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IN TME CUSTODY OF THE
BOSTON PUBLIC LIBRARY.
SHELF N°
ADAMS,
103, 1'f
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Jr/pri Jc/riiuJ
THE
rHEORT iciA PRACTICE
O F
BREWING,
By MICHAEL COMBRUNE, Brbwer.
Printed with Permiffion of the M a st £ r. Wardens, and Court of
Assistants of the Worfhipful Company of BREWERS.
LONDON:
Printed by J. Haeirkorn.
Sold by R. and J. Dodsley in Pall-Mall; T. Becket and
P. A. de HoNDT at Tully's Head in the Strand : and
T. Longman in Pater-Nofter Row.
M D C C L X H.
v I
< . .••
77)is Book is entered at Stationers Hall, and
every Copy is ftgned by the Author.
T O
DOCTOR PETER SHAW
PHYSICIAN to his MAJESTY,
Fellow of the Royal College of Physicians of London,
and of the Royal Society.
SIR,
TH E brewing of malt liquors has hitherto been con.
ducked by fuch vague traditional maxims, that an
attempt to eftabliili it's pradice on truer and more
fixed' principles, muft, like every new eflay, be attended
with difficulties.
Your works, Sir, will be lafling monuments, not only of
your great abilities, but alfo of your zeal for tlie improve-
ment
ment of the arts, nmnufadlures and commerce of your
country. You will therefore permit me to place, under your
patronage, this treatife, which, if it can boaft no other me-
rit, has that, of having been undertaken and finifhed by
your advice and council.
Some favor, I hope, will be fhewn for this diftant en-
deavour, to imitate the laudable example you have fet, and
whatever be the fuccefs, I (hall ever glory in the op-
portunity it has given me, of profefling myfelf publickly,
SI R,
Your ntoft obedienty
and mofi ohjiged humble Servant^
Hampftead, Middlefex,
December 15, lySl' j
MICHAEL COMBRUNE.
THE
CONTEiNTS
PART I.
Explanation of technical terms. p. i
SECTION 1.
Of Fire.
'3
SECTION
II.
Of Air.
17
SECTION
III.
Of Water,
22
SECTION
IV.
Of Earth.
29
SECTION
V.
Of the Tkermometer.
30
SECTION
VI.
Of the Vine, its
fruits and juices.
40
SECTION
VII.
Of fermentation
in general.
49
SECTION
VIII.
Of artificial fermentation.
62
SECTION
IX.
Of the nature of Barley.
71
SECTION
X.
Of Malting.
a
76
SECTION
iv CONTENTS.
S E C T I ON XI.
Of the different properties of Malt. P* 9^
SECTION XII.
Obfervations on defeSlive Malts. 105
PART 11.
S E C T I O N I.
Of the heat of the Air, gs it relates to the praSlical part of
Brewing. ' 120
SECTION n. ,
Of Grinding. .131
SECTION III.
0/ Ext ration. 1^2
SECTION IV.
Of the nature and properties of Hops. 1 65
s E c T r O N V.
Of the lengths necejary to form Malt Liquors of the fever al deno-
minations. 177
SECTION VI.
Method »f calculating the height in the Copper at which Worts are
to go out. 180
SECTION VII.
Of Bailing. 184
SECTION
CONTENTS.
SECTION VIII.
Oj the quantity of Water wafled-^ and of the application of the pre-
cedent rules to two different proceffes of brewing. p. igo
SECTION IX.
Of the divifion of the Water, for the refpeSiive Worts, and MaJJ:>es,
and of the heat adequate to each of tbcfe. 1 94
SECTION X.
An enquiry into the ijolume of Malt , in order to reduce the
grijl to a common meafure. 203
SECTION XI.
OJ the proportion of cold ivater , to be added to that "which is
boiling-, in order to obtain the dejired heat in the extraB. 2 1 9
SECTION XII.
Of Mafjing. 231
SECTION XIII.
Of the Incidents, which caufe the heat of the extraSl to vary from
ike calculation, the allowances they require, and the means to
obviate their effeSls. 234
SECTION XIV.
Of the difpoftion cj the Worts when turned out of the Copper, the
thicknfs they P^ould be laid at in the backs to cool, and the heat
they jhould retain for fermentation^ under the fever al circum-
flances. 247
SECTION XV.
Of Teaji, its nature and contents, and of the manner and quanti-
ties, in which it is tc be added to the worts, 252
SECTION
vi CONTENTS.
SECTION XVI.
Of praSiicalfermentattony and the 7nanagement of the fever al malt
liquors y to the period at which they are to be deanfed or put into
the cafki. p. 258
SECTION XVII.
Of the figm generally employed in the precejfes of brewing, and their
comparijon with the foregoing Theory and Pratlice. 266
SECTION XVIII.
An enquiry into what may be, at all times, a proper Stock of
Beer, and the management of it in the Cellars. 269
SECTION XIX.
Of Precipitation and other Remedies, applicable to the difeafes in-
cident to Beers. 2.yi
SECTION XX.
OfTaJle, 279
Appendix, 2 15
® # ® @ ^
^ '^ ^ ^
m
THE
PREFACE.
^T'HE difference that appears in the feveral proceffes of brew-
ing, though executed with the fame materials, by the Jame
perfons, and to the fame intent, is generally acknowlrdged. The
uncafinefs this mufi cecafton to thofe, who are charged with the di~
reSii've part of the bufinefs, caiinot be fnall : and, the more de-
Jirous they are of well executing the charge incumbent on them, the
greater is their difappointment , when frufl rated in their hopes. To
renlQve this uncertainty, no fnethod feems preferable to that of ex-
periment, as it is that alone, which can eftablijl) this, and any
other art, upon a folid foundation. But thofe, who have the cou-
rage, and grudge neither time nor expence, to multiply and to vary
their trials, too often acquire the name of idle refiners, and, what
isworfe, too frequently deferve it. The operations of nature elude
fuperficial enquiries. Where we ' have few or no principles J or
our guides^ many experiments are made, which tend only to con-
found or deceive. Effects feen, withut a fufficient knowledge of
their caufes, mufi often be negleBed or viewed in an improper light j
thoje that are remembered are feldom faithfully reported^ and, for.
want of difiinguijhing the feveral circumfiances that attend them^
become the fupport of old prejudices, or the foundation of new
enes.
Whoever is attentive to the praSlical part of brewing will foon
he convinced, that heat, or fire, is the principal agent therein, as this
A element
ii 77j^ preface.
element u.f;d in a greater or lefs degree^ and differently applied, is
the occajion of the greatejl part of the variety we perceive. "Tis
but a few years fince the thermometer has been found to be an in-
jlrument fufficientiy accurate for any purpofes, where the meafure
of heat is required. And as it is the only one, with which we
are enabled to examine the procejfes cf brewing, and to account Jor
the difference in the effeSlSy a theory of the art founded onpraSiice
mujl be of later date than it.
So long fince as the year 1 74 r , / began this enquiry, and ne-
ver negledled any opportunity to confult the artifts of the trade, or
to try fuch experiments as I conceived might be conducive to my
purpofe. It is needle fs, perhaps Jloameful, to mention their number y
or to fpeak of the many dif appoint tnents I met with in this purfuit.
Jlt lafl, flattering myfelf with having colleBed the true theory,
affifled and encouraged by men of abilities, 1 thought it fit the pub-
lick JJjould judge whether 1 had fucceeded in my endeavours, and in
1758 tlie Effay on brewing was fubmitted to them^ either for
their approbation, or that the errors therein might be pointed out.
I have had no reafon to repent of my temerity, fince the novelty, more
perhaps than the merit of this performance, has engaged the atten-
tion, I may add, the favor of fome good judges. They have al-
lowed my principles to be, at leaf, plaufible, and their agreement
with praBice has fince repeatedly convinced me, that they could not
he far from truth.
The EJJ ay jiijl mentioned, revifed and correSled, naturally forms
thefirfi part or theory of the prefent treatife. 1 he fecond part is in-
tirely praSlical. After giving a fhort idea of the whole procefs, 1
re-
lis PREFACE. ilr
re fume its different branches in as many chapters, and endt-a-Tsour t$
lead thepraSlitioner by the hand, fo that he may, in every part, at
all times, and under a variety ofcircumjlances, knew what he is
to do, and never be difappwited in his obje£l. As hopi are much
more unjlable in their prices than many other commodities, a rule
is attempted to direB the purchafing of them, Tables JJxwing
the lengths oj all forts of beers and ales,, to be made at all
the different prices expeSfed, and the profits accruing therefrom are,
for the fame reafons, exhibited. Previous to any brewing, I fo^
how to afcertain numerically the proper heat for every mafJ.\ the
means to obtain fuch a heat, and lafily, the true quantities of
water ncceffary for this end. Wafle of fuel or of labour will,
by this means, be prevented. I examine how long worts are to boil,
the heat they are to arrive at in order to ferment, what quantity of
yeafi is necefjary to forward this operation, and by what rules the
artifi may be enabled to brew, in coppers of any dimeifions, as foo?i
as the gauges thereof are delivered to him, every kind of malt li-
quor, and efpecialiy pale ales or amber, where the art may be f aid
to be carried to its greatefl height.
As much damage enfties from cellars not being attended to, a me-
thod of determining the proper flocks for them cannot be thought
ufelej's. Beers may incidentally be liable to difeafes, either by neg-
leSl, by being ufed too foon, or by being too long kept, and there are
few houfes, dealing in porter, that do not experience how dearly they
pay for the remedies applicable to fuch cafes. As the fervants to
whom they apply for that purpfe, are no ways acquainted with
the proportions of the confiituent parts of beer s^ or with the effects
A a re-
iV 77^^ P R E F A C E.
4'ejulttng therefrom J it has been thought a duty to dtfclofe this lit-
tle fciencey that the perfons concerned may relieve themfthes,
and to ingredients, cjten inefficacious, fometimes hurtful, Jubjlitute
fuch as are wholcfome, and at the fame time the mofl condu-
cive to their purpofe.
To prevent errors is a means of rendering remedies ufelefs,
at leafl lefs expenfive. As the principal 'view and intent of this
work is to purfue the methods of obtai?iing fine and pellucid
beers, and of brewing them fo, that the whole of the fermentable
parts of the malt may be extraSled and the liquor become fit for
ufe at the defired feafon, the expence of ifmglafs ufed for brown
beers mujl be greatly lefjened, atid the train of noflrums fo gene-
rally applied by coopers in great mcafure avoided', the beer will
he poffefed of all the Jlrength it is fufceptible of, the expence of ever
large Jlqfks become needlejs, and the weight of what in the brew-
ery is termed an hofpltal, by this means, removed.
' ■ Info extenfive a branch of bufmefs, fome benefit mifl accrue to
the publick, from its being carried on in a juft and uniform man-
ner, and our malt liquors will better deferve the name of wine.
Boerhaave, Shaw, Alacquer, and mojl of the great majlers
in chemi/iry are Jar from limiting that name fo the liquors pro-
duced from the juice (f the grape ; they extend it to all fermented
vegetable juices, which, on dijlillation, yield aji ardent fpirit,
■and look on the frength and faculty wine has to cherijh nature, and
prsferve itfelf, to be in proportion to the quantity it poffeffes of this
liquid generally termed fpirit of wine. This, when thoroughly
pure and dcphlegmated, is one and the fame, whatever different
vege.
rfjz PREFACE.
vegetable it is produced from. Barley wines pojfefs the fume
fpirituous principle, "which is the pre/erva five part of the tnojl va-
luable foreign wines, with a power of being brewed fuperior or in'-
Jerior to them in quality, and the other conftituent parts of beer;
be fide the ardent fpirit jiijl mentioned, will not, I believe, be efteemed
lefs whokfome, than thofe which make up the whole of grape wine.
The rcafons why Great-Britain hath not hitherto furnified fo-
reign nations with this part of her produSl, but more efpecially
ber feamen, are obvious. Our mariners, when at home, do not
diflike beer, either ai to their palates or its effeSis on their, con-
(litution ; but, when abroad, fpirituous liquors, or new wines,
often the produSl of an enemy s country, arefubflituted in lieu there-
of. It is a principal duty in all commanders of fJnps to maintain
their people in health, at the eafiejl expence. The difufe of beers,
on thefe occafions, has been owing to the imcertainty of the prin-
ciples by which they were brewed; the maintaitiing them found, in
long voyages and in hot climates, could not he fiificiently depended
upon ; and it was alfo ^fuppofed that they could not be procured at
fo eafy a rate as wines, brandies, or rums are pur chafed abroad,
The firft of thcfe objeSlions the author hopes, by this work, to re-
move;'and, were all the duties to be allowed on what would be brew-
ed for thii purpofe, our feamen might be furnijloed with beer
Jlronger than SpaniJJi wine, and at a Lfs expence, the mean
prices of malt and hops being taken for fevcn ytars. It is true
that, in times of peace, the feamen in his Majejlfs fervice are not
very numerous, but the number of thofe then employed by the mer-
chants is very confiderable. Ijloould not have prefumed to mention
this.
V4 7h2 P Pv E F A C E.
thii^ but becaufe of the encouragement that is given to the exporta-
tion of corn and to the ufe of fails of Britijh manufadlure. It is
computed that, in England and Pfales, are brewed three milUofis five
hundred thoufand quarters of malt yearly, for which purpofe up-
ivards of one hundred and ff teen thoufand weight of hops are ufed.
*The fcheme here propofed might become a means of encreafmg the
(onfumption of the growth of our country, viz. of barley, to more
than one hundred thoufand quarters, and of hops to between four-
teen and fifteen thoufand weight annually.
Whether this be an objeSl deferving the attention of the legifiative
power, or of the landed inter efi, and what might be the proper means
to put it fucceffidly in proBice, are confiderations which do not
belong to this place; it being fufficient here to point out, how
univerfally beneficial it is to efiablijh the art of brewing on true and
invariable principles.
'This being the firfi attempt, that has been made, to reduce this
art to rules and principles, the Author hopes he has ajuft claim to the
indulgence of the public, for any errors he unwillingly may have
adopted, and far from believing that there is no room left for future
improvements, he recommends it to thofe, who, bleffed with fuperior ta-
lents and more leifure than himfelf, may be inclined to try their skill
in the fame field, to follow clofely the fieps of '^atmki., and not to
txpe£i (ver to overtake her.
A Copy
A Cop7 of Doctor Shaw's Letter, on pe-
rufing the Essay beforementioned.
Dear Sir,
/ have^ with pleafure and improvement, read over
your manufcript ; and Jhoud be glad to fee fome
other trades as jujlly reduced to rules as you have done
that of brewing : which would not only be making a
right application of philofl-hical knowledge, but, at the
fame time, accofnmodate human life, in many refpeSfSy
wherein it is fill deficient. Perhaps your example may
excite fome able men^ to give us their refpeSiive tra-
des, in the form of fo many arts. For my own party
having long wif>ed to fee fome attempts of this kind, for
the good of fociety in general, I cannot but he particu-
larly pleafed with the nature, deftgn, and execution of
your EJfay, and am.
Dear Sir,
Your obliged Friend,
Pall-Mall, July 20,
*7s8. and humble Servant,
PETER SHAW.
( i^ )
INTRODUCTION.
AN enquiry into the antiquity of the art of brewing would
certainly be a curious, but, I fear, a very ufelefs refearch.
In all probability, the inhabitants of the northern co\intrics,
foon after they fettled there, found out a method of obtaining a
liquor from grain, fimilar to wine, and indeed the mention
of beers, or barley-wines, by fome hiftorians, who treat of the
colder parts of the globe, where grapes will not ripen, feems
to put this matter beyond doubt. However we have no reafon
to believe that they arrived at any great degree of perfedlion
in their art ; for though the brewer's company at London
were incorporated in the year 1427, and a company of the
fame nature was eftablifhed in France, many years before, yet it
is certain, there was no good beer, either in France, or even
in England, till much later.
The bufinefs of brewing formerly was, and now generally is,
in the hands of men unacquainted with chemiftry, and not
confcious ihcit their art has any relation to that fciencc,
though it is in reality a confiderable branch of it. For
want of a due knowledge of the elements and inftruments
necefTary in brewing, and from never once imagining, that
a there
X INTRODUCTION.
there were certain fixed and invariable principles, on which
they ought to proceed, the advances the brewers made in their
art could not but be flow.
In the reign of queen Elizabeth, malt began to be better
made, and hops to he ufed ; by the addition of thefe, the li-
quor was capable of being longer kept, and acquired the
advantage of being meliorated by time. The fuperiority of
thefe two vegetables, over all others, for the purpofes of brew-
ing, being known and afcertained , the legiilativc power
prohibited the ufc of any thing elfe in the compolition of beer.
This law was certainly of the greatelt utility; by it, all fophiftica-
tion was prevented, and our beers became the bcft in Europe.
But ftill a great difference, in point of excellency, was obferved in
the fame, but chiefly in diflerent, places ; this was in a great
meafure owing to a want of principles and rules to diredt the ar-
tifls, according to the variations of the malt in point of drynefs,
or of the feafons of the year in that of heat. The fame fault ftill
fubfifls, the Thermometer not being more generally ufed, an
inflrum^nt, which, as it is now brought to perfecfiion, for the
afcertaining the value of the degrees of heat, is the only one
which the brewer can with certainty govern himfelf by.
The defigns of all brewers are ; i . To extraft the fermen-
table parts of the malt, in the moft perfed manner. 2. To
add hops in fuch proportion, as experience teaches them will
preferve and meliorate the beer. And, 3. To employ fuch a pro-
portion of yeaft, as is fufficient to obtain a complete fermentation.
Perhaps
INTRODUCTION. xi
Perhaps it will be faid, that thefc three particulars are already
fiifliciently underftood, and that it would be a much more ufc-
ful work, to publifli remedies for the imperfedions or difeafes,
that beer is naturally or accidentally fubje<3: to, and which at
prefcat are deemed incurable, fuch as cloudinefs, &c. But
if the three defigns, above laid down, be executed according
to the rules of clicmilhy, fuch remedies will not be wanted ;
for beer brewed upon true principles is, neither naturally nor
accidentally, fubjcdl to cloudinefs, nor to many other diforderj
often perceived i_n it. Hence it is evident, that fome know-
ledge of chemiftry is abfolutely neceflary to complete the
brewer, as, without the informations acquired from that fciencc,
he muft be unqualified to lay down rules for his pradice,
and to fecure to himfelf the favor of the publick.
From true principles fuch a method of brewing in winter,
may be deduced, that the beer fliall be lit for ufe, at any
limited period of time, and in fummer, the procefs be
carried on with more fucccfs than it generally is, I do
not mean to infinuate that brewing can be better executed in
fummer than in winter; but only that, if neceffity requires it,
the operation may be performed, to a fallicient degree of per-
ffdion, and much longer than isufual, in the firil: of thefe feafons.
Before we proceed, it may be neceflary,or atleafl: convenient, to
explain fome few terms, and to trace the j^ropertiesof fiie, air and
water,as far as they relate tobrewing. I have not fcrupled to make
ufe of all the affiflance I pofiibly could obtain, from the authors,
a 2 who
xii INTRODUCTION.
who have treated of thefe fubjc<5ts ; and v.henever I diflent
from them, it is becaufe, to my apprehenfion, nature evi-
dently does fo too. The reader is Hkewife delired (o obferve,
that this Eflay is notdefigned to inform the learned in che-
miftry, nor do I pretend to exhauft thefe fubjeds, but .only
to fay as much of them as is neceffary for a brewer to know.
AN
*,\ •.*
A N
EXPLANATION
' O F T H E
TECHNICAL TERMS,
(ft'*^**f***^>> S the principal objcft of tliis treatife is to be
^t J^ **j* ufcful to thofe concerned in the pradical part of
^1 tif brewing, to fave them the labour of any farther
<^ «3'"?s^ enquiry, it has been thought advifiible to avoid,
as much as poffible, the terms of art, and to prefix an ex-
planation of thofe that nccefTarily occur.
Acids are all thofe things, which tafte four, as vinegar, juice
of lemons, fpirit of nitre, fpirit of fait, 6cc. and are put in a
violent agitation, by being mixed with certain earths, or tlie
afhes of vegetables. An acid enters, more or lefs, into the
compoiition of all plants, and is produced ]by, or rather is the
laft effed of, fermentation. Mixed in a due proportion with an
alkali, it conftitutes a neutral fait, that is, a fait, wherein neither
the
An Explanation
the acid nor alkali prevail. Acids are frequently termed acid falls,
though generally they appear under a fluid form.
Alkalies, or alkaline falts, are of a nature diredlly
contrary to the acids, and generally manifeft themfelves by cffer-
vefcing therewith: they have an urinous tafte, and are produced
from the aflies of vegetables, and by feveral other means. They,
as well as tcftaccous and calcarious fubftances, arc frequently
made ufe of by coopers to abforb the acid parts of ftale beer,
and this they csW frftning.
Air is a thin elaftic fluid, furrounding the globe of the
earth; it is abfolutely neceffary to the prefervation, both of
animal and vegetable life.
Alcohol is the pure fpirit of wine, without the leaft
particle of water or phlegm.
Animals are organized bodies, endued with fenfation
and life. Adinerals are faid to grow and increafe, plants (o grow
and live, but animals only to have fenfation. Animal fubftanccs
cannot ferment fo as to produce by themfelves a vinous liquor;
but there may be cafes, wherein fome of their parts rather help
than retard the aft of fermentation.
Ativios?here is that vafl: colledion of air, with which
the earth is furrounded to a confiderable height.
Attraction is an indefinite term, applicable to all
adlions whereby bodies tend towards one another, whether by
virtue
Of th& Technical Terms.
virtue of their weight, magnetifm, elcdricity, or any o;her
power. It is not therefore the canfe determining fome bodies to
approach one another, that is expref^ed by the wora attrac^ ion,
but the efFeft itfelf. The fpace, through which this power ex-
pends, is called the jpbere of attraSiion.
Blacking is a technical term ufcd by coopers, to denote
fugar that is calqined, until it obtains the colour that occafions
the name. From it's acidity it is thought to be of fome help to
cloudy beers, and from it's colour is in part a means of hiding
the defedt.
Brewing is the operation of preparing beers and ales
from malt.
Boiling may thus be accounted for. The minute particles
of fliel, being by fire detached from each other, and becoming
themfelves fire, pafs through the pores of the veflcl, and mix.
with the fluid. Thcfe, being perpetually in an adtive ftate,
communicate their motion to the water : hence arifcs, at
firlt, a fmall inteftine motion, and from a continued adien
in the firft caufe, the effedl is encreafed, and the motion of
the liquor continually accelerated; by degrees, it becomes
fenfibly agitated, but the particles of the fire, a<5ting chiefly
on the particles, that compofe the loweft furface of the water,
give them an impulfe upwards, by rendering them fpccifically
lighter, fo as to determine them to afcend according to the laws
of equilibrium. Hence there is a conftant flux of water from
the bottom to the top of the vefTel, and reciprocally from the
top.'
An Explanation
top to the bottom. This appears to be the reafon why water is
hot at the top fooner than at the bottom, and why an equal heat
cannot be diftributed through the whole. The thermometer
therefore can be of little fervice, to determine immediately the
degree of heat, efpecially in large veffels, on which account
it is better for brewers to heat a certain quantity juft to the
adt of boiling, and to temper it, by adding a fufficient quantity
of cold water. Boiling water is incapable of receiving any
increafe of heat, though aded on by ever fo great a fire, unlefs
the atmofphere becomes heavier, or the vapours of the water
be confined. It occafions the mercury to rife, according to
Farenhcit's fcale, to 2 1 2 degrees.
Cleansing is the a£l of removing the beer from the ton,
where it was firft fermented, into the cafks.
Cloudy is an epithet joined to fuch beers, as, from the
violent heat which has been given to the water, with which
they were brewed, are loaded with more oils, than can be at-
tenuated by fermentation, and incorporated with the wat^r.
A muddy and grey oil is fecn lioatlng on the furface of the
beer, thwJgh the body of the liquor is often tranfparent; this
oil is frequently collected in great quantity, and exceeds the
power of any known menftruum.
Cohesion is that aftion, by which the particles of the
fame body adhere together, as if they were but one.
Cold is a relative term in oppofition to heat. Its greatell
degree is not known, and it is fuppofed diat the colder a body
is, the lefs is the agitation of it's internal parts.
Colour
Of the Technical Terms.
Colour ; A greater or lefs degree of heal caufes different
colours in moil bodies, and from a due obfervation of t2)e colour
of malt, we may determine what degree of heat it has been
impreffed with.
Density cxpreffes the clofenefs, compadnefs, or near
approach of the parts of a body to one another : the more a
body weighs in proportion to its bulk, the greater is its denfitv.
Gold is the denfeft body in nature, becaufe there is none known
of the fame bulk, which weighs fo much.
Earth, is that foiTil matter or element, whereof our globe-
partly confills. '
Ebullition is the boiling or bubbling of water, or any
other liquor, when the fire has forced itfclf a pafTage through it.
Brewers fuppofc water to be jufl beginning to boil, when they
perceive a fmall portion of it forced from the bottom upwards
in a right line, fo as to dillurb the furface : when the liquor
is in this flate, they call it, througl\ or upon the point of ebul-
lition. The vulgar notion that the water is hotter at this term
than when it boils, is without any foundation.
Effervescence is a fudden agitation, ariiing in certain
bodies upon mixing them together ; this agitation mofl com-
monly generates heat.
Elasticity, or fpringinefs, is that property of bodies, by
which they reftorc themfelves to their former figure, after any
prefluxe or diflenfion.
B Expansion,
An Explanation
Expansion is the fweHina; or encreafe of the bulk of
bodies, from heat, or any other caufe.
Extract conlifts of the parts of a body feparated from the
reft, by cold or hot water, and, upon the evaporation of the
fluid, remaining in the veffel.
Fermentation is a fenfible Internal motion of the par-
ticles of a mixture : by the continuance of this motion, the
particles are gradually removed from their former fituation, and,
after fome vilible feparation, joined together again in a dif-
ferent order and arrangement, fo as to conftitute a new com-
pound. No liquors are capable of inebriating, except thofe
that have been fermented.
Fixed Bodies are thofe, which, confining of grofler
parts, cohering by a flrong attraction, and by that means
lefs fufceptible of agitation, can, neither be feparated nor
raifed, without a ftrong heat, or perhaps not without fer-
mentation.
Fire is only known by its properties, of which the chief
are to penetrate and dilate all folid and fluid bodies.
Freezing Point is the degree of cold, at which water
begins to be formed into ice, which according to Farenheit's
fcale is exprefled by 32.
Foxed is a technical terra, ufed by brewers, to indicate beers
in a putrid flate.
Gums,
0///^5 Technical Terms.
Gums are concreted vegetable juices, v/hich tranfude thro*
the bark of certain trees and harden upon the furface, they
eafily dilToIvc in water, and by that means dillinguilh them-
feh'es from balfams or relins.
Hermetically Sealed is a particular way of flopping the
mouth of veffcls, fo clofe, that the moft fubtil fpirit cannot
riy out, which is done by heating the neck of the bottles, till
it is juft ready to melt, and then with a pair of hot pinchers
by twifling it clofe together.
Homogeneous is an appellation given to fuch parts or fub-
jeds, which are fimilar or of the fame nature and properties.
Isinglass is a preparation from a fifli called hufo, fomc-
what bigger than the fturgeon; a foludon of which in llalc
beer is ufcdj to line or precipitate other beers: it is imported
from Rujfia by the Dutch, and from them to us.
Light confifts of particles of matter inconceivably fmall,
capable of exciting in us the fcnfation of colours, by being
refleded from every point of the furface of luminous bodies ;
but, notwithflanding they are fo exceeding fmall. Sir Ifaac
Newton has found means to divide a fingle ray into feven dillinil
parts, viz. red, orange, yellow, green, blue, indigo, and violet.
Malt, in general, is any fort of grain, firfl: germinated,
and then dried: that generally ufed is made of barley, which
experience has found to be the fittefl for this purpofe.
B z Medium
8 A7i Explanation
Medium is that fpace, through which a body in motion
paffes: air is the medium, through which the bodies near the
earth move ; water is the medium wherein fifnes hve, and
glafs affords a medium or a free palTage to light.
This term is alfo made ufe of, to exprefs the mean of two
numbers, and fometimes the middle between feveral quantities.
Musts are the unfermented juices of grapes, or of any
other vegetable fubllances.
Menstruum is any fluid, which is capable of interpofing
it's parts between thofe of other bodies, and in this manner
either diffolves them perfectly, or extrads fomc part of
them.
Oil is an unfluous, inflammable fubflance, drawn from
feveral animal and vegetable fubftances.
Precipitation. Ifinglafs difTolved becomes a glutinous
and heavy body ; this put into malt liquors intended to be fined
carries down, by its weight, all thofe fwimming particles,
which prevent its tranfparency ; and this adt is called fining,
or precipitation.
■ Resins, or balfams, are the oils of vegetables infpiffated and
combined with a proportion of the acid falts; as well as they
mix with any fpirituous liquor, as little are they foluble in
water, but they become fo, either by the intervention of gums or
foaps or by the attenuating virtue of fermentation.
Salts
Of the Technical Terms
Salts are fubftances fharp and pungent, which readily
difiblve in wafer, and from thence, by evaporation, cryftallife
aad appear in a folid form. They eafily unite together, and
form different compounds. Thus falts, compofed of acids and
alkalies, partake of both, and are called neutral.
Sett : a grift of malt is by brewers faid to be {qXX., when
inftead of feparating for extraftion, it runs in clods, encreafes
in heat, and coagulates. The caufe of this accident is the over
quantity of fire in the water applied to the firlT: extraflion.
The air included in the grift, which is a principal
agent in extraftion, being thereby expelled, the mafs remains;
inert, and its parts, adhering too clofely together, are with
ditHiculty feparated. Though an immediate application of more
cold water to the grift is the only remedy, yet in general, as the
cohefion is fpeedy and ftrong, it feldom takes cfled. New
malts, which have not yet loft the heat they received from the.
kiln, are moft apt to lead the brewer into this error.
Sugar or faccharine falts, are properly thofe, that come,
from the fugar canes ; many plants, fruits and grains give fweet
juices reducible to the fam.e form, and fuppofed to be acids
fmoothed over with oils; all vegetable fwcets are capable of
fermenting fpontancoufly when crude ; if boiled, they require
an addition of yeaft to make them perform that adf. Malt,.
or its extrafts, have all the properties of faccharine falts.
Sulphur..
I© An Explanation
Sulphur. Though by fulphnr is commonly underflood the
mineral fubftance called brimftone, yet in chemiftry it is fre-
quently ufed to fignify in general any oily fubftance, inflamma-
ble by fire, and, without fome falinc addition, indiffoluble in
water.
Soap or Saponaceous Juices. Common foap is made
of oil mixed with alkaline falts : this mixture caufes a froth on
being agitated in water. The oils of vegetables are, in fomc
degree, mixed with their falts ; and, according to tlie nature of
thefe flits, appear either relinous or fiponaceous, that is, folu-
ble or indiffoluble in water. Sugar is a kind of foap, render-
ing oil mifcible with water ; and therefore all the bodies,
from which faccharine falts may be extraded, are truly fapo-
naceous.
Vegetable is a term applied to plants, confidered as capa-
ble of growth, having veficls and parts for this purpofe, but ge-
nerally fuppofed to have no fcnfation.
Vinegar is an acid penetrating liquor, prepared from
wine, beer, cyder, or a muft, which has been fermented as
far as it was capable.
Vitriol is, in general, a metalline fubllance combined with
the ftrongeft acid fait known. This acid, being feparated from the
metal, differs in nothing from that which is extraded from alum,
and from brlmflonc. It is improperly called fpirit of vitriol,
when
Cy^/^^ Technical Terms. h
when diluted with water, and, with as little propriety, oil,
when free from it. This is commonly ufed in the brewery, in
order to precipitate or fine brown beers, that are ftubborn or
nearly cloudy. Twelve ounces of this oil is a quantity many
times put into a fingle butt of beer, though the ufe thereof had
much better be wholly baniflied from, the trade.
Volatile Bodies are thofe, which, either from their
fmallnefs or their form, do not cohere very ftrongly to-
gether, and being moft fufceptible of thofe agitations, which
keep liquors in a fluid Hate, are moft eafily feparated and rari-
fied into vapour, with a gentle heat, and on the contrary
condenfed and -brought down with cold.
Wine is a brifk, agreeable, fpirituous, fluid cordial, drawn
from fermented vegetable bodies. In this fenfe beers and ales
may be called, and really are, barley wines.
Worts are the unfermented extrads of malt.
Yeast is both the flowers and lees of a fermented wort,
the former of thefe being elaftic air enveloped in a fubjed Icis
ftrong and lefs coniiftent than tlie latter.
PRINCIPLES
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PRINCIPLES
O F T H E
Theory of BREWING.
SECTION I.
Of FIRE.
)&;jf^-r«^« HOUGH fire is the chief caufe, and principle of
^ .©.'^•.Oi. |) almoft every change in bodies ; and though per-
(4 }0!~".<s; ik fons untaught in chemiftry imagine , that they
)^i'^-i-'^'.0.. underrtand its nature, yet certain it is, that there is
nothing more incomprehenfible, or that eludes fo much our
niceft refearch. The fenfes are very inadequate judges of it ;
the eye may be deceived and fuppofe no fire, in a bar of iron,
becaufe it does not appear red, though at the fame time it
may contain enough to generate pain : the touch is equally un-
faithful, for a body containing numberlefs particles of heat,
will feel cold, if it is much more fo than ourfelves.
C The
j^ T'he Theory o/'Brewing.
Tlie great and fundamental difference among philofophers,
in refpcft to the nature of fire, is, whether it lie originally
fuch, formed by the Creator himfelf at the beginning of things ;
or whether it be mechanically producible in bodies, by fome
alteration produced in the particles thereof. It is certain, that
heat may be generated in any body by attrition ; but whether
it exifted there before, or was caufed immediately by the mo-
tion, is a niatter of no great import to the art of brewing ;
for the effeds, with which we are alone concerned, arc
the fame.
Fire expands all bodies, both folid and fluid. If an iron
rod, juft capable of pafling through a ring of the fame me-
tal, is heated red-hot, it will be encreafed in length, and fo
much fwelled as not to be able to pafs through the ring, as
before * : if a fluid is put into a bellied glafs, with a long flen-
der neck, and properly marked, the fluid, by being heated,
will manifcflly rife to a confiJerable height.
The expanfion of fluids, by heat, is different, in different
fluids; with fome exceptions, it may be faid to be in propordon
to their denfity. Pure rain water, gradually heated to ebulliti-
on, is expanded one 84''' part of its bulk, fo that 85 gallons of
• There is a very fingular except!- occupies a lefs fpace than when in a folid
•n in regard to iron itfelf in this re- form. This ought to caution \a againft
ipect. It is only a certain degree of general rules, by which nature appears
heat that expands this metaJ ; (and by no means to be bound. See Mem,
that much kfs than any other either de I' Acad, des Scicnc, p. 273.
more or Icfs denlc ;) when melted, it
boiling:
9
Ithe Theory<?/'Brevving. ' 15
boiling water will, when cold, meafure no more than S4 ; and
85 gallons of boiling wort will not yield fo much, becaufe
worts contain many oily particles, which, though lefs denfe than
water, have the property of being more expaniible : hence we
fee the reafon why a copper, containing a given number of bar-
rels of boiling wort, will not produce the fame number of bar?-
rcls of beer when cold.
Bodies are weakned or loofened in their texture by fire : the
hardeft, by an encreafed degree of heat, will liquify and run;,
and vegetables are refolved and feparatcd by it into their
conftituent parts. It muft be owned that vegetables feem at
firft, on being expofed to the fire, to become rigid or ftiff;,
but this is owing to the evaporation of the aqueous particles,
which prevented a clofer adhefion of the folid matter. It is
only in this manner that fire flrengtliens fome bodies tliat
were before weak.
That the texture of bodies fliould be loofened by fire, feems a.
confequence of expanfion ; for a body cannot be expanded but
by its particles receding farther from one another ; and if thefe
be not able to regain the fituation they had when cold, the body
will remain loofer in its texture, than before it fuffercd the acti-
on of fire. This is the cafe of barley when malted.
Fire may be conveyed through moll bodies, as air, water,
allies, fand, &c. The effeft feems to be different according
to the diflferent conveyances. A difference appears between
boiling and roafling, jet tliey anfwer the fame purpofe, that
C 2 of
1 6 77je Theory o/" Brewing.
of preferving the fu'ojeft ; and this, in proportion to the degree ■
of heat it has fuflered. IVIalts, the more they are dried, the
longer are they capable of maintaining themfclves in a ior.nd
Rate, and the liquor brewed with them will, in proportion to
their drynefs, keep the longer found. The hotter the water
is applied to malt, provided its heat doth not exceed the higheft
extrading degree, the more durable and founder will the ex-
trad be.
The laft confideration of fire or hear, that relates to brew-
ing, is the knovs ledge of its different degrees, and how to re-
gulate them. Till of late, cliemills, and all others, were
much to feek in this refped't ; they diflinguifhed more or lefs
fire in a very vague and indeterminate manner, as the flrfi:, fe-
cond, third, and fourth degree of heat, meaning no precife
heat, or heat meafured by any ftandard ; but, by the invention
of the thermometer, we are enabled to regulate our lirts with
the utmofl preciiion. Thermometers are formed on different
fcales; and therefore when any degree of heat is mentioned,
in order to avoid confufion, the fcale made ufe of fliould
be indicated. I have conflantly ufed Fahrenheit's, as it is the
moft perfect and tlie molt generally received. According to
this infirument, 32 degrees is the freezing point, or where
water firft begins to harden in'o ice; from 32 to 90 degrees
are the limits of vegetation, according to the different plants
that receive thofe or the intermediate heats. The 40''' degree
is marked by Eocrhaave as the firfl; fermentable heat, and (he
80''' us the kfl : 47 degrees I have found to be generally the
medium
fi^e Theory of Brewing.
medliim heat of London througliont the year hi the fhade ;
98 degrees is faid to be that of our bodies when in health, as
from 105 to 112 are its degrees when in a fever. At 175
degrees the purcfl: and highefl-rcdified fpirits of wine boil, and
at this degree I have found well grown malts to charr, at 2 i 2
degrees water boils, at 600 degrees quickfilver and oil of vi-
triol. Gold, filver, iron, and moil: other metals in fufion ex-
ceed this heat ; greater Hill than any of thefe is the heat in the
focus of the burning lens of Tfchirnhaufen, or of the concave mir-
ror made by Villette ; they are faid to volatilife metals and vitrify
bricks. Thus far experiments have reached; but how much
more, or how much lefs, the power of this element extends,
will probably be for ever unknown.
SECTION II.
0/ A I R.
''■(>>.^>^0., ONE of the operations, eidier of nature or art, can
^ N r be carried on without the adion or afililiance of air.
'it V
w^tt-^vli' ^^ '^^ ^ principal agent in fermentation; and there-
fore brewers ought to be well acquainted at leafl with its princi-
pal properties and powers.
By air we mean a fluid, fcarcely perceptible to our fcnfcs,
and difcovering itfelf only by the refiftance it makes to bodies.
We find it every where incumbent on the furface of the g'obe,
rifing
i8 1^:)e Theory of Brewing.
rlfing to a confiderable height, and commonly known by the
name of atmofphere. The weight of air is to tliat of wa-
ter as I to 850, and its gravitating force equal to that of a column
of water of 33 feet high ; fo that an area of one foot fquare re-
ceives, from air, a prelTure equal to 2080 pounds weight.
Elaflicity is a property belonging to only one of the four ele-
ments, namely, air, and it varies in proportion to tlie comprcfiing
weights. Wc fcarcely find this element, (any more than the o-
thers,) in a pure ftate: one thoufandth part of common air, fays
Bocrhaave, confifts of aqueous, fpirituous, oily, faline, and other
particles ibattercd through it. Thefe are not, or but little com-
prcffible.and in general prevent fermentation: confequently where
the air is pureft, fermentation is beft carried on. The fame author
fufpefts, that the ultimate particles of air cohere together, fo as
not eafily to iniinuate themfelves into the fmalleft pores, either
of folids or iluids. Hence thofe acquainted with brewing eafi-
ly account, why very hot water, which forces flrong and pin-
guious particles from malt, forms at the fame time extrads unfa-
vourable for fermentation, as oils arc an obflrudlion to the free
entrance of air ; and from an analogous rcafon, why in
v^^eak extrads fermentation is fo much accelerated, that the whole
loon becomes four.
Air, like other bodies, is expanded and rarified by heat, and
exerts its elaflicity in proportion to the number of degrees of fire
it has received ; the hottcf therefore the feafon is, the more ac-
tive and violent will the fermentation be.
Air
The T HE 0 R y <?/" B R E VV I N G. 1 ()
Air abounds with water, and is peqietually penetrating and
infinuating itfelf into every thing capable of receiving it. Its
weight, or gravitating force, muft neceffarily produce number-
lefs effeds. The water contained in the air is rendered more
adlive by its motion; hence the faline, gummous and faponace-
ous particles it meets with arc loofened in their texture, and, in
feme degree, diflblved. As principles like thefe are the chief
conftituent parts of malt, the reafon is obvious why thofe that
are old, or have lain a proper time cxpofed to the influence of
die air, diffolve more readily, or, in other words, yield a more
copious extrad: than others.
All bodies in a pafTive ftate, remaining a fufficlent time in
the fame place, become of the fame degree of heat with the air
itfelf. On this account the water, lying in the backs ufed by
brewers, is nearly of the fame degree of heat as the thermo-
meter fliews the open air in the fliade to be. W'^hen
this inllrument indicates a cold below the freezing point, or
32 degrees, if the water does not then become ice, the reafon
is, bccaufe it has not been expofed long enough to be diorough-
Iv affcdcd by fuch a cold. For water docs not immediately af-
■fume the fame degree of temperature with the air, principal-
ly on account of its denfit)', alfo from its being pumped out
of deep and hot wells, from its being kept in motion, and hum
many other incidents. Under thefe circumllanccs, no great
error can arifc to eftimatc its heat equal to 33 degrees.
Air
20 'The Theory o/" Brewing.
Air is not eafily expelled from bodies, either folid or fluid.
Water reqvires two hours boiling to be difcharged of the
grealeft part of it's air. That it may be thus expelled by heat ap-
pears from this ; water, if boiled the fpace abovenientioned, in-
ll:ead of having any air bubbles when it is froze, as ice com-
monly has, becomes a folid mafs like cryftal.
As air joined to water contributes fo powerfully to render
that fluid more adive, that water -which has endured fire the
leaft time, provided it be hot enough, will make the flronge{l
extrads.
Worts or mufls, as they contain great quantities of falts and
oils, require a greater degree of lieat to make them boil : confe-
quently more air is expelled from boiling worts, than from boil-
ing water in the fame time; and as air doth not inftantancoufly
re-enter thofe bodies, when cold, they would never fer-
ment of themfelves. Were it not for the fubllitute of yeaft,
to fupply tlie deficiency of air loft by boiling, thev would
fox or putrify, for want of that internal elaftic air, which is
abfolutely ncceffar}' to fermentation.
Though there is air in every fluid, it differs in quantity
in different fluids ; fo that no rule can be laid down for the
quantity of air, which worts fhould contain. Probably the
quantity, futhcient to faturate one fort, will not be an ade-
quate proportion for another.
Air
^h& Theory <?/" B r % vv i k g. 2 1
Air in this ir.anncr cncompafles, is in contad: with, con-
fines, and compreffes all bodies. It infinuaf -3 itfelf into riicir
penetrable paffages, exerts all its power either on folid?, (;r
fluids, and finding jn bodies fome elements to which it has
a tendency, unites with them. By its weight and perpetual
motion, it ftrongly agitates thofe parts of the bodies in which
it is contained, rubs, and intermixes them intimately together.
By difuniiing fome, and. joining others, it produces very lin-
gular effefls, not eafily accomjsliflied by any other means.
That this element has fuch furprifing powers is evident from
the following experiment. " Fermentable parts duly prepar-
•' ed anddifpofed in the vacuum of Mr. Boyle's air-pump will
*' not ferment, though aded upon J^y a proper heat; but,
*' difcharging their air, remain unchanged.
D S E C T. ni.
■i 2 ^e Theory ^t/" Brewing,
•»n%"ir.*^ #* 'i-V^'A «• •v»"*j'6' ** V 1'* V V 'l* . *!£* 1* 'i* -V 'i* *^ '^V^j'^i* '***'* »'*'^'*'*'*" 'i* *•* U -▼"
SECTION III.
0/ WATER.
^"^^^^'p.'^. S water is perpetually an obiecft of our fenfcs, and
'0., A .©; made ufe of for moil: of the purpofcs of life, it
k''-:^ -i^'ei' "light be imagined that the nature of this element
0.M.'0MP-^-- was perfectly underflood : but they who have en-
quired into it with the greatcft care, find it very difficult to
form a right notion of it. One reafon of this difliculty is,
that water is not eafily feparated from other bodies, or other
bodies from water. Hartfliorn, by being long dried, refills a
file more than iron ; yet, on diftillatiort it yields much water.
I have already obfcrved, that air is intimately mixed, with, and
poffibly never intirely feparated from it, but in a vacuum; how
is it poffible then ever to obtain water perfectly pure ?
In its moft perfedt ftate, we underflanJ it to be a liquor very
fluid, inodorous, infipid, pellucid, and colourlefs, which, in
a certain degree of cold, freezes into a britde, hard, glalTy ice.
Lightnefs is reckoned a perfeftion in water, that, which
weighs lefs being in general the pureft. Hence the great diffi-
culty of deterniining the ftandard weight it fhould have. Foun-
tain, river, or well waters, by their admixture with faline,
earthly, fulphureous, and vitriolic fubflanccs, are rendered much
heavier
7'he Theory of Brewing. i.y
Iieavier than in their natural ftate; on the other hand an
increafe of heat, or an addition of air, by varying the ex-
panfion, diminifhes the weight of water. A pint of rain-\va;cr,
fuppoled to be the purelT:, is faid to weigh 15 ounces, r drachni,
and 50 grains; but for the reafons jull: now mentioned, this
muft differ in proportion as the fcafons of the year do from
each other.
Another property of water, which it has in common witk
other liquors, is its fluidity, which is fo great that a very fmall
degree of heat, above the freezing jjoint, makes it evaporate.
Few brewers, I believe, have examined ho\v great a pro-
portion of the quantity of water, ufed in brewing, is loll: by eva-
poration. The purer it is, the more readily it evaporates. Sea-
water, which is fuppofed to contain one fortieth part of fait,
more forcibly refifts the power of fire, and waftes much lefs,
than that which is pure. Nutwithftanding this, as fire iilti-
•matelv divides moft, if not all, bodies, and feparates the denfb
parts from the rare, a llrong continued ebullition may be a
means of freeing, in fome meafure, the muft from impurities,
if any fuch were in the water.
The Ultimate particles of this element, Boerhaave believed to
be much lefs than thofe of air, as water pafies through the
pores and interlVices of wood, ^vhich never tranfmit the leaft
elalliic air; nor is there, fays he, any known fluid, (fire except-
ed, which forces itfelf through every fubjedl,) whofe parts
are more penetrating than thofe of water. Yet as water is ntit
D 2 aa
"24 ^^' Theory of Br e\v i n g,
aa univerfal diirolvcr, there are vefTels which will confain it,
though they will let pafs even the thick fxTiip of fugar, for fu-
gar mafces its ^^•ay by diflblving the tenacious and oily lubll:ance
of the wood; which water cannot do.
*
Water, \\hcn fully faturated by fire, is faid to boil, and by
tlie impulfe of that element, comes under a ftrong ebullition,
Jufl before this violent agitation takes place, I have already ob-
ferved, that it occupies one eighty fifrh more fpace than when
cold : fo that a brewer who would be exa6l, when he intends
to reduce his liquor to a certain degree of heat, mufl: allow for
tliis cxpaniion, abating therefrom the quantity of fleam exhaled.
As water, by boiling, may be faid to be filled or faturated with
as much fire as it can contain, fo may it be with any other fub-
ftance capable of being diflolved in it. But though it will dif-
fblve only a given quantity of any particular fubflance, it may at
the fame time take in a certain proportion offome other. Four
ounces of pure rain water will melt but one ounce of common
fait, and after taking this as the utmofl of its quantity, it will
iVill receive two fcruples of another kind of fait, viz. nitre. In
the fame manner the ftrongeft extraft of malt is ftill ca-
pable of receiving the properties belonging to the hops : but
in a limited proportion. Tliis appears from the tliin bitter pel-
licle, that often fwims on the furface of the firft wort of brown
beers, Avhich commonly are overcharged with hops, by put-
ting the whole quantity of them at firfl: therein; the w^atcr
not being capable of fufpending all that the heat difTolves, it
no
The Th E O R Y (t/ B R E WI N G. - 25
no fooner cools br.fc tliefe parts rife on the top. Tliis may
ferve as a hint to prevent this error, by fufFering tlie firil wort
to have no more hops boiled therein than what it can fuftain ;
and as this mull be difrlsrezit in proportion to the heat of the
extrads and quantity of water ufed, two or tliree experiments
are neceffary to indicate the due proportion for tlie feveral
forts of drink. This however fhould ahvays be extended to thg
utmoft ; for tlie firll: wort, from its nature and conftituent parts,
fiands moll: in need of the prefervativc quality imparted by
the hops.
Water acts very differently, as a menftruum, according to the
quantity of fire it contains: confequently its heat is a point of
the utmoll; importance with regard to brewing, and muft be
j)roperly varied according to the drynefs and nature of the
malt; as it is applied either in the iirft or laft maflies,
and in proportion alfo to the time the beer is intended to be
kept. Tliefe ends can, in my opinion, be obtained to a degree
of numerical certitude.
Nutrition cannot be carried on without water, though likely
water itfelf is not the matter of nourilliment, but only the ve-
hicle.
Water is as necefiary to fermentation as heat or air. The
farmer, who ftacks his hay or corn before it is tlioroughly dried,
foon experiences the terrible effects of too much moifcure, or
water, reliding therein : all vegetables therefore intended to be
long kept, ought to be well dried. The brewer Ihould care-
fully
2 6 The Theory ©/"Brewing.
fulty avoid purchafing hops that are ilack bagged, or kept in a
moift place, or malt that has been fprinkled with ^vater foon
after it was taken from the kiln. Piy means of the moifturc, a
fermentation begins, which, for want of a fufficient quantity of
air, is foon flopped ; but the heat thereby generated remaining,
every feed begins to grow,^ and forms a mofs w^hich dies, and
leaves a putrid mufty tafte behind, always prevailing, more or
lefs, in beer made from fuch grain.
That water Is by no means an univerfal folvent, as fome peo-
ple have believed, has been already obferved. It certainly does
not aft as fuch on metals, gems, flones, and many other fub-
rtances: it is not in itfelf capable of dilTolving oils, but is mif-
cible with highly redified fpirits of wine, or alcohol, which
is the purefl: vegetable oil in nature. All faponaceous bodies*
whether artificial or natural, fixed or volatile, readily melt
therein; and as many parts of tlie malt are diffuluble in it,
they muii: either be, or become by lieat, of the nature of foap,
that is, equally mifcible Vv'ith oils and water.
When a faponaceous fubftance is diiTolved in water, it lathers,
froths, and bears a head ; hence, in exf rafts of malt, \\& find thefe
figns in the underoack. Weak and Hack liquors, which con-
tain the lalts of the malt without a fntricient quantity of the
oils, yield no froth, and generally let part of the "grill: fall un-
difujlvcd in a v/hitifh flour. Somewhat like tliis happens,when
the water for the extraft is over-heated, for then as more oils
arc extrafted than zxt fufficiciU to baliance the falts, the extraft
comes
\the Theory(j/'Brewing. 27
comes down as before, with little or no froth or head, but witli-
out depofiting any flour in the ixnderback. Should the heat of tlie
water be increafed beyond this lafl: nientioned degree, fo as to
impede the adion of the air neceflajy to extract with, that '
error would take place which is termed by brewers fetting the
goods: inftead of a good extrad, the whole runs ii^o infcpa-
rable clods or lumps, from whence the grill is fcldom or ne-
ver recovered.
This might be a proper place to obferve the difference be-
tween rain, fpring, river, and pond waters; but as the art of
brewing is very little affe61^ed by the difference of waters, if they
be equally foft, but rather depends on tlie due regulation
of heat, and as foft waters are found in moft places where
brewing is neccfTary, it is evident, (h.at any fort of beer or
ale may be brewed with equal fuccefs, where malt and
hops can be procured proper for the refpedive purpofes. If
hitherto prejudices and interefl have appropriated to fome places
a reputation for particular fort of drinks, it has arofe from
hence : the principles of the art being totally unknown, the
event depended on experience only, and lucky combinations
were more frequent where the greateil practice was. Thus
for want of knowing tlie true reafon of the different proper-
ties obferved in the feveral drinks, the caufc of their excellen-
cies or defedls was ignorantly attributed to the water made
life of, and the inhabitants of particular places foon found an
advantage, in availing themfelves of this local reputation. But
jufl and true principles, followed by as jufl a pradice, mufl
render
28 TJje Theohy ^Brewing.
render the art more unlverHxl^ "jid add dignity to the profefll-
on, by eftablifhing the merit of our barley wines on know-
ledge, not on prejudice. This truth would appear in a flrong-
er lieht, were I to extend the obfers'-ations fardier on this ele-
ment; but as the fubjeft of water has been fully treated of by
Boerhaave, Shaw, and Hales, it would be tedious to add any
thing more upon it.
SECT. IV.
7%e Theory (?/"Bre WING. 29
S E C T I 0 N IV.
0/ E A R T H.
I^""'^''«'^ EGULARITY requires that fome notice fliould
» n J* be taken of this element. The great writer on
*| » Ml chemillry, fo often mentioned, defines it to be
^~°'*-^*~°°* a fimple, hard, friable, foffil body, fixed in
the fire, but not melting in it, nor diffokible in water, air,
alcohol or oil. Thefe are the charadters of pure earth, which,
no more than any of the other elements, comes within our
reach, free from admixture. Though it is one of the compo-
nent parts of all vegetables, yet as defignedly it is never made
life of in brewing, except fometimes for the purpofe of pre-
cipitation, it is unneceflary to fay any thing more upon it:
whoever defires to be farther informed concerning its properties
may confult all, or any of the authors before-mentioned.
« A IS
E SECT. V.
30 The Theory <?/* Brewing.
SECTION V.
0/ ?/&^ THERMOMETER.
SKKt-^taiS H I S inftrument is defigned for meafurlnp; the In-
» S ^ ...
T T T ^"^^^^^ O'" decreafe of heat. By doing it numeri-
^ '^ cally, it fixes in our minds the quantity of fire,
■'■"""^ which any body is at any time impregnated with.
If different bodies are brought together, though each poflefles a
different degree of heat, it teaches us to difcover what degree
of heat they will arrive at when thoroughly mixed, fuppoling
effervefcence to produce no alteration in their heat.
The inventor of this admirable inftrument is not certainly
known, though the merit of the difcovery has been afcribed
to fevetal great men, of different nations, in order to do them,
and their countries honour. It came to us from Italy, about
the beginning of the fixteenth century. The firlt inventors
, were far from bringing this inflrument to its prefent degree
of perfcdion. As it was not then hermetically fealed, the
co.itained fluid was, at the fame time, influenceed by the
weight of the air, and by the expanfion of heat. The aca-
demy of Florence added this improvement to their thermo-
meters, which foon made them more generally received ; but
as the highefl: degree of heat of the inftrument, conftrufted
by tlie Florentine gentlemen, was fixed by the adion of the
flrongcfl rays of the fun in their country, this vague deter-
mination, varying in almoft every place, and the want of a
fixed and univerfal fcale, rendered all the obfcrvations, made
with fuch thermometers, of little ufe to us. Bi.iyle
Tlje Theory (t/* Brewing. 31
Boyle, Halley, Newton, and feveral other great men thought
this inftrumen: highly ^viorthy of their attention. They en-
deavoured to fix two invariable points, to reckon from, and
by means of thefe, to eftablilli a proper divifion. Monfieur
Amontons is faid to have firft made ufe of the degree of boil-
ing water, for graduating his mercurial thermometers. Faren-
heit indeed found, that the prcfllire of the air in its greatelt
latitude, would caufe a variation of fix degrees in that point,
he therefore concluded, that a thermometer made at the time
when the air is in its middle flate, might be fufficiently exaft
for almoft every purpofe. Long before this degree of heat,
viz. that of boiling water was perfectly fettled, many means were
propofed to determine another. The degree of temperature
in a deep cave or cellar, where no external air could reach,,
was imagined by many, a proper one ; but what that degree
tally was, and whether it was fixed and univerfal, was found too
difficult to be determined. At lafl: the freezing point of water
was thought of, and though fome doubts arofe with Dr.
Halley, and others, whether water conftantly froze at the
fame degree of cold. Dr. Martine has fince, by feveral ex- ^
periments, proved this to be beyond all doubt, and this de-
gree is now received for as fixed a point, as that of boiling
water..
Thefe two degrees being thus determined, the next bufi-
nefs was the divifion of the intermediate fpace on fome fcale,
that could be generally received. Though there feemed to be
no ditTiculty in this, philofophers of diflferent countries have not
been uniform in their determinations, and that wliichisufed
E i ia
3 2 'TJje Theory (j/Brewing.
in the thermometer now the moft common, and in other
refpeds the moft perfed, is far from being the fimpleft.
The liquid wherewith thermometers were to be filled,
became the objedt of another enquiry. Sir Ifaac Newton
employed, for this purpofe, linfeed oil : but this being an unc-
tuous body, is apt to adhere to the fides of the glafs, and when
fuddenly affefted by cold, for want of the parts which thus
ftick to the fides, does not fliew the true degree.
Tinged water was employed by others; but this freezing,
when Farenheit's thermometer points 32 degrees, and boiling,
when it rifes to 212, was, from thence, incapable of denot-
ing any more intenfe cold or heat.
Spirit of wine, which enilures much cold without ftag-
nating, was next made ufe of ; but this liquor being fufcep-
tible of no greater degree of heat, than that, which in
Farenheit's fcale is exprefTed by 1 75, was not capable of
being ufed, where boiling water was concerned.
At laft the propereft fluid, to anfwer eveiy purpofe, was
found to be mercury. This has never been known to freeze *,
and will not boil under a heat of 600 degrees; befides, it is
free from every inconvenlency attending other liquors.
As the inftrument is entirely founded on this, that heat
or fire expands all bodies, as cold condenfes them, tliere was
a necefllty of employing a fluid eafy to be dilated. A
* I ate'y indeed by Aich intenfe cold, mate;, mercury is faiJ to have been
as can only bj procure] with tlic flpgnatcd or fi.\eJ.
grcattft ari, and in the colJcft cli- quan-
7^^Theoryo/"Brewing. ^S
quantity of it is featcd in one part or referv'oir. This
being expanded by heat, is pufhed forward into a fine tube,
or capillary cylinder, fo fmall, that the motion of the fluid in
it is fpeedy and perceptible. Some thermometers have been
conftruded with their refervoir compofed of a larger cylinder :
now they are generally made globular. The fmaller the bulb
is, the fooner it is heated through, and the finer and fmaller
the tube is, the greater will be the length of it, and the more
diftindl the degrees. It is fcarcely polTible that any glafs cy-
linder, fo ver)' fmall, fhould be perfedly regular ; the quick-
filver, during the expanfion, pafTmg through fome parts of
the tube wider than others, the degrees will be fhorter in the
firft cafe, and longer in the latter. If the divifions therefore
are made equal between the boiling and freezing jxiints, a
thermometer confifting of fuch a tube cannot be true. To
redify this inconveniency, the ingenious Mr. Bird of London,
puts into the tube about the length of an inch of mercury ;
and mcafuring, with a pair of compafTes, the exadt length of
this body of quickfilver in one place, he moves it from one
end to the other, carefully obferving, in the feveral places,
how much it increafes or dimini flies in length, and thereby
afcertains where, and how much, the degrees are to be varied.
By this contrivance his thermometers are perfedtly accurate,
and exceed all that were ever made before.
I fliall not trouble my reader with the number of, calcula-
tions that have been made, to exprefb the quantity of parti-
cles
^4. ^he Theory (t/'Brewing.
cles of the liquor contained in the bulb, in order to determine
how much it is dilated: this Dr. Alartine feems to think a
more curious than ufeful enquiry. It is fufficlent for our pur-
pofe to know, how the beft thermometers ought to be con-
ftruded : they who have leifnre and inclination, may be agreea.-
bly entertained by the author laft cited.
By obferving the rife of the mercury in the thermometer^
during any given time, as, for inftance, during the time of
the day, we afcertain the degree and value of the heat of
every part of the day, and may hereafter nearly fix the:
medium of the whole time. By repeated experiments, it ap-
pears, that the medium heat of any day is ufually indicated at
eight o'clock in the morning, if the inftrument is placed in;
the fhade, in a northern fituation, and out of the reach of
any accidental heat-
Though water is not fo readily affefted as air by heat
and cold, yet as all bodies, that are long expofed in the-
feme place, become of the fame degree of heat with the ait
' itfelf, no great error can arife from eftimating water, in ge-
neral, to be of the fame heat as the air, at eight o'clock;
in the- morning, in the fliade.
The thermometer teaches us, that the heat of boiling wa-
ter is equal to 212 degrees, and by calculation we may-
know what quantity of cold water is neceffary to bring it
to any degree we choofe ; fo that though the inftrument
cannot be ufed in large veffels, where the water is heating,
yet
7^^ Theory 0/ Brewing, .35
yet, by the power of numbers, the heat may be afcertalned
with the greateft accuracy. The rule is this : multiply 2 1 2,
the heat of boiling water, by the number of barrels of wa-
ter thus heated, (fuppofe22) and the number of barrels of
■cold water to be added to the former, ( fuppofe 10,) by
the heat of the air at eight o'clock, ( fuppofe 50, ) add
thefe two produds together, and divide by the fum of the
barrels, the quotient fhews the degree of heat of the water,
mixed together.
2 1 2 heat of boiling water 50 deg. heat of air at 8.
2 2 barrels to be made to boil i o barrels of cold water
424 joo
424
22 4664
10 500
fum 32 ) 5 1 64 ( 1 6 1 4-4- degrees, will be the heat of the water_,
of barrels 32 when mixed together.
196
192
44
12
The calculation may be extended to three or more bo-
dies, provided they be brought to the fame denomination.
Suppofe 32 barrels of water to be ufed where there is a
grift
36 7^^ Theory 0/ Brewing.
grift of 20 quarters of malt, if thefe 20 quarters of malt
arc of a volume or bulk equal to 1 1 barrels of water, and
the malt by having lain expofed to the air, is of the fame
degree of heat with the air, in order to know the lieat
of the mafh, the calculation muft be thus continued.
161+T 161 +T heat of water 50 degrees of heat of malt.
32 barrels of water 1 1 barrels, volume of malt.
333 55^
483
32 water 5163
1 1 nialt 550
43 ) 57^3 ( ^3^ degrees, which will be the heat of
43 the mafh.
141
129
123
86
We fliall meet hereafter with fome incidents, which occa-
iion a difference in the calculation, but it will be time
enough to mention them in the pradtical part.
The thermometer by fhewing the different degrees of
heat of each part of the year, informs us at the fame time,
how necelTary it is, that the extrads of fmall beer fliould
carry
*lh& Theory^Brewino. 37
rary in proportion to fuch heats, as alfo what quantity of
hops ought to be ufed at different times ; how much yeart
is recuifite, at each llatcd fcafon, to carry on a due fer-
mentation ; and what variation is to be made in the length
.of time, that worts ought to boil. Indeed without this know-
ledge, beers, though brewed in their due feafon, cannot be
regularly fermented, and whenever they prove good, fo
<jften may it be faid, that fortune was on the brewer's fide.
Beers are depofited in cellars, to prevent their being
affected by the variations of heat and cold in the external
air. By means of the thermometer, may be determined the
heat of thefe cellars, the temper the liquor is to be kept
in, and whether it will fooner or later come forwajd.
The brewing feaibn, and the reafon why fuch a feafon
is fitteft for brewing, can only be difcovered by this in-
ilrbment. It points out likewifc our chance for fuccefs, fome-
times in the hottefl: months.
As all vegetable fermentation is carried on in heats, betwcert
fome fettled points, we are, by this inftrument, taught to
put our worts together at fuch a temperature, that they fhall
neither be evaporated by too great a heat, nor retarded by
toO' much cold.
If curioiity fliould lead us fo far, we might lilcewife de-
termine, by it, the particular llrcngth of each wort, or cjf
bvery ncufli; for if water boils zX. ziz degrees, oil at 600,
JP and
■j 8 Ithe Theory 5/ B r e vv i n g.
and worts be a compofition of water, oil and fait, the
more the heat of a boiling wort exceeds that of boiling
water, the more oils and falts mull it contain, or the Wron-
ger is the wort.
A given quantity of hops, boiled in a given quantity of
water, mufl have a fimilar effedt, confequently the intrin-
iic value of this vegetable may, in the fame manner, be
afcertained.
The more the malts are dried, the more do they alter
in color, from a white to a light yellow, next to an am-
fcer, farther on to a brown, until at lafl: the color becomes
fpeclded with black ; in ^vhich ftate we frequently fee it.
If more fire or heat is continued , the grain will at laft
charr, and become intirely black. By obferving the degrees
of heat neceffary to produce thefe alterations, we may, by
the mere infpedion of the malt, know with what degree
of fire it has been dried ; and fixing upon that which befl
fuits our purpofe dired, with the greatefl accuracy, the
heat of the firft mafli, a thing of the utmofl: confequencc
to the right management of the procefs of brewing.
If I had not already faid enough to convince the brewer
of the utility of this inf^niment, how curious he ought to be
in the choice, and how well acquainted with the ufc of
■it, I would tell him, that the heat gained by the effer-
vefcing of malt is to be determined by it alone ; that the
heat
\the T H E O R Y (// B R E W I N G. 39
heat loft by inafliing, by the water in its paflage from the
copper to the ton, or by the extrad coming down into the
iinderback, can be found by no other means; and above
all, that there is no other way to know with certainty the
heat of every extraction.
I know very well, that good beer was made before the
thermometer was known, and ftill 1$, by many, who are in-
tircly ignorant of it ; but this, if not wholly the effed: of
chance, cannot be faid to be very diftant from it. They who
carry on this procefs, unafTifted by principles and the ufe of
the thermometer, cannot but confefs, that they are frequently
unfuccefsful, whereas did they carefully and with knowledge ap-
2)ly this inftrument, they certainly never would be dlfappointed.
It is equally true, that the brewing art has, for a long fpacc
of time, been governed by tradition alone, and this but
ill conveyed ; if lucky combinations have^ fometimes flattered
the bcft praditionerSj faulty drinks have as often made them
feel the want of certain and well eftablifhed principles. It
is juft as abfurd for a brewer to refufe the ufe of the thcr- .
mometer, as it would be for an architcd: to throw away
his rule, as unferviceable, becaufe the firft houfe, probably,
was built without one.
F 2 SECT. VI.
40 iTse Theory <?/"Brevvin g»
SECTION VI.
Of the VINE, ;Vj FRUITS ar.d JUICES.
.■JST/^i^.^' T Is now time to confider more diftinftly the
^ I ^^ objedt we have in view, and the propereil means
Any fermented liquor, that in diftillation yields an in-
flammable fplrit mifcible with water, may be called wine,
whatever vegetable matter it is produced from. Now as beer
ind ales contain a fpirit exaftly anfwerable to this definition,
brewing may juftly be called the art of making wines from
corn. Thofe indeed, which are the produce of the grape,
have a particular claim to that name, either becaufe they
are probably the moft ancient and the moft univcrfal, or
that a great part of their previous preparation is owing to
the care of nature itfelf. By obferving the agents flie em-
ploys, and the circumftances under which flie ads, we fhali
find ourfclves enabled to follow her fteps, and to imitate her
operations.
Moll: grapes contain juices, which, when fermented, be^
come in time ;is light and pellucid as water, and arc pof-
fefled of fine fpirituous parts fullicient to cherlfh, comfort,
and eyen inebriate. But thcfe properties of vinofity arc not
obfei-vc4
l%e Theory^ Brewing. 41
obferved equally in the fniits of all vines; fome of them are-
found lefs, others not at all proper for this purpofe. It is
therefore neceffary to examine fome clrcumftanccs attending
the formation and ripening of thofe grapes, whofe juices
produce the fineft liquors of that kind.
All grapes, when they firfl: bud forth, are auftere and
four. Whether this is the efFed of the autumnal remaining
fap, or of the new raifed vernal one, is neither very eafy
nor very material to determine. This however plainly ap-
pears, that the juice, in that ftate, confifls of litde elfe than
an acid combined with a taftelefs water. When the fruit
is ripe, it becomes full of a rich, fweet, and highly flavoured
juice. The color, confiflency, and faccharine tafte of that
juice fhow, that, by the power of heat, a confiderable quan-
tity of oil has been raifed, and that the originally acid
falts are now fo changed as to poffefs the properties of
thofe, which are called faponaceous, or lixivial.
In England, grapes are probably produced under the
lead heat they can be raifed by. They difcover themfelves
in their firft Ibape, about June, when the medium between
the heat of the fim's beams, and that of the night, is
from z^'i to 60 degrees in Fahrenheit's thermometer. This
therefore is the degree of heat, by which the acid falts
are produced or introduced info the grape.
The higheft degrees of heat, in the countries, where
grapes come to perfect maturity, Imve been obferved to be
in
42 The Theory c/ B r e vv i n g.
in vanousparts of Italy, Spain and Greece loo, and at Montpe-
lier S8, in the fliade, to which, according to Dr. Lining's ob-
fefvations, 20 desrrees mufl be added for the cfFed of the fun's
heams. -The gre;ateft heat tlien in Italy will amount to 120 de-
grees, and in the fouth of France to i oS. Thefe approach nearly
to the heats ever obfcrved in the holtefi: climates, which
in . Aftracan, Syria, Senegal, and Carolina were from 1 24
to 126. .
Thofe countries, where the heat is the greateft, produce
in general the richefl fruits , that is the moft impregna-
ted with fweet, thick and oily juices. We are told that,
among the Tbckay wine-hills, that one which diredtly fronts
the fouth, and is the moft expofed to the fun, produces-
the fvveeteft and ri'cheft grapes. It is called \\\e fugar-hill',
and the delicious wines extracted from this particular fpot,
arc all dcpofited in the cellars of the Imperial family. Thofe
grapes, as well as fome in the Canaries, and in other pla-
ces, which, by being fuffered to remain the longeft on the
tree, with their ftems half cut through, have their juices
highly concentrated, produce that fpecies of fweet oily and
balmy wines, which, from that operation, are called fack,
from the French word fee or dry.
In all diftiliations, water and acid falts rife firft, A more
confiderable degree of fire is required for the elevation of
oils, , and a ftill greater one for that of thofe lixivial falts,
which render thofe oils mifcible with water. Nature puts
this
The T H E o R r 0/ B R E vv r N G. 4
this proccfs before our eyes. In the formation and matu-
ration of grapes, and it is by the imitation of what fhc does,
that the inhabitants of different countries improve the ad-
vantages both of their foil and of their air.
In order to illuftrate the dodrine, that grapes are endued
with various properties, in proportion to the heat of tlic air,
which they have been expofed to, let us remember what Boer-
haave has obferved, that in very hot weather, the oleous cor-
pufcles of the earth are carried up into the air, and defcend-
ing again, render the fl^owcrs and dews in fummcr very dif-
ferent from the pure fnow In winter. The firll: are acrid and
difpofed to froth, the lafl: is tranfj)arcnt and infipid. Hence
fummer rain, or rain falling in hot weather, is always fruit-
ful, whereas that in cold weaUier is fcarccly fo ^t all. In
winter the air abounds with acid parts, neither fmoothed by
oils or rarefied by heat, cold being the condenling power, as
heat is the opener of nature. In fummer, the air dilating it-
felf, penetrates every where; and gives to the rain a difpofition
to froth, occafioned by the admixture of olequs and aerial
particles. Thus the acid falts, previoufly exiting in the grapes,
and neceflary to their prefcrvation, are neutralized by heat,
covered or blended with oil, and changed by both in a faccha-
rine form. Now in proportion as thefe acids are more
or lefs fharp, and counterbalanced by a greater or leffcr quan-
tity of oils, the juices of the grapes approach more or lefs to
the llatc of perfe(Sion, which fermentation requires.
There
<»
44- ^^ Theory (9/ Brew INC.
There are indeed many places, as Jamaica, Rarbadoes, &:c.
where neither the lowcil or higheft degree of heat, j)roper
for tlie production of grapes, is obferved, and in which the
vines cannot be cultivated with advantage. By comparing;
the heat of thofe places with that in Italy and Montpe-
lier, it appears, that this defedl is not owing to the exceffive
heats of thefe countries, but to their conflancy and unifor-
mity; the temperature of the air never being fo low as the
degree neceflary for the firjl: production of the fruit. When-
ever the cultivation of the vine is attempted in thefe countries
the grapes on their firft appearance are fliaded and Screen-
ed from the beams of the fun, which, ia their infancy, they
arc not able to bear.
Hence we learn, that nature employs leffer heats to form-
than to ri|>en the juices of this fruit, or to beflow on them a
power of maintaining themfelves, for feme time, in a found
ftate. We have inveftigatcd the loweft degrees of heat, in
which grapes are produced, and nearly the higheft they ever
j-cceive to ripen them. Let us call the firft the germinating de-
grees, and the lalt thofe of maturation. If 50 or 60 be the
loweft of the one, and 124 or 126 the higheft of the
other, and if a certain power of acids is neceflary for the
germination of the grapes, which muft be counterbalanced
,by an equal power of oils ralfed by the heat of the fun
for their maturation, then the medium of thefe two num-
bers, or 92, may be faid to be a degree, at which this
fruit cannot poffibly be produced, and inferior to that by
which
*The Theory^Brewing. 45
which it is maturated. At Panama the loweft degree of
heat is 72, to which 20 being added, for the fun's beams,
the fum will be 92, and confequcntly no grapes can grow
there, except the vines be placed in the fliade^
If we recoiled that we can fcarcely make wine, which
will preferve itfelf, of grapes produced in England, we
fhall be induced to tliink, that the reafon of this defedl is
the want of the high degrees of heat. Our fun^ feldom
raifes the thermometer to 100 degrees, and that but for a
fhort continuance. Our medium heat is far inferior to 92,
and hence we fee, at feveral diftant terms in fummer, new
germinated grapes, but feldom any perfedly ripe. Thefe
obfervations, the ufe of which in brewing will hereafter ap-
pear, likewife point out to us, what part of our planta-
tions are fit to produce this fruit, and to what degree of
perfedlion.
A perfedl fermentation is the aim of the wine-maker,,
and this cannot be obtained, but with juices, whofe parts
may be intimately blended and united , that is according;
to our definition, that are perfectly faponaccous. Wines,
that have that quality, will ferment of themfelv^s, become
fpontaneoufly bright and' pellucid, and keep found a due
time. The wines of France, Spam and the Madeiras pof-
fefs more or lefs of thefe properties, in proportion to the
heats, which the grapes of thefe countries fullain in their
feveral flages of growth, and lome wines, which come from
G the
4-6 T^e Theory of Brewing.
the Eafl-Indies can fcarcely ever be made franfparent by
art, nature having being too lavifh of its heat, at the time
of their firft formation.
The nature of the foil proper for the vine might, in
another work, be a very ufeful enquiry. It will be fuffi-
cient here barely to hint at the effeft, which lixivial foils
produce in mufls. The Portugueze, when they difcovered the
Illand of Madeira in 1420, fet fire to the forefts, with
which it was totally covered. It continued to burn for the
fpace of feven years, after which the land was found ex-
tremely fruitful, and yielding fuch wines, as, ftill at prefent,
we have from thence, in greater plenty. It is verj' diiTicult
to fine thefe wines, and, though the climate of this ifland
is more temperate than that of the Canaries, the wines are
obliged to be carried to the Indies and the warmer parts
of the globe, to be purged, fhook, and attenuated, before
they can arrive to an equal degree of finenefs with other
wines ; though, were the Portugueze acquainted with what
may be termed the artificial method of exciting periodical
fermentation, much or the whole of this trouble might be
avoided. Hence we fee, that foils impregnated with alka-
,line falts will produce mufts able to fupport themfclves lon-
ger, and to reflft acidity more, than other foils, under the fame
degree of heat.
Grapes have the fame conftituent parts as other vegeta-
bles. The difference between them, as to their tafles and
properties,
The Theory^Brevving. 47
properties, confifts, in the parts being mixed in different
proportion?. This arifes, either from their abforbent veflels
more readily atlrading fome juices than others, or from their
preparing them otherv\ifc, under difierent heats and in dif-
ferent foils.
We find, fays Dr. Hales, by the chemical analyfis of
vegetables, that their fubftance is compofed of fulphur, vo-
latile faits, water, and earth, which principles are endued
with mutual attrading powers. There enters likewife in the
compofition a large portion of air, which has a wonder-
ful property of attrading in a fixed, or of repelling in an
elaftic, flate, with a power fuperior to vaft comprefTmg
forces. It is by the infinite combinations, actions and readions
of thefe principles, that all the operations in animal and
vegetable bodies are effeded.
Boerhaave, who is fomew'hat more particular with regard
to the conftituent parts of vegetables, fays, that they con-
tain an oil mixed with a fait in form of a fapo, and that
a faponaccous juice arifes from the mixture of water with
the former.
We have feen, from the nature of the compofition of
the grapes, that they have all the neceffary principles to
form a fapo. They abound with elaftic air, water, oils,
acid and neutral falts, and even lixivial and faponaceous
juices. The air contained in the intcrlHces of fluid* is more
G 2 in
4^ The Theory o/* Brewing.
in quantity than is commonly apprehended, for Sir Ifaac Newton
•has proved that water has forty times more pores than folid parts;
and the proportion is likely not very different in vegetable
jiiices. But their vifcidity prevents the expanfion of this inclo-
fed air, and being enveloped by the covering of tlie
fruit, it lies inadive, till it is moved by fome foreign caufe.
In this forced ftatc, it caufes no vifible motion, nor are the
principles, thus confined, either fubjeded to anj' apparent iinpref-
iionsof the external atmofphere, or fo intimately mixed as when
the juices of the fruit are exprefled. But as a perfedt mix-
ture of thefe principles is necefTary for the formation of a
fapo, it is clear, that a free communication of the external
air with that contained in the interflices of the liquor is
required for that purpofe. By what means this is effeded,
what alterations it produces, or in general, in what manner
the juices of the grapes become wine, mufl be the fubjed
.of our next enquiry.
The procefs of a perfed: fermentation is undoubtedly the
fame, ( where the due proportions of the conftituent part,
forming the mvTlt are exadly kept,) whatever vegetable juices
it is excited in. For this reafon, we will obferve the progrefs
of this ad in beers and ales, thefe being fubjeds we are
more accuflomed to, and where the charaders are moft di-
ftind, in order to apply what may be learned from thence
10 our chief objed, the bufinefs of the brewer.
SECT. VII.
*The T H E o R y (?/* B R E w I N G. 49
T " T ^ ^ V V *r V *i* 1* •.* ';* V 'C" *C v i* V ':' 'i* 'i* v *** *S* ■'^ ^ '•* *1* V . V *V V
SECTION VII.
O/' F E R xM E N T A T I O N in general,
?5:«>:e:<x:o; ER mentation is that aa, by which
)3( p )s( oils, and earth, naturally tenacious, are brought
^^ •*••& *o Tuch a degree of fluidity, as to be equally
<a',0:.iSJ,..O^.o;A fufpended in an homogeneous, pellucid fluid ;
which, by a due proportion of the different principles, is
preferred from precipitation and evaporation. According to
Boerhaave, a lefs heat tlian forty degrees leaves the mafs
in an inert flate, and the particles fall to the bottom in
proportion to their gravity ; a greater heat than eighty de-
grees difperfes them too much, and leaves tlie reliduum a
rancid, acrimonious, putrid mafs.
It is certainly very difficult, if not totally impoffible, to
difcover the true and adequate caufe of fermentation. But,
by tracing its feveral flages, circumftances and effedls, we
may perhaps find out the agents and means employed by
nature to produce this fingular change ; a degree of know-
ledge, which, if not fufficient to fatisfy philofophical curio-
flty, may be fo to anfvver our pradical purpofes.
The rnuft, when jufl prefled from the grapes, is a liquid compof-
ed of neutral and llxivial falts, oils of different fpiffitude, water,
earth, and elafticair. Thefe are irregularly ranged, and if I may
be permitted the exprefllon, compofe a chaos of wine. Soon
after the liquor is fettled, a number of air bubbles arife,
and
50 *The Theory <?/" Brewing.
and at firft adhere to the fides of the confaimng veflel :
their magnitude encreafes as they augment in number, till
at laft they cover the whole furface of the mull:.
It has been long fufpedled, and if I miflake not, demon-
f^rated, that an acid, of uhich all others are but fo many
different fpecies, is univerfally difperfed through, and con-
tinually circulating in the air ; and that this is one of na-
ture's principal agents in maturating and refolving of bodies.
Mufts, like other bodies, being porous, the circulating acids
Very powerfully introduce themfelves therein by the prefibre
of the atmofphere, in proportion as the pores are more or
lefs expanded by the heat they are expofed to. The particles
of acids are fuppofed by Newton to be endued with a great
attradive force, in which their adivity confifls. By this
force, they rufh towards other bodies, put the fluid in mo-
tion, excite heat, and violently feparate fome particles in fuch
manner as to generate or expel air, and confequently bubbles.
From hence it appears that, as foon as the acid particles
of the air are admitted into the muft, they aft on the oils,
and excite a motion fomewhat like the efFervefcence gene-
rated, when acids and oils come in contact, though in a
lefs degree. This motion is the caufe of a heat, by vvhich
the included elaftic air, being rarefied, occafions the bubbles
to afcend towards the furface. Thefe, by the power of at-
tra<Sion, are drawn to the fides of the vefiel ; at firft .they
are fmall and few, but increafe, both in number and magni-
tude.
n^e Theory(7/"Brewinc. 5c
mde, as the effedl ofthe airencreafes, till, at laft, they fp read
over the whole furface. The firft ftage then of vegetable
fermentation fliews itfelf to be the motion, by which part
of the elaftic air is freed from the muft. It may, perhaps^
be proper to obferve, that all muft?, which ferment fpon-
taneov.ily, contain for this purpofe a large proportion of
claftic air.
Bubbles ftill continue to rife after the muft Is entirely
covered with them ; and a body of bladders is formed,
called by the brewers, the bead of the drink -^ which, by
retaining the internal heat excited by motion, accelerates the
fermentation. As the number of bubbles encreafe, the head
rifes in height, but the oils of the muft being as yet of
^ different fpillltudes, fuch which are leaft tenacious emit
their air foon than the others, and their aerial bubbles, being
more fl:rongly rarefied by the fermenting heat, rife on the
furface higher than the reft. From hence, and from the
conftituent parts of the muft not being intimately mixed,
the head takes an uneven and irregular ftiape^ and appears
like a beautiful piece of rock work.- After this, it requires
fome time, and it is by degrees, that the particles difpofe
themfelves in their due order, which, when effeded, the
interpofition of the water keeps not only the faline, oily
and fplrituous parts, but alfo the mucilaginous and earthly
ones, within their ref|)edive fphere of attraftion. The head
becomes more level, heterogenous bodies, as dirt, ftraw,
corks, 6cc, are now buoyed on the furface, and Ihould be fkim-
med
5 2 The Theory of Brewing.
med of, left, when the liquor becomes more light and fpl-
rituous, they fhould fubfide. As the heat increafcs, and the
air bubbles grow larger, fome, not formed of parts fo ftrong
as the others, which generally are the firft, burft and ftrengthen
the reft ; the internal heat is hereby better retained in the
fermenting liquor, and fermentation carried on to a farther
degree. The particles of the muft become more pungent
and fpirituous, becaufe more fine and more adive ; fome of
the moft volatile ones fly off; hence, that fubtle and dange-
rous vapor, called Gas, which extinguifhes flame and fuffo-
cates animals. Thofe bubbles, which were formed of oils
more tenacious than the reft, and are rendered more denfe by
their admixture with earth, though they ftrongly envelope
much elaftic air, fubfide by their weight, and form the lees.
The wine, by thefe feveral afts, being more and more at-
tenuated, is at laft unable to fupport, on it's furface, the
weight of fuch a quantity of froth, rendered miOre denfe by
the repeated explofions of the air bubbles. At this peri-
od, left the liquor fhould be fouled by the falling in of
the froth , it is put in veflels having only a fmall aper-
ture , where it continues to ferment , with a flower and
lefs perceptible motion, even when the bung hole of the
cafk is ftopped. It is futTicient for this, that the communi-
cation with the atmofphere be not intirely intermpted. The
alteration caufed in the liquor, by the j^refTure of the exter-
nal air, from the very firft of it's fermenting, not only occa-
fioiis the particles of the muft, to form themfclves in their
Tija Theoryo/" Brewing. 5j
Jue order, but alfo, by the weight and a<ftion of that clen':cnt,
grinds and reduces them into .fmaller parls. From henccy
they more intimately blend with each other, the wine be-
comes of an equal and even talle, and if the mnll: was per-
fL-<ftly faponaceous, it will continue to ferment, until, from
the conlVituent parts being difpofed and ranged in right lines,
a fine and pellucid fluid be produced.
That this operation fubfills, even after the liquor becomes"
fine, is evident ; for every fretting is a continuance of fer-
mentation, though often almoft imperceptible. Thus, as the
component parts of the liquor are continually reduced to a
lefs volume, the oils become more attenuated, and lefs capa-
ble of retaining elaftic air. As thefe frettings are often re-
peated, it is impofTible to determine, by any rule, the exaft:
ftate in which wine fhould be, in order to be perfedt for ufe.
It would feem however, that the more minutely the parts arc
reduced, the more their pungency will appear, and the
eafier their paffagc be in the human frame. Both wines and
beers, when new, poffefs more elaflic air, than when me-
liorated by age ; to be wholefome, they muft be poffeffed
of the whole of the fermentable principles. For thefe reafons,
beers and ales, when fubftituted to wines in common, and
more efpecially when given to the fick, fliould always be
brewed from entire malt : for the laft extrads, pofTefTrng but
the inferior virtues of the grain, have by fo much lefs th*
■.power to become light, Ipirituous and tranfparent,
H Wines-
5 4- 2^^^ Theory o/"Brewing.
Wines never totally remain inadive ; fermentation in forftc
degree continues, and in time the oils , by being great-
ly attenuated, volatilize, and fly off. In proportion as this
circumftance takes place, the latent acids of the liquor Atiow
themfelves , the wine becomes four , and in this flate is
termed vinesrar.
'O
It's laft ftage or termination is, when the remaining
aftive principles, which the vinegar poflefled, being evaporated
in the air, a pellicle forms itfclf on the furface of the liquor,
and duft and feeds, which always float in the atmofphere,
depofiting themfelves thereon, flrengthen this film into a
cruft, on which grow mofs, and many other fmall plants.
Thefe vegetables, together with the air, exhaufb the watery
parts. No figns of fermentable principles then remain ; but,,
like the reft of created beings, all the virtues being loft,
what is left is a fubftance refembling common earth.
Upon the whole, then, it appears, that a liquor fit for
fermentation ought to be compofcd of water, acids fmoothed
over with oils, or faccharine falts, and a certain portion of
elaftlc air ; that the heat of the air the liquor is fermented
in, muft be in proportion to the denfity of it's oils ; and laftly that
the pores are to be expanded by flow degrees, left the air, by
being admitted too haftily, or too quickly, fliould caufe an
cffervefcence rather than a fermentation, and occafion the
whole to become four. Wines therefore fermented in coun-
tries, where the autumn is hot, require their oils to be more
pin-
T£e Theory^Brewing. ^^
j>ingiuons, than where the feafon is cooler. For the fame
reafon, beers are beft made, when the air is at forty degrees
of heat , or bdow the firft fermentable point , becaufe the
brewer can, in that cafe, put his wort to work, at a heat of
his own chufing, which will not be augmented by that of
the air ; on the contrary, when, by it's internal motion, the heat
is ihcreafed, it will again be abated and regulated by the cold of
the medium.
As the acids are to be blunted by the oils of the muft, if
the firft are conveyed in a greater proportion, the mufl: ought
to be charged with a larger quantity of the laft. On this account
fmall beer brewed in fummer, when the air and acids more ealily
infinuate themfelves into the liquor, ought to be enriched with
oils obtained by hotter extrads, and in winter the contrary me-
thod muft be perfued.
From this hiftory of fermentation, we can with propriety ac-
count for the many accidents and varieties, that accompany
this a<5t ; and a comparative review of fome of them may not
be unnecefTary.
A cold air, clofing the pores of the liquor, always retards
and fometimes ftops fermentation; heat, on the contrary, con-
ftantly forwards this adt/ but, if carried too high, immediately
prevents it.
A muft loaded with oils, will ferment with more difficulty,
than one which abounds with acids ; it likewife is longer, be--
R 2 fo/e-
; 6 *The Theory of Brewing.
fore it becomes perfedtly homogeneous and fine, but when once
fo, will be more lafting.
If the quantities of oil are increafed , they will exceed
the poAver, both of the acids naturally contained in the juice,
and of thofe that are abforbed in fermenting ; the liquor will
therefore require a longer tune, before it becomes pellu-
cid, unlefs affifted by precipitation : and there may be cafes,
where even precipitation camiot fine it.
Thefe confideratlons naturally lead us to a general divifion
of wines in tliree claffes, viz. i . of fuch, as foon grow fine,
and foon become acid, being the growth of cold countries ;
2. of thofe, which, by a due proportion of heat, both when
the grapes germinate, and when they come to maturity, form a
perfeiS faponaceous muft, and not only preferve themfelves,
but in due time, become fine; and 3, of fuch, as having taken
tlieir firft . form under the higheft degrees of germination, (as I
termed them,) are replete with oils, difappoint the cooper,
and render the application of menftruums ufelefs, unlefs in
fuch quantities, as to change tlie very nature of the wine.
This remarkable difference of different wines appears to me
chiefly to arife from the climate; a fimilar difference may be
obferved in beers, and it has its origin in the different de-
grees of heat, the malt has been expofed to both in drying and
in extra^^ling.
Tliis
T^V T H E O R Y e/ B R E VV I N G. 57"
This will confirm an obfervation we have before mentioned,
that wines are neither naturally or uniformly perfed, and con-
fequently that th^ty muft be fubjed to many difeafes. Some-
times they are vapid and flat, witho\!t being four. This
does not fo much arjfe, from their imbibing the air of the
atmofphere, as from their fermenting, generating, and caft-
ing off too much air of their own. To prevent this acci-
dent, they are beft preferved in cool cellars, where their ac_
tive and invigorating principles are kept within due bounds,,
and not fuffered to fly off.
It fometimes falls Out, that a muff, though overloaded with
oils, has flill a greater . tendency to fermentation than to putre-
faction, acids not being wanting, but only enveloped. In this
cafe, time will get the better of the difeafe. This fome-
times happens in wines of the growth of too hot a fun ; they
foon become faint and fick, but recover by heat and air. The
fame thing happens frequently in beers extraded with too
hot waters or overcliarged with hopsj thefe liquors, at a cer-
tain period, flcken, fmell rancid, and have a difagreeable
taffe, but, by long ffanding, they begin to fret, and receiv-
ing more acids from the air, recover their former health and
tafte.
But fhould the quantity of oils exceed this laff proportion,
efpecially in wines formed from corn, the muff, inffead of
fermenting, would putrify, even though, by fome means, elaflic
air has been driven into them. In that cafe, the over pro-:
portion
^8 * 7^5 Theory ^Brewing.
portion of the oil and its tenacity prevent the entrance of
the acids, the muft receives no enlivening principle from with-
out, and the air, at firft conveyed into it, is enveloped with oils
fo tenacious as to be incapable of aftion. Nothing fo much
accelerates putrefaftion as heat, moiilure, and a ftagnating air ;
and all fubllances corrupt, fooner or later, in proportion to
the inactivity of the contained air, to the want of a proper
vent, and to the clofenefs of their confinement. This ought
to convince us of the truth, deduced by Dr. Hales from many
experiments ; that there is a great plenty of air incorporated!
in the fubftance of vegetables, which, by the adion of fer-
mentation, is rouzed into an elaftic ftate, and is as much inftru-
mental in the produdion of fermentation, as it is ncceflary-
to the life and being of animals.
I would here clofe this fhort and imperfedl: account; but as,
in the art of brewing, there is no part fo difficult, and at
the fame time fo important to be in lome meafure underftood,
as the caufe and effeds of fermentation ; and as the examinati-
on of this adt, in all the different lights in which it offers it-
felf to our notice, can liardly be thought uninterefling, I beg
leave to add fome detached thoughts thereon.
We have feen that all vegetable fubflances pofTefs ferment-
able principles, though in a diverfity of proportions; but
that thofe juices only, whofe conflituent parts approach to the
proportion neceflary to the ad of fermentation, can be made
into wines. I would not, from what has before been faid, be
under-
77je Theory -?/'Br i!% Y n g.
'!un(3erftood, as if I thought that vegetables are more or leis
-acid, more or lefs fulphureous, or in general more or lefs
fermentable, merely from the heat of the climate they grow
in. This, though one of the caufcs of their being fo, is by
no means the only one; the form and conftitution of the
plant is another. In very hot climates, we find acid fruits,
fuch as limes, tamarinds, lemons and oranges ; the proportions
of fermentable principles in thefe fruits are fuch, as to ren-
der them incapable of making found v/ines, though their
juices may, in fome degree be fufceptible of natural fermen-
tation. In thofe countries, fo greatly favoured by the fun,
■fome vines and other fruit trees attradl the acids from the
air, and pofTibly • from the earth fo greedily, that, when
the juices are fermented, they foon become four. On the con-
trary, in cold climates, we fee warm aromatic vegetables grow,
fuch as hops, horfe radifh, camomile, wormwood, &cc. whofc
principles cannot, without difficulty, and perhaps not percep-
tibly, be brought to ferment. But thefe inflances muft be ac-
counted the extremes on each fide ; for, in cold, as well
as in hot countries, fruits are produced fufceptible of a perfedl
natural fermentation, as apples, fome fpecies of. which arc in-
dued with fuch auflere and aromatic qualities, that their
expreffed juices ferment fpontaneoufly , until they become
pellucid, and are capable of remaining in a found ftate
many years. From thence it appears, that proper fubjeds,
which will naturally ferment for making wjnes, may be
found in almoft every climate. England, fays Boerhaave, is
on this account remarkably happy : her fruits are capable
of
59
^o T^he. Theory <?/ E r e w i n g.
of producing a great variety of wines, equal in goodne&
to many imported, were not cur talks, perhaps, made fub-
fervient to our prejudices..
r
The effed of the ad of fermentation on liquors is fo
to attenuate the oils , as to caufe them to become fpl-
rituous, and eafily inflammable. When a wine is difpof-
leffcd of fuch oils, which is nearly the cafe in vinegar, far
from pofTeffing a heating or inebriating quality, it refrefhes
and becomes a remedy againft intoxication. The term of
fermentation ought, perhaps only, to be applied to that operati-
on, which occafions the exprefled juices.of vegetables to become
wine: but as feveral adls pafs under the fame name, it may not
be improper here to. invefligate them.
3
, Vegetation, one of themj is that operation of nature, where-
in more air is attraded than repelled. I believe all that liath:
been faid above concerning the juice of grapes, is a convince
ing proof thereof.
Fermentation is, where the communication of the external,
and internal air of a mufl is open, and in a perfed ftate, when:
the power of repelling is equal to that of attrading air.
Putrefadion is when, by the power of rtrong oils, or other-
wife, the communication between the external and internal air
is cut off, fo tlwt the liquor neither attrads the one or repels the
other.
I'he Theory (t/Bre WING. 64
other, but, by an intefline motion, the united particles feparate
and tend to fly off.
EfFervefcence is when, by thepower of attradion, the parti-
cles of matter fo haftily rufh Into contaft, as to generate a heat
which expels the inclofed air ; and this more or lefs, in pro-
portion to the motion excited.
SECT. viir.
6 2 Tf^e THEORY(?/'BREVVrNG.
SECTION VIII.
0/^ARTIFICIAL FERMENTATION.
;«;~~'-iSi-'— )3( Y what has been faid, it appears, that, thoueh
^ B * fermentation is brought on by uniform caufes, and
'j K M\ produdivc of limilar efFeds, it is fubje<5l to many
A~".'*?i".'"'.0, varieties, both in refped to its circumftanccs and
to its perfedion. One difference is obvious, and feems to de-
ferve our attention, as it furnirties a ufeful divillon between na-
tural and artificial fermentation. The firft rifes fpontane-
cufly, and requires nothing to anfwer all the neccffary pur-
pofes, but the perfedioh of the fruit, and the advantage of
a proper climate. The other, at firll fight lefs perfed, wants
the afliftance of ferments, or fubftitutes, without which the
ad could, cither not at all, or very imperfedly, be excited.
There are undoubtedly liquors, which, though they have
of themfelves a tendency to fermentation, and arc naturally
brought to it, yet, from fome defed in the proportions of
their conftituent parts, cither do not acquire a proper tran-
fparcncy, or cannot maintain themfelves in a found ftate for
a fufficicnt time. Thefe difadvantages inbred with them can
hardly ever be intircly removed ; and they get very little or
nothing from age. Defcdive at firll:, they feldom grow much
better, and therefore are really inferior to liquors, which re-
quire the afllftance of fubflituted ferments, to become real
wines.
The Theory (?/ Brewing. 63
Avines. In fome artificial fermentations, the ferments are {0
duly adminiltrated, and fo intimately blended with the liquors,
that in the end they approach veiy near to, and even vie
with, the moft perfedt natural wines. Were I to enter into-
a more minute detail, it might be fliewn, that wines, when
tranfported from a hot climate to a cold one, arc often hurt
hi their progrefs, and from thence become or remain im-
perfe<5l, whereas beers may be fo brewed, as to be adapted
either to a hot or a cold region, not only without any dif-
advantage, but with a coniiderable improvement.
Hitherto I have confidered grapes as a moift pulpous fruit,
fullkient to furnifh the quantity of water neceffary for ex-
trading tlie other parts: but the natives of the countries where
this fruit abounds, in order to preferve them, as near as pof-
lible in the primitive ftate, after they are gathered, fufpend
them in barns, or place them in ovens, to dry. Thus, being,
in great meafure, diverted of their aqueous particles, thefc
grapes remain almoft inadive, without juices fuflkient to form
wines, unlefs water be added to them. This element becomes
in tliis cafe, a fu'bftitute, and confequently the liquors pro-
duced in this manner may be accounted the Jirfi clafs of ar-
tificial wines.
In all bodies , the various proportions of their confti-
tuent parts , produce different effeds ; hence they remaia
more or lefs in a durable ftate , and tend either to in-
adion, fermentation, or putrefadlon. Now, by a judicl-
I i ous-
64 7^^ Theory <7/'Brew.ing»
ous fubflitution of fiich parts as fLall be wanting, they may
be reflored to their priftine nature; as may be proved by
the obfervations and experiments communicated to the public
byDr. Fringle. Thus grapes, though dried and exported from
their natural climate to another, by the addition of water on-
ly, ferment fpontaneoully, and form wines very near alike to
fuch, as they would have produced before. It may, with confi-
dence, be fiid, that, when any conliderable difference ap-
pears, it arifes from the injudicious manner, hi which the
\\:ater is adminiilered, from the fruits not. being duly macerat-r,
ed, or from want of fuch heat being conveyed to the water
and fruit, as the juices would have had, if they had been ex-
prefled out of the grapes when juft gathered ; often from
the whimlical mixture of other bodies therewith, and per-
haps too, from the quantity of brandy, which is always
put to wines abroad , to prevent their fretting on board a-
fhip. Upon the whole, though, from what jufl now has been'
faid, fome fmall diiTerence mufl' take place, it rather proves
than contradids the faft, that, a due quantity of water being
applied to dry raifins, an extra6t may be formed, which will
be impregnated with all the necelTary conftituent parts the
grapes had in them when ripe upon the vine, and confequent-
' ly will fpontaneoully ferment, and make a vinous'liquor.
Vegetables, in their original ftate, are diviliblc in'o the
pulpous and farinaceous kinds , bodi pofTeffing the fame
conftituent parts , though in different projX)rtions. If
from .the farinaceous fuch parts be taken away as they fui-
pcrabound
'The Theory c/" B r e \v i n g. 65'
perabound in, and others be added, of which they are de--
•fective, thefe vegetables may, by fuch means, be brought to
refemble, in the proportion of their parts, more efpe-'
cially in their miifts, tlie natural wines I Have before been
treating of : and this being nniverfally acknowledged to be
the ftandard of wines, the nearer any fermented liquor ap-
proaches thereto, by its lightnefs, tranfparency and tafte, the
greater mull its perfedion be.
To enquire which of the pulpous or which of the fa-
rinaceous kinds of vegetables are fittcft for the purpofe of
Wine-fnaking,' Alvould here be an uneceflary digreffion. Ex-
perience, the beft guide, hath on the one fide, given the pre-
ference to the fruit of the vine, and on the other to barley.
To make a vinous liquor from barley, having all the properties
of that produced from the grape, is a talk, which can only
be compafTed by icndering the wort of thefe limilar to the
muft of the other.
As malt liquors require the addition of other fubllitutes,
befides water, to become perfeft wines, they can only be
ranked in the fecond clafs of artificial fermentation. Thefe;
fubftitutes are properly called /i-z'/w^;//;, and deferve the clofeft
attention of the brewer.
• Ferments, in general, fuch as yeaft, flowers or Ices erf
wine, honey, the exprefTed juices of ripe fruits, are fubjedts
more or lefs replete with elaftic air, and conveying the fame!
to
66 The Theory o/" Brewing.
to the mufls, which {land in need of it. Boerhaave has
langed ihefe, and feveral others, in different claffes, accord-
ing to their different powers, or rather in proportion to the
quantity of air they contain for tliis purpofe.
The juice of the grape, when fermented, forms more
lees than the decodion of malt. May we not infer from
thence, that in the fiuit, the claflic air is both more abun-
dant , and contained in a greater number of ff ronger ,
tliough fmaller, veficles, than it is in the malt ? The bar-
ley, being firff faturated with water, and then dried and
parched, has its air in part driven out; for the heat, which
performs the operation of malting, much exceeds the limits
of fermentation. The expulfion of air from the worts of
beers and ales is ftill farther effefted by the long boiling
which the extrads of malt undergo. Hence the necefTity of
replacing the loft elaftic air, in order that thefe extrads may
become fermentable. This is effeded by means of the yeaft,
which, confifting of a colledion of fmall bubbles, filled with
air, and ready to burft by a fuflicient heat, becomes the fer-
ment , which facilitates the change of the wort into a vi-
nous liquor.
The mufts of malt generally produce two gallons of yeafl
from one quarter of the grain, whereas, in the coldeft fer-
mentable weather, one gallon of yeaft is fuflicient to work
that quantity of malt. Much elaftic air ftill remains in beer,
or wine from corn, after the firft ad of fermentation is
over,
*the Theory<7/'Brewing. 67
over, and the liquor is ieparated from the yeaft above men-
tioned, as it is then neither flat, vapid, or four. If then
we fay that malts, by their being dried, and liaving their
extradls boiled, loofe one part in three of their air, we (hall
not perhaps be very far from truth.
As the loft air, juft mentioned , is replaced chiefly by means
of the yeaft, it muft be obferved that the aerial veficles of yeaft,
the lees or flowers of malt liquor, arc of a weaker texture,
and more equal in fize than thofe of grapes ; and confequent-
ly that the air in the bubbles is not fo much compreffed. This
probably arifes from the oils of the malt being lefs tenaci-
ous than thofe of the grapes, from their firft fermentation
being completed in a much fhorter time, and from the greater
heat in the fermentation which produced the flowers. Their
cffedl is therefore more fpeedy, infomuch that, were the air
bubbles produced from malt , and applied to a muft, equal
in number to thofe produced from the fame quantity of the unfer-
mented juice of grapes, their quick explofion could fcarcely
be termed a fermentation, the fpirituous parts would fly off,
the liquor foon ficken, and be void of every enlivening pria-
ciple.
Hops, which have the quality to check the pronenefs that
malts have to ferment, are therefore neceftary to beers in-
tended to be kept long ; and, on this account alfo, all arti-
ficial fermentations fhould be carried on in the coolcft and
ilowcft manner poflfiblc. This ftiows likewife, that beers,
but
6S 72^ T n E o R V 0/ B R E w I N g;
but more efpecially ales, ouglit not to be racked from their
lees, as it is frequently pradifed for natural wines, unlefs, on
account of fome dcfeft, they are to be blended with frefli worts
under a new fermentation. ;
As all ferments, as well as hops, are liable to be tainted,
great care ought to be taken in the choice of them, every
imperfedion in the ferment being readily communicated to
the mufl. It would not therefore be an improper quellion
to be determined by phyficians, whether, iij a time of fick-
nefs the ufe of thofe, which have been made in infeded
places ought to be permitted, and whether, at all times, a
drink fermented in a pure and wholefome air is not prefer-
able to that which is made among fogs, fmoke, and naufe-
ous flenches *.
Wines from corn are diftinguiflied by two appellations, viz. thofe
©f ale and beer. As each of thefe liquors has fuifered in its charac-
ter, either from prejudice or want of a futliclent enquiry, it may
be proper to levy the objedions made againfl: their ufe, before
we enquire into the means of their formation. The mofl cer-
tain fign of the wholefomenefs of wines, is tranfparency and
]i<>-htnefs; yet fome which are rich, more efpecially ales, tho*
perfedly line, have been faid to be vifcid. Tranfparency ap-
* By Dr. Hales's experiments made meriting, a quantity of air equal to
for difcovering the proportion of air ge« nearly one third part of its volume ;
nerated from different bodies, it ap- and ale, under the like circumftanccs,
pciis that raifin wi.ie, abforbed, in fer- abforbcd one fifth.
pears
iTie Theoryo/'Brewing. 6g
pears indeed in many wines, before the oils are attenuated to
their higheft perfedion, as we have before remarked, and fome
vifcidity may therefore be confiftent with fome degree of pel-
lucidity. Where the powers of the oils and the falts are equal,
which is denoted by the brightnefs of the liquor, vifcidity can
only arife from the want of age : in this cafe the fault is not in
the defcd, but in the mifapplication of the liquor, which has been
ufcd too foon.
That beers retain igneous or fiery particles , feems equally
a miftake. Malts dried to keep have undoubtedly their par-
ticles removed by fire, beyond their fphere of attradion : elfe
they would not be in a fit ftate to preferve themfelves found.
For this reafon, when they firft come in contad with the wa-
ter, which is to extrad them, they caufe an effervefcent heat,
which adds to the extrading power, and fhould be looked on by
the brewer as an auxiliary help ; but it is impoffible that the malt
or the muft, fhould ever inclofe and confine the fire employed in
their formation. It is of fo fubtile a nature, that its particles, when
contained in a body, continually tend to fly off, and mix with the
furrounding air; fo that only an equal degree, with what is in
the atmofphere, can be continued in the grain, or any liquor
whatever, after it has been, for fome time, expofed thereto.
Brown beers made from malt more dried than any other are,
from experience, found to be lefs heating than liquors brewed
from pale malt ; which probably arifcs from hence, that brown
beers contain a lefs quantity of elalllc air than pale beers, as
pale malt liquors contain lefs than wines, produced from vege-
K tablet
no I7je Theory ^Brewing.
tables in their natural flate : and as malt liquors contain their
elaftic air in bubbles of a weaker conliilcnce tUan thofe made
from the juices of the grape , the effeft of beer , when
taken in an over-abundant quantity, is neither of fo long a con-
tinuance, nor io powerful as that of wine, fuppofing the
quality and quantity of each to be equal. This may appear
to fome perfons to be die efFeft of prejudice, yet it is but a ju-
flice due to the produce of my country, to add, that fome phyfi-
cians have given it as their opinion, that ftrong drinks from malt
are lefs pernicious than thofe produced from grapes. As far as
thefe gentlemen, I hope I may advance, without being thought
guilty of affuming too much, or countenancing debauch, by
pointing out the wines that occalion the feweft diforders.
K (ft ** ^ a
« -!• m
SECT. IX.
TIm Theory^Brewing. yi
SECTION IX.
0/ //&? NATURE 0/ BARLEY.
»jat~'tSf« ARLEY is a fpicated, oblono-, vent ricofe feed.
T B V P<^i^f^d ^t each end, and marked with a longitii-
g{"..|.. ..|..^ dinal furrow. The efiential conftitution of th«
3S}2t~°''I»ja,p^j.jg jj^ all plants, fays Dr. Grew, is the fame:
thus this feed, like all plants which have lobes, is furnifhed with
radical veflels, which having a correfpondence with the whole
body of the corn, are always ready, when moiftencd, to ad-
minifter fupport to the phime of the embryo, or what is ufu-
ally called the acrofpire. Thefe radical vefTels, at firfV, re-
ceive their nourifhment from a great number of glandules dif-
perfed almoft every where in the grain, whofe pulpous parts
ftrain and refine this food fo as to fit it to enter the capillary
vefTels ; and fuch an abundant provifion is made for this nou-
rishing of the plume, that the fame author fays, thefe glan-
dules take up more than nine tenths of the feed.
It is fovvn about March, fooner or later, according to the
foil that is to receive it, and generally houfed from ten to
twenty weeks time after. Moft plants, which fo haftily per-
form the office of vegetation, are remarkable for having their
vefTels proportionably larger; and that thefe may be thus form-
ed, the feed muft contain a greater quanlity of tenacious oils, in
proportion, than thofe feeds, whofe vefTels being fmaller, re-
K 2 quire
7 2 ^he Theory ©/"Brewing.
•quird more time to perform their growth, and come to matu-
rity. Barley alfo, as may be obferved, grows and ripens with
the lower degrees of natural heat; from whence and from the
largenefs of the iize of its abforbent veffcis, it muft receive a
large portion of acid parts. It is faid to be vifcid, though at
the fame time a great cooler, water boiled with it being often
drank as fuch ; and however it be prepared, it never heats the
body when unfermented.
From thefe circumftances, of its being vifcous and replete
with acids, it would at firft appear to be a moft unfit vegeta-
ble, from which vinous liquors, to be long kept, fhould be
made; and indeed the extracts from it in i:s original llate are
not only clammy, but foon become four.
When the grain is at full maturity, its conftituent parts
feem to be differently difpofed, than when in a ftate of ve-
getation. By germination alone all its principles are put in
action; the fibrous parts poffefs themfelves of a great quantity
of tenacious oils, leaving the glandules and finer veflels re-
plete with water, falts and the purefl: fulphur. If, in this
ftate, the corn is placed in fuch a fituation, that, by heat, the
acid and watery parts may be evaporated, the more fuch heat
is fuffered to affed it, the more dry, and lefs acid will the
corn become; its parts will be divided, its vifcidity removed ; its
tafte become faccharine, by the acids being fhealhed or covered
over with oils ; and thefe lafl be rendered more tenacious in pro-
portion to the greater quantity of heat they have received. This
procefs
Ttie THEORy<7/'BREWING. 73
procefs regularly carried on is what is termed malting, and will
hereafter be explained at large.
But before wc enter thereon , it is neceflary to confi-
der the ftate of the grain as it comes from the field. When
mowed, though upon the whole it may be faid to be ripe, yet
every individual part, or every corn cannot be fo. In fome
feafons, this inequality is fo remarkable, as to be diftinguifh-
cd by the eye. The difference in the fituation, the foil, and
the weather, the changes of the winds, the fhelter fome parts
of the field have had from fuch winds, are fufficient to ac-
count for this, and indeed a much greater variety. When
the greater part of the corn is fuppofed to have come to ma-
turity, it is cut and llacked ; the ripeft parts have the leall:
moirture, and the fewefl: acids; and the greeneft abound in
both. In this ftate, the unripe grains of the corn commu-
nicate, to fuch as are more dry, their moifture and acid parts,
which coming in contaft with their oils, an agitation enfucs,
more or lefs gcnde, in proportion to the power of the acids
and water ; and from this arifcs a heat, the degree whereof can
hardly be determined.
When this fweating in the mow is kept within its proper
limits, the whole heap of the corn, after the fermentation is over,
becomes of one equable drynefs, and is not difcoloured ; but
if the grain be put together too wet or too green, the heat
occafioncd thereby will produce fuch a violent inteftine motion,
-as to charr and blacken the greateft part thereof, nay often make
it burft into adual flame. The
74 7/5^ Theory of B r e w i h g.
The effed, which a moderate and gentle ferment has on
the corn, is that of driving the oils towards the external
parts of its veffels, and fkin ; by this means, it becomes more ca-
pable of pref^rving itfelf againft the injuries of the weather.
, The more it is in this ftate, the backwarder will it be to ger-
minate, when nfed to this purpofe ; and if this a<5t is carried too
far, as we have before feen, the plume and root of the enclofed
embryo muft be quite fcorched, and the corn become inert
and incapable of vegetation. This effeft is produced, by a mo-
tion fufficient to remove the particles of the grain from each
other beyond their fphere of attradion; and the heat, by which
tliis motion is excited, has been found by experience to be at
about 120 degrees.
It is likely, that vegetables, in general, are fufceptible of a
large latitude in this refpeft, according to their different tex-
tures. The degree of heat juft now mentioned may , per-
haps, be applicable only to barley : the feeds of fome grapes
endure i 24 degrees of heat, and may be capable of being
impreffed with more, and yet vegetate. But if the oils of
the corn become fo tenacious as to be difcoloured, the feed
can fcarcely be revived; and this may happen fooner or la-
ter, by heat, in proportion to the cohefion and weight of
the parts. This is a point properly to be judged of by the
color of the grain, and is more immediately the bufinefs of
the farmer and maltfler than that of tliQ brewer.
Thus,
T^e Theory<7/"Brewing. yr
Thus, though it may be difadvantageous to the maltfter, to
fteep grain which has not fvveated in the mow, as, from this
reafon, it will not equally imbibe the water ; fo barley that
is overheated, or moiv burnt., cannot be lit for his purpofe. It
is in fadl fcarcely poffible, that any large quantity of barley,
from the fame ftack, fhould make equally perfect malt, as, on
its being put together, the heat generated is always greateft
in the center of the rick, and conliderably more fo there, than
in its exterior parts.
SECT. X.
y6 The Theory<?/"Brewing.
S E C T I O N X.
Cy MALTING.
"^ir^-V-^^'^., HIS procefs is intended to furnlfh proper means, for
«# ,*&.~=.0, ^ fetting the conftituent principles of the grain in
A ;<3if>°.5( ij) motion : fo that the oils, which before ferved to
''0:^-'r^"P'.. defend the feveral parts, may be enabled to take
their proper ftations. This is effeded by fteeping the bar-
ley in water, where it flrongly attradts moillure, as all dry
liodies do; but it requires fome time before the grain is ful-
ly faturated therewith. Two or three days, more or lefs, arc
neceflary, in proportion to the heat of the air : for vegeta-
bles receive the water only, by its flraining through the out-
ward fkin, and abforbent vefTels, and their pores are fo ve-
ry fine, that they require this element to be reduced almoft
to a vapor, before it can gain admittance. Heat hath not
only the property of expanding thefe pores, but perhaps al-
fo that of rendering water more fit to make its way into
them.
By the water gaining admittance into the corn, a great quan-
tity of air is expelled from it, as appears from the number of
bubbles which arife on the furface of the water ; yet ftill
much remains tlicrein. A judgment is formed that the corn
is fully faturated with water, fo as not to be able to imbibe
any more of it, from its turgidity, and pulpoufnefs, which oc-
m cafions
'The T H E O R V 0/ B R E W I N C. 77
cafions it readily to give way to an iron rod dropped per-
pendicularly therein. Then is the water let go, or drawn off,
the grain taken out of the ciUcrn, and laid in a regular heap.
As hay, or any otlier moift vegetable, when ilacked together^
grows hot, fo doth this heap of barley. The heat, alTifted by
the moillure, puts in motion the acids, oils, and elalVic air
remaining in the corn, and thefe, with united power, force
the juices from the glandular parts into the rools, which are
thereby difpofed to feek and receive nourifhment for the em-
bryo or acrofpire, and the plume is loftened by its proximity
to the body of the grain. The root having received fome
power (before it expands its fibres) by the heated elaftic air,
prefles the oils towards the acrofpire. The corn in the heap is
however not fuffered to acquire too great a degree of heat, and
carry on the germination too faft, by which not only the finer
but alfo the coarferoils, would be raifed and entangled together,
and the malt when made become bitter and ill tafted ; it is there-
fore, at a due temperature, difperfed in beds on the floor of
the malt houfe , and gradually fpread thinner and thinner.
Care is taken to turn it frequently from time to time, in propor-
tion as it is more or lefs flow in growth, fo that it may come
tolerably dry to the kiln, in fuch a fl:ate as its fibrous roots fhall
be fpread, and the fpire be near coming through the outward
(kin of the barley. By thefe figns the maltfler is fatisfied, that
every part of the grain has been put in motion, and fqjarated.
The corn, thus prepared for drying, is, in this lively and adive
condition, fpread on the kiln; where meeting with a heat fu-
L perior
^8 Tl^e Theory o/Brevving.
perior to that requifite for vegetation, its farther growth is
flopped : though in all probabilsy? from the gentlencfs of
the firft fire it ought to be expofed to, none of the finer
vefTels are, by this fudden change, rent or torn, but, by dry-
inf^, only fh rivelled up, rendered inaftive, and put in a pre-
fervative flate. Now let it be obferved, that thofe oils which
fill the roots, being with <hem puflied out from the body
of the grain, and dried by hea* , are loll: to any future wort,
not being foluble in wafer ; which is likewife true of thofe
parts which are contained in the fhoot or plume : fo that
the internal parts of the malt have remaining in them a
greater proportion of falts to tlie oils then before, and confc-
quently are lefs vifcid , more faccharine , and eafier to be
• extrafted.
In this procefs, the acid parts of the grain, though they
are the mofi ponderous, yet being very attradive of water,
become weaker, and, by the continued heat of the kiln, arc
volatilized and evaporated with the aqueous fleam of the
malt. Thus, by malting, the grain acquires new properties,
and thefe vary at the different flages of drynt fs ; in the firft
it refembles the fruits ripened by a weaker fun, and in the
lafl thofe which are the growth of the hottefl climates.
When the whitencfs of the barley has not been greatly chang-
ed by the heat it has been kept in, it is called pale malt,
from its having retained its original color ; but when the fire in
the
Tlje T H E O R Y <?/" B R E W I N G. ijQ^
the kiln has been made more vehement, and kept up a longer
time, it affeds both the oils and the falts of the grain, in })ro-
portion both to the degree of the heat, and to the time it has been
maintained, and thus occafions a confiderable alteration in the
color. Adual blackneJ's feldom is, and ought never to be, fufFer-
ed in malts, but in proportion to the intenfcnefs of the fire they
have been expofed to, they nearer and nearer come to that tinge,
and from the different brown the)' fhow, receive their feveral
denominations.
The condition (he barley was gathered in, whether green
or ripe, is alfo clearly difcernible when it is malted. If gather-
ed green, it rather lofes than gains in quantity ; for the ftock
of oils of unripe corn being fmall, the whole is fpent in germi-
nation, the malt becomes of afmaller body, appears fhrivelled,
and is often unkindly hardened. That, on the contrary, which
hath come to full maturity, encreafes by malting, and if pro-
perly carried through the procefs, appears plump, bright and
clean, and, on being cracked, readily yields the fine mealy
parts, fo much defired by the brewer.
The malts, when dried to the pitch intended by the mak-
er, are removed from the kiln into a heap. There their
heat gradually diminifhes, and from the known properties
of fire, flies off, and difperfes itfelf in the ambient air, foon-
er or later as the heap is more or lefs voluminous, perhaps
too in fome proportion to the weight of the malt, and as
the fire has caufed it to be more or lefs tenacious. Nor can
L2 it
So *The Theory o/Brewing;
it be fuppofed, that any of its parts are capable to retain
tlie fire in fuch a manner, as not to fufFer it to get away.
So fubtile an element cannot be confined, and much lefs
be kept in a ftate of inadivity, and imperceptible to our fenfcs.
Bars of iron or brafs, even of a confiderable fize, when heat-
ed red hot, cool and lofe their fire, though their texture
is undoubtedly much clofer than that of malt or barley.
The experiments made by Dr. Martin, on the heating and
cooling of feveral bodies, leave no room to doubt of this fail',
I fhould not be fo panicular about it, was it not to explain
the technical phrafe ufed by brewers, when they fay, malts
are full of Ji'-e, or want fire. Hence a prejudice hath by fomc
been conceived againft drinks made from brown malts, tho'
they have been many months of the kiln, and b.ave no more
heat in them, either whole or ground, than the air they are
kept iii. The truth of the matter is, that in proportion as inalts
are dried, their particles are more or lefs feparated from one
another beyond their fphere of attradion, and coming in con-
tad with another body, fuch as water, llrongly attrad from
it the uniting particles they want. The more violent this
intefiine motion is, the greater is the heat juft then gene-
rated, and no ways durable. An effed fomewhaf fimijar to
what happens on malt being united with wafer, mufl: occur
x)n the grain being mafticated ; and the imprefTion made on
the palate mofl: probably gave rile to the technical expref-
iion juft taken notice of.
The
The THEORYij/'BREWING. 8 I
The minute circumftances of the procefs of malting will
be more readily conceived from what will hereafter be faid.
The effefts that fire will have, at feveral degrees, on \vhat
from having been barley is now become malt, are moil par-
ticularly the concern of the brewer ; and that they arc vari-
ous, both as to the color and properties of the malt, is cer ain.
A determinate degree of heat produces, on every body, a cer-
tain alteration, and hence, as the adion of fire is ftronger or
weaker, the effeft will be different from what it would have
been in any other degree.
Barlies may, at a medium, be faid to lofe, by malting, one
fourth part of their weight, including what is feparated from
them by the roots being fkreened off : but this proportion va-
ries, according as they are more or lefs dri-ed.
As the acrofplre, and both the outward and inward fkins of
the grain are not diffoluble in water, the glandular or mealy fub-
flance is certainly very inconfiderable in volume and in weight ;
but as this alone poffefTes the fermentable principles cf the
grain, it deferves our utmofl attention.
We have before feen, that wines, beers and ales, after the
firft fermentation, are meliorated through age, by the more re-
fined and gentle agitations they undergo, and which often are
not perceptible to our fenfes. To fecure this favorable effed
we muft form worts capable of maintaining themfelves, for
fome time, in a found flate. This quality, however, if not
originally
82 Tfi^ Theory ^y Brewing.
originally in the malt, is not to be expefted in the liquor. Some
o'jjedlions have been rdifed againft this method of arguing,
and thefe aided by prejudices often niore powerful than the
objeflions themfelves. It is therefore neceflliry, as malting may
be efteemed the foundation of all our future fuccefs, to enquire
after the beft and propereft methods of fucceeding in this procefs.
Let us, for this purpofe, re-afTume the confideration of the
grain, as it comes from the mow, trace it to the kiln, and ob-
ferve every change it undergoes by the aftion of the fire,
from the time that it receives the firft degree of prefervati-
on to that, when it is utterly altered and nearly deflroyed.
Barley in the mow, though it fcarcely fupporfs a heat much
greater than of loo degrees, may be extrafted or brewed
without malting. This the difliller's pradice daily evinces ;
but then the extrads, made from this unchanged corn, are im-
mediately put in the flill after the firft fermentation, elfe
they would not long remain in a found flate. Nor is this me-
thod even pradicable in fummer time, as the extrads would
turn four, before they were fufliciently cooled to ferment. It
is true indeed, that, by this means, all the charge of the malt
duty is faved ; but our fpirits are thereby made greatly inferior
to thofe of the French. Boerhaave recommends the pradice of
that nation, which is to let the wines ferment, fubfide, and
be drawn off fine from the lees, before they are diftilled.
Was this rule obferved in England, diflillation would only be
attempted from malted grain, and the difference in the fpi-
rit would foon flicw, how ufeful, nay how necefTary it is to
give
The Theory(?/"Brewing. ^-^
give wines, (either from grapes or corn,) time to be foRcncd,
before th.y are ufed for any purpofe whatever.
But might not barleys be dried without being germinated }
Undoubtedly they might ; but as they abound with many acids
and flrong oils, they would require a heat more intenfe than
malt doth, before they were fufficiently penetrated, and then the
oleaginous parts would become fo compadl, and fo refinous,
as nearly to acquire the confiftence of a varnifli, fcarcely to
be mollified by the hotteft water, and hardly ever to be in-
tirely diflblved by that element.
Barley then ungerminated, either in its natural ftate or when
dried, is not fit for the purpofe of making wines ; but when,
by germination, the coarfer oils are expelled, and the
mealy parts of the grain , become faccharine , might not
that fuffice, and where is the necefTity of the grain being
dried by fire ? I fhall not dwell on the difiiculty of flopping
germination at a proper degree without fire, fo that fufficient
quantities of the grain thus prepared, may always be provided
for the purpcfes of brewing ; nor even infift upon the difficul-
ty, and perhaps impoffibility of grinding fuch grain, as it would
then be fpungy and tough. I thijik it fufficient to mention
folely the unfitnefs of this imperfe6l malt, for the purpofe it is
to be applied to, that of forming beers and ales capable of
preferving themfclves for fomc time. We fhould find fo ma-
ny acids blended with the water flill remaining in the grain,
that, in tlie moft favorable ieafons for brewing, they would
often
6^ llje Theoryo/Brewing.
often render all our endeavours abortive, and in fummer time
make it imprafticable to brew the extracts from fuch grain in
any manner whatever.
I have heard of a projed: of germinating grain, and dry-
ing it by the heat of the fun in fummer time, in order, by this
means, to fave the expencc of fuel : but, tho' the hottefl: da}'s in
England may be thought fufficient for this aft, as well as for
making hay, yet as barley and grafs are not of equal denfities,
the effefts would not be the fame. This however is not the only
objeftion to this fcheme. As the grain is to be grown to a
certain degree before it is flopped, this very hot feafon, favor-
able in appearance to one part of the procefs, -would be di-
reftly contrary to the other ; for the barley, by this heat,
would fhoot and come forward fo faft as to entangle too much
the conftituent principles of the grain with one another, and
drive the coarfer ill tafted oils among the finer fweet mealy
parts, which alone, in their utmoft purity, are the fubjeft re-
quired for fuch as would obtain good drinks.
Here I cannot help obferving the general difpofition of man-
kind to wifli for the gifts of providence, in a different manner
than they have been vouchfafed to us. Thefe various fchemcs, if
1 miftake not, have fprung from the defire of having beers and
ales of the lame appearances with white wines. But as they
are naturally more yellow or brown, all fuch projefts, by which
wc endeavour to force fome fubjefts to be of a like color
with others, are but fo many attempts againll nature, and
the
The Theory 0/ Brewing. 85
the profecution of tliem mufl commonly be attended with
difappointments. It is true, that, though malts be dried flack,
yet if they be made in winter, fpeedily ufed, and brewed in
the molt proper feafon, they may make a tolerable drink ,
which will preferve itfelf found for fomc time : but as the
proportion, which fliould be kept between the heat which dried
the malt, and that which extradls it, cannot in this cafe take
place, and as the grain will be more replete with air, wa-
ter and acids, than it ought to be, the drink, even by fup-
pofing the moft fortunate fuccefs, and that it doth not foon
turn acid, will ftill be frothy, produce explofions, and be
therefore greatly wanting in falubrity ; for an excefs in any of
the fermentable principles is always hurtful.
Barley then, to be made fit for the purpofe of brewing,
muft be malted; that is, it muft be made to fprout or ger-
minate with degrees of heat nearly eqnal to thofe which the
feed fhould be imprefled with when fown in the ground ;
and it muft be dried with a heat fuperior to that of ve-
getation, and capable of checking it. How far germination
fhould be carried on, we have already feen ; the law feems to
be fixed univerfally, as 10 the extent of the acrofpire : the degree
of drynefs admits of a larger latitude, and to what extent it
may be properly pufhed fhall be the fubjedt of our next enquiry.
Malt dried in fo low a degree, as that the vegetative pow-
er is not intirely deftroyed, will, on laying together in a heap,
generate a new, tho' fmall, heat, germinate afrcfh, and fend
M fprth
86 TJje Theory o/" Brewing.
forth its plumes and acrofpires quite green. The ultimate
parts of the nourhliing principles are then within each other's
power of adling , elfe this regermination could not take
place ; and fuch grain cannot be faid to be malted, or in a
prefervative ftate. Bodies, whofe particles are removed, by
heat, beyond their fphere of attradion, can no more germi-
nate ; but coming in coni.aft with other bodies, as malt with
water, they effervefce. The grain, we are now fpeaking
of, firft fhews this ad of effervefcence, when it has been tho-
roughly imprefled with a heat of 120 degrees, when alfo
its color, from a white, begins to incline to the yellow. Such
are the malts, which are cured in a manner to be able to main-
tain themfelves found, though in this ftatc they ftill pofTefs as
much air, and as many acid and watery particles as they
are capable of. This therefore may be termed the firft or
lowell degree of drying this grain for malt.
To difcover the laft or greateft degree of heat it is capa-
ble of enduring, we have no circumftance to dired us, with
the fame certainty as efFcrv^efccnce helped us to the firl>. We
muft therefore have recourfc to the obfervafion of that heat,
which wholly deprives the grain of its principal virtues. Now,
to ufe Dr. Shaw's words, alcohol is one of the moj^ ejjlntial pa ts
of wine; when abfent, the wine loofes its na'ure, and ivhen
properly diffiifed, it is a certain remedy for moft difeafes in-
cident to wines, and keeps them found and free from corrupti-
on ; from whence was derived the metliod of preferx'ing vegeta-
ble and animal fubftances from corruption. The fame excel-
lent
The Theory (?/ Brewing. %'j
lent author had before this obfcrved, that no fuhjeSls but thofe of
the vegetable kingdom are found to produce this preferving fpirit . Is
alcohol then a new body created by fermentation and diltillation,
or did it originally, though latently, refide in the vegetable ? /
baveJorago4ivLite,beenfatiiJied,byexperimenti,{{Ay%^OQx]\-a.2MQ,)
that all other infammable bodies are fo only as they contain alco-
hol in them, ort at teajl, fomethitig that, on account of its finenefs,
is exceedingly like it, the grcjfer parts thereof, that are left be-
hind, after the feparation of this fubtil one, being no longer
combufille.
Now as the fame author has clearly proved *, that fire,
by burning eombuftible bodies , as well as by dillilling
them, feparjtes their different inflammable principles, ac-
cording to their various degrees of fubtility, the alcohol
reliding in the barley, when expofed to fuch a degree of heat as
would caufe it to boil, i. e. 175 degrees, muft make great
efforts to difengage itfelf from the grain. Is it net therefore
moR: natural to conclude, that, in a body like malt, pre-
pared for fermentation, or the making a vinous liquor, this
event will probably happen at the fame time that malt charrs ?
and if this is true, may not charring be termed the laft de-
gree of drynefs, as, when it takes place, the acid parts and
fineft oils, which are necefiary for forming a fermentable
muft, fly off, and cannot be recovered. Charring feems to
be a crifis in folid bodies, fomewhat analogous to ebullition
• Bocihaavc Elem. of Chem. Vol. I. p. J55-199. Exp. 8, 9,10,11, 12, and 13.
M 2 in
88 "The Theory 0/ B r e w i n g.
in fluids. Both are thereby perfeflly faturated with fire,
their volatile and fpirituous parts diiTipated, but their fixed
principles not entirely deftroyed. Now, as liquors boil with
a greater or lefs heat, in proportion to their tenacity and gra-
vity, folid bodies may likewife be charred with different pro-
portions of heat. The whole body of the barley cannot, at
the fame inftant, become black, nor, where any quantity of
the grain is otherwife in fimilar circumftances, if not equally
germinated, can the whole charr with the fame degree of
heat.
To the feveral refledions, before made, I thought pro-
per to add the furer help of experience. I therefore made
the following trial, with all the care I was capable of. If
the effedts of it appear, as I hope they will, fatisfadtory, by
gaining two limited and dirtant degrees, we may determine
and fix the properties of the intermediate fpaces , in pro-
portion to their expanfion.
In an earthen pan, of about two feet diameter, and three
inches deep, I put as much of the paleft malt, unequally
grown, as filled it on a level to the brim. This I placed
over a little charcoal lighted in a fmall ftove, and kept con-
tinually ftirring it from bottom to top.
At firft it did not feel fo damp as it did about half an hour
after. In about an hour more it began to look of a bright
orange color on the outfide, and appeared more fwelled than
before.
The Theory^Brewing. S9
before. Every one is fenfible, that a long-continued ciiftom
makes us fufficient judges of colors , and this fenfe in a
brewer is fulliciently exercifed. Then I mafticated fome
of the grain, and found them to be nearly fucli as are term-
ed brown malts. On ftirring and making a heap of them
towards tlie middle, I placed therein, at about halt depth, the
bulb of my thermometer, and found that it rofe to 140 de-
grees: the malt felt very damp, and had but little fmell.
At 1 65 degrees I examined it in the fame manner as be-
fore, and could perceive no damp ; the malt was very brown,
and on bein^ chewed, fome few black fpecks appeared.
Many corns, neareft the bottom, were now become black
and burnt ; I placed my thermometer nearly there, and it
rofe to 175 degrees: but as the particles of fire afcending
from the ftove adl on the thermometer in proportion to the
diftance of the fituation it is placed in, through the whole
experiment an abatement of five degrees fhould be allowed ,
as near as I could eftimate. Putting a little after my ther-
mometer in the fame pofition , where about half the corns
were black, it fhewed i 80 degrees. I now judged, that the
water was nearly all evaporated, and I obferved, that the
heap grew black apace.
Again, in the center of the heap raifcd in the middle '
of the pan, I found the thermometer at 1 80 degrees ; the
corn tallied burnt, the furface appeared, abou. one half part a
full brown, and the reft black. On being mafticated ftill
fome
9© iTie Theory <?/' Brewing.
fomc white fpecks appeared, which I obferved to proceed
from thofe barley-corns, which liad not been thoroughly ger-
minated, and whofe parts cohering more clofcly together,
the fire, at this degree, had not penetrated. Their tafte
was infipid, the malt brittle, the ftin ready to part. The ther-
mometer was now more various, as it was nearer to, or farther
from the bottom ; and in my opinion all the true malt was
charred.
I, neverthelefs, continued the experiment, and at 190 de-
grees, ftill found fome white fpecks on chewing the grain,
the acrofpire always appearing of a deeper black or brown
than the outward fkin ; the corn, at this jundure, fried at
the bottom of the pan.
I llill encreafed the fire; and the thermometer, placed in
the middle between the bottom of the pan and the upp r edge
of the corn, ihewed 2 10 degrees. The malt hi/Tcd, fried and
fmoaked abundantly. Though, during the whole proccfs, the
grain had been kept flirring, yet on cxaminaiion, the whole
was not equally afFcded by the fiie. I found a great part
thereof reduced to perfcft cinders, eafily cnimbling to dufi: be-
tween the fingers, fome of a very black hue, without glofs,
fome very black, with oil fliining on the outfiJe. Upon
the whole, two tliirds of the corn were perfectly black, and
the reft of a deep brown, but more or kfs io, as the grains were
hard, flecly, or .'mperfedly germinated. 'Ibis was eafily dif-
covered by the leni^ih of the Ihoot : moi^ of the grains feemcd
to
'The Theory<9/"Brewing. gt
to have loft their coliefion, and had a tafte refembling that
of high-roafted coffee.
In the laft ftage of charring the malt, I placed over it
a wine glafs inverted, iaio wh;ch arole a pinguious oily
matter , which tafte J very fait. It may, perhaps, not be
unneccflary to fay, that the length of time this experiment
took up, was four hours, and that the effedt it liad, both
on myfelf, and on the perfon who attended me, was fuch
as greatly refembled that of inebriation.
Though, from the refult of this experiment, fome doubt
may remain about the exaft degree of heat in which
malt charrs , which pofTibly it is equally difficult and un-
neceflary to fix with the utmoft precilion, yet we fee that
black Ipecks appeared, when the thermometer was at 165
degrees ; that fome of the corns were entirely black at
lyj, and at 180; that the grains thus affeded were
fuch as had been perfedly germinated, and that thofe ,
which bore a greater heat, were defedtive in this refpeft.
May we not, from thence, conclude, with an exadnefs, fure-
ly fufficient for the purpofes of brewing, that true germinated
malts are charred in heats, between 175 and 180 degrees? as
thefe corrcfpond to the degrees, in which pure alcohol, or the
fineft fpirit of the grain itfelf boils at, does not that ethe-
rial enlivening principle difengage itfelf from malted barley,
by that heat ? and are we not hereby inftruded of one reafon,
why this grain is the fitteft for the purpofes of brewing ?
^ SECT. XI.
9 2 ^e Theory ^Brewing.
SECTION XL
Of the different PROPERTIES o/MALT.
'*?>-'^^^-^HE confequences, refulting from the before- mention-
|« T f, ^d experiment, have already been hinted at. Buf
^^^^jj^i it is necefTary to trace them farther, and to fliew
how much they may tend to the information and ufe of the
brewer.
Germinated barleys, fo little dried, as that their particles
remain within tlieir fphere of attradion, are not in a preferva^
tive ftate, and cannot properly be termed malts.
The firft degree of drynefs, which conllitutes them fuch,
is, as we have feen before, that which occafions them to
caufe fome effervefcence. This cannot be effeded, when
they are dried with lefs than 120 degrees of heat, the high-
eft that leaves them white. When urged by a fire of 1 75
degrees, they charr and turn black. Now this difference
in heat, being ^^ degrees, and producing, in the grain, fo
great an alteration, as from white to black, the different
fhades or colors belonging to the intermediate degrees of heat,
cannot, with a little practice, cafily be miftakcn.
White
iToe Theory <?/ Brewing, gj
White, we know from Sir Ifaac Newton's experiments,
is a compoiition of all colors, as black is owing to the ab-
fence of them. Thefe two terms indicate the extremes of
the drynefs of malt. The color, which a middling heat
imprefles upon it, is brown, which being compounded of yel-
low and red, the four tinges, which fhade malt different-
ly, may be faid to be white, yellow, red and black. The
following table, conftrudcd on thefe principles , will , on
chewing the grain, readily inform the practitioner of the de-
gree, to which his malts have been dried.
N A Ta.
g^ Tie Theory^/ Brewing.
A Table of the difFerent degrees of the drynefs
of malt, with the changes of color occafioned
by each incicafe of the degrees.
Degrees.
Jig White ■ White
124 WjW, Yellcw white turning to a light
yellow.
129 W, W, Y, Y, li^ht yellow inclining to
amber.
134 W,W,Y,Y,Red, Amber
1 38 W,W, Y, Y, R, R, — higli amber, or firft brown.
,43 W, Y, Y, R, R, Brown.
148 Y, Y, R, R, middling brown.
152 -Y, R, R,—-rr high brown.
157 Y,R,R, Black brown inclining to black.
162 Y, R, R, B, B, high brown fpeckled with
black.
J 67 R, R, B, B, blackifli brown with black
fpecks,
I -I R^ B, B, Coffee color.
I -6 Black Black.
N. B. The feveral letters againfl: each degree, it is ap-
j^rchcnded, will lielp in pradice to fix the color.
The
The Theory ©/ Brewing. 9^
The foregoing table not only enables ns to judge of the dry-
nefsof the malt by its color, but alfo, when a grift is compofed
of feveral foits of malt, to forefee the effeft of the whole when
blen^ied together by extradion. Some fmall error may poiH-
bly occur in judgments thus formed upon the report of our
fenfes ; but as malts occupy different volumes in proportion to
their diynefs, if, in the pradice of brewing, ujx^n mixing
the wavcr w'x'Ax the malt, the expeded degree is obferved,
fuch parcel of n:alt may be fjid to have been judged of
rightly, in regard to its drynefs. So tliat the firft trial either
contirms or correds our opinion thereof.
Though malls, dried to 120 degrees, are in a prefervative
flate, yet they are the leaft fo as malts. They ftill poffcfs the
whole of their acids; which occafions their fermentation and fret-
tings often to return of themfclvcs, and with much violence :
hence wines, formed from fuch malts, are not of long duration,
and foon become four. If the heat, which is made ufe of in the ex-
traction of thefe malts, is kept up in proportion fo that which
dried them, even fliould the fermentation be very cooly carried
on, and the ales and beers be brewed in the rtioft favorable feafon,
they will arrive at a ftate of ripenefs, in fo fmall a fpace of time
as two weeks. We may therefore confider this, as the firll: fixed
term, for obtaining a fermentable liquor, and fuch a one indeed,
which in the leaft time will be fit for ufe.
When malts charr and become black, their parts are ulti-
mately divided, they can fcarccly polTtfs any acids, nor
N 2 con-
7^^ Theory 0/ B r e w i n g.
confequently remain fufccptible of fermentation ; for fermen-
tation is a divifion of parts, and that cannot admit of a pro-
per divifion that is already too much divided. Tlie degree
(j>f heat then, prior to that which produces this cffed:, is the
lait, which ftill retains part of the fermentable properties. In
malts thus highly imprefleJ by fire, fermentation would pro-
ceed with fo How and relu6tant a pace, that, in this cafe, the
litpor might be faid to be in the utmoft ftate of prefervation.
No term can be fixed for its duration. A liquor of this fort,
brewed with a heat fimilar to that which dried the malt, might
keep many years, and thus become rather more accommodated to
the temperature of the place it was depofited in, than to its own
conflituent parts. Experience has fhewn, that two years are the
limitted fpacc for drinks made from malts dried with 1 62 de-
grees of heat, before they be in a drinkable ftate ; and at this de-
gree of heat, we liave feen that the grains were of a very high
brown and fpeckled widi black, and confequently had many of
their finer parts charred. From thefe two extremes, and on fuch
principles, the following table is formed, exhibiting the length
oi' time that drinks made trom malts of each refpedi\'e degree
of drynefs properly brewed, and in the mofi: favorable feafbn,
will require, before they come to their due perfeftion to
be ufcd.
A Ta-
71je Theory of Brewing.
97
A Table, fliewing the age beers will require, when
properly brewed from malts of different degrees
of drynefs.
Degrees.
119 WHiitc
124 W, W, yellow -
129 W, W,Y, Y,-
2
134 W,VV,Y,Y,Red— - 4
138 W.W,Y,Y,R,R,— - 3
143 W,Y,Y,R,R, 4
Y, Y, R, R 6
Y, R, R I 2
148
152
162
Weeks.
Month.
Months.
Months.
Months *.
Months.
Months.
Months.
Months.
Y,R,R, black 18
Y,R,R, B, B 2 Years.
167 R, R, B, B,
171 R, B, B
176 Black.
* When the medium heat of the the oils, which fuppnrted them found,
drynefs of the malt, and of the heat being carried down by the precipitant,
of the extra<£ls are fo high as to require they will be lef? capable of prefcrv-
the liquors to be forced or precipitated, ing themfelves, after having been preci-
\\\ order to beccme pellutid, part of pitated, than they were before.
It
'the Theory o/* Brewing.
It mnft be obferved, that the fores-oino; table is conflrucfted
' DO
on the fLippofition, that thefe different forts of malt be brewed
and fermented with the utmoil: care, and have a proper addi-
tion of hops; an ingredient which fhall be confidered in its
proper place. What is meant by the ey.traBs being in proporti-
on to the drynefi oj thi malt, may merit fomc explanation.
Grapes, when ripe,, carry with them the water they have
received, both during their growing flate, and that of their
maturity. This quantify is fullicient to form their mufts with.
To dried grapes or raifins, water is applied, to fupply what
they have loft; and for the fame reafon it is rcquifite in regard
(o malt : but as grap s Aood in no need of ardficial fire,. to give
to their fermentative principles a due proportion, fo what they
produced by themfelves, or by cold water added to them, when
dry, is a futficient menftruum. But barleys, wanting the aili-
llance of a great heat to bring their parts to the neceflary pro-
portion, require alfo a limilar or rather a greater heat to refolve
them. Without that, the flour of the grain would come awayun-
dlffolved, and thus confiderably impoveriili the grill:. Should,
on the other hand, too great a heat be applied, an equal lofs would
be fuftained, from fome of the finer parts being coagulated or
difperfed. The proportioning therefore the heat of the water (o
the drynefs of the malt, more efpecially in refpeil to the flrength
of the drink, is of real neceflity.
It is certainly true, that we often fee liquors brewed from
very palemalts, prefcrve themselves for, and become fit to be
drank
flii Theory ^Brewing.
drank only in, a long time, and fome brown malts fo ma-
naged, as to give beers which foon will become Oale. The
firft of thefc cafes happens, when the extracts are made with
very hot water, and the la-ter, when the water is too cold
for the purpofe. Too much being extracted in one cafe, and
too little in the other, the time, which improves the firft drink,
muft necelTarily fpoil the latter. Our table indicates the
medium, both of the dryncfs of the malt and of the heat of
the extrads, and upon the Aippofition of an equality, always
defirable, between them, fliews the fpace of time, wliich the
liquor may keep, before it is full ripe.
"Well-brewed drinks fhouU not only prcferve themfelves found
their due fpace, in order to be meliorated by time; they fliould
likewife bc' fine and tranfparent. This may be eiteemed the
moft certain' fign of the artilVs fkill and care, as well as of
the falubrity of the drink, and is at once the fureft mark and
proof of a well-formed muft, and of a jjerfedt fermentation.
If then the rules for obtaining thefe ends can be deduced from
the foregoing principles, and experiments, we may flatter
Durfclves with pofTefTrng a theory, which will anfwcr our cx-
peilations in pradice.
According to the laws of nature difcovered by Sir Ifaac New-
ton, . tjie fpaces between the parts of cpake bodies are fill-
ed with mediums of different denfitics, and the difcort-
tinuity of parts, each in themfelves tranfparent, is the prrn-
cipal caufe of their o])aci(y. Salts in powder, or infuftd
in
99
ICO 'The Theory 0/ Brewing.
in an improper medium, will intercept the light; gums
make a muddy compound, when joined to fpirits; and oils, uii-
aflifted by falls, refufe to be incorporated with water. Alufls
therefore, wliich are not faponaceous, or In cither words, whofe
Gonlliluent parts are not capable vi being difToIvcd by water
into one homogeneous body, are not fit, either for a perfect
icrmentation or a pellucid drink.
When extrads are made with an Improper degree of heat,
that is, when either the malts are not futiiciently dried, or
the water is not powerful enough in heat, the oils of the
malt do not mix perfedly with the water, and the liquor mull
be deficient in tranfparency.
On the other hand, extra(fts made with waters fo hot, that
the confHtuent parts are removed beyond their fphere of at-
tradion, or the oils coagulated fo as to form a body fep:irate
from the water, mull needs be opake. Worts or mufis can
never, in either of thefe cafes, yield a tranfparent wine ;
whereas with a due or mean hea*^, between thefe two, they
mufl perfectly become fo; and as they recede from this me-
dium, they will be more or Icfs valuable.
Length of time, which improves beers and wines, often rec-
tifies our errors in this refped ; for the oils being, by vari-
ous frettings, more attenuated, and more intimately mixed,
the liquor is frequently rcllored, and becomes of itfclf pellucid.
Yet I never found this to fucceed, where the error on tlie
whole
72jj Thf. ORYf/ Brewing; loi
whole of the drynefs of the malt, and the heat of tlie exlradls,
exceeded the medium by 14 degrees.
Art has alfo, in feme meafnre, concurred with nature, to re-
medy this defed. When beers or wines have been fuffered to
ftand, till they are rather in an attrading than in a rcpellino"
flate, that i?,when their fermentations and frettings have had their
coiirfe ; then, if they do not become fpontaneoully fine, they may
be precipitated, by mixing with them a more ponderous fluid.
The floating particles, that occafioned the foulnefs, are, by
this means, made to fubfide to the bottom, and leave a lim-
pid wine : but the power of diflblved ifinglar<;, the ingredient
generally ufed for this purpofe, feldom takes effed, when the er-
or exceeds the medium, as before, by more than 14 degrees.
Other ingredients, Indeed, have been ufed, which carry this
power near i o degrees farther. It is not my province to deter-
mine, whether fuch be falutary : undoubtedly it would be bet-
ter if there were no occafion for them. Beyond thefe li-
mits, precipitation has no effed ; the liquor, which cannot be
fined thereby, if attempted, by increafing the quantity of the
precipitants, will be overpowered by the menflruum, and
injured in its tafte. How frequent this lafl: cafe of ckudinefs
is, would anfwer no purpofe in this place to enquire. The
ufe of doubtful ingredients, and fuch errors as have been men-
tioned, need no longer blemifh the art, when a conftant and
happy pradice will be both the effeft and the proof of a folid
and experimental theory.
O Beers
10 2 Hoe Theory ©/"Brewing.
Beers which become bright of themfelves, or by tim*
alone, as well as thofe precipitated either by dlffolved ifinglafs,
or by more powerful means, each poffefs their refpedlive pro-
perties in a certain latitude or number of degrees ; and as
thefe effeds arife wholly from the heats employed in drying
the malts, and in forming the extradts, die following table
will be of ufe to point out the limits, within which each drink
may be obtained.
X
A Ta^
7^e Theory (^/'Brewing.
103
A Table rhewing the tendency beers have to
become fine, when properly brewed from malts.
of different degrees of drynefs.
Degrees.
1 19 White
124 white, turning to a light
^ ^ I'become fpontaneoufly fine, or
120 light yellow inclining to > , i i *i r
y o J a ' where, as in pale ales, the ler-
mentations are periodically re-
Latitude of pale malts, which,
when propel ly brewed, foon
amber
134 amber
138 high amber or firft brown
143 brown
peated.
1 by precipitation thefe
3 bright in a fhort time.
grow
1 with precipitation thefe require
3 from 6 to 1 2 months to be brio-ht
J 48 middling brown
152 high brown
157 brown inclining to black 1^^^^ may be fined by precipi
162 high brown fpeckled with ^^.^^^ but never will be bright
black J
1 67 blackifh brown with black
fpccks
1 7 1 coffee color
176 black.
Thefe with ditTiculty can be
brewed,without the goods being
fet, but will by no means be-
j come bright, not even with the
j help of the ftrongell acid men_
J ftruum.
O2
Before
1 04 7/5^ Theory (?/*Brewtng.
Before this fcdion is concluded, permit n:e to draw one «
inference more from the foregoing experiment. As malts cliarr ^
and become black widi the fame degree or hea% a which alco-
hol boils, and as the effed the vapours riling from them had on
the perfons attending the experiment was a 11 ght inebriation, it
appears, that this fpirit was refident therein, and parked there-
from, when the heat was carried to ihe degree of ebullition.
Hence, if dry and moill: heats are equally capable of putting the
grain into a flate of prefervation, nalt ought not, when in
pofTclTion of the whole of Its proper :ies be made to indure
fuch moift heats as are equal to 1 75 ? Will not the extrads, by
fuch a degree, be, at leafl in part, deprived of the fpirit, its moll
prefervative principle ? and, as in fermentable mulls this fpirit
is not to appear diverted of the other principles of the grain,
ought it not to be intimately mixed with fuch as are necelTary,
in order to foften, Iheath and retain it the defired time ?
Thus does the fuccefs of this art depend on the inllrument
fo often mentioned, which, by inJicaLing the expaniions cauf-
cd by different heats, becomes a fure guide in our operations.
I fliall now clofe this account of mal', as I did that of fermen-
tation, by comparing with the principles here laid down the
dtfeds, which we, but too often, meet with in barley when
malted.
SECT. XII.
The Theory^t/'Brewing. 105
SECTION XII.
OBSERVATIONS on defease MALT S.
4^>^^k.^'^ the preceding enquiry, fomc of the defeds of malts
'i I ^ have been occafionally mentioned : but as a perfeft
^^^ i. knowledge of the grain, efpecially when it has un-
dergone this procefs, is a matter of nofmall concern to the brew-
er, I fhall now bring fuch defeds into diltind view, both to
compare them with the foregoing principles, and that the know-
ledge of them may be more at hand, on every occafion, when
wanted.
Every different degree of heat ading on bodies caufes a diffe-
rent effed : and this varies alfo, as fuch heat is more or lefs hafli-
ly applied. The growth of vegetables is in general fubmitted to
thefe laws ; but yet I conceive there is fome difference between
germination and vegetation, which I beg leave to point out.
The former feems to be the ad caufed by heat and moillure,
while the plume or acrofpire is ftill enveloped within the te-
guments of the parent corn, and it is moft perfedly perform-
ed by the gcntleft adion, and coafequently by the leall: heat,
that is capable of moving the different principles in their due
order. Vegetation, again, is that ad which takes place, when
the plant ifllies forth, and, being rendered Wronger by the
impreiTions of the air, becom.es capable of refifling its in-
clemencies, or the warmth of the fun-Hiine. Germination is the
only ad neceffary for malting, the intention being folely to
put
jo6 'Jthe Theory of Brewing.
put in motion the principles of the grain, and not to pufh up
the embryo to a plant. Now, as this begins in barley at the
degree where the water firfl becomes fluid, or nearly fo,
the cold feafon, when the thermometer fhcws from about 32
to 40 degrees, would feem the mofl: proper for this purpofe.
How fir its latitude may with propriety be extended, experi-
ence alone can determine. Adaltfters continue to work fo long-
as they think the leafon permits, and leave off generally in
may, when the heat of the Avater extends at a medium from 50
to ^^ degrees. But the nearer they come to this medium, widi
tlie greater difadvantage mufl: they malt : :.s, by fuch warmth,
the vefTels of the corn are much diftended, the motion of
the fluids violent, and the finer pans too apt to fly off.
Thus the coarfer oils, gaining admittance, the glandular
parts become filled with an impure and left delicate ful-
phur, which, inrtead of a fwcet, incl'nss to a bitter, tafle. This
is fo manifefl:, and fo univerfally experienced, that in ge-
neral brewers carefully avoid purchafing what is termed A?/-
tcr-made malts.
Malt, which has not had a fuflicient time to flioot, fo that
its plume may have reached to the extent of tl:e inward fkin
of the barley, remains overburthened with too large a quan-
tity of earth and oils, which otherwife would have been ex-
jjended in the acrofpire and radical vefTels. All thofe parts
of the corn, which have not been feparated, and put in a
motion by the a6t of germination, will, when laid on the
kiln to dry, harden and glutinize ; no greater part thereof will
be
Hie T H E o R y o/" B R E w I N G. 107
be foluble in water, then fo far as the ftem or fpire of the
barley rifes to, or very little farther, and as much as is want-
ing thereof, will be loft to the flrength of the drink.
When malts are fuffcred to grow too much, or until the
fpire is fhot through the fkin of the barley, ^vhich indeed is
not often the cafe, though all that is left be malt, that is con-
taining falts diffoluble In water, yet as too large a portion
of oils has been expended out of the grain , fuch malts
cannot be fit to brew drinks for long keeping. There is be-
lides a real lofs of the fubftance of the corn occafioned by
its being overgrown.
Malts, which have been but juft enough grown, and have
been duly worked upon the floors, if not fufficiently dried on
the kiln, even though the fire be excited to a proper heat, re-
tain many watery parts. The corn, when laid together, will
be apt to germinate afrefh, perhaps fo to heat as to take fire,
and Ihould it continue long in this ftate, muft at leaft grow
' mouldy, and have but an ill flavor.
Malts well grown, and \vorked as before, but over dried
though with a proper degree of heat, will become of fo te-
nacious a nature, as to require a long time, before they can
admit of the outward imprefllons of the air to relax or mel-
low them, that is, before they be fit to be brewed widi all
the advantages they otherwife would ha\e.
Mdlt
I o 8 'The Theory <?/" B r e vv i n g.
Malts dried on a kiln not futliciently heated mull require
proportionably a longer time to receive the proper efFeft of
the fire ; the want of which will bring them in the fame ftate as
malts not thoroughly dried.
If too quick or fierce a fire be employed, inflead of
gently evaporating the watery parts of the corn, it terri-
fies the outward fkin , divides it from the body of the
grain, and fo rarefies the inclofed air as to buril: the veffels.
Such are called blown malts, and, by the internal expanfion,
occupy a larger fpacc than they ought. If fuch a fire be
continued, it even vitrifies, or at leaft changes into a britde
fubflance, fome parts of the grain, from whence the malts are
faid to he glajfy. Thofe, which, from their being thus harden-
ed and rendered of a fleely nature, will not diflblve, or but
in a fmall proportion, are very troublefome and dangerous in
brewing, as they frequently occafion a total want of extradion,
which is termed, fetting the grijl.
Malts, juft, or but lately, taken from the kiln, remain warm
for a confiderable time. Until they become equally cool with
the furrounding air, they cannot be faid to be mellow, or in
a fit ftate to be brewed j for as their parts will be harfh and
britde, the whole of their fubftance cannot be refolved, and
the proper h.eat of the water, whicli fhould be applied to them
for that purpofe, is therefore more diflScult to be alcertained.
The
The Theory o/* Brewing. 109
The pradice of thofe maltfters, who fprinkle water on malts
newly removed from the kiln, to make them appear as having
been made a proper fpace of time, or, as they term it, to plump
them, is a deceit which ought to be difcouraged. By this prafticc,
the circumftance of the heat, and harfhnefs of the malt, is only
externally and in appearance removed, and the purchafer grofly
impofed on. The grain, by being thus heated, occupies a
greater volume, and if not fpeedily ufed, foon grows mouldy,
heats, and is greatly damaged.
The dired contrary is the cafe of high dried malts, whicli
have been made a long time : the dampnefs of the air has re-
laxed them, and fo much moiflure has infinuated itfelf into the
grain, that fome doubt muft arlfe how much hotter the mafli
fhould, for this reafon, be. Yet fuppofing no diflemper, fuch
as being mouldy, heated, or damaged by vermin, is obferved,
malts, in this cafe, may more certainly be helped in brewing,
than thofe jufl: abovementioned.
From what has been faid, it appears, how neceffary it is
to procure malts, which have been wetted and germinated
to their true pitch, dried by a heat ralfcd to a moderate,
yet true, degree, fo that the moiflure of the corn be duly
evaporated, then cured in a manner to preferve themfelves a
due time, without being blown, vitrified, or burnt bv too
hot or hafty fires. I need not f y how eafy it is !o regu-
kte this procefs in the ciftern, on tlie tioors, and on the kiln,
>\'hcn the maltller ufes no r.;:ifce to fave his excife. E';t
P wilk
no The Theory 0/ Brewing.
wuh wliat certainty and eafe the whole might be carried
on by the help of the thermometer, I leave fuch to deter-
inii"ie, who are modeft enough to think, that the art may be
brought to more accurate rules than thofe of the bare report
"* of our unaffifted fenfes. As fuch rules may eafily be de-
duced from the principles here laid down , I fhall not be
more particular in fhewing their application, that not being
my immediate purpofe, nor my bufmefs as a brewer. I have
neither leifure, nor the conveniency of a malt-houfe, to make
experiments of this fort ; yet I may with truth fay, that fuch
as would not be difappointed in their brewing, muft take
care not to be deceived in their malts. This, however, be-
ing but too frequently the cafe, it is undoubtedly ufeful to be
aware of their faults, and know how to corred them. If
they are treated in the fame manner as if they were perfed:,
the well-malted parts alone will be digefted. If they be too
Hack dried, they may be correfted by an addition of heat,
and if overdried, or injured by fire, they may be proporti-
onably helped. By applying the thermometer to the firft
cxtrad, the brewer will, to a fufficient degree of exadnefs,
be informed of the defedls he can mend, and hardly be
ever at a lofs for the propereft means he can fafely em-
])loy.
I flatter myfelf, fome fatisfadlion muft arife from feeing both
what is perfed , and what is defedive in the principal
proceffes of this art, agreeing fo well with its theory, and
af-
The Theory 0/ Brewing. m
affording fo many proofs of its certainty ; and though there be
feveral incidents, (as yet unmentioned,) infeparable ffom the
pradice, fuch will only ferve to confirm this truth, that, as
our talk is to imitate nature, it is our duty to inform our-
fclves of, and induflrioufly to be ftead^ to, her laws.
T 2 Part
- i-
■<^<^4^^4^4^4-4-4^^i^'^^'¥4^'¥4-^4^'^^^^4f^-^'¥^'^4^-i^4^
Part 11.
THE
PRACTICE
O F
BREWING.
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PART II.
THE
PRACTICE
O F
BREWING.
»at-:i8»EFORE I enter upon the pradlcal, and indeed
Y B T "^° important, part of this work, it will, I think,
^..|_ ..yJ^ not be improper to give a diftinfl:, though ge-
mmt"^tmm n^j-al, view of the different parts it is to confift of.
Thus is a general map prefixed before any book of geography,
to point out the countries defcribed in it, and their connexion
one with another.
To extract from malt a liquor, which, by the help of fer-
mentation, may acquire the properties of wines, is the general
objeft of the brewer, and the rules of that art are the fubjed
©f thefe ilieets.
An
1 1 6 llje Practice c/ Brewing,
An art truly very fimple, if, according to vulgar opinion,
it conlifled in nothing elfe than applying warm-water to malt,
mafhing thefe together, multiplying the taps at difcretion,
boiling the extrads with a few hops, fufFering the liquor to cool,
adding yeafl: to make it ferment, and trulliing to time, cellars,
and noilrums, for its tafte, brightnefs and prefervation !
This might be fufficicnt , were the place and conftituti-
on of the air always the fame, the materials and vefTels em-
ployed intirely fimilar, and laftly the malt drinks intended for
the fame ufe and time ; but, as every one of thefe particulars is
liable to variations, the rules, by which the artill: is to govern
himfelf, would only ferve to deceive him, if he applied them
indifcriminately, 'or trufted to Indefinite figns, and infuffici-
ent maxims, in his deviation from them.
A more certain foundation has been laid down in our firft
part, and the principles there ellabliflied will, it is hoped, in
all cafes, anfwer our ends, provided we make ufe of the
proper means to fettle their application. In order to eife6t
this, nothing feems more proper than to follow, as much as
pofTible, that plan, which the rational brewer would, in every
particular circumftance, flsetch to himfelf,' before he proceeded
to bufinefs. His firft attention ought to be direded not only
to the adual heat of the weather, but alfb to that which may
be expedcd in the feafon of the year he is in. The grinding
of his malt muft be his next objed, and as the difference of
the drinks greatly depends upon that of the extrads, lie can
but
TIjC PRACTICE(7/'BREWrNG. J\^
but chiife to have diftlndl jdeas of what may be expefled
from each of them. Hops, which are added as a preferva-
tlve to the extrads, become too important apart of them, to
be employed without a fufficient knowledge of their power.
The ftrength of our malt liquors depending principally on their
quantity or lengths, it is necefTary to afcertain the heights in
the copper, which anfwer to thefe lengths. The differences
in the boiling, with regard to different drinks or feafons,
the lols of water by evaporation, the proper divifion of
it according to the different degrees of heat to be given, the
means to afcertain thefe degrees by determinihg what quantity
of cold water is to be added to that, which is at the point
of ebullition, as well as to a certain volume of grift, come
afterwards under the confideration of the artill:. He will next
employ himfelf in afcertaining the manner and time of mafh-
ing, and as many unexpeded incidents may have produced
fome fmall variations between the adual and the calculated
heat of his worts, it will be incumbent upon him to make
a proper c{l;imation and allowance for them. To difpofe thefe
worts in fuch forms and depths, as may render the influence
of the ambient air the eafiefl and moll: efficacious ujxjn them,
and then, by the addition of yeaff, to fupply the part of that
internal and moft powerful agent, which was loft in boiling,
are the next requilites. The fermentation, which follows,
and which the brewer retards or forwards according to Im
intentions, compleats the whole of his procefs, and it muft
be an additional fatisfadion to him, if, upon comparing his
operations with thofe of the moft approved pradtitioners in
Q^ his
xi8 Hz Practice o/Brewing.
his art, he finds himfelf able to account for thofe llgns
and eftablillied cuftoms, which before were loofely defcribed,
authoratively dJ6tated, and never fufficiently determined or
explained. An obje6t of ftill greater importance to him, is to
know the proper ftock of beer he ought to keep, in order
to have at all times a fufficient quantity fit for ufc. As pre-
cipitation is requifite in certain cafes, the common methods for
cffeding it fliould be known, and likewife the means praftifed
among coopers to corredt the real or imagined errors of the
brewer, and to render his drinks agreeable to the palate of
the confumers. This will naturally, and laftly, lead him to
confider what true tafle is, and by employing the means, by
which' it may fafely be obtained and improved, he will have
done all what was in his power, to anfwer his cuftomer's expec-
tation, and to fecurc his fuccefs.
This arrangement, which appears the moft fimple. Is that,
which the reader will find obferved in the following fedions.
The proper illuftrations of tables and examples have not been
omitted, and from the complete plans for brewing, under two
forms of the moft dillimilar kind, which have been propofed,
it will be found that the rules are adapted to all circumfbances,
and applicable to every purpofe.
If, notwithfhanding my endeavours, fome things fliould ap-
pear out of their places, and fome others in more than one,
if redundancies, chiefly occafioned by the natural temptation
of accounting for particular appearances, have not always been
avoid-
Tie Vractic2 of Brewing, 119
avoided, if, laftly , inaccuracies fhould now and then have efcap-
cd mc, let it be remembered, (by the good-natnred it certain-
ly will,) that, in new and intricate fubjeds, digrcffions and
repetitions are in feme meafure allowable, that an ovcrful-
nefs is preferable to an affe<Sed and too often obfcure bre-
vity, and laftly, that the improvement of the art, rather than
the talent of writing, mull be the brewer's merit, and was
my only aim.
l'!fl
Q^i SECTION
J 20 ^^'^ Practice of B r z w i h q»
SECTION I.
i Of the heat of the air^ as it relates to the praSiical part of
brewing.
)8i.'>»»"f -i?*.;©' N and about the city of London, the greateft cold,
& J2>.~'.o: 5) that has been obferved, is i6 degrees, and the
A )a.— .»; h greateft heat has made the thermometer rife to 87.
}3>'^-t-i6f3J^ Within thefe Umits are comprehended all the fer-
mentable degrees, and confequently thofe necefTary for carrj'lng
on the proceis of brewing. If the lowell: degree proper for fer-
mentation be 40, and the higheft 80, the medium of thefe two
would, at firft fight, appear to be the fitteft for this pe?
cullar purpofe. The internal motion, neceflary to bring on
fermentation, excites a heat fuperior to the original ftate of
the muft by i o degrees. Hence if 60 degrees be the high-
eft eligible heat a fermenting muft fhould arife to, 50 fhould
be the higheft for a wort to be let down at to ferment. This
can only be obtained, when the degree of heat in the air is
equal thereto, and it denotes the higheft natural heat for beers
,and ales to be properly fermented. With regard to the other
extreme or the lowefl heat, however cold the air may be, as
the worts, which fcMm both beers and ales, gain by boiling, a
degree greatly fuperior to any degree allowed of in fermentati-
on, it is conllantly in the artili's power to adapt his worts to
' - a pioper flate. The brewing feafon, then, may juftly be ef-
Jcemed all that part of the yp^r^ in which the medium heat
cf
I^e Practiceo/*Brewing. iji
of the day is at, or below, 50 degrees, that is in our climate,
from the beginning of Odober to tlie middle of Alay, or 32
weeks.
As the cxtraftions arc made by heats far fupcrior to any natu-
ral ones, though the adual temperature of the air neither adds to,
or diminifhcsfrom, their ftrength, yet it is to be known for the
following reafon. The proper heat is given to the mafh, by means
of cold added to boiling water, and cold water generally is of no
other heat than that of the air itfelf. Indeed, when the cold is
fo intenfe, as to occafion a froft, and to change water Into Ice,
that which is then ufed for brewing, being moftly drawn from
deep wells or places, where froft never takes place, may be
«fteemedat35 degrees, and this will be fufficicntly cxadl.
The following table ihews the temperature of the air for every
feafonin the year, and confirms what I have juft now laid con-
cerning tlie time proper for brewing, and the adual heat of
the water. It was djeduced from many years obfcryations made
with very accurate inftruments, at 8 o'clock in the morning, tlic
time iii which the heat^ is fuppofed to be the medium of that
of the whole day. ^^ '^^^ \ '
t
YlM
<- c p . , ' • t r r
lO Vie) oz :i]
01
12 2 'The Practice <?/* B r e w i n g.
ic © a .0: © ia. .0; ss s*. js « js :o: »: »: a :o: o: ss; &; »; a a s>: a « a a a a »: a &: iSE
A Table, fhewmg the medium- heat, for every fea-
fon of the year, in and about London^ deduced
from obfervations made fpom iJS.'X to 1759, ^^
eight o* clock each morning,, . .
Degrees.
January i
to . . . 15
(36' 38
^34' 97
. i 3i3
jiuaryr -j
^38'
to . i 3
February r
to
July . . rj
(60'
to . . I ? <
to
Degrees*
52
29
II
to . . 28
March i
C60'
(58^ +8
to . . 3 1 J
Septem. 1
r - ■ -. 3
Auguft I
to
99
liinoojjns
'7:
n
ill-It 1 ■>
|37'
?39'7» "V "" ^*'
••'•■' to. . 31 3 ( v:'i;rn i -jjt ! to . . 30 J
.April . lyiLoi-y. ^vixr: P^^'iober ^>- vf.yr;,
C46' 04. •■;• {46' T%
1 J t© . . 7 1 J
to . , 30
May . I
to . . 15
{49' 05
(53' 67
to . . 313
June . 1 1
to . . 15 J
J59' »4
t© . . 3
Novem. I
'5
to . . 30
ivem- I J
(39*
. 3o>
(38'
(37'
to
f o . . 3
Decern, i
to
to
26
40
6k
54^
r^
. The P R A C T I C-E ^ B R E VV I N .G, 12 3
To afcertain the authority of this table, and to make it ufe-
ful to fcveral purpofes, I have carried to decimals the mean
numbers refliking from my obfervations. But fuch an exa^lnefs
has been found, in the pradtice of brewing, to be more trou'
blefomc than neceflar)'. I have therefore conftrudted another
table fimilar to the former, but where the fradlions are omitted,
and the whole numbers carried on from five to five. The heat,
in the latter end of October and beginning of November, has
\K&r\ fet 4own .r^the,r higher than it really; is ; ^s,. at; this time
of the year, the hops fit to brew with are old and weak, and
I could nqt devife any means more eafy to allow for their want
offtrength. " ^A
s
V
. - \
L^ . . A Table,
1 24 Thi Practice <?/ Brewing.
A Table, fhewing the medium- heat of the air, in
and about London^ for every feafon of the year,
applicable to pradiice.
January i
Degrees.
to
luary i ^
to . . 3
February i
to . . 14
to . . 28
March i
to . . 15
25
35
35
40
to . . 3
April
to
nl I ^
• • liJ
to . . 30*
May . I \
to . . 15^
to . . 3 1 i
June . I -i
to . . 15 <
to . . ^oi
40
40
45
45
50
55
55
60
- Degree*.
July. , I
•60
juiy . » ty
r
to . . 15 <
. . 155
V
^.60
to . . 31'
Auguft I J 3,.
to
t© . . 3]
Septem. i
)tern. i ^
.« . . is\
to . . 30^
ilober I y
.5
• • *5S
60
55
Odober i
'.50
to . . 15
'50
to . . 31 J
Novem. i -p
C45
to . . 15^
MO
to . . 30 J
Decern, i ■«
(40
to . . 15 j
to
i35
But
*lthe Practice c/"Bre WING. 125
As nothing is fo inconftant as the weather, we are not to
be furprized Vv^hcn it deviates from the progreiTion fpecificd
in the table; The flowing water ufed in the brewery, at the
coldeft feafons, we have fixed at 35 degrees, and the higheft
heat to carry on the procefs for beers brewed for long keep-
ing at 50". The length proper to be drawn, or the quan-
tity of beer to be made from each quarter of malt being
fixed, the brewer, at any time, has it in his power to make
calculations for brewings, at 35, at 40, at 45, at k^o, and even
at any degree of heat whatever, fo as never to be unprovid-
ed againft any feafon, which may happen. VVaier, being a
body more denfe than air, requires fome time to receive the
impreffions either of heat or cold, for which reafon the me-
dium heat of the fhade of the preceding day will moft con-
veniently govern this part of the procefs, unlefs fome very
extraordinary change fhould happen in the atmofphere. This
muft make the bufinefs of the arti-ft, in this refpccft, very
cafy, for he has^ only to corred the little changes that occafio-
nal incidents give rife to, and the calculations will anfwer all
his purpofes fo long as the lengths of beer to be brewed from
the fame quantity of malt remain unaltered, or that the
coppers he employs are the fame.
The beft method, to know the true heat of cold water, would
be to keep a very accurate and diftinft thermometer, in the
liquor back, but as this, in every place, is not to be expeded,
and inaccuracies muft arife from a change in the air, to pre-
vent their confequences in pradice, we muft have recourfe to
R experience*
1 26 Thg Practice ©/"Brewing.
experience. This has taught us that a difference of 8 degrees,
between the adtual heat of the waterjand that from, which the
brewing was computcd,will produce in the firfl extrad, a differ-
ence of 4 degrees.
Moff brewers coppers, though they vary in their dimenfi-
ons, are generally made in proportions nearly uniform ; the ef-
feft of one inch of cold water more or lefs will therefore near-
ly anfwer alike, that is, it will alter the heat of the tap by 4
degrees. But this will only hold good in fuch cafts, where
the water is in the fame proportion to the volume of the grift.
In brewing brown beers or porter, three worts are generally
made, and theextrads therefore muft be of different lengths from
what they are in beers brewed at two worts only. In this cafe, the
water of the firft extrad, neccffary to wet all the malt, being
more in quantity than it otherwife would be, occafions the
fecond to be proportionably lefs ; and as It is of great confc-
quence, if the iirft tap doth not anfwer to its proper degree,
that the fecond fhould be brought to fuch a heat, as to make
up the medium of the firft and fecond extrads, the fecond or
piece liquor, by reafon of its fhortnefs, is more conveniently
and exadly tempered in the little copper ; and one inch cool-
ing is then found, both by calculation and experience, to oc-
calion a difference of one degree of heat.
'O
One of the principal attentions, in forming beers and ales
of any fort whatever, is that they may come to their moft per-
fed ffate, at the time they arc intended to be ufcd. Com-
moa
7l:ie P R A C T I C E <7^ B R E W I N G. 12-7
mon fmall beer requires from one to four weeks, and as
it is impoffible to prejudge the accidental variations, as to heat
and cold, that may happen in any one feafon of the year, it
is rational to a6t up to what experience has fhewn is to be ex-
pe6led, and to mix fuch quantity of cold water with that, which
is made to come to ebullition, as to bring the extrad to the
degree fixed for each particular feafon, let the heat, at the timp
-of brewing, vary therefrom, in any degree whatever.
In treating on the fubjed of air in the former part of this
work, I obferved the effed it had in penetrating the parts of
the malt, or in the technical terpi ufed by bre;wers, in flacking
them. If this is the cafe, when the grain is entire ar\d whole,
it is more fo when ground, and experience teaches us, that,
when malt has been about 24 hours from the mill, the dampnefs
it has imbibed is equal to half an inch more of cold water ap-
plied to the firfl liquor, and produces therefore a diminution
of 4 degrees in the heat *.
An effed, fomewhat refembling to this. Is caufed by the im-
preflion of the air on the iitenfils of a brewhoufe, which are
not daily ufcd ; the heat received from a foregoing procefs has
expanded their pores, and rendered them more fufceptible of
cold and moiflure. From this circumftance, the heat of the firft
mafh, will be affedcd in a proportion equal to half an inch tool-
ing, or in the fpace of 24 hours, to 4 degrees of heat.
* I chofe this manner of exprefling the moft eafy for the diredion of
the quantity of moiflure received in the flrft extrad.
.jrqu^jd;^ malt from the air, as it is
R 2 The
12 8 ^he Practice <?/* B r e w i n g.
The time of the day, in which this firft extrad is made,
becomes anotlier confideration ; for as 8 o'clock in the morn-
. ing is the time of the medium heat in the whole 24 hours, the
other hours will give different proportions. When a firil mafh
is made about 4 o'clock in the morning, the following table
fhews the difference between the heat at 4 and at 8 ; tha^
of the o;her hours, in the like cafe, may be learned by obferva-
tion. It has been obferved, that, in the cold months, from the
fun's power being lefs, the heat of the day and night are more
uniform, and alfo that the coldeft part of the 24 hours is about
half an hour, or an hour before fun-rifing. I have judged it
convenient, to place, in the fame table, the feveral incidents af-
feding the firft extrad.
k^ 5c~o0»„J kv
X
I NCI-
The Practice o/" Brewing.
129
se-ss^^
Incidents occafioned
of the firfl: extradV, to
ly, when fmall beer is
water is then greateft,
tible of its imprefTions.
by the air afFeding the heat
be noticed more particular-
brewed, as the quantity of
and the madi more fufcep-
Morning at 4
January o
February o
March 2
April
May
June ^
July
Auguft —
September -
Oaober-
November-
December-
4
6
8
10
-8
-6
hd
O
s
rj
l-l
bO
C
s
ID
Utenfils, for want of being
ufed, in 24 hours loofe 4
degrees of heat , equal to
half an inch of cold water.
Malt, which has been ground
24 hours, imbibes moifturc
equivalent to half an inch,
which lefiens the heat by
4 degrees.
The difference between the
adtual heat of the air, and
that naturally expected is
to be allowed in proporti-
on of 8 degrees to one inch.
Malts, from having been
long kept, or old, become
confiderably flacked.
Before
1 30 The Practice ^Brewino.
Before we quit this fubjed, it may not be improper to
oblerve^ that, in the hotteft feafon, and in the hottefl part of
the day, the difference between the heat of the air in the
fliade, and that in the fun's beams, is about 1 6 degrees, and
valfo that the cellars or repofitories for beers are in winter ge-
nerally hotter by ten degrees, than the external air, and in
fummer colder by five.
■^0. 0. o:>
SECTION
Use Practice ^/"Brewing. x-j
SECTION II.
0/ G R I N D I N G.
)a:i»^X»'ALT mufl be ground, in order to facilitate the aftion
5 M £ of the water on the grain, which otherwife would
)a>^^«( be obftraded by the outward fkins. Every corn fliould
be cut for this purpofe, but not reduced to a flower or meal, for,
in this laft ftate, the grift would not be cafily penetrable. It is
therefore fuflicient that every grain be divided into two or three
jparts, nor can there be any neceiTity for varying tliis, in one
fort of drink more than in another. The intention of grind-
ing is the fame, in every brewing, and the tranfparency of the
liquor, mentioned by fome people on this occafion, depends,
by no means, on the cut of the corn. .
It has been a queflion, whether the motion of the mill did
not communicate fome heat to the malt; but, if this fliould be the
cafe, it can be but in a very fmall degree j and that mull again
be loft by fhooting the grain out of the facks, or uncafing
the grift into the malh ton.
We have before obferved, that malt, by being ground and
cxpofed for fome time to the air, more readily imbibes moifturc
than when whole, and that the dampnefs, thus abforbed by the
grain, being in reality fo much cold water, a grift, that has been
long frround, is capable of being impreflcd with hotter wa-
ters than otherwife it would require. la country places, where
tlic
132 lie Practice (j/' Brewing.
the people are igncrant, that a certain heat is neceflary to form a
proper extrad with,and where, inftead of the determinate degree,
boiling water is indifferently applied, the effedts of this error
are in fomc meafure prevented, by grinding the malts a confi-
de rable time, as a month or fix weeks before the brewing. This
method, from the inconftant flate of the air, muft be more Un-
certain than any other, and few or no arguments are necefiary
to explode it. The truth is, the merit of country ales fo often
mentioned, proceeds from the people not being obliged to tap
their drinic, but when it is in the fitteft ftate for ufe. Thus does
time not only corredl the errors of the operators, but alfo give
them, in the eyes of the ignorant, the credit of an extraor-
dinary knowledge and unmerited ability.
SECTION
^e Practice c/ Brewing. 1 33
SECTION iir.
Of EXTRACTION.
H^Ji^^^K^XTRACTION is a folution of part, or the. whole,
^ E fc of a body, made by means of a menflru-im. In
;5 ^j,,^^ 1 brewing, it is chiefly the Tnealy part of the grain that
is required to be refolved 3 and fire and water combined are
fufficient to perform this ad. Water properly is the receptacle
of the parts diffolved, and fire the power, which conveys into
the vehicle more or lefs of thefe parts.
When all the parts neceffary to form a vinous liquor are not
employed, or when more than are required for this purpofe
are extrafted, the liquors muft vary in their conitituent parts,
and confequently be different in their efFcds. This diflference
arlfes either from heat alone, or from the manner of applying
it ; and the properties of beers and ales, will admit of as many
varieties as may be fuppofed in the quantity of the heat, and in
its application. But as the uleful differences are alone necef-
fary to the brewer, they may all be reduced to the four follow-
ing modes of extraclion.
Firft, that which is moft perfect, and for which the malt is
chofen of fuch drynefs, and the extrads made with fuch heats,
as to give the beer an opportunity to be improved by time, and
to become of itfelf fine and tranfparent.
S Secondly,
124- ^T/S^ PRACTrCE<?/'BREWING.
Secondly, that, which occafions the liquor to become tran-
fparent, but, for want of a fufficiency of fire, does not allow
it the advantages, which age procures to the firft.
Thirdly, that, which, in order to obtain every advantage of
time, produces fuch extrads, as cannot become pellucid of
themfelves, but do require precipitation.
Fourthly, that, which, by conveying a greater heat to the
firll: extract, than is done in any of the preceding cafes, gives
to the liquors the fweet and foft tafte of wines formed from
grapes ripened by the hotteft fun.
Thefe four modes of refolviag the grain, being the funda-
rnental principles, on which almoft every fpecies of drink is
brewed, I muft be allowed to treat of them feparately, but
firft will fet down a few general principles applicable to all.
As grapes, in their original ftate, are acid, from having
been formed under the lower degrees of heat, the firfl mafli
or extrad, in any kind of liquor, muft be the leaft in heat of
the whole brewing : and as the acids of the grapes become fac-
charine by the encreafed power of the fun, the laft mafh of
every brewing mufl be fo far raifed by heat, as to extradt a
Hiflicient quantity of oils, to fmooth over the acids produced in
the firft extract, and caufe the wort to become fweet. Thcfe
oils, raifed in different proportions, conftitute what, in the
muft or wort, may be called the degrees ofjaponaceoiifnefs.
In
iToe Practice <?/ Brewing. 13(1
In the table * fliewing the different effefls produced in the
grain by the different degrees of heat, the numbers, with re-
fpe<S to worts, exprefs, not only the degrees of drynefs in the
malt, but alfo thofe of heat in the extradling liquor to the me-
dium of which the degree of power in the hops is likewife to
be added. The heat of the firil extrading water ought to be,
at leaft equal, if not fuperior, to the heat which dried the
grain, to give it a fufficient power to open it, and not let fall
any of its parts undifTolvcd.
Fermentation, cither in grape or barley wines, is kept back
or accelerated, in proportion to the quantity of oils the muft
contains, and thefe are raifed by heat alone. Nature points
out, in what part of the procefs of brewing this encreafed heat
lliould be placed, as thofe wines preferve themfelves longeft,
whofe grapes, every other circumflance being the fame, are
germinated under a hotter fun ; it is therefore in the drying
of the malts, and in the lirfl part of the procefs, that the heat
fliould be raifed.
A mufl or wort, to be perfed, fhould be formed fo, as that
its faponaceous properties keep an even pace with the fermen-
table ones. The properties of a true fapo mufl then, as has
before been faid, be eflimated by the fame fcale as the degrees
of fermentation, although their refpedive number be different.
Thofe of faponaceoufnefs are comprehended between the de-
gree of heat, by which germinated barley is firft changed into
* Part I. Se£l. XI. page 103.
S 2 malt,
136 Jlje Practice (?/ Brewing.
malt, and the laft degree of drynefs, in wlilch the malt pre-
ferves the whole of its conftituent parts. The firil of thefe
degrees is 119, and the lall, by which the grain firft begins
to charr, 157. The difference is 3 8 *, which number, be-
ing dedudled from the higheft degree of heat applied to malt for
any intended purpofe, the remainder will be the loweft. The
cxtrads of all beers and ales, intended to become of themfelves
tranfparent, muft be formed on calculations, comprehending
all the faponaceous or 38 degrees, and fince perfect opacity is
the effed of the total want of faponaceoufnefs, the intermedi-
ate ftates may be exprefled by the following table.
* It might be fuppofed, that the
real number of the faponaceous degrees
of malt extends from 119 to 176, when
it appears quite black and charred.
But, malt, by fo much as it turns to
blaclcnef^, becomes defe(51ive, and Im-
proper for the true vegetable fapo fit
for fermentation^ and therefore we are
to flop, where that change firft takes
place, viz. at 157.
;«
A Table
The Practice 0/ Brewing. 137
IS :<s* :« 'o: & 'n. :c* '&. :<a © fii ie "o; © a s o; :« 'si :c; s « & 0. ;o: e :o: o; o: ie a :<s '&. o.
A Table, flievving the effedls of the feveral fapo-
naceous degrees.
38 Degrees fpontancoully bright.
33 by precipitation, bright from 6 to 9 months.
28 by j)recipitation, fine from 12 to 18 months.
24 by precipitation, fine in 24 months.
1 9 • -J cloudy
I A _^— j
> Different degrees of cloudinefs.
5 J
. o opakc.
■ Whenever opacity takes place, even in fo fmali a propor-
tion as 3 2 degrees, precipitation mull: be ufed. When at 19.
the powers of tranfparency and opacity being equal , an effed:
cxpreiTive of both will enfiie, and a color properly belonging
to neither be obferved. The drinks will, in one light, appear
tranfparcnt, and in another, opake; and this feems to be the
true charadler of cloudy beers. '
Though beers and ales are divided into uftrong and fmall.
this divifion regards only the proportion of the vehicle, and
not that of the conftituent parts. The fame means, as to the heat
of the extracts, muft be employed, to form fmall beers, capable
of preferving themfelves found for lome time, as are ufed to make
ftrong and durable drinks : for though a fmall liquor poffefies
jnore aqueous parts, the oils and falts of the malt are only more
diluted.
138 7^^ Practice 0/ Brewing.
diluted, but not altered in their proportions, and this caufes but
a very fmall difference in the duration of the liquor.
It now remains to apply thefe rules, deduced from the theory,
to the feveral forts of malt liquors, which anfwer to the four
modes of extradion juft before laid down.
The firfl and moft perfedt is, when the malt is chofen of
fuch drynefs, and the extracts made with fuch heats, as give
the beers an opportunity of being improved by time, and of
becoming fpontaneoufly bright and tranfparent. Under this
head, may be comprehended all pale keeping Jlrongy and all
pale keeping fmall beers.
From its name, regard mnft be had to the color of the
malt, and fuch only ufed, as is dried the leaft, or by 119 de-
^ grees of heat.
The hops * fTiould lilcewife be pale, and their quantify
. . nfed In proportion to the time the drink is intended to be kept j
fuppofe in this cafe it is 10 months, lolb of fine hops will be
required.
The higheft degree of heat, or rather the medium of the
highefl: drynefs in malt, with the mean heat of the feveral cx-
tradions to admit of fpontaneous pellucidity, we have feen ia
the foregoing table '(page 103) to be 138 degrees, and this me-
♦ Though the confideration of hops ticipatine: here fome parts of it. In all
is the particular fubjedl of the next complicated fubjcJls, this muft nccef-
ffdlion, I am under a neceility of an- tuily be the cafe.
dium
The Practice^Brewing. 139
dium is chofen as it anfwers not only to the intent of long keep-
ing, but of brightnefs alio : and for this reafon the whole num-
ber of faponaceous degrees mufl be employed in the calcu-
lation.
ji*..jvK..^.,Ji*,..^..js*...y*...^»..yt..^...^.„y^..y».,.y»..^^ **»,.>V.>V.,)?#. *•# «m »•• V# v» •■« *V v* *'» *, JL
V V V V V ** *i* *? ';* #^"<j»"*»" M '«■•*•"*»••>[** *• *^» «;* '* ** *A •Vj*''W'**-»'**"ic**M*'»« v^*' v.^-'JiJ-JJ*
Method of d.tcrminwg the malt's drynefs, the heat of the Jirjl and
laft extra^s, and the 'value in degrees of the quantity cj hops
to be u fed, J or breiving -pale Jlrong or pale fmall beers, intended
to be kept about ten months, before tbr-y are ufcd.
»
119 degrees, drynefs of the malt
I jy ^the higheft medium of the extracting heats, becaufe, with
[the drynefs of the malt, it makes a mean anfvverable, to
the intent of duration and tranfparency, or i -5S degrees.
276
1 3 S as abovementloned
157 cfrom above, is the mean of the extrads, as would occa-
fion pellucidity to be in its lowefl: degree, but the preferv a-
tive quality in the higheft, and therefore thegreateft heat,
the firft extract could bear for this purpofe
3S the whole number of faponaceous degrees to be deducted
1 19 this then the loweft faponaceous extract
-157 this the higheft fa^XDnaceous extra<5l
414° ^^ Practice o/'Brewing.
276
* 1 3 8 the middle fapo, or heat of the firft mafli or exfraft
1 64 the heat of the laft mafh or highefl degree of maturation,
becaufe it is the only number, that will anfwcr the fol^
lowing purpofes
302
1 5 1 the mean heat of the extrads, or of all the mallics,
119 the malt's drynefs
270
135 medium of malt's drynefs, and heat of the extracts
' 3 value of the virtue of the hops
138 the medium firil- intended.
'The elements for forming pale jlrong or pale fmall beers, intended
to be kept, are therejore the following.
Malt's drynefs ; value of hops ; whole medium ; firft mafh ; laft mafh.
1 19 3 138 ;38 -164
2 2
* The middle faponaceous heat is juices raifed by the precedllig autum-
made ufe of inflead of the lowefl 119, nal fun, refiding flill in the flem and
becaufe prefervation, as well as tran- branches of the plant, mix with thofe
fparency, is intended. This part of drawn up by the vernal heat, fo that
brewing is of the greateft confequence, the grapes, though acid at their fjrfl
and bears a remarkable analogy to the forming, are at the fame time, aufleie,
growth of grapes j for in the vine, the and of a middle nature.
It
Tie Practice^Brewing. 141
It is neceffary to add two degrees to the heat of every mafli,
fiich being the mean of 4 degrees conflantly loft in every ex-
trad, at the time they are fcparated from the grift, and ex-
pofed to the imprelTions of the air.
The fecond mode of extraction Is that, which makes a
tranfparent, but not a durable liquor. Under this head are
comprehended f COT •;7<?Hyff;^// beer, brown ales, and all malt li-
quors, becoming of themfelves fine, and foon fit for ufe.
Common fmall beer is fuppofed to be ready for ufe, in win-
ter, from two to fix weeks, and in the heat of fummer, from one
week to three. Its ftrength is regulated by the different prices
of malt and of hops ; its chief intent is to quench thirft, and its
moft elTential properties are, that in the winter it fhould be
fine, and in the fummer found. This liquor is chiefly ufcd
in and about great cities, fuch as London, where, for want of
a fufficient quantity of cellar room, drinks cannot be flowed,
which, by long and flow fermentations, would come to a greater
degree of perfedion. The duration of this kind of liquor being
fhort, and there being a necefTity of brewing it in every fea-
fon of the year, the incidents attending its compofition, and
the methods for carrying on the procefs muft be more vari-
ous and complicated, than thofe of any other liquor made
from malt.
l5eers intended for long keeping, are generally brewed, when
they have the advantage of being id to ferment with a heat
not exceeding 50 degrees, and as, in the coldeft feafons, the tem-
T peraturc
142 The Practice (TfEREWiNc.
perature of the cellars is in general at 45 degrees, and in the
hotteft at 65, the continued ftate of liquors long kept is near-
ly at ^^ degrees;
Common fmill beer maj^, in winter, be impreffcd by fucli
a heat, but in fummer, from the Ihortnefs of the duration of
the liquor, this advantage can, but in part, be obtained. In
proportion as it is brewed, in a hot or in a cold feafon,
we muft employ every means, either to repel or to attract the
acids circulating in the air ; for this purpofe, the degrees of
drynefs in the malt, and the quantity of hops mufl: vary as fuch
feafons do, as likevvife the heat of the extrafts, and the de-
gree of temperature the wort is fuffered to ferment with. The
fuccefs, in brewing common fmail beer, greatly depends on
its fermentation being retarded or accelerated as the feafons re-
quire. Expanfion being the principal efFefl of heat, was a
v/ort of this fort fuffered, in winter, to be fo cold as 40 degrees,
the air would, with ditB:u]ty, if at all, penetrate into the mufl,
and ]nit it in adion. This How fermentation would not per-
mit the beer to be ready at the time required. For thefe rea-
fons, brewers let down their worts, in that feafon, at 60 de-
grees, whereas in fummer the air of the night is made ufe oflo
get them as cold as poffible, by which means a part of them
may be 1 2 degrees colder than the medium of the heat of the
■ day, and the whole of the worts, nearly 5, in the fpace of
24 hours. '
The choice of the malt, as to its drynefs and color, for brew-
ing this liquor, is more arbitrary in the cold feafon than moft
other
77je Practice <?/ B r e vv i n g. 143
other circiimftances ; the drynefs forming only one part of the
medium, which may be re6tified by the heat given to the ex-
trads. In 'the height of fummer, malt dried to 130 degrees
feems to be the bell:, as -it unites the properties of fpeedy rea-
dinefs, prefervation, and tranfparency, and thefe feveral cha-
raders are, at that time, requiiite in this liqaor.
Was fmall beer to be ufed, in winter, immediately after be-
ing brewed, malts dried to their firft degree or to 119, would
be moft fit for that feafon ; but the intention is, that the drink
be kept fome fmall time, and-yet be readily fermented. Malt
dried between the proper degree for the hotteft time, or 130,
and 119, which is the lowcft, anfwers this character. Suppof-
ing therefore, that, when the heat of the air is at 40, malt of
124 degrees of drynefs be the properefl:, and when the medium
heat is at 60, that malt of 130 degrees of drynefs is fixed, the
following table will, from the proportion of thefe two ex-
tremes, fliew the proper color of the grain, for every fermen-
table heat.
T 2 Mak
1 44 Hie Practice o/" Brewing.
Heat in the
Malts Value of hops
air.
drynefs.
in degrees.
35 . . -
. 122 . ,
40 . . .
124 . ,
45 . . .
124. .
50 . •
. 127 .
SS • •
. 129 .
60 . . .
130 . .
65 . .
. 131 .
. . 2
70 . .
• 133 • •
. 2
75 • •
• ^l^ •
• • 2
80 . .
. 136 .
. . 2
What has been fald for determining the drynefs of the malt to
brew fmall beer with, according to ihe different feafons, may,
in feme meafnre, be applied to the difcoveiy of the heat, which
is to be given to the extrading water. Dry and moift heats,
are limilar as to their prefervative effe6ts ; to accelerate fermen-
tation, in a cold feafon, a leffer heat is to be given to the ex-
trafts, than when, from the heat of the air, we are obliged
to retard this operation. If no regard was to be had to the in-
cidents attending the ufe of common fmall beer, fuch a dry-
nefs in the grain, and fdch a medium heat in the extradl , as
would barely place it in a prefervative ftate, or 119 degrees
in both, would be fnfficient. In the highell: fermentable heat,
it would require that quantity of fire, by which the properties
of the grain are ftill preferved, but, upon the leaft increafe,
« would
7^^ Practice 0/ Brewing. 145
would begin to be difperfed. The joint medium would then
be 1 57 degrees. Though we know, that this is not exadly
tlie cafe, with regard to fmall beer, a table founded on this
fuppofition will afTift us, when we have found the mean of all
the incidents attending this liquor.
Medium of the drynefs
Heat of the of the malt and of the
air. heat of the extracts.
40 119
45 124
50 130
SS '34
60 138
65 143
70 748
75 153
80 157
It would be very defirable, if it was poflible, to fix a con-
ftant term for the duration of this liquor ; but this will vary in
each different feafon, and according to the primitive heat the
wort is made to ferment under.
All mufts and worts contrail heat, by the motion excited in
the fermentable aft ; the nearer this heat comes to ^o de-
grees, the lefs will the liquor keep found ; and in proportion
as the heat approaches 40, ;!ie more reluftantly will the wort
be brought to ferment. Sixty degrees, being the mean between
thefe two extremes, feems, therefore, the higheft heat a firfl: re-
gular
1 4.6 The Practici: o/Bhewino.
gular ferznentatlon fl-jould arife to. Beers, long to be kept, re-
quire more time to be under this a(fl, and are not immediately
brought to this heat ; .whereas, in common fmall beer, where
'difpatch is required, efpecially in winter, the worts are at once
fct to ferment at a heat of 60 degrees, and foon after conveyed
to cellars generally 50 degrees hot. The mean between thefe
two, or ^^ is therefore the degree of heat, which fmall beer
endures, when the air is at the firft fermentable degree of heat,
or 40 degrees. This, according to the foregoing table, (page
■ 145) fhews that the medium of the drynefs of the malt and of
the heat of the extrads is to be 134 degrees, upon the fup-
polition that the drink is ufed immediately, or at leaft as foon
as fettled after the firfl: fermentation is over. But we have
already obferved, that, in this feafon, fmall beer is exped-
ed to keep from 4 to 6 weeks, and to find out what addition is
to be made on that account to the medium of 134 degrees,
we muft compare this liquor, under a fermenting heat of 60
degrees, to fome other drink of a longer duration , nearly
alike in quality, and make a proper allowance for their dif-
ference in heat, under the firfl: fermentation.
The firfl mode of extraftion, or that of pale fmall beer in-
tended to be kept long, furnifhes us with a liquor fit for this
comparifon. It is generally brewed when the heat of the air
is at 40 degrees ; the heat it is put at firfl to ferment with is
50, and when rifen to its highefl pitch, it comes to 60 : the
medium of the drynefs of the malt and of the heat of the
extrads for keeping fmall beer, abflraftcd from the value of
thq
The Practiceo/Brevving. 147
the liops, we have fixed at 135 degrees in the account of its
conftituent parts, page 140. Snch a drink, with 10 wt. of hops
for every quartcT of malt, will keep as many months. Was
the medium of the degrees of drynefs in malt, and of the ex-
trading heat of common fmall beer, when the temperature of
the air is at 40, to be 135 degrees, the wort fet to ferment
at firft with a heat of 50 degrees, together with 3 wt. of
hops to every quarter of malt, would preferve itfelf found
for three months. But, as we have obferved, common fmall
beer, in winter, is made immediately to ferment, at a heat of
60 degrees; the difference between 60° and 50°, being 10",
will produce in the effeds, a difference of 8" in the numbers
of the table, page 145 ; and fince thefe 8 degrees are equal to
3 months keeping, 4" will anfwer to 6 weeks. The medium
of thefe 4° only muft be added to the medium before found,
or ^^\ and will bring it to 57" ; confequently the number
136,' or rather, on account of the hops, 137° ought to take
place in the procefs of common fmall beer, when the heat of
the air is at 40 degrees.
This governing number for the firil fermentable degree of
heat in the air being difcovered, it isnecefiary to feek the
governing number of the other fermentable extreme, but this,
being attended v.idi a variety of circumftances, can only be
fixed, by making, trom experience, proper allowances for
them. »
la
14^ 7^-e Practice o/" Brewing,
In cold -weather, as the temperature of the air is nearly uni-
form, during the term of the natural day, worts cool almoft as
fail at one time as at another ; but the cafe is quite different
in fummer, the evenings and nights are employed to obtain the
greateft cold ; fermentation, at this feafon, is likcwife carried
en with more violence, being rather forwarded than checked
by the exterior air. This internal agitation is often increafcd by
the beers being conveyed from place to place, in the midft of
the day, and in the fun-fhine. Large cities are generally more
hot in fummer-time, than country places, where the buildings
are lefs crowded, and as our obfcrvations, for the medium heats
of the natural day, were made at Hampftead, an allowance
muft be made on this account. The difference in the heat of
the cellars, at this time, need but little regard, and will at
moft produce an abatement of one degree, as thofe, which
are allotted for common fmall beer, are none of the befl,
and the exterior air is fufFered to have a free accefs to them.
i @ I
When
The Practice ^Brewing. 1 49
When (^o degrees are the mean heat of the day, a
lirft wort, by being expofed to the air until even-
ing, may be let down at - - - 60 degrees.
A laft wort, by receiving the benefit of the eveji-
ing's and night's cold - - - - 48
loS
The m.ean heat - - - - - 54
Heat gained by fermentation - - - 10
Allowance for the prefervative quality, as before 2
Heat gained, by the drink being conveyed in the
fun 3
Difference of heat betw^een London and Hamp-
(lead -----__2
Dedudion for the cold received in the cellars i
70 degrees.
Now this number anfwers in the table, (page 145) to that
of 148 for the drynefs of the malt and the heat of the extrads,
to which one degree more is to be added for the value of the
hops. The two extremes being thus fixed, the intermediate
fpace for every degree of heat in the air, in which common
fmall beer is to be brewed, is eafily determined. The heat of
the firft and laft extrads, for any particular cale, will be fet-
tled by the fame rules, as were employed for pale ftrong and
pale fmall beers long to be kept. One example, flicwing
U how
1 50 The Practice „^ Brewing.
how this method holds good throughout the whole, will be
fufficient, and fhcw dae means, by which the following table
was formed.
When the air is at 40, the degree of diynefs fixed for malts
to be ufed for common fmall beer is 124, and the medium
of their dryncfs and the heat of the extrads, together with th©
value of the hops added thereto, is 137 degrees.
124
7^^Practice(?/"Brewing. 151
124 Malt's drynefs
150 the higheft medium of the extruding heats
74
137 the medium intended
150 higheft extrading medium as before
38 whole number of faponaceous degrees
1 1 2 loweft faponaceous heat for this purpofe
150 higheft extracting heat, the I ft maih could' bear
for this purpofe
262
1 3 1 heat of the firft mafh
1 65 heat of the laft mafti
296
148 medium of the extrading heats
124 drynefs of malt
272
136 medium of malt's drynefs and heat of extrads
J value of hops
•»37 medium fought for, and diredcd as above
- U 2 The
1^2. The Practice of Brewing.
The medium of the heat loft in the ma{h tun, amounting
to two degrees, is added to the heat of the firft and laft malli
in the following table. In the hotteft feafon, the laft extrads
for common fmall beer are made to exceed 175 degrees, a
heat which alcohol boils at, but this is at a time when the malts
are far from pofTeffing the whole of their properties, and if fuch
a heat was not ufed at that time, the number of degrees of
faponaceoufncfs could not take place to regulate the heat ot the
firft mafti, and the liquor would not retain a fufficient quantity
of acids to be capable of fermentation, or become tolerably
clear. Thefe two circumftances experience (hews to be pre-
ferable to fome increafe in the duration arid ftrcHj^th of th«
drink. ' ■
\^s>K. «t « m TO XR ns HI >n ;n ^»,
♦'^ . .^ 3g a js js a a H K « ^^
c^^— ^-^ * ^ « -^ ^-S>
A Table
7})e Practice <9/* Brewing. 153
A Table of the elements for Jonning common Jmall beer, at
every degree oj heat in the air, ' with the allowance oj two
degrees of heat, in the firji and hfl extradlions.
Heat
malt's
value of
medium of
the
heat of
heat of
•fair.
dryncfs.
hops.
heat of the
ex-
firft
laa
.
trades and male's
maib.
mafli.
drynefs.
■35
122
I
- ^25
-
131 "
165
40
- 124
I
' 137
1*
133 ■
167
45
- 125
1
140
-
138 .
■ 172
50
- 127
I
- 143
-
142
. 176
SS
- 129
1
- 146
-
146
180
to
- 130
- I^
- 149
-
151 -
• '83
From a dne obfervation of this table, it appears, how ne-
cefTary it is for brewers to be acquainted, not only with the
daily temperature of the air, but alfo with the medium heat
of fuch fpaces of time, wherein a drink hke this is expedted to
preferve itfelf. This I have eftimated for every r 4 days ; but
as the event may not ahvays exadly correfpond wiih our expec-
tations, an abfolute perfection in this drink, as to its tranfparency,
is not to be expeded. It greatly depends on the care and attention
given to it, and on the temperature and quiefcent liate of the eel-'
lars it is placed in. The firft of thefe circumllances is often
ne-
1 54. 7%e Practice (?/ Brewing,
ncgledcd, and the other hardly ever obtained, as the places,
where common fmall beer is kept, are generally the vvorfe of
the kind. Wlien the heat of the air is fo hot as 60 degrees,
fnch diLdvantages mnft naturally accompany the brewing of
this liquor, that all, what can be expcded from art at this time,
is to make it anfwer fomewhat near to the properties required
in it.
The third mode of exlradlion is that, which, in order to
gain every advantage of time, produces fuch drinks, as cannot
become fpontaneoufly pellucid, but require the help of preci-
pitation.
The improvement, which every fermented liquor gains by long
{landing, is very confiderablcj the parts of this grain, which give
fpirit to the wine, being, by repeated fermentations, more and
more attenuated, not only become more light and pungent, but
alfo more wholefome. If, in order to give to beers this prc-
fervative quality, more oils are extradcd, in proportion to the
falts, tranfparency cannot take place ; but, when the heat employ-
ed for this purpofe does not exceed certain limits, this defecH:
may eafily be remedied, and the drink be fined by precipitati-
on ; and as time enables it to take up part of the very oils,
which at firft prevented its tranfparency, it will, by long {land-
ing, become both brighter and ftronger.
Where the demand for a liquor Is conftant and confiderable,
but the quantity required not abfolutely certain, it ought to be-
brewed in a manner that time may increafe its merit, and prc-
cipita-
J'ht Practice <?/ Brewing. 1.-5
clpitation render it almoft immediately ready for life. Thefc
circumftances dirtinguifh.this clafs ofextradion, and j'lAlfy the
preference given to porter or brown beer, which come under
that mode.
It appears, by the table (page 103.) that drinks brewed from
malts, affedtcd by heats, whofe medium is 148 degrees, re-
quire from H to X 2 months with precipitation to become bright ;
and as this is the age generally appointed for brown beers to be
drank at, 148 degrees will give the medium of the heatofth«
extrads, and of the drynefs of the malt.
The quantity of hops, necefTary for the preferving of pale
beers, has been obferved to be one pound weight to every quar-
ter of malt, for every month the liquor is intended to be kept j
but -hops employed for thefe pale ftrong drinks are fuppofed to
be new, and ftrong, whereas, in porter, where the j^rice does not
keep an equal pace with the value of the commodity, hops,
rather lefs in quality, are thought \.o be fufficient. Their quan^
tity is, on this account, encreafed from i 2 to 14 pound, per quar-
ter, and their value eftimatcd in the calculation to 3" 75 which,
being deducted from 14S, feem to indicate malts of 141 de-
grees ; but, as the drynefs of the malt muft conftantly be lefs
than the heat it is imprefled with, wasgrain ufed of this de-
gree of drynefs, this necefTary circumrtance could not take
place. Therefore the higheft dried of the pale kind, or the
firft degree of the brown, has been fixed upon as more eligible,
efpecially as it conduces to a more fuccelsful precipitation.
In
156 The Practice<j/"Brewing.
In the drinks before examined, the whole number of fapo-
naceous degrees or 3 8 has been conrtantly employed, they be-
ing intended to become fpontaneoufly bright ; but, as this qua-
lity is in the prefent cafe only required with the afliftance of
precipitation, the numbers 32 or 33, in the table fhewingthe ef-
fcdsof the fev'eral faponaceous degrees (page 137 ) feem thepro-
pereft to anfwer our purpofe, as they correfpond nearly to the
time this liquor is in general made ufe of. Thefe conditions
being premifed, the proper degrees of the firft and laft extradl
for porter will be found by the fame rules as were ufed before,
138 Malt's drynefs
158 higheft mean of extracting heats
296
148 the medium of the malt's drynefs and heat of extrafis, with
the value of the hops required
158 as above
32 number of faponaceous degrees employed in this procefs
1 1 6 loweft faponaceous heat for this brewing
158 higheft faponaceous heat
284
142 heat of the firft mafK
J 60 heat of the lafl: mafh
302
^he Practice c/Bre WING. 157
151 true medkim of the extrads
138 drynefs of the malt
2S9
144;- medium heat of malt's drynefs, and heat of extrads
3 \ value of the effed of the hops
148? medium fought for and diredled as above.
The elements, for brewing hrcnvn (Irong beer, with two degrees ad-
ded to thefirjl and lajl extradls, for what is lo/l in their parting
from the malt.
Malt's drynefs ; value of hops ; whole medium ; firft mafh ; laft malh.
138 —-31 148 ■ 144 162
It may be obferved, that 3^ degrees are charged for the
quantity of hops ufed ; as this number correfponds to the quan-
tity proper to form beer of this denomination. A greater or a
lefs proportion of hops is indeed fometimes allowed to this drink,
on account of its better or inferior quality, of the necefTity there
may be to render it fit for ufe in a Ihorter time than that which is
commonly allowed, viz. from 8 to 12 months, and laftly of old,,
flale, or otherwife defedlve drinks blended with new guiles. In
thefe cafes, which cannot be too rare, the errors fliould be correct-
ed only by the addition of hops, and no alteration be made, either
in the drynefs of the malts, or in th.- heat of the extra61s.
X The
1^3 'The Practice c/ Brewing."
The fourth mode of extradion is that, which, by convej^ing
a (greater heat to the firfl: mafh, than is done in the preced-
ing cafes, gives to the liquors, commonly known by the names'
oi pale ale, amber or fwopeiiny, the fofteft: and richeft tafVe malt
can poffibly yield, and makes them refemble wines formed
from grapes ripened by the hotteil fun.
As wines have, in-general, been named from the town or city,
in the neighbourhood of which the grapes, from wliicli they
are made, are found growing, this has, though with lefs rea-
fon, been in fome meafure the cafe, ■ with our numerous clafs of
foft beers ' and ales. Thefe topical der.ominations can indeed
conftitute no real or at leaft no confiJerable difference, fince
the birth place of any drink is the leall of all difiindions, where
the method of pradice, the materials employedj and the heat of
the climate are. fo ticarly alike.
The ale, we have noxv under confi deration, is to be pale;
the drynefs of the malts fhould therefore be from 1 1 9 the firfl
degree to 130, when the color begins to change to amber. As
this drink is expeded to be rich with the grain, this laft dry-
nefs is not to be exceeded, the flrength of the extrad enhanc-
ing the color. The liquors of this fort, generally brewed in
and about London, are from malts of 124 degrees in diynefs, or
what are termed pale.
Ales are not required to keep a long time ; fo the hops be*
flowed upon them, though they Ihoujd always be of the finell
color and befl qualify, arc proportinably fewer in the winter,
tJian
*fhe Practiceit/'Brewing. i^o
than In the fummcr The rcafon is, that the confiimption
made of this hquor in cold weather is generally for p\irl,*
whereas in fiiminer, as it is longer on draught, it requires a
more prefervative quality.
V\' here pungency iai tarte and length of prcfervation are hafend-
ed, the heats of the firfl extr;i6is ought to bt the n-iean between the
higheft and lowcft ; but, where! a mi ft, as in- this .cafe, i& re-
quired to lay long expofed, and to refift to, ilie acid particles |'
Hoating in the air, fuch' an exiraordinary power muft be given j
to the oils, as is equal to the time it is to be expofed to the air
which is at Icaft three times more than' what is required for
common fmall beer. As fermentation ads rr^ore powerfully on
worts, in proportion to the heat of the air, the'extrads for ale
worts being always uniform, are, in the hot feafon, inrichcd
with oils, from ihe increafed quantity of hops, which checks
and retards the. violent agitation thefe \^'orts would otherwife be
liable to. The following calculation, where the firll extrad is
imprefled with a degree of heat, determined by this rule, has been
found by experience conducive to fuccefs ; but tranfparency be-
ing one of the necefTary properties of this drink, the whole me-
dium ought never to exceed 138 degrees, and in proportion
as the heat is raifed in tlie iirft extradt, it muft be deprefled in
thelaft,
* P«r/, is pale ale, in which biitcr ings, and a much better and vvhole-
aromatics, fuch as woimwcod, orange fonr.cr relief to them than Tpirituous li»
pee!, &c. are infufed, ufed by the k- quors,
bouiing people, chiefly in cold n:orn-
X 2 124
1 6o I'he Practice ^Brewing*
124 malt's drynefe
152 highefl heat.
152 highefl extradling heat, "^ 138 medium of malts drynefs
the firft mafh could bear
38 whole number of faponace-
ous degrees ; as pellucidity
is expefted,
1 1 4 loweft faponaceous heat
and heat of extrads
152 from above, this multiplied
by 3 for the reafonsjuft
given
456
114
number of the highefl and lowefl — ~
faponaceous heats... 4 [ 5^
1 43 heat of the firfl extraft
155 heat of the lafl extra(5l
298
149 mean heat of the extracts
124 malts drynefs
136T medium of drj'nefs of malt
and heat of extrads
It medium of the value of
hops ufed in every feafon
' »3S
^je P R A C T I C E ^ B R E VV I N G. I B'l
138 medium of the whole re-
quired.
:o: :« :« a o: '0. '0. s e? "C! iS iS :<5 :« s>: io; is is x> » s » js :o s ^ :« si ici 0 '&. "& &. k
2"-^^ elements, for brewing pale ale or amber, with the allowance of
2 degrees for the heat left in the extraSls,
medium of the
malts drynefs value of hops whole heat of firft mafli heat of lad: mafti
124 ll 138 145 157
The time, this liquor is intended to be kept, fhould entirely
be governed by the quantity of hops ufed therein ; for this ale
being required to become fpontaceoully fine, the medium of
the whole or 138 degrees cannot be exceeded. In and about
London, and in fome countries in England, thefe ales, by
periodical fermentations, are made to become fine, fooner than
naturally they would do, and often in a fhorter time than one
week. The means of doing this, by beating the yeaft into the
drink, as it is termed, has by fome people been greatly blamed,
and thought to be an ill pradtice. An opinion of the yeaft being
unwholefome has prevailed ; and fome brewers, erroneoufly led
by this, and yet willing that their commodity lliould appear of
equal ftrength with fuch as had undergone repeated fermentations,
have been induced to add ingredients, to their worts, if not of
the moft deftrudive nature, at leaft very unwholefome. The
plain truth is, that, by returning the elaftic air in the fer-
menting ale, the effeds of Jong keeping are greatly imi-
tated.
i62 iTje Practice <?/ Brewing.
tated, tho'-igh with lefs advantage as to flavor and to rtrength ;
but as this cafe relates to fermentition, we fhall have hereafter
an opportunity of farther explaining it.
It is under this clafs, that the famous Burtcn ale inay be ranked,
and if I dont miftake, it will be found,' that its qualities and intrin-
iic value will be the fame, when judicioufly brewed in London or
elfewhere, from whence it may be exported at much cheaper
rates to RufTia and other parts, than where it is increafed in price
by a long and chargeable land-carriage.
We fhould now put an end to this fefrion, but as other
drinks are brewed befides ihofe here particularly treated of, I
fhall juft mention them, to flievv, how their different proceffcs
are reducible to the rules juft laid down.
Brown ale is a liquor, whofe length is generally two barrels
from one quarter of malt, and which is not intended for prefer-
vation. It is heavy, .thick, foggy, and therefore juftly grown in
difufe. The hops ufed in tliis liquor differ in proportion to the
heats of the feafon it is brewed in, but are generally nearly half
the quantity of what is employed, at the fame times, for common
fmall beer. The fyflem, it ought to he brewed upon, is not dif-
ferent from that of this iaft liquor, the medium of the malt's dry-
nefs and heat of the extrads arc the fame foi each degree of heat
in the air, and it requires the fame management when under
fermentation. But though common pale fmall beer and brown
ale are fo much alike in their theory, yet, from the diffe-
rence of the dr^nefs of the malt which, for brown ale, is
conflantly fo high as 138 degrees, the pradice will appear
greatly
The Practiceo/'Brewing. i6^
greatly different. Sinall beer is made after this ale, by the fame
rules as that rhade affer pale ale or amber ; the maks muit, in that
cafe, be valued according to their original drynefs, and eflimatedat
the medium, as if no extrad had been taken from them. No fmall
beer brewed after ales can ever be equal in goodnefs to fuch as are
bl'ewed from, entire grifts ; but that which is made after brown
ale, from the grain being fo highly dried and nearly exhauiled
in the firrt procefs, is neither nourifhing or fit to quench thirll:.
BroiBTi ftout is brewed with brown malt, as amber is with
pale; the fyftem for brewing thefe liquors is the fame, allowing
for the difference in the drynefs of the malt. The overftrengdi
of this drink has been the reafon of its being difcontinued,
cfpecially fince porter or brown beer has been bi ought to a
greater perfeftion. That, which is biewed, with an intent of
being long bept, fhould be hoppd, in proportion to the time
propoled, or the climate it is to be conveyed to. '
Old hock requires the fame proportion of hops, as are ufed in
keeping pale Ibong or keeping pale fmall beer; but more or lefs
according to the time it' is intended to be kept before it becomes
fit for ufe. The length is about two barrels, from a quarter
of the paleil and beft malt. As fpontaneous pcllucidity is
required, its wliole medium mufl not exceed 138 degrees, for
the drying and extracting heat. The management of it, when
fermenting, is under the fame rules with the liquor jufi: now
menti(jned, or thofe which are allowed a due time to become
of themfelvc;8 pellucid.
Ttorchcfiir
1 64. 1'ke Practicec/ Brewinct.
Dorchejler been, both flrong and fmall, range under the
fanne head. They are brewed from barlies well germinated,
but not dried to the denomination of malt. The rule of the
whole 138 degrees for the medium, muft, even with this grain,
be obferved to form thefe drinks ; but, from the flacknefs of the
malt and the quantities of fait and wheaten flour mixed with the
liquor, when under fermentation, proceed its peculiar tafte, its
mantling, and its frothy property.
X
SECTION
*j7je Practice <?/"Bre WING. 165
SECTION IV.
Of the NATURE and PROPERTIES c/HOPS.
^5^-^ HE conftituent parts of malt, like thofc of all vege-
A ■ ^ T ?. ^^t)le fvveets, are fo inclined to fennentation, that,
^X y.% when once put in motion, it is difficult to retard
■s^^ls^ their progrefs, retain their prefervalive qualities,
and prevent their becoming acid. Among the many means put
in praftice, to check this forwardnefs of the malt, none pro-
mifed lo much fuccefs as blending with the extrads the juices
of fuch vegetables , which , of themfelves , are not eafily
brought to fermentation. Hops were feleded for this pur-
pofe, and experience has confirmed their wholefomenefs and
efficacy.
Hops are an aromatic, grateful bitter, endued with an au-
flere and aAringent quality, and guarded by a ftrong refinous oil.
The aromatic parts are volatile, and difengage themfelves from
the plant with a fmall heat. To preferve them, in the pro-
ceffes of brewing, the hops fbould be put into the copper, as
foon as poffible, and be thoroughly wetted with the firfl; ex-
trad, while the heat of the wort is at the leaft, and the fire un-
der the copper has little or no efFedt thereon. Whoever will be
at the trouble to fee this performed, by the means of rakes or
othcrwife, will be made fenfible, that the flavor is retained,
Y which.
1 66 'Th& Practice (t/Brewing.
which, when the wort comes to boil, is conftantly difilpated in
the air.
The bitter is of a middle nature, or femivolatile; it re-
quires more fire to ex'ra(5l it, than the aromanc part, b-.t x*ot
lo much as the auftere or aftringent. Hence it is plain, that
tlie principal virtues of this plant are beft obtained by de-
coftion, and that the auftere parts do not exh.ibif themfelves^
but when urged by fo violent and long continued boiling, as is
feldom, or never pra<5tifedin the brewery. li would be great-
ly fatisfadory to fix, from experiments, tlie degrees of heat^
that firft difperfe the aromatic, next the bitter, and laftly die
auftere parts : and it is likely that, by this means, a more eafy
and certain metliod of judging of the true value and condit.on
of hops, than any yet known, might be difcovered.
This vegetable is fo far from being, by itfelf, capable of a re-
gular and perfed fermentation, that, on the contrary, its refinous
parts retard the aptnefs which malt has to this ad. Hops, In
this manner, keep barley-wines found a longer fpace of time,
and by repeated and flow frettings, give an opportuijity to the
particles of the liquor to be more feparated and comminuted.
Fermented liquors acquire thus a greater pungency, fo that,
even if they did receive no additional ftrength from this mix-
ture, the dired contrary of which might eafily be made to
appear, ftill would hops, from the circumftance juft men-
tioned, be the occafion of an improvement of tafte and an in-
creafc of itren gth.
Dr.
7he PRACTrCE<7/"BRfiWING. 167
Dr. Grew feems to thinilc, that the bitter of the hops may
be increai'ed by a greater degree of drj-nefs ; but perhaps this is
only one of the means of retaining longer this quality, which
undoubtedly decreafes through age, in a proportion which, as
near as can be gueffed, is from ten to 15 /'tv cent yearly.
The varieties in the foil, and in the feafons, in which hops
are planted, may alfo have fome fhare in their inequality.
They feem to be much benefitted by the fea air. Whoever
will try fimi'ar procefles with the Worcefterfliire and Kentifh
hops, will foon perceive the difference, and the general opinion
strengthens this affertion, as the county of Kent alone pro-
duces nearly half the quantity of hops ufed in this kingdom.
The fooner and the tighter hops are ftrained after having
been bagged, fhe better will they preferve themfelves. The
opinion that they increafe in weight, if not ftrained until after
Chrillmas, may be true, but will not recommend the prac-
tice ; the hops imbibe the moifhure of the winter air, which,
when the weather grows drier, is loft again, together with
fome of the more fpirituous parts. Nor is this the greateft da-
mage occafioned by this delay, as hops, by being kept Hack
bagged in a damp feafun, too often become mouldy.
Hops may be divided into ordinary and ftrong, and into
old and new. The denominati9n of old is firft given to them,
one year after they have been bagged. New ordinary hops^
when of equal drynefs, are fuppofcd to be alike in quality, with
old llrong ones.
y 2 The
; 6 8 1h& Practice o/Brewing.
Tlie different teints, with which hops are affeded in brew-
ing, afford the beft rule for adapting their color to that of the
nialt ; in general the fineft liops are the leafl, but the moft
carefully, dried.
• To extradl the refinous parts of the hops, it is necefTary
they fhould be boiled. The method of difpofing them is ge-
nerally to put the whole quantity, in the firll wort, which
being, always made wirh waters lefs hot than the fiicceed-
ing extrads , pofTefTes the greatell: fhare of acids , and is
in want of the largefl: proportion of refins and bitters to de-
fend it. The virtue of tlie hops is not entirely lofl by once
boiling, and there remains ftill enough to bittex and prei"er\e
the fecond wort. But where the firll is fhort of itfelf, and a
large quantify of hops are required for the whole, it is needlefs
and wafteful to put more in at once than the firfl mu/l can ab-
forb, which appears by a thin bitter pellicle floaling on the
wort. No particular rules can be given to avoid this inconve-
niency, as the nature and quantity of the worts on one fide,
and the ftrength of the hops on the other, muft occalion a dif-
ference in the management eafily determinable by experience.
Hops carry with them into tlie wort large quantities of air,
the more of which a wort pofTefTes the more it is inclinable to
ferment : and, as fire expels air, the more hops a wort contains,
the longer a liquor is intended to be kept, or the hotter the fea-
fon is in which it is brewed, the longer boiling it requires.
When
'The Practice<?/'Brewing. 169
When waters, not fuiBcrently hot, have been ufed, the worts,
for want of the proper quantity of oils, readily admit of thp
external ImprefTions ot the air , and are eafily excited to a
flrong and tumultiious fermentadon, which diiperfes the bijEter
particles, and diminiflies the effcdls of the hops. The virtue
of this plant is therefore retained in the drinks, in proportion
to the heat of the extrafts, and the llownefs of the fermen-
tation.
Hops fhould be ufed in proportion to the time th-at the li-
quors are to be kept, and the ^eat of the air in which they
are fermented. As the medium Tieat which dried the malt is
added to that of the extracts, the value of the oils, raifed by the
drying of the ho})s, is likewife to be added to the medium of the
malt's drying and of the heat of the extrads. • '- ■* ^
. - *r ■ 1
The quantity requifite to preferve any drink a twelvemonth
being known, and how much is nctcfTary to keep beers or' ales
four weeks, when the air is at 40 degrees, tables may be
formed afcertalning the proper quantities to be ufed in all cafes.
Experience has fhewn tliat 1 2 pounds of hops of ra good
quality, joined to one quarter of malt, are a fiifficient prefer-
vative for one twelve month. * It has Jik^wifc been found that
15 pounds produce., upon ..the worts tlie^fauje jffed, as if 5
* This rule only t?.kcs place for ccuntries, or to undergo long voj'sges,
fuch climates, as are of the fame heat twenty pounds of hops to one quarter
with ours; for when drinks are brew- of malt have been ufed with fucceis.
c|l to be opepdcd in more fouthern
dcQ-rees
1 7© The Practice (^/"Brewing.
degrees more of heat had been added to that of the extra^.
The calculations to prove this would be long and unnecefTar}',
and the effedl of hops as well as that of the malt may be judged
of by the color of the extraft. I would only add that hops,
after they have been boiled for one purpofe, are fometimes
and efpecially in fmall beer brewed after pale ales, ufed for
another, and may then be fuppofed to have loft three fourths
of their virtue.
After having premifed thefe obfervations, the conftrudion as-
well as utility of the following tables will be obvious.
A Table of the value of the hops exprefied in de-^
grees, to be added to the medium of the drynefs
of the malt, and of the heat of the extrads.
Hops new or pale, low dried,
ftrong old
15 lb equal - - - 5 3t
12 ----- 3t ----- J
8 _.---2t-----2
4 -----It I
A'Tabli
He Practice o/^BREwiNGi
7»
%<^^(^'<<li '™ W
A Table of the quantity of hops reqiiifite for ev^ery
quarter of malt brewed for porter, fapoofed to be
fit for ufe from eight to twelve month.
16
Old ordinary hops llarted over old beer
d" neat guiles - _ _ _
Strong good old hops when flarted over old been 2^-
d" neat gviiles - _. -
New ftrong hops when ftarted over old beer
ditto neat guiles - _ . .
New ordinary hops rtarted over old beer
14 per quarter
J2i
ditto neat guiles
12
12
114-
I2i
12
iV. B. The quantity of old beer to be blended with new is
here fuppoled never to exceed one eight part of the whole
quantity.
A Ta))lp.
1^2 7^^ Practice of B r e \v i n g.
A Table of the quantity of hops requifite for com-
mon fniall beer, for each quarter of malt, in every
feafon.
Heat in the air
35" - - -
4° - - - •
45 - - -
50 - - -
55 - - -
60 - - -
65
70 - - -
75 V - -
^o - - - - 9 o
The medium heat of the hotfeft: days in England, feldom at
any time, exceeds 60 degrees, but I continued the tabic pro-
portionably, as the quantities are here fet down from repeated
experiments. It appears, that, as, at the loweft fermentable
degree of heat, 3 pounds of hops are required for each quarter
tjf malt, at the higheft, 9 pound of hops fhould be allowed for
each quarter,
A Table
new
hops
^.
oz.
2
8
3
0
3
8
4
4
5
0
6
0
6
12
7
8
8
4
old
hops
lb
OZ,
2
8
3
0
3
8
4
8
5
8
■6
8
Tie Practiceo/'Brewing. i^j
A Table of the quantity of hops neceffary to each
quarter of malt in brewing amber or two-penny.
Heat of the
air
%
oz
zs
-
-
-
-
I
6
40
-
-
-
-
2
0
45
-
-
-
-
3
0
5*5
-
-
-
-
4
0
SS^^
^
-
-_
-
^
0
60
-
-
-
-_
(y
0
Amber is a liquor, which, by repeated periodical fermen-
tations, is fo attenuated, as to be foon fit for ufe, and by its
ftrength is fuppofed to refirt longer the impreffions of the air
than other liquors, efpecially in winter ; for this reafon, though
foon fit for ufe in this feafon, it requires fewer hops than common
fmall beer, and wants only the fame quantity in the fummer,
irom its fermentations being quick and violent.
A Table
t^4i^ 77y^ P'R A C'T I c E of Br e w i n g.-
A'. Table of the quantity of hops neceflary for each
quarter of malt, in brewing Burton ale.
This liquor requires fewer hops than fuch ales, which are
more diluted by water : as it is always brewed in the winter,
the quantities here fet down are for the number of months it
is luppofed to be kept, before it is drank or bottled.
Monxlis
Iti oz.
3Ji \d '-
I ■"
- -
-■
X
o
2 ■'-
-" -■
-
I
8
3 -
-. -
-
o
o
4:n 7
■■:'' oa
-
2
•8,
5 -
-
-
3
o
6> -
■HA ;•
IJjClii/
fli 7
:h
7 •
-. -
.-■
4
o
8 -
- -
-
4
8
9
- -
-
5
o
lO -
-
-
5
8
11
-
6
Q
12 -
.
-
6
8
Though common amber, keeping amber and Burton ales re-
quire the fame degree of heat in their extradls, yet fome fmall
exception. mufl be made to tliis£ule, on account of the different
quantity of hops ufcd»
Belides
Iloe Practice<7/*Bre\ving. 175
Eefides the ufe of hops for keeping the mufts of malt, they
tnay be alfo employed j. to flrengthen the cxtiadt, or at leall
to give it a po\y,qr.to refift infeftion or acidity. One or two
pounds in a net fiifpended in the water the extract is to be made
\vith, are fuflicient' for thalpurpofe.
Though the purchafing the materials, nfcd in any manu-
facture, does not immediately, relate to its practical part, yet
as, in this cafe, it is of great importance to the brewer to
know what (lock -it is- prudent for him -to keep cf an ingredient
eqvially necefTary and "variable in its value, I "hope the attempt
of a calculation on this fubjedl w'iUealijy be pardoned.
The amount of the duty upon hops, for 13 years, from
i'733 to 1745, was .^.-704198, wliich fum, eftimating th^:
duty at 2 [5. per bag, gives 670665 -bags ufed in that time.
At the beginning" "and expiration of this interval, hops fold at
that high. price, at which no flock in hand is fuppofed to remain,
viz. ixQva.^^. 8 to j^. lo. ^cr hundred. If, tlierefore, totheafore-
faid quantity of 670665 bags, which may-be fupposed to have
fer\^ed for the wliole'cohfumption during-this period, we add
what may have efcaped paying duty,_^ and fomewhat for the
greater demand for this commodity at tliis-time than it was
twenty years ago, tlie annual confumphon- of hops may be
eftimated at 65000 bags. From thefe premifes, the following
table was conrtruded, which, though not capable of abfolute
certainty, may be of fome'fervicc to the brewers^ in informing
them of the quantities, that probably remain in hands at any
time, and the flock which prudeijice will fuggeil them to layiin.
Z 2 A Table
176 7he Practice ^Brewing.
A Table fliewing the medium price, hops fhould
bear, and determining the quantity to be pur-
chafed, in proportion to the ftock in hand.
Prices
of hops at
a medium '
*
flock of new am
old liops in the
whole kingdom,
after the harveft
\
quantity of
hops equal to
as miny weeks
confumptlcui.
30 i
35
40
Shill.
^
-
130000
125000
120000
bags
"
^
70
61
45
50
^
"
^
:
1 1 5000
1 1 0000
^
^
.
"■
57
53
60
^
.
^^
—
105000
100000
^
~
"•
"
47
4+
70
80
"
~
^
-
95000
90000
—
_
"
»
40
36
90
100
"
^
""
^
85000
80000
^
^
»
—
32
28
1 10
-
-
-
-
75000
-
-
-
-
24
120
130
—
•■
•*
—
75000
70000
—
"
^
••
20
16
140
-
-
-
-
67000
•
-
-
-
12
150
-
-
-
-
65000
-
-
-
-
8
160
170
:
~
"
:
62000
60000
•"
•
^
*
4
180
-
-
-
-
57000
190
200
_
■■
^
■"
55000
52000
* Forty fliillings//r hundred weight tity of old left in hand, and that of new
arc fuppofcd to be the mean difference hops grown, in order to afccrtain the
between new and old hops, and ought to value of the laft.
be eftimated in proportion to the quan-
SECTION
77>e PrACTICE^BrEWING. jyy
SECTION V.
0/ ibe LENGTHS nece/ary to form MALT-LIQUORS
c/ the feveral dimminations.
•>^i^^^^ Y length, in the brewery, is underftood the quantity
^ B f of drink made from one quarter of malt. Beers
^^^^^4 ^"*^ ^^^^ differ in this refpedt ; and the particular
ftrength ullowed to every fort of drink varies alfo
fomewhat, according to the prices of the materials. This
increafe or abatement is however never fuch as to make the
profits certain or uniform ; for the value of the grain being fome-
times double of what it is at other times, a proportionable dimi-
nution in ftrength can by no means take plate.
It might be expeded to find here tables determining the dif-
ferences in flrength and quality of each drink, in proportion to
their prices and the expences of the brewer. But this, on many
accounts, would be inconvenient, and in fome refpecls imprac-
ticable. He, who chufes to be at this trouble, ought not only
to take in his account the prices of malt and hops, and the
duties paid on each commodity, but the hazards in the manu-
faduring of them, thofe of leakage, of bad cellars, and of
carelefs management, the frequent returns attended w ith many
lofTes, the wearing out of utenfils and efpecially of cafkf?,
which lafl article engrofles at leafl: one fifth of the brewer's
capital, the charges of fervants, horfcs, and carriages for the
delivery
1 7 B The Practice ^Brewing.
delivery of the drinks, the duties paid immediately to the go-
vernment without any fecurity for the reinburfement, at Icaft in
point of time, the large ftock and credit neceflary to carry on
this trade, and many other incidents hardly to be efli mated
with a fufficient accuracy, and never alike to every brewer.
In general it appears, that the expences of malt and hops ar^
feldom more than equal to the charge attending the manufac-
ture, or about half the value of the drinks. Hence this coii-
clufion, fenlibly felt by every honell: trader, mufl refult, that,
from change of circumftances, the reputation of the profits has
outlived the reality of them, and that a trade, perhaps the moil:
ufeful to the landed intereft and to the government, of any,
feems diltinguiflied from all, by greater hazards and lefs en-
couragement.
But, in a treatifc like this, where only the rules, upon
which true brewing is founded, are laid down, I would avoid
any thing, that might, though undefignedly, give handle to in-
vidious refledions, and ill-timed controvcrfies. I therefore
content myfelf, with letting down the latitudes of lengths gene-
rally allowed to drinks of every denomination.
•i-
Lengtlis
The Practice <?/ Brewing,
Lengths of common fmall beer.
4^ Barrels to 5 t
Lengths of keeping fmall beer.
4 T Barrels to 5 4-
Lengths of amber or pale ale.
C 4- Barrel to i ^
Lengths of brown flrong or porter.
2 ^ Barrels to 2 ^
Lengths of Burton ale.
1 Barrel to i -J-
179
from one quarter
of malt.
SECTION
'8a» Tlje Practice ^Brewing.
S E C T I O N VI.
METHOD o/CALCULATING the HEIGHT in
the COPPER at -which Worts are to go out.
^i^<^.ffl(HE expefted quantities or lengths of beer and ale can
^ T f only be found by determining what height of the
"o:"?^^^:0' copper the worts muft be at.
Brewers have feveral methods of exprefTing to what part they
would have the worts reduced by boiling. Brafs^ is the tech-
nical appellation for the upper rim of tlie copper ; it is a fixed
point, from which the eftimation generally takes place, either
by inches, or by the nails, which rivet the parts of the copper
together. Thefe lafl are not very equal, either in the breadth
of their heads, or their diflances from each other. Inches
then, though not fpecified on the copper, but determined by
the application of a gauge, on which they are marked, claim
the preference. The neceflity of Coppers being gauged, and
the contents of what they contain on every inch, both above
and below brafs, known, mult appear in a ftronger light, the
nearer we bring the art to exa6tnefs. The following tables
will flicw the mort ufeful manner, in which I conceive this
gauging fhould be fpecified.
Gaugej
The Practice o/*Brevving.
Ganges of coppers.
H
Great copper fet up
November 3
0. I
750.
Little
copper
fee
up
Auguf
k J-
«7JJ'
* B.
F.
G.
B.
F.
G.
17
-
-
15
3
4 Full
15
-
-
I I
2
7
16
-
-
15
2
I
14
-
-
II
I
5
15
-
-
15
0
5
13
-
-
II
0
3
J4
-
-
14
2
8
12
-
-
10
3
I
13
-
-
14
I
4
I I
-
-
ID
I
7
6
12
te
-
13
3
7
10
-
-
10
0
II
-
-
13
2
3
9
-
-
9
3
4
ID
-
-
13
0
6
02
8
-
-
9
2
2
8
6
^ 9
M 8
-
~
12
12
3
I
2
5
c3
i-t
cq
u
I
-
.
9
8
0
3
> 7
-
-
12
0
I
•0
>
0
J3
5
-
-
8
2
5
•
8 5
-
:
I I
II
2
0
4
8
_o
C4
U
u
4
3
-
-
8
8
I
0
1
1 0
= 4
-
-
ID
3
3
0
a,
0.
c
2
-
-
7
2
7 !
^ 3
2
_
•
10
I
7
c3
I
-
-
7
I
^ §:
_
-
ID
0
2
«
Brafs
-
7
0
5 c3
I
-
-
9
2
6
0
I
-
-
6
3
5 0
Brafs
-
9
I
I
0
2
-
-
6
2
5 3
I
.
-
8
3
8
c
3
-
-
6
I
s -0
2
m.
-
S
2
6
u
1.4
4
-
-
6
0
5 s
3
-
-
8
I
4
3
0
J2
5
-
-
5
3
5 S
•J
I 4
-
-
8
0
2
cq
6
-
-
5
2
5 u
-
-
7
2
8
%
7
-
-
5
I
5
1 6
-
-
7
I
6
8
-
-
5
0
S
5 7
-
-
7
0
4
en
9
-
-
4
3
4
ss 8
_
.
6
3
3
10
-
-
4
2
5
•i 0
^
_
6
2
2
^i^
II
-
-
4
I
6
18c
» B. ftands for barrels, F. for fiiklns, G. for gallons.
A a By
1 8 2 75^ Practice of B r e w i n g.
By the foregoing table, it is fcen that my great copper hoUs
nearly 9 barrels of water to biafs, and as the difference of the
volume between boiling worts of mofl denominations and cold
water, is nearly as 7 to 9, the quantity it will yield of boiling
woris will be but 7 barrels. The diameter of this copper juft
above brafs, is 68 inches, at a medium, and at that mean it
holds 1 2 gallons 7 pints of cold water or nearly 1 1 gallons of
boiling worts, upon an inch.
Hops macerated, by being twice boiled, take up for every 6
pound weight a volume, in the copper, equal to 4 gallons and
4 of water or a pin.
In a copper, the gauges of which have juft been fet down,
it is required to know, what number of inches a length of 24
barrels muft go cut at, with 1 5 pounds of hops, the guile of
beer to be brewed at 2 woris.
■X- ** •«•
^ ^■^ ^
24
Hi Practice (^/'Brewing. f S^
24 barrels, length of beer.
1 4 barrels, for two full brals.
10
34 numbers of gallons to a barrel accounted
by the excife, out of the bills of mortality
40
hops twice put in 15 lb. is 30
30
6 lb. [ 30
340
gallons of 22
5
boiling wort
equal to gallons 4 /-
upon an inch 11 [ 362
5 5!
33 inches above brafs, the 2 worts to go out
together.
When 3 worts are boiled, the amount of three full braf-
fes muft be deduced from the length ; and as the hops go
into the copper three times, they become more macerated, and
take up much lefs room. The proportion is then nearly of 1 8
pounds of hops for each 4 gallons 4..
Thus in coppers, which have never been tried or ufed, we
are able, by the gauges alone, to determine our lengths; but
as their circumferences are not always exadt, and the worts are
of ver)' different ffrengths, we fhould never negleft fuch tryals,
as may bring us nearer to accuracy and truth.
A a 2 SECTION
i 84 72>g Practice 0/ Brewing.
SECTION VIL,
0/ B O I L I N G.
«^@.^ T has been a quellion, whether boiline: is necef-
;^ ■ T ■ i' fary to a wort ; but as hops are of fo refinous a
jLii- •?': Jw' quality, that the whole of their virtues is not
<^@>^ yielded by extradtion, decodtion or boiling is as
needful as the plant itfelf, and is, together with fermentation,
produ6live of that uniformity of tafte in the compound, wliich
conftitutes good beer.
Worts are compofed of oils , falts , water , and perhaps
fome fmall portion of earth, from both the malt and hops. Oils-
are capable of receiving a degree of heat much fuperior to
falts, and thefe again furpafs in this refped the power of water.
Before a wort can be fuppofed to have received the whole of
the fire it can admit of, fuch a degree of heat muft arife, as
will be in a proportion to the quantity of the oils, the falts and
the water. When this ha2)pens, the wort may be faid to be
intimately mixed, and to have but one tafle. The fire, made
fiercer, would not increafe the heat, or more cxaftly blend
together the conflituent parts ; this purpofe once obtained, the
boiling of the worts is completed.
It follows from thence, that fome worts will boil fooner than
others, receive their heat in a Icfs time, and be faturated with lefs
fire ; but, as it is impoffible and indeed unneceflary to eftimate
exactly
7le Practiceo/'Brewing. 185
exactly the quantities of oils, falts and water contained in each
different wort, it is out of our power to fix, for any one, the de-
gree of heat it is capable of. This renders the thermometer in this
cafe ufelefs, and obliges us to depend entirely on experiment,
and to obferve the figns, which accompany the aft of ebullition.
Fire, as before has been mentioned, when adling upon
bodies, endeavours to make its way through them in right
lines. A wort fet to boil, makes a reliftance to the effort of
fire, ir» proportion to the different parts it is compofed of. The
watery particles are, it is imagined, the firfl, which are fatu-
rated with fire, and, becoming lighter in this manner, endea-
vour to rife above the whole. The falts are next, and lafl
of all the oils. From this ftruggle, proceeds the noife heard,
when the worts iirft boil, which proves how violently they
are agitated, before the different principles are blent one with
an other. While this vehement ebullition lafls, we may be
fure that the worts are not intimately mixed, but when the
fire has penetrated and united the different parts, the noice
abates, the worts boil fmoother, the fleam, inffead of clouding
pvomifcuoufly as it did at firft round the top of the copper,
rifes more upriglit, in confequence of the fire pafTing freely in
diredl lines through the drink, and when the fiercenefs of the
fire drives any part of the drink from the body of the wort,
the part fo feparated afcends perpendicularly. Such are the
ligns, by which we may be fatisfied that the firft wort, or
the llrongefl part of the cxtrads, has been fo affeded by the fire
as to become nearly of one taflc. If, at this time, it is turned
out
i86 77je 1^ R A CT 1 CE ^Brewing.
out of the copper, it appears pellucid, and forms no confidcr-
able fediment.
The proper time, for the boiling of the worts, has hitherto
been determined, without any regard to thefe circumftances ;
hence the variety of opinions, on this fubjedt, greater perhaps
than on any other part of the procefs. While fome brewers
would confine boiling to fo fhort a fpace as five minutes, there
are others, who believe two hours abfolutely requifite. The
firfl allcdge, that the flrength of the wort is loft by long boil-
ing ; but this argument will not hold good againft the expe-
riment of boiling worts in a ftill, and examining the colleded
fleam, which appears little elfe than mere water. Thofe, who
continue boiling the iirft wort a long time, do it in order to
be fatisfied, that the lire has had its due cfFed, and that the
hops have yielded the whole of their virtue. They judge of
this, by the worts curdling, and throwing out flakes like fnow.
If a quantity of this fediment is colleded, it will be found to
the tafte both fvveet and bitter, and if boiled again in water,
the decodion, when cold, will ferment and yield a vinous li-
quor. Thefe flakes, therefore, contain part of the ftrength
of the wort; they confift of the firftand choiceft principles of
the malt and hops, and by their fubfiding, become of little or
no ufe.
It appears from thefe circumflanccs, that boiling a firft wort
too fliort or too long a time is equally detrimental, that diffe-
rent worts require diiTerent times, and that thefe limes can only
be fixed by obfervation.
The
T%z Practice (t/Bre WING. 187
The firfl: wort having received, by the afliftance of the fire,
a fufficient proportion of bitter from the hops, is feparated
therefrom. The hops being deprived of their virtues, are, on
the other hand, inriched with fome of the ghitinous particles
of the malt. They are afterwards a fecond and fometimes a
third time boiled with the following extradions, and thereby
divefted, not only of what they had thus obtained, but alfo of
the remaining part of their prefcrvative qualities. The thin-
nefs and fluidity of thefe iaft worts render them extremely pro-
per for this purpole. Their heat is never fo intenfe as that of
the firft wort when boiling ; becaufc they confift of fewer oils
and are incapable of receiving fo great a degree of heat. This
deficiency can only be made up by doubling or tripling the
fpace of time the firft wort boiled, fo that what is wanted in
the intenfenefs of the heat be fupplied by its continuance.
The following table is conftmdled from obfervations made
according to the foregoing rules.
A Table
X.88
7%e Practice ^Brewing.
•»« M'"w ■■*.^ i^» tu* »]» »^» * <^ -^ *r *? *? ^ *r 1!* •!* *r "j* f* **»*»•<« vj**^*
A Table fliewing the time each wort requires to
boil for the feveral forts of beer, in every feafon.
Brown beer, keeping
pale ftrong
Small beer.
^■'
and keeping fmall beer.
•»
r
hours hours hours.
hours
hours hours.
35°
- I -
2 - 4
■r
I - 2
.S
40
- I -
2 - 4
t
I - 2
s
45
- I -
2 - 4
t
I - 2
o
50
- I -
2 - 4
c
T
1-2
55
- I -
2 - 4
n -
3
60
- 2 -
4 - 0
li -
3
I wort s wort • 3 wort
I wort
1 wort 3 woit.
imber
hours
1
3
T
Burton
after I fmall after
amber I amber
h.ours I liours
hours.
2
2
2
2
2
2
It may, perhaps, be objedled, that, by a long boiling of the
laft worts, the rough and auftere part of the hops may be ex-
traded, and give a difagreeable tafte to the liquor; but let it
be obferved, that, this only happens, either in beers long to be
kept, or in fuch as are brewed m very hot weather. In the
lirft cafe, the roughnefs wears of by age, and grows into
ftrength, and in the lart, it is a check to the pronefs mufls have
in fuch feafons to ferment. .
* When there arc but two worts in
brown ftrong, keeping ftrong, keep-
ing pale &n%U, or common fmall, the
boiling is to be obferved as marked for
the fecond and third worts.
One
^e Practice^Brewino." 'i8^
One obfervation more is nccefTary under this head ; moft cop-
pers, efpecially fuch which are made In London, and fet by ,
proper workmen, wafte or fleam away, by boiling, about
three or four inches of the contained liquor, in each hour.
The quantity wafted being found on trj'al , and knowing
how much water the copper holds upon an inch, the quantity
loft by boiling in each brewing may eaiily be eftimated.
X
Bb SECTION
1 90 -l^he PVac't Ice d/* B r b w fV g?
SECTION VIII.
_ Of ibe QIJ AN TIT Y of WATER 'wapJ; and of de
application of the preceding rules to iiao different
prccejjes of brewijjg,
-^•J^#4?^-«- A S T E water, hi brewing, is termed that, which,
% -f Ti/^^ ^ thouo-h of fervice in the procefs, yet does not re-
k ;£(~°-,<s; % main in the beers or ales when made. Under that
-a-l!s^^'^ 5^;- head is comprehended tlie water fteemed away in
the boiling of the worts ; that which is loft by heating for the
cxtrads ; that which the utencils imbibe when dry ; that which
ncceffarily remains in the pumps and underbade ; and more
than all the water which is retained in the grift. The fixing
to aminute exadnefs how much isthus expended, is both impof-
fible and unneceffary. Every one of the articles juft now
mentioned varies in- proportion to the grift, to the lengths jj
made, to the conftruflion and order of the utencils, and to the ■■
time employed in making the beer. To thefe different caufes "
of the fteam being lefTened or increafed, might moreover be
added every change in the atmofphere. However, as, upon
the whole, the quantity of water loft varies from no reafon fo
much as from tlic age and drynefs of the malt, experience is in
this cafe, our fole and fureft guide. I have, in the follow-
ing table, placed under every mode of brewing, how much I
have found neceffary to allow for this wafte.
Brown
J
7'h& Practice o/" Brew inc. igi
Brown ftrong and pale ftrong beers.
Barrels pins.
For old malts allow •^-.---- ij? per quarter
For new * malts -,^-'---- 20 per quartc
fll cii -^ ^ ,
Keeping fmall and common fmall beers.
For either ne^v or old malt allow - - 24 fer quarter
Amber or pale ales.
For either new or old malt allow - - 14 per qnartcr
Keeping fmall or common fmall after amber.
Allow for wafte. ------- 02 per quarter
It is now time to begin ,the account of two brewings, which
admit of the greateft variety, both in themfelves, and in the
feafon of the year. The fame procefles will be carried on,
in the fequel of this work, until they be completed.
On the I oth of July a brewmg for common feiall beer Is to
be made with 6 quarters of malt.
• By new malt, I underftand fuch, Iiaving laid more than a fufficient
-ms has not loft the whole of the heat time to be thoroughly unprefled there-
received on the kiln, and by old fuch, with,
as is of equal heat with the air, by
B b 2 By
Tigz V!he Practice ^Brewing.
B\' page 1 2 7 the medium heat of tlie air at 7 . ,
■^ r t,^ J c ^Q degree*
this time is ___----- 3
By page 144 the malt 10 be be ufed for this .
piirpofe fliould be in drynefs at. - - f >5 ^
lis 1
By page 172 the proper quantity of new hops is 6 pounds /^r
quarter. The length, according to the excife gauge without
the bills of mortality, may be rated at 5 barrels 4- per quarter,
or from the whole grift: at 30 barrels ^.
By page 183, the inches required In the copper, to bring
out this length, at 2 worts, will be, for coppers as gauged page
i8i, 56 inches in the 2 worts above brafs.
The ftate of this part of the brewing is therefore ;
Six quarters of malt dried to 130 degrees, 36 pounds of hopg
fcr 30 barrels % to go out 3156 inches above brafs.
30^
Length
1
r Boiling by page i %%
< I wort I hour 4 or 5 inches
5t
(_ 2 wort 3 hours or 9 inches
15
wafte water page 191
51 barrels; whole quantity of water
to be ufed.
And by page 153 we find the heat of the firft extra(5l to be
151 degrees, and the heat of tlie lafl 183 degrees.
The
*The Practice <?/ Brewing. ig^
The other brewing, of which I purpofe to lay down the pro-
cefs in this treatife, is one for brown beer or porter of 1 1 quarters
of malt, to be brewed on the 20th of February.
By pngc 12 7 the medium heat of the air at 1 ,
... 7 > 40 degrees
this time is-------- 3
By page 1 55 the malt for this purpofe fhould beat ^ 138 degrees
By page 171 the quantity of hops is i 2 pounds ^^r quarter.
The length I would fix for this liquor, according to the cxcife
gauge without the bills of mortality, is 2 barrels and 4 pins
from a quarter, or from the whole grift 27 barrels 4-.
By page 183 the inches required, in a copper, fuch as I
have fpecified page 181, to bring out this length at 3 worts,
are 29 above brafs.
The ftate of this brewing, fo far as we have confidered it, is
therefore 11 quarters malt dried to 138 degrees, 132 pounds
of hops for 27 barrels ^ to go out at 29 inches above brafs,
274- barrels the length
boiling by page i88
1 wort I hour or 4 inches
2 wort 2 hours or 6 inches
8 4^ *" 3 wort 4 hours or 1 2 inches
1 8 w^afte water page 191 old malt
I \fer quarter
54 barrels, whole quantity of water to
be ufed
And by p-ige 1 57 we find the heat of the firft extrafl to be
144 degrees, and the heat of the laft extract 1 62.
SECTION
\
194- '^^^ P R A t T 1 C E <?/" B R E W I N G.
SECTION IX.
Of the DIVISION of th W ATE?, for th r fpeBhe
V\' O R T S, <ind MASHES, end of that of the heat ade-
quate to each of tbefe.
«.^«^K HAT the whole quantity of w'ater, as well as tjiat: of
^ T Ij l^eat, required in any brewing, ought not to be ap-f
^^ « plJed at once to the grift, is obvious, both Iron?
reafon, and from the example of nature, who, m
forming the juice of the grape, divides the procefs, and in*
creafing fucceffively botli the moifture and the heat, gives
time to ea'-h degree to have its complete effed. A dnilion of
the w::ter and heat applied to the grift is equally ne,cetlavy, but
previous to this divilion the following genera} rules may be
laid down.
The grift is, if poftlble, at no time, to be left with iefs
water than what will cover the malt, and put all its parts in
adlion. In the firft mafhec for ftrong bc;er, an allowance is to
be made for as much water as the grift will imbibe ; and laftly
the whole quantity of water, ufed in brewing, fliould be divid-
ed, according to fome proportion analogous to that of the de-
grees of heat.
Procefles for brewing are carried on, either with one cop-
per, or with two. Though the firft of thefc methods is al-
moft
'The Practice<?/"Brewing. 195
moft out of ufe, it may be neceflary to give an example or two
of the divifion of the water ufed in this cz.iQ.
s\
in brewing with one copper, fcarcely more than three maflies
can be made ; otherwife the time taken up in boiling the worts
and preparing the fubfequent waters for extradion would be fo
long, as to caufe the grifl to lofe great part of its heat, and
perhaps become four. The whole water required might na-
tyrally be divided into three qqual parts, was it not for the
quantity imbibed in the iirft mafli ; but, as in this way of
brewing, the beft m.anagement is to make the firft wort of one
fnalli aindthe fecond wort of the other two, it will be found ne-
chKhry to allow, for the firfl cxlrafting water, four parts out of
feven of the whole quantify required, and to divide the re-
mainder equally for the other two maflies. Thus if the whole
qttantityof water required was 51 barrels, the lengths of th»
cxtrafting waters would be as follows ;
I Liquor 2 liquor 3 liquor.
29 ■ ■'"■ ' • 1 1 ■ II barrels,
1 Wort * " ' .^ . - 1., m^^
2 Wert.
The water imbibed and retained by the malt is allowed for
in this conputation, which will be found juft to every purpofe,
£or fmall beer brewed in one copper only.
■' But in ftrong beers and ales, with tliree maflies, whether
-brewed at one, two or three worts, the cafe will be fomewhat
-different, as care fhould always be taken to refcrvc for every
•:. . niafli
196 Tie Pr A C T I CE 0/ B R E VV I N G.
mall\ a fuflkient quantity of water to apply to the grift. For
this rcafon, no greater proportion ought to be nfed in the firft
mafh than that of three parts out of feven, as the volume of the
malt is in a greater proportion to the quantity of water than in
the preceding cafe. If, therefore, the whole quantity of
water ufed was "^^^ barrels, the length of the liquors would be;
I Liquor
J5 -
1 liquor
ro
3 liquor.
— JO barrels.
In general employing only one copper, is allowed to be bad
management, as, in fome part or other, however the procefs
is well contr'ved, the bufinefs muft ftand flill, and confequent-
ly the extrads be injured by the air, continually affecling them.
The beft and moft ufual pradice is, on this account, to brew
with two coppers. Other rules are here necefiary to be ob-
ferved, and 1 fl\all be more particular in the explanation of
them.
When a brewing is to be boiled off in one entire wort, as in
fine ales, no other divifion of the quantity of water ufed is re-
quired than into two equal parts ; but, when beers are intended
to be made, as they commonly are, at two worts, the water
mufl: firfl: be proportioned to thefe, and each of the parts be
eqnally divided for the feveral mafhes, which are to form the
worts. Experience has fhewn, that four fevenths of the whole
■water fhould be applied to the firft wort, and the remainder
three fevenths to the fecond. This will conftantly be found
to anfwer our purpofe, and ought alfo to dired us in the divi-
fion
I'he P R A c T I c E (t/ B R e W I N G. 197
fion of the exfracfting heat. Thus, if, as in the beforemen-
tioned guile of fmall beer (page 192,) 51 barrels be the whole
quantity of water ufed,
4
7 [ 204
29 barrels will be the length of the
fir A: wort, and 22 barrels that of the fecond.
The laft extrafling heat for this procefs being - 1 S3 degrees
and the firft -------____ 151 degrees
their difference - - - 32 degrees
muft be proportioned in the fame manner - - 4
7 [j28
I S degrees
therefore ought to be added to the heat of the firfl: wort, and 1 4
desrrecs the remainder of the difference is to be added to the heat
of the laft. As both the water for the maflies ahd the increafed
heat are to be equally divided, the length and heat of each ex-
tract will be as follows :
Heat 151° 169' 176* 183'
*lengthi4Y 144- 11 11
liquor I 234
y y — i«J <^. ^ »
1 wort 2 wort.
• By giving to the firft wort, one ]y that the juftnefs of the procefs depends
ff venth pa: c more of the water than to fo is It right to add four fevcnths of th;
the laft wort, a proj^er allowance is he.it to the fsconJ niafh the firft extraft
made for what is iir.bibed by the malt being fi'xd on j'rlpicii'Ics before recited.
uled as it is on nuality of the extca^t on-
C c This
1 9S TTte Practice 0/ B r e w i n g.
This rule conftantly takes place, when there are but two wortf
either of llrong or of fmall beer ; but if the benefit of the drink,
or the fmallnefs of the utencils, obliges us to carry on the procefs
with three worts, thefe proportions muft neceffarily be altered,
and the following have in that cafe been found moft advantageous.
The firft and fecond wort ought to have two thirds of the
water ; the firft wort two thirds of tlals quantity, the fecond the
remainder of this, and the third wort one third part of the
whole.
Porter or brown beer is the- fort of drink; in which this dlvi-
lion is mofl commonly obferved. Let the whole quantity cf
water to be ufed be that of the brewing, of which the elements
have been laid down, Cpagc 193,) or 54 barrels.
54
2
3 [ 108
3^
2
3 [ 72
24 barrels of water for the firft wort
12 barrels for the fecond wort
>■ . . - — '
1 S barrels for the third wort.
i4
I'le Practice <?/" Brewing, 199
The laft extrading degree for this drink is 1 62
the firft -----_«__-i44
iStheirdiiFcrencc
3 [ 3^
12
2
3 L 24
8 degrees to be
added to the
firft extraft-
ing heatj to
make up that
of the fe-
cond mafh.
4 degrees for the
fecond wort.
6 degrees for the
— — third wort.
18
A grift of II quarters of malt is too large, to admit of the
water allowed for the firft wort to be equally divided between
the firft and fecond mafti, and the extraction could not proper-
ly be formed, if the firft heat of 1 44 degrees was not allowed
to take place ; therefore, rather than ufe the whole 24 barrels
C c 2 i»
2C0 Tloe Practice (?/"Brewing.
in one mafh, with the additional 8 degrees of heat, a fuffi-
cient quantity only mull be. applied to the firft mafh, both fo
work it and to get as much of the extract to come down as will
fave the bottom of the copper, it is to be pumped into. By this
management, there will be enough left to form the fecond
cxtrad: with, or what by tlie brewers is termed the piece liquor.
The exad quantity of water the firft maili Ihould have, might
be referred to the following fe6Vion, but the order we have
laid down will excufe our anticipating thereon.
It has been found, and will hereafter be pruved, that a vo-
lume of 1 1 quarters of malt, dried to 138 degrees, is equal to
6y, II barrels of liquid, that malt will require twice its volume
of water to wet it, and that this quantity is retained after evciy
tap is fpent.
^11
the Practice 0/ Brewing. 201
6, 1 1 Barrels, volume of the 1 1 quarters of malt
3
18,33
6,1 1
12,22 barrels of water imbibed by the grift
24,30 whole quantity of water allowed for the firft wort
3 [ 11,78 extradl, which will be yielded from the firft and fe-
3,92 cond mafti length of the firft piece, which is fufti-
• cient to favc tlie copper
3'92
12,22 quantity imbibed as above
16,14 quantity of water for the firft mafli
7,S6 quantity of water for the fecond mafli.
24,00
The feveral lengths of the water for each mafh, and the
heats proportioned to them will confequently be as follows :
heat 144.°
length 16*
8
156^
12
159°
9
162*
9
liquor i
2
3
4
5
I wort ^ wort 3 wort.
Thus having fliewn how to alcertain the quantities of the
mult, the hops, the water and the heat to be ufed, and to
• Here, and in many other places, fmall fraiHions have been negleded.
propor-
201 7%S' F'k A C'T I C E d/ B R E W I N G»
proportion them to each ortier,- ks the good or bad properties of
beers arifc, from the extrads, and fire is the governing agent,
we mufl now feek the means to adminifter the right portion of
heat, and fo to temper the water that is to foim the extrafts, as
not to be difappointed of our intentions. In the calculations mad^
for this pnrpofe, not only the water in the copper, but the
value and effcd of the grift, as to heat and cold, mjift be con-
fidered. The propf of our fyc^efs. pan be a£certaiaed:by no
other means, tl^an by obfervations m9:de with the thermometer
placed in the extradl, in the neareft part it is to, and .as it comes
from, the malt, viz, at the cock fixed in the mafh tun, to con-
vey the liquor to the underback, in order to its being pbmp-
ed up into the copiper, and tljere joined to the hops."^ 7~
•Ji; ** ■«•
M
\)i ibv-TiA
SECTION
y^^' pR A c ri CE o/" Brewing. 203
#<?^
■iS^ST'Zr^^
SECTION X.
jiin enquiry into the Volume e/"M ALT, in order to reduce the
G R I S T ./o a common meafure.
^L^^P^ H E jrallon , by which malt is meafnred , is
• T X^ exadly of the fame capacity with that, which is.
•j^ 35 ^ ^j- ufed for beer or water. The quarter of malt con-
'^^^^ tains 64 gallons of this meafure, and the barrel,
within the bills of mortality, according to the gauges ufed by
the cxcife, contains 3,6 gallons, but without the bills, 34 ;.*
though the firft quantity is the meafure foi" fale throughout the
kingdom. Hence it would appear, that proportioning the grain
to the barrel of water would be no difficult undertaking. This
however is fo far from being the cafe, that, after having made
ufc of fcveral calculations to help us to tlie true proportions, we
fliall find, that they want the corroborating proofs of adual ex-
perience, before they can be intirely depended upon.
The ultimate parts of water are fo ver>' fmall, as to make this,
as well as all other liquids, ap])ear to the eye one continued
uniform body, without any interilices. This cannot be /aid of
malt laying together^ citiier whole, pr ground ^ therq are? num-
bers of vacancies between the corns, when whole, and between*
the particles vvlieni ground, fo that the 'real volume dcctjpfed
by any quantity of malt is properly no more, then the fpacc
^vhieh
!04 ^^ P R A C T I C E: ^ B R E W I N G^
lyhich would be occupied by every individual corn, either
whole or cut afundcr, were they clofely joined together.
To determine the quantity of cold water to be added to that,
which is brought to the boiling point, (an adt by the brewers
called cooling /'«,) it is aieceflary to know, what proportion a
quarter of nialt bears to the meafure of a barrel of water. Se-
veral operations will be .found requifite to come to this know-
ledge ; viz. to take feveral gauges of different brewings ,
more cfpecially in the firft part of the procefs ; to be well
acquainted with the degree of dryncfs of the malt ufed, the
heat of the firft extradl, and .the quantity of liquor the mafli tun
holds upon every inch ; to find out what degrees of expan-
lion are produced by the different degrees of heat in the firfl
mafli, how much lefs water the mafli tun holds upon an incli
wJien hot, than it does ^vhen cold , Avhat quantity of water is
lofl: by evaporation, and in what proportion at the feveral
terms of the procefs. In order to put this in practice, the
gauges of the following brewing' were taken.
5 quarters of malt dried to 125 degrees.
B.* F. G.
The quantitv of water ufcd for the firfl mafli was 1223
The mafli and ^vater g-auered t02;ether in the 7 • 1
, » ° ^^ ^25, 00 inches
mafli tun juft before the tap was fet. - J
* B. (lands for barrels, F. for fir- Ions arc here allowed to the barrel, in
kins, G. for gallons, and the num- compliance to the cxcife gauging, as
hers pad the comma, where the inches thefc calculations were made without
arc exprefied, for decimals ; 34 gal- the bills.
Allow-
'TIjs Practice 0/ B r e vv i ^F g. 205
Allowance for the fpace under the falfe bottom boards of the
mafh tun, as near as could be computed - o, 66 inches
The goods gauged in the malli tun, after the firflrf _ -nche*
tap was fpent. ___----- t
B. F. G.
Firil: piece gauged in the copper - - - - B o i
B. F. G.
The water employed for the fecond mafh was 1223
The grift gauged with this water juft before ) ^^^ 52 inches
the tap was fet ------- \
And juft after 1 he tap was fpent - - - - ij, 63 inches
B, F. G.
The firft wort confifting of thefe two pieces ? , , ^
gauged in the copper- - - - -3
, - . - - . B F. G.
The water ufed for the third mafh was - - S 3 6
Juft before the tap was fet the grift with this 7 ^^ . .
gauged in the mafh tyn - -. -_ - j
And juft after the tap was fpent - -,- - 15, 20 inche?
B. F. G.
T*hc water ufed for the fourth mafh was - - 836
The mafli gauged juft before the tap was fet 24, 60 inches
And juft after the tap was fpent - - - - 15, 1 6 inches
The heat of the firft extract was 136 degrees, to which ad-
ding two degrees, for what is loft by the tap fpending, the true
heat of the mafh is 138 degrees.
D d The
2o6 *The Practice of Brewing.
The firft extrad, before it is blended with hops, may be
eftiniated to be nearly equally flrong with a lirft wort of com-
mfjn fmall beer. This, Avhen under a flrong ebullition, raifed
the thermometer to 2 1 6 degrees, and feven barrels of fuch a
wort, when boiling, occupied an equal fpace with nine barrels
of cold water, at theTiiean temperature of 60 degrees. Now,
if the degrees of expanfion follow the proportion of thofe of
heat, the following table conflruded upon tliis fuppofition will
fhew how many barrels of cold water would be neceflary to oc-
cupy the fame fpace with i^y^xi barrels of wort of different
heat.
Degrees of heat
barrels of cold '
ivater
barre
lis of wort.
216
-
- _ _
9,00
- _ -
-
7
206
-
- - -
8,87
_ - -
-
7
196
-
> _ _
8,75
_ - -
-
7
186
-
- - _
8,62
_ - -
-
7
IJ-J
-
- - -
8,50
- - -
-
7
167
-
- _ -
8,37
- - -
-
7
158
-
- . -
8,25
_ 'iri-a
-
7
148
_ - _ ■■ - ~
8,12
_ '-" ■.
-
7
138
'-
_ . _
8,00
— — ^
-
7
127
-
_ - _
7.87
- _ -
-
7
119
-
- _ -
7'75
_ _ _
-
7
The quantity of water evaporated in a brewing is more con-
liderablc than it is generally apprehended to be ; after repeated
trials, I have found that what was loft in this manner amount-
ed nearly to one fifth.
Nov?
Tbe Practice 0/ Brew inc. 207
Now fiiice the heat of the f.rft tap was 138 degrees, and
my mafli tun holds 20, 25 gallons upon an inch, the follow-
ing pioportion may be deduced from the preceding table.
If S 7 20, 5
7,00
■ ■ ^
8, CO [ 14175.00
17,71 gallons, and this is
tlie true quantity contained in one inch, at a heat of 138 degrees.
B. F. G.
Tlie quantity of water ufed for the firfl: mafh was 12 2 3,
or 428 gallons, of which one fifth is fuppofed to be fteamed
away, when the firft liquor is gone through the whole procefs
of the extraftion : but as the gauges of the malt and water to-
gether are taken before the tap is fet, the whole evaporation
ousht not to be deduced, and one fixth feems to be a fuflicient
allowance on this account. We may therefore fuppofe 357
gallons to be in the mafh tun at the time of gauging, which
number being divided by 17,71 will fhcw how many inches
are taken up by the water at that heat,
I7>7^ [ 357'^°oo [ 20,15-
3542
2800
1771
10290
8S55
1435
D d 2 Tlie
The Pr A C T I CE e?/" B R E W I N G.
The mafh ganged juft before the tap was fet 25, 00 inches
Allowed for the fpacc under falfe bottoms - o, 66
DeduCl the inches taken up by the water -
2 5> 66
20, 15
Remainder for the five quarters of malt, - - 5> 51 inches
or i,ro inch for one quarter. This number being multiplied
by 17,71 the quantity of gallons contained upon one inch at
tliis heat, will give for 19,48 gallons one quarter of this malt.
There now remains nothing but to bring a barrel of water of
34 gallons under like circumflances, as to expanfion and evapo-
ration, with thele 19,48 gallons, with this difference only that,
as the proportion required is at the time the water and malt
firft come in contadi, and not after the malh has been worked,
a lefs allowance for fleaming will be fufficient, and may well be
fixed at one feventh.
If 7,00
■■
■ *M
— 8,00 ■
34
3200
-34
,00
2400
7
-
272,00
38,«5
loft
by
fteam
33,30 the barrel of water r(*duc-
ed; and as 19,48 gallons, under the fame circumftances, were
found
^n^e P R A C T I C E (T/" B Jl E W I N G. SOQ
found equal to one quarter of malt, the follov\ ing divifion will
Ihew the proportion between them.
1948
13820
13636
Thus in malt dried to 125 degrees, the quantity of 1,70
quarters is required to make a volume equal to 34 gallons or
a barrel of water according to the cxcife gauging without the
bills of mortality.
The more the malt has been dried, the larger the interftices are
between its parts ; the quantity of water it admits will confe-
quently be greater than what is abforbed by fuch as is lefs dry.
More of this laft malt will be neceflary to make a volume,
equal to that of the barrel of water ; and every different degree
of drynefs muft caufe a variety in this refpedt. It wdll therefore
be proper (o repeat the operation with a high dried grift.
Gauges of a brewing of 8 quarters of malt dried to 140 degrees.
B. F. G.
The water ufed for the firft mafli - - - - 1 1 2 4
Malt and water gauged together in the mafh 7 ^ ^ inches
jnft before the tap was fet - - - - 3
Allowed
110 7%e Practice of Brewing."
Allowed for the fpace under the falfe bottom } it / • i
'■ S- o, 66 inclies
of the mafli tun ------ 3
Goods franked in the mafh tun after the firft } / • i „
^ '^ S. 22, 36 inches
tap was fpent ------- 3
B. F. G.
Firil: piece gauged in the copper - - - - 500
- - ' B. F. G,
The water for the fecond marti was - - - 1124
The mafh gauged juft before the tap was fet - 35, 70 inches
Juft after the tap was fpent -- - - - 22, 19 inches
B. F. G.
The wort made- of thefe twoprcces gaiiged in ? j„ ^ ^
the copper
;■■ -• 1.— 1 •- B. F. G^
The water ufed for the third maflv was-, - — 836 ;
The mafh gauged juft before the tap. was fet 31,, 10 incheS;
And juft after the tap was fjxMit ;'-:.- - - 2i, 77 inches;
* ' .III III!
B. F. G.
The water ufed for the -fourth ma% was, -. 83 6^.^^ ^,j
The mafli gauged juft before the tap was fet 30, 50 inches
And juft after the tap was fpent - -- '-> a'^iv 2I-, 60 inches
''"' . . The
755^ Pr AC T IC E e/" B RE W I N G, 211'
The heat of the firft extradt was 1 42 degrees. Now by the
table of expanfions (page 206.)
If 8,05 —.7,00- 20,25
- ■ 700
8,05 [ 1417500] 17,60 will be the
895 . real quantity of
— — .-- water upon an
61 ^'5" • inch in the mafh
56^35- ' tun, when heated
■ ___-i::i to 142 degrees.
' 4900
B. F; G.
Quantity of water in the firft mafh • 1 1 • 2 "4
34
.,1^ .. ' 44 ■
4
r:u] fW^^'t
395
Deduction for the icvaporation at this 65, 83
period, one fixth -■■
329, 17 true quantity
of the water for the firft mafti, which muft be divided by
io loJ-i&rjfi enc o] :)n:!jIov ni I/srjp ■ ^^^r
U
2 1 2 The Practice c/" Brewing.
the real quantity of water . cont-ained upon an inch hi tJie
mafli tun.
iy,6o [ 329,1700 ] 18,70 inches taken up in the
1760 mafli tun by the water ufed in
^— the iirft mafh.
14080
12370
12320
500
The mafh gauged juft before the tap was fet 26, 25 inches
A Ho wed for the fpacc under the falfe bottoms o, 66
26, 91
Inches taken up by the water of the iiril mafh 1 8i 70
Space occupied by thefe'8 quarters of malt 8 [ 8, 21 inches of
■ mafh tua
Space occupied by orie quarter - - - r, 02
17, 60
61 20
I0 2''=''- -'iu ,-:.'i--:;jq
17,9520 gallons of
water, equal in volume to one quarter of this malt.
If
the Practice^BrewingJ aij
If 7,00 S,o5- 34
34
3220
2415
7.00 [ ^-ll'l'^
39,10 cxpanfion of the barrel of wa-
ter, out of which the feventh 5,58 is to be dedudted for evapo-
. ration,
remains 33,52 for the barrel of water reduced,
which the quarter of malt or 17,95 is to be compared to.
17,95 j 33,5200 [ 1,86 quantity of malt dried to
1795 1 40 degrees, equal to one barrel
' of water
^5570
14360
I 2 100
10770
1330
Having thus found the volume of the malt, at two diftant tefms
of drynefs, we might divide the intermediate degrees in the fame
manner as we have done before, could the certainty of thefe cal-
culations be intirely depended upon ; but as fome allowances
have been made without immediate proof, how near foevcr truth
t!.e refult thereof may from experiments appear, it will be
E e worth
214 2^^ Practice <3/*Brewing.
worth while to point ovrt what is -wanting to make our fup-
pofitions quite fatisfa(^ory.
Some part of the calculation depends on the quantity of the
evaporation ; this, in the fame fpace of time, may be more or
lefs, as the fire under the water is brifk or flow, or as the weight
of the atmofphere differs. The gauges are taken at the time
the malt and. water are in contact , and more or lefs water
may be imbibed in proportion, both of the dr^-nefs and age
of die malt ; water as a fluid, malt as a porous folid body,
mufl: differ in their expanfion, hut in what proportion is to me
unlcnown; effervefcence may be another caufe of want of
exa(5tnefs ; the different cut 'the malt has had in the mill, its
being or not being truly prepared, the difference laftly in the
time of the mafliing or ftanding of the grill, prevent our rely-
ing wholly upon the calculation. It is however not improbable
that fome of thefe incidents corred one another. Since i , 70
quarters of malt dried to 1 25 degrees are equal to one barrel of
water, and i, 86 quarters of malt dried to 140 have the fame
volume, the difference being but 1 6 parts out of hundred, the
whole of the error cannot be very great, and one quarter fix
bufliels of malt may, at a medium, be eftimated of the fame
volume with one barrel of water. However, as experience is
the furell guide, I have, from a very great number of different
•brewings, coUeded the following proportions, and repeatedly
found them to be true. I have added, in the table, the weight
malt ought to have, at every degree of drynefs.
A Tabls
7^e P R A c T 1 c E ^ B R B wi N e; 2t^
A Table of the feveral quantities of malt differently
dried, which are equal to the volume of one bar-
rel of water, according to the excife gauge, with-
out the bills of mortality.
Degrees
weij
jhc In pounds
volume Of grain.
Barley
80 -
-
-
-
376 -
-
-
-
1,56
100 -
-
-
^
306 -
-
-
-
1,62
105 -
-
-
-
301 -
-
-
-
1,62
no -
-
^
-
296 -
-
-
-
1,65
115 -
-
-
*
291
-
m
-
1,67
Malt
119 -
-
-
-
2S6 -
-
-
-
1,68
124 -
-
-
-
281 -
-
-
-
hl^
129 -
-
-
-
276 -
-
-
-
1,74
134 -
-
-
-
271- -
-
-
-
1.77
138-
-
-
-
266 -
•^
-
-
1, 8a
H3 ■
*•
-
-
261 -
-
-
-
1,83
148 -
-
-
-
256 -
-
-
-
1,86
152 ^
-
-
-
251 -
-
-
-
i>89
157 -
-
fc
-
246 -
-
~
-
1,92
162 -
-
-
-
241 -
-
-
-
1.95
167 -
-
-
-
2^6 -
-
0y
-
1,98
171 -
-
M
^31 -
-
-
-
2,01
176,
-
-
226 -
-
-
-
2,04
E e a Witb
^ i6 77)^ Practice (?/ B r e w i n g.
With a table thus conftrudled, it is very eafy to reduce every
grift to an equal volume of water. Suppofe thofe of the brewings
we have already mentioned ; that of the fmall beer conlifts of
6 quarters of malt dried to 13c degrees, the proportion of
which in the table is as 1,75 to i.
quarter of malt
If 1,75 —
barrel of v/ater
X
malt
-6-
water.
■3^42
Thefe fix quarters of malt occupy therefore an equal volume
with 3,42 barrels of water. The brown beer grift is of ii
quarters dried to 138 degrees; the proportion of this in the
table is as 1,80 to i.
maTt
If 1,80
wdter
— I '
niaft
-II
water.
- 6,1 1
The volume of thefe 1 1 quarters of malt is therefore the
fame with that of 6, 1 1 barrels of water, and the whole being
brought to the fame denomination, we are enabled to find the
heat of the firft mafh ; but the effervefcenre occafioned by
the union of the malt and water muft prevent this calcula-
tion being ftridly true, the conlideration of which Ihall take
place hereafter.
The circumftances are different in the other mafhes ; the
water ufed in tliefe meets a grift already faturated, and the
volume is increafed beyond the quantity found for dry malt.
• The quantity to be allowed for this increafc cannot be deter-
mined
The Practice<?/'Brewing. 217
mined by our former calculations, and new trials are to be made,
in order to fix upon the true proportion.
Gauging is undoubtedly themoft certain method of proceding
in thcfe refcarches ; but even this becomes lefs fure, on ac-
count of the expanfion, evaporation, efFervefcence, and other
incidents already mentioned. Our errors however cannot be
very confiderable, when we deduce our conclulions from nu-
merous and fullicicntly varied experiments.
The volume of the grift of pale malt was found, after the
parting of the firft extrad, to be 15,41 inches, though the
fpace occupied by the malt, when dry, was only 5, 51 inches ;
and the volume of the brown grift, at the fame period, v/as 22,
36 inches, though .the dry malt filled only a fpace of 8,2 r in-
ches. The proportion in both thefe cafes, and in all thofe
which I have tried, anlwers nearly to one third, fo that the
volume of the grift, in the fecond and all fubfequent mafhes,
may be eftimatcd at three times the bulk of the malt when
dry.
Hence might be deduced a method for calculating the vo-
lume of the malt, lefs intricate than that which we were obliged
to make ufe of. I Lrbear mentioning it here, as it muft ap-
pear manifeft.
It is found, by the gauges, that the goods, after the feveral
(aps are fpent, remain fenlibly of the fame volume, or at leaft
very little diminiflied; may we not conclude, that the part ab-
forbed
ai8 T^^ P R A c T I c E ^Brewing.
forbed by the water, in which the virtue of the grain and the
ftrength of the beer confift, is contained in an amazing fmall
compafs ? It is indeed true that hot waters and repeated maihes
do fwell a little the hulls and Ikins of the malt, but no allow-
ance made for this increafe will be fufficicnt, to remove the
caufe of our furprize.
^^^'^^ M m mm mmm mm^^^^
isa. ^ K •» ^ ^ ^^ ^^
SECTIOr^
Th& PraCtice^Brewing. 219
%■,* m"#^» #«' »k* *.» »* WS R* ^^^ •;* *r» v.* *.» **< *j» •*•*.» '#.» »,»'•,» «.« «.« #.• •,*• *.» ^A M *i» #A r.* •■» Sfc rS
SECTION XI.
Of the proportion of cold WATER to be added to that which
/.f BOILING, in order to obtain the defircd heat
in the EXTRACT.
.«-^^^4Bf HE degree of heat, which caufes water to boil
.^ -i^^'-f- J ig^ as ^ye hzyiQ feen, determined, by Farenheit's
•j^ ^c«,^ ^^ fcale, to 212. It is in our power to give to any
ills^^'^^ part of the extrading water this degree of heat;
and by adding to it a fufficient proportion of water of an equal
heat with that of the air, and blending thefe two quantities
with the grlit of the malt, to bring the \vhole to the requir-
ed temperature. The rules for obtaining this end are ex-
tremely fimple, and cannot be unknown to thofe, who arc fkil-
led in arithmetical operations. But as our view is to render
this part of our work generally ufeful, we think it will be proper
briefly to lay down thefe rules, and to ill ufl rate them by the
examples of our two brewings.
Rule to afcertain the heat of the firjl mcfl:.
Let a exprefs the degree of boiling water, b the adlual heat
of the air, c the required degree for the extrad, m the whole
quantity of water to be ufed, n the volume of the malt ; x, that
part of the water, which is to be made to boil, will be deter-
mined by the following equation,
c — b X m -\- n
X = «
2 20 1^^ Practice ©/"BREwiNGi
or in other terms ; the number of the barrels of water to be ufed
being added to the volume of the malt, let the fum be multi-
plied by the difference between the adual heat of the air and
that which is required for the extrad, and the produce be di-
vided by the excefs of the heat of the boiling water over that
of the air.
The firft example is that of a brewing of fmall beer, when
the heat of the air is at 6o. The volume of the 6 quarters of
malt, it confifts of, was eftimated at 3,42 barrels ; the firft liquor
is i4r barrels, and the heat required for the firft mafh 151
degrees.
Firjl mafh.
tn = 14550 barrels of water
n = 3,42 volume of the grift
m + n ^= i'j,()2. c= 151 heat of the mafh
c — if = 91 i> = 60 heat of the air
heatofboilingwater2i2 1792 c — d = 91
heat of the air - 60 161 28
a — I? = 152 ] 1630,72 [ 10,72 barrels of water to be
J 52 made to boil out of the 145 ;
the incidents to be mentioned
1 107 hereafter are not included in
1064 this calculation.
43^
3°4
/if
128 Thi&
the Practice^/" Brewing, 221
The next example of a brewing is that of a grift of 1 r
quarters of malt for porter or brown beer ; the medium heat of
the air is 40 degrees, the volume of the grift 6,1 1 barrels, tlic
firft liquor to mafti with 1 6 barrels, and tlie heat of the ex-
tra(5t 144 degrees.
Firfl majh of brcivn Jlrong beer.
16,00 barrels of water
6, 1 1 volume of malt
22,11 1 44 heat required in the mafli
1 04 40 heat of the air
heat of boiling water 212 8 844 1 04
heat of the air - 40 22 no
172 [ 2299,44 ] 13,36 barrels of water to
172 be made to boil out of the
JT-
579
SxG
516
1184
I will give one proof of the certainty of this rule^ by fetting
down the ftate of this firft mafh from it,
F f J 6,00
2 2 2 The Practice 0/ B r e w i n g.
i6,co water of firftnwfh ^jUttrreh vclameof grUB
1.3,36 barrels of boil- 13,36 Varrejs made to boil 40 heat in the grift
ill ing water —
^- ■ 1,64 barrels to cncl in 244,4odegreesof hear in the grift
3672'
1336
2(^72
B. 2831,32
riuniber of
degrees of
licat in the j
13,55 bar-
rels of boiling water
40 heat of thi; caid 105,60 A.
■ water 2S
A. 105 60 degrees of
^ji.JiB.
heatin.ltie [22,11 }i\%X,yX f H4 the degree of heat
ccld water 22.U required in the firft
1 3,3(J bciiing water • maih as above.
2,^4 cold water 9713
6,11 voluir.e cf grifl 8844
2i,irbari"els, volume
: Qf f h« 'Whole jnafli.
8692
So long as the mixture confirts only of two quantities of dif-'
ferent heat, as is always the cafe of the firft maih, the preceding
folution takes ]ikce. But in the fecond and other maflies, as
three bodies, each of different heat, viz. the boiling water,
the cold water, and the mafh, are to be mixed, and brought
to a determinate degree, the rule muft be different ; yet, like
tlie former, it is the fame with what is ufed in fimilar cafes of
allaying, when different metals are to be melted down into
a compound of a certain ftandard, or different ingredients of
different value to be blended, in order to make a mixture of a
determinate price. What tiae different denfity of the metals,
or the different value of the ingredients are in thcfe cafes, the
different cjegrecs of heat of the boiling water, the grif\, a;id the
■••',.:' ^ . T III"/ I
arr, are m this.
Rule
5^ Pr ACT ic E o/" Br E w I N G. .225
Rule to afcertain the beat of the fecond niaJJ:>, and of the fubfe-
quent ones.
Let the fame letters ftand for the thhigs they (ignlfied before,
and d exptefs tlie aftual heat of the grift, then will
X = c — b X m + c — d X n
"~~~~" a — b
or in plain terms, multiply the whole number of the barrels of
water to be ufed by the excefs of the required heat over that of
the air, multiply likewife the volume of the goods by the dif-
ference' between the required and the adual heat of the mafli,
add thbfe two produces together, divide the fum by the diffe-
rence between the heat of the boiling water and that of the
air, and the quotient will give you the quantity of the water,
which is to be. Jliade to boil, in order to bring the whole to
the delircd degree.
We may now colled the circumftances of the two brewings,
we have had before, and find the quantity of boiling water re-
quired for their fecond and fubfequent mafhes, exclufively of
the incidents which will hereafter be menticaied. .
The firft mafli for the fix quarters of fmall beer had 151 de-
grees of heat, but this and every mafli loofes, in the time the
^xtrad is parting from it, 4 degrees, which reduces the heat
to 147 degrees. The volume of this grift, in its dry ftate,
was 3,42 barrels, but now, by being expanded and having
imbibed much water, it occupies three times that fpace or
F f 2 10,26
2 24 ^^ Practice ^ Br b wi n g.
J 0,2 6 barrels; the air is fnppofed to continue in the fame
ftate of 60 degrees of heat. The length and heat to be given
to tlie three remaining mafhes are as follows.
Degrees of heat 151 169 176 183
barrrels of water 1 4I 14^ 11 11
liquors. 1234
I wort 2 wort.
Second majJ) of [mall beer.
c = 169.heatrequired.in the mafhi' = 1 69 heat required
b = 60 heat of tiie air d=i 47 heat of the gpods
c — ^ = 109 c — /= 22
m = 14,50 barrels of water »= 10,26 volume of
•" goods
5450 132
436 ' .4+
105? 220
( — ^xwJ^ 1 58,0,50 c -— d y. n 22572
c — dx n= 225,72
4- — b= 152] iSo6,2 2 [ 11,88 water to be made to boil, out of the
152 quantity of barrels allowed for the fe-
" • cond malh.
286
152
1342
iziG
i'<'6 nird
7h P-R A C T I C E ^ B R E W I N G. 2 2 5
.• Third ma/h.
t
■I 60
7
116
11,00
-
- T 116,00
116
1276,00
1 12, S6
O'j 165
ir
10,26
66
22
1 10
112,86
'5^-''] -^388, 86 [ 9,13 barrels to Soil for the third mafh.
,368^
208
152 - ' .
566
456
110
^ jg? !& i^ m
:•& :'5f ^
Fcurtb
a 26 ZJ^ P ft A C f IX E' ^ B H E w ^ N €.
Fourth map*
183 183
60 172
123 ' ' IX
11,00 10,26
O^J
12300 c:,oi I 112,86
123 ^ ' ' '
112,86
152 ] i465i86 \, 9,64 barrels to boil for the fourth inafhi
1368
978
912 , ■
666 ,~7
608
58
The liquors of this brewing muft tlaerefore be ordered In
the following manner.
boiling water ; barrels i o^ ■ ■ 1 2 ■ 91.— ——9^
cold water; barrels 31 — 2r li It
14^ I4r II II
liquors i "r-:; — r: 2 »■ ■ _■; 3 •■ 4
~ The
T^g Practice c/" B r b W f ^ '6.- 227'
The heat of the firft mafli for the 11 quarters of brown beer
was 144 d<?grees, and, after the parting of the ex^raft from it,
140; the volume of the grift, in its dry ftate, w'as" valued at
6, 1 1 barrels "of water, but, for the rcafons before mention-
ed, it now occupies three times that fpace, or 10,33 ^^^'
rels. The air is fuppofcd to continue at 40 degrees , and
the length and heat to be given to the different JXiaihcs were
determined as follows. >, ^ j
Degree of heat 144 ijTZ 15^ ^ 59~^ ^^^
barrels of water 16 8 12 / ,"^*^ 9
liquors I 2 3 -*-^4^ 5
•.•),0^i ' ^ ' -- * /- •
I wort , .2 wort 3 wore.
3i3VI£d X.(\c
Second mafi of br&mn ftrong beer.
152 —-i^
40 hz-^iP
112
8,00
[ 6,48
12
18,33
212
40
896,00
219,96
rc'6 36
36
(^ , 96
barrels of water to boil i z
172 ]
1115,96
J 03 2
S39
688
%%:'' 219,96
1516
1376
140
'third
2 -2j5 . 7^0 B I^/A#;ir. J C E of B R E WIN Gi"?
156 ' 156
40 148
116 8
12,00 18,33
232,00 24
116 24
' . '■ 64
1392,00 8
146,64 '■
1-72 ] 1538,64 [ 8,94 barrels of water to boil
1376 for the third mafh.
146,64
- 1626
1548
784
68S
96
m ^**^ m
K ** a
K i'i- m
« m
5>;
Fourth
y2tf Practice ^/'Brewing. 229
Fourth majl:. ■
159
159
40 ^52
"9
9,00
1071,00
128,31
7
18,
2)
172 ] 1199,31 [ 6,97 barrels of water to boil for 7
1032 , the fourth mafh.
128,:
»673
1543
1251
1204
47
162
40
122
9,00
Fifth mafh.
162
7
18,33
1098,00 ^*M*
128,31
172 ] 1226,31 [7,13 barrels of water to boil for the fifth,
1204. mafh.
223
172
^'' Gg The
230 Hie Practice <?/'Brewing.
The liquors of this brewing of brown beer mufl therefore be
ordered in the following manner ;
barrels of boiling water 13^ 64^ 9 7 — 74-
barrels of cold water 2^ \\ 3 2 li
16 8 12 9 — 9
liquors. 12345
Each of thefe calculations may be proved in the fame manner
as was done before. This method of difcovering the propor-
tion of water to be cooled in, defcrves, by its plainnefs and
utility, to be preferred to any other, which only depends upon
the uncertain determination of our fenfes.
SECTION
The Pr A c T I CE <?/ B R E w I N G. 231
SECTION xir.
Of MASHING.
ft^k^^ T may be faid, that, in general, the conftrudion
^■■' - J ■ "^ and difpofition of moll brew-houfes would admit
^■■,^- -(^)^ of very little farther 'improvement. The great cop-
^>>-*^ per, in which the waters for two of the extrads re-
ceive their temperature, is built very near the mafli tun, fo that
the liquid may readily be conveyed to the ground malt. A-
cock is placed at the bottom of the copper, which being open-
ed lets the water have its courfe, through a trunk, to the real
bottom of the mafh tun. It foon fills the vacant fpace, forces
itfelf a paflagc through fome holes made in the falfe bottom,
which fupports the grift, and increafing in quantity buoys up
the whole body of the corn.
In order to blend together the water and the malt, rakes
are firft employed. By their horizontal motion, lefs violent
than that of mafliing, the fineft parts of the flower are wetted,
and prevented from being fcattered about, or loft in the air.
But as a more intimate penetration and mixture are necefla-
ry, oars are afterwards made ufe of. They move perpendi-
cularly, and by their beating or mafhing, the grains of the
malt are bruifed, and a thorough imbibition of the vvater
procured.
G g 2 The •
232 - The Practice o/" Brewing.
The time employed in this operation cannot be fettled with
an abfolute precifion. It ought to be continued, till the malt Ts
futliciently incorporated with the water, but not fo long as
that the neceffary heat for the extradtion be loft. As bodies-
cool more or lefs fpeedily, in proportion to their volume and
the cohefion of their parts, a mafh which has but little wa-
ter, commonly called a lliff-inafl.\ requires a longer mafhing
to be fufficiently divided, and, on account of its tenacity, is-
lefs liable to lofc its heat. This accounts for the" general rule,,
that the firfl: mafh ought always to be the longeft.
• After mafhing, the malt and water are fuffered to fland'
together unmoved , generally for a fpace of time equal to
that they were mallied in. Was the extraft drawn from the
grain, as foon as the mafhing is over, many of the particles
of the malt would be brought away undifTolved, and the li-
quor be turbid , though not rich. But, by leaving it fome
time in contadl with the grain, without any external motion,
many advantages are gained. The different parts of the extradl
acquire an uniform heat, thofe that are the heavieft and moft
terreftrial fubfide, the pores being opened, by heat, imbibe
more readily the water, and give way to the attenuation and
dlflblution of the oils. When the tap comes to be iti, or the
extrad to be drawn from the grift, as the bottom of the mafh
is become more compact, the liquor is a longer time in its paffage
through it, and confequently extracts more firength from the
malt, and becomes more homogeneous and tranfparent.
Such
'The Practice<?/'Brewing. 233
Such are the reafons why the grift lliould not only be mafli-
ed pretty long, but likewife be fufFcred to reft an equal time. It is
the pradlice of moft brewers and experience fhews it is beft to rake
the firft mafli half an hour, to mafh it one hour more, and to
fufFer it to ftand one hour and half. The next extraft is com-
monly mafhed three quarters of an hour, and ftands the fame
fpace of time ; the third, and all thofe that follow, are allowed
one half hour each, both for mafliing and ftanding.
The heat of the grift being in this manner equally fpread,
and the infufion, having received all the ftrength from the malt,
which fuch a heat could give it, is let out of the tun. This,
undoubtedly, is the fitteft time, to obferve, whether our expec-
tations have been anfwered. The thermometer is the only in-
ftrument proper for this purpofe, and it ought to be placed,
where the tap is fet, at the underbade cock. The obfervation
is beft made, when the extrafl has run nearly half, and as,
by it, we are to judge, with what fuccefs the procefs is carried
on , it is neceflary to examine every incident , wlaich may
eaufe a deviation from the calculated heat.
SECTION
2 34 ^^ Practice 0/ Brewing.
SECTION XIII.
Of the INCIDENTS, which caufe the HEAT of the
EXTRACT to vary from the calculation, the alkurmcei
they, require i and the means to obviate their effects.
^-^^^^^ Y incidents, I mean fuch caufes , as afFefl either
^ B I the malt, the water, or the mafli, fo as to occafi-
^^^,^/^ on their heat to differ from what is determined
by calculation. As thefe might frequently be a
reafon of difappointment, an inquiry into their number and ef-
fe6ts will not only furnifh means to prevent and reftify the er-
rors they occafion, but alfo ferve to confirm our prad:ice.
In our refearches on the volume of malts, fome notice was
taken of the increafe of bodies by heat, and the lofs occafioned
by evaporation. Water, when on the point of ebullition, oc-
cupies the largeft fpace ; but contrading again, when cold wa-
ter is added to it, 'the true volume .of both, when mixed t02:c-
ther, remains uncertain, and may caule a difference between
the calculated and real degree of heat. Tliis caufe, however,
producing an effeft oppofite to, and balanced in part by, evapo-
ration, becomes fo inconfiderable , as hardly to deferve any
farther confideration.
Water, jufl on the point of ebullition, may be efleemed heat-
ed to 2 1 2 degrees. Though, by the continuation of the fire, or
by
The Practice o/'Brewing. 235
by any other caufc", the heat never goes beyond this, yet was
cold water added to that, which violently boil's, the medium
degree would be exceeded ; for the cold water abforbing the
fuperfluous quantity of fire, which otherwife fly's off, becomes
hot of itfeh, and fruftrates the intent. The time therefore of
adding the cold water to fhe hot is immediately, before the
ebullition begins, or when it is juft ended ; and in proportion
as we deviate from this praflice, the heat in the cxtraft will
differ from the calculated desrree.
The water, for every mafli, fhould, as much as poffiblc, be
got ready to boil, and be cooled in jufl before it is to be ufed.
A liquor, which remains a long time after the ebullition is
over, and the fire has been damped up, lofes part of its heat,
and if cold water is applied to it, the effedt cannot be the fame
as it would have been at firfl. If, on the contrary, the liquor
16 got ready too foon and cold vvater immediately added to it,
in order to gain the proper degree of temperature, by leavin"-
the mixture long in the copper, though the fire is flopped up,
more heat than necefTary will be received from the copper
and brickwork, efpecially if the utencils are large. In both
cafes , the degree in the extradl will no more anfwer the
heat, which was expeded.
* DifFerent quantities of water are where the colJeft water always is, the
diftereiuly afFcdled by the fame portion remaining part, having a greater pro-
of fire; when the ebullition is j.uft over, portion of lire than before, attain be-
and the furf:ice of the iiquor is become gins to boil, though not afFtded by any
fmooth, if fome of it is, by a cock, increafc of heat,
drawn from the bottom of the copper,
The
236 77}£ Practice «?/ Brewing.
The efFeft of efFcrvefcence next defervcs our confide ration,'
but only takes place when the water firfl: comes in contact with
tlie malt. Germinated grains muft, to become malt, be dried
fo, that their particles be forced from one another, beyond their
fpheres of attraction ; being thus deprived of the parts , to
which their union was due, when they come in contadl with
other bodies, (as water,) they ftrongly attradl the unitive par-
ticles they want, and excite an inteftine motion, which gene-
rates heat. This motion and this heat are more adtive in propor-
tion as the grain has more flrongly been imprefled by fire, and
the extracting water is hotter.
A large quantity of liquor applied io the grift is lefs heated
than a fmall one, by the lame power of effervefcence. The
leaft quantity of water, neceflary to fhew the whole of that
power , muft be as much as malt requires to be faturated,
which we have fcen to be double the volume of the grain.
When more water is put to the grift than what has bc?n men-
tioned, the real efFervefcing heat is by fo much leflened, be-
ing difperfed in more than a fufficient fpace.
A table Ihewing the heat of effervefcence for every degree
of drynefs in the malt, can only be formed from obfervati-
ons. To apply this table to practice, and to find out, for any
■ quantity of water ufed in the firft mafh, the degrees of heat
produced by effervefcence, three times the volume of the grift
muft be multiplied by the number exprefting the effervefcing
heat for malt of fuch a degree of drynefs, and this produce be
divided by the real volume of the whole mafh.
A Table
7^^ P R A C TI C E O/" BRE W I N G. 237
A Table {hewing the heat occafioned by the effer-
vcfcing of malt, for its feveral degrees of drynefs.
Drynefs heat of
of male cfFervefcsnce
119° ------ o
124 3^
129 7
134 ------ i°v
138 ------ 14
143 ^7^ -.1
148 - 21
152 24i
157 28
162 3U
167 35
171 384-
176 ------ 40
Malt dried only to 1 1 9 degrees raifes no efFervefcence, and
the ftrongeft is generated by malt, dried to 176 degrees. The
heat occafioned by it amounts to 4c degrees, and probably would
exceed this number, could the firll: grirt, notwithitanding all our
endeavours, be intirely penetrated by the water. The more
it is fo, the greater is the increafe in the degrees of heat pro-
■duced by effervefcence, till the liquor be pcrfedly faturated ;
and in this ftate of progreffion, which takes up the whole time
H h of
258 7he Practice 0/* Brewing,
of the firil mafhing and ftanding, the air cannot produce any
diminution of heat, an incident,' which affeds conlidcrably
every mafii but the firft.
The little copper being more diftant from the mafli tun
than the other, the water prepared In it waftcs, in its pafTage to
the goods, a greater j^art of its heat. And in proportion to the
water v.fed, to the number of the extradls that have been
made, and according as the maflies have more or lefs confiftency,
in the fame time do they part, with more or lefs of their
heat. Obfervations made feparately upon flrong and fmall
beer have fhewn the proportions of this lols to be as follows;
5
8'
Forjlmng beer.
Maflies
2
3
4
heat loft
8°
12'
For fmall beer.
%"
Maflies
2
3
4
heat loft
8°
16'
20'
By employing hard corns, or a grift not perfe^Iy malted,
the expedat'on of lh6 computed degree is difappointed, as the
volume cannot be fuch as wa? eftimated from the drj-nefs of
the grain. It has been obfer\'cd that, in true malts, the fhoot is
very near prefling through the exterior fkin of the grain. By
fo much as it is deficient in this particular, muft it be account-
ed only as dried barley, or hard corn. I know no better way
of judging what proportion of tlic corn is hard to what is malt-
ed,
'Jtloe Practiceo/Brewing. 239
ed, than by putting fome in water, as by that means, the grains
not fulliciently grown will fink to the bottom. Were this to be
done in a glafs cylinder, the proportion between the hard and
malted corn might calily be found with exadnefs. The un-
xnalted parts being eftlmatcd witli regard to their volume, as
barley, a quarter of them will be to the barrel of water as 1,56
to I . Suppofmg therefore that, in the brown beer grift before
mentioned, the proportion of hard corns is of 2 quarters out
of 1 1, to difcover the true volume of fuch a grift, the follow-
ing rule may be ufed.
2 quarters
9 quarters of true malt . 1,56 volume of
1,80 volume at 1 3 S° of drynefs i quarter
. 3,12
16,20^
3,12 volume of 2 quarters of hard corn
totalnumbcrii] i9'3- L i'75 true volume of one quarter of
this malt to one barrel of water, and confequently the 11 quar-
ters will fill a fpace equal to that of 6,28 barrels.
By means of this rule, wc may find -what increafe of heat
any proportion of hard earns will require , as will be feea
in the following table.
Proportions of hard corns T ^ j tV -V of the grift:
greater heat of the mafh 4° 3 2 i -I-
But the "brewing df fliclv malt ought to be avoided as much
as poiiiblc, as the hard parts afford no ft'rength to the extracT;.
H h 2 . If
2 40 Toe Practice ^Brewing.
If a grill is not well and thoroughly mafhed, the heat not
being uniformly diftributcd in the different parts of the extraft,
the liquor of the thermometer, when placed in the running
flream of the tap, will fluduate, and at different times, fhew dif-
ferent degrees of heat. In this cafe, the befl way is to take the
' , mean of feveral obfervations, and to make that the true heat of
the mafli.
If the gauges of the coppers arc not exaftly taken, a varia-
tion muff be expeded.
Though the fmall and hourly variations in the ftate of the at-
mofphere have but little influence upon our numbers, a difference
will be obfervcd in any confiderablc and fudden changes either of
the heat or of the weight of the air. Our inftruments, and in
particular the thermometer, are fiippofed to be well conftruftcd
and graduated. If the water cooled in with is more or lefs hot
than effimated, or if the time of mafliing or ffanding is either
more or lefs than was allowed for, the computation muff be
found to vary from the event.
While the malt is new, and the heat received from the kiln
has not fufficientl}- fpent itfelf, this additional heat is not cafiiy ac-
counted for- This is iikewife the cafe, when malt is laid againft
the hot brickwork of coppers ; and on the contrary a lofs of
drynefs may be occafioncd, if the ftore rooms are damp.
The artift Ihould be attentive to all thefe incidents; the not
pointing them out might appear negledful, enumerating more
would exceed the bounds of ufe.
Small
The Practice ^Brewing. 24 1
Small grills brewed in large utencils lofe their heats more
readily, by laying thin and greatly expofed to the air ; and on
the contrary a lefs allowance, for the lofs of heat, is required in
large grifts and proportionable veffcls.
This indeed is, or ought to be, the only difference between
brewings carried on in large publick brewhoufes, and thofe
that are made in fmall private places, in other refpeds conflrudl-
cd upon the fame plan and with an equal care. I kno\v popu-
lar prejudices are on the other fide, but as I believe, not on that
of truth. It has been commonly imagined that, in large places,
flronger extradts could be forced from the malt, in proportion
to its quantity, and that more delicate beers would be made in
fmallcr vefTels lefs frequently ufed. Thefe affertions, from
what has been faid, will, I hope, need no farther enquiry.
Brewings will mofl probably fucceed in all places, where the
grift is not too large to exceed the bounds of man's labour, and
not fo fmall as to prevent the heat from being uniformly main-
tained. The difadvantages are great on all fides, when a due pro-
portion is not obfervcd between the utenfils and the works car-
ried on.
It will now be proper to continue the delineation of our tw»
brewings, and to put all the circumftanccs relating to them un*
dcr one point of view.
A brewing
242 Ihe Practice o/Brevving.
A brewing for porter or brown ftrong beer comput-
ed for 40 degrees of heat in ihe air.
1 1 quarters of malt dried to 138 degrees ; 13^ pounds of hops
27 barrels 4 to go out at 3 worts, 2:9 inches above brafs
6,11 volume of grift ji effe-veicing degree*
3 3 degrees for h4rd
•—— corns
18,33 14 degrees equal to 5
14 efFervefcing degree |- inches 'efs cool-
ir I in for the firft
volume of grift 6, T I 7332 nii.lh.
water for firfl mafli 16,00 1 833
■i I ■ ■ I ■ ■ ■ ■
22,11 ] 25662 [11 degrees of beat gaineJ in the firft malk
2211 by eft't-fvefcencc.
1552
Mafhes 12345
Degrees of heat 144 152 — — 156 — — 159 ■»•- 162
wliole quantity
of water ufed, barrels 1 6 8 1 2 9 • 9
Quantity to be
cooled in; barrels 2^ — !'■ —3 2 It
Coppers to be .
charged with ; barrels 13^ 61 9 — «— — y yi
Allowances for
L. C.
nv7:e 2.
t
* Dodui^ion from the i mafh for heat created by cfTcrvefcenee nnd hanl corns,
f Additions to tiic next mafhes, on account of the refrigeration occafipned
by nrafhing and ftanding.
J G. C. ftanJs for great copper, L. C. ftands for little copper.
A brewing
incidetits j
G. C.
L C.
L, C.
L.(
intjies.
*
niore 2.
t
mo-^ 3.
%
nior<i
Tha Practice <7/*Brewino.
A brewing for common fjiiall beer computed for 60 degrees cf
heat in the air.
6 quarters of malt dried to 13S degrees; 36 pounds of hops
30 barrels \ to go out 56 inches above brafs.
Volume of grift 3,4a
3
20,26
7 eiTervcfcing degree for
grift 3,42 malt at 130
water ] \\,^o — — (fee table page 237,) •
^ ■ M I- » ■ ■^.
17,92 ] 71,82 [ 4 degrees of heat
4° for efFcrvefcence
1° for hard corns
3° for new malt hot
8° to be deduced from
the firft cooling in.
14
Mafhes J
Degrees of heat 151-
whole quantity of
water ufed, barrels 141-
Quantity to bo
cooled in, barrels 3'--
Coppers to be
charged, barrels ro^—
Allowances for '••'
?i68 gained in the mafli
— — by cfFervefcence.
2
[69
.176
4
..183
•14^
-M'
•ir
li-
■14-
12
9.-
9v
inciJcnta ; iiichss ; G C.
lefs 2 i
t t t
G. C. L. C. L, C.
more 2 ; more 4 ; more 5.
* The charge of the firft liquor is for loj barrels, with a dedudlion of 2 in-
ches, accordiag to the gauges of the coppers, page iSr. Thefe two inches zn-
fwer to the 8 degrees of heat for the eftervefccace, hard corns, and nev,' malt.
f The fecond and followinj maflies are to be charged with as many more in
ches of boiling water, as ai;f\ver to the fourth part of tiiC number of degrees
of heat loft by tlie refrigeration of the malhes. Thefc
243
244 ^^*^ Practice (t/" Brewing.
Thefe computations , perhaps will appear more troubler-
fome than they really are the more fo , as they vary , for
every brewing ; but, befides the facility, which exercife al-
ways gives for operations of this kind, the fatisfaftion of pro-
ceding upon a lefs precarious foundation than what has been
hitherto thought fufficient, will, I hope, encourage the praditio-
ner in this additional labor. One advantage mufl: greatly lefTen it,
and at the fame time fecure the uniformity of the drinks ; viz,
that tables for each may be made before hand, and will ferve
as often as the circumftances are the fame. The trouble of the
computations will by that means be fave4, and by collefting
together different brewings of the fame kind, the artift will, at
any time , have it in his power to fee what influence the
leaft deviation from his rules had upon his operations, and
to what degree of precifion he may hope to arrive.
That nothing may be wanted, in tliis work, that may faci-
litate the intelligence thereof, I beg leave to infert, in two
tables, the examples of fome adlual brewings made according to
the computations, I have here fucceiTively traced down. The
lirfl: column contains the numbers computed, the next the
brewings made from thefe numbers with their dates, and
the laft the variations in the charges ot the coppers , occa-
fioned by unforefeen incidents, upon the principle, that each,
inch of cooling in anfwers to four degrees of heat.
Small
'The Practice o/'Brewing.
245
Small Beer 6 Quarters of Malt at 130°.
Length, 30T Barrels, Air at 60".
Comput.
I
'5f
r
Degrees.
1* 1. ' 1 "1
1 Mqoor , g.eat cop-
J.ly 10.
July 11.
per charged linchei
• bovc brafi j cool-
I Mall
H7
147
U5
•
ed into I J and > halt'
inchei above braft.
1' 1 1 I r i » '-'S'-o , gieat c.p-
per charged 9 in-
aMafh.
165
'63
167
1
ches abofo brafi,
cuoled into 11 in-
I 1 1
( che» and i hal?.
i
i wort came in 33 in-
cliel above brafs
- went out aS incbei
above brafs
jMifli
17:
174
1-2
/
- boiled I hour tc half
J Liquor, litiic cop -
par charged 12 in-
•hci abort brafa ;
r
cooled ia to 13 in-
1 1
ches above brafs.
4 L i^uor, little cop-
4 MaOi
179
179
179
per charged ij in-
ches above brafi j
cooled in nothing.
1
-
a wort came in 39
above brafs
- went o»t i8 inches
above brafs
Len|th 31 batKis
'
,
1
I i
Porter
246
The Practice o/*Brewing.
wi»ii«;!«;»ii«i«wi«iwwmi#tawfflwi»iMi«jii»iw(«8^Mi»ii«ii»iMi»ii«SJffl
Porter, 11 Quarters of Malt at ijS"
Length, 27^ Barrels, Air at 40*.
1759 1760
iMalh
f"»mput.
Degrees.
140
Nov. J 6.
140
De:. S.
13S
Feb. lo.
143
Feb. iS.
140
I Liquor, gre«t cop-
per charged 6 and
a half inches above
braf;, cooled in t»
17 inches.
iMafli
148
146
150
146
148
■ Liquor, little cop-
per charged half
an inch bclon
brjfs, cooled in to
th-ee i&ches abore
brefs.
I wort came in 16 in^
went oiii 13 inchee a-
bovc brafs ■ boiled
3 Malh
152
154
152
150
150
1 hour
3 liquof,little topper,
charged 9 inches
above brals , cool-
ed in to 16 inches
aboTe brafs.
2 wort came in Ji in-
ches above br. (brafs
went out 5 in. above
. boiled z tours.
4ivr»Ci
^SS
^SS
'S'^
157
157
4 liquor. Tittle copper
charged i in h and
a half above brafs,
cooled in to 6 in-
ches above brafs.
5 liquor, little cop-
per charged 2 in.
dies and a half a-
bove brafs, couled
into 6 inches above
5 fafli
158
158
160
I5S
15?
krafs.
3 wort came in 24 in,
abjvc br. (lirafi
went out II in. above
Length zybar.] ^ihs
S t C T I O N
*lhe P R A C T 1 C E (?/ B R E VV I N G. 2\J
SECTION XIV.
Of the difpofitlon of the WORTS ivheii turned out of the
C O P P E il, tlk thicknejs theypould be laid at in ?/jf B A C K8
/5 C O O L, and the heat they fiiould retain for f er mental i^
on, under the feveral circumjiances.
^-^■•x-^40 H E N a procefs of brewing Is regularly carried
^ 'f"rr,"f' V on, the worts come in courk to boil, as the cxfrad=;
jk -^-■-"•i^ Jj^ which formed them are produced. It would be
0>^K-'«*'fi} tedious and unneceffary to defcribe the minutell:
parts of the practice ; which vary as the brewing olTices are dif-
ferently conrtrufted, or the utenlils variouliy arranged. With-
out the affiflance of a brewhoufe, it is perhaps impoffible to
convey to the imagination the entire apphcation of the rules be-
fore laid down, but with one, I hope, they need little, if any,
fardier explanation.
The worts, when boiled, are mufls j^ofleffing, in their in-
tended proportions, all the fermentable principles, except air.
This was expelled by the fire, and until the boiling heat is re-
moved, thofe worts cannot be faid to be in a fermentable ftate.
In mufts, which fpontaneoufly ferment, the included air
excites in the oils aii agitation, which, opening the pores of
the liquor, renders them capable to receive part of the exter-
nal ai^:. The cafe is not exadtly the fame with regard to
^12, thofo
248 *^& Practice <?/ Brewing.
thofe mufts, which require ferments. The air wanted in boilect
worts mull: be fupplied by the means of yeaft. Was the heat of
the wort fuch, as to occafion the immediate burfting of all the
air bubbles contained in the yeaft , an effervefcence rather
than a fermentation would infue. Now a heat fuperior to
that of 80 degrees has this effed, and is therefore one of the
boundaries in artificial fermentation j that of 40 degrees, for-
want of being fufficient to free the air inclofed in the yeaft
bubbles, and to excite their aftion, is the other. Within thefe
limits, mufl the wort be cooled to ; and the precife degree,
which varies according to the different circumftances they arc
in, and to the intent they are to be applied to, is, together
Avith the means of procuring this heat, the purport of this fee-
tion.
Worts, when in the copper, boll at a heat fomewhat fupe-
rior to that of 2 12 degrees, and the more that heat is exceeded, the
ftronger the liquor is. The inftant the wort is fuffered to go out
of the copper, it lofcs more heat, than at any other equal fpace
of time after it lias been expofed to the air. In the courfe of
the natural day, cr in 24 hours, the heat of the air varies fome-
times, (efpecially in fummer time,) as much as 20 degrees. If
the wort, after having reached the loweft degree in this inter-
val, was fuiTered to remain in the coolers, till the return of a
greater licat in the air, it would be influenced by this increafe,,
expand, and be put again in motion. Should, at that time,
any elaftic air happen to be in the vefTels, which fometimes
happens, either from the fedimcnt of former worts, the backs
net
T^e Practice ©/"Brewing. 249
not being clean fwept, or the wood being old and fpung).-, the
wort fuppofed to be left to cool, will, before it is removed,
bring on, in a lower degree, the adl of fermentation ; and this
accident is by the artifl called the bach being ft.
For this reafon, a wort iLould never be fufFered to lay fo
long as to be expofed to tliis injury , which generally may
happen in a little more than twelve hours. Thus are we di-
rc6ted to fprcad or lay our worts fo thin in the coolers, as that
they may come to their due temperature within this fpace ; in
fiimmer it is fufficient if the backs be covered ; m winter a
height of two inches may oftentimes be allowed.
From the inclination of the coolers or backs to the place,
where the worts run off, from their largenefs, or from the wind
and air warping them, a wort feldom, perhaps never, lays
every where at an equal depth, and cannot therefore become
uniformly cold in the fame fpace of time This renders the
life of the thermometer difficult, in this cafe, though perhaps
not impra<5ticable. To fupply the want of this inftrument with
fome degree of certainty, the hand intended to feel the worts
is brought to the heat of the body, by placing it in the bofom^
until it has fully received it. Then dipping the fingers into
the liquor, we judge, by the fenfation it occafions, whether it
is come to a proper degree of coolnefs to be fermented. As the
external parts of our bodies are generally of about 90 degreeiv
of heat, fome degree of cold muft be felt, before the worts arc
ready for the purpofe. But that degree varies for different
drinks, and in different feafons, I will endeavour to fct forth
2 50 'The Practice (j/ B r e w i m g.
the rules to be obferved in judging of fmall beers, A greater
preciiion, both for that and for other drinks, will be found in the
followinE; table.
In July and AugiiH, no other rule can be given, than that the
worts be got as cold as poffible. The fame rule holds good in
June and September, except the feafon is unnaturally cold. In
May and Odober, worts fhould be let down nearly thirty de-
grees colder than the hand ; in April, November, and March,
the worts fhould be about twenty degrees colder than the hand,
and only ten in January, February, and December.
It may perhaps be thought that the heats here fpeciiied are
great, but worts cool as they run from the backs to the work-
ing tuns, they are alfo affeded by the coldnefs of the tuns them-
felves, and perhaps thefe circumrtances are not fo trivial, but
that an allowance fhould be made for them. In general, the
heat of no muft fhould exceed 60 degrees, becaufe fermenta-
tion increafes this or any other degree, in proportion to that un-
der which this particular part of the procefe begins.
yi. y^: ?K Si;
«
A Tabls
common fmall
all keeping beers amber or ales.
- 75
- 60
-
- - 59 - - - 55
- - 56 - - - 54
- - 53 - - - 53
- - 50 - - - 52
- 55
- 50
^
- - 50 - - - 51
- - 50 - - - 50
7>&^ Pr A C T. I C E (?/* B R E VV I N G. 2^1
A Table fliewing the degrees of heat, worts fliould
have, when the yeafl; is apphed to them, according
to the fevcral degrees of heat in the air.
Heat of the air
25 -
3° -
35 -
40 -
45 -
5"^ -
55 7 In tliefe cafes, when the medium heat of the air is
66 } greater than that which the worts fhould ferment
at, the cold of the night mufi: be made ufe of, to bring them as
near as poffible to their temperature. It has been obferved,
that the coldeft part of the natural day is about one hour be-
fore fun riling.
The confequences of worts being fet to ferment at, in an
undue heat, are the following. In ftrong beers, or fuch as are
intended for long keeping, if the worts be too cold, a longer
time is required for their fermentation, and the drinks grow
fine witli more difficulty ; if, on the contrary, they are too
hot, acidity and a wafte of fome of the fpirituous parts muft
infue. Either of thefe difadvantages appears more confpicu-
ous in common fmall beer, as, in winter, this drink, is feldom
kept a fufficient time, to correcS the defed, and in fummer,
from being too hot, it becomes putrid, or, in the terms of the
brewery, is hereby /o.vrd'.
SECTION
252 'Thz Practice <?/" Brewing.
SECTION XV.
0/VEAST, /Vi NATURE and CONTENTS, and of
the manner and quantities^ in nvhicb it is to be ad-
ded to the WORTS.
;^>*«54.*: U S T S or worts, though ever fo rich, when unfer-
*<J M ^ mented, yield no fpirit, by diflillation, nor inebriate,
"^'■s^^^* if drank in any quantity. The oils, which are not
fuiriciently attenuated for this purpofe, become fo by
fermentation. Air is abfolutely ncceflary for this adt, in the
courfe of which, fome of the aerial parts mixing with, and be-
ing enveloped by, oils greatly thinned, are inclofed in veficles
not fulliciently ftrong, to refill: the force of elafticity, or prevent
a burlVing and explolion. As the procefs goes on, the air joins with
oils both coarfer and charged with earthy particles, a coat is form-
ed capable of refilling its expanfion, and if the bubbles cannot
come to a volume, fulTicient to be floated in and upon tTie liquor,
they fink to the bottom, and take the appellation of lees of nvine.
Between thefe two extremes, there is another cafe, when the
bubbles are fuiBciently flrong to hold the air, but not weighty
enough to fink. They are buoyed upon the furface of the li-
quor, and there remaining entire are termed the^owers ofiaine.
Both lees, and flowers, are therefore veficles formed out of
the muft, and filled with clalVic air, and either feparately or when
mixed together, they obtain the general denomination oi yeaft.
We
l^'hz Practice o/Brewing. 253
Vv'^e have often mentioned the power of the fire in driving
the air out of worts. Yeaft fraught with the principle now
wantedj for fermentation, is therefore the propereft fuhjeft, to
be added to the mufts ; but its texture is various, in propor-
tion to the different heats of the extrads , it was formed
from. Keeping drinks, extracted with hotter waters, )icld a
yeaft, the oils of which have a greater fpiiTitude. It is
confequently (lower, more certain, and moft fit to promote a
cool and gentle fermentation. That, on the contrary, which
is produced from fmall beer, being weak, and ading at once,
is apt, not only to puff up the drinks, but to excite a motion like
that of effervefcence ; fuch yeaft ought, therefore, not to be ufed,
but when there is no pofTibility, to obtain the other.
The longer wines or beers are under the firil ad of fer-
mentation, the greater variety will be found in the texture of
the bubbles, wliich compofe their flower and lees. Wines made
out of grapes require fomc time, before this firfi: period is at an
end; and we have feen, that in them fermentation firlt brings
forth air bubbles, whofe conftituent parts are mofl tender, and
afterwards fome that are of a llronger texture. As malt liquors
require a lefs time to ferment, their bubbles are more fimilar ;
on this account, the whole quantity of yeaft, necefTary to fcr*-
meht a wort, fhould not be applied at once, leall: the air blad-
ders, burfting nearly in the fame time, fhould prevent that
gradual adion, which feems to be the aim of nature, in all her
operations.
K k Chanfmg
254 ^^ Practice o/'Brewinc.
Cleanfvig is dividing the drink into feveral cafks ; this checks
the motion, occafioned by fermentation, and confcquently re-
tards it. To prevent this from being too fenfibly felt, fome
yeafl: fhould be put to the drink, before it is removed into die
cafks. As the conftituent parts, in ftrong beers, are more te-
nacious, than in Imall, and require a greater motion to entertain
the fermentation, tlie drinks, before they be thus divided, fhould,
bcfides the addition of the yeafl:, be well roufed with a fcoop, or
by fome other means, for one hour. This not only blends all
the parts together, but attenuates and heats the liquor, and
makes it more ready to begin to ferment again, w hen in the
cafks. One fixth part of the whole of the yeafl: ufed is gene-
rally referred for this purpofe ; and the remainder is equally di-
vided as the worts are let down. It muft be obferved, that this
flirring, though as neceffary to fmall, as to flrong, drinks, is
only to be continued, for a fpace of time proportioned to their
flrength.
We have before feen, that, when malt is entirely extrad-
ed for one and tlie fame purpofe, one gallon of yeaft to eight
bufhels of grain affords a fufficient fupply of air, to perfedl
the fermentation. This takes place, when the heat of the air
is at 40 degrees; and in the hotteft weather, experience fhevvs,
that half that quantity is the leaft that ought to be ufed. But
as, in fome ales, the whole virtue of the malt is not extradf-
ed, and what remains is appropriated to tlie making of fmall
beer, the quantity of yeafl, ufed for thefe drinks, mufl be
♦niy in proportion to the ftrength extracted. From thefe pre-'
niifes.
72^ Pr A cTicE^?/ Brewing. 255
mifes, the following tables have been formed, exhibiting the
quantity of yeaft neceflary, for the feveral forts of drinks, and
the different heats of the air.
A Table fliewing the quantities of yeaft neceflary
for common fmall beer in every feafon.
Heat pints of yeaft to
of the air one quarter of malt
35 - - - 9 1
40 - - - 8 I The whole quantity of yeaft to be put
45 - - - 8 ( into the firft wort.
50 - - - /
55 - - - 71 The firft wort to have ^
60 - - - 6 V The fecond wort to have 4.
65 6.
yo - - - 5 I The firft wort to have one half of the
yS - ~ ~ 5 \ whole quantity. ■
So - - - 4 J The fecond wort to have the remainder.
K k 2 A Table
2 r 6 The Practice (j/ Brewing.
A Table fliewing the quantities of yeaft neceflary
for all keeping drinks, both brown and pale, fmall
and ftrong.
Heat pints of yeaft
of rhe worts * to one quarter of malt
30 9
35 - 9
40 - 8
45 8
50 7" '
SS 7
60 ------ 6
65 5
70 ..---. 5
75 ------ 4
80 ------ 4
• In beers intended for long keep- ed by the heat of the worts or mufls,
ing, the fermentation is to be govern- more than by that of the exterior air.
jg. ^ 5'gf (Cj jgj
m ^ ^ ^
^ =sJ ^
A Table
lie Practice ^Brewing, 257
*&&*-A*;****i'if*************'«f****** **********
A Table (hewing the quantities of yeaft neceflary
for amber and all forts of ales, after which fmall
beer is made.
Heat pints of yeaft
of the air to one quarter of male
30 -6t
35 - 6 i
40 ------ 6
45 ------ 54.
50 ------ 5 T
SS - 5
60 - - - S - - 4t
65 ------ 4
70 - 3 ^
75 - 3t
80 ------ 3
In every heat of the air, the quantity of yeaft to be ufed for
the fmall beer made after ale, muft be one third part of the
quantity, which the ale required.
SECTION
2c8 The Practice <?/'BREWiNOk
SECTION XVI.
Of practical FERMENTATION, mid the management of
the federal forts c/" M A L T LI Q^ O R S, to the period,
at which they are to be cleanfed or put into the CASKS.
JSKt'^-tsaK HE laws of fermentation are univerfal, and uni-
-K* ' T' ' V- form ; and when it proceeds regularly, its different
^..u .-i..'^ periods are known by the different appearances of
SiKt~°°t»5i the fermenting liquor. As a particular appellation
is given to each of thefe appearances, it may not be unnecefTary
here to defcribe them.
1 . The firft fign of a wort fermenting is a fme white line,
compofcd of very fmall air bubbles, attached to the fides of the
tun ; it is then faid to have taken yeajl.
2. When thefe air bubbles are extended over the whole fur-
face of the muft, the wort is faid to be creamed over.
3. Bubbles cominuing to rife, a thin crufl: is formed ; but as
the fermentation advances rather fiiflcr near tlie fides of the
tun, than in the middle, this cruft is continually repelled ; from
which arifes the denomination of the wort parting from the
tun fide.
4. When the furface becomes uneven, as if it were rotk
v;ork, this ftage of fermentation, which lias no particular uk^ is
dilVmguillied by its height.
5. When
T^^P^RACTICE c/'BrEWING. 259
5. When the head becomes lighter, more open, more uni-
form, and of a greater depth, being round or higher in the
middle, than in any other part, and fceming to have a tendency
ftill to rife, the liquor, in the cafe of ftrong beer, is faid to be,
by fo many inches, 7i'jjit to cleanfe.
6. This head having rofe to its greatefl height, begins to
fink and to become hollow in the middle, and at the fame time,
more folid, the colours changing to a ftrongcr yellow or brown ;
the wort is then faid to be in ajit jlate to, cleanfe.
After this, no farther diftindions are made ; and if the fermen-
tation is fuffered to proceed in the tun, the head continues to
link, and the liquor is often injured.
As the denominations and taftes of liquors brewed from malt
are numerous, it is impofllble to fpecify each feparate one; we
fhall therefore only particularize fuch forts of drinks, as were
taken notice of in the fcdion of extradion, they being moft
in ufe ; but, from what will be faid about them, the method of
managing any other malt liquor may eafily be deduced.
Spontaneous pellucidity arifes from a due proportion of the
oils to the falts, in the worts, but the advantage of long keeping
depends not only on the quantity of oils and hops the mufts
poffefs, but alfo on the fermentation being carried on in a How
and cool manner. The drinks, intended to be kept, are therefore
beft formed in cold weather, and made to receive their yeafl: at
fuch temperature, as is fet forth in the table. The quantity of the
ycaft is divided in proportion to that of the wort let down, un-
tiU
26o TI22 Practice (t/* B r e v;/ i n g.
till the whole, being mixed together, receives all its allotted
yeaft, except that part, which is put in juft before cleanfing.
Under thefe circumllances , drinks, which are brewed for
keeping, without the aiultance of precipitation, are fuffered
to go through the firft procefs of fermentation , till they arc
fo attenuated, that the liquor becomes light, and the head, or
the yeafl:, laying on the furface of the beer, begins to fink.
When this head has fallen \o nearly half its "-reafefl lieight, a
remarkable vinous fmell is perceived, and the liquor, at this
term, is to be put into cafks, being firll: well roufed with the
remaining part of the ycaft, in the manner mentioned in the
preceding fjdlion.
By the defcription given of the origin oi yeafl, it appears
that it is formed rather of the coarfer oils of the worts. If the
cleanfing is not done when the head is funk down to half the
greateft height, it rofe too, by falling lower^ fome part of
thefe coarfer oils return into the beer, then under fermentation,
and give it a fiat greazy tafte, technically termed yeajl bit-
ten. When, on the contrary, beers or ales are removed too
foon from the iirft tumultuous fermentation, for w^ant of hav-
ing been futficiently attenuated, and from not having depo-
lited their lees, nor thrown up in flowers their coarfer oils,
they are lefs vinous, than otherwife they would have been, but
appear heavy, aley, and are faid /;c/ to have their body f'iffi<^i-
ently opened.
The fermentation of common fmall beer is, through nc-
ceffity, carried on fo hafWy, that it is hardly poffible to wait
for
7%e Pra.cticeo/'Brewing. 261
for the figns, which direfl the cleaning of other beers. This
drink being generally brewcJ and fermented within twenty
four hours, its flate, with regard to fermentation, is beft jud-
ged of by the quantity of its froth or head at the time of cleanf-
ing, which, in proportion to the heat of the air, may be de-
termined by the following table.
A Table fliewing the proper quantity of head, which
common fmall beer £hould have to be properly
cleanfed, in every feafon of the year.
Htac head on the beer
of the air in the tun.
25 degrees - - - * 6 inches
30 ------ 5
35 4t
40 ------ 3 4,
45 a -:-
50 2
55 - 1 4^
60------ I
65 ^
70 4
75 - i
80 ----- - jufl: taken.
As it is chiefly by the adion of die air that wines are formed,
if we contrive to ihift this powerful agent on the furface of t
L I muft
262 The Practice ©/"BREwiNcr
muft under fermentation, and to convey it both more forcibly
and more haftily into it, its efficacy will be renewed, the fer-
mentation accelerated, the liquor quickly become tranfpareni,
and foon be brought to the ftate of maturity age might flowly
make it arrive at.
Amber, or pale ales, require very hot cxtrads to be render-
ed foft and fmooth to the palate ; but, as a continuation of ^
great degree of heat prevents fpeedy pellucidity, and ales do not
admit of any large quantity of hops, which would alter their
nature, there is a neceflity to perform haftily the act of fermen-
tation, and to carry it on to a higher degree than is common in
other malt drinks. As the method of exciting and conducing
repeated fermentations, with fuccefs, is perhaps not only the
moft diflicult, but the moft curious, part of the procefs, I fliall
conclude with an account of it, what I have to "fay with regard
to the pradtice of fermentation.
The amber wort being let down, at its proper degree of
heat, into the fermenting tun, out of the whole quantity of
yeaft allowed for this drink, in the table page 257, one gallon
muft be kept to be ufed as hereafter fliall be mentioned. Sup-
pofe that the heat of the air is at 40 degrees, and that eight
quarters of malt have been wetted for this purpofe ; tlie whole
of the yeaft required is 6 gallons, from which one is to be
referved. Of the five remaining gallons, one half, or two
gallons and a half are to be put to the wort on its firft coming
down, and of the laft 2 ■ gallons, about three quarts muft be
added
J'he pRACTICE^BREWINGi 265
added to the drink, every twelve hours, untill it ferments to tlic
highell: pitch of the period mentioned in article 5 page 259.
This fucceffive putting in of the yeaft is called feeding the
drink; about the time the head is got to this height, all the
• dirt or foul yeafl, that rifes on the furface, mufl be carefully
fkimmed off; it is ealily diltinguiflied fiom the pure white
froth, by its color, and by the finking of the head occafioned
by its weight. Length of time might attenuate fome of thefe
coarfer oils in a lefs artificial fermentation, but as this help is
wanted, and every obflacle to pellucidity is to be removed, the
brewer's attention to this point cannot be too great. At thi^
time, the referved gallon of yeaft is to be ufed, in order to give
to the ale a fufliclent power to bear the repeated fermentations
it is to undergo, by being beat in, every two hours, with a
jett or fcoope, for one quarter of an hour, fo that the head on
the drink be reduced to the leaft height it is capable of. This
ftriking in being continued, the drink will periodically require
it, and be damaged if it be neglefted. After it has undergone
more or lefs of thefe fermentations, in projx)rtion to the heats
of the worts and of the air, the brewer is carefully to obferve,
when the head ceafes to rife to Its accuftomed height, and
then to examine the drink, by having the jett filled with it at
•the bottom, and brought through the whole body to the top, a
fmall part of which being poured in an handgatherer, he will
fee whether the lees form tliemfelves in large white flakes and
readily fubfide, and be informed,- by the tafte, whether the fweet
of the. wort is gone of, and the ale become vinous, Wlien
L I 2 thefe
264 -^^ Practice of Brewing.
thefe two circumftances concur, the drink is to be beat in with
the jett as before, but not roufed as porter or other beers are,
for, by this management, the lees, which in this drink are in
greater quantity, would fo intimately be mixed with it, as with
difficulty to feparate themfelves. It is then time to cleanfe it ;
but the calks, more efpecially in fummer time, muft be well
filled up with clean drink, that is, part of the very drink,
which was cleanfed, av^oiding that produced in the fallings, as
this, for want of ftanding a lufficient time, is always yeafty,
and the jeaft, being greatly attenuated by the working of the
drink eafily diflblves in the ale, and renders it foul and ill
rafted.
As the brewing of ambtr well is looked upon as the highefl
pitch of the art of pale beer brewing, I have dwelt thereon more
than otherwife it might feem necefTary, to fliew the connexion
there is l^etween every fort of malt liquors, and to remove this pre-
judice, that an artift, by brewing well one kind of drink, is in-
capacitated of excelling in another. But, to return to our al?,
the fame method of fermenting it, is to be pradtifed, both win-
ter and fummer, varying only the quantities of yeafl: in propor-
tion to the feafon ; fo that whereas, in winter time, this drink
is fed with three quarts of yeaft, in every twelve hours, half a
gallon will be fiifficient in fummer. Though the procefs is
thus contrived to accelerate fermentation, yet the more coolly
and gently it is performed, the better will the ales be. I have
before hinted, that, if Madeira wines were fermented in this
manner.
7^^ Pr ACT ICE ^ B RE WIN G. 2^5
manner, they would fooner become fit for ufe, more efpeci-
ally, as they need no ferment to excite them. This method
•f fermenting drink has, indeed, been taxed with being un-
wholefome, but, upon what grounds, I could never difcover;
as no reafon of any moment has ever been alledged for this
aflertion.
SECTION
266 The Practice o/" Brewing.
SECTION XVII.
Of the SIGNS generally employed in the proceffes o/" BREW-
I N G, ajid tkeir comparifon •with the foregoing THE-
ORY and PRACTICE.
"^■t"-^-^- E have now broudat our barley wines into the caiks,
•< W J- and this, on principles which are agreeable- and con-
}^'«-v~*;s> fonant to each other. The charge of novelty may,
perhaps, ftill be alledged, to invalidate what has been offered.
It is but jufi: to pay fo much regard to a long and, upon the
whole, fuccefsful pradice, as to recite, if not all, at leaft the
principal, maxims, and figns in brewing, which hitherto have
guided the artifl:. By comparing thefe with the prefent me-
thod, they will not only illuftrate each other, but perhaps
caufe both to be better underftood; and though, with refpc<5l
to the art itfelf, this may be thought rather a curious than an
inftruftive part, yet we may learn from hence that fuch prac-
tice, which long experience has proved to be right, will al-
ways correfpond with true theory.
I . When a white four fettles, either in the iinderback or cop-
ferback, -which f77ieti?nes is the cafe oj a firjl extraSf, it is a
fare fgnt that fuch an extraSi has not been made fiificiently hot,
or in technical terms, that the liquor has been taken too ilack.
Malt, when dried, has it's oils made tenacious, in pro-
portion to tlip power of heat it has been affeded with ; the
grain.
7^^ P R A c T T c E c/" Brewing. 267
grain, tliough ground, if the water for the extraction is not
at leaft as hot, as what occafioned this tenacioufnefs, miift re-
main in great meafure undiflblvcd in the firfl extract, and
depofite itfelf as jnft now was mentioned.
2. The fir [I extraSl (Jmdd always have fome Jroth or head
in the undcrback.
The oils and falts of the malt, being duly mixed, form a
faponaceous body, the charader of which is that, on being
fhook,'it bears a froth, on it's furface.
3. The head or froth in the under back appearing red, blue
purple or fiery, fiews the liquors to have been taken too hot.
The more hot the water is, when applied to the malt, the
more muft the extra<51: abound with oils, and confequently be
more capable to refledt colors in a ftrong manner. But how
precarious this method of eftimating the quality of an extradl
is, in comparifon to that which the thermometer affords, will
appear from the following obfervation of Sir Ifaac Newton;
" faponaceous bubbles will, for a while, appear tinged with
" a variety of colors, \vhich are agitated by the external air,
" and thofe bubbles continue until fuch time as growing ex-
" celTive thin, by the water trickling down their fides, and
" being no longer able to retain the inclofed air, they burft".
Now as thefe bubbles vary in their denfity, in proportion to
their duration, the colors they relied muft alfo continually
change ; it is therefore, hardly poffible to judge of theconditionand
faponaceoufnefs of the extrads, by the appearance of their froth.
4. If 'hen
268 TJ^e Practice <>/'Brevving.
4. When the grijl feels Jlippery, it generally is a fgn that the
liquors fja-ce been taken too high.
This appearance proceeds from an over quantity of oil being
extraftcd, and this is the efFed of too much heat.
5. Beer ought always to work kind, out of the cajk, when
cleanfed, but the froth, in fummer time, (IjOidd he fomeijohat more
open than in winter.
The higher and hotter the extracting water is, the more
oils doth it force into the mufi: ; when a wort is full charg-
ed with oils, the fermentation is neither fo ftrong nor fo fpee-
dy, and confequently the firft froth, efpecialJy, is thin, open
and weak. This improves as the liquor is more attenuated,
and in fummer time, heat, which expands all bodies, muft
a6l in the fame manner on yeafi:, the principal part of which
is elaflic air.
However vague and indeterminate thefc iigns are, it would
not be impoflfible to bring them to fome degree of precifion ;
but as, upon the whole, they would ftill be much inferior to
the rules we have endeavoured to eflablifli, we think it unnecef-
fary to purfue any farther a refcarch rather more curious than
ufeful.
SECTION
The Practice ^Brewing. 269
SECTION XVIII,
An enquiry into what may be, at all times, a proper Jlock of
BEER, and the management oj it in the CELLARS.
,^«..i^ H E bufinefs of a brewer is not confined to the
y-' _ '■ /'- mere manufadlnre of his commodity; his con-
^.4- ..\..k cerns, as a trader, deferve no lefs regard, and, in
^—^ a treatife like this, fliould not be intirely omitted.
As it is a fault not to have a futTicient ftock of beers, in
the cellars, to ferve the cuflomers, it is one alfo to have more
than is needful. By the firft of thefe errors, the beers would
be generally new and ill difpofed for precipitation ; by the
other, quantities of ftale beer muft remain, which becoming
harder and harder, will at laft be unfit for ufe, unlefs blend-
ed with new brewed beers, to their detriment. Thefe faults, if
continued, may in time affe6l a \vhole trade, and ought there-
fore carefully to be avoided. For thefe reafons, the whole quan-
tity to be moved or expedtcd to be fupplied from the brewer's
flore cellars, during the (^ce of one twelvemonth, fhould be
calculated, as near as pofTible ; half this quantity ought to be
the ftock kept up from November to May inclufive, and nearly
one third part the ftock remaining in September. From hence
a table may be formed, by which it will be very eafy, at one
view, to know the quantity, that fhould be maintained at every
feafon of the year, and to avoid almoft every inconveniency,
M ra which
2 7© 5^^ Practice ^Brewing.
which otherwife muft arlfe. Suppofe for example, the number
of caflcs expeded to be moved in a year to be 320 butts and 248
puncheons, the flore cellars ought to be fupplied, as to time
and quantity, in the following proportion.
Butts puncheons.
January 160 - - - - 124
February 160 - - - - 124
Alarch . 160 - - - - 124
April 160 - - - - 124
May 160 - - - - 124
June ' 146 - - - - 113
July. 133 . . _ - 103
Auguft 120 - _ - - {^3
September • 107 - - - - 82
Odober 133 - - - - 103
November 160 - - - - 124
December -■■ 160 - - - - 124
After beers have been flarted in the cellars, the calks Ihould be
well and carefully flopped down, as foon as the repelling force
of fermentation is fo much lefTened, as not to be able to oppofe
this defign. Otherwife the elaflic air, which is the vivifying
principle of the drink, being loft, it would become vapid, and
fiat; and if left a long time in this condition, perhaps grow foui.
It has already been obferved, that cellars, in winter, are
more hot than the exterior air by i o degrees, and more cold
in fummer by 5 degrees. But bolides this general difference,
repoli-
Ithe Practice (t/Brewing. 271
repofitories of beer vary furprifingly in their temperature ;
from the nature of the foil in which they are built, from
their expofition to the fun , or from other incidental caufes.
As heat is a very powerful agent in accelerating fermentation,
it is by no means furprifing, not only that fome cellars do ripen
drinks much fooner than others, but alfo that a difference is often
perceived in the fame cellar. The perfons, intrufted with tlie
choice of beers, with which the cullomers are ferved, fhould
not be fatisfied to fend out their guyles, in the progreffive
order, in which they were brewed, but ought, on every oc-
cafion, to note any alteration, that happens in the drink, as
this is doing juftice both to the commodity, and to the con-
fumer, who has a conftant right to expert his beer in due
order.
jgj fe*** j&
@ ^®« @
^w^ ^
® 1®
Mm 2 SECTION
272 Ihe Practice 0/ B r e vv i n g.
SECTION XIX.
0/ PRECIPITATION and other REMEDIES, op-
flic able to the DISEASES /««Wf;;/ to BEERS.
•j5-**g!i^^K-;V o accident can be fo detrimental in cellars as leaky
^ N f or ftinking cafks, which lofe or fpoil tlie whole or
•l-^>«^g'-l part of the contained drink. The neceffity of hav-
ing, on thefe occafions, a remedy at hand was un-
doubtedly the reafon, why coopers were firft introduced in
ftore cellars. Conftant pradice might have qualified their pa-
fates fo, as to make them better judges of the (aftcs of wines
and beers, and to enable them to know which were the fitteft
for immediate ule. The preparing or forcing them for this fer-
vlce was a matter, which the profit gained by it made them
ready enough to undertake. The chymifts, whom they con-
fulted on this occafion, gave them fome informations, and by
thefe means, the coopers became the poffelTors of a few nof-
trums, the efFeds of which they were fuppofed to have ex-
perienced. But, as they are ignorant of the caufe of thefe efFcds,
and unacquainted with the conflituent parts of beers, it is not to
be expeded that their fuccefs fhould be conftant and uniform.
The brewer certainly knows beft, liow he formed the drink,
and ought confequently, in any diforder, to be prepared to di-
red the propereft remedy.
The intent of this trcatife has been to difcover the means, by
which
The Practiceo/ Brewing. 273
■which errors may be avoided. Chymical applications are in-
tended to remedy thofe errors, which may be occalioned either
by carelefhefs or accident. The wholefomenefs or propriety of
the applications, which will be indicated, muft be left to the
judgment of my readers; it is moft likely that there is fulTicient
room for improvement, and we might expedt it from thofe,
whofe profelTion it is to ftudy every thing, that may be condu-
cive to the fafety of mankind.
Whatever vegetables, wines are produced from, whenever
they deviate from the refpedllve perfedion, a well conduced
fermentation might have made them arrive at, they may be faid
to be diftempercd. Foulnefs or want of tranfparency, is not
the leafl: evil, but according to its degree it obtains various appel-
lations, and requires different helps. From what has been faid,
nothing can be more plain, than that it is always in our power,
to form beers and ales, which will be bright. Yet porter
or brown beer is conftantly fo brewed as to need precipitation ;
the reafons for this management have before been offered.
Were we to wait, till the liquor became tranfparent by age, a
more real diforder would enfue, than that of acidity. Precipitation
is then ferviceable, efpecially when beers are to be removed from
one cellar to another, a fhort fpace of time before they are to be
ufed. By being fhook, and the lees mixed with the liquor,
a flrong acid taftc is conveyed therein, and the power of
fubliding , which is wanted, renders forcing in that cafe
abfolutely neceflary. In beers brewed with high dried malts,
no flatnefs is occalioned thereby ; as the cafe is , under
like
2 74- ^'^^ Practice of Brewing.
like circumliances, with liquors produced from pale or low
dried grain. The degree of foulnefs in porter may however
be limited ; its bounds ought not to exceed the power of one
gallon of diffolved ifinglafs, to a butt. Ifinglafs is difTolved in ftale
beer, and ftrained through a fieve, fo as to be of the confifl-
ence of a jelly. The beer is fet in motion with a ftick, which
reaches one third part down the cafk, before and after this
jelly is put in, and a few hours are futlficient to obtain the de-
lired effect. We have before obferved, that this quantity of
jelly of ifinglafs is equal to a medium of 14 degrees drynefs in
the malt, and heat of the extrads. When the opacity exceeds
thi^ degree, the liquor is termed [liibborn ; the fame quantity of
difTolved ifinglafs repeated is often fufficient, in that cafe ; and,
if not, fix ounces of the oil of vitriol, are mixed with it. An
efTervefcence is, by this addition, produced ; the oils of the
drink become more attenuated, and the weight added fo the
precipitating matter, is z, means to render it more efficacious,
hiflead of the oil of vitriol, fix or eight ounces of the concrete
of vitriol pounded and mixed with the ifinglafs are fometimes
ufed with fuccefs.
A foulnefs in beer beyond that which is CdW^d Jlubbornefs^
gives to the drink the denomination of gray beer. This arifes
from the oils which float upon the furface, and which the li-
quor has not been able to abforbe. In this cafe, the fame me-
thods, as before mentioned, are repeated; thcquantity of diflblv-
ed ifinglafs is often incrcafed to three gallons, that of vitriol to
more than twelve ounces, and fometimes a fmall quantity of
aqua fortis is added to thefe ingredients.
The
*TJoe PracticE(?/'Brevving. 275
The next ftage of opacity is ckudinefs ; when the cooper con-
fefles, that the dirtcmper exceeds the power of his menlbuums,
and that his attempts extend no farther than to hide the evil-
Calcined treacle, from its acidity , is of feme fmall fervice,
and by coloring the drink foraewhat Icflens the grey dufky
hue thereon ; a quart of this is generally ufed in a butt. This
ingredient is called blacking ; and to prevent it to be known by
the confumer, the pradlice is to put thereon what is called a
good caiily flowered head. This might be done by ufing as much
pounded fait of fteel as will lay upon a fhilling, but the difle-
rence in price between this fait and copperas makes the laft ge-
nerally to be preferred. The ftrong froth on the top of the
pot, and that which foams about it, together with fomewhat
of a yellow caft, are often miftaken for the figns of a fuperior
merit, though in fadl they are thofe of deceit. A little reflec-
tion that the natural froth of beer cannot be yellow, nor conti-
nue a long time, efpecially if the liquor has fome age, would foon
cure mankind of this prejudice. Cloudy beers, under thefe cir-
cumftances, though not cured, arc generally confumed.
Beers become fick, from their having fo large a portion of
oils, as to prevent the free admiffion of the external air into
them. The want of this enlivening element makes them ap-
pear flat, though not vapid. Such beers fhould not, ifpoffible,
be brought immediately into ufe, as age alone would effedl their
cure. But when this cannot be complied with, every means
that will put the beer upon the fret, or under a new fermenta-
tion, mufl be of fervice. By pitching a butt head over head,
the
276 The Practice o/'Brewing.
the lees of the beer, which contain a large proportion of air,
being mixed again with the drink, help to bring on this adion,
and to remove thQ/icknefs.
Burnt hartfhorn fhavings, to the quantity of two penny worth
put into a butt, are often of ufe.
Balls made with eight ounces of the fincft flower, and knead-
ed with treacle, convey likewife air to the drink, and promote
its brifknefs.
Beers, by long landing, often acquire fo powerful an acid,
as to become difagreeable. The means of correding this defe<S
is by alkaline, or teflaceous fubftanccs, and in general by all
thofe which have the property of abforbing acids. To a butt
of beer in this condition, from four to eight ounces of calcined
powder of oyAer fhelJs may be put, or from lix to eight ounces
of fait of wormwood. Sometimes a penny worth or two of
whiting is ufed, and often twenty or thirty ftones cf unflacked
lime ; thefe are better put in feparatcly than mixed with the
ifinglafs.
In proportion as beers are more or lefs forward, from two to
four ounces of fait of wormwood and fait of tartar, tog-ether
with one ounce of pounded ginger, are fuccefsfully employed.
Two pounds of hops boiled in fome of the drink, eight
ounces of calcined oyfter fhells, and as many of bean flower,
kneaded with fome of the liquor into a palle, and dropp'd In-
to the cafk, will mellow and foften the beer. The fooner
the effl-d is intended to lake place, the Hacker the parte muft
be
fhe Practice 0/ Brewing. 277
be made. As all thefe fubftanccs abforbc acids, they, at the
fame time, leave a liatnefs in the liquor.
Sometimes in fummer, when beer is wanted for ufe, we find
it on the fret ; as it is then in a repelling ftate, it does not give
Tray to the finings, fo as to precipitate. In tliis cafe about two
ounces of cream of tartar are mixed with the ifinglafs, and if
this is not fullicient, four ounces of oil of vitriol are added to the
finings next ufed, in order to quiet the drink.
Some coopers attempt to extend their art fo far as to add
ftrength to the beer ; but let it be remembered that the princi-
pal conftituent parts of beer fliould be malt and hops. When
rtrength is given to the liquor by any other means, its nature is
altered, and it is no more beer that we drink. Treacle in large
quantities, half an ounce of the berries of the Cocculus Indicus^
of the grains of paradife, or of the Indian ginger pounded fine,
and mixed with a precipitating fubilance, are faid to produce
this extraordinary ftrength.
To helgthen the flavor of the drink , half an ounce of
grains of paradife pounded are ufed, and this, in my opinion,
h the leaft hurtful ingredient among them.
Formerly brown beers were required to be of a very dark
brown, inclinable to red. As this color could not be procur-
ed by malt properly dried, the jui-e of elder berries was fre-
quently mixed with the ifinglafs. But this juice feems now to
have given way to the calcined fugar ; both arc needlefs, when
N a the
278 The Practice ^t/'Brevving.
the malt and hops have been properly chofe, and applied \o
their intended piirpofe.
Such arc the remedies chiefly made ufe of for brown beers.
Drinks formed from pale malts arc always fnppofcd to become
fpontaneoully fine, and when they are fo, by being bottled,
they are faved from any farther hazard. As it is impoflible
for any fermented liquor to be abfolutely at reft, the reafon
of beers being preferved by this method is that, by it, more
than by any other means, they are deprived of a communication
with the air, and without rifk, gain all the advantages, which
age, by flow degrees, can procure, and art can never imitate.
Were we as curious in our ales and beers as we are in the li-
. quors imported, did we but give, to the product of our own
country, the fame care and attendance which we beftow on
wines ; we might enjoy them in a perfedion, at prefent fcarce-
ly known, and perhaps caufc foreigners, to eftcem our beers,
as much as we do their wines.
• it"*! 9
^ •^-- ^
SECTION
7'/)e Practice of Brewing. 279
S E C T I O N XX.
- 0/TASTE.
©;^~.=^5t.0 OCTOR Grew, who has treated of this matter,
^ "f'r'f" f divides tafte into fimple and compound ; he men-
j^ ^ »-fJ!- S^ tions the different fpecies of the firft, and calculates
^■■*!^c^^^0 the various combinations of the latter, the number
of which exceeds what at firft might be expeded. Without
entering in this detail, I think that the different taftes refiding
in the barlics, or formed by their being malted, and brewed
with hops, may be reduced to the following ; the acid, which
is a fimple tafte ; the fweet, which is an acid fmoothed with
oils; the aromatic, which is the compound of a fpirituous acid,
and a volatile fulphur ; the bitter, which, according to our au-
thor, is produced by an oil well impregnated either with an al-
kaline or an acid fait, fliackled with earth ; the auftere, which
is both aftringent and bitter ; and laflly the naufeous and rank,
which is, at leaft in part, fomc times foundin beers, which have
either been gready affeded by fire, or by long age have loft
their volatile fulphurs, and have nothing left but the thicker
and coarfer oils, refcmbling the empyreumatic dregs of dillilled
liquors not carefully drawn.
The number of circumftances, on which the tafte of fer-
mented liquors depends, are -fo various, that perhaps there
never was any two brewings, or any two vintages, which pro-
N n 2 duced
2S0
The Practiceo/'Brewing. I
duced drinks exadly fimilar in tafte. But in this as well a$
in. other things, varieties may be reduced under fome general
claffes; the better to diftinguifh thefe, let us enquire, which
taftes belong to different malt liquors, according to the fevc-
ral circumftances in which they arc brewed.
In beers and ales, the acid prevails in proportion as the
malt has been lefs dried, and heat was wanting in the ex-
trading water. The fweet will be the efFedl of a ballancc
preferved between the acids and the oils. Wlien , by the
means of hotter water, oils more tenacious arc extracted from
the grain, the tafte becomes higher in relifh, or aromatic.
If the heat is ftill increafed, the greateft part of the acids, and
the moft volatile oils, will be diflipated, and the bitter of th*
hops appear more diftindtly. A greater degree of fire will im-
prefs the liquor with an auftere, rough or liarfh tafle ; and a
heat beyond this charrs or burns the particles of the grain, and
extrads the empyreumatic and naufcous oils. Befides heat, there
may be other caufes, which produce fome variation in thefe
tafles ; as a fuperior drynefs in the hops ; an irregularity in the
ordering of the heat of the extrads ; too great an impetuolity or
flownefs in the fermentation ; the difference of time in which
the drink is kept ; but as thefe caufes affe6l the liquor, in a
low degree, in comparifon to the drj'ing and extrading heats
of the grain, an enquiry into their confequenccs is not abfo-
lutely material.
Beers or ales, formed of pale malt, in which a greater por-
tion of acids is contained , with lefs tenacious oils , are not
only
The Practigi ^Brewins.^ iSi
•nly more proper to allay thirft, but in general more aro-
matic, than brown drinks. The oils of thefe lafl: being, by
the effed of fire, rendered more compact, and more tenacious
of the terreftrial parts raifed with them, are attended with fome-
thing of an auftere and rank tafte. This feems to be the rea-
fon, why brown beers require more time, after they have been
fermented, to come to their perfcdion. The air, little by little,
foftens afid attenuates thefe oils, and by caufing the heterogeneous
particles to fubfide, makes them at laft, unlefs charring heats
have been ufed, pleafing to the palate, whereas they were be-
fore auftere^ rank and naufeous.
By means of the thermometer, we have endeavoured to fix
the different colors of malt, the duration of the principal forts
of drink, and the tendency each has to become tranfparejjt.
The fame inftrument cannot probably have the fame ufe, when
applied to diftinguifli the different tafles, as thefe depend on
a variety of caufes not eafy to be afcertained. Yet fomething
of this nature may be attempted, upon the following prin-
ciples.
As the chief circumftance , which produces a variety of
taftes in malt liquors, is fire or heat adlng on the malt
and hops, and the effed of the air, put in motion by the
fame element, the table here fubjoined may point out what
taftes are in general occafioned by the combination of thefe
two caufes,
A Taelj
282 7he Practice ^/Brewing.
A Table determining the taftes of malt liquors.
Heat of the
lir
dr
yneft
anc
extrafting beat
predominant taftes
So"
-
.
-
-
119- -
-
- -
Acid
76
-
-
-
-
124 -
-
— •
ac. ac. fweet
73
-
-
-
-
129 -
-
-
ac, fw.
70
-
-
-
-
134 -
-
- -
ac. fw. fw. bitter
66
-
-
-
-
138 -
-
-
fw. fw. bit.
63
-
-
-
-
143 -
-
- -
fw. bit.
60
-
-
-
-
148 -
-
-
bit. bit. aromatic
56
-
-
-
-
152 -
-
-
bit. arom.
SI
-
-
-
-
157 -
-
- -
bit. arom. aufterc
50
_
-
_
_
162 -
-
•>
arom. aufl:. auft.
46
-
-
-
-
167 -
-
- -
auft. aufi:. naufcous
43
-
-
-
-
171 -
-
- -
aufl:. nau.
40
-
-
-
-
176 -
-
- -
naufeous.
The firll column of the table fliews the fermentable dei^rees
reverfcd, as the hotter the feafon is, the more fermented
drinks tend to acidity, the direft contrary of which is the con-
fequence of an increafe in the heat, malt or hops are dried or
extraded with.
The affiftance of this table, though fmall, ought perhaps
not to be intirely flighted, as it feems at leaft to fhew that the
nfeful is feldom feparated from the pleafing, and that a medium
between extremes is moft agreeable both to llie operations of
nature, and the conftitution of our organs.
The
7lje Practice^/ Brewing. 283
The imprefllon<; of taftes are lefs in proportion as the drinks
are weak. The ftrongcft v. ine yields the moft acid vinegar.
Time wears away this acidity much fooner, than it doth the
^naufeoufnefs occaiioned by vehement heats. This circumftance
Ihews how neceflary it is, in the beginning of the procefs of
brewing, to avoid extrads which are too weak, and, in its
conclufion, fuch as too great a heat would render rank and dif-
agreeable. That proportion between the falts and the oils,
which conllitutes true faponaccoufnefs, is moft pleafing to the
tafte, and fcems to be the utmoft perfedion of the art. As the
fun never occafions a heat capable of charring the fruits of the
vine, we never meet with wines, endued with a tafl:e refem-
bling to the empyreumatic, which we have here reprefented.
This error, being inexcufable in any liquor, ought carefully to be
o-uarded againfl:, and from what we have here faid we may
learn this important truth ; that nature is the beft guide, and
that, by following her operations, we fhall never be difappointcd
in our ends.
APPENDIX.
APPENDIX.
THOUGH this work has already been carried to a great
length, I hope thofe of my readers, who may have
done me the honor to go attentively through the whole of it,
will pardon me the addition of a few incidental thoughts and
queries. The chain of arts is fo well conneded, that re-
fearches originally intended for the illuftration of any one of
tJiem, can hardly fail of throwing fome light upon others.
I . The feed of plants cannot be put in a fitter place, for
pcrfedl vegetation, than when buried under ground, at a depth
fullicient to defend the young fhoots from the viciflTitudcs of
heat and cold, and the difadvantages of too much moifture.
The manuring of the earth, and the flecping the feed into
folutions of falls or calcined fubftances, have been found, in
ibme cafes, to incrcafc the ftrength of the grain, to correfl: its
original defefts, and to prevent the noxious imprcfiions of a
vicious ground. Plants aie made to germinate in water alone,
and this experiment fo fuccefsfully carried on every winter,
in warm apartments, may iVdl be improved hy difToIving
alkaline falts in the wa:cr. Conid the barley i.fjd for malt-
O o ino-
286 APPENDIX.
ing be put in the ground, its growth would be more natural,
and its oils becoming more mifcible with water, by the falinc
nourifliment derived from the eartJi, might yield more vinous,
more ftrong, and more lafting liquors. But as this method is
imprafticable, would it be impoffible to increafe the efficacy
of that which is ufed ? Might not 'lime be added to the w-ater,
with which The grain is nioifterted ? Is it not ufed with fuccefs
to manure land ? Is not a folution of it in water employed
by the farmer to fteep his fowing feed in ? Might it not at-
tract many ufelefs acids from the grain, and poffibly from the
Avater itfelf, as it doth (hofe of the fugar ? 1 barely mention
tins as one of the fubflances, that might be imployed in the
malting of barley, and am far from thinking it the only one.
Perhaps different falts fliould be ufed, according to the nature
of the foil, from which the corn was produced ; but a va-
riety of experiments feems to be required, in order to difco-
ver how far art might in this cafe imitate and, improve na-
ture.
2. A fmall quantity of malt, at all times, but efpecially when
brewed in large veffels, parts too readily with the heat which
cxtradion requires ; and ©n the contrary, that heat may be
continued too long, if the quantity of malt be very great and
not fufficiently fpread. A forward beer inclinable to acidity
often refults from too fhort a grilt, a thick, ftubborn, and
rank liquor is produced from too large one. Every advan-
tage may be had in brewing, properly, five or fix quarters of
malt ; it is difficult to fucceed if tlie number exceeds fifty.
3- The
APPENDIX. 287
3. The ftrong pungent volatile fplfit, which exhales from
a muft, when under full fermentation, has in general been
fuppofed to be a lofs, which might be prevented ; and accord-
ingly attempts have been made to retain thefe flying impetu-
ous particles, by flopping the communication between the at-
mofphere and the fermenting drink. That there is a difperfion of
fpirits is beyond doubt, and that thefe exhaling vapors confift of
the fineft oils, which the heat forces out of the muft, is equally
certain. But this lofs feems to be abundantly fupplied by the ftronger
oils, which the fame degree of heat attenuates and fubftitutes,
in a larger quantity, to the former. The laft oils could never come
under the form of a vinous liquor, but by a power, which
fooner or later difTipates fome of the firft. Pale ales or amber not
only lay, for many days, expofed to the open air, but fuffer, by
the periodical renewal of the aftion of the air, every two or four
hours, a much more confiderable lofs of fpirits, than when fer-
mentation is carried on uniformly. Yet experience fliews,
^■hat fo many oils are, by this method, attenuated, diat the
ll:ren°-th acquired gready furpaflcs that which is loft.
4. The pradice of fermenti:ig by comprrjfion, recommended
to diftillers, feems, on this account, lefs ufeful, than it might be
concluded to be from theory, fmce the intent of the diftilleras well
as of the brewer is to extradl the greateft quantity of fpirituous
■gils. It is impoflTible to ferment a muft ?'« Vixuo ; air is abfo-
lutely neceflary for carrying on this operation, and even a fu-
perabundant quantity of oils, by obftruding the free admiffion
of the air, impedes fermentation, prevents the wine from be-
O o 2 coming
288 A P P E N D I X.
coming pellucid, and fometimes may in part render it pu-
trid.
5. When the pureft fpirlt is intended to be drawn from
the grain, the fermented wafli ought to be fuffered to fettle, till
it becomes tranfparent. The difpatch, with w^hich the diHil-
lery is generally carried on, prevents this ufcfiil circumflancc
taking place, and occalions a want of vinolity in the liquor. In
many cafes, the extraordinary charges of extrading the grill: in
the manner, which has been direded for drinks intended long to
be kept, and of fuffering the mafli to become fpontaneoufly
tranfparent, might be abundantly repaid. Yet, if hurry iv.uil
be a part of the dilliller's bufinefs, he fhould at leaft make
fuch extradions as admit of the fpeediefl: and readieft fermentati-
on. He cannot expecSl cornfplrits equal to the brandies of France,
iinlefs his worts are fimilar to the wines dillilled in that kine-
dom. He would therefore fecure to himfelf the greatell: pro-
bability of fuccefs, did he regulate his extrafts by fuch heats
as have been fixed for fmall beer , efpecially as the length
iifed in diflillery is nearly the fame. The omiiTion of the
hops would render fuch mufts fit for the ftiil, immediately af-
ter fermentation. By too ftrong heats, more oils are forced
into the mufi: than can be converted in fpirits ; and fermen-
tation being, by this over charge, in fome meafure, clogged
and impeded, a lefs yield is made, and a liquor obtained of
a rank and often cmpyreumatic tafte.
5. Why
APPENDIX. 2S9
5. Why are the brandies of Spain infeiiur to thofe prepar-
ed in France ? The wines of the laft country arc tlie growth
of a weaker fun ; they contain no more oils than can be niTi-
milated by fermentation, and form a clean dry nutty f})irit.
The Spanifh wines abounding with more oleaginous than
■acid, parts, this over proportion becomes not only ufelefs but
hurtful in the flill , and produces the ranknefs obferved in
Spanifh brandies. The cleannefs of the fpirit arifes in great
meafure from the weaknefs of the mufb, and its vinofity from
the due proportion of the oils to the falls. This feems to be
the reafon why the moft grateful fpirits are produced, from
wines unable to bear the fea or to be long kept.
6. The native fpirits of vegetables, fays Boerhaave, are fe-
parated by heats between 94 degrees and 212. To obtain the
whole of thefe, the fire mull: be gradually increafed j for a fu-
perior heat diffi pates the fpirits raifed by an inferior one. Such
parts as might be obtained by 100 degrees are loft if the heat
applied be much greater. Though the parts of vegetables im-
nierfed in water cannot fo eafily be diffipated as if they were in
open air, yet, by the rarefadion of the liquid, a proportional
evaporadon muft infue, and the oils raifed by a greater heat
may {o efFedually envelope the finer ones, as to make them
hardly perceptible either to our fmell or tafte. Thus, though
heated water is able to extraft all the virtues refiding in the
vegetables, the different application of the iire will alter, not
only their proportions, but perhaps their properties alfo.
7. The
29® APPENDIX.
7. The vinegar maker is equally concerned with the dlftil-
ler in the brewing procefs. Vinegar is produced by the laft
ftage of fermentation, when a grofs, tartareous, unduous mat-
ter, confifting of the coarfer oils extracted either from the grain
or the grapes, generally falls to the bottom of the liquor, and
no longer prevents its acidity, or affeds its flavor. Though
the beft vinegar proceeds either from the ftrongeft wines or
beers, this rtrength coniifts in the quantity of fermentable prin-
<:iplcs, and not in that of mere oleaginous parts. By properly
adapting the extrading waters, this hurtful impediment may be
removed, and the vinegar from malt liquors become as neat
and as ftrong as that, which is extraded from wine.
8. As the acid tafl:e of vinegar is the effed of a continued
fermentation, many people have thought it immaterial liow
fpeedily the firfl parts of the operation were carried on. But
violent fermentations not only difTipate fome of the fine oils,
which fliould be retained in the vinegar, but alfo caufe the
mull to tend towards pufrefadion. Boerhaavc, after lie has
direded a frequent tranfvafion of the liquor, obferves that, when-
ever the weather or the worlchoufe is very hot, it is oftan ne-
ccfTary to fill the half emptied vciTcls every twelve hours,' not
only to procure a fupply of acids from the air, but alfo t»
cool the wine, and check the too violent fermentation, w Inch
arifing in the half full cafks, might difilipate the volatile foi-
rits before they are properly fecured and intangled by the
acid. Hence the liquor might be fower indeed, but at the
fame time flat, and would never become a fliarp and llrong vi-
negar, 9. Ufcs
APPENDIX. 291
9 Ufes have frequently been found for materials, which be-
fore were fuppofed of no value. The grains, after the brewer
has drawn his worts out of them, are generally employed for
the feeding of cattle ; but I do not know that hops, after their
boiling, have been put to any farther ufc. Is there nothing
more left in this vegetable, after it has imparted the virtue wanted
to the beer ? All plants burnt in open air yield alkaline falts,
though in a greater cr lefs quantity, according to the quality of
the plants. Boerhaave fays that thofe, which are auftere, acid,
or aromatic, yield in their aflies a great abundance of falts, and
that thcfe being put in fufion, and mixed with flint or fand run
into glafs. Hops thrown, after decodion, in no great quan-
tity on the fire, caufe the coals to vitrefy, of as it is generally
termed, to run into clinkers. If therefore the remains of the
hops were burnt in open air , or in a proper furnace , it
feems mofl: likely that no inconfiderable quantity of fomewhat
like potafhes might be obtained, and this, confidering the
many tun weight of hops employed in large cities, and thrown
away as ufelefs, might become an objed of private emolument
to the brewer, and of public benefit to the nation.
FINIS.
■\
1
[ 293 ]
INDEX.
A
A.
I R, Page.
neceflary to fermenta-
tion - - - iy,ti
why it flacks malt 19
not eafily expelled from
bodies - - - 20
expelled from worts by
long boiling - 66
its mean heat in London
throughout the year 122
difference of its heat from
4 to 8 o'clock in the
Jmber.
morning
129
161
B.
Backs, being fet , what rcafon
of it - - - - 249
Barley, defined - - - 71
vifcous and replete with
acids - - - 72
Barley, confequence of its being
germinated - p. 72
its ftate in the field 73
the effedt of its heating in
the mow - - - 74
by what heat its vegetative
power diftroy'd - 74
if mow-burned unfit for
malting . - . y^
howmuch it lofes by mak-
ing 81
Biers , why depofited in cel-
lars - - - 37,57
why beft brewed in the
pureft air - - - 68
Bird, his Thermometers - 33
Body of a wort not fuffitient'y
opened, what - 260
Boilings table fliewing the time re-
quired in every feafon 1S8
Brewing,
feafon, its limits 12 r
P p Brew-
294
INDEX.
Bre'^ing, two procefles comput-
ed - p. 219 to 230
Brandies of France and Spain,
their difference 289
Brown ale, _ - - - 162
ftout, - - - - 163
Burton ale. - - - - 162
C.
Cellars, their temperature 130
Cleanjing,
>*' keeping beers - 259
common fmall beers 261
amber - - 264
Cloudy beers, which fo, and how
treated - - - 'J.ys
Cold,
the greateft in and about
London - - 120
Cooling in, what termed fo in the
brewery - - 204
Coppers, their gauges. - i8i
D.
Divijion of the water for a brew-
ing - 195 to 198
Dorcbefter beers. - - 194
Earth,
defined
29
Earth, fometimes nectflary in pre-
cipitation - - p. 29
Effervefcence, its effeift - 2-^6
table of - 237
Expanjion,
of water juft boiling 24
an exception to the ge-
neral rule in the note ■ 1 4
Extra5ls, over and under heated
fliew fimilar figns 26
Extra£lion,
defined - - 133
four different modes ufed
in brewing 133, 134
of keeping pale ftrong
and keeping pale fmall
138
of common fmall and
brown ales - 141
of porter or brown
beers - - 154
of amber. - - 160
Fermentation, defined - 49
its feveral ftages ob-
ferved - 49 to 54
its etfefls - 60
the term too gene-
rally applied 60
artificial, defined 62
Feruen-
INDEX.
295
Fermentation, its figns and effeds
p. 258,265
Ferments^ what - - 6^
Fire,
expands all bodies - 14
how it ftrengthens feme bo-
dies - - - 15
loofens the texture of male 15
preferves bodies - 16
the efFefls of its different de-
grees - - - »6
Hn/«_^, of beers - - 274
Flowers of wine, what. - 252
G.
Grapes, their feveral taftes from
their firft ftare to their be-
ing ripe
41
under what heat firft pro-
duced and ripened 41,44
why not produced at Ja-
maica, Barbadoes, C^c. 44
their conftituent parts 47
Gray kers, which fo, and how
treated - - ^74
Grinding. - - - 131
H.
Hard corns, heat in mafhes occa-
fioned thereby - 239
Heat,
dilTolves more parts then
water can contain p. 24
Heat, medium of London 17
the difference between the
fliadeand fun's beers 43, 130
the greateft in an about
London in the fliade 120
its divifion into the worts
and malhes - 197
Hops, check, the hady fermen-
tation of malts - 6j
their va'ue expreiTrd in de-
grees - - lya
their quantity for brown
bters - - 171
their quantities for common
fmall beer - - 172
their quantities for amber 1 73
their quantities for burton
ales - - 174
may be made ufcful in ex-
traflion - - 175
a calculation to regulate the
purchafe of them - 175
boiled their volume efti-
mated - - 182
whether no ufe could be
made of them after having
been boiled in the worts. 291
P p 2
Incidents,
296
INDEX.
I.
Incidtntu
Page
occafioned by variation
in the heat of the air 129
in brewing - - 234
I/tnglafs, ... 7
what its ufe and appli-
cation. - 274
L.
Lees cf wine, what - - 252
Zf«^//^j, of common fmall beer 179
of keeping fmall beer 1 79
of amber, or pale ale i yg
of brown beer, or por-
ter - - 179
of burton ale. - 179
M.
Malts, alter in color, the more
they are dried - 38
the firft degree that con-
flitutes them - - 86
at what heat they cbarr 8y
efFe(fl different degrees of
heat^has upon them 88
the procefs of malting y6
uncapabk of letainingmore
fire than what is in the ex-
ternal air - - 80
Malls, cannot fuccefsful !y be made
in hot weather - p. 84
defeftive fome account of
them - 105 to III
its virtue contained in an
amazingfmallcompafs zi8
Majhes, their loft heat - 238
Majljing, length of time for. 233
Old hock,
N.
P.
'65
8
Precipitation, what.
R.
Rain, which meft fruitful. 43
S.
Saponaceoufnefs,
table of its degrees ufed in
brewing - - 137
Sick beers, how treated - 275
5/(3/i? i^^r5, how treated - 276
Stubborn beers , which fo called
and how treated - 274
Spirits of malt, how to be made
equal to thofe of wine 288
Spirits
I N D
X.
297
spirits pungent, exhaling from a
fermtrnting muft, P- 287
native of vegetables at
what heat feparatcd. 289
T.
Tafie^ realons of the difference in
malt liquors - - 279
Thermometer,
when known in England 30
afTifts to difcover the heat
of bodies when blended to-
gether - - 35, 36
difcovers the ftrength of a
wort - - 38
the quality of hops. 38
V.
Volume, of one barrel of water
compared to malt 215
Vinegar, of beer, how to be im-
proved fo as to become
equal to that of wine 290
the bcft made from the
ftrongeft liquors. ibid
W.
IVaJle water, for brown ftrong and
pale ftrong - 191
for keeping fmall and com-
mon fraall - - 191
for amber or pale ales p. 191
Wajie water, keeping fmall or, com.
mon fmall after amber 191
Water,
becomes of equal heat with
the air - - 19
at what degree changes to
ice - - - 19
boi!ed, its appearance when
froze - - - 20
which makes the ftrongeft
cxtrads - - 10
being light, a good proper-
ty - - - 22
great quantities evaporated
in brewing - 23, 206
neceflfary to fermentation
25, 2S7
excellency of drinks too of-
attributed to - 27
its divifion into the worts
and mafhes - iQ4roi98
boiling, the proper ftate and
time to be cooled into 235
Wines,
their general dtSnition 40
Madeirafomeacccunt there-
of - - - 46
Tockay and Canary men-
tioned - - 42
Wines,
29S INDEX.
^/»^j, the mofl: certain fign of their boiling of worts - p. 20
wholefomenefs - p. 68 Teajl, under what degrees of heat
Worts, it adls - - 348
fometimes overhop'd 25 quantities to be ufcd in
their height in coppers caft
up, to fix the length 183
the heat they Ihould be let
down, to ferment. - 251
X.
0
Y.
TeaJl,
reimplaces the air loft by
FINIS.
fmall beer
-
-
255
in keepir
'g
ftrong
and
porter
-
256
in ales or
amber
257
bitten, what.
-
260
z.
E R R A r J.
Part I. Page 36, line 6, dele itf« + f, f- 51, A if, ior foon readj»#«r, /. 109, /.
7, for heated read luetted.
Part II. Pa^? 117, /;'«? 18, for luarts read extraHs, p. 119, /. i, dele /a^/j, /. 147,
I. 1, for 10 iMt. read 10 <* w/. p. 147, A 7, for 3 10/. read 3 M. ov/. /. 174,
A 6, for i«/ir< read he/ore, p. 191, /. 7, for 1,4, per quarter read I, 3, per quar'
ter, f, 201, A tf, for 24, 30, read 24,00, p. 221, /. 15, for 15^ read 16, p. 224*
/. 16, for 158,0,50, read 1^80,50, . 235, A 10, for as much read as near p'
237, A 21, for notwithftan-i read ■xv;r,6, ^. 243, /. 3, for 138, read 130, /. 243*
A 7, for 20,26, read 10,26, p. 253, A 6, after yield dele ap. 262, laft line for
I galloni xtid z gallons {, p. 274, A 21, iov fiubborne/i tt&di JJuihtrn,
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