Tea-blending as a fine art

en WawAPre,

Tea Hills of China.

Tea-Blendins

§ FINE ART
ee as,

AUTHOR OF

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iTS

HistoRY AND Mystery.

“THE CUP THAT CHEERS BUT NOT INEBBIATES.’’—Cowper.

PHILADELPHIA:
PUBLISHED BY THE AUTHOR.
1896.

COPYRIGHT

BY
JOSEPH M. WALSH.

1896.

CONTENTS.

I.— INTRODUCTION

II.—CLASSIFICATION AND DESCRIPTION OF
TEAS

IIJ.—Art oF TESTING AND SELECTING TEAS
IV.—ADULTERATION AND DETECTION
V.—ArtT OF BLENDING TEAS .

VI.—AnrtT oF KEEPING, SELLING AND
PREPARING TEA

2f 77

Pages.
7-11
13-36
37-44
45-49

51-91

93-104

(Branch of Tea Plant.)

coal ee Seal

PART I.

INTRODUCTION.

HERE is no article handled by the grocer which
demands greater attention, engages more of his
: time, or has a more important bearing upon the
stiecess of his business than Tea, as it stands in many
respects far ahead of al! the other commodities in com-
manding and maintaining patronage, as well as in attract-
ing and retaining trade for numerous other articles, and
at the same time yielding a larger margin of profit to
the dealer. Gain being the fundamental object of all
business transactions, and as tea to the grocer plays such
an essential part in determining this profit, we may be
excused if, in considering the article from a purely
practical standpoint, we urge the relation which it has
to the success of the dealer, and who, asa general rule,
experiences much more difficulty in the judicious selec-
tion of his Tea than in any other staple he trades in.
The cause of this difficulty is obvious to dealers in Tea
in general, being entirely due to the numerous varieties
and almost innumerable grades, flavors and characters of
the commodity with which he is confronted and to be
selected from in order to satisfy the diversity of tastes
and various preferences to be catered to in order to please
each individual taste and preference. It therefore re-
quires no ordinary skill or brief experience to make the
proper selection or combination to suit the consumer
under these trying circumstances,

8 INTRODUCTION.

The acquisition of such skill or knowledge, for all
practical purposes, is not, however, quite as difficult as is
supposed by many dealers, it being fairly obtained by
an intelligent study of the leading varieties and grades
most in demand in the country or section of consump-
tion, in addition to a few simple and inexpensive experi-
ments by the dealer in order to familiarize himself with
the leading characters and values of the different varie-
ties, grades and flavors of the Teas best adapted to
each particular class or section of the country in which
he may be doing business. Little is known, compara-
tively, in this country particularly, of the art or principle
of blending or “ mixing” of Teas. The American dealer
and consumer alike being averse to the practice as a
- general rule, regarding it as about on a parity with the
other too numerous forms of adulteration and sophistica-
tion now in vogue, not only in the countries of consump-
tion, but also in those of production. Such objections,
however, are entirely erroneous, as it is an acknowledged
fact that a combination of different varieties of wheat
make better flour, the same being true of coffee and
many other staples of diet and drink, so that the practice
of blending Teas for the consumer, if properly under-
stood and skillfully and judiciously performed, would
prove a more satisfactory one to the consumer, and at
the same time a more profitable one to the dealer. The
object of blending being, not as the Tea-using public
imagines to lower the standard or reduce the cost at
the expense of quality, but to produce a measurably
better Tea and obtain a fuller and heavier liquor in addi-
tion to a much finer and more desirable flavor than that
yielded by any single variety when used alone. A Tea,
in short, giving better satisfaction to the consumer at a
more moderate price, and at the same time allowing a

INTRODUCTION. 9

better margin of profit to the dealer without lowering hus
standard of quality. To illustrate, a dealer may already
be selling a Tea to his customers, possessing a pleasing
and suitable flavor, but be lacking in body or too light in
liquor, whereas by his adding to it a small proportion of
one or two other varieties possessing these requisite
properties the defect is easily and inexpensively
remedied, and a fuller-liquied, heavier-bodied, richer-
flavored infusion is produced; the drawing and drinking
qualities of the Tea being improved all round without
extra cost to the dealer or increase of price to the con-
sumer. It must therefore follow that by the skillful and
judicious mixing or blending of a number of Teas, each
differing in variety or grade, a more uniform, pleasing
and palatable Tea, that is, one richer in liquor, heavier
in body and more aromatic in flavor, can be produced
by this now acknowledged principle at a more moderate
cost to dealer and consumer than can otherwise be
obtained from any single variety or grade of Tea.

The idea of blending Teas originally arose from the
experience incidentally gained by some old and life-
long Tea dealers, that a beverage richer in liquor, more
pleasing in flavor, more satisfactory in price to the con-
sumer and less costly to the dealer, could be produced
from a number of the different varieties or grades when
skillfully amalgamated or judiciously combined than
could otherwise be obtained from any single sort when
used alone. No sooner was this experience confirmed
than the “mixing” or blending of Teas was generally
resorted to by many of those who had the dispensing of
the commodity to the public. But while some dealers
had a marked success in this branch of the Tea busi-
ness from the start, others again who attempted to prac-
tice it failed completely in their efforts to produce any

Io INTRODUCTION.

satisfactory results to themselves or their customers, the
end accomplished being instead of an improvement an
injury and detriment to the quality and value of the Teas
so combined, more often to such an extent that the
single and regular variety of Tea in demand would have
pleased better at less labor, time and cost to the dealer.
The cause of this failure was, however, due entirely and
alone to the want of that necessary training, experience
or intelligent knowledge which would enable the unskilled
blender to understand the peculiar characteristics and
affinities of the different varieties and various grades of
the Teas which are improved by combination, and their
component parts, as well as to avoid those which are
deteriorated by the amalgamation. The knowledge and
skill required for this very particular and precise branch
of the Tea business being only attained in its perfection
by numerous tests and constant experiments, which are
best performed by the admixture of from two to five—
or more in many instances—small samples of Tea diff-
ering, frequently materially, in variety, character and
quality, and alternately changing, altering and substi-
tuting the varieties and proportions of the same until
the dealer has finally succeeded in producing a Tea
unique in character, identified with himself, and differing
in every respect from that of any Tea offered or sold by
his competitors, the liquor, flavor and aroma of which
will prove more pleasing and satisfactory in quality and
price to his patrons, and at a more moderate cost to
himself.
Time and experience have proved beyond question that
skillful and judicious tea blending will be found to amply
repay for all the study, labor and expense bestowed on it
by the dealer, as the chief and only difficulty existing
in the art lies in the fact of first finding a combination

lta aati

INTRODUCTION. ' It

———E—EESSSSSSSSSSSSS——S—S_—_—_—

or combinations that will please the majority of consum-
ers. But it is an eggregious mistake to imagine that
the successful or profitable blending of teas consists
solely in the indiscriminate or injudicious heaping to-
gether carelessly and indifferently of two or more varie-
ties or grades of tea in one homogeneous mass without
the slightest regard to quantity, quality, affinity, affiliation
or assimilation of leaf, liquor, character or flavor of the
component parts. While on the contrary the art or prin-
ciple consists in the proper combining of two or more
different varieties or grades of tea intended to form the
combination on an at least intelligent or judicious, if not
scientific manner, so as to yield a unique or particular
tea, of uniform quality, strength, flavor and pungency, at
a given price, being at the same time pleasing and satis-
factory to the average consumer, and maintaining its
standard of quality at all times and under all circum-
stances.

But while it may be admitted that it is difficult to
master the art of successful tea blending thoroughly
without the serving of an apprenticeship to the business,
and that the combinations that may be found in it are
almost kaleidescopic in their range, still even the veriest
novice need not spoil good tea by injudicious mixing,
as all that is required is a little study and a few simple
rules carefully followed, although these cannot be sub-
stituted entirely for years of practical experience in
such a difficult and at the present time most essential
branch of the tea business, but will nevertheless prevent
any serious error, and at the same time insure a fair
measure of success to the most inexperienced in the art.

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(Chinese Tea Garden.)

PART It.

CLASSIFICATION AND DE-
SCRIPTION OF TEHRAS.

HE Teas of commerce are classified as China, Japan,
India, Ceylon and Java Teas, but are generally
divided into Green and Black Teas, under which

terms they are best known to the public. They are again
sub-divided into numerous varieties and grades, with
names derived from the districts of production or indi-
cative of their age, make or quality, these numerous
applications being almost entirely of Chinese origin.

14 CLASSIFICATION AND DESCRIPTION.

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(China Tea Plant.)

CHINA TEAS

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Are divided into Black and Green, the former comprising
Oolongs, Congous, Souchongs and Scented Teas, the
latter including Imperials, Gunpowders, Hysons, Young
Hysons and Twankay or Hyson-skin Teas.

CLASSIFICATION AND DESCRIPTION. 15

a—Virsts. %&—Seconds. c—Thirds. d—Fourths.
(Black Tea Piant.)

OOLONG ‘TEAS

Are sub-divided into Ankois, Amoys, Foochows, For-
mosas, Saryune and Pekoe-Oolongs, grading from low-
est to highest in the order named.

Ankoi Oolong—Is a doubtful species of the genus tea
and said to be prepared solely from the leaves of a shrub
closely resembling but widely distinct from those of the
true tea plant. The leaf is rough and coarse, reddish-
black in color, indifferently prepared, and ragged in gen-
eral appearance, while the liquor is dark-brown, oily
or earthy in flavor and bitterly astringent to the taste. It
is generally used for mixing with low-grade Amoys, to
which it imparts a wild, rank or weedy flavor, and should
be avoided by the dealer altogether.

Amoy Oolongs—Embrace Kokew, Mohea and Nin-
gyong Oolong teas and are fairly good teas for blending

16 CLASSIFICATION AND DESCRIPTION,

purposes, many of them drawing and drinking exceed-
ingly well inthe cup. The leaf, while large and some-
what coarse in appearance, is well prepared as a rule,
while the liquor is clear, strong and frequently pungent.
The poorer grades, however, possess a wild or herby
flavor, strongly objected to by the majority of tea con-
sumers.

Foochow Oolong—Ranks among the best of
the black teas of China. The leaf of the finer grades
being black and silky in appearance, rich and mellow in
liquor and fragrant in flavor, while the medium and
lower grades are somewhat larger and looser in make
they possess splendid cup qualities, making the most
suitable foundation for all blends in this country, being
useful and serviceable for the purpose.

Formosa Oolong—Is unique in leaf, liquor and
flavor, differing widely in character and flavor from the
former varieties. They possess a rich, fragrant aroma,
the leaf being very pleasing in the hand, evenly curled
and crapy in texture, and impart tone and character to
any combination in which they may be introduced.

Saryune and Pekoe Oolongs— Are very rare sorts
in this market, the latter deriving its trade-name from
being liberally sprinkled with Pekoe-tipped leaves. They
are somewhat large and bold in style, evenly curled and
pleasing in appearance. The infusion being dark brown
in color, heavy and full in body and very fragrant in
flavor.

CONGOU ‘TEAS.

Congou Teas are grown principally in the Bohea hills
in China, and are known to trade in this country as
English Breakfast Teas. They are divided into Kaisow
or Red-leaf and Moning or Black-leaf Teas, and area

CLASSIFICATION AND DESCRIPTION. LY)

distinct variety differing in color, liquor and flavor from
the Oolong sorts.

Kaisow—or Red-leaf Congous, comprise, Chingwos,
Seumoos, Suey-kuts, Saryunes, Sin-chunes, Cheong-soo,
Cheong-lok, So-how and Yung-how. The leaf is reddish-
black in color, well and firmly made; the liquor rich-red
or wine-color, and flavor pungent but pleasing to the
taste. Their special feature is their delicate and to a
high degree fragrant flavor, which they impart to other
Teas in combination, provided the others are not too
strong or coarse.

Moning—or Black-leaf Congous include Ning-chows,
Oonfas, Oonams, Oopacks, Kintucks, Kee-muns, Kiu-
kangs, Panyongs, Paklins and Paklums, and are black in
color, stylish in make; the finer grades being Pekoe-
tipped and flavored. The infusion is also dark-red or
wine-colored, but delicate and aromatic, making very
useful Teas for blending purposes, combining advantage-
ously with any and all the other varieties.

SOUCHONG TEAS

Are among the finest and richest of the Black Tea
sorts of China, but are limited in supply, being chiefly
prepared from the youngest leaves of the earlier pickings.
They are known to trade as Lapsing, Padrae, Pekoe,
Tonquam, Canton and Oolong-Souchongs. The leaf is
long, flat, handsome and “crapy” in texture, finely and
artistically curled, being only lightly fired. They yield
a rich wine-colored liquor, with a flagrant flavor entirely
peculiar to themselves, and described as “tarry” in
trade, which, when not too pronounced, adds rather than
detracts from their value. The product of the later
pickings are of less strength and flavor, but are still
smooth and pleasing in liquor and flavor, making very

18 CLASSIFICATION AND DESCRIPTION.

———

serviceable teas for mixing owing to their general intrinsic
properties.
SCENTED TEAS

Form a special class of the Chinese product, and comprise
Foochow, Canton and Macao Scented Teas. They are
sub-divided into Capers, Pekoes, Pouchongs, Orange,
Flowery and Pouchong Pekoes, and are very fragrant,
being highly scented with the leaves, flowers, blossoms
and roots of other plants, such as that of the Iris, Jessa-
mine, Gardenia, Chloranthus and Oleofragrans. They-are
principally prepared from the largest but most succulent
leaves of the first pickings and cured by a series of brisk
firings and rollings. The dried leaf is finely made, long
and evenly folded, and the infusion is wine-colored,
piquant and aromatic, from which fact consumers not
accustomed to their use erroneously imagine that they
are much stronger and more exciting than the Oolong
and Green Teas sorts, and should be used only very
sparingly in blending.

Caper—Is so termed from its small, round leaf resem-
bling capers, and is prepared from the youngest and ten-
derest leaves of the tea plant. The infusion is ofa rich wine-
color, pungent and aromatic in flavor, forming what is
termed a bouquet.

Pekoe—Signifies in Chinese ‘“ White down,” applied
to the whitish or downy substance at the end of the
leaves. It is usually prepared from the young leaf buds
just expanding, and is a very much overrated variety.

Pouchong—Is a bold, rough-looking leaf, dull black
in color and peculiar in scent, the latter being imparted
to it by the admixture of the seeds of the Chulan flower.

Orange Pekoe—Is a long, flat, even-leaf tea, jet black
in color and containing yellowish, downy tops at the
ends, from which it derives its trade name.

CLASSIFICATION AND DESCRIPTION. 19

_ Flowery Pekoe —Is a smaller but more evenly-folded
leaf, olive-colored with ends ornamented with whitish or
velvety tips, being also very highly scented with the
flowers or blossoms of other plants.

In some of the Chinese districts the scenting material
is added to the tea during the firing process and after-
ward separated by sifting, but is, however, more gener-
ally introduced into the tea after it is prepared and ready
for packing. It is spread over the tip of the tea and
allowed to remain there for at least a day, or until it
becomes strongly impregnated with their moisture, and
then removed, the duration depending in a great measure
on the character of the scent employed.

a—Gunpowder. 4—Young Hyson. c—Imperial. d—Hyson. e—Twankey.

(Green Tea Plant.)

20 CLASSIFICATION AND DESCRIPTION.

GREEN TEAS
Include Moyunes, Hychows, Fychows, Tienkes, Tay-
shings and Pingsueys, district names, and grading in the
order named.
Moyune—Is the most valuable intrinsically and com-
mercially, being far superior to all the others in make
color, draw and drink. The leaf is firmly rolled, natural

green in color and extremely uniform in appearance, —

while the liquor is clear, brisk and pungent in flavor,
forming a splendid variety for blending with any tea.

Hychows—Are much inferior to the former in leaf
and liquor, the infusion, although darker in color, is
lighter in body and devoid of any pronounced flavor.

Fychows—Are generally bold and rough in leaf,
dull-green in color, dark and heavy in liquor and
astringent in flavor, being in the whole a very undesir-
able sort for any purpose.

Tienkes—While long and coarse in make are yet
pleasing to the eye, being chiefly sold in style as they
will not stand the cup test, the infusion being dark,
thick, bitter and frequently smoky in flavor owing to
high firing.

Tayshings—Like Tienkes look well in the hand,
being fairly well-made and stylish-looking, but are of a
leaden-blue color, the result of the facing or coloring
matter used to enhance their appearance, while the liquor
is dark and muddy and the flavor earthy to the taste.

Pingsueys—Are termed by the Chinese Bastard
Tea, being principally prepared from the leaves of some
shrub remotely resembling those of the Tea plant.
While the leaf is very stylish and firmly made it is of
heavy blue color and greasy in appearance owing to the
gypsum used in their preparation and are entirely unfit
for human use,

CLASSIFICATION AND DESCRIPTION, 21

What are known as “Canton” and “Country”
Green Teas are also spurious Teas, the former being
manufactured from spent or exhausted Tea leaves, that
is Tea once used, dried, refired and colored with gypsum
or Prussian blue. The latter being prepared from the
leaves of wild or uncultivated Tea plants.

(Picking Tea in China.)

SUB-VARIE'TIES.

The Green Teas of China are again sub-divided in
Gunpowders, Imperials, Hysons, Young Hysons and
Twankays, terms denoting style of make, age or other
peculiarity, and are too well known to the trade to need
description.

22 CLASSIFICATION AND DESCRIPTION.

Gunpowder—Is termed by the Chinese “ Choo-
Cha” or Pearl tea, from its smail, round or shotty appear-
ance. , It is generally prepared from the smallest and
youngest leaves of the green tea plant, its quality corres-
ponding to the picking and district of growth. The
product of the first crop is sometimes known as “ Pin-
head” from its extremely small, round or globular
appearance.

Imperial—Derives its trade name from being the
style or make of Tea used in the Imperial household
and by the Mandarins or wealthier Chinese. That
exported is prepared from the larger and older leaves of
the respective pickings and rolled in the same manner as
the former, from which fact it is also known as “ Big Gun-
powder” and also as “ Pea-leaf.” But while larger and
bolder in make it possesses much the same drawing and
drinking qualities.

Hyson—lIs known to the Chinese as “He-tsien” or
“Flourishing Spring” from being picked in the full spring-
time, and is large and loosely made, being prepared from
the older leaves of each respective picking. It bears the
same relation to Young Hyson that Imperial does to
Gunpowder and produces the same characteristics, but
in a minor degree.

Young Hyson—lIs a corruption of the Chinese term,
“Yu-tsien,’” or Early Spring, from being gathered in the
early spring-time, and in make the leaves are extremely
small, finely but artistically twisted, almost wirey in tex-
ture, being prepared from the youngest and tenderest
leaves of the tea plant.

Twankay—Or “ Hyson-skin,” is composed chiefly of
the largest and oldest leaves of the foregoing varieties
that cannot, owing to their coarse or broken condition,
be rolled or converted into the former makes. Itisa large,

eS eee ee

CLASSIFICATION AND DESCRIPTION. 23

loose and flat-leaf tea, varying in color, liquor and flavor,
according to the grades from which it is separated.

Considerable mystery and confusion for a long time
existed regarding the species of plant yielding the varie-
ties known as Green and Black teas, many authorities
claiming that the former was produced from the Green
tea plant exclusively, and the latter from the Black tea
plant solely, while again it was held by others that both
varieties were prepared at pleasure from but one and the
same species, the mere difference in color, flavor and
effects being due entirely to a disparity in the soil and
process of curing. But later and more careful investi-
gation disprove these particular opinions, as while it is
now admitted, even by the Chinese themselves, that both
kinds may be produced at will from either or both species
of the tea plant, it is a popular error to imagine that
China produces the two commercial kinds in all districts,
as the preparation of the greater proportion of the
respective varieties is carried on in widely separated
districts of the Empire from corresponding species of
the tea plant, different methods being adopted only in
the process of curing the two kinds from the first stage.
Green teas are prepared and distinguished from Black
in such instances by the fact that the former are not
fermented as long or fired as high in the process of
rolling as the latter. It was also a commonly-received
opinion at one time that the distinctive color of Green
teas was imparted to them by being cured and fired in
Copper pans. For this belief, however, there is not the
slightest foundation in fact, as copper pans are never
used for the purpose of firing tea, repeated experiments
and unerring tests having been frequently made by com-
petent experts, but not even in a single instance has any
trace of that metal been found in them.

24 CLASSIFICATION AND DESCRIPTION.

(Japan Tea Plant.)

JAPAN TEAS.

In color, flavor and character, Japan Teas are totally
distinct from any and all other varieties of Tea known to |
commerce. They are divided into Panfired, Sundried
and Basketfired Teas and Nibs, but are frequently con-
verted into Oolongs, Pekoes, Congous, Imperials, Gun-
powder and Young Hyson makes,

CLASSIFICATION AND DESCRIPTION. 25

GN HGHLLCEDN FN
nyu \
‘ol GA
Sa

(Curing Tea.)

Panfired Japan—Is a medium-sized green-leaf Tea,
well-curled and presenting an unbroken appearance. It
yields a bright clear liquor which remains unchanged in
color until quite cold, and possesses a flavor delicate but
fragrant in odor, ‘The medium grades, however, are
rougher in make, darker in liquor and duller in flavor,
while the commoner ones are course and unsightly in
style, varying in color and somewhat “brassy” or
metallic in flavor.

Sundried Japan—Derive their trade-name from
being dried in the sun before firing, in order to fix their
color more permanently. The leaf is of an olive-green
color, small and compactly curled, and the liquor what

26 CLASSIFICATION AND DESCRIPTION.

is known as “toasty” in flavor owing to their thorough
fermentation before firing. The lower grade range from
a yellowish to a dull-green in color, indifferently made
and often “ fishy” in taste from the use of fish manure in 7
cultivating.

Basketfired Japan—lIs so called from being cured
in baskets over a slow fire. The finer grades are long,
dark and exceedingly well twisted or curled, clear and |
bright in the infusion and mellow or “ mealy” in flavor,
the latter quality making them a very valuable sort for
blending with Oolong in the proportions of one part to —
four of Oolong, or almost any variety into which they
are introduced.

ele

f
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4

\
ry
¥y

(Firing Tea.)

CLASSIFICATION AND DESCRIPTION. 27

Japan Nibs—Are composed of the largest and oldest
eaves of the foregoing sorts, and bear the same relation
to Japan Teas that Twankay does to Green Teas. In
the cheaper and lower-grade blends they make an ex-
cellent addition by imparting strength and fullness to the
combination, particularly when separated from the higher
srades of Japan Teas.

(Rolling and Curling.)

Japan Oolongs—Pekoes, Congous, Imperials, Gun-
powder and Hysons differ only from the regular Japan
Teas in-make, and from being prepared from the same
leaf they naturally possess the same general character-
istics and cup qualities, but are not produced in any
appreciable quantities.

28 CLASSIFICATION AND DESCRIPTION.

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(Sorting Tea.)

CLASSIFICATION AND DESCRIPTION. 29

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: (india and Ceylon Tea Plant.)

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INDIA THAS.

Principally comprise Assams, Cachars, Darjeelings,
Dooars, Deradoons, Kumaons and Chittagongs, ranking
n quality in the order named, and are converted into
Pekoes, Souchongs, Congous and Pekoe-Souchongs
‘esembling most the Congou sorts of China in make,
style, color and general appearance, but many of them
yeing produced from a combination of the China and
(india Tea plants are hybrid in character, differing widely

30 CLASSIFICATION AND DESCRIPTION.

from their originals. In make and style they are i
general longer and narrower in leaf, better curled and}
more shapely in form than the corresponding Chinese]|
varieties, but contain a much greater excess of tannin
which accounts for their superior strength or rather
rankness in the infused state.

WIV

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(india Tea Plantation.)

Assams—Are greyish-black in color, the dried leaf?
of the finer grades being pekoe-tipped and flavored. The}j
liquor is unusually strong and pungent in addition toy
being thick and heavy in the cup, but are very useful for |
forming the base or foundation of all blends among;
Irish, English or Scotch Tea consumers. |

Cachars—Are blacker in color, but not as well made
or handsome in appearance. The infusion, however, is}
softer and mellower, being occasionally what is knownas'
“fruity” in flavor. i;

Darjeeling—Is a hybrid variety, produced from a|
cross between the China and India Tea plants and par-\|
takes somewhat of the characteristics of both. But,,

CLASSIFICATION AND DESCRIPTION. 31

nade, and while round and full in body is not as pungent
or flavory in the infusion.

- Dooars—Approximate more to Cachars in style,
olor and general appearance, and are strong, rough
nd coarse in liquor, but pungent and pleasing in flavor,
eing a serviceable Tea for blending, as it imparts tone
nd character to any combination in it which it may be
ised,

Deradoon—Is a _ high-fired Tea, loosely made and
leteriorating rapidly, becoming sour or rancid on ex-
yosure to the atmosphere in a very short time. The
iquor is frequently “earthy” in taste and somewhat
nalogous to that of Ankoi Oolong, for which reasons
hey are not much sought after.

-Kumaon—Is generally converted into Gunpowder,
mperial and Hyson Teas, all being prepared from the
me leaf, the chief and only difference lying in their
aake and color, as they still retain all their Indian
haracteristics of liquor and flavor.

Chittagong—Is thick, heavy and strong in the cup,
d what is termed “ nutty” in flavor and are considered
ood, useful Teas for blending purposes from their great
trength and positive character.

India Teas in general possess a sharp acid taste not to
e found in any of the foregoing varieties, and a distinct
ut peculiar flavor, rarely liked by American Tea consum-
irs, except when largely tempered with the softerand more
hellow liquored Teas of China. In order to neutralize or
ffset this disagreeable peculiarity, it is at all times neces-
ury to use only the best of the India grades in blending.
nother very disagreeable feature of India Teas is that of
he formation of an oily or gummy film which settles on
p of the liquor after infusion. The loss of flavor and

32 CLASSIFICATION AND DESCRIPTION.

rapid decay in exposure is also greater in India Teas than
in most other varieties. The grades most easily affected
in this manner being the two highly-fired, light-liquored
and open-leaf makes.

(Ceylon Tea Plantation.)

ans

i an >
Wath i al

ih al A nS
VE lil i" if i

a

CLASSIFICATION AND DESCRIPTION. 33

CEHYLON TEAS.
Ceylon Teas—Are comparatively new Teas to com-

' merce, and are known to trade as Matagalas, Mandulsu-

mas, Rakuwanas, Kanda-loyas, Kandapole and Soocan-
duris, but as with India Teas they are chiefly converted
into silver and golden Pekoe, Congous, Souchongs and
Pekoe-Souchongs. Their leaf, liquor and flavor like their
India prototypes varies greatly in style and quality,
according to the elevation at which they are grown,
their uniformity also varying from year to year as in the
India districts.

Silver Pekoe—Is a long, whitish, downey-leaf Tea,
almost “satiny” in texture, with silvery tips at the ends.
The liquor is dark, reddish in color, but bright and
sparkling in the cup, delicate and fragrant in flavor for
this variety but very much overrated in value.

Golden Pekoe—Is a much smaller leaf Tea, darker
in color and somewhat silky in texture and liberally
sprinkled with rich, yellow or orange tips while the
inferior grades are much darker and heavier in body, but
fresh, fragrant and greatly appreciated by consumers
who prefer this variety.

Pekoe-Souchong—lIs chiefly composed of the Pekoe
leaves that are devoid of tips and Souchong containing
some tipped leaves, but as a general rule it is an unas-
sorted Tea prepared from the larger and coarser leaves
that will not pass through the sieves. It is medium in
size and choppy in leaf, but ripe and rich in liquor, fairly
brisk and malty in flavor.

CHYLON CONGOUS AND
SOUCHONGS.

Closely resemble the corresponding India kinds in
make, color, liquor and flavor, and make excellent Teas

34 CLASSIFICATION AND DESCRIPTION.

for combining in blending, but like the India sorts will
not keep as long or as well as the China or Japan kinds,
becoming sour and rancid in a few months, defects
attributed to the rapid artificial methods of curing
practiced in these countries.

(Ceylon Tea Factory.)

:

CLASSIFICATION AND DESCRIPTION. 35

Broken Leaf—India and Ceylon Broken-leaf Teas
are composed of the old, broken and mutilated leaves
of the other sorts which are separated in sifting, and
bear the same relation to these varieties that Twankay
does to China Green Teas and Nibs to the Japan sorts.
They vary in color from brown to black, their strength
being seldom great, though the flavor of the finer grades
is in general good, drawing and drinking in proportion
to the grades from which they are separated, while that
of the commoner kinds is poor, thin and coarse in liquor
and flavor.

a—Pekoe. 4—Souchong. e—Congou. d—Souchong-Congou.
(Java Tea Plant.)

36 CLASSIFICATION AND DESCRIPTION.

JAVA TEAS.

Are known to commerce as Preangers, Krawangs,
Cheribons, Bagelens and Banjcemas Teas, and are classi-
fied as Pekoes, Congous, Oolongs and Souchongs, after
the manner of India and Ceylon Teas. The leaves of the
different kinds are sorted during the picking, and graded
according to size, the smallest being converted into
Pekoe, the medium into Souchong, and the largest into
Oolongs and Congous.

Java Teas in general are particularly small in leaf, dull-
black in color, but rather handsome in general appear-
ance, and approximating more to the India variety in
style, color and character, but do not keep as well, be-
coming rank and sour when allowed to lay too long.
The liquor of Java Teas is also deficient in strength, body
and flavor, being almost totally devoid of any distinctive
aroma or pronounced fragrance, defects attributable
mainly to their faulty and imperfect methods of curing
and preparing, as well as to the fact that the leaves are
picked from the plants all the year round, and allowed
no time for rest or recuperation, and making very
indifferent Teas for blending or using alone.

The last three varieties are generally converted in
Congous and Souchongs, ranking with and approximat-
ing to Java Teas in style, color and character.

African Teas—Are large, black and coarse in leaf
and liquor, being very bitter and astringent in flavor.
They make poor Teas for blending purposes.

Fiji Teas—Like African are coarse in leaf, blackish
in liquor and almost rank in flavor.

Singapore Tea—Is also a very inferior grade for
blending, being too pronounced in character for the
purpose.

|

PAR’ iit.

a

ART OF TESTING AND
SELECTING TEHREAS.

HE Teas of commerce possess two values—an
intrinsic or real value, and a commercial or
market value—the former constituting its

quality, strength and flavor, the latter being more often
based on its style or appearance, supply and fluctuations
in price, so that in their selection for commercial pur-
: poses four leading features are to be considered before
: purchasing by the dealer, viz.: Leaf, Liquor, Character
_ and Flavor, the drawing and drinking qualities of a Tea
in the cup being paramount to its style or appearance in
the hand, as many Teas though course or rough-looking
in “make” or appearance draw and drink exceedingly
well in the infusion.

There are five principal methods of testing and select-
ing Teas for commercial use, and which may be summed
up in the following sequence. First by

STYLE OR APPEARANCE.

A good Tea may be readily recognized by its style or
appearance in the hand, which though not invariably an
indication of its merit in the cup has considerable to do
with its quality and value, choice Teas of all kinds being
handsomely made and pleasing to the eye. They are
compactly if not artistically curled or rolled according to
their make, whether Green or Black, and all Teas are

38 ART OF TESTING AND SELECTING TEAS.

fine in proportion to their youth and tenderness, the
ripest and juciest curling up tightest and retaining their
form longest, that is the younger and fresher the leaves ©
the richer and more succulent the Tea. While old and
inferior Teas on the other hand are large, rough and
loosely made in proportion to their age, quality and —
period of picking, as being partially or totally devoid of
sap they are correspondingly coarse, astringent or en- |
tirely flavorless in the infused state. By

REELING OR PRESSING.

Judging a sample of Tea by feeling or pressing in the —
hand is more applicable to the curled, twisted or Black
Tea sorts than to the rolled or Green Tea kinds. For
instance, if the leaves of the former make so tested be
really choice, they will be found smooth, crisp and elastic
in the hand and capable of resisting a gentle but firm
pressure without breaking. But if the leaves be old and
sapless they will be found tough and chaffy to the touch,
very brittle, breaking easily and crumbling under the same
conditions.

SMELLING OR INHALING.

By blowing or breathing heavily upon a sample of Tea
and then quickly smelling or inhaling the odor omitted
from it,a very fair estimate of its general character may
be formed by the dealer. To judge correctly by this
method, however, an acquaintance with the distinctive
flavors and peculiarities will be necessary, this knowledge
being best acquired by the dealer adopting a type or
standard sample of the Teas he is using or wants to
match. By

MASTICATING OR CHEWING.

An approximate estimate of a Tea may also be formed

by chewing or masticating the leaves, a good tea being

ART OF TESTING AND SELECTING TEAS. 39

easily recognized by the rapid manner in which the leaves
are dissolved on slight mastication. If the Tea be young
and the leaves tender, they become quickly reduced toa
“pasty consistency and very juicy, but if old and inferior
they willbe found difficult to chew, tough, and yielding
little or no sap, according to its age and inferiority.
INFUSING OR DRAWING

Is, after all is said, the most satisfactory and reliable
method of testing or appraising a Tea at its true value
this being the manner adopted by all expert dealers and
brokers in Tea. For this method a number of small
cups, scales and a half-dime weight are necessary, to-
gether with a clean kettle of freshly distilled or filtered
water, briskly boiling, and poured on the leaves, after
which they are allowed to infuse from three to five min-
utes before smelling and tasting. The water used must
in all cases be as soft and pure as can be obtained, boiled
briskly and used only at the boiling point, that is, it must
boil, but not overboil, as if allowed to do so for even a
few minutes, it will not extract in its entirety the full
strength or flavor of the Tea.

As the value of a Tea commercially depends princi-
pally upon the weight and flavor of the infusion as well
as in the aroma imparted to it by the volatile oil which
it contains, so the intrinsic value of a Tea is based prin-
cipally on the amount of extract which it yields on infu-
sion in addition to the quantity of the thiene and tannin
contained therein. Again, the taste for a particular
variety of Tea being an acquired and not a natural one,
it follows that persons not accustomed to a certain variety
or flavor in Tea want that particular kind and will not be
satisfied with any other even if better or higher-priced.
This fact being admitted it becomes essential to the suc-
cess of the Tea dealer to study and learn the tastes and

40 ART OF TESTING AND SELECTING TEAS.

preferences of his patrons in order to cater satisfactorily ©
to them. To illustrate he may be selling his trade a
heavy-bodied Amoy Oolong or dark-leaved Foochow
and suddenly change off to a fine Formosa or Congou.
In such a case his customers will be very apt to find
fault with the latter, no matter how fine they may be. It
therefore becomes essential to the success of the dealer
to pay particular attention to the quality and standard of
the Teas he is purchasing, as there is no article which he
handles that will attract trade or retain it longer than a
good Tea at a legitimate price, such a Tea creating
more comment ina district than any other article used
at table and to such an extent that if the customers once
loose confidence in either the ability or honesty of the —
dealer in supplying them they will be repelled rather
than attracted, it being next to impossible to draw them
back again once they leave through any mistake of the
dealer in his selection. Poor or badly selected Teas will
drive more customers away from a store in a week than
can be made in a year, so that it will not pay the dealer
to make any serious error in the selection of his Teas, |
such mistake proving fatal to the holding or increasing of -
his Tea trade as well as for other articles. It is therefore
much better and more profitable in the end to handle ~
only good Teas on fair and legitimate margin than to sell _
poor inferior and unsatisfactory Teas at a larger margin
of profit.

A dealer with any ambition to increase or even retain
his Tea trade should no more attempt to handle poor,
inferior, dusty, musty or damaged Teas than a butcher
has to sell tainted meats or a baker to give his customers
sour bread. The offense may not at first seem as objection-
able, but the final verdict of his customers will be the
same in each case, and the positive manner in which |

ART OF TESTING AND SELECTING TEAS. 4I

they will eventually manifest their opinion will be to quit
dealing with him altogether. Good, clean, pure and
sweet-drawing Teas can always be purchased at a few
_ cents per pound above the price of the dusty, musty,
mousey, woody, herby, grassy, smoky, or sour and trashy
Teas now flooding the market. So that by the mistaken
policy of trying to save a few cents per pound extra the
seed is sown for the final ruin of the dealer himself in
addition to casting discredit on the use of Tea as an
article of diet. While on the other hand, if the dealer
makes a small but necessary sacrifice for the sake of
future gain and reputation by selling only Tea that is
Tea, and content himself with a fair but legitimate profit,
satisfaction will be given to his customers, his Tea trade
fostered and extended, and the consumption of this most
important food auxiliary increased throughout the country.

GRADING OF ‘TEAS.

Black Teas, such as Oolongs and Congous, are graded
| as “ Firsts,” “Seconds,” “Thirds,” “ Fourths ” and some
times “Fifths,” denoting the respective pickings and
grading in the order named. They are usually divided
into “ chops ’’—quantities bearing the brand or “ chop-
mark” of the grower or packer—and which are again
| sub-divided into “ Lines,” ‘“ Marks” and ‘ Numbers,”
| the latter rarely exceeding fifty packages. The term
“chop” meaning in Chinese “contract,” which in the
_ Tea trade is applied to a quantity of Tea frequently com-
_ posed of the product of different gardens or districts
ani afterwards mixed together and made uniform before
| packing and forwarding to the shipping ports.

Green Teas are graded as Nos. I, 2, 3 and 4, the
_ former being applied to the choicest kinds, No. 2 to
choice, No. 3 to medium, and 4 to the common grades,

¢

42 ART OF TESTING AND SELECTING TEAS.

el

Japan Teas are usually graded as “Common,”
“Choice,” “ Extra Choice” and “ Choicest.”

India and Ceylon Teas are divided into “Breaks,”
each separate picking being known in trade as a “flush” —
and graded accordingly. Nearly all the India and Ceylon
Teas are first “‘ bulked; ” that is, the whole is run together
in one heap and thoroughly mixed before being put up
in the chests, this process having the advantage of
insuring the regularity of the break or chop. The selec-
tion of India and Ceylon Teas for blending purposes is
much more difficult than that of China and Japan Teas,
greater care being required to avoid Teas that will not
keep well as well as those which may possess any other —
objectionable peculiarity. The loss of strength and flavor
is also much greater in some grades than in others, the
kinds most affected being the too highly-fired Teas, the
light-flavored Teas and those that possess a loose, rough
or open leaf.

WHEN TO BUY ‘TEAS.

The Tea market fluctuating considerably, sometimes
it will be necessary for the dealer to learn to under-
stand something of the law of supply and demand,
which, to a great extent, affects the fluctuations of the
Tea market, before he can be sure of making desirable
purchases. The dealer in Tea who not only understands
the article he is dealing in, but whose knowledge and
judgment enable him, in addition, to make his purchases
about the proper time, possesses many advantages over ~
his competitors, the value-of which cannot be overesti-
mated. For instance, each season, on the arrival of the
first steamers from China and Japan, high prices rule for
the earliest pickings, and if the market be bare of chance
lots, these full prices are continued for some time there-
after. Then follows a dull, drooping market, from which

ART OF TESTING AND SELECTING TEAS. 43

the dealer derives no satisfaction, but should the demand
at first be high and the stocks large, through dealers de-
clining to purchase at full figures, prices rapidly decline
to a more reasonable level, after ‘which they then con-
tinue comparatively steady for the balance of the year,
unless some outside causes should arise to create an
advance. For these reasons dealers would do well to
take advantage of the fine selections of Teas that arrive
during July, August and September from China and
Japan. Inthe purchase of India and Ceylon Teas it
will also be found necessary to watch the new arrivals
closely, as, after the heavy receipts during October and
November, the market is nearly always easier, but when
the arrivals are light the market is much higher. These
facts are worth the special attention of dealers, as India
and Ceylon Teas, although until quite recently com-
paratively unknown, now form some of the principal
kinds for blending purposes.

With the great reduction in the importation prices and
the keener competition among dealers, the retail prices
of Tea have been brought down to a very low figure,
and as dealers generally have educated the public to the
the purchase of poor and trashy Teas at low prices, it is
not probable that the retail prices will ever again reach
any higher figures, unless war or other similar cause
should lead to a duty being placed upon the commodity.
Yet notwithstanding these unprecedented low prices, the
per capita consumption of Tea is comparatively very
small in this country at the present time. One of the
chief causes of this sma]l consumption is directly trace-
able to the custom now prevalent among retail dealers
of charging exorbitant profits on inferior Teas in order

_ to make up for losses sustained on other goods, together

with the forcing of poor Teas on their customers. These

44 ART OF TESTING AND SELECTING TEAS.

unwise and impolitic practices might be overlooked were
it not for the greater mistake made of sacrificing quality
to profit, which in an article of daily and almost universal
use like Tea, is an important consideration, so that by
rectifying this error and giving more attention to the
careful selection of his Teas by the dealer, there is no
valid reason why the consumption of the article could
not be at least doubled in a short time in this country.

PAR’ Iv.

ADULTHRATION AND
DHTECTION.

HE Teas of commerce are subject to three princi-
(b pal forms of adulteration, viz.: Facing or coloring
with deleterious compounds in order to enhance
their appearance, mixing with spurious and spent or
once used leaves, with the object of increasing their bulk,
and sanding or adulterating with mineral matter to add
to their weight. But it is against the two first most
commonly dangerous forms of adulteration that the
principal efforts of dealers and Tea inspectors should
more particularly be directed, the latter having received
some attention from analysts and chemists, but not to
that extent which the importance of the subject merits.
Of the various forms of adulteration practiced in
China and Japan, the facing or artificial coloring of low-
grade Green Teas is perhaps the most prevalent and
glaring, the material used for the purpose being usually
composed of Prussian blue, China clay, gypsum, tur-
meric and indigo.

The process of coloring Green Teas is performed by
placing a portion of the Prussian blue ina large bowl
and crushing it into’a fine powder, a small quantity of
gypsum is then added, and the two substances ground
and mixed together in the proportions of one part blue
to four parts of the gypsum, both making in combination

46 ADULTERATION AND DETECTION.

a light blue preparation, in which state it is applied to the
leaves during the last process of firing. One ounce of
this coloring matter will face or color from fifteen to
twenty pounds of Tea leaves, imparting to thema dull
leaden-blue color and a greasy appearance readily de-
tected in the hand.

When Green or Japan Teas are heavily coated in this
manner it may be readily recognized by their heavy leaden-
blue colorand oily or greasy appearance in the hand; or,
better still, by placing a small sample of the leaves on a
piece of glass and allowing them to rest there for some
minutes, then on removing them the coloring matter, if
any, will be found adhering to the glass, and its nature,
whether Prussian blue, indigo or soapstone, detected by
the aid of a small microscope. But when only lightly
colored the best method is to put the leaves in a cup or
glass and pour boiling water on them, stirring them up
well meantime and then straining the infusion through
a thin muslin cloth, and the coloring matter will be
found deposited in the cloth or forming a sediment at
the bottom or sides of the vessel into which they are
strained.

What are known to trade as “ Made Teas,” that is,
Teas artificially manufactured from leaves onced used, or
tea dust, and a preparation of gum or glue to hold them
together, and then colored and glazed to give them a
pleasing appearance to the eye, are best detected by
crushing the so-called leaves between the fingers or
hands upon which they leave a yellowish stain, greasy
in nature if spurious leaves. Or again, by pulverizing a
small quantity of the alleged Tea leaves, and putting
them in a cup or glass and pouring on boiling water,
they will immediately begin to disintegrate and form a
thick, gluey deposit at the bottom of the vessel, pasty in

ADULTERATION AND DETECTION. 47

nature, the coloring matter adhering to the bottom or
sides of the cup or glass.

Another form of adulteration practiced principally in
China is the admixture of spurious or foreign leaves
obtained from other plants, such as the willow, plum, ash,
and what is known in trade as Ankoi Tea. Millions of
pounds of such spurious Tea leaves are annually picked,
cured and colored in the same manner as Tea in some of
the Chinese Tea districts, and used for the purpose of
increasing the bulk and decreasing the cost of genuine
Teas, this form of adulteration, however, being only
trivial when compared with the former one. Such spuri-
ous or foreign leaves in a Tea are best detected by their
botanical character, that is, by the absence of the special
structural marks, which distinguish the genuine Tea
leaf from that of the leaves from all other plants in the
vegetable kingdom, for while it is admitted that the Tea
leaf bears a strong resemblance to those of the willow, plum
and ash, it varies materially, however, in size, form and
structure from them, the border of the true Tea leaf being
more regularly serrated, the serrations stopping just
short of the stalk, and the venations are very character-
istic in the genuine Tea leaf, the veins running out from
the mid-rib almost parallel with each other, but altering
their course before the border of the leaf is reached and
turning so as to leave a bare space just under it. So that
in making an examination of a sample of Tea for the pur-

pose of ascertaining whether these distinctive charac-

teristics are present in the leaves, it will be found best to
pour boiling water on to soften and uncurl them, and
spread them out more easily on the glass as per the fol-
lowing diagrams :—

ADULTERATION AND DETECTION.

SS ~
(True Chinese Tea-Leaf.)

(True India Tea-Leaf.)

ADULTERATION AND DETECTION. 49

But in order to better detect the presence of spurious
leaves in Tea, a better knowledge of the botanical forma-
tion of the true Tea leaf will be requisite, as Tea leaves
in general bear a very strong resemblance to those of
the willow, plum and ash, but vary widely in size and
texture, being much smaller and more deeply serrated.

When infused and unfolded, the true or genuine Tea
leaf is of a lighter-green color, the looping of the prin-
cipal veinings being also very characteristic, while the
spurious leaves are of a dark greenish-yellow color and
very irregular in form when examined under the same
conditions.

Sand and other mineral substances, such as iron and
steel filings, are also frequently introduced into Tea
with the object of adding to its weight, and are easiest
detected by powdering a small quantity of the leaves and
spreading the powder out on a piece of glass and then
applying an ordinary magnet to the dust, so that if a
quantity of the particles gravitate and adhere to the
magnet the Tea is undoubtedly adulterated in this form.

All adulterations and fabrications in general, however,
may be best detected by the following simple but effect-
ual method: By putting a small sample of the Tea
leaves in a wine-glass or thin goblet and pouring in
clear cold water on them, and then stirring up or shaking
well for a few minutes so that the Tea, if pure, will only
slightly color the water, but if adulterated in any forma
dark, muddy-looking liquor is quickly yielded, which, if
next boiled and allowed to stand until cold, will, if
spurious leaves are contained, become very bitter to the
taste and almost transparent as it cools, while if the
sample is composed of pure Tea only, it will be dark in
color and pleasing in flavor under the same conditions.

PAR’T WV.

ART OF BLENDING TEHEAS.

successful and profitable Tea blending should be

to obtain in a consolidated form what is known
as harmony of combination, that is, strength, pungency,
flavor and piquancy in the infusion, and at the same
time to accomplish this result with the smallest possible
outlay. In order to secure this end three important
rules must be carefully followed: (1.) To learn the taste
of the consumer. (2.) To ascertain what Teas will com-
bine best to suit this taste, and (3.) To find out to what
extent the component parts of a once-adopted and satis-
factory blend may be varied in case of any difficulty to
secure the same kind or grade of Teas for future use.
These essential objects can be best attained only by the
droper selecting, weighing and arranging of the propor-
onate qualities and quantities of the different varieties
ind grades of Tea in such a manner as to secure the
est results with as little variation as possible, so that
defore proceeding to produce a specific blend or combi-
iation the dealer must consider well the descriptions of
fea that will amalgamate most satisfactorily as well as
hose that will not unite harmoniously, as Teas that are
tot improved by combination are certain to be deteriorated
n blending.

(Ds primary object and fundamental principle of

52 ART OF BLENDING TEAS.

The whole art in successful Tea blending being to
combine body and pungency with some particular and
distinct flavor in one in order to please a majority of that
portion of the public for whom the Tea is specially pre-
pared, and at the same time to arrange its constituent
parts in such a manner that this most desirable result
may be accomplished at a moderate cost to the dealer
than that of any single higher-priced variety, and again
to learn how far the component parts may be varied
without seriously affecting its regularity, so that advantage
may be taken of the cheapness of any necessary variety
or grade in market during the season. But it must be
understood at the outset that all combinations of Tea, as a
rule, must depend upon the general character, grade
and flavor of the Tea most in demand in the particular
section or district for which they are intended that
special variety or grade forming the base or foundation
of the blends prepared for it; that is, it must dominate
the combinations. As, for instance, where Oolongs are
most in demand the blend must consist of from one-hal
to two-thirds of that variety, and so on with Congous,
Japans, India and Ceylon Teas, as the case may be.

Uniformity of quality and flavor in Tea can only be
secured by intelligent and skillful blending, so that the
advantages to be gained by the mixing of several varie-
ties and grades of Tea together is so apparent that i
needs no arguments to sustain them. But as only the
most expensive Teas possess in any marked degree the
best all-round qualities which go to make a thoroughl
satisfactory beverage when used alone, it is only by in-
telligent blending that this most desirable result can be
obtained at a moderate cost to the dealer. Again it is

ART OF BLENDING TEAS. 53

the dealer who understands the art of blending his Teas
successfully who will invariably lead his competitors in
the Tea-trade.

The taste for any particular-flavored Tea being an
acquired and not a natural one, it necessarily follows
that those consumers who have been accustomed to a
certain flavor invariably want that particular flavor again,
and so will be displeased with any other Tea that does
not possess it, although it may be much higher priced
and better in every way. Users of wine and other bev-
erages have their likes and dislikes, one preferring a light
or mild and another a strong or bitter taste, and so it is
with most Tea drinkers when once they have acquired a
preference for some particular-flavored Tea. This being
a well-established fact among the Tea trade, it becomes
essential for the successful Tea blender to study and
learn what particular variety, grade or flavor of Tea his
patrons have been accustomed to before attempting to
cater to it, as not only is there a more divergence in the

taste for Teas in the different parts of the country, but in
cities, towns and even in localities the specific flavors in
demand are so numerous and various that most of the
leading Tea dealers have been enabled to mark out a dis-
tinct trade for themselves. In large cities this is a very
wise and desirable policy to pursue, providing the blend
or blends adopted and found satisfactory are kept uni-
form and regular thereafter, as it secures the return again
and again of the same customer to the dealer, and thus
keeps his Tea business not only steady but progressive.
‘Even away from the large cities it is well to bear the
importance of this policy in mind, but while at the begin-
ning it may be found more advisable to keep fairly close
to the established taste of the town or locality, a gradual

54 ART OF BLENDING TEAS.

change by the introduction of some special combination
may be found the best course to pursue.

With regard to the best Teas for blending purposes,
before proceeding to the study or preparation of any
specific formulas, it will be well for the dealer to consider
the varieties and grades of Tea that will not blend satis-
factorily as well as those that will assimilate successfully
with each other. In this case it is much easier to de-
scribe the negative side first, as Teas that will not be
improved are certain to be injured by blending. One
of the best rules to act upon as a guide to successful
Tea blending is not to allow unclean or damaged Teas
—even in the smallest quantities—to be introduced into
any blend. This rule should be as ridgidly adhered
to in the common or low-priced blends as in the choice
or high-grade ones, because never for a moment should
it be forgotten by the dealer that if not improved Teas
are certain to be deteriorated by blending, particularly
by the introduction of inferior Teas. For this reason it
may be well for him to consider the grade of Tea that
will combine satisfactorily as well as that will not as-
similate successfully with each other, as even though all
the other Teas composing a blend be well selected and
well arranged, the presence of a single damaged or in-
ferior Tea will be found to taste through it.

All Ankois and Amoy Oolongs described by the trade
as “herby” or ‘“ weedy,” and sometimes as “ woody”
Teas, should be rejected altogether, as should ever so
small a quantity of these weedy Ankois be introduced

into a blend the entire combination will be irretrievably |

) 66

spoiled. All “dusty,” “musty,” “stemmy,” tainted or

ART OF BLENDING TEAS. 55

otherwise damaged Foochow and Formosa Oolongs
should also be avoided by the successful Tea-blender,
as they will be certain to permeate and destroy any
combination into which they are introduced, no matter
how small the quantity. And all “ musty,” “mousey,”
“minty,” and “stemmy ” Congou and Souchong Teas,
as well as all artificially-made and spurious Scented
Teas, must also be shunned.

All Pingsuey, Canton, artificially-colored, and what
are known in trade as Country Green Teas, should be
tabooed altogether, as they invariably detract from any
olend in which they may be used. If cheap Green Teas
must be had for blending, the surest policy is to select a
‘rue Moyune Hyson or Twankay of low grade for the
ourpose, as the commonest kinds of the latter will give
etter satisfaction in any combination of Teas than the
nest of the former sorts. And all artificially-colored
apan Teas, as well as all those of a “fishy,” “brassy ”
r metallic flavor must be avoided in blending, as they,
oo, destroy the good qualities of the finer Teas forming
e blend. And all old, sour or otherwise tainted India,
eylon and Java Teas in particular, should not, under any
ircumstances, be handled by the would-be successful Tea
lender, as there is neither profit in them for the dealer
r satisfaction to the consumer. In brief, select only
ood, clean sweet-drawing Teas for all blending purposes,
s it pays best in the end.

The chief characteristics which distinguish fine Teas
lay be summed up in the following sequence, viz. :
lhoice Amoy Oolongs are “ full-bodied and toasty” in
avor. Foochows are “rich and mellow.” Formosas

56 ART OF BLENDING TEAS.

are “fragrant and aromatic.” Fine Green Teas are:
“sparkling and pungent in liquor,’ while Congous are:
“fruity ” in flavor and Souchongs are slightly “ tarry.”

Choice Japans of all makes are light in draw and what is ;
known as “ mealy ” in flavor, while Indias are what is;
known as “ malty” and Ceylons “toasty.” Scented Teas;
are “piquant” and possess what is technically termed a
“bouquet,” but all Java Teas usually turn sour or rancid!
inavery brief time after being once opened and exposed!
to the atmosphere.

BLACK TEA BLENDS.

Formula No. 1.
For a low-priced Tea suitable for restaurant and gen--
eral trade where a cheap, heavy-bodied and _ strong--

flavored liquor is the main consideration :—
Parts. Varieties. Price.
Be elas an inka) sate Ning-chow Comngou.. 2 .o...42.cseeuee @ .14
MOOS LMS Amoy Qolong...7122) 7227 @ 12
AN EPaAge COSt s,s uea «is eaein.snie ele Cee 13 J

In the Oolong, which forms the base of this blend, an
little coarseness may be tolerated, but “herby” and:
‘““weedy” Teas must be avoided, as what pungency iss
required is supplied by the Congou, which must, how-:
ever, be free from any suspicion of oldness or staleness,)
and if not sufficiently heavy, the addition of one part q
Broken-leaf Assam will supply this defect.

No. 2.
Another low-priced blend is composed as follows :—
Parts. Varieties. Price.
Bs RG aae y s Oonfa, Congou: sj: .¢is's.0.<)2.. fae @ .20
AES OUT SAS Mohea Oolong..:....'.'.:.,< sie sacle @ .16

Average costys.bsi6 s facut» cntth- ee eee 16%

ART OF BLENDING TEAS. 57

No. 3.

For a low-priced to a fair grade Tea-blend the following
combination has been found satisfactory in a mining or
manufacturing district, where a full, heavy, substantial
Tea is required :—

Parts. Varieties. Price.
eee Moning XCOn OU. «2 aic\a\\e's- = or telane « <are @ .20
oe nn PRIOY: CIOLOW OG cS nic She ais wie) Baise o's (@, .20
od ea Hapchow "Oolong... ./cc abies ee « @ .20

EVIE LAZO MCOSE AM garni aie = kicchciererainvs) star acaouerstn .20

This combination yields a dark-colored, heavy-bodied,
“ srippy ” beverage, one that will stand a second drawing
and still be strong and flavory.

No. 4.
Intended for same class of trade if former should not
adequately please :—

Parts. Varieties. Price.
SCs Poochow, Oolong. «:\.\ jcc aoe eats @ .18

D4 (eA ee Se Re iWalsOwW; CONGOUS) oi s's sachs c= steins oF e2o
196 Fs Pa Re ae Ning=yone Ooloney ss. sen. ss. svelte @ .16
J VEER NECEUB AGS Be DOMAIGGS Sigcaciee Regen: .I9

The Ning-yong in this combination should be clean
and as sweet-drawing as can be had for the price, and
the Congou as high-toasted as possible. If not suffi-
ciently heavy or pungent, the addition of one pound
Broken-leaf Assam will improve it in this respect won-
derfully.

No. 5.

For a fair to medium blend, a combination like the fol-
lowing will be found to give almost universal satisfaction
in any locality where a full-ripe round liquor and high
flavor is in demand :—

58 ART OF BLENDING TEAS.
Parts. Varieties. Price.
Bigs sve leteysehe ete Ning-chow Congou..............-. @ .30
Dea oul lap pncons Fopchow Ookong...,.. «i -.0.am crue cians @ .24
a Sea on Formosa Oolong. .° -: des.c5. 1 <eaten @ .24
PAVIETASE. COSE 20. /0 ia, 05 ack shore ue + =< ss RE 244%

The Foochow Oolong in this combination while
possessing a full body is not sufficiently flavory to tone-up
the combination, the Formosa Oolong is added for this
purpose, the Congou giving character to the whole.

No. 6.
To obtain a grippy Tea, one that will stand a second
drawing and still possess sufficient body and flavor to
please, the following is suggested :—

Parts. Varieties. Price.
Bete vetosals shee ine Foochow. Oolong... 2. ........ 5: @ .15
CA a en a ae Formosa Oolong... ..2.0 3c... ss sates (@ .20
Gicciemiews cess Kaisow Congote.. ic «steer eames @ .24

ANVCrABEx COS. isccoeainge Von sees Shee eee ee -21
No. 7.

A blend similiar to the following will be found to give
very general satisfaction at all times and in all sections,
being full rich, and strong, yet withal smooth and pleasing
to the average taste and entirely dissimilar to any single
variety in common use :—

Parts, Varieties. Price.
Dice cele pec gees Moning ‘Congou.... si2...0000 sneer @ .30
Bite saisto iene. Basket-firéd Japan.............-. (@ .30
Beret sty a seca Formosa ‘Oglongig:. nis /<'s- «sss @ .30

AN GFA@O COSE Sc doc eelse dee Ste become 30

A fair Nankin Moyune Tea may be substituted for the
Japan when Green Tea is required in the combination, or,
better still, added to it in such cases.

—EEOio

ART OF BLENDING TEAS. 59

No. 8.
A very serviceable Tea that will yield a rich, heavy-
bodied pungent liquor, much admired by Irish or Eng-
lish tea consumers, is composed as follows :—

Parts. Varieties. Price.
Bevcteyichs aisis:a.ave Formosa: \OOlan go. ocewsssciehesacs 6 5 os @ .30
eee statnie/olnis\ ais) Pekoe-tipped Assam.............. (@ .30

PAMETARCICOSE: erainn oe seiko eee cae ASS .30

In this combination the Assam is introduced to add
strength to the piquancy of the Formosa, both forming
a full-bodied, fragrant Tea in conjunction.

No. 9. ‘
The appended blend yields a clear, strong, bright in-
fusion, rich and fragrant in flavor and pleasing in aroma,
for those who desire an all-black Tea.

Parts. Varieties. Price.
alee Ane PSeaI CP CRIES 5h S005) 015 Sikwloiar warersis @ .30

5 ee Basket-fired.: Japans.. . 5 cvsje.0008 6+ @ .24
Rtieetaiela cise ie Kornosa Oolong.........ic00 eee (@ .30
ates wieisisl eis « Poochow Oolones. oi ciick scence @ .26
DAVIE ARE COSE cos: styell hehe ine w\nieeslesbua'e #5 00 be a2,

The Oolongs in this combination lack body and
pungency, which the addition of the Assam imparts, the
Japan giving the necessary fragrance.

No. 10.

The following blend has been found to give almost
universal satisfaction in a neighborhood composed
chiefly of a working class and to Tea drinkers generally,
costing much less than any single variety possessing the
same cup qualities :—

Parts. Varieties. Price.
resists ime. @ esis Foochow OGlOnG, . oo </cc'tscaccs oo. a0 @ .20
Bishi eteistev sy <5 Sun-Gried Japan. 25 yoecces eo... @ .20
ae OOS ae PUSSAMY SOUCK ONG oie b ie oye sazs,0)0ig. 90. Q .20

WPA ROSE islet is clare) < ecaveis oqeiendhnc Bist ate m Siebels .20

60 ART OF BLENDING TEAS.

No. 11.

If the trade be a professional one, a blend like the
following will be found to suit the most fastidious
tastes ——

Parts. Varieties. Price.
WS. AN Moyune Young Hyson............ (@ .40
A Na cmnleraie cia wee Choice Foochow Oolong........... @ .40
Ip peea ti sa cgecs sc tehd Choice Formosa Oolong........... (@ .40

INVETALE COSE. h eee eset clases at rce so See ee ee .40
No, 12.

When a particularly rich, full-bodied aromatic-flavored
Tea is required to please a taste otherwise difficult to
suit, the appended formula is recommended.

Parts. Varieties. Price,
Dee ales spend Chociest Foochow Oolong..........@
Bee So'2) 3 Se aol Choicest Ceylon Rekoe. ...0. 5 ssae @
BYR aah hue pesoieys Choicest Formosa Oolong.......... @

Average cost

CC

No 13.
Another combination like the following that is unique
in itself, the flavor being unlike that of any single variety

grown.
Parts. Varieties. Price,
SS CERN Oa Basket-fred: Japanys:i2: cutscene @
LO ws repepeieinageeie le Foochow. Oolong... dial. sass eee @
HO oa oes eis Moyune Young Hyson........... @

Average cost

CC a cd

But if still not of sufficient strength, add one part of
fine Moning or Kaisow Congou to tone it up.

No. 14,
The three most satisfactory and attractive blends in
Black Teas, however, are composed as follows, which

ART OF BLENDING TEAS. 61

may be divided into Choice, Extra Choice and Choicest,
and are warranted to suit any taste or section of the
country, in addition to the fact that the dealer need
not carry too many kinds for their preparation.

No. 15.
CHOICE.

- Parts. Varieties. Price.
IIe cieislc.cleieie'e Keaisow (Gonsottin...'- creas sist: @ .30
Bites at's stoke a POochow J Oolome:. f:).,.\sissiae oe seis 6 @ .30

WAV ETD PCIE OSE ee larstetic vy oterri= ai tonaca isis la/eumnys.siclcl > & 30
No. 16.
EXTRA CHOICE.

Parts. Varieties. Price.
Dice tapdaitte bye 505 MonineiGonsoes io. es o3t535. @- 35
PANS 28 PO BaSket-lired. |ApaM.. ws <1 co. cules @ .35
Gea a oa Sl wlereis Foochow: Oolone. oa)... iss drawenind @ .35

PRVCEASIESCOSE (5c teerete tr artae Sain ncaa alelaiarneaiche! sh 35
No. 17%.
CHOICEST.

Parts. Varieties. Price.
DOGS 2, Heraeus. Fine Ning-chow Congou........... (@ .40
DORE ous aeons cies Fine Basket-fired Japan........... (@ .40
Cy i A Fine’ Formosa Oolong. .<..... 0... - @ .40

PNUETACESCOSH |, tens te agree nes a icuspa chant ancient .40

Ning-chow is one of the best of the Moning Congou
Teas for blending purposes; the finer grades being
Pekoe-tipped and flavored. The dried leaf is small,
evenly curled and grayish-black in color, while the
infused leaf is of a bright-brown color with a tendency
to redin the cup. The liquor is rich, ripe and full in
body, and the flavor is more delicate and aromatic than
that of any of the other varieties of Congou Tea. The

62 ART OF BLENDING TEAS.

——

medium and lower grades will also be found very useful
to the dealer, as they are heavy and strong in liquor, com-
bining advantageously with most of the other Teas and
keeping as a general rule much better.

To these may be added the following combinations.

No. 18.
FINE.

Parts. Varieties, Price.

Wie ae mec eis Choice Assain srekoe. cco ete (@,
Brae ee A Mee Choice Foochow Oolong........... (@,
AIVETagE POSES Sto so nodes Oe eterectela eee eee .
No. 19.
EXTRA FINE.

Parts. Varieties. Price.

Tyee Athos 5 Sea Ceylon Golden Pekoe.. ../5 2... 0.
Behr uns Sve: is sy Choice Formosa Oolong...........
PA VEEARE GOST Miaka anes a wiarelelsere Sa ee
No. 20.
FINEST.

Parts. Varieties. Price.
Biera rnc are ets Choicest Foochow Oolong......... @
Reinet aatae eis Choicest Formosa Oolong......... @

AVEEAES COSHH os ucccsh ns crea cecaeebe eee

In the general run of trade these grades are unmatch-
able at any price, and may be termed the perfection of
Tea at their respective prices, suiting any and all tastes.

GREEN TEA BLENDS.
In Green Tea blends the combinations are limited, being
chiefly confined to.

No. 1.
Parts. Varieties. Price.
pee Sean Sun-drjed :-Japan..: 2.010%. sesame @ .20
Baatsternnwtse cai Moyime Young Wyson........:. secon @ .24

ANGEAMC COB. ccabetehapetenae om ors brasisiok Ree 22

ART OF BLENDING TEAS, 63

No. 2.

Parts. Varieties. Price.
ee ene Pamthred Japan. 1. kad. ee! @ .20
ete alge 3 Moyune Imperial......... We cana @ .30

PVEPADE COS, . ccc 2c suafedieid's 0s So sla-'a ora eee 8.8.0 27
No. 3.

And for a very low-priced Tea of this order the best
results are obtainable from a combination composed of.

Parts. Varieties. Price.
Bircds Sale seta ae Sapam Nis: cc racsef-s wic's «os obs o eters @ «15
& SA aor oen Moytine Dyson... ates ic sn0rd ese vos o's (M 15

DOV PEABO UEOSEN! wie ake ose 2 3 since a Gee ole cas 5

In this latter blend, if the Hyson is scarce and difficult
to secure, a good, clean, sweet-drawing Twankay or
Hyson-skin will answer the purpose.

No. 4.
Two other good combinations are formed as follows
when an all Imperial and all Young Hyson is required :—

Parts. Varieties. Price.
eerie seis ys Moyune, Tmperials..). . 2.2 5.ke. ess @

Braet aiieis cncheie as Mienke Tmiperiaie. 22s icc's cies. niece @
ae SE-aiping Tima priate. on oss «is lasys 0 beeiss (@
Average cost....... SURirehe AUSSIE oats: wo sveverers

No. 5.

Parts. Varieties. Price.
OSES nea Nankin Young Hyson........... @
Pert leas Ris Tienke Young Hyson............. (@

SPS Scart was Fy-chow Young Hyson............ @
PAV EL AME COSC. i o's ole.s\anera/essiels icerlte a, « Sielesiere =

GREEN AND BLACK TEA BLENDS.

_ Green and Black Tea blends are mostly composed of
varts Oolongs and Imperials, the other varieties, such as

|
|

64 ART OF BLENDING TEAS.

Congous, Souchongs, India and Ceylons, being considered
as entirely too strong in combination with the already
pungent Green Teas.

No. 1.

Parts. Varieties. Price.
Diseane eter Se Moyune Inner sic see ee @ .18
heme eee eae Amoy: Oolong. gsi:/omeno.ceeee (@ .15

PVETACEVEOSTIA 5 citi ic one tes noel ater 15%
No. 2.
Parts. Varieties.
2 Rn Sct AN Choice Moyune Imperial........
Queers wicleline ateai Choice Foochow Oolong ........
Alverare cost! hci Gk ete cides ae tke eee
No. 3.
Parts Varieties.
DATs SOE ck eS Moyune Young Hyson............
ARP ats dis, gh aatahe Choice Formosa Oolong........... (@ .30
ANGLFAGE ,COSE fa sie; syecirgl [dere bianca! See tee
No. 4,
Parts. Varieties.
ie, 0 AI nae Moyune Young Hyson...........-
Ape ere aeieione Choicest Foochow Oolong,........
Bite ee ie ade eit Choicest Formosa Oolong..........
AVerage Costy) oc Sst ce ee eee
No. 5.

Is a combination that is considered quite
itself by many Tea-drinkers.

Parts. Varieties.
Bite ciate ieee as Sun-drieds Japan... <..ci: «..) ene
WOR tere eae Moyune Young Hyson...........
{Oo ee Lene 3 Choice Foochow Oolong.........

Average Costs. i Jit ik LOUIE Sie otis eee

ART OF BLENDING TEAS, 65

In China Green Teas Moyunes will be found the most
valuable and satisfactory for all blending purposes, the
finer grades particularly yielding a rich straw-colored
liquor, very delicate and aromatic in flavor, and at the
same time possessing a pungency somewhat resembling
that of a choice Formosa Oolong in character.

CHINA AND JAPAN TEA BLENDS.
_ The following blends cannot be surpassed or even
_ matched in strength and flavor by any tea of either kind
when used alone :—

No. 1,
Parts. Varieties, Price.

Ei rapetiaPetaes abst ect Ning-chow> Congotte.e soos ofetes'ats @
Deiarei marche <b berate Basket-fired’ Japan... ..bccs + ais'e'stets @
SSO See Kooehow! Oolong: 7). o2).0 Veale @
Boe. steaiatclote tate Bormosay. Oolong, [52.5 os «!s'o''a's's @
MAM EEARE! COU, nae ce ch faites cin 9 Siciaisl eieiecereidco clair:

No. 2.

The appended formula makes a splendid cup of Tea for
such consumers as may desire an all black blend :—

Parts. Varieties. Price.
Weta ne be Sr MonmeiGancouss ts aes se kk @
Bos groans Basket-fired Japan: Ss0itiheus arrett'. @
Srleeirelee sates Barnosa Oolan gnc sa crcae vice) @
UNVIET AE: COSES = ar.te eta mialeyare sore oie is uifa'a(o'ois, 90198
No. 3.

A blend like the following will be found to give very
general satisfaction, being rich, full and strong, yet
piquant and pleasing and entirely foreign to any other
Tea in general use :—

66 ART OF BLENDING TEAS.

Parts. Varieties. Price,
Deine trate eo ice Pan-fired) Japatiaesce ss qetuee eee @
Were Beat Ae = Noyune tmiperial nn. ee <0 06 eee @
bys secret a Formiosa ‘Oolong .\f2 6-22 28. @

INVOTACE COSE Sioa cieievelrtiavste ive omerslele mintelare eters
No. 4.

Parts. Varieties. Price.
Dregne aateos Sun-dried fapattin. f.cciv sane eiel nee @
DYING tan se ee Basket-fired: Japan. i.e: <.ccce tes @
OSETIA Foochow Oolong t...0). 5.8520 48 @

INV CTAGE! COSE Ls )--2% nc cores cle e ceisiele o eereretee oe nene
No. 5.

Parts. Varieties, Price.
enc ERAS Moning Congas. cnutc niet cane (@
Tee eens aecsoo Basket-fired Japan....... nee ccpere @
Ta mei ec ice Moyune Impertalk s:c.iy05 20 occe @
Se Are AON, a as oe Foochow Oolong....... .+- ai eee @,
ebwensise stare Sins Formosa Oolong, ; <.cei/s.c oj. eee (@,

AVerageé COSE., <./2ceeec as sore ac? eee

In addition to these a blend composed of equal parts
of a medium grade Pan-fired Japan and a plain dark-
drawing Foochow Oolong forms an excellent combina-
tion at a moderate price. And a fair Pakeong Young
Hyson and a choice Sun-dried Japan yields an excellent
liquor for those desiring an all Green Tea blend.

INDIA AND CHINA ‘TEA BLENDS.

In the appended combinations only from three to four
component parts are given for each blend, as the dealer
should not attempt to mix more of these sorts until he
has become thoroughly acquainted with their peculiari-
ties or educated his trade up to their use:—

a ee

ART OF BLENDING TEAS. 67

No. 1.

Intended for a very low-priced tea.

Parts. Varieties. Price.
Diets tS Common Moning Congou......... @ .15
Breas Sele een tA Common Kaisow Congou......... @ 15
5 a See Broken-leaf Assam .)..:< sche gape acoe @ .15

FEMME TS OE GOS ois = 3 woof [ao Meigs Busine, Comins nce eyed Pi IL

This is a good combination where the water is hard,
as it is in many sections of the country, the sweetness
of the Moning and briskness of the Kaisow being
unequalled for all low-priced blends.

No. 2
Is another excellent combination, answering the same

purpose :—
Parts. Varieties. Price.
Mey .ttateycncee 3 Sasyune COMCO. o.iae cas oo. dees @
(ae eee PAM CORCOW. 5015's, s%teiorose: sid «2 3 2 @
BPR cS terloxsta) 5 3 PSSA COMGOUE acon cic kates sraisa kc @
We TAGE COSEccja saya. aifc ofc desi oie, ois" ow eva 0 Grays, of hoke

Strength not appearance should be the test of the
Teas forming this blend, and if Assam Souchong is
cheaper it may be used to better advantage.

No. 3
Is composed of
Parts. Varieties. Price.
BIS ry ates Suley-kub Conpowe i). i52% 4..2,s..as ce @
(ine LN enone Rapsing SOUCRORG Sy 2). 24 cles ss 0% (a;
emacs coe ROUCH EUNGENE ASSAIN: «sess 4 cc0s- @,

PN CLARE COS a Beiter ay 3) jie eae: diss said is's,aib ie
A fine Kintuck or Kiukiang Congou may be used
with equal advantage in this blend if the Suey-kut is
_ difficult to obtain.

68 ART OF BLENDING TEAS.

No. 4.
Parts. Varieties. Price.
Deepak ahah oat earns Palin) (Come oasis a aise sa eins oatacelotonetore @
Die alee doy hehene Ning-chow Congou............... @
Bain somes lee’ Darjeeling Souchong............. @

Average cost

The chief feature of this combination is its delicacy of
flavor, the Paklin imparting a deep rich color to the
liquor, the Ning-chow enriching the flavor, and the
Darjeeling adding weight and strength to the entire blend.

No. 5

Makes a very good medium-priced Tea, one nearly
always sure of appreciation among a foreign population :—

Parts. Varieties. Price.
Tr ties cic eaale Fruity Moning Congou............ @
Ee Stree aici Souchong-flavored Kaisow......... @,
Rue oe ecient Pungent Cachar Souchong......... @
AVEFASECOSE. 25 6.60 1s propio chctnie crete <-' cette eee

The latter must be strong and grippy in order to give
strength and fullness to the other component parts of
this combination.

In the blending of India Teas alone the best results
are obtained from a combination of equal parts of the
Assam, Cachar and Darjeeling sorts, a good plan being
to mix three to five of these Teas together A leading
and popular blend is composed of a strong, thick
Assam, a brisk and pungent Cachar, with a ripe, juicy
Deradoon and a fine flavored Darjeeling or soft char-
acter Kangra to impart a distinctive feature to the com-
bination.

ART OF BLENDING TEAS. 69

INDIA, CHINA AND JAPAN .BLENDS.

In the blending of India, China and Japan Teas the
dealer must use extreme caution, as the combining of

| these varieties is comparatively a new departure among
American Tea consumers.
| No. 1.
Parts. Varieties. Price.
) Bee a Ces Assam Pékoe tie 2% TIE wee
[ads SR eRe HormosawOulong.. 6 ds, Whe ok @,
| 500 5 ae One Basket-fired) Japan ..u» dstiben wank @
MON Seg ise sts. Foochow Qolong .s 2.tys. tients 34> (@,
A yeEASeLeOSE. 21 Joie) edt Ree
No. 2.
Parts. Varieties. Price.
ae eens ars cid Assam Souchong....... bestia nite @
Bnet Fok Foachow/Oolong:.°. 4.20... 9 9 BS. @
Berlin oct-ia> ss Sun-dried Japan........ Sistaverereatyfe(@)
Averapewostsyi gs vet oh . BOhouaLe Ho 6obeS
No. 3.
Parts. Varieties. Price.
1 ek Wea Moning ‘Comeau. «cc. sues sents @
Dew ae ee tee AssamySouchOng... os. sccs ihe eee: @
Petal tinaercer WOoehow OGlOne ss sc... cs caccee @
BRNCEASCN CSUR MTN CRMC n Ae GL oc ks oie
No. 4,

The annexed combination has proven to be a very
popular Tea in many sections of Philadelphia and
vicinity :—

Parts. Varieties. Price.
Lascieassnes Pan-fired Japan's? 2.2) 6223. Be ()
Li, Seer Rion Moyune ‘Imaperials 2... 22...» oss, ¢ @
LL ie c senna PHOICERASSADI Oa aniics cae en's Has @
ie sit cco tearet ta Formosa Oolong .........- sa e@

40 ART OF BLENDING TEAS.

No, 5.
Parts. Varieties. Price.
Spree Broken-leaf Assam......... sone 1D
> Ee BS. 4: Kaisow, GONSOWs).2 4)<6 52 so clewisia's @
DORs Sones aes Ning-yong Oolong..............- @

PAV ETAPEICOSED. |. Yee’ «/sciiaenus pie ses Seale

In this latter combination both the Ning-yong and
Kaisow Congou must be clean ; that is, as free from dust
as possible at the price, and fairly heavy in body. The
Assam being added to impart tone, character and flavor
to the whole, it should be fresh and strong, and while a
little coarseness may be tolerated in it, an earthy-flavored
one must be avoided.

INDIA AND CEYLON BLENDS.

The blending of India and Ceylon Teas is chiefly con-
fined to equal parts of each. The lower grades being
generally composed of Broken-leaf and Fannings.

No. 1.
Parts. Varieties. Price.
Dictate ateteiaie cate Ceylon. .Pekge.. .62)ck genseke cs ee @
Od ctsteryerdel dae Assam Pekoe-Souchong.......-e+. @,
AVETAZE COSE: cic ec wie wie = = oe «loka nae ee
No. 2

An excellent blend of these varities is composed of

Parts. Varieties. Price.
Recta. vee Assam Pekoe-Souchong........... @
or 4 OR OER Ceylon Pekoe-Souchong..........-. @

AETASE COSE FW. sle vn icles glein’s el nia s=teimanioneines

This combination will please the most fastidious
drinkers of these Teas.

ART OF BLENDING TEAS. 71

No. 3.
Makes a very pleasing Tea for consumers who prefer
these growths to any other.

Parts. A Varieties. Price.
SEM tencs gsc ocré « Ceylon Silver-Pekoe. . i205 c.0.026% @
ere Ceylon Golden-Pekoe............. @
ders cis s i India Pekoe-Souchong............ @

INVEFASEICOSE, Ljdc hc eichidis ater sob Aetaler wud erste cde ore

Broken-leaf India and Ceylon Teas are especially
useful for all blending purposes, and a judicious use of
these grades—of say two parts to ten of the other kinds—
will often give the dealer an advantage of from four to
six cents per pound in addition to greatly improving the
blend, more particularly when the other Teas are leafy
and free from dust. But all low-grade India and Ceylon
Teas that possess a burnt, baked, sour or raw flavor,

must be avoided.

INDIA, CHINA AND CEYLON BLENDS.

In all combinations of India, Ceylon and China Teas
the average quantity of the former kinds used should be
from one-fifth to one-sixth.

No. 1.
Parts. Varieties. Price.
ee eras hit Meets Ceylon: Souchong. «<0 Genk. kk @
Beets bed. ease ce Assam: Soucheng:. oo... 0. cess @
ieratcrausususeeencaoes Chinag SOUCKOMO: cro. ayeraieteeerciersteroy=es @
PRMEGALNG RECS Cero Me pid oS IE Gree eater eek ora e e's os
No 2.

A blend like the following will be found to yield a
strong, rich and fragrant infusion for customers desiring

Ceylon and India Teas :—

72 ART OF BLENDING TEAS.

Parts. Varieties. Price.
Disisgs shape oforsiaehe Assam Pekoe). 0: ci becuase te @
BS Sihaws daeercer Choice Ceylon Souchong.......... @
Garde Poe Choice Formosa Oolong........... @,
Average costs: 7/7 Ae Sas. et wae et eee
No. 3.

But if a rich, heavy-bodied and aromatic Tea is re-
quired to please a taste difficult to suit, the appended
formula is recommended :—

Parts. Varieties. Price.
QE. Cae oe Ceylon’ Pekoe 0) 32 i. re cr @
Difco bebne eit Assam) Souchong ioe sic0s) ts ee @
Baek sess bars Foochow, Oolong) is. «isis sisyeste'eoome @

Average'cost 42 2 Ue a ee
The Oolong used in this formula must possess pun-
gency and high-fiavor, the addition of the Ceylon impart-
ing a “toastiness,” the Assam furnishing “ maltiness” |
and strength to the entire combination.

For avery cheap Tea a low-priced Mohea Oolong and
Broken-leaf Assam, both costing about 15 cents, and
blended in equal proportions, cannot be excelled by any
single Tea at 30 cents when used alone. This combina-
tion gives better satisfaction to Tea-drinkers of this grade
and costs much less.

SCENTED TEA BLENDS.

Among English and Scotch Tea consumers Scented
Teas are used very largely in nearly all combinations,
and more especially in those of the lower-priced blends;
but where this is done it is always best to use only
Moning Congous for the foundation Tea of the blend,
as Scented Teas combine far better with Monings than
with Kaisows. One of the most common errors in

ART OF BLENDING TEAS. 73

Tea blending, however, is that a certain large portion
of Scented Teas, when combined with any other variety
—no matter how flat, rough or astringent the latter may
be—will make a blend not only palatable but pleasing.
This is an illusion, as Scented Teas of themselves can-
not master or overpower commonness or supply lack of
strength to any Tea or Teas which does not already
possess it. But while it is admitted that a small quan-
tity may improve any blend, if too freely or injudi-
ciously used it will make the combination thin, and, in
addition, unless the Scented Tea has been well selected,
the blend will probably taste heavy in the cup. When
Scented Caper is used too freely in a blend special care
must be taken to obtain a very heavy-bodied Tea for the
foundation, it being best to add thick-liquoring Indias, as
otherwise a too plentiful use of Caper will make the in-
fusion thin and bitter.

No. 1.
For use only in Scented Tea districts or among Irish,
English and Scotch Tea consumers.

Parts. Varieties. Price.
eet eae Moniig-Gongou sco soci edieas eos @
Tee 2 ee ASSAM SOUCHONR V5), hiersistis ns > ceed (@,
[ae ee SEented Gamer wi tisieceas.c ete cisizid,s.2 @

PIMEEARE OSE Tyo Cnty ar cicrtimss ise aee se cialeres eve
Should this combination be too light in draw, two
pounds or parts of the Congou may be used or the

_ Assam increased half a pound or part.

No. 2.
Parts. Varieties. Price,
Cee fol stata a= sie. 0s Scented Flowery Pekoe..........* @,
Pe eodeesieks Assam Pekoe-Souchong........... (a
Ae a ai eriytt cects SIAGY MBE MCORGOUA 4S 5, din/ole« cuciasesavajai aco (@

PAMETAGECOSE ia cs avetevetat ae! a ate: slke ora Stowtaelakad sts

74 ART OF BLENDING TEAS.

———

In this combination the Assam must be strong and
pungent and the Congou selected for its sweetness and
briskness, and both free from coarseness and should be
neither thin or sour.

No. 3.

Parts. Varieties, Price.
Be aie eck Scented.Orange -Pekoe.. ....... 4255. @
eee tar Padrae SOUGRORES 6.61600 Sta mace @
SH ae he Assam “SOucHONg:. $2" s0ic 0 ain Oe wee @

Die ics Soe Moning’ Seuchong 33.0. 0640.) @

INV erage COS se isije.a,« sisi sire acs. sia Fine a

This combination is of great strength and intended
only for those who prefer a heavy dark-liquored Tea,
as it is much too strong to please the average taste.

No. 4. |

The following combinations are very popular among ~
English Tea consumers in this country, and will be found 4
to suit the average taste for scented Tea-blends.

Parts. Varieties. Price.

a EE Formosa Oolongea. ss ax aeek ss 5 soe @
| LTA ea are Orange. Pekoes:sicd. S28bce. Coss @
Deis re ose sie Assam “Pekoe ii ot. ices dans @
IE A ere China Souchong. oi... care eee @
Alrite bictsteve sisi Kaisow CONGO os. 10s as.cicinie wails (@
Oi ecrerriasiclcloats Moning Congo... .<. << owsialeens @

AVGTASE COBE oc o\anisicase ris ice mcesie a te epee

The base or foundation of this blend, as will be no- —
ticed, is composed of Moning Congou, the Souchong en-
riching it, and the Kaisow being added to give it the
requisite flavor, the Pekoe imparting aroma, and the
Oolong smoothness, while the Assam adds body, sharp- _
ness and pungency to the whole. r

ART OF BLENDING TEAS, 715

No. 5.
Another very similar scented Tea-blend that may be
prepared cheaper, but which will not prove quite as sat-
isfactory, is composed as follows :—

Parts. Varieties, Price.
Brin iahe's 656376 Foochow Oolong fs. 005. .-0ce. ss @
Were spare on Gtanee re SOC eo tet tes eee sc 8 3s @

BEES atsteeiehs eats Scented Capers): osc dsos eho @
Biaasiisyet es = « Assam; Consouke sc<.0. sic ee cas ofl @
Beka aia aacim Spadbys s @hina, SQueho ngs a. sighs! sus. alanaits @
a (Pelee cc Kaisow) Coneauecs 2. aie nals ccm. @
ee Se wwlenins Comeeus... st ace siscc. ss @,

PICEA OVC ORE 20 on ss oso ie ennai eae andra

The Moning Congou forming the base of this com-
bination not possessing the strength and flavor of these
used in the first, an extra quantity of Assam is required to
tone them up. The equal proportion of Kaisow impart-
ing a richer flavor as well as toning down the high toast
of the Assam used in it, the Pekoe giving an aroma or
“bouquet” to the entire blend.

ENGLISH TEA BLENDS.

Blended Teas are the rule in England, where the skill-
ful mixing of Teas has become a science very little, if
any, Tea being sold to consumers in its original state,
every dealer, both wholesale and retail, being noted for
or identified with some unique or particularly flavored
blend of Tea. The majority of these combinations,
although markedly distinct and differing widely in flavor
and almost opposite in character, are skillfully combined,
the greatest care being taken that no Tea is introduced
nto a blend that may act detrimentally upon the others
orming the combination, which proves that no matter
tow great the divergence in the Teas whenever knowl-
sdge and judgment is brought to bear on the subject

76 ART OF BLENDING TEAS. i

success is sure to follow. And, again, that, although
most of the combinations are exceedingly popular,
there is still ample room for the introduction of new
ones as well as for improvement on those in use at pres-
ent. But the knowledge and skill displayed by English |
Tea dealers in this particular branch of their business is _
only attained by frequent tests and experiments, that is, |
by generally mixing together from three to five samples |
of Tea differing in variety, grade and character, and
alternately changing and substituting the qualities and.
quantities until they eventually succeed in producing a.
Tea at a more moderate price, identified with themselves,,
and more satisfactory to their customers, in addition to)
differing in every respect from the Teas offered by their -
competitors.

No. 1.
Parts. Varieties. Price,
Epo alkes since Fruity Moning Congou............ @
itp Prasieteaears Pine ‘Ceylon Congoul.. 2. ean eer @,
Wee fee roiseateeteie Fine Assam Congow.. 202.0. .02.. @
Bie. be5 13s) a ener Fine scented Capet.i: c o.cinseeien @

Average; COsts iu. .c0see ee. REPS tk ae

The Moning should be thick and heavy in liquor and]
also the Ceylon, while the Caper must be highly”
scented. re

No. 2.
Parts. Varieties. Price.
Toe aR SS Oopack Congoulist!. V4. oxen @
Tilo hie oie cieits ee GéyloniCongowtss: hae > thickener @,
Tht euevanncitershs Assam Pekoe-Souchong........... @
Bish 2a sic, cial China, Scented (Caper... eee er @

Average COSE ii: ubietAis ancl ce hte - ioe eee
In this blend the Oopack must not be thin, “ woody”

or old, while the Caper should be selected more for its:
high scent and strength rather than its style. a

ART OF BLENDING TEAS. Vi

Ceylon Congou heavy in draw and the Pekoe-Souchong
strong and pungent.

—

No. 3.

y Parts. Varieties. Price,
Meee ees cee Ceylon” Gongotins ce. os. cedae eas. 2 @
Lees xb Ning-chow Congoul sts. ees ho 4) @,
Miattetet dis vale italia’ Broken-leak Assam oss: ye 01s siaysjcssieie (@

0 GS aeSet ae Darjeeling Souchong s..5 o.1. vns< - @

PRN ARE COSE hs ei old wi siel cus ai olok ani tiesiegaleted sich x
The Ceylon Congou should be heavy and strong,
_ the Ning-chow round and full, the Assam pungent and
_ the Darjeeling possess as much character as possible at
the price.

No. 4.

Parts. Varieties. Price.
Maratea ster si sis /= ChingworGongouw nis. ese ehe a a: @
Sette abet or oksve Ceylon Souchonge7 ic. S20 we tse: @

Be ee Darjeeling Pekoe-Sonchong........ @,
Mraeke eyaiats eye sce Assam Orange: Pekoe. . 0°... 5. @

PAVIELASE COSEs stn tt. crn sane cretele ales oie ol hee ae
The Chingwo must be first crop if obtainable, and the
Ceylon thin, while the Indias should be rich, ripe and
free from all coarseness.

No. 5.
Parts, Varieties. Price.
EAL haere Oohfa Commeuiing ace ssi wisps heer oat @.
6s oe eee KaisOw (Come OU.) oy jerd iepsl diniele hie « soe, @,
Dees Meocese oes Darjeeling Me kOG 4. aca crete ieeleso.n\0, << @
Bastatiat 1 80h AssampSouchang) an saerenies ccc): @
TeRe eae seas 0% Ceylon Golden-Pekoe sens pss .s sa @

BRIE ACE COS Etc cas cheetah « oiepe olga leis ae sya iacelnts
In this combination the Congous must be full and rich,
and if a little “tarry” in flavor the better, but must not
be old or sour.

———

78 ART OF BLENDING TEAS.

No. 6.
Parts. Variet.es, Price.
EU ae wae eee Kintuck-Congou,. 7). 6 2% «2. aenn @
Bite cos saetteren Ceylon Congous ae ee eee @
lee oy ie saree Oc China’ Flowery Pekoes=.e.j25.5-6 @
LSS teeysns chante Assam Orange: Pekoe. tats. Jose @
Ben SOI Darjeeling Pekoe-Souchong....... @

AVETASEICOSE rare eek oniele neh eee ene
Both the Congous must be first crop or of good grade,
the China Pekoe highly scented and the —_ Pekoes
thick in liquor and pungent in flavor.

No. 7%.

Parts. Varieties. Price.
ec tetie, os, snipes Oonta 'Congoui sn. Sis>. ase neuee @
Dosctophrs Sree Chinswo* Congo... s-cceas sete (a)
Meiers Belews Foochow Oolongy.0-.0\./. -%<c0.tor (@,
tesic, hqepeeae Assam Pekoe-Souchong........... @
Rc oe oder China Scented CADET siaetooiab.s aeeie (@

AVETARCS COSUs i: sia pcan eos ge en a Ci aoe
All tarriness and sourness must be avoided in the Con-
gous, the Foochow heavy-bodied and the Caper full-
scented, while the India must be of high grade and
strength.

No. 8.
Parts. Varieties. Price.
BS oes ees Kaisow (Congerior.2€ ./<...5 on 2 emeaee @
Bs Ars mete Moning. Gongouls iia. 22002 one (@
een Daa Res China Orange Pekoe. sr sah.c. een (@
| a, aA aoe Assam Oratige Pekoese: 0.0. .0.6%% @
ee? Darjeeling Orange Pekoe.......... @

AVEFAgE COSt.oiacne ale ois an icles ee
The Moning must be light and fragrant, the Kaisow,
Souchong-flavored, the Assam full and rich, the Darjeel-
ing fairly pungent and of good quality, while the China
Pekoe should be very high scented.

pe

a

ART OF BLENDING TEAS. 79

No. 9.
Parts. Varieties. Price.
Lee ee IRAISOW, CONPOUR ye crisis yo ee eo (@,
| tre Nine-chaw Gongow ssc. ot oss. se: @
3 Lapsing sGuchometsn seu sas: Aes @
Sees ee Ceylon Orange /Pekoesoines. 2och.os (@
ily 4 CES Assam Oranges PEGG. .oc% io 3,5 50 @

PUMEGACIE COS (tre Knaly scluiak.a bea yao s alae
In this combination the Congous should be fairly thick
and fruity, the Souchong heavy and a little “tarry,”
the Ceylon smooth and the India pungent in liquor.

No. 10.
Parts. Varieties. Price.
Be ia ce. st Ning-chow Congou...... @
Nee AME ial cf ats Ching wo Coneouls. |. 0k. Ses ae: (@
et ee Dasjeeling Pekoes 0: 453i 2azllese x: (@,
RO ssn he ais Braken-leafwAssam ens 5 2 stats oa (@,
cr
iceicite veke 5 5 Broken-lean Ceylon 7.05005 00 See @

PME ARCNCOS Ua) Coast dhs duesths wie thas ansleie Seslersieys

Many of the Tea-blends in use in England, although
Jiffering widely in liquor and flavor, are most skillfully
combined, the greatest caution being taken that no Tea
is introduced in them that may in any way act detriment-
ally upon any of the other Teas forming the blend. As
stated above, the majority of these English blends are
markedly distinct in cup-qualities, in fact, almost dia-
metrically opposite, the chief feature of one being a rich,
ripe Tea, that of another being an even-leafed, delicate-
flavored Tea, while the foundation of the third is composed
of a plain grade, to which is added a rough, coarse or
broken Tea, in order to increase its body or give point
to the combination, a small quantity of some good,
eet, low-priced kind being frequently introduced to

80 ART OF BLENDING TEAS. f

reduce the cost. Again, after the English Tea dealer
has once succeeded in producing a popular flavored”
Tea, he is most careful to keep the component parts _
of the blend as uniform as possible, and never per-_
mits even his employees to know of what Teas his_
combination is formed. He thus becomes celebrated _
for keeping a flavor and character of Tea that cannot be—
procured elsewhere at any price, and when once his
customers becomes educated to that especial flavor they

are sure to return again and again for it. '

"
dew el Se

RUSSIAN TEA BLENDS.

The Russians, who are a nation of Tea drinkers and use :
as much tea per head as the Chinese themselves, con-.-
sume principally China Souchongs and the better grades ;
of Congous, their blends and combinations being chiefly
composed of these varieties, so that in sections populated
with Russians, Russian Jews and Poles the appended!
specimens will suffice for their use :—

No. 1.

Intended for a cheap, strong, full-bodied Tea is com-.

posed of |
Parts. Varieties. Price. i

Ngee set icionaian Soto Common Moning Congou.......... (a, }

CRS 9 & Sines aiiks Common Kaisow Congou.......... (@, i
SRS See Common Lapsing Souchong....... (a, !
= N

Average cost. S062 Sirk. oe 1

:

No. 2. i

A good, heavy-bodied medium Tea is formed as fol--

lows :—
Parts. Varieties, Price.
ied Spr sk Pane Re Padrae Congou..24in fG-5 eeee @
Tee, errs Assam Pekoe-Souchong........... @ |
Bricks pierre ae Lapsing. Souchong....... 35 oases (@, 4

AVierage *COSk ia): teas vec sincals sodas a ee

ART OF BLENDING TEAS. 81

No. 3.
Parts. Varieties. Price.

RRS Sa eee I alsow pCOMGOUE lh cu cie cvg se sos @
1 5 Siac aaene a Ning-chow’ Conpou.s 2. f0.. os. .- @,
ee Chinai Orange) Pekoev2)2.).1. 2 5 0.5 (@,
2 ES Pane Lapsine Seuchoug... ic tein as wn @,
Je LESSEN SILO Sa UP eI SR OS gti, Li A

No. 4.

Latterly, however, India and Ceylons are coming
more into use in this country with this class of trade, so
- that combinations of China, India and Ceylons, such as

_ the following, are very popular among them.

Parts. Varieties. Price.
PES ch 5.15 ts Pia? COMPO oe a inlcaaist plore en oe (@,
ie nae Eapsing SOuChONe.. \ oct. ne onda ‘@)
LAST a ee Géylon/Souchonous 28 hee8 phd (@,
| PAVICV AT ESCOSLY trait Ne a eka hd oe ete ve falntors oanoec

No. 5

Parts. Varieties. Price.
It Sek dt Sepa Eni Gea SOUCHON Gs cia sie wre alec ot eieie ae @
WR eee rcs erate GS Ceylon; SOUCHONE Hie. as. ete Hers (@,
(CR CA eee Eapsing, SOUCHONS: 0%. ts. ss (@,
PAVET AS EI COSUNG Nun Ona er ole eure sik ai tioiandia oes

In Russia the Samovar, or tea pot, is always steaming,
and the natives never cease drinking tea while there is
water left to prepare it. It is served at all hours of the
day, in palace as well as hovel; shops abound for its sale
in all the principal cities, all business transactions being
made and sealed over steaming goblets of Tea. But
however great the number or wide the divergence in
the liquors and flavors of the combinations here given,

_wherever knowledge and judgment is brought to bear on
pe subject, success is sure to follow the efforts of the
|

82 ART OF BLENDING TEAS.

dealer ; and although the majority of the foregoing blends
have been found exceedingly good by actual experience,
there is still ample room for other combinations by the
progressive Tea-blender as well as for great improve-
ments upon those that are presented here.

RULES FOR SUCCESSFUL TERA
BLENDING.

The great art of successful Tea blending consists in
the combining of quality, strength, pungency with some
particular liquor and distinct flavor so as to please the
greatest number of consumers for whom the blend is in-
tended, and at the same time to arrange the component
parts in such a manner that this result may be attained
at the smallest possible cost to the dealer. In order to
accomplish this object three important points are neces-
sary: (1.) The dealer must study to understand the
tastes and preferences of his customers for whom the
blend is to be prepared. (2.) He must learn to know
which varieties and grades of Tea that will combine
best to please this taste, and (3) He must learn to know
how far the component parts of each blend can be varied
when required without seriously affecting its uniformity,
so that he may be the better enabled to take advantage
of the cheapness of any special grade of Tea in the
market.

In the blending of China Congous it will be found
most desirable to avoid the mixing of Teas of a heavy,
strong or coarse description, such as “ Red-Leaf” Teas
of the Padrae and Saryune sorts with those of a highly
flavored and delicate character, such as Monings and
Chingwos, as to blend Teas of such markedly different
characters will be found beneficial to neither. This rule ©
also applies to Formosa Oolongs and the Congou sorts, as

ART OF BLENDING TEAS. 83

the briskness of the lower and livelier Tea is marred by
the softness of the more delicate and flavory Tea in the
combination, while the body of the former will be spoiled
by the delicacy of the latter.

The importance of retaining all blends regular and
uniform—when once they have been adopted and proven
satisfactory—cannot be overestimated, as what Tea
dealer can expect continued success if his blends con-
sist one week or month of fine, flavory Teas, the next of
heavy, dull-liquored Teas, and the third of a sharp,
pungent or astringent character ? Each new combination
may possess good qualities of its own, all its component
parts be skillfully and judiciously arranged and the mix-
ing performed with the greatest care, but unless one or
more good blends is decided on and then closely ad-
hered to complaints will be made by the customers if they
do not go elsewhere. To obtain this necessary uniformity
is sometimes very difficult for the dealer, as no two
invoices of Tea will be found exactly alike in all respects;
and although Teas may be selected of about the same
grade and quality, even chosen from those grown in the
same district and blended in exactly the same propor-
tions as in the combination they are intended to replace,
the divergence may still be so great as to cause dissatis-
faction among the customers. This variation may best
be avoided by not changing more than one of the Teas,
composing the blend at the same time, so that when a
number of Teas are used in a blend the alteration of any
one of them—providing that particular one is fairly
matched—will make but a comparatively small difference
in the combination. If the changes in the various Teas
forming the blend are thus made gradually, few, if any, of
the customers will detect the slight alteration in the blend.

84 ART OF BLENDING TEAS.

Scoops or other measures must not be relied on in the
proper blending of Teas; scales and weights must be in-
variably used if the dealer wants to be precise and suc-
cessful in the business. For if it is worth his time and
trouble to test a number and variety of Teas in order
that he may select the most suitable for the purpose, and
then study how to arrange them in the best and most
advantageous proportions, it certainly is worth the little —
extra time and trouble of not marring the qualities of his
combinations by an injudicious and hap-hazard muddling
of the quantities of the various parts composing the
blends. This advantage of wezghing the Teas for blend-
ing is not excelled even by the advantages gained by the
careful and judicious selection of the Teas for blending
purposes.

All Teas after being blended should be allowed to
stand in the caddie or bin, tightly closed, for from a week —
to ten days before dispensing, in order that the different —

Teas composing the blends may have sufficient time to _
assimilate and to exchange or impart their opposite —

flavors to each other. For should they not be allowed —
to thus stand, and the Tea be used just as soon as the
blend is prepared, first one and then another of its com- ~
ponent parts will predominate in too great a proportion,
ty which the time and trouble that has been taken in —
arranging the blend will have been to a large extent
wasted and thrown away ; while if the mixture be allowed
to remain in the bin or caddie as directed, it will eventu-—
ally kecome as one Tea and be always regular and uni-
form in quality and flavor.

Good, clean and sweet low-grade Teas being nearly
always to be had for a few cents per pound above the

ART OF BLENDING TEAS. 85

price of the cheap, trashy Teas now offered on the
American market, it is only folly for the dealer to pur-
chase the latter, as they are not cheap at any price, as
by the supposed saving of these few cents in the pound,
the seed is not only sown for the future ruin of the in-
dividual dealer, but it also disgusts the public with Tea as
an article of food, while on the other hand if the Tea dealer
will make a comparatively small but requisite sacrifice
for the sake of future gain, complete satisfaction will be
given to his customers, the trade in Tea will be fostered
and increased, and a great impetus given to its con-
sumption by a discriminating public.

A blend of Tea should never have its cost reduced by
the introduction of a grade coarser in nature than that
of a majority of the Teas forming the combination, so
that low-grade Teas when used for reducing the cost of
the blend should be as full, plain and sweet as possible.
This is advisable for the reason that a Tea of such a
pronounced character will more or Jess stamp its own
impression upon any blend into which it may be intro-
duced. Again, should the lowest-priced Tea in a blend
be a Tea of a marked or inferior character instead of its
being absorbed by the other Teas in the blend, its disa-
sreeable features will stand out prominently among them,
while the superior qualities of the finer grades will be—
if not entirely obliterated—yet so injured as to be scarcely
recognizable. While if the component parts of the blend
be so well arranged that the most powerful Tea constitut-
ing it be also the highest grade Tea, the effect produced
is that the other Teas in it are raised to its level, but if

the powerful Tea is one of the low-priced Teas the others

naturally reduce to its standard.
4

86 ART OF BLENDING TEAS.

Early picked or “ first-crop” Teas should always be
chosen when possible to obtain for blending purposes, as
first-crop Teas are always superior to the later pickings
in flavor and aroma, in the greater amount of Zhezne (the
active principle of Tea) which they contain as well as in
their keeping qualities and blending properties, in fact, in
everything except body for which Tea is deemed valu-
able; but in addition to selecting first-crop Teas for high-
grade blends, it will be found advisable each season to
ascertain the district yielding the best product, thus
making quality as well as quantity the test of success,
for as with wheat and other crops the Tea crop varies
considerably according to the season, some years it is
very good in one province or district while in others it
may prove a comparative failure; thus one year a certain
crop of Tea may be heavy and strong in liquor and
flavor and next thin, weak and flavorless, while other
“chops” that have been lacking in these qualities last year
may possess the most desirable qualities this year. All
varieties of Tea are equally subject to these variations,
so that the advantages to be derived from a careful
utilization of the best district crops of the year with but
slight consideration will be very manifest to the dealer
himself.

The tastes in Tea of different communities varying
widely, the dealer should study and learn the particular
kind and flavor best adapted to the district or locality in
which he is doing business, as a Tea that may suit one
class of consumers will not sell at all in another, so that
the dealer himself should ascertain by repeated trials
what variety or grade of Tea best suits his own par-
ticular trade. This object can best be accomplished by a
series of experiments with the numerous kinds of Tea,

ART OF BLENDING TEAS. 87

——

and then noting and adopting the character and flavor
of the Tea or Teas that gives the best satisfaction in
price and quality to a majority of his patrons. Before
proceeding to give formulas for any specific combina-
tions it will be well for the dealer to consider the varie-

ties and grades of Tea that will not blend satisfactorily
as well as those which will assimilate best with each
other, for it must not be forgotten for a moment by the
dealer that Zea if not improved is certain to be injured
by blending. But it is much easier for him to learn what
Teas to avoid than what Teas to select, and what are
best adapted to his particular trade.

Generally in a thickly-populated manufacturing and
mining district, or among all working classes in this
country, heavy-bodied, sweet-drawing Amoy and dark-
leaved, strong Foochow Oolongs will prove the most
popular Teas for the base or foundation of all blends,
while in a district composed chiefly of Irish, English or
Scotch Tea consumers, Congous, Souchongs and the
better grades of India and Ceylon Teas will be found
to give the best satisfaction. In neighborhoods made

-up of Polish and Russian Jews, low-grade, dark-drawing,
thick-liquored Congous and Souchongs, or combinations
of these two varieties alone, will be found the most
satisfactory, being known tothem as Russian Teas, from
the fact that these are the only sorts used among Rus-
sian Tea drinkers.

For the base of the best blends or for flavoring pur-
poses among purely American Tea consumers a really

_ choice Formosa Oolong wil be found an exceedingly
| valuable Tea, as a small quantity of fine or even toler-
‘ably good Formosa Tea will permeate and taste through

838 ART OF BLENDING TEAS.

any combination, and most Tea drinkers, when once
they become accustomed to its unique flavor, will rarely
be pleased with any other Tea afterwards. The dried
leaf of the choicer grades is small and artistically
made, yellowish-black in color, while the infused leaf is
bright green and uniform. The liquor is of a rich
straw color, its value consisting in a combination of
piquancy, pungency and delicate aroma.

To successfully accomplish the building up of a prof
itable and permanent Tea business three things are
requisite: (1.) The dealer must keep the best Teas
obtainable at the most popular prices. (2.) He must let
the public know by advertising or other means that he
keeps them. (3.) It is also most important that all
standard blends should possess some distinct or char-
acteristic flavor by which it may be readily recognized
by those who use it. But at the same time there is very —
little use in advertising or making known a Tea that does
not possess intrinsic merit, as merit without some publicity
makes but slow headway in these progressive times.

One of the principal objects to keep in view in form-
ing a Tea-blend is that it will come out well in the water
in which it is to be infused; that it shall possess a flavor
that will please the taste of a majority of the customers
and at the same time be of sucha distinctive character
as to make the combination your own particular spe-
cialty. But it must be borne in mind that Teas draw
quite differently in hard and soft water, and the dealer's
object should be to offer only the best possible Tea for
the money expended. He should also avoid those kinds
which are unsuitable to the water of his locality.

ART OF BLENDING TEAS. 89

Soft water has a great advantage over hard in the test-
ing and preparation of Tea for use, so that many parts of
the country possess an advantage over others in the
use of Tea, as wherever the water is soft and pure far
better results are obtained from an infusion of a given
quantity of leaves than can be produced from the hard
water of other sections. This difference arises from the
now well-established fact that soft water dissolves a
greater percentage of the theine—the active principle of
Tea—than hard water, thus causing its properties to be-
come more apparent, the coarseness as well as fineness
being brought out toa greater extent by the action of
the soft water in all cases, and consequently the too
highly-fired and brisk-burnt Teas so much in favor in
some sections of the country for low-priced blends are
not liked at all in the sections where soft water alone is
to be had. For this reason, also, Teas of the Congou
and Souchong order are most appreciated where the
water is soft, as the natural delicacy of their flavor is
best extracted by soft water and in even greater propor-
tions than is the flavor of the other varieties known to
trade.

In testing Teas by infusion or drawing for blending, four
important facts must be borne in mind by the dealer: (z.)
The water used for drawing them should be as soft and pure
as can be obtained or filtered before using. (2.) It must
be boiled as rapidly as possible and used only at the boiling
point, and (3) It must be boiling, but must not overboil,
for should it be allowed to overboil for even a few
minutes it will not extract the full strength and aroma
from the leaves. All Tea experts are most particular on
these points, so much so that they have the kettle watched
in order that the water may be poured on the Tea the

go ART OF BLENDING TEAS.

moment it boils, and if any water remains in the kettle
it is immediately poured away, as the effect of using
water that has been boiled a second time is the same as
that of water that has been permitted to overboil. Should
the buyer, from neglect or indifference, use water that
has not been boiled, the leaves in the cup will float on
top and not sink to the bottom as in the case of boiling
water, and should the water be overboiled or boiled a
second time it will be readily detected by its appearance
in the cup, the infusion being thin and insipid and of a
peculiar, sickly color. (4.) The infusion should be
allowed to draw from four to six minutes, according to
the variety of Tea under treatment, that is, China and
Japan Teas, five to six minutes, while India, Ceylon and
Java Teas require only three to four minutes, owing to
the great excess of tannin which they contain. But all
the properties of the Tea that can be dissolved in the
cup is fully extracted in from three to four minutes, five
to six minutes being generally sufficient for all Teas, as
the infusion is then at its best, but from that time on the
Tea gradually loses its aroma and flavor until, if allowed
to stand for half an hour, it becomes dull and insipid.
Another important point must here be noted by the
dealer, it is that a good Tea becomes better as it cools,
while a poor Tea becomes poorer under the same condi-
tions.

|

The leaves of a choice, pure Tea will be found, after
infusion, to be of a medium and uniform size, perfectly
formed and unbroken and of a bright-green or dark-
brown, according to the kind of Tea tested, that is,
Oolongs, Green and Japan Teas will be greenish, while
Congous, Souchongs, India, Ceylon and Java Teas will
be dark-brown in color. All Teas of the Oolong varieties

ART OF BLENDING TEAS. oI

— a

are subject to the same rules in judging them, and
the same rules that govern in testing Green Teas will
also apply to Japans. While the selection of Indias,
Ceylons and Teas of the China-Congou sorts are also
governed by similar rules in testing and selecting.

Still another important point for the dealer to keep in
mind is the necessity of securing Teas that will draw
well in the water of his district. To aid in this selection
the following kinds are suggested :—

For Very Hard Water—Padrae, Saryune and strong,

“tarry” Oonfa Congous are best, also Indias of the

Aseam variety and heavy-drawing Ceylons, including
broken-leaf Pekoes are best adapted.

For Medium Hard Water—Flavory India Teas,
including Cachars, Darjeeling and Ceylons of all kinds,
first crop Panyongs and rich, thick, round Keemun
Congous, Oolongs, Japans and Green Teas of all grades.

For Soft Water—All varieties and grades of Oolong,
Green, Scented and Japan Teas, Ningchow, Paklin and
Chingwo Congous, light-drawing Indias and Ceylons of
nearly all kinds as well as all descriptions of high-flavored
Teas.

PART WI.

——

ART OF KEEPING, SELLING
AND PREPARING TEA.

HE utmost care is necessary in the keeping and
handling of Teain order to prevent from deterio-
rating in strength and flavor or otherwise decay-

ing until] disposed of. It should therefore whenever
possible be kept by itself in a moderately warm temper-
ature and always covered over until required, and when
any of the packages have been opened and the contents
not all removed, care must be taken to replace the lead
lining, lid and matting, so as to exclude the dust and
damp as well as all foreign odors that may surround it.
For this reason also Tea should never be exposed in
windows or at store-doors where the air, damp and dust
surely and rapidly destroy all semblance to its original
condition. ;

All Teas when once they have ripened and become
seasoned commence to decay, but there is a vast difference
in the time that some varieties will last before the dete-
rioration becomes objectionable in comparison with others.
Some kinds, such as Foochow and Formosa Oolongs,
keeping for a year or more. China Congous and Sou-
chongs and Japan Teas from six to eight months, while

- Scented Teas, India and Ceylon Teas, after a much

94 ART OF KEEPING, SELLING AND PREPARING TEA.

briefer period become dull and brackish, and it frequently
happens that when the latter are a year old they are
worth only half their original cost.

All Teas possessing a natural aptitude to become
impregnated with foreign flavor of any product placed
near it, and to absorb the foul odors by which they may
be surrounded, should be kept as far apart as possible
from any high-smelling articles in the dealer’s stock—
such as soap, fish, spices and oils of all kinds—as they
very rapidly absorb any pungent odors that may be in
their immediate vicinity. And Teas have even been
known to completely alter their flavor and character by
being placed too close to molasses, oranges and lemons,
therefore it becomes important for the dealer not to keep
Teas too near any product emitting a foul or strong
aroma. For this reason also they should not be dis-
pensed out of freshly-painted bins or caddies, it being
much more preferable at all times to deal them out of the
original lead-lined chests, replacing the lid until required.
Again, Teas should never be mixed in rainy, damp or
humid weather, as they are bound to absorb and be
injured by the oxydizing influences of the atmosphere,
nor must they be kept too near a fire or stove, a dry,
cool atmosphere of moderate temperature being always
best for them.

nl

Of the numerous commodities dealt in by the grocer
there is none so important as that of Tea, this impor-
tance being due to its value as a trade-making, trade-re-
taining and profit-producing article, particularly when
furnished of such quality as to give permanent satisfac-
tion to the general public as wel! as to the regular cus-
tomer. But notwithstanding its importance in these

ART OF KEEPING, SELLING AND PREPARING TEA, 95

respects there is no article handled by the grocer the
quality and value of which is so little understood by the
average dealer. Again assailed as the retail grocery busi-
ness now is by keen competition from so many queer
Teas, the necessity for a better knowledge of and more
careful attention to the article is at once apparent if the
grocer—to whom its sale of right belongs—is not to find
the almost entire withdrawal of this article from his line
of business.

To properly understand the selecting and blending of
Teas is therefore to be possessed of a valuable and profit-
able knowledge ; but while such proficiency is not within
the scope of every dealer, the study of these points to
any extent will prove not only lucrative but entertaining
and instructive. And while it may be claimed that such
a study will occupy too much valuable time, or that it is
much more economical to purchase from the wholesale
Tea blender, still the great importance of a better acquaint-
ance with such knowledge and experience must be evi-
dent to the dealer. For the proper blending of Tea the
dealer should be provided with a small kettle and other
apparatus for filtering and boiling the water as conven-
iently and rapidly as possible. Small scales for weighing
the samples of Tea to be tested, pots for drawing and
cups for tasting, and so start from the beginning.

Samples of the Teas desired having been procured from
different houses should then be drawn and tested and a
careful examination made of the leaves of each, their
size, color, condition and smell being closely noted. In
such drawings all Teas of an objectionable character

should be set aside, and those remaining on the boards

carefully arranged in the order of their value ; but should

96 ART OF KEEPING, SELLING AND PREPARING TEA. |
wc teas Uns = ;

any doubt exist in giving a decision between the several |
samples as to their superiority, then the drawing should
be repeated and the poorer ones rejected, thus narrowing _
down the contest to the best Teas. Again, where it
proves difficult to decide between the cup qualities of
those remaining, then the size, style, condition and
weight of the dry leaf should be taken into considera- |
tion, which will be found helpful in making the required |
decision. The decision having been arrived at, however, |
the Tea considered best may also be higher in price than
some others approximating to it in style and drawing
qualities, and if it be found that it cannot be purchased
except at a price considerably higher than others on the
table approaching it closely, it will be better under such
circumstances to select another Tea, grading second, or
even third in quality, at a much lower figure. An excel-
lent plan for the careful Tea blender is to have a “type”
or standard sample of the Tea he desires to duplicateand |
which he has found to be satisfactory, and samples of
Tea of the various kinds of known value should always ~
be kept convenient for reference, and in air-tight tins,
with their grade, price, character, chop mark and year of
production marked thereon.

: 2

AR’?T OF SHELLING ‘TEA,

The dealer having succeeded in selecting and blending
Teas that will please his customers, the next most impor-
tant consideration for him is how best to bring them be-
fore the notice of his trade and the public generally. In
this case he must not treat his Tea as a “ staple ”’ article,
but as an entirely new commodity requiring a special
effort for its introduction. Nothing gives such a bad
impression to Tea customers as careless and slovenly

ART OF KEEPING, SELLING AND PREPARING TEA. 97

packing of Tea. All Tea bags should be of fine quality
and neatly, if not artistically, printed, and great care
should be taken to obtain neatness of appearance in
tying them up. The dealer should also have some spe-
cial and appropriate name for his blends, this brand
appearing prominently on the package, together with
specific instructions for drawing the Tea. Small hand-
bills, brief, pointed and attractive, describing the merits of
the blend may also be placed in every purchase of other
goods and sugar, and other bags or wrappers should con-

_ tain special notices so that they may reach others who
do not buy Tea, and the clerks or salesmen should also
be instructed to talk up the Tea frequently but judiciously
as possible.

The dealer should ascertain where customers for
other goods get their Tea, what variety or grade it is,
what price they pay for it, and, if possible, obtain a
sample of it. Then test it carefully and be prepared to
show that he can not only match it, but furnish a better
one in both price and quality, giving them samples at the
same time to prove it. And again, if a tea customer
should quit dealing suddenly he should immediately
find out the cause and endeavor to remedy it. He
should also send out samples occasionally throughout
the neighborhood of a line of Teas that he may deem
suitable to the locality. But above and beyond all other
efforts to increase his Tea trade, he should handle only
high-grade Teas, endeavoring at all times to prove that
the finer Teas are the most economical and satisfactory
to purchase in the end, as the finer grades yield a larger
margin of profit to the dealer and better satisfaction to
the consumer, while it has a tendency to create favorable

comment and win an increasing Tea trade.

98 ART OF KEEPING, SELLING AND PREPARING TE\.

Latterly, a new development in the Tea trade has, to
the surprise and loss of the older generation of retail
grocers and Tea dealers, assumed quite a prominence,
for, if the glowing advertisements and startling placards
in stores and on fences form any criterion, the public
are taking a liking to the cheap and trashy-blended Teas
put up in tins, lead, paper and other Tea-deteriorating
packages under fancy names which have no relation
whatever to the variety, district or country where they
are grown, it being an acknowledged principle that Teas
blended in bulk and put back again in their original
lead-lined chests undoubtedly keep better, preserving its
strength and flavor longer than when exposed to the
oxydizing influences of the atmosphere during its trans-
ference to the tin, lead or paper packets ornamented with
a cheap and showy label, which the more gorgeous they
are the more apt to communicate the taste of the ink,
paste, glue or other foul-smelling material in which it is
packed to the Tea they are intended to adorn.

And still another reason why the Grocer and Tea
dealer should avoid these blended packet Teas is that
the cost of the packages, labels and labor, adds from
eight to ten cents per pound to the original price of the
Tea, in addition to the cost of advertising and flaunting
them before the eyes of the public, an expense which is
simply enormous in itself, and which the dealer and
consumer must eventually pay for, either by a higher
price or inferior quality of the Tea. Again, engaged as
most dealers are at the present time in trying to stop the
plague of all sorts of proprietary goods put up in cheap
and oftentimes ill-smelling packages, which yields them
so little profit and makes them only the servants of the
packers, it is astonishing, to say the least, that any

ART OF KEEPING, SELLING AND PREPARING TEA. 99

dealer can be found to adopt the same system with Tea
when they can put up some favorite blend, and pack it
themselves in cleaner, cheaper and more stylish packages,
if their customers should desire it in that form, and sell
them under their own brand and name, and not work to
make money and a reputation for others who dictate to
him as to what he shall or shall not do with regard to
selling Teas. For instance, you are paying 43 cents for
Package Tea with premiums, if you handle it. You sell
this Tea at 60 cents, making 17 cents per pound profit.
Now by putting up your own blend and giving your
own premiums you can buy just as good Tea, or better,
for 20 cents per pound. You can buy just as good
premiums to stand you 12 cents per pound, making 32
cents instead of 43, or a saving of I1 cents or 33% per
cent. Besides, you control your own Tea trade and
have the adyertising free.

The art of selling Tea is even a much more difficult
one than that of buying, owing to the numerous different
and varying tastes to be catered to. For this reason
alone the dealer should learn all he possibly can about
the article, in order that he may be enabled to suit each
particular liking and at the same time answer any and all
questions about it intelligently. Find out what grade
and variety as well as the desired strength and flavor of
the Tea your customers prefer, and occasionally give
them small samples of the different blends to try until
you have caught their taste. Make a note of same, and
always afterwards endeavor to give them as near the
same kind and quality. Talk up your Teas in a clear

and practical manner, and be sure your scales, weights

and scoops are always clean and shining, and keep a
small memorandum book in which to mark the kind and

:

4
:
4

I00)6=0—s AREF. OF KEEPING, SELLING AND PREPARING TEA.

|
retail prices of your Teas, the date in which the caddie |
has been filled and the quantity it holds, as this method —
gives an accurate idea of the quantity of Tea sold in a
certain time, which will be found particularly useful when |
Blended Teas are largely sold.

In brief, advertise your Teas freely but judiciously and ©
modestly, never claiming too much for them, that is, let
your advertisements be brief but novel, and change the
same at least once per week, and always push your high-
grade Teas first, last and all the time. Now and then
give a Tea-testing exhibit in your store by fixing up a
space near the door or window as a Tea-room surrounded |
by Tea-boxes with fancy faces, hanging some Chinese or |
Japanese lanterns around with which to light up at night
to attract attention. Inside of which place a small Tea-
table, a small gas stove, with kettle and cups for drawing
the Tea. By this means the dealer will be enabled to
prepare fresh-made Tea at all times, with fresh-boiled ©
water, of any kind the customer may desire to taste or
to push the sale of any particular blend he may desire
to introduce among his trade. But it is advisable at
these exhibits to use only fine Teas, using the common
grades only by way of comparison. By this means the
dealer can conveniently and readily point out to the cus-
tomer the great advantages to be gained and economy of —
purchasing only high-grade Teas. Instruct your patrons |
meantime how to properly prepare Tea for use, emphasiz- |
ing the fact that Tea must be brewed and not stewed, as is —
too often the case among consumers. {

ne

as si

a

ART OF PREPARING TEA ROR USE.

It is singular, to say the least, that nothing is ever done
by Tea dealers in this country to educate or enlighten |

ART OF KEEPING, SELLING AND PREPARING TEA, Io!

their customers in the proper manner of preparing their
Tea for use, to study the character of the water or to
preserve its aromatic properties after purchasing. Good
Tea, like good wine, can be kept intact for years with
considerable advantage to the dealer and consumer alike,
and there is no valid reason why consumers of Tea
should not be as particular and fastidious as drinkers of
wine. But to obtain a good cup of Tea, in the first place
the consumer should purchase only the best Tea, it
requiring much less of the finer grades to make good
Tea than of the common kinds, and will prove the most
economical in the end.

In the proper preparation of Tea for use, the quality
of the infusion is much affected also by the character of
the water as well as by the method of making or draw-
ing it. Tea being an z#fuston and not a decoction like

_ coffee, it should be drewed not stewed, the chief object
| being to extract as much of the dheive or refreshing
_ principle as possible and as little of the éazuzx or astrin-

gent property as can be, at the same time without either
boiling or overdrawing it. Many Tea drinkers who

_ imagine erroneously that a very dark-colored liquor indi-

cates strength boil the leaves, while others again spoil
the infusion by first putting the leaves in boiling water.

_ Some again place the leaves in cold water, and then put
" the vessel on the fire to boil, prolonged infusion being
another serious mistake. All of these improper methods
| produce the same evil results, viz., that of extracting an

increased amount of the tannin, thereby destroying the
true color and flavor of the Tea by imparting a blackish
color and giving a bitter or astringent taste to the liquor.

- When Tea has been once boiled or overdrawn, the
increased quantity of tannin extracted can be readily

102 ART OF KEEPING, SELLING AND PREPARING TEA.

detected by the extreme dark color of the liquor as well |

as by its bitterly astringent flavor. Another reprehensible
practice of some Tea makers is that of adding fresh
leaves into the tea pot with those that have been already
once drawn, as it cannot add to either the strength or
flavor of the Tea by putting more leaves in the tea pot
after the first drawing, for the simple reason that the Tea
water will not extract the ¢hezue from the dry leaves of —
the fresh Tea. Only fresh boiling water will do this
effectually, the water once used only increases the amount
of zannin extracted, thereby darkening the color and
destroying the flavor and merely adds to the quantity of
leaves already in the vessel without at all affecting the
active principle, theine. So that if it be required to
increase the quantity or strength of the infusion already
in the pot, some fresh Tea leaves must be drawn ina
separate vessel and the liquor poured in that already
made.

In the proper preparation of Tea for use, therefore,
the object should be to extract as little of the tannin as
possible and as much of the theine and volatile oil as
can be extracted without permitting the infusion to boil
or overdraw. To best obtain these most desirable re-
sults, put the requisite quantity of Tea leaves in a
covered china or earthenware pot—all tin and metal
vessels should be avoided—and pour in freshly boiling
water that has been boiling for at least three minutes,
and then allow the vessel to stand where it will keep hot,
witHouT doling, for from eight to ten minutes before
serving, according to the variety of Tea used. There
will be a sparkle and aroma about Tea made from fresh ~
boiling water in this manner that it will not receive
from the flat, hot water that has been boiled too long or

ART OF KEEPING, SELLING AND PREPARING TEA. 103

repeatedly. In the stated time while the Tea is drawing
only the refreshing and exhilarating properties—the
theine and volatile oil—are extracted from the leaves, a
longer infusion only dissolving and extracting the
astringent and deleterious principle—tannic acid—which ~
impairs digestion and injures the nervous system, for
which causes alone all boiled or overdrawn Tea should
be avoided.

An earthern tea pot made of Minton, Doulton, or
Satsuma ware, is the best kind of vessel to prepare Tea
in, but it must first be scalded out with boiling water
before putting the Tea leaves in and then set on the
range or stove to dry and keep hot for a few minutes.
The Tea leaves are then put in, after which they are also
allowed to heat for a short time before the boiling water
is poured on them, from eight to ten minutes before the
Tea is required for use. The character of the water also
greatly influences the quality of the Tea, it being almost
next to impossible to make good Tea with hard water,
so that soft water should always be used when available,
and any excess of lime in the water also deteriorates the
infusion. But this latter difficulty may be easily
remedied by the judicious addition of a little carbonate
of soda, as much as will cover the face of a dime being
sufficient for an ordinary drawing of Tea.

In moderate strength it requires about one teaspoon-
ful of good tea to a half pint of boiling water and an or-
dinary half teacupful of leaves to every quart of boiling
water, the latter making a fairly strong infusion for five
persons. China and Japan Teas require from eight to
ten minutes to draw thoroughly, the former requiring
but little milk and sugar, while Japan Teas are more

104 ART OF KEEPING, SELLING AND PREPARING TEA.

palatable without the addition of either. India Ceylon and
Java Teas generally should not be allowed to draw more
than from five to seven minutes at the outside after the
boiling water has been poured on, as prolonged infusion
makes the flavor of these varieties particularly mawkish
and bitter, while the addition of an extra quantity of both
milk and sugar greatly improves their drinking qualities.

JOSEVA MN. WALSH

(America’s Greatest Tea Expert.—Journal of Commerce)

IMPORTER OF

ALL VARIETIES AND. GRADES

?HILADELPHIA, U. S. A.

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