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SUCCESS
WITH HENS

By
ROBERT JOOS

CHICAGO
FORBES & COMPANY
1919

[™ PREFACE

Everyspopy should be interested in a proposition
which offers to the man or woman with limited
means a chance to produce an article of food at a
cost far below the market price, and, as a rule, of
superior quality. The greater number of people are
progressive enough not to let such opportunities pass
by unheeded, and they are bound to take advantage
of the opportunities possible in poultry raising.
What. other article of food which can be produced
in a limited space offers as many varied forms of
use as eggs? Eggs can take the place of meat, in
fact, they are more healthful, and just as nourishing.
It is a food that is recommended for the weak and
the strong, for the workers and the invalids, for the
old and the young, and for every one at all times
and in every clime.

When one takes into consideration the limited
space and capital necessary to equip a plant suff-
ciently large to supply the largest family with fresh

eggs the year around, one cannot help but feel that |

the keeping of poultry should appeal forcibly to
every one who has the opportunity. True, some are
so situated that the keeping of poultry is impossible,
but these are much in the minority. Even people
living in flats, in large cities, very often have some

=

6 PREFACE

little yard space which could be utilized for the
poultry pens. I know of cases where poultry has
been kept successfully upon flat roofs. I have every
reason to believe the vast majority of families are
so situated that they can keep hens, or, better still,
to make the hens help keep them, and I am also of
the firm opinion that it offers to them the oppor-
tunity to materially reduce the cost of living. This_
opinion is also shared by the many thousands who
are now doing this very thing, and who are in a
position to speak from practical experience.

Most any one can keep a small flock of hens in
the back yard and make it profitable, but when it
comes to embarking in the poultry business on a
large scale it requires some knowledge, some experi-
ence, and some business judgment on the part of
the operator or manager. A person without these
qualifications or who is not in a position to employ
some one with such qualifications should not at-
tempt too much, but should start in a small way and
let the business grow with the experience.

CONTENTS

CHAPTER PAGE
I. Profit and Pleasure With Poultry.. 11

II. Common Sense Necessary........ 18

Pia Mvcthod: To Be: Usediiiic oes es 22

ee Startimo in Sprine See ei ie eal 26

Pea estantine ti Ball oe eo aul. 30

4 Ma tary Tatching 7...) os 5. | hureiase 37
itr agin Pertility cu so ua iy oles 4I
Miho Aerife (EPACCHIN ea! Si cl. sil ak di Siete AS
i) Utility. and Faney Poultry...0. 0... 49

me) Convenient’ Honipment.. 2/005). 53

Pee Natural Incubations 10) Souk es 57

mat. Artificial ‘Ineubation. 0) y 030665. 63
merely Artificial Brooding 0... 2... 0°. 70
Pay) (Development: of Chicks yoy 3c 0. 78
Boy. | Weaning of @ hicks). sis sals cd 82
XVI. Feeding the Growing Stock....... 86
Pe iiiding the Hames 0h). 608.) 89

7

8

CHAPTER

XVIII.
XTX.
XX.
XXII.
XXIT.
XXIII.
XXIV.

XXV.
XXVL.
My iL.
XXVIII.
bO.Gle, 0
POOe
XXL.
OX
YOOIGON
KRRIV.
XX KV,
XXKVIE
PORE EL

CONTENTS

PAGE
Constitutional Vigor... .. 2/7 4gan 92
Summer Management.........11 >) OR
Building Up a Laying Strain...... 103
Winter Egg Production.......... 112
Overcrowdiag (0. 20 o ee 117
Advantages of Small Flocks...... I2I

Intensive and Extensive Poultry
Parming i300 2) 124
Proper Ventilation...) 030s 130
Why Hens Don't) Lay...) 136
Breaking Up a Broody Hen....... 138
A General Overhauling... ....027% 140
Inferior Food.) 0.35559 144
Supplying Green Foods. (2.7) aaae 147
General Feeding... )./.. 0 2a I51
Marketing and Grading Eggs...... 154
Fattening—Killing—Marketing ... 159
Lice—Mites—Fleas .............. 164
Causes, of Disease. . i: 0.1)... 171
Bowel Trouble ‘im Chicks ) 00a 174

Lee-Woeaknese 0000 )0y ty Wa em 178

CHAPTER

XXXVIII.
XXXIX.
DL:
XLI.
XLII.
REAL.
XLIV.
XLV.
XLVI.
XLVII.
XLVIII.
XLIX.

CONTENTS | 9

PAGE
Bo sree Wa ae siaiciela tal vali ity s 182
[ely afo fel eel SVU TERY ARMS MAN aG th Aiea SOE ADL 186
Peetidatistay yer rey ese a ae 188
ROBE CAPE rete sedis Gree cetera bl 190
PMD EENEEIE Mar oni sic wes ws ale ulcalans 194
RES Ne eho i a a Ie aus 196
Cholera Mea oe Wath. wars Clana 199
SICH atl Doras MEU NV CEE SNL oh TR va 201
Crop Bomnd perce en ecu ake se 202
AMIE Mens ire tae Cys c(RaM aC seek ty eas 204
Exhibiting Poultry............... 205
Slipping Baby Chicks.c 50700020. 208
Color of Chicks....... ‘ ite nm cies 211
Tote oe ee ae 213
Teasley; Chicks 5 Nios 214
Starlite OVS oe Ook ie ool 216
The Billion Dollar Industry....... 221

Useful Hints for Poultry Raisers.. 224

id
UF

A

SUCCESS WITH HENS

CHAPTER \E

PROFIT AND PLEASURE WITH POULTRY

Pouttry raising offers pleasure, fascination, and
profits to everybody. Any one having any kind of
a lot should keep poultry.

If the figures were at hand to show the number
of families that keep a few hens to furnish eggs
and poultry for the family table it would be some-
thing astounding.

Getting away from the more congested districts
and going out where the dwellers have yard space
at their disposal, one will find back yard flocks almost
everywhere. In such districts poultry is about as
common as cats and dogs, and, of course, considered
much more useful by the owners,

Why do all these people keep poultry? A few
may keep them as pets, something to look at and
admire, but the vast majority keep poultry because
it pays. It means strictly fresh laid eggs at times
when such are scarce and expensive, and with the
absolute assurance that they are fresh.

Aside from this there is a fascination and pleas-
ure in keeping good poultry. I say good poultry,
because I doubt whether any one can take as much

II

12 PROFIT WITH POULTRY

real interest in a flock of scrubs. There is nothing
to admire or breed for in a mixed flock, nor can
anyone get as good results from such a collection.

The average town folks long for something alive,
something that has a touch of nature in it, some-
thing to feed and care for and, last but not least,
something that will furnish them good things to
eat. What is more beautiful than a pen of fowls of
one breed, of one color, of uniform size, and of one
shape, basking in the sun on a bright spring day?
It adds life to the home of the humble cottager as
well as to the more pretentious home of the
suburbanite. |

One who keeps poultry as it should be kept will
derive much enjoyment out of the work and time
put into it. He becomes a poultry fancier; he
studies their habits and endeavors in every way
possible to develop their points of beauty and their
capacity for productiveness; thus doing his share to
improve the domestic fowls.

He takes a lively interest in everything his flock
does, and he soon becomes accustomed to easily de-
tect when anything is wrong with any of them.
He knows the individuality of each specimen, he
learns the habits of every one, and discovers the
shortcomings which must be overcome, if possible,
in the future generation.

The interest in his little backyard flock grows on
him, and he can hardly wait until his daily work is

PROFIT WITH POULTRY 13

over to be home with his hens. He becomes a poul-
try enthusiast and the work he does in caring for
the flock seems easy; in fact, he no longer regards
it as work, but as a pastime and recreation. The
poultry keeps him at home and he no longer goes
out to look for other enjoyment which may cost
money and do him no good.

The expense of keeping a small flock is little. The
table scraps from any ordinary family will go far
towards keeping a dozen or more hens. To this,
of course, must be added a little grain fed in the
litter each day, and a hopper placed before them at
all times, containing oyster shells, grit, and charcoal.

People keep pets around the house which never
bring in a penny, but a hen will always pay her way.
There is lots of pleasure in going out into the hen-
house in the evening and gathering enough real fresh
eggs for breakfast the next morning. Just think
of having eggs for soft boiling which can be de-
pended upon and which have been laid by healthy
hens in a clean, sanitary henhouse! With the proper
care and feeding you can have such eggs in the dead
of winter, when strictly fresh eggs are at a high
price.

_It does not require much room to properly house
and keep a small flock. A space in the back yard
eight by fifteen feet will be plenty of room to house
and yard a flock of twelve or fifteen hens. Even if
confined more closely than that they will do weil,

14 PROFIT WITH POULTRY

providing everything about the place is kept fresh
and clean and the hens are given lots of straw to
exercise in. Nearly everybody handy with tools can
build a neat little henhouse 6x8 or purchase the
portable kind sold by poultry supply houses.

If you should live in a district where the neighbors
do not appreciate the musical notes of the crowing
cock at morn it would be well not to keep any male
birds at all. The hens will lay just as well without
a lord and master to call them to their meals, and
sterile eggs will keep better than those containing a
fertile germ. ‘Those who keep hens in this manner
can purchase baby chicks each spring to keep up their
flocks and kill or dispose of all the crowers as soon
as they show signs of getting boisterous.

Hens closely confined must be given sufficient
exercise in an artificial way, and must have lots of
fresh air. Deep litter feeding and open front houses
will supply both of these necessities. Keep the hens
scratching and keep the henhouse well ventilated.
Fowls in close confinement also must receive a
greater variety of feed, and more care than fowls
which have unlimited range.

Fowls running on range find many things benefi-
cial to them, which must be supplied in some other
form when kept in small inclosures. One of these
things are insects, which find a substitute in beef
scraps, green cut bone, or blood meal. Another
item is grit—poultry on farms find sharp gravel and

PROFIT WITH POULTRY 15

other substances which grind up the grains in the
crops, but those in yards must be constantly supplied
with some good manufactured grit. Then again
hens running in the woods can find sufficient char-
coal, while those penned must be supplied with the
prepared product.

The drinking water is one of the most important
things in connection with intensive poultry raising.
Birds, at large, as a rule, have an opportunity to
obtain clean, fresh water at all times, but those in
confinement are ofttimes neglected in this respect.
It is not only necessary to have water before the
fowls at all times, but such water should be as pure,
clean, and fresh as possible. Stale, impure, dirty
water will breed disease. Not only should water
be drawn fresh at least once a day in win-
ter, and two or three times every day during the
summertime, but the vessels into which this water
is supplied to the flock should be scoured and well
cleaned. Vessels which are not constructed in such
a manner that they cannot be thoroughly cleaned,
or which have any recesses which cannot be reached
with ordinary effort on the part of the operator,
should not be installed in the poultry plant.

Small runways must be well looked after. They
must be kept clean, spaded or raked often, and, if
very small, refilled with fresh loam or ashes. The
latter are not recommended for yellow legged fowls,
as they have a tendency to affect the color of the

16 PROFIT WITH POULTRY

legs and feet. Many back yard poultry keepers
have two small runways to each laying house, thus
making it possible to plant each yard alternately
with oats, rye, or other quick growing grasses.
Where space permits this method is preferable. On
the other hand, there are those who pay little
attention to the runways, thinking it only necessary
to clean the henhouse and let the yard take care of
itself. Such neglect is liable to result in disease.

In building runways it is well to have the location
high and dry and running toward the south if pos-
sible. By building the yards on the south side of
the house they are protected to a certain extent
from the cold winds, which means much to the
flock during the colder months. Soil should also
receive attention. Clay, which bakes dry and hard
during dry weather and gets soft and muddy dur-
ing rains, is anything but satisfactory for a mod-
ern poultry yard. Such ground should be covered
with a good layer of. black, sandy, or gravelly soil
or may be topped off with clean cinders well rammed
and rolled.

Poultry wants plenty of shade in summer, and in ~
constructing runs this must have consideration.
Trees in or adjacent to the pens or sunflower or
other plants are commonly and successfully used for
this purpose. Small, low runs may be partly cov-
ered with canvas or roofing paper or vines may be
planted so as to give the hens a shady ~etreat. Com-

PROFIT WITH POULTRY 17

fort is an important factor in keeping the flock in
the best laying condition, and this is just as necessary
in the run as it is in the laying house.

Confined hens require more exercise than pullets
of the same breed, as they are inclined to fatten more
rapidly. By giving the hens a deeper litter to scratch
in they are compelled to work harder for their food
and the feeds, both grains and mashes, should con-
tain less fattening matter.

Strange as it may seem, it is a well known fact
among authorities on poultry raising that confined
poultry when properly housed, fed, and cared for
will average a larger percentage of eggs than those
on large range. ‘The vitality of the offspring may
in time be diminished, but the confined flock will
lay eggs and plenty of them.

CHAPTER II

COMMON SENSE NECESSARY

POULTRY RAISING, like any other business, requires
work and good judgment. The poultry business
is not hard labor, but it does require a certain
amount of exertion on the part of the operator. It
is not a lazy man’s occupation, and a person with no
ambition will not be much of a winner in the poultry
line.

To be a successful poultryman one must have
ambition and patience. Without either poultry
work should not be attempted, unless perhaps profits
are not to be considered. A drone in the poultry
business will not last long, and one without patience
may become discouraged before he fairly gets
started on the road to success. One with good
judgment generally has patience. He knows that
every business has its drawbacks and some dis-
couraging features; he knows that everything
cannot be accomplished in one day, and that a loss
is a good lesson, although it may be costly. If his
hopes are not realized he does not give up in dis-
gust, but tries and tries again until he meets success
Tace) to Tace.

A man without ambition is careless; he puts off
until tomorrow what should have been done today.

18

COMMON SENSE NECESSARY 19

This will never do in the poultry business. There
are things that must be done today. Carelessness
spells ruin to a poultry plant. It has put more than
one poultry raiser on the list of the “has beens,”
and diminished many a good sized bank roll.
There have been failures in the poultry business,
but not any more in proportion than in any other
business. When a man fails in the poultry business
he immediately tells all his friends about his mis-
fortunes and condemns this vocation in the loudest
terms, and although he realizes his shortcomings
he becomes a full fledged member of the “ Knockers’
Club.” He tells of so and so also making a failure
of the business, but never mentions the countless
numbers who are making good in the same line.
But the American hen goes on supplying the
breakfast table with its most popular victuals and
the dinner table with healthful and delicious meats
not tainted with lumpy jaw and tuberculosis. And
what is more, thousands upon thousands of farmers’
wives are clothing the entire family from the profits
of the hennery; thousands of large poultry plants
are making good dividends upon their investments,
and countless numbers of backyard poultry raisers
are supplying their tables with eggs and fowls
besides deriving therefrom some extra money in
addition to the salary earned from their regular
vocation. An industry which ranks next to corn
in dollars and cents, and then only partly figured, in

20. COMMON SENSE NECESSARY

the United States census reports. Does that look
like an unprofitable business? Could an unprofit-
able business grow to such an enormous industry?

The man who works and uses good common
sense in the poultry business is going to make a
success of it. Remember, success in this business
is not always measured by the dollar you put into
it. It is the management of the plant which brings
about the profits. If perhaps you are going into
the poultry business as an investment and do not
intend conducting it yourself great care should be
exercised to select the proper man to manage such
an institution. Good managers are not picked up
every day. There are many who pose as being
capable of handling anything in that line, but
when placed in charge prove themselves incompe-
tent. On a large plant where more help is needed
it is much better to have an expert poultryman
surrounded with ordinary laborers than to have all
half way poultrymen, and no one who is fully
qualified to handle all the details of such an under-
taking. One good man who knows his business
can get along with inexperienced help and win out.

There are people who go into the poultry busi-
ness with the idea that all they need do is to buy
an incubator, say, for instance of 250 egg capac-
ity, fill it up, hatch 250 chicks, and then sit idly
by and in the fall take these 250 chicks to the
market and carry home $150, the proceeds of the

COMMON SENSE NECESSARY 21

sale. They do not consider that the chicks require
attention, and the result is the chicks never live
until market time, having become the prey of
tats, disease, vermin, or something else—another
case of lack of judgment. Live stock, no matter
what it may be, must have attention. It must have
good care, proper feed, fresh water, sunshine and
shelter, and without these it cannot live. Even
with all these things there will be some losses; a
few deaths in the best cared for flocks cannot be
avoided. :

The poultry business offers big opportunities for
the poor man, as it can be started on a small scale
with very little capital, from which it can be
increased gradually to an independent livelihood,
but it means some work and a whole lot of good
common sense.

CHAPTER: iI

METHOD TO BE USED

THE question of method confronts every beginner
in poultry raising, and such beginner must decide
whether to follow the old way, hatching by hen,
or using the modern method, the incubator.

Before making any definite decision along this
line several things must be taken into consideration,
and no one should decide such an important ques-
tion without giving it lots of thought. Facilities
at hand must come in for a big share of considera-
tion; location and breed must not be overlooked.

There is no question but what incubators, the
right kind of incubators, are preferable to hens,
and it is also a fact that a large poultry plant
could not be operated nearly as successfully with
hens as with machines; but there are on the other
hand many individual cases where incubators are
unprofitable to operate.. For instance, the poultry
raiser who only wishes to raise a couple of dozen
chicks would be exercising extravagance by using
an incubator.

People who can find room only in the kitchen
for setting a machine, where the temperature goes
from one extreme to the other, had better not
attempt to use an incubator. The best machine

22

METHOD TO BE USED 23

on the market could not turn out satisfactory
hatches where there is such a difference in the
temperature. A good regulator will take care of
the small changes satisfactorily, but where the
variation is so marked as it would be in most
kitchens it is impossible to keep the incubator egg
chamber at a uniform temperature.

I have had people complain to me about the poor
hatches from their incubators, and upon investiga-
tion I found many of these complainants’ machines
being operated within a few feet of the kitchen
stove. One of these same people had one of the
best basements I ever saw for hatching purposes,
and when I asked him why he did not set his
machine down there he replied: “I want it handy
so that I need not go down into the basement at
night to look after the machine and see that it is
running right.’ I told this party that if he moved
his machine into the basement, regulated it cor-
rectly to start with, and looked after it each
morning and evening he would not need to get up
at night; in fact, he need not worry about it during
the night. No wonder this party had to get up
during the night and look after his regulator and
lamp flame; the temperature of his kitchen dropped
considerably during the night, hence it was abso-
lutely necessary for him to look after it.

Should the decision have been made in favor of
the incubator the question then arises what kind

24 METHOD TO BE USED ©

and size to buy. The answer to this question is:
Buy a good one, and let the size be governed by the
facilities at hand to obtain the hatching eggs and
the raising of the chicks.

It would be folly for a small back yard poultry-
man with only a small flock of, say, a dozen hens
to buy a 300 or 400 capacity machine, and it would
be equally imprudent for a man with 100 or 200
hens to purchase an incubator with a capacity of
only fifty or sixty eggs. A small poultry raiser
with a small flock would be compelled to save his
eggs too long to fill one of the larger machines.
Eggs may be safely kept for hatching for a period
of two weeks, providing they are turned each day;
but to obtain the best result from the hatches I
would not advise setting eggs older than this.

Where hens are to be used for this work care
must also be exercised in the selection of such hens.
The disposition of some hens is such that they oft-
times are poorer hatchers than the worst incubator
made. Some hens are unreliable, sit on the nest
for a few days, only to forsake it again; and some
hens are so clumsy and awkward they break the
eggs.

Never select a wild hen; the tame ones make
better setters and mothers. It is not advisable to
select the large, feathered leg varieties for setters,
nor birds crossed with the nonsetting varieties.
Plymouth Rocks, Rhode Island Reds, Wyandottes,

METHOD TO BE USED 25

and other medium sized varieties make the best
setters, but even in these varieties unreliable hens
will be found.

It is a good idea to set either three or six hens
at one time if such a thing is possible. This will
give you a chance to give the results from three
or four hatches to two hens to brood, make it pos-
sible to reset some of the good setters, and at the
same time have more chicks of a uniform size
and age.

Do not attempt to place any eggs under a hen
until after such hen has been thoroughly treated
with a reliable lice killer. Tobacco stems placed in
the bottom of the nests will also assist in keeping
the hen free from vermin. Many hens leave the
nest on account of being pestered by lice, and even
if they do stick it out the lice will be transferred to
the chicks. A dust bath should also be provided
for the setting hen, and the nest and all surround-
ings must be kept perfectly clean at all times during
the incubation. Filth breeds vermin and disease.

Keep the setters away from the rest of the flock;
feed them grain food, charcoal, grit, and clean,
fresh water. A little rusty iron dropped in the
drinking water during this period will act as a
tonic and keep the hens in good condition.

CHAPTER IV

STARTING IN SPRING

SPRINGTIME is without a doubt the best time to
start in the poultry business. Matured stock can-
not as a matter of fact be purchased as cheaply then
as during the fall and early winter months, but
those contemplating embarking in this vocation at
this season of the year should obtain either eggs
for hatching or baby chicks. In either case these
should be purchased from a reliable breeder, one
who has pure bred stock of the variety to be
selected. |

Whatever you do get thoroughbred stock, and
do not be misled into buying scrub chicks or eggs
because they are cheaper. There are many reasons
' why good stock should be selected. For market
purposes the larger breeds will dress to a more
uniform size and shape. ‘Their plumpness and
even color of skin will attract special attention and
will commend them to the buyers. ‘The store-
keeper who buys poultry will appreciate this uni-
formity of color, size, and shape, and as a rule will
pay more for such dressed fowl.

A mixed flock cannot be fed with as much suc-
cess for best results as a flock of one breed of
uniform size and similar habits. Take, for

26

STARTING IN SPRING 27

instance, a small variety such as the Leghorn,
which requires far different feeding and care than
the larger varieties, such as the Orpington or light
Brahma.

In other words, they don’t hitch well together
and you cannot possibly get the best there is in
either by permitting them to run together. One
is more nervous and active, while the other is
more quiet and less busy.

What is true of a mixed lot of thoroughbreds is
equally true of a lot of scrubs, cross bred mongrels,
which is bound to result in having many different
shapes, sizes, and colors in the flock. A flock of
thoroughbred hens of one variety will lay eggs of
a more uniform color, size, and shape, thus increas-
ing their market value as a fancy trade product.

The public, especially that part of ‘the public
which is willing to pay a fancy price for good things
to eat, demand eggs of a uniform shape and color.
Such eggs cannot possibly be obtained from a mixed
flock of fowls.

Thoroughbred poultry, in keeping with all other
kinds of live stock, has been bred for years and
years with certain definite objects in view. We
have breeds which are especially adapted for table
use, while others have been bred along the line of
egg production only.

Take the Leghorns, Campines, and Minorcas—
where can we find their equal among the scrub

28 STARTING IN SPRING

fowls, not alone as perfect egg machines, but non-
setters as well? It has taken time and skillful
breeding to bring them up to their present standard
of productiveness, and the breeders are still improv-
ing them in this particular line.

When you buy common eggs of unknown breed
and hatch chicks from such eggs, you do not know
what they will mature into, whereas, if you buy
eggs laid by hens from some known breed you
know, to a certain extent, whether you will have
egg producers or market fowls.

Another point which should not be overlooked
by the novice—when you raise good poultry, bred
from good stock, you can always sell a few
cockerels and surplus pullets at a price consider-
ably better than that to be obtained from the
butcher or grocer. If you are only a small back-
yarder you stand a show of selling good birds.to
your neighbors at fancy poultry prices.

The appearance of your uniform flock will bring
about these sales. Such flocks are noticed and com-
mented upon by almost evérybody, whereas, on
the other hand, a flock of scrubs or mixed breeds
never receives as much as a passing notice. On a
green, well kept place in the suburbs what is more
attractive and is more noticed by the passer-by than
a flock of hens all of uniform color and general
makeup? It adds an air of prosperity to the
surroundings.

STARTING IN SPRING 29

Should you decide to purchase eggs, and these
eggs are to be intrusted to setting hens, care must
be exercised in the selection of such hens. A wild,
scary hen may result in broken eggs or a forsaken
nest. A good plan is to try the hen out for four
or five days on glass eggs, and then study her habits
as closely as possible.

The purchasing of baby chicks has become popu-
lar in the last few years, and many prefer to buy
these instead of the eggs for hatching. A common
mistake made by the amateur poultry keeper is to
buy those quoted at the lowest prices. Hatcheries
which quote baby chicks at ridiculously low prices
either hatch these from eggs laid by inferior stock,
or the chicks lack vitality. A reliable poultry raiser
can always find a ready market for baby chicks at
a fair price.

My advice is, if you cannot afford to buy good
chicks better buy eggs for hatching. It is a waste
of time and money to buy the inferior grades.

CHAPTER V

STARTING IN FALL

THE fall months offer some advantages to start a
poultry plant. At that season of the year good
breeding stock can be purchased at a reasonable
price, owing to the fact that poultry raisers are in
most cases compelled to sell some of the same
year’s breeders to make room for the growing
stock,—the pullets and cockerels that were hatched
in spring.

To start in the pursuit of poultry raising in the
fall of the year, it is necessary to purchase matured
stock. Before this is done it is absolutely important
that some thought be given to the subject. The
right start means much to the future success of the
undertaking.

First of all you must decide wisely on the breed
you wish to keep. ‘There are many good breeds
of poultry, and most every standard variety has
its many friends, who are always ready to tell of
the superior merits of their respective favorites.
The beginner, if he has spent any time at all read-
ing up on the subject, has no doubt had his
thoughts filled with many convincing arguments as
to the best breeds, etc. In fact, the opinions

30

STARTING IN FALL _ ar.

expressed are so varied and cover so many breeds
that he is bound to be puzzled in choosing a variety.

There is only one to decide this most important
question, and that one is the beginner himself.
Select the variety which you most admire, provid-
ing, of course, such variety meets the requirements
necessary for the particular branch of the business
you wish to follow. For instance, if you only want
eggs and many of them, select one of the lighter
breeds, such as Leghorns, Minorcas, Spanish,
Campines, Hamburgs, Anconas, Polish, etc.; if
only meat, select the heavy breeds, such as Brahmas,
Cochins, Langshans, etc.; if both eggs and meat
your choice should fall on the medium breeds, which
include the American varieties, such as Plymouth
Rocks, Wyandottes, Rhode Island Reds, etc., or
some of the foreign breeds, such as the Orping-
tons, Dorkings, Faverolles, Houdans, etc. By mak-
ing your selections according to the foregoing
classifications, and choosing therefrom the breed
which strikes your fancy the most, you cannot go
far wrong.

Do not attempt to start with several varieties,
One is quite sufficient and two should be the limit
of your ambitions. Beginners who start with a
half dozen varieties very seldom make a success
of any one. Different breeds require different care,
housing, and feeding, and it will be to your interest
to put all your thoughts on one breed to start with

122 STARTING IN FALL

and master the handling of this one breed before
tackling more.

Another common mistake made by beginners is
in exercising little judgment in selecting stock—
buying promiscuously without any regard to the
strain or future ancestors. Some even go so far
as to purchase their foundation stock from the
crates at their grocers and butchers, selecting there-
from birds having the appearance of the variety
which they intend to keep. In selecting your
breeders in such a haphazard manner, a hundred
chances to one you will never make such a flock
profitable. You may possibly in this way get
pure bred stock of the variety you want, but only
get the worst culls, stunted, barren, or disqualified
specimens of that breed. You cannot expect any-
thing else as those shipped to the merchant are as
a rule discarded birds, fit for only one purpose—
to eat.

By all means buy from a breeder, one who has a
good vigorous strain and one who has given his
breeding stock the proper care and attention. You
cannot expect healthy matured fowls from chicks
which had much hardship to endure, possibly over-
run with lice, or improperly fed and watered, or
not supplied with the necessary heat during their
first few weeks. Buy from a responsible breeder
so that you will get just what you pay for and
ofttimes a little more. When writing such a breeder

STARTING IN FALL 33

tell him that you are a beginner and give him an
idea, if possible, just about how much you wish to
invest in breeding stock. If the breeder is honest
he will take an interest in you because you are a
beginner and nine chances out of every ten he will
give you a fair quotation and give you full value
for every dollar invested with him. Of course,
there are some who will, if they get a chance, fleece
a beginner, but such unfair breeders are few and
far between. Poultry raisers who treat their
customers dishonestly are soon found out, with the
result that their advertisements will not be accepted
by the better class of papers.

To start in the poultry business in a small way
it is advisable to purchase from some reliable
breeder a pen of good stock birds. It will give
the beginner an opportunity to study the habits
of poultry, the care and attention necessary for
their welfare, and give him an idea as to approxi-
mate cost of their keep. Too often amateurs start
raising poultry with the idea that every dollar
derived from the poultry plant is clear profit, not
giving the feed bills and other necessary expenses
the least thought. Such beginners are very apt to
become discouraged with the business before they
have fairly started, and as a result they lose interest
and quit with a loss. To feed poultry economically
and yet properly is not child’s play, it means study
and careful management. Poultry writers may tell

34 STARTING IN FALL

you to feed so and so much to a flock of so many
hens, but if you follow such advice to the letter
you will in time find that advice is in most cases
not practical. ‘There is only one sure way to feed
poultry properly and that is gained only by practical
experience with the flock. That is why I say buy
a pen of birds to start with and thus gain knowledge
in a practical way.

By buying a pen of fowls in the fall you have an
opportunity to get some strictly fresh eggs from
your own hens during the winter months, when
such eggs are difficult to purchase. To be rewarded
with some nice eggs within a short time of start-
ing to keep poultry is encouragement enough to the
average beginner to spur him on in the work he has
undertaken, not to mention the possibilities of imme-
diate profits from the little flock. Encouragement
is what a beginner needs, something to show for
the work and time put into the enterprise.

In buying the nucleus for your poultry yard care
must be exercised in what you buy. Remember
you are laying the foundation for your future flock,
and a blunder now may mean future trouble and
ultimate failure. Study well what breed you want
to keep, hasty action may result in selecting a
variety which would not meet your fancy later on,
and possibly a breed which is not adapted to the
conditions and surroundings of your particular
plant.

STARTING IN FALL 35

After the breed has been finally decided upon
efforts should be put forward to obtain the best
possible at the price you can afford to pay, and
care taken to get birds free from disease and of
vigorous stock. By buying from a_ responsible
breeder much of the difficulties in these particulars
can be avoided, and in most cases the beginner
will get full value for the money invested.

Never buy a bird which has any deformity, such
as a crooked breast bone, a crippled foot, a turned
under toe, a wry tail, or any other bodily defect.
Fowls which have been stunted in their growth,
whether from disease or neglect, are a bad purchase
and are expensive at almost any price.

The early fall also is an excellent time to put
up poultry houses, fencing and other necessary
things required for the proper housing and care-
taking. The weather is ideal for such work, in
fact more so than the early spring when the heavy
rains are liable to retard operations along this line.

Even if you are only keeping poultry for the
eggs and meat it is advisable to pay some attention
to the fancy side of the business. It creates more
interest in the work, and at the same time makes
it possible for you to get a much better price for
the surplus cockerels, the eggs, and the baby chicks,
which are sold to others interested. If you only
keep a small flock with the sole object in view of
supplying the poultry products for the home table,

36 STARTING IN FALL

by paying some attention to the fancy end of it you
can, without doubt, sell enough surplus fowls and
eggs for hatching to pay all the running expenses of
the small plant, and still have a surplus besides.
Many backyarders are following this plan and doing
nicely.

If the fancy side is to have any attention at all
you should pay a little better price for your founda-
tion stock, study the standard requirements of that
particular breed, and make your yearly selections
from the young stock according to points of the
American standard of perfection, and not use your
personal hobby on a certain point as “just the
thing.” Good thoroughbred poultry is attractive,
be the breed what it may, and at the same time it
is more productive. Utility and fancy go hand in
hand, providing neither is overdone. If it were
not for our carefully selected standard varieties we
would not have attained the wonderful egg records
attained by the American hen today.

If possible beginners should attend some good
poultry show, where the many different varieties
are on exhibition. There is nothing so educational
to the poultry raiser as these shows, and more
knowledge can be obtained on the various breeds
in this manner than by any other.

CHAPTER VI

EARLY HATCHING

Marcu should be the busy month in the poultry
plant. It is virtually the opening of the breeding
season. ‘There is much to do for those who realize
the importance of having as many early hatched
pullets as possible. The old saying is “the March
pullet the big money maker,” and this is especially
true in the larger breeds, the kind that do not
develop so rapidly. March pullets will lay, or
rather should lay, early in the fall, just about the
time the old hens are beginning to molt, and
naturally stop laying. The cockerels hatched dur-
ing this month will make early summer broilers, or
early fall roasters, hence commanding a better
price than those hatched later.

Those catering to the fancy side of the business
will find the March hatched birds more valuable
both as breeders and as a salable proposition. Early
hatched fancy fowls are much in demand for the
fall fairs and early shows, and also have a decided
advantage in competition at the winter poultry
exhibitions. They are more developed in the
various points which go to make up the particular
breed to which they belong.

It is not so difficult to hatch the early chicks, but

oF,

38 | EARLY HATCHING

to raise them requires special attention and care.
Winter is only in hiding, even though the days be
moderate, and sudden drops in temperature should
be looked for during the entire months of March
and April. ‘Take no chances, prepare for these
conditions, have your baby chicks protected from
such changes in climatic conditions. A little precau-
tion in this direction may save you many dollars;
exposure on one night may kill more chicks than you
could hatch in a three weeks’ run of the incubator.
Watchfulness and forethought are a necessity in
successful poultry raising.

This is the time of the year when hatching eggs
are in big demand and herein lies the temptation
offered to poultry breeders to sell their eggs at
good prices. The cash looks attractive and ofttimes
influences their business judgment, resulting in an
oversale of the early hatching eggs, leaving them
no eggs for their own incubators. Such poultry
breeders fail to realize that these early eggs are
worth just as much to them for hatching purposes
as they are to others.

A good idea is to figure out approximately how
many eggs you intend to set this season and then
apportion so many for each of the following months
—March, April, and May. By following this plan
there is not much danger of overselling and the
breeder will not disappoint himself in his own
hatches. To sell all the early eggs and depend on

EARLY HATCHING 39

the late ones for your own hatches is poor policy,
and is bound to result in a loss to the plant.

A word of advice to those who hatch with hens.
Avoid having too many small flocks of chicks, of
various ages and sizes. It is unwise for any one to
so plan his hatching and brooding as to be com-
pelled to look after a dozen or more flocks consisting
of six to twelve chicks each. It is evidence of lack
of system and results in saddling upon oneself a
greater amount of work to properly look after such
flocks,

The fact of the matter is a person can take care
of a flock of twenty-five as easily and as quickly as
a flock of ten. Wherever possible combine small
flocks of the same sizes and ages.

It takes planning ahead to bring about this result,
but such things can be easily accomplished by setting
a number of hens at the same time. Do not attempt
to combine flocks with decided differences in sizes,
for the smaller ones are bound to be at a great
disadvantage, which will result undoubtedly in
stunting them for the balance of their lives.

Do not overcrowd your breeding stock at this
season of the year; give them plenty of room, exer-
cise, and sunshine. Do not force their laying
capacity. What you want now is fertile eggs. It
is not now a question of how many eggs your hens
lay, but are those eggs fertile and hatchable? Will
they bring forth good strong chicks with lots of

40 EARLY HATCHING

vitality? Give them plenty of green food. They
must have that in order to bring the right results.

See to it that your hens are not too fat. Fat
hens will not as a rule lay many fertile eggs. Do
not let them get lousy. Examine closely for these
pests, and if any are found use the louse powder
freely. Just because the fowls are running out do
not neglect to provide a dusting bath in a dry place
protected from the rains.

Gather the eggs often so that they will not be
chilled, and do not keep them either in a too hot or
a too cold room. Much of the success in the
hatches depends upon the keeping and handling of
the eggs beforehand.

Clean quarters, lots of fresh air, and good pro-
tection from the cold spring rains are what the
breeding pens must have. The special care and
attention bestowed upon them now bring reward in
full measure.

Always keep in mind the fact that to make
poultry raising profitable it is absolutely necessary
to build for the future. In other words, we work
today for results tomorrow.

CHAPTER VII

EARLY FERTILITY

Durine the month of March there are always
many complaints about eggs not hatching. The
reasons for them are many, some of which could be
avoided if the amateur poultry breeder would pay
more attention to the laws of nature.

April, May, and June are the natural months for
domesticated hens to lay and brood. During those
months the hens get the proper amount of sun-
shine, vegetation, and other necessities which pro-
mote conditions ideal for productiveness. If we
want earlier hatches, and most of us do, it is then
only natural that we must supply these seasonable
conditions in an artificial way. Those who neglect
to do this will not get a large percentage of hatch-
able eggs, and those that do hatch are liable to
produce a chick lacking in vitality.

To produce the right kind of early hatching eggs
it is necessary to have a properly constructed hen-
house, one which is well protected from the fierce
north and west winds, windows facing the south
affording lots of sunshine, and also fresh air both
during the day and night. A well protected scratch-
ing shed is also advisable, but this can be dispensed
with, providing, of course, the henhouse proper is

AI

42 EARLY FERTILITY

of sufficient size to afford comfortable exercise to
the flock.

One of the common mistakes is to overestimate
the capacity of a henhouse. Amateurs in their
desire to get as many eggs as possible from a flock
confined in a limited space are apt to kee more
hens than they should, with the result of less eggs,
infertile eggs, sickly chicks, lice, and disease in the
flock. My advice is to keep less and keep them
comfortable.

The next point to consider in the production of
early fertile eggs is the supplying of vegetable
matter of such a quality and in such quantities as
they would be able to find when running at large
later in the season.

This in many cases is a difficult problem with
the inexperienced poultry keeper, who is not versed
in the modern methods used by breeders to supply
such vegetation. One of the easiest green foods to
produce is sprouted oats, and it makes an excellent
feed for both laying hens and chicks. This can be
produced in racks in any warm room or basement,
and at a cost within the reach of every one. One
strong recommendation for sprouted oats is that it
can be grown rapidly and can be fed to the hens
fresh every day. Aside from that, it is tender and
juicy and much relished.

Next to sprouted oats I would recommend well

EARLY. FERTILITY 43

cured, short cut alfalfa, which has been scalded the
night before and left to soak until morning, when
the water should be squeezed out before it is fed to
the hens. Mangel roots, turnips, raw potatoes, cab-
bage, etc., are also used quite extensively for the
same purpose, with good results.

Hens which have been forced to the limit for egg
production during the winter months are not in con-
dition to lay eggs that are strong in fertility. Many
condiments and so-called “laying foods”’ have made
many flocks worthless as breeders. It is only
natural that fowls which have been overworked by
artificial methods for three or four months lose a
large percentage of their vitality, and a loss of
vitality will surely have its effect upon the spring
crop of eggs which are to be used for hatching.
Even if they should hatch, one cannot expect
healthy, robust chicks from parents which are in a
weakened condition.

Many an inexperienced poultry keeper will now
pay the penalty for trying to force the eggs from
the hens when the prices for such a commodity
were high and the demand lively. My advice to
such is buy eggs for hatching instead of using
your own. |

The fertility will run low if the hens are too fat.
To get the best results from the hatches the hens
must be in the pink of condition, which means

44 EARLY FERTILITY

healthy, vigorous, active, and free from lice. A
lousy hen cannot possibly be at her best; lice are
bound to sap the vitality from any hen.

Most poultry breeders selling eggs guarantee
about 75 per cent fertility after April 1, and some
require that the eggs be tested before the sixteenth
day, all infertile ones to be returned not later than
that date. If such eggs are found to be infertile
the number making the full 75 per cent will be sent
to the purchaser.

Any responsible poultryman nowadays wants the
eggs sent out to hatch as many chicks as possible,
and is always well pleased when customers report
big hatches. The best reputation and advertisement
a breeder can get in an ordinary way is to have eggs
from his pens show strong fertility. It is therefore
of vital importance to the poultry raiser to do every-
thing in his power to bring this about. Experiments
along the poultry line have demonstrated that nature
can be assisted in many ways, and the production
of fertile eggs is no exception.

CHAPTER VIII

LATE HATCHING

May is one of the best months to start the rearing
ef chicks in an artificial way. The reason for this is
that weather conditions are very unsettled during the
early part of the season, and unless the poultry raiser
is fully equipped to meet such conditions the losses
from the early hatches are apt to be many. During
May the chicks can be put into an outdoor brooder
and given a chance to run on the ground or grass,
which is most beneficial to them. Chicks reared in
the open air from the beginning are, as a rule, more
hardy than those brought up like hothouse plants
‘In warm rooms and on board floors. They develop
quicker and are less liable to disease, two very essen-
tial items in profitable poultry raising.

Pullets hatched in May will, if given the proper
care, feed, and attention, lay the following Novem-
ber, when eggs are demanding good prices, and
when the old hens have not as yet fully recovered
from the molt. The experienced breeders of Leg-
horns or other Mediterranean varieties as a rule
select the May hatched chicks for their own breed-
ing and laying pens. Experience has taught them
that pullets hatched during this month develop into
“payers.”

45

46 LATE HATCHING

When it comes to the heavy varieties, such as the
various breeds of Asiatics, Cochins, Brahmas, etc.,
the preference is given to the earlier hatches, but
not so with the smaller breeds. Even in the
American varieties, among which are the Plymouth
Rocks, Rhode Island Reds, and Wyandottes, the
May hatched chicks are very popular. True, the
American varieties do not develop as rapidly as the
Leghorns and other smaller varieties, but never-
theless the May pullet, if given the right chance,
will lay before the snow flies.

If the eggs from stock with the proper health
and vigor are used for hatching, and if the chicks
when hatched receive that attention necessary for
their steady growth and development, there is no
question that May hatched chicks from the Amer-
ican breeds are very desirable. They have many
things in their favor, chief among which are
enough natural advantages to make them grow more
rapidly than those hatched during an earlier period
of the season. Sunshine, air, fresh soil, green grass,
and natural surroundings will do wonders for the
newly hatched chicks, and one week under such con-
ditions will bring about more development. than
two weeks of close confinement indoors, with less
air, little sunshine, no tender grasses, and hard
boards to run on.

Artificial rearing of chicks does not mean that
the chicks can be successfully deprived of all things

LATE HATCHING 47

nature intended they should have. Artificial
methods are only successful when coupled with
natural surroundings, conditions, and feeds. To
carry artificial methods to any extreme is bound
to result in poor results, followed by a condemna-
tion of the artificial hatching and rearing of chicks.
Most of those poultry raisers who have tried both
methods of incubation, and have found the old hen
preferable, have been extremists who have carried
the artificial methods to such a point where reason
ceases. The incubator and brooder can do wonder-
ful things, but they cannot supply every condition
nature intended, unless assisted. The sooner the
novice comes to this conclusion the sooner he will
find himself on the road to successful artificial
incubation and brooding.

No matter if the eggs come from the most vigor-
ous stock and are possessed of the strongest germ,
if the chicks are not given the chance to get as
close to nature as possible, confined perhaps in a
broodhoeuse without an outdoor run, those chicks
cannot develop into strong pullets and cockerels.
It is surprising how many chicks are annually
brought up under such unfavorable conditions, and
some by poultry raisers who should know better.
Is it any wonder some poultry breeders are always
complaining of poor hatches, of weakly, sickly
chicks? The wonder is that nature does not rebel
altogether against such unreasonableness.

48 LATE HATCHING

Another advantage in the later hatches is the
fact that the fertility of the eggs runs higher on an
average. Every well regulated, properly mated, and
properly fed flock should during April and May
average not less than 8o per cent fertility.

Beginners need not hesitate about buying day old
chicks in May. They have nature with them, which
is an item well worth considering.

Even fall hatching is profitable, as pullets hatched
in the early fall will start laying the early part of
the following spring, and will develop into heavy
layers the next summer. Southern poultry raisers
do considerable hatching during the fall months, and
seem to have good success. The fall-hatched cock-
erels can be marketed as early broilers, and both
sexes can be marketed as dressed squab broilers
when weighing ten to sixteen ounces. These squab
broilers are in big demand by the high-class restau-
rants and hotels, and as a rule bring the best prices
during February and March. To carry on the suc-
cessful hatching of fall chicks, it is absolutely neces-
sary to use incubators and brooders, as broody hens
are not obtainable during the fall months.

CHAPTER IX

UTILITY AND FANCY POULTRY

To make the most out of a back yard or small
poultry plant it is advisable to cater both to the
utility and fancy side of the business. On a small
scale they work well together and make it possible
to have a steady income the year around. The fancy
trade is seasonable and if no attention is paid to the
utility end there will be several months in the year
when everything goes out and nothing comes in.
For the beginner with little capital the expense item
in the off season will present a hardship and ofttimes
discourage him in his endeavors. He must find
some way to overcome this drain upon the small
treasury. The marketing of table eggs and poultry
will solve this problem satisfactorily.

Beginners who are contemplating the breeding of
a fancy strain should therefore not overlook the
utility qualifications of the breed or breeds to be
chosen. ‘There are some varieties of poultry. which
are ornamental and nothing else. They are beauti-
ful in appearance, exceptionally pleasing to the eye,
but as layers or table fowls they are far from
profitable.

Poultry fanciers, who raise poultry for pleasure
only and who have the necessary money to spend

49

50 UTILITY AND FANCY POULTRY

on such a hobby, can keep such ornaments of the
poultry family, but those who must of necessity
depend upon the flock to pay the feed bills,
etc., will find it advantageous to combine both
fancy and utility qualifications when making the
selections.

A poultry raiser who depends upon both branches
of the business will cull his flock more closely and
thus help to improve the quality of standard
varieties both for fancy and utility purposes. Upon
him we must depend in a great measure to improve
the laying qualities of our many breeds of pure bred
poultry, and to combine both beauty and utility in
the same hens.

All of this leads me back to the oft repeated
advice, never start with scrubs or a mixed breed.
If finances are limited buy less fowls, eggs, or baby
chicks to start with, but whatever you buy let it
be a good breed from a good strain and from a
reliable breeder. To buy anything else will result
unprofitably and disappoint in the end. The start
means all and upon this depends your future suc-
cess or failure as the case may be.

Fancy buildings are not necessary; better spend
less for these and more for the occupants of such
buildings. Remember it is the stock which brings
in the dollars and not the houses and yards.

There is an old saying in poultry raising which
always holds good, “‘Good stock for the best

UTILITY AND FANCY POULTRY 51

results.” Many overlook this oft repeated advice.
They do not grasp its full meaning or its importance.
Some beginners who are about to embark in the
utility branch of the business think this advice is
given by breeders of good stock as an incentive to
the inexperienced to buy their fancy stock. This is
far from the truth. ;

The breeding and improving of thoroughbred
stock—cattle, hogs, horses, sheep, or other domes-
ticated animals—has improved the marketable
quality; it has also materially increased the value
of the stock upon the farm. Pure bred cows pro-
duce more milk than the ordinary scrub cows, the
best beef comes from the well bred cattle, and the
highest grade pork comes from the so-called fancy
hogs.

This is only natural when one takes into con-
sideration the fact that well bred stock is carefully
selected and mated. The finest and most vigorous
are selected for breeding purposes and such stock is
generally kept under better and more sanitary
conditions.

What is true in this respect in other live stock
is also true in poultry. The best individual and
pen egg records made at experimental stations were
made by thoroughbred poultry of some of the
standard breeds. The most attractive, uniform
eggs sold upon the market or supplied to private
trade are laid by pure bred hens, and the plumpest

52 UTILITY AND FANCY POULTRY

and juiciest fowls come as a rule from the farms
and poultry yards keeping nothing but well bred
poultry.

In breeding for the show room, as well as for the
market, more attention must be given to the proper
mating of the breeding pens, but this extra effort on
the part of the poultry-keeper will be rewarded by
bigger profits and a better flock of fowls in every
way.

CHAPTER X

CONVENIENT EQUIPMENT

It is a natural trait of mankind to do things which
are convenient. Convenience in our daily routine
tends to make our work more enjoyable. Con-
venience saves time and tends towards efficiency. A
carpenter without the proper tools could not build
a house as quickly and as well as he could with the
right tools. This holds good in the keeping of
poultry.

There is a difference in just merely keeping
poultry and keeping it properly, and it may be made
a pleasure or a burden. Convenience tends towards
making poultry keeping a pleasure. It saves time,
labor, and often disappointments. It helps to do
things well which otherwise might only be half
done.

First of all the poultry keeper should have a con-
venient place to keep poultry—a house sufficiently
large for the number of hens sheltered therein; not
necessarily a fancy house, but one that is cozy,
properly ventilated, well roofed, free from drafts,
handy to get into, easily cleaned, and with good
interior arrangements. Such a henhouse, be it ever
so cheaply constructed, will make a convenient home
for the flock.

53

54 CONVENIENT EQUIPMENT

Next is the run or yard, where the hens spend
most of their time during favorable weather. This
is the summer exercising place and playground,
‘supplying the fowls with two important necessities
for their health and productiveness—fresh air and
mother earth to scratch in.

Personally I prefer a good sized runway, but it
is not an absolute necessity to have this so large. Of
course, if the run is small it must be more often
cleaned and spaded so as to keep it fresh and sani-
tary. Whatever the size of the yard, it should be
well drained, free from low places where water will
stand, and free from soil which will bake hard
during hot weather and get muddy after a rain.

The best soil for a run is one which absorbs the
water, leaving the top soil quite dry shortly after
a rain. I do not advise using cinders or ashes as
a covering for the yards, although it is sometimes
necessary to resort to them where the soil is
unfavorable.

Where space permits, it is a good idea to have a
double run for each pen, which permits the seeding
down of the runs with oats or other quick growing
grains, and then alternating the fowls from one run
to the other. By this plan the hens can help them-
selves to their green food, and they certainly do
enjoy such freshly grown tender grasses.

After the house and the runs are completed equip-
ment necessary for the operation of the little poultry

CONVENIENT EQUIPMENT | 55

plant must come in for a big share of consideration.
The equipment is the “tools” with which the
work is carried on, and upon the careful selec-
tion and installation of equipment depends the
facilities for doing the work with the least burden
and inconvenience.
_ There are many devices which can be done away
with, not being absolutely necessary to keep poultry
successfully, but on the other hand there are labor
saving devices which save both time and work, and
incidentally increase the pleasure of taking care of
the flock. Among these are the various kinds of
drinking fountains, automatic feed hoppers, nest
boxes, feed troughs, grit and shell boxes, lice kill-
ing machines, automatic exercisers, lice proof roost
supports, etc. -
Every year there are new poultry appliances put
upon the market. Some of them have real merit,
while others are only a luxury, and absolutely
unnecessary. Beginners should be careful what
they buy along this line, for much money can be
wasted on useless devices. It pays to buy equip-
ment which saves time and labor, as it is just as
important to be up to the times in the poultry busi-
ness as any other line. The question of how much
a beginner can afford to invest enters into the ques-
tion of what equipment to buy, but I would advise
stretching a point to buy something durable and
reliable.

56 CONVENIENT EQUIPMENT

No other equipment about a poultry plant needs
to be selected with as much care as an incubator and
brooder. Thousands of eggs are wasted every year
through the use of inferior incubators, and thou-
sands of chicks die annually from being forced to
dwell in a poorly constructed brooder.

It may cost a few dollars more to buy a good
incubator to start with, but the saving in eggs
which are apt to be spoiled in a poor machine will
more than make up the difference in the cost during
the first season’s run, not to mention the time and
work wasted.

A good machine is also more convenient to
operate ; it does not require constant care and watch-
ing. Such an incubator can be properly adjusted
and regulated before the eggs are put in, and in
most cases there will be little variation throughout
the period of incubation. A machine which must
be looked after during all hours of the night, as
well as during the daytime, is a nuisance and
undesirable,

To sum it all up, good, reliable equipment is
absolutely necessary for profitable poultry raising.

CHAPTER Xt

NATURAL INCUBATION

INCUBATING eggs in the natural way requires some
study on the part of the amateur poultry raiser.
The first essential to success is the selection of a
reliable brood hen and the construction and loca-
tion of a suitable nest. Every “clucky” hen is not
always to be depended upon, and therefore care
should be exercised in making the selection.

Nonsetting varieties of fowls such as Leghorns,
Minorcas, etc., may, when in too fatty condition,
show signs of being clucky, but they cannot be
depended upon to carry the work of incubation to
a successful conclusion. Select a hen from a breed
which is known to be a good broody variety, such
as the Rhode Island Reds, Plymouth Rocks, Wyan-
dottes, Orpingtons, etc. Do not select the heavy,
feather legged varieties, such as the Cochins or
Brahmas. They are as a rule too clumsy and very
apt to break some of the eggs or trample on the
chicks when hatched.

The next important detail connected with this
work is the construction of a suitable nesting box,
not necessarily ornamental, but one which will
assist the hen in her endeavors to rear a family
of healthy chicks. Choose a box which is roomy

37

58 NATURAL INCUBATION

and quite deep, so as to give the hen plenty of
room to change her position on the nest without
breaking some of the eggs. Have it deep so that
the nesting material will not be so easily carried
out. It is a good idea to coat this box with white-
wash or wash it with a strong solution of disinfect-
ant. Either application will make the box both
sanitary and mite proof.

The next step is to prepare the nest, which is
also a very important matter. Place a few inches
of damp soil or sod, cut three inches thick, in the
bottom of the box, upon which should be placed a
good thickness of clean straw or sweet hay.

Place the nest box away from the balance of the
flock, so that the cluck will not be disturbed by the
rooster or other hens. If possible select a secluded
spot away from dogs and other things which may
molest her. The best plan I know of is to have a
small building constructed for this purpose, and
arranged in such a manner that it will be possible
to set a half dozen or even a dozen hens at the same
time. It is much better to set several hens at the
same time, and thus have several broods of the same
age. By following this plan it offers the operator
a chance to switch the chicks from one hen to
another if such a thing is necessary. Another
advantage in setting more than one hen at a time,
one may have a small hatch from one of the hens,
and in that case the small brood can be added to

NATURAL INCUBATION 59

another hen’s brood to rear. It is also very advis-
able to have the flocks of chicks of as uniform an
age as possible.

A medium sized hen can cover from nine to
fifteen eggs. This same hen can cover six or seven
turkey eggs, nine to eleven duck eggs, and four to
five goose eggs. Bantams as a rule can only cover
eight to nine of their own eggs.

Nest boxes for setting hens should be constructed
in such a manner that they may be opened or closed
as necessity demands. Before setting the hen the
nesting material and boxes should be well sprinkled
with insect powder. This operation should be
repeated at intervals of eight days during the
progress of the hatch, thus assisting the prevention
of lice and mites. A dust bath should also be pro-
vided in easy reach of the broody hen.

It is advisable to keep the hen shut up in the nest,
allowing her to come off for feed, water, and dust
bath. If the hen is restless darken the nest as much
as possible and locate her where she will not be
disturbed by any one or anything.

When the hen leaves the nest for her daily feed,
examine the nest for broken and soiled eggs. Foul
eges will affect the hatch. Feed the hen on hard
grain. Soft feed and wet mashes produce bowel
trouble. Always feed the grain in hoppers and

supply the hen with fresh water from a clean vessel.
_ The period of incubation for fowls is twenty-one

60 NATURAL INCUBATION

days, for ducks, turkeys, and guineas twenty-eight
days, and geese from thirty to thirty-five days.
Small active varieties of fowls, such as Leghorns,
often hatch in less than twenty-one days. Hatches
may be delayed a day or two by the action of the
hen. She may not sit on the eggs closely the first
day, or she may forsake the nest too long during
the hatch. The latter may also cause weakness: in
the chicks. During cold weather the eggs may be
chilled in fifteen minutes, while in warm weather
the hen may forsake her nest for hours without
materially affecting the hatch.

To secure the best results from natural incuba-
tion care must be exercised in selecting the right
kind of broody hen and in the selection of eggs.
Then one must pay every attention to the setter’s
welfare during this trying period. The best and
most diligent setter can be spoiled by neglect, and
many a poor hatch can be traced to carelessness on
the part of the operator.

An important point in selecting a setting hen is
to choose one which is quite tame. Wild hens are
apt to break some of the eggs by becoming startled
from the least noise, or by jumping from the nest
when approached. As a rule the old hens make
better setters than the pullets and should have the
preference when the selections are made.

Before the hen is placed upon the nest she should
be treated to a thorough dusting with some good

NATURAL INCUBATION 61

reliable insect powder. Hold the hen by the legs
with your left hand and lay her breast upon a piece
of paper. Sprinkle the powder with a dusting gun
or from a perforated tin box into the feathers,
rubbing it in well as you go along. Cover every
part of her plumage, under the wings, on her back,
around the vent, and in the hackle. Hold the hen
down for a minute or two so that the powder can
take effect and to prevent the hen from shaking the
powder off. By laying the hen on a piece of paper all
the powder which has fallen off can be again used,
thus saving considerable from each application.

Never set the hen upon the good eggs until she
_has been thoroughly tested out. Put her on some
china or other dummy eggs for a few days at least
and watch her actions closely during this tryout.
Take her off the nest a few times and if she goes
back and sits closely you may put in the good
eggs and start operations. This plan is a protection
to the poultry raiser, as some hens will at times show
signs of being clucky and then quit again within
a few days. My idea is to try them out for five
or six days before counting them as safe.

Hens proving reliable setters should be marked, so
that they may easily be recognized when they again
become “clucky.” The best way to mark them is to
band them and keep a record of the band number.

It often pays to keep the good setters from one
season to another for several years at least.

62 NATURAL INCUBATION

| Always supply the cluck with plenty of fresh
water, whole corn, grit and charcoal. Have these
placed conveniently to the nest so that the hen
will find them promptly when she leaves the nest.
She should also be provided with a dust bath which
will assist in keeping down the vermin and keep
her healthy.
Always bear in mind that upon the care of the
setting hen depends much of the success of the
hatch.

CHAPTER XII

ARTIFICIAL INCUBATION

HATCHING the artificial way is, with the present
day efficient incubators, simple to carry on success-
fully, and offers many advantages over the old way,
the clucky hen. Of course there are exceptions;
for instance, the poultry keeper who cares to hatch
only a few sittings and the one who owing to cir-
cumstances has not the proper location for such a
machine. Aside from these few exceptions every
poultry raiser should use an incubator.

A good incubator requires very little time and
attention. When once set and adjusted it will
regulate itself, and all the time necessary to be
devoted to its proper operation is a few minutes each
morning and each evening. I say good incubators,
because there are machines made and sold which
need almost constant watching. Such machines are
a nuisance, and are the cause for decrying of incu-
bators by some people.

Before buying a hatching machine and risking
your good money and valuable eggs therein, it is
well that you study and investigate the merits of
the incubator you have in mind. Do nct be misled
by the advice given by some writers that every
incubator is all right if it is run mght. True, the

63

64 ARTIFICIAL INCUBATION

proper operation of an incubator—a good incubator
—has much to do with the results, but on the other
hand the operator may follow the directions to the
most minute details with an improperly con-
structed machine, and the hatching results will
still be far from satisfactory. |

There are two general methods used in heating
the egg chamber—hot air and hot water. There
are good machines made with both systems, and
both have their friends and advocates. Some manu-
facturers make both kinds, and put it up to the
poultry raiser to do the choosing. The large
incubators hatching thousands of eggs are all hot
water machines, and are operated from one heating
stove.

The regulator is the most important part of a
good hatching machine; upon its accuracy depends
the uniformity of the heat in the egg chamber. A
poorly constructed regulator is difficult to regulate,
and is liable to fail in performing its function at
the most critical time of incubation. A good regu-
lator must be sensitive and at the same time be
so constructed that it has the proper amount of
durability.

Another feature which is important in an incu-
bator is the construction of the box itself. It must
be built so that it will retain the heat, and if made
of wood it should be well seasoned lumber, properly
matched, thus eliminating the danger of warping.

ARTIFICIAL INCUBATION 65

A machine properly constructed to retain the heat
will also require less oil or gas to operate, and is
not quite so much affected by the changes in tem-
perature in the operating room.

The most difficult problem Sr ontne the
operator is the moisture question. My advice on
this point is to follow the directions given by the
manufacturer, in addition making due allowances
for conditions and location of incubator. A good
hygrometer will assist materially in determining
whether or not you have the proper amount neces-
sary for best results. :

Where the heat is supplied by lamp, care must
be exercised to use one which is not defective. The
burner must be in perfect condition and the wick
must be kept properly trimmed. A common mis-
take made by inexperienced operators is to turn up
the wick too much, thinking they can heat the
machine more quickly at the start, but the result
is a smoked-up machine. Do not try to force the
machine; it may take a little time to get the egg
chamber properly heated but it is the only reliable
way to get the machine under way.

Poultry raisers who have gas piped upon their
premises should by all means use it instead of oil;
it is cleaner and saves lots of work. In some of the
smaller towns it may happen that the pressure on
the gas is not always the same, hence I would advise
making a thorough test before going to the expense

66 ARTIFICIAL INCUBATION

of making the necessary connections with the feed-
ing pipes. Some of the larger poultry farms have
small gas plants of their own, from which they heat
the incubators and indoor brooders. Electricity is
also used to a limited extent for heating incubators
and indoor brooders, in which case special machines
built for this purpose must be obtained.

There is one thing in connection with the success-
ful operation of an incubator which must be perfect,
and that one little thing is the thermometer. An
inaccurate instrument will cause all kinds of trouble,
and is ofttimes the direct cause for unsuccessful
hatches. Be sure the thermometer is not cracked
and that it has been properly tested: Another good
idea is to have an extra thermometer on hand at
all times, so as to be prepared in case of a break
or something going wrong with the one in use.

Never use a cheap, inferior oil; it is poor econ-
omy. A low grade oil is liable to make the lamp
smoke, and will not give the nice, even flame of the
better grades of oil. Always use the best to be had,
and be on the safe side.

Great care should be exercised in selecting eggs
for hatching, whether they are to be set under a
hen or placed in an incubator. To obtain the best
results eggs must be obtained from healthy, vigorous
breeding stock, and must be freshly laid, two weeks
old being the limit. The best temperature for keep-
ing eggs is from 40 to 65 degrees, and if an incu-

;

ARTIFICIAL INCUBATION 67

bator is used, it is advisable to turn the eggs
every day.

It is better to select eggs of a uniform size for
each setting, and all other eggs should be discarded.
Some breeders even go so far as to advocate setting
eggs of only one variety in a machine at a time.
This theory may hold good in some cases. For
instance, the eggs of Leghorns, coming from vigor-
ous stock, will hatch a day sooner than eggs of
the heavier breeds. On the other hand, I know
of successful hatches in incubators containing both
hen and duck eggs. One poultry raiser I know of
set a machine with seventy-five hen and forty duck
eggs, from which he hatched sixty-eight chicks and
thirty-seven ducklings. The duck eggs required
four weeks for incubation. They were put into the
incubator a week before the hen eggs, so as to make
the hatch come off more uniformly. | |

In setting an incubator avoid overcrowding. It
is sometimes very tempting to put some eggs on the
top of a full tray, but in nine cases out of ten it
turns out very unsatisfactory.

Before placing the eggs in the incubator have the
machine regulated and in good running order. After
the eggs have been thoroughly warmed a little
adjustment of the regulator may be necessary, but
not enough to cause much alarm.

Many beginners make the mistake of not read-
ing the manufacturer’s directions for operating the

68 ARTIFICIAL INCUBATION

machine. They overlook something, and generally
it turns out to be one of the most important details.
All machines are not run on the same principle,
and if the closest attention is paid to the manufac- ,
turer’s instructions, giving careful attention to every
detail, you will get better results.

A point very often overlooked is the. regular
trimming of the wick and keeping the burner clean.
Some of the other things that cause the lamp to
smoke are cheap, inferior oil and setting a machine
in a direct draft.

Tampering with the incubator while it is in
operation has caused many a disastrous hatch. This
same overanxious, meddlesome operator would
have the same result with setting hens because he
would pester them also. When a person declares
he can’t get results from setting hens, the chances
are that he will not be much of a success as an incu-
bator operator. The most successful operator is
one who carefully looks after all the details neces-
sary to operate and then trusts the machine to do
the work.

Do not neglect turning the eggs twice daily after
the second day, and continue doing so up to the
eighteenth day. After that the machine should not
be opened for any purpose whatsoever until the
hatch is complete. Keep the chicks in the incubator
until they are perfectly dry, then remove them to
the brooder. The opening of the incubator door has

ARTIFICIAL INCUBATION 69

caused many chicks to die in their shells. ‘“‘ Hands
off’’ until the machine has finished its work is good
advice to follow.

Incubators which have been stored away during
the off season need special inspection. It often hap-
pens mice will find an inviting place in some part of
the machine, and in some cases will fill the heating
tubes with nesting material, causing lots of trouble
to the operator when the lamp is lit for the first run.

The lamp should also be tested; the bowl may
have sprung a leak, or a new burner may be neces-
sary. The regulator should be carefully gone over,
it might need some balancing or possibly a little
repairing in order to make it work perfectly.

From an economical standpoint the incubator is
preferable to the hen. Hens when hatching and
brooding the chicks do not lay, and it takes from
ten to a dozen hens to take care of as many eggs
as one 150 egg incubator, whereas such an incubator
can be operated for about $1 for the three weeks’
run. The loss of eggs from ten hens would exceed
this amount, not figuring the difference in the labor
of taking care of ten broody hens and one good
incubator.

If the eggs are all right and the machine is run
right, most any one can hatch chicks “the artificial

99

way.

CHAPTER XI

ARTIFICIAL BROODING

ARTIFICIAL brooding of chicks presents similar
problems to artificial incubation. The general prin-
ciple is to substitute in an artificial way the same
heat supplied by the hen. Although it does not
require as uniform a temperature as does incuba-
tion, still there must not be any too marked changes.
To almost roast the chicks part of the time and then
chill them the balance of the time is bound to pro-
duce bowel trouble and death. Variations in the
heat to a reasonable extent will not do much harm,
but it is best to have the brooder regulated so as to
maintain a uniform temperature throughout the day

and night.

Most of the good brooders heated by lamp nave
a regulator attached, very similar to that used upon
incubators, and with such an arrangement the
degrees of temperature can be easily kept at a unt-
form point. Such brooders require less watching
and save considerable labor to the busy poultry
raiser.

Brooders must be properly ventilated, and to
secure that degree of ventilation necessary with-
out seriously affecting the temperature is a problem
which ofttimes presents itself to the inexperienced

7O

ARTIFICIAL BROODING 7t

poultryman. The tendency is to overcrowd the
brooders, and to overcome this crowded condition
more and larger openings must be made to permit
free passage of fresh air, hence the temperature of
the brooder is more difficult to regulate, and in
some cases it is almost impossible to do it.

Overcrowding the brooder is about the worst
mistake one can make. This practice results in
heavy losses, and a weakening condition to those
who are fortunate enough to withstand this hard-
ship. In many cases the blame for this overcrowd-
ing on the part of the inexperienced operator can
be laid at the doors of the manufacturers of some
of the brooders, who in their desire to outdo the
claims of their competitors in the same line of
business, overrate the actual and safe capacity of
their brooders. Thus the novices, who are not
_ versed sufficiently on the subject of artificial brood-
ing, are misled by the very people with whom they
place their confidence. It is unjust on the part of
the manufacturers to misrepresent such an impor-
tant factor as capacity, and I believe it will react
upon them in the end. ;

When the brooder is overcrowded and the chicks
die in large numbers, in many. cases the blame is
placed upon the brooder, hence the manufacturer
loses both the friendship and future orders of the
imposed upon poultry keeper.

Another fact which is not always taken into con-

72 _ ARTIFICIAL BROODING |

sideration is the growing of the chicks. A brooder
may be sufficiently large to take proper care of, say,
100 chicks during the first week of their existence,
but in a few more weeks this same lot of youngsters
would be of such a size that the capacity of the
aforesaid brooder would be inadequate to hover
such a number properly without being very much
overcrowded. A little common sense used on such
subjects will overcome lots of disappointments and
losses, and although it is best to follow the manufac-
turer’s directions as much as possible in the opera-
tion of a brooder, it nevertheless is advisable to use
your own judgment as well.

Most any one, no matter how inexperienced,
should be able to note when the brooder is over-
crowded, and when the little fellows seem to be
uncomfortable. At the first appearance of crowd-
ing the flock should be divided, and some of them
put into another brooder. To endeavor to save on
equipment, space, and labor at the expense of the .
health of the chicks is indeed poor economy, and
will prove costly in the end. If you cannot afford
to purchase the necessary brooders to take the
proper care of your incubator capacity, it would be
to your interest to set less eggs and thus eliminate
the possibilities of heavy losses in the chicks, and
impairing the health of the entire flock of young-
sters. Many a novice has made this mistake, and in
almost every case has paid dearly for it.

ARTIFICIAL BROODING 73

The novice should heed the oft repeated asser-
tion, “It’s easier to hatch the chicks than to raise
them.” Good eggs placed in a good incubator run
properly or placed under a hen will hatch, but to
properly care for the little creatures presents a more
difficult problem. To properly care for chicks means
to supply them with the things which nature intends
they should have to promote their health and
growth,

Warmth is the first essential to their welfare.
When hens are used to mother the broods there will
be no trouble in this direction, unless perhaps too
many chicks are placed in their charge, but where
the artificial methods are used improper tempera-
tures are apt to cause many losses before the causes
are detected by the inexperienced. The low and
irregular temperatures of brooders have caused
more cases of diseases and deaths than any other
one thing in the artificial brooding of chicks.

First of all the novice should install a brooder
which will meet his particular case. What I mean
by this is he must pay some attention to where the
artificial mother is to be located, whether in a warm
room, a fairly warm henhouse, or in the yard.
There are heated indoor, heated outdoor, and fire-
less brooders; all have their advocates. It would
be far from practical to put a heated indoor or a
fireless brooder outside during the early part of
the season, nor would it be economical to purchase

ea

-_

74 ARTIFICIAL BROODING

an outdoor heated brooder for indoor use. These
things must all be taken into consideration when
the equipment is obtained.

One of the late inventions along this line is a
portable hover which can be used in a warm room
during the early part of the season, and as weather
conditions improve it can be installed in a colony
house or some other unheated building. I believe
that this style of hover will be popular, as it can
be moved from place to place as occasion demands,
necessitating only one style of equipment for both
indoor and outdoor use.

Before taking the chicks from the incubator and
placing them in the brooder it is advisable to operate
the latter for a day or two, so as to have it heated
up and properly regulated at about 90 degrees.
When the chicks are then put in the temperature is
bound to rise, and care should then be taken that
it does not go much above 98 degrees, which
temperature may be retained for the first week.
The second week the temperature should be reduced
to about 9o degrees, the third week to 85, and after
that about 80 degrees as long as the chicks need
brooding. An outdoor brooder will need to be regu-
lated with weather conditions; cold nights should
be especially guarded against.

Chicks not supplied with the proper amount of
artificial heat will crowd, no matter how few are
placed in the brooder. It is instinctive for them

ARTIFICIAL BROODING 75

to huddle and endeavor in that way to keep them-
selves warm. When the proper amount of heat is
given to the chicks they will invariably spread out
on the floor of the brooder and be contented.
Crowding will result in some being trampled to
death, while others will be retarded in their growth,
or possibly become affected with white diarrhcea.

Keep the brooder heated until the chicks get so
far developed that they no longer care to go under
the hover, when they may be removed to the colony
houses to make room for ancther brood. Some make
the mistake of taking the heat away from the chicks
too soon, with the result that they will have a lot
of stunted chicks. Leave it to the chicks to decide
when they should be taken from the brooder, and
you will always be on the safe side.

Cover the bottom of the brooder with short cut
alfalfa, clover, or fine cut straw, which should be
removed when it gets soiled, the bottom sprinkled
with a good disinfectant, and a new bedding put
in. Some also use dry dirt and sand for floor cov-
ering.

Feeding is an important factor in the successful
raising of chicks. For the first thirty-six hours
the newly hatched need no feed at all, as the yolk
of the egg is absorbed, furnishing them with suffi-
cient nourishment. After this period has elapsed
give them a supply of fine grit and charcoal, and
if possible feed them some hard boiled eggs. The

76 ARTIFICIAL BROODING

infertile eggs from the incubator may be used for
this purpose. Then feed them some good commer-
cial chick food, or if this is not easily obtainable,
give them a mixture of steel cut oatmeal, millet
seed, and fine cracked corn.

Never feed any sloppy, wet feeds, as it has a ten-
dency to cause bowel trouble. Give them plenty
of milk or water to drink and keep the vessels clean,
a scouring each day will not take much time and
will be a precaution against disease.

Give the chicks plenty of green food, sprouted
oats, or tender grass, also some fine beef scraps, or
some raw meat cut up fine. They relish the latter
and it does them much good, serving the same
purpose as insects.

Keep the little ones busy by feeding the ground
grain feeds in the litter, and feed them four or
five times daily.

If the foregoing advice is closely followed the
amateur poultry raiser will have little trouble in
raising a flock of healthy chicks and developing
them into vigorous pullets and cockerels.

If a common, ordinary shallow dish is used the
chicks will invariably hop into it, not only contin-
ually getting their feet wet but also keeping the
water so soiled that it is unfit to drink. An auto-
matic water fountain will prevent this, and is the
only device which should be used on a well regu-
lated poultry plant. There are many kinds upon

ARTIFICIAL BROODING pa

‘the market which can be purchased at a nominal
price, but those who cannot afford to spend any
money on such devices can with little trouble
make one. Take an empty tomato can, or any kind
Of a2 fruit can, for that matter, scour it out thor-
oughly, punch a small hole (about a quarter of an
inch will do) close to the bottom, or open end.
Fill the can with water, place a saucer, or other
shallow dish, over it, hold the dish tight, and then
revert, so that the saucer will be on the bottom.
Only enough water will come out of the can into
the saucer at a time to cover the space up to the
top of the punched hole, thus giving an automatic
drinking fountain. Do not use a leaky can, as it
must be perfectly airtight on top, otherwise all of
the water will come out at once. Care must also
be taken not to punch the top of the hole higher
than the depth of the saucer, or the fountain will
overflow. This kind of fountain is easily cleaned,
cheaply constructed, and answers the purpose for —
which it is intended.

CHAPTER) bv
DEVELOPMENT OF CHICKS

Upon the activity of a brood of chicks depends their
rapid growth and development. Chicks which are
not active will not take to the food as they should,
nor will they develop their tiny muscles to such an
extent as to give them the proper amount of bodily
strength. Good appetites mean healthy chicks, and
healthy chicks are bound to grow.

Keep the chicks moving and don’t bridle them
up in a small space where exercise is impossible.
When chicks are about. ten days old they should
have access to a run, not necessarily a large run, but
one sufficiently roomy to permit them to scratch
and play. Cover the floor of this run with an abun-
dance of chaff, short cut alfalfa, cut clover, or some
other similar material which gives them something
to scratch in. If the dry grain feeds are scattered
in this litter you may rest assured the little fluffy
fellows will do their share of scratching. It is
very interesting to see them work, digging down
in the chaff and throwing it all about them and en-
joying the grains when they get them. It denotes
life in the little flock and makes one feel that they
are contented and happy.

Another good form of exercise is to hang up a

78

DEVELOPMENT OF CHICKS 79

head of lettuce or cabbage and make them jump
up for their green food. They will also enjoy jump-
ing at a peeled apple suspended by a cord. A little
fine chopped up raw meat thrown in the run, a little
at a time, will make them scamper about like a bunch
of football players in full action.

When the weather is pleasant and chicks are a
few weeks old they should be given outdoor exer-
cise on dry ground runs, and later in the season
on grass runs if such a thing is possible. Chicks
can be reared up to nine and ten weeks on board
runs, and many are raised every year without
being put upon the ground at all, but experiments
along this line have shown that chicks given ground
runs are hardier and healthier than those denied
nature’s earth to run on. ‘Their special delight
seems to be to dig into freshly turned soil. For
hours they will scratch in this fresh earth, and no
doubt they find many things which are beneficial
to them and which are not supplied in their regular
rations of feed and grits. The fresh air and the
sunshine they get out in the open are also very es-
sential to their growth and development. Of course
it is understood that the chicks should be kept in
during rainy and damp days, or when the dew is
heavy on the grass in the morning. Dampness is
liable to cause Jeg weakness or bowel trouble, two
very much dreaded diseases among poultry breeders.
_ Lice on growing chicks will also retard their

80 DEVELOPMENT OF CHICKS

growth and development. But lice come from ne-
glect. Careful, painstaking poultry raisers are sel-
dom troubled with these pests to any great extent.
At any rate they do not get a hold upon their flocks.

Filthy and poorly ventilated houses will also un-
dermine the vigor of the growing pullets and affect
their laying possibilities. Cleanliness means dollars
to the poultryman.

Many pullets get their first setback in improp-
erly heated, crowded, or poorly ventilated brooders.
Some persons hatch more chicks than they can prop-
erly take care of with the brooding equipment at
hand. They take a chance and pay the penalty not
only by losing many of the chicks, but also by af-
fecting the vitality of those birds fortunate enough
to pull through. The profits are not in what you
hatch, but in what you raise to maturity.

Figure your capacity correctly and see to it that
your brooder outfits are in keeping with your incu-
bator capacity. Of course the one who uses the old
hen to do the work need not figure these things; his
or her worries will come later when they have eggs
to set and no clucky hens to set them under.

The average weight of a newly hatched chick is
about one and one-quarter to one and one-half
ounces. In three or four weeks it should weigh
one and one-half pounds; at six or eight weeks a
pound; nine to eleven weeks, two pounds, and at
three months it should be up to two and one-half or

DEVELOPMENT OF CHICKS SI

three pounds. From then on the youngster should
gain about a pound a month until six months, when
it should have its full growth.

Chicks raised on range, when taken from the
brooder, should be provided with movable colony
houses, holding 50 chicks each. These houses should
have open fronts, and should be placed facing the
south. The open fronts should be protected with
some kind of an awning, or built in such a manner
that the heavy rains cannot blow into the interior of
the colony houses.

CHAPTER (ey

WEANING THE CHICKS

WEANING time is the time to take the chicks away
from the “c'1cks”’ or brooders, as the case may be.
The weaning process should start at the age of 6 to
8 weeks, or better still when the chicks show signs
of wanting to roost on the top of the hover or other
places about the brood coop. In most cases the
chicks themselves will indicate to you when they are
no longer in need of heat and mothering.

When these signs are apparent they should be re-
moved to new quarters arranged for them. Com-
fortable houses should be provided for their recep-
tion. When I say comfortable I mean everything
the word implies, everything necessary for their
health and to promote their growth.

Any old house or box will not do. It must be
waterproof, so as to keep out the hard summer rains,
not only from the top, but also from the sides. Face
it to the south or east, never to the north or west.
Provide plenty of fresh air by having the front as
much open as possible. Growing stock reared in
open front houses will develop into hardier fowls
than those too closely housed. Fresh air and plenty
of it, both during the day and at night, is an abso-
lute necessity to proper development.

82

WEANING THE CHICKS 83

‘Have the houses built of a size in keeping with the
number of birds to occupy them. Overcrowding is
bound to result in trouble for the operator — the
stunting of the chicks, disease or deaths. Have the
front so arranged that the sun will penetrate almost
every part of the house at certain times during the
day. Plenty of sunshine with good ventilation will
do more to keep away disease than all the disinfec-
tants on the market.

These houses should have removable roosts, built
rather low, so that the young stock will have no diffi-
culty in getting on to them, and also preventing the
danger of injuries to their feet from too high a jump
on the hard floor below. I recommend removable
roosts to facilitate the cleaning of the houses.

Before the chicks are removed to the new quar-
ters, the houses should be given a thorough white-
washing, thus making them sanitary and almost
vermin proof. The chicks should also be closely ex-
amined for lice before occupying the new homes,
and at the least sign of any vermin they should all
be well dusted with insect powder.

Do not give the growing chicks any opportunity
to roost upon the cross studdings. If such are used
in the construction of the house cover them with a
slanting piece of wood which makes it almost im-
possible for them to perch on. The roosts should
also not be round, as such roosts are apt to cause
crooked breastbones. Always use flat roosts about

84 WEANING THE CHICKS

three inches wide, and of sufficient capacity to ac-
commodate the number of chicks comfortably, allow-
ing plenty of room for them to grow.

The trouble with many amateurs is they do not
figure on the chicks’ growth and development. The
house seems large enough when the chicks are placed
therein, but soon it shows signs of being too small.
Remember, do not build for today, but build for
three months hence. It is better economy to have it
a little too large than too small.

As a floor covering for these growing houses I
strongly recommend clean sand. If this is scattered
about to a depth of about two inches it will readily
absorb the droppings, keeping the houses in a more
sanitary condition than if the droppings are per-
mitted to fall upon the bare floor. If this sand cov-
ering is raked thoroughly twice a week it is not
necessary to replace it more often than twice a
month.

Where space is limited and the growing stock can-
not be given free range runs must be provided of
sufficient dimensions to afford the chicks exercise.
These runs must be provided with plenty of shade.
Small trees, bushes, or shrubbery are the best for
this purpose, but where these cannot be provided a
canvas or board covering should be constructed at
one end of the run.

The drinking vessels should always be placed in
the shade and the water therein should be renewed

WEANING THE CHICKS 85

at least twice a day during the summer months.
Clean drinking vessels with plenty of fresh water
will assist greatly in keeping the flock in the best
condition during their growth.

Spade up some of the soil in the runs and give the
chicks a chance to scratch and wallow in it. They
will find many things in that freshly spaded soil
which cannot be supplied to them in an artificial way.

Kill the cripples and sickly looking specimens;
they will never amount to much and are only in the
way of those that are growing and doing nicely.

CHAPTER XVI

FEEDING THE GROWING STOCK

Don’t be hasty in feeding the growing stock the
larger grains. The comparative cheapness of whole
corn and oats to that of the mixed chick foods offers
temptations to the amateur to rush the feeding of
the chicks. To pursue such a policy will result in
retarding the growth, and in many cases disease and
death will follow in rapid succession.

The smaller grains are more easily digested, thus
assisting nature greatly in its work, and eliminating
to a great extent the possibility of sour crop and in-
digestion. Of course it is understood that when the
chicks are considerably advanced they should not be
fed on the smaller chick foods, but should be put
upon the coarser grades.

A good reliable growing mash should also be fed
from a trough or dry food hopper. This can be
placed before them at all times as the chicks are not
very apt to eat too much of this dry fine mixture at
any time. Never feed any wet, sloppy mashes of
any kind to the growing stock, as they are unneces-
sary and dangerous to the health of the flock. Dry
wheat bran makes an excellent feed for the growing
stock, and can be fed in unlimited quantities.

Keep the chicks well supplied with granulated

86

FEEDING THE GROWING STOCK 87

bone, charcoal and beef scraps. The latter must be
fresh and free from any musty odor. Much damage
has been done in growing flocks from the feeding of
poor dry beef scraps, and great care should be exer-
cised in purchasing this article. Charcoal is one of
the most important things to have about the poultry
yards, notwithstanding the claim of some poultry-
men, who say it is unnecessary when the fowls and
chicks are given the proper foods in the right pro-
portions. It keeps the gases down and assists diges-
tion, preventing many cases of bowel trouble, and
other diseases. My advice is to keep charcoal before
the birds at all times.

Meat in some form must be fed to poultry, they
must have animal matter. Fowls running on free
range where insects are plentiful obtain a sufficient

supply of animal matter, but those kept in closer
- quarters must be given this food in another form.
Finely chopped fresh meat is an excellent bone and
muscle builder for the young stock, but should not
be fed more often than two or three times a week.
Green bone cut freshly just before feeding, is equally
as beneficial but must also be fed with judgment as
to how much and how often. Meat foods assist
feather, bone, muscle and comb development, conse-
quently too much is very apt to cause too much forc-
ing along these lines.

The poultryman who is careless in his purchases
is liable to get a supply of grains which are too fresh

88 FEEDING THE GROWING STOCK

for immediate feeding. Grains of all kinds should
be fairly well seasoned before they are given to
the stock, especially the growing chicks. Unseasoned
grains cause bowel trouble and indigestion. ‘Those
who have the room should lay in a supply of old
grains before the new crop is put upon the mar-
ket, thus avoiding all dangers of being forced to
purchase the newly gathered crop. New wheat and
new corn are more dangerous than the other grains
and should be especially avoided.

The growing stock must have lots of green food.
Give them all the lawn clippings, lettuce, beet tops,
mustard plants, or sprouted oats they will eat. Birds
in confinement must be supplied with these necessi-
ties, they are absolutely necessary to the proper
health and development of the flock. Raw potatoes
or potato peelings are also good.

Do not throw out the sour milk, give it to the
chicks; it is a very valuable food for them, and much
relished. Skim milk or buttermilk is also very good.

CHAPTER (MV IL

BUILDING THE FRAME

In raising chicks for the market it is absolutely
necessary to build the frame before putting on the
fat. Inexperienced poultry raisers often start their
chicks with too much fat forming food, containing
a very small percentage of ash and protein. The
growing chicks must have the frame, bone and muscle
to carry the fat, without these the result will be leg
weakness and other ailments, and in many cases the
retarding of the growth. It is only reasonable to
build the foundation first before going on with the
rest of the structure. A chick with a proper devel-
oped frame, well formed bones and good muscles
will take on fat readily when the time comes for
such development.

Do not attempt to crowd matters along this line,
go about it systematically, build up from the bottom,
and put on the finishing touches when the time is at
hand to do so. It is possible to force a chick, but
that forcing must be done first on the bones and
muscles, and then the fat. Remember, the frame
must first of all have the carrying capacity, or there
is sure to be some kind of a breakdown. Sometimes
these breakdowns will not be in evidence at the be-
ginning, but later on they will surely crop out.

89

90 BUILDING THE FRAME

Many broods are started with too much corn meal,
and later too much cracked corn in their grain foods.
Corn contains a very small percentage of ash or min-
eral matter, very little protein, and a very large per-
centage of carbohydrates, as a fattener it is excellent
but as a bone and muscle builder it has very little
value. I do not wish to leave the impression not to
feed any corn to the growing chicks, but what I wish
to convey to the amateur poultry raiser is the danger
in feeding too much corn, or for that matter too
much of any food which contains too much fat form-
ing substances. Americans and especially the farm-
ers rely too much upon corn as a food, and the low
price, compared with other grains grown upon our
farms offers an incentive to use it more freely. To
feed lots of corn because it is cheaper will in the end
prove to be poor economy, and such a policy of sav-
ing is condemned by every experienced poultry
raiser.

Strength and vigor must be in the chick when it is
hatched, but that strength and vigor must be encour-
aged and must grow with the development of the
chick. No matter how healthy and strong the chick
may be when hatched, the strength will soon dis-
appear when not given the proper feed and atten-
tion. It is much easier to run a flock down than to
build it up, and nothing will run down a flock of
chicks quicker than improper feeding.

Oats and wheat contain a good percentage of the

BUILDING THE FRAME gI

elements necessary to build bone and muscles, the
former especially is one of the very best poultry
foods to be found. To the oats and wheat may be
added kaffir corn, millet and some cracked corn, all
of which combined forms an excellent grain food
for the growing chicks.

Wet mashes containing boiled potatoes and other
starchy foods are also condemned as a food for the
growing chicks, as they are very fattening and very —
apt to cause bowel trouble and indigestion. Person-
ally | am very much opposed to feeding any kind of
wet mashes at any time; as experiments have shown
that dry mashes produce better results with less dan-
ger of the birds overeating, and practically no dan-
ger of sour crops or bowel troubles originating there-
from. A mixture of bran, middlings, ground oats,
mealed alfalfa, to which may be added when fed
some high grade beef scraps, makes an ideal dry
mash for the growing chicks, and although this is
not a forcing food it assists materially in building
up the chicks and developing them as quickly as
nature intended them to advance.

The evenly, steadily growing chicks are the ones
that make good, and are superior to those that have
been forced in development.

CHAPTER XVEI

CONSTITUTIONAL VIGOR

WHETHER we breed fancy, utility, or mongrel fowls
there should be a constant endeavor to build up the
flock if we expect to attain success. Probably I
should have left the mongrel hen out of considera-
tion, though I have known mixed flocks that gave a
good account of themselves. But as a rule, when.a
person gets to the point where he or she is sufficiently
interested in the hens to improve them, it does not
take long to be convinced that if there is to be any
marked improvement pure bred fowls must be kept.

The breed matters little, being largely a matter of
personal preference. What is most important is the
constitutional vigor of the flock, and that is a matter
of careful selection, breeding and care.

This care must be exercised first by the beginner
in the purchasing of the breeding stock, baby chicks
or the eggs, and this same careful selection for hardi-
ness and vigor must be continued during the future
operation of the poultry plant. A flock may easily
deteriorate and not be profitable.

To accomplish the greatest amount of good in
building up the flock it will be necessary to start with
the chicks from the time they are taken from the

Q2

CONSTITUTIONAL VIGOR 93

incubator and keep them steadily developing. Not
alone this, but the process of elimination must begin
early.

Few poultrymen have the courage to cull as closely
as they should, and this is more nearly true of the
great number of nonprofessionals, who have small
flocks. Some will take the weak and sickly chicks
from the incubator and by coddling and doctoring
them possibly save their lives, but seldom do such
chicks amount to much in the end. Who would care
to buy chicks from such stocks?

It is better by far to kill all the weaklings and
cripples as soon as they are discovered. It is much
preferable to have less chicks and have them vigor-
ous and healthy, thereby assisting to build up the
flock.

Give the chicks every attention during the brooder
period, feeding regularly the first few days, and
looking after their every want. Feed them good
clean commercial chick food, composed of small
grains, and a dry mash of wheat bran and middlings.
Supply them with plenty of fresh water, grit, char-
coal, and a little meat in some form.

In order to produce strong, healthy hens there
must be no check to the chicks’ growth, but, on the
other hand, it is not advisable to force them. Pullets
may be hastened to maturity and their laying stim-
ulated in various ways, but it will surely weaken the
constitution and destroy the hen’s value as a breeder.

Q4 CONSTITUTIONAL VIGOR

A good steady growth is more desirable and will win
out in the long run. ae

After the chicks have passed the brooder stage
give the youngsters a roomy coop and a run, so as to
give them exercise. Give them plenty of green stuff
and animal matter. Keep the coops and runs
clean— filthy quarters will breed disease and ver-
min. Coarser grains should then be fed.

Throughout the summer the culling process <>2uld
continue if the flock’s standard is to be materiaily
raised. As the chicks grow some will show imper-
fections, and these should be culled out as soon as
possible. Those having crooked tails or bones should
not be retained in the lot. These defects are not
always transmitted to offspring, but no chances
should be taken on this score. Besides, such speci-
mens detract from the general appearance of a flock.
The defective birds, along with the undersized ones,
should be put into the fattening pens preparatory to
being used for the table or market.

If the breeder will only study his flock, going over
them carefully and retaining only the best for future
breeding, the standard of the flock will be increased
each year, and this improvement will increase the
earning capacity of the plant.

CHAPTER XIX

SUMMER MANAGEMENT

SuMMER is always a busy time in the well regulated
poultry yard. The stock, both old and young, must
receive special attention. Hot weather breeds both
lice and disease, unless every precaution is taken to
prevent their appearance in the flocks.

A little neglect during hot months is very apt to
cause the poultry raiser much trouble. A few hours’
extra work now may be the means of saving many
hours of work and anxiety later, not to mention the
losses in dollars and cents.

Don’t be unmindful of the fact that thousands of
chicks and grown fowls succumb during the hot
menths from the ravages of insects and disease. A
large percentage of this mortality could be overcome
if more vigilance were exercised by many of the
poultry keepers.

Filthy quarters during warm weather are bound
to result in trouble. Heat and filth play hand in
hand to increase vermin to an alarming extent and
under such favorable conditions it is difficult to
arrest their progress. Let the vermin once get a
good start and the work of extermination means a
hard fight and a persistent one. The experienced
poultryman needs no warning, he knows too well

95

\
96 SUMMER MANAGEMENT

how rapidly these pests will increase and the damage
they can do in a comparatively short time. Begin-
ners are very often too slow to detect the presence
of insects and when they are discovered they have
gained a good foothold upon the flock.

In many cases the trouble originates with the set-
ting of the hens. The inexperienced poultry raiser
fails to dust these at intervals of a week during the
progress of the incubation with the result that the
hen comes off the nest with her brood of chicks
loaded with lice, which in turn are transmitted to
the chicks.’ A cluck setting on a nest does not have
the opportunity to dust herself as frequently as the
other hens, and this coupled with the fact that her
body is possessed with a higher temperature makes
the conditions more ideal for the propagation of
vermin.

Those who have started to combat vermin early in
the season need not fear the ravages of these pests
as much as those who have been neglectful in this
direction, but nevertheless they must keep preventa-
tives on the job at all times. Keep the houses ex-
ceptionally clean during the hot spell, disinfect thor-
oughly, change nesting material often, spray the
nesting boxes, give the fowls free access to a dust
bath, and examine the birds often. Should the poul-
tryman notice the first sign of vermin, every bird
should be taken in hand and thoroughly dusted with
the best poultry lice powder obtainable. Another

SUMMER MANAGEMENT 97

advisable thing to do is to paint the roosts with a
reliable lice paint, and the nesting boxes may be
treated in a like manner.

Keep the poultry house free from any foul odors
during the hot summer months. A good reliable dis-
infectant used properly will assist greatly in this di-
rection. Air slaked lime swept over the floor and
dropping boards after each cleaning will keep the
house free from odors and act as a germicide, pre-
venting disease and assisting materially in keeping
down the insects. Every poultryman should keep a
barrel of air slaked lime on the premises and use
it freely.

Too much cannot be said about the drinking ves-
sels. Many of the diseases infecting our domestic
fowls come from unsanitary fountains. A drinking
vessel cannot be kept clean and sanitary by merely
washing it out with cold water, or possibly playing
the full force of the hydrant upon it; it must be
scoured often. A good plan is to dip it in a solution
of disinfectant, or boil it out with steaming hot
water to which has been added some soda. Drink-
ing vessels require more care in summer than winter
as the warm weather produces a more slimy settle-
ment in the water.

Remember, clean, sanitary drinking vessels, clean
houses, clean yards and a continuous warfare on ver-
min are essential to hot weather poultry keeping.

Have your poultry houses cool in summer,— it is

98 . SUMMER MANAGEMENT

just as important and possibly more so than having
them warm in winter. To confine fowls in hot
poorly ventilated sleeping quarters during the sum-
mer night is bound to show its effects upon the
breeding stock as well as the growing chicks.

I have found it very advantageous to have a
wood or canvas awning over the windows during the
hot summer days. It will assist materially to keep
the house more comfortable,— shutting out the hot
sun-rays and also affording a protection for the sud-
den heavy summer showers which may come on
during one’s absence from home. If the board can-
opy is used it should be attached with hinges, which
makes it possible to be raised and lowered as occa-
sion demands. Do not have the boards covered with
tin, either have them made from matched flooring
or covered with roofing paper. Tin will draw the
heat from the sun, and I do not recommend it for
any kind of poultry house coverings.

Poultry houses should be sunned out some during
the day, but it is far from advisable to have the sun
beat into it during the biggest part of the day, result-
ing in making the house more of an oven than a
roosting place for hens. Remember the fowls feel
the heat as much as human beings and it is necessary
to assist them in keeping comfortable.

Poultry which is housed in cool houses at night,
and given lots of shade to run under during the day,
is bound to show better results for the egg basket.

SUMMER MANAGEMENT 99

Fowls which have been exhausted from the heat can-
not be expected to be in the best laying condition.

Most of the hens have been hard at work during
the spring months shelling out eggs, hence they need
all the comfort possible in order that they may con-
tinue in their work. A good circulation of fresh air
during the roosting hours can be provided at little or
no expense, even though it be necessary to make
several temporary openings for the summer months.

Poultry houses in which the windows are all
placed considerably below the ceiling should have a
ventilator at the extreme height of the building to
carry away as much of the heat gathering above the
windows as possible. It is well to protect such ven-
tilators in such a way as to prevent the rains from
blowing into them.

Many poultrymen have doors covered with wire
netting, which are used instead of the wooden struc-
tures during hot summer days and nights. The wire
doors will admit lots of fresh air, and at the same
time keep out the prowlers of the night. It is not
advisable to keep the doors open during the night
without some kind of protection.

There are many other ideas which can be used to
advantage in devising a way to keep the poultry
houses comfortable, if the poultry raiser will only
give the subject the amount of thought it deserves.

Change the water at least twice a day, and keep
the drinking fountains in a shady place.

100 SUMMER MANAGEMENT

Do not feed too much corn, it is too heating, and
has a tendency to make the hens “ clucky.”

Disinfect the poultry houses thoroughly at least
once a week, use a sprayer for this purpose, as it
can be done more effectively with such a device.

Change the nesting material often. Use clean
straw well sprinkled with insect powder. The nest-
ing boxes should also be treated with a liberal supply
of disinfectant.

If possible gather the eggs twice each day so as to
prevent any possibility of “clucky”’ hens setting on
them for any length of time.

Do not permit your hens to roost out of doors be-
cause the weather is warm. It teaches them a very
bad habit.

Dry bran and middlings are good feeds during the
summer months. Always feed these dry, in a hop-
per.

Keep the grit boxes well filled with coarse, sharp
grit, charcoal and oyster shells. Even though the
hens have free range, it is advisable to have these
necessities in boxes placed near the dry food hoppers.

Throw the lawn clippings into the poultry runs.
Give the fowls all the green food they can eat.

Never use a drinking fountain which cannot be
easily cleaned. Unsanitary drinking vessels are very
liable to cause disease during the warm weather.

Lots of shade is the proper thing. To force the
hens to take to the henhouse for shade during the

SUMMER MANAGEMENT 101

hot summer days is a mistake and should not be tol-
erated on a well regulated poultry plant. Shade
trees and small shrubbery are a valuable asset to a
poultry run, but where these are not to be had, some
kind of a shade shelter should be constructed. Some
poultry keepers build the houses high enough up
from the ground to permit the hens to run under the
buildings for shelter.

Do not let the growing stock run with the laying
hens. The chicks need different care and feeding
than the old stock.

Remove the broody hens to other quarters as
soon as they are discovered. A broody hen is liable
to cause trouble in the laying hens.

Dig up the soil in the runs. It will do the hens
good to wallow in the freshly turned earth.

If the runs are small, rake and clean them out
often.

Do not set the hens in the hay loft, or in the gar-
ret, set them either on the ground or as close as
possible to it. Soil helps to furnish moisture to the
eggs, a necessity for successful hatching.

Do not keep the “mother”? with her brood in a
closed, stuffy box at night. Both the hen and the
chicks need lots of fresh air.

If any of the hens should show signs of being off
their feed give them a dose of epsom salts. It is
advisable to put some epsom salts in the water now
and then. Do not do this too often, once every two

102 SUMMER MANAGEMENT

or three weeks, during the summer months, is suffi-
cient.

If you feed green ground bone be sure that it is
freshly ground each day, as it will easily spoil dur-
ing hot weather. Tainted meats or meat products
are not safe to feed to poultry.

Farmers are very apt to neglect their poultry dur-
ing the summer months, being busy in the fields.
This is a serious mistake. Would these same farm-
ers even think of neglecting the cows and hogs?
Why, then, the poultry?

CHAPTER XX

BUILDING UP A LAYING STRAIN

BUILDING up a laying strain is a subject that is re-
ceiving much attention among the poultry raisers in
these days of high prices for eggs. Experience has
taught poultrymen the futility of haphazard methods
formerly practiced in the selecting and caring of
flocks. Proper selections in the breeding stock,
coupled with correctly balanced rations and good
care have brought about wonderful changes in the
productiveness of the present day hen.

To build up a laying strain, man must assist na-
ture; fixed methods must be used in the breeding;
some system must be devised for the selection and
good judgment used in the feeding. It requires
study and work to bring about the desired results.

Every one who has had any experience with poul-
try knows that among hens of the same breeds, and
even from the same parents, there is a difference in
the productiveness. It is another case of proving
that like does not always produce like. That is one
reason good laying strains are not so easily made.
The great stumbling block with the utility poultry
raiser is the inability to distinguish between good
and poor layers in a flock of otherwise healthy hens.

The average farm flock of today is not up to the

103

104 BUILDING UP A°LAYING STRAIN

standard in productiveness because little attention is

paid by the farmer to the selection of his breeding
stock and in caring for his flock. Many a farm flock
is compelled to work out its own sustenance. It
must find its own feed and water, and do its own
mating.

Such a farmer generally only thinks of the poul-
try when it is time to gather the eggs or catch some
hens for market. Ask these same farmers what
their poultry is doing and they will tell you they
couldn’t possibly give you an approximate figure as
to how many eggs the flock has laid, or how much
the flock has earned in dollars and cents, or how
many eggs and birds were used on the family table.
They cannot tell you the age of any of the hens,
and generally do not know just how many fowls
they have on the farm. They may also use the same
male bird year after year, and keep every chicken
that is hatched whether it was stunted in its growth
or not.

These same farmers are the ones that ridtcule the
articles they read about some city man or woman
making several hundred dollars each year from poul-
try raised in the back yard. If the egg market de-
pended on such producers, eggs would certainly be a
scarce commodity. There would only be breakfast
eggs for the wealthy and the poor would go without.

Much study has been given to the development of
the productiveness of our hens. State universities,

BUILDING UP A LAYING STRAIN 105

experimental stations, private individuals have spent.
time and money in carrying out experiments along
this line. Such work has resulted in much good to
the present day poultry raiser, and is assisting him
greatly in building up his flock to a higher standard
of productiveness. The various egg laying contests
which have been carried on in different parts of the
’ country have given to the public many facts showing
what the American hen is capable of doing under the
right conditions. We are just beginning to learn the
value of the hen on our farms and in our back yards.
_ The introduction of the trap nest has been a great
help to poultry raisers in selecting good layers. By
its use the egg yield of every hen can be easily ascer-
tained, and there is no more guess work necessary in
finding out which hens really do the work. Trap
nests make it possible to keep an accurate record of
each individual hen. They are now quite extensively
used throughout the country and are becoming more
popular each year.

For the benefit of the beginner who, perhaps, does
not know what a trap nest is and how it works, I will
state that it is a nest box with a door on the front
which works automatically in such a manner that it
traps a hen as soon as she is on the nest and holds
her a prisoner until released. When the hen is re-
moved from the box the band number is taken and
put on the record book for future reference. In con-
structing these trap nests great care should be taken

106 BUILDING UP A LAYING STRAIN

to supply plenty of ventilation, so as to add to the
bird’s comfort while confined therein.

Another factor which should enter into the laying
quality of a hen is the time when she lays the most
eggs. Winter eggs are, of course, most desirable,
owing to the prices obtained at that time. It will
thus be seen that it is not only advisable to pick the
hen that lays the most eggs but the one that lays
mest during the cold weather.

If you want good, substantial profits from your
poultry you must either buy your stock from a good
laying strain of birds or else build up a good laying
strain of your own. The extra time and money put
into the business for that purpose will soon come
back to you in the returns from the flock. A good
paying utility flock is one that contains a good egg
yield from every individual hen. Such a flock is
possible if the trap nest is used and the selection is
carefully carried out.

The poultry department of the New York State
College of Agriculture at Ithaca has been doing some
remarkable work in breeding for egg production.
Among its flock fifteen hens averaged 236 eggs per
year each, and twelve others averaged 182 eggs dur-
ing their first laying year. In the former lot are two
hens which have made astonishing records. Mme.
Cornell, one of these hens, laid in her first year 245
eggs, which weighed 30.6 pounds, and Lady Cornell,
the other hen, 257 eggs, which weighed 29% pounds.

BUILDING UP A LAYING STRAIN 107

Lady Cornell is a single comb white Leghorn and

only weighs 3.2 pounds, and by laying 257 eggs av-
eraging 1.8 ounces each this hen’s productive ability
during that period was 9.2 pounds of eggs for each
pound of her live weight. This is a remarkable per-
formance. In this hen’s second year she laid 200
eggs weighing 23.69 pounds, or a total egg yield for
two consecutive years of 457 eggs weighing 53.19
pounds, —
_ The wonderful showing made by this Leghorn
hen proves the truth of Dr. W. H. Jordan’s state-
ment that the productiveness of the hen is greater
than a Jersey cow in comparative live weights. Dr.
Jordan, director of the New York experiment sta-
tion, says: “If you take the dry matter of the hen
and compare it with the dry matter in the eggs she
lays in a year there will be five and one-half times
as much dry matter in the eggs as in her whole body.
The weight of dry matter in the cow’s body to the
weight of the dry matter in the milk will be as
Et) 2.9.

“In other words, based upon the dry matter, the
hen does twice as well as the cow. I suspect the hen
is the most efficient transformer of raw material into
a finished product that there is on the farm. Her
physiological activity is something remarkable. So
in that particular the hen stands in a class by her-
self.”

In terms of dry matter it has been estimated that

108 BUILDING UP A LAYING STRAIN

Lady Cornell weighed 1.4 pounds, that she consumed
in one year’s time 88.1 pounds and produced eggs
containing 10.1 pounds of dry matter, or 7.1 pounds
for each pound of dry matter in her body. These
figures more than bear out Dr. Jordan’s contentions.

A careful record was kept of this particular hen,
her trap nest record, estimated amount of food she
ate, labor required to keep her, and her earnings. It
was estimated that she ate 110 pounds of food at a
cost of $1.66; labor to keep her, 75 cents; and inter-
est on investment, 25 cents, or a total of $2.66. The
seventy-three pounds of manure were worth 29 cents.
Her eggs were sold on the Ithaca market for $7.43,
and this, added to the value of the manure estimated
at 29 cents, would make a total of receipts of $7.72.
It will thus be noted that the net profits from this
hen were $5.06 for the year.

Although this showing made by a hen is phenom-
enal, it proves that such productiveness is possible
in our domestic fowls and shows what can be done
by careful selection, proper care, and feeding. It
illustrates the evidence of human achievement in
handling the forces of nature, the gradual evolution
of the domestic fowl from the wild jungle fowls
which laid only a couple of dozen eggs a year. What
has been accomplished by Lady Cornell and her run-
ning mate, Mme. Cornell, can be accomplished by
other hens.

‘ BUILDING UP A LAYING STRAIN 109

Careful breeding, selection and feeding have made
wonderful changes in our animal life. Nearly all
our domestic animals and birds are descendants of
a wild prototype —the horse from the wild horse of
Central Asia, the dog from wolves and jackals, the
many species of pigeons from the wild Blue Rock
Pigeon, which abounds in Northern and Eastern
Madeira, Canary Islands, India and Japan.

What is true of other animal life is also true of
poultry. Our present day busy hen came from the
wild jungle fowl of Northern India. The Gallus
Bankiva, as this wild fowl is called, very closely re-
sembles the Black-breasted Indian Game, smaller in
size, and tail carried more erectly. It has required
centuries of evolution to produce the many varied
colored and shaped specimens of today. Even this
remarkable transformation of plumage and form is
nothing in comparison to the vast improvement in
egg production. The wild jungle fowl lays from six
to ten eggs a year, while there are domestic fowls
today which lay from 265 to 300 eggs a year. All
of this has been brought about by careful selection,
breeding and feeding.

There is a big variation today in the productive-
ness of our hens, and the 200 eggs a year hen is still
in the minority, in fact the vast majority of hens lay
far below this figure, and some of our neglected
farm flocks average less than a hundred per hen.

IIO BUILDING UP A LAYING STRAIN

The utility side of the hen is still open to much im-
provement, notwithstanding the rapid strides we
have made along this line.

The census reports show that the American hen
only averages 85 eggs per year, but as this report
takes in many hens which are too old to lay, or else
receive such poor treatment and feed that they can-
not do much for the egg basket, it is hardly fair to
take this figure as the basis of the average egg pro-
duction of our domestic fowls. There are many
flocks of good hens that go far above the 150 mark,
and some that average 180 and 200 in one year.- Of
course these are well bred and selected stock, which
receive the proper feed and every other attention to
make them prolific.

It is often asked whether it is possible to produce
a flock of hens that will average 200 eggs per year.
I say, yes. Do not expect to accomplish this in a
year’s breeding, that would be impossible. To ac-
complish this end, great care must be exercised in
the selection of the breeding stock to start with, and
then most diligent culling thereafter. Not alone
must you have the proper foundation stock to work
on, but you must also do the right kind of feeding
with foods of the correct balanced rations. Then
again you must have cheerful and healthful sur-
roundings in the houses and runs, plenty of exercise,
sunshine and shelter, good systematic care and every
attention must be paid to their welfare.

BUILDING UP A LAYING STRAIN III

So many farm flocks make such poor showings in
egg production on account of neglect, they are forced
to forage for themselves, or else are fed on nothing
but corn. They are housed in buildings that are cold
and damp in winter, and overrun with vermin in
summer. No attention is paid to the age of the
hens, and many stay on the farm until they die from
old age.

If the farmer who complains of poor success with
his hens would pay more attention to their wants,
give them the properly balanced rations, good hous-
ing, cull out the drones, and Keep the flock busy in
winter as well as in summer, there would be a differ-
ent story to tell. There is no reason why poultry
should not be the big payers on the farm.

CA iS

WINTER EGG PRODUCTION

It is a well known fact that hens which receive the
least care and attention will lay most of their eggs in
spring time, when conditions are most favorable for
egg production. It therefore behooves the poultry
keeper to study those conditions and endeavor to
supply the hens with the same conditions during the
colder and less favorable weather.

During the warmer period of the year the fowls
get abundance of green food, many insects, plenty of
fresh air and exercise. By supplying the hens with
these same necessities for egg production during the
colder months we may obtain to a great degree the
same favorable conditions as for the springtime egg
yield.

In order to sustain the vital forces in laying hens
during the cold weather, the daily rations must be
increased and more heat forming food must be sup-
plied, so that the fowls may be comfortable at night.
By giving the flock warm mashes or warm water it
is not necessary to feed quite so heavily, lessening, as
a matter of fact, the keep cost during the winter
months. |

For winter feeding scatter a variety of whole
grain on the litter each morning. This will produce

Ti2

WINTER EGG PRODUCTION 113

the necessary exercise and keep the hens in good
laying condition. At noon give them a warm mash
of ground grain, mixed with either skim milk or
water, not sloppy but mixed to a crumbly mass. Feed
just enough to be consumed quickly so that there
will be none left over to get cold and sour. ‘Table
scraps added to this mash will be found beneficial
and will be much relished by the fowls. Late in the
day the birds should have a supper composed of
corn, oats, and wheat or barley. A handful to each
fowl is about the correct amount, but it should vary
somewhat with the, breed and weather conditions.

The vegetable diet should not be overlooked, as
that is one of the principal items on the laying hen’s
regular bill of fare, if the proper results are to be
attained. There are many kinds of vegetable foods
which can be used for this purpose, among them
clover, alfalfa, mangel roots, turnips, cabbages, etc.
A good way to feed cabbage is to hang a head on a
string and let the hens jump for it. This supplies
them with additional exercise.

Quality of feed should also receive every consid-
eration. Do not feed any musty, moldy, or damaged
grain of any kind. Although such grains can be
purchased cheaper it is by far better to pay a little
more and get a good, healthful food. Experiments
have shown that the food consumed by a hen imparts
its flavor to the egg, just the same as the food given
the cow produces the flavor to the milk. Feed your

114 WINTER EGG PRODUCTION

hens large quantities of onions and IJ venture to say
you will find the eggs laid by your hens unfit to eat.

The color of the yolk of an egg is also affected by
the feeding. A bulletin issued by the Utah Experi-
menting Station says: “‘ It has been observed by poul-
try keepers that the yolk of eggs laid by the hens in
winter is frequently very pale. This has also been
noted in the eggs laid by hens in our experiments.
The color approaches that of a lemon, while the nor-
mal color is more that of a ripe orange. Such eggs
are not classed as select, which of course affects their
saleable value.

“To determine whether the color of yolk is af-
fected by the food, several tests were made during
the past winter at the station. On February goth
pen of six White Plymouth Rocks had lucern (alfal-
fa) leaves added to their ration. The leaves were
fed dry, being thrown on the floor of the pen daily.
None of the other twenty-five pens were given any.
The green food consisted of sugar beets. Pen 6 had
sugar beets also.

“On February 27th an examination was made of
the eggs laid by this pen, and it was found that the
yolks were uniformly normal in color, while the eggs
from the other pens continued to have yolks uni-
formly pale in color. The pens were not all fed the
same ration, but the only ration that produced eggs
of normal color was the one with lucern leaves.

“Pen No. 5 as well as pen No. 6 was fed a corn

en ad ——

=

WINTER EGG PRODUCTION 115

ration; that is, their principal grain was corn; the
other pens had more wheat than corn. The corn was
a mixture of white and yellow, the white kernels
predominating, it being impossible to get any other
kind in this locality. This corn did not seem to
affect the color of the yolk, as eggs from pen No. 5
were of the same color as the other pens on the wheat
ration. Pen No. 14 was fed skimmed milk in place
of meat scraps and cut bones which the other pens
received. ‘ihe eggs from this pen were of the pre-
vailing pale color.

“On March Ist the feeding of lucern leaves to the
following pens began:— Nos. 2, 5, 7, 8, 25, and 28.
On March oth pens 9g and 11 were added to the
lucern pens, and on March 14th pens Nos. 14, 15,
18, 20, and 22 were added. On March 18th, eighteen
days after the feeding of lucern began, pen 5 on the
corn ration, and pens 7, 8, 25, and 28 on the wheat
ration, were producing eggs with yolks of normal
color. Pens 3, 10, and 27 without lucern leaves con-
tinued to lay eggs of the original pale color.

“On April 5th the eggs from pens 3, 10 and 27
were still pale in color. On this date the hens were
turned out into the yards which had a growth of
green grass, lucern and clover, and on April 16th
they were laying eggs with yolks of good color.”

It will be noted by the foregoing that alfalfa (l1u-
cern leaves) fed in winter has the same effect on
eggs as grass has during the spring and summer

116 - WINTER EGG PRODUCTION

months. Alfalfa has proven itself a very valuable
food for dairy cows, and it is becoming just as popu-
lar with poultry raisers as a winter food for hens.

Alfalfa when properly cured possesses 14 per cent
of crude protein while red clover possesses 12 per
cent and mangel roots only 1% per cent of crude
protein. The third and fourth crops of alfalfa are
most suited for poultry food. |

Usually the pullets are the best winter layers; it
is therefore advisable to keep as many pullets as
possible, if winter eggs are desired in large numbers.
Pullets that start laying in November, if given the
proper care, housing, and feeding will keep up the
pace all through the cold weather.

SS
gn me a ame et ea eee

CHAPTER XXII

OVERCROWDING

OVERSTOCKING is one of the common mistakes of
the amateur poultry raiser. His enthusiasm has run
high and his zeal is apt to get the best of him. Ca-
pacity must be reckoned with; it means much in the
way of proper results, and figures extensively in the
profits to be derived from the enterprise.

It is just as unreasonable to expect to operate a
large poultry plant in a small back yard as it is to
operate a big manufacturing plant in a small build-
ing. In either case the business would be unprofit-
able to say the least, and would soon be given up as
a failure.

Many losses among both chicks and grown-up
fowls can be attributed to overcrowding. Our do-
mestic fowl can stand considerable confinement, pro-
viding, of course, it receives the proper food and
attention, but it cannot withstand the hardship of
being kept in large numbers in a small space. Too
many fowls in a small space will breed disease, re-
sulting in a rundown flock and many deaths.
Hens when overcrowded will not produce the
proper amount of eggs, and, those eggs which are
laid will not bring forth the healthy and vigorous
chicks. Overcrowding often causes feather eating,

117

118 OVERCROWDING

one of the worst habits affecting a flock of fowls.
It is also one of the causes for roup, diarrhea, and
cholera, and when one of these diseases makes its
appearance conditions are favorable for a rapid
spreading of the disease, transmitting it to every
specimen in the flock.

The danger of falling a victim to this mistake does
not lie in the first year’s operation of the poultry
plant, but the second and third year usually open the
temptations to the inexperienced to exceed the ca-
pacity limit. By that time his ambitions have grown,
his little flock has done well, poultry keeping in the
small way has proven profitable. Why not make
four times the profit he is now making? ‘The deci-
sion is made to keep just four times as many fowls °
on the same size lot, and in many cases the same
sized houses. The inevitable results are contaminated
runs and stuffy, foul aired houses, breeding the
germs of disease and weakening the strain of birds.
Thus instead of increasing the profits they are com-
pletely wiped out, leaving a deficit on the account
books.

In many cases overstocking the capacity of the
plant is caused by the inability of the amateur to
properly cull his flock, or possibly lack of judgment
in disposing of the surplus in the season when the
demand is the best. The one who has paid fancy
prices for his starting stock or eggs for hatching
naturally expects, and has a perfect right to expect,

OVERCROWDING 119

better than the ordinary market prices for the surplus
birds and eggs. ?

One of the hardest problems for the inexperienced
to solve is how to sell the surplus fancy stock at the
best advantage. It is unreasonable to expect the
buyers to know about his surplus unless he tells
them about it. Every poultry raiser who expects to
sell fancy poultry at good prices must of necessity
spend some money for advertising. How is any one
to know that he has anything to sel! unless he
announces the fact?

First of all, the breeder must know when to adver-
tise; second, how much to spend for advertising;
third, where to advertise, and last but not least, how
to close the sale when the inquiry is made. Sales-
manship cuts some figure in the successful disposing
of surplus birds or fancy eggs. The most successful
poultry sellers are those who know how to follow up
an inquiry.

The amateur must also keep in mind the fact that
every bird he raises cannot be sold at a fancy price.
Although the original stock has come from the best
strain and has been mated for the best results as to
standard requirements, etc., there will still be speci-
mens unworthy of demanding the better prices.

Like does not always beget like in fancy stock
raising ; the best often produce only birds of ordinary
quality, lacking in many points necessary to make
them good birds to breed from. The breeder who

120 OVERCROWDING

wishes to build up the most honorable reputation will
do well to use the hatchet quite freely when culling
time comes. Do not expect others to use fowls for
breeding which you would not care to use in your
own yards. |

The careful breeder will cull his flock closely, for
upon it depends the successful building up of both
a strain and a reputation. Amateurs should keep
this advice foremost in their minds at all times. It
is the big secret of building up a successful future
in the poultry business.

Ce ae

———— a

—

CHATTER XX XUTE

ADVANTAGES OF SMALL FLOCKS

THERE are several advantages in keeping a small
flock. It is a more concentrated effort on the part
of the operator of a small poultry plant, which in
most cases means better care and attention. Of
course this is not always the result, and should not
be construed as an incentive not to breed poultry
on an extensive scale. Some of the large poultry
farms of today are conducted very successfully, and
are showing handsome profits on their investments,
but the percentage is smaller.

On a small poultry plant the operator, as a rule,
does all of the work personally, it is an individual
effort on his part without any assistance whatso-
ever. He becomes better acquainted with each
individual fowl upon the place; he soon discovers
their shortcomings, and keeps in close touch with
their development and health. If he is interested
as he should be, seldom will a sick bird escape his
notice, nor will he fail to notice a brood of chicks
which do not show the proper growth.

The one who keeps poultry in a small way can
make conditions more ideal for the hens, he can
supply to the fowls more beneficial articles. of food,
such as table scraps, which could not so easily be

121

122 ADVANTAGES OF SMALL FLOCKS

supplied to the fowls of a more extensive plant.
Even though he be an amateur he will soon learn
the wants of the hens, and what is best for the flock
kept under the particular conditions of his plant.
Different conditions require different feeding and
care, and it is not always best to follow a set rule
or method along this line.

The greatest contention of the extensive poultry
raiser is help. Good, reliable help for a poultry
farm is difficult to obtain. Inexperienced help must
be closely watched, and experienced help often have
ideas of their own not in harmony with the operator.
The one who must depend largely upon his help
to look after his hens is liable to be disappointed
in the management of his flock, unless he knows
with certainty that such employees have the ability
to conduct the plant successfully. The trouble with
many of the poultry farms seems to be the employ-
ment of cheap help, they fail to realize the impor-
tance of having men look after their stock who are
sufficiently versed in poultry keeping to get the best
results possible from the stock and equipment at
hand. Many dollars are lost by such a false
economy policy.

The intensive poultry raiser can look after every
detail himself. He sets his own hens, operates his
incubators and brooders, feeds his stock, gathers
the eggs, culls the cripples and weaklings, and per-
sonally keeps the houses clean and sanitary. His

SS .
eS ee er

ADVANTAGES OF SMALL FLOCKS 123

money is invested in the enterprise, and he realizes
that upon his personal efforts depends the success
of such an undertaking. :

Even some of the larger poultry farms divide
their pens in small flocks, claiming that they get
better results from this method, and reduce the dan-
gers of an epidemic of a contagious disease to a
minimum. Breeders of poultry for show purposes
invariably adopt this method, as it makes it pos-
sible to mate the various breeding pens for certain
points which could not be obtained as easily in any
other manner.

CHAPTER XoOny

INTENSIVE AND EXTENSIVE POULTRY FARMING

Pror. James Drypen of the department of poultry
husbandry, Oregon Agricultural College and Experi-
ment Station, has this to say on extensive and
intensive poultry culture:

“Tt is possible for a family to make a living
on a city lot from a dozen hens if the family tastes
are not extravagant, and, again, if big enough
prices are secured for the eggs laid by the hens.
We must consider the prices. There should be
breeding farms in all sections of the country if our
stock of fowls is to be improved, and there should
be in every community or country men and women
who give their special attention to the production
of improved strains of fowls, whether the point to
aim at is eggs or show points.

“There are many different systems of poultry
farming, and in speaking of profits the distinction
should be kept in mind. ‘There are possibilities of
profit in farms in which profits are added to by
selling at least part of the product for breeding
purposes at high prices. If a man makes a living
on a city lot it does not mean that he made it by
selling his eggs and poultry at ordinary market
prices.

124

TNTENSIVE POULTRY FARMING 125

“Whatever may be the dividing line between
extensive and intensive poultry farming, or what-
ever the point one merges into the other, it will be
readily assented to that a poultry farm of 100
acres, occupied by from 1,000 to 5,000 hens, is
extensive poultry farming. On the other hand, it
will also be understood that a farm of four acres,
on which 1,000 or 3,000 hens are kept, is intensive
poultry farming, and it must be conducted under
intensive methods.

“At what point by extending the acreage without
increasing the flock, or increasing the flock with-
out extending the acreage, a farm becomes more
extensive on the one hand or intensive on the other,
may be open to debate. Poultry keeping must neces-
sarily be intensive on two or three acres, where the
owner depends upon the products of the poultry
yards for a living for himself and family. Any
poultry farm up to ten acres, where enough fowls
are kept to keep a family, will require more or less
intensive methods.

“Probably the best way to define an extensive
poultry farm would be on the basis of so many
fowls per acre, or on an acreage basis. Fifty fowls
per acre or less would certainly come under the
extensive system, and it may be that the limit could
be increased to 100 per acre. When, however, we
reach 100 per acre we are getting to a point where
the poultryman must resort to artificial methods,

126 INTENSIVE POULTRY FARMING

more or less, in keeping the yards or land in proper
condition for maintaining the health and vigor of
the fowls. This raises another point. Soil varies
and the climate varies to such an extent that fifty
might be a safe limit in one case and 100 in another.
More than fifty fowls an acre on certain soil and in
certain climates might require intensive methods,
while 200 per acre on other soil and under other
climatic conditions might not require any very
intensive culture.

“The nature of the soil and the climate must
be considered. An open, porous, well drained soil
is more favorable for intensive poultry culture than
a heavy clay soil. That is, 100 fowls might be
kept on an open porous soil with less danger from
soil contamination than fifty on a heavy clay soil.
So it cannot be stated definitely that a certain
number of fowls per acre within certain limits
means either extensive or intensive culture. This
fact should be borne in mind in reading the account
I shall give of some intensive poultry farms.

“On one farm the total egg yield for 1909. was
86,519. The yield for the following year up to
Oct. 1 was 90,870. The total receipts fongige
first year were $6,493.41; the last year until Oct.
1, $5,235.48. The statement showed that the
receipts for eggs and poultry and the receipts for
breeding stock and eggs for hatching were about
equal. The flock was bred along utility lines, but

INTENSIVE POULTRY FARMING 127

the farmer had some show birds and they brought
a good price. The highest price he received for
market eggs was 55 cents and the lowest 18 cents
per dozen. The best month in egg yield during the
first year was March; the poorest November.
The second year the April yield slightly exceeded
that for March. While this agrees with conditions
in the cold eastern states, I should expect, were the
figures obtainable, that there would be a higher
percentage production here in the winter months
than in the cold states, due to a more favorable
winter climate. The eggs were sold to retail
dealers, though quite a number were sold for incu-
bation purposes at $6 per hundred. He has secured
as high as $25 for a breeding cockerel, though he
makes no specialty of breeding fancy stock.

“The system of feeding includes a dry mash
feed in the morning. The formula is as follows:
Bran, 640 pounds; ground barley, 200 pounds; feed
meal, 300 pounds; shorts, 360 pounds; blood meal,
100 pounds; fine bone, 50 pounds; alfalfa meal,
100 pounds; beef scrap, 200 pounds; oil cake meal,
100 pounds; charcoal, 20 pounds.

“Tn the evening wheat, barley, cracked corn, etc.,
are fed. For green food, kale, swiss chard, lawn
clippings, etc., are fed. Sometimes grain is sown
in the runs and plowed under. When the grain
sprouts the chickens scratch it up, thus getting
green feed and exercise. This farmer has thor-

128 INTENSIVE POULTRY FARMING

oughly learned the importance of cultivating and
growing crops in the yards to keep them in a sani-
_ tary condition, and his yards all showed that they
had intelligent care.

“One of the most interesting of intensive poul-
try farms that I have seen is situated near the Old
San Gabriel mission, not far from Los Angeles.
Here is another ‘ranch’ of four acres where 2,500
layers are kept, and the same ground has been used
continuously for five years or more. We are accus-
tomed to saying that it is impossible to keep chickens
successful year after year on the same ground, but
here is an apparent contradiction. Up to date no
serious calamity seems to have befallen the fowls
on account of soil contamination.

“Tt is, of course, another question whether the
farm can be continued for another five years
without showing symptoms of collapse; but a few
explanations are needed here. A little discrimina-
tion is required. The poultry man must be able to
discriminate so as to suit his system of poultry keep-
ing to his conditions. What suits one man in one
location won’t suit one man in another, and the only
thing that will save the poultry man is his own head.
He must be able to decide for himself, after all,
what is the best for him in his particular locality.

“When I say that here for from five to six years
fowls have been kept successfully in large numbers
on a small piece of ground, I know a great many

INTENSIVE POULTRY FARMING 129

will be inclined to question the statement, Others,
with less reason, will go and do likewise. Now the
only thing that has saved this ranch from collapse
has been the soil. The soil is very light and some-
what gravelly and the rains do about as good a
job on it as a vacuum cleaner does on a carpet.
This with the bright sunshine has enabled the owners
to do something that could be done in probably
few places in the country.”

CHAPTER XXV

PROPER VENTILATION

THE most important feature in a poultry house is
proper ventilation. An efficient system of ventila-
tion affords an abundance of fresh air without
drafts. Fresh air keeps the house pure and dry.
Nothing will cause disease more readily than a damp
house or one which has a foul odor. ,

There are several ways to supply ventilation, but
the simplest and least expensive is to have an open
or muslin covered front. These open fronts on
the houses should be protected in some way to pre-
vent the rains and snows from being blown into the
interior. It is a good plan to attach an awning
made of wood or some other light material, arranged
in such a manner that it can be lowered or raised.

Muslin will keep out the snow and rain to a
certain extent, but when it gets wet the cloth loses
some of its merit as a ventilator, as damp muslin
will not permit a free passage of air. By protect-
ing the muslin with an awning it will not be affected
in that way. The muslin should be put on a frame
so that it can be removed on a pleasant day, allow-
ing fresh air to circulate through the house on such
days.

If the ceiling or walls of the henhouse are damp it

130

PROPER VENTILATION 131

is not properly ventilated. Any odor is sufficient
evidence that the house is not properly aired.

Drafts are just as injurious to the health of the
flock as improper ventilation is and must be care-
fully guarded against. Drafts can be avoided by
having all openings on the end of the house, pre-
ferably the south end. Have the north and west
ends or sides built as tightly as possible and well
protected from the winds.

A glass front house causes extremes in tempera-
ture, warming up in the day time and then turning
cold with the setting of the sun. This is also apt
to cause disease and make the fowls’ combs and
wattles more sensitive to frosts. The open muslin
front is by far the best and at the same time the
least expensive. Some glass may be used, but not
exclusively.

Poultry to be healthy must have plenty of fresh
air. They must breathe this fresh air all the time,
at night as well as during the day. The carbon
dioxide gases are expelled by the fowls in the pro-
cess of breathing, and these should not again be
inhaled, but pure fresh oxygen should go into their
lungs, if we expect our poultry to be healthy and
vigorous. Many of the flocks which have a ten-
dency to be delicate, are kept in houses not supplied
with the proper amount of fresh air.

In supplying the hens with this necessary fresh
air there is no necessity to expose them to draughts.

132 PROPER VENTILATION

The old method of building poultry houses was to
make them as air-tight as possible, and then to
obtain what was then called ventilation, various
forms of ventilators, some from the floor and
others from the top, were constructed, believing as
we did in those days that such contrivances would
do the work properly. These. houses were also
heated, thus making the fowls as delicate as hot-
house plants. The up-to-date poultry man now has
discarded these old ideas, and no matter whether he
keeps poultry in Maine or Louisiana he uses the
open front poultry houses, and finds that his poultry
keeps much healthier, and does better than when the
air-tight houses were used.

Fresh air poultry keeping has developed within
the last few years and it has experienced every
weather condition in all parts of this country, and in
no case has it proven anything but a big success.
It has diminished disease amongst poultry, and has
made the flocks more vigorous, thus helping to
make them more productive. Its introduction has
solved a perplexing question for the poultry raiser,
it is a boon to the industry and a great benefit to
our feathered tribe that is just beginning to be felt.

An open front house can be cheaply constructed
and still answer the purpose for which it is intended,
It is not how much you put into a house, but how
you build it, construction is ail, and means much
for the health of your flock. Ornamentations add

PROPER VENTILATION 123

to the appearance, but plans made according to
hygienic principles make for the comforts of the
inmates, and after all, that should be the first thought
in poultry house construction.

In climates where the weather does not get too
severe houses of this construction need no other
arrangements for the comforts of the birds, but in
localities where the thermometer gets down near or
below the zero mark, curtain front perches should
also be provided. These drop curtains in front of
the perches will provide ample protection to the
fowls in the coldest of weather, and not prevent
them from being supplied with fresh air during the
roosting hours. ‘These curtains may be made of
burlap or muslin, hung from the top, covering the
entire roosting space from the top down. If the
roosts are shorter than the building, side curtains
must also be provided for the ends of the perches.
Either have these curtains put on frames or hung
loose with a weight on the bottom to keep them
in position. In other words this roosting place
should be a box-like room, without any openings
whatever on the ends and back.

I would advise that these roost curtains be cleaned
and disinfected at certain intervals so that they will
always be in a sanitary condition. A good idea is
to change them each fall, the material is cheap.

Houses constructed on this principle are free from
dampness, prevent roup, are perfectly ventilated and

134 PROPER VENTILATION

free from bad odors both day and night. Every
beginner should by all means construct or purchase
open front poultry houses, if he or she wants a
vigorous and healthy flock of fowls. It is the last
word in poultry construction, and is used at all the
state, government, and other experiment stations,
also by the progressive fancy and market poultry
beeders of today.

In a cold climate it is advisable to keep the
fowls hardened to the cold. Turn the hens out
in the runs on sunny days even if the weather
is a bit cold. When the air is still and there is no
snow on the ground even the large combed varieties,
such as Leghorns and Minorcas may be safely
turned out in the pens. Hens can stands lots of
severe weather if they are not brought up like hot
house plants. They are well protected with feathers,
and if provided with the proper feed and exercise
will keep very comfortable in the coldest of weather.
In fact hens do better when out in the air away from
their roosting quarters.

If fowls are started out right in the fall, they will
go through the severest of winter weather without
much trouble. Do not house your stock closely in
the fall and expect it to do well when the cold
winter days are here. Get them accustomed with
the weather conditions and they harden with the
seasons.

Many a good show bird has gone to pieces by

PROPER VENTILATION 135

being housed too closely. Amateurs, as a rme, when
they buy a fine specimen at a good price, are so
afraid something will happen to their valuable pur-
chase that they are afraid to expose the bird to even
the least fresh air, and as a consequence the once
valuable show specimen deteriorates. Plenty of
fresh air will not hurt animal life, in fact, it is
absolutely necessary, and what is true of other ani-
mals is also true of poultry—fresh air, and plenty
of it, is the rule.

CHAPTER XXVI

WHY HENS DON’T LAY

“Wauy don’t my hens lay?” This by itself is a hard
question to answer, in fact, it is unanswerable unless
the seeker of information goes into details as to the
general care, housing, and condition of the flock.
Even when all these details are given the desired
advice is not easily supplied. |

For instance, one beginner writes as follows:

““My hens are yearlings of the White Leghorn
variety. They are fed on the best scratching food
obtainable, deep litter feeding, with a well balanced
mash at noon. A hopper placed before them con-
tains a supply of grit, oyster shells, charcoal, and
dry beef scraps. Every day they get green food, and
plenty of fresh water, also raw meat twice a week.
And still no eggs.”

This is only one of the many. Surely he is not
far wrong on his feeding, provided, of course, he
does not overfeed. Presuming that he does give
them about the right amount, what is the trouble
with his flock? It might be the housing or perhaps
the condition of the house.

There are other things besides wrong feeding and
old age which will produce a non-laying flock. There
are things which are just as important to the hen’s

136

WHY HENS DON’T LAY i a

welfare as the different foods and the water. Just
as important, and more so, than the variety of fowls
kept, and just as important as the grits, charcoal,
etc. Notwithstanding the fact that the hens are
getting the foods necessary to make eggs and
plenty of exercise in deep litter to prevent laziness,
it may still be possible for the hens to be in
such a condition that the production of eggs is
impossible.

The question then is what has put the hens in
such a condition.

Poorly constructed or damp houses may be the
cause for such nonlaying condition of the hens,
improper ventilation or overcrowding of the laying
houses, or perhaps unclean, insanitary surroundings.
At certain seasons of the year vermin may also
cause such a condition of the laying stock, or in
the fall and early winter months molting of feathers
will cause the hens te stop laying.

The changing of the birds from one quarter to
the other will stop the hens laying for a short time.
Beginners buying a flock of hens or pullets and moy-
ing them into their new home should not expect
them to do their duty until they are accustomed to
their surroundings, which ofttimes takes about
three weeks.

In the majority of cases it is not the hens’ fault
for not laying, it is the keeper’s.

CHAPTER XXVIT

BREAKING UP A BROODY HEN

Broopy HENS about the premises when not needed
are a source of loss and their brooding should be
broken up as soon as possible. Some claim that
hens show signs of broodiness when they need a
rest, but this is not always the case. If this were
true some hens would need a rest most of the spring
and summer.

There are hens which lay only a few eggs and
then become broody. This certainly is not caused by
natural conditions. Some breeds are naturally more
broody than others, and then again we have hens
which get the setting fever from being too fat.

There are various methods for breaking up a
broody hen, some of which are exceedingly cruel.
One of these cruel methods is to dip the hen in
cold water. A hen when she is in a broody con-
dition naturally has a high temperature, and to
treat her to a cold water cure at that time produces
a severe shock to the system which may terminate
disastrously. There are more humane methods
which serve the purpose just as well. Another
method which should be condemned is putting the
hen in a tight box for several days without food or
water. When the hen is released from this solitary

138

BREAKING UP A BROODY HEN 139

confinement she is in most cases more dead than
alive, and of course such treatment will affect her
vitality.

Here is a simple and civilized method for break-
ing up a broody hen: When a hen becomes broody
let her sit for a few days in order to give her system
time to recuperate and at the same time making it
easier to get her out of the habit when she is once
taken in hand for treatment. After she has had
her few days’ stay on the nest put her in an airy
and roomy coop, the bottom of which is made of
strips, with plenty of air space so as to permit ample
circulation. Suspend this coop in the air, thus per-
mitting plenty of air from the bottom. Feed lightly,
but supply with fresh water. The hen knows
only too well that she must have warmth from below
in order to hatch anything, and she will soon realize
that her case is hopeless and give it up as a bad job.

CHAPTER XX Vit

A GENERAL OVERHAULING

AT the end of the breeding season, and imme-
diately after the breeding pens have been broken up
a general house cleaning should take place. Even
though the houses have had their weekly cleanup, a
complete renovation is advisable. Everything should
be thoroughly overhauled. It may seem a big task
but when completed the general appearance and
freshness about the place will repay you for all the
labor.

Much labor can be saved by forethought in the
construction of buildings and fixtures. The interior
fixtures of an up to date poultry house should be
removable, easily taken out, and easily put into
place again. The roosts, nest boxes, dropping
boards, etc., should be so constructed that they cau
be taken out of the house, where they can be care-
fully overhauled, disinfected, and whitewashed.
All the nesting material should be burned and clean,
fresh straw put into each nesting box. Sweep off
the walls and ceilings of the houses and put on a
new coat of good whitewash. Before putting on the
whitewash it is advisable to disinfect the house. A
spray pump. will do this work thoroughly and make

140

A GENERAL OVERHAULING I4I

it possible to reach every crack and crevice about
the place.

If the floors are of dirt, take four or five inches off
the top and put in new soil. Should this not be
done there will in time come a foul odor from such
neglected floors which will endanger the health of
your ‘flock. Always have the dirt floors several
inches higher than the ground surrounding the
building, thus preventing the rains from coming in.
One of the main things in a poultry house should
be dryness. Dampness will raise havoc with the
most vigorous stock, and more diseases are attributed
to it than any other cause.

Boil all the drinking vessels and thoroughly clean
all feeding hoppers, grit boxes, etc. Do not keep
any leaky drinking founts, no matter how little they
leak. They are a cause of dampness. Never use
any vessels that cannot be cleaned.

During the house cleaning one should also make
a careful inspection of the roofs to see that none
of these are weather worn. A good tight roof means
much to the comfort of the inmates.

If there is any glass in the house, give it a good
washing; tighten up all loose panes; and a coat of
good paint on the sash will help to preserve it.
Many window sashes go to pieces for want of paint.
A few pennies spent at the right time for paint
may save you dollars in the end.

All wooden floors and dropping boards should be

142 A GENERAL OVERHAULING

scrubbed with a strong disinfectant solution. A
coating of lice paint on the roosts is also advisable.

After the houses have been thoroughly cleaned and
disinfected, put some clean, fresh litter on the floors.
Then let the hens back into their homes, sprinkle
some scratch feed into the litter, and watch the flock
enjoy their clean quarters. They will soon show
their appreciation of bright surroundings by increas-
ing the egg yield.

The next to tackle are the pens or runs, and the
smaller they are the more thoroughly they should be
cleaned, raked, and scraped. A good spading will
make them fresh and sanitary. Also inspect the
fencing, which perhaps needs repairing.

All the brooders and brood coops not in use should
be gathered up and put under shelter. A little fore-
thought in that direction will save much wear and
tear on these appliances. Before storing these
away, give them a good cleaning and disinfecting,
so that they will be in a sanitary condition when
they are brought out again for another season’s
usage.

A poultry raiser who has the proper interest in
his business takes delight in having everything about
the plant clean and sanitary. Those are the ones
who will, nine times out of ten, make a success of
the business. No one need expect good results
when the comfort of the fowls is neglected. Neglect
and carelessness are bound to spell failure to any

A GENERAL OVERHAULING | 143

poultry raiser, no matter how carefully he or she
has selected the stock or how much was invested in
the buildings and appliances. One cannot expect to
run a poultry plant, be it ever so small, without do-
ing some work. Proper conditions must exist in
poultry yards to get the proper results. Hens will
not lay if they receive poor treatment—that is a
settled fact,

CHAP TERR x Xb

INFERIOR FOOD

THE health of a flock of fowls is often jeopardized
by the quality and quantity of food. Damaged
foods, such as moldy grains, old musty beef scraps,
decayed vegetable matter, tainted meat, or green
cut bones, and improperly cured alfalfa, are the
common causes of a large percentage of the diseases
affecting poultry.

Too much care cannot be exercised in purchas-
ing the various grain foods, and the saving of a few
cents on the bushel should offer no inducement to the
poultry raiser to buy the cheaper grades. It pays
to buy the best, and even then a careful inspection
should be made to ascertain that the quality is what
it should be and what it has been represented to be.
Very often feed dealers, aware of the fact that the
grains are to be fed to chickens, will not be particular
about sending the best, even though the price was
paid, thinking, no doubt, that anything is good
enough for chickens. The best plan is to visit the
dealer, examine the feed personally, secure a sample,
and upon delivery make sure that the grain received
is up to the standard of the sample.

Grain which has been water soaked and then per-
mitted to dry is unfit for poultry food; and in most

144

INFERIOR FOOD 145

cases it can easily be detected by the musty odor.
Such grains are often sold by feed dealers as poultry
feed, some of which is nothing more or less than
the salvage of some elevator fire. Grain thus
damaged cannot be sold for milling purposes, and
is therefore palmed off on the poor, helpless hen,
which is supposed not to have much of a taste, and
is able to subsist and do very well on almost any
toe, That, at least, is the theory of many of
the grain dealers, and in many cases the everyday
man who has not had any experience in poultry
raising.

Poultry, both fowls and chicks, must have a
variety of wholesome, palatable and nourishing
food, and unless the food given contains these quali-
fications, the birds will not do well—the hens will not
lay, the chicks will not grow and the hospital is very
apt to become crowded.

During the summer months be careful about feed-
ing sprouted oats, for oats sprouted in boxes during
hot weather are very apt to be moldy, in which con-
dition it is dangerous, causing indigestion, sour crop,
diarrhcea, or other bowel troubles.

Special attention should be given to the animal
matter fed to the fowls. Ground meat or green
cut bone should not be permitted to stand around
in warm weather, both of these should be ground
and fed fresh each day. If this cannot be done, I
would advise feeding the dry beef scraps sold by

146 INFERIOR FOOD

poultry dealers, but even these must be of a high ©
grade and properly prepared. Always place the beet
scrap hoppers in a shady place, as the scraps are
very liable to be affected by exposure to the hot
summer sun. |

Do not feed the stock too heavy; overfeeding
causes the majority of cases of indigestion, bowel
trouble, diseases of the liver, and other ailments of
the intestines and crop. Poultry to be fattened for
the market can be fed heavily, but don’t stuff the
layers or the growing chicks. There is no positive
rule on how much to feed each hen, or each chick
at its various size and age, and this knowledge can
only be gained by experience. Some birds require
more feed than others, and the only safe rule is to
feed them all that they will eat up clean at each
feeding. If fed too much the fowls will pick out
certain grains which they like the best and leave
the others, and in that way possibly be without the
very grains which are the best for them, and which
help to make a well balanced ration, mixed to pro-
duce certain results. Overfed hens will become
inactive and unprofitable.

CHAPTER XXX

SUPPLYING GREEN FOODS

A PROBLEM that confronts, or should confront,
every poultry raiser is how to supply the flock with
green food all the year around. The amateur will
ask: “How am I going to supply my birds with
green food in the dead of winter?’’ The answer is
that there is not a raiser of poultry, no matter where
located, who cannot produce green food during every
season in the year.

In summer green food can be supplied with
scarcely any exertion. If there is room enough to
raise poultry there is also room enough to raise
greens. The succulent juices of green foods promote
digestion, and good digestion means healthy fowls,
while healthy fowls mean productive and profitable
fowls. Hens must have these succulent juices in
sufficient quantities in order to produce a creditable
number of eggs. Green food is as much a neces-
sity to fowls as oil is to machinery. You can damage
your flock of poultry as much by the omission of
green food as you can damage machinery by not
supplying the proper amount of oil.

During the spring, lawn clippings, especially those
that contain clover, are very good, and are easily

147

148 SUPPLYING GREEN FOODS

obtained. The backyarder may also plant a small
bed of lettuce and replant as the season advances.

In summer oats may be planted in place of the
lettuce. Oats grow very rapidly and the green
blades are excellent food. Rye is advisable for fall,
as it will keep green all winter. Rape sown not
quite so thick as oats or rye is very hardy, grows
rapidly, gives an abundance of succulent juices, and
is relished by the fowls. Summer is a good time to
plant this seed and it will supply green food for the
flock until late in the fall.

Apples and tomatoes, those not fit for the market,
are also excellent feed; in fact, any fruit is relished
by the fowls. Onions and onion tops stimulate the
action of the liver and are healthy foods, but if fed
to excess have a tendency to affect the flavor of the
meat as well as the flavor of the eggs. Growing
chicks may be fed onions in any quantity and it will
do them considerable good.

Cabbage is an old standby as a winter poultry
green food. It is easily grown and can be put away
for winter use. The large, solid heads may be used
for the table and the culls kept for the fowls.
Always keep the cabbage patch well cultivated and
free from weeds. Store the cabbage in a cellar or
put it into a hole, covering the top with boards, then
cover the tops of the boards with earth, leaving an
opening at one end from which to extract the heads
as needed. As soon as the ground freezes the cab-

SUPPLYING GREEN FOODS 149

bage will also freeze and remain frozen all winter,
thus supplying an excellent green food all winter.
The best method for feeding cabbage is to hang it
on a nail just within easy reach of the fowls.
Always thaw it before feeding.

There are several root vegetables which make
good green food for winter use, chief among which
are mangels. They will thrive in any climate and
require little ground. They should be sown early
in the season. Harvest them before frost and store
in) the cellar.

Turnips and rutabagas are also popular winter
poultry foods. They should be sown the early part
of August and if put on clean ground require very
little attention. Raw potatoes are also quite exten-
sively used and are preferable to cooked potatoes,
which have a tendency to fatten the laying hens.
This is especially true of the heavier breeds. Some
feed whole potatoes, while others chop them up fine
and put them into the mashes. Small cull potatoes,
not good for table use, may be purchased very
reasonably in the fall.

Alfalfa and green cut clover, when properly cured,
are very good as winter green foods. These may be
purchased at poultry supply stores in almost any
quantity. In alfalfa there are three grades—moeal,
shredded, and short cut.

The meal and shredded are used in the mashes;

150 SUPPLYING GREEN FOODS —

many of the commercial ground and mixed mashes
contain a proper percentage of these.

Cut and well cured clover is also used as a winter
green food, but not as extensively as formerly.
Alfalfa is better.

Sprouted oats is also used as a fall and winter
green food diet. Some breeders who feed nothing
else have excellent success.

With the many excellent green foods mentioned
there should be no difficulty in selecting some which
you can raise or buy and thus give your fowls some~-
thing which nature requires they should have.

CHAPTER XXXI

GENERAL FEEDING

It 1s a well known fact that up to the last few years
most farmers fed their flocks on an exclusive corn
diet, but since many of the farmers have added
wheat and oats to the daily ration there has been
noted a substantial improvement in the egg yield of
farm flocks. This fact is borne out by government
reports on the subject.

Fowls properly housed should be fed in the ratio

of one part protein or muscle producing compound
to four parts of carbohydrates or heat and fat pro-
ducing compounds.
_ A mixed ration is preferable, but where one single
grain is to be fed oats without a doubt comes
nearest being the ideal food. Wheat is much prefer-
able to corn. In feeding oats it is best to feed that
from which the hull has been removed. A little
buckwheat is all right, but if fed too heavily it will
produce a light colored yolk in the eggs.

Fowls do much better on a mixed ration, and
although this mixed ration may contain the same
nutritive ratio, nevertheless the results obtained are
better. They seem to relish their meals more when
a variety of grains is fed, and a larger percentage
of the whole ration is digested.

151

152 GENERAL FEEDING

Regularity in feeding is of great importance in
order to get the proper results from the flock. Feed
the hens their various meals at certain times, and do
not let the time vary very much from one day to the
other. The old saying, “There is a time for every-
thing,” should be strictly heeded in the poultry busi-
ness. It is just as important when you feed as it is
how you feed and what you feed.

It is also essential to feed the breeders correctly
during the hatching season to obtain fertile, hatch-
able eggs with strong germs. They should be fed
foods which will strengthen their constitutions but
not too fattening. Hard grains, dry mashes, plenty
of green food, and animal matter, together with
grit, oyster shells, and charcoal, produce the best
results.

Powdered charcoal should not be fed in the mash,
it is not a feed, but a medicine. It purifies the blood
and absorbs noxious gases generated in digestion.
By feeding it in the mash the fowls eat more of it
than what they require. Use the coarser grades of
charcoal and feed it from a hopper or other feed-
ing utensil, thus permitting the fowls to partake of
it when necessary.

In feeding dry beef scraps use only the very
best quality obtainable. Some of the so-called scraps
sold are nothing more than fertilizers, and are
entirely unfit for poultry food. A good article can

GENERAL FEEDING 153

be detected by scalding, it should have the odor of
cooked meat.

Milk in almost any form is an excellent food. It
may be given as a drink or used in the mash in place
of water. Skim milk and buttermilk are in most
common use.

Stale bread may be used with perfect freedom, it
containing nearly the nutrient ratio of wheat. It
may be used in the mash or otherwise.

The laying hens should have a supply of crushed
or ground oyster shells before them at all times.
They furnish the material for egg shells.

CHAPTER) XXxIE

MARKETING AND GRADING EGGS

PROPER marketing and grading of eggs is a subject
which does not receive the careful attention its
importance deserves. It is neglected mostly by the
smaller egg producer, who perhaps is not posted on
market conditions, or knows very little about the
losses which are bound to result from lack of
attention to grading.

The bureau of animal industry, United States
department of agriculture, has issued a very interest-
ing bulletin on the grading of eggs for market pur-
poses, from which I quote the various grades as
follows:

“Fresh Eggs—An egg to be accepted as a first
class, or fresh egg, must be newly laid, clean, of
normal size, showing a very small air cell, and must
have a strong, smooth shell, of even color, and free
from cracks. With the exception of the air cell,
which is only visible through the aid of the candle,
these are the points by which eggs are graded in the
early spring, at which time they are quite uniform in
quality, thereby making candling unnecessary.

“Checks—This term applies to eggs which are
cracked but not leaking. ;

“‘Leakers—As indicated by the name, this term

154

MARKETING AND GRADING EGGS 155

applies to eggs which have lost a part of their
contents. )

“Seconds—The term ‘seconds’ applies to eggs
which have deteriorated to a sufficient extent as to
be rejected as firsts. They are, however, of a high
enough quality to be used for human consumption.
The several classes of eggs which go to make up this
grade may be defined as follows:

“(a) Heated egg: One in which the embryo has
proceeded to a point corresponding to about 18 to
24 hours’ normal incubation. In the infertile egg
this condition can be recognized by the increased
color of the yolk; when held before the candle it will
appear heavy and slightly darker than the fertile egg.

“(b) Shrunken egg: This class of seconds can
be easily distinguished by the size of the air cell.
It may occupy from one-fifth to one-third of the
space inside the shell. The holding of the eggs for
a sufficient length of time to allow a portion of the
contents to evaporate is the main cause of this
condition.

“(c) Smallegg: Any egg that will detract from
the appearance of normal eggs on account of its small
size will come under this class, although it may
be a new laid egg. iM

“(d) Dirty egg: Fresh eggs which have been
soiled with earth, droppings, or egg contents, or
badly stained by coming in contact with wet straw,
hay, etc., are classed as seconds.

156 MARKETING AND GRADING EGGS

““(e) Watery egg: Those in which the inner
membrane of the air cell is ruptured, allowing the
air to escape into the contents of the egg and thereby
giving a watery or frothy appearance.

“ (4) Presence of foreign matter in eggs: Small
blood streaks or clots. This condition is found in
many fresh laid eggs. Often eggs are laid which
show small clots about the size of a pea. These are
sometimes termed ‘liver’ or ‘meat’ spots.

““(g) Badly misshapen eggs: Eggs which are
extremely long or very flat, or in which part of the
shell’s surface is raised in the form of a ring; in
other instances a number of hard, wartlike growths
appear on the outside of the shell.

“Spots: Eggs in which bacteria or mold growth
has developed locally and caused the formation of
a lumpy adhesion on the inside of the shell. There
are three well recognized classes of mold spots—
namely: white, brown, and black. In cases where
an infertile egg has been subjected to natural heat
for a sufficient period of time, the yolk will often
settle and become fixed to the membrane. This con-
dition might be termed a ‘plainspot.’

“Blood rings: Eggs in which the embryo has
developed to a sufficient extent so that it is quickly
recognized when held before the candle. It has been
found that it requires between twenty-four and
thirty-six hours of incubation under a sitting hen
to produce this condition.

MARKETING AND GRADING EGGS 157

“Rots: Eggs which are absolutely unfit for food.
The different classes of rots may be defined as
follows:

“(a) Black rot: This is the easiest class of rots
to recognize and, consequently the best known.
When the egg is held before the candle the contents
have a blackish appearance, and in most cases the
air cell is very prominent. The formation of hydro-
gen-sulphide gas in the egg causes the contents to
blacken and gives rise to the characteristic rotten
egg smell, and sometimes causes the egg to explode.

“(b) White rot: These eggs have a character-
istic sour smell. The contents become watery, the
yolk and white mixed, and the whole egg offensive
to both the sight and the smell. It is also known
as the ‘mixed rot.’

““(c) Spot rot: In this the foreign growth has
not contaminated the entire egg, but has remained
near the point of entrance. Such eggs are readily
picked out with the candle, and when broken show
lumpy particles adhering to the inside of the shell.
These lumps are of various colors and appearances.
It is probable that spot rots are caused as much by
mold as bacteria, but for practical purposes the dis-
tinction is unnecessary. |

“To all intents and purposes the spot rot, as
explained above, is practically the same as the
brown and black spots described under the general
head of ‘spots.’ The spot rot is also placed under

\
>
\

158 MARKETING AND GRADING EGGS

the general head of rots simply because some candlers.
will call it a spot, while others designate it as a
spot rot. Pink and blood rots are names which are
also applied to certain classes of rotten eggs, the pink
rot deriving its name from the peculiar pinkish
color of the contents when held before the candle.
The same is true of the blood rot, which is bloody or
red in appearance.”

If those producing eggs for market purposes will
carefully study the foregoing and then grade their
eggs before sending them to the market, better
prices will be obtained and a reputation will be made
which is bound to result beneficially to the producer.

CHAPTER XXMXTHI

FATTENING—KILLING—MARKETING

THERE is still much education necessary along the
line of poultry products. The majority of people
think all market poultry is alike and, aside from the
age of the fowl, there is no difference in the eating
quality of such products placed on the market.
This is due to the fact that they have never had an
opportunity to judge the difference between a chicken
raised on farm range and one which has been
brought up in reasonably close confinement and pos-
sibly fattened before being shipped to the market.

The people in New England and the eastern states
are better posted along these lines, because the poul-
try raisers there have educated the public on the
subject. Western poultry raisers wonder why these
easterners get better prices than they do for their
market poultry and eggs. The answer is, they
furnish the quality, which entitles them to top-notch
prices. In other words, quality fixes the prevailing
prices. .

Poultry raised on unlimited range becomes muscu-
lar. The greater the range the dryer and tougher the
flesh, whereas the same kind of poultry raised in
confinement and forced with easily digested food
will have tender, fine grained flesh and good flavor.

159

160 FATTENING—KILLING—MARKETING

When a person once tastes these two kinds of poul-
try meat the difference will be so pronounced that
he will gladly pay the difference in price and will
demand that poultry raised for his table must be
raised on so-called scientific principles.

In catering to a high class of trade for both
poultry and eggs, a very important item is the man-
ner of preparation for shipping to market. Appear-
ance counts for a great deal and goes a long way
towards satisfying a particular customer.

One of the most important items in the marketing
of dressed poultry is the killing and preparation of
the fowl. Fowls that are not properly killed and
dressed for the city market will not command the
best prices. Careful attention should be paid to
every detail.

Always take the birds off the roosts at night.
This will prevent the trouble of chasing them about
the place. Put them into a comfortable coop or
cage where they should be kept for about thirty-
six hours before killing. Give them feed in the
morning, one good meal, and then do not feed any-
thing until killed, but see that they get plenty of
fresh water.

Hang the fowls by the feet at a convenient height,
then lock the wings together to prevent flapping.
Take the tips of the wings in the right hand and
strike a hard blow on the head with a stick or
cudgel. The fowl should then be grasped by the

FATTENING—KILLING—MARKETING 161

comb or feathers on back of head. This should be
done with left hand, while with the right hand you
insert the blade of a sharp knife in the neck back
of the ear lobe, running the blade through the
neck. In withdrawing the blade give it a twist so
as to sever the artery in the throat, which will cause
the blood to flow freely.

When this is done lose no time, but start in to
pluck immediately. Pluck up the breast and up the
side to tail, unlock the wings and strip them also,
remove the feathers from the back, and then finish
the job by plucking. If this work is done quickly
the feathers will come out easily and there is then
no danger of the skin being torn.

If your market demands a drawn fowl, cut a slit
about an inch long back of vent and parallel with
it, insert index finger, and remove intestines. The
egg sac and lower end of the intestines may be
removed by enlarging the slit to a half circle so that
it joins the ends of the vent. Cut off the head, draw
the skin back about half an inch, and cut off that
much of the neck bone, then pull the skin forward
and tie.

If the fowl is to be used for home consumption,
many prefer to remove the feathers by scalding. To
do this properly is to take the fowl by the neck and
legs, dip into hot water twice, one dip with breast
down and one with back down, then hang the fowl
up and pluck. After the feathers have been removed

162 FATTENING—KILLING—MARKETING

_and the fowl drawn, throw the carcass into boiling
hot water for about ten seconds, then put it into ice
cold water for about ten or fifteen minutes.

In shipping to market, pack as neatly and cleanly
as possible, and never pack for shipment until all
the animal heat is gone.

People who have not the time or inclination to
dress and prepare their poultry correctly should sell
them alive. Of course, live poultry does not demand
quite as good a price, but saves the poultryman
much work.

In the fall of the year many poultry raisers have
selected their next year’s breeding stock, and are
ready to sell the surplus for table use. If a little
attention is paid to getting such stock in the best
marketable condition, better prices and more profits
can be made from this surplus.

It does not necessarily require very much addi-
tional expense to fatten poultry for market,
providing, of course, the right method is used to
bring this about. The extra labor also is not worth
mentioning, and will be paid for tenfold in the addi-
tional selling price added to each fowl.

First of all, the birds should be taken off the range,
or out of the exercising pens, about three weeks
before they are to be sent to the market, and put into
small coops or pens, where they are deprived of
exercise. Next build a V shaped feeding trough,
the same as the farmers use for hogs, only smaller.

FATTENING—KILLING—MARKETING 163

Into this place the fattening mash, three or four
times daily.

For the city man it is handier to use one of the
many commercial mashes, to which should be added
skim or butter milk, and to every ten pounds of
meal mash add one-half pound of animal fat, such
as lard, tallow, or suet. Melt the lard and stir into
the batter, This batter should be mixed to the con-
sistency of pancake batter. If the fowls show signs
of getting tired of animal fat diet, the same amount
of sugar may be substituted. Any kind of low grade
sugar will answer the purpose, or even molasses may
take the place of the former. Do not forget to put
a little salt in the batter, and once or twice a week
add a little ground charcoal. Green food of any
kind should be avoided during the fattening pro-
cess. When the first signs of a bird getting off its
feed are noticed, such bird should be taken from
the fattening pen and either sent to market or again
put on the range until it recuperates.

CHAPTER XXXIV

LICE—-MITES—-FLEAS

THERE are three common pests which are liable to
infest the poultryman’s flock at any time—tice, mites,
and fleas. Of the former there are at least a dozen
species to be found on our domestic fowls, which
includes hens, ducks, geese, turkeys, pigeons, guineas,
peafowls, and pheasants.

Poultry keepers who wish to attain any degree of
success with their flocks must combat these pests the
year around. Prevention is the sure way to keep
them from doing any damage at all.

Keep your birds free from lice is advice easily
given, but not so easily carried out. Even fowls
kept under the best conditions may at some time or
another become infested with vermin. They may be
transmitted from the neighbor’s flocks or may be
brought on the premises by sparrows or other birds
of the air. It is therefore of the utmost importance
that the poultry keeper be alert always and examine
some of his birds occasionally so as to detect their
first appearance if possible.

Lice and mites will increase at an alarming pace
and the least neglect in this direction may result in
spreading these pests throughout the flock in such

164

LICE—MITES—FLEAS 165

numbers as to make the work of extermination a
most difficult task. On the other hand, if the
poultryman is on the lookout for these parasites he
will detect them at such time when the application
of lice powder or other lice killers will rid the
fowls of the trouble makers before they have a
chance to get a good foothold.

Lice live, sleep, and eat among the feathers of the
birds; they lay their eggs on the shaft of the feather,
mostly near the vent, and the heat from the fowl’s
body does the incubating of these eggs. The only
chanee a hen has in combating these pests is the
process of a dust bath, either in fine road dust or
ashes. The active fowl can destroy many of the lice,
which breathe through the tubelike openings in their
bodies by dusting, but insects which live on the blood
or gnaw the skin of the fowl seldom are killed unless
given the proper treatment by the poultry raiser.

The “dust box” is without a doubt one of the
most valuable contrivances and no poultry house or
ward should be without one. It is one of the neces-
sities which can be supplied at little or no cost save
the few minutes’ time it takes to keep it clean and
refilled. This box should be kept in a dry place,
preferably in the scratching shed. Setting hens
should also not be neglected in this respect; they
need the dust bath as well as the laying hens and
growing chicks,

The chief preventive against the ravages of these

166 LICE—MITES—FLEAS

pests of the poultry house is cleanliness. A house
kept scrupulously clean is not an inviting place
for them to harbor in; filth is what they thrive on
and filth causes them to multiply rapidly.

Either whitewash the house thoroughly each
spring and fall or line it with tar paper, to be applied
fresh each year. In whitewashing a poultry house
every crack and crevice should be reached with the
fluid, and the nesting boxes should come in for a
liberal coating.

Insects lurk in the cracks and crevices; mites will
house in these during the daytime and come out
during the evening attacking the fowls on their
roosts at night. A strong solution of one of the
tar product disinfectants applied freely with a spray
pump throughout the house and nesting boxes will
assist greatly in the work of prevention. There are
also some good lice paints upon the market which
may be used effectively on the roosts, nesting boxes,
and around the dropping boards.

A liberal use of some reliable lice powder evil, if
properly applied, rid a flock of these pests. One
application will not do it, it must be repeated a few
times at least to have the desired effect. The first
application may kill all lice on the fowls, but the
eggs, which are not harmed by the lice powder,
will hatch and a new crop of lice will make their
appearance.

Thus it will be seen that it is absolutely necessary

LICE—MITES—FLEAS 167

to repeat operations in this direction several times
before any one can be certain the lice have been
completely exterminated.

The work must also be done thoroughly, the
powder must be well dusted into the feathers and
every part of the bird’s body must be reached. Do
not hesitate about using lots of lice powder in the
nesting boxes; sprinkle it on the nesting material, it
will not affect the hen eggs in the least.

So-called “lice killing nest eggs’’ or moth balls
are apt to transmit their disagreeable odor to the
eggs, which may be tasted when they are prepared
for the breakfast table. Tobacco stems placed in the
bottom of the nesting boxes and covered with clean
straw have been found good, and are to be had at
a reasonable price from any cigar factory.

Never put a newly purchased fowl in your hen
house to mingle with your flock until you have
examined it carefully, and as an extra precaution
dust it well with lice powder. By placing a fine wire
mesh on your windows you lessen the danger of
Sparrows carrying these insects into the hen house.

There is more danger of lice during warm weather
than at any other time, hence in summer use every
precaution to keep these pests from invading your
flock.

The so called “Red Mite,” although one of the
smallest insect which infests poultry, is, without a
doubt, the most troublesome. Notwithstanding the

168 LICE—MITES—FLEAS

fact that this parasite is called the red mite, it is
only red when it is filled with blood—at other times
it is gray with black spots.

_ These mites at times become very serious as they
multiply with wonderful rapidity, and especially
is this true during the summer months. When a
poultry house once becomes infested with these pests
it demands vigorous action—half-way measures will
not do, it means a fight, and a hard one.

The red mite works at night; it crawls forth
from its hiding place and attacks the fowls while
they are at roost. Hundreds of these may prey
upon a single hen, fill themselves with blood, and
then crawl back to their hiding places contented
until the next night. During the day these parasites
lie dormant in the cracks and crevices about the
hen house, hence they are not so easily detected by
the novice.

I have known cases where setting hens died while
sitting upon the nest, traceable to no other cause
than red mites, which have been assisted in their
propagation by filth, which has been allowed to
accumulate in the nesting boxes and the floor of the
hen houses. Dark, dirty and damp houses are
especially adapted for the breeding of these insects
and offer favorable conditions for their rapid
multiplication.

By paying a visit to the hen house at night, and
being equipped with a good light, these pests may

LICE—MITES—FLEAS 169

be detected. If any are found, get busy, clean out
every part of the house, overhaul the nesting boxes,
burn up the nesting material, take down the roosts
and paint them with lice paint, or wash them off with
a strong solution of disinfectant. Those having no
lice paint or disinfectant at hand may prepare a
good substitute as follows: One pint of crude
carbolic acid added to one gallon of kerosene. Do
not be afraid to apply freely with a brush or spray
pump; get either of these solutions into every crack
and crevice, and soak the wood thoroughly. White-
wash the walls and ceiling with a mixture of one
pint of crude carbolic acid to every five gallons of
the whitewash, and apply freely and thoroughly,
reaching every part of the interior. If your house
has a wood floor disinfect it thoroughly, or scatter
some air-slacked lime over it and sweep it well into
the cracks. Care should be taken to have the lime
well air-slacked, otherwise the fowls may pick up
the larger particles of lime, a dangerous article for
them to get into their crops.

Another simple remedy to rid the hen house of
mites, and one which is quite frequently used, is
fumigation with a sulphur candle, or powdered
sulphur mixed with shavings, placed into an iron
vessel, and then ignited. Be sure to lock every fowl
out of the house, and close the building, doors, win-
dows, ventilators and everything, light the candle or
powdered sulphur and make a quick retreat. The

170 LICE—MITES—FLEAS

fumes are deadly to all mites, the common hen lice
and any other kind, of vermin about the premises.
After the sulphur is burnt out, ventilate thoroughly
before permitting the birds to re-enter.

There are other remedies used for ridding a hen
house of mites, but I believe the two foregoing are
the simplest and least expensive; either one, if
properly done, will do the work effectively. Can-
didly, I believe there is no reasonable excuse for
any modern poultry keeper to be troubled with mites.
Keep the houses clean, well sprayed with disinfec-
tants, or whitewash, paint the roosts every week
with lice paint or the kerosene-carbolic mixture men-
tioned above, change the nesting material often, and
dust it well with insect powder. Always keep in
mind that a house kept in sanitary condition is no
inviting place for mites or any other parasites,

CHAPTER XXXV

CAUSES OF DISEASE

DisEASE has caused more discouragement in the
poultry business than any one thing. Much of the
pleasure of raising good poultry is lost when the
breeder sees one bird after another fall a victim to
disease. Disease has dealt the death knell to many
ambitions and has been the cause of the retirement
of many poultry raisers with otherwise bright futures
before them.

Disease does not come without a cause and in
nine cases out of ten this cause is neglect or care-
lessness. True, we sometimes find a sick bird in
the best regulated flocks, where everything is done to
keep the poultry in the best possible condition and
where the buildings are constructed on the most up
to date, scientific plans. But these cases are excep-
tional and the disease, in these cases, never gets
much headway.

The trouble with most inexperienced poultry
raisers is their inability to detect disease in its earliest
stage, and when they do detect it the malady has a
good hold upon the specimen affected; or perhaps it
is of a contagious nature, which means the infection
of the pen mates. If amateurs would study their
birds more closely and carefully watch their daily

171

172 CAUSES OF DISEASE

actions there would be less trouble along these lines.

There are many things which bring about diseases.
Among them are poor ventilation, direct drafts, over-
crowding, irregular feeding, dirty houses, con-
taminated runs, filthy drinking water, damp quarters,
and lack of exercise. Any one of these may cause
the poultryman lots of trouble, and any one of them
can be avoided if the proper interest is displayed in
the raising of chickens. Some of these causes for
disease must be considered when the first start is
made. ‘Take, for instance, the construction of the
hen houses. In laying out the poultry plant hygienic
construction should be carefully considered in all of
the plans. Interior fixtures such as nesting boxes,
roosts, etc., should be removable so that the houses
can be thoroughly cleaned and disinfected. The
drinking fountains and feed hoppers should be of
such a pattern as will permit handy cleaning by the
operator. To be brief, much of the prevention
of disease lies in the kind of houses and fixtures
that are used.

A sick hen will not lay, even though her ailment is
not severe. Nor will she lay immediately after
recovering, and hens that have had a severe case of
canker or roup are not fit for the breeding pen. They
should be killed and burned. In mild cases of the
latter disease it is advisable to doctor them, but
unless the case is mild they are not worth the
trouble.

CAUSES OF DISEASE 173

With the coming of the fall there will be many
cases of cold, which if not taken in hand promptly
will go into roup. I would suggest that poultry
raisers have a solution of permanganate of potash
on hand for such emergencies. This solution is
made by dissolving one ounce of permanganate of
potash in three pints of water. When a bird shows
signs of having a cold, dip the bird’s head into this
solution. Repeat this operation every day until the
bird is cured.

CHAPTER XXXVI

BOWEL TROUBLE IN CHICKS

THE most common disease among chicks is bowel
trouble. Thousands of small chicks succumb yearly
from one form of this disease called “white
diarrheea.”’ Its appearance in a flock will cause
alarm to the experienced poultry raiser for he
knows how rapidly it will spread, and the havoc it is
liable to bring about.

Some poultrymen claim that this disease is more
prevalent among incubator hatched and brooder
raised chicks. Close investigation has proven the
fallacy of such an assertion. Hen hatched and reared
chicks are just as liable to this disease. Of course
an improperly heated and ventilated brooder has
much to do in bringing on this disease, which
accounts, no doubt, for some poultrymen making
this claim.

Certain weather conditions make the chicks more
susceptible to bowel trouble, damp, gloomy days,
or exceptionally hot days in summer are more
favorable for its appearance. Improper protection —
from dampness, insufficient heat, or exposure to
hot sun rays without the proper amount of shade

174

BOWEL TROUBLE IN CHICKS 175

during very hot days bring about conditions which
tend toward breeding this disease, and assist
materially in spreading it more rapidly. |

Bowel trouble in most cases is nothing more or
less than acute intestinal indigestion caused by the
inability of the intestinal organ to properly digest
the foods, and the thus indigested food acting as an
irritant results in diarrhcea.

Impure drinking water is one of the causes of this
disease. Chicks must have clean, pure water; it
is just as important to them as it is to human
beings. Drinking fountains which cannot be easily
cleaned and scoured should never be used at any
time. Vessels into which chicks can step should
also be avoided. During warm weather fresh water
should be supplied several times during the day,
and such water should be protected from exposure
_ to the sun, and the scratchings of the litter.

Chilling is one of the common causes for bowel
trouble. During cold weather chicks require more
heat than in warmer weather. When the outside
temperature is below the 50 degree mark there is
little danger of overheating the brooder chicks, and
the flock will not be much affected at a tempera-
ture even as high as 112 to 115 degrees, which is
g and 12 degrees higher than that of an incubator
during its operation. But on the other hand, if
the outside temperature is above the 70 mark, long
exposure to a temperature of over 100 degrees is

176 BOWEL TROUBLE IN CHICKS

very apt to effect the flock quite seriously, and also
cause bowel trouble. Chicks must be kept comfort-
ably warm, and in order to carry this out
successfully the hover heat must be regulated in
keeping with the outdoor weather conditions.

Next to chilling, indiscretions in feeding or care-
less feeding are the most prolific causes of this
disease among the baby chicks. Chicks must have
a variety of foods, and sufficient of each so that
they can properly balance their rations. Chicks fed
on one grain food, or kept on short rations, and
thus starved into eating something not good for
them at that particular time are easy preys to
bowel trouble. Good, clean commercial chick food,
put up by a reliable firm, is a safe food for the
chicks. The so-called chick feed which is nothing
more or less than fine waste fanned from grains
in the mills is, as a rule, a very poor feed, to say the
least, and the most expensive in the end, for one
pays for a lot of chaff and other material which the
chicks will not eat.

Chicks in confinement cannot pick up the
vegetable matter which they could obtain if given
free range. It is therefore of the utmost impor-
tance that raw vegetable food be supplied in
sufficient quantities. During the early part of the
season when grasses, etc., are scarce, raw potatoes
or beets are a most satisfactory vegetable food, and
should be fed chopped up fine once a day. A little

BOWEL TROUBLE IN CHICKS 177

fresh lettuce or tender sprouted oats is very good
and much relished.

Chicks, like human beings, enjoy a boiled dinner
for a change, and for this purpose boiled cracked
rice, or wheat with a little salt seasoning cannot
be surpassed. In every case these grains should
be boiled almost dry and fed when cool, but should
not be given as a regular diet.

When the first symptoms of bowel trouble are
noticed in the flock take some scalded sweet milk
into which mix a little grated nutmeg, and give
them all they want of this to drink in place of
water. Feed them on boiled rice, sprinkled with
fine bone meal, until the symptoms have disap-
peared. If this treatment does not check the disease
it is advisable to resort to some reliable diarrhoea
remedy, separate the sick from the healthy, and
thoroughly disinfect the brooder and run.

After all, it is easier to prevent the disease, by
following the foregoing suggestions, than it is to
cure it.

CHAPTER XXXVII

LEG-WEAKNESS

LEG-WEAKNEsS in a flock of half-grown chicks is
due to several causes. It generally makes its appear-
ance in flocks ranging from three to six months of
age, and the cockerels are more apt to be affected
than the pullets.

One of the causes is the over-feeding of fat-
producing foods. The weight of the body being
increased to such an extent that the legs are unable
to properly support the extra weight thus created.
Poultry raisers bent on saving time to bring their
flocks up to broiler weight often overdo the forc-
ing process to such a degree as to cause such
disease.

The larger the variety the greater the tendency
for leg-weakness through feeding. The smaller
breeds being more active are not inclined to take
on flesh as rapidly, they are too busy running about
and scratching, provided, of course, the oppor-
tunity to do so is given them. For instance, the
percentage of leg-weakness cases in Leghorns is
very small, and when a case makes its appearance
it is generally attributed to other causes than the
over-fattened condition of the body. Even Leg-
horn chicks in close confinement, but given plenty

178

LEG-WEAKNESS 179

of scratching material, are seldom affected with this
malady. If the stock from which the chicks have
been bred is vigorous, Leghorn chicks will keep
active under almost any conditions. It is a natural
born instinct for them to keep scratching; they
are bound to keep busy some way or another from
morning until evening. What is true of the Leg-
horns in this respect is also true of the other
smaller breeds.

Chicks of the larger breeds should be given more
of an opportunity for exercise. The runway
should be larger, the feeding should be done more
carefully, and every opportunity offered them to
keep them busy. Feed the grain feeds in litter, or
scatter it amongst the loose earth so that they are
bound to keep digging for it. Where the chicks
are kept in rather close quarters, it is advisable to
dig up the soil, scatter the grains over this freshly
dug up soil and then run a rake over it. This is
bound to cause activity, in other words, the chicks
must work for every particle of grain they get.
Chicks put on range, on the colony house plan will,
as a rule, get plenty of exercise running around
hunting bugs and grasses, but the city man has not
the space to afford his growing stock such an oppor-
tunity to forage for themselves, hence he must, to
a certain extent resort to the artificial.

Another cause for leg-weakness is the feeding of
too little bone and muscle forming foods. Chicks

180 LEG-WEAKNESS

which are deprived of getting plenty of insects must
be given animal matter. Raw meat, ground up, fed
a few times every week is very beneficial to them.
Beef scraps, of good quality, free from a musty
smell, and containing a good percentage of granu-
lated bone should be fed to the chicks in a hopper
provided for that purpose. I would not advise mix-
ing the beef scraps in the ground food as it has a
tendency to make it mouldy, the best method is to
feed it in a hopper by itself. Granulated bone may
also be purchased separately from the beef scraps,
and that can be mixed with the grit and charcoal.
Skimmed milk is also very good for chicks, and
helps to build them up. Wet mashes should be
avoided.

Chicks kept on board floors too long, and not
given soil to run on are liable to become afflicted
with leg-weakness. When chicks reach the age of ~
three weeks they should be given access to an out-
door run, they need lots of fresh air and fresh
earth to scratch in. During the early spring when
weather conditions are such that this is impossible,
it is advisable to either spread a layer of soil on the
board floor, or provide a large shallow box filled
with soil.

The observant poultry raiser will usually notice
the first symptoms of leg-weakness, the chick will
show signs of unsteadiness in walking, and its leg
muscles will appear working at a disadvantage.

LEG-WEAKNESS 181

Within a few days the chick will hesitate about
walking very much, and resume a sitting position
while feeding. During the first few days this dis-
ease does not affect the appetite, nor does it affect
the general appearance of the bird, it simply ap-
pears weak on its legs, but as time goes on it be-
comes weaker and, not being able to get about, it
is trampled on and pecked by its mates, and soon
becomes thin and louse ridden.

Do not neglect to take the chick in hand when the
first symptoms of this disease appear. If the bird
comes from vigorous stock, it is not a difficult task
to put it on its feet again. Find the cause and
correct that first of all, give one-half teaspoonful
of tincture of nux vomica to every quart of water,
and rub the legs with tincture of arnica. Do not
feed any corn—use wheat, steel-cut oats and bran
until the hens are in the best condition, and show no
further signs of leg-weakness.

CHAPTER XXXVIII

EGG-BOUND

EGG-BOUND is a condition of the egg passage af-
fecting more frequently hens of the heavier breeds.
Active fowls, such as Leghorns, Minorcas, Cam-
pines, Hamburgs, Anconas, and others of the smaller
breeds are seldom troubled with this ailment. The
cause is attributed in most cases to an overfat con-
dition, which produces a pressure upon the egg
passage, resulting in the difficult performing of its
proper function. Sluggish fowls, those which have
been closely confined without being given the nec-
essary artificial exercise, are common prey to this
disease.

Sometimes the muscular tissue is replaced by
streaks of fat, which weaken the muscles of the
egg passage and, by straining, the weak walls give
way, permitting the egg or its contents to pass
into the abdominal cavity. This condition produces
inflammation, followed by peritonitis.

Occasionally the poultry raiser will find a dead
hen on the nest, which has died without an appar-
ent cause, but upon close investigation it will be
found that there was an egg-bound condition which
resulted in a weakening condition of the heart. The
fatty condition of the bird has affected the muscles

182

EGG-BOUND 183

of the heart, and the extra strain was too severe
upon these muscles.

Overfat hens are apt to lay double yolk eggs,
which adds to strain and difficulty in passage. At
times eggs may get broken while passing through
the oviduct and will obstruct the passage of the other
eggs. Pullets may become egg-bound for a few days
in endeavoring to pass their first eggs, but such
cases generally will adjust themselves within a few
days and need no treatment.

An egg-bound condition may result in inflamma-
tion of the egg passage, which is quite a serious
disease. The hen thus affected has a constant de-
sire to strain, and this strain is at times so violent
as to cause the breaking of a blood vessel and re-
sult in the bird’s sudden death.

If the poultryman would watch his flock closely
there is little danger of inflammation of the egg
passage. When a hen is detected moving about
slowly, going often in the nest without dropping
an egg, and the tail feathers are seen to be lowered,
take her in hand, watch the movements of the mus-
cles at the vent, and you will notice her efforts to
eject an egg. Oil your finger and pass it into the
passage; you will readily detect the muscular move-
- ments and in most cases touch the egg.

One of the simple treatments which has proven
effective is to hold the hen with her vent over a
steaming dish of boiling water. Should this not

184 EGG-BOUND

be effective enough to relax the parts for the deliy-
ery of the egg, inject a small quantity of olive or
sweet oil. While the hen is undergoing this treat-
ment, feed her on soft, unstimulating foods, and
give her a half teaspoonful of linseed oil every few
hours. After the egg has been removed should
there be any signs of inflammation, syringe the pas-
sage with a weak solution of carbolic acid. Keep
the fowl in a quiet place, away from the rest of the
flock.

An overfatty condition is also the cause for the
laying of soft shelled eggs. Sometimes it is caused
by the overstimulation of the egg organs, brought
about by the overfeeding of too much spice, which
is apt to cause irritation of the egg passage.

Closely confined fowls not supplied with a va-
riety of food are more liable to lay soft shelled eggs
than those having plenty of range or supplied with
exercise in an artificial way and fed a variety of
grains in a well-balanced ration. Oyster shells, grit,
and plenty of green foods will assist greatly in
preventing such conditions of the egg organs.

If your hens are too fat provide a diet low in
fat-producing elements, make the ‘birds work for
what they get, and put one teaspoonful of sulphate
of magnesia to every pint of drinking water twice
a week for a few weeks.

Should the hens still persist in laying soft shelled
eggs add five drops of fluid extract of ergot to

EGG-BOUND 185

each quart of drinking water every other day for a
period of one week. Do not have any other water
around while giving them the mixture, otherwise
the fowls will not touch it.

CHAPTER XXXIX

FROST-BITE

Exposure to low temperature is the direct cause for
frost-bites, or commonly called frozen comb, and
the high single-combed varieties of poultry are more
easily affected than the smaller and rose, or peacomb,
varieties. The single-comb Leghorn and all similar
varieties must for this reason have special attention
during severe cold weather or they are bound to be
victims to this ailment. Under-feeding increases the
danger materially, and fowls of low vitality are more
subject to affection.

Fowls which have not been too closely housed
from the beginning of the colder weather, and which
are given an enclosed, curtain-front roosting com-
partment, will in most cases withstand the severest
winter nights without having their combs affected.
Of course, it must be understood that the house is
well constructed, free from drafts and dampness.

A common mistake is building the roosts too close
to the glass windows. Glass draws frost, and for
this reason it is not advisable to have too much glass
in a roosting house. All glass front poultry houses
are very warm during the day time when the sun
beats into them, but they are also exceptionally cold

186

FROST-BITE 187

at night; in other words, the temperature of the
house goes from one extreme to the other. Such a
condition is bound to produce many cases of frost-
bite.

Fowls may also have their combs frost-bitten dur-
ing the day time, provided they are permitted to run
in unprotected runs during stormy, zero weather.
It is therefore advisable to keep the birds in the
houses and scratching sheds during the severest days.
Poorly constructed fountains are often the cause of
frost-bitten wattles, the latter becoming wet and
then exposed to the cold winds, which is liable to
result in a pair of frozen wattles.

When a comb is frost-bitten, it turns purple, and
in severe cases black; in the latter condition it is
almost impossible to keep the affected part from fall-
ing off. As soon as the first symptoms of a frozen
comb are apparent, no time should be lost. The bird
must be taken in hand promptly; apply some snow
to the affected parts, or, if this is not at hand, some
cold water will serve. Use freely until the frost is
thawed out and the circulation is restored; after
which apply, mornings and evenings, a mixture of
six parts vaseline or lard, two parts glycerine and
one part turpentine.

A bird affected with frost-bite should not be imme-
diately put into a warm room or placed where the
sun will reach it; the main point is to start the circu-
lation gradually.

CHAPTER XE.

RHEUMATISM

THIs disease in most cases affects the legs, although
it may affect any part of the body. The causes of
this ailment are exposure to dampness and cold, the
feeding of too much animal matter and not enough
vegetable matter; or it may have come down from
ancestors with rheumatic tendencies. It affects both
the old fowls and the chicks, the latter at brooderage.

The symptoms are a contraction of the muscles of
the legs, which draws up the toes and flexes the
shanks on the knees, and whenever the bird tries to
straighten itself, it seems to have a severe pain. In-
flammation and pain in the muscles and joints causes
the bird to sit down most of the time, and in most
cases the joints will be swollen.

Remove the ailing fowls to dry, sunny quarters,
with plenty of straw or other dry litter, and care
should be taken to keep this litter dry by protecting
the drinking fountains. Give them as much vege-
table matter as possible, and feed sparingly on animal
matter. Rub the swollen joints and muscles with
witch-hazel, and give them 15 grains of iodide of
potassium to every quart of drinking water.

188

RHEUMATISM 189

Brooders so constructed as to supply the heat from
the bottom are very apt to cause rheumatism in the
chicks; keeping chicks in damp basements, or per-
mitting them to run on cold cement floors, is another
cause. Chicks are very liable to succumb to this dis-
ease, whereas there is less danger of losing the grown
fowls unless the disease should go to the heart.

CHAPTER XLI
ROUP

Rovup has caused more havoc in poultry keeping than
any one disease. Thousands of fowls succumb annu-
ally from its ravages, and entire flocks are wiped out
or made useless for future breeding purposes. It is
very contagious, and one infected bird may spread
the disease throughout the flock in a very short time.

Many inexperienced poultry keepers mistake a
severe cold for roup. A neglected cold may develop
into a case of roup; hence, a fowl suffering from a
cold, be it ever so slight, should not be passed by
lightly, but should be taken in hand and treated.
This malignant disease is more prevalent during the
fall and winter months, especially when the weather
is cold and damp. Summer cases are not so common
unless the hens are kept under insanitary conditions.
Filthy, damp quarters, too close housing, and unclean
drinking vessels are breeders of this disease. Roup
may also be inherited from parent stock which has
been affected with it, and not properly cured. A run-
down flock with low vitality is an easy prey to its
ravages,

The common symptoms of roup are a discharge of
the nostrils, which thickens as the disease progresses ;

190

ROUP I9I

watery eye or eyes, which gradually swell and later
close entirely; the head, in advanced stages, will
become swollen, and the bird has difficulty in breath-
ing. I have seen specimens completely blind with
this disease, and in such condition were unable to
partake of food. The last stages of this disease are
often accompanied with diarrhoea, which results in
quick death.

A roupy bird must be treated in its early stages in
order to effect a complete cure and one that will not
show its after-effects. Severe and advanced cases
have been cured; but personally, I would not care to
breed from such birds, even though the fowls them-
selves, from all outer appearances, seem perfectly
healthy. The trouble with this disease is that it may
seem entirely cured, but in reality is dormant, only to
break out again when least expected.

Roup should not be trifled with; it must be vigor-
ously treated; no half measures will do. It must
be stamped out, and stamped out completely. Do
not let any one make you believe that roup is easily
cured, and that it is nothing more than a severe cold,
which can be speedily eradicated by local external
application on the infected parts. Such is not the
case; to obtain the desired result—a permanent cure
_ —requires both internal and external treatment.

In the treatment of roup, the first step to take is
precaution. Remove all infected fowls from those
showing no symptoms. Thoroughly disinfect the

192 . ROUP

houses and pens from which such birds have been
taken; boil out the drinking vessels; clean and dis-
infect the feed hoppers and other utensils used by the
diseased specimens. Put some permanganate of
potassium in the drinking water—just enough to turn
the water a light red color. Watch the flock closely ;
look over each bird daily for new victims, and go
into the hen house at night to listen to their breathing.

There are many successful treatments for roup,
but I will only give two simple remedies which I
have found will cure severe cases. :

Prepare a solution of one part peroxide of hydro-
gen to five parts of water, with which bathe the head
and eyes twice or three times daily. Take a medicine
dropper and pour some of this solution up the nos-
trils. It may be necessary to clean off the hard, putrid
matter in nostrils before it can be injected. Give the
bird nothing to drink but the potassium water men-
tioned before, until cured, after which some reliable
tonic will be found very beneficial. |

Another simple remedy is to float some common
kerosene oil on the top of a pail of water and dip
the bird’s entire head in this solution for a few sec-
onds twice daily. I would also advise the potassium
drinking water with this treatment.

Another form of this disease is called diphtheritic
roup, which is very contagious and difficult to cure.
It affects the mucous membrane of the nasal passage,
throat, mouth and eyes. Yellow patches will form

ROUP 193

on the affected parts, which give forth a foul odor.
These patches grow rapidly in size, often filling the
mouth and throat so as to cause suffocation.

There is only one remedy to suggest for this dis-
ease, and that is the hatchet, as birds thus infected
will never be fit for breeders, nor will the hens ever
amount to much as layers.

Diphtheritic roup may be detected by its very
offensive odor. It is claimed that this form of
roup may be transmitted to the party handling such
birds. This is another reason why all birds thus
affected should be killed and not treated.

CHAPTER XLII

LIMBERNECK

LIMBERNECK is a partial paralysis of the neck
muscles, the bird losing all control of the neck
muscles. A fowl thus affected may be able to lift
its neck at times, but generally the crown of the head
rests on the ground between its legs most of the time.

Intestinal irritations are, in most cases, the direct
causes of this disease, and frequently it is accom-
panied by acute indigestion, intestinal parasites, at-
tacks of colic or crop inflammation. The eating of
putrid meat or maggots are common causes, ana
sometimes feeding on one grain or a sudden fright
may bring on this disease. Fowls running upon old
contaminated ground which has not been spaded or
properly renovated may also contract the disease.
Chicks and fowls of all ages are subject to this dis-
ease, and no particular part of the country is exempt.
A very successful treatment for this disease is to
give an adult fowl a mixture of one teaspoonful each
of turpentine and sweet oil, and chicks three to
twelve drops of each, according to the age of the
victim. In about a half hour this should be followed
by some warm milk, to which has been added a lib-
eral sprinkling of black pepper. This should be

104

LIMBERNECK 1095

repeated at intervals of every two hours, a half tea-
spoonful for chicks and a tablespoonful for adult
fowls. As soon as the patient has sufficiently recov-
ered, it should be put upon a boiled rice diet, followed
by raw vegetable feeding, a little grain and beef
scraps. |

Where this disease is caused from an epileptic or
brain trouble, the foregoing treatment will not effect
a cure, and in such cases it is advisable to kill the
bird.

CHAPTER XLIII
GAPES

GAPES 1s a very common and troublesome disease
amongst both chicks and fowls. It is a parasitic dis-
ease, and has the appearance of one worm, reddish
in color, but upon a closer examination it will be
found to be two worms, male and female, linked
together. These worms fasten to the lining of the
windpipe, and in that position suck the blood from
the victim. It seems to be more dangerous to chicks
from one to six weeks old. Death generally results
from loss of blood and debility, or a large number of
worms may cause suffocation.

The disease spreads easily, because there are sev-
eral thousand eggs in the female worm, which are
not laid but which escape by the bursting of the
female’s body. At times these develop into worms
in the bird’s windpipe, but are more often coughed
up and thus picked up by other birds through the
food, water, or the ground.

The presence of gapes is noted by frequent gaping,
coughing, sneezing and whistling, and weakening,
dumpish condition of the chick or fowl. Badly
affected birds cough as though suffocating, shake
their heads frequently, and often stand with wings
drooping, eyes closed, and mouth open.

196

GAPES 197

When this disease is discovered, stringent meas-
ures must be adopted to prevent contagion of the
entire flock. Where chicks or fowls are kept in runs,
these runs must be thoroughly gone over with a
strong disinfectant or air-slaked lime, after which
they should be spaded over. Where the birds have
a large range, such a measure of prevention is not
practical, or in most cases impossible; but the houses,
coops or brooders, as the case may be, and the drink-
ing vessels and feeding troughs, must be thoroughly
disinfected. Remove all the sick birds from the well
ones, and put a small piece of copperas in the drink-
ing water as a preventive.

The treatment most commonly and most success-
fully used is extraction. This operation requires
some patience on the part of the operator, but it is
simple, and a little practice will make a skillful
operator out of the least experienced poultry raiser.

Either purchase a wire gapeworm extractor from
a dealer in poultry supplies, or make your own ex-
tractor by looping a horsehair. Mix a solution of
good disinfectant, into which the extractor should be
dipped before and after using.

Take the bird firmly in the left hand, head placed
firmly between the fore-finger and thumb, its mouth
open, and its neck stretched out straight from the
body. Dip the extractor in the disinfectant solu-
tion, then insert it gently into the windpipe and with-
draw it with a slight twist. Most of the worms will

198 GAPES

be extracted, and any remaining will most likely be
killed by the disinfecting solution. Burn the worms
extracted, so as not to be a source of danger to other
fowls. Care should be taken not to permit too much
of the solution on the extractor, or some of it may
drop into the windpipe and strangle the bird.

Some poultrymen use the lime treatment. The
birds are placed into a box, the top of which is cov-
ered with burlap; through this burlap top the air-
slaked lime is slowly sifted throughout the chamber.
The air becomes full of lime dust, which causes the
birds to cough up the worms. Fresh air must be
admitted to the box, and too much lime must not be
used, or it may inflame the mucous membrane of the
bird’s air passage. |

Personally, I prefer the use of the extractor.

CHAPTER XLIV

CHOLERA

CHOLERA is a most contagious and generally a fatal
disease. It is not so common amongst poultry as
many are led to believe. Too often severe cases of
diarrhoea are mistaken for cholera. This disease
attacks both old and young, and its progress is very
rapid. It is without a doubt the most dangerous ail-
ment to which poultry is subject, and when it makes
its appearance, it requires prompt action and meas-
ures to counteract its rapid infection of the entire
flock.

The symptoms of cholera are sleepiness, ruffled
feathers, wings drooped, loss of appetite, an unusual
thirst, over-drinking of water, high fever, legs dry
and hot, pale comb, bloodless wattles and face, dull
eyes, loss of strength and flesh, yellowish-green
droppings, which in advanced stages turn to a grass-
green color; feathers about the vent become soiled,
and before the bird finally dies, it is commonly
attacked with convulsions.

A treatment is almost useless, as the disease’s
progress is so rapid, and, therefore, as a safety meas-
ure for the rest of the flock not showing any symp-
toms, it is advisable to kill and burn all infected

199

200 CHOLERA

specimens promptly. It is also a good policy to estab-
lish a pest house, away from the other poultry houses,
for those birds which are inclined to be just a little
dumpish, and keep them under quarantine until the
danger period for showing direct symptoms has been
overcome. Give these suspects one-tenth-grain tab-
lets of corrosive sublimate to every quart of water.
As a diet, give them stale bread soaked in boiled
milk and well seasoned with pepper.

Where the flock and houses have been exposed to
infected birds, hygienic and sanitary measures must
be promptly resorted to. Lose no time in burning
up all the litter in the houses and yards; sprinkle air-
slaked lime throughout the houses, and disinfect the
roosts, nest boxes, drinking fountains, food utensils,
the runs, etc.

Another remedy quite frequently used for both
cholera and diarrhcea is to mix one teaspoonful of
spirits of camphor with sugar and add to each quart
of drinking water.

CHAPTER XLV
SCALY LEGS

SCALY LEGS are caused by the irritation of a para-
site, which makes its way under the scales of the
shanks and toes. It may be transmitted from one
fowl to another, from an infected house, or from the
roosts.

It is very easily cured by mixing kerosene and lard
and applying this thoroughly twice each day. Sul-
phur and lard is also very good. Rub this well into
the rough parts, mornings and evenings, for at least
a week,

I would also advise keeping the birds under treat-
ment on straw, away from dirt and filth, until cured.
Should a good many in the flock be infected, give
every bird a few treatments with either one of the
above mentioned mixtures. By following these sug-
gestions, you will eliminate the new cases which are
liable to break out.

201

CHAPTER XiVi
CROP BOUND

Crop Bounp is caused by the swelling of grain, or
by shavings, long pieces of hay or grass obstructing
the outlet and also by foods forming a hard mass in
the crop. Confined fowls which are deprived of
the necessary vegetable diet often eat the litter,
resulting in this condition. Sometimes the fowls
will eat a quantity of green leaves and some of these
become packed in such a manner that the passage
of the food is made impossible. The absence of
grit and oyster shells tend towards bringing on this
disease.

In most cases an operation becomes necessary,
but I would advise trying the following treatment
first: Secure a small rubber tube not thicker than
a lead pencil, to which should be fastened a glass
or tin funnel. Moisten the tube in warm water
and insert same into the mouth and down the throat
into the crop. Avoid getting it into the windpipe,
or a strangled fowl will be the result. Slowly pour
a quantity of warm water, not too hot, into the
funnel, and keep busy working the crop with the
finger so as to loosen up the contents of the crop
until it is soft. Next hold the bird head down-
ward and keep on working the crop until the mass

202

CROP BOUND 203

is worked out. After this treatment give the bird
warm water to drink, feed soft and easily digested
foods for a few days and add a reliable tonic to the
drinking water.

If the bird does not respond to this treatment an
operation on the crop is necessary. To do this
properly it will be necessary to have some assistance.
One should hold the bird while the other gently
plucks the feathers from the breast, making a bare
spot about one-half of an inch wide and two inches
long, and covering the hard part of the crop. Take
a sharp knife and carefully cut only through the
outer skin, leaving the crop proper intact until the
blood stops flowing. Then cut a small hole about
-a half an inch in length into the crop and from
this small opening remove the contents with a small
stick. To make certain no obstruction is over the
outlet passage insert the little finger into the open-
ing. Wash the wound with warm water into which
drop a few drops of carbolic acid or some other
good germicide. After which sew up the opening
in the crop, using a needle and white silk thread.
Only two single stitches are necessary, but leave
both ends long enough to hang out of the crop about
an inch. Then take three stitches in the skin, but
don’t include the crop in the tie. Feed on light soft
food and keep off the grain ration for a week or
ten days. A tonic in the drinking water is advisable.

CHAPTER XLVII

CANKER

THIs disease may start with a small sore and then
work its way upward under the skin, producing a
swelling on the outside. If you lance the part
swollen you will find it, no doubt, filled with a
thick, cheesy substance. You might also start from
the point of the small sore and work up into it. It
is absolutely necessary that you reach the seat of
the trouble, and burn it out with a solution of five
grains of nitrate of silver to an ounce of distilled
water, but first of all remove all the yellow, cheesy
substance possible. Wash this cavity out daily and
use the nitrate of silver solution freely, and then
saturate a piece of cotton with a good antiseptic
and plug up the cavity. Mix up a light solution
of permanganate of potash and add this to the drink-
ing water, giving them no other water to drink.

This is a very stubborn disease to cure, but with
persistency it may be very successfully combated.
Fowls once affected with this disease are liable to
produce this scrofulous disease in their offspring.
This disease is contagious and may be transmitted
to the balance of the flock through the drinking ves-
sels; therefore remove all diseased birds, and put
them into clean, disinfected coops.

204.

CHAPTER XLVIII

EXHIBITING POULTRY

THE breeding of standard varieties of poultry for
exhibition purposes requires considerable study and
careful mating of the breeding pens. Beauty alone
is no assurance of standard quality. A specimen to
be eligible for the show room must conform as
nearly as possible to the standard. Many ama-
teurs think because they have fine looking birds they
can show and win in competition, but when these
birds are handled by an expert and carefully in-
spected they are found to be deficient.

There are a multitude of points to take into con-
sideration. Even poultry fanciers who have studied
the American standard of perfection carefully are
ofttimes unable to make proper selections. The rea-
son for this is their eyes are not trained for this
work.

The amateur, no matter how fine a stock he has,
should not attempt to do his own selecting for the
show room.

There are many poultry fanciers who know the
general outline of the breeds which they keep—
their eyes are trained to detect a standard shaped
specimen—but when it comes to the many minor
points they are entirely at sea. I have known of

205

206 HXHIBITING POULTRY

such fanciers finding fault with decisions at the
shows, but when shown the minor defects which
they overlooked they realized their inability to select
properly.

Ofttimes we notice fine looking specimens which
we think should have shared in the prize money, but
when these birds are taken in hand and carefully
gone over we find some decided defects. This also
holds good in buying birds.

Most of the criticism heaped upon the judges
comes from amateurs who imagine they know as
much about poultry as those who have made this
work, I might say, a life study. An experienced
exhibiter, as a rule, very seldom finds fault with
the judge’s decision even if he knows an error has
been made. Such mistakes cannot always be
avoided.

Another thing lost sight of by most inexperienced
exhibitors is putting their show birds in the proper
condition. <A bird, no matter how high its quality,
if not groomed for the pen, will not display its good
qualities. Condition means much in the judge’s
eyes, and many a good show specimen has met its
Waterloo for the lack of it. One cannot expect
to take a bird off the roost the night before shipping
to the show and expect such a bird to be in show
condition. Show birds should be penned in indi-
vidual coops beforehand so that they will be accus-
tomed to the imprisonment.

EXHIBITING POULTRY 207

Exhibition birds must first of all be quite tame;
then they should go through a little training so that
they will stand up in position when necessary.

All birds for the show room should be perfectly
clean and most white fowls must be properly washed.
The legs and combs should also be scrubbed and
rubbed with alcohol. After the birds have been
washed put them into clean straw covered pens in
a warm place. There is quite a little trick in wash-
ing birds properly and it requires practice.

Proper shipping coops is another item. You can-
not expect the birds to arrive at their destination in
good condition unless the right kind of coops are
used for transporting them. Some poultry raisers
use any kind of old box or crate, into which they
crowd their stock, and the result is broken feathers,
picked up combs, and sometimes disease from being
exposed to the inclement weather.

CHAPTER XLIX
SHIPPING BABY CHICKS

THE traffic in day-old chicks, or what is commonly
called, the “baby chick business,” is not understood
by the general public. They cannot understand how
these little, one might say helpless, creatures can
be carried by the express companies for hundreds
of miles without either food or water or artificial
heat. The layman, unfamiliar with poultry raising,
is apt to condemn it as bordering upon cruelty to
animals, but the man or woman who has given the
subject any study at all will soon be convinced that
such is not the case.

The shipping of day-old chicks was carried on in
England some few years before it was attempted
in this country, but there the distances are not so
great, and it remained for the American poultry
breeders to demonstrate to the world that they
could be safely shipped hundreds of miles with equal
success.

The day-old chick business is not a difficult thing to
handle, provided several important details are care-
fully looked after. First, you must produce chicks with
the proper vitality, and this can only be brought
about by obtaining the eggs from good, healthy and
vigorous breeding stock, and then the proper incu-
bation of these eggs. Second, proper shipping boxes

208

SHIPPING BABY CHICKS 209

must be provided, so ventilated as to prevent direct
draft. Third, care should be exercised not to chill
the youngsters in removing them from the incubator
into the shipping boxes. Fourth, do not feed them
anything at all, the yolk of the egg supplying all the
nourishment necessary for the first few days.

There are several forms of boxes used for shipping
by express. Some use a wooden constructed box,
covered with burlap, but I much prefer the heavy
cardboard, or corrugated boxes, divided into com-
partments holding 25 chicks each. The objection
to the wooden parcel covered with burlap is that the
latter sometimes gets torn in transit, permitting too
much air to get into the compartment, thus chill-
ing the occupants, or admitting too much light in
one spot to which the chicks will naturally crowd, -
and in doing so will trample on each other, killing
some and crippling others.

Every precaution should be taken not to give the
chicks too much ventilation, a very small hole will
supply enough oxygen to a compartment holding
25 chicks, as the lung capacity of a day-old chick
is very small. Too much air will reduce the temper-
ature of the box: The body heat of 25 chicks
crowded together in a properly constructed and
ventilated box will, under ordinary conditions, go
as high as 95 degrees, which by the way is about
the average brooder heat. The amount of light
supplied should also be very limited, chicks remain-

210 SHIPPING BABY CHICKS

ing more quiet when the compartment is dark, thus
preventing jostling and trampling. The bottom of
the box should be covered with short-cut alfalfa,
clover, or straw, to.the depth of about a half an
inch. The lid should be securely fastened on, tied
down, which will keep the curious from opening
the box. Then the package should be labeled, de-
noting its contents.

It is very important to notify the purchaser just
when the shipment is to be made, so that the party
ean be on the lookout for them, preventing unnec-
essary delay, and also making it possible to have
brooder, etc., in readiness when the little fellows ar-
rive at their destination. In cases where the shipper
does not take this precaution it often turns out very
disastrous.

The month of May is an excellent time to pur-
chase baby chicks, weather conditions have set-
tled and the germ of the eggs are stronger, thus
bringing forth good vigcrous chicks. May chicks
develop very quickly, and it is a matter of record
that many of the New York Madison Square Garden
and Chicago Coliseum Poultry Show winners for
several years have been hatched in the “Merry
Month of May.” May hatched chicks are all right,
and if properly fed and cared for will fill the ege
basket the following winter. Some of the very
highest authorities throughout the country agree
on this point.

CHAPTER L
COLOR OF CHICKS

’ A COMMON question asked, especially by novices,
who have purchased baby chicks or settings of eggs,
is regarding the correct color and markings of the
newly hatched birds. It is often thought that the
youngsters should exactly resemble their parents in
color, and when it is found that a brood of Black
_Minorcas are black and white, the vender is taken
to task and is condemned for sending out inferior
and mixed stock, or eggs, as the case may be.

The black varieties seem to cause the most com-
plaints, as the chicks of those breeds are generally
black and white, with the white predominating.
Some of those showing the most white mature to
_ be fowls of the best black color.

Chicks of the white breeds are creamy white,
milk white, and yellow white, sometimes with gray
spots or marks. Light marked breeds, such as the
light Brahmas and Columbian Wyandottes, have no
indication of the black hackle and tai! markings
which will develop when they get their full plumage.
When hatched barred Plymouth Rocks are sooty
black on their backs and necks, white on the throats
and wing tips, and have patches of grayish white
on the heads.

211

212 COLOR OF CHICKS

The buff varieties of chicks have buff or yellow
plumage when hatched, but a light buff chick sel-
dom improves in color with age. The partridge
colored varieties as well as black, red games, and
brown Leghorns, are clearly marked along the back
with a brown stripe, and on each side of this is a
much lighter stripe running from the head to the
tail. These varieties in many cases show white
wing feathers before they molt their chick feathers
in the fall.

Houdan babies are white with black markings
on heads and shoulders, and have tuft on their heads,
the size denoting the future crest. Houdans always
have five toes. Andalusians vary from French gray
to blue-black, but there are often some in a flock
that are black and white. Colored Dorkings are
light brown with dark stripes along the back, and
the Silver Dorkings have a much lighter marking
on the back.

Do not discard the chicks too soon because they
happen to show some off colored feathers. ‘These
may disappear after molting time.

CHAPTER LI

MOULTING

MOULTING TIME is the most trying period of the
year. Hens require special attention during this °
changing of plumage. The hens will stop laying,
but they deserve this much needed rest, every living
creature is entitled to some rest during the year.
Being scant on feathers, they should be provided
with good shelter, to protect them from exposure.
If this is not provided, roup and other diseases may
be expected. !

It is always desirable to have the fowls start
their molting as early as possible, so that they will
be through before the colder weather sets in. Those
molting early and getting through with it before the
fall storms will be the early winter layers.

As soon as the hens start losing their feathers,
the heavy grain diet should be cut down and more
green food should be fed, green food having a ten-
dency to loosen the feathers. Do not be worried
about the hens being hungry, it will do them good
to lose a little of their surplus flesh. Sunflower
seed will also assist them in molting, and will
brighten up the new feathers in the colored varie-
ties. A little Epsom salts in the drinking water once
or twice a week will keep them in good condition.

213

CHAPTER LII

HEALTHY EGGS

Doers the egg contain microbes? It may or it may
not. That is to say, there are eggs that appear to
be absolutely sterile, and again, there are eggs in
the contents of which microbes—bacteria or molds—
can be demonstrated. Poppe, in 1910, working in
the Royal Health Department in Berlin, came to
the conclusion that fresh laid eggs derived from
hens that have not copulated are mostly germ free
in their contents, whereas eggs laid by mated hens,
and as a rule fertilized, may contain bacteria.
Poppe speaks of this conclusion derived from his
own personal investigations as being a complete cor-
roboration of a view already in good standing. That
is to say, such reputable workers as Burden-Sander-
son (1878), Schrank (1888), and Menini as late
as 1908, had noted absolute freedom from bacteria
in recently laid hen’s eggs. The scientists’ accept-
ance of this view is seen in the fact that certain
workers proceeded to show why eggs were free
from microbes and we find Wurtz (1890), Turro
(1902), and Horowitz (1902), claiming, as a re-
sult of their researches, that the reason for this
freedom from bacteria is due to the presence in
both white and yolk of certain substances having
214

HEALTHY EGGS 7A

power to destroy bacteria. But Poppe, after going
back to 1878, says that we have to thank Zimmer-
man for showing us that only fresh laid eggs derived
1:01 virgin fowls are free from microbes, whereas
fer: 'e ergs generally contain bacteria and therefore
spoi mcre frequently than fertile eggs.

Ai.cther source of microbic invasion of the egg
and its contents is to be found in the external me-
dium. Poppe and Cao, as well as other investigators,
have demonstrated that microbes gain entrance to
the egg contents from dirty, moist surroundings.
Enough has been done in the way of investigation to
show that eggs while being kept for ordinary use
before hatching or marketing should be kept in a
clean, dry place.

Clean eggs laid by clean hens, in clean nests, kept
clean and delivered clean to the consumer—surely,
that sounds well. It is not such an idealistic notion
as to be unattainable in ordinary practice.

CHAPIER LIII

START THE BOYS

Way not interest the boys in poultry raising» Why
not give them some interesting work, whic: will
assist materially in reducing the high cost of living,
and educate them in a practical way?

Most every boy has leisure hours every day,
which could be utilized to good advantage not alone
for his parents’ sake but for his own. Give the
boy some pleasant occupation, and in nine cases out
of every ten he will grow up to be a good boy and
develop into an industrious, bright business man.

No other vocation offers as many opportunities
along this line as poultry raising.

There is lots of pleasure in poultry keeping; it
has a fascination not to be found in other lines, and
it offers the boy an opportunity to make money
without interfering with his studies. It will give
him exercise in a natural way, plenty of fresh air,
and relieve his mind from his daily studies.

Poultry keeping in a small way is not what
might be termed hard work, and yet it is work
that must be done systematically, carefully, and dili-
gently. The experiences gained in this way will
greatly benefit the boy in his future career, even
though another field of endeavor is choser in after

ane

START THE BOYS 217

years. It is knowledge that he cannot obtain through
books or verbal teachings; it is good, sound, prac-
tical experience, which only comes from the daily
routine necessary in successful poultry keeping. It
gives him actual business ideas not to be gotten from
his studies or from running about the streets with
other boys.

The average boy will take readily to the work.
To him chickens are pets, to start with; he likes
them because they are alive; he takes an interest
in feeding them, watching them run about, and
soon learns that they appreciate kind treatment.

If the boy gets to that point, and most boys
will, you may rest assured he will look after his
charges and not neglect them at any time. Of
course boys are boys and need watching, but there
is little watching necessary when they keep chick-

ens. :

Most boys want pets—some dogs, some cats,
some rabbits, and so on; something alive. Then,
why not give them pets which not alone pay for
their keep, but also net a profit and help reduce
the grocery and butcher bills. There is something
to such pets—yes, more to it than most fathers and
mothers realize.

I venture to say if more boys in the larger cities
had pets there would be less bad boys and less
criminally inclined young men. If the boys had
poultry to look after at home they would not be

218 START THE BOYS

found loitering about pool rooms. They would be
home boys, under the eyes of their parents or guar-
dians, and they would be good boys, honest boys,
and kind hearted boys.

Poultry raising will make the boy thoughtful.
He will soon learn that forgetfulness means loss.
There are many details to this work, and all of these
details are important. To carry them out success-
fully requires thoughtfulness and system. As he
progresses in his work he realizes more and more
the importance of attending to each detail, and
knows that none of them can be safely forgotten. —

By association with his little flock the boy learns
to be kind to animals, which tends towards making
him kind to his fellow men. This kindness grows
on him in a natural way, and kindness awakened in
this manner cannot possibly slumber in after years.

To keep poultry suceessfully requires some book-
keeping. An accurate account should be kept on ex-
penses and receipts. This will give the boy a chance
to get practical experience in this kind of work, and
teach him to be accurate in everything which in-
volves dollars and cents. It will also teach him the
importance of being economical in expenditures,
for it won’t take him long to learn the necessity of
holding down the expenses in order to have a sur-
plus in the treasury.

If the boy is industrious he will learn to use tools;
thus he will be able to build his own coops and re-

START THE BOYS 219

pair many things about the plant. He can also learn
to make many of his appliances, such as water foun-
tains, feed hoppers, nest boxes, shipping coops,
roosts, dropping boards, feed bins, brood coops, etc.
This gives the boy practical manual training, and at
the same time saves considerably on the expense
account.

Aside from the education the boy may get from
this line of work, the possibilities of making money
are favorable. I know of boys who are buying all
their own clothes and saving money for a college
education from the proceeds of backyard poultry
plants. The investment to start the boy in this busi-
ness is not heavy, in fact, it is much less than most
parents think. Start him in a modest way, and let
the little poultry farm grow with the boy.

Help him to decide on the breed to be kept. Don’t
let him have more than one breed to start with, and
do not permit him to have anything but thorough-
bred stock. He will take more interest in nice look-
ing, well-bred birds. They will cost little more, and
will do much better. It will also give him a chance
to sell eggs for hatching, and surplus stock at good
prices.

Kither buy him some chicks or eggs for hatching.
You can have the chicks shipped to you by express,
and they can then be given to hens or put into a
brooder, the latter preferable. Buy enough so he
will have a nice flock to select from in fall. The

220 START THE BOYS

surplus can easily be disposed of, and of course one
must make some allowances for losses.

Farmers would do well to give the younger boys
a chance with poultry. If nothing more, give them
one pen of good birds to start with. The boy or boys |
should have full charge of this pen and keep all its
profits for his or their own use. It will assist mate-
rially in interesting the boys in farm life, and make
them feel that they have a personal interest in at
least a part of the farm.

Here is an opportunity to start your boy or boys
in a business which may be the making of a success-
ful future career.

CHAPTER LIV
THE BILLION DOLLAR INDUSTRY

THE poultry industry is correctly termed the “bil-
lion dollar industry” of this country. In dollars
and cents it far exceeds the combined value of the
wheat and oats crops, and these figures, compiled
by Uncle Sam, only take into consideration the out-
put of poultry on the farms, not giving any data
on the output of poultry farms and back-yard poul-
try plants. It is hard to estimate definitely how
much in round numbers these nonconsidered sources
of supply would add to the grand total, but from
observations the figures at hand would be greatly
increased.

Quoting from government reports, seven states
raised more than 20,000,000 fowls in 1909—namely,
Illinois, Missouri, Iowa, Texas, Kansas, Ohio, and
Indiana. The combined production from these
states was more than 89 per cent of the poultry pro-
duced in the United States. Four states produced
more than 100,000,000 dozen eggs—Missouri, Iowa,
Ohio, and Illinois, which figures 26 per cent of the
total production from the figures at hand.

Illinois is in the lead for fowls raised in 1909.
The farms of this rich prairie state produced
32,352,888 fowls in that year, with a total valua-

221

222 THE BILLION DOLLAR INDUSTRY

tion of $15,404,028, which is an average of 48
cents a fowl. During the same period 100,119,418
dozens of eggs, valued at $18,940,454, an average
value of 19 cents per dozen, were produced in this
state.

Missouri's production of poultry amounted to
31,913,210, at a total value of $14,572,585, an av-
erage for each fowl of 46 cents. ‘The reported
total production of eggs amounted to 111,816,693,
aggregating a total valuation of $19,345,602, or an
average of 17 cents a dozen.

Towa, another big poultry raising state, had an
output of 29,999,147 fowls in 1909. The grand
total amounting to $13,914,985, an average of 46
cents for each fowl. The total amount of eggs
produced figured 109,760,487 dozens, with a valua-
tion of $19,235,600, or an average of 18 cents per
dozen. |

Ohio raised 23,433,005 fowls in the same year
and these were valued, as a total, at $10,997,633,
or an average of 47 cents a fowl. The 100,889,599
dozens of eggs produced in that state were valued
at $19,748,658, averaging 20 cents a dozen.

The report as compiled by the census bureau of
the United States shows the production of 1,591,-
311,371 dozens of eggs, valued at $306,688,960.
The production in 1899 was 1,293,662,433 dozen
eges and the value of $144,240,541, which shows
while the production of eggs on the farms of this

THE BILLION DOLLAR INDUSTRY 223

country only increased 23 per cent, the value more
than doubled, the exact amount of gain in dollars
being $162,448,419, or 112.6 per cent.

The total number of farms included in this 1909
report numbers 5,655,754, or 88.9 per cent of all
the farms in the United States, and the number of
such fowls was 488,468,354, or an average of 86.4
fowls a farm. ‘The total value of fowls produced
in 1909 in the entire country was $202,506,272, and
the total value given in 1899 amounted to $136,-
830,152. This shows an increase in the ten years
of $65,500,000, or 48 per cent.

CHAPTER LV

USEFUL HINTS FOR POULTRY RAISERS

Keep a careful record of your flock the year round.
It is the only way to find out how much they are
earning for you. Always charge yourself with all
the eggs and fowls used in your own kitchen; other-
wise, your record will not be accurate.

Keep a sharp lookout for rats and cats. Don’t
grow chicks to feed to four-legged thieves.

Buttermilk mixed with ground foods will tone up
the appetites of the fowls in the fattening pens.

Avoid feeding chick food that has been in stock
so long that it is moldy. It is bound to cause much
trouble.

Keep the chicks growing. If there are any droop-
ing their little wings and sitting around, look them
over carefully; they may be troubled with lice.

For egg production, pullets are the money makers
in a poultry piant; hence, they should receive every
attention from the poultry raiser.

224

USEFUL HINTS 226

To get the most out of your flocks, you must
adopt present-day methods, so as to be on even foot-
ing with your competitors.

It will pay to trap-nest your hens, and keep a
record of what each one is doing for the egg basket.
This is a sure way to weed out the “drones.”

Chicken feathers can be sold, but they do not
command the prices paid for duck feathers. White
chicken feathers bring the best prices.

Never frighten your fowls; keep them as tame as
possible. If occasion requires you to remove a hen
from the nest, do not throw her out, but lift her up
gently.

Train your pullets not to be afraid of you. Fowls
that are easily frightened never do so well, and cause
lots of trouble about the hen house. A wild pullet
is a nuisance in a well regulated flock.

A good way to test an incubator is to place eggs,
selected at random from the same fot, under a hen
at the same time the incubator is set and watch
results.

Disinfect the brooders before putting the chicks
therein. In fact, it is advisable to remove the chicks
and go through with this process at least once a week.

226 USEFUL HINTS

Sanitary conditions are absolutely necessary to retain
the health and vigor of the little ones.

It is a good idea to keep the pullets separate from
the old hens, as the former can stand heavier feeding
without danger of overfattening them. The surplus
cockerels should also be excluded from the pullets if
good results are to be attained.

Cleanliness in the runs is just as essential as in the
houses. Too often the yards are overlooked. If the
runs are bare of vegetation, they should be scraped
or raked often enough to prevent them from getting
filthy. Occasional spading is advisable.

Rake the litter in the scratching sheds and houses
often, so as to keep it clean and sanitary. A little
disinfectant sprinkled amongst the straw will also
assist in keeping it sanitary. Of course, the litter
must be changed when it becomes too much soiled.

Boiled rice, from which all the water has been
boiled out, is good for chicks; it regulates their
bowels and prevents diarrhoea. It should be fed once
or twice a week—not thrown on the ground, but fed
from a clean dish.

Either build the nest for the setting hen on the
ground, or put some fresh earth in the bottom of

USEFUL HINTS 227

the nesting box. The eggs need moisture during
incubation, and this is one of the best ways to sup-

ply it.

If the poultry keeper selects for vitality, keeps
not more than ten females to each male, feeds prop-
erly, selects the eggs of proper size and shape, there
is little danger of being troubled with unhatchable

esss.

Do not set the incubator in a stuffy room. Good
ventilation is absolutely necessary to obtain the de-
sired results. A basement or cellar is an ideal place
to set an incubator, providing a more even tempera-
ture and more moisture.

Local market conditions have at times much to do
with the variety of poultry most profitable to keep.
Some localities demand a brown egg, while others
want a white egg. It stands to reason that it is
advisable to cater to the demands of your market, in
order to get the best prices for your products.

Select the best shaped eggs for hatching purposes.
Never set any rough or deformed eggs, nor eggs
small in size. Have each setting as uniform in size
as possible. When having eggs shipped in for hatch-
ing purposes let them rest about 24 hours before
putting them under the hen.

228 WSEFUL HINTS

Save your poultry manure for the garden patch.
Sprinkle it with land plaster (gypsum) or coal ashes.
This makes an excellent compound for a fertilizer.
This manure is very valuable, and will make a big
improvement in your garden soil. Try it for your-
self, and you will be surprised what it will do.

An inactive, lazy cockerel or cock is not a safe
bird to use at the head of a pen from which you
expect to gather the eggs for hatching. Vitality
counts in him just as much as it does in the female;
in fact, more so, especially when only one male is
permitted to run with the hens.

Eggs may be safely dipped into water during
incubation, providing, of course, the water is of
the same temperature as the eggs, about 103 de-
grees. Do not dip later than the eighteenth day.
Such treatment is only necessary in the absence of
sufficient moisture.

ae

Give the srowing chicks plenty of exercise. The
run should be covered with short cut alfalfa, straw,
or clover, to the depth of two or three inches. Scat-
ter grain food in this litter, and make the youngsters
dig for it. The chicks will enjoy the sport and will
develop into strong, healthy fowls. In other words,
make them work for their food.

USEFUL HINTS 229

Go into the hen house at night and listen dili-
gently for a short while. It is a good way to detect
a cold or the first symptoms of roup in the flock.
Birds breathing hard or rattling in their throat should
be taken off the roost and carefully examined, and,
if affected in any way, removed to a coop or apart-
ment away from the rest of the flock.

Do not let your hens get into the habit of eating
eggs. This habit is one of the worst fowls can have,
and it is very apt to spread very rapidly throughout
a flock. By having the nesting boxes as dark as
possible, there is little danger of the hens acquiring
this habit; hens also prefer a dark, secluded place in
which to lay their eggs.

If your method of feeding gives good results do
not change it just because you read of other methods
used by other poultry raisers. Various methods may
be successful; conditions are so different that they
demand different methods, and a poultry raiser must
study the conditions of his own flock, their surround-
ings and the climatic conditions also.

Do not give foods of a too fattening nature during
the hot summer months. A good hot-weather feed
which can easily be obtained by the backyard poultry
raiser is boiled table scraps mixed with bran. Feed
this in a crumbly mass, and cold. For a grain food,

220 4. USEFUL HINTS

use oats and wheat. If the table scraps do not con-
tain sufficient meats, add some dry beef scraps, or
feed fresh meat.

Give your poultry a home of their own and don't
permit them to roost on trees, in the cow barn, im-
plement house, or other out-buildings. Build them
a good comfortable house for their own use, and
build it large enough for all. Do not keep more
stock than your poultry house or houses will hold.
Either build more houses or dispose of some of the
stock. This holds good in summer as well as winter.

A very common mistake made is to pack hatch-
ing eggs carelessly. Even though the buyer is a
beginner he will note the condition of the pack-
age when received by express or parcel post. If
the eggs have been packed poorly, and though they
have arrived safely he will not take a chance to give
you a future order. Good egg shipping parcels are
cheap, and should be used by everyone making a
business of selling hatching eggs.

For a persistent cough try the following: Pur-
chase from your druggist some tablets of arsenite
of antimony I-1,000 of a grain drug strength each.
Give each sick fowl one tablet three times each day
until relieved. If many fowls are affected put in

USEFUL HINTS 231

the drinking water twelve tablets to each pint of
water, and give them no other water to drink during
the treatment. This will cure the most obstinate
cough.

If you have your poultry confined in runs, plow
up some of the ground, so that the fowls will have
some fresh earth to scratch in. They enjoy it very
much, and it gives them a chance to find worms and
other things which are beneficial to them. Fowls
having access to the fields will find plenty of freshly
plowed soil, but it is better to supply it close at hand
so that they will not wander all over the farm. The
little chicks also like to scratch and dig into freshly
turned soil, and should be given every opportunity
to do so.

The marketing of eggs is a feature which needs
more attention. Many do not properly sort their
eggs. Each lot should be as uniform in size and
color as possible, and the culls should be used for
home consumption. Private consumers should be
served with eggs put up in neat packages holding one
or two dozen each. Have these boxes clean and
properly labeled. A neat package is a good adver-
tisement. Have the eggs clean. No one cares to
receive filthy-looking eggs. These little details are
very essential in marketing eggs, and should never
be overlooked.

232 USEFUL HINTS

So many poultry raisers lose sight of the fact
that oats is more reasonable in price than other
grains, and at the same time one of the very best
poultry foods. When buying oats, get the very best
quality obtainable. It is a much better feed during
hot weather than corn, being less heatening and con-
taining less fattening matter. If oats are boiled,
they will be more relished by the hens. One quart of
oats will swell into two quarts when boiled. Steel-
cut oats also makes an excellent feed for young
chicks. Sprouted oats is extensively used as a winter
_ green food, and produces good results amongst the
laying hens.

Poultry raisers who can spare a little time should
study up the art of caponizing. Capons demand a
good price upon the market, and are always in good
demand. The operation process is easily learned and
is so profitable that it pays any poultryman to try
his hand at it. The slips are not lost, and if you
kill a few by practicing you can sell the carcass on
the market or use it for home consumption. Of
course it is necessary that you have proper tools to
do this work, but these can be purchased at poultry
supply stores anywhere. Capons sell best in Febru-
ary, but also sell well during other seasons of the
year.

The best mixture for whitewash I know of is the
one used by the United States government. Here

USEFUL HINTS 233

it is: Take a half bushel of unslacked lime, slack
with boiling water, cover to keep in steam. Strain
through a fine sieve or strainer, add a peck of salt,
preferably dissolved beforehand; three pounds of
ground rice boiled to a paste; stir in while hot halt
pound of Spanish whiting and one pound of glue,
previously dissolved. Add about five gallons of
hot water to the mixture, stir well, and let it stand
for a few days. Apply hot. One pint covers one
yard. Will withstand the weather and will not
rub off.

Do not send out eggs for hatching which you
would not set yourself. Remember you are getting
a better price than you would be getting on the mar-
ket, hence your customers are entitled to something
more choice than the ordinary run of eating eggs.
When making a sale, fill the order with the object in
view of getting another order from the same cus-
tomer. Send a man nice looking good eggs, and he
will order again when in need of something in your
line, but send him cull eggs, and you will be the
loser. There is just as much in working up a trade
in the poultry business as any other line, and just
as much efforts should be put forward to please the
customers, |

People living on rented premises should purchase
portable houses or build movable structures. A

234 USEFUL HINTS

good, cheap house may be constructed from two
piano boxes at a cost of about $3. A simple way to
make such a house is to remove the boards from the
tall sides of the boxes, place them on two joists, open
sides facing each other, and then spike them down
securely. Use the boards removed to patch up the
open gaps between the boxes, and then cover with
some good roofing material. Put in the door and
windows, place your nests and roosts, and you will
then have a house to accommodate a dozen hens.
A good idea is to raise this house a couple of feet
from the ground, inclose the back and two ends with
boards, leaving the front open, so that the hens can
use this space for a scratching place in bad weather.

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A Back Yard Berry Patch
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Why Gardens Fail

A Succession of Garden Crops
Midsummer Plantings

Making the City Flock Pay
The Busy Bee

Laying out Flower Beds
Planting Annual Flowers

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