 

alloted,  long  ago,  for  building  new  churches  in  thefe  eztenfive 

pariCbes.     It  would  unqueftionably  turn  out  to  much  greater 

advantage  to  the  public.     Lifmore  was  a  Bifhop's  See,  the 

refideace  of  the  BiOiop  of  the  Ifles,  and,  at  certain  periods,  of 

the  Bifhop  of  Argyle.     The  prefent  church  of  Lifmore  is 

the  chancel  of  the  old  cathedral  new  roofed  about  40  years 

ago,  after  lowering  the  old  walls  from  ten  to  feven  fc:et.  The 

font  and  'confeffional  chair  remain.    The  walls  of  the  Bi^ 

ihop's  CafUe  ftill  remain  pretty  entire,  four  miles  to  the  weft 

of  the  cathedral.    It  has  a  fquare  open  court  within.    There 

was  a  (mall  temple,  with  a  burying  ground,  on  an  iiland, 

or  rather-  peninfula,  called  Bemera,  on  the  farm  where  the 

caftle  ftands.    In  Appin,  there  is  a  neat,  fmall  church»  lately 

rqiaired.    The  church  yard  is  inclofed  with  a  wall  of  ftone 

and  lime.    The  manfe  in  Lifmore  is  not  very  good.    It  was 

built  about  34  years  ago,  an4  repaired  within  thefe  20  years. 

The  prefent  incumbent,  Mr  Donald  M^NicoI,.  was  admitted 

minifter  of  Lifmore  and  Appin  the  15th  of  July  1766.    The 

living  was  only  L.  60 :  19  : 7  Sterling  yearly,  by  the  old  con- 

veriion^ 


49«  Statifttcal  Accmmt 

verfioD,  tjH  the  Lord$  of  Seffioa granted  an  ftqgmcBtadoiii  m 
June  la(l»  DfL.38 :  18 : 3  yearly  The  viAvaXcoofiftsof  aifaob 
«  firlots  of  barley,  52  bolls  a  firlocs  of  oat^meaU  (9  ftones  tothc 
boU),  which»  by  the  old  con^rfios  of  xoo  lib.  the  chdder, 
floakes  the  Itying  now  L.  99  :  17  :  10  Sterling  yearly,  iochid- 
ing  too  merks  for  communton-eleinefits,  befides  a  giebc  of  4^ 
acres  arable,  and   about  6  acres  of  paAure  gronxnd,  ixu>fik 
bog  or  marfli.    The  value  of  the  glebe  cannot  be  caiily  after* 
tained.     The  pofterity  qf  the  fextons  hold  t  fmall  (Hcce  of 
free  land,  that  fetches  a  rent  of  about  L.  la  Steriiog  yearly. 
They  held  their  charter  (a  Latin  One)  originally  from  the 
Bifiiops,  00  exprefs  condition  that  they  we^e  to   prefers 
the  bticulum  twrr/  {irobably  the  croGer.    T«retity*fiye  yean 
%gOt  the  property  paid  only  Im  4  Sterling  yearly  rent.     It  11 
fuppofed  to  be  among  the  oldeft  properties  in  the  pafifli« 
handed  down  regularly  in  a  lineal  fucceffion.    Buchanani  in 
his  Hiftory  of  Scotland,  aflerts  that,  in  his  timCi  there  were 
Ibme  remains  of  religious  ho^tfcs  in  the  iflands  Dretni^h  and 
Ramafa,  on  the  norih  fide  of  Lifmore.  Dr.  Walker^  Profeflor 
of  Natural  Hiftory  at  Edinburgh,  and  the  prefeat  incuunbeotg 
fearched  for  thefe  ruins   z^  ycar^  ago^  but  no  Teftiges  of 
them  were  then  to  be  found. 

Poor — ^The  poor  are  fupported  chiefly  by  the  the  charity 
of  the  inhabitants,  by  begging  from  houfe  to  houle.  Any 
fupport  they  get  here  from  the  kirii;-fcfiion  is  not  ndeqaate 
to  their  maintenance.  From  L.  1 8  to  L.  20  are  dtftribotcd 
in  both  parifhes,  arifing  from  the  Sunday  colle&ions,  fines, 
^nd  fome  other  fmall  funds.  The  Epifcopal  congreg;atioa 
contribute  fometimes  one  or  twp  guineas  a  yeari  to  midce  vf 
|he  above  fum. 


^JEi09/^«<— There  is  a  parochial  fchool  in  LHmorej  and  \ 

*  thcr 


tf  Li/kore  and  Appin.  49} 

m  -ApfMii,  with  a  falaiy  to  each  of  themj  firom  L.  iB  «» 
Xtk  20  Sterling  yearly,  over,  and  above  the  Ichool  emolii^ 
pnents.  The  falaries  ariie  ia  part  from  a  parochial  afleflmcMt 
fA  4  d.  in  the  pcfund  of  old  valued  reoti  amounting  to  ao* 
xnctks  Scots  yearly,  and  fiartly  from  money  mortified  I^ 
£^iog  William  for  eftaUlfiiing  fchools  in  thek  parifhea. 
*rhcre  is  an  excellent  good  new  ichool-houfe  in  Appin.  The 
Ichool-boufe  in  Lifmore  is  very  bad  j  but  there  is  money  £t^ 
building  a  new  one.  There  is  one  ichool,  with  a  falary  of 
1>.  10  Sterling  yearly,  at  the  Slate  Qjiarry  in  Glenco,  granN 
ed  by  the  Society  for  propagat\ng  CUriuian  Knowledge.  The 
number  of  fcholars  is  fo  fluAuating,  that  they  cannot  be  eafi^ 
afcertained.  The  fchool  in  the  Straith  of  Appin  condfts  of 
60,  and  fometimes  %o  icholars.  The  Society  bchool  at  the 
Slate  Quarry  confifis  of  about  as  many }  and  the  one  in  Li£> 
more  of  40  or  50,  There  are  fometimes  one  or  more  f mailer 
Ichools  kept  up  at  the  expence  of  the  inhabitants  in  the 
ax)re  remote  partf  of  (he  parilhes. 

AtUijmties. — ^There .  are  fonie  Druidical  cairns,  or  conical 
heaps  of  floneS|  in  different  places  in  the  pariihes,  which  for^ 
merly  contained  urns  or  earthen  vafes  filled  with  a(bes,  and 
fome  piepes  of  hvman  hones*  One  of  tbefe  cairns,  of  veiy 
confiderable  magnitude^  and  of  a-  regularly  conical  formd 
ftands  within  a  very  fmall  dillance  of  the  cathedral.  One 
pf  thefe  earthen  vafes  or  urns,  containing  afiies,  and  pieces  of 
human  fculls  and  bones,  was  turned  up  hft  year  by  the 
plough '  in  a  neighbouring  farm.  In  the  ifland  of  Lifmore^ 
there  are  feveral  veftiges  of  Roman  fortifications  \  and  parti- 
cularly an  old  caftle,  wit)i  a  fufee  and  draw*bridge,  faid  to 
have  been  built  by  the  Danes,  or  Scandinaviansi  when  thef 
infefted  thefe  coafts.  There  is  alfo,  within  half  a  mile  of  the 
cs(hedral|  one  of  (he  eircolar  tpwers  fo  frequently  to  be  met 

with 


494  Siatifikal  AMimi 

with  in  the  Ifle  of  Skftf  and  on  the  weftem  coift  of  Scot- 
bad,  and  which  Dr  Johaibnt  contrvy  to  the  gCDcrad  opl- 
nioos  ridicttlouflj  aflerts  to  have  been  erefted  for  tatfeivhig 
the  cattle  from  the  depredations  of  thievea  im  the  night-tiiiic. 
Tkefe  towers  have  been  probaUy  intended,  portfy  at  Jeaft, 
lor  raifing  beacons  or  fires  on  them,  to  abrm  the  coaft 
and  coQOtry,  on  the  approach  of  enemies.  For  this  rca- 
fbot  the  greateft  care  has  been  always  taken  to  place  them  in 
a  fitnation  commanding  a  moft  extenfive  view,  fo  aa  to  be 
fecn  from  the  neighbouring  towers  and  heights.  In  coiiftmfk- 
ing  the  walls  of  the  tower  in  this  ifland^  neither  lime  nor 
mortar  of  any  ibrt  is  uTed. 

CMry^/«f/«— The  prodigious  ftrata  of  marl,  from  lo  to  i6 
feet  deep,  in  the  bottoms  of  all  the  lakes  in  Lifinore,  may 
be  ranked  among  the  curiofities  in  this  parilh.  There  is 
m  this  ifland,  in  the  face  of  a  lime-^fione  rock,  feveo  or  eight 
feet  above  the  furfiice  of  the  ground,  and  quite  beyond  the 
reach  of  tides,  a  feam,  la  or  15  inches  broad,  of  a  concre- 
tion, coropofed  of  all  the  varieties  of  Ihells  to  be  fbimd  on 
thefe  coafts,  with  now  and  then  a  fmall  mixture  of  charcoal, 
as  firm,  and  nearly  as  folld,  as  the  rock  furroonding  it,  to 
which  it  fcems  to  be  perfeAly  united,  and  to  make  a  port. 
Pieces  of  it  have  been  canried  to  Edinburgh.  Water  nmniog 
over  the  face  of  the  lime-ftone  rockf  in  this  ifland  generally 
diflblves  fofter  particles  of  it,  and  leaves  the  more  folid  parts 
m  a  variety  of  fanciful  grotefijue  figures. 

The  lime-ftone  rocks  in  lifmore  lie  all  in  one  dicefllbo,  in 
layers,  one  above  another,  neA-Iy  from  iboth-eaft  to  north- 
weft.  There  are  fcams  or  fpars  three  or  four  feet  hroad,  of 
remarkably  hard  flinty  rocks  or  ftones  running  acrofs  the 
idand,  at  the  diOance  of  zj  or  a  mttes.    Thefe  feams  appear 

•  in 


rfLifmore  and  Appin.  495 

in  a  direft  line  with  thofe  in  Lifmore,  on  the  oppdite  coaft  of 
Xlonrein^  where  there  is  no  lime.ftone.  But,  of  all  the  ctiri* 
ofities  in  this  ifland,  the  moft  remarkable  feem  to  be  deer, 
and  perhaps  elk-homs^  of  great  fize,  and  cow-horns  of  ftiU  a 
jsiuch  greater  £20  in  proportion*.  The  pith  of -one  of  the 
latter,  though  much  IhriTelled  and  withered,  is  12  inches  tin 
circamfereuce  at  the  root.  Tradition  aflcrts  that  this  ifland 
^ras  of  old  a  deer-foreft ;  and  the  number  of  deer-horns,  and 
a.  deerlkeleton  found  quite  entire,  confirms  the  aflertion.  It 
is  laid  that  the  feventh  moft  fuccefsful  hunting-chace  which 
Fingal  ever  had  was  injthis  ifland ;  and  the  inhabitants  pre- 
tend to  point  out  Zlia  turn  banjUnn^  the  hill  or  eminence  of 
the  Fingalian  fair  ladies,  on  which  they  fat  to  view  the  di« 
verfion. 

Language. — ^The  common  language  of  the  parlfli  is  the 
Gaelic,  a  branch  of  the  antient  Celtic.  The  names  of  all  the 
places  in  the  parifli  are  manifeftly  derived  firom  it.  The  mi* 
nifter  preaches,  in  the  long  days,  both  in  Gaelic  and  £ng» 
lifli ;  particularly  in  Appin,  where  there  are  fome  who  on* 
derftand  £ngli(h  only.  It  is  believed  that  few  preachers  in 
any  part  of  the  world,  except  thofe  in  the  Highlands,  preach 
10  two  languages.  This  is  one  of  the  many  inconveniencies 
under  which  a  clergyman  labour^  in  thefe  extcnfive  pariflies. 

Prices  of  Provifiont  and  Laiour.^^AB  there  is  no  public 
market  in  thefe  pariflies,  there  is  no  poffibility  of  alcertain* 
ing  the  price  of  grain  or  provifions.  Barley  generally  feUs 
from  1 8  s.  to  20s.  and  21  s.  the  boll;  meal  from  14 s,  to 
16  s. ;  butter  generally  for  12  s.  the  ftone,  (this  ftone  flmuld 
be  24  lb.),  and  checfe  for  5  s.  and  6  s.  the  ftone.  What  is 
fold  in  fpring,  or  late  in  the  feafon,  is  often  at  a  higher  price. 
Moft  of  the  work  in  thefe  pariflies  is  managed  by  fervants 

hired 


49j8^  Sfati/tlcal  AccouM 

hired  for  the  year,  and  maintained  by  the  reTpcAive  familiey 
that  employ  them.  As  the  Jufkfces  of  the  Peace  found  it 
isDpra£licable  to  fix  a»y  ftandard  for  fervants  wages,  it  is  ia 
WQ,  to  attempt  laying  any  thing  decidedly  on  this  fubjeft. 
One  man  pays  fervants,  both  men  and  women,  a  thirds  and 
fometimes  one  half»  more  tha^  others,  owing  to  the  diffe- 
rence both  of  treatment  and  the  manner  in  which  they  are 
enjoyed*  Such  as  work  for  day*s  wages  have  from  8  d.  to 
rs.  a  day,  and  maintain  themfelves.  At  fcvere  work,  (bch 
as  kelp-making,  wood-cutting,  and  coaling,  &c«  they  have 
much  more.  A  taylor  has  6  d.  or  8  d,  and  his  yifhials ;  and 
» (hoemaker  much  the  fame ;  carpenters,  and  other  mecha. 
nics,  I  s.  or  I  s.  2  d.  and  their  vidluals. 

Services. — Although  pcrfonal  fcrviccs  performed  by  tenants 
ftiil  prevail  in  different  parts  of  the  Highlands,  they  are  be- 
coming obfolctc  in  thcfc  pariflies.  The  fcrvices  were  fcldom 
dlfcretionary,  but  limited.  Some  tenants  go  from  this  ifland 
to  the  main-land  to  perform  thefe  fcrvices,  at  the  diftance  of 
&  or  9  miles.  They  devote  at  lead  6  or  7  days  yearly  to 
their  mailer's  or  landlord's  fervicc  in  this  way ;  and  they  get 
fbme  allowance,*  for  the  moft  part,  to  fupport  them  while 
performing  their  work.  This  is  over  and  above  2  or  3  days 
that  fome  of  them  work  yearly  at  roads.  Some  proprietors 
in  neighbouring  parifbes  carried  thefe  fervices  to  a  {hamefdl, 
not  to  fay  oppreffive,  pitch,  in  obliging  their  tenants  and 
cottagers  to  cut,  ftack,  and  houfe  their  peats,  &c,  and  (o  find 
their  own  provifions  all  the  time.  This  is  one  of  the  innv- 
merable  grievances  occafioned  by  the  heavy  coal  daty« 

Roads  and  Bridges. — Since  the  refidence  of  the  prefent  in* 
cnmbent  in  the  pariih,  roads  and  bridges  have  undergone  s 
remarkable  change  for  the  better,  efpecially  ia  Appin.  There 


tf  Lj/htpre  and  Jlpphk  497 

3s  an  excclteot  line  of  road,  moftlj  finiflied^  from  Shian  Ferry 
through  Airdsi  Strath  of  Appin,  Dbror,  aod  Gletlco,  (o  the 
Xing's  Houfe  at  Lubnamart,  with  6  or  7  bridgeSi  for  a  courfe 
of  17  or  18  computed  miles,  befides  feveral  bj-roads.  Laft 
year  a  line  of  road  has  been  opened  to  Gleocreren.  There 
iias  been  littlie  done  to  the  roads  in  Lifmore*  There  are  no 
tolls  in  the  Highlands* 

Pe^-Q^r.-^When  the  prefect  iiictimbent  came  to  the  pa« 
ti(h,  and  feveral  years  afterwards,  the  nearcft  poft«office  was 
at  Inverary  \  ind  a  few  of  the  gentlemen  of  Appin  employed 
a  runner,  who  went  once  a  week  to  Inverary  to  bring  their 
letters,  newfpapers,  &c,  Mr  Seaton  of  Touch,  who  bought 
the  eftate  of  Appin  (a  gentleman  particularly  attentive  to 
the  good  of  the  parifli,  and  of  the  country  in  general)  after 
much  trouble  and  folicitation,  got  a  poft-office  eftablifhed  in 
Appin,  becoming  himfelf  fecurity  for  making  good  any  defi- 
ciency that  might  happen.  For  feveral  years  the  office  bare^ 
ly  fupported  the  expence  of  the  runner,  &c.  1  but  the  circu« 
lation  of  correfpondence  increafed  fo  rapidly,  that  this  lad 
year  it  made  a  clear  return  to  the  revenue  of  about  L.  74 
Sterlings  which  would  defray  the  whole  coal  duty  of  this 
county  yearly,  as  it  ftood  lately,  by  a  ftate  tak^  from  the 
Cuftomhoufe  books.  A  runner  goes  now  thrice  every  week 
from  Appin  to  Bunaw,  and  from  Bunaw  to  Inverary,  and  re- 
turns as  often.  A  branch  of  this  poft-office  extends  from 
Buliaw  to  Oban ;  ^nd  from  Oban»  where  there  is  a  Cuftom« 
houfe,  to  Arofs  in  the  Ifland  of  MulK  Another  branch  ex- 
tends from  Appin  to  Fort  William,  the  north  line,  and  like* 
wife  to  Strontian.  A  letter  may  come  in  three  days,  or  even 
two  days  and  a  half,  from  Edinburgh  to  Appin.  The  cfta- 
bli&ment  of  this  poft-office  contributes  highly  to  the  pUa- 
fure  and  advantage  of  this  country  and  the  neighbourhpod  % 

VoL.X  3  R  thoogh 


49^  StaHfticat  AcMttit 

though  it  muft  be  acknowledged  that  it  cofts  nearly  L.  ^m 
Sterling  yearly.  Numbers  of  carriers  arc  employed  monthly 
between  Appin,  Benderloch,  Oban,  andGIafgow;  and  vei^ 
fcls  called  packets  run  generally  once  a  month  between  Grecn- 
ock|  Oban,  and  Mull,  with  goods  of  various  (brts  for  the  ac« 
commodation  of  the  neighbourmg  countries.  The  poft-o& 
fice  in  Appin  is  at  prerent  kept  by  Mr  John  McLaren  IchooT- 
maftcr,  for  a  fmall  laiary  of  not  more  than  about  L.  5  Ster- 
ling yearly^ 

Majacre  efGtenco. — ^h  were  to  be  wifhed  that  a  veil  conld 
be  thrown  over  this  part  of  our  hiftory,  as  it  was  the  moft  bar- 
barotjc  tranfatflion  ot  modem  times  fanflioned  by  any  regular 
authority  froiu  government.  The  maflacre  of  Glcnco  hap- 
pened  in  King  Willlam^s  reign,  and  is  a  circumftaoce  well 
known.  As  it  does  not  add  much  luftre  to  the  humanity  of 
the  times,  it  may  fufiice  to  obferTC,  that  all  the  inhabitants 
who  could  be  feizec!  were  indrrcriminately  butchered  in  cold 
blood,  moftly  in  their  beds,  by  the  fbldiers  and  officers  wh0 
were  their  gucfls^  and  hbipitabty  entertained  for  ten  days  be- 
fore. The  officers  were  playing  cards  with  Glenco  and  Mrs 
McDonald  the  early  part  of  the  night :  Before  day,  Glenco 
was  murd'ered  in  his  wife's  arms.  Mr  McDonald  of  Achtri- 
chatain  fhared  the  fame  fate. 

Public  Houfes. — Tn  Kingerloch  there  arc  2  pubKc  houfes, 
at  the  t'v  ferries  to  Lifmore  and  Appin,  where  they  cannot 
be  wanted  ;  in  Appin  there  are  9  or  10 ;  in  Lifmore  7  or  8. 
Thefe  houfes'  cannot  be  fuppofed  to  improve  the  morals  of 
the  people;  though,  in  a  country  Gtuated  as  this  is,  a  few  of 
th''m  can^ot'bc  wanted.  Four  or  five  of  thofe  in  Appin  arc 
(lace  houfes.  and  pretty  well  kept;  the  others  are  but  of  a 
\^ry  ordinary  kind. 


ff  Lifmore  and  Appinl  499 

Ste  Coafis  and  Currents^  (9*^.— There  is  a  yaft  extent  of  fes^ 
coaft  in  thefe  pariflies ;  perhaps  from  80  to  90  miles  in  all 
<lire6lions.  Where  it  lies  contiguous,  a  great  deal  of  fes^ 
^reed  is  ufed  for  manuring  the  ground  for  barley  and  pota»> 
toes.  There  is  a  violent  current  between  the  weft  end  of 
IJfmore  and  MuU,  well  known  to  fea-faring  people,  at  the 
dangerous  rock  of  Carrig,  which  is  covered  with  the  tide  at 
liigh  water.  Inhere  are  a  number  of  fmaller  currents,  though 
not  fo  deferring  of  notice.  There  is  a  fmall,  but  ftrong  one, 
at  the  Feny  of  Bailicheli(h,  leading  up  to  Lochleven  and  the 
Hate  quany.  There  is  a  pretty  ftrong  one  at  the  ferry  be- 
tween Lifmore  and  Appin,  and  another  at  Shian  Ferry,  .be- 
tween Appin  and  Benderloch.  Between  the  weft  end  of  Li& 
more  and  Morvein  three  ftreams  meet,  in  conlequence  of 
contrary  tides,  which,  In  tempeftuous  weather,  occafion  a 
finart  fwell  and  broken  feas.  All  the  above  currents  change 
their  coturfes  regularly  with  the  tides.  The  beft  anchoring 
about  the  ifland^  for  veflels  of  any  burden,  is  in  the  narrow 
found  between  Ramafii  and  LilinQre,  near  the  north  point  of 
the  ifland.  There  is  likewife  very  fafe  anchoring  a  little  to 
the  weft  of  Ramafa,  in  the  Bay  of  Ifland  Lochofcalr,  (Ofcar's 
Ifland),  by  Buchanan  termed  Mohch^fcair^  where  veiTels  of 
any  burden  can  conveniently  ride  in  ^  pre^y  fafe  road,  and 
free  of  any  breakers. 

MUiit^  ^jutrrksy  ^^-^^Several  appearances  of  lead  mines 
are  to  be  found  in  Appin :  Only  one  of  them  was  attempted  to 
be  wrought,  but  it  did  not  turn  out  to  any  advantage.  There 
is  fome  appearance  of  marble  in  Appin ;  but  the  flate  quarry 
of  Bailichelifli,  at  Laroch  in  Glenco,  is  the  only  quarrv  of  this 
nature  in  the  pariih  that  has  turned  out  to  any  material  ad- 
vantage •.    There  arc  a  great  number  of  hands  at  work  % 

and 

f  There  are  74  families  in  the  qoarry,  containing  328  fouls^ 


500  StatyHctd  Aacma 

and  a  giMt  quantity  of  flatet  are  ttnt  fearly  to  the  nordi  a&J 
cafi  conntricfi  to  Leithi  Clyde,  England,  Irelapd»  and  cvea 
to  America.  Veilets  of  any  burden  can  load  moft  coshbo- 
dioufly  in  fint  fnK>orh  fand,  fo  near  the  fliore,  that  diey  oiay 
be  loaded  by  throwing  a  few  planks  betweoi  the  ircflela  aad 
the  Ihore ;  and  there  it  little  ct  no  fweH  in  the  road.  The 
quality  of  the  flates  is  thought  very  good.  Bomhig  of  Bine 
for  fale  has  been  begun  by  adventured  in  Liftnore  add  Ap- 
pin;  and,  as  the  Hme  is  of  a  moft  fuperior  quality^  this  mi* 
dertakii^g  might  turn  out  to  adirantage,  not  only  to  the  ad- 
Tentuxm,  but  to  the  puUie  at  lav^i  as  an  eticooragcawnt  to 
building,  hulbandry,  Sec.  were  it  not  Ibr  the  check  given  to 
k  by  the  coal  duty. 

Advantages  and  Dtfa^hantages. — ^Tho  principal  advantage  is 
thefe  part<hea  is  the  vaft  extent  of  fea^coaftt  vkh  bays  and 
inlets.  The  fnow  fcIJom  lies  deep  or  long,  on  the  fea-ooft, 
a  cirtumftlnce  highly  favourable  to  flieep  and  black  cattk. 
The  good  roads  and  brldgei  in  Appin  ai^  of  great  and  general 
utility.  Peats  are  the  common  fuel  of  the  country,  but  they 
take  up  the  very  bcft  pirt  of  the  feaibii  to  fimire  them.  The 
freciuent  rains  here  often  deftroy  ibme  of  Ais  part  of  the  &r. 
mer's  induftry.  The  high  duty  on  coals  is  the  greateft  dif- 
advantage  theft  parilhes  labours  under,  and  prove  an  Bnlor'> 
mountable  bar  to  manufactures  and  improvements  of  all  forts. 
The  want  of  public  eftabli(hed  markets  is  likewife  a  great  dif- 
advantage.  A  ton  of  coals  cofts  from  tB  s.  to  2i  s.  and  24  s. 
The  duty  on  fait  is  likewife  a  great  grievance,  as  managed  at 
prefent,  and  requires  to  be  remedied.  The  trouble  of  preparing, 
and  the  time  confumed  by  the  inhabitants  in  fecurlng  their  foe), 
in  Lifmore  in  particular,  where  attention  to  thenr  crops  and  til- 
lage, would  take  up  all  the  hdxMir  Ihey  could  fpare,  is  a  mod 
ferious  grievance^  and  to  be  remedied  only  by  w  alteration 

ui 


^  Lifm^e  and  A^bu  $%% 

tm  At  coal  dtttj.  Tim  is  an  objeA  of  higli  national  conccftit 
ip  which  the  gentlemen  of  property  are  moft  deeply  intcw 
rofted^  and  to  whi^»  it  is  hopedi  thej  will  pay  pardcular  at«t 
tention }  and,  if  they  wiih  that  thefe  conntries  fboiiid  ever 
aum  out  to  any  proper  account  in  the  way  of  mannfae* 
turet,  tillage,  or  any  other  improyements,  they  (hould  alt 
unite  as  one  man  to  endeavour  to  rectify  this  grievance,  and 
get  their  country  r^ved  from  fo  unhappy  a  nuifincc. 

MifalUneous  Oiftnfaiitmi.^^Thete  Is  a  remarkable  echo 
near  the  Bifliop^s  o)d  caftle  at  Achinduin :  It  repeats  diftin^ 
ly  feven  or  eight  fyllaUes.  There  is  another  at  an  old  caAlo 
m  Kinger)ocb|  much  the  fame  as  the  above.  There  are  live 
difierent  remains  or  ruins  of  old  caftles  in  thefe  parilhes.  Oa 
the  (both  fide  of  Lifmore,  oppofite  to  Oban,  there  ftands  M 
afaiaU  ifland,  (EiUeanna  cleich),  a  curious  rock,  covered  ifi 
part  with  ivy,  and  perfiiAly  refembling  the  ruins  of  an  old 
houfe.  Mr  Pennant  was  fb  firuck  with  its  romantic  appear- 
ance, that  he  made  it  the  firontifpiece  to  the  laft  volume  of 
kis  travels.  Several  eftates  in  thefe  pariflies  have  been  re- 
gularly furveyed  i  but  where  there  are  fo  many  proprietors, 
and  the  whole  not  furveyed,  it  is  impoffible  to  afcertain  thei 
number  of  acres* 

The  people  in  this  parifii  are,  in  general,  laborious  and  in« 
duftrious.  Crimes  of  an  enormous  nature  are  hardly  known 
here.  No  Inftance  of  fuidde,  or  of  murder,  has  occurred 
for  25  years  pad.  The  common  people  are  lels  addi£lcd  to 
drinking  than  they  were  ao  years  ago.  All  ranks  are  remark- 
able for  their  charity  to  the  poor.  In  fevere  feafons,  many  of 
them  double  their  attention  to  relieve  the  wants  of  the  needy. 
No  inhabitant  of  thefe  extenfive  parilhes  has  been  executed 
or  banlihed  for  25  years  paft»    One  or  two  perfons,  guilty 

of 


SM  Stati^ical  AceowU 

of  fiune  irregularities,  voluntarily  banilhed  theinfelvcs.  Time 
ioM  been  no  inftance  of  child  murder  in  the  parifli  in  the 
memory  of  man.  This  is  a  crime  hardly  known  in  the  weft 
Highlands.  The  people  ia  this  part  are  much  lefs  floOuat- 
ing  in  their  rdigtons  opinions  than  they  are  to  the  ibath- 
ward: 


A  man  of  fingolar  frame  was  bom  in  Appin*  He  was  the 
ftonteft  or  thickeft  man  in  Britaini  or  even  perhaps  in  £o- 
Bopei  at  the  time«  His  name  was  Carmichad.  He  was  a 
fiddler  in  the  4ad  regiment,  and  died  above  30  years  ago. 
He  was  faid  to  be  not  above  fix  fieet  high ;  but  was  fo  fingo- 
lar for  the  ftontnefs  of  his  maket  that  his  portrait^  as  large 
as  the  li£ei  was  painted,  by  order  of  the  Klng»  and  placed  in 
the  Tower  of  London  as  a  curiofity.  He  was  noted  iar  the 
Biildnefs  of  his  difpofition.  He  could  carry  on  his  bock,  with 
caie»  I  cwt.  more  than  the  ftrongeft  porter  in  DuUm. 


NUM. 


?N  U  M  B  £  R     LUL 

PARISH    OF   MEIGLE. 

£y  tie  Riv.  Dr  James  Platfair» 


Situation  and  Extent. 

TH  E  parilh  of  Meigle,  in  the  center  of  Strathmore,  it 
bounded  on  the  north- weft  and  north  by  the  riven  of 
lila  and  Dean ;  on  the  eaft  and  fouth  by  the  parifhes  of  £flay> 
Nevay,  and  Ncwtylc ;  on  the  fouth-wcft  and  weft  by  thofe  of 
Kctins  and  Coupar ;  lying  in  56°  36'  N.  latitude,  and  /  E. 
longitude  from  Edinburgh  \  being  4^  miles  from  S.  W.  to 
N*  £.  and  1 — a  miles  broad. 

Strathmore — ^Is  an  extcnfive  plain,  reaching  from  the  vici- 
nity of  Perth  to  Brechin,  almoft  40  miles  long,  and  4—6 
broad,  bounded  by  two  ridges  of  mountains.  The  fouth 
ridge,  called  Sidla,  extends  from  Perth  eaftward  to  Red-head, 
a  promontory  on  the  coaft  of  the  German  Ocea%  between 
Arbroath  and  Montrofe.  The  Grampians  form  the  northern 
boundary,  and  traverie  the  ifland.  The  elevation  of  feveral 
mountains  on  the  borders  of  the  Strath  has  been  afcertained 
by  barometrical  meafurement,  as  follows :  DunCnnan-hill,  on 
which  a  caftle  or  fort  was  ere£{ed  by  Macbeth,  10x4  J  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  fea  at  low  water  mark  \  King-feat,  % 
mile  eaftward,  1238  feet}  the  meridian  mark  of  Belmont, 

7S9 


504  StatlftlaU  Aiimmt 

759  feet ;  Kinporme-hill)  noted  for  a  tower  on  its  {timmif, 
3  miles  S.  E.  of  Belmont,  1 151  feet ;  Sidla-hiD,  a  mile  S.  E« 
of  Kinparniei  1406  feet^  Barry-hill,  on  the  oppofite  border 
of  the  Strath,  3  miles  northward  of  Belmooc,  688  feet.  This 
level  and  fertile  Strath  is  beautifnllj  diverfified  with  planta- 
tions of  trees,  cukivaced  fields,  towns,  villages,  and  feats : 
But  ieveral  coofiderable  tra^  are  fiill  barren,  and  covered 
with  heath. 

iifti^/— The  river  Ida  hos  its  iburce  in  the  Grampian 
Mountains,  feveral  miki  northward  of  Mount  Blair:  Bathing 
the  foot  of  that  mountain,  it  turns  eaftward,  travedes  loogi- 
todmally  the  narrow  valley  of  Glenifla,  below  which  it  forms 
a  cafcade,  called  the  Reekj  Linn,  upwards  of  30  feet  high. 
Afterwards,  proceeding  through  a  deep  and  rocky  channel,  it 
is  augpnented  by  two  fmall  fircams  at  the  bafe  of  a  rocky  penin- 
fiila,  on  which  lie  the  ruins  of  Airly  Caftle,  which  was  antient« 
lynilrong  fortrefs,  conftru£led  at  different  periods,  and  deoiQ- 
liihed  during  the  Commonwealth.  Thence  the  lila  defcends 
with  rapidity  into  the  plain,  and  runs  fouthward  near  a  plea* 
fant  feat  formerly  called  Ruthven,  now  IflaFbank.  Suddenly 
changing  the  direction  of  its  courfe  to  W«  S.  W.  it  flowly 
moves,  in  a  winding  paflage,  through  a  flat  country,  which 
it  frequently  inundates,  receives  the  Ericht  two  miles  north 
of  Cupar,  and  falls  into  the  Tay  at  Kincleven.  There  are 
three  bridges  on  the  Ifla  i  one  between  the  lower  extremity 
of  Glenifla  and  Airly  Caftle  i  another  near  the  church  of 
Ruthven ;  and  a  third  a  mile  N.  W.  of  Cupar.  In  the 
neighbourhood  of  Meigle,  there  is  a  ferry*boat  on  the  Ula, 
in  the  road  from  Dundee  to'Alyth.  Several  attempts  have 
been  made  to  raife  L.  800  for  building  a  bridge  at  that  £er« 
sy;  but  thefe  have  been  hitherto  fruftraupd  by  the  focieties 
who  fverepeculiarly  interefted  in  their  fu£ce&    In  r»ny  fea- 

foo% 


^  Meigle^  505 

ibasy  theilfla  and  Ericht  prove  very  prqudicial  to  the  adja« 
cent  fields.  lacreaied  by  man/  rapid  torrents,  they  oTerflaW 
their  bahks>  and  romttimesy  with  refiftlels  fbrce^  fweep  away 
whole  harveftsy  and  ruin  *<  the  wcU  earned  treafures  of  th« 
M  labouring  year." 

The'  Dean  flows  from  the  lake  of  Fqrfiur,  pafics  by  Glammis 
Caftkt  ia  oleanders  glides  gently  along  the  north  bordevs 
«f  E&y  and  Meiglr,  and  lofes  itfelf  in  the  Iflsi  half  a  mile 
M.  N.  W.  of  the  town  of  Meigle.  The  courfe  of  this  river^ 
In  a  direA  line,  does  not  eiceed  w  mSes.  Acrofs  it  is  a 
ikarrow  and  badly  conftruAed  bridge^  in  the  road  from  Cupar 
to  Kirrtasauir. 

A  rivdet  originates  to  Kinpomie-hill,  mns  N.  W.  through 
the  pariih  of  Newtyle,  waters  the  weftcm  part  of  this  pariflif 
and  augmenu  the  Dean  a  mile  above  the  influx  of  that  river 
into  the  Ifla. 

jtnt^ttities.^^Tbore  are  many  remains  of  antiquity  in  this 
pariih  and  neighbourhood!  but^  with  regard  to  thefe,  tra* 
ditioa  gives  us  little  information,  and  antient  records  ftill  lefs^ 
The  accounts  handed  down  through  each  fucceeding  genera 
Cion  are  grofsly  corrupted.  The  tales  and  ftorles  rebted  by 
fabulous  writers  are,  for  the  moft  part,  too  wild  and  extras 
-vagant  to  merit  belief.  Abandoning,  therefore,  all  fuch  le» 
gends  to  tholis  who  can  find  inftruAion  or  entertainment  in 
them,  we  (hall  proceed  to  a  review  of  the  moft  remarkable 
monuments  of  antiquity  in  this  comer,  taking  notice  of  the 
moft  plaofible  conje£hires  concermng  them« 

In  the  JosloTures  of  Belmont  there  is  a  tumulus  called  ^//»« 
iif^  which  tradition  wiU  have  to  be  the  fjpot  where  Macbeth 
i  Vol.  I.  3  »  fottglit 


5^6  SMiJlical  Aecount 

fought  and  fell ;  and,  at  forne  diihnce,  a  ftooe  of  grafuic^ 
ao  tons  in  wt'f.^ht,  (lands  alnioft  trtSk^  to  coiritncmorate^  it  it 
faid,  the  dearh  of  one  of  his  generals  i  Btit  that  tyraDti  it  k 
more  probable^  was  flain  at  Luaiphanan>  a  village  In  theMeams. 

In  the  church- yard  of  Meigle  are  the  remains  of  the  grand 
fepulchral  monument  of  Vanora,  alfo  called  Vanera^  Wanor, 
and  Guinevar,  the  Britifli  Helenai  as  her  na  v.e»  aocording  to 
Prideaoxi  imports.     This  princels  was  the  wife  of  ArthuTy 
.  who  flourifhed  m  the  ^th  century,  and  whole  hiftory  is  in« 
TOlved  in  fables.    In  a  battle  between  the  army  of  that  mo* 
narch  and  the  united  fi»-ces  of  Scots  artd  PiAs,  Vanora  was 
taken  prifoner,  and  carried,  along  with  other  fpoik«  into 
Angus,  where  (he  lived  fome  time  in  nufarable  captivity  on 
Barry-hkll*  -  Such  is  the  doubtful  account  recorded  in  the 
antient  antnrls  of  this  country.    The  cbara£ler  of  that  unfivr- 
tunate  perfonage  has  been  drawn  in'the  blackeft  colours.  She 
has  been  repretented  as  one  who  led  a  lafcivlous  life,  aod  held 
an  unlawful  corrdjpondence  with  Mordred,  a  Pifiilh  king, 
which  provoked  the  jealoofy  of  her  huiband,  and  excited  him 
to  take  up  arms  in  revenge  of  the  injury.     As  a  punifliment 
of  her  enornious  crime*;,  It  is  added,  (he  Was  torn  in  pieces 
by  wild  beafh  |  her  body  was  burted  at  Meigle,  and  a  menu- 
nient  ereAed  to  t)erpetiiate  her  infamy;     Whether  thn  detail 
be  i^enuine,  or  has  arifen  from  theTymbdic  characters  on  the 
ftonesi  it  is  impoffibk  to  determine* 

That  monument  feems  to  have  been  campoied  of  many 
Aon«3s  artfiiliy  joined,  and  drcorated  with  a  variety  of  hiero- 
glyphical  or  fymbolical  charaders^  moft  of  which  arc  of  the 
moriftrous  kmdy  and  reprtrtent  Ti&s  of  violence  on  the  perfon 
of  a  woman.  On  one  ftone  afc  three  fmall  croflcs,  whh  many 
animals  above  and  below.    On  another  is  a  cro&  adorned 

wiJi 


o/Meigle.  ^07 

with  various  flowers,  and  the  rude  re prclentarioiM  of  fiflies^ 
beails,  and  men  on  horfcrack.  On  a  third  is  an  open  cha« 
riot  drawn  by  two  horfes,  and  foine  perfons  in  it }  behind  is 
a  wild  beaft  devouring  an  human  form  lying  proftrate  on  the 
earth.  On  a  fourth  is  an  animal  fomewhat  refembling  an 
elephant.  On  another,  8  feet  long^  and  3  feet  3  inches  broad» 
fhinding  upright  in  a  ibcket,  there  is  a  crofs.  In  the  middle 
are  feveral  figures  with  the  bodies  of  horfes,  or  cauicls,  and 
the  heads  of  ferpents  ;  on  each  fide  of  which  are  wild  beafU 
and  reptiles  confiderably  impaired.  On  the  reverie  is  the 
figure  of  a  woman,  attacked  on  all  fides  by  dogs  and  other 
furious  aniiiuiis.  Above  are  feveral  persons  on  horleback, 
with  hounds,  engaged  in  the  chace.  Below  is  a  centaur,  and 
a  ferpent  of  enormous  fize  faftened  on  the  mouth  ot  a  bull. 
Accurate  drawings  of  fhofe  ftones  are  to  be  found  in  lE*en- 
nant's  Tour.  Many  other  ftones,  which  originally  belonged 
to  this  monument,  have  been  carried  off,  or  broken  m  pieces^ 
by  the  inhabitants  oi  this  place.  As  ieveral  of  thole  which 
remain  have  been  removed  from  their  proper  poiition ;  as 
many  of  the  figures  are  de&ced }  and  as  we  are,  in  a  great 
meafure,  unacquainted  with  the  art  of  decyphering  hierogty« 
phics,  the  hiftory  delineated  on  Vanora's  monument  is  now 
irrecoverably  loft.  The  antiquary  may  amufe  himfelf  with 
the  fragments  which  remain  1  but  he  can  icarcely  form  one 
plaufible  coojeAure  with  refpeft  to  their  origmal  meanmg 
and  defign.  I'he  fabulous  fioeee  records  a  tradition  prevail* 
ing  in  his  time,  viz  that,  if  a  young  woman  fhall  walk  over 
the  grave  of  Vanora,  (he  fliall  entail  on  herfelf  perpetual  fte- 
rility.  But,  whatever  apprehenfions  of  this  nature  the  fair 
fex  in  his  time  might  hiv^*  rntcrtatncd.  the  moft  credulous 
^fft  not  now  affraid  oi  making  the  experiment. 

Barry-hiH, 


5oS  Statlftkal  Acccmi 

Barry-kilU  the  fuppofed  place  of  Vanora's  cODfinemcDtt 
merits  fome  defcription.  It  is  one  of  the  Grampians,  i  \  mik 
N.  £•  of  Alyth,  it  commands  an  extenfive  view  of  Strath- 
more,  and  of  feverai  remarkable  hills  in  the  Sidla  range,  viz. 
Dunfinnan,  Kinpuriiie»  Sidla,  Finhaven,  &c.  all  of  which 
miglit  have  been  antiently  ufed  as  watch  towers,  or  places  of 
defence,  Hiftory  informs  us  that  the  PiAs  kept  pofleffioo 
of  Dun-barry,  and  the  adjacent  country,  from  a  remote  pe* 
riod  to  the  9th  century,  or  later ;  but  the  prccife  dates  of 
their  lettlement  in  thole  parts,  and  of  their  cxpidfion,  can- 
not be  alcertained-  The  hill  itfelf  is  of  an  oval  form.  Its 
fummit  was  levelled  into  an  area  180  feet  long,  and  72  or 
74  broad.  Around  the  area  a  mound  of  earth  was  raifcd, 
from  6  to  8  feet  high,  and  10  to  1^  broad  at  top.  On  this 
mound  a  wall  of  fre&>fione  w^s  buUt  without  any  cement 
whatever.  The  foundation  of  the  wall  was  compofed  of 
rough  granite,  and  ftiU  remains.  It  is  of  the  fame  breadth 
with  the  fummit  of  the  mound  \  but  the  height  of  the  wall 
cannot  be  known  :  Gordon's  eftimate  of  it  is  extremely  erro- 
neous. Among  the  ruins  there  are  feverai  pieces  of  vitrified 
fione  s  but  thefe  vitrifications  muft  have  been  accidental,  as 
they  are  few  and  inconfiderable*  Along  the  weft  and  north 
borders  of  the  area,  barracks,  or  huts,  were  built  of  dry  ftone, 
and  fufficiently  (heltered  by  the  mound  and  wall ;  but  no 
firufhires  of  this  (brt  can  be  traced  in  the  fouth  part  of  the 
ai^a.  As  the  north  and  weft  fides  of  the  hill  are  fteep,  and 
of  diflicult  accefs,  there  was  no  need  of  an  outer  ditch  in 
thofe  quarters :  But,  towards  the  fouth  and  eaft,  where  the 
hiU  gently  flopes,  there  is  a  ditch  10  feet  broad,  and  i  a  to  16 
feet  below  the  foundation  of  the  wall.  At  the  S,  £.  extre- 
mity of  the  fort,  a  narrow  bridge  was  raifed  over  the  ditch, 
18  feet  long,  and  2  broad,  except  towards  each  end,  where 
t\t  breadth  was  increafed.    It  was  compofed  of  ftones  laid 

together 


together  without  much  art,  and  vitrified  abdve»  below,  and 
on  both  fides ;  fo  that'  the  whole  maTs  was  firmly  cemented* 
That  an  opening  was  left  below,  after  the  proce(s  was  finiih- 
ed)  is  doubtful.  On  the  upper  part  of  the  bridge  a  ftvatnm 
of  gravel  was  laid,  to  render  the  pafiage  fmooth  and  eaijr. 
This  is  the  fole  part  of  the  fort  intentionally  vitrified.  A  few 
yards  diftant  from  the  ditch,  there  is  an  outer  wall,  the  foun- 
dation of  which  is  about  8  feet  lower  than  the  fummit  of  the 
mound.  The  approach  to  the  fort  is  from  the  N.  £.  along 
the  verge  of  a  precipice ;  and  the  entrance  was  fecurcd  by  a 
bulwark  of  ftone,  the  ruins  of  which  are  extant.  There  is 
no  veftige  of  a  well  within  the  fort;  but,  weftward,  between 
the  bafis  of  the  mound  and  the  precipice,  there  was  a  deep 
pond  or  lalce,  recently  filled  up  by  the  tenants  in  thit  neigh- 
bourhood. About  a  quarter  of  a  mile  eaftward,  on  the  de* 
clivity  of  the  hill»  there  are  fome  remains  of  another  oval 
fort,  of  lefs  extent  than  the  preceding,  confiding  of  a  ftrong 
wall  and  ditch.  Tradition  fays,  that  there  was  a  fubtcrra- 
nean  communication  between  thefe  forts,  which  is  not  iii> 
probable.  From  the  account  now  given,  it  would  appear^ 
1.  That  both  were  conftruAed  before  the  Romans  introduced 
the  art  of  building  ^with  lime  and  other  cement.  2.  Ihat  the 
Pi£U,  and  antient  Scots  had  ftone  edifices,  which  Macpher- 
ibn  is  not  inclmed  to  admit.  3.  That  they  fometimes  vitri- 
fied particular  parts  of  their  forts, '  to  render  them  the  mbre 
durable. 

There  is  n6  veftige  of  a  Roman  highway  in  the  neighbour- 
hood  of  Melgle,  though  traces  of  one  have  been  difcovered 
jn  other  parts  of  the  country.  At  Cupar  are  extant  the  out- 
lines of  a  camp  formed  by  Agricola's  army  in  his  feventh 
year's  expedition.  On  the  praetorium,  Malcolm  IV  by  the 
advice  of  his  grandfather^  founded  an  abbey  for  the  reception 

/af 


5i«    '  Siatijikal  Auomit 

af  Ciftercian  Friarsi  A.  D.  1 1641  and  endowed  it  wkh  a  con- 
fiderable  rcvenne. 

Pepulatm.'^ KYiOMt  a  century  ago,  a  confideraUe  part  of 
this  p'lrifh,  VIZ  the  eftates  of  Kinloch  and  Bamyle,  belonged 
to  that  of  Cupar:  From  a  hft  then  given  in  to  the  'preflif- 
tery  by  the  Bifliop  of  Brechin,  it  appears,  that,  in  Cupar^ 
there  were  8;o  coiTjmunicants,  and  550  in  Meigle.  Accor- 
ding to  the  report  tranlmitted  to  Dr  Wcbftcr,  A.  D.  1739, 
concerning  the  population  f  tiie  Ijttcr»  it  contained  tooo  in- 
habit ints:  But  that  report  was  not  accurate;  for,  though  its 
num:er*'  have  be *n  confiderably  diminifhed  fincc  that  periodi 
it  ri!i  contains  1148,  including  ail  ages  and  denomtnittons, 
Tl.r-rc  are  b6  below  3  years;  165  from  3  to  10 j  269,  10— 
20;  188,  20—305  145,  30^40;  97,  50— 60  J  43,  60—70; 
20,  70 — 80  \  and  8  from  80  to  90. 

Rating  the  entire  number  at  11501  the  proportions  of  cer- 
tain ages  are  nearly  as  follows,  viz  ,'y  below  3  years ;  \  ^^a 
3  to  10;  i,  10— ao5  ^  20— jO;  i,  30— 40  J  I,  40—50; 
1*1 »  50—60  i  ,V>  60 — 70 }  ^,  70—80  J  and  ^^  from  80  to 

In  1 148  inhabitantSi  there  are  37  unmarried  perfons  of 
both  fezes  who  have  houfes ;  163  married  pairs ;  42  of  both 
iexes  in  widowhood ;  and  242  families  ;  fo  that  the  number 
of  widowed  perfons  of  both  iexes  is  to  that  of  married  pairs 
as  1  to  4  nearly.  There  are  bom  annually  3*7-1^^  children ; 
viz,  lo^VV  (Stales,  and  1  -  /^  ^^niales :  So  that  6^  families 
nearly,  produce  1  child  a  year.  The  proportion  of  the  births 
to  thar  of  the  whole  Inhabttauts  is  as  l  to  30,^^  There  Vt 
7/^  marriages  annually. 

The 


'  The  fnroptrtrM  of  peribns  who  die  at  certain  ages  every  y^ar  it 
as  follows,  viz.  9  below  3  years  \  x/^ from  3  to  10  ;'2»  10— ao  \ 
aA»  ao— 305  at  30— 4»i  2,Vi  40—50$  3iV»  SO— 6pi  3/^ 
<So— » 70 }  3/79  70*— 80  y  I  from  80  to  90 :  In  all  3 1,  or  yV  of 
the  whole  mhahuxits.  The  proportion  of  females  to  males 
who  die  yearly  is  td  to  15 ;  the  reverie  of  what  is  ufuallf 
ftated  in  bills  of  mortality.  The  proportion  of  births  to  deatbt 
is  38  to  31  nearly. 

The  whole  pariih  is  divided  among  eight  proprietors.  The 
valued  rent  is  L.  4200: 17 :  a  Scots  j  and  the  real  rent  k  . 
about  fix  times  chat  fon. 

Tcwm^  b'r.  —There  is  no  town  or  village  of  any  note  ia 
the  parjfh.  .  Meigle,  an  antient,  inconfiderable,  meanly  built^ 
market  town,  coataining  2-fi  inhabitants,  is  pleafantly  fitua^ 
ted  on  a  rivulet  of  the  fame  name,  in  the  center  of  the  pa« 
ri(h,  at  the  interfeAion  of  two  turnpike  roads,  1 2  miles  N,  W# 
of  Dundee,  6\  N.  £.  of  Cupar,  wai  si  S.  W.  of  Glammis. 
The  weekly  market  is  on  Wednefday.  Aimual  fairs  are  held 
on  the  laft  Wednefday  of  June  and  of  October.  Meigk  waa 
a  village,  and  burying  place,  before  the  iptroduAion  of  Chri& 
ttanity,  as  appears  from  fome  fepulchral  naonuments  and  tomb- 
ftooes  lately  found  In  the  walls  of  the  church. 

S/tf/x.^—There  are  three  feats,  in  the  moft  advantageous  .£U 
tuations;  and  two  of  them  are  in  good  repair.  Belmont 
Caftle,  a  modehi  edifice,  ftands  on  a  gentle  eminence,  204 
feet  above  the  level  of  half  flood  mark  at  P^nbride,  and  conU 
maflds  an  exteafive  view  of  the  plain.  Fmiflied  in  the  neat- 
eft  and  moft  commodious  manner,  it  contains  a  confiderable 
number  of  elegant  apartments,  with,  a  library  confiding  of  a 
feiait  colle^ion  of  books,  chiefly  mathematical,  daflical,  and 

hifiorica|^ 


ffd  Statical  Aumm 

hiftorical,  of  the  beft  editions.  The  obiervitoiy,  on  ui  :i4* 
joinifig  la^i^t  is  io  56^  35' N.  latitode»  and  3^  11'  15''  W. 
longitude  from  the  royal  obiervatory  at  Greenwich.  Ths 
gardens  and  fine  inclofuresi  with  which  this  place  is  fivrbund^ 
cd,  confpire  to  render  it  the  mofi  dcUghtful  refidence  in 
fitrathmore.  Dnimkilbo  and  Kinloch  acepleafandj  fitnafetd: 
But  the  latter  is  in  a  ruinous  condition* 

Church. — Meigle  is  the  feat  of  a  prefbyterjr,  containing  13 
pariflies,  in  the  fynod  of  Angus  and  Mearna.  Formerly  it 
was  annexed  to  the  fee  of  Duakdd,  Several  of  the  BiOicfw 
of  that  diocefe  refided  here  \  and  two  of  thenit  vie*  James 
Nicolfon  and  William  Lindfay,  were  interred  in  the  church. 
The  Hrlt  prefbyterian  clergyman  was  Mr  Millar,  who  bring 
sranilated  to  the  Grayfriars  in  Edinburgh*  A.  D.  17091  was 
fiicceeded  br  David  Thompfon,  who  fcrved  the  cure  47  years. 
His  iucceflbr,  Alexander  Scot»  was  removed  from  Kingol* 
drum  to  this  place  A.  D.  17571  and  died  in  November  1776* 
In  the  year  following,  Dr  James  Playfair,  the,  prefent  iiicun>- 
bent,  was  tranflated  from  Newtyle.  The  ftipend  of  this  pa- 
ri(h  is  9  chalders  of  vl£htal,  and  about  L.  4  Sterling  vicarage. 
The  King  is  patron.  The  greater  part  of  the  ftipend  of 
Donketd  is  paid  out  •f  this  pariih.  The  church  was  lately 
rebuilt,  and  the  manfe  is  in  tolerable  repair.  On  all  occa* 
fions  the  heritors  have  exprefied  their  alacrity  in  gnnting 
whatever  b  necef&cyto  the  fupport  of  thefe  fabrics. 

ScbvoL'^Thc  parochial  {<  hool  is  endowed  with  a  falary  of 
L.'  106  Scots,  befides  a  dwelling* lioufe  :ind  fmall  garden. 
The  pptfics  and  emoluments  arifing  from  45  fcholars  are 
about  L  16  a  vfar.  The  fti'ion-clerk^  fee  is  L.  1  :  10  :o, 
ana  Ills  pcrquaites  l*.  a  :  10  :  •.    The  prefent  incumbent,  by 

age 


pfMelgh.  513 

^e  incaptcittted  from  teachisg,  the  cdncttion  of  the  700th 
bas,  for  Ibme  time  paft,  been  committed  to  an  afliftant. 

lff^foiMiM&«-4uiee  the  year  174;,  a  fortunate  epoch  for 
Bcotland  in  generali  improvements  have  been  carried  on  with 
great  ardonr  and  focceff*  At  that  timet  the  ftate  of  this  coiin« 
cry  was  rude  beyond  conception*  The  moft  fertile  traAs  were 
wmilc>  or  hidiffiarently  cultivated,  and  the  bulk  of  the  inhabi- 
tants werd  nncivilioed.  The  education,  manners,  drels,  fur- 
niture^ and  uble,  of  the  gentry,  were  not  fb  liberal,  decent, 
and  liimptuons,  as  thole  of  ordinary  farmers  at  prefent.  The 
common  people,  clothed  in  the  coarfefl  garb,  and  (hmring 
on  the  meancft  fiffe,  lived  in  deffncable  huts  with  their 
cattle. 

The  half  ploughed  fidds  jvAAioi  fcanty  crops,  and  ma^ 
nTi£i£faires  fiarcely  exifted*  Almoft  every  improvement  in 
^riculture  b  of  a  late  date}  for  no  ground  was  then  fid« 
lowedi  no  peale,  graft,  turnip,  or  potatoes,  were  railed  1 
no  cattle  were  £ittened,  and  little  grain  was  exported.  Oats 
and  barley  were  alternately  fowni  and,  during  feven  months 
in  the  year,  Che  bed  foil  was  ravaged  by  flocks  of  iheep,  a 
certidn  number  of  which  were  annually  (old,  and  carried  off 
to  be  fied  in  richer  paftures. 

The  InaAivity  and  uidolence  of  tenants  were  albni(hiog« 
When  feed-time  was  fioiflied,  the  plough  and  harrow  were 
laid  afide  till  auttuin  \  and  the  fole  employment  of  a  farmer 
and  his  ferva&ts  confifted  in  weeding  hb  com  fields,  and  in 
diggmg  and  conveying  home  peat,  turf,  and  heath,  for  win* 
ter  fiid*  The  produce  of  a  farm,  holding  a  proportion  to 
thole  e«rtionS|  vras  barely  fuflScient  to  enaUe  the  tenant  to 

Vot,  I.  3  T  pay 


J 1 4  Statifiicaf  Affouni 

pay  Kis  trifl-n^  refit  and  flSrTiilA  Wa^es,  and  tOfvooBt & 
his  family  a  fcanty  fubfiftcnc^  .  .     .    - 

Th^  rent  of  an  acre  of  inRM  Was  8— ^f  :p.  ?  and  oC  or- 
ficld  2 — 5  s.  The  wa^es  of  a  riialc  ftrvain^  were  JL  i  J  lo  :o, 
or  L.  I  :  15  :  o ;  of  a  female,  12 — I  j's.  TKc  price  of  ait  hcrk 
L.  4  :  6  : 6 ;  of  an  ox  L.  2  yof  a  (beep  5  s. ;  oif -1  bco  4 1; 
of  a  dozen  eggs  id.  A  cart  or  coup  14  s  ;  a  pibbgfk  ^  s.; 
an  harrow  ^d. ;  and  other  ntenfils  ot  hnfband^  neariy  a 
the  fame  proportion  to  the  prefent  rates.  *     *• 

To  emancipate  the  inhabitants  of  this  country  firorti  a  ftatr 
of  barbarifmi  and  to  roufe  a  (]3irit  of  raduftry,  was' a  bdid  aod 
arduous  entcrprife.  A  gentleman,  diftinguilhed  by  his  noi, 
fortune,  and  public  fpirit,  undertook  and  accompliihed  the 
laik.  With  a  zeal  and  perfeverance  becoming  an  enltghtco- 
ed  and  liberal  mind,  he  formed  plahs  of  improvement,  inclo- 
fed  farms  wlt&  proper  fences,  baniOied  flieep  from  infidd 
grounds,  combated  the  prejudices  of  his  tenants,  furbiOicd 
them  with  marl,  diftributed  premiums,  and  otherwife  re- 
warded their  exertions.  The  good  effeAs  of  thofc  mca/ora 
ibon  appeared  ;  and  other  proprietors  imitated  the  example. 
In  a  few  years,  improvements  wer6  diffiifed  through  the 
whole  country.  The  tenants,  as  if  awaked  out  of  a  profouod 
fleep,  looked  around,  beheld  his  fields  clothed  with  the  rich- 
eft  harvef><t^  his  Kerds  fattening  in  luxuriant  paftures, '  his  fa-, 
roily  decked  in  gay  attire,  his  table  loaded  with  folid  fare, 
and  wondered  at  his  former  ignorance  and  ftupidity.  Tbt 
landlord  rejoiced  in  tl\c  fuccefs  of  his  fchemes,  and  (hared  in 
the  honours  and  profits  of  this  new  ereftion.  The  nianufic- 
turer,  mechanic,  aiid  tr.idcfman,  redoubled  their  efforts  to 
fupply  the  incrcafing  demand  for  the  conveniencies  and  ele- 
gancies of  life. 

In 


j^  Meigle.  5K5 

In  thispari/h  coofiderable  improvements  have  been  made» 

X>ut  jDuch  remains  to  be  effeAed.     The  greater  part  of  it  is 

iaclofed  and  fubdividcd  with  hedges  and  hedge- rows ;  but 

two  of  the  proprietors  bei  -g  minors,  their  tenants  have  not 

fufficient  encouragemept  to  proceed  with  vigour.     The  foil^ 

in  general,  is  a  fioe^  black  mold  on  a  bottom  of  mortar,  and 

yields  excellent  crops  of  wheat,  barley,  oats,  turnip,  flax,  and 

grafs.     About  eight  years  ago,  the  author  of  this  memoir 

procured  a  few  grains  of  oats  of  an  excellent  quality,  but  un« 

linown  in  this  country.     During  the  firft  three  years  he  fow* 

«d  them  in  his  garden^,  and  afterwards  in  his  glebe.     The  in* 

creafe  has  been  confiderable  \  for  laft  year,  viz.  A.  D.  1 7909 

there  were  upwards  of  500  bolls  of  them  in  the  neighbour* 

hood.  They  are  1 7  ftones  Engliih  per  boll,  are  feveral  weeks 

earlier  than  the  common  oats,  and  are  not  liable  to  be  fhakea 

by  the  wind      There  are  9  farms  in  this  pariQi,  from  L.  50  to 

L.  200 ;  about  ao  from  L.  20  to  50  \  the  reft  are  inconlide- 

rable.* 

The  rent  of  the  infield,  i.  e.  qf  four-fifths  of  the  whole,  is 
I  J*— 30S.  'per  acre.  The  hire  of  a  day  labourer  is  lod.  or 
I  s.  I  of  a  man  lervant  L.  7  : 9  :  o ;  of  a  female  L.  3.  The 
price  of  beef,  mutton,  and  pork,  3^  d.  and  4  d.  *,  of  a  turkey 
3  s,  6  d, i  of  a  goofc  2  s.  6  d. ;  of  a  hen  lod.  a  dozen  e  gs 
3  d. ;  burter  8  d.  a  pound  of  22  ounces;  cheefe  5  s.  a  ftone, 
fame  weight.  The  prices  of  wheat,  oats,  barley,  and  meal, 
are  crenerally  regulated  by  the  market  at  Dundee.  Utenfils 
of  hufbandry  are  expeniive.  A  coup  is  L.  8  :  10 :  o  i  a  plough 
L.  I ;  10 :  o^  and  L.  2 :  2  :  o ;  a  harrow  8  s. }  harneis  for  two 
hor(c9  L.  2 :  16  :  o« 

ManufaBuns. — ^llie  principal  roanufaAure  in  this  corner 
is  linens  There  are  91  weavers  in  the  parifli,  who  work  every 

week 


ri6  Statj/Hfal  /I^Mmt 

week  about  4000  yards,  the  profit  arifingfipom  vlucli  It  L.  Sf* 
A  fta^Y^p-officewateftabliihed  here  federal  yean  ago.  bdie 
year  1788,  i47fOi4  yards  of  doth  were  fiamped  at  this  oC 
ficei  in  17891  150,174  yards  I  and  in  1790*  136,5)98  yards. 
The  Unen  mannfiiAured  here  is  of  a  (iiperior  qoalifyi  ud 
nfed  chiefly  for  backranit  hat  linings,  ftc« 

PeQr.^Jn  a  comer  of  the  country  where  a  fpah  cEhndA 
try  pervades  every  rank,  there  muft  be,  in  proportion,  fiv 
objefb  of  charit]^.  At  prefent,  there  are  from  fix  to  eight 
on  the  pooPs  lift;  and  the  necdSities  of  tfaefe  are  rdievcd 
accordbg  to  the  judgment  and  difcretion  Of  the  members  of 
feflion.  About  50  yean  ago,  the  monthly  colb&ions  lor  the 
poor  were  7  s.  9  d«  $  30  years  ago,  they  amonnted  to  14  s. ; 
and  are  now  L.  i :  10 :  o.  In  the  year  1 782^  the  ftus  re- 
ceived, and  thofe  diftributed  in  charity,  were  nearly  e^oaL 
The  public  fond  is  confiderable,  and  adequate  to  any  exi- 
gence. 

The  principal  diladvantage  under  which  tUs  parifli  and 
the  neighbourhood  labouV,  b  their  great  diftance  from  pro- 
per focU  The  lower  clafs  are  indifierently  fupplied  with 
peat  or  turf  from  mofles  In  the  vicinity  |  and  the  reft  with 
coal  from  Dundee.  The  expence  of  the  carriage  of  coal  is 
nearly  equal  to  the  original  price:  But  this  diladvantagp 
might,  in  a  great  meafure,  be  removed  by  a  navigable  ca- 
nal. 

Camil. — About  30  years  ago,  a  merdiant  in  this  oomer,  a 
man  of  uncommon  fagacity  and  enterprife,  apprehending  the 
utility  of  a  canal  through  Strathmore,  found  means  to  pro- 
cure a  furvcy  of  its  courfc  from  Perth  towards  Forfar,  to- 
gether With  an  eftimate  of  the  expence  ^  But  the  plan  he  had 

copccivedi 


conceived  being  on  too  large  a  fcaTe,  ud  Smprotemente  md 
xDanu£i£h]res  bdng  then  in  their  infimcy,  die  defign  was  bid 
afide.  The  ntiUtj  and  praAicableiiefi  of  a  canal  between 
Perth  and  Forfar  will  appear  from  thelbBawii^remarkt; 
I.  The  whole  extent  of  its  conrfe  woold  be  about  36  miles^ 
throngh  a  tolerablj  level  and  fiertile  conntrj.  a*  Its  greateft 
elevation^  at  the  eaftem  extremity,  woold  not  exceed  229 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  £».  3.  A  channel  15  feet  broad^ 
and  6  dccp»  with  recefles  at  certain  intervals,  and  22  loda^ 
might  be  fofficient.  4.  From  the  higher  grounds  many  ri- 
vulets and  fmall  ftreams  deicend }  and  by  thefe  it  would  be 
amply  fupplied  with  water.  5.  The  neareft  port  towns  are 
Perth  and  Dundee,  diftant  12-— 18  miles.  6.  From  thofe 
places,  coal,  lime»  foreign  wood,  and  merchandlfe,  are  at 
prefent  conveyed  by  land  carriage.  And  cloth,  barley,  &c. 
are  traafpprted  thither  in  the  fame  way.  7.  An  extent  of 
country,  35  miles  long,  and  6  broad,  containing  upwards  of 
ao,ooo  InhaUtants,  would  derive  eflential  benefit  from  a 
canal.  Ufefbl  and  practicable,  however,  as  the  plan  may  ^ 
pear,  the  fituation  of  the  Strath,  with  regard  to  the  port  towns 
already  mentioned^  and  the  expence  to  be  incurred,  will,  it 
is  to  be  feared,  for  ever  prevent  fuch  an  undertaking  from 
bemg  carried  into  execution.  For  the  fum  rcquifite  to  the 
conftmAion  of  a  canal  cannot  be  eftimated  at  Jeft  than 
JL  28,000  or  L.  30,0001  nor  the  bnd  carriage  of  22  pa- 
riihes  in  its  neighbourhood  at  more  than  L.  1100  ferofi* 
num*  A  veflel  might  convey  by  water  50  tons  i  that  is,  at 
much  weight  as  125  horles  could  carry  by  land  from  Perth 
or  Dundee*  But,  unlefi  the  w^ter  carriage  were  rated  at 
71.  6  df  per  ton,  competent  intereft  could  not  be  had  for 
the  original  fum  expended  on  the  outtl ;  and,  if  the  caiv 
riage  by  water  were  fo  highly  rated,  the  greater  part  of  the 
inbabitjints  would  rather  convey  their  commodities  by  land. 

The 


^%  Staii/Hcal  Jam^^  l^c. 

Jlhe  moft.  tSEt£t\B\  oocUkkI  of  removing  this  bsr  would  be 
^fVoluntaryxontributioQ  of  the  proprietors,  who^  id  (voceg 
(^tiqieit  wouUl  ,110.  doub^  be,  indemnified  bj  an  incrcaie  ce 
th$  valoiq  of  their  qftatcs. 


Jw  CND  OP  TliS  riEST  VOtOMK. 


1 


-.r\'*  .,  'vrv-^X  ':^^'^.'-^  -.^:;';A'-  ■v^c^/^^,;^K  V,''  v',.^    ..  -  .  .  ^^    '^