Towns of New England and Old England, Ireland and Scotland ...: Containing Narratives ...

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TOWNS of NEW ENGLAND

AISID

®^ Cnslanb

IRELAND and SCOTLAND

Tart I

k

J i

I i

£ .9

g|

a 6

i>

I 1

TOWNS

OF

NEW ENGLAND

AND

0lh Cnglanb,

IRELAND a;id SCOTLAND

Jk%> TA%T I ^

Connecting Links between Cities and Towns
of New ENGI.AND and Those of the Same
Name in England, Ireland and Scotland

Containing Narratives, Descriptions,

and Many Views, some done

from Old Prints

jmMu

Also much Matter pertaining to

W^t Jf ounberfi! anb ^ettlerfi! ot ^etD €nslanb

and to their Memorials on both sides of the Atlantic

W^ritten by Allan Forbes and

Printed to Commemorate The Tercentenary of

THE LANDING of the PILGRIMS

PUBLISHED BY

^. $. $utnam'£i ^onsi

NEW YORK AND LONDON
MCMXXI

ThisWock

wai planned and prepared

by direction and under the auspices of

Tte Statb Steeet Tkust Company

Botton. Massachusetts

U.S. A.

NAiVAftO COLLEGIA UttMST

FROM THC

EDII(AROS.HAWCSCSMIi

194S

The general treatment of the cover design
is an adaptation of title-page designs of the
period of James I, who was King of England,
Scotland and Ireland at the time of the Pilgrim
movement. The use of the thistle and the rose, sym-
bolizing the union of Scotland and England, was common
during that period. The Coat of Arms at the top of the
design is that of Great Britain as used under the Stuarts. The
original Coat of Arms formally adopted by Edward III in 1340,
quartered the lilies of France with the leopards of England, the Irish
haxp being added by Henry ^11, and the lion of Scotland by the Stuarts.
Dieu et Mon Droit'' was the battle-cry of Richard I at Gisors in the year
1 195, signifying that he was subject not to France, but to God akme. He
adopt«i it for the motto of the Arms of England. Edward HI b
responsible for the motto, " Honi Soit Qui Mai Y Pense," which is also
the motto of the Order of the Garter. The Seal at the baseof the
colunms upon either side b that of the Plymouth Colony. The
lower portion of ^ doign between the pillars gives an exact
represenUtion of the tablet inscribed '^Bfayflower, 1620,"
which marks the spot on the Barbican in Plymouth,
England, frcHn iHuch the Pfkrims embariLed in the
"Mavflower." A drawing of a ship of that period
is placed in the doign directly boow this tablet.

ComioaT, 19M

wt na

STATB STREET TRUST COMPANY

U.S. A.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

PAGE

Andover, Massachusetts 43

Barnstable, Massachusetts 46

Bath, Maine 50

Belfast, Maine 58

Beverly, Massachusetts 62

Bristol, Maine, Rhode Island and New Hampshire 68

Cambridge, Massachusetts ^ 74

Chatham, Massachusetts v •* 82

Chelmsford, Massachusetts . . . . ^ . ^ 87

Dartmouth — New Bedford — Bedford, Massachusetts 93

Dedham, Massachusetts 104

Dorchester, Massachusetts iii

Dublin, New Hampshire 1 24

Falmouth, Massachusetts 127

Gloucester, Massachusetts 130

Groton, Massachusetts 144

Hartford, Connecticut 150

Harwich, Massachusetts 158

Hingham, Massachusetts 162

Melrose, Massachusetts 170

Northampton, Massachusetts 175

Norwich, Connecticut 181

Pljrmouth and Southampton, Massachusetts 17

Portsmouth and Rye, New Hampshire 186

Sandwich, Massachusetts 194

Wareham, Massachusetts 201

Woodstock, Vermont and Connecticut 205

Worcester, Massachusetts 208

Yarmouth, Massachusetts 216

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE

Plymouth, Massachusetts Frontispiece

Map of England showing English Towns mentioned in Part I . Opposite Foreword

POgrim Fathers Memorial, Southampton, England i6

Barbican, Plymouth, England 20

Mayflower Tablet 20

Tablet and Inscription on the Wall of the Barbican, Plymouth, England 22

Plymouth Hoe, Plymouth, England 23

Tablet placed near the Supposed Landing Place of the Pilgrims, Provincetown, Massa-
chusetts 24

Pilgrim Memorial Tower, Town HiU, Provincetown, Massachusetts 25

Plymouth Rock, Plymouth, Massachusetts 26, 28

Burial Hill, Plymouth, Massachusetts 29

Pilgrim Monument, Plymouth, Massachusetts 30

Remains of the Wreck of the English Vessel " Sparrowhawk " 31

Leyden Street, Plymouth, Massachusetts 32

Present View of Leyden Street 34

Delfshaven, Holland 35

Arrival of the N. C. 4 at Plymouth, England 37

Walls of Southampton, England 39

West Gate, Southampton, England 40

Water Gate, Southampton, England 41

Brechin Hall, Andover Theological Seminary, Andover, Massachusetts 43

Upper Clatford Village, near Andover, England 44

Chancery Street, Andover, England 44

Parish Church of St. Peter and St. Paul, Barnstaple, England 47

Barnstaple, England, showing the Bridge 48

Sacrament Rock, Barnstable, Massachusetts 48

Sir John and Lady Popham Monument in the Parish Church, Wellington, England ... 51

Popham Memorial 52

Fort Popham and Site of Popham Memorial at the Mouth of the Kennebec River .... 53

"Doughboys'* at Roman Baths, Bath, England 54

Bath, England 56

The Royal Crescent, Bath, England 56

Belfast, Ireland 59

High Street, Belfast, Ireland, 1786 60

Castle Place, Belfast, Ireland, 1843 61

Cloth Shield in rooms of Liberty Lodge, Beverly, Massachusetts 63

Reply of Thanks from Beverley, England 63

Beverley Minster, Beverley, England 64

North Bar, Beverley, England 65

Market Place, Beverley, England 66

Cabot Tower, Brandon Hill, Bristol, England 69

LIST OF nXUSTRATIONS

PAGE

Pring Memorial, Bristol, England 70

Bristol, England 71

West View of Cambridge, England 73

Cambridge, England 73

Emmanuel College, Cambridge, England 75

Harvard Memorial Chapel and Window, St. Saviour's Church, Southwark, London ... 76

Harvard Memorial Window, Chapel of Emmanuel College, Cambridge, England 76

Harvard House, early Home of John Harvard's Mother, Stratford-on-Avon, England ... 76

Granite Shaft to the Memory of John Harvard 77

Cup Given to Enmianuel College, Cambridge, England 77

Church and Priory of Ste. Marie Overie (now St. Saviour's), Southwark, London .... 78

Harvard College, 1726 80

Royal Dock Yard, Chatham, England 83

Prospect of His Majesty's Royal Navy 84

"Mayflower" Inscription in front of the Old Tw^in Lights, Chatham, Massachusetts ... 85
Boulder and Tablet marking the probable Grave of William Nickerson, Chatham, Massa-
chusetts 86

Chelmsford, England 88

All Saints Church, Chelmsford, Massachusetts 90

Chelmsford, England, and the River Chelmer 92

St. Mary's Church, Chelmsford, England 92

"NewBedfordFifty Years Ago" (1808) 94

East View of Bedford Bridge, 1790 94

Reply from Dartmouth, England 96

Bedfordshire 98

Gosnold Memorial 99

Landing of Bartholomew Gosnold 99

Dartmouth, England, and the Harbour 100

Dartmouth, England, showing Dartmouth Castle 100

Birth of the Whaling Industry, New Bedford, Massachusetts 102

John Banyan's Cottage, Elstow, near Bedford, England 103

Southern View of the Court -House, Dedham, Massachusetts 105

Norfolk Agricultural Society's Exhibition 105

Bust of Rev. John Rogers 106

"Vale of Dedham," England 107

Dedham Street, Dedham, England 108

Dedham Church, England 109

Dedham, England no

Tablets in First Parish Church, Dorchester, Massachusetts 112

"The New Hospital," Plymouth, England 113

Meeting House Hill, Dorchester, Massachusetts, 1847 114

Ancient Roman Pavement at Entrance of the Dorchester High School, Dorchester, Massa-
chusetts no

Hangman's Cottage, Dorchester, England 117

Birthplace of Sir Thomas Hardy, Bockhampton, Dorchester, England 117

St. Peter's Church, Dorchester, England 118

Tablet in the Parish Church of St. Peter's, Dorchester, England 119

Remains of the House in Dorchester, England, in which Rev. John White lived 120

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE

High Street West, Dorchester, England 121

Pieces of Bread and Corn-cob brought to Dorchester, Massachusetts, in 1630 122

View of Parliament House and College Green, Dublin, Ireland 1 23

Blarney Castle 123

Castle of Dublin 125

Falmouth, England 128

Album presented in 1892 by the Mayor and Town Council of Gloucester, England, lo

Gloucester, Massachusetts 131

Exterior View of the Album presented by Gloucester, England, to Gloucester, Massa-
chusetts 132

Tablet at Stage Fort Park, Gloucester, Massachusetts 133

Larger View of Tablet on Rock at Stage Fort Park, Gloucester, Massachusetts 133

Portuguese Church, Gloucester, Massachusetts 135

Stage Fort, First Settlement at Gloucester, Massachusetts, 1623 138

Roger Conant House, first house erected in Gloucester, at Stage Fort, 1623 138

Gloucester, Massachusetts 139

Ancient West Gate House and Bridge, Gloucester, England 140

College Court, Gloucester, England 141

City of Gloucester, England, and Gloucester Cathedral from the River Severn 142

Docks of Gloucester, England 143

Winthrop Family Tomb, Groton Church, Groton, England 146

Groton Church, Groton, England 147

Pieces of Stained Glass from Groton Church, Groton, England 147

East Window, Groton Church, Groton, England, 1875 149

South Window, Groton Church, Groton, England, 1880 149

Rev. Thomas Hooker and his Congregation on their Long Journey from Newtowne (now

Cambridge) to found Hartford, Connecticut 152

All Saints Church, Hertford, England 153

Mayor, Aldermen and Councilmen of Hertford, England 153

Port Hill, Hertford, England 155

Monuments in Center Church Burying Ground, Hartford, Connecticut, to the Memory of

its Early Settlers 155

Hertford Castle, Hertford, England 156

Tablet in St. Nicholas Hall, Hertford, England 157

Flagstone from a Street in Harwich, England 158

Harwich, England 159, 161

Old Meeting House, often called "The Old Ship Church," Hingham, Massachusetts, erected

1681 163

Hingham, England 163

Room on Second Floor of Hingham Memorial Tower 164

Rear View of the Tower, Hingham, Massachusetts 165

Mounting Block near Village Green, Hingham, England 168

Bust of Abraham Lincoln in the Parish Church, Hingham, England 169

Scene on Village Conunon, Hingham, England 170

Trinity Church, Melrose, Massachusetts 171

Melrose, Scotland 172

Chancel and East Window, Melrose Abbey, Scotland 172

Melrose Abbey, founded by David I, King of Scotland 173

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE

The Eleanor Cross, Northampton, England 174

Ancestral Home of the Family of George Washingtx)n, Sulgrave, Northampton, England 176

Northampton, England 177

Views of Market Square, Northampton, England 178

Northampton, Massachusetts, showing Main Street, 1838 180

Northampton, Massachusetts, 1842 180

Founders* Monument, Norwich, Connecticut 184

Tablet on Odiorne's Point, Rye, New Hampshire, opposite Newcastle 186

Tablet in Garrison Church, Portsmouth, England 187

Tablet on Star Island, Isles of Shoals, off the Coast of New Hampshire 189

St. Sepulchre Church, London 190

House in Rye, England, in which Henry James lived from 1898 to 1916 191

Mermaid Street, Rye, England, showing Mermaid Inn 192

Portsmouth, England, 1825 193

Sandwich, England — Sandown Road 195

Cattle Market and Town Hall, Sandwich, England 195

Nye Family Boulder, Sandwich, Massachusetts 196

"Saddle" Rock, Sandwich, Massachusetts 197

"Pillion" Rock, Sandwich, Massachusetts 198

Barbican, Sandwich, England 199

Strand Street, Sandwich, England 201

St. Martin's Church, Wareham, England 202

Tow Path, South Bridge and Trinity Church Tower, Wareham, England 204

North Street, Wareham, England 204

St. James Church, Woodstock, Vermont 206

Woodstock, England, showing Park Street and the Market Place 207

West View of the City of Worcester, England 209

Worcester, England 209

Suit of Armour used in the Battle of Worcester 210

Northeast View of Worcester Cathedral, England, 1789 211

All Saints Church, Worcester, Massachusetts 212

Relics from Worcester Cathedral, Worcester, England 213

Friar Street, Worcester, England 214

Worcester, Massachusetts (Main Street) 215

The Quay, Yarmouth, England 217, 218

Grey Friars Row, Yarmouth, England 220

Market Place, Yarmouth, England 222

Monument to Richard Sears, Yarmouth, Massachusetts 223

FOREWORD

THE Tercentenary of the Landing of the Pilgrims at Provincetown on Novem-
ber II, 1620, and of the first Landing at Plymouth on December 21st of
the same year, will be celebrated t^ii autumn not only by the people of
New England but by most of the other States, and also by England, Holland and
doubtless other countries. We therefore believe this to be an appropriate year to
issue this volume treating of the connecting links between New England and
Old England, induding most of the cities and towns named after the places in
England, Ireland and Scotland, from the beginning of the first settlement at
Plymouth, Massachusetts.

It is our belief that there are many people who do not know who were the early
settlers of the dtles or towns, or of other places in the New England States. We
think, too, there may be many who do not know how or why these New England
conununities have been given their present names, and we also believe few [>eople
realize the dose relationship and the many links between many of our New England
dties and towns and the mother cities and towns of the Old Country.

This idea was suggested to the Trust Company by Walter R. Whiting, Esq., who
showed us several interesting pamphlets written by Rev. Louis C. Cornish describ-
ing the interesting exchanges of friendship that have taken place between New
Hingham and Old Hingham.

We have attempted in this book to describe many of the messages, gifts and
official or unofiicial visits between the places of the same name in the New England
States and the British Isles, and we believe most of this material has never before
been collected; in fact, much of this information has never appeared in print,
except perhaps occasionally in accounts of dty or town celebrations, or in dty or
town records. Much assistance has been furnished by Mayors of dties, Town
Clerks, Selectmen, officers of Libraries and Historical Societies, and by people
in the different dries and towns in New England, who have very kindly forwarded
to the Trust Company in many cases original dociunents, histories, letters, records,
dty and town reports, and photographs for our examination and reproducUon,
and it is to these persons the Trust Company and those who read this book are
particularly indebted.

lo FOREWORD

We have endeavored to outline very briefly the early history of these cities
and towns in New England which were named for cities and towns in Great Britain,
and we also have included a short history of these places in the Old Country, which
on account of their great age and long history we can only deal with very briefly.
We have felt that New Englanders would like to know more of these English, Scotch
and Irish places from which most of our settlers came. We furthermore believe
that this history will result in further interchanges of friendship, gifts and corre-
spondence, either ofl&cial or imofficial, between cities and towns in America and
places of the same name, and perhaps even other places, in Great Britain. We
have not been able to include all the cities and towns in New England in this
book, and have therefore reserved half of our material for a second number. These
two volumes will describe most of the places in Massachusetts, and the most im-
portant ones in the other New England States, that have been named for places in
Great Britain; it has been necessary to leave out all the towns and cities in New
England that have been named for distinguished persons in the British Isles.

It has also been our endeavor to reproduce and describe the many tablets, memo-
rials and statues on both sides of the Atlantic which connect the places of the same
name in New England and Great Britain, and we think the reader will be surprised
to find that England has erected almost as many memorials to the early explorers,
settlers and Pilgrims of New England as we have done ourselves. We have also
added pictures, or photographs of old prints, of particular places of interest to
Americans in the EngUsh cities and towns, and have likewise included pictures and
photographs of some rare prints of some of our largest New England cities and
towns, which we think will be of particular interest both to New Englanders and
to the people of Great Britain.

We regret that the size of this history must necessarily be larger than the other
fifteen annual publications that have been issued by the Trust Company, owing
to the fact that there was so much material that it could not be properly treated in
the usual space. We have thought it wise to begin the account with Plymouth
and Southampton owing to the particular interest on both sides of the Atlantic in
these places at this time. Other places are arranged alphabetically.

The Trust Company desires especially to thank Ian Forbes-Robertson, Esq.,
of Farnham, England, for having personally collected much valuable data and
pictures of most of the cities and towns in Great Britain, of which mention is made,
for without his valuable and eflScient co-operation this book would have been
impossible. The Trust Company also wishes to thank the many English Mayors,
dty and town officials, Secretaries of Museums and other societies, and photogra-
phers, for information and photographs forwarded through Mr. Forbes-Robertson.

The Trust Company is grateful for permission to use valuable material gathered
by the late Oscar Fay Adams, a distinguished author of Boston, in checking up his
material with that presented herewith. During his lifetime Mr. Adams published

FOREWORD II

in various periodicals, such as the New England Magazine^ Dedham Historical
Register, Essex Antiquarian, Boston Transcript, and the Christian Register, a number
of articles about "Our English Parent Towns/' Among his posthumous papers
is the manuscript of a complete and as yet unpublished volume upon the subject, the
result of his wide research, historical, architectural and antiquarian, in England, which
he dearly loved. Mr. Adams died at Truro, Massachusetts, in 1919. It is fitting that
his work and his name should have their share in preparing a volume along this line
in which he was especially interested. We wish to thank Miss Abbie Farwell
Brown and Miss M. B. Lazenby for procuring for our use Mr. Adams* manuscript.

As much time has been spent in preparing this book, it seems proper to
mention that the writer and compiler of this information is the President of the
State Street Trust Company, and that assistance in compiling has been given by
the First Vice President of the Company. The Company desires also to recognize
the eflScient services of Miss Florence H. Cabot, who has given her time exclusively
for many months towards arranging this material, and also, the services of Miss
Edith E. Olson and Ralph M. Eastman.

The Company also wishes to thank Perry Walton, Esq., and the staff connected
with his company, the Walton Advertising and Printing Company, for much
time and care given in the preparation of this volume.

A Ust of the persons who have helped us is appended, and we thank them for
their great assistance and at the same time hope that they will approve of the results
of our labours.

We thank His Excellency, Governor Calvin Coolidge, and his Secretary, Henry
F. Long, Esq., who helped us in regard to Northampton; Hon. Andrew J. Peters,
Mayor of Boston, and his Secretary, E. V. B. Parke, Esq., who helped us in regard
to Boston, which we have had to postpone until next year. We also wish to thank
Rt. Rev. Bishop Lawrence for valuable assistance in regard to interchanges, which
we have treated in the second volume, between churches in the two countries; also
Otto Fleischner, Esq., and other officials of the Boston Public Library, who have
shown great courtesy and kindness in the selection of many books treating of these
places in both countries; also Mrs. Mary Fifield King, for much valuable English
material given to us.

Plymouth and Southampton, Massachusetts: Capt. Arthur H. Clark, Fred-
erick W. Kitts (Plymouth, England), Wilfred H. Schoff, Secretary Commercial Mu-
seum, Philadelphia, Pa., Walter K. Watkins, Arthur Lord, Rev. Arthur Bryant Whitney,
F. C. Holmes, Louis A. Law, Rev. Dr. J. Irving Brown of the Scots Church in
Rotterdam, Capt. John A. Cook, Howard F. Hopkins, Josephine Young.

Andover, Massachusetts: Bartlett H. Hayes, Claude Moore Fuess, Charlotte H.
Abbott, Alfred L. Ripley, John N. Cole.

Barnstable, Massachusetts: Thomas C. Thacher, Henry M. Hutchings, Miss
Mary G. Hinckley, Miss Abbie L. Hinckley, Alfred Crocker, Richard Cobb, Sturgis

12 FOREWORD

Library. Bath, Maine: Harold M. Sewall, Rev. Henry S. Burrage, Evelyn L. Gil-
more, John Hatton (Bath, England), Fred D. Wardle (Bath, England). Belfast,
Maine: David H. Smith, Henry E. Dunnack. Beverly, Massachusetts: Rev.
E. J. V. Huiginn, H. Franklin Murray, Charles E. Ober. Bristol, Maine, Rhode
Island, New Hampshire: Rev. Henry S. Burrage, Evelyn L. Gilmore, Rev. Albert C.
Lamed, Albert C. Bates, Thomas B. Steele, Wilfred H. Munro, Wallis E. Howe, Kate I.
Stewart, Maria D. Norris.

Cambridge, Massachusetts: William C. Lane, Walter B. Briggs, Charles Belden,
Librarian of the Boston Public Library, Elizabeth G. Norton, Edgar H. Wells. Chat-
ham, Massachusetts: Augustus M. Bearse, Ernest E. Budder (Chatham, England),
C. H. Smallhoff, William C. Smith. Chelmsford, Massachusetts: Rev. Wilson
Waters.

Dartmouth, New Bedford and Bedford, Massachusetts: George H. Tripp,
Charles W. Jenks. Dedham, Massachusetts: Julius H. Tuttle, Miss Elizabeth
Humphreys, Rev. William F. Cheney, Clifton P. Baker, Charles Stearns, Secretary of
t\e Dedham Historical Society. Dorchester, Massachusetts: Mrs. Mary Fifield
King, Rev. Simon B. Blunt, S. J. Willis, William B. Thurber, Frederick S. Brown,
James E. Thomas, E. A. Huebener, Miss Lottie M. Allen, Edwin J. Lewis, Jr., H. Pouncy
(Dorchester, England), John Acland (Dorchester, England), Rev. H. F. Bums. Dublin,
New HAMPSHmE: Henry D. Allison, Joseph Lindon Smith, Mrs. Jasper Whiting, Mrs.
Florence C. Howes, Dr. Henry H. Piper, Herbert Maynard.

Falmouth, Massachusetts: Edward N. Fenno, Edward N. Fenno, Jr., Rev.
Henry Herbert Smythe, Harry V. Lawrence.

Gloucester, Massachusetts: Allen F. Grant, Henry D. Sleeper, Rev. Francis V.
DeBem, Mrs. Joseph P. Mesquita, William J. Day, W. A. Reed. Groton, Mas-
sachusetts: Rev. Sherrard Billings, Georgianna A. Boutwell, Mrs. Robert C. Win-
throp, Frederic Winthrop.

Hartford, Connecticut: Hon. Louis R. Cheney, Williston Walker, J. P. Mor-
gan, William B. Basse tt. Harwich, Massachusetts: Thomas H. Nickerson, John H.
Paine. Hingham, Massachusetts: Rev. Louis C. Cornish, Rev. Houghton Page,
Walter R. Whiting, George S. Marsh, Gustavus O. Henderson, James Dean, Hugh Ban-
croft, Rev. H. K. Bartow, Rev. Milo H. Gates, D.D.

Melrose, Massachusetts: Rev. Hugh Wallace Smith, John Larrabee, Franklin P.
Shumway, W. De Haven Jones, Ashton L. Carr.

Northampton, Massachusetts: J. L. Harrison, Malcolm B. Stone. Norwich,
Connecticut: William C. Gilman, Mrs. E. E. Rogers, Albert C. Bates, Imogene A.
Cash.

Portsmouth and Rye, New Hampshire: Wallace Hackett, William E. Marvin,
William D. Turner.

Sandwich, Massachusetts: Thomas C. Thacher, William L. Nye, Henry M.
Hutchings, Capt. John S. Carpenter, James L. Wesson, John W. Dalton, Elsie M. Wing,
J. A. Jacobs (Sandwich, England), Miss Annie A. Rogers.

Wareham, Massachusetts: Miss Hannah S. B. Dykes, Mr. and Mrs. Rudolph
Weld. Woodstock, Vermont: W. Rodman Fay, George C. Lee, Edward H. Williams, Jr.

FOREWORD 13

Worcester, Massachusetts: Raymond Wyer, A. L. Stratton, Benjamin Thomas
Hill, Clarence S. Brigham, Dwight S. Pierce, John B. Dyer.

Yarmouth, Massachusetts: Thomas C. Thacher, Louis B. Thacher, Henry M.
Hutchings, the late Willard T. Sears, Charles W. Swift, Richard Simpkins, Mrs. Lydia
C. Matthews.

Those who have helped us in connection with towns which we have had to
omit until next year, and those who have helped us in general matters connected
with the New England cities and towns and to whom we are also greatly indebted,
are: —

Miss Susan Ilsley Adams, W. F. Adams, John Albree, Charles F. Allen, Thomas H.
Armstrong, Marion S. Arnold, M. M. Baker, G. C. Baldwin, Thomas Tileston Baldwin,
Solon Bancroft, Francis Bardwell, Albert C. Bates, James Phinney Baxter, Mrs. Caroline
A. Bill, Mrs. Charles S. Bird, Lillian E. Bishop, Hon. Chas. M. Blodgett, C. K. Bolton,
Mrs. John P. Bowditch, John P. Bowditch, Nathaniel I. Bowditch, Charles H. Butler,
A. M. Bragdon, Abbie Farwell Brown, Rev. Howard N. Brown, Peter N. Cameron,
Everett Carleton, Imogene Cash, Librarian, Otis Library, Norwich, Connecticut, Howard
M. Chapin, Mabel W. Chapin, Robert P. Clapp, A. L. Clarke, George K. Clarke, Rev.
J. J. Cogan, Hon. George W. Coleman, Judge Louis A. Cook, Mary C. Copeland, Major
Coxon, Hon. Walter H. Creamer, Mrs. H. A. Crosby, H. Ashton Crosby, Frederic H.
Curtiss, R. M. De Cormis, Rev. Wm. H. Dewart, Harold T. Dougherty, John B.
Dyer, Miss Emma Florence Eaton, Henry H. Edes, Erwin Edwards, George H. Eustis,
Peter N. Everett, Fred T. Field, Redington Fiske, P. K. Foley, C. F. French, Mrs.
Clara A. Fuller, J. Pennington Gardiner, C. H. Garland, E. Howard George, Agnes J.
Goodwin, Miss Elizabeth Gorton, Francis Gray, Daniel M. Gurteen, N. Penrose
Hallowell, Samuel King Hamilton, Mrs. G. G. Hanmiond, Edward M. Hartwell,
City Statistician, E. R. Hastings, Jane A. Hewett, William L. Higgins, Edith
M. Hodgman, Joshua B. Holden, Joseph I. Horton, Amos E. Jewett, Alfred S.
Jewett, B. N. Johnson, C. S. Johnson, Harriette E. Jones, George E. Keith, Sinclair
Kennedy, George S. Keyes, Virginia M. Keyes, Librarian, Lancaster Town Library,
Rev. W. Appleton Lawrence, Miss H. G. Lee, Rev. Herbert Edwin Lombard, Henry G.
Lord, Charles A. Loring, Edward Lovering, C. D. Lyons & Company, Mercy E. Mac-
Dermott, Rev. Alexander Mann, Moses W. Mann, Kenneth D. Marlatt, Herbert W.
Mason, Miss Ida Mason, Lloyd Minton Mayer, Corwin McDowell, Herbert A. McElwain,
William B. McSkimmon, Spencer P. Mead, John M. Merriam, Dr. Robt. T. Moflfatt,
Alfred A. Montgomery, Rev. Glenn Tilley Morse, Mrs. F. S. Moseley, John G. Moul-
ton, E. I. Nye, Frank H. Page, Robert Treat Paine, Rev. Charles E. Park, Augustin H.
Parker, Charles H. Pearson, A. W. Phinney, Fred S. Piper, Mrs. A. N. Rantoul, Josephine
E. Rayne, Charles F. Read, J. A. Remick, Jr., E. H. R. Revere, Rev. Austin Rice, Dr.
Austen F. Riggs, Ernest E. Rogers, Lawrence A. Ryder, Richard M. Saltonstall, E. L. San-
derson, Henry B. Sawyer, J. B. Shearer, T. Sheppard, Clarence E. Sherman, Librarian,
Lynn Public Library, Frank Smith, Leonard W. Smith, Robert B. Smith, Jane
Stevens, Ralph A. Stewart, Charles Stone, John H. Storer, Moorfield Storey, Thomas
Sutton, Charles H. Taylor, Jr., Edward H. Temple, Edwin A. Tetlow, Bowen Tufts,

14 FOREWORD

Miss Sophia Turner, William D. Turner, Julius H. Tuttle, Rev. Wm. Harman van Allen,
Henry G. Vaughan, Horace G. Wadlin, J. W. Walker, the late Rev. T. Franklin Waters,
Walter K. Watkins, Rev. Francis E. Webster, Frank H. Whitmore, Moses Williams,
Miss F. Mabel Winchell, Mrs. Marcia M. Winslow, Maj. Evelyn Wrench, Rev. Arthur
H. Wright, Mrs. William E. Norman.

There may be other persons who have helped us, whose names through over-
sight have been omitted, and in such cases we wish to offer our thanks and apologies.

We trust that our efforts to bring before the people of New England historical
material, much of which has never before been published, will be enjoyed and ap-
preciated. Many celebrations will take place in New England during the next
fifteen years, and while holding these anniversaries, let us not forget all we owe to
the early settlers who endured such hardships when they left their homes and friends
in England, Ireland and Scotland, to help found this Republic. To use again the
Latin inscription on Governor Bradford's Monument on Burial Hill, which we have
quoted under Plymouth: *^Do not basely relinquish what the Fathers with diflSi-
culty attained."

Boston, 1920.

Fnma tlulBttaplili:iS.A.Cka<iditttTCii..SmiUumt'aniuidF.sair,F,nclaHd Kindncn inn Fn-bti-Rolviiim. F.sf.

PILGRIM FATHERS MEMORIAL, SOUTHAMPTON, ENGL.\ND,
unveiled on Pilgrim Day, August 15, 19:3, by the American Ambassador, Hon. Walter Hinea Page. The
' "ged to return to Dartmouth to make repaire on the

TOWNS of NEW ENGLAND

and

Old England, Ireland and Scotland

PLYMOUTH AND SOUTHAMPTON
"I hear the tread of pioneers,
Of nations yet to be,
The first low wash of waves where soon
Shall roll a human sea."

~Whiai€T.

jIVE kernels of parclied com per person comprised the Pil-
grims' meal one day in the year 1623, when food became
particularly scarce, and at the two hundred and &ftieth anni-
versary of their landing in Plymouth the guests at the
banquet were surprised to find for the first course this same
scant allowance of provisions on each plate as a reminder of
the hardships endured by their forefathers in order that this
great nation might live. To Provincetown and to Plymouth many Ameri-
cans, and also a goodly number of Englishmen and people of other naUonaltties,
will journey this autimin and next siunmer to do honour to that courageous
little band of pioneers who laid, in the new world, " the comer stone of a nation,"
to use the words of Longfellow. There have been many pilgrimages to the
historic "Old World Shrines" in England and Holland, and there will be many
more this year and in the years to come; and each year both America and England
will hold in greater reverence the little village of Scrooby, where the Separatist
movement had its inception, and where is situated the old Manor House in which
was bom William Brewster, later called "Elder Brewster," the foremost planter of
New Plymouth. On this old Brewster bouse is affixed a brass plate recording that
this tablet was erected by the Pilgrim Society of Plymouth, Massachusetts, United
States of America, " to mark the site of the ancient Manor House where lived William
Brewster from 1588 to 1608, and where he organized the Pilgrim Church, of which
he became a ruling Elder, and with which in 1608 he removed to Amsterdam, in
1609 to Leyden, and in 1620 to Plymouth, where he died April 10, 1644."

From Scrooby the usual pilgrimage takes the visitor to the nearby village of
Austerfield, where is to be found the cottage in which was bora William Bradford,

i8 PLYMOUTH and SOUTHAMPTON

the second Governor of our Plymouth, and the Historian of the Colony. At the
early age of seventeen he used to walk across the fields to Scrooby to join his brethren
in their meetings. A tablet in the Norman Church of Austerfield records that the
aisle in which it was placed was built by the Society of Mayflower Descendants
and other citizens of the United States, "in memory of William Bradford, who was
bom at Austerfield and baptised in this Church," on March 19, 1589. The quaint
village of Gainsborough, the home of the Pilgrim Church, is another shrine, for here
was the home for some time of John Robinson, the pastor of this Separatist Church
and the leader of this little flock that fled from Nottinghamshire into Holland. In
the old Hall of this town the Church was founded in 1602, a more recent object of
interest being the Robinson Memorial Church, the corner stone of which was laid
by our Minister Hon. T. F. Bayard in 1896, the inscription reading: —

To the

Glory of God

This stone, in memory of

John Robinson, Pastor & Exile

was laid on June 29, 1896
by the Hon. T. F. Bayard, etc. etc.

Another tablet was placed in the vestibule of this Church in 1902 to commemorate
the three hundredth anniversary, and the wording on this is as follows: —

This tablet unveiled June nth, 1902
In the 300th year after the formation
Of the Church in Gainsborough, with which
The name of John Robinson is associated,
Stands as a record of the co-operation of
American with English Congregationalists
In erecting a building to commemorate him
The thought of whom stirs equal reverence
In Engush and American hearts.

At this dedication the Lord Lieutenant of the County of Lincoln quoted the pro-
phetic words of our Minister James Russell Lowell, spoken at Wimbledon dur-
ing a shooting competition between American and English marksmen, "If ever
riflemen of both nations should be fated to meet in battle, may God grant that the
rifles of both nations may be turned in the same direction.''

The scene of the Pilgrim wanderings now moves to old Boston, where seven of
the principal ** offenders'' were imprisoned in the old Guildhall, another Mecca
for tourists, especially from New England. Bradford fortunately was so young
that he was allowed to depart. After a number of weeks all the prisoners were
liberated, and sailed, as every one knows, to Amsterdam, some of the voyagers
taking fourteen days on the journey; from Amsterdam they went to Leyden, where
they lived and worshipped for eleven years, and where John Robinson a short
time afterwards succumbed, being buried in the Cathedral of St. Peter. A tablet

PLYMOUTH and SOUTHAMPTON 19

was placed there to his memory in 1891, by the National Council of the Congre-
gational Churches of the United States, and commemorates the fact that from
there "at his prompting went forth the Pilgrim Fathers to settle in New England
in 1620." A marble slab has also been placed on the building in which he lived,
the inscription reading: —

On this spot lived, taught and died, John Robinson 1611-1625.

The committee appointed in Holland to celebrate the coming Pilgrim Anniversary
will erect in his honour three memorial windows in this church ; also other memorials
will be erected in honour of the Pilgrims during the coming year at Amsterdam,
Rotterdam and Delfshaven. The departure of the band from the latter port in
the " Speedwell*' and their arrival in Southampton was their next move, Robinson
bidding them adieu as they sailed off '*to a salute of small shot and three
pieces of ordnance/' Was it not quite fitting that the Dutch, in whose country
they had lived so many years, should be the first nation to have its representa-
tive, from New Netherlands in New York, make an official visit to this little
Pilgrim colony in the year 1627, which has gone down in history as its first diplo-
matic experience.

At Southampton they found the ** Mayflower" at the West Quay waiting for
them and near this spot in 1 913 was unveiled by our Ambassador Page on Pilgrim
Day, August 15 (N.S.) August 5 (O.S), the memorial shown in the cut on page
16.

IN GRATEFUL MEMORY OF

THOSE Pilgrims of the "Mayflower"

who crossed the Atlantic in the year 1620,

and became the founders

of the first of those settlements

which afterwards developed into the colonies

of New England

This tablet is placed here by the

Massachusetts Society of the Colonial Dames

of America.

Another tablet on the monument reads: —

On the 15th of August 1620

From the West Quay near this spot

The famous Mayflower began her voyage

Carrjdng the little company of

PILGRIM FATHERS

Who were destined to be the founders

of the New England States of America.

Here the Pilgrims waited for a week while the " Speedwell" was being made ready
for sea, and while in port they were joined by John Alden. The story of their^
return first to Dartmouth and then to Plymouth, where the "Speedwell" was finally

Fnm "nomt iKi /IjhiUi dJ Iki Pil^im Fatktri." iy Alaaidtr Uatktiuul. D.D.

BARBICAN. PLYMOUTH, ENGLAND,
where the "Mayflower" lay before sailing tor the New World. On the wall on the left is placed the
tablet shown in the cut on page 22. The two men in the center of the above picture are looking at the
plate shown below.

Fnm ■ HiUiratk (ito /ir Ui Slalt Slrtd Tnul Ctmfauy hy Htalk Ir Sltmaun KI,Klmsi Ian F^hi-Kiilmtum, Ei«.

PLYMOUTH and SOUTHAMPTON 21

abandoned, is too well known to mention. Of all the towns in the Old World Plym-
outh in County Devon, England, will of course always remain the one for which
New Englanders will have the warmest affection, and the particular place of interest
there is the Barbican in Sutton Pool, now enciunbered by the fishing nets, where
the "Mayflower" lay while her consort was undergoing repairs. It was near here
on the " Hoe," on the cliff's top overlooking the Barbican, that Drake said to Ad-
miral Howard, after it had been reported to him while playing bowls that the Armada
was entering the harbour, "There is plenty of time to win the game and beat the
Spaniards too." The place where the "Mayflower" lay is recorded for all time by
a huge stone firmly embedded in the paved causeway, into which is cut the one
word " Mayflower" and the date " 1620." On the quay's wall a few feet away is
another memorial — a bronze tablet inscribed as follows: —

On the 6th of September 1620, in the Mayoralty of Thomas Fownes,
after being ** kindly entertained and courteously used by divers
Friends there dwelling," the Pilgrim Fathers sailed from
Plymouth in the MAYFLOWER, in the Providence of God to
settle in NEW PLYMOUTH, and to lay the Foundation
of the NEW ENGLAND STATES— The ancient
Cawsey whence they embarked was destroyed not many Years
afterwards, but the Site of their Embarkation is marked by
the Stone bearing the name of the MAYFLOWER in
the pavement of the adjacent Pier. This Tablet was erected
in the Mayoralty of J. T. Bond, 1 891, to commemorate
their Departure, and the visit to Pl)anouth in July
of that Year of a number of their Descendants and
Representatives.

These memorials were unveiled in 189 1 in the presence of many Englishmen, and
also many Americans, who journeyed to England to witness the ceremony. The
embarkation of the Pilgrims is shown in a painting in the House of Lords, London,
an engraving of which hangs in Pilgrim Hall, Plymouth, Massachusetts.

The little vessel of 180 tons after a tempestuous voyage of sixty-seven days,
best described by these lines of Dawes, cast anchor in Cape Cod Harbour, Prov-
incetown, on November nth (O.S.): —

"Nobly the Ma)rflower bows
While the dark wave she plows

On to the West;
Till from the tempest's shock
Proudly she lands her flock
Where on old Plymouth Rock
Freedom found rest."

Often the little ship could carry no sail whatever, and the constant strain bowed
and cracked one of the main beams, and threatened to compel them to return to
England, but fortimately the crew was able to repair the break. One himdred

PLYMOUTH and SOUTHAMPTON

By Uealk, Plymtaa

TABLET AND INSCRIPTION ON THE WALL OF THE BARBICAN, PLYMOUTH, ENGLAND,
recording the departure of the "Mayflower."

and two (sometimes stated as one hundred and one) souls left Plymouth, England,
and the same number reached our shores, though one of the original members died
on the way over, for one new life came into being in Cape Cod Harbour, Peregrine
White, the first Englishman born in New England; in Pilgrim Hall are many arti-
des used and worn by him. One of the passengers, John Howland, was washed
overboard, but fortunately grabbed the topsail halyards and was hauled back on
board the ship. Among the crew was a mariner described as being "proud and
profane," who was always making fun of the misery of the passengers, and assailing
them for being seasick, declaring that he hoped half of the passengers would die
and that he might cast them overboard and "make mery" with their property.
Of this incident a chronicler said, "It plased God before they came halfe seas over,
to smite this yong man with a greeveous disease, of which he dyed in a desperate
maner, and so was himselfe ye first that was throwne overbord." We think of the
"Mayflower" as having made this one voyage to New England, but she was the
ocean packet of her day, plying continuously between this country and England;
she was one of the four vessels that brought Higginsou and his company to Salem in

PLYMOUTH md SOUTHAMPTON 23

PLYMOUTH HOE, PLYMOUTH. ENGLAND,
as it must have looked at tbe time oE thesuiingoE the "Mayflower."

1629, and was also one of Winthrop's fleet the following year. Her record after that
cannot be traced, but she hailed, at different times in her career, from London, Yar-
mouth and Southampton. Dr. Harris of Manchester, England, claims he has proof
that she was used as a whale ship in the Greenland whale fishery up to the year 1654.
It is a curious coincidence that the compact signed by the forty-one male mem-
bers of the company was executed on November nth, now known as "Armistice
Day." This compact and the names of the signers have been inscribed on a
memorial tablet in the Town Hall yard at Provincetown, and on the front of the
tablet appear these words: —

This Memorial stone is erected by the

Commonwealth of Massachusetts

to commemorate the compact, or

Constitution of Government, signed

by the Pilgrims on board the

Mayflower in Provincetown Harbor

November nth, 1620, old style.

It is interesting to know that the seal of Provincetown has a picture of the scroll,
upon which the compact was recorded, and on it are these words: "Compact

PLYMOUTH and SOUTHAMPTON

lK Sir^ TT*a Cimttuj By W. G. SUJ

TABLET PLACED NEAR THE SUPPOSED LANDING PLACE OF THE PILGRIMS. AT
PROVINCETOWN, MASSACHUSETTS

Nov. II, 1620. Birthplace of American Liberty." Another tablet, shown above,
marks the supposed first landing place of the Pilgrims and b inscribed as follows: —

THE FIRST LANDING PLACE

of the

PILGRIMS, NOV. II, 1620. O.S.

The map in Mourts' relation

Shows that near this spot

THE PILGRIMS

First touched foot on American soil

Erected by the Research Club of Provincetown
1917

This same organization is also planning to place a memorial on a boulder in the
oldest cemetery, in memory of the four Pilgrims who died while the "Mayflower"
was anchored in the harbour. There is still another inscription on a wooden marker
at the foot of Town Hill, indicating the place where the first washing was done.

PLYMOUTH and SOUTHAMPTON

Tlie gigantic Pilgrim Memorial
Monument in Provincetown was
dedicated in 1910 by President
Taft, the comer stone having been
laid by President Roosevelt three
years before. Miss Barbara Hoyt,
a descendant of Elder Brewster,
unveiled the tablet over the door
facing the harbour, the inscription
on it being as follows:—

On November aist, 1620 (N.S.)i
The Mayflower, carrying 102 passen-
gers, men, women, and children, cast
anchor in this harbor 67 days from
Plymouth, England.
. On the same day the 41 adult males
in the Company had solemnly cove-
nanted and combined themselves to-
gether "into a civil body poUtick."

This body politic established and
maintained on the bleak and barren
edge of a vast wilderness a state
without a king or a noble, a church
withouta bishop or a priest, a demo-
cratic conmionwealth the members of
which were "straightly tied to all
care of each other's good and of the
whole by every one."

With long-suffering devotion and
sober resolution they illustrated for
the first time in history the principles
of dvil and religious Uberty and the
practices of a genuine democracy.

Therefore, the remembrance of
them shall be perpetual in the vast re-
public that has inherited their ideals.

The British Ambassador was
present at the laying of the comer
stone in 1907.

Congress has recently passed
an appropriation to be used m
improving the approach to this
Provincetown monument, to make
other suitable improvements, and
to provide for a worthy celebration
fhi<> autumn and next summer in

1

PlnUtntludJtT lit SUU SIrtit Trul Camfany

PILGRIM MEMORIAL TOWER, TOWN fflLL,
PROVINCETOWN, MASSACHUSETTS,

which ia a landmark for many mile* around, was erected
to commemonte the Untfing of the Hlgrima at Cape Cod
on ttw eleventh day of November, 1610; their anchoring in
thishartMur; theadoptioiiiu the citbin of the "Mayflower,"
OD the day of the amval, of the Compact of Government,
tiK hnt chaxter of a democratic ^venunent in the worid't
bUtaryi the birth heie <rf Peregrine White, the first white
child bom in New England; the death of Dorothy Bradford,
the wife of William Bradford, afterward Governor of Plym-
outh; the explorations in geaich of a place for permanent
colonizations; uid the entire train of events which preceded
the settlement at Plymouth. In this monument are set
stones from many Massachusetts towns which were founded,
directly or indirectly, by these eady Pilgrims who landed in
Provincetown.

By Garit B. BrayUn

PLYMOUTH ROCK, PLYMOIJTH, MASSACHUSETTS,

PLYMOUTH and SOUTHAMPTON 27

honour of the first landing place of the Pilgrims on New England shores, so well
described by William CuUen Bryant in a poem sung at the celebration of the two
hundred and fiftieth anniversary at Plymouth in 1870: —

**Wild was the day; the wintry sea
Moaned sadly on New England's strand,
When first the thoughtful and the free,
Our Fathers, trod the desert land/'

While at Provincetown some of the more adventurous of the Pilgrims explored
along the inner shores towards Truro, which town is named after the English place
of the same name, and encountered Indians several times. The account of their
stay at Provincetown and their rough sail to Plymouth has been told many times,
but it is not generally realized that this first voyage of investigation was made in
a small shallop, and that later the explorers returned to Provincetown and advised
their companions to bring the ** Mayflower^* to Plymouth, as being more suitable
to their needs. It was on the 9th of December (O.S.) 19th (N.S.) that the Pil-
grims in their shallop reached their new destination, but it was two days later,
the nth of December (O.S.) 21st (N.S.), that historians agree the first landing
party, called by Robert C. Winthrop ^'The Landing," stepped on Plymouth Rock,
there being at the time a foot of snow on the ground. It is not always understood
that there were many other landing parties on different days and also that many
of the Pilgrims spent the whole winter on board the ** Mayflower," there not being
enough buildings for them, — buildings so well described by these lines: —

**His home was a freezing cabin
Too bare for the hungry rat;
Its roof was thatched with ragged grass.
And bald enough of that.
The hole that served for a casement
Was glazed with an ancient hat;
And the ice was gently thawing.
From the log whereon he sat."

Hundreds of people from all over the world have visited this historic rock, which
has been proved to be the real one, and which is regarded with more veneration
than any other in the world. In 1775 it was decided to move it to Town Square
as a defiance to the Tory element, as it was thought it would encourage the slackers
during the war, but while trying to do so the stone split in two and only half was
ever placed there. In 1834 this half was again moved in front of Pilgrim Hall,
the names of the forty-one signers of the compact of November nth being recorded
on it; both pieces of the rock in 1880 were placed together under the canopy. It
is proposed by the Tercentenary Committee to lower the rock to its original posi-
tion at the time of the landing, by removing the wharf and restoring the shore line
to its original shape. An interesting incident to mention was the transfer of the
bones of four of the Pilgrims who died during the early days of the colony and who

PLYMOUTH md SOUTHAMPTON

flMtlTatll lain far lilt Slalt Sirat T mil Cirm piny By Gtu'll B. Braybm

PLYMOUTH ROCK
This rock will be lowered to the position it was in at the time of tlie Landing.

were buried in the first burial ground on Cole's Hill, which is directly opposite the
rock and the landing place. These remains were dug up accidentally not long ago
in making a road, and placed on Burial Hill, whence Uiey were removed and are
now in the chamber on top of the canopy over the rock. Some years later, ini883,
while grading Cole's Hill, other remains were discovered and reinterred at the
place of their original burial, over which is a stone slab, suitably inscribed. In
this first burial ground fifty Pilgrims were interred during the first year of the colony,
reminding the visitor of the frightful hardships that resulted in the death of forty-
four persons in the first months of December, January, February and March. At
the top of the steps on Cole's Hill the visitor can see a tablet which was placed
there in 1917 by the descendants of James Cole, in his memory. He was bom in
London in 1600, was the first settler on this hill, in 1633, and died in Plymouth in
1693. It is hoped that fimds will be provided to make a more suitable memorial
of this hill, which will always be a hallowed spot for both Americans and English-
men. It has been decided to place the statue of the Indian "King" Massasoit on

PLYMOUTH and SOUTHAMPTON

« "Tit Pilflm Fallmi." by Artimr BaU, Vln^ tr Co.. Lombm. !»$}

BURIAL HILL, PLYMOUTH, MASSACHUSETTS

The aecoiid burial graund of the Pilgrims. Governor Bradford's moDumeot is shown at the left of the

center of the picture.

its summit. This hill was sown and continually leveUed to conceal the awful loss
of life both from the colonists and from the Indians.

The most inspiring place in Plymouth is the second cemetery used by the Pil-
grims, on Burial Hill, the First Cemetery in New England, so well described by
Rev. John Pierpont in a poem read at the celebration at Plymouth on December
22, 1824, part of which was as follows: —

"The Pilgrim Fathers are at rest:
When Summer's throned on high,
And the world's warm breast is in verdure dressed,
Go, stand on the hill where they Ue;
The earliest ray of the golden day
On that hallowed spot is cast;
And the evening sun as he leaves the world.
Looks kindly on that spot last."

Here are marked by oval stone slabs the old fort and also the watch house, which
were placed on the hill for protection, the sites of which are marked but will prob-
ably be made more discernible during this year. In this old cemetery are the
Gov, William Bradford monument, and for his sons two tombstones, no doubt
brought from England like many of the others; here is the oldest grave stone,
dated 1681, in memory of Edward Gray; here also is probably the oldest grave,
that of John Howland, the last man of the "Mayflower" to die in Plymouth; the
Cushman monument; and also many other graves of great interest, too numerous
to mention. The First Church, which is situated at the foot of Burial Hill, records
on a tablet at the entrance: —

Platetltiflut fat lilt Sum Sttta T'oi' Crmpany By Cttrii B. Braylt*

PILGRIM MONUMENT AT PLYMOUTH, MASSACHUSETTS

PLYMOUTH and SOUTHAMPTON

Fnrn a trinl in PUpim Ball, FiymmA, UailOilnutlU By Gtarf B. BrtyUm

REMAINS OF THE WRECK OF THE ENGLISH VESSEL " SPARROWHAWK,"

wrecked off Orleans, Cape Cod, [q 1636 and discovered in i86j. The frame of the hull as seen above is now
. . -.. .. »■ .1 >• .I. ^11 .- a eAibited on Boston Common in

The Church of Scrooby, Leyden, and the Mayflower gathered on
this hillside in 1620, has ever since preserved unbroken records and
maintained a continuous ministry, its first covenant being stilt the
faasb of its fellowship. In reverent memory of its PUgrim founders
this fifth meeting-house was erected A.D. MDCCCXCVII.

Numerous windows in the church commemorate events connected with the history
of the Pilgrims.

The large Pilgrim monument at Plymouth to which eleven thousand persons
contributed, was begun in 1859, but was not dedicated imtil i88g; on its sides are
graphically portrayed the Departure of the Pilgrims from Delfshaven, the Signing
of the Compact, the Landing, and the Treaty with Massasoit. The statue of
Faith was contributed by the late Oliver Ames of Boston. The names of the pas-
sengers are on the monument, and also an inscription stating that it is a "National
Monument to the Forefathers erected by a grateful people in remembrance of their
labors, sacri&ces, and sufferings for the cause of civil and religious hberty."

Pilgrim Hall, erected in memory of the Pilgrims, will be one of the great points
of attraction during the approaching celebration; the comer stone was laid in
1824, the hall itself being later rebuilt by J. H. Stickney, formerly of Baltimore,
Maryland. In this building are a number of pictures of Plymouth, England, and

rnm "Tkt FUfim PtlkBl," byArlk^ Hall, Virliu Sr Co.. LokIsh. iSsi

LEYDEN STREET, PLYMOUTH, MASSACHUSETTS,
as it looked about the middle of the nineteenth century.

PLYMOUTH and SOUTHAMPTON 33

also many treasures in the way of curiosities that form interesting connecting links
between the Old and New Worlds. In this hall is the frame of the " Sparrowhawk,"
one of the most interesting and wonderful relics in this country, which was exhib-
ited in 1865 on Boston Common; this little English vessel, of about a quarter less
tonnage than the ** Mayflower " was wrecked off Orleans, on Cape Cod, six years
after the ** Mayflower *' first came to this country, her company finding refuge in
Plymouth, Massachusetts. The ** Sparrowhawk" is the first English vessel known
to have been stranded on Cape Cod. Two hundred and thirty-seven years later
a violent storm revealed the frame, consisting of old ribs, which was dug up and
presented to Pilgrim Hall by Charles W. Livermore of Providence, Rhode Island.
The rudder was presented by John Doane. Other relics in the hall that are of
particular interest are bricks from the wharf in Delfshaven, from which the ** Speed-
weir* sailed; the departure of the *^ Mayflower'* from Southampton, photographed
from the picture in Town Hall, Southampton, England; portrait of Edward
Winslow, probably painted by Robert Walker in London in 1651, on one of
Winslow's visits to England; Governor Bradford's Bible; the ancient sword of
Miles Standish; the chair of Governor Winslow made in Cheapside, London, in
1 6 14; also the chairs of Elder Brewster and Governor Carver; a model of the
"Mayflower," the construction of which was passed upon by Capt. R. B. Forbes
of Boston. One of the many beautiful paintings is Charles Lucy's "Departure
from Delfshaven," which won the first prize of one thousand guineas at an exhibi-
tion in London. Other interesting relics are too numerous even to mention.

Leyden Street, which runs from the shore near the rock to the foot of Burial
Hill, was originally called First Street, and then known by the names of Great
and Broad Streets; it was not called by its present name until 1823.

** There first was heard the welcome strain
Of axe and hammer, saw and plane."

About one third of the way up the street on the left is the first, or common, house
erected on the street, which bears an interesting inscription : —

This tablet is erected by the Commonwealth of Massachusetts

to mark the site of the first house built

by the Pilgrims. In that house on 27 Feb.

1621 N.S. the right of popular suffrage was

exercised and Miles Standish was chosen Captain by a

majority vote. On or near this spot April i 1621

the memorable treaty with Massasoit was made.

Another fact of interest to both Americans and Britons was the return in 1897 by
Rt. Rev. Mandell Creighton, Bishop of London, of the original history of the
Plymouth Plantation, written by William Bradford, which is now in the Massa-
chusetts State Library, the gift having been made through Minister Bayard.

One would suppose there would have been many more connecting links between

PLYMOUTH and SOUTHAMPTON

PRESENT VIEW OF LEYDEN STREET,

of the fint house in Plymouth, Massachusetts, where Miles Standish was chosen Captain Febiu-

showing

aryJ7,i62i. This;

It was named Leyden Street

the two Plymouths, but the fact that the Pilgrims sailed from the English town of
this name seems to have been sufficient to keep alive the friendship between the
two places. There have been a number of visits of prominent persons to our
Plymouth, chief of which perhaps was that of The Lord Bishop of Winchester, Rt.
Rev. Ethelbert Talbot, who laid the corner stone of the new Christ Church in our
Plymouth in 1912. At another celebration held in 1853 an invitation was sent to
the Pastor of the Pilgrim Church at Southwark, London, but his extreme age pre-
vented his acceptance; an interesting letter, however, was received from the Burgo-
master, Aldermen and Councillors of Delfshaven, Netherlands. During the fes-
tivities, English and Dutch flags were flown beside that of our country.

Few people, we believe, know that Plymouth was not named by the Pilgrims,
but was so called by Prince Charles (afterwards Charles the Second) and placed
by Capt. John Smith on his map six years before, while he was in command of an

PLYMOUTH and SOUTHAMPTON

0:

tnrn "Filtrim FMiri; sr Til FnsJvi rftftm E<^U»i In lit Ritin <i Jama Uu FirH," iy W. H. OirfUf

DELFSHAVEN, HOLLAND,
the port from which the PElgrimB sailed (or Southampton, Englaiid, just previous to their voyage to New

England.

expedition fitted out under the patronage of Sir Ferdinando Gorges, who was the
governor of the castle in old Plymouth. Another curious fact is that the word
"Pilgrim" was not used in connection with these early Plymouth settlers until
about one hundred and seventy years after the landing.

The relation of the Indians to the pioneers at Plymouth will always be of great
interest, and from these well-known lines it would appear as if the settlers were
in constant fear of attacks: —

"So once, for fear of Indian beating,
Our grandsires bore their guns to meeting;
Each man equipped on Sunday mom
With psalm book, shot, and powder hom,
And looked in form as all must grant,
Like th* ancient true church militant,
Or fierce like modem deep divines.
Who fight with quills like porcupines."

{From Coffin's History.)

36 PLYMOUTH and SOUTHAMPTON

The most remarkable event in this connection occurred in the following March,
when some of the colony met the Indian Samoset, who saluted them in good English
and bade them welcome. This chief was one of the five Indians taken to London
by Captain Waymouth a few years before, and while there he had picked up some
of the language. On this occasion at Plymouth the Pilgrims entertained Samoset
a day and gave him presents, and a few days later he returned with his friend
Squanto, who had lived in Cornhill, London, and who always remained on friendly
terms with the colonists. The great Sagamore Massasoit also came at the same
time and made friends with the Englishmen, and on the first Thanksgiving in the
New World he and some of his redskins were guests of the Pilgrims, a scene which
has been depicted in a painting in Pilgrim Hall. This friendship between Mas-
sasoit and the colonists was further strengthened by Edward Winslow, when at
Bristol, Rhode Island, he xdsited the Indian "King," who was desperately ill, though
able to grasp the Englishman's hand and to say, *'0 Winslow, I shall never see thee
again." Medicine was administered and he recovered, remaining always a firm
friend of the Englishmen. Winslow in addition to his other good qualities is de-
scribed as being a splendid horseman, for a story is told of him that while attend-
ing a "Saquish" in Plymouth Harbour with two friends he fell asleep, and when
he woke up, to his surprise he found that his friends had ridden away, and that
the tide had risen. He is said to have swum his horse across the channel, where-
upon he took a short cut, and had a bowl of punch ready to greet his fellow country-
men when they arrived somewhat later.

Visitors to the Tercentenary will also visit the nearby attractive town of Dux-
bury, the home of Miles Standish, so called for Duxbury Hall in Lancashire, Eng-
land, the home of his ancestors, and they will also visit the Standish Monument,
his grave, and his spring.

As the pilgrims of 1920 stand on Cole's Hill or Burial Hill and gaze at Plymouth
Harbour, let them remember that three hundred years before, when the '* May-
flower," on April 5, 162 1, after one hundred and ten days' stay, returned to Eng-
land, not one passenger went back in her, not one soul that would not refuse to
exchange the hardships in the New World for the luxuries and comforts in the Old
World; and let the "modern pilgrims" make a vow to preserve the honour and
integrity of this country, given to us by our English ancestors through such un-
tiring determination. In the words of the Latin inscription on Governor Brad-
ford's monument on Burial Hill: "Do not basely relinquish what the Fathers with
difficulty attained."

We shall always esteem the people of old Plymouth, who, we are told, showed
every kindness to these strangers within their gates, for curiously enough not
one of those on the "Mayflower" hailed from there. Since the Pilgrims sailed
there have been many changes in this attractive English port, often called "the
deepHsea Venice," but there still exists the old church of St. Andrew, the massive

PLYMOUTH and SOUTHAMPTON

Pkalotrafli cufyritUii IiUtnutianai Film Sirtici

Binluk-SftaHnl Vnu

THE ARRIVAL OF THE N. C. 4 AT PLYMOUTH, ENGLAND
The reception of the aimien of the N. C. 4 at the Barbican, where they were greeted by the Mayor stand-
ing on the "Mayflower Stone" from which the Pilgrim Fathers sailed in 1610. Commander Read is on
the left of the line of airmen, nearest the Mayor. The N. C. 4 made the first air Sight across the
Atlantic, stopping at the Azores, and at Lisbon, Portugal, finally landing in Plymouth Harbour, England.

tower of which was built in 1460; and there is also standing part of the old castle,
a dead remnant of the past, which gave hospitality to the Pilgrims; the advanced
part of this fortress is called the Barbican, from which the "Mayflower" sailed.
The old Hoe Gate, through which the voyagers to the New World must have passed,
was imfortunately demolished in 1863. The Guildhall has many stained glass
windows depicting scenes in Plymouth's history, one of which represents "The
Departure of the Pilgrims."

From this same port sailed several of the Raleigh expeditions to colonize Vir-
ginia, which was at that time called Raleana; from there also in 1603 set sail the
Gilbert explorers to Chesapeake Bay; and into this harbour returned Gosnold,
Waymouth, and the Fopham colony; from there, too, in 1573 Drake set out on his
famous voyage; and also many fishermen sailed from this port to the New England
coast in the early days. The most recent event of universal importance was the
transatlantic flight of Commander Read of the American Navy, in his biplane
N. C. 4, from Halifax to Plymouth, England, with stc^ on the way. With blm

^ PLYMOUTH and SOUTHAMPTON

w*»*i I u»K^ I.. HrtTJic of New York. OflF the breakwater of the English port, Read
•iimI hi-* ( tvw were escorted into the harbour by British seaplanes flying the Stars
•nil) Ntii|M'?«« ami the Union Jack. It was a dramatic coincidence that Plymouth
^hiMiiil hivo hrcn rhoson for the landing, and it was still more dramatic that the
MiV'M cf rivMHUith should have received the American airmen on the Barbican
iiii ihr {K\u\ Hpot from which the "Mayflower"' sailed two hundred and ninety-
iiitii- v<;M4 hrluir nil a voyage of quite a different character. It is no wonder that
MinlMi 4 Hn* «'^|MM liilly fond of this port, which has meant so much in the history of
I hi • xv<« w(«i It h, inul they have many songs that tell of '^ their dear Plymouth town"
ini<l ih( h "linn Tlymouth sound/' These few lines written by Drayton also call
1,1 inhid till- linpnitana* of this seaport: —

" UiM)!! the British coast, what ship yet ever came
rim I not of Plymouth heares? where those brave

Navies lie,
lioin Canon's thundering throats that all the world

defie?^*

( hi '« h|mm1 on the river IMym, from which it gets its name, is well described in
I III I uiMiJH III ('aiiington:

" Hc)w oft l)y Fancy led,
Swc'c'i Plvm, at mom or eve, I stray with thee:
lint I hiol at shadowy eve, I linger where
Till* tKc»an weds thee, and delighted view,
VnniA rising o*cr the vast Atkmtic surge,
riiinc own, thy Plymouth, — ^nurse of heroes — ^her
Who U'ars thy noble name.'*

I'lyiHoutli Vfiiiy lalli'd by the Saxons, Tameorworth, and later on it became
lifMivMi a^ ^Mjlloii, or South Town. In the time of Queen Elizabeth it became the
I M' I poH <)l l'J)|<lan(l, and Devonshire became the most important coimty.

1 1)1 |ai( >i < x« hiingr of greetings between PljTnouth, England, and Plymouth,
|.f . M Imj>« m>, look platr June 24, 1920, when A. X. Hollely, official representa-
/) ' nl PIviH'iuih, l-.ngland, after being a>nducted to Plymouth Rock where he
>,■. I'junally wchoinrd, and then proceeding to the Town Square, presented to
//;i M':iMi| t)\ Nlciftncn of the Massachusetts town the following set of resolu-
lf> r '*jiM»n«inoialJhK the Tercentenary: —

••DiTKSTAN, Mayor
/\i (» ifui«Wi|/ ol ih«' Count il of the Borough of Phnnoulh held on Monday, the 12th

V\# MM- Mavoi*, Ai.okkmkn ANn Burgesses of the BoROuaa of Plymouth in

; ' •* t"*** 9n\,Ui\ w n«l Mntvrc and hearty greetings to the Selectmen, PLYTfOCTH, Mas-

-,»• If! i'f t #* t 'Ml I'O SrAn.:s of America, on the occasion of the Tercentenary of the Siil-
)/i^ *4 tiift M«yrt«>wf'r from the Barbican, Plymouth, England.

PLYMOUTH and SOUTHAMPTON

Fftma trlHlmuJbya BciUnailUcUr FnnmtrlyiiHiuatttUmt^J.B.Stmi,,

THE WALLS OF SOUTHAMPTON, ENGLAND

Our records show that 'od this 6th day of September, 1620/ during the Mayority of
Thomas Townes, after being kindly entertained and courteously used by divers friends
there dwelling the Pilgrim Fathers sailed from Plymouth in the Mayflower in the provi-
dence of God to settle in New Pljonouth and to lay the foundation of the New England
States.

Even before the sailing of the Mayflower many expeditions sailed from this ancient
Borough on voyages of discovery, notably in 1562-4-6-7 Sir John Hawkins to the West
Indies; in 1570 Sir Humphrey Gilbert to North America; in 1575 John Oxenham to
Mexico; in 1577 Sir Francis Drake in the Pelican on his tour of circumnavigation; in
1583 Sir Humphrey Gilbert to Newfoundland, and Sir Richard Grenville to Virginia; in
1587 Sir Walter Raleigh's expedition to Virginia under John White, and in 1607 the first
settlers in New England who landed at the mouth of the Kennebec.

Coming to recent times, your late ambassador, Dr. W. Hines Page, an Honoraiy
Freeman of Plymouth, made his great pronouncement in the Plymouth Guildhall, on the
third anniversary of the declaration of war, with reference to the glorious entry of the
United States into the war for the freedom of the world.

With great satisfaction we recall that during the war Plymouth was an American
naval base of considerable importance.

Last year we had the honour of welcoming at the historic Barbican your Seaplane the
NC 4, on the completion of the first Transatlantic FUght.

We rejoice to have this opportunity of giving expression to the feelings of friendship
and goodwill which have for so long bound together our two countries, and to express the
confident hope that our historical associations will ever be cherished to the great advantage
of both nations.

40 PLYMOUTH and SOUTHAMPTON

In conclusion we hail our sister town of New Plymouth, and hope that her future may
be one of unbroken i>eace and prosperity.

Given under our Corporate

Common Seal— Lovell R. Dunstan, Mayor.

E. J. LiTTALS, Town Clerk."

This greeting, in a handsome gilt frame, is now in the historic old town house
of Plymouth, Massachusetts.

There are two other Plymouths in New England — one in Maine and one in
Vermont— the latter being the birthplace of Hon. Cahin CooUdge, Governor of
Massachusetts.

Southampton is an ancient walled town on the Test and Itchen Rivers, the latter
the river of Izaak Walton. On every side
the "modem pilgrim" sees relics of the past,
for part of the old wall built in 1338 that
once enclosed the town is still intact, and
the West Gate leading down to the quay
from which the "Mayflower" sailed looks
much the same as it did in 1620 when the
Pilgrims passed through it, which they must
have done many times during their sojourn
there. Bar Gate, a marvelous relic of olden
times, has been restored and now bears a
statue of King George III arrayed, oddly
enough, as a Roman emperor. The "May-
flower" and the "Speedwell" saUed past the
platform with its battery of guns, past Net-
ley Castle, where the Earl of Hertford enter-
tained Queen Elizabeth, and then into the
Solent, past Hurst Castle and the Needles
into the Channel. The old castle of South-
ampton, where long ago King Stephen
reigned, has long since gone, but the ruins
are carefully preserved.

Southampton has always been a great
seaport, but its most romantic trade oc-
curred during the thirteenth, fourteenth,
flfteenth and part of the sixteenth cen-
turies, when the Venetians brought spices, Indian cotton, silks and other
conmiodities to this port. These expeditions were organized by the Venetian
Senate, and the voyages were made in galleys procured in Flanders, with which

Kimlmiu CtfUi* A rtlmr B. Clark

WATER GATE, SOUTHAMPTON, ENGLAND

42 PLYMOUTH and SOUTHAMPTON

country they also traded. Indeed in the Middle Ages Southampton presented
a cosmopolitan appearance, for there were seen many Normans, Gascons and
Flemings, as well as Venetians. At the time of the survey, many French settled
there, and French Street still recalls these days to the passerby. The history of
this city, which will always be of the greatest interest to Americans, goes back
to the third century, when it was called Clausen txun; in 837 the Danes were
repulsed, and in 840 Ethelwulf dated a charter from the "Royal town called
Ham tun/* his successors referring to it as the "celebrated place called Heamtim,"
which shows how important it was in the ninth century. The first authentic
records in Saxon times call the place "Old Hamptun," the word meaning 'home
town.'* In 962 it was named "Suthamtun," or "Suth-hamtun," to distinguish
it from Northampton, as in our State of Massachusetts we have a Southampton,
settled in 1732, which formerly was part of Northampton. Some historians refer
to the English port as " Storied Southampton,** as the place is so rich in history,
legends and traditions.

Here King Alfred carried on his shipbuilding operations; here Canute was
chosen king; here was the port of communication between the Norman and Eng-
lish courts; here Earl Godwin and his son, Harold, owned manors; from here also
John of Gaimt sailed on his expedition to Brittany, returning also to the same
port; here too Henry V assembled his fleet for an expedition to France; and here
used to come many of the people of Charlemagne's court. Here Artemus Ward
died and here also lies buried Edward A. Sothem, the actor, father of the well-known
Edward H. Sothem of the present day. It is interesting to know that many
of our New England soldiers composing the 26th (Yankee) Division stopped here
on the way to France in 191 7. In the eighteenth century the place became a fash-
ionable seaside resort, and assembly rooms similar to those at Bath were built.
At the present time the city has a big population and large suburbs, and is in a
flourishing condition.

There is a town of Hampton in New Hampshire, said to be named for the English
place at the request of Rev. Stephen Bachiler, whose last English living was the
vicarage of St. Mary*s in South Stoneham, near Southampton. The town of South-
ampton on Long Island, undoubtedly named after the English one, was formerly
included in the State of Connecticut, this island being once owned by this New
England State.

"I heard, or seemed to hear, the chiding sea
Say: ^Pilgrim, why so late and slow to come?
Am I not always here, thy summer home?'**

— Emerson.

ANDOVER, MASSACHUSETTS

"For our own Andover so old, and yet so yoimg today,
Who ever to the Mother will loving homage pay,
To an old Borough on the Ande is namesake, mental heir,
Which Saxon men caUed Andover in English Hampshire Fair."

" by Annie Sawyer Downs, read at the 250tb Anmversary of oi

DURING the Great War a well-known Major in the American Army, who
hailed from Andover, Massachusetts, after being taken up in the air on
a pleasure spin in England, was landed some distance from his camp,
whereufwn he set out to walk back. He read the nearest sign board and almost
believed he was near his own home, when, to his surprise, he saw on it "Andover,"
and also the name of another town nearly as well known to him in this country.
This officer was still more surprised to receive on Christmas Day presents of tobacco
and other useful articles sent by Andover, England, and by Brechin, Scotland,
to him and to all our Andover boys who could be found either in or behind the
trenches in France. In welcoming our men in this way, the town of Brechin,
not far from Aberdeen in Scotland, especially shared, for between our Andover and
this Scotch town there have always existed very strong ties, owing to the fact that
many of the settlers in our Andover during the nineteenth century came direct
from Brechin. From there came the original John Smith in 1816, and, after some
other ventures, started in 1836, with his
brother Peter and John Dove, a flax mill in
our Andover. All three of these men were
natives of Brechin, and they induced many
other people of that town to come to
Andover, Massachusetts, as operatives in
their mill. The business is now conducted
under the name of the Smith and Dove
Company, carried on principally by Mr.
George F. Smith, grandson of the pioneer,
John Smith. They also gave to Andover
Theological Seminary in 1865, a Ubrary,
which was named Brechin Hall, after their
birthplace. This building is now the ad-
ministration center of PhiUips Academy and
is probably the most conspicuous structure
on Andover Hill. Brechin Terrace, a short
street in another section of the town, is a
center for Scotch mill operatives, and is also
named after the Scotch town.

.-,, AmOUK.E.&lioiil."

• OamU M. Fmii, £ig.

KliKlmti Claudi U. Fmui. Si«.

BRECHIN HALL,
Andoveb Theouxjical Seidnabv,

ANDOVEB, MASSACmjSETTS,

presented in 1865 by reiidenta of Andover,
MauachuKtts, whose ancestors had come to
this town (rom Brechin, Scotland.

Fkp4tt9fk «■*« Irj F. Frilk fr Ci., Enfiamd

CHANCERY STREET, ANDOVER, ENGLAND

Ptria RtttrUn, Btf.

ANDOVER, MASSACHUSETTS 45

Our town and Brechin have for years been in constant communication, and dur-
ing the World War many gifts were sent from Andover, Massachusetts, to Brechin,
Scotland, including cigarettes, candy and clothing to be distributed among the
Scotch soldiers. The relationship between the two towns is still very close, owing
mainly to the fact that our Andover people have many near relatives in Brechin.

In May of 191 7, Mayor F. W. Bingham of Andover, England, sent the fraternal
greetings of his ancient borough upon the entry of America into the war of Liberty;
this letter was addressed to "The Chief Citizen" and was handed to Harry M.
Eames, Esq., Chairman of the Board of Selectmen of our Andover. This note
was followed by further correspondence, most of which was published in the "An-
dover Townsman," together with extracts from the minutes of the quarterly meet-
ing of the Town Council of old Andover, where the reply of Mr. Eames was read,
describing the patriotism of our town in endeavoring to prosecute the war to a suc-
cessful ending. The "Andover Townsman" in October, 191 7, printed a letter
written by a citizen of our town to the English town and we reproduce part of it,
as it gives us an excellent idea of the early history of our Andover:- —

"As most of our older citizens are descendants of British emigrants of two centuries
or more ago, I need not say that under the conditions of the present war, our town, like
all other towns of our New England, is enthusiastically on the side of our mother country
in its war against the Prussian monarchy. ... I notice (in the ancient Andover, Eng.,
pamphlet) the name of John Abbot. That name is of interest here as one of our early
settlers, the town having been full of Abbots and Abbotts ever since, some of them very
prominent in literary and other lines. It is understood that the name Andover was given
to the town because some of the old settlers had hailed from your Andover, but I do not
think it has ever been authentically understood as to the identity of these Andover emi-
grants. Chandler, Holt, Stevens, Russell are also old names of our Andover. . . .''

Gratification was expressed in the Council of the English town that of the eight
American Andovers to whom the Mayor had written, the Massachusetts town was
the first to respond. One member remarked that it was "extremely interesting to
know that the name of their small conununity should be the source and origin of
so many other towns in the American Republic." Another said that the greet-
ings from our Andover would be of great interest to them and their children in
years to come.

In 1634 some inhabitants of Newtowne (Cambridge) complained of lack of land,
and desired leave to investigate other territory. They looked with favor upon the
property along the Merrimack and Agawam Rivers and their wish was granted
the following year, the Court ordering "that the land about Cochichewick shall
be reserved for a plantation." This property was soon purchased from the Indians
for six poimds and a coat, by John Woodbridge of Newbury, the first minister of
Andover, who was probably assisted by Edmund Faulkner. The purchase was
confirmed by the Court in 1646, and the town was incorporated as Andover, so
named for some of the planters, who came from Andover in Hampshire County,

46 ANDOVER, MASSACHUSETTS

England, the names of Holt, Abbot, Stevens, Poor and Chandler being known in

both Andovers. The names of other early settlers were found on the town records

in our old style of handwriting, and were Simon Bradstreet, the most influential

person in the plantation, and usually referred to as "the worshipful Mr. Simon

Bradstreet," John Osgood, Joseph Parker, Richard Barker, John Stevens, Benjamin

Woodbridge, John Frye, Edmund Faulkner, Robert Barnard, Nathan Parker,

Henry Jaques, Richard Blake, John Lovejoy and others.

There is an English proverb relating to four English towns in Hampshire County,

reading as follows: —

Romsey in the mud,
Southampton on the stones,
Winchester eats the meat,
Andover picks the bones.

The ancient borough and market town of Andover is situated in Hants Coimty
on the river Anton, the word Andover being derived from the Celtic "An,** meaning
spring, and "dour** or "dever*' of similar significance. The discoveries there, in-
cluding a number of tools and weapons, testify to the size of the population which
lived there a thousand years before the advent of the Romans.

The romantic history of King Edgar's marriage with Elfrida occurred in An-
dover; he had heard of Elfrida's beauty, and sent Ethelwold to woo the lady for
him, but she fell in love with the King's emissary, and concealing the facts from
the King, they married; Ethelwold meanwhile reported to the King that Elfrida
was a very ordinary person, but the King evidently discovered the treachery and,
one day while himting, Edgar slew Ethelwold by piercing him through the back,
and Elfrida then became the wife of her husband's murderer. At Dead Man's
Plack, a lonely place close to Andover, is a monument which marks the spot of this
tragedy.

There are also Andovers in Maine, New Hampshire, Connecticut and Vermont.

BARNSTABLE, MASSACHUSETTS

THE Barnstable Church was organized in London in 1616, then went to
Holland, came over the seas to Scituate, Massachusetts, in 1634, and
then moved to Barnstable on Cape Cod five years later. The three
hundredth anniversary of the founding of this First Congregational Church in
London was celebrated in our town in 191 6, on which occasion there was im veiled
a memorial tablet that was placed on the side of a stone monument made of frag-
ments of the former Sacrament Rock, which had been scattered in years gone by.
This memorial is about a mile and a half west of the Court House on the main road
to West Barnstable, and the inscription reads as follows: —

BARNSTABLE, MASSACHUSETTS

Mtf\ /_-.^''^^*^ ■

---

^

Mm

S^ijJ-^-^^VSX^^ ^\ A

^^1

wBB^^B^^^'U ^^^H

V

K^"^4

n

WKjm

1

^H

^^Hi^Jd

^1

^^^^1

« MXXmM Xi>i<w( Jw firhf-JMMiM. £«

THE PARISH CHURCH OF ST. PETER AND ST. PAUL, BARNSTAPLE, ENGLAND

K tide and the bells hang

1639

at this kock .

now in fkaghents

tradition reports that

The Settlers of Barnstable

received the sacrament

FOR THE FIRST TIlfE

IN THEIR NEW ABODE

AND HELD

THEIR FIRST TOWN MEETING

THIS TABLET TO THEIK HEHORY

WAS SET OP

I 9 I 6

It is believed that the first sacrament was administered on the spot where this
rock, is situated, and that the first town meeting was also held there.

The site of the first meeting house adjoins the old burying ground on what is
now known as Lothrop's Hill about one mile west of the court house, and it has
been suggested that a tablet be placed there to record this fact. The land of

Htmry M. ffHkUsff. £•(.

SACRAMENT ROCK, BARNSTABLE, MASSACHUSETTS

BARNSTABLE, MASSACHUSETTS 49

which this site is a part was for many years owned by Captain Matthias Hinckley,
a well-known packet master of Barnstable. The property now belongs to his
grandson Henry M. Hutchings, Esq. The weathercock on the steeple of the
present Unitarian Church building, it is believed, was made in England and was
placed upon the steeple of the church building that was standing in 1723. At the
time of the fire in 1905 which destroyed the building prior to the present edifice,
this weathercock fell to the ground but was not destroyed, and was later placed
upon the present meeting house. In this church there was erected in 1907 a
tablet to the first minister of the Barnstable Church, the Rev. John Lothrop, the
inscription written by Rev. Edward Everett Hale reading as follows: —

1639

REV. JOHN LOTHROP

WAS THE

FIRST MINISTER OF THE BARNSTABLE CHURCH

HE HAD BEEN THE MINISTER OF THE

FIRST INDEPENDENT CONGREGATION IN

ENGLAND

HE WAS IMPRISONED FOR THIS SERVICE

BY ARCHBISHOP LAUD IN LONDON

FOR TWO YEARS

HE WAS RELEASED BY THE KING IN 1 634

THAT HE MIGHT GO INTO EXILE

HE WAS BORN IN 1 584

HE DIED AND WAS BURIED IN BARNSTABLE

NOVEMBER 8, 1 653

A FAITHFUL WITNESS AND MINISTER

I 907

Among other families that went to Barnstable with the Rev. John Lothrop, or
soon after, were the Annables, Bacons, Bournes, Cobbs, Hinckleys and Crockers.
Lothrop was released on condition that he should leave the country, and he there-
fore sailed for Boston in 1634 whence he proceeded to Sdtuate and thence to Barn-
stable. He died in the house which is now incorporated in the building called the
"Sturgis Library," in which house was bom Captain William Sturgis, the well-
known Boston merchant, who presented this building for use as a library and
established a trust fund for its maintenance. The papers necessary to carry out
this gift were executed by him only a few days before his sudden death.

It will be noticed that the English spell the name of the town "Barnstaple"
whereas our way of spelling it is "Barnstable," yet, despite this diflference there
is no doubt that the New England town was named after the one in the romantic
county of Devon on the river Taw. A curious thing about the older town is that
many of the natives speak of it as "Barum," for what reason we have not been able
to learn. The English Barnstaple, which is one of England's seaports, dates back to
the year 925, when Athelstan came there in an attempt to drive the British out of

50 BARNSTABLE, MASSACHUSETTS

what was then called "Damnonia." The andent Britons called the place Tunge
Abertawe, and the Saxons called it Berdenstaple.

The parish church of Barnstaple is in the heart of the town and is supposed to
be the oldest building there, having been dedicated in 13 18 to St. Peter and St.
Paul. Its spire is considered one of the finest examples of such architecture in
England. There are two unusual things connected with this church, — in the first
place the spire leans over to one side, and in the second place its bells hang on the
outside of the spire.

Many burgesses throve in this town on account of the newly discovered tobacco
trade with Maryland and Virginia, and thereby became rich enough to build many
large, handsome houses. For more than a thousand years Barnstaple has been
famous for its pottery, called " Royal Barum Ware." Shakespeare is said to have
visited the to^^^l during one of his theatrical tours. The annual fairs are events of
great importance in both the American and English towns. A traveler to the
mother town notices the singular similarity of the two harbours, especially at
low tide.

BATH, MAINE

TIE "Maine Gazetteer'' states that Bath was named in 1781 by Col. Dum-
mer Sewall, then a member of the General Court of Massachusetts, after
Bath on the English Avon. His great-great-grandson, Harold M. Sewall,
Esq., suggests that this name may have been chosen because of the hymn called
Bath, a favorite in the hymn book of the early settlers. Certain it is that this
frontier settlement presented not the slightest resemblance to the most fashionable
spa of Europe. None of the settlers came from there, and the ships of our Bath
had not yet begun to visit the older city's port of Bristol. Bath, England, has
taken a great deal of interest in her namesake. About fifteen years ago Mr. Sewall
attended a literary celebration in Bath, England, taking with him a letter from the
Mayor, and was received with great consideration by the authorities in the old
city. Later the Mayor of the English city requested that a committee be named
from all the American Baths, of which there are about twenty-five, and Mr.
Sewall was appointed a delegate and is still a member of this committee. In
July, 1909, a great historical pageant was held in the English Bath, and each of the
American Baths was requested to send a girl representative, many of the towns of
this name responding. During the pageant a scene was arranged showing the
introduction of the different towns in the New World to their English mother, and
we quote a few lines of this interesting ceremony: —

"The Ladye Bath," who personifies the City, now makes her way to the Throne, which is set in the
centre, to receive the

HOMAGE FROM THE WESTERN WORLD

By her side is the Swordbearer and a soldier with the British flag. Two maidens representing the Canadian
Baths in Ontario and New Brunswick approach Mother Bath, while the Canadian Anthem, '^O Canada,"
is sung.

BATH, MAINE 51

Ladye Bath.

Welcome! dear Daughters of brave Canada;
All honour to that loyal-hearted land,

A procession approaches of silver-clad maidens, special envoys from the United States, in the drcM
of the Statue of Liberty, led by heralds and pages carrying tanners with the amis of the States of Maine,
New York, Illinois, New Hampshire, North Carolina, South Carolina, South Dakota, Ohio, Kentucky,
Missouri, Pennsylvania, Michigan. The band plays "The Star Spangled Banner."

Ladve Bath.

Hark! 'Tis the coming of the white-robed Maids,
Your neighbours in that wondrous Western World.
Daughters of England, stand at our right hand
The while we give them greeting to our shores.

Ladye Bath comes forward with outstretched arms. The Maidens from the United States of America
raise their banners simultaneously and advance towards l-adye Bath; as they approach they lower their
banners and courtesy to Ladye Bath.

Ladye Bath.

Illustrious Maidens of America,

We welcome you to England and to Bath.

The lintels of our doors are wreathed for you,

The bread is broken, and your place prepared.
One of the Maidens.

Ladye, we thank thee for thy courtesy.

O'er the wide way of the unfathomed sea

We come to bring thee homage from our land,

And share thy tryst with mighty memories.

Strangers we come — to find within thy gates

An open-hearted hospitality.
Ladye Bath.

God is the Father of all folk on earth.

These words of the great Alfred, England's king,

Counsel his sons and daughters to forget

Man's sharp dividing in God's unity;

Wherefore you are not strangers; we are kin.

SIR JOHN AND LADY POP-
HAM MONUMENT IN THE
PARISH CHURCH, WELL-
INGTON. ENGLAND

Sir John Popham was Chief
Justice of Et^land and helped
to encourage many of the early
voyages of exploration to Maine.
He was an uncle of George
Popbanij who established on
the peninsula of Sabino, at
the mouth of the Kennebec, the
first English colony on the
shores of New England.

An interchange between the two cities occurred at the
three hundredth anniversary of American shipbuilding,
which was held in our Bath in 1907, and on this occasion
the Mayor of the English city cabled his greeting.
An ode to the sailing ship of the old days, written by
W. Clark Russell, Esq., the novelist of Bath, England,
was read on this occasion, accompanied by a letter to
Mr. Sewall in which were these words: —

"I was cradled in wood when I came from New York
to Liverpool at the age of six months. I also served in
wood for eight years in frigate-like ships built at Sunder-
land. I shall be laimched with most others on the sea of
eternity in that odd little dug-out called a coffin.

Sa BATH, MAINE

"Wood has played a large part in my life and this forthcoming Trans-Atlantic retro-
spective festival naturally put some little life of pensiveness into the gaze I fastened upon
tJiat nursling of American commercial shipping, Bath, beyond the sea."

Services were held at Bath and at Popham, nearby, which is the exact spot of the
original settlement.

It, is not generally realized that the early settlements of Maine antedated those
in Massachusetts and that our industry of shipbuilding, so important to the early
pioneers, was started in this little settlement at Popham, in 1607, when the early
colonists built a little "Pynnace of thirty tonnes" which they called the"Virginia
of Sagadahock," the first ship built by European hands on the American continent.
There is no record of her career except that she took some of the early colonists
back to England soon after the start of the settlement, and the following year sailed
to Jamestown, Virginia.

Sir Ferdinando Gorges, friend of Raleigh and Governor of Plymouth under
James I, the projector and patron of this little colony of George Popham, — the
brother of the Chief Justice of England,^held out to his sovereign the vast terri-
tory which he sought to colonize, "as promising the increase of the King's Navy,
the breeding of mariners and the employment of his fwople." Not to the glory of
his sovereign, but of the sovereign people of America was this prophecy to be ful-
filled, and in its fulhllment Bath and the banks of the Kennebec have had ao illus-
trious part.

We have no record of the intermittent building of vessels which went on here
for a century and a half following the Popham settlement. Sir William Phips, the
first American to be knighted, and first Governor of Massachusetts Bay, was bom

THE POPHAM MEMORIAL

Etiiyii L. GiUmn

at Fort St. Georee, on the promontory ot Sabino. The memonBl wu placed there in i9< .

the landing of the first Engliah colony on the ihorei ot New Eogtaiid, in 1607, under George P<qiham.

A copy of the itucription ^>peAn on page 55.

BATH, MAINE

S3

Fort Popham ia the old discarded Fort in the center of the picture; the
memorial is indicated by the arrow and the site of Fort St. George is juat
to the right of the arrow. This promontory is called Sabino.

just across the river
and learned the ship-
wright's trade there,
and in 1762 the build-
ing of full rigged ships
became an established
industry, carrying the
name and fame of Bath
to the remotest ports
of the worid. The first
ship was the "Earl of
Bute" built in 1762 by
Captain William Swan-
ton. Over one hundred
and forty years later
the last wooden sailing
ship was built in the
District of Bath; her
name was the" Aryan,"
and she was built by
Minott. Other famous ships of Bath were the first "Rappahannock," 1841;
the second "Rappahannock," 1890; the "Roanoke" and the "Shenandoah,"
at the time of their launching the largest wooden ships afloat; the "Dingo,"
1894, the first steel sailing ship built in America; and the "William P. Frye"
sunk by the German cruiser "Prinz Eitel Friedrich," January 38, 1915, the
first American ship simk by Germany; all of the above vessels were built and
owned by the Sewalls. In the long roll of builders of Bath square riggers may be
mentioned as types — space not allowii^ justice to all — the names of William King,
Maine's first Governor, Crooker, Drummond, Houghton, Reed, Rideout, Patten
and Rogers, and no history of Bath shipbuilding is complete without adding the
name of Hyde, father and son, who gave to the Bath Iron Works its acknowledged
pre-eminence in speed design and naval building. Four other plants connected
with shipbuilding at present in Bath are the Texas Steamship Company, the Hyde
Windlass Company, the G. C. Dearing Company and Percy & Small; the two last
named concerns building wooden ships.

The original settlement by George Popham and his colony was on the peninsula
of Sabino, at the mouth of the Kennebec, and here also was celebrated the two
hundred and fiftieth anniversary of the inauguration of the first civil government
on these shores, and likewise the building of this little ship "Virginia of Sagada-
hock" was again honoured. It must be remembered that the Kennebec River,
known in the old days as S^adahock, meaning "here it ends," has the honour of

BATH, MAINE

Pktupath h F- Frilk (r Co.. Entlcni

Pirba-giittrlHm. Bif .

■DOUGHBOYS" AT ROMAN BATHS, BATH, ENGLAND

Uth

e hundred years ago.

having witnessed the first successful attempt of English colonization on the New
England coast; it may also be of interest to mention that between the years 1607
and 1622 over one hundred and nine English vessels entered the nearby harbours.

At the time of this two hundred and fiftieth anniversary of the settlement, the
United States Government began the construction of a fort near the supposed site
of the old one erected by the Popham colonists. At the suggestion of the Maine
Historical Society, a stone, with a suitable inscription, was gotten ready, but the
building of the fort was postponed owing to the fact that the Government decided
it would not be an adequate defence for the mouth of the Kennebec River.

In the meantime it was discovered that the Popham Colonists did not occupy
the exact site of the old fort and, therefore, a new stone was placed at the proper
site of Fort St. George on the promontory nearby, the dedication ceremonies being
performed by Bishop Robert Codman, following the exact ritual read by Richard
Seymour, the Chaplain of the Popham Colonists. The inscription on the memorial
reads as follows : —

BATH, MAINE 55

The First English colony

On the shores of New England

was founded here

August 29 N. S. 1607

under George Popham.

A salute was also fired on this occasion, in honour of Popham, the first (lovemor
of the Colony, who died there and who was buried within the enclosure of the fort.
This memorial is placed on a rocky point on Sabino Hill overlooking the fort and
adjoining the Government reservation. Several years before Popham landed at
the mouth of the Kennebec, Captain George Waymouth made a voyage to this
coast, landing at Monhegan Island, then called St. George's Island, whence he
proceeded probably up the St. George's River. He returned to Dartmouth, Eng-
land. To conunemorate his discovery and exploration, the Maine Historical Society
in 1905, on the three hundredth anniversary of his voyage, erected a cross on Allen's
Island in St. George's Harbour, similar to the cross Waymouth himself set up at
this place, thus making the earliest known claim of right of possession by an English-
man on New England soil. These services were attended by J. B. Keating, Esq.,
British Vice-Consul at Portland, Maine, who made a speech on this occasion. A
tablet has also been placed in Thomaston in memory of Waymouth.

We have obtained a picture of some doughboys, three hundred of whom were
guests of the Mayor of the English Bath on Independence Day, 1918, and who must
have shown great interest in viewing the old Roman relics over nineteen hundred
years old. The Baths were turned over to the allied armies during the War,
and many soldiers have regained their health at this famous spring, as generations
past have done, according to these two well-known lines: —

"A seething bath which men yet prove
Against strange maladies a sovereign cure."

The discovery of the baths is somewhat uncertain; some historians claim that the
father of Shakespeare's King Lear discovered these waters over eight hundred
years before the Christian Era; while others are inclined to believe in the legend
that Prince Bladud, son of Lud Hudibras, King of Britain, being banished from
the kingdom on account of leprosy, hired himself out as a swineherd and, in the
course of his wanderings, happened to cross the waters of the Avon where he dis-
covered one of his sows, affected with the same malady, wallowing in the mud about
some bubbling hot springs. When the animal came out, he was amazed to find
that it was entirely cured. The young prince was also cured, returned to his father's
palace, and later when he became king he is said to have founded a dty at these
springs. Up to this day it has been one of the earth's secrets, unsolved by scientists.
The life at Bath, England, in the eighteenth century, presents a striking con-
trast to that of the little American city. While the settlement upon the Kennebec
was recovering from the hostile invasions of the Indians and was firmly establish-

from North Parade Bridge, showing the Abbey.

Pnm t thttntli h P- frU tr Ct.. Enfant Ktaimm lt» FortH-JMcrtiM, fit(.

THE ROYAL CRESCENT, BATH, ENGLAND

BATH, MAINE 57

ing itself upon the shores of the New World, the English city, under the rule of
"Beau Nash," as "Master of Ceremonies,*' was the domain of fashion and gaiety,
the center for the beau tnonde of England. Morning, noon and evening had their
allotted pleasures, from the early revels at Spring Gardens to the fashionable balls
at night. Varied indeed has been the history of this "Queen City of the West,"
as the English often call it, ever since its foundation, and not only has it been a
health resort, but also a center of fashionable society and a Mecca for artists and
men of letters. During the days of civil strife, Round Heads and Cavaliers fought
in its streets.

At the time of Charles the Second, Bath was the favorite resort of royalty and
celebrities, and among the latter have been Rochester, Addison, Walpole, Sheri-
dan, Steele, Fielding and Pope, and that splendid circle of buildings known as
**The Circus" has had many noted residents including Gainsborough the artist,
and William Pitt, first Earl of Chatham; Jane Austen was also a frequent visitor
at Bath, and her novels are said to be founded on Bath society; in fact Mrs. Sid-
dons called herself a "Child of Bath." Pepys, too, visited the city, and recorded
in his diary his experiences at one of the baths, concerning which he writes: —

"Methinks it cannot be clean to go so many bodies together in the same water."

Many kings and seven queens have gone there in search of health, and it has
been said that the winter season at Bath was regarded as little less important
than the spring season in London.

Edmund Burke, who in 1797 lived in the fine central house of the stately North
Parade, tenanted in 1771 by Oliver Goldsmith, proved a true friend to the Amer-
ican colonists during their struggle for freedom, and an eloquent tribute to his
political virtues was delivered by the late Hon. Whitelaw Reid, when he went to
Bath on October 22, 1908, to inaugurate the memorial tablet conmiemorating
Burke's last sojourn on the banks of the Avon. "There are few English cities,"
said Mr. Reid, "which more strongly appeal to my countrymen than Bath, once
the abiding place of Burke and the elder Pitt." General Wolfe and Major Andr6
also lived there.

In King's Bath is an effigy of Bladud, with an inscription nearby, recalling the
legend that he was "the founder of these baths 863 years before Christ."

The Abbey is the architectural feature of the dty and in it is a monument to
the memory of Hon. W. Bingham, President of the United States Senate in 1797.

Readers of Dickens will also remember that Pickwick visited Bath, and on the
coach in which he travelled was painted the owner's name, which strangely enough
was Moses Pickwick, as referred to by Sam Weller. Few readers of Dickens, how-
ever, realize that this name on the coach was actually an historical fact. Bath
has often been called England's "Florence," "Waters of the Sun," "City of Fash-
ion," and "Bath the Magnificent; " by the Romans it was called Aquae Sulis.

58 BATH, MAINE

Fittingly, we may conclude with an allusion to another link between the Amer-
ican and the English Bath: Thomas Pownall, Governor of Massachusetts, 1751-60,
was a firm friend of the Colonists, and understood America as no other English-
man. He was bom in Lincoln, England, and for this reason the ancient county of
Lincoln in the Province of Maine, often styled the Mother of Maine Counties,
received its name. This is the county in which Bath was situated, until set oflF
into the County of Sagadahock. Pownalborough across the river was the shire
town, and Thomas Pownall from whom it was named died in the EngUsh Bath.

BELFAST, MAINE

THE toss of a coin about the year 1770 decided the question as to whether
Belfast, Maine, should be so called or whether it should be named London-
derry, from the town of the same name in New Hampshire whence most
of the settlers in the Maine town had come a short time previously. A dispute
had arisen as to the name of this new settlement, but James Miller, who with his
wife and children was the first person to set foot on shore when their vessel reached
these new lands, was determined that it should be named for Belfast, County An-
trim, Ireland, the place of his birth. Some authorities claim that Miller's son,
Robert, named Belfast, but this cannot be so because at that time the son was
only twelve years of age. Miller finally, however, agreed to have this question
decided in the manner already described. The town, now a city, was incorporated
in 1773. The two Belfasts have often been thought to resemble one another in
certain ways, for both places are divided by rivers which empty in each case into
Belfast Bay; moreover both harbours afford very safe anchorage and are particu-
larly attractive, the word "Belfast" signifying "Beautiful Harbour," an appella-
tion most appropriate to both places.

The daring adventurers consisting of about thirty persons, first journeyed
from Londonderry to Haverhill in May, 1770, and from there they went down the
river and along the coast to Newburyport. From there they sailed north and after
a hard week arrived at Northport, which they mistook for Belfast, and the name
given to the harbour there was Saturday Cove, which name it still bears. These
pioneers, who were of the same Scotch-Irish descent as the settlers of Londonderry,
New Hampshire, then sailed along the coast from Northport a short distance until
they reached Belfast. It is no surprise that they made such a success of this Maine
enterprise, for we find them described by Hon. Charles H. Bell in these words:
"There has been almost no place of eminence, political, literary, or professional,
to which men of this descent have not attained. The niunber of them whose names
have been, written in history is endless." Among these settlers was John Mitchell
who came from Ireland to New England with his young son and, on a visit to Pas-
samaquoddy, Maine, in 1668, learned that this large tract of fifteen thousand

lain h F. Frilk tt Ct.. Bmth^

BELFAST, IRELAND,
■bowing tlie Albert Memorial Clock Tower.

Kiadmui If Fniu-iMatiim. Btf.

BELFAST, MAINE

<il (^ Vlilf in Uu lolk Ctmlury." by foicrl U. K«M. B^ .. J.F., fm

fir if Won, Entfani

Frtm a wMf coltr in ftisasiim 1/ Q. Clark. il.P.

HIGH STREET, BELFAST, IRELAND, IN 1786

4hW.T.PilHlr Cm..

acres of land was for sale at the price of twenty cents per acre; he inspected it and
was so impressed by its natural beauty and advantages that on his return to London-
derry, New Hampshire, be persuaded his friends to purchase it. A meeting was
held at the house of David Craig, and a "Community" or "Proprietary" was
formed to purchase these lands, then known merely as a "tract on the southerly
side of a township granted to Co. Goldtbwait at Penobscot Fort." There was a
very interesting and unusual condition imposed in the purchase agreement that
"we bind ourselves that no one shall own a right amongst us that is unable to pro-
duce a certificate of good moral character to the satisfaction of the community and
to the gentlemen of which the purchase is made." Mitchell was the largest pur-
chaser of land and is usually referred to as the founder of the town.

The lives of these settlers were full of hardship, and there is a record of one
person who wrote home, "No cleared land in sight and no house except our cabin,
composed of logs, through which holes were cut for doors and windows, with hem-
lock bark for roof."

BELFAST, MAINE

CASTLE PLACE, BELFAST, IRELAND, IN 1843

The mother town in Ireland is situated on the river Lagan, just before it enters
Belfast Bay, which was often the resort of roving Danes in the early centuries.
Belfast has been spelled in many ways: BeMrst, Belfeirste, Ballfaste, Bealfast
and Belferside being the usual way of spelling it in histories. The oldest name
of the ground on which Belfast is situated was Ballyrecoolegalgie and this part of
Ulster was originally named Uladh. The Irish najne for Belfast was Beal-na-farsad
or Beta Fearsad, meaning in the Irish language "mouth of the ford."

The authentic history of Belfast really begins with the Norman knight John de
Courci who owned the counties of Antrim and Down and who built the first castle
at Belfast in 1177. Belfast cannot claim the antiquity of Dublin as its history
does not go back beyond the twelfth century, but during the latter part of the
seventeenth century it is described by some writers as being the second town of
Ireland. It is not known definitely when the Castle was built, but its career has
been replete with history; it was held by De Maundeville, an Anglo-Norman,
about 1300, later it came into the possession of Hugh O'Neill, and in 1560 it be-
longed to Queen Elizabeth. Still later the Castle again reverted to another member
of the O'Neill family, one of the most important names in Belfast history, and
finally it was granted at the beginning of the seventeenth century to Sir Arthur
Chichester, who was the first Earl of Donegal, and who improved the city to such

62 BELFAST, MAINE

an extent that it reached its era of greatest prosperity at this time; in fact lie was
the real founder of modem Belfast in the year 1601. The possession of the Castle
in the early days was almost equivalent to the ownership of Belfast itself. Sir
John Chichester, younger brother of Arthur Chichester, once captured the Casde.
He was killed and beheaded by MacDonnell. The story is told that some tnae
later MacDonnell went to see the Chichester family tomb in St. Nicholas' Chmdl
at Carrickfergus near Belfast, and upon seeing Sir John's effigy, the warrior b^
quired, ''How the de'il came he to get his head again, for I was sure I had onoe
ta'en it frae him?"

The old church near the town was called in the fourteenth century the ''WUte
Church,'' this name being later changed to " Church of St. Patrick of the Old Fotd;"
this was the mother church of the district, a branch chapel called '' Chapel of tte
Ford'' being the forerunner of the future church of Belfast. Near the site of this
church, on High Street, now stands St. George's. The first Roman Catholic priest
of Belfast was Rev. Phelomy O'Hamill, and the date of his coming was about the
year 1704.

The first stage to Dublin was started in 1752 and three days were required in
making the difficult journey; some years later another stage line was inaugurated
to Newry and the coach traveled with such speed that it was called the "Newry
Flying Coach." In earlier days it is said that the female shopkeepers of Belfast,
when they found it necessary to make a journey to Dublin, usually went by pillion.

In the eighteenth century Belfast was the scene of many sports, chief of which
were cock-fights and the Ballymacash horse races. Sugar refining was one of the
leading industries of Belfast as early as 1683, George Macartney, one of the lead-
ing citizens of the town, owning a large plant. The first Linen Hall, which was
used as a trading market, was erected in the year 1739. The town also had its
salt works, its woolen mill, a ship building plant, glass works, a brewery and a
rope walk. Among the most prominent families of the city are the Warings, Pottin-
gers, Knoxes and Legges.

BEVERLY, MASSACHUSETTS

BEVERLEY, England, which is always spelled with an "e" before the "y,"
is an attractive town closely associated with romance, traditions and strug-
gles. The town was in olden times called ** Beverlega " and later " Beverlac "
or **Beverlaco" from the great numbers of beavers that abounded in this locality,
the name later being changed to ** Beverley." The beaver has always been accepted
as the sjonbol of the town, and on a cloth shield which Constitutional Lodge No.
294 in Beverley, England, some years ago, sent over to Liberty Lodge in our
Beverly, the figure of a beaver appears twice conspicuously among the other attrac-
tive decorations. This beautiful present, which is shown in the cut on page 63,

BEVERLY, MASSACHOSETTS

lycv:«3*j«Si

^ '^tll J 9 bin

^ tun) *»->».-.>

CLOTH SHIELD
in the loomBof Liberty Lodge, Beverly, Mas-
lachuMtti, presented by Conatitutional Lodge
No. 194, Beverley, England. The beaver is
the symbol of the English town, which received
its name on account of the number of these
animaU wMch abounded in that locality in
olden times.

Kimimai WarMffMl UaMr B. FrantHii If array, mI Jtn.

REPLY OF THANKS
sent by Const! tutiooal Lodge No. 394, of Bever-
ley, England, to Libemr Lodge, Beveriy, Masia-
chusetts, for pieaents of a lovinx cup, moosebead,
and beaver, sent to the EDoliah lodge by the
Massachusetts lodge. For the wording ot this
letter see page 64.

hangs in the rooms of the Lodge. Interchange of friendly relations between the two
Lodges was originated by the Earl of Londesborough of Beverley, England, and
Charles Woodberry of Beverly, Mass., now deceased, who was a brother of George
E. Woodberry, the author and poet; and pictures of these two men, who have done
so much to promote these exchanges, now hang on the walls of the American Lodge.
Liberty Lodge is also closely connected with the Alexandria-Washington Lodge
in Virginia, of which George Washington was once Master, and on the walls of the
Beverly Lodge is a very fine painting of the " Father of his Country " in his Masonic
robes. Both these Lodges hold their great banquets each year on Washington's
Birthday, and presents on these occasions are exchanged. The English Lodge always
remembers the event and sends presents to Liberty Lodge. When the late Earl
of Londesboroujih was alive he always sent large hampers of game from his own
preserves, also ivy, mistletoe and laurel, to make the occasion an enjoyable one;

BEVERLY, MASSACHUSETTS

Ptflairafll tv P. Prilk

Pfbtl-KtitrUM, £]f.

BEVERLEY MINSTER, BEVERLEY, ENGLAND,

e of the finest Gothic churches in England. On the walls of Liberty Lod<;e, Beverly, Mas

hang a number of pictures of this cathedral and of this English town.

and Thomas Foley, the present Secretary of the English Lodge, still continues the
custom of sending presents to the American Lodge. Some years igo, Liberty
Lodge, Beverly, sent over among other gifts a large moosehead, a loving cup and a
magnificent beaver which was captured by one of our backwoodsmen. The beaver
and loving cup are in the rooms of the English Lodge, while the moosehead is in the
residence of the late Earl of Londesborough, Blanckney Lodge. Their reply of
thanks elaborately illuminated is hung on the walls of Beverly Lodge, and reads
as follows : —

"To the W. M. and Brethren of Liberty Lodge, Beverly, Mass. U. S. A.
Fraternal Greeting. We the W. M. officers and Brethren of the Con-
stitutional Lodge of Free and Accepted Masons, Beverley No. 294, on
the Register of the Grand Lodge of England, Record in open lodge assem-
bled our sincere thanks and hearty good wishes to the Brethren of
liberty Lodge for their handsome Present of a Silver Loving Cup given
in conunemoration of the Constitutional Lodge attaining its Centenary.
17 June 1893"

BEVERLY, MASSACHUSETTS

NORTH BAR, BEVERLEV, ENGLAND

K.Wtaini.Siq.

It is interesting to notice that this letter was dated June 17, Constitutional Lodge
having thoughtfully picked out the date of the Battle of Bunker Hiil in order to
show that no ill feeling between the countries any longer existed. Return presents
were sent to Liberty Lodge, including engravings, paintings, photographs, a Union
Jack, two dozen old-fashioned "fireing" glasses, as they are called, and an attrac-
tive set of drinking glasses, each one of which has the picture of a beaver on it.
On the walls of the American Lodge are a dozen or so photographs of Beverley and
the Minster, and there is also a large photograph of the same church in the main
room of the Ixxige. It may be interesting also to record that the American Lodge
raised a sum of money to help repair the statues on the outside of the English
Cathedral, and in addition to this, during the war, the American Lodge sent money
to Constitutional Lodge to take care of its woimded soldiers. Still another inter-
change of presents is interesting to note; while St. John's Church at Beverly Farms,
Mass., was being built, the Beverley Minister sent to the Rev. E. J. V. Huiginn
two ^lendid photographs to decorate the vestry room of the Church.

In 1Q06 Roland W. Boyden, Esq., of Liberty Lodge was the official representa-
tive to the EngUsh Lodge and was treated with great hospitality by the members

BEVERLY, MASSACHUSETTS

THE MARKET PLACE, BEVERLEY, ENGLAND

of the Beverley fraternity, among whom were John Elwell, Esq., the Master, Brother
Hobson, Brother Gates, Brother Thomson Foley, the Secretary, and Brother Tpm
Turner. On his return Mr. Boyden gave an account of his visit at a meeting of
Liberty Lodge held on October 31, 1906, and in this address he said: "The Eng-
lish, too, feel strongly the race tie which exists between the two countries, and
they feel pride in the progress and success of the English blood on this ^de
of the water."

Near the spot where the Beverley Minster now stands there used to be a mon-
astery which was built in 721 AJ>. by St. John of Beverley, who was at the time
Archbishop of York; and to him the town, therefore, owes much of its prosperity.
The Danes destroyed the town, together with the monastery, which was rebuilt,
St, John of Beverley being then canonized and his bones enshrined in the new
church. There is much interesting history attached to this place. Edward II visited
Beverley previous to the battle of Bannockbum. His Ught horsemen in the battle
were named "hobelers" on account of the small horses they rode, but they showed
such bravery that they are supposed to have originated the well-known proverb,
"Don't ride your hobby to death." In 1759 the Fifteenth York East Riding
Regiment of Foot, which sailed against Quebec under General Wolfe and was cap-
tured, had its headquarters in the town, and they were jokingly called by some
"The East Chalkshire Volunteers." In the old days thtf townspeople were much
interested in bull-baiting and cock-fighting, which sports were indulged in by the

BEVERLY, MASSACHUSETTS 67

Athenians and the Romans. Beverley also held many horse races and had a famous
himt called the "Holdemess Himt," of which Tom Hodgson was the Master for
many years beginning from the year 1824. He had his kennels at Beverley and
lived only for himting, and often after the runs the members dined together in the
Beverley Arms Hotel. It is also mentioned that the cherry brandy used on these
occasions was "no bad jumping powder in this coimtry of drains/' but that it went
down a bit more easily if one looked at the attractive inscription on the bottle.
The Master lived in such an humble room that it is said he could sit on his bed, stir
the fire, and see his hounds through a hole in the wall, all at once. This well-
known huntsman covered such distances on his runs that the people of the town
said his men were made of cast iron, his horses of steel, and his hounds of india-
rubber. In the very old days there was much horse-stealing in the country,
which suggested the untrue saying, "If you shake a bridle over the grave of a York-
shireman, he will arise and steal a horse."

Beverly, Massachusetts, was so named in the year 1668, the settlement having
previously been called Mackerel Cove or Bass River. The place was originally
part of Naumkeag, which included Salem, Marblehead, Manchester, Wenham,
Danvers and some adjacent territory. It belonged to John, Sagamore of Agawam,
who welcomed the new comers and made them a free grant of this entire territory.
The first permanent settlement here was made by Roger Conant, John and William
Woodberry, John Balch and Peter Palfrey in 1630. These five men all belonged
to the Church of England. In 1668 Bass River was incorporated into a township
by the name of Beverly, and the first selectmen included Thomas Lothrop, William
Dixey, William Dodge, Sr., John West and Paul Thomdike. Three years later
Roger Conant drew up a petition for a change of name which starts as follows: —

"The hxmible petition of Roger Conant, of Bass River alias Beverly,
who hath bin a planter in New England fortie yeers and upwards, being
one of the first, if not the very first, that resolved and made good my
settlement under God in matter of plantation with my family in this
collony of the Massachusets Bay, and have bin instrumental, both for
the founding and carrying on of the same; '*

adding that

"Now my mnble suite and request is unto this honorable Court, onlie
that the name of our towne or plantation may be altered or changed
from Beverly to be called Budleigh. I have two reasons that have
moved me unto this request. The first is the great dislike and dis-
content of many of our people for this name of Beverly, because (we
being but a small place) it hath caused on us a constant nickname of
Beggarly, being in the mouths of many, and no order was given, or
consent by the people to their agent for any name until we were shure
of being a town granted in the first place.

Secondly. I being the first that had house in Salem (and neither had
any hand in naming either that or any other town) and myself with
those that were then with me, being all from the western part of Eng-

68 BEVERLY, MASSACHUSETTS

land, desire this western name of Budleigh, a market towne in Devon-
shire, and neere unto the sea, as wee are heere in this place, and where
myself was borne. Now in regard of our firstnesse and antiquity in this
soe famous a collony, we should xunblie request this small preveledg
with your favors and consent, to give this name above said, unto our
town. I never yet made sute or request unto the Generall Court for
the last matter, tho' I thinke I might as well have done, as many others
have, who have obtained much without hazard of life, or preferring the
public good before their own interest, which, I praise God, I have done."

The Court replied that it could **see no cause to alter the name of the place as
desired,'' much to the disgust of the petitioner. Conant was bom in Budleigh,
England, in 1591; in 1623 he came over here to Plymouth, then moved to Nan-
tasket, later to Cape Ann, and finally to Salem, living to the ripe age of eighty-
nine. John Balch came from Bridgewater, Somersetshire, England.

BRISTOL, MAINE

(Also New Hampshire, Vermont, Rhode Island and Connecticut)

THERE is a Bristol in each of the New England States with the exception of
Massachusetts, and most of them have derived their name from Bristol,
England, which port almost takes rank with Plymouth, England, as having
been the home or starting point of many of the early voyages of exploration to the
New England coast, and particularly to Maine. The merchants of the English
Bristol, in the early days, took a great deal of interest in all the suggested ventures
to the American shores, and their interest was encouraged in many cases by the
dty authorities. The earliest explorers whose names are connected with the Eng-
lish dty were John Cabot, who resided there, and his son Sebastian, who claimed
he was bom at "Bristowe," meaning Bristol. In 1497 Henry VII granted letters
patent to John Cabot, who with his son Sebastian set sail in the "Matthew," and
succeeded in discovering the continent of North America, landing first at Cape
Breton. Cabot also made a second voyage along the Atlantic coast, and it has
often been asserted that he opened the way towards the English colonization of our
shores. A large tower was erected to the memory of John Cabot on Brandon Hill,
Bristol, England, in 1897, conmiemorating the four hundredth anniversary of his
great discovery. There are three bronze tablets on the tower, one recording the
laying of the comer stone by the Marquess of Dufferin and Ava, in Jime, 1897,
and the dedication of the tower by him in the following year. The second tablet
reads as follows: —

This tablet is placed here by the Bristol Branch of the Peace Society in
the earnest hope that Peace and Friendship may ever continue between
the kindred Peoples of this Coimtry and America.

Glory to God in the Highest, and on Earth Peace, Goodwill

toward men. Luke ii. 14.

70

BRISTOL, MAINE

The third tablet is worded as follows: —

This Tower

was erected by public subscription

in the 6 1 st year of the Reign of Queen Victoria,

to commemorate the fourth centenary of

the Discovery of the Continent of

North America

on the 24th of June, 1497 by

John Cabot

who sailed from this port in the

Bristol Ship 'Matthew' with a Bristol crew

under Letters Patent granted by King Henry VII

to that Navigator and his Sons

Lewis, Sebastian, and Sanctus.

Another memorial has been raised to John and Sebastian Cabot in the form of a
bronze tablet placed on St. Augustine's Bridge in Bristol, bearing the following
inscription : —

From this port John Cabot and his son
Sebastian (who was born in Bristol) sailed
in the ship Matthew a. d. 1497 and dis-
covered the continent of Nortii America.

In the Church of St. Mary Redcliffe is still to
be seen the "Dun Cow" bone, the rib of a cow
whale, which is the only remaining trophy of
Cabot's expedition, and which for some time
was considered part of the body of George
Warwick. This great seaport is also closely
associated with the adventures of Martin
Frobisher, and it may also be interesting to
mention that here lie the remains of Admiral
William Penn, the father of the famous Lord
Proprietor and governor of Pennsylvania. It
may interest the reader also to mention that
the steamships "Great Britain" and "Great
Western," the latter being the pioneer of
transatlantic steam traffic, were launched at
this English seaport. Shipping is still carried
on quite extensively, although not by large
vessels, and a particularly picturesque feature
is that ships can sail into the very heart of the
town, as shown in one of our cuts. A few feet
from these docks is the fashionable shipping
street, and nearby is the cathedral.

PRING MEMORIAL
in St. Stephen's Church, Bristol, England,
pUced there to commemorate the well-
known voyages of Capt. Martin Pring to
the Maine Coast and to the Elost Indies.
The first part of the inscription is given in
our test on page ji.

BRISTOL, MAINE

showing the

tfalaUy/ir On Stale Sbtl Tr

BRISTOL, ENGLAND,
•J of the city and Che docks, the latter being a picturesque feature of [Us seaport.

An object of interest to Americans is the Portland Street Wesleyan Methodist
Chapel, which was founded by Captain Webb who is said to be the founder of
Methodism in America. A window in this chapel represents him preaching in his
scarlet uniform with his sword beside him. Another interesting fact connected
with Bristol is the splendid collection of pastel portraits exhibited in the Bristol
Art Gallery by James Sharpies who lived in America for several years and who died
in New York in 1811. He made portraits of all the famous persons of his time in-
cluding George Washington, Mrs. Washington, Alexander Hamilton, John Adams,
Thomas Jefferson, James Madison, Mrs. Madison, Aaron Burr and many others.
Bristol, England, is situated on both banks of the Avon, and was regarded at one
time as the second capital of the kingdom. When the Queen of James II made a
visit to the town in 1613 she enjoyed it so much that she said "she never knew she
was Queen until she came to Bristol."

There is an interesting memorial in St. Stephen's Church, Bristol, England,
to Captain Martin Pring, who sailed twice, probably from Bristol, on his well-
known voyages to the Maine coast. His first achievement in 1603 was cele-

72 BRISTOL, MAINE

brated in Portland, Maine, on its three hundredth anniversary. We give a
cut of this monument in Bristol, England, on page 70. Part of the inscription
reads as follows: — ■

To the Pious Memorie of Martin Pringe, Merchaunt, etc., etc.

His painefull, skillfull, travayles reacht as farre
As from the Artick to the Antartick starre;
He made himself A Shippe. Religion
His onely Compass, and the truth alone
His guiding Cynosure: Faith was his Sailes,
His Anchour Hope.

There are also tablets erected in St. Peter's Church in Bristol to Robert Aldworth
and Giles Elbridge, two prominent Bristol merchants who in 1626 bought Monhegan
Island, off the Maine coast, from Abraham Jennings, and who also obtained a
grant of twelve thousand acres of land at Pemaquid in 1631, from which territory
has sprung Bristol, Maine. This island of Monhegan, formerly called St. George's
Island, was one of the fishing ports used in the early days by the fishermen of the
British Isles.

Bristol, Maine, was incorporated as a town in 1765 and was so called because
of the connection of its early history with so many citizens of England, although
it is not known by whom the name was suggested. The first title to these lands
was acquired by John Brown who bought the present territory and Damariscotta
in 1625. The early conveyancer of these lands was Abraham Shurt, and Nathaniel
I. Bowditch, the well-known Boston conveyancer, dedicated his book "to the
memory of Abraham Shurt, the father of American conveyancing, whose name is
associated alike with my daily toilet and my daily occupation." There is a tablet
erected to conmiemorate the execution of this first deed in America which conveyed
a large part of Pemaquid, including Bristol, from the well-known Sagamore Samoset
to John Brown. Sewall wrote that "Pemaquid under titles from the President of
the Council of New England became a noted place and the busiest on the coast."
Pemaquid at this time included the land east of Falmouth, now Portland, and west
of the Penobscot River.

It may be interesting to mention that some of the Popham people are supposed
to have landed at Pemaquid in 1607, and there is a tablet placed in the tower built
over the Fort at Pemaquid Harbour to commemorate the landing of these English-
men on the New England shores.

Bristol, Rhode Island, received its name in 1681 and was probably named for
the English town of this name, although we have been unable to trace any con-
necting links; however, its broad street was laid out by an Englishman. At one
time this Rhode Island town was the fourth largest seaport in the coimtry, and a
large commerce with the world was carried on from there.

VttkSyf.Friai(^C:.Ewt'"^

Kimimii tm Fnrta-Rebtrtitn, Biq.

CAMBRIDGE, ENGLAND
Wtw on the Cam.

74 BRISTOL, MAINE

Bristol, Vermont, was originally granted to Samuel Averill and sixty-two of his
associates and was first called '^Pocock" for the distinguished English Admiral of
this name; the name Bristol was given in the year 1789.

CAMBRIDGE, MASSACHUSETTS

ATTER GOD HAD CARRIED US SAFE TO NEW ENGLAND

AND WEE HAD BUILDED OUR HOUSES
PROVIDED NECESSARIES FOR OUR LTVELI HOOD
REARD CONVENIENT PLACES FOR GOD'S WORSHIP

AND SETLED THE CIVILL GOVERNMENT
ONE OF THE NEXT TmNGS WE LONGED FOR

AND LOOKED AFTER WAS TO ADVANCE LEARNING

AND PERPETUATE IT TO POSTERITY
DREADING TO LEAVE AN ILLITERATE MINISTERY
TO THE CHURCHES WHEN OUR PRESENT MINISTERS

SHALL LIE IN THE DUST

THESE memorable words on a tablet at the right of the Johnson Gate, on the
west side of Harvard College Yard, are taken from "New England's First
Fruits, '' a pamphlet published in London in 1643; these lines show us that
the struggling colony, which could raise only sixty poimds to defend itself from the
Indians, appropriated four htmdred pounds to guard itself against ignorance. Oppo-
site this tablet near the Johnson Gate is another one which records that the "colledge
is ordered to bee at Newetowne;" that "Newetowne henceforward be called Cam-
brige;" and that the "colledgeshallbee called Harvard.'* There is another tablet
on the comer of Boylston Hall facing Massachusetts Avenue, which probably has
been read by very few of the thousands of students who have been at Harvard,
and who, therefore, may not be aware of the fact that Cambridge was once called
Newtown, sometimes also spelled Newtowne. The words on this tablet are as

follows: —

Here was the homestead
of Thomas Hooker
1633-36
First pastor at Newtown.

It will be remembered that this is the same Hooker who journeyed to, and foimded,
Hartford, Connecticut. There are other tablets in the yard which must be es-
pecially interesting to the many English visitors who have been at Harvard, as they
show that three of the oldest and finest buildings of Harvard College were named
for English benefactors. Hollis Hall, built by the Province in 1763, was named in
honour of Thomas Hollis of London, merchant, and members of his family who
were benefactors of the College; Hoi worthy was built by a state lottery in 181 2
and was named for an English merchant. Sir Matthew Holworthy, who in 168 1
gave one thousand poimds, the largest gift received by Harvard College up to that

CAMBRIDGE, MASSACHUSETTS

Fnm • fklapitk Kltdmii Un. Utry fifM Kint

EMBdANUEL COLLEGE, CAMBRIDGE, ENGLAND,
the coUege John Harvard attended.

time; Holden Chapel was btult by the wife and daughter of Samuel Holden, M.F.,
who was a liberal benefactor of the College. Massachusetts Hall is the oldest build-
ing in the University, having been erected by the Province in 1720. It was occupied
by the American Army during the Revolutionary War and was used for students'
rooms imtil 1870, when it was remodelled within and lectures and examinations
began to be held there.

The College, founded in 1636, was the only one in the country up to the year
1693, when William and Mary in Virginia was started. Two years after the found-
ing of the College, the name of Newtown was changed to Cambridge, owing to the
fact that the town had been selected as the site of the new seat of learning, and
also for the reason that most of the ministers and leading men of our colony had
been educated at old Cambridge in England. That the erection of the new college
was not delayed for many years through lack, of adequate funds, was due in no
small measure to the generous gift of " that gentle and godly youth " John Harvard,
a yoimg minister of Charlestown, who at his death in 1638 left to the College his
entire library and one half of his estate, which, it has been estimated, was worth
about ^xteen himdred pounds. Out of gratitude for this splendid gift, as every

CAMBRIDGE, MASSACHUSETTS

HARVARD MEMORIAL
CHAPEL AND WINDOW IN
ST. SAVIOUR'S CHURCH,
SOUTHWARK, LONDON

The window was the gift of Hon.
Joseph H. Choate. The arms of
Harvard Umvereity can be seen
on the left and those of Em-
manuel College on the right. The
chapel, restored by Harvard men,
was dedicated in igo;, to com-
memorate the three hundredth
anniversary of the baptism of
John Harvard in this church.
The altar and its ornaments were
also presented by Harvard gradu-

HATiVARD MEMORIAL WIN-
DOW IN THE CHAPEL OF
EMMANUEL COLLEGE, CAM-
BRIDGE, ENGLAND,

given by Han-ard graduates on
the occasion of the tercentenary
celebration of Emmanuel College,
Cambridge, Englmd. Prof.
Charles Eliot Norton represented
Harvard University, and Hon.
James Russell Lowell, Minister
to the Court of St. James, repre-
sented America.

HARVARD HOUSE, THE
EARLY HOME OF JOHN
HARVARD'S MOTHER, IN
STR.\TFORD - ON - AVON,
ENGLAND,

now owned by Harvard Uni-
versity. The house is sup-
posed to have been built m
1596 by Thomas Rogers, and
here in the year 1605, Robert
Harveye, as the name was
then spelled, was married to
KatheriDe, daughter of
Thomas Rogers. Tbty were
the parents of John Harvard.

one knows, the new college was named after him. John Harvard was one of those
"Great-hearts of his generation, whom England begot, Cambridge bred, and Em-
manuel in special nurtured." He was the son of Robert Harvard and his second
wife, formerly Katherine Rogers of Stratford-on-Avon, who was bom in a small
house there which now belongs to Harvard College, and is known as Harvard
House, shown in the cut above. His childhood was sp>ent in Southwark, London,
where in the baptismal records of St. Saviour's Church is foimd the following
entry : —

" 1607 November ig John Harvye S. of Robt. a Butcher."

In 1627, young Harvard entered Emmanuel College, Cambridge, that institution
of which its founder, Sir Walter Mildmay, said, in reply to Queen Elizabeth when
she accused him of having erected a Puritan foundation, "No, Madam, far be it
from me to countenance anything contrary to your established laws, but I have

CAMBRIDGE, MASSACHUSETTS

set an acom, which when it becomes an
oak, God alone knows what will be the
fruit thereof. ' ' Although

"In vain the delving antiquary tries
To find the tomb where generous
Harvard lies,"

nevertheless in 1828, at the suggestion
of Hon. Edward Everett, the alumni of
our University erected a granite shaft
in the Phipps Street Burial Ground,
Charlestown, at the dedication of which
Mr, Everett paid him a splendid tribute
in his dedicatory address. A tablet in
the Harvard Church of Charlestown, -
formerly called the First Church, is
placed there to the memory of Harvard
and other early ministers of the church.
Some years later, in 1836, at the ban-
quet held at Harvard to celebrate the
two hundredth armiversary of its

GRANITE SHAFT TO THE MEMORY OF
JOHN HARVARD,

moriai w&s placed there in 181S at the suggestioD of
Hon. Edward Everett. On the monument are these
words: "On the 26th day of September, A.D. 1818,
this stone was erected by the Graduates of the Uni-
versity at Cambridge, in honor of its Fouoder,
who died at Cliarlestown, on the i6tb day of Sep-
tember, A.D, 1638."

founding, the entire company rose to do
honour to the following toast :—

"The sacred memory of John Harvard, who
set the first example, on the American con-
tinent, of a union between private muni-
ficence and public education, which has
botmd successive generations, as with links
of steel, together, and has given to an
unknown stranger a deathless name."

Another event of interest connecting Harvard

Fw. . tick.., I. a^iCMn* Liua,,. Htnui CoUege With her founder occurred in 1884 at

XMmHWiiiiaMC.iMi,Btt. the tercentenary celebration of Emmanuel Col-

CUP GIVEN TO EMMANTJEL COI^ Icg^, Cambridge, at which time a window to his

LEGE, CAMBRIDGE, ENGLAND, memory was placed in the college chapel, the gift

*^i^^l^.'°*^A^'*^S*' *?*??" oi Harvard men. There were present at this

tuMl ol that loyalty to the College <d their . ^ , ™ . ^i. »,

founder. anmversary Prof. Charles Eliot Norton ot Har-

CAMBRIDGE, MASSACHtJSETTS

in M trinl ■'■ Bmard Cdleti Lltrary, Barwd Vnittnily Kimimas WiUiam C. Lam. Bit., and Wallt B. Britli, Elf.

CHURCH AND PRIORY OF STE. MARIE OVERIE (NOW ST. SAVIOUR'S),

SOUTHWABK, LONDON,

showing London Bridge. In this church John Harvard was baptized in 1607, and here bis fathei wu

buried in 1615. Harvard Chapel, given by Harvard graduates, ism thiscbuich. Here is also a monument

to William Emerson, an ancestor of Ralph Waldo Emerson.

vard University, sent over by Harvard especially for thb occasion, and Hon. James
Russell Lowell, who was at that time American Minister at the Court of St.
James. That same year there was erected on the Delta in the grounds of Harvard
University the well-known memorial statue of John Harvard presented by Samuel
J. Bridge, an alumnus of the University. Two years later, in 1886, at the cele-
bration of the two hundred and fiftieth anniversary of the founding of the College,
the college which John Harvard attended was represented by Bishop Mandell
Creighton, who gave a splendid tribute to the founder of America's great seat of
learning, a man who was, he said, "at once a scholar, a statesman, a philanthropist,
a man whom Emmanuel may be proud to have trained, and Harvard may be proud
to recognize as her founder." Another gift that especially links the old university
town with the new, is a memorial brass inscription which was placed under the
Harvard window in Emmanuel College on August 25, 1904, the gift of Harvard

CAMBRIDGE, MASSACHUSETTS 79

alumni, and made to perpetuate their gratitude "to their founder in the college
which fostered his beneficent spirit." The most important memorial, however, is
the Harvard Chapel in St. Saviour's Church, Southwark, London, dedicated July
17, 1907, where John Harvard was baptized in 1607 and where his father was buried
in 1625, the idea having been carried out by Harvard men while Hon. Joseph H.
Choate was our Ambassador to England. In this chapel is also a beautiful stained-
glass window, the gift of Mr. Choate. This chapel received in 1909 the gift of
an altar from Ralph W. Hickox, '72, which was dedicated by the Bishop of South-
wark, and also altar ornaments presented by Amory A. Lawrence, '70, of Boston,
and Frands Appleton, '75, of New York.

An event of great interest to Cantabrigians on both sides of the ocean was the gift
of a cup during the winter of 19 18 to Emmanuel College by Harvard men in England
as a testimonial of their loyalty to the college of their founder. There is yet an-
other connecting link between our Cambridge and John Harvard's early days in
the form of a stone set in the wall of Appleton Chapel, in Harvard College Yard,
which came in 1908 from the archway of this same old church in London, which
Harvard attended. Underneath the stone are the words

A stone from St. Saviour's Church, Southwark, in which John Harvard
was baptised, Nov. 29, 1607.

Mrs. F. P. Kinnicutt of New York was instrumental in procuring this stone.

It may be well also to mention the recently founded Choate fellowship, which
enables graduates of the English university to study at Harvard. It woidd be fitting
if some one shoidd found a similar fellowship in honour of John Harvard's descendant,
Lionel de Jersey Harvard, who graduated here in 1915, and then straightway en-
tered the English Army and gave his life fighting for the freedom of the world.
There are several pieces of a communion service in Christ Church in our Cambridge
bearing the arms of King William and Queen Mary which were part of a set given
to King's Chapel, Boston, in 1694, by these sovereigns. It was used there up to
the year 1772, when it was divided, Christ Church receiving three pieces.

Our town of Cambridge, now a dty, was foimded in 1630 by Governor Winthrop
and a party of men from Boston, who rowed up the Charles River in search of a
suitable place to build a fortified town where the government oflicials might live
in safety. They landed near the present Harvard Square, and decided that this
situation was admirably suited for their purposes. The land was then purchased
from the Mystic Indians for the sum of about fifty dollars and the promise of an
annual present of a coat to the squaw sachem as long as she lived. The colony
called "Newetowne" was soon established. Although only three miles inland, at
that time it was a frontier settlement, and evidence of this fact still exists in the
dumps of willows standing on college land and adjacent parts of Cambridge, which
have sprouted from the old stockade used for defence against the Indians. New

CAMBRIDGE, MASSACHUSETTS

CUrlu E. Goodifud. fnm uiiiml

HARVARD COLLEGE, 1726.

lands were added to the settlement about the year 1648, which included our present
Brighton, Newton, Arlington, Lexington, Bedford, Carlisle, Chelmsford, Billerica
and part of Tewksbury, the last iive towns being withdrawn soon after from the
Cambridge territory. In 1688, Newton, known originally as "Cambridge Village,"
was formed into a separate township; Lexington, which had been known previously
as "Cambridge Farms," was separated in 1713, and in 1807 Arlington and Brighton
were made separate townships.

In the Cambridge market place in 1636, Rev. Thomas Hooker with a himdred
men and women of his congregation assembled, with their possessions, including a
hundred and sixty head of cattle, and after a prayer by the minister, they adjusted
their burdens on their shoulders, and to the beating of the drum which used to

CAMBRIDGE, MASSACHUSETTS 8i

sximmon them to church, they slowly made their way along the Watertown road
on their march to Hartford, Connecticut, driving their cattle before them. This
exodus, so history tells us, was occasioned by the fact that this Puritan minister did
not approve of the religious test for voting. A picture of these wanderers is shown
on page 152. Before leaving our Cambridge for Cambridge across the water it
seems fitting to repeat the amusing lines written by Oliver Wendell Holmes de-
scribing the New England city:—

" Know old Cambridge? Hope you do.
Born there? Don't say so! I was, too.
Nicest place that ever was seen, —
Colleges red, and common green,
Sidewalks brownish with trees between, —
Sweetest spot beneath the skies
When the canker-worms don't rise,
When the dust, that sometimes flies
Into your mouth and ears and eyes.
In a quiet slumber lies.
Not in the shape of unbaked pies.
Such as barefoot children prize."

It may be well to mention that the press of Harvard College was the first print-
ing press in this coimtry and for forty years was the only one in the British Colonies.
It was originally owned by Rev. J. Glover, an Englishman, who embarked for
this country in 1638, and who died on the way over; but Stephen Daye, who ac-
companied hhn as printer, brought the press safely to Cambridge, where it was
superintended by President Dunster of Harvard College and later was set up in
the President's house. The present University Press, which traces its origin to the
old College press, is imder the management of Herbert H. White, Esq.

Old Cambridge on the river Cam, from which it is called, has endured a multi-
plicity of names: in 875 a.d. it was called Grantanbrycge; in 1142 Cantebruggescir;
in the fourteenth century Cantbrigge; in 1436 Canbrigge, later on being changed to
Cawnbrege, Cambrigge and Caumbrege, until we come to the present name of
Cambridge. The old university must have had a modest beginning, for we are
told that it may ascribe its origin to a traveling teacher who once lectured there
at the fair and, having attracted a large audience, returned the following year; or
it may have originated from the monasteries of the Fenland which by degrees
developed until a corps of masters was secured. We are certain, however, that it
was a place for student monks at such an early period that there is no precise date
known. It has also been ascertained beyond doubt that the University dates back at
least to 1229, the time of Henry III. The college that is of greatest interest to New
Englanders is, of course, Emmanuel, to which also went Samuel Whiting, Nathaniel
Ward, Thomas Hooker, Nathaniel Rogers, Thomas Shepard, John Cotton and
Samuel Stone. It also may be interesting to New Englanders to remember that

82 CAMBRIDGE, MASSACHUSETTS

John Eliot attended Jesus College, also that John Winthrop went to Trinity, also
Charles Chauncey, the second president of the College, and Hugh Peters, as well as
Bacon, Dryden, Newton, Byron, Macaulay and Tennyson. About seventy of the
early settlers of New England may, in fact, be traced to Cambridge University,
England.

In 1896, Mayor William A. Bancroft of Cambridge, Massachusetts, sent a letter
of greeting and a history of his city to the Mayor of Cambridge, England, Mr.
William C. Hall. The letter and history were presented by Alderman Charles P.
Keith of Cambridge, Massachusetts, and a very cordial letter of thanks was later
received by Mayor Bancroft from the Mayor of the mother town.

In closing this article on Cambridge, we can do no better than to quote the last
two lines of verses written by Rev. John Wilson, which first appeared in Mather's
*^Magnalia'* in 1702: —

"And as old Cambridge well deserved the name.
May the new Cambridge win as pure a fame."

CHATHAM, MASSACHUSETTS

IT is the common belief that the early settlers of Chatham in New England
named the town for Chatham in England in the belief that the Massachusetts
town, on account of its commanding position at the heel of Cape Cod, woidd
sometime become a government naval station similar to its English counterpart
on the Medway with its wonderful dock yard. It is a curious fact that this pre-
diction should in a way have been realized in 191 7 when the United States Govern-
ment established a flying school in the town, which is still continued. It may be in-
teresting also to recall the fact that it was off these waters of our Chatham that
several of our flyers had a battle with a German submarine. Another possible
reason for the name was that many of the Cape Cod towns were named for English,
ones.

The person who was chiefly responsible for the changing of the name from the
Indian Monomoit to its present one was Rev. Hugh Adams, who went there as a
minister in 171 1 from our Boston, and who was able in the following year to in-
corporate the settlement. Mr. Adams remained there some years, finally getting
into a long and bitter fight with a tavern keeper named Ebenezer Hawes, because
he claimed the latter placed his tavern too near the parsonage. This old settle*
ment of Monomoit was originally owned by William Nickerson, of Norwich, Eng-
land, who, unauthorized by the Plymouth Colony, bought it from the Indians and
settled there as early as 1656. The Plymouth Court allowed him to keep part of
his territory and he then established his dwelling near Ryder's Cove. Nickerson
had followed the trade of a weaver before coming to New England in 1637 on a vessel

CHATHAM, KfASSACHUSKITS

A PROSPECT OF HIS MAJESTY'S ROYAL NAVY,
lying at the several moorings at Chatham.

on which Samuel Lincoln, an ancestor of President Lincoln, was also a passenger.
It is said today that about nine-tenths of the famiUes in Chatham trace their an-
cestry back to this William Nickerson, and most of the other one-tenth can follow
their lineage back to either the Eldredge or Taylor families, so frequently found in
the town's history. Nickerson was in continual difficulties with the Plymouth
Court as to his possessions, and in 1665 it was ordered that the plantation should
•come within the Umits of the township of Yarmouth, a few years later being
transferred to Eastham. The growth of the new settlement at first was slow, but
after 1674 Nickerson sold part of his lands to some of his friends, the records show-
ing that those who came soon after him were John Downing, Thomas Crow (or
Crowell as he was sometimes called) and Edward Cottle of Salisbury, England,
who had first hved in Salisbury and then in Amesbury, Mass. Another early
purchaser of lands here was Captain James Forster of London, who purchased Morris
Island, then known as Quitnesset, and who in his will, dated 1686, gave it to his
sister "Elizabeth Torlton Lately Living in Jacobs Street in Southwoike near
London." This property later came into the possession of Morris Farris for whom
it was then named.

CHATHAM, MASSACHUSETTS

8S

A person of the greatest importance in the early history of Chatham was the
Indian Tisquantum, sometimes called "Squanto," who had traded along the shores
of Cape Cod near Chatham. He was so fond of Englishmen that on his deathbed
he beseeched Governor Bradford to pray that he might go to the "Englishman's
God in Heaven" and at the same time he bequeathed much of his property to his
English friends ds a token of his love for them. Charles Francis Adams claims
that for a certain time he was " the most essential factor in the prolonged existence
of the Plymouth Colony," as he helped them to grow maize or Indian com, assisted
them to fish, and acted also as interpreter and pilot for them. It was through Tis-
quantum that trading relations were established between the Pilgrims and the
Indians at Monomoit, and over his grave was cemented between the Colonists and
their Indian neighbors a bond of friendship which was never broken. He died
while accompanying the Governor on one of his expeditions and was buried probably
within the present boundary of Chatham. His loyalty to the English is especially
remarkable in view of the early treatment he had received, for he was one of the
group of redskins who had been captured by Capt. Thomas Hunt in 1614 and sold

(SITE or TBI 010
*ooFKrMoiiTN£ ;
_oee.«. If—

*fi«iT Nine MILES SE frohY

|™SPUCEARETHESIMU|

PlriofnifM »^ C. a. SmaUkiff

"MAYFLOWER

INSCRIPTION IN FRONT OF THE OLD TWIN LIGHTS, CHATHAM,
MASSACHUSETTS,
ma riling the [KHDt on the coast at which she turned back ti

CHATHAM, MASSACHUSETTS

MfllHf

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HHs^

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1

Fknlotrilflitd by C. II. SmaHhit

BOULDER AND TABLP:T MARKING THE PROBABLE CRAVE OF WILLIAM NICKERSON IN

CHATHAM, MASSACHUSETTS

He was the owner of, and the earliest settler in, Chatham, then called Monomoit. He was bora in Norwich,

Norfolk County, England. The tablet reads in part as (ollows: —

\VrLLL\M NICKKRSON

JLAND 1604— UASSACIIV SETTS 16SQ-9O
1637 — FREEUAN l6j8 — VARyollTH l64<

BUHIAL PLACE Of

IWN OF CHATHAM AJ>. I915.

i JOSATHAN 7 JONATHAN 6

into slavery. The Indian, however, won the friendship of his captors, learned
their language, and rendered them very valuable service, finally succeeding ia
reaching England and later Newfoundland, where he was found by Capt. Thomas
Dermer, an Englishman employed by Sir Ferdinando Gorges, who took him on
many of his voyages to the Cape.

CHATHAM, MASSACHUSETTS 87

It is interesting to recall that the treacherous sand bars which extend for miles
off the Chatham shore forced the "Mayflower" to abandon her southern course
around Cape Cod to the Hudson River or the Jersey shore, where the Pilgrims had
a grant of land, and caused her navigator to turn back to Provincetown. A tablet
on the shore records this event. Governor Bradford in describing their experiences
said: "While attempting to finde some place aboute Hudson's River for their
habitation, but after they had sailed yt course about halfe ye day, they fell amongst
deangerous shoulds and roring breakers, and they were so farr intangled therwith,
as they conceived themselves in great danger; and ye wind shrinking upon them
withall, they resolved to bear up againe for the Cape, and thought themselves
hapy to gett out of those dangers before night overtooke them, as by God's prov-
idence they did. And ye next day they gott into ye Cape-harbor.'* Thus it
was that New England, instead of New York or New Jersey, became the home of
the Pilgrims. It is believed that fourteen years before the arrival of the "May-
flower" a French colony set foot on the Cape, led by Jean de Poutrincourt and
Samuel de Champlain.

The Cape Cod town has continually been called upon to assist shipwrecked
mariners, and as early as 171 1 it was stated that the village "has often heretofore
been a place of relief to many shipwrecked vessels and Englishmen cast ashore in
storms."

The English Chatham, now united with Rochester, is known to us on account
of its important dockyard with its battleships and its armies of workmen; there
Peter the Great gained part of his education as a workman, and there also within
the dockyard is a figurehead of Lord Nelson, taken from one of the old wooden ships.
Charles Dickens lived in the town for many years. Chatham is situated in
County Kent on the south side of the Medway and about twenty-seven miles east
of London.

There is also a Chatham in New Hampshire and in Connecticut.

CHELMSFORD, MASSACHUSETTS

ON the walls of the Adams Library in Chelmsford, Massachusetts, there
are several framed photographs of Chelmsford, England, for which town
ours was named, and also a portrait of Lord Chelmsford, once Lord High
Chancellor of Great Britain. In the year 1905, on the two hundred and fiftieth
anniversary of the incorporation of the town, an invitation was sent to the Mayor of
the English town, to which the following reply was received: —

''Maynetsees, Chelmsford,
26 April, 1905.

Dear Sir: —

I have been hoping that I shoidd be able to accept your very kind invitation to the
celebration of the Quarter Millennial Anniversary of the Incorporation of your Town.

CHELMSFORD, MASSACHUSETTS 89

Alas! the distance and time form an impassable barrier. . . . Allow me to wish the
celebration every success. We shall think of you, and offer heartiest greetings in the
four appointed days. I wiD send over to you, as you request, one or more specimens of
our native trees. With repeated thanks and assurance of the peciiliar interest which we
take in your prosperity,

Very truly yours,

Walter Payne Gepp, Mayor.

Walter Perham, Esq., Chairman of Selectmen,
Chelmsford, Massachusetts."

Another letter was sent from the English Rector to the American Rector, which
reads as follows: —

"Chelmsford, May 15.
Dear Mr, Waters: —

May I write to thank you for your very kind letter. I, indeed, wish that it were
possible for some one from the old home to be with you at your commemoration; but I
fear that it is not possible. Perhaps the old blood is not so enterprising as the new, but
it is very difficult to leave the work here for so long a time as a visit to Massachusetts
implies. May I, as Rector of Chelmsford in the old Country, offer all who are taking part
in your Commemoration, the very best wishes. We shall think of you and trust that, as
such a Commemoration must be a link between all, so it may be a help on to further prog-
ress, social, moral, religious. I shall like very much to see a paper of your arrangements
as it will enable me to put a short account in our Magazine, which will help to bring it
to the notice of our people generally. I am sending one or two specimen photos in this
envelope. This will, I hope, give a slight idea of the old town.

Yours sincerely,

H. A. Lake, Rector of Chdmsfordy England,
Honorary Canon of St. Albans.''

Cables were also received on the day of the celebration. During the four days of
the festivities there were shown several copies of old engravings of scenes from
Chelmsford, England, which were sent by Mr. Fred Spalding to Mr. Walter Per-
ham, the Chairman of Selectmen of the New England town, who, by the way,
visited the mother town in Essex in 1902. While there he made an examination
of the records of St. Mary's Parish and discovered that there were in the old English
town, between the years 1538 and the time of the settlement of our town, a number
of people of the same name as in our town, or its offshoots, the most prominent
names being Adams, Butterfield, Spaldyng, Chamberlyne, Fletcher, Parker, Warren
and Purkis. Edwin H. Warren, Esq., formerly Town Treasurer of our Chelms-
ford, also visited the town of the same name in England some time in the 70's, and
likewise Mr. Shurtleff , the Unitarian minister, made a similar visit only a few years
ago. The Rev. Wilson Waters of our Chelmsford, who gave us this information,
also mentions that E. Percy Boulter, a resident of the town, and gunner in the
Canadian Heavy Artillery, made several visits there during the Great War, and
met the officials of the town. Mr. Waters also speaks of having sent to Canon
Lake several books relating to our town, receiving from him in return a number of

90

CHELMSFORD,

MASSACHUSETTS

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ALL SAINTS CHURCH, CHELMSFORD, MASSACHUSETTS

1 Chelmsford, England, and other relics from

photographs and other objects of interest that are now in the Sacristy of All Saints
Church.

During the two hundred and fiftieth anniversary one of the speakers claimed
that he had a right to be present, as he had an ancestor named Chamberlain who
was bom in Chelmsford but who moved to Sillerica, which was abo named after
the EngUsh town of Billericay. "He is sorry for it now," said the speaker, "but
he partly made up for it by going to Concord."

A few families settled in our Chelmsford as early as 1650, but the first recorded
movement occurred two years later, when a number of people went there from
Wobum and Concord. The town was actually settled in 1653. The original
grant included what is now the large city of Lowell, Our Chelmsford was named 1
for Chelmsford, England, as the latter town had been the home of some of these S
early settlers. The President of the United States, John Adams, while in England
in the year 1786, further confirms this by mentioning in his diary that "Chelms-
ford was probably named in compliment to Mr. Hooker, who was once minister

CHELMSFORD, MASSACHUSETTS 91

of that town in Essex." It will be remembered that Rev. Thomas Hooker had
been curate of St. Mary's Church in Chelmsford, England.

The Rev. John Eliot, apostle to the Indians, who did much for the Indians
living on the Chelmsford grant, at one time taught school near the English Chelms-
ford.

The first family that came to settle on the new tract, according to tradition,
was that of Abraham Parker, a prominent name in the history of our Chelmsford
even up to the present time.

The town was not incorporated, however, until 1655, at which time Groton
and Billerica were also recognized as distinct towns. During the early years of
the colony Rev. John Fiske, who was once a school teacher in Chelmsford, England,
was induced to leave Wenham with several families and to take up his residence
at Chelmsford, thereby greatly assisting the progress of the settlement. Cotton
Mather, in his "Magnalia," says of him, "Twenty years did he shine in the golden
candlestick of Chelmsford." The Chelmsford meeting house was erected in 1659
or 1660 upon or near the site of the present Unitarian Church. Chelmsford fur-
nished the granite for the first stone block ever erected in the city of Boston and for
a number of its finest buildings.

Chelmsford was an important frontier town during the Indian wars, and many
of her soldiers fought at Concord and Bunker Hill. Five himdred and forty-four
of her men out of a population of thirteen himdred and forty-one served in the War
of the Revolution.

A merchant of Boston in "The Present State of New England," printed in
London in 1675, relates an amusing incident which took place near Chelmsford: —

"About the 15th of August, Captain Mosely with sixty men met a company,
judged about three hundred Indians, in a plain place where few Trees were, and on
both sides preparations were making for a Battle; all being ready on both sides to
fight, Captain Mosely plucked oflf his Periwig, and put it into his Breeches, because
it shoidd not hinder him in fighting. As soon as the Indians saw that, they fell
a Howling and Yelling most hideously, and said, * C/mA, Umh, me no staw merre
[stay here?] fight Engis mofty Engis man got two hed, Engis mon got two hed; if me cut
off un hedy he got nodefy a put on beder as dis '; with such like words in broken English
and away they all fled and could not be overtaken, nor seen any more afterwards."

The English Chelmsford is the shire town of Essex, is twenty-nine miles from
London, and is celebrated for its com and cattle markets. Before bridges were
built, there was a ford across the river Chelmer at this place, and hence the name
Chelmer's Ford. The name appears in ancient records as " Chelmersforde," " Chel-
mereford," and "Chelmesford." Its church, which dates from the year 1427, is one
of the chief objects of interest in the town, and has been made the cathedral of the
diocese of Chelmsford. A Roman villa was imearthed there in the middle of the
nineteenth centiuy.

u Libray. Cttlm^ari. UuiuJiuelU Kimdmas Sa. WilHm WiUn

CHELMSFORD, ENGLAND. AND THE RIVER CHELMER

The recordi in this church ihow that there were at the time of the settlement of our Chelmsford, many
Dunes the lune la tbose in the early days of the Massachusetts town. Rev. Thomas Hooker, in wboae
honour Cbeli&sfoid, MasBMhusctts, was protNibly named, was once curate of this English chuidi.

CHELMSFORD, MASSACHUSETTS 93

All Saints Church, Chehnsford, Massachusetts, contains a number of objects
of interest to us. Within its walls are some curious panels and other ancient carv-
ings from the church in South Hadleigh, England, which are kept in the Rector's
study; there are also some carvings on either side of the central arch of the rood-
screen, which came from Chester Cathedral; also in the sacristy hang some framed
photographs of St. Mary's Parish Church, Chelmsford, England, which were pre-
sented by the Rector and Wardens of the English church.

DARTMOUTH, NEW BEDFORD AND BEDFORD,

MASSACHUSETTS

"Not any lovelier spot, I ween,
Had England's noble captain seen,
Since, by the Virgin Queen's command,
From Dartmouth's old historic strand.
The widespread ocean field to plough.
He guided forth the * Concord's' prow.
Upon his venturous quest I"

(Part of a verse written by James B. Congdon on the two hundred and fiftieth anniversary of the
founding of Dartmouth. The lines refer to Bartholomew Gosnold's expedition.)

THE part of Dartmouth, Massachusetts, now occupied by the city of New
Bedford was owned by the Russells, which was the family name of the Duke
of Bedford, whose English home, called Wobum Abbey, is in Bedfordshire.
The first mention of the name Bedford in any of the Dartmouth records was in
1773 when the following entry occurs: —

''It was voted to raise by way of tax the sum of Eighty-seven pounds eight shillings
and four pence Lawful money to defray the charges accrued to said town by Building the
New Workhouse in Bedford in Dartmouth."

The story of the naming of New Bedford is a most interesting one. Ralph
Russell, who came from England, was one of the earliest settlers in the town, being
engaged in the iron business. He was a progenitor of the Russell families of New
Bedford and was the ancestor of Joseph Russell from whom New Bedford really
received its name. In 1765 Joseph Rotch, father of William Rotch, moved from
Nantucket to Dartmouth to pursue the whale fishery and here he met this Joseph
Russell. These two men met again on some public occasion in 1787, and in talk-
ing about a possible name for the town, Rotch suggested that the place should
be called Bedford in honour of a distinguished member of the Russell family, the
Duke of Bedford. This suggestion was promptly adopted by the rest of the in-
habitants and from that time on Russell was always referred to as **the Duke."
It was discovered, however, that there was another Bedford in the state, so that

Ftm a paiHI-ng by WiUiam .4. Wall

"NEW BEDFORD FIFTY YEARS AGO" I
The last building shown on the left of the picture was the manson of William Rotch, Sr., who is lepre-
sented in the chaise, the only private carriage then in the village. He was the son of Joseph Rotch who
was one of the founders of the whaling industry which has made the city known throughout the world.
The large man in the center of the street, called Water Street, is William Rotch, Jr., the leading merchant
of the jilace, and the man in conversation with him is supposed to be Abraham Russell, grandson of the
Joseph Russell, who, with Joseph Rotch, gave the town its name. The two men shaking hands are CaptAJn
R. R. Crocker and Samuel Rodman, St. One of the boys harnessed to the small cart is George Howland. Jr.

Pholatrath of an old fial Kimlnai Ian Piriu-StUHjim, Est.

EAST VIEW OF BEDFORD BRIDGE TAKEN IN THE YEAR 1790
It crosses the river Ouse, which runs through the center of the town. Tradition says that it was erected
with part of the materials of the Castle demolished by King Henry HI In the year 1 114. Bedford Castle
stood on the right of the bridge.

DARTMOUTH, NEW BEDFORD and BEDFORD 95

the prefix "New" was added, and the town was, therefore, called New Bedford.
Joseph Russell, who was bom in the old township of Dartmouth, was, therefore,
the real founder of New Bedford, and he was also the originator of the whale fishery
there. Francis Rotch has the honour of having launched the first vessel in the
town, which he named the "Dartmouth.*' Joseph Rotch, the first of the Rotch
family who went to Nantucket, later moving to New Bedford, was bom in Salisbury,
England, in 1704. The Indian name of New Bedford was Acushnet, the settle-
ment having been bought from the Indians in 1652.

In the early days there was a minister in the town who was very absent-
DMnded, and once after the services in the church had started, he remembered that
he had forgotten his sermon. Therefore, he gave out a long hymn to be sung by
the congregation, and in the meantime he ran home and got his sermon, appearing
in the pulpit at the right time.

There have been individual visits of interested citizens to the town of old Bed-
ford, England, but the official interchanges of congratulations occurred between
Dartmouth, Massachusetts, and Dartmouth, England, on the occasion of the two
himdredth anniversary of the incorporation of our Dartmouth. A very elaborate
programme was carried out, and was participated in by the various towns which
were formerly parts of our Dartmouth, namely. New Bedford, Dartmouth, Acush-
net, Fairhaven and Westport. George Rowland, Jr., was Mayor of New Bed-
ford at the time of this celebration, which took place on September 14, 1864, and
the notice sent out by him was in part as follows: —

"Centennial Celebration.

To the Sons & Daughters of Old Dartmouth abroad, the undersigned on behalf of
the children at home, send Greeting.

Two Hundred Years Ago

'The tracte of land called and known by the name of Acushnet, Ponagansett & Coaksett
was allowed by the Court to bee a townshippe: — to bee henceforth called and knowne by
the name of Dartmouth.' The villages which then formed the town of Dartmouth now
constitute the towns of Dartmouth, Westport, Fairhaven and Acushnet and the City of
New Bedford."

The conunittee appointed to handle the celebration was composed of the following:
H. J. Taylor, A. G. Pierce, Lemuel M. Kollock, Cornelius Davenport, John W.
Macomber, Wm. C. Taber, Jr., and Charles H. Gifford. It was voted that an
address be sent to the Mayor, Recorder, and Aldermen of the city of Dartmouth,
county of Devon, England, and a very beautiful engrossed return message was
received by the city of New Bedford, the original of which hangs in the Free Public
Library.

Many of the original thirty-six proprietors settled in New Bedford two hundred
years before, and among them were the families of Rowland, Morton, Kempton,

REPLY FROM DARTMOUTH, ENGLAND,

DARTMOUTH, NEW BEDFORD and BEDFORD 97

Dunham, Shaw, Cooke, Soule, Faunce, Sampson, Delano, Bartlett, Palmer, Doty,
Hicks, Brown and Bimipass. Among other early settlers are found the names of
Howland, Hathaway and Slocomb, and in Fairhaven were the families of Pope,
Taber, Delano, Jenny, Spooner, Tripp, Sherman and Aaron Davis.

The town was called Dartmouth probably on account of the fact that the " May-
flower" and the "Speedwell" both put back to Dartmouth, and also because some
of the earliest settlers of our Dartmouth probably came from the English town of
the same name. It is also a fact that Gosnold procured his vessel the *Xoncord"
in Dartmouth, England.

A few years later, on July 4, 1876, a centennial was held in New Bedford to
celebrate the anniversary of the naming of the town, which, as the old deed says,
was bought from the Indians for *' thirty yards of cloth, 8 moose-skins, 15 axes,
15 hoes, 15 pair breeches, 8 blankets, 2 kettles, i clock, 2 pounds in wampum, 8
pair of stockings, 8 pair shoes, i tin pot and 10 shillings in other comoditie." It
may be interesting to record that St. Martinis Church, New Bedford, has on the
wall of its chancel, with a proper inscription, an old Roman stone that was seen
by Miss Julia Rodman of New Bedford in the church of the same name in
Canterbury, England, and which was sent over to New Bedford by the authorities
of the English church. The font is a reproduction of the one in the English
church.

As Bartholomew Gosnold was about to sail from Falmouth, England, in March,
1602, his parting words to Raleigh were: —

"My lord, I will hoiste saile, and all the wind my bark can beare shall hasten me to
find a great New World."

Although he did not settle in New Bedford his name is thoroughly linked with the
town owing to the fact that he sailed into Buzzards Bay and made a settlement on
Gosnold's Island, which is part of the Elizabeth Islands. He named Buzzards
Bay "Gosnold's Hope," which name was changed later to "Buzzards Bay" by the
early settlers at Dartmouth on account of the abimdance of fish hawks, which in
olden times were called "buzzards." The whole group of islands today is called
"Elizabeth Islands," but at the time of his discovery the island of "Cuttyhunk"
was called by him "Elizabeth" for the Queen. He also named Gay Head "Dover
Cliff." He remained here only a short time, returning to Exmouth, Devonshire,
England, but his short stay entitled him to the honour of being called the first
Englishman to set foot on New England soil and also the first Englishman to es-
tablish a settlement in the New England states. In 1902 there was held a ter-
centenary of his landing at Gosnold on the island of Cuttyhunk, and the comer stone
of a monument was laid which was dedicated in September of the next year, which
is not only a memorial to him, but to all the other explorers who were inspired
by him. The shaft of this memorial stands on the exact spot where Gosnold's

PktbvtflHifnm m sU ^1^

Bf F. FHUi »■ Cr.. Ba^titt

DARTMOUTH, NEW BEDFORD and BEDFORD

placed at Gosnold, a

GOSNOLD MEMORIAL,

Kindm,, Corn B. Tripp. E14.

Fnm a painlbii ty Wmiam A . WaU io Mi Old DarHmmlli SiiUrical Stcitly Kindtuis Garft H. Tripp. eBi..i,ni Fraiik Wool. Sir.

LANDING OF BARTHOLOMEW GOSNOLD,

the fint FngljAmati to establish a settlement in New England. He landed at Gosnold, on the isUnd

of Cuttyhunk, off the coast near New Bedford.

storehouse and fort stood and the comer stone was taken from the original wall of
the fort laid out by the explorers three hundred years ago. The memorial reads :^ —

Tercentenary Memorial

to

Bartholomew Gosnold

and his companions who landed here

June 4 (O. S. May 25) i6oz

and built on this Islet the First

English habitation on the Coast of

N, E. Comer stone laid June 4,

1903. Dedicated Sept. i, 1903 on

the anniversary of Gosnold's death at

Jamestown, Virginia.

The whole island on which this memorial is situated was given to the Dartmouth
Historical Society by Messrs. Perry, Nye and Swift, who purchased it on account
of their interest in the event. People of Cuttyhunk jokingly used to say that so
few people died there that they had to kill a man in order to start a cemetery. At

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DARTMOUTH, ENGLAND. AND THE HARBOUR,

FttM an M fritU hn K. AtlurmuH, iSii Kimdmui Ian Ftrh—IMwUtii. Bit-

DARTMOUTH, ENGLAND, SHOWING DARTMOUTH CASTLE,

and the Church of St Petioc u it looked when the Pilgrims Huled by on their voyage to the New World.

The chuich ii coniidecably dianged today.

DARTMOUTH, NEW BEDFORD and BEDFORD loi

one time pilots were taken on at Cuttyhunk for New Bedford, and there was such
rivalry among them that they would watch the incoming vessels from the tops of
the houses with spyglasses.

It may be interesting to go across the water and say a few words about Dart-
mouth and Bedford in England. To the New Englander, Dartmouth in the beau-
tiful county of Devonshire is second only in interest to Plymouth. To this haven
the ** Mayflower" and "Speedwell," as every one knows, put in to overhaul the
reported defects of the latter vessel, after the two ships had been at sea only about
eight days. As it took a week to make the necessary repairs, the Pilgrims had an
opportunity to familiarize themselves with the town, and we can imagine them
roaming about the quaint streets of Dartmouth and climbing some of the steep
hills of the city. The picture on page loo is taken from one of the most precipitous
of these hills and shows the parish church of St. Saviour in the distance, which dates
from 1372. The other picture shows Dartmouth Castle and the church of St.
Petroc as they looked when the adventurers sailed down the river Dart. In this
picture is also seen the quaint steeple of the church tower which no longer exists.
The castle in its present condition dates from Henry VII, but other castles both
Saxon and Norman have previously stood on its site. The church was built in
the fourteenth century. Dartmouth has had a prominent place in the naval history
of England, and several colonial expeditions to the Western Hemisphere have set
out from there, chief of which was that headed by Sir Hmnphrey Gilbert.

Bedford is the county seat of Bedfordshire and is situated in an agricultural
district fifty miles north of London. The country is watered by the river Ouse
which some one said "winds more meandrous than Meander." Another writer
said that the river ran eighty miles to reach a distance of eighteen and then adds,
"Blame it not, if sensible of its sad condition, and presaging its fall into the foggy
fens of the next coimty, it be loath to leave this pleasant place; as who would not
prolong their own happiness?" The name "Bedford" can be traced back to the
ninth century or earlier, when there was a military station on the river at this point
called Bedicanford, which was shortened into Bed-an-ford, meaning fortress on
the ford. Offa, King of Merda, was buried on the river bank, and this incident
has suggested to some antiquarians the possibility of another derivation. Bede
is the Saxon for prayer, or place for praying — hence Bedford may mean the prayer-
ford or the chapel at the ford. "Bede-houses" were not uncommon at that time
and when built near a ford or bridge they would suggest a prayer for a safe passage.
A castle was built after the Norman Conquest by the third baron of Bedford who
was involved in many of the internal struggles of England. One of the most memor-
able occasions was the siege conducted by Henry III, and some of the stones thrown
during the siege were used to build parts of the churches of Bedford. The barony
of Bedford was given to John Plantagenet, third son of Henry IV, who was created
Duke of Bedford and became Regent of France for the English. The chief part of

KixdlHIl Ia» Fttbti-RabtrUm, Ell.

DARTMOUTH, ENGLAND, AND THE HARBOUR,

Fnm an aid frlnl by R. AtUrmami, iSti Kitimta I— Firtn-Ktttrlua.Biq.

DARTMOUTH, ENGLAND, SHOWING DARTMOUTH CASTLE,

M)d the Church of St. Petroc u it looked when the Pilgnmi sailed by on their voytge to the New Worid.

The chinch ii coiuiderably changed today.

DARTMOUTH, NEW BEDFORD and BEDFORD loi

one time pilots were taken on at Cuttyhunk for New Bedford, and there was such
rivalry among them that they would watch the incoming vessels from the tops of
the houses with spyglasses.

It may be interesting to go across the water and say a few words about Dart-
mouth and Bedford in England. To the New Englander, Dartmouth in the beau-
tiful county of Devonshire is second only in interest to Plymouth. To this haven
the ** Mayflower" and "Speedwell,'' as every one knows, put in to overhaul the
reported defects of the latter vessel, after the two ships had been at sea only about
eight days. As it took a week to make the necessary repairs, the Pilgrims had an
opportunity to familiarize themselves with the town, and we can imagine them
roaming about the quaint streets of Dartmouth and climbing some of the steep
hills of the city. The picture on page loo is taken from one of the most precipitous
of these hills and shows the parish church of St. Saviour in the distance, which dates
from 1372. The other picture shows Dartmouth Castle and the church of St.
Petroc as they looked when the adventurers sailed down the river Dart. In this
picture is also seen the quaint steeple of the church tower which no longer exists.
The castle in its present condition dates from Henry VII, but other castles both
Saxon and Norman have previously stood on its site. The church was built in
the fourteenth century. Dartmouth has had a prominent place in the naval history
of England, and several colonial expeditions to the Western Hemisphere have set
out from there, chief of which was that headed by Sir Himiphrey Gilbert.

Bedford is the county seat of Bedfordshire and is situated in an agricultural
district fifty miles north of London. The country is watered by the river Ouse
which some one said "winds more meandrous than Meander." Another writer
said that the river ran eighty miles to reach a distance of eighteen and then adds,
"Blame it not, if sensible of its sad condition, and presaging its fall into the foggy
fens of the next county, it be loath to leave this pleasant place; as who would not
prolong their own happiness?" The name "Bedford" can be traced back to the
ninth century or earlier, when there was a military station on the river at this point
called Bedicanford, which was shortened into Bed-an-ford, meaning fortress on
the ford. Offa, King of Mercia, was buried on the river bank, and this incident
has suggested to some antiquarians the possibility of another derivation. Bede
is the Saxon for prayer, or place for praying — hence Bedford may mean the prayer-
ford or the chapel at the ford. "Bede-houses" were not uncommon at that time
and when built near a ford or bridge they would suggest a prayer for a safe passage.
A castle was built after the Norman Conquest by the third baron of Bedford who
was involved in many of the internal struggles of England. One of the most memor-
able occasions was the siege conducted by Henry III, and some of the stones thrown
during the siege were used to build parts of the churches of Bedford. The barony
of Bedford was given to John Plantagenet, third son of Henry IV, who was created
Duke of Bedford and became Regent of France for the English. The chief part of

a fkalosratli by Ihlliy 6- Fk

DARTMOUTH, ENGLAND, AND THE HARBOUR,

s built. The

Pum an M friil by R. JcinuH, igt, Kindmai lam F^ia-tMtUam. Etf.

DARTMOUTH, ENGLAND, SHOWING DARTMOUTH CASTLE,

utd the Church of St. Fetioc u it looked when the POgriini wiled by on their voyage to the New Wodd.

The church ii coniidenibly chftoged today.

DARTMOUTH, NEW BEDFORD and BEDFORD loi

one time pilots were taken on at Cuttyhunk for New Bedford, and there was such
rivalry among them that they would watch the incoming vessels from the tops of
the houses with spyglasses.

It may be interesting to go across the water and say a few words about Dart-
mouth and Bedford in England. To the New Englander, Dartmouth in the beau-
tiful county of Devonshire is second only in interest to Plymouth. To this haven
the "Mayflower'' and "Speedwell,'' as every one knows, put in to overhaul the
reported defects of the latter vessel, after the two ships had been at sea only about
eight days. As it took a week to make the necessary repairs, the Pilgrims had an
opportimity to familiarize themselves with the town, and we can imagine them
roaming about the quaint streets of Dartmouth and climbing some of the steep
hills of the city. The picture on page loo is taken from one of the most precipitous
of these hills and shows the parish church of St. Saviour in the distance, which dates
from 1372. The other picture shows Dartmouth Castle and the church of St.
Petroc as they looked when the adventurers sailed down the river Dart. In this
picture is also seen the quaint steeple of the church tower which no longer exists.
The castle in its present condition dates from Henry VII, but other castles both
Saxon and Norman have previously stood on its site. The church was built in
the fourteenth century. Dartmouth has had a prominent place in the naval history
of England, and several colonial expeditions to the Western Hemisphere have set
out from there, chief of which was that headed by Sir Hmnphrey Gilbert.

Bedford is the county seat of Bedfordshire and is situated in an agricultural
district fifty miles north of London. The country is watered by the river Ouse
which some one said "winds more meandrous than Meander." Another writer
said that the river ran eighty miles to reach a distance of eighteen and then adds,
"Blame it not, if sensible of its sad condition, and presaging its fall into the foggy
fens of the next coimty, it be loath to leave this pleasant place; as who would not
prolong their own happiness?" The name "Bedford" can be traced back to the
ninth century or earlier, when there was a military station on the river at this point
called Bedicanford, which was shortened into Bed-an-ford, meaning fortress on
the ford. Offa, King of Mercia, was buried on the river bank, and this incident
has suggested to some antiquarians the possibility of another derivation. Bede
is the Saxon for prayer, or place for praying — hence Bedford may mean the prayer-
ford or the chapel at the ford. "Bede-houses" were not uncommon at that time
and when built near a ford or bridge they would suggest a prayer for a safe passage.
A castle was built after the Norman Conquest by the third baron of Bedford who
was involved in many of the internal struggles of England. One of the most memor-
able occasions was the siege conducted by Henry III, and some of the stones thrown
during the siege were used to build parts of the churches of Bedford. The barony
of Bedford was given to John Plantagenet, third son of Henry IV, who was created
Duke of Bedford and became Regent of France for the English. The chief part of

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DARTMOUTH, fAGLAM), AM) TIIF. HARBOUR,

Frn SI oU friii< »; J!. Aclurmaim. illi Kimduat Ian PirhH-KiitHf,Eif.

DARTMOUTH, ENGLAND, SHOWING DARTMOUTH CASTLE,

uid the Church of St. Petioc u it looked when the PDgritiiB sailed by on thdr vaytge to the New Wodd.

The chuich U conaidembly changed today.

DARTMOUTH, NEW BEDFORD and BEDFORD loi

one time pilots were taken on at Cuttyhunk for New Bedford, and there was such
rivalry among them that they would watch the incoming vessels from the tops of
the houses with spyglasses.

It may be interesting to go across the water and say a few words about Dart-
mouth and Bedford in England. To the New Englander, Dartmouth in the beau-
tiful county of Devonshire is second only in interest to Plymouth. To this haven
the ** Mayflower" and "Speedwell," as every one knows, put in to overhaul the
reported defects of the latter vessel, after the two ships had been at sea only about
eight days. As it took a week to make the necessary repairs, the Pilgrims had an
opportunity to familiarize themselves with the town, and we can imagine them
roaming about the quaint streets of Dartmouth and climbing some of the steep
hills of the city. The picture on page loo is taken from one of the most precipitous
of these hills and shows the parish church of St. Saviour in the distance, which dates
from 1372. The other picture shows Dartmouth Castle and the church of St.
Petroc as they looked when the adventurers sailed down the river Dart. In this
picture is also seen the quaint steeple of the church tower which no longer exists.
The castle in its present condition dates from Henry VII, but other castles both
Saxon and Norman have previously stood on its site. The church was built in
the fourteenth century. Dartmouth has had a prominent place in the naval history
of England, and several colonial expeditions to the Western Hemisphere have set
out from there, chief of which was that headed by Sir Himiphrey Gilbert.

Bedford is the county seat of Bedfordshire and is situated in an agricultural
district fifty miles north of London. The country is watered by the river Ouse
which some one said "winds more meandrous than Meander." Another writer
said that the river ran eighty miles to reach a distance of eighteen and then adds,
"Blame it not, if sensible of its sad condition, and presaging its fall into the foggy
fens of the next coimty, it be loath to leave this pleasant place; as who would not
prolong their own happiness?" The name "Bedford" can be traced back to the
ninth century or earlier, when there was a military station on the river at this point
called Bedicanford, which was shortened into Bed-an-ford, meaning fortress on
the ford. Offa, King of Mercia, was buried on the river bank, and this incident
has suggested to some antiquarians the possibility of another derivation. Bede
is the Saxon for prayer, or place for praying — hence Bedford may mean the prayer-
ford or the chapel at the ford. "Bede-houses" were not uncommon at that time
and when built near a ford or bridge they would suggest a prayer for a safe passage.
A castle was built after the Norman Conquest by the third baron of Bedford who
was involved in many of the internal struggles of England. One of the most memor-
able occasions was the siege conducted by Henry III, and some of the stones thrown
dtuing the siege were used to build parts of the churches of Bedford. The barony
of Bedford was given to John Plantagenet, third son of Henry IV, who was created
Duke of Bedford and became Regent of France for the English. The chief part of

DARTMOUTH, NEW BEDFORD and BEDK>IU>

Graric fl, Triff. Eiq.

BIRTH OF THE WHALING INDUSTRY, NEW BEDFORD. MASSACHUSETTS
This city is known the world over as having been the leading whaling port of America. This painting
represents the first whaling carried on from here in sloops, and the scene is laid in the lower river where
the blubber was brought ashore to be tried out. Indians are bartering for the oil.

the monastic property was bestowed upon the Russell family with the Earldom of
Bedford. In 1694 the dukedom was restored by William III in consideration of
the services of the family for civil and religious liberty, and the title continues to
this day.

The name best known in connection with Bedford is that of John Bunyan who
was bom in 1628 in the nearby village of Elstow in the house which is still stand-
ing and which is shown on page 103. The church nearby has two memorial
windows to Bunyan illustrating his "Pilgrim's Progress." There is a tower in the
church which contains a chime of bells upon which Bunyan practiced the art of
bell ringing which was indulged in so much by the English at that time. Bunyan
was possessed of the Puritan spirit and became deacon of a non-conformist body
in Bedford. He was put in Jail for twelve years "because he strove to mend souls
as well as kettles." In his church is a door with scenes from "Pilgrim's Progress"
given by the Duke of Bedford. After his death which occurred in London in 1688,

DARTMOUTH, NEW BEDFORD and BEDFORD

1 ftKLyiraph Kindma, Urj. Uvy FiiM K

JOHX BUXYAN'S COTTAGE, ELSTOW, NEAR BEDFORD, ENGLAND

13 bom in this house in t6i8. There is a statue to him in Bedford and memorials in tlie church ni
bis house.

many Puritans for years afterwards begged for the privilege of being buried as near
bis grave as possible. There is a bronze statue of Bunyan in Bedford and on the
pedestal is the following inscription:^

Presented to the

Borough of Bedford

by

Hastings IX Duke of Bedford

June lo, 1874

The town of Bedford, Massachusetts, in 1892 or 1893 sent a copy of its history
to Bedford, England, which was acknowledged by F. A.BIaydes, Mayor, February
2, 1893, who said in his letter, — "I shall be very pleased to send to your public
Library a copy of my work 'Genelogia Bedfordiensis. ' " This was duly received
and is now in the Bedford Library.

I04

DEDHAM, MASSACHUSETTS

** Across the winding Charles,
From this sturdy Rock of renown,
You discern the sloping roofs
Of yon quaint old Dedham town/'

AS Edward AUeyn, Richard Everard (the old name for Everett), John Gay,
/\ John YAlis and Samuel Morse were paddling up the Charles River in the
-X jL year 1635, they complained that there were so many turns in the river that
it seemed to get them now^here. They wxTe, however, much impressed with this part
of the country and succeeded in obtaining from the General Court at Newtowne
(later called Cambridge) a grant of a tract of land south of the Charles River to
twelve men, including themselves, and this grant was later increased so that it in-
cluded the present Dedham, Norwood, Westwood, Dover, Natick, Needham,
Wellesley, Walpole, Medfield, Medway, Millis and parts of Hyde Park, Readville,
West Roxbury, Sherborn, Bellingham and Franklin. It was agreed among these
first settlers, whose numbers soon increased, that every married man should have
a house lot of twelve acres of land, and as early as 1654 there were as many as
ninety-five small houses along the river near the location of the present Court
House. These early settlers wanted to call the plantation ** Contentment" and
this name was actually written in the town records of the first two meetings and
still appears on the seal of the town, but the name was soon changed to "Dedham"
in honour of the three Johns — John Dwight, John Page and John Rogers — ^who
were among the early comers. The best known of these three was Rogers, who
with some of his friends had come over from Dedham, England, having been for-
bidden to preach in the town of his birth, and it was this fact undoubtedly that
induced the General Court to name the settlement Dedham. John Dwight was
a forbear of the late President Dwight of Yale University. There are a number of
other Johns in the early town records, including John Kingsbury, John Coolidge,
John Gay and John Ellis. Others who came from England were John Allin,
who was a pastor in the new town; Major Eleazer Lusher, leader of the train
band and one of the founders of the Ancient and Honorable Artillery Company;
Captain Daniel Fisher, a selectman; Michael Metcalf, school teacher; Joshua
Fisher, tavern keeper; Deacon Francis Chickering and Samuel Guild. Many of
these families still live in the town. Those who settled in West Dedham, now called
Westwood, were Avery, Baker, Colbum, Fales, Farrington, Kingsbury, Wright
and Wilson. Major Lusher was one of the most prominent of these pilgrims, and his
duty was to keep the town records, which he did so well that it was later said of him,

<<

When Lusher was in office, all things went well,
But how they go since, it shames us to tell."

Prtm "Birtei-i Uislfital CslleniaiK"

SOUTHERN VIEW OF THE COURT-HOUSE IN DEDHWI \I\SS\CHLsLrrs

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NORFOLK AGRICULTURAL SOCIETY'S EXHIBITION,
held in Dedham, Muaachuaetta, sixty or more years ago. The gniunda were near Dedham Commoo,

io6 DEDHAM, MASSACHUSETTS

The records of the town are complete from the first entry made by him in 1635 to
the present time, a fact which can be said of few towns of Massachusetts.

The old Fairbanks house was erected by Jonathan Fairbanks soon after the
settlement of the town and has been in the family ever since, a place of interest to
thousands of tuurists annually.

Curiously enough, another minister of the same name lived in the English
Dedham at almost the same time that John Rogers came to Dedham, Massachu-
setts; their relationship has never been definitely determined, but the latter may
have been a brother or cousin of Nathaniel Rogers, son of the Rev. John Rogers,
who never came to this country, and whose name appears on old Dedham records
up to the year 1651. The former had been preaching to large congregations in
Dedham church, near the beginning of the seventeenth century, but had been
continually persecuted. He did much to encourage emigration to New England
and so did his si>n Nathaniel, who was instrumental in naming our Ipswich, Haver-
hill and Chelmsford for the towns near his home in England. The church in
Ipswich, America, for one hundred and fifty years was presided over by descend-
ants of John Rogers. When he died in England he was widely mourned. In
the churchyard of the Dedham Parish Church
of old Dedham is a tombstone to mark his burial
place and around the margin the following words
in Latin were deciphered some years ago:

I, John Rogers, a preacher of the Word of God,
42, in this place 31 years . . . my work being
finished, I have resigned my soul . . . my body
... I wait for the day . . . Aged 65, October
18, 1636.

In the center the following words are still left
although the rest of the inscription has been
obliterated : —

True-hearted worshipper of God,
No Boanerges more courageously
Gave forth his thunder, and no Barnabas
Spake with more dulcet tone than he. . . .

There is also a bust of him in the Parish Church
on the south chancel wall. There is another tab-
let to the memory of Daniel Sargent Curtis, who
was bom in Boston in 1835 and who lies buried
beneath the tablet on the outside of the south wall.
Old Dedham existed before it was called Ded-
ham, before Essex had become the land of the
East Saxons, and before the country was known

■PMtitaHi »r F. Frilk a- Ct. Entland

in Fvtci-JMcrlwi. Eiq,
BUST OF REV. JOHN ROGERS,
in the parish church of Dedham, Eng-
land. He may have been a relative o(
the John Rogers who was one of the
three men in whose honour Dedham,
Massachusetts, was named. His son.
Nathaniel, was instrumental in trnming
Ipswich, Haverlull and Cbelniafoid,
Massachuaetts.

ilorical Sadilf. Dtdkam, k

THE "VALE OF DEDHAM," ENGLAND

with old Dedham and Uie

DEDHAM, MASSACHUSETTS

M Crafkk Frimiini &• P<ibliM<tl fo„ LU., CltHontn-Sn

DEDHAM STREET, DEDHAM. ENGLAND

as England, or by the older name of Britain. The river Stour on which the town
is situated was nameless for many centuries. When Caesar invaded Britain in 55
B.C. the region near Dedham was thickly inhabited by a tribe called Trinobantes,this
country later being known as Middlesex and Essex. The Trinobantes submitted to
Ciesar, who restored their native prince to the throne. The old Romans made no
permanent conquest until ninety years later, when they estabtished a Roman station
in Dedham called "ad Ansam" or "Roman Dedham." The Saxons settled near
Dedham and called it "Home in the Valley." The first information of old Dedham,
as of most English places, is derived from a survey made in the time of William the
Conqueror contained in the Domesday Book, and here we find an account of the
Manor of "Delham" (as it was then called) as it was at the death of Edward the
Confessor in 1066. In these early days it belonged to "Aluricus Camp," meaning
i^lfric the Champion, and later it fell into the hands of the Normans xmder Roger
de Ramis. Here many Flemings were encouraged by Edward IH to come and
teach the English the art of making cloth. Dedham played an important rWe in
Henry VIII's matrimonial adventures; he gave the town to Catharine of Aragon
on their marriage, but immediately transferred the property to his later wife Anne

DEDHAM, MASSACHUSETTS

It hrSchtixni-Stii a*Hk PtiMint fr PuNiiUnt Ct.. Lli., CJscM»4*-Sm

DEDHAM CHURCH, ENGLAND

Boleyn, and still later gave it to Jane Seymour, another of his wives. On the exe-
cution of the latter, the King gave Dedham to his brother-in-law, Charles Brandon,
Duke of Suffolk, later transferring it to his minister, Thomas Cromwell, and when
the latter fell, another wife of King Heniy, Anne of Cleves, became possessor of
these lands.

The picture of the "Vale of Dedham" on another page is from a print taken
from one of the paintings by John Constable, who has always been closely asso-
ciated with Dedham and the neighboring towns. In his boyhood he worked
for his father, who was a miller, and the young lad could be seen every day in his
white suit and hat on his father's cart going to and from the mill. He went to the
Grammar School at Dedham where he showed especial skill in penmanship. His
master noticed his pupil's talent, and on several occasions during his lessons there
would be a long pause which was broken by the master, who would say: " Go on;
I am not asleep. Oh, now I see you are in your painting room!" Constable spent
most of his early days working for a glazier and painter. He died in London. He
made his reputation by his English landscapes, and his "Cornfield" and "Flatford
Mills" are recognized by all Dedhamites as nearby scenes. When asked once
what style he intended to imitate, he said, "None but God Almighty's style." He

DEDHAM, MASSACHUSETTS iii

thought he came into the world to convince mankind that nature was beautiful,
and he often used to say, **I love every stile and stump and lane in the village; as
long as I am able to hold a brush I shall never cease to paint them." His painting
of "Dedham Hill," showing the conspicuous and attractive Dedham church tower,
is in the Sheepshanks collection in the South Kensington Museum.

Edmund Sherman and his wife are buried in old Dedham churchyard. Rev.
W. F. Cheney of the Church of the Good Shepherd of Dedham, Mass., who preached
in the parish church of Dedham, England, on July 17, 1892, corroborates the fact
that this Ekimund Sherman was an ancestor of Gen. William T. Sherman, some
members of the family having come to our Boston as early as 1634. The family
tomb is in bad condition and at one time there was a movement on foot to renovate
it.

There is also a Dedham in Maine, and one in Tennessee.

DORCHESTER, MASSACHUSETTS

"It was Thanksgiving Day, and the sea-meadows lay
In long russet curves round old Dorchester Bay ;
The sturdy oak mansions had opened their halls,
The chimneys had smoked on the Mystic and Charles,
And Grandfather Minot looked out on the Sea —
The last of the Dorchester Pilgrims was he —
And he leaned on his cane, and he said, 'They are gone,
The Pilgrims who sailed On the "Mary and John,'*
That old Thanksgiving Day,
Into Dorchester Bay.

I love the strange tales of the Pilgrims of yore,
And of those who first landed on Dorchester's shore.
How they sang on the sea! They are gone, all are gone.
The Pilgrims who saUed on the "Mary and John;"
On that Old Siunmer Day,
Into Dorchester Bay.

Give thanks for such men on the Thanksgiving Mom,
Such heroes as sailed on the "Mary and John,"
Let the bells ring today
Around Dorchester Bay.'"

(Part of poem written by Hezekiah Butterworth on the two hundred and fiftieth anniversary of the
Firat Parish Cfhurch in the Town of Dorchester.)

TWO attractive tablets, the gift of Deacon Henry Humphreys, one on each
side of the doorway of the First Parish Church of Dorchester, Mass.,
honour the Rev. John White and his friends, whom he persuaded to come
over to this country in 1630 to found a colony in our wilderness. Rev. John White,
who was known to his contemporaries as the "Patriarch of Dorchester" and to later

DORCHESTER, MASSACHUSETTS

DORCHESTER

NAMED

f ROM THE "TOWN OF DORCHRSTER.

IN DORSET ENGLAND.

The first settlers

Aailcd from Plymouth, England

in the Mary and John.

, (one or the Winthrop FIcgI,)

' March 20. 1630. ^^

:ArrivGd at N^askGl,(nwHiill)May3Q

And landed in DordiesLer -

Uune 6. I63O.

THf. mS CHURCH or THIS PARISH

V\S BUILT l«.AR THE CORNER OF

CUI TAGE AH&PLE^SANT STREirTS.lN I 6 J I

SK.ON[)CMI.fii.H PUIT. ltt-l6 ■

RLMCftTD 10 MFITINC HOUSE HII.1., 1(170 |

IMIRf) CHURCH Blltr. ' 167/

FOLiRFH CHURCH Ui'll T. l7->3 I

Fii-rtiQiUBCiibuii r. \»\6 ■

SIXTP I^^HBUIir. IS^6 I

"TWjm

'nm a ^Ufrstk

n Mimi'lir

~^ ^

FIRST PARISH ^

DORCHESTER

1630

Church formed in Plymouth En^laiid

under the guidance of

REV JOHN WHITE

of Dorchester England

MrNISTERS

REV. JOHN WAHHAM

- JOHN MAVERrCK

- fUCHARD MATHER

- JOSIAH FLINT

- JOHN DANFORTH
" JONATHAN eOWMAM

- MOSES EVERETT

- THADDE US M.HARRIS
'• NATHANIEL MALL
•■ SA«L)EL J, BARROWS

- CHRISIOPHER R.ELIOT
■■ EUGENE R.SHIPPEN
-■ ROGER S.FORBLS
■- HARRY FOSTER BURNS

TABLET

IN THE FIRST PARISH CHURCH,

DORCHESTER. MASSACHUSETTS.

in memory of the early settlers of the town.

TABLET

IN THE FIRST PARISH CHURCH,

DORCHESTER. MASSACHUSETTS.

in memory of Rev. John White, with the namei

of all the mimiteis of the churdi from his time.

writers as the "Father of the Massachusetts Colony," had previously interested
himself in encouraging the settlement at Plymouth and had furnished money to
the settlers here, also urging at the same time many of the old Dorchester fishermen
to make voyages into American waters. His failure at Cape Ann in 1624 only
stimulated him to new undertakings, and we soon find him, with about one
hundred and forty of his friends, in the New Hospital at Plymouth (shown oapage
113) where they spent the night previous to sailing for America. White himself
did not come over on the "Mary and John," but preached to them just before
sailing. Among the notable passengers were Captain Roger Clap, Henry Wolcott,
an ancestor of the late Governor Wolcott, Thomas Ford, George Dyer, Wlliam

DORCHESTER, MASSACHUSETTS

rnm*mtUtriiil KimimaiUri.UvyFiluU KImt

FhHivmtlidh f. A . FrtM tnJ Sm. H. P. B.nu

"THE NEW HOSPITAL," PLYMOUTH, ENGLAND,
the building (t&ken down in 1S69) in which the members of the Fiist Church in Dorchester gathered
before nOing in the "Mary uid John," March 20, 1619-30, for Dorchester, Massachusetts. This picture
hangs in the Miniiter's Room in the First Parish Church of Dorchester, Massachusetts.

Gaylord, William Rockwell, William Phelps, Israel Stoughton, George Minot,
George Hall, Richard Collicot, Nathaniel Duncan, Captains John Mason and
Richard Southcote. Much to their disgust Captain Squeb landed them in Hull
on May 30, 1630, instead of near the Charles River where they hoped to disembark.
Some of their number, therefore, rowed up the Charles and settled at Charlestown,
but the larger part of the colony landed at Savin Hill, Dorchester, then called Mat-
tapan. This was the second parish in the colony and the third in New England.
The settlement was called after the old town in England, for the reason that among
the early settlers "were some from Dorset Shire and some of ye town of Dorchester "
and they furthermore wished to do special honour to the Rev. Mr. White, who was
the Rector of St. Peter's Church and who held this position for forty years. In
E^redation of this great man, Richard C. Hiunphreys, a member of the First Parish
Church in our Dorchester, and some of his friends, placed in the parish church of

DORCHESTER, MASSACHUSETTS 115

St. Peter, old Dorchester, where his body lies, a memorial tablet shown in the cut
on page 119, the inscription on which reads as follows: —

In this Porch lies the Body of the Rev^. John White, M.A., of New
College, Oxford. He was bom at Christmas, 1575. For about forty
years he was Rector of this Parish, and also of Holy Trinity, Dorchester.
He died here 21 July, 1648. A Man of great Godliness, good Scholar-
ship, and wonderful Ability and Kindness. He had a very strong
sway in this Town. He greatly set forward the Emigration to the
Massachusetts Bay Colony, where his name lives in unfading remem-
brance.

The first winter in America was exceedingly cold and Judge Sewall wrote that
the communion bread was frozen pretty hard and rattled sadly in the plates
during church service. In these early days Dorchester included Milton, Dedham,
Hyde Park, Canton, Sharon, Foxboro and part of Stoughton, all this land being
known to the English as the "land beyond the Blue Hills." Other settlers came
over from Weymouth, England, to Dorchester, in 1633, and at this time, three years
after the establishment of the plantation, it was the richest in the colony.

The old church in our Dorchester is most attractive, and contains a niunber of
relics of interest both to Englishmen and Americans. The clock in the vestry, of
Chinese design, dated 1770, came from England; the pulpit also came from England,
and was used in the old West Church in our Boston until it was given up, when
the pulpit was presented to the Dorchester meeting house. There is also a Bible
of the time of King George III, which is still in use. There is also an attractive
memorial room to Mrs. Emily A. Fifield, whose family came from the town of
Fyfield, England. This room contains the old key of Fyfield Church and a copy
of the Rev. John White's book "The Tree of Life," which was written in 1647
and given to the church by William Taylor of London. This book contains advice
to the colonies and is very rare. The church, too, owns most of the original records
which were started in the earliest times and which have been continued up to the
present time. The old Pierce house in Dorchester contained some furniture
which came over with the early settlers, but these rare articles were sold about
a year ago. The Pierces also owned a piece of bread which was brought over in
the "Mary and John" and which is now preserved by one of the descendants.

Since 1855 there have been two anniversaries in Dorchester to commemorate
the settlement of the plantation. The first one was held on Easter Sunday, March
28, 1880, to commemorate the gathering of the Church in England and its departure
for America, and the second was held on June 17th of the same year to commemo-
rate the anniversary of the planting of the church in Dorchester, and the settlement
of the town, which took place June 6, 1630. This second celebration was attended
by Governor John D. Long of Massachusetts, who in his speech referred to the
fact that there was also a John Long who had been a resident of Dorchester, Eng-

Ii6 DORCHESTER, MASSACHUSETTS

Frama pkntnt'ifli Kinilnai Edward A . Siictncr. Eif.

ANCIENT ROMAN PAVEMENT AT THE ENTRANCE OF THE DORCHESTER HIGH SCHOOL,

DORCHESTER, MASSACHUSETTS
It was oriRinally a Bection of the " Fosse " or Roman Way laid by the Romans in Dorchester, England,
after they had subjugated the Biitons in 55 B.C. It was secured by the Dorchester High School in iqoj
through the enterprise of Charies J. Lincoln, Emj., then principal of the school, and the tate Richard C.
Humphreys, ICsq., president of the Dorchester Historical Society. It was discovered when the crypt of
All Saints Church, Dorchester, England, was being repaired and waa presented to Dorchester through the
kindness of the Rev. S. E. V. Filleul, rector of the church. It is composed of red and white cuties of
various sizes enclosed within a brass border and is almost ten feet long and six feet wide, containing about
nine thousand blocks.

land. In the church on this occasion were some roses from roots brought over
from England in the early days, and also other flowers that had come from Plym-
outh and other towns in England. The vestry was hung with pictures of Dor>
Chester, England, which were loaned by Rev. E. G. Porter of Lexington, Massa-
chusetts. The following telegram from the Mayor of Dorchester, England, was
read during this celebration and was followed by great applause: —

"Old Dorchester sends cordial congratulations to New Dorchester upon its two hun-
ilied and fiftieth anniversary and warmly reciprocates its affectionate attachment."

The town of Windsor, Connecticut, which was founded by settlers from oiu: Dor-
chester, was also represented at this meeting. In the minister's room in oiu: Parish
Chiuch are many interesting pictures of Dorchester, England, and on pages 113,
118 and 1 19 we give illustrations taken from these prints.

In 1904 and 1905, after considerable correspondence, our Dorchester received
part of an old Roman pavement which was discovered while the crypt of All
Saints Church was undergoing repairs, and it seemed appropriate that young
Dorchester should have some legacy from the early home of so many of her pioneers.
The Dorchester High School finally became the possessor of this historic re&c and
it was placed in the floor within the entrance of the school, and the following tablet
.nearby describes it: —

HANGMAN'S COTTAGE, DORCHESTER, ENGLAND
la the early days Dorchester kept its own hangman.

i>tawr«f* h Btrnard Gfigm Kitidaiti Ian Firba-KttvUen. Btq.

THE BIRTHPLACE OF SHi THOMAS HARDY, CM., THE NOVELIST, BOCKHAMPTON,
DORCHESTER, ENGLAND

DORCHESTER, MASSACHUSETTS

plHlat'iplHd byF.A. FiiuU/t^ a prM >■ Ikt Mittinn; ft»M .^ thi FitUPatitk

ST. PETER'S CHCRCH, IJORCHKSTICk, EN'GLAND
Rev. John White, who organbi^ the colony that came to Dorchester, Massachusetts, in i6jo, is buried in
tliia Epgikh church, of which he was rector for many years. The tablet which was erected to his memory
hy residents of Dorchester, Massachusetts, and which is shown in another cut, is in this church.

The

Tessellated

Pavement

below

was originally laid in Dorchester, England, during

the Roman occupation of that countrj'

5SB.C.-4IOA.D.

It was discovered while

repairs were being made in

the crypt of Alt Saints Church

and through the kindness of

Rev. S. E. V. Filleul

The Rector of that Parish

was received by the friends of

the Dorchester High School

and was placed in its present

location March

DORCHESTER, MASSACHUSETTS

"9

There are also some colored pictures of old Dorchester below this tablet. This
pavement is composed of red and white cubes of various sizes, and contains about
nine thousand small blocks. It is to the efforts of Mr, Charles J. Lincoln, then
principal of the Dorchester High School, and the late Richard C. Humphreys, for
many years president of the Dorchester Historical Society, who cheerfully bore the
expense of the removal of this pavement, that we are indebted for this old relic.

Interchanges also took place between the two towns in 1855, and in anticipa-
tion of the celebration the committee in charge of the event sent a very friendly
letter to the Mayor of Dorchester, England, parts of which are as follows: —

"Your place being the residence of many of our progenitors, and from which this
town derived its name, we address you with an affectionate interest. It is comparatively
but a few years since our ancestors left their quiet home and launched forth upon the
ocean, to make a new home for themselves and posterity, and to take up their abode in
this then inhospitable wilderness of savages and wild beasts. . . . We believe that this is
almost the only country ever settled that had not the lower motive of gold, plunder, or
conquest, for its paramount object. ... It is supposed that this town was called Dor-
chester, on account of the great respect of its early settlers for Rev. John White, a clergy-
man of your place at that time, and an active instnunent in promoting the settlement
and procuring its charter. They
sailed from Plymouth, England,
March 10, and arriving May 30,
1630, theycame in the ship Mary
andJohn,Capt.Squeb, and were
finally settled down here as a
body politic about June 17,
1630. They were reinforced
from time to time, and many
remained here only for a short
period, and then went to other
places and made new homes.
It is estimated that there are
now living, in this country, two
hundred thousand persons who
are descendants of the early
settlers of this town, . . . The
inhabitants of this town propose
to celebrate the 79th anniver-
sary of our birthday as a nation,
on the coming July 4th. Hon.
Edward Everett, a native of this
place, and late Minister Pleni-
potentiary to Great Britain, will
address the assembly. The sons
and daughters of the town,
wherever scattered, are invited
to come to theu* ancestral home
and unite with us on this occa-
mon. It ia too much for us to
ask that a del^ation might be

In

THli Porch

' LIES THE BOBV Of
' THE lltf JOHN WHirEM
f CoLiicE.oxro
•'Hc was born kt Chkistm^s I

''FOIJIOVr FO«rY YEJIUS t€ WKRICTOR OF ^

^ Ttiis Pkish md «.!o of Holy T«iHirT Ooocitiltii.N

He died here iiJvlv isas
\y X Mm OF OEM Ccim.t>cs!CiK[<ScNDi.<tiiSMir.flW

J. WMOEItfVUBILITr XWKHWKESS.HEH^OA '
s^niYiTlOXCSWJfiltTtllsToniHECIEirLY ,

^ id rokvMi Tti Emicwitwh ro tke
^ lilJli^HystrjBifCoLOXi'.iMER

^ HIlNMEllVEIIIIVIflDIlK ,
' REMfeMBRiTHCE.

a pklMH >» Uu MiniiUr't Kocm i» ikt Firil Pafiik Cterct, £Wclalv,
JEiWiHii Itri. Uary FifitU Xinf amiRn.n.F. Ainu

invited TABLET IN THE PARISH CHURCH OF ST. PETER'S,
DORCHESTER, ENGLAND,
^aced there in roemory of Rev. John White, by Tcsidents of
Dotchesler, Musachuaetts. He is called the "Fatiiarch of Dor-
chester," BS be wu instrumental in sending a colony to oui

sent from your Borough to add Dorchester in 1630.

DORCHESTER, MASSACHUSETTS

to the interest of this festival; but
should one or more of your citizens
whom you would approve be in this
coiuitiy, it would give us great pleas-
ure to have them attend as our
guests. . . . distance is computed by
time and not space, so th^t you seem
neighbors as well as friends, and by
this epistle we reach forth across the
ocean and oSer you the right hand
of fellowship.

signed by Edmund P. Tileston
Edmund J. Baker
Ebenezer Clapp, Jr.
Wm. D. Swan
Wm. B. Teask
Wm. H. Richardson
Jamks Swan
Samuel Blake
Edward Holden"

In answer a return message was
received, part of which is given
below : —

"Your letter, which as Mayor it
fell to my lot to receive, has created
a feehng of interest amongst us, and
we welcome with great cordiality the
communication from those whom we
may style kinsfolks. I have caused
your letter to be printed, and have
circulated it amongst such persons
especially as are likely to assist us
in our inquiries on the subject of it. . . . We feet that we cannot furnish you with an
account of our town and neighborhood in such a manner as we would wish, in time for
your anniversary but we hope by the Both anniversary to be able to collect a portfolio
for you, which, if you wish, we shall gladly forward to you. I have already a nucleus of
the collection. . . . Mr. White's name is still known in the Borough and there are still
names amongst us enumerated by you. , . . Our design is to furnish you, if acceptable,
with full description of the town and neighborhood, accompanied by such views as we
may be able to procure or furnish to illustrate our account. We do not think we can do
this with justice to the subject before next summer, but it you will then accept it as a
pledge of good feeling and good fellowship, it is humbly at your service.

Signed Thomas Coombs, Mayor."

Pkttatnfk by Btntvd Grifif

Ian Foitei.R<ihrTtm, Est.

REMAINS OF THE HOUSE IN DORCHESTER, ENG-
LAND, IN WHICH REV. JOHN ttHITE LIVED

During the recent war an invitation was sent to American soldiers from Dor-
chester who should pass through England, to accept the hospitality of the En^ish
borough, a courtesy much appreciated.

Minot and Humphreys were two of the early settlers in new Dorchester and it

DORCHESTER, MASSACHUSETTS

HIGH STREET WEST, DORCHESTER, ENGLAND,
showing St. Peter's Church in background.

is said that these lines appeared on the former's tomb in the old Upham's Comer
burial ground : —

Here he the bodies of Unite Humphreys and Shining Minot,
Such names as those, they never die not.

In the cemetery at Upham's Comer, Dorchester, there is a tablet in memory of
the early settlers who are buried there, also some old English tombstones similar
to those in Plymouth, Massachusetts.

Theoldsealof the town is an interesting one; on it appears the old thatch-roofed
meeting house, also the Blue Hills which served to pilot these early settlers to our
harbour, and the triple towered Castle placed there in memory of the Castle in
Dorchester, England, which was copied from the seal of the old town of Dorchester,
England. The most recent interchange between the two Dorchesters is the stone
sent towards the latter part of 1919 by Rev. Grosvenor Bartelot, M.A., Vicar of
St. George's, Fordington, Dorchester, England, to Rev. Simon B. Blunt, Rector

IJ2 DORCHESTER, MASSACHUSETTS

of All Saints Church, Dorchester, Massachusetts. This stone is to be set in the
top of the altar. The Enghsh Rector writes that this stone formed a part of the
ancient stone altar of his Church which dates back to the year i200 or earlier.
An altar was found in Dorchester, England, which records that Dorchester was

a flourishing Roman settlement
before the invasion by the Sax-
ons. The Romans called it
Durnovaria which meant
"water way" or "channel."
The old town has some in-
teresting places, which include
the Roman walls and the am-
phitheatre called " Maumbury
Rings," which is one of the
finest in England and goes
back to the time of Agricola.
There are also the large earth-
works of Maiden Castle. The
cut on page 1 1 7 shows Hang-
man's Cottage, which is one of
the sights pointed out to visi-
tors. At one time it would
seem that the mother town
was not over virtuous, as the
records show that the hang-
man was kept very busy. The
house of Judge Jeffreys, who
was called the " Bloody Judge,"
is also pointed out to the sight-
seer. John Endicott was bora
in Dorchester, England, and
Sir Thomas Hardy, the novel-
ist, and Barnes, the poet, both Uved there. Another interesting fact is that John
Lothrop Motley, the historian, who was bom and lived in our Dorchester lived
and died in the English Dorchester. The town is supposed to be a place of health-
giving qualities, if we judge by the remark made by one of the physicians of the
town who said that a " doctor could neither live nor die in Dorchester."

FMcirafli brF.A. FnWI

PIECES OF BKEAI> AND CORN-COB,

brought to Dorchester, Massachusetts, by Robert and Ann
Pierce in the "Mary and John," in i6jo. These relics of the
early settlers have been in the Pierce family of Dorchester,
Massachusetts, ever since.

(.;ri:i;\. dublin', irkland

BLARXEY C;VSTLE,
near Dublin, Ireland.

124

DUBLIN, NEW HAMPSHIRE

HENRY STRONGMAN forms the connecting link between Dublin, New
Hampshire and Dublin, Ireland. He was bom in the Irish capital and was
the only one of the original Scotch-Irish settlers to remain permanently
in this New England town. These facts furnish us with sufficient proof that the
name Dublin was given in his honour, the previous name having been "Monadnock
No. 3.*' The late Thaddeus Morse has corroborated this reason for the naming
of the town, for he describes hearing a discussion concerning this subject when he
was a boy, and he remembered that **the name Dublin was chosen because the
earliest settlers were Scotch-Irish and the capital of their native country was Dublin."
Strongman was a weaver by trade, came to this country about 1736, lived in Boston
for a short time, and then moved to the vicinity of Deerfield, Massachusetts. Soon
alter, his family became the fifth to take up a residence in Dublin, New Hampshire.
In the year 1800, the several branches of the family changed their name to Strong.
The first meeting of the incorporated town was held in 1771, although the name
Dublin may have been used previously. The first board of selectmen chosen at
this meeting in addition to Strongman, comprised Thomas Morse and Benjamin
Mason, Joseph Greenwood being elected town clerk. Strongman is described as
being well educated and most helpful to the town in its early days. Morse was
supposed to have been the first permanent English settler in this attractive New
Hampshire town.

This territory was settled many years before 1771, a deed dated November 3,
1749, having been given by Colonel Joseph Blanchard, Jr., of Dunstable, by power
vested in him by the proprietors, by vote of a meeting held in Portsmouth, New
Hampshire; this grant ran to Matthew Thornton, Samuel Stoddard and thirty-
eight others. The allotment of land and drawing of shares took place on the first
Tuesday of Jime, 1750, at Dunstable. The first settler was William Thornton, a
brother of Matthew, and one of the signers of the Declaration of Independence,
who stayed, however, only a short time, and who had a daughter bom there named
Mollie, the first white child bom in the town. A tablet was erected in the town
about twenty-five years ago to his memory. About ten years later some Scotch-
Irish families came from Londonderry, New Hampshire, to Peterborough, New
Hampshire, and several of them moved over to Dublin, among them being John
Alexander, William McNee, Alexander Scott, with his son William, and James
Taggart. A nimiber of people also moved to Dublin from Sherbom, Massachu-
setts, and also from Natick, Medfield, Holliston, Framingham, Temple and Am-
herst, imtil in the year 1775 there were three hundred and five settlers in Dublin
as compared to twenty-three voters five years before. Most of these settlers, how-
ever, came from Sherbora, and the greatest friendship has always existed between

DUBLttT, NEW HAMPSHUIE

TnOl ^uiiJm •/ B

IMk»M hy ttrmiiiin U Ui Bit' Mt Xif<U Hnf' CBASLBS EARL WBITWOKTB, G.C.B. Lord Lieu' ^ Inland. ai
bijUh Oritr ,f sf- Pobick iy U. ruptctfid fr OMImI Smuf (S^ned) J*ni

CASTLE OF DUBLIN

the two towns, resulting in 1771 in the gift of a communion set to the church in
Dublin by a Mrs. Whitney of Sherbom. The one hundredth anniversary of the
settlement of Dublin was held on June 17, 1853.

Of the ancient capital of Ireland on the river Liffey, Thackeray said, as he
looked at the view from Cariisle Bridge: —

' ' beautiful the Four Courts and dome to the left, the Custom House and
dome to the right, vesseb on the river, the scene animated and lively."

Carlyle also visited Dublin and described the terrible week that it took him to sail
there from England. Another description of the dty was given by the well-known
Irishman, George Moore, who said there were four objects of interest, the Castle,
Shelboume Hotel, the Kildore Street Club and Mrs. Rusville, the fashionable
dressmaker of that time. It was there also, in Hoey's Court, in Castle Street, where
Jonathan Swift, Dean of St. Patrick's, was bom in the year 1667, though no trace

126 DUBLIN, NEW HAMPSHIRE

of the building can be seen today; and in this cathedral so closely associated with
Dean Swift, lie side by side his body and that of Stella, whose real name was Esther
Johnson; she was married to Swift, but this fact was kept a secret to the day of his
death. Sir Walter Scott in speaking of St. Patrick's Cathedral, declared that the
church was Swift's tomb and that his face could be seen in every comer.

The history of Dublin Castle is said to be practically the history of Ireland after
the twelfth century. It has been claimed that Dean Swift almost burned it up by
trying to read there in bed one evening. King Henry II presented Dublin to five
himdred citizens of Bristol, who came over to view the newly acquired possessions,
but their reception was not very cordial, for they were attacked by the hill people,
who killed all of them. At the beginning of the thirteenth century, Fitz Henry
determined to erect a strong fortress on Cork Hill, and began therefore to build the
ancient castle of Dublin, of which so much has been written. In its chapel the
Viceroy and his court held sway and received the fashionables of the City. The
great balls, the acme of a debutante's desire, were held in Beefeaters Hall in the
Castle and there we are told that the ladies who wanted to dance were placed in
rows or tiers reaching all the way from the floor to the ceiling, an arrangement
described as ** being in paradise." On these occasions great etiquette was enforced
and only persons of sufficient social prominence were allowed to meet the Eling's
representative. The more recent balls were given in St. Patrick's Hall, and here
the annual festival in honour of this Saint was held on every March seventeenth
at which the Lord Lieutenant was always obliged to go through with the formality
of ** drowning the shamrock," and on this day of carnival all made merry. In the
evening St. Patrick's Ball took place. Here also levees were held once a year, and
all the "belles and beaux" of Dublin drove to Cork Hill, one of the greatest "belles"
of her day being the daughter of Sir David and Lady Roche. In the nineteenth
century Dublin was the second capital in the British dominions and was such a
center of fashion and gaiety that the Viceroy's Court exceeded the brilliancy of that
of George III. We are told that of all the viceroys the Duke of Abercom, who
gave most wonderful dinners during the season, was the most magnificent, and
second to his entertainments were the fancy dress balls given by Mrs. Guinness,
which are described as being most attractive.

To the little theatre in Smoke Alley came many of the leading actors and actresses
of the day, including Garrick, Peg Woffington, Fannie Kemble and Mrs. Siddons.
The scene after the theatre let out has been described as one of great conmiotion,
for the lane was very narrow, and the sleepers nearby were much disturbed at the
noise, and could be seen with their heads out of the windows, swearing at the audi-
ence as it filed out, the torch bearers, the coachmen and the footmen.

Some writers have claimed that Dublin, called both Dublana and Eblana in
the olden days, resembled London, and certainly College Green with its attractive
buildings as shown in the cut reminds one of the English capital; this Green once

DUBLIN, NEW HAMPSHIRE 127

formed part of a village called Hogges or Le Hogges, from the word Hoge, meaning
small sepulchral mounds, found there during the time of Charles I. The word
Dublin is derived from Dhu-b-linn, meaning *^the black or dark pool/^ its name in
ancient days having been Baile Atha Cliath.

There is an interesting legend in connection with St. Patrick and the ford over
the river Lifley ; as the Saint was going home to Armagh he stayed in the city over
night and while there his hosts complained of the bad water, whereupon it is claimed
he caused a fountain to spring up at a place near the present site of St. Patrick's
Cathedral which was entirely restored at one time by Benjamin Lee Guinness.

The Danes continually landed and sacked the town and in 840 the people of
Dublin erected a fortress on the same place, probably, where the Norman castle
was later built. In the next century the same troublesome tribe was beaten by
Malachi II, who as Moore wrote **wore the collar of gold, that he won from the
proud invader.''

Trinity College Library, the Royal Irish Academy and the Royal Dublin So-
ciety are some of the most important organizations of the city, the Dublin Horse
Show being an annual event known the world over. A memorial was erected in
Sackville Street to Nelson in 1803.

FALMOUTH, MASSACHUSETTS

" AI^S you a man of Kent?'' was usually the first question asked by the people
/\ of County Kent, England, when they met a stranger, and if one could
^ ^ answer in the affirmative, he was considered of very superior quahty. In
the early history of our colony a company of persons arrived in Scituate, Massa-
chusetts, from this county in England and, in describing their landing, the Massa-
chusetts Historical Society Collections say that ** Scituate, indebted to the sub-
stantial character of some of its founders, many of whom it is e\ddent came from
Kent, England, soon became a respectable town, which superiority it maintained to
the latest annals of the colony." There is a street in Scituate called **Kent Street"
that still recalls to us these early settlers from that county. Part of this Scituate
company removed to West Barnstable and began the settlement of that town in
1639. Some years later, in 1660, some of this colony again moved from Barn-
stable to Falmouth. They arrived in boats and landed between Fresh and Salt
Ponds, where they lived, imtil their homes were constructed, near " Consider Hatch's
Pond," called "Sider's Pond" for short. Most of the names of these Falmouth
settlers were Scituate and Barnstable names and include the families of Hatch,
Robinson, Chapman, Jenkins, Hamlin, Lothrop, Nelson, Cobb, Hinckley and
Bacon. When these first settlers arrived in Falmouth the wife of Jonathan Hatch
unexpectedly gave birth to a son and when asked what she would call it, she replied.

FALMOUTH, MASSACHUSETTS 129

**He was bom among the flags and his name shall be Moses," and from that time
imtil now this name has been a familiar one in the town.

Falmouth across the seas is on the river Fal, as its name implies, and is an at-
tractive seaport in Cornwall built on very steep hills. There has been much rivahy
between this town and Plymouth which caused a Falmouth writer to say: "Like-
wise as Plymouth vaimteth richer and fairer towne and greater plenty of fish than
Falmouth, so Falmouth braggeth that a hundred sayle (sail) may anker within its
circuit and no one of them see the other's top, which Plymouth cannot equal."
Falmouth is an important port and many noted persons have frequented it. Lord
Exmouth, who was a Pellew and whose family were at one time well known in
Maryland, sailed on the waters of the harbour, as did also Nelson and other famous
admirals; the news of the great victory of the Nile was brought to this seaport
first. It is interesting besides to remember that Napoleon on his way to St. Helena
put in there. Falmouth was noted chiefly as having been the leading pK)rt of the
packet service, and the following lines give an excellent idea of the town during
these flourishing days which lasted for about one hundred and sixty years.

"We past in sight of St. Maurs, a little fishing town on the east of the bay, and
anchored about noon at Falmouth. There is a man always on the look-out for the packets;
he makes a signal as soon as one is seen, and every woman who has a husband on board
gives him a shilling for the intelligence. . . . The perpetual stir and bustle of this inn is as
surprising as it is wearisome. Doors opening and shutting, bells ringing, voices calling
to the waiter from every quarter, while he cries 'coming' to one room, and hurries away
to another. Everybody is in a hurry here; either they are going of! in the packets, and
are hastening their preparations to embark, or they have just arrived, and are impatient
to be on the route homeward. Every now and then a carriage rattles up to the door with
rapidity which makes the very house shake. The man who deans the boots is running in
one direction, the barber with his powder-bag in another; here goes the barber's boy
with his hot water and razors; there comes the clean linen from the washer-woman;
and the hall is full of porters and sailors, bringing in luggage or bearing it away; — now
you hear a horn blown because the post b coming in, and in the middle of the night you
are awakened by another because it is going out."

This packet service started in the year 1688 and really made the town of Falmouth.
A few brigs also were sent to Spain, Portugal, New York, the West Indies and other
ports, the "Mercury," which sailed to New York, being particularly well known.
The ships were small and have often been referred to as "bathing machines" and
"coflSn ships." One of the well-known captains was John Goodridge who took a
great interest in America and at one time owned land in Albany, New York. There
was a packet memorial erected in Falmouth in 1899, and a few of the old packet-
men were on hand to witness the celebration. The inscription reads : —

To the memory of the gallant officers and men of H. M. Post Office
Packet Service sailing from Falmouth 1688-1852.

Also in the library is a list of the packets and their conmianders and the places to
which they sailed. There are also tablets in the Falmouth and Mylor churches.

I30 FALMOUTH, MASSACHUSETTS

Our chief interest, however, in connection with this English town is that Bartholo-
mew Gosnold, the first Englishman to found a colony in New England, sailed from
this port to America.

One of the objects of interest in Old Falmouth is Pendennis Castle which was
built by Henry VIII, and which has always been closely associated with the Killi-
grews, who were styled **the Lords of both fort and town'' and who were believed
to be invincible. A member of this family has been governor or owner of this
Castle for generations. When coaches first came in, one of the Killigrews made
the remark that it was '*more like flying than rideing." In this Castle the Prince
of Wales, afterwards King Charles II, took refuge in the ** King's room" and after
a long siege the stronghold was obliged to surrender.

Sir Walter Raleigh, who figured so prominently in the history of England during
this great epoch, was the first to draw attention to the possibilities of the harbour.
In his time only two houses stood in the town, which was then known as '* Smithick.'*
In later years, it was called *' Penny comequick," a word derived from the Celtic
Pen-y-cum, meaning "Head of the Vale," and ''wick," signifying the Saxon for
village. It was not, however, until the time of King Charles II that the town was
called Falmouth by Royal proclamation. The Russell and Rogers families were two
of the most important in the town, — Captain Rogers of the Royal Navy being
distinguished for gallantry in the year 1807.

In the old days there was a doctor in old Falmouth in whose diary has been
found the following amusing entry: '*Did this day administer to old Mrs. Jones
for her ague." The next day: ''called on Mrs. Jones and foimd she had died in
the night in much agony. N.B. Not use . . . again!"

There is also a Falmouth in Maine, from which the territory of the present
Portland was taken.

GLOUCESTER, MASSACHUSETTS

*' Gloucester is fair, yes wondrous fair
For artist's brush, or poet's pen,
Yet still its wealth beyond compare
Is in its race of sturdy men."

THE English names of city, town, stream and street in New England will
be lasting memorials to the love borne by the early settlers on these shores,
for the beautiful English towns which they had left behind them. Glouces-
ter is another example, for between the quaint old cathedral city of Gloucester,
England, and the picturesque seaport of Gloucester, Massachusetts, there still
exists this strong bond of kinship and friendliness. One of the first invitations
issued by the officials of our Gloucester on the occasion of the two hundred
and fiftieth anniversary of its incorporation, in 1892, was to the Lord Mayor and

GLOUCESTER, MASSACHUSETTS

•■ gifal 1/ Ike tsoik Annitmsiy of ilu T«

THE ALBUM PRESENTED IN 1891 BY THE MAYOR AND TOWN COUNCIL OK GLOUCES-
TER, ENGLAND, TO GLOUCESTER, MASSACHUSETTS, AND NOW IN
THE CITY HALL OF THE LATTER PLACE

Town Council of Gloucester, England. A beautifully embossed parchment reply
was received, expressing their appreciation of the invitation and regret at being
unable to accept it, the message being addressed to Mayor Asa G. Andrews of
Gloucester, Massachusetts, by Hon. James Piatt, Mayor of the English dty: —

' ' Dear Mr. Mayor, —

In common with all the members of our City Council, I appreciate very much the kind
invitation of your citizens to be present at the celebration of the two hundred and fiftieth
anniversary of Gloucester, Massachusetts. It would have given me great pleasure to
have been able to accept the honour and to participate in the celebration, but the time is
not convenient for me, as our musical festiv^ commences on September 6th, and I must
be present on the occasion. We have also just entered into the occupation of our new
GuQd Hall which takes up a good deal of my time for the present. It would have been
all the more pleasant to me, as I have some little knowledge of your city and experienced
the hospitaUty of one of your predecessors, Mayor Williams, in the summer of 1882.
Our City Council have resolved to send you an address of congratulation which they
will dgn, and also an album illustrating various objects of interest in our city, present
and past. Wishing you a very successful celebration and continued prosperity, I remain,"

GLOUCESTER, MASSACHUSETTS

EXTERIOR VIEW OF THE ALBUM PRESENTED BY GLOUCESTER, ENGLAND,
TO GLOUCESTER, MASSACHUSETTS

The album referred to in this letter was presented to Mayor Asa G. Andrews at the
Mayor's luncheon on August 2sth, by John Piatt, Esq., son of this Mayor Piatt of
Gloucester, England; the younger Piatt was present at the anniversary celebration
and toolc a prominent part in its observance. This beautifully illustrated album,
now in City Hall, is bound in Russia leather, and on the outside is a silver plate
on which are engraved the words : —

"Views of Gloucester, England, 1892."

Oa the inside of the cover is the following inscription: —

"Presented by the Citizens of Gloucester, England, to the Citizens of
Gloucester, Massachusetts, on the 350th anniversary of the incorpora-
tion of the town, August 1893."

^flik' ^^

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nittnpt^Jw lU SitU Slrm TrmI Cumfany Bj Gcaitt B. Braji

TABLET AT STAGE FORT PARK, GLOUCESTER, MASSACHUSETTS,
placed to commemorate the first English settlement there.

Hiltratiiit'' f- SMi Slmt TrmtlCamtanf By Ct«f 3. BftyUa

LARGER Vrew OF TABLET ON ROCK. AT STAGE FORT PARK, GLOUCESTER,
MASSACHUSETTS

134 GLOUCESTER, MASSACHUSETTS

During this anniversary week cablegrams were exchanged by the mayors of the
two cities, thereby further cementing the friendship that existed between the Bay
State city and its English counterpart. Mayor Piatt has several times visited our
Gloucester. Further correspondence ensued between the two towns, as shown
below: —

**At a quarterly meeting of the Council of the City of Gloucester, England, held at
the Guildhall, on Wednesday, the 28th day of July, 1909, James Bruton, Esq., Mayor,
in the chair, the following letter from Gloucester, Massachusetts, was read : —

Gloucester, Mass.
July 6, 1909.
The HonoRv\ble The Town Council,
Gloucester, England.

Gentlemen:

The preliminary announcement for Gloucester Day, Wednesday, August 4th, has
been forwarded to you. In behalf of the Committee I am pleased to extend you a cordial
invitation to visit Gloucester on that day as the guest of our people. As you will see, the
principal event will be the evening pageant and play. The Canterbury Pilgrims* is
based upon the Canterbury Tales of Geoffrey Chaucer, and must especially appeal to you.
The Pageant as it will be presented in our city will be the most ambitious so far attempted
in this country. We wish that it may be possible for you to honor us on this occasion,
and we can assure you that your welcome will be one that you will remember with pleasure.
Might we ask also for a word of greeting to be given at the Pageant in case you could
not accept our invitation.

With sincere regards,

Yours truly,

Fred W. Tibbets, Secretary,''

to which the following reply was sent: —

** Guildhall, Gloucester, England
23rd July, 1909.
Dear Sir,

I beg to acknowledge receipt of your letter of the 6th instant inviting the Council of
this city to visit Gloucester, Mass. as the guests of the Citizens on * Gloucester Day,'
August 4th, 1909, on the occasion of a Festival in honour of William Howard Taft, Presi-
dent of the United States; and I also thank you for the separate invitation sent to me
personally. ... I am quite siu:e the Members of the Council would very much like to
attend the Festival and that they would be specially interested in the Pageant and Play
*The Canterbury Pilgrims,' though they would need no such inducement to visit Glouces-
ter, Mass., if able to do so, as they are mindful of the friendship which has so long existed
between the two Cities and the very cordial welcome which has been extended to some old
Gloucestrians who have visited your City.

On behalf of the Members of the Council and my fellow citizens, I heartily thank you
for your very kind invitation, and I sincerely hope that the visit of the President of the
United States and the success of your Pageant and Play may cause 'Gloucester Day,*
1909, to be long remembered as a red-letter day in your City.

PORTUGUESIC CHURCH, GLOUCLSTKR, MASSACIIUSKTrS,

called "Our I.ady of Good Voyage." The Virgin Mary is holding in her a
Oier the door is shown another model uf a vessel. Once a year a stri-i
Crowning," which is describcil in the text.

136 GLOUCESTER, MASSACHUSETTS

Trusting that some Members of the Council may be able to visit your City on some
future occasion, and with the assurance that any of your Citizens will ever receive a cordial
welcome in this City, I am

Yours verv faithfullv,
Fred W. Tibbetts, Esq., James Bruton, Mayor,

Secretar}' 'Gloucester Day' Committee,
Gloucester, Mass."

In 1915, John J. Somes, Esq., the present City Clerk of our Gloucester, gladly
accepted the offer of Hon. W. J. Johnston-Vaughan, an ex-Mayor of Glouces-
ter, England, to send to our city a bell made in the old Gloucester Bell Foundry,
one of the most important foundries in the Kingdom in mediaeval times. This bell,
marked ^'lyyg'* and *'T. R.'' for the founder's name, now hangs in the corridor
of City Hall in our Gloucester with a suitable card below indicating how it came
into the possession of our city.

In 1899, Captain Howard Blackburn of our Gloucester, who had lost most of
his fingers on the fishing grounds, sailed alone a small boat about thirty feet long
from Gloucester, Massachusetts, to Gloucester, England, where he was received
by the officials and others of the town, among whom were the members of the firm
of Fielding and Piatt, the latter a relative of the Piatt who is described above as
having come over to our Gloucester to attend one of the celebrations here. Cap-
tain Blackburn carried with him a letter from the Mayor of our Gloucester and
while in the English Mayor's office his attention was called to a framed address
hanging in that ofl5ce which had been sent by Mayor William W. French of Glouces-
ter, Massachusetts, acknowledging receipt of the album sent to our city. The
captain was entertained at the Gloucester Theatre and over his box floated the
Stars and Stripes, and in the evening Yankee Doodle was played.

The first Englishman to plant his foot on the soil of Gloucester was Captain
John Smith who landed here in the year 1614, and called the point **Tragabig-
zanda" which was soon changed to Caf>e Ann by Prince Charles in honour of his
mother, Anne of Denmark. Captain Smith was much interested in the fishing
industry, and wrote home to England, **Is it not pretty sport to pull up two pence,
six pence, or twelve pence as fast as you can hale and veare a line?" Gloucester
was originally settled three years after the Plymouth Colony by a group of colonists
from Dorchester, England, who came there in the year 1623 to establish a fishing
industry. The Cape Ann town, however, was not incorporated until 1642, when
it was given the name of Gloucester either in honour of its first minister Richard
BIynman or in memory of the English city on the Severn from which many of the
pioneers had come that year; it is an interesting fact that many of the leading
citizens of the city at the present time are descendants of the original settlers, among
them being the families of Parsons, Sargent, Conant, Wonson, Babson and Tarr.
This small fishing settlement grew steadily until it is today the largest fishing port
in this country and it was quite fitting that a memorial should have been erected in

GLOUCESTER, MASSACHUSETTS 137

honour of these sturdy men who founded this industry in Gloucester. The me-
morial, which consists of a bronze tablet set in a huge boulder, was placed near
Half Moon Beach on Fishermen's Field, now called Stage Fort Park, near the place
where the early settlers landed, where the fishing stages were placed, where the
first house, that of Roger Conant, and the First Church were situated. The in-
scription on this beautiful tablet is as follows: —

On this site in

1623

A Company of Fishermen and Farmers from Dorchester, Eng.

under the direction of Rev. John White founded

THE MASSACHUSETTS BAY COLONY

From that time, the Fisheries, the oldest industry in the Commonwealth,
have been uninterruptedly pursued from this Port

HERE IN 1625 GOV. ROGER CONANT BY WISE DIPLOMACY

AVERTED BLOODSHED BET\\T:EN CONTENDING FACTIONS

ONE LED BY MYLES STANDISH OF PLYMOUTH

THE OTHER BY CAPT. HEWES

A NOTABLE EXEMPLIFICATION OF ARBITRATION

IN THE BEGINNINGS OF NEW ENGLAND

Placed by the citizens of Gloucester, 1907.

Two hundred and sixteen vessels were enrolled in the town in the year 1916, carry-
ing a total crew of about 3,000 men, and the value of the catch from the early days
to now totals over $500,000,000. Great, however, has been the sacrifice of human
life, as those know who have watched in vain for the return of their loved ones,
for between the years 1830 and 1916, four thousand five hundred and thirty-four
men were lost at sea from this port.

"On a sea in a night that with horror is crazed
With the torture and passion and fury of storms,
On an old fishing-craft that is beaten and dazed."

There are two very interesting and impressive ceremonies which take place in
Gloucester each year connected with the fishing industry which, we believe, are
unique in this country. One of these, known as **The Crowning," was inaugurated
two decades ago by Captain Joseph P. Mesquita, one of the foremost fishing cap-
tains of this noted fishing port. After having been delivered from extreme peril
at sea, he vowed that each year at the Feast of the Pentecost he would consecrate
himself to the Lord in gratitude for this deliverance by carrying out a ceremony
similar to that held for years in Portugal, from which country came many of the
ancestors of Gloucester's fishermen. He and the members of his crew donated
funds to purchase in Lisbon, Portugal, a silver crown surmounted by a dove to
be used in carrying out his vow. The ceremony usually begins with a procession
from his house to the Portuguese Catholic Church of Our Lady of Good Voyage
headed by Captain Mesquita bearing the crown. When the church is reached.

C.LOICKSTER, MASSACHUSETTS

|;MKNT at CiLOUCESTER, MASSACHUSETTS, 1613

I' iHiiilder at the rit;ht reccrds this fact.

, ; I: ii.i-ivi-il liy iliu |)ricst, and the Captain and other persons who have

. |...i . .1 it iilvr-i liir this ceremony by special prayers for the week preceding,

1)1.,. tiiiii I.. .1 |ilimr In-fore the altar where, after High Mass is celebrated, the
...I, •■, k-n.-nil oji the heads of those participating in the ceremony, solemn
m.L i...iiiy iilli-H'i! lu llie Holy Ghost for past blessings with prayers for a con-
i.i.iiii.ii i.i Mil liiviir. The dove surmounting the crown is a symbol of the
,.]y i.liiMi, juiil till- (Town is a reminder of Queen Elizabeth of Portugal, who at a
lu .ii glial liiiiiinit ill her country was SO charitable to the poor and ministered to
I II n.iuii Hiih hiich a holy spirit that she was later canonized. In further remem-
.iiK I 111 ifiit K"*"! wtirks of this Queen, many loaves of sweet bread are prepared,
'1 iJiesi-, aittT lii'ing blessed by the priest, are distributed among the people
i:.n:iil ai iho ceremony, each man, woman and child in the audience receiving
;ii.il, ( )iu; hflfilcd loaf of immense size is especially decorated for the celebrant.
I hi; othtT ceremony, which is held under the auspices of the Gloucester Fisher-
■ii'i liislilute, consists of a memorial service for the men of the city who have

gone down to the sea in ships
never to return. The school-
children with arms laden with
flowers proceed to the bridge
over the Squam River, just out-
side the city, and after an
appropriate service the flowers
are cast on the waters and are
carried out to sea, the beau-
tiful thought behind this cere-
mony being that the flowers
shall seek the unknown graves
of the \ictims of Neptune's
wrath.

GLOUCESTER, MASSACHUSE'lTS

(ILOUCKSTIIR. MASSArHlTSIVrrs

Many are the quaint superstitions which have arisen from Gloucester's famous
industry, for instance: fishermen believe that if they accidentally drop a cake of
ice overboard when preparing for a fishing trip, they will have good luck and a full
fare, but if they turn a hatch bottom up or drop it into the hold, they will meet
the direst misfortune throughout the voyage, and may consider themselves indeed
fortunate if they ever see land again. They will also tell you that
"Sunday sail, never fail;
Friday sail, ill luck and gale."

And so, in spite of the other flourishing industries that have sprung up in Gloucester,
it will always be as the quaint, picturesque old fishing port that we shall think of
her, and her name will bring to our mind, not the picture of her granite quarries
or her cement works, but a vision of the old docks lined with smartly rigged fishing-
craft and tramp steamers, and as we listen there comes to us the sound of
"The chimes a-strikinR, sweet and low.

While softlv, swtetlv, gently steals

The lullaby of drifting keels."

Our Gloucester is also known as the town where the name "schooner" was first
given to a vessel, the word being suggested by a bystander who exclaimed, "See
how she scoons!"

GLOUCESTER, MASSACHUSETTS

Frtm Tie Cily li GliHieisItT, Enilaiid.iy JetnJimnnti, Brumwlct XtaS.GhKcsltr.Eiiilaiid Pitltpthii by darf B. Brtyl

ANCIENT WEST GATE HOUSE AND BRIDGE, GLOUCESTER, ENGLAND,
as in the time of George ITL

Back of the town is an abandoned settlement named Dogtown, so called be-
cause of the fact that towards the end of the seventeenth century the women settlers
near the seacoast, for better protection, were sent several miles back into the country
with their dogs. Dogtown today, with its huge primeval boulders, its sunken cellars,
and its grass-grown streets, is a weird, romantic, and pathetic place, a world be-
witched, as one of the few visitors there expressed it. In this unique settlement
there were supposed to be many witches, the names of Judy Rhines and "Tammy"
Younger, the "Queen of the Witches," being the more often quoted in the Dog-
town legends. The latter was supposed to be able to bewitch a load of wood so
that it wouldn't stay on the ox team until part of it had been unloaded at her door,
and it was also claimed that she exacted a certain amount of fish when a vessel
came in or, otherwise, she would bewitch the next catch. This settlement, one
of the few ruined towns of America, so little known to either the visitor or the native,
and now completely deserted, was once the home of the ancestors of some of the
best citizens of Gloucester and Rockport.

Some of the settlers of our Gloucester as early as 1650 moved to and founded

GLOUCESTER, MASSACHUSETTS

A. B. Fikhn Kititi

COLLEGE COURT, GLOUCESTER, ENGLAND,
■howrine the Firat Sund4y-achool.

New London, Connecticut, and in 1737 were responsible for the settlement of Fal-
mouth, Maine, and a few years later of New Gloucester also in Maine.

Gloucester, England, is a dty ci great antiquity. It was first called "Caer
Gktui" before the Romans came to Britain, being the site of an important fort they
called "Glevum," which was changed by the Saxons to " Glow-ceastre," "Glewan-
cester," and "Glew-ceastre" from which the present name "Gloucester" is ap-
parently derived. The name was su[qx>sed to suggest "Fair City." Many relics
of the Roman days have been discovered, including coins of the Emperor Claudius,
who came to Britain and pushed his conquest toward the interior of the island.
A monastery was founded in 679 and in 1022 Bishop Wolstan of Worcester es-
tablished the Benedictine rule there. In 1541 the diocese of Gloucester was con-
stituted, with the Abbey Church for its Cathedral. From the early days, Glouces-
ter seemed to be marked for distinction. In 577 the Saxon King of Wessex
ci^tured the town, and in 836 the Danes possessed the place, they in their turn
being badly beaten in 918. In 1051, Edward the Confessor took up his residence
there and some years later William the Conqueror held Court at Gloucester, where
be usually spent his Christmas. In 1264, the King lost possession of the castte by

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GLOUCESTER, MASSACHUSETTS

THE DOCKS OF GLOUCESTER, ENGLAND

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fraud, some knights dressed as "woolmongers" being let in through the gates by
treachery. The town also figured in the wars of 1642 and 1643.

In 1734, there was only one stage coach between Gloucester and London, which
left oa Monday morning and arrived in the latter city on Wednesday evening,
and in these early days this was considered such an achievement that the words
"Gloucester Flying Machine" were painted on the coach doors in large letters.
It may be interesting to mention that several wills in the Registry begin, *' Whereas
I am about to take a journey to London, and whereas it is uncertain whether or
not I may live to return, I do therefore think it necessary to make my last will and

The Gloucester Cathedral, which is one of the finest in England, was dedicated
by the Bishops of Worcester, Rochester and Bangor. Gloucester also has an old
castle which dates back to the early days when such a fortress was necessary there
m account of the town being the key to South Wales. The city is situated on the
river Severn which b well described by these words :^

"Queen of the Western Rivers, Severn, hail!
The boast of Gloucester, glory of her vale.
Long may thy broad expanse of waters sweep
In rolling volumes to the kindred deepi"

144

GROTON, MASSACHUSETTS

GROTON, County Suffolk, England, is the ancestral home of our first
- Governor, John Winthrop, and on the south side of the church in the old
town is a stone tomb placed there as a memorial to Adam Winthrop, the
first of the name, who was Lord of the Manor of Groton. Here are buried Gover-
nor Winthrop's father, grandfather and possibly great-grandfather. The Winthrop
coat of arms is on one end of the tomb and the Latin inscription on the side now
partially obliterated translated into English reads as follows: —

Heaven the country Christ the way. Here lies the body of Adam
Winthrop, Esq., son of Adam Winthrop, Esq., who were Patrons of
this Church and Lords of the Manor of Groton. The above named
Adam, the son, married Anna the daughter of Henry Browne of Edwards-
ton by whom he had one son and four daughters. He departed this
life in the year of our Lord 1623, and of his own age 75. But Anna
his wife, died 1628. She also is buried here with him.

Blessed are the peacemakers; for they shall be called the sons of God.

Inside the church stands the old baptismal font and at the back of the church
are two tablets, one that was taken from the old tomb outside, probably to make
place for the long inscription quoted above. The inscription below came into the
possession of Hon. Robert C. Winthrop of Boston, Massachusetts, who returned
it to the English church. It is worded as follows: —

Here Lyeth Mr. Adam Wynthrop Lorde and Patron of Groton,
whiche departed owt of this worlde the IXth day of No-
vember, in the yere of oure Lorde Grod MCCCCCLXII.

The other tablet explains itself: —

The above plate removed at some remote
period from the grave in this chancel of Adam
Winthrop, Esq., First Lord of this Manor and Patron of
this church after the Reformation, and long in the
possession of his family in America, was restored in 1878 by
the Hon. Robert C. Winthrop of Boston in New England,
his descendant in. the eighth generation.

On the east end of the church is a large colored glass window placed there in
memory of Governor John Winthrop and presented to the church by some of the
Winthrop family in America, chiefly through the instrumentality of Hon. Robert
C. Winthrop. There is a double window on the south side of the church just
above the tomb which was placed there as a memorial to John Winthrop's first
and second wives, Mary Forth and Thomasine Clopton.

The house in which the (iovemor of Massachusetts and his son, the Governor
of Connecticut, lived is not standing today but its situation is well known. The

GROTON, MASSACHUSETTS 145

place was sold soon after John Winthrop left there to lead the great Puritan emi-
gration in 1630 to New England.

The town of Groton, Massachusetts, is directly indebted for its name to Deane
Winthrop, a son of Governor Winthrop, who was bom in the parish of Groton,
County Suffolk, England, in 1622. Our plantation of Groton, therefore, was closely
associated with the old home of Governor Winthrop and the birthplace of his son,
Deane, who was one of the original petitioners for the incorporation of our town.
Deane Winthrop hved in Groton, Massachusetts, for a number of years, dying at
Pullen's Point, now part of Winthrop. He was a brother of the first Governor
of Connecticut. Several of the Winthrop family living in Massachusetts today
have called their residences after the old town in England.

Our Groton is closely associated with the stage coach days and once contained
a number of typical New England taverns. Two of the best known stage coach
drivers, whose names have come down to us, are Aaron Corey and Horace George,
the latter being so obliging that he delivered messages, newspapers and packages
along the road; he was particularly popular with the boys of the town because he
would slow down in sleighing time to allow them to grab the straps on the back of
the coach and so enable them to ** ketch on behind," as it was then called. ** Phin "
Harrington was also another well-known driver and he was particularly noted for
his great speed; he was very small and the story is told of him that on cold nights
he was able to crawl into one of the large lamps on the side of the coach and warm
his feet. He held the reins of the Groton stages for forty years. In 1800, or there-
abouts, a stage left Boston every Wednesday, arriving in Groton in the afternoon,
and it was advertised to leave Groton each Monday morning, which gives some
idea of the lack of regular transportation in these early days. The charge for a
single trip was two dollars.

The Massachusetts town has not placed any memorials, as far as we can learn,
to any of the Winthrop family, but in 1879 the town erected a monument to com-
memorate the site of the first meeting house which was burned by the Indians,
from whom the town suffered much. Another memorial was also set up in the town
to the memory of the Longley family, ten of whom were either killed or taken into
captivity by the redskins. The earliest minister of this first parish was Rev. John
Miller of Cambridge College, England, who first served as assistant to Rev. Ezekiel
Rogers of Rowley, and who later was one of the first ministers at Yarmouth. The
original grant of the Massachusetts township was made in 1655 and this is the date
of the incorporation of the town. Groton Academy, now called Lawrence Academy
of Groton, was founded in 1 792 and has been helped many times by Amos Lawrence
and William Lawrence, this family being one of the most important in the history
of the town. Other well-known names connected with Groton are Morse, Blais-
dell, Blood, Ware, Woolson, Gove, Prescott, Bancroft, Waters, Mansfield, Green,
Eldredge, Williams, Nelson, Steams, Famsworth, BuUard and Hall. Colonel

GROTON, MASSACHUSETTS

William Prescott of Bunker Hill
fame was bom and lived in
the town. Groton School, also
in this town, is one of the best
known boarding schools in this
country.

There have been a few ex-
changes of presents between
the English town and its Ameri-
can namesake, the chief remem-
brance from the old town in
England being a photograph of
the church in old Groton, which
is framed together with small
pieces of stained glass from one
of the old windows in the
church, which was brought
over by the late Dr. Samuel
A. Green, a well-known resi-
dent of Groton and historian
of the town; it now hangs in
the Groton Public Library.

Groton, England, is also in-
directly responsible for the
naming of Groton, Connecti-
cut, in the year 1705, during
the Governorship of Fitz-John
Winthrop, out of respect for
the Suffolk home of his family.
There was also at one time a
Groton, New Hampshire, and
there is still in existence a Groton, Vermont, both of which were named by some
of the early settlers who came from our Groton; New York also claims a Groton,
which was likewise named after Groton, Massachusetts, and Groton, Connecticut,
there being also a Groton, Ohio, named for the Connecticut town, and one, too, in
South Dakota.

We quote a few lines of verse written by Mrs. James Gordon Carter of Groton,
although they give a rather exaggerated idea of the excitement at Groton Junction
station (now called Ayer). These verses would be better suited to this place at
the time of Camp Devens, the large New England training camp for troops during
the Great War:—

Fram a phebiirapli Kimlnai Frederic WiMimp. £i(.

WINTHROP FAMILY TOMB. GROTON CHURCH,

GROTON. ENGLAND, SHOWING THE WINTHROP

COAT OF ARMS ON THE FRONT END

Hereai

grandfather of Gover
Massachusetts. The inscription o

the side of the tomb is

GLOUCESTER, MASSACHUSETTS 137

honour of these sturdy men who founded this industry in Gloucester. The me-
morial, which consists of a bronze tablet set in a huge boulder, was placed near
Half Moon Beach on Fishermen's Field, now called Stage Fort Park, near the place
where the early settlers landed, where the fishmg stages were placed, where the
first house, that of Roger Conant, and the First Church were situated. The in-
scription on this beautiful tablet is as follows: —

On this site in

1623

A Company of Fishermen and Farmers from Dorchester, Eng.

under the direction of Rev. John White founded

THE MASSACHUSETTS BAY COLONY

From that time, the Fisheries, the oldest industry in the Commonwealth,
have been uninterruptedly pursued from this Port

HERE IN 1625 GOV. ROGER CONANT BY WISE DIPLOMACY

AVERTED BLOODSHED BET\\T:EN CONTENDING FACTIONS

ONE LED BY MYLES STANDISH OF PLYMOUTH

THE OTHER BY CAPT. HEWES

A NOTABLE EXEMPLIFICATION OF ARBITRATION

IN THE BEGINNINGS OF NEW ENGLAND

Placed by the citizens of Gloucester, 1907.

Two hundred and sixteen vessels were enrolled in the town in the year 1916, carry-
ing a total crew of about 3,000 men, and the value of the catch from the early days
to now totals over $500,000,000. Great, however, has been the sacrifice of human
life, as those know who have watched in vain for the return of their loved ones,
for between the years 1830 and 1916, four thousand five hundred and thirty-four
men were lost at sea from this port.

'^On a sea in a night that with horror is crazed
With the torture and passion and fury of storms.
On an old fishing-craft that is beaten and dazed.'*

There are two very interesting and impressive ceremonies which take place in
Gloucester each year connected with the fishing industry which, we believe, are
imique in this country. One of these, known as **The Crowning," was inaugurated
two decades ago by Captain Joseph P. Mesquita, one of the foremost fishing cap-
tains of this noted fishing port. After having been delivered from extreme peril
at sea, he vowed that each year at the Feast of the Pentecost he would consecrate
himself to the Lord in gratitude for this deliverance by carrying out a ceremony
similar to that held for years in Portugal, from which country came many of the
ancestors of Gloucester's fishermen. He and the members of his crew donated
funds to purchase in Lisbon, Portugal, a silver crown surmounted by a dove to
be used in carrying out his vow. The ceremony usually begins with a procession
from his house to the Portuguese Catholic Church of Our Lady of Good Voyage
headed by Captain Mesquita bearing the crown. When the church is reached.

148 GROTON, MASSACHUSETTS

Squeezed as in nightmare or a witch hug,
In comes the upper train from Fitchburg!

All while this host of ills you're summing,
* Look out ! the Boston train is coming I '
And now, alas! the plot so thickens.
The heart of the lone maiden sickens.

*This way. Miss,' some one cried, — Mon't hurry;
No use in making such a flurry ! '

*Take care, there!' *Here, that's my trunk, porter!'
*Look out! I'll make you one head shorter!'

* Where do you go, — to Fitchburg? Worcester? '
'What's in this basket, John?' *A rooster!'
*Here, take this box!' The cars are starting.
And through the air John's legs are darting.

A woman calls, * Hannah, where's Peter?'

* Munching an apple. ' ^ What an eater !'
'There, now, the baby's set to crying;
For mercy's sake ! what's father buying? '
'That's the w^rong car, — get out, Susanna!'
'Don't cry — where did you hurt you, Hannah?'
'Where's Mr. Stiles? such work, I never!

I wish he'd come, he looks so clever.
Children, get in! the bell is ringing!
Why, do hear Mr. Fairbanks singing!'
My Muse, alas! see her wings flutter;
Panting, one warning word she'll utter:
'Beware,' she says without compunction,
'Beware, at night, of Groton Junction!'"

There was an odd character in Groton who had lost her husband whereupon a
number of changes had to be made around the place, including the removal of the
pigsty; the old lady was particularly downcast when this was demolished as she
declared it was the only memorial of her husband she had left.

Groton, England, is an andent town and owing to its geographical position
played an important part in early English history. In the days of Norman rule
this part of the country was studded with castles and fortresses, the greater part
of which were in the vidnity of Groton, which in Domesday Book is called Grotena.

Samuel A. Green, Esq., in an address delivered at Groton, Massachusetts, in
1905, on the two hundred and fiftieth anniversary of the American town, speaks
thus of Groton, England: —

"During my boyhood I always had a strong desire to visit Groton in England,
which gave its name to this town and indirectly to six other towns in the United
States. Strictly speaking, it is not a town but a parish; and there are technical
distinctions between the two. ... All my previous knowledge in regard to the

GROTON, MASSACHUSETTS

Fram pttli i» On aOtOin ^ Uti. R. C. Wintkrtf

EAST WINDOW, GROTON CHURCH, GROTON,
ENGLAND, 1875,

placed there ia memory of John Winthrop, leader of
the gTMt Puritan emigration to New England in i6ja,
Gnt Governor o[ Massachusetts, and founder of Boston,
Massachusetts, by his descendants in America, at the
suggestion of Hon. R. C. Winthrop of Boston, Massa-
chusetts.

KimlMai Uti. R. C. WinOnt

SOUTH WINDOW IN GROTON CHURCH,
GROTON, ENGLAND, 1880,

placed over the Winthrop tomb, to the memory
of the two wives of Governor John Winthrop,
both of whom are buried in the chancel of the
church. This window is the gift of Hon. R. C.
Winthrop.

place was limited to the fact that it lay in the county of Suffolk, near its southern
border. After a somewhat close study of the Railway Guide, I left London in the
month of October, 1854, for Sudbury, which is the only town of considerable size
in the immediate neighborhood of Groton. . . . From Sudbury I drove in a dog-
cart to Boxford, where I tarried over night at White Horse Inn, and in the morning
walked over to Groton, less than a mile distant. This place, the object of my
pilgrimage, I fowid to be a typical English village of the olden time, very small
both in territory and population, and utterly unlike any of its American namesakes.
... On reaching the end of my trip I called at once on the Rector, who received
me very kindly and offered to go with me to the church, which invitation I readily
accepted. He expressed much interest in the New England towns bearing the name

ISO GROTON, MASSACHDSETTS

of Groton, and spoke of a \isit made to the English town a tew yean pieviotisly,
by the Honorable Robert C. Winthrop, of Boston, which gave hhn mudh {rieasuie.
We walked over the grounds of the old manor, once bekmging to John Winthrop,
first Governor of Massachusetts; and Groton Place, the lesidenoe of the loid of the
manor at that time, was pointed out, as well as a solitaiy mulbeny tree, which
stood in Winthrop's garden, and is now the last vestige of the spot. ... I re-
member with special pleasure the attentions of Mr. R. F. Swan, post*masttf of
Boxford, who took me to a small school of little children in that parish, where the
teacher told the scholars that I had come from another Groton across the broad
ocean. He also kindly made for me a rou^ tracing of the part of the parish in
which I was particularly interested; and as I had left the inn at Badord wlien he
called he sent it by private hands to me at the Sudbury railway staticm. All these
little courtesies and many more I recollect with great distinctness, and they add
much to the pleasant memories of my visit to the ancestral town, which has such
a numerous progeny of municipal descendants in the United States."

The English home of the Winthrop family lies midway between Hadleigh and
Sudbury in the County of Suffolk. It was formerly the lordship of the Abbot of
Bury and was granted in 1544, soon after the dissolution of the Monasteries, to
Adam Winthrop, Esq., and this grant may be seen in the Patent Rolls of the Public
Record office in London.

HARTFORD, CONNECTICUT

MAYOR and Mrs. Louis R. Cheney of Hartford, Connecticut, and several
friends accepted the invitation of Hertford, England, to attend the one
thousandth anniversary of the rebuilding of the old Borough, and we
believe that his own words best describe his visit, the celebration, and the won-
derful reception given to him and the other Hartfordites who accompanied him: —

''When I went to England in 1914, to attend the Hertford Millenary Celebration, I
little imagined what was before us. It was during my term as Mayor, in response to several
most urgent invitations, that I accepted, and our party sailed for Southampton about the
20th of June.

We were met at the Waterloo Station, in London, by the Mayor, Town Clerk, and a
councillor of Hertford, who escorted us to our hotel and told us of the honors in store for
us. The first one was that we were to be invited to dine and sleep at the Marquess of
Salisbury's as he was their Lord High Steward. The invitation duly arrived from Lady
Salisbury, and we accepted without any imnecessary delay.

We arrived at Ha^eld House, a party of six, in time for tea and were most cordially
greeted by Lady Salisbury, who had visiting her. Miss Balfour (sister of the Hon. Arthur
James Balfour), Lord and Lady Eustace Cedl (brother of the late Marquess, the great
statesman and diplomat and father of the present Lord Salisbury), Lady Mary Cecil and
Lady Arran.

HARTFORD, CONNECTICUT 151

The exercises, on the following day, were conducted on the Castle Grounds, before
an audience of about three thousand people. After the presentation ceremonies, I was
given the freedom of the platform (unexpectedly to me at that time) and presented the
congratulations and best wishes of our Hartford to the Mother City. The credit of naming
our Hartford after their Hertford was attributed to John Haynes, the first elected
Gov. of Connecticut. I was very proud to claim him as an ancestor on that occasion.
He came from Essex, near Hertfordshire, with Rev. John Hooker, and Samuel Stone,
and was very prominent, owning quite an estate of his own over there.

After the exercises in the open, we sat down to a bountiful luncheon (about one hun-
dred of us) at which the nobiUty was largely represented. We drank to the king's health
standing, and when Lord SaUsbury toasted Mr. Balfour, the latter broke down, and it
was very touching to see a great statesman so moved. I was then toasted and got out of
the dilemma as best I could. We next went to the castle grounds to see a wonderful
pageant, setting forth the history of Hertford, up to Queen Elizabeth's time. As a
delicate attention to our party they sang the words of * America ' to the tune of * God Save
the King' — a custom of our own.

The pageant was given every day for a week. I was greatly honored by being made
President of the Pageant on one of the following days. On this occasion the deputy
mayoress was presented with a bouquet of flowers by the school children. All of the
townspeople were most cordial and showed their appreciation of our coming so far to
participate in their celebration by seeing that many doors were opened to us, which are
generally closed to the usual visitor."

It is particularly interesting to note that Mr. Cheney was descended from John
Hajnies who had come from Essex, near Hertfordshire, and who named the Con-
necticut town " Hartford " in honour of his friend Samuel Stone of Hertford, England,
who accompanied Hooker on the pilgrimage from Massachusetts, as shown in the
cut on page 152. These three men organized the First Church of Hartford
and founded the colony on the banks of the Connecticut River, first calling it
"Newtowne" after the town they had left in Massachusetts (now called "Cam-
bridge")* Hajnies later became the first Governor of this little Connecticut
colony.

Among the interesting things brought back from England by Mayor Cheney
was the photograph of the baptismal record on parchment in All Saints Church,
which gives an accoimt of the baptism of Samuel Stone in these words: —

"July 1602. Samuell, soone of Jhon Stones was baptyzed 30th."

In parentheses under the photograph appears this note: —

"One of the founders of Hartford, Conn. U.S.A. 1636."

Another interesting relic in the old church is the baptismal font which was used to
baptize Stone.

The Mayor of the Connecticut town made several speeches, which he has been
too modest to give us but we feel sure that he did justice to the occasion. His
visit was of particular interest both to England and America for the reason that
within the last nine years, our Hartford has had a Mayor who was a lineal descend-
ant of one of the principal personages connected with the founding of the town, and

HARTFORD, CONNECnCUT

M

1

Snilnd. Nfw yori and New Jeri

REV. THOMAS HOOKER AND HIS CONGREGATION ON THEIR LONG JOURNEY FROM
NEWTOWNE {NOW CAMBRIDGE) TO FOUND HARTFORD, CONNECTICUT

another Mayor who could trace his ancestry back to Hooker. Americans will also
be interested in the number of Hadhams in the vicinity of the borough of Hertford
which reminds them of the variations of the same name in New England.

Hartford, Connecticut, received the following message, sent over after Colonel
Cheney's return home: —

"Borough of Hertford

in the

County of Hertford

England.

At a Quarterly Meeting of the Coimcil of
the Borough of Hertford, duly convened and
holden at the Town Hall, Hertford, on
Wednesday, the 39th day of July, 1914, at
6 o'clock in the evening, precisely.
It was Unanimously Resolved: —

That the Members of this Council have received with the utmost
pleasure an Address from the Mayor, Alderuen and Counciluen of
the City of Hartford, in the State of Connecticut and United
States of America, on the occasion of the celebration of the
Millenary of the rebuilding of this town by King Edward the
Elder, and desire to return their sincere thanks for the kindly greetings
and good wishes therein expressed.

TuEY most earnestly reciprocate the hope that the cordial and
friendly relations that exist between this Borough and its Offspring
beyond the seas may long continue.

They further desire to express theu- intense gratification that the
Deputy Mayor and Mayoress (Cokmel and Mrs. Cheney) and a number

ALL SAINTS CHURCH, HERTFORD, ENGLAND

MAYOR, ALDERMEN AND COUNCILMEN OF HERTFORD, ENGLAND

154 HARTFORD, CONNECTICUT

of the Citizens of Hartford, Connecticut, were able to attend the
Millenary Celebration, and sincerely trust that their guests will carry
home with them the happiest recollections of their visit, and of the
welcome they received.

The Corporate Seal of the Mayor,

Aldermen and Burgesses of the

Borough of Hertford, England, was

hereunto affixed by William Frampton W. F. ANDREWS

Andrews, Mayor, in the presence Mayor

of Alfred Baker,

Town Clerk.^'

In the offices of the Town Clerk in Hertford Castle hang the photographs of
the Common Council of our Connecticut city, which were presented about 1904
by Mayor William F. Henney. We also understand that in 1891 Americans sub-
scribed a considerable sum of money to build St. Nicholas Hall in the Parish of St.
Andrew's which adjoins All Saints Church, the church of Samuel Stone. At this
time a fete was held in Hertford, which was attended by the American Ambassador,
who referred to the fact that when his native city, Chicago, was destroyed by fire
it was from England that the first help came. Some of the prominent manufact-
urers of the Connecticut city sent over articles to help make the occasion a success.
Many views of Hartford were presented to the Marchioness of Salisbury, when
she opened the fete.

There has been much speculation and curiosity as to why the English town is
spelled with an "e" and the Connecticut town with an "a." Colonel Cheney
tells us that our town was not misspelled, and claims that it is the English town
that really has made the error. In proof of this assertion he explains that the seal
of the English town, upon which appears the figure of a hart, or deer, has on the
margin the word "HArtforde," the additional **e" being the old English form of
spelling. Another proof perhaps is the fact that the English town is always pro-
nounced as if it were spelled "Harford." It is also interesting to note that in an
accoimt of Hertford Castle published in 1589, the name is spelled with an "a" in-
stead of an **e," which should prove to us pretty conclusively that it is the mother
town that has strayed from the correct method of spelling, while her child, our
town, adhered to the original and proper spelling.

Hertford was four hundred years older than the thousand years for which this
celebration was held, being inhabited by a sturdy race of Britons before the Saxons
conquered the country. It was a flourishing town when the great Saxon king,
Alfred, allowed the cakes of the peasant's wife to bum, thereby enduring a scolding
by the angry woman, who, of course, did not know she was tongue-lashing her
sovereign.

Hertford is situated at the meeting point of three rivers, the Maran, the
Beane, and the Lea, and as far back as the time of the Caesars there was a British

PORT HILL, HERTFORD, ENGLAND

it

I

^^^^E5fl|

vV^'I^^I^S M

^1

i

l^'^'swfe^^. _. -_

~ 'i - ^^<^ ^ — .

1

By Kir Gvt' Lum Waltw. D.D.

I * SuJtrx ^ lilt run CAhkjI !■ Barlftri

MONUMENTS IN THE CENTER CHURCH BURYING GROUND IN HARTFORD,

CONNECTICUT, TO THE MEMORY OF ITS EARLY SETTLERS

The Haynra, Hooker and Stoae memorials are on the right.

IS6

HARTFORD, CONNECTICUT

settlement on this site, which was at that time called "Durocobriva," meaning
"conflux of waters." The situation was one to attract the East Saxons, who
renamed the town "Hertsforda," and it became the residence of the Saxon kings.
Others claim that Hertford, which gives its name to the county as well as to the
borough and market town, is named for " Ford of the Harts," while other historians
assert that its name is derived from the Saxon word "Herudford," meaning "Red
Ford," The river Lea connected Hertford with London before the days of the rail-
road, and this may be the reason that the National Synod was held there in 673
by King Ecfried, sometimes spelled Egfrid, which is claimed to have been the
precursor of the English Parliament. The Saxons in their turn were subjected to
the attacks of the Danes and in the reign of Alfred the town was raided and burned
to the ground; but the great Saxon king built a dyke to keep out the tides,
thereby preventing the Danes from using the Lea, as they previously had done, and
by this act he saved the town.

Edward the Elder built Hertford Castle in the year 906, and after the conquest
the Normans rebuilt it, surrounding it with a moat and walls of steel and flint,
some of which remain to this day. It is especially interesting to find that the first
Governor of the Castle appointed by William the Conqueror was an ancestor of
Governor Haynes and Mayor Cheney of our Hartford. This post was afterwards

HERTFORD CASTLE, HERTFORD, ENGLAND

HARTFORD, CONNECTICUT

157

ffvea to one of the Norman barons who had distinguished himself against the
English, and as a reward the castle was bestowed upon him, remaining the property
erf his family for years. It may also be of interest to mention that in this old castle
were married Isabel of Castile and Prince Edward Flantagenet, the fourth surviving
son of King Edward III. When Henry VIII ascended the throne the castle was
in a dilapidated condition, but as he desired it for a future residence, he gave orders
to have it restored. Both Queen Mary and Queen Elizabeth spent much of their
girlhood there, their presence being still recalled by a path called the "Queen's
Bench Walk." Another fact of historical interest is that during the plague in
London both in 1563 and 1589 Parhament sat in Hertford Castle. In 1628 it was
granted by King Charles to William Cecil, the second Earl of Salisbury, and has been
in the family ever since. Charles Lamb has been closely associated with Hertford-
shire, and sometimes we hear it mentioned as "Lamb's County." An old proverb
asserts that

"He who buys a house in Hertfordshire,
Pays three-quarters for the air."

The name of Morgan seems to have been distinguished in Hertford, as well as
in Hartford, for we read that there was a Robert Morgan in the English city who
was granted by the King special permission "that henceforth during his life
in the presence of us, or our heirs, or in the
presence of any other, or others, whomso-
ever, at any times hereafter be covered with
his hat on his head, and not take off or lay
aade his hat from his head, for any reason
or cause, against his will or pleasure." He
undoubtedly bestowed great favors upon the
town, as his namesake, J. P. Morgan, has
bestowed upon our dty.

If we turn again to the American city we
find that Hooker, with Stone (who it will be
remembered was bom in Hertford) , first came
to Newtowne from England on the invitation
of certain Newtowne settlers who had in
England attended worship with the Rev. Mr.
Hoc^r. They sailed for this country in
i6x% and when they arrived their friends . , ^, . , , ... - „ _., _.

'>•' , • , - - ^ record the assistance of citizens of Hartford,

said that theu " three great necessities were Connecticut, who subscribed funds to help re-

_™. .....^i:.,^ f«- »1.~. U^A n^H,^ r^, «k«;.- build this hall, which is in the Parish of St.

now SUppUed, for they had CoUon for their Andrew, adjoining that of AU Saints, in the

clothing, Booker for their fishing, and Stone church of which parish can still be seen the

. " , „ ,. „ ,, , 1 baptismal register of Samuel stone, who was

for their building." Monuments have been one of the foundera of Hutford, Connecticut.

TfflS TABLET IS PLACED IN ST. NICH-
OLAS HALL IN HERTFORD, ENGLAND,

158

HARTFORD, CONNECTICUT

pl&ced in Hartford over the graves of Hooker, Stone and Haynes and we give a
[MCture of them on page 155.

It may be interesting to Harvard men to record that as early as 1644 a small
colony in Connecticut "took measures consemeing the mayntenaunce of scollers
erf Cambridge."

HARWICH, MASSACHUSETTS

A PICTURESQUE Cape Cod village, with here and there a velvety, green
lawn bordered with whitewashed stones; trim gravel paths leading up to
scrupulously neat white cottages, where a few gray-haired sea captains
Btill pace up and down the porches, as they once trod the decks of the old ships
in the days that are past. — such is the little town of Harwich, Massachusetts. Far
across the ocean where the rivers Stour and Orwell meet in old England is the
ancient borough of Harwich, called in olden times Har-wic, from which the New
England town receives its name. By whom or under what circumstances the
name was given will always be a matter of conjecture, but it was probably sug-
gested by Patrick Butler, one of the residents of the Massachusetts village, who is
Baid to have walked all the way to Boston to obtain the act of incorporation, which
was granted on September 14, 1694. Certain it is that there must have been some
of those early settlers for whom the old maritime town in Essex County, En^and,
held tffnder memories, and *hi« Hnfc which bound the old England bvwn to the

one in New England waa straig
and continued so through all
these many years.

In 1907, Charles M. Rob-
bins, Esq., a native of our
Harwich, made a trip to Eu-
rope, and while in F.nglitT>d he
visited the andent borou^ for
which his native town waa
named, and purchased numer-
ous prints and pictures of old
Harwich, which he presented,
on his return, to the Massa-
chusetts town; some of these
are now hangmg on the walls
of the-town de^'s office, vliile
others are in the Chile library
atWflit&rwidL

FLAGSTONE FROU A STREET IN HARWICH,
ENGLAND,
DOW placed Id the p

z6o HARWICH, MASSACSUSETIS

Mr. Robbins also visited the borou^oflfciah<rfHiMwidi,Rn|^and,indii^^
Mayor, the Clerk, and the Superintendent of PaMic Wocks, and Jnthnftted to them
that he would appreciate some siiitable souvenir iduch he sit|^ piesent to Q^^
Massachusetts, in memory of its worthy namriakr acroas the aea. He pereuaded the
Superintendent of Public Works to ship to Harwich, Masaadrasetts, a flagrtone that
had been in the sidewalk in front of the Dty Hall ton over two hundred years, but
which, owing to its position in a jog, or corner, was only sUf^tly worn. Upon its
arrival at the Cape Cod town, this stone was prapedy inscribed by Mr. Henry T.
Crosby, the marble worker of Harwich, and was placed in the sidewalk in front of the
Exchange Building, owned by the town, which prominent position it now ooo^ies.

Like the English Harwich, the Cape Cod town is a popular seaside resort; and
for those who appreciate history as well as fresh air, there are also to be found in eadi
town numerous historical associations. Off the coast of Harwich, Eng^d, Alfred's
fleet encountered the Danes in the year 885, and many years afterwards, in 1666,
there, too, occurred a memorable engagement between the Dutch and the English.

Less stirring, but no less interesting to lovers of history, are the associations
which cluster about the Bay State town. The territory comprised in the town-
ship, with the exception of a large tract on the southwest, is a part of the original
section selected by the '' Purchasers or Old Comers" of the Plymouth colony, and
granted to them upon the surrender of the patent in 1640. Across the mouth of
the inlet of Muddy Cove, or Long Cove, as it is sometimes called, where the Wading
Place bridge connects the towns of Harwich and Chatham, the Indians used to
ford the river on their way from one town to the other, and near the boundary
stone where the tide gato has been built stood their weir. A short distance north-
west of the mouth of the cove is the sito of the farm where lived Micah Ralph,
the last full-blooded Indian in Harwich. The first settler in the town of Harwich,
as far as is known, was Gershom Hall, who was bom in our Barnstable in 1648
and who came from the territory now called North Dennis; as a farmer, millwright
and lay preacher he was a prominent person in the colony.

The Massachusetts town was not destined to compete as an industrial center
with her English prototype, where shipbuilding and fishing are carried on quite
extensively and where large cement works are also located. During the early
part of the nineteenth century the manufacture of marine salt was an important
industry at Harwich, Massachusetts, but in time the decline in the price of salt
and the increase in the cost of the works unfortimately led to the abandonment
of the business. At one period, however, in her history, the Cape Cod town had
quite a reputation as a fishing center, and her sturdy sons became expert in the
use of the harpoon on their whaling expeditions. At first a large number of whales
were to be found in the vicinity of the Cape, and small boats were employed in
the pursuit of them, but later, as they withdrew to more peaceful feeding grounds,
the whalemen went aftor them in sloops, and finally schooners were used. Cod and

HARWICH, MASSACHUSETTS

HARWICH. ENGLAND

mackerel fishing each enjoyed a period of prosperity, but now they, too, have declined.
The cultivation of cranberries is now the principal industry of the town. The god-
dess of industry has tarried at this picturesque town, and passed on, leaving to
Harwich only the memory of those glorious days when her ships sailed the
many seas.

The harbour of Harwich, Essex, England, is large enough to hold a htmdred
ships of war, and is almost the only feature of this town. It is now the perma-
nent headquarters of the Admiral of Patrols and of the Torpedo Destroyer Flotillas
operating in the North Sea, with a range of action extending from Dover to the
Firth of Forth. The town itself is of little interest, though to the stranger some
of its narrow streets and wooden houses would appeal strongly. The Old Cups
Hotel is interesting, its oak-panelled rooms reminding one of its age. There is
still shown the room in which the great Lord Nelson slept during his vi^ts there,
but it is, alas ! fast passing into decay.

Just south of the town is Beacon Hill, upon which is situated one of the most
powerful forts along the coast, but so artfully concealed that the viator might
easity pass by without knowing it. Strangely enough, there is a Bunker's Hill

i62 HARWICH,

a mile out from the town, but it is only a nicknanie taken from the name of a
man who kept a public house at its foot.

The Saxon Chronicles mention a battle fought near Harwich in 885 between
King Alfred the Great's fleet and sixteen Danish Aips. OrweD was the name of
the town in bygone times, but the sea washed it entirdy away, and iqxm. its ruins
Harwich rose. Being the only harbour of refuge between the Thames and the
Hiunber, it naturally became an important place for shq[q[xing. Edward 11 guve
the first charter to Harwich in 13 18. It was his successor, Edward Illy who sailed
from this port in 1340 with a fleet of 260 sail to attack the French fleet at Sluys
near Flanders, where he gained the great victory.

The most notable event, however, in the history of the town was the German
capitulation which began on November 20, 1918, with the surrender to Admiral
Tyrwhitt of over two himdred German U-boats. These vessels that were to
cause the destruction of England, found a safe anchorage in Harwich Harbour.

Queen Elizabeth inmiortalized the name of Harwich by calling it "Happy-go-
lucky Harwich," lucky indeed, for although the Germans made many raids upon the
town, only twice did a bomb fall there, and fortunately neither of them exploded.

Dovercourt, the "West End" of the Borough of Harwich, is fast becoming a
summer resort. The famous diarist Pepys once represented Harwich in Parliament.

HINGHAM, MASSACHUSETTS

BETWEEN the years 1633 and 1639 a good many persons migrated to
Hingham, which was then called Bare Cove. A few families came over here
in 1633 and took up land on Planter's Hill, now part of the Brewer estate
and known as "World's End Farm." This strip of land is situated across the water
in front of the late Hon. John D. Long's residence. Several followed in 1634, but
the largest number came over in 1635, most of them from old Hingham, Norfolk,
arriving in Charlestown, after an extended voyage; they then came down the har-
bour in an open pinnace into the small stream which runs by the mill-dam and
through the town, almost up to the present jail, and started their settlement
near the foot of the present Ship Street. On this historic spot is a memorial

which reads as follows: —

In grateful memory of

Reverend Peter Hobart and

that company of English men and women

who founded the town of

Hingham

landing near this spot in September

163s

Erected by Old Colony Chapter

Daughters of the American Revolution

1913

Fnm n M frittt In jHniciiion p/ Du Slali Stral TrKil Caifan/

THE OLD MEETING HOUSE, OFTEN CALLED "THE OLD SHIP CHURCH," HINGHAM,

MASSACHUSETTS. ERECTED 1681

The MemoruJ Tower in honour of the early settlers stands on the right of the Old Meeting House.

imI Xa. BauibaK Pai§

HINGHAM, ENGLAND

HINGHAM, MASSACHUSETTS

PhottviVnill At Shu SlrtH Trml CimUmy KMtmt Rn. Laaii C. Can^h tni gm. 0h(Um l>d|i

ROOM ON SECOND FLOOR OF THE HINGHAM MEMORIAL TOWER,
pUced there in memory of Rev. Peter Hobart, first minister of tliis KtUemcDt aod ti Mttler here in 1635.
He was borD in Hinglum, EJiglAod, in i6ai. The inscription over the mantlepiece it given in the tezL
Tie desk and chair on the left were brought over from old Hingham by Rev. Louis C. Cornish and date
from about i6jo. Thechair on the right was brought from old Hingham, probably in 1635, by a member
of the Lincoln family, in which it continued in unbroken succes»on until recently presented to the HinKhun
Hemorial. The Lincoln family of Hingham, Maasachuaetts, aic descendants of the Llncolns of Hin^iam,
" '"" ' Abraham Lincoln was of the Hingham family.

Mr. Gushing, the third town clerk, gives a record "of such persons as came out
of the town of Hingham, and the towns adjacent, in the county of Norfolk, in
the kingdom of England, into New England, and settled in Hingham." He also
stated that "The whole number who came out of Norfolk, chiefly from Hingham
and its vicinity, from 1633 to 1639, and settled in Hingham, was two himdred and
six." There is no question but that this town was named after the town of the
same name in England where most of these early settlers had lived. Among the
earliest to move to the new town were Peter Hobart, the first minister, and Robert
Peck, who were the most prominent men of th«r time in the plantation; also among
other early comers were the Lincolns, Herseys, Cushings, Jacobs, Wilders, Burrs,
Thaxters, Spragues, Chubbucks, Andrews, Bates, Stoddards, Stowells, Gardners,

HINGHAM, MASSACHUSETTS

165

Beak, Towers, Leavitts, Ripleys, Joys, Marshes, Lanes and Whitons. On a hill
across the creek opposite this early settlement were established earthworks and a
fort and the remains can be seen today in the center of the old cemetery. On top
of this hill is the First Meeting House, whose congregation was gathered in 1635
in an earlier meeting house, and later moved to the present building which was
erected in 1681. This meeting house is the oldest place of public worship now in
use in the United States and is well worthy of a visit. On entering one notices
particularly the bell rope which hangs down in the center of the church, just as
it did in the early days of the plantation, one of its functions being to give warn-
ing of any Indian attacks. In a comer
of the church are still preserved the old
pews, numbered 6, 37, 46, 47, and 51,
which were occupied by the early
church-goers, and many of the families
of the original settlers still own pews in
the church. There is a bronze tablet
near the pulpit which gives the min-
isters' names from the time of Rev.
Peter Hobart in 1635 to the present,
there having been only eleven preachers
in all these many years. Nearby is a
carving of St. Peter's keys on a block
of wood takta from the church in
Hingham, England, and sent to our
Hingham; it dates back to the Refor-
mation. The church also uses the bap-
tismal bowl which, according to the
best authorities, dates prior to the year
1590, and which was brought over by
the early comers. One should be sure
to climb to the top of the church and see
the curious curved rafters which sup-
port the roof and which are shaped like
the ribs of a ship: it b on account of
these unusual old beams, that the meet-
ing house has been called the Old Ship
Church. This form of building was
commonly known in England as a ship
church and, from being one of many,
it is now the only survivor of the type
in this country.

REAR VIEW OF THE TOWER IN HINGHAM,
MASSACHUSETTS,

eteiv uie<

_. _ . ctea by the people

01 our Hingham and deaceodMits of the Kttlen on
the occasioa of the two hundred and Kventy-fiftb
umiveraary of the foundina of the town, ancl dedi-
cated to the memory of me eariy settlers. Rev.
Louis C. Cornish was chiefly responsible for the
building of this campanile. The mounting-block,
sent from Hingliam, England, is on the ground floor.
In the belfry sre bells, copies of those m Hi n g h a m ,
England, and other nearby towns in Norfolk County,
England. Oo the second story o( the tower is the
Hobart room abown in anotlier cut.

i66 fflNGHAM, MASSACHUSETTS

The Massachusetts Hingham has had closer relations with its English mother
than have most of the other American towns which have been named for English
ones. On the two hundred and seventy-fifth anniversary of the founding of the
new Hingham, a memorial tower was erected in memory of the first settlers by
public subscription and through the efforts of Rev. Louis C. Cornish. It is situated
at the entrance of the old burying ground where many of the forefathers are buried
and adjacent to the Old Ship Church. In the belfry of this tower are eleven
bells made in London, which are copies of the bells in churches at Hingham, Nor-
wich, and several other adjacent towns in the county of Norfolk, England. In the
lower part of the tower is the following inscription: —

This Memorial
erected by public subscription on the 275th anniversary of the settlement

commemorates the men and women

who for the sake of liberty and at great sacrifice

came out from Hingham, England, and towns adjacent

between the years 1633 and 1638

and on the edge of the wilderness

established this free plantation of New Hingham

1633 Ralph Smith, Nicholas Jacob, Thomas Lincoln,
Edmund Hobart, Theophilus Cushing, Edmund Hobart, Sr.,

Joshua Hobart, Henry Gibbs
etc., etc.

Also in this tower is one of the most interesting relics in new Hingham, the
Hingham Stone, which was sent by old Hingham to its namesake here as an anni-
versary gift, and which is supposed to be the only stone that could be found in
Hingham, England. The following inscription in the tower describes this stone : —

The Hingham Stone

long used as a mounting block

is believed to have stood

for centuries on the Village Green

and to have been known

to the Forefathers before the migration.

It was given by Hingham, Norfolk

to Hingham, Massachusetts

for this Memorial

and was presented to the Town

on October 9, 191 1 by the
Right Hon. James Bryce, D.C.L.
Ambassador for Great Britain
to the United States.

On the second story of the tower is a room dedicated to the memory of Peter Hobart,
and over the fireplace in the comer are inscribed on a panel the following
words: —

HINGHAM, MASSACHUSETTS 167

To the Memory of the Revd. Peter Hobart, M.A. Bom in Old
Hingham 1602 Died in New Hingham 1678 Educated in Cambridge
University, Lecturer and Preacher in English Parishes, he emigrated to
America in 1635, and became one of the Founders, and the First Min-
ister of this free Plantation. Leader in religious and civil affairs, cour-
ageous champion of the rights of man, for forty three years Preacher of
the Word of God on this far Edge of the Wldemess, he walked by faith,
and left upon this community & upon New England the impress of his
high ideal of reverent freedom, which endures & shall endure " Here
shall the light of memory be kindled."

This room is panelled with wide pine boards given by someone in Michigan
who showed a particular interest in Hobart. The room contains a desk and
chair which were brought to this country from old Hingham by Rev. Mr. Cor-
nish, who in 1 913 visited the English Hingham as one of a committee appointed
by the town to present a substitute stone as a recognition of the action of the
English town already described. Besides Mr. Cornish and his wife, this committee
included Mr. and Mrs. Isaac Sprague and their son. This is the only official visit
made from our Hingham, though many citizens of our town have visited the English
town of the same name. The official presentation of this stone, which took place
before the townspeople, is shown in the cut on page 170. Between the
poles on each side were the words "Old — Hingham — New'' and on the other side
appeared "1637 — Welcome — 1913.'' Upon the platform stood the block of granite
which now has been placed on the edge of the village green, where it replaces the
old mounting block which stood outside the blacksmith shop and which now is
in this country. The inscription above the stone is given under the cut on page 168.
After appropriate remarks a luncheon was served in the White Hart Inn,
which was followed by a reception at the residence of Rev. Canon Upcher, the
Rector of the Hingham Parish. Rev. Mr. Cornish in his pamphlet says: —

"The gift also expressed a great hope. May not these stones exchanged between the
Hinghams be stepping stones to closer friendship between Anglo-Saxon people? . . •
When all the towns in both countries feel the same hearty good will no ill will can exist
between the nations. . . . The two Hinghams, when all is said, are strands in the bonds
of confidence that bind English speaking people together.''

The following day as the Committee left the village many of the inhabitants were
in their doorways waving the visitors a farewell. Near the old English town are
to be found Norwich, Yarmouth, Ipswich, Weston, Wrentham, Boxford, Stone-
ham, Ljmn, Sudbury, Attleboro, Cambridge and Boston, all of which names can
be found in both countries.

Just before America entered the Great War our Hingham took up a public
subscription for the benefit of the war suflEerers in English Hingham, and collected
fifteen hundred dollars for this purpose. In return, a copy of the roll of honour
of the English town during the war was sent over here and is now in the town
building.

HINGHAM, MASSACHUSETTS

MOUNTING BLOCK. NEAR THE VILLAGE GREEN, HINGHAM, ENGLAND
Hie iucfiptkHi above the atoiie leadi; "Thu itoiie was ^ven in iQit by the people o( Hingham, Mmh-
cbiaetts, to rq>lace the Andent Mouotliig Block irtilch ttood upon Uwi qxrt, presented to them in igi i by
Hingham, Norfolk." (England)

Very rec^itly Mr. Cornish made another visit to old Hingham and made a
speech on the vill^e green listened to by a large number of the inhabitants of the
old town.

Rev. Ebenezer Gay, known as the father of American Unitaiianism, seems to
have been one of the wits of our Hingham in the early days. Once he was riding
to Boston with a friend and as they were cros^g Boston Neck he was asked
jocosefy by his companion, "Where would you be, my friend, if those gallows had
their due?" "Riding alone to Boston" was the prompt reply.

The second parish of Hingham was formed at Cohasset, where an interestii^
interchange of presoits with the old Hingham took place only a few years ago.
The Rector of St. Stephen's Church in Cohasset obtained from St. Andrew's Episco-
pal Church in Hingham, England, part of the old baptismal font which now forms
part of the font in the Cohasset church. This font dates from the fourteenth
century and in it five generations of Lincolns in England were baptized. In

HINGHAM, MASSACHUSETTS

169

return a former Cohasset Rector, Rev. Milo H. Gates, D.D., obtained subscriptions
from a number of persons in this country for a bust of Abraham Lincoln which
was sent to the Church in old Hingham, the home of Lincoln's ancestors, and
which was unveiled in 1919 by Hon. J. W. Davis, American Ambassador to the
Court of St. James. Samuel Lincoln, a Norfolk weaver, was the first of the family
to migrate to America and the name of Lincoln has ever since been closely
identified with the old and new Hing-
hams. The inscription on this tablet
reads as follows: —

In this Parish for many generations

Lived the Lincohs,

Ancestors of the American,

ABRAHAM LINCOLN

To him, greatest of that lineage,

Many citizens of the United States

Have erected this memorial,

In the hope that for all ages,

Between that land and

This land and all lands,

There shall be
"Malice toward none,
With charity for all."

The American Ambassador said in the
course of his speech: —

"It was from this village that Lincoln's
progenitors set out almost three hundred
years ago to taste the great adventure criE
the new world, and to join with those bold
and hardy pioneers who were carving a
new home out of the Transatlantic wilder-
ness. Samuel Lincoln, the Norfolk weaver,
left Hingham, according to tradition, in
the year 1637, Abraham Lincoln, his re-
mote descemlant, returns today in this
memorial."

There is also a Lincoln statue in Man-
chester, England, and in Edinboro,
Scotland.

FnmJu"Lai,immt,"aiiUiadiiii^lkiEmiliili-Sttfi»imiUi

tome of hia dncendaoU, and otben
living in America, through the instrumentality of
Rev. MUo H. Galea, D.D.. former rector of St
Stephen's Church, Cohasset. Cohasset was origl*
nalTy a part of Hingham. Massachusetts.

Mr. Cornish, at the request of the Trust Company, describes Hingham,
England, in these words: —

"Hingham, Norfolk, lies sixteen miles distant from the city of Norwich, and about
seven miles from the nearest railway station. A rich farming country naturally centers
in this andent village. A beautiful and large Gothic church with a lofty tower stands
adjacent to the village square, which is surrounded by low brick houses. From this
village between the years 1633 and 163S about two hundred families removed for conscience

HINGHAM, MASSACHCSEITS

SCENE ON THE VILLAGE COMMON OF ffiNGHAM, ENGLAND,
At the timeoi the pnwnt&tbii, on August II, 1013, of t^e "tone sent by rewdentB of Hingham, Ma»sa-
chiuetts, ta replace the mountmg block now in the memorial tower in our Hingham. The committee from
the MaMacbuKttg town on this occasion was compoaed of Rev. Louii C. Conueh and Mn. Comish, Mr.
ud Mrs. Itaac Sprague and their son.

sake and established the Free Plantation of New Hingham, now the town of Bingham,
Massachusetts. An ajident record preserved in the Library of Cambridge University,
England, begins with these words, "The humble petition of the poor ruinated town of
Hingham, Norfolk,' and tells of the empty houses and forlorn condition after half the
people had come overseas. The exodus is still held in remembrance in Old Hingham."

MELROSE, MASSACHUSETTS

WE believe that there are a good many residents of our Melrose who do
not realize that in Trinity Church b a carved stone taken from the
ruins of Melrose Abbey, Scotland. It was brought to this country
largely through the efforts of Mr. William L. Williams of our Melrose, and at the
present time it is under the support of one of the trusses on the south side of the
Church, the tablet nearby maiting its history in these words: —

The above carved stone once formed a part of the Abbey Church of St
Mary, Melrose, Scotland, built about A.n. 1400. It was obtwned

MELROSE, MASSACHUSETTS

through the kind offices of Alexander T. Simson, Esq., Gildon Grove,
Melrose, and the Rev. James C. Herdman, Melrose and presented to
William L. Williams of this town, and by him to Trinity Parish, a.d.

Except for occasional visits to the old town by citizens of our Melrose, we know of
DO other connecting links, excepting a stained glass window in the Melrose High-
lands Club, the gift of Frank A. Messenger, Esq., which shows portions of the
Abbey. The latest inhabitant of our Melrose to receive a present from the old
country was Lieut. Carl E. Shumway, who while in Boston, England, in 1918, was
presented by the Mayor with a stone from the old church there.

Our Melrose was formerly called "Maiden North End" and "North Maiden"
and still before that "Pond Feilde." Originally it belonged to Charlestown, which
then included what is now SomerviUe, Maiden, Everett, Woburn, Melrose, Stone-
ham, Cambridge, West Cambridge and Reading, and a large part of Medford.
Many townships were la-
ter fonned from these ori-
ginal lands, which reduced
this territory to its present
limits. Melrose was set-
tled in the early days, al-
though the town was not
incorporated imtil 1850.
It is certain that it was
called after its Scotch
namesake, but there has
seemed to be a contro-
versy as to whether the
name was given by Will-
iam Bogle of Glasgow,
Scotland, who moved to
our Melrose, or by Rev.
John McLeish, pastor of
the Methodist Protestant
Church at that time.
It b apparent that there
was a meeting at Mr.
Bogle's house at which
the question of the name
was discussed, one of i'*^(r«f*A^n>/""AtStoMi*«<rr«(CM.pa.> By cont a. Brtyi^

those present making the trinity church, melrose, Massachusetts

remark: — in this church it ti stone from MeboM Abbey, Scotland.

MELROSE, SCOTLAND

Market Square from EaM.

Fcba-RtlnrUim. Eif.

Frtm a tMeptft Khtimil /«a Ftftn-Saiflutt, £if .

CHANCEL AND EAST WINDOW, MELROSE ABBEY, SCOTLAND

MELROSE, MASSACHUSETTS

MELROSE ABBEY. FOUNDED BY DAVID I, KING OF SCOTLAND
A Mofw from this Abbey wu wnt as a prewnt to Trinity Church, Melrose, Mtuiachusetts.

"I know a beautiful little town in Scotland which resembles this section
so much that I should like to have our new town named after it. It is
Melrose."

The prominent names connected with the present dty have been Sprague, Green,
Barrett, Lynda, Upham, Vinton, Howard and Guild.

The name of the Scotch town, often spoken of as " Fair Melrose," is derived
from the British "Moal Ross," meaning a projection of meadow. At one time it
was also known by the name of "Malerose." Poets have sung of Melrose and its
Abb^, and of the river Tweed, which runs by the town, and therefore, we will not
attempt to write of the place, or the wonders of this Abbey, of which Chambers
made the remark, "To say that it is beautiful is to say nothing." The Abbey was
founded by David I, and was dedicated in 1146 to the Virgin Mary. David I en-
trusted the Abbey to a body of Cistercian monks from Yorkshire. The abbots of
Mdrose were noted for their sanctity and knowledge. The Abbey was restored by
Robert Bruce in 1326 and Sir Walter Raleigh also did much to preserve its ruins.
The winding river, gardens and village, and hamlets nearby make the scenery
most attractive. The town suffered much durii^ the wars between England
and Scotland.

THE ELEANOR CROSS, NORTHAMPTON, ENGLAIO)

One of the three crosses that remain standing today, oui
erected for his beloved Queen, one on each of the
"funeral way" to Westminster Abbey, November, 1290.

175

NORTHAMPTON, MASSACHUSETTS

NORTHAMPTON is known to New Englanders and to many persons
throughout the whole United States as being the home of Hon. Calvin
Coolidge, the esteemed Governor of Massachusetts and Republican nom-
inee for Vice President in 1920, whose name during the important election of 1919
"for law and order" traveled across the seas to the mother town and other places
in England and even in France.

The English Northampton has always shown great interest in her daughter
and at the time of the two hundred and fiftieth anniversary of the Massachusetts
town, held in 1904, Hon. Samuel S. Campion, Alderman of Northampton, England,
happened to be visiting the St. Louis Exhibition and was invited to be present.
He was able to accept and began the ceremony with an address to the children of
the Sunday-schools, sa>ing among other things: —

"Boys and girls, — or shall I say brothers and sisters, — I am from Northampton, Eng-
land, and am standing on the sacred soil of New England. I am sure that no person
sang with more earnestness than I the hymn this morning,

*0 God, beneath Thy guiding hand
Our exiled fathers crossed the sea.'

Those brave old Puritans and Pilgrims were your fathers and my fathers. I come from
Northampton, England, to greet you, boys and girls, and you children of an older growth,
on this auspicious anniversary, and it is with peculiar pleasure that I find myself address-
ing a Sunday-school gathering in the City of Northampton, Mass. First, let me say
how warmly I appreciate the kind words which the Governor has said in regard to my
rtwntng here. ... I come to bring the greetings of the Sunday-school children and workers
of old Northampton to the Sunday-school children and workers of this old dty in the
new Continent. . . . And I know they feel the greatest interest in your Celebration, and
wish you all the greatest happiness and the highest success in your school work."

After the address, the school-children voted to send a reply to the school-children
of the old town. Mr. Campion in a later speech told the Northamptonites of the
first Norman church and castle in his town, the history of which is connected with
the life of that reitiarkable figure in history, Thomas k Becket, Archbishop of
Canterbury. These buildings are still standing, as is also another monument known
as Queen Eleanor's Cross. Mr. Campion continued his remarks by adding that
the people of old Northampton in the seventeenth century "were men, men with
strong convictions and unbendable backbone, and their womenfolk were of the
same heroic mould as themselves. It was of such stuff that the early settlers
were made, whom the old country sent over to form your settlements here — to
create a new Northampton in Massachusetts." Later in the celebration, Mr.
Campion told his hearers of the Norman Conquest, when William the Conqueror

NORTHAMPTON, MASSACHUSETTS

s prinltJ in cammtmiralm ^ BrUiik-A mtican Paa CtMaury. Clriilmai El. A .D. 1S14-1914

THE ANCESTRAL HOME OF THE FAMILY OF GEORGE WASHINGTON, [N SULGRAVE,
NORTHAMPTON, ENGLAND

took possession of Northampton, and then handed the city over to his niece, Judith.
He also mentioned Simon de St. Liz, the first Earl of Northampton, the brave
crusader, who when he returned from battle erected as a memorial the church
which is still standing, establishing also a monastery which he dedicated to St.
Andrew. Mr. Campion also mentioned that in 1 546 the Mayor of old Northampton
was named Lawrence Washington, a direct ancestor of George Washington, and
that within six miles of the town, in Great Brington, the family remains lie buried.
On the tomb b a coat of arms of the Washington family composed of the Stars
and Bars, which according to tradition gave us our Stars and Stripes. He also
mentioned the fact that the father and mother of Benjamin Franklin came from
the little village of Ecton, only five miles from Northampton; also that Henry
Wadsworth Longfellow's ancestry on his mother's side claimed as their residence
a village within ten miles of the town. After his address the English Alderman
then read the following cablegram from the Mayor of his town: —

NORTHAMPTON, MASSACHUSETTS

NORTHAMPTON, ENGLAND

"Convey to the Mayor, City Council and the inhabitants heartiest greetings from
myself, the Council and Burgesses of Northampton, England, on the two hundred and
fiftieth anniversary of settlement of our namesake American City.

LEWIS, Mayor."

It may be interesting to mention that an invitation to attend this two hundred
and fiftieth anniversary was sent to his Honour the Mayor ajid City Council of
Northampton, England, to which a very gracious reply was received reading as
follows: —

"To ms Honour the Mayor,

AND THE City Counol of Northampton, U.S.A.
Mr. Mayor and Gentlemen: —

On behalf of myself and the Corporation of the ancient Borough of Northampton,
England, I beg to acknowledge and to thank you for the invitation with which you have
honoured us, and for the cordial feeling which prompted the invitation, to join with you
in your celebration of the 250th anniversary of the settlement of your prosperous city. . . .
Mr. Mayor and Gentlemen, I feel certain that the Council will appreciate highly your
kindness and will join with me in heartiest good wishes for the growth and progress of

rv saftferrr^

VIKW OK MARKET SQUARE, NORTHAMPTON, ENGLAND

NORTHAMPTON, MASSACHUSETTS 179

your City and the best welfare of its inhabitants. I shall also ask the Council to order
your invitation to be duly inscribed in the records of our Borough, which received its first
charter from King Richard I on i8th November, anno Domini, 1189. I have the honour
to be,

Mr. Mayor and Gentlemen,

Yours very faithfully,

EDWARD LEWIS, Mayor.''

One of the interesting features of the celebration was an old stage coach sent by
Southampton, which was marked ** Northampton to Southampton Mail 1809."

Another speaker on this occasion mentioned the amusing words of Mr. Choate,
who said: —

**The Pilgrim Mothers were more worthy of our admiration than the Pilgrim Fathers,
for they not only endured all the hardships which the Pilgrim Fathers did, but they had
to endure, in addition, the Pilgrim Fathers themselves."

When Mr. Campion returned to England he made a report to his Mayor of the
Northampton celebration, and his account of the proceedings was published in
the "Northampton Mercury,'* a few quotations from which may be of interest: —

**I was made, as your representative, the honoured guest of the city, and in every
function connected with the Celebration, I was not only placed in positions of honour,
but the kindliest allusions were made to my presence as the representative of the mother
dty in the old country. For it was made clear that Northampton, Old England, was the
source from whence sprang Northampton, Mass. I was informed that the New England
dty received its name out of respect to some of the earliest settlers who had come from
our andent borough. . . . Nor did I forget to make suitable reference to the Washington
tomb at Great Brington Church. . . . His Excellency, John L. Bates, the Governor of
Massachusetts, was also present, and in his address gave me a most cordial welcome
as the representative of the old mother dty. In response to my greetings, the large
assembly stood up in token of their approval of a proposition to reciprocate the good
wishes of which I was the bearer to the whole of the Simday-school workers and scholars
of Northampton, Old England. And through you, Mr. Mayor, I hope I may be permitted
to convey this redprocal greeting from the Sunday-schools of Northampton, Mass., as
an example of one of the important ties which bind together the Old and the New Worlds."

The English Mayor, in a few appredative words, moved that the thanks of the
Coimdl be accorded to him and that his report be entered as public minutes of
the borough.

The first church in our Northampton was gathered in 1661, the congregation
then consisting of only eight persons, whose names were Eleazar Mather, David
Wilton, William Clarke, John Strong, Henry Cunliffe, Hervey Woodward, Thomas
Roote and Thomas Hanchett. In these days the worshippers were reminded of
the service by tnmipet or drum, as bells were not used in the very early days.
The first minister was Eleazar Mather, son of Richard Mather of Dorchester, a
brother of Increase Mather, the greatest of the name, and uncle of Cotton Mather.
Eleazar was bom in Dorchester in 1637. During the later years of the church.

NORTHAMPTON, MASSACHUSETTS i8i

other ministers serving, after Mather, were Stoddard, Edwards, Hooker and
Williams, Edwards perhaps being the most illustrious of all.

Our Northampton was first settled in 1654, was incorporated a city in 1884,
and has often been spoken of as '^The Meadow City/* as it lies in one of the
most fertile plains in this country. Most of the early settlers were natives of Eng-
land, who were emigrants to this country in 1630, later journeying from Boston to
Hartford, Windsor, or Springfield, and thence proceeding up the river to Northamp-
ton, which was in those days called Nonotuck. Springfield had a hand in the early
settlement of this town, for we find that out of the twenty-four people who signed
the petition in 1653, three of them, John Pynchon, Elizur Holyoke and Samuel
Chapin, came from this flourishing city to help in the new settlement at Northamp-
ton. Joseph Hawley, Seth Pomeroy, Caleb Strong and Isaac C. Bates are impor-
tant names in the later history of the town.

The second plantation created from Northampton lands was called Hadley,
from a town of similar name in Suffolk, England; Hatfield was also set off, being
likewise named from a town in Hertfordshire, England.

In the eighteenth century Northampton, England, was spoken of as '*the proud
beauty of the midlands," and today she still lays claim to this name. It is situated
in the heart of England, easily accessible, and from every angle is rich in history
and antiquity. The town is said to have been founded by Belinus, a British
king, and for centuries it was alternately ravaged by Saxons, Danes and Normans.
After the Norman invasion, and the marriage of Simon de St. Liz, the first Norman
earl, to Maud, the daughter of Judith, the widow of the last Saxon Earl of North-
ampton, the town became the resort of royalty. Here came Henry I, Henry 11
and King John, and in 1564 Queen Elizabeth visited the town and was received in
great state. Many years later, when Charles I and his queen passed through the
town, they were presented with costly gifts of plate. Only fourteen miles away,
at Naseby, on June 14, 1645, the army of Charles I met with defeat. The towns-
men, since Queen Elizabeth's time, were ever strong Puritans and during the civil
war favored the Parliamentary party. Charles II, when he ''came into his own,"
marked his displeasure by ordering the demolition of the castle and walls of the town.

America's first woman poet, Anne Bradstreet, was bom in this English town.

NORWICH, CONNECTICUT

THE people of Norwich, Connecticut, have always appreciated the fact that
their dty on the Thames, above New London, is named for the large dty
of the same name in Norfolk County, England, and it is for this reason
that there have been many official and unofficial exchanges of friendship. Members
of the Oilman family of Norwich, Connecticut, have made a number of visits to
the ancient dty in England and have also corresponded for many years with the

i82 NORWICH, CONNECTICUT

Lord Mayor and other oflidals. In 1859, Daniel C. Gilman, once president of
Johns Hopkins University, and brother of William C. Gilman, a citizen of Nor-
wich, who has carried on a good deal of correspondence with the English Norwich,
delivered an historical address, which has been published in a volume called "The
Norwich Jubilee," giving an account of the Connecticut city. William C. Gilman
has given to us an interesting account of the two hundred and fiftieth anniversary
of the founding of Norwich, and also mentions the interesting correspondence that
took place between the two cities in 1905, of which we give copies:—

"GuiLDHALi., NoRWicn, loth January, 1905.

Dear Mr. Mayor:— -
I have the honour to transmit in a wooden case a Resolution which was

tmanimously passed by tlie Council of this City on the land November

last, with newspapers containing an account of such meeting; likewise ,

the cushion cover rtffrrcd to in ihc Resolution.
I trust that the case will arrive safely, and that the contents thereof

will prove an object of interest to your Citizens, and remind them of the

old City from which yours has taken its name.

I am, Mr, Mayor,

Yours faithfully,
Arnold H. Miller, Town Clerk.
The Worshipful,
The Mayor of Norwich,
Connecticut, U.S.A.

Norwich At a meeting of the Council of the Mayor, Aldermen, and
Citizens of the City of Norwich, held on the twenty-
second day of November, one thousand nine hundred and
four

Mr. Alderman Wild moved, Mr. Councillor Hewlett seconded and it was

unanimously

Resolved, On the Report and recommendation of the City Committee
that two of the cushions presented to the Corporation by
Thomas Baret, Mayor of the City in 1651, for use at, but not
now required at the Cathedral, be given one to the Castle
Museum Committee and the other to the Mayor and
Corporation of Norwich, Connecticut, U.S.A. for preserva-
tion and exhibition in the Museum of that City, and that the
Town Clerk be authorized to a^ the Corporate Seal to this
Resolution.

Arnold H. Miller,

Town Clerk,"
"City Clerk's Office, Norwich.

Whereas, The Council of the Mayor, Aldermen and Citizens of the
City of Norwich, England, by resolution bearing date November the
twenty-second, 1904, did, on behalf of that Corporation present to the
Mayor and Oupoiatlon of this City, one of a set of cushions presented

NORWICH, CONNECTICUT 183

to the first named Corporation in 165 1 by its then Mayor, Hon. Thomas
Baret, and said gift has now come into the possession of this Council for
preservation and exhibition,

Resolved, That said gift be and it is hereby accepted in the name and
behalf of the Mayor and Corporation of the City of Norwich, Connect-
icut, and

Resolved, That the same be and hereby is perpetually loaned to the
Norwich Free Academy to be by said Corporation placed in the Slater
Museum for preservation and exhibition, together with the certified
copy of the original resolution of gift accompanying the same, and

Resolved, That the thanks of the Court of Common Council and of the
citizens here represented by its membership are due and are cordially ex-
tended to the Donors; and

Resolved, That a copy of these resolutions suitably engrossed be for-
warded to the Mayor, Aldermen and Citizens of Norwich, England,
in testimony of our appreciation of their distinguished consideration.

Attest, City Clerk, Steven D. Moore."

The Thomas Baret mentioned above was a brother of Margaret Baret Hun-
tington, who came from Saybrook, Connecticut, in 1633, and who is the ancestress
of all the Huntingtons in New England. Another exchange of felicitations took
place in 1909 at the two hundred and fiftieth anniversary of our city, at which
time the following telegram was received: —

** Norwich, England, July 5, 1909.
Gilbert S. Raymond,

Secretary of Anniversary Celebration Committee,
Norwich, Conn. U.S.A.

City of Norwich sends hearty congratulations to American daughter on
her attaining two hundred and fifty years.

Signed Walter Rye, Mayor."

A suitable reply was sent by the Connecticut city. In many places in the city, the
English flag was flown beside the Star Spangled Banner.

Invitations were also sent to the Mother City to attend the Quarter Millen-
nium held in 1909. An interesting ceremony during this celebration was held in
Old Norwich Town burying groimd where the guests of the occasion assembled,
among the moss-covered stones that marked the graves of many of the forefathers,
the graves of four being marked by a tall tree, upon the trunk of which were the
names of the pioneers who were buried there, — ^Thomas Adgate, Simon Huntington,
JohnPost and Thomas Waterman, — and also the name of Christopher Huntington, Jr.,
the first male child bom in Norwich. We give on page 184 a cut of the monimient

NORWICH, CONNECTICnT

erected in the first baiial [dace
in Nwwich Town to Major
John MasiHi, often qmken of
as the "Myles Standish of
Connecticut," who with Wn-
thrap, Fenway, Gardner, Hig-
^nscHi and Fitdi formed the
first of the little colony at Say-
brook on the owst. Interesting
monuments have been placed
on Sachem Street to Uncas,
chief of the Mohegans, who
captured hfiantonomo, chief
of the Narragansetts, names
too well known in history to be
described again. There is also
a monument erected to Mian-
tonomo on Sachem's Plain.
There is still another memorial
that has been erected to
Thomas Leffingwetl, who car-
ried provisions to Uncas for the
relief of the Mohegans when
they were being besieged by
their enemies. Our Norwich is
called the "Rose of New Eng-
land," which name perhaps
would be disputed by many
other towns and cities.

Norwich, England, the cap-
ital of Norfolk County, is often
called the " City of Churches,"
and one writer describes it as "either a dty in an orchard" or "an orchard
in a dty," as the houses and trees are so attractively blended together. Nor-
wich is about twenty miles from Yarmouth and is noted for its great antiquity
and interesting history, having been at one time the seat of the Anglo-Saxon
princes; it has also been the scene of many happenings among the Iceni, Romans,
Angles, Saxons, Jutes and Danes, its earliest name being, "North-wic," found
on the early coins. The dty has one of the finest market places in England, and
in the old days it was said that at the Saturday markets the people showed more
interest in the advance or fall in the price of butter than in any other event of the

By W. K. S

THE FOUNDERS' MONUMENT,

NORWICH, CONNECTICUT 185

week. Americans are particularly interested in the "Maid's Head Hotel," which
is very old, and which is situated in Tombland, the ancient name of the market
place.

The story is told of a Norfolk laborer who decided to migrate to America, and
who was seen one day driving along the road near Norwich in his farm cart. He
was asked where he was going, and he replied that he didn't **fare rightly to know
by what route they were going to the United States," but added, "We'm gwine
ter sleep't Debenham [thirty miles from Norwich] the first night, so's to kinder
break the journey." An interesting event that took place in East Anglia was the
"camping" contest, which was a form of football game between Norfolk and Suf-
folk, and which took place on the common with three hundred or more on a side.
These matches were often fatal and it is claimed that one contest resulted in the
death of nine men during the fortnight of play. In one special event Suffolk won
after fourteen hours of play, and just as the ball was being thrown in, the Norfolk
men inquired of their opponents whether they had brought their coffins with them.

One of the coach routes was between London and Norwich, and at certain times
of the year the country nearby supplied so many turkeys and geese that the would-be
passengers complained, particularly near Christmas time, that they could not get
seats on the coach, as it was piled high, inside and out, with birds on their way to
the London markets. There are amusing pictures showing the Norwich coach
loaded with fowl and not a passenger anywhere to be seen.

The history of the See at Norfolk dates back to the seventh century, when its
seat was at Dummoc, a Roman station on the coast of Suffolk, now called "Dun-
wich;" in 1094 the See was transferred to Norwich, and in 1096 Bishop Lozinga
founded the present cathedral, and also a Benedictine Abbey. The castle which
is the next important building to the cathedral, and which once covered many
acres of land, was plundered in 12 16 and later made a prison; it goes back thirteen
hundred years and perhaps has seen more fighting than any other castle in England.

The Gumey family, well known in America, has been associated especially with
Norwich, England, and at one time owned Gumey's Bank. It may be interesting
also to mention that Edith Cavell's body was brought back from Belgium with great
ceremony and was buried in an enclosure at the east end of the Cathedral.

At one time the town of Castor nearby was larger than Norwich as shown by

this rhyme: —

"Caistor was a city when Norwich was none.
And Norwich was built of Caistor stone."

PORTSMOUTH AND RYE, NEW HAMPSHIRE

THE histories of Portsmouth and Rye are so dosdy cxninected that we tUiik
it best to mention them together.
The first actual settlement in New Hampshire was made in 1623 at
Odiome's Point, opposite Newcastle and across little Harbour at the mouth of die
Piscataqua River. The iirst visitor to this part of Nev Hampshire was Maitin
Fring from Bristol, England, who has been further described under our artide on
"Bristol." This first colony at Odiome's Font, Rye, has usually been refEened to
as the "Thompson Settlement," for the reascai that David ThonqiacHi was the
most prominent person connected with the undertaking, he having been author-
ized "To found a Plantacon on the river of Piscataqua, to cultivate the vine,
discover mines, carry on the fisheries, and trade with the natives, to consecrate
this soil to the service of God and liberty." He came over in the ship
"Jonathan," and on this point of land erected a dwelling called "Mason Hall."
Thompson was associated with Sir Ferdinando Gorges and Captain John Mason,
who had been granted a charter from King James for "planting, ruling, ordering
and governing New England in America ; "
the latter is usually regarded as the
"foimder of New Hampshire." Gorges
and Mason we have also mentioned under
"Bristol," for it is with that town in
England that their names are 90 closely
associated. We give on this page a
picture of the tablet that has been
erected to commemorate this first settle-
meat in the State of New Hampshire.
This settlement was called Sandy Beach
for a number of years until the incorpora-
tion of Newcastle in 1693, when with
parts of Portsmouth and Hampton it was
formed into a parish under the name of
Rye. The few early pioneers, however,
became discouraged, as they soon had the
misfortune to bury forty of their number
in the cemetery nearby, and had it not
been for the courage of C^tain Walter
Neale, the Governor of the Colony, the
settlement which finally resulted in the

Kininui Wallaa Backa, £•«.

TABLET PLACED ON ODIORNE'S POINT,
RYE, NEW HAMPSfflRE, OPPOSITE NEW-
CASTLE,

PORTSMOUTH and RYE, NEW HAMPSHIRE

TABLET PLACED IN GARRISON CHURCH, PORTSMOUTH, ENGLAND.

formation of the State of New Hampshire might have been abandoned. Some
years later John Odiome built a house here and established such a large farm that
the ptnnt was finally named after him, and is so called to this day.

Among the early settlers in Newcastle was Francis Jennings, or Jenness as be
has sometimes been called, who in 1665 came here with some of his friends from Rye,
England. A few years later he moved across the river to Sandy Beach and it was
probably due to him that the name Rye was given to the New Hampshire town.
Here it is said he established a bakery and distributed his bread among towns along
the coast in his small pinnace.

The dty of Portsmouth was named in honour of Captain John Mason, who as
we have said, was the original proprietor of the Province of New Hampshire, and
who was at one time Governor of Portsmouth, England. He had for some time
been interested in the trade with the New England colonies, and foresaw the possi-
bilities of this country. To his memory seven prominent citizens of Portsmouth,
New Hampshire, John Scribner Jenness, Charles Levi Woodbury, Charles Wesley
Tuttle, Alexander Hamilton Ladd, Charles Henry Bell, Eliza Appleton Haven
and Charlotte Maria Haven, placed gas standards and a brass tablet, in
1784, in Garrison Church, Portsmouth, England, the words on the tablet being
as follows: —

i88 PORTSMOUTH and RYE, NEW HAMPSHIRE

To the glory of GOD and in memory of CAPTN
JOHN MASON— CapUin in the Royal Navy-
Treasurer of the Army^Captain of South
Sea Castle — Governor of the Colony of
Newfoundland — Patentee and Founder of
New Hampshire in America — Vice Admiral
of New England — Bom 1586 Died 1635.
This faithful churchman, devoted patriot
and gallant officer of whom England and
America will ever be proud was buried
in Westminster Abbey.

It was not until 1653, though, that Brian Pendleton, Renald Femald, John Shere-
boum, Richard Cult and Samuel Gaines actually petitioned for the change of the
name of this territory to its present one, the plantation having previously been
called "Piscataqua Settlement" or "Strabery Banke " so named by reason <
bank near there where strawberries were found. The name Portsmouth was thought
by many to be especially appropriate, as the land was situated near a good port
and at the mouth of a river.

Several times our city and its namesake in England have corresponded and
exchanged presents; one of these occasions was in 1874 when the Mayors
interchanged views of their respective cities and on another occasion the Mayor
of our city, Hon. Wallace Hackett, who has kindly placed at our disposal a
hbtory of the English Portsmouth, received views of the English seaport and also
a letter from the Mayor which read as follows: —

"Mayor's Office.
The Town Hall,
Portsmouth, aSth October, 1908
Dear Mr. Backett:—

Before retiring from Office, I should like to thank you very much for
the Mementos of your City which you kindly sent me, and think it very
appropriate indeed that the Mayor of Portsmouth in the new World
^ould send such a friendly letter to the Mayor of this ancient Borot^.
I reciprocate the kindly sentiments which you express, and beg to
extend to yourself or any Member of your Corporation a hearty wel-
come, should you at any time be visiting this part of the Country.

With hearty good w^es for the success of yourself and Colleagues
and the prosperity of your City,

I am

Yours very truly,
F. G. Foster, Mayor."

In s[>eaking of the early settlements in New Hampshire we must not forget to
mention the Isles of Shoals which are situated about eight miles from the main-
land. It is difficult for us to realize that in the early days they were the rendezvous
of hundreds of English and other ships, that fishing there was carried on very
actively, and that their popiilation at one time was lai^er than that of any other
place in the Eastern provinces. It was also there that the English fishermen called

PORTSMOUTH and RYE, NEW HAMPSHIRE i8g

in order to learn the latest news from their country. These early days at the Shoals

are well described by John S. Jenness in these words: —

"During the entire sixteenth century fishing vessels came hither
from our eastern waters. Doggers and Pinckies of the English, clumsy
Busses of Holland, light Fly-boats of Flanders, the Biskiner and
Portingal and many other odd h^b-peaked vessels were attracted thither
;r after summer."

At one time, about 1661, it was suggested that these islands be called " Apledoore"
from the Devon fishing village of Appledore, and even to this day one of the group
bears this name. The islands are closely associated with that great explorer,
Captain John Smith, who at first called the group by his own name, "Smith's
Isles" and it was, therefore, quite fitting that the Society of Colonial Wars in
the State of New Hampshire should dedicate in 1914 a memorial to him on Star
Island, the services being held three
hundred years after Captain Smith's
visit to the shores of New England.
The words on the tablet are as
follows: —

Captain JOHN SMITH

1579-1631

After proving his valor in

Europe and America became

Governor of Virginia

and

Admiral of New England

While exploring this coast in the

Spring of 1614 made the first recorded

visit to these islands, named by him

Smith's Isles.

Not only has this country honoured
this early explorer, but England has also
placed an epitaph to his memory in the
church of St. Sepulchre,London,and the
inscription thereon begins as follows: —

"Here lies one conquer'd that hath

conquer' d Kings,
Subdu'd large Territories, and done

things
Which to the World impossible

would seeme."

Smith was the author of a book called "Generall Historie of Virginia, New England
and the Summer Isles." Those who have read the story of his life remember that
at one time he slew three Turks in the Transylvania Campaign and it was in memory

PlulttntM h SI. Clair SuMt

TABLET PLACED ON STAR ISLAND, ISLES

OF SHOALS, OFF THE COAST OF NEW

HAMPSHIRE,

[n honour of the noted English explorer, CapUin
John Smith, who visited the islands in 1614, naming
them "Smith's Isles."

" Thi Beilmiinti <^ C«lmiat Usim." h Btvy S. Bmrmn, DJ>., Biilcriam ^ Uaini
ST. SEPULCHRE CHURCH, LONDON,

of this achievement that the three islands off Cape Ann were named by him "Three
Turks' Heads" and there is still a Turk's Head Inn at Rockport near Gloucester.
It is also interesting to mention that he was granted the right by the Heralds'
College to use three Turks' heads on his coat of arms. Professor Smith, Governor
of the New Hampshire Society for Colonial Wars, at the dedication of the memorial,
referred to him as "the navigator, the sailor, the traveller, the explorer, the colo-
nizer, the ruler, the author and one of the finest types of the race to which he be-
longed." On the same day as the dedication of the Smith memorial another tablet
was erected on Star Island to the memory of Rev. John Tucke, whose remains were
placed under the obelisk. Tucke was bora in Hampton, New Hampshire, to which
town his great-grandfather had come from Suffolk, England. The younger Tucke
lived at the Isles of Shoals for forty years, and, as the place was primarily a fishing
settlement, he was paid at one time in "winter fish," and was often referred to as
the "fisher of men." Another minister of the early daj^ was Rev. John Brock;
one day the fishermen all came to him beggmg him to postpone his meeting as they
wished to go fishing. The minister replied, "If you will go away I say imto you,

PORTSMOUTH and RYE, NEW HAMPSHIRE

191

catch fish if you can, but as for you that will tarry and worship the Lord
this day I will pray unto Him for you that you may catch fish until you are
weary." The story reads that thirty of the number went fishing and caught
four fish, while the five who stayed went out in their boats later and hauled in
five hundred fish. It is also related that church meetings after this were always
well attended.

"God save Englonde and the town of Rye." (From Old Customal.)

Rye in England is in the County of Sussex, and to the millions of
people who have followed the British Army in Flanders, Ypres Castle in Rye will
always be of special interest. This castle, which is really only a tower, is of
great antiquity and was for centuries before the British soldiers fought over the
famous battlefield of France called "Wipers" Tower, and it was, of course,
natural that the battle of Ypres and the
town where it was fought should be
spelled and pronounced the same way
as was the old tower in their native
land. This structure which was built by
William of Ypres, Ear! of Kent, in the
twelfth century, is in a good state of
preservation.

Old Rye is very quaint, with its red-
roofed dwellings clustered about the huge
rock, which rises sharply from the flat
green stretches of Romney marshes. It is
said that some of the streets of the town
have grass growing between the cobble-
stones, and there is a story that the Rye
Corporation used to top-dress this grass
every spring in order to make it grow so
well. It is no wonder that artists have
thronged this attractive place, which was
called "Rye Royal" by Queen Elizabeth
during her visit there. The earliest notice
in history was at the time the Danes
landed near there in a.d. 893. During the
reign of Edward the Confessor, he gave
Rye to the abbots and monks of Fecamp
in Normandy, France, because he liked
that coimtry and wanted to help her
people. Henry III, however, at once ex-

Gr Cg., £nil"^ Rubtrlin. Eit.

HOUSE IN RYE, ENGLAND, IN WHICH

HENRY JAMES LIVED FROM

1898 TO 1916

It ii OD the right of the street and is known ag
the "Idmb House." The house in the back-
ground is known as the banqueting-hall and
was used by Mr. James as his library, where
he did all tus work.

Flubpatk by F. Frilk fir- Ca., Emhai KbUma Ian Frta-FtlHrtitn. Bif.

MERMAID STREET, RYE, ENGLAND. SHOWING MERMAID INN (od right)
Rye ia a most attractive town, with its qu^t and narrow streets, many of which are cobblestoned.

clianged Rye for other property in Gloucestershire and Lincolnshire, which he
allowed the monks to hold.

Rye is said to have received its name from the Latin Rla, or from the
British word Rhy, meaning a ford or bay, although the best authorities
claim the name came from the French Rie, meaning a bank of the sea. To
New Englanders the connection of Henry James with the English town is
of special interest, for it was there that he lived for part of each of twenty
years, in the old Lamb house, which we show on page 191 together with
his library, in which he wrote many of his books. Mr. James was a familiar
figure in the town and when he died he was much missed by the inhatntants.
There is an interesting tragedy connected with this Lamb, who was the previous
owner of the house in which James hved. Lamb once sentenced a certain butcher
for false weights, whereupon the latter stabbed by mistake a man called Grebell,
who had lived in the house before Lamb bought it and who was a relative of Lamb.
This murder of an innocent man caused such a tremendous sensation that the skull
of the butcher and the gibbet upon which he was hung are both preserved in the
town hall. One of the attractive streets of the town is called Mermaid Street,
upon which is situated Meimatd Ion.

PORTSMOUTH and RYE, NEW HAMPSHIRE

HcoUteltr

PORTSMOUTH, ENGLAND, :

Portsmouth Harbour, England, and the long sea road between the Isle of Wight
and Hampshire is so safe for vessels that seamen often call it the "King's Bed-
chamber." Portsmouth is one of the famous dties of En^and and, of course,
received its name from the mouth of the port, which was believed in this case would
become the port of England. The name was originally derived from the Roman
word Portus. The earliest record of the island of Portsea, upon which the dty is
^tuated, was during the time of King Ethelred, who granted it to the new Minster
at Winchester. Portsmouth Harbour was used by the Romans, who built the for-
tress of Porchester ; the port was also used by Henry III as the place for assembling
his expeditions to Gascony, between which place and Portsmouth much trade was
carried on at one time. To Portsmouth also came Charles I. A bust of this king
is set up high in the wall of the great tower at the foot of High Street and beneath
the bust is the following inscription:

After his travels through all France into Spain, and having passed very
many dangers both by sea and land, he arrived here the 5th day of
October, 1623.

Here also landed Catherine, consort of Charles II, from Lisbon just previous to
their marriage; here too landed the present Prince of Wales on his return from his
recent visit to Canada and the United States.

194 PORTSMOUTH and RYE, NEW HAMPSHIRE

A curious custom of the place was for the rope-makers from the great rope-walks
to escort the kings when they visited the dty. There was also in the city an old
gun wharf, as it was called, which was built in 1662 by a contractor, whose name,
curiously enough, was William Shakespeare, and the place where his workmen were
paid o£E is still called Shakespeare's Head. In the center of the town is the parish
church, which was erected in the early part of the thirteenth century, and wWch was
dedicated to Thomas k Becket; in the cupola of this church was a lantern in which
was a bell that used to be rung whenever a ship appeared in the harbour. Ports-
mouth was also a great shipbuilding center as early as the days of King John, and
from then until now many notable vessels of the English Navy have been launched
there. The Free Mart Fair, which has been held in Portsmouth for many years
and which we believe is held there to this day, is spoken of in these words: —

"Ye lovers of Fun to Portsmouth repair
And see the delighls that abound at our fair."

It is impossible to mention all the important evehts that have taken place in
this great English seaport, but it will be of special interest to Americans, as well
as to Englishmen, to mention that Charles Dickens was bom in the Borough of
Portsmouth.

Portsmouth, on the island of Newport, Rhode Island, was also named after the
English city. Some of its early settlers became dissatisfied and removed to the
other end of the island, founding Newport, one of the foremost watering places
of the world. Among these early settlers of Newport were William Coddington,
William Brenton and Thomas Hazard. Brenton owned a large farm on Bren-
ton's Point, so called to this day:

SANDWICH. MASSACHUSETTS

IN 1900 the late Col. Charles I^. Norton of our Sandwich visited the town of the
same name in England from which our Cape town got its name, and several
years later he received three seals from the English Mayor, one of which he suc-
ceeded in having adopted by Sandwich, Massachusetts, as its official seal. In 191 2,
Henry B. Russell, Esq., of the neighboring town of Bourne, which was once part of
Sandwich, visited the old town of Sandwich, England, and brought back a number
of pictures, which now hang in the reference room of the Sandwich Public Library.
Just before the Great War, William L. Nye, Esq., another resident of our town,
had some correspondence with the Curator of the mother town, who sent a number
of photographs which we have had reproduced on page 195. Mr. Nye has just
been able to trace a piece of the wainscoting from the town hall of old Sandwich,
which was sent in 1913 to a member of the Wing family of our town, by Mr. J. A.
Jacobs, Curator of the Sandwich archives in Enghuid. This relic of old England,

It cf William L. .lyi. Elf ..cf SanJickli, UasioilmiilU KinJ-tii ll'UIiaiL.X,t,Ei^.

SANDWICH, ENGLAND— SANDOWN ROAD

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ix fuiHi>w> i/ Wf/^ro I,. A>, Gs«., c/ 5anJi>v*. Uoiiuiiuwi KMmii William L. Kyt. E14

CATTLE MARKET AND TOWN HALL, SANDWICH. ENGLAND

>W Bety it. HtuMtii. ei«.
NYE FAMILY BOULDER. SWDWICH,

MASSACHrsFnrs

Erected by the Nye [amily in America in
meiDoiy of their ancestors, the Nycs and the
Tuppen, eariy settlera in this Cape Cod town.
The insoiptioD is given on page 197.

SAXD\S7CH, MASSACHUSETTS

dating back to the year 1570, has just
been returned by Colonel \Mng frcwn out
West, at the su^estion of Mr. Nye, and
will now be placed among the antiquities
in the Sandwich Historical Society. Mem-
bers of the Vilng family for many years
have been coirespooding with Mr. Jacobs.
The Mayor of the English town also sent
over to the Wing famUy (on the occasion
of one of their family reunions) some
books and papers. Further than this we
have been unable to trace any direct com-
mimicadons between the two towns.

This old Cape Cod town vies with its
^ter Yannouth in attractions, and perhaps
suggests something of the picturesque old
English town of Sandwich on the river Stour, which was one of the Cinque-ports
of the ancient days. Nothing but a forest wilderness, reaching down to the salt
marshes which bordered the stretches of white beach, greeted the eyes of those
first settlers who early in the year 1637 chose this spot on the C^>e as a satisfactory
place "to sit down." This territory had previously been used as a trading post,
for it formed a most convenient halting place on the route between Plymouth and
the Dutch colonies of New York. Its actual settlement, however, dates to that
year, 1637, when, as stated in the old Plymouth records, "it is also agreed by the
Court that these tenn men of Saugust, viz, Edmond Freeman, Henry Feake,
Hiomas Dexter, Edward Dillingham, Wlliam Wood, John Carman, Richard
Chadwell, William Almy, Thomas Tupper, and Geoi^ Knott shall have liberty
to view a place to sitt down and have sufficient lands for three score famylies
upon the conditions propounded to them by the Governor and Mr. Winslowe."
The settlement was incorporated as a town on September 3, 1637, ^^^ named
for Sandwich in Kent County, England, where several of the early settlers once
lived. The boundary lines were established by the Puritan Captain, Miles
Standish, and his friend John Alden, when Plymouth ordered the town to be laid
out. Before the end of the year this little group of pioneers was joined by fifty
others who came chiefly from Lynn, Saugus, Duxbury and Plymouth. The
names that have ^ipeared often in the history of the town are Freeman,
Dillingham, Tuttle, Allen, Besse, Blackwell, Bodfish, Bourne, Brig^, Burgess,
Ewer, Hallett, Harlow, Holway, Sanders, Nye and Wng; the few lines of poetry
which we quote and which were written at the time of the two hundred and
fiftieth anniversary make further mention of some of the names that have meant
so much to the town: —

SANDWICH, MASSACHUSETTS

"The names of Freeman and of Bourne,

Nye, Dillingham, and their compeers;
We trace, from first to last, upon
The annals of this ancient town."

In 1908 there was erected in the village of Sandwich, in the village square
near the present town house, a large boulder shown on page 196 to which
was affixed a tablet in memory of the an-
cestors of Benjamin Nye, the earliest an-
cestor of the Nye family in this country, and
the inscription thereon reads as follows: —
1637

ERECTED BY THE NVB FAEIILY OF AMERICA

TO THE MEMORY OF THEIR ANCESTORS

BENJAMIN NYE AND

KATHARINE TUPPER HIS WIFE

WE BEST SERVE THE INTEREST OF POSTEBITY

BY TREASURING THE MEMORY OF OUR ANCESTORS

On the farm still owned by the descen-
dants of Edmond Freeman there are two
large boulders called the Saddle and Pil-
lion Rocks which mark the graves of him-
self and his wife. The tradition is that
after the death of his wife, Freeman, who
was the first settler in Sandwich of that
name, had these boulders drawn by oxen
to their present location, placing the Pil-
lion stone over the grave of his wife,
giving at the same time instructions that
the Saddle stone should be placed over his
own grave, upon his death.

Witlun a few years descendants of
Edmond Freeman and his wife have had a tablet set into each of these stones.
The inscription on the Saddle stone reads as follows: —

a fkclairaH

placed over the grave of Edmond Freeman,
who was one of the earliest settlers in out
Sajidwich, and who wal bom ii

EDltOND FREEICAN

BORN IN ENGLAND 15QO

DIED IN SANDWICH 1682

A FOUNDER OF THE TOWN OF SANDWICH IN 1637

ASSISTANT TO GOVERNOR BRADFORD

I 641-1647

During King Philip's
War, which resulted in the
devastation of so many
frontier towns, Sandwich
and several other Cape
Cod towns invited the
.ami Bt,^ It. Byitiii'v.E^. dwellers in the stricken

THE "PILLION" ROCK, SANDWICH, MASSACHUSETTS, settlements to take refuge

m»rking the grave of Edmond Freeman's wife, Elizabeth. These With them, for none of the

two stones, known as the "Saddle" and "Pillion" Rocks, are on the n^r.^ t-nluic inlmul nntk

UimBtillownedbyEdmondFreeman'BdescendanU. After thedeath '-^P^ wlDeS jomeo Wim

of his wife, Edmond Freeman placed the "Pillion" over her grave Philip in this uprising,
and directed that upon his death the "Saddle" should be placed

over his own grave. manyeven serving against

him. The friendliness on
the part of these Indians was due in no small measure to the work of the Citpe Cod
missionaries, among whom were Richard Bourne and Thomas Tupper of Sandwich.
The former settled in the town in 1637, became an instructor to the Mashpee In-
dians in 1658, and was ordained as a preacher by Eliot and Cotton in 1670. So
great was the afiFection of the Indians for this missionary and his family, that in
1733) forty-one years after his death, when a Bourne child was suffering from a
disease which the physicians believed incurable, the Indians came with their medicine
men, and, with the mother's permission, gave the child their simple remedies which
resulted in a cure. Thomas Tupper was a missionary among the Herring River
Indtaqs, and in the diary of Judge Samuel Sewall are found extracts relating to a
church which was built for the Indians at this place under Tapper's supervision,
and at the expense of Judge Sewall. This was the first meeting house in this vicinity
to be made of sound and lasting material, in the English fashion, the carpenter,
Edward Milton of Sandwich, having been ordered to build a "convenient, com-
fortable meeting-house for the natives at Sandwich" and to finish it properly,
"by making and well hanging the doors, clapboarding in the inside well and filling
the walls with shavings or other suitable matter for warmth." From that time
to the present, Sandwich has well maintained its churches. There are now five
church buildings in the village, and the sight of the spires and towers across the
meadows which meets the eye of the traveler on the railroad when approaching
the town is an inspiring one. The ^tre of the Congregational Church, although

SANDWICH, MASSACHUSETTS

Frtm a fMetrafli

Ian Fir&ii-Ritnlm,

BARBICAN, SANDWICH, ENGLAND,
a picturesque gate of the town.

somewhat reduced in dimensions, is on the same beautiful lines as that of the Park
Street Church in Boston.

There was a curious law in our Sandwich in the early days forbidding a young
man to marry until he had killed so many blackbirds, which was a condition that
was imposed in order to keep a constant ratio between the number of spinsters and
the number of poor marksmen. It was quite natural that Sandwich, situated as
it was upon the seacoast, should have become a seafaring community. Here mari-
time pursuits were carried on sometimes in defiance of the King, as in the case of
drift whales which from time immemorial had belonged to the crown. Another
reference to this industry appears in the records of the year 1702, when the town
voted to its pastor, Rev. Rowland Cotton, as part of his salary, " all such drift
whales as shall, during the time of his ministry, be driven or cast ashore within the
limits of the town, being such as shall not be killed with hands." It may be as-
sumed that some of the fimds thus diverted from the King's treasury went towards
a new Sunday gown for Madam Cotton. The revenue that the settlers derived
from a tax on mackerel was used for the support of the public school.

200 SANDWICH, MASSACHUSETTS

The Earl of Sandwich, who died in 1793, derived his title from Sandwich, Eng-
land. He was the First Liird of the Admiralty in 1778, when Captain Cook dis-
covered the Sandwich Islands, which were named for him. There is so much history
surrounding the English town that we can mention only a few of the important
events that are connectt-d with the ancient seaport, which was at one time known as
"Sondwic." Most of the pioneers who came from Kent to this country doubtless
often had visions of this sleepy, picturesque Old World town, with its ancient
churches, its crooked streets, and its high gables — the port where once the galleys of
imperial Rome lay at anchor. The town is first mentioned in 664 during the life
of St. Wilfrid, when it is related that the Bishop returning from France arrived
"happily and pleasantly" in thehavenof Sandwich, the town probably having been
founded about that time. The territory about Sandwich was reclaimed from the seas
in historic times, but it can hardly be said to be a port now, as the sands have shifted
to such a great extent. Its decline began during the Tudor days and during the reign
ot Henry VII the river diminished so much that the harbour became very poor,
while during the reign of Queen Elizabeth it was hardly used at all. Few vesseb
now go up the river Stour, and the shipping that once existed there to a considerable
degree has been abandoned. At one time the Corporation of Sandwich complained
that the people carried off too much sand that was left when the river fell; the
Corporation claimed that these persons should be sentenced to capital punishment,
but that the river had become so low it would be impossible to drown them if it
got much lower. Many more attempts were made to improve the harbour but
without much success. Soon after the time of Queen Elizabeth the town grew
very prosperous, and many serge, baize and ffannel workers came to the town,
which fact has been commented upon in England in the following words: —

"Hops, Reformation, baize and beer
Came into England all in a year."

Fortunately, as the town lost the use of its harbour, a number of Huguenots were
brought over by Queen Elizabeth from the Netherlands and they founded the in-
dustries of weaving and market-gardening, thereby causing great prosperity. It
is also said that celery was first grown in England by these new-comers to Sand-
wich. We will mention only a few names connected with the town and not neces-
sarily in chronological order. In 851, Athelstan, King of Kent, fought a battle
here against the Danes, which resulted in their defeat and the capture of nine of
their ships. A few months later, the enemy again appeared in the mouth of the
Thames with three hundred and fifty vessels, landed on the Kentish shore, and
[nllaged Sandwich and Canterbury; there is a legend that King Arthur set out
from here with his army and a great multitude of ships to give battle against Rome,
returning also to this port; here Edward the Confessor lived for some time, while
ojllecting his fleet; from here in 1 164 Thomas k Becket, after his flight from North-

SANDWICH, MASSACHUSETTS

ampton, set sdl on a fishing vessel, later
returning to the same port, where he was
received with great joy by the towns-
people; here, too, in 1 194 King Richard I
landed after imprisonment by Leopold,
Duke of Austria; here Edward III went
to rendezvous his fleet before sailing for
France. About this time a curious regu-
lation was made that the dredgers were not
allowed to sell their oysters to strangers
until all the inhabitants of Sandwich had
first been supplied. Another event that
we might mention was the arrival at Sand-
wich in 1357 of Edward the Black Prince,
with his prisoner the luckless John, King
of France, on their way from Bordeaux,
after the battle of Poitiers, Queen Eliza-
beth was so interested in the town that in
1573 she made a visit there and was re-
ceived with much ^lendor. The house
where she stayed is now used as a private
residence. In 1670, Queen Catherine
visited the town with her great cavalcade, and her visit has been commemorated
by a series of paintings which were formerly in a private house, but which have
now been removed to the Guildhall. The old town was also the resort of many
others of the royalty of England.

There is also a Sandwich in New Hampshire.

STRAND STREET, SANDWICH,
ENGLAND
Most of the streets in Sandwich are nar
and winding.

WAREHAM, MASSACHUSETTS

TIE only official correspondence between the Warehams of old England
and New England took place in 1879 at the time of the bi-centennial of
Rochester, now part of our Wareham, when Hon. Thomas Lean Skewes
of the English town wrote to our town. There is no question but that the Cape
Cod town, like many others nearby, was named after the old town in Dorset
County, England, which is a quaint, sleepy village of about two thousand inhabit-
ants, dating back to the time when the Romans held possession of England. It
is occasionally enlivened, however, at the time of the election for the local member
of Parliament, when the respective candidates address their consUtuents from the
"hustings," as they are called, where many a battle royal has been fought and many

ST. MARTIN'S CHtJRCH, WAREHAM, ENGLAND
ire example of « Soion building, having remained practically inUct for over twelve hundred yean.

WAREHAM, MASSACHUSETTS 203

a head has been broken. The town is very tranquil , as another picture on the
following page shows, and all that remains of the ancient days are the huge earth-
works of Roman construction which almost surround the town. There is also
evidence that the place was a British camp even before the Romans landed on
English soil and fortified the place.

The eastern part of Wareham, on Cape Cod, was known to the Indians as " Aga-
wam'' and was sold to the Plymouth colony in 1655, which some years later resold
it to Joseph Warren, William Clark, Joseph Bartlett, Josiah Morton, Isaac Little
and Seth Pope. The western part belonged to Rochester, and in the year 1739
both tracts of land were incorporated imder the name of Wareham. The earliest
permanent settlers, however, came from Hingham, Massachusetts, chief of them
being Israel Fearing, whose family played an important part in the history of the
town. The township was incorporated in July, 1739, the first minister chosen being
Rev. Roland Thatcher, who was born in Barnstable, Massachusetts, and who was
ordained December 26th, 1739. He was succeeded by Rev. Josiah Cotton. Other
settlers of Wareham came from Sandwich, Rochester and Barnstable, Massachu-
setts.

Wareham, at the mouth of the Frome River in Dorsetshire, occupies the site
of the old Roman station Morino, and takes its name from the Roman designation
of the town. Its fame is undoubtedly due to the fact that Horace Walpole was a
native of the town, and that from there lime and cement are exported, as well as
potter's clay, much of which is sent to America and various parts of the Continent.

An historian says: ''In Saxon times it was already a place of note, and it is
said that Beohrtric, King of Wessex, was buried here a.d. 800. During the period
of the Danish invasions those piratical marauders continually landed at Wareham,
and made it their headquarters. In 1015 Canute entered the Frome, and having
ravaged Dorset, Somerset and Wilts, and plundered Ceme Abbey, returned hither,
and sailed thence to Brownsea. At the time of the Domesday Survey the imfor-
tunate town was in very sunken fortunes, but it revived again under the rule of the
Conqueror, who appointed two mint masters here, the same number it had in the
time of iEthelstan. The strength of its position brought much misery on the in-
habitants during the struggle between Stephen and the Empress Maud. It was
seized for the latter by Robert of Gloucester in 1138. The next year Baldwin de
Redvers, one of the Empress' warmest adherents, landed here and seized Corfe
Castle. It was taken and burned by Stephen in 1 142 during the temporary absence
of the Earl of Gloucester, who on his return with yoimg Prince Henry, then a boy of
nine, retook the town and castle, the latter after an obstinate defence of three weeks.
In 1 146, when Prince Henry was forced to leave the kingdom, he took ship here for
Anjou. After this the poor town seems to have enjoyed a breathing time. John
landed here in 1205, and again eleven years later. In 1213 Peter of Pomfret, the
hermit, who had foretold the king's deposition, was brought out of his prison at

NORTH STREET, WAREHAM, ENGLAND,
showing St. Martin's Church on the right in the background.

WAREHAM, MASSACHUSETTS 205

Corfe, and, after being dragged through the streets of the town, was hanged and
quartered here.

'* During the dvil wars of the seventeenth century it again became the object
of contention between the two parties, being repeatedly taken and retaken, after
its first occupation for the Parliament in 1642. The townspeople were chiefly loyal
to the Crown. Their 'dreadful malignancy' was used as an argument by Sir
Anthony Ashley Cooper for the complete destruction of the town, as it would cer-
tainly be occupied by the royal forces on the first opportunity, unless it was 'plucked
down and made no town/ The ruin averted then was accomplished one hundred
and twenty years later, July 25, 1762, when nearly the whole town was consumed by
fire; but two years after, it rose from its ashes * fairer than before. ' ''

WOODSTOCK, VERMONT, AND WOODSTOCK, CONNECTICUT

IN St. James Episcopal Church at Woodstock, Vermont, shown in the cut, are
two carved wooden panels which came from St. Mary Magdalen's Church
in Woodstock, England. One of these panels is on each side of the chancel,
and below one is the following inscription: —

These panels were given by the Rector and Parishioners of St. Mary
Magdalen's Church Woodstock (Oxfordshire) England and once formed
a part of the eighteenth century organ loft of that ancient church.

This attractive Vermont town was named after the place of the same name in
Connecticut, which in turn was so called from the town of Woodstock in England.
The first person to settle in the Vermont town was James Sanderson, who came
there about 1670 from Leicester, Massachusetts, having previously lived in Water-
town, Massachusetts. The records show that he was chosen one of the hog drivers
of Woodstock in the year 1774.

Woodstock, Connecticut, is closely associated with Massachusetts, for we are
told that Rev. John Eliot was -wont to pray from his pulpit in Roxbury for his
parishioners, the fathers of the Connecticut town, many of whom went there from
Roxbury.

A town meeting was held in Roxbury in 1683 to arrange for the new settlement
in Connecticut, and at this meeting a number of prominent citizens drew up a
petition to the General Court of Massachusetts which was at once granted. The
following year, after the terms set forth were accepted by Roxbury, Samuel and
John Ruggles, John Curtis and Edward Morris were sent out to "view the wilder-
ness and find a convenient place." At first the settlement was called New Roxbury
after the Massachusetts town, but finally the citizens, desiring to have a name of

2o6 WOODSTOCK, VERMONT, and WOODSTOCK, CONNECTICUT

ST. JAMES CHURCH. WOODSTOCK, VERMONT
In this church are two panels given by St. ^^a^y Magdalen's Church, in Woculstock. t^ngland.

their own, adopted the suggestion of Judge Sewall, that it be called Woodstock,
his notes on this subject appearing in his diary as follows: —

" I gave New Roxbury the name of Woodstock, because of its nearness
to &ford, for the sake of Queen Elizabeth, and the notable meetings
that have been held at the place bearing that name in England, some
of which Dr. Gilbert informed me of when in England. It stands on
a Hill, I saw it as I (went) to Coventry, but left it on the left hand.
Some told Capt. Ruggles that I gave the name and put words in his
month to desire of me a Bell for the Town."

The two New England Woodstocks remember with pride their historic mother
town, which is about eight miles from the town of Oxford, and fifty odd miles from
London. The appearance of the town has hardly changed an iota during the last
three quarters of a century. Here have dwelt many of the kings of England; here
King Alfred translated Boethius' Consolations of Philosophy; and here, to the dis-
pleasure of his French wife, Eleanor, Duchess of Aquitaine, Henry II brought
the fair Rosamond, around whose name cluster so many stories which the light of
modem research has proved untrue. Algernon Charles Swinburne has made use
of one of the myths in his "Rosamond," the first scene of which is laid in
"The Maze at Woodstock," while Tennyson refers to Rosamond's terror of Queen
Eleanor in his "Dream of Fair Women." Here Becket came, and Chaucer too,

2o8 WOODSTOCK, VERMONT, and WOODSTOCK, CONNECTICUT

who laid one of his scenes in "The Dream" in the part of Woodstock; Princess
Elizabeth was also imprisoned here by her sister Mary. Tennyson also has faith-
fully reproduced the scene and the inscription made by Elizabeth on her prison
window :—

"Much suspected, of me

Nothing proved can be,

Quoth Elizabeth, Prisoner."

From this town Sir Waiter Scott, too, procured the material for his novel "Wood-
stock."

Saxon and Norman kings for centuries hunted and feasted in Woodstock. One
of the last royal banquets was held here for James II in 1687. Some years later
the palace was declared to be beyond repair, and in 1704 the royal manor of Wood-
stock was given to John Churchill, Duke of Marlborough, as a reward for his famous
victory at Blenheim, Parliament bestowed £500,000 with which to build the
present palace that bears the name of the little village where the Duke of Marl-
borough attained his victory, and in the park the trees are said to be arranged in
the order of the battle of Blenheim. The acorns from one of the oaks in this park
were collected a few years ago and sent either to Woodstock, Vermont, or to Wood-
stock, Connecticut. Much of the beauty of the modem park is due to the genius
of "Capability "Brown, the landscape gardener, who by damming the river Glyme,
formed a lovely lake on the grounds of the palace, boasting that

"The Thames will never forgive me for what
I have done at Blenheim!"

Doctor Johnson, however, who visited the park many years later, irascibly re-
marked, "The epigram has been drowned!" The present Duke of Marlborough,
Charles John Spencer Churchill, K..G., married Consuelo, the daughter of W. K.
VanderWlt, Esq., of New York.

WORCESTER, MASSACHUSETTS

WORCESTER, Massachusetts, was undoubtedly named after the Battle
of Worcester which was fought on Worcester Plains in' 1651 between
the armies of King Charles II and Cromwell. An ancient building in
old Worcester called The Commandery, founded by St. Wulfstan in 1095, is
pointed out as tlie house in which the King took refuge, and from which he escaped
by the back door. Many relics of this battle have been dug up, and in 1908 the
mother dty sent to her namesake two suits of armour which had been worn by
soldiers of King Charles in this conflict. On page 310 is a picture of one of
these suits, both of which were placed in the Mayor's office in City Hall. The

PMttraHtJ/rBm " T)U Bhlnry o«f A

," »y Vjlcnlii^ G<an. 1796

itfi by F. FrUk (T Cn.. Em^ti

WORCESTER, ENGLAND

Kiminai Uri. llaty Fi/Mi Kint

WORCESTER,

presentation of these interesting gifts was made by Col.
Albert Webb, who brought them o^'er as a donation from
the Corporation of Worcester, England, together with this
letter from the Mayor of old Worcester, Hon. John Stal-
lard:-

"The Mayor, Aldermen and citizens of the city of Worces-
ter and county of the same name in England send a hearty greet-
ing to the Mayor and Corporation of the city of Worcester in
Massachusetts, and beg their acceptance, as a token of friendly
remembrance, of the accompanying two suits of armour, form-
ing part of nine suits, which, with a brass cannon, were pre-
sented to our city by a former member of the corporation as
having been used by the soldiers of King Charles the Second
at the battle of Worcester, September 3d, 1651, and we have
intrusted Col. Albert Webb, V.D., J.P., a member of o
poraiiun to make the presentation of the said suits of armour,
with a hearty assurance of our good will toward the city of
Worcester in America. Given under our common seal this
1 6th day of October, 1908."

a fkDliitnltll ByB.B.LuLi

ONE OF "nVO SUITS
OF ARMOUR USED
IN THE BATTLE OF
WORCESTER

Worcester, Eogluid, ai a

£ resent to Worcester,
[■HacliuaettB. It ii now
in the aty Hall, Worceiter,
Manachusetts.

A committee of well-known Worcester people which in-
cluded I-ouis H. Buckley, Charles W. Stevens, Frederick
Midgley, John A. Larkin, Frederick H. Luke, George H.
Coates, Arthur B. Erunell, John P. Holmgren, Peter F.
Sullivan, Samuel S. Green and Nathaniel Paine was ap-
pointed to receive Colonel Webb, who during his visit
stayed at the house of Mr. Paine. The presentation took
place in the Mayor's room in City Hall and the gifts
were received by Hon. James Logan, who was Mayor
of Worcester at the time. Colonel Webb in his speech made the following
remarks: —

" Good-will and high esteem exist all over our country towards this great and power-
ful nation. We hope that this incident will create an always broadening movement of
cordial good feeling in America towards the mother country that will be felt even to the
^rthest confines of this continent. We wish it to be a token and a proof that only the
best of good feeling prevails in England towards America and we hope that the good-will
which now exists, and is so essential to the peace of the whole world, will be welded into
an unbreakable tie between us. I hope that you will always see in the significance of this
gift the guarantee that the two great English-speaking nations of the earth are indisso-
lubly bound together by ties of blood and friendship that nothing can sever."

Mayor Logan's reply included these words: —

"We will give these relics an honored place in our city as a memorial of the men who
fought for boUi you and us in Worcester, England, so many years ago."

The first settlers of Massachusetts at an early date began to move from the
coast towards the beautiful Lake Quinsigamond, which was the name of the set-

WORCESTER, MASSACHUSETTS

' fUmtim

Fftm V M triml Ih'TIh Biliary aiid AHlitnilui tf On Cily anJ Sxlvrbi ^ Warctsltt;' Valcilixt Gran, I7g6

NORTHEAST VIEW OF WORCESTER CATHEDRAL, ENGLAND, 1789
Some fragments (ram this cathedral were MDt to All Saints Church in Worcester, Massachusetts.

dement od the place where Wortxster now is. It was called Quinsigamond, mean-
ing "fishing place for pickerel," until 1684, when it was changed to Worcester.
There had been a settlement at Springfield and the General Court thought it desir-
able to have a place midway between this town and Boston where travelers and
horses could rest and spend the night. Daniel Gookin, Edward Johnson, Joshua
Fisher and Thomas Noyes were therefore appointed a committee in 1665 to
survey the land near the lake and to determine if there was a "meet place for a
plantation." A few years later, the committee, though somewhat changed in
personnel, reported that the place showed great prospects of being made into an
attractive village, and recommended that the Court "reserve it for a town." From
1657 to 1664 the Court made grants of this land to the church at Maiden, to
Increase Norwell of Charlestown, and to Thomas Noyes of Sudbury. The latter
sold his land to Ephraim Curtis of Sudbury, who has been considered the first
white settler of Worcester. He was the only white man between Marlboro and
Brookfield, and it is said that after a hard day's work he would sit down and, look-

ALL SAINTS CHURCH, WORCESTER, MASSACHUSETTS
In this church are lelics, shown in anotbei cut, sent u a present by Worcester Cathedral, Worcester, England.

ing towards Sudbury, in his loneliness would shed tears. He distinguished himself
later during the attack of Kin g Phih'p at Brookfield, The village, destroyed by
the Indians several years later, was rebuilt, but again was destroyed, remaining
tmoccupied until 1684, when Captain Henchman and his associates returned and
built a dtadel. Curtis' son was one of the number and has gone down in history
as the first of his family to become a permanent settler. This settlement was
again destroyed by the Indians, but was rebuilt in 1713 by Jonas Rice, who
was really responsible for the establishment of the first permanent settlement in
the town. A tablet to his memory has been placed on a boulder on Heywood
Street, the inscription reading as follows: —

On this site

In 1713

Major Jonas Rice

Made the first

Permanent Settlement

in Worcester

Placed by

The Worcester Sodety of Antiquity.

WORCESTER, MASSACHUSETTS

"3

There have been some other interchanges of presents between the two cities,
the chief one being some fragments of the Cathedral of Worcester, England, which
have been placed as an attractive decoration in the wall of the porch of All Saints
Church in our Worcester. At the time of the dispute over the Oregon boundary,
when our relations with England were somewhat strained, letters were sent from
Worcester, America, to Worcester, England, assuring them of our friendsliip, and
a cordial answer was returned, both of which are preserved in the Worcester Public
Library here. Other correspondence followed, including a letter written during the
Mexican War by friends in Worcester, England, to the superintendents, teachers and
friends of Sabbath-schools and religious education in Worcester, Massachusetts.
Same years later, in the year 1874, John Davis Washburn, representing a com-
mittee, took over to the Enghsh town a collection of books as a present. It was at
this time that the fragments from the Cathedral of Worcester were brought back to
this country, and the tablet shown in the cut below carefully describes their history.

The English Mayor a few years later
wrote to the American city as follows: —

"I truly am doubtful which is best; to
have a comfortable past behind you all
settled and arranged or afuture before you,
with all its posdbilities."

At the formal opening of the Public
Library and Hastings Museum at old
Worcester, in 1881, our minister at the
Court of St. James, Hon. James Russell
Lowell, performed the ceremony, and
the librarian of the Free Public Library
at Worcester, Massachusetts, sent a
cable of greeting to the Mayor of old
Worcester which was received as the pro-
cession was entering the building. The
English Mayor replied by cable.

At the time of the celebration of the
two hundredth anniversary of the nam-
ing of Worcester, Massachusetts, held in
1884, the Mayor of old Worcester, Hon.
W. M. Williamson, was invited to attend
the ceremonies, but owing to pressing
duties at home he was unable to accept.
Several residents of old Worcester, how-
ever, have visited the Massachusetts dty
which bears its name.

RELICS FROM WORCESTER CATHEDRAL,
WORCESTER, ENGLAND,

FRIAR STREET, WORCESTER, ENGLAND

Another Englishman who visited our Worcester was Henry Willis, and shortly
after our city sent over numerous other books and pamphlets. Samuel S.
Green also visited the English town as a representative of our Worcester, and was
received with great courtesy. It should also be mentioned that Mayor Williamson
of old Worcester viated our dty, and after his return home sent over two beautiful
albums of photographs of members of the Corporation of Worcester, England,
taken during the Jubilee year, 1887, and other presents.

English Worcester is a quaint and large cathedral city situated on both sides
of the river Severn. It became important in early English history owing to the
fact of its dose proximity to Wales which made it the scene of much fighting in re-
pelling invaders, and time after time the gallant little garrison of the town stemmed
the attacks. In 11 13 the Welsh burned the town; in ii4oit was taken by the Em-
press Maud; in 1 1 50 Stephen burned the town, but failed in his attack on the Castle*;
again in 1189 and 1202 Worcester was burned. The dty dates back to 585 A.D.,
having been built on the site of a Roman town. It was the Wigoma-ceastre of the
Saxons, from which comes Worcester, meaning "War Castle," which is an appro-
priate name, as Briton, Roman, Saxon, Dane and Norman have all fought there.
Bishops St. Dunstan and St. Oswald both lived there, the latter becoming the patron
saint of the dty. St. Oswald dedicated the Cathedral, which was destroyed and
rebuilt in the deventh century by Wulfstan 11, who was an even greater saint.
The present church in 121S was again partially rebuilt and dedicated with great

WORCESTER, MASSACHUSETTS

malCiUicllimt

WORCESTER, MASSACHUSETTS (MAIN STREET)
An old view.

pomp, St. Wulfstan's body being enshrined in the altar. In this church there abo
is a tomb of King John, which is the oldest regal tomb in England; in 1797 it was
opened to prove to archxologists that the body was really that of the king.

The Guildhall was built in 173 1 and contains many suits of armour which were
worn during the Battle of Worcester and which are similar to the ones sent to
this coimtry.

Queen Elizabeth on her visit to Worcester in 1574 granted a charter to some
dothiers, forming them into a corporation which still exists. Another item of
interest is that Sir Henry Washington who was made Governor of Worcester in
the absence of the regular Governor, while the latter was a prisoner during the
aege of Worcester, was supposed to be connected with the ancestry of Gen.
George Washington. Dean Swift was also a resident of the city.

The present Mayor of the English Worcester, Hon. Arthur Carlton, during the
war suggested that the citizens of his town "adopt" Worcester, Massachusetts,
and invite all officers and men of the American Army hailing from Worcester, and
who took part in the Great War, to visit the homes of the people of his city during
any leave of absence. This idea of the English Mayor was enlarged upon and about
three hundred towns in England "adopted" other towns in America, in most cases
choosing those of the same name as their own.

The latest expression of interest towards England was shown very recently by
the Worcester Art Museum, which assumed responsibility for, and made possible,
the toiur of the British Government Exhibition of War Pictures in this country.
The paintings were by Sir William Orpen, the well-known Irishman and other
artists of the British Empire.

YARMOUTH, MASSACHUSETTS

AT Yarmouth, England, also known as Great Yarmouth, Admiral Nebon
/\ was given the freedom of the city, and the Town Clerk, as he administered
A. \. the oath, said, "Hold up your right hand, my Lord," to which came the
reply, "That is at Teneriffe," whereupon the people renewed their shouting in
their jubilation over the recent successes of the British Navy. It is said that
Yarmouth watched the Admiral's career with unusual interest, and it is certain
that on this visit the people showed special enthusiasm, for they took the horse*
from his carriage and themselves drew him through the crowded streets of the
town. This incident took place in 1800 after the battle of the Nile, and to the
present time the Nelson room in the "Old Star Hotel" on the Quay is pointed out
with interest to the visitor, as Nelson is said to have lodged there on another occa-
sion when he landed at that seaport. The panelling from the Nelson room was
sold to an American some years ago and is beheved now to be in Washington, D.C.
This hotel was not used always as an inn, having been built in the last part of the
sixteenth century by William Crowe as his private residence.

Many jokes have been made about Yarmouth and its herrings, it having often
been said that the town was "built upon herring bones." Another person in
describing it said it was known for its herrings and excursionists, while still another
writer in speaking of its herring fishery says, "It is the worthiest herring fishery in
Europe, which draweth great concourse of people, wHch maketh the town much
richer all the year following, but very unsavory for the time." Once a year Yar-
mouth used to hold a herring fair. At one time this port registered six hundred
and thirty-one sailing vessels, and claimed that its herring nets, added to those
owned by the nearby town of Lowestoft, would stretch over two hundred miles.
Certainly the Yarmouth bloater has made a world-wide reputaUon, although in
the old days it was claimed that there was so much smuggling between Holland
and the English coast that spirits were sometimes more profitable than fishing.
On the town arms are three herrings with lions' heads, a symbol of the prosperity
of the town and also a recognition of loyalty to the King.

It was the beachmen's colony in Yarmouth that especially attracted the atten-
tion of Dickens; these beachmen used to derive their living from salvaging boats
that went ashore o£f the Yarmouth coast, and according to one of the historians
of the town the customary prayer of the children of this little colony was, "Pray
God send daddy a good ship ashore before morning." There are many people in
Yarmouth who remember Dickens' "Mr. Peggotty's house," which was an old
ship on the beach where he Uved. Dickens must have been very fond of the town,
because he is said to have made the remait that if one had a grudge against any
particular insurance company the best way to gratify it would be to buy a large
annuity and then retire to Yarmouth to live.

YARMOUTH, MASSACHUSETTS

Frrm an M trial; HMtfatkbyAlffiYaiiiit Kind,

THE QUAY, YARMOUTH. ENGLAND,
U it looked in 1S14. shoning Custom-HouK and Town House. The Quay a

In the town there are many quaint houses, which have a very foreign appear-
ance, resemblii^ very much the old buildings of Amsterdam and Rotterdam;
David Copperfield himself thought they looked very Dutch, also saying that "if
land had been a little more separated from the sea and the town and the tide had
not been quite so mixed up, like toast and water, it would have been much nicer,"
but after he had smelt the fish, pitch, oakum and tallow, and had seen the sailors
walking about, he said he felt he had done the place aji injustice. Characteristic
of the town are the numerous "Rows," or narrow alleys, one of which, called
"Kitty Witches," is at one point only twenty-nine inches wide.

An interesting visitor to Yarmouth was Charles II who was received there in
1671, and who was presented with four herrings made of gold. with ruby eyes.
These few words describe his visit : —

" Yarmouth had first (0, more than happy portl)
The honour to receive the King and Court,
And entertain, season providing dishes,
The King of England with the king of fishes!"

It may be interesting also to mention that Governor Winthrop in the "Arbella"
sailed from this port, while still another occasion of interest was a diimer along the
Quay which was held in 1814 to celebrate the restoration of King Louis XVIII of

THE QUAY, YARMOIJTH. ENGLAND

France. There was a curious superstition in the town that when an old maid died
the steeple nodded.

The old seaport contains one of the largest parish churches in England, Herbert
de Lozenga, the first Norman Bishop of Norwich, being responsible for its erection
in iioi. It is dedicated to St. Nicholas, the patron saint of fishermen. It is
claimed that the people of Yarmouth have some Danish fighting blood in their
veins, but however thW may be, they have always proved great fishermen, sailors
and fighters. At one time the town also pursued both the cod and whale fisheries.

Yarmouth is situated on a peninsula at the mouth of the Yare River, from
which, of course, it gets its name. Much of the land was marsh land and was
eaten away by the sea, which caused an old salt once to remark quite truthfully
that "it would take a heap of money to make us quite safe." Much of the land,
however, has been reclaimed, and many cattle now graze on pastures where Roman
galleys once sailed.

When the Dutch lived in the. town the friendship between them and the other
residents of Yarmouth was so strong that the Yarmouthites inaugurated what they
called a "Dutch" Sunday, which was the Sunday before September 21st, when the
herring fishing began. This important event began with a ceremony called " Wetting

YARMOUTH, MASSACHUSETTS 219

the Nets," the nature of which is easily guessed. Of course, the Dutchmen arrived
in time for this important occasion, and Nail, the Yarmouth historian, quotes the
words of an eye-witness to their arrival: "With the afternoon's tide the Dutchmen
began to enter the haven's mouth; and it was pleasing to see them proceed, one
after the other, up the river to the town. ... Of these vessels about fifty came up
this year. All of them arrived in the course of Friday evening; and at night I
took a walk to view them by moonlight. The odd line of masts, exactly uniform;
the yards and furled sails disposed in a regular row, the crews sitting on deck with
their pipes, calmly enjoying their repose, and conversing in a strange tongue,
impressed the imagination in a forcible but pleasing manner; the quiet and order
which reigned among so large a number was much to be admired. On Saturday
the streets were sprinkled with parties of Dutchmen, easily distinguished by their
round caps, short jackets and most capacious breeches. . . . On the ensuing Sun-
day, called 'Dutch Sunday' all the country round, as far as Norwich, flocked to
see the show. The Dutch did honour to their visitors by decorating their schuyts
with flags in the gayest manner they were able. The whole length of the quay
was crowded by people of all ranks, in their best apparel. ... It was a view
equally striking and singular, and not to be matched in any part of the kingdom."
"Dutch Simday" is now an obsolete festival, and the Dutchmen no longer "wet
theirnets" at Yarmouth; but they still come here and to Lowestoft in considerable
nimibers at Christmas for pickled herring, and then look very like their f orenmners
of a century and a half ago. They are still distinguished by their " round caps, short
jackets, and most capacious breeches." The Great Yarmouth Public Library
possesses many books, pamphlets, prints and photographs relating to our Yar-
mouth and sent over by our town.

Yarmouth on Cape Cod is one of the most beautiful towns on the Cape, and
at one time included not only the present Yarmouth but also Dennis, which was
made a separate township in 1794. The First Church of Yarmouth was founded
in 1639, the early ministers in their order being Rev. Marmaduke Matthews, Rev.
John Miller, Rev. Thomas Thornton and Rev. John Cotton, a grandson of John
Cotton. It is particularly interesting to learn that one himdred and ninety-one
Indians attended this little church during the pastorates of Miller and Thornton.
The names of those to whom the first grant was made were Antony Thacher
(usually spelled Anthony), Thomas Howes and John Crow, who proceeded at once
to organize the town, erecting a fort at Fort Hill near the old cemetery. Anthony
Thacher was the oldest settler of the town and the most helpful man in the colony,
his descendants being among the leading citizens of Yarmouth and Boston at the
present day. The farm now owned by a member of the family, Hon. Thomas C.
Thacher, belonged to his ancestor, and in his memory in 1905 he and others of his
family placed a stone on the supposed site of the old house; the inscription reads
as follows: —

Vtf* h F- Ftak 6- Co.. £>i(laMf XiWwi Ian .

GREY FRIARS ROW, YARMOUTH, ENGLAND
Theie very namiw "Rows," or alleys, ate chantcteriitic of the town.

YARMOUTH, MASSACHUSETTS 221

Near this Site Lived and Was Buried

Antony Thacher

He came to America in 1635

from Somersetshire England.

Shipwrecked on Thacher's Island 1635.

Settled in Yarmouth 1639.

Three years later the Thacher family gave to the town a road called the Thacher

Shore Road, built over what is supposed to be the location of the old Colonial

road laid out by the early settlers of Yarmouth. Much of it runs through the

Anthony Thacher farm. There is an inscription on a tablet placed at its eastern

end, worded as follows: —

Thacher Shore Road

Given to the Town of Yarmouth

in memory of

Henry C. Thacher

by his wife and children

1908

Thomas Howes later went to North Dennis, where a memorial shaft was set up

in 1834 to his memory in the old Howes burial ground and, as it was one of the

earliest monuments to the early settlers erected in this country, we give the

inscription: —

Thus from the central part of Britton's isle they came
And on Columbia's soil did propigate a name
We their descendants the Patriarch own
And to the first Howes do dedicate this stone.
This moniunent was erected in 1834, etc.

Richard Sears, usually referred to as "The Pilgrim," was another important man in
the history of the Cape and particularly at Yarmouth and Chatham, where in the
cemeteries of these towns monuments have been set up to the memory of himself
and his descendants. He married Dorothy Thacher, the daughter of Anthony,
and is said to have attended the Yarmouth church for twenty-three years. This
Richard Sears, the founder of the American line, sought refuge in Leyden and in
1630 sailed for the New World, landing at Plymouth in May of the year 1630. In
1643 h^ removed to Yarmouth. The monument at Yarmouth bears the follow-
ing inscription: —

Sacred to the memory of

Richard Sears,

Son of John Bourchier Sears and

Marie L. Van Egmont,

In lineal descent from

Richard Sears of Colchester

And Ann Bourchier Knyvet,

England.

He landed at Plymouth in 1630.

Married Dorothy Thacher,

And died in Yarmouth in

1676.

YARMOUTH, MASSACHUSETTS

233

There are also tablets on this moDu-
ment to the memory of his three sons,
Knyvet, Paul and Sylas. The monu-
ment in the Chatham cemetery, which
is similar in form to the one in Yar-
mouth, bears inscriptions to the mem-
ory of Daniel Sears, a grandson of
Richard Sears, and other descendants
of "The Pilgrim."

The original family name in Eng-
land was Scearstan, the more modem
spelling having been Sarre, Syer, Bayer,
Saers, Sayers and Searston. There is
a village on the Isle of Alney, in the
county of Gloucester, named Scearstan,
The family of Sayers or Sears is to be
found in the vicinity of Colchester in
the county of Essex, this branch being
the direct descendants of Adam Sare,
whose great-grandson served in Parlia-
ment for the town and port of Sand-
wich. Members of this family appear
frequently on the early records of Col-
chester, one John Sayer having held
the office of Alderman. There is a
monument and many tablets to the
Sears family in the parish church of St.
Peter in Colchester, England. On the
two hundred and fiftieth armiversary
of the foimding of the Massachusetts
town, which was held in 1889, one of the descendants of Richard Sears, Philip
Howes Sears, waa the orator of the day. One of the inscriptions over the lunch
tent on this occasion was "Mattacheese 1639 — Yarmouth 1889," the former word
being the Indian name of the town. Another inscription on the tent was the
motto, "We will our celebration keep," which were the words of King Henry IV.
It is especially interesting to mention that our Yarmouth was as much Interested
in whaling as its forefathers in the old town in Britain, and has also furnished
many shipmasters and sailors. It is also interesting to record that Yarmouth,
Barnstable and Sandwich were all founded on the same day, as one orator at the
Yarmouth celebration pointed out, and which fact, he said, may have prevented
his making two more speeches. The following lines written by Mrs, Mary M.

He was the founder of the American line of Sean,
coming to Massachusetts in i6]o. Some of bis de-
scendants settled at Chatham, among them being
bis grandson, Daniel Sears, over whose gtave a mon-
ument similar to the one tn Yarmouth has been
erected. The name of Se*r8 is closely associated
with the earlv historv of Cape Cod. Richard
Sears married Dorothy, daughter of Antony
Thacher of Yarmouth, Massachusetts, one of the
first three gtantees of land in that town.

YARMOUTH, MASSACHUSETTS

Bray at the time of this celebration tell
quaint Cape Cod town: —

"We search the records once again and read
The names of those who pioneered the way,
Hallett and Matthews, Tliacher, Howes and Crow,
Simpkins and Ryder, Taylor, Sears and Gray."

Other lines written for the occasion we also quote:^

"We lift the Pilgrims' war cry still

For freedom and for God,

And wear as proudest title yet

The sons of old Cape Cod."

NAMES

From Somerset and Devon,
From York and Worcestershire,

The younger sons came sailing
With hearts of steel and fire.

From leafy lane and valley.

Fair glebe and ancient wood.
The counties of old England

Poured forth their warmest blood.

Out of the grey-walled cities,

Away from the castled towns.
Comers of thatch and roses,

Heathery combes and downs,

With neither crown nor penny,

But an iron will they came;
Heirs of an old tradition

And a good old English name.

A stark great ^ence met them

On a nameless, savage shore;
But they called the wild, — "New England,"

For the sake of the blood they bore.

"Plymouth, Exeter, Bristol,

Boston, Windsor, Wells."
Beloved names of England

Rang in their hearts like bells.

NAMES 225

They named their rocky farmlands,

Their hamlets by the sea,
For the mother-towns that bred them,

In racial loyalty.

''Cambridge, Hartford, Gloucester,

Hampton, Norwich, Stowe."
The younger sons looked backward

And sealed their sonship so.

The old blood thrills in answer.

As centuries go by,
To names that meant a challenge,

A signal, or a sigh.

Now- over friendly oceans

The old tow^ns, each to each,
Call with the kinship in a name ;

One race, one truth, one speech.

This poem, ** Names," is used by permission of Miss Abbie Farwell Brown, from
her new volume of verses, *' Heart of New England."

END OF PART I

TOWNS

OF

NEW ENGLAND

AND

d^lb Cnglanb,

IRELAND and SCOTLAND

^TA%T II ^

Connecting Links between Cities and Towns

of New England and Those of the Same

Name in England, Ireland and Scotland

Containing Narratives, Descriptions,

and Many Views, some done

from Old Prints

Also much Matter pertaining to

W^t :f ounbers! anb Settlers! of ^eto ^ngfanb

and to their Memorials on both sides of the Atlantic

Written by Allan Forbes and

Printed to Commemorate The Tercentenary of

THE LANDING of the PILGRIMS

PUBLISHED BY

NEW YORK AND LONDON
MCMXXI

This Work

was planned and prepnied

by (lirectiiin and under the auspi

The SriTE Stbeex Tbust Company

Boston, Massachusetts

U.S. A.

It wa^ hut natural that the Lion
and the I iikorn should have been used
on tht Olil Stale House for decorative pur.
piwcs whi-n the building was first erected before
the Declaration of Independence. At the time that
the name of King Street was changed to State Street,
the iirijjina! figures were destroyed, being replaced, however,
when the building was restored in i88.'. Still again there was
a ciiangc due to the fact thai the old wooden figures began to decav,
necessitating the substitution, soon after igoo, of the present ones, which
are made of copper. The wooden Lion and Unicom now beautify a lawn in
Chestnut Hill, on the outskirts of Boston, The Lion and the Unicom are called
in heraldic terms "supporters," for the reason that they are the figures placed on either
side of a coat of arms shiefd, suggesting their support of it. They seem to have been origi-
nally introduced by the engravers of seals purelj; from an artistic point of view to fill up the
space between the shield of arms and the circle in which it is usually set, but they have nothing
to do with the coat of arms itself. The Unicom is a favorite "supporter" in Scottish heraldry,
having first appeared about the year 1480. In 1505 it is recorded that the Scottish
Arms were supported by two Unicorns. As late as the year 17G6 the Unicom was
still placed on the right, but after the Union it became the left supporter, the
Lion being the right supporter. The Unicorn is, of course, a fabulous ani-
mal. The earliest heraldic lion known is the rampant lion of Flanders,
which appeared in the seal of Richard I. These two present sup-
porteis of the shield of the United Kingdom were introduced
by King James 1 of England and VI of Scotland on his
accession to the throne of England in 1603 and have
remained unchanged to this day. Before this date,
however, supporters were constantly being
changed. A picture of the Old State
House, upon which appear the Lion
and the Unicom, is on page 39,

PriKUditiiitUniUdSt

TABLE OF CONTENTS

PAGE

Boston, Massachusetts 17

Athol, Massachusetts 40

Attleboro, Massachusetts 44

Biddeford, Maine 50

Braintree, Massachusetts 52

Bridgewater, Massachusetts 55

Brighton, Massachusetts 59

Coventry, Connecticut 59

Dover, Massachusetts 65

Exeter, New Hampshire 69

Framingham, Massachusetts 72

Greenwich, Connecticut 77

Haverhill, Massachusetts 80

Hull, Massachusetts 87

Ipswich, Massachusetts 89

Lancaster, Massachusetts 97

Lincoln, Massachusetts 100

Londonderry, New Hampshire 102

Lynn, Massachusetts 106

Maiden, Massachusetts 115

Manchester, New Hampshire 118

Medford, Massachusetts 123

Newbury, Massachusetts 125

Newcastle, New Hampshire 135

New London, Connecticut 138

Oxford, Massachusetts 148

Reading, Massachusetts 152

Rowley, Massachusetts 155

Salisbury, Massachusetts 162

Sherbom, Massachusetts 164

Springfield, Massachusetts 170

Stratford, Connecticut 176

Sudbury, Massachusetts 183

Taunton, Massachusetts 185

Topsfield, Massachusetts 192

Waltham, Massachusetts 194

Warwick, Massachusetts and Rhode Island 197

Watertown, Massachusetts 203

Wejrmouth, Massachusetts 205

Winchester, Massachusetts 209

Windsor, Maine, New Hampshire, Vermont, Massachusetts and Connecticut 212

Wobum, Massachusetts 214

York, Maine 218

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

May Sheep Fair, Boston, LincolnshirL', England Frontispiece

Map of England showing English Towns mentioned in Part I and in Part II

Opposite foreword

St. Botolph's Church, Boston, England i6

Small Box sent in 1919 to Hon. Andrew j. Peters. Mayor of Boston, New England, by

hb Worshipful A. Cooke Yarborough, Mayor of Old Boston, England 18

Old Seals of Boston, England iq

Message from the Mayor of Boston. I'.iigland, to the Mayor of Boston, Massachusetts ao

Section of Railing from the Guildhall, Boston, England ji

Memorial to John Cotton in the First Church, Boston, Massachusetts 23

Cotton Chapel (formerly called Founders Chapel) in St. Botolph's Church, Boston,

England 2;

Boston, Lincolnshire, England id

Tracery Window from St, Botolph's in the cloister of Trinity Church, Boston, Massa-
chusetts 28

Memorial Tablet in Cotton Chapel, St. Botolph's Church, England 29

Loving Cup, formerly the property of the Corporation of Boston, England 30

Coat of Arms of Boston, England 31

Tablet in Guildhall, Boston, England 32

The Guildhall, Boston. England a

The Pulpit in St. Botolph's Church, Boston, England 34

Figure of St. Botolph on St. Botolph's Church, Boston, England 35

Boston, England, from the Tower of St. Botolph's Church 36

Boston, England 36

Statue of Anne Hutchinson in the State House, Boston, Massachusetts 37

Tatlet on Boston Common recording its Purchase from William Blackstone, First Settler

in Boston, Massachusetts 38

The Old State House, Boston, Massachusetts 39

High School Building, Athol, Massachusetts 41

Blair Castle, Blair AthoL, Perthshire, Scotland 42

William Blackstone Memorial in Lonsdale, Rhode Island 45

St. Mary's Church, Attleborough, England 46

Second Congregational Church, Attleboro, Massachusetts 48

Stone in Second Congregational Church, Attleboro, Massachusetts 49

Memorial Tablet at Winter Harbour, now Biddeford Pool, Maine 51

Bideford, England 52

Tablet placed by the Quincy Chapter of the Daughters of the American Revolution, in

Quincy, Massachusetts S3

Braintrec, Essex, England 54

Bridgewater, England 56

Brighton, England 58

A Recent View of Brighton, England 58

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE

Coventry, England 6i

The Davenport House, Coventry, England 62

EflBgy of Peeping Tom, King's Head Hotel, Coventry, England 63

Dover, England 66

Embarkation of Henry VIII at Dover in 1520 67

Dover Castle, Dover, England 68

Replica of the Coat of Arms of Exeter, England, in the Administration Building of

Phillips-Exeter Academy, Exeter, New Hampshire 6g

Administration Building of Phillips-Exeter Academy, Exeter, New Hampshire .... 70

Exeter Cathedral, Exeter, England 70

The Exe Bridge, Exeter, England 71

Framlingham Church, Framlingham, England 73

Framlingham Castle, Suffolk, England 75

Greenwich Hospital, Greenwich, London, England, now the Royal Naval College ... 78

Address from Haverhill, England, to Haverhill, Massachusetts 81

Shield sent by Haverhill, Massachusetts, to Haverhill, England, in 1890 82

Memorial Tablet in the Parish Church, Haverhill, England 83

Parish Church, Haverhill, England 85

Withersfield Road, Haverhill, England 86

Hull, England 88

Clock presented to the First Church of Ipswich, Massachusetts 90

St. Matthew's Gate, Ipswich, Suffolk, England 91

Great White Horse Hotel, Ipswich, England 92

The Ancient House, Ipswich, England 94

Tablet on the South Green, Ipswich, Massachusetts 96

South View of the Gateway Tower of Lancaster Castle, Lancaster, England 98

Prescott Tablet in Old Burying-field, Lancaster, Massachusetts 99

Lincoln, England, from the River Wit ham loi

A View on Castle Hill, Lincoln, England 102

An Irish Jaunting Car 103

Londonderry, Ireland 104

Shaft over the Grave of Rev. Samuel Whiting, the First Minister of Lynn, Massachu-
setts, in West Lynn Cemetery, Lynn, Massachusetts 107

St. Margaret's Church, Lynn Regis, England 108

St. Stephen's Church, Lynn, Massachusetts 109

Stone sent by St. Margaret's Church, King's Lynn no

Lynn Regis, Norfolk, England 112

Maldon, Essex, England 116

All Saints Church, Maldon, Essex, England 117

City Hall, Manchester, England 1 19

Old Derryfield Meeting House 120

Manchester, England 121

Meaford, Staffordshire, England 124

All Saints Church, West Newbury, Massachusetts 128

St. Nicholas Church, Newbury, England 129

Stone marking Landing Place of the First Settlers, 1635, on Parker River, Newbury,

Massachusetts 130

Ship Monument placed on the Oldtown Lower Green in Newbury, Massachusetts . . 131

i

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

NewburypoTl, Massachusetts, in 184;, from Salisbury 131

Newbury Street, Newbury, England , 133

Jack of Newbury's House, Newbury, England 134

A Street in Newcastle. New Hampshire 136

Newcastle, New Hampshire 137

Old Town Grist Mill, New London, Connecticut 140

Abraham Lincoln 141

Statue of John Winthrop, the Younger, in New London, Connecticut 142

A Rare Old View of the Tower of Lonfloji and the Mint 144

A Rare Old View of the House of Lords and Commons, London 146

Huguenot Monument, Oxford, Massjthusetts 149

Oxford, England, showing the Cathedrid and Radclifl Library 150

Reading Abbey, Reading, England 153

St. Giles's Church, Reading, England 154

Rowley Church, Rowley, England 156

Monument in the Old Cemetery in Rowley, Massachusetts 157

Communion Cups given by Rev. Ezekiel Rogers and Others in Rowley Church, Rowley,

Massachusetts 159

Tablet in Rowley, Massachusetts ibo

Rowley, Yorkshire, England 161

Salisbury, England 163

Long Street and Conduit, Sherborne, England 167

Sherborne, England, and Sherborn, Massachusetts 168

Sherborne Castle, Sherborne, England 169

Pynchon Family Memorial in the Feabody Cemetery, Springfield, Massachusetts ... 170

All Saints Church, Springfield, Esses County, England 171

All Saints Church, Springfield, Massachusetts 172

The Pynchon Tablet in Writtle. England 173

Interior of the Church in Wraysbury, England 173

Old View of Court Square, Springfield, Massachusetts 174

Shakespeare Fountain, Stratford -on- A von, England 177

Shakespeare's Birthplace, Stratford-on-Avon, England 178

Stratford Library, Stratford, Connecticut 179

Shakespeare Window in the Stratford Library, Stratford, Connecticut 180

Gainsborough's Birthplace in Sudbury, England 184

Judge Edmund H, Bennett, First Mayor of Taunton, Massachusetts, on a visit to Dun-

ster Castle, near Taunton, Somersetshire, England 186

Monument in Mt. Pleasant Cemetery, Taunton, Massachusetts 187

Old View of Taunton, England 188

Message seat by Taunton, Massachusetts, to Taunton, England, in i88g 189

Taunton Castle, Taunton, England iqi

Toppesfield, England 192

St. Margaret's Church, Toppesfield, England 193

Waltham Abbey, Waltham, England 196

Warwick Castle, Warwickshire, England 198

The Harvard Surgical Unit, at Warwick Castle, Warwickshire, England 199

Leicester Hospital, Warwick, England 201

Church of St. John the Baptist, Halifa«, Yorkshire, England 303

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE

Nether Saltonstall, near Halifax, England 203

The Old Chapel, Over Saltonstall, near Halifax, England 204

Unveiling of the John Endicott and Richard Clark Memorial in Weymouth, England,

in 1914 206

Bronze Medallion placed on the Memorial in Weymouth, England 207

Weymouth Bay, Weymouth, England 208

Temporary Memorial placed in Winchester Cathedral, Winchester, England 210

Winchester Cathedral, Winchester, England 211

House in Winchester, England, where Jane Austen lived and died 212

Windsor Castle 213

Wobum Abbey, Woburn, England 215

Town Hall and George Street, Woburn, England 216

York, England 219

York Cathedral, York, England 220

The Shambles, York, England 221

City Walls, York, England 222

St. Budeaux Church, near Plymouth, England, in which is the Memorial to Sir Ferdi-

nando Gorges 222

Church at Long Ashton, England, in which Sir Ferdinando Gorges was buried 224

Crossed Swords of Colonel William Prcscolt and Captain John Linzee 225

ENGLAND,

showing by capital letters and dots within the circles, location of the English towns mentioned in Part I

and in Part 11.

FOREWORD

THIS book, as in the case of Part I, has been compiled by the State Street
Trust Company with the object in view of placing before the people of New
England, in commemoration of the Tercentenary of the Landing of the
Pilgrims, information concerning those cities and towns in New England which
have been named for places in England, Ireland and Scotland. The work en-
deavors to relate the experiences of the early settlers, to make dear the origin of
the names of the new communities and to record the connecting links between
places in the old country and their New England namesakes. The sketches of the
early history of these cities and towns in New England include pictures and in-
scriptions of many tablets and memorials on both sides of the Atlantic which con-
nect places of the same name in New England and Great Britain, together with
many photographs and prints of interest.

The Trust Company has endeavored to include in this volume the most im-
portant cities and towns in New England which were named after those in England,
Ireland and Scotland and which were not included in Part I. The places described
last year were Plymouth and Southampton, Andover, Barnstable, Bath, Belfast,
Beverly, Bristol, Cambridge, Chatham, Chelmsford, Dartmouth, New Bedford
and Bedford, Dedham, Dorchester, Dublin, Falmouth, Gloucester, Groton, Hart-
ford, Harwich, Hingham, Mehose, Northampton, Norwich, Portsmouth and Rye,
Sandwich, Wareham, Woodstock, Worcester and Yarmouth.

There are a few towns in the New England States which, for lack of space, it
has been necessary to omit from both Part I and Part II, but we believe that we
have described in the two volumes most of the important places in New England
which have cotmections with the places in the British Isles whence they derived
their names.

We have thought it fitting to begin Part 11 with Boston, the other towns follow-
ing alphabetically.

The issuance of this book, which is the seventeenth annual publication of the
Company presenting a collection of matters pertaining to the history of New
England, not easily obtainable in books of reference now extant, is several months

ahead of the usual time in order that it may appear during the season when there
will be many pilgrimages from all parts of the world to the places in New England
associated with the early history of the Pilgrims.

We repeat here that the idea was suggested to us by Walter R. Whiting, Esq.,
who showed us several pamphlets written by Rev. Louis C. Cornish showing the
connecting links between Hingham, Massachusetts, and Hingham, England.

The Company is very grateful for the assistance given by the Mayors of
the towns in the British Isles, heads of Museums and of Historical Sodeties who
contributed much valuable material but all of whose names, unfortunately, we do
not have.

The Trust Company wishes to give credit again to Ian Forbes-Robertson, Esq.,
of Farnham, Surrey, England, who gave such valuable assistance concerning the
places in Great Britain and who obtained most of the pictures of points of interest
in those towns, for without such help as his these two volumes could not have been
compiled.

The Trust Company, too, is indebted to the late Oscar Fay Adams, who com-
piled a liistory of many towns in Great Britain but who unfortunately died before
it could be published. This material was presented to us through the kindness of
Miss Abbie Farwell Brown and Miss M. B. Lazenby. His manuscript was of great
help in checking the information concerning these towns across the water and it is
fitting that Us work and his name should share in the preparation of these two
publications.

Thanks are due to Mayors of our cities, Selectmen of towns, officials of Libraries
and Historical Societies and other residents of places in New England who have
forwarded to the Trust Company for examination letters, records {in many cases
original documents) and photographs; to these persons the Trust Company and
the readers of this book are especially indebted. It has been our endeavor to
remember all who have assisted us, and we have included these in a list below.
There may be others, however, who, through the great volume of correspondence,
may have been overlooked, and to these persons the Trust Company offers both its
apologies and its thanks.

Much credit is due likewise to Perry Walton, Esq., of the Walton Advertising
and Printing Company, who has assisted in compiling and arranging all our publica-
tions for the past sixteen years, and to his efficient staff which includes Josephine
Sullivan, Hans Eberhard, Mary N. Cornell, Cornelia Randall, Ruth P. Wedge
and William Bond Wheelwright. Thanks are also due for the assistance given
by Mrs. Louise Ames Norman.

At the suggestion of a number of readers of Part I of this commemorative
series, the author of both books has reluctantly subscribed his name at the end of
this Foreword and wishes at the same time to add that he was assisted in their
preparation by Ashton L. Carr, Vice President of the Trust Company, by Ralph

FOREWORD II

M. Eastman, Assistant to the President, by Miss Edith E. Olson of the Trust
Company staff and by Miss Florence H. Cabot, now Mrs. Herman H. Fardelman.

The Trust Company thanks the people of New England for the appreciation
with which Part I was received and trusts this one, its successor, will prove equally
interesting. Although these books were prepared to commemorate the Tercen-
tenary of the landing of the Pilgrims, and are of special interest to Americans,
they also appeal to the peoples of the British Empire. This has been shown by
the demand for Part I from all parts of the English-speaking world, and it is hoped
that these books will cement a closer friendship between the two nations.

We would like again to thank his Excellency, Governor Calvin Coolidge, now
Vice President of the United States, and his former Secretary, Henry F. Long, Esq.,
and also the many other persons who helped us on last yearns book and who were
thanked in the Foreword of Part I.

In the preparation of this year's volume we are indebted especially to Hon.
Andrew J. Peters, Mayor of Boston, and his Secretary, E. V. B. Parke, Esq., who
helped us in regard to Boston. We also wish to thank Rt. Rev. Bishop Lawrence
for valuable help given us in connection with interchanges between churches in the
two countries; Rev. William S. Key, formerly of Boston, England; Charles F.
Belden, Esq., Otto Fleischner, Esq., and other officials and clerks of the Boston
Public Library, for untiring efforts in procuring information of value for this book;
also Mrs. Mary Fifield King, Walter K. Watkins, Esq. and George Francis Dow,
Esq., for a number of pictures of towns in Great Britain.

The list of those who helped us on dififerent cities and towns is appended.

Boston: Thomas Tileston Baldwin, Abbie Farwell Brown, Rev. Howard N. Brown,
George W. Coleman, Frederic H. Curtiss, Rev. William H. Dewart, Henry H. Edes, Rev.
Prescott Evarts, P. K. Foley, J. Pennington Gardiner, Edward M. Hartwell, Rev. W. S.
Key, Fred H. Kimball, Rt. Rev. William Lawrence, Rev. Alexander Mann, Robert Treat
Paine, Rev. Charles E. Park, Charles F. Read, Henry B. Sawyer, Ralph A. Stewart,
Charles H. Taylor, Jr., Julius H. Tuttle, Rev. William Harman van ADen.

Athol: Duke of Atholl (Blair AthoU, Scotland), William G. Lord, Pearl L. Mason,
William B. McSkimmon, F. E. Wing. Attleboro: Mrs. Walter M. Kendall, Walter O.
Lochner, Rev. Charles H. Pennoyer, Mrs. Lucinda F. Spofford, Mrs. Joseph L. Sweet.

BmDEFOHD: Walter H. Bradley, Frank C. Deering, Rev. George A. Gordon, Emma
Hatch, E. L. Morrill, Burton H. Winslow. Braintree: Marion S. Arnold, Mrs. Caroline
A. Bill, Charles H. Taylor, Jr. Bridgewater: Lucia L. Christian, Joshua E. Crane.

Coventry: William L. Higgins, Mrs. W. R. Thurber.

Dover: Clara P. Atkinson, Arthur G. Fuller, C. H. Garland, Corwin McDowell,
Augustin H. Parker, Frank Smith.

Exeter: Edmund S. Boyer, Miss Carrie W. Byington, Minnie T. Knight, Harry V.
Lawrence, Winifred L. MacKay, Dr. Edward O. Otis.

Framingham: Nathaniel I. Bowditch, Peter N. Everett, John M. Merriam.

12 FOREWORD

Greenwich: H. Ashton Crosby, Erwin Edwards, Spencer P. Mead, Major Evelyn
Wrench, Dr. James F. Muirhead.

Haverhill: Paul E. Gray, Daniel M. Gurleen (Haverhill, England), John G. Moulton,
Leonard W. Smith, C. S. Whittier. Hull: John H. Grout (.American Consul, Hull,
England), Charles H. Pearson, T. Sheppard (HuU, England).

Ipswich: Francis R. Appleton, Joseph I. Horton, Herbert W. Mason, Mrs. Augustus
N. Rantoul, Augustus N. Rantoul, the late T. Franklin Waters.

Lancaster: Virginia M. Kv_\(.'^, Mrs, Nathaniel Thayer. Lincoln: Mrs. John P.
Bowditch, John P. Bowditch, J\l(iorfield Storey, George G. Tarbell. Londonderry:
A. E. Cudworth, Norreys Jephsoii O'Conor. LvNff : John Albree, Luther Atwood, Major
Coxon (Lynn Regis, England), lion. Walter H. Creamer, R. M. De Connis, Francis
Gray, Mrs. G. G. Hammond, Joseph F. Hannan, B. N. Johnson, Rev. W. Appleton
Lawrence, Walter R. Whiting.

Malden: Hon. Charles M. Blodgett, A. L. Clarke (Maldon, England), Dr. Gtidfrey
Ryder, F. A. Shove, W. G. A. Turner. Manchester, New Hampshire: E. Howard
George, Alfred S. Jewett, H. A. McEhvain, A. W. Phmncy, C. W. Sutton (Manchester,
England), Miss F. Mabel Winchdl. Medford: N. Penrose Hallowell, Moses W. Mann.

Newbury: Miss Susan Ilsley Adams, Harriette E. Jones, Rev. Herbert Edwin Lom-
bard, Rev. Glenn Tilley Morse, Mrs. F. S. Moseley, J. B. Shearer, Rev. Arthur H. Wright.
Newcastle: Wallace Hackett, William D, Turner. New London: M. M. Baker, Miss
Elizabeth Gorton, P. Le Roy Harwood, Dr. J. F. Muirhead, Ernest E. Rogers, Major
Evelyn Wrench.

Oxford: Everett Carleton, William Arthur Dupee, Mrs. Clara A. Fuller, Dr. Elliott
P. Joslin, Mrs. William B. Scofield, Harry Worcester Smith, Benjamin H, Stone,
Stead W. Rodgers.

Reading: The late Solon Bancroft, Rev. J. J. Cogan, Miss Emma Florence Eaton,
Charles A. Loring, Rev. Austin Rice, Horace G. Wadlin. Rowley: Charles F. Allen,
Amos E. Jewett.

Salisbury: Edmund Chase Eastman. Sherbobn: Francis Bardwell, Henry G.
Vaughan. Springfield: W. F. Adams, G. C. Baldwin, Frank H. Page. Stratford:
Edward Fox, Esq., J, P. (Mayor of Stratford-on-Avon, England), Miss Frances B. Russell.
Sudbury: Mrs. John P. Bowditch, John P. Bowditch, Rev. Paul Revere Frothingham,
Frank F. Gerry, J. V. Lee, John M. Merriam.

Taunton: The late Edith M. Hodgman, Frank Walcott Hutt, Edward Lovering,
Edward H. Temple, Edwin A. Tetlow. Topsfield: George Francis Dow, T. W. Pierce.

Waltham: Thomas H. Armstrong, C. F. French, E. L. Sanderson, Charles Stone,
John H. Storer, Rev. Francis E. Webster. Warwick: Herbert O. Brigham, Howard M.
Chapin, H. R. Curtis, Mrs. H. W. Marsh, H. W. Marsh (Warwick, England), Thomas
S. Longridge, Herbert H. White. Watertown: R. M. Saltonstall. Weymouth: Judge
Louis A. Cook, E. R. Hastings, The Times, London. Winchester: George H. Eustis,
Sinclair Kennedy, Librarian at Guildhall Library, London, Henry G. Lord, Bowen Tufts,
Major Evelyn Wrench. Windsor: Julia M. Clapp, Gilbert F. Davis, G. G. Wilder.
Woborn: Judge Edward F. Johnson.

York: Mrs. J. P. Bowditch, A. M. Bragdon, Henry S. Burrage, D.D. (ffistorian of

FOREWORD 13

Maine), Alfred Johnson, Edward C. Moody, James Brown Thornton, M.D., Sophia
Turner.

General: Rodolphe L. Agassiz, Hon. Thomas W. Bicknell, Mrs. Charles S. Bird,
Grace Blanchard, Mrs. Alice E. Boynton, F. B. Brightman, Thomas G. Brown, Howard
M. Buck, Charles H. Butler, Mrs. George Leonard Chaney, Howard M. Chapin, George
K. Clarke, Luther Conant, Rev. Louis C. Cornish, Mrs. George H. Davis, Mrs. Henry
Dorrance, Richard H. Evans, Fred T. Field, Redington Fiske, George S. Godard, Mrs.
Albert L. Hall, Henry M. Hutchings, Mrs. Minnie T. Knight, Miss Mabel E. Knowlton,
Willard P. Lewis, C. D. Lyons & Company, E. A. Marsh, Louis L. Robinson, Samuel
Russell, Robert B. Smith, Louis E. Stoddard, Thomas Sutton, J. B. Taylor, Lucien Thomp-
son, Hon. John J. Treat, Walter K. Watkins, George E. Watters, Harold E. Watters,
Miss Florence E. Wheeler, Elbert W. Whitney, Robert Whittaker, Miss Elizabeth
Wilkinson.

In closing this Foreword we would like to express our belief that the spirit of our
forefathers so well referred to in a poem by John Pierpont almost one hundred years
ago in 1824, at the Plymouth celebration, will always endure in America.

"The Pilgrim Fathers, — where are they?

The waves that brought them o'er
Still roll in the bay, and throw their spray,

As they break along the shore;
Still roll in the bay, as they rolled that day

When the Mayflower moored below.
When the sea around was black with storms,

And white the shore with snow.

The mists that wrapped the Pilgrim's sleep

StiD brood upon the tide;
And the rocks yet keep their watch by the deep,

To stay its waves of pride.
But the snow-white sail that he gave to the gale.

When the heavens looked dark, is gone;
As an angePs wing, through an opening cloud.

Is seen, and then withdrawn.

The Pilgrim exile, — sainted name!

The Mil whose icy brow
Rejoiced, when he came, in the morning's flame,

In the morning's flame bums now;
And the moon's cold light, as it lay that night

On the hill-side and the sea,
Still lies where he laid his houseless head;

But the Pilgrim, — ^where is he?

The Pilgrim Fathers are at rest:

When Simuner is throned on high.
And the world's warm breast is in verdure dressed.

Go, stand on the hill where they lie.

f

FOREWORD

The earliest ray of the golden day

On that hallowed spot is cast;
And the evening sun as he leaves the world,

Looks kindly on that spot last.

The Pilgrim spirit has not fled:

It walks in noon's broad light;
And it watches the bed of the glorious dead,

With the holy stars, by night.
It watches the bed of the brave who have bled,

And shall guard this ice-bound shore
Till the waves of the bay, where the Mayflower lay,

Shall foam and freeze no more."

(The fourth verse of this ode was printed on page zg of Pari I.)

This poem was also on the program of the Tercentennial Celebration held at
Plymouth, Massachusetts, on December 21, 1920. On this occasion Governor
Calvin Coolidge of Massachusetts sat in the chair brought over by Governor Brad-
ford, which is now owned by William R. Hedge, Henry R. Hedge and their sister,
direct descendants of this early Governor.

ALLAN FORBES,
PresidetU, State Street Trust Company.
Boston, 1921.

t

Fnm mnicnnnnt "l^ ^ Bnlolpit Cut, BaaoK. MarialknirUI KinJtru of l)ir Gatmari aj tlu St. BcUlpli Clth

ST. BOTOLPH'S CHURCH, BOSTON. ENGLAND
There is also an etching of this church in the St. Botolph Club, presented in 1903 by Williun Harwood

TOWNS of NEW ENGLAND

and

Old England, Ireland and Scotland

BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS

"St. Botolph's Town! Hither across the plains
And fens of Lincolnshire, in garb austere,
There came a Saxon monk, and founded here
A Priory, pillaged by marauding Danes,
So that thereof no vestige now remains;
Only a name, that, spoken loud and clear,
And echoed in another hemisphere.
Survives the sculptured walls and painted panes.

St. Botolph's Town! Far over leagues of land

And leagues of sea looks forth its noble tower,

And far around the chiming bells are heard;
So may that sacred name forever stand

A landmark, and a symbol of the power

That lies concentred in a single word."

|T. BOTOLPH'S TOWN, so well described by LongfeUow
in these well-known lines, and our Boston have had many
interchanges, one of the most interesting being the collec-
tion of six scab of old Boston which now hangs in the
Committee Room of the City Council in our City Hall, a
present sent by Hon. Meabum Staniland, Mayor of the
old town, at the suggestion of John Lewis Clark, Esq.,
who made a visit to Boston, England, in 1849, Mr, Clark
in a letter now on file in our City Hall gives an account of this gift in a commu-
nication addressed to Mayor John P. Bigelow of this dty in 1851. The seals are
all of the period of Henry VIII, when the borough was incorporated, and the
wooden frame was made from one of the original timbers of St. Botolph's Church,
of which Rev. John Cotton was vicar for twenty-one years. The frame bears the
following inscription: —

traflad by Gmrtr B. Brayttn Ki^^nrii t!on. Judrm J. Piuri, Mrjm of BaniKi, Masiakvirlli. anJ E. V. B. Parhc, E!q.
SMALL BOX SENT IN igig TO HON. ANDREW J. PETERS, MAYOR OF BOSTON, NEW ENG-
LAND, BY fflS WORSHIPFUL A. COOKE YARBOROUGH, MAYOR OF OLD BOSTON
It is made from the railings that formed part o[ the doct in the old Guildhall, where the Pilgrim Fathers
were tried in 160;. The message that came within the box appears in aitother iUustratioa.

TO THE CITY OF BOSTON, UNITED STATES

Our Mayor gratefully acknowledged receipt of the seals and at the same time sent
some books and reports of our city to the English dty. Another interesting pres-
ent sent over here in 1919 to our City Hall is an oak box containing a scroU upon
which the Mayor, Aldermen and Burgesses of Boston, England, congratulate the
Mayor and Governing Body of our Boston on the victories of the American armies
in France and the valuable assistance given to the Allied cause by the American
Navy. The English officials also refer with pride to the connection between their
ancient borough and the capital of Massachusetts. The plate on the outside of
the box explains its history: —

To the Honourable Andrew J. Peters,

Mayor and to the Governing Body

of the City of Boston, Massachusetts:
This box (which is made from the rails which formed a part of the dock in
the old Guildhall, where the Pilgrim Fathers were tried in the year 1607)
with the enclosed address of good fellowship, is presented by the Wor-
shipful the Mayor and Corporation of the Borough of Boston, England.

A. Cooke Yasborodgh, Mayor.

BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS

Kindniii Hon. AtdrmJ. Ptm. M^yor vf Bojlon, Mtisoih.,,^,
E. r.B. Parir, £>«., aid C. M. HunaiU. Elf.

OLD SEALS OF BOSTON, ENGLAND,
now in the Committee Room of the City Council in Cit); Hall, Boston, Massachusetts. They are of
the period of Henry VIII and were presented to our city in 1849 by Hon. Meabum Staniland, Mayor
of Boston, England. The frame was made from one of the original timbers of St. Botolph's Church,
Boston, Engtand.

Among other documents in City Hall is a communication sent in 1856 from old
Boston to our City Goverament expressing appreciation of the visit of Hon. Joseph
Story, President of the Boston Common Council, who made a visit to St. Botolph's
Town the year before. Still another document was written in 1865 expressing
the sorrow of the people of old Boston at the time of the death of Abraham
Lincoln.

Another interchange of greetings occurred during the Mayoralty of the Hon.
Frederick O. Prince of our Boston, who invited the Mayor of the English town to
be present at the two hundred and fiftieth anniversary of the founding of our city.
The Vicar of Boston at this time wrote: —

"I beg you to convey in such way as you deem most suitable my
most grateful acknowledgments to those, who with yourself have been
the cause of my late invitation, assuring them that both as a successor
of John Cotton, one of your honoured founders, and as an inhabitant of
the Town from which your city takes its name, I shall ever cherish the
deepest interest in its welfare, both political and rehgious, and desire the
bles^g of Almighty God upon it.

w. ....

_>3._ . ui!:;li to iiiiVr 111 ilif^ ^_
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MESSAGE FROM THE MAYOR OF BOSTON, ENGLAND, TO THE MAYOR OF BOSTON,

MASSACHUSETTS

It was enclosed in the box shown in another illiutration.

BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS 2i

I need hardly say that the Mother regards not only with no envy but
with honest pride of all right minded parents the far greater progress
which the daughter across the Atlantic has made and is likely to
make . . .

I have the honour to remain

Your faithful and obliged servant,

G. B. Blenkin, Vicar of Boston"

Soon after the sending of the box to City Hall our Public Library received a
valuable present from St. Botolph's Town, which was presented by Alfred J.
Ogston, Esq., acting British Consul in Boston, and which was received on behalf
of this city, by Hon. Andrew J. Peters, our Mayor. Hon. George W. Coleman,
President of the City Council in 1915, and a member of the Council in 19 14 and
191 6, made a visit to the old town in 19 18 and while walking along the river he
noticed part of an ancient oaken balustrade that once stood in the Court Room of
the old Guildhall before which some of the Pilgrim Fathers, among whom was Elder
William Brewster, had appeared as prisoners in 1607. The association of this
relic with our city is even more closely brought home to us when it is realized that
Richard Bellingham, Governor of the Massachusetts Bay Colony, held the posi-
tion of Recorder of the city of old Boston, doubtless passing by the railing many
times a day during his routine of business. Mr. Coleman suggested to Hon. A.
Cooke Yarborough, Mayor of old Boston, that it would be a very fitting thing if
his town could send the rail, which was then being used as a back-yard fence along
the river bank, to the daughter across the Atlantic and it arrived in May of the
following year and is now one of the most interesting relics owned by the Library,
standing on the Huntington Avenue side of the delivery room of the central office
at Copley Square, the inscription on it reading: —

Before this railing,

once part of the dock

in the Guildhall of Boston,

Lincolnshire,

stood on trial in 1607

some of the Pilgrim Fathers

The gift of the City of Boston, England, 1919.

Mr. Ogston in presenting it said in part: —

"I have the pleasure, your Honour, of requesting your acceptance of this ancient
railing, as a token of the kindly and cordial feeling entertained by the City of Boston in
England for the City of Boston in New England, and emblematic of the feeling of love and
esteem which exists between the two nations."

BOSTON'. MASSACHUSETTS

Mayor Peters during his address made
the following remarks: —

"Standing here it will serve as a link
between the old days and the new, mutely
teaching the great virtue of reverence to
our children. It will furnish a fresh bond
of attachment between ourselves and the
people of Boston in Lincolnshire. As Mayor
of the younger City bearing that honored
name, I send back sympathetic greetings
and warm appreciation to our kindred across
the ocean who have been inspired to this
act of gracious courtesy."

The First Church in Boston, on the
comer of Berkeley and Marlborough
Streets, contains so many tablets of in-
terest that they form almost a history
in themselves of the early days of the
Colony. The chief memorial is a re-
cunnbent statue of John Cotton which
was erected to his memory by his de-
scendants and which was unveiled in
1907. The inscription records his birth
in Derbyshire, England, in 1585, and his
death in the Colony of Massachusetts
Bay in 1652; it also mentions that he
was a fellow of Emmanuel College, Cam-
bridge, in 1607, that he was Vicar of
the Church of St. Botolph, Boston,
Lincolnshire, from 1612 to 1633, and
that he was Teacher of the Boston
Church from 1633 to 1652. The most
interesting feature of this memorial is
the stone pendant from the east portal
of St. Botolph's Church, which now
forms a part of the front of the pedestal upon which his statue rests. This
stone, which can easily be identified in the accompanying cut, dates from the
beginning of the fourteenth century and doubtless formed a part of the main en-
trance during the time Cotton was Vicar. John Cotton's body rests in a big tomb,
the First Church Vault, in King's Chapel Graveyard, but no other tablet in Boston
commemorates his valuable work for the Colony. Rev. Paul Revere Frothingham,
who is a descendant of John Cotton on his mother's side, made the address on the

SECTION OF RAIUNG FROM THE GUILD-
HALL, BOSTON, ENGLAND,

once part o[ the dock in the Guildhall, befote which
•ome of the Pilgrim Fathers were tried, now an in-
tnesting relic in the Boston Public Library, Boston,
Massachusetts. This ancient laillng was dis-
covered by Hon. George W. Coleman, of out city.

old Boston, The presentation, which took plai
Ma^ 19, iqiQ, was made by Alfred J. Ogston, Esq.,
uung British Consul in Boston, and the reUc ac-
cepted for out City by its Mayor, Hon, Andrew
J. Peters.

BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS

occasion of the dedication of this
monument and during his address
referred to Cotton's great power
of application as a student, evi-
denced by a four-hour sand glass
which he turned over three times
a day, whereby he figured his
working hours.

While on the subject of Vicar
Cotton it may be interesting to
mention that, a month after sail-
ing, his fourth child was born on
the Atlantic Ocean and the
parents decided, therefore, to call
him "Seaborn," presumably the
suggestion having come from
Stephen Hopkins, one of the Pil-
grim Fathers, who thirteen years
before had a son bom on the out-
ward voyage of the " Mayflower,"
whom he named "Oceanus."
John Cotton's house stood on
the upper part of the present
site of the Suffolk Savings Bank.

The people of Boston will
always associate John Cotton
with the old town in England
from which he came, and they
will appreciate him as much as
the inhabitants of old Boston,
who, it is said, believed

On the pedestal can be seen an old stone pendant, dating
(ram the fourteenth century, from the east portal of St.
Botolph's Church, Boston, England, of nhich Cotton was
Vicar tor twenty-one years. Rev. Paul Revere Frothing-
ham, a descendant of John Cotton on bis mother's side,
made an interesting address at the dedication.

"The lantern of St. Botolph's ceased to bum
When from the portab of that church he came
To be a burning and a shining light
Here in the wilderness."

Another connecting link between the two Bostons has been made by the restora-
tion of the chapel in St, Botolph's, now called Cotton Chapel, and by a memorial
placed upon its walls to his memory, mainly through the liberality of his American
descendants. Here is recorded a Latin inscription of his life-work written by Hon.
Edward Everett of our city, whose wife, by the way, was a descendant of John
Cotton; translated into English it reads as follows. —

24 BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS

"That here John Cotton's memory may survive
Where for >o loii^! he laboured when
In James' reign — and Charles's, ere it ceased, — -
A grave, skilled, learned, earnest parish priest;
Till from (he ^trifs.- that tossed the Church of God
He in a new wnrld sought a new abode.
To a new linglaiid — a new Boston— came,
(That took to honour him that rev'rend name)
Fed the first llock of Christ that gathered there —
Till death deprived it of its Shepherd's care-
There weU resolved all doubts of minds perplext,
Whether with cares of this world, or the next:
Two centuries fi\'e lustra, from the year
That saw the exile leave his labours here.
His family, his townsmen, with delight —
(Whom to the task their English kin invite) —
To the fair fane he served so well of yore.
His name, in two worlds honoured, thus restore.
This chapel renovate, this tablet place,
In this the year of man's recovered Grace.
185s"

The restoration of the chapel was brought about chiefly through the help of three
American citizens, George Peabody, Joshua Bates and Russell Sturgis, who were
at that time living in London. They found that the chapel was being used as a
limiber-room and that for some time the town fire-engine had been kept there,
The corbels supporting the timber ceiling of Cotton Chapel are carved with the
arms of early colonists of New England.

The visitor to the First Church in our Boston will find tablets placed on its walls
to John Winthrop, Thomas Dudley, Isaac Johnson and John Wilson, all foimders
of the church and all so well known that they need no description here. There are
also other memorials to John Leverett, Sir Henry Vane, placed there by one of
Vane's descendants in England, Thomas Oliver, Jeremiah Diunmer, Ezekiel
Cheever, John Davenpxirt, Simon and Anne Bradstreet and Anne Hutchinson.
Other tablets to distinguished citizens of this city were erected later to Edward
Everett, the Emersons, Robert Treat Paine, John Quincy Adams, Rev. Nathaniel
L. Frothingham and other persons too numerous to mention here. A doorway has
also been erected in the church by the Colonial Society of Massachusetts to the
memory of Governor Thomas Hutchinson "in grateful recognition of a long and
distinguished career of public service always guided by a conscientious desire to be
loyal both totheProvinceand to the Crown," The only statue outside of the church
is that of Governor John Winthrop and it is interesting to mention to our readers
that a descendant of his now hves in the house directly opposite this First Church.

Dr. Charles E. Park, the present minister of this church, and Rev. A, G, Peaston,
of the Spain Lane Unitarian Chapel of old Boston, carried on a correspondence in
1915, and parts of their letters are here given: —

BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS

Kiniit!, In Frwkti-RoimiM, Ejt.

COTTON CHAPEL (FORMERLY CALLED FOUNDERS CHAPEL) IN ST. BOTOLPH'S
CHURCH, BOSTON, ENGLAND,

restored in iSss chiefly through the help of three Ainerican citizens then living in London, G«oige Peabod;^,
Joshua Bates and Russell Stuigis. The memorial tablet to John Cotton, shown in another illustration, is
m this Chapel.

"To THE Minister and Meubers or
THE First Church, Boston, Mass. U.S.A.

Dear Brethren:

The celebration of a century of peace between the U.S.A. and GL
Britain, which we had hoped to commemorate suitably this month,
affords us the agreeable privilege of greeting you with cordiality and
afifection. December 24th, 1814, will be ever memorable in this
Country, not only for 'ringing in the hundred years of peace,' but as the
inauguration of a sentiment of kinship, trust and good-will, which has
gained strength steadily, and has made a suggestion of armed conflict
between the two nations literally unthinkable.

A. G. Peaston, Minister,
H. Basson Clark, President,
F. KiME, Secretary."

BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS 27

To which Mr. Park made a reply which we quote in part: —

*'To THE Minister and Congregation of the
Spain Lane Unitarian Chapel,
Boston, Lincolnshire,
England.

Dear Brethren: —

Your cordial communication having been received and read in Congregation, we are
directed by the First Church in Boston to address you in acknowledgment of your letter,
and to assure you of the lively and heartfelt gratification which your friendliness has
aroused in us.

We share with you the pride and pleasure of the thought that one hundred years of
unbroken p>eace have cemented the relations of these two countries in a union of ideals
and an identity of sympathies, which we are emboldened to hope and believe, can never
again be dissolved; and these feeUngs we believe to be by no means peculiar to us, but to
be the common property of all true citizens of the United States of America.

We are deeply conscious of the significance of this Centennial, standing, as it does,
almost if not quite unique in history, as the symbol of the longest peace that has ever
existed between two nations in such active and constant intercourse as ours; and giving
the world a notable object lesson in international comity and fellowship. . . .

The value of our own Centennial is tragically accentuated by these momentous events.
Our hopes and our wishes go forth to you day and night, that you come to a peace, that
shall be sp>eedy if it may be, but that shall be honorable at all costs. . . .

On behalf of the First Church in Boston,

Charles E. Park, Minister,
John W. Bartol,

Henry H. Edes for the Standing Committee,
Jan. 25, 1915. JOHN W. Denny, Clerk,''

The First Church also sent over funds during the war to be used by this church in
old Boston for the relief of soldiers' families. In 1880 Rev. Dr. Rufus Ellis, min-
ister of the First Church, visited the old town and brought back a number of
presents.

Another connecting link between old Boston and this city is a beautiful stone
tracery of an ancient window which was sent as a present from St. Botolph's Church
to our Trinity Church and which is placed on one side of the cloister leading from
the Clarendon Street entrance. The inscription on the plate nearby reads as fol-
lows : —

Part of the original tracery from a window

of the ancient Church of St. Botolph, Boston,

Lincolnshire, England, of which John Cotton

was Vicar for XXI years until he came to
New England in MDCXXXHI.
Presented to Trinity Church by the

Reverend G. B. Blenkin, Vicar of St. Botolph's

and placed here as a precious memorial of the

Church of our Fathers, October MDCCCLXXIX.

The fragments of this window had been discarded in old Boston and an American
visitor, seeing them in the comer of the church, expressed the wish that they be sent

BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS *-*

over here to Trinity Church,
which was accomplished in the
year 1879. There was a friendly
rivalry in our Boston as to
which church should be favored
with this gift from the old city.
Rev. Rufus ElUs, pastor of the
P'irst Church, and, therefore, a
successor of John Cotton,
thought that his edilice was the
fitting place for the tracery to
be installed, while Rev. Philhps
Brooks as rector of Trinity
Church, the foremost Episcopal
church of Boston, urged that the
gift was without doubt intended
for his church. After several
pleasant discussions it was ami-
cably settled, and the mediaeval
stone work found a final resting-
place in the cloister of Trinity
Church. The Rector of Trinity
at the time of the receipt of this
relic spoke of the great value
which attaches in New England
to anything associated with the
name of John Cotton and added:
"For ourselves and for the church
which we represent we acknowl-
edge a pecuhar gratification in
affixing to our new walls so wel-
come a reminder of our mother
country and of our Mother Church, for whose prosperity and welfare we shall
ever pray. . . . The gift has attracted the interest not only of our own parishioners,
but of all our citizens! "

Trinity Church has five pieces of communion silver given by his "Maj"'''. K.
George 2°'^ by his Exc''. Gov^ Shirley; 1742," and on each one is the English coat
of arms. There is also in this church a memorial to Rev. Arthur Stanley, Dean of
Westminster, a great friend of Rev. Philhps Brooks, in memory of the first sermon
he preached while in America in 1878. Rev. Phillips Brooks preached several times
in St. Botolph's Church and also in Westminster Abbey, London. On one occasion

FMofriiplud In Cnrti B. Sraylon

TRACERY WINDOW FROM ST. BOTOLPH'S IN THE
CLOISTER OF TRINITY CHURCH,
BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS,
sent as a present by the Vicar of the English church. It is
placed in the open corridor on the Clarendon Street side of
the building.

BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS

when he preached in St. Botolph's, all the other
places of worship in the town were closed in
order that their congregations might hear hira.

King's Chapel possessed for a number of
years some church silver, which Governor
Hutchinson exchanged for a new communion
service, the gift of King George III, at which
time he took away the old service, sending
some pieces to Christ Church, Cambridge, two
of which are marked, "The gift of King
William and Queen Mary to ye Reve'd. Sam'l
Myles for ye use of their MaJ'ties Chappell
in New England, 1694." Other pieces were
sent to St. Paul's Church, Newburyport. King's
Chajiel was founded in 1686 and the first
building was the first Church of England in
Boston. The comer-stone of the present build-
ing was laid on August 11, 1749, the architect
being Peter Harrison, who was born in Eng-
land in 1716. In 1918 a tablet was placed
near the entrance of the church in his honour
by certain architects of Boston, There are
also many interesting tablets to the early settlers
and to important members of the congrega-
tion up to the present day, including such well-
known people as Oliver Wendell Holmes, Roger
Wolcott, Samuel Appleton, Charles P. Curtis,
Francis E. Foote, Henry Wilder Foote, Epbraim
Peabody, Robert S. Peabody, Thomas Newton,
one of the founders of the church, John Lowell,
Kirk Boott and Arthur T. Lyman.

Christ Church, which is usually referred to as the Old North Church, and
which is situated on Salem Street, once called Green Lane when it was the most
fashionable thoroughfare in Boston, is the possessor of two flagons bearing the royal
arms of King George and among other rehcs is the well-known "vinegar" Bible
also given by this king.

The St. Botolph Club in our city possesses some interesting relics of the mother
town, which are best described by quoting from the original records of the Club.
A meeting of the members was held on the 25th of February, 1882, Francis Park-
man, Esq., the President, presiding, at which a letter was read by the Secretary,
parts of which are here given :—

MEMORIAL TABLET IN COTTON
CHAPEL, ST. BOTOLPH'S CHURCH,

ENGLAND,
placed there in memory ot Rev. John
Cotton, by hb American descendants
and others. A Latin inscription, written
by Hon. Edward Everett, given in the
text in English, describes the placing of
this memorial, in the year 185s-

BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS

"Dear Mr. Parkman:-

LOVING CUP, FORMERLY THE PROPERTY
OF THE CORPORATION OF BOSTON,

ENGLAND,
piesented to the St. Botolph Club, Boston, Mas-
sachusetts, by Rev. George E. Ellis, whose nephew,
Arthur B. EUis, Esq., brought it to this country.
It was presented to the Club on February 25,
i88i, and accepted on behalf of the Club by Franeia
Parkinan, Esq., then President, The cup is marked
beneath the Borough Arms, "Richard Bell, Mayor,
174S-"

I herewith— through you as its Presi-
dent, — present to the St. Botolph Club, of
this City, a massive Silver-Gilt 'Loving
Cup ' formerly belonging to the Corporation
of our Mother-town, Boston, Lincolnshire,
England. The Cup, with other pieces of
Silver-plate belonging to that Corporation,
was sold by auction in June, 1837, was pur-
chased by Mr. Daniel Jackson, and by him
bequeathed to his Son, Mr. George Jackson,
on whose death in May, 1881, it was at the
disposal of his widow.

My nephew, Mr. Arthur B. Ellis, being
in Boston last summer, and having the
opporttmity, thinking I might wi^ to
possess the Cup, was allowed to bring it to
this countr\'.

It seemed to me that the St. Botolph
Club should fitly have the Cup in its posses-
sion and would value it though it is not
requisite that they should put it to its origi-

George E. Elus."

On motion of Mr. Bradford it was

"Voted that the thanks of the Club be
tendered to the Rev'd. Dr. George E. Ellis
for his valuable gift of a 'Loving Cup,'
formerly owned by the Corporation of Bos-
ton, England, which is hereby gratefully
accepted upon the conditions named in his
letter of the 22nd day of February, 1882.

Adjourned, T, R. Sullivan, Secretary."

This cup is marked beneath the Borough Anns, "Richard Bell, Mayor, 1745."
Three years later the Club received another valuable relic of old Boston, the gift
being made at a special meeting of the Club held on Monday, June 22, The Presi-
dent, Francis Parkman, Esq., called the meeting to order and introduced to the
members Rev. William S. Key of Boston, England, who then presented to the
Club on behalf of the Municipal Charity Trustees of St. Botolph's Town a casting,
or reproduction, of its Borough Arms, On this occasion the cup was filled and
passed round among those present, who drank suitable toasts to the two Bostons
and to the mermaids that appear on the shield. After an acceptance of the gift by
the President, the following votes of thanks were passed by the meeting:—

"Voted that the cordial thanks of the St. Botolph Club be extended
to the Rev. William S. Key for the kind efforts which he has made in
securing this interesting gift for permanent exhibition by the Club.

BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS

Voted that we accept with warm thanks
the kind and welcome gift of the Municipal
Charity Trustees of the Borough of Boston,
England.

Voted that the Arms of the Town of
St. Botolph be placed in our Club-House as
a memorial of Old Boston and a token of
the cordial regard borne towards Her by her
namesake."

These records are signed by Arthur B.
Ellis, Esq., Secretary. The discovery
of this relic and its voyage to our
Boston are worth describing. In 1881
Rev. William S. Key and two friends
of his, sons of Rev. Rufus Ellis, former
pastor of the First Church, Boston,
Massachusetts, while visiting the Town
Hall in old Boston, formerly the Hall of
the Guild of St. Mary, where the leaders
of the Pilgrim band were confined, un-
earthed from a pile of rubbish in the
basement the original Borough Arms
made of wood which used to bang over
the Recorder's seat in the Hall. A year
later Mr. Key received an invitation
from his Worshipful the Mayor, John
Caboum Simonds, who for some time
carried on an extensive business with
American firms in com and cotton-seed,
to attend a meetii^ of the Pilot Commissioners to be held in the Hall of Justice,
or Court Room, where Elder Brewster and his friends had been tried. The
people of St. Botolph's Town had not known of the existence of this treasure
and at the meeting thanked the discoverer and suggested that a replica be made
in metal and that it should be presented to the St. Botolph Club in Boston,
Massachusetts, which organization, as the presiding officer expressed it, "stands for
the closest relationship between our own town and its namesake beyond the Atlan-
tic." It was necessary to determine the exact colouring to be used in reproducing the
various symbolic figures and this was attained by a visit to the Herald's College in
London. When finished, the Arms was exhibited in a window in the market-place
of old Boston, while over the buOding floated the Stars and Stripes, the occasion
arousing great interest. Upon its arrival at this port the Custom House authori-
ties were in a quandary as to how to classify it and a charge would have been

COAT OF ARMS OF BOSTON, ENGLAND

A replica of the old Coat of Anns which was db-
covered by Rev. William S. Key, in the Guildhall
of Boston, England, where the leaders of the Pilgrim
band were tried. The ori^nal used to hang over
the Recorder's desk and was unearthed from a pile
of rubbish in the basement of the building. This
reproduction was presented by John Caboum
Simonds, Mayor of the old town, the St. Botolph
Club accepting it at a meeting of the Club on June
I, 1S85. It now hangs on the Club walls.

fe

locouQh

BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS

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TAULET IN GUILDH.\LL, BOSTON. ENGLAND

levied had not Oliver Wendell Holmes, James Russell Lowell and Francis Park-
man, President of the St. Botolph Club, persuaded the Collector of the Port to
release it. Both of these presents, together with a number of pictures of the Eng-
lish town, adorn the walls of the St. Botolph Club, which takes its name from the
Patron Saint of the town. On every seventeenth of June the Club has a lunch-
eon to celebrate his birthday. Members of the Club sent funds some time ago to
help defray expenses for repairs to St. Botolph's Church,

The Bostonian Society, in the Old State House, Boston, Mass., is proud of the
fact that a tablet in the Guildhall of old Boston records that the members of this
well-known society subscribed £ioo in 1915, towards the restoration of this ancient
building and the following letter of thanks was sent by Hon. James Eley, Mayor of
Boston, England, to Grenville H. Norcross, Esq., President of the Bostonian
Society: —

"Your tetter of the aand ult. is to hand, and I beg to thank you for your kindly thought
of me. No ceremony with reference to the preservation of the Guildhall has yet taken
place. I waited during last summer in the hope that some of your members might be in
the old country, and I intended arrangements whereby the completion of the work and the
splendid generosity of the Bostonian Society should be recognized and placed on record.
However, I trust the pleasure b only deferred, and when this terrible war is over, I look
forward to something of the kind. . . . The country will generally wait for the victory and
deem no sacrifice too great to secure a lasting and honourable peace.

I am. Dear Sir, very truly yours,

James Eley."

The Bostonian Society, which owns a splendid collection of Boston relics of the
old days, also has on view to the many visitors who go there a wooden model of
St, Botolph's Church and, also, many attractive pictures of old Boston. This
Society some years ago sent to the Guildhall a large picture of our Old State House.
While Hon. William Bedford was Mayor of the English Boston, he carried on an

BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS

interesting correspondence with the Bostonian
Society and always entertained visitors from
this dty. There have been so many visits
by our prominent citizens to the old town
that it is impossible to mention more than a
few. In 189s, Hon. T F. Bayard, the first
Ambassador to Great Britain from the United
States, went to Boston, Lincolnshire, and
distributed prizes at the old grammar school
and while there attended a banquet given in
his honour by the Mayor and Corporation
of the town. In a speech Mr. Bayard spoke
as follows: —

"This Boston — this Boston of old England —
is the mother and the name giver of a younger
and a stronger Boston far away across the sea.
And yet the younger and the stronger Boston,
the dty that holds perhaps one half-million of
inhabitants, owes so much, how much cannot be
fully stated or measured, to the little town of
twenty thousand people that preserves its exist-
ence and holds its own on this side of the At-
lantic."

In the following year a party of American
Congregationalists, chief of whom was Rev.
Dr. Dunning of Boston, landed in Plymouth S*"" ^"^"^ ^"^ Fathers were tried. The

'^ •" Boatonian aociety of our iioston subscnbed

and visited the old town in Lmcolnshirej bemg towards its restoration in 1915 and a tablet

entertained while there by the Mayor and &" TLSSSriSb^uSlS^

other offidab. Dr. Dunning spoke of our dty sessor of part of the ancient railing that came
,,.,_. -If,,. from this building, also shown in another cut.

and of John Cotton m the following terms : —

"Old Boston is our home, and we feel that we have come back to the land to which we
belong. It was a Vicar of Old Boston that practically founded the city of New Boston.
I suppose we may accept the opinion that the successors of John Cotton have preached as
well as he did, for we have abundant testimony that they do."

In 1S97 Rt. Rev. William Lawrence, Bishop of Massachusetts, visited the old
town and from the pulpit of St. Botolph's Church referred in these words to the
ties that united the two Bostons: —

"You little realize what it is for one born in Boston, in the United States, a citizen of
Boston, the Bishop not only of Boston, but of the State, of which Boston is the capital —
you Uttle realize, with what deep emotion he comes here and looks in the faces of you who
are dtizens of old Boston, and recalls to mind what the newer Boston owes to you, with
what sympathy it turns towards you, and with what sincerity it tells you that we are
brethren — brethren not only in Christ and in the Church — but brethren in race, in blood,
in free institutions — brethren as sons of England."

BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS

Another visit was that of Rev. George W,
Shinn, Rector of Grace Church, Newton, who
journeyed there in 1905 to inspect the plan of
St. Bototph's Church with the idea that some
church in this country might copy the old
church "where Cotton served so long and at
whose altars so many of the colonists to
America had worshipped," In 1909, on the
sexcentenarj' of the founding of St. Botoiph's
Church, many Americans attended unofficially
the celebration, although the Mayor of our
city and other distinguished persons who had
been invited were unable to be present.

It has often been supposed that our city
was named by, or for, John Cotton but this is
not so, as Cotton came to this countrj' three
years after our city had been changed from
Trimountain to Boston. There have been
many legends concerning its name ; some his-
torians believe our Boston was so named as a
compliment to Isaac Johnson of old Boston,
who came here in 1630; other historians be-
lieve it was so called to encourage John Cotton
to come to this country and assist the colony,
while Hon. R. C. Winthrop stated that "The
name of Boston was especially dear to the
Massachusetts colonists from its assodatloos
with St. Botoiph's town and this was probably
In speaking of the early settlers, Governor
Hutchinson mentioned that "Lincolnshire contributed greatly to the new planta-
tion and more of our principal families derive their origin from thence than from
any part of England, unless the City of London be an exception." The writer
of "Pilgrim Fathers of New England" makes the statement that "probably
there Is no town in England that has sent forth so many of its best and worthiest
dtizens to the great work of colonizing America than this town of Boston."
As a proof of this statement, we may mention the names of some of the early
settlers in our city who lived in the English Boston or nearby: Isaac Johnson
and John Humphrey, brothers-in-law of the third Earl of Lincoln, who was a
leader of the Puritan party and who lived at Sempringham, not far from old
Boston; Thomas Dudley who was steward or manager of the Earl's estate
lived in or near Boston; also Simon Bradstreet who was a member of his

a flmiotriifk

/«■ Fothtf-KcttrtKin, £,«.

THE PULPIT IN ST, BOTOLPH'S
CHURCH, BOSTON, ENGLAND,
(rom which Rev. John Cotton preached be-
fore he came to New England. He was Vicar
of thii English church for twenty-one years.
Once when Rev. Phillips Brooks preached
from this pulpit, all the other churches in
old Boston were closed so that the congrega-
tions could listen to hia excellent sermon.

really the reason for its selection."

BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS

household. To our town also came John
Leverett, whose father, Thomas Leverett,
had been an Aldennan of Boston in Lincoln-
shire; Richard Bellingham, who had held the
position of Recorder there as already men-
tioned, and Atherton Hough, who had been
Mayor of the city in 1628. William Codding-
ton, one of the early governors of Rhode
Island, was born in Boston, England, in 1601.
The English town, as we have seen, furnished,
therefore, four governors of Massachusetts
and one of Rhode Island.

Few places in England possess a more
impressive history than Boston. Its records
go back to the middle of the seventh century
when Botolf, a Saxon monk, often called " the
Saint of seafaring men," founded a monastery
on the site of an inconspicuous village called
Icanhoe in 654. The word "Boston" is
usually held to mean Botolf's ton (or town).
As early as 1270 the form Botolfston is found
in an English poem and in the fourteenth
century such names as "Botolestone" and
"Botolf's tune" occur. Still later, Lambarde,
about the year 1577, states that the place was
then called Bostonstow, though "commonly
and corruptly called Boston." Towards the
end of the ninth century the Danes invaded
the place and the followers of St. Botolph and his buildings were swept away. In
1309 the church, which tracUtion says was built on wool-packs, was rebuilt, largely
through the efforts of Margaret Tilney, to whom a memorial has been placed in the
church. The tower which is usually known as "Boston Stump" can be seen forty
miles out to sea, and the many American visitors there are never tired of speaking
of the impressiveness of the old church, with its high tower, on the banks of the river
Witham, The church has some peculiar architectural features. It has a narrow
winding stone staircase composed of three hundred and sixty-five steps, the exact
number of days in a year; sevendoors, being the number of days in a week; islighted
by fifty-two windows, the number of weeks in a year. The clerestory roof is sup-
ported on twelve massive stone columns, the number of months in a year; while,
in order to reach the Ubrary located over the South porch, which contains offidal
relics of Rev. John Cotton's family, among them being the baptismal registers of

fnm a* in!xftfni-<l •■> Ai Si. BoclpM CfuA, Bailee,

FIGURE OF ST. BOTOLPH ON ST.

BOTOLPH'S CHURCH, BOSTON,

ENGLAND

BOSTON, ENGLAND, FROM THE TOWER OF ST. BOTOLPH'S CHURCH

BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS

his children, the visitor has to
climb twenty-four much worn
stone steps, — the same number
as the hours in a day. To reach
the roof of the chancel one must
climb sixty steps, the exact num-
ber of minutes in an hour and
seconds in a minute. At the left
as one enters the door of St.
Botolph's Church there is a
heavy oak chest, iron-bound and
with a heavy padlock attached,
which is filled every Saturday
night with four-pound "quar-
tern" loaves purchased out of
the income derived from legacies
left by different benefactors who
made the bequests between the
years 1600 and 1755 a.d. and on
Sunday, at the dose of morning
service, the loaves are distributed
to a number of deserving women.
This chest was discovered in the
belfry of the church by Hon.
Edward Everett while he was
Minister to England on a trip
made to Boston, during which
he ascended the "Stump," or
tower of the church, and espied
the chest from his high position.
The Vicar was much surprised
to hear of his discovery and
immediately had it brought
down, thoroughly overhauled
and put to its present use.

Boston is about four miles
from the sea and a lantern in the
top of the tower formerly acted
as a guide to mariners. It was
this lamp in the old tower that is
home for the wilderness of New

Fnm a flumnr^t'' KMntii Ftti H. KimitM, Btf.

STATUE OF APJNE HUTCHINSON IN THE STATE

HOUSE, BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS
Anae Hutchinson, who was Anne Marbury before her niAr-
riage, was the daughter of a minister at Alford in Lincolnshiie.
She was the first woman to be conspicuously connected with
public life and the placing of her statue recently in the State
Capitol in a sense matLs the advent of woman suffrage in
Massachusetts. While in our Boston, her opinions seem to
have been favored by Rev. John Cotton-
Said to have ceased to bum when Cotton left his
England. Old Boston was once a large seaport

He died in Attleboro, Massachusetts, in that part of the dty now Lonsdale, Rhode Island, a picture of the

monument near his grave being shown on page 45.

This tablet stands near the comet of Tremont and Park Streets, the inscription reading; —

In ot about

the year of our Lord

One thousand six hundred

thirty and four

the then present inhabitants

of sd Town of Boston of whom

the Honl>le John Winthrop Esq'

Govnr of the Colony was chiefe

did treate and agree with

Mr. William Bladcstone

for the purchase of his

Estate and rights in any

neck of Land called

Boston

after which purchase the

Town laid out a plan for

a trayning field which ever

since and now is used for

The deposition of John Odlin and others o

ling the sale of Blackstone'g land known a.

frail a plaleir'pi h Cnrir B. Briyln

THE OLD STATE HOUSE, BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS

40 BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS

and in the first part of the fourteenth century was one of the ten most important
ports of the Kingdom, during the reign of King John even rivaUng London. It
was made a staple port in 1369, being the principal place in the east of England
for the export of wool to Flanders and for the import of woolen cloth from there.

The May Sheep Fair is one of the most important yearly events held
in Boston. From early hJ.-,toric times Lincolnshire has been famous for the
number of sheep raised there and for the superior quality of the wool and
mutton. Fabulous prices have bt-en paid by well-known sheep herders, farmers
and exporters for Lincolnshire rams and ewes, for shipment to Argentina and other
South American countries, as well as to Australia, New Zealand and other parts
of the world, the purchase price for one ram often reaching $5,ocx>. The exact
date when the great sheep fair was started is lost in the mazes of early history,
but there is a definite record in the year 1623, which mentions the price of pens
for the accommodation of the animals while on sale. The importance of this fair
has steadily increased and at the present time it ranks as one of the most important
in England, occasionally assuming such large proportions that at times forty
thousand sheep have been known to change bands in less than three hours. A
scene at the fair is shown in the frontispiece.

The fens stretched out towards the sea, even after the Normans had con-
quered the territory, and it is said that the natives sometimes went out on
stilts to meet the foe in order to be able to retreat in safety across the marshes
to their strongholds after an attack. It may be interesting to New Englanders
to know that eight miles from the town is a place called "Bunker's Hill," and
also that a mile or so away is a small village called "New York" which
recalls the remark of a New York driver in "Martin Chuzzlewit" who said
"it brought Old York home to him quite vivid on account of its being so
exactly unlike in every respect."

ATHOL, MASSACHUSETTS

THE Scotch tartan of the Murray clan was used in the decorations for the
one hundred and fiftieth anniversary of the incorporation of the town of
Athol, Massachusetts, which was named in honour of Col. John Murray
who was the founder of our town and who gave it its name for Blair Atholl, his
native town in Scotland. At this celebration, which was held in June of the year
1912, the committee used letter paper on which appeared in colours this attractive
tartan. John Murray was probably a distant relative of the Duke of Atholl, head
of the great Murray clan, but he was not his son as many people have supposed.
The present Duke, the eighth in line, is a typical Highland Chieftain. He served
in the NUe expedition; in the South African War; commanded a Scottish cavalry
regiment in the Great War and later took part in the fighting at Gallipoli. He and

ATHOL, MASSACHUSETTS

4'

d pkotofrapk

Kind^.i F. £. H'ix

showing the colours of the Duke of Atholl, of
Blair Atholl, Scotland, fl>ing at half mast at
the time of the death of one of the Dukes in
igi7. The colours were a present from this
Duke some years before.

his family have taken the greatest interest

in the Massachusetts Athol, which, by the

way, has always been wrongly spelled with

only one " 1," The interchanges began in 1904

with an interesting correspondence between

Lodge St. John's No. 14 of Dunk eld (near

Atholl), in Perthshire, Scotland, of which the

late Duke was a member, and F. E. Wing,

Esq., one of Athol's foremost citizens and

Worshipful Master of Star Lodge in his town.

This friendship resulted during the same year

in the gift of a gavel, by the Duke of Atholl,

to the Massachusetts Lodge, copied from the

one used in the Scotch Lodge and made from

one of the larch trees which abound in the

Duke's private park and which were planted

by the Duke himself. This gavel was pre-
sented at one of the meetings of the Lodge

and is still used on all important occasions, the inscription thereon reading as

follows : —

Gavel made of larch grown on the Atholl Plantation Scotland: pre-
sented by John 7th Duke of Atholl K. T. to the SUr Lodge of Free and
Accepted Masons, Athol, Massachusetts, U.S.A.: Frank E. Wing, Worship-
ful Master: 1904.

During the following year the distinguished Scotchman was elected an honorary
member of Star Lodge and was invited to visit the town on several occasions,
one being the one hundred and fiftieth anniversary of Athol. In 1911 the Duke
sent Mr. Wing a flag similar to his private colours flown over his castle, the pattern
consisting of alternate horizontal stripes of orange and black. It is interesting to
mendon that this flag, by order of the Board of Selectmen and School Committee,
was flown at half mast from the High School building of our Athol when the Duke
died in the year 1917. At the same time, at the suggestion of Mr. Wing, the
Selectmen sent the following cable to the Duke's son: "Town of Athol, Massa-
chusetts, mourns death of His Grace, your father. Athol colors half staff one week."
A reply cable in these words was received and entered upon the records of Athol:
"Atholl men this side, family and self, deeply touched that you share in our sor-
row." Cables were also exchanged in 1914 at the time of the Duke's Jubilee cele-
bration of accession to the title.

The Scotch godmother of our Athol, a name which is understood to mean
"pleasant land," is situated among the hills of Perthshire on the southern slope of
the Grampian hills, the river Tay flowing through the district. In the pirturesque

ATHOL, MASSACHUSETTS 43

days, known as the ** Ram's Reel." The thrill of the Atholl pipes is well described
in these lines written by James Hogg of Perthshire: —

**A' the din o' a' the drummers
Canna rouse like Atholl cummers [noise of the pipes].
When I'm dowie, wet, or weary,
Soon my heart grows light and cheery,
When I hear the sprightly nummers
O* my dear, my Atholl cummers.
When the fickle lasses vex me,
When the cares o' life perplex me,
When I'm fley'd wi* frightfu' rumors.
Then I cry for Atholl cummers."

Another event of interest in connection with this Scotch town was the visit of
Robert Bruce to Blair Castle; his hosts enjoyed his visit so much and were so
anxious to prolong his stay, that they sent a servant to persuade his coach-
man to remove a shoe from one of the horses in order to retard his departure.
At another time King George IV was a visitor to Scotland; it is said that he ap-
peared at a ball given by the Duchess of Gordon with his shoes tied with silk rib-
bons instead of the usual buckles, thereby causing ruin to all persons engaged in
the buckle trade.

Another 3tory is told of two Scotchmen who, having just decided to fight a
duel, repaired at once to the appointed place. Upon reaching their destination,
one of them scribbled these words on a card which he handed to his rival: "Naeth-
ing should be done in a hurry but catching fleas." The recipient of the card burst
out laughing and the two departed good friends. Another anecdote is related of
an old Scotch woman, who, imfortunately, had been indulging in too much liquid
refreshment. She was, as a result, brought before a magistrate, who asked her if
she knew where all drunkards go. "Yes," she replied, "where they get the best
whiskey."

Colonel Murray came to America before the Revolution, settling in
Rutland, but when the war broke out, his property was seized, as he remained
loyal to the King. He went to Halifax by way of Boston with the royal army
and became a resident of St. John, New Brunswick, where his descendants
still possess many rehcs of his early days in Athol, including the deeds to his
lands in this town and also in Rutland and Lenox. There is a portrait of him
in the Hazen family of St. John. There was a hole in this painting and there
is a tradition in the family that a number of persons who searched for the
Colonel after his flight from Massachusetts became vexed because he had
escaped and so pierced the canvas with their bayonets, vowing they would leave
their mark behind them.

Athol, formerly called Pequiog, is supposed to resemble in scenery Blair Atholl
and this fact may have been an added inducement to Colonel Murray to give his

44 ATHOL, MASSACHUSETTS

new abode the name of his ancestral home in Scotland. The township was first
laid out in 1732 by the General Court, the incorporators including the well-known
names of Oliver, Lee and Lord, other early settlers being the famih'es of Field,
Kendall, Goddard, Bancroft, Fay, Twichetl and Wheeler. Rev. James Hum-
phreys was the first tninister of the town and he arrived on horseback, to assume
his new duties, with his sermons and his goods in his saddle-bags.

ATTLEBORO, MASSACHUSETTS

A TTLEBORO, Massachusetts, derived its name from the market town
/ % of Attleborough, County Norfolk, England, whence some of the early
^ A. inhabitants of the Massachusetts city emigrated to America, giving their
settlement this name in remembrance of their native place. This origin of the
name is further confirmed by the fact that in the English town there is a river
called Bungay of about the same size as the one of that name in Attleboro, Massa-
chusetts. The name of the Massachusetts city was formerly spelled the same as
the town in England from which it took its name, but to conform, apparently, with
the American idea of time saving and efficiency the final "ugh" was left o£f some
time ago.

The first inhabitant within the original limits of Attleboro was the celebrated
William Blackstone, who was also the first settler and sole proprietor of "Shawmut,"
now Boston. He was a graduate of Emmanuel College, Cambridge University,
and had been a clergyman in England, emigrating about the year 1625 to this
country that he might enjoy his own religious opinions here unmolested. He even
found Governor Winthrop's colonists too intolerant, so he sought another retreat,
selling his right and title to his old home on " Blackstone 's Neck," as the Peninsula
of Boston was then called, to the new inhabitants, each one paying him six shillings
and some of them more, amounting in all to £30. With the purchase money he
bought a "stock of cows" which he took with him to his new home on the banks
of the Pawtucket River, now called Blackstone River in his honour. The Valley
of the Blackstone has become justly celebrated as a manufacturing district, and
contributes, by the advantages of its water-power, to the wealth and industry of
New England. The place where he settled was within the ancient limits of Attle-
boro, in that part called "The Gore," now Cumberland, Rhode Island, where he
died in 1675. His house he called "Study Hall," and the eminence on which it
was built was named "Study Hill," being so called to this day. The site of his
dwelling and grave b now occupied by the Ann and Ho[>e Mill of the Lonsdale
Company, there being a monument in the mill yard in line with his grave, erected
by his descendants in 1889, a picture of which is shown on the next page. Black-
stone is best known through his connection with Boston, though he hved in the latter

ATTLEBORO, MASSACHUSETTS

place but ten years as compared
with forty years in Attleboro.
He was fond of study and contem-
plation, and preached sometimes
for Roger Williams at Providence.
He was also skillful in horticulture
and woodcraft, caring more for
solitude than for society. The
library of one hundred and eighty-
four volumes in his wilderness
home was remarkable for those
early days in this country. He
was a man of many eccentricities
and among other things is recorded
as keeping a trained bull which
he is pictured as riding up and
down the sandy shore of Charles
Street in Boston. Later, after he
had moved from the latter city,
he used to visit his friends in
Providence, similarly mounted,
such animals being used quite
frequently in those days for carry-
ing burdens of all kinds.

The original purchaser of Attle-
boro land was Captain Thomas
Willett, an Englishman who had
lived with the PUgrims in Holland
and who became the successor of
Miles Standishas the Commander
of the Military Company of New
Plymouth. Captain Willett was

the best kind of diplomat, an able man of justice who inspired confidence among
all, including the Indians, with whom he was always on friendly terms. By authority
of the Court of New Plymouth in 1666 he obtained the Rehoboth North Purchase,
which became Attleboro, buying the land from Massasoit's eldest son, Wamsutta,
who was then the reigning sachem of Pokanoket. He was honoured by selection as
organizer of the new government after New York had been surrendered by the
Dutch, was chosen the first English Mayor of the American metropolis and
re-elected to that position. He afterwards returned to Swansea, near Attleboro,
where he died August 11, 1674. His great-grandson. Col. Marinus Willett,

formerly part of Attleboro, Massachusetts, now part of
Cumberland, Rhode Island. It is placed in the yard of
the Ann and Hope Mill of the Lonsdale Company in line
with his grave. The above mill now occupies the site of
Btackstone's home where he spent forty years of his life.
While he is best known on account of his connection with
the early history of Boston, Blackstone lived a far greater
length of time within the original limits of Attleboro.

ST. MARY'S CHURCH, ATTLEBOROUGH, ENGLAND

s' parlor of the Second Congr^atioiuu Church of Attleboro, Massachusetts.

a distinguished officer in the Revolutionary War, was also a Mayor of New
York City.

The first actual settlement within the bounds of the original town of Attleboro
was in the neighborhood of the Baptist meeting-house and was begun by John
Woodcock and his sons soon after the first divi^on of lands. In May, 1676, while
his sons were at work in a cornfield near the house, they were surprised by Indians,
and one son, Nathaniel, was killed.

Attleboro was incorporated as a township October 19, 1694, but the first town
meeting on record appears to have been held in 1696 at which time John
Woodcock and John Rogers were chosen to manage the affairs of the township,
other names identified with the early history of the town being Daniel Sheppison,
John Callendar, John Lane, George Robinson, David Freeman, Anthony Sprague
and Daniel Jenks.

One Thomas Doggett came to this country from Attleborough, England, and
he is supposed to be a brother of John, the first ancestor in this country of the
Daggetts {the present way of spelling the family name) of Massachusetts and
Connecticut. This John Doggett came over in Winthrop's fleet in 1630. Another
early settler who came from Attleborough, England, was John Sutton, whose
daughter Anne became the wife of John Doggett. Thomas Mayhew, who
was listed as "a merchant," was bom in Southampton, England, and was also

ATTLEBORO, MASSACHUSETTS 47

one of the early settlers of Attleboro. That the Daggett family still takes an
important part in the activities of the city is shown by the fact that Mrs.
Homer Daggett, wife of a direct descendant of John Doggett, ran for election as
Mayor in 1920.

The jewelry industry, now the most important in the city, had its commence-
ment in 1780 when a Frenchman, who was called "the foreigner," very likely be-
cause his real name was too difficult of pronunciation, began to make jewelry.
The first shop erected expressly for the manufacture of jewelry, the forerunner of
over one hundred concerns of today, was that of Col. Obed Robinson. His partners
were Otis Robinson and Milton Barrows, the latter being the great-grandfather of
those now carrying on the business of H. F. Barrows Company. Other men
prominent in establishing this industry were Freeman, Bates, Simmons, Dean,
Bliss, Sturdy, Whitney and Richards.

Attleboro became a city in 1914, Hon. Harold E. Sweet being the first Mayor.

The original post-office is still in existence and is located in the drawing-
room of the Holman homestead on Pleasant Street. The ** post-office" was
merely an old-fashioned table into the drawer of which the stage-coach driver
of long ago hastily dropped the town's letters. The residents walked to the
homestead or drove to the door and made their way to the "post-office room"
imheeded. There were no clerks nor locks and each caller sorted the mail in
search of his own.

The most tragic encounter of the whole Indian War, Pierce's Fight, took
place in old Attleboro. Sixty Plymouth colonists were surprised and almost
annihilated on March 26, 1676, and later the same day the remainder were
massacred at the spot, a few miles distant, called to the present time "Nine
Men's Misery."

The first religious meetings on record date back to 1704 and the first minister
called was in 1707. The First Church of Christ, Congregational, of Attleboro, is
still active at Oldtown, and the present pastor. Rev. John Whitehill, who is in his
fifty- third year of service there, was bom at Paisley, Scotland, August 11, 1833,
coming to this country when a child.

There have been no official letters or visits exchanged between the English town
and its namesake in Massachusetts but there is now in the Second Congregational
Church, Attleboro, a stone which once formed a capital in St. Mary's Church,
Attleborough, England. This was obtained at the instigation of the late Major
Everett S. Horton, who was very much interested in the erection of the new Second
Congregational Church. He conceived the idea of having Mr. Louis J. Lamb,
who was about to start on a trip to England, obtain some sort of memento in the
old town to have a place in the new building, which was then under construction
in Attleboro, Massachusetts. Mr. Lamb readily pledged hearty co-operation and
a copy of the letter regarding the finding of this stone now hangs in the ladies'

ATTLEBORO, MASSACHUSETTS

parlor of the Second Congrega-
tional Church and is interesting
enough to be repeated here: —

Mr. Everett S. Horton,
Attleboro, Mass. U.S.A.

My dear Major:

Have had your coimnis^on to
find you a stone in Attleborough,
England, in mind ever since leaving
home in May and as soon as we ar-
rived here today made inquiries for a
builder and were introduced to Mr.
John Harrison, leading contractor
and builder in this vicinity. We
told him our errand — that we wanted
to secure if possible a stone in some
way identified with the Old Parish
Church or other public building in
town to be placed in a new church
now building in Attleboro, Mass.,
U.S.A. He was immediately inter-
ested and said 'A few years since
while I was emploved in making some
repairs on the old church, it became
necessary to clear out a lot of refuse
stone and other material which had
been left under a portion of the
church at the time it was "restored"
about one hundred years ago. There
was one piece so shapely and well
adapted to the purpose diat I saved
it and took it home to make a base or pedestal for my dower vase in front garden and
I should think it would answer your purpose.'

We went to his house and viewed the stone and I assure you it did not take long to
secure it and arrange for its shipment to you via Cunard Line from Liverpool to Boston
and you should receive it about the middle of September.

We had found just what we wanted — a good shaped, fair sized stone and withal with
a history — for the Old Parish Church is said to be about 600 years old and as the stone
gives evidence that it has been cut and fashioned something after the style of a capital
for a column, it is probable that it was originally part of the ornamental architecture of
the building. We believe you and the 'White Church' friends will be pleased with it.

Attleborough, England, is very unlike its younger namesake in Massachusetts but it
is a quiet, thnfty little English village with three pubhc houses, Post-Telegraph and
Telephone office, Railway Station, several stores and the usual adjuncts of a trading centre
in niral England. The inhabitants and the homes give evidence that no extreme poverty
prevails and the few people whom we have met are very cordial and interested to hear

From I ptalatnfk

SECOND CONGREGATIONAL CHtntCH. ATTLE-
BORO, MASSACHUSETTS,
in which there is a stone from St. Mary's Church, Attle-

ATTLEBORO, MASSACHUSETTS

about the other Attleboro beyond the sea, I
know you would enjoy a visit here. Will tell
you more about it on our return.

With cordial remembrances of our entire
party,

Yours very truly,

Louis J. Lamb."

It is interesting to record that this letter is
framed in a piece of wood which came from
England as part of the crate around the
stone. The stone now occupies a niche at
the right of the entrance of the Second Con-
gregational Church, bearing the following
inscription : —

COURTESY OF

UR. JOHN HARBISON,

ATTLEBOROUGH, NORFOLK, ENGLAND

UR. L. J. LAMB,

ATTLEBOROUGH, MASSACHUSETTS, U.S.A.

PRESENTED BY MAJOR E. S. HORTON

In writing about this Attleboro church,
it is amusing to note that in 1868 a clock
which Struck every five minutes was installed
in the vestry, the purpose of this being,
apparently, to discourage any long speeches.

The late Major Horton exchanged many gifts with Mrs. John Harrison of Attle-
borough, England (wife of the gentleman mentioned in Mr. Lamb's letter, who
provided the stone sent to Attleboro, Massachusetts), sending her pictures of the
Massachusetts city and articles of jewelry for the manufacture of which our
Attleboro is justly famous, receiving pieces of crockery which had been in the
Slade family of Attleborough, England, for many years, also a sampler and a quilt
made by a woman of that town who had reached the age of one hundred and four
years.

The Angle Tree Stone which was erected at the time of the settlement of a long
controversy in regard to the Plymouth and Massachusetts Bay Colonies' boundary
line between Attleboro, Dorchester, Stoughton, Norton, Easton and Wrentham
is of historic interest to visitors.

On January 4, 1921, the Attleboro Community Fellowship, which takes a very
active interest in the affairs of the Massachusetts city, passed a set of resolutions
to encourage the interchange of correspondence between citizens of their dty and
Attleborough, England. The reasons given in the preamble for favoring these
resolutions were that history may and should be made humanly interesting and
helpful; that this is a time when New England towns are making considerable

lydut U.KnUtji

STONE IN SECOND CONGREGATIONAL

CHURCH, ATTLEBORO,

MASSACHUSETTS,

so ATTLEBORO, MASSACHUSETTS

study of their Old World pioneer inheritances, and as the history of the American
Attleboro connects at the beginning with Attleborough, England, it is fitting that
communications be exchanged in order to add to the proud fund of historic data
already collected.

The town of Attleborough, England, lies in the southern part of County Nor-
folk, and is a pleasant little place situated in the midst of a level bit of country,
its most important feature being St. Mary's Church, which was built centuries
ago and which contains some very interesting architectural features, the window
tracery being extremely beautiful. Attleborough shared with other towns of the
county a custom which allowed any person out of a home to seek refuge in the
church porch until other lodgings could be found, showing that housing conditions
in the early days sometimes resembled the present condition in New England.
In legendary history, St. Edmund, King of East Anglia, is said to have gone to
Attleborough and remained there an entire year, engaged in the pious duty of
committing the psalter to memory. Although surpassed in commercial pursuits
by its Massachusetts namesake, the town of Attleborough still has a charm of its
own which the younger place can never hope to attain.

BIDDEFORD, MAINE

A MEMORIAL tablet has been placed at Winter Harbour, now known as
Biddeford Pool, near the mouth of the Saco River, on the spot where the
L well-known English explorer Captain Richard Vines and his adventurous
crew of sixteen spent the winter of 1616-17, ^^'*° before the settlement of Plymouth.
After landing they proceeded about eight miles up the Saco River which carried
them to the Great Falls, as they called them, which now furnish power to the cotton
mills of the Pepperell Manufacturing Company and the York Manufacturing Com-
pany, both well known throughout the world, also to several other thriving
industries of Biddeford, including the Saco-Lowell machine shops which have sent
to many foreign countries the most modem mill equipment. Vines and his men
returned to England in the year 1617 with favorable reports and continued to make
voyages to this country for a number of years, transporUng colonists, so that as
early as the year i6zo there were a number of families, including that of Richard
Vines, in this very early Maine settlement. For his services this explorer received
from Sir Ferdinando Gorges a grant of all the land within the present limits of
Biddeford, the original deed, dated February 12, 1629, being now in the possession
of the Maine Historical Society.

Two earlier English explorers of this territory were Martin Pring, mentioned
in Part I, and Captain George Weymouth who, two years later, in 1605, took

BIDDEFORD, MAINE

possession of these lands in the
name of King James I.

Biddeford, Maine, probably
owes its name to John Parker and
others who came from Bideford,
England, about the time of the
town meeting, November 14,
1 7 18, when the settlement on the
west ade of the Saco River was
set off from Saco, on the east
side, imder the name of Biddeford,
the name being spelled, it will be
noticed, differently from that of
the mother town.

The First Congregational
Church of Biddeford, Maine, was
formed in 1730, and it is a tradi-
tion among some of the older
residents of Biddeford that the
good people of Bideford, Eng-
land, gave the Maine town a
church bell which arrived in Bos-
ton, whereupon it is supposed to
have passed into the hands of a
Boston church for the reason that
the Biddeford parish was at that
time too poor to pay freight on
it. Some believe it was a chan-
delier instead of a bell which thus
went astray.

The English Bideford, mean-
ing "by the ford," Uke Biddeford,
Maine, is on a river near the sea,
with a long bridge uniting the
two parts of the town similar to
the bridge between Biddeford
and Saco. Visitors from Bidde-
ford, Maine, to Bideford, Eng-
land, also discover that both have a St. Mary's Church. The English town is
now much the smaller of the two places, not having grown like its namesake.
Bideford, which received the right to bold a market in 1371 and was made a free

JC>«J<ufi fFahtr H. BraJlry. Ea^ tnJ
finru. H. #7ulc«, £ff.

DEBT mouth of the Saco River, where Captain Richard
Vines, the E^lish explorer, and his adventurous crew of
sixteen spent the winter of i6i6-ij. Vines received a grant
of the lands within the present limits of Biddeford.
'le words on the Tahlet read as follows: —

Richard Vdjzs, agent of Sir Fesdinando
Gorges, to experience and report upon the
CuiiATE of New England; visits the Indians b
their huts, and passes the winter of 1616 at the
present Leichton's Point, territory of
BmDEKiRii, while his ship lay in the nearby
"Winter Hakhor" until spring.

BIDDEFORD, MAINE

" TIU IFtJl Catil nf EtfitnA." Picuri

JTiWirii ^iilUT K. IFMiiu, Ejf.

BIDEFORD, ENGLAND
Biddeford, Maine, is named for this town.

borough in 1573, is a seaport and market-town in Devonshire, England, on the
banks of the river Torridge. In the sixteenth century Sir Richard Grenville did
much to stimulate the commercial trade of Bideford with America.

BRAINTREE, MASSACHUSETTS

BRAINTREE, first called Mt. Wollaston, formerly included Quincy and
Randolph and is one of the oldest communities in the State, The first
settlement was made on Black's Creek as early as 1625, when Captain
Wollaston and thirty of his followers came over from England and started a plan-
tation here, and a tablet has recently been presented by the Quincy Chapter of the
Daughters of the American Revolution to mark the establishment of this early
trading-post. It is believed some of these settlers came from Braintree, England,
and therefore gave the town its present name. The colony was a failure owing to
the intrigues of Thomas Morton of Clifford's Inn, London, who became notorious
on account of his gay May Day festival held at Ma-re-mount, of which much has

BRAINTREE, MASSACHUSETTS

been written. What we generally '
understand to be the "Braintree
Company" that came from Eng-
land to our Braintree was a group
of people including James 01m-
stedd, J. Talcott and a Dr. Good-
wyn who came over some years
later, in 1632, in the ship "Lyon"
under the auspices of Thomas
Hooker of Chelmsford, and who
settled in our Cambridge. Some
confusion has therefore arisen as
to these two groups of pioneers.
The town of Braintree, at first
often spelled Braintry, was really
not permanently settled imtil 1634,
when a number of people came
over here from the counties of
Devonshire, Lincolnshire and
Essex. The town was incorporated
in 1640 and comprised . the land
now included within the bounds
of Quincy, Braintree, Randolph

and Holbrook, the business center being at Quincy. Among those to whom early
grants were given were Coddington, Wilson, Quincy, Hutchinson and Wheelwright.
Joseph Loomys, or Lummys, who came from Braintree, England, was another
early settler. He was a woolen merchant and the founder of the American branch
of this family, the name now being spelled Loomis. Quincy was formed into a
separate township in 1793, and is known the world over as having been the New
England home of two Presidents of the United States.

The first attempt to establish an industry at Braintree was made in 1643 when
Governor Winthrop brought over some workmen to start there the manufacture
of iron, among the newcomers being Lionel Copeley from York County, Nicholas
Bond and others. Lynn, however, began this industry before Braintree and was
evidently more successful if we may judge from the words of one writer who said
that in the latter town they "pounded out less iron than they hammered out law
suits."

It may be interesting to mention that Captain John Smith on his map gave
Quincy the name of London; and the figures of a castle and cathedral were annexed
as showing the prosperity and grandeur to which he believed the town would attain.

There is also a Braintree in Vermont.

TABLET PLACED BY THE QUINCY CIL^PTER OF
THE DAUGHTERS OF THE AMERICAN REVO-
LUTION, IN QUINCY, MASSACHUSETTS,
ODce part of Braintree, where Captain Wollaston in 1615
Gist estAblished a trading post at Bkck's Creek. Fmn
him WoUaston, near Quincy and Braintree, received its

BRAINTREE, MASSACHUSETTS 55

The English town of Braintree in Essex County was once called "Branchetreu,"
a Saxon name meaning "town near a river," and was once the seat of the Bishops
of London. It bears evidence of having existed for generations. The earliest
part of the town was located on the banks of Pods Brook in the vicinity of what
is now known as Skitt's Hill; as the settlement expanded and the Romans built
their great roads, the population shifted toward the intersection of the two great
Roman highways. The annals of Braintree are rich in names that have become
famous not only in Britain but throughout the world; among these are John Ray,
the naturalist; Benjamin Allen, surgeon; Sir William Tilbury, who, though once
a boot-boy in a shop near the Square, became tutor of the children of the Em-
peror of Brazil; and Samuel Dale, author. Braintree's taverns also have been a
subject of considerable interest, and there are still left a number of them to tell of
the coaching days long past; one of the most famous is **The George Inn," the
sign of which stretched over the entire width of New Street. This town, with
Colchester, Dedham and several others, was called one of the "clothing towns"
of England on account of the fact that the woolen cloth weavers carried on their
business there. Toward the end of the eighteenth century hard times overtook
Braintree and in 1804 appeared these lines: —

"We saw two large townships called Braintree and Bocking
Where the tale of distress was of late years most shocking."

Silk mills, however, were erected there some years later, and both towns then
began to prosper.

Little Square is perhaps the most typical part of old Braintree, which contains
also many attractive and quaint streets. The parish church of St. Michael dates
back to 1 199.

BRIDGEWATER, MASSACHUSETTS

ON the roll of Mayors and members of Parliament of the town of Bridge-
water in Somersetshire, England, are found the names of Allen, Bryant,
Hooper and Mitchell, and because these names are familiar in the annals
of Bridgewater, Massachusetts, it is supposed that it was so called for English
Bridgewater in honour of that lovely village from which staunch Puritans emigrated
to American shores. The town of Bridgewater, Massachusetts, was incorporated
in 1656 and at first included territory now comprised by Brockton (formerly North
Bridgewater), East Bridgewater, West Bridgewater and parts of the towns of
Abington and Hanson. The land was originally a part of what was known as
"Duxbury New Plantation," which Miles Standish and others in 1645 ^d received
permission from the Old Colony Government to purchase from the Indians. Soon
after the purchase, some of the Duxbury proprietors, of whom there were in all

Pkcucrafluil h 1^''^'

In Foriii-RotrTtinn, Eit-

BRIDGEWATER, ENGLAND

fifty-four, became settlers here, and among the first to be assodated with them was
Deacon Samuel Edson, of Salem, the owner of their first mill, who became a pro-
prietor and settled with the Duxbury men near the Town River, where Tavern
Bridge crosses it. "And," continues the chronicler, "because this was the richest
land in the whole region, some of the Duxbury people who had taken shares in the
purchase settled near him, about the same time, on scattered farms from below
the present village of West Bridgewater gradually extending up the river to within
a mile of the head of it in Lake Nippenicket. One of the first of these was John
Howard, whose house was the first tavern — for more than a century the only tavern
— in the region; and for a long time the bridge nearby was the only bridge over the
river. This was, therefore, the center to which ail the primitive paths converged —
one from the Massachusetts Bay towns on the north, known as 'the Bay path;'
two others to the southeast along the river on opposite sides of it, through the
wilderness which is now Bridgewater, on the way to Plymouth; and others through
the woods north and south of Lake Nippenicket to Taunton on the southwest,
where the first settlers went to trade and carried grist on foot."

The Duxbury settlers, who in 1651 to 1656 fomided what is now West Bridge-
water, in 1662 to 1665 settled the land covered by the present Bridgewater, and
among the early farms were those of the Leonards, Washbums and Edsons. Until

BRIDGEWATER, MASSACHUSETTS 57

1822 the town meetings were held in West Bridgewater and for more than half a
century the church services were conducted in the same place.

The English seaport of Bridgewater lies in a romantic and historic part of Somer-
setshire where tales of King Alfred are still told, and where, six miles distant, the
noble Saxon king in 878 took refuge from the Danes encamped near the town.
This county, according to tradition, also witnessed King Arthur's desperate
encounters with the Saxon hordes who invaded Britain and who were met by
this famous king in that great battle in the West. The town itself grew up
around the ford, which appears to have been the only one across the river Parret,
as all roads led to it. **The ford," says the historian, "gave the name of Brugie,
or bridge, to the village in Saxon times. When William the Conqueror, after the
year 1066, parcelled England with his Norman barons, Brugie and the vicinity were
given to a Baron Walter and the place began to be known as Brugie- Walter, or
Walter's Bridge, which finally became Bridgewater."

In 1649 when Miles Standish and others purchased the "Duxbury New Plan-
tation" in America, the mother town was one of the most important places in
southwestern England and in that year Cromwell's army attacked the town and
castle which surrendered with sixteen hundred officers and men. Portions of the
old walls of the town and castle were standing until a century past. Two hundred
years after Cromwell assaulted and conquered Bridgewater and after Miles Stan-
dish had made his valuable purchase of New England territory, representative citizens
of Bridgewater, England, sent a letter dated September 10, 1846, to the town of
Bridgewater, Massachusetts. Correspondence ensued which made it apparent
that the English town presented to Parliament the first petition against the slave-
trade, with successful results. In these letters appeared names common to both
towns. Certain books and maps were sent to England with a letter from our
Bridgewater which was drafted by Rev. Paul Couch and Hon. Jesse Perkins of North
Bridgewater, Rev. Darius Forbes and Hon. John E. Howard of West Bridgewater,
Rev. Baalis Sanford and Rev. Nathaniel Whitman of East Bridgewater and Rev.
David Brigham and Rev. Claudius Bradford of Bridgewater. Hon. John Reed
also served on the committee. There are Bridgewaters also in Maine, New Hamp-
shire, Vermont and Connecticut.

59

BRIGHTON, MASSACHUSETTS

THE ancestors of several of the first settlers of Brighton, Massachusetts, came
from the vicinity of the English Brighton, called in eariy days Bristelmestune,
Bruyton and later Brighthehnstone, named from Brighthelm, an Anglo-
Saxon bishop of the tenth century. It is fair, therefore, to suppose that our Brighton,
incorporated in 1807 and now a part of Boston, was named for the fashionable
watering place in England frequented by King Edward VII, Queen Victoria and many
other royal persons, as well as by legions of "trippers" during the sunmier season.
The Royal Pavilion, built by King George IV as a maritime residence when he
was Prince of Wales, is imdoubtedly the most interesting feature of the town and
cost such a fabulous sum that Byron wrote about it the following couplet: —

**Shut up — no, not the King, but the Pavilion,
Or else 'twill cost us all another million."

This building is no longer a residence but is used for various purposes. Part of it
serves as a museum and among other interesting objects therein is a collection of
pottery decorated with American subjects, such as "The Landing of the Fathers
at Plymouth," "Landing of Roger Williams at Providence," bust of George Wash-
ington, etc.

Four miles from Brighton is the pretty village of Rottingdean where Rudyard
Kipling lived for some time.

Our Brighton was set apart from Cambridge in 1779, the committee appointed
to wait on the Honourable General Court with the petition being Samuel Willis
Pomeroy, Gorham Parsons, Stephen and Thomas Dana and Daniel Bowen.

There is also a Brighton in Maine and one in Vermont.

COVENTRY, CONNECTICUT

"And to-day, as we look o'er that village.
Named for the one 'cross the sea,
It seems to extend hearty welcome
To you, from old Coventry."

(The above is part of the last verse written by Ruth Amelia Higgins on the occasion of the
two hundredth anniversary of the founding of Coventry, Connecticut.)

A LTHOUGH a small town, Coventry has had such close relations with
/\ Coventry in England, that it should be included in this book. Pre-
JL jL vious to this two hundredth anniversary celebration, \^^lliam L. Higgins,
who has always shown a great interest in old Coventry across the water, and who
was President of the Coventry Town ConMnittee, sent the following letter to the
Mayor of Coventry, England: —

6o COVENTRY, CONNECTICUT

"CovENTJiY, Conn. U.S.
July 6, igij.
To THE HONODRABLE MaVOR, COVENTRY, ENGLAND.

Dear Sir:—

We are about to celebrate the 200th anniversary of the founding of this town, which
according to tradition, was named after Coventry in England. In view of the fact that
the first settlers in this town of Coventry were either Englishmen or of English descent,
some of whom, or their ancestors, may have come from your English city, or from ila
vidnity, it b very probable that in selecting a name for this place, as in the estabUdi-
ment of laws and customs, their minds reverted to the mother country and to the town
and surroundings from whence they came. We, therefore, accept the tradition as true
and feel that some communication either in person or by letter from you would be most
welcome to the people of this town, and very appropriate to the occasion. On behalf of
this town of Coventry we therefore extend to you a cordial invitation to be present as a
representative of your city at the celebrations of our anniversary, which wiU take place
during the last week in August, 1912, known as 'Old Home Week.' In case you cannot
be here, and are unable to send a representative, it will give us great pleasure to receive
some kind of acknowledgment or communication from you as a memorial of Coventry
in England.

Respectfully yours,

William L. Higgins, President Town Committee
Curtis Dean, Secretary Town Committee "

We are also going to quote the reply in order to show the great interest taken by the
old town in its namesake: —

"Tbe Chabtebbouse, Covehtkv
July 30, 191a.
To

WiLLiAU L. Higgins, Esq., M.D.
President of Town Committee,
South Coventry, Conn. U.S.A.
Dear 5«-.^

I was much interested to receive your letter of July 6th inviting me to the celebration
of the lootb anniversary of the founding of your town and I only regret that I am unable
to accept your kind invitation, but unfortunately all my days are practically taken up
and mapped out up to the end of my term of office, November ist, next.

I see no reason to doubt that the original founders of your town were connected with
OUT city as its citizens have always been capable of adapting themselves to the needs of
the age, as witnessed by their adoption of comparatively new industries such as the
bicycle and motor trades, after the shrinkage in the old watch and ribbon trades intro-
duced by tbe Huguenots, and this spirit of originahty no doubt prompted some c& our
ancestors 100 years ago to seek their fortunes in the New World, and to name their town
in memory of their old home.

At any rate there is a strong feeling among us that we have brothers and sbters in
America, and I shall with pleasure make known to our citizens the reception of the kind
wishes and senthnents of the New Coventry over the water, which are heartily reciprocated
and I trust that your Town may prosper in the same way as this ancient city has done.

I am sending you a few photographs of some of the beauty spots of our ancient city,
and believe me

With cordial greetings.

Yours very truly,

W. F. Wyiey, Mayor of Coventry "

COVENTRY, CONNECTICUT

M oviud ty AUan Fatbtt

COVENTRY, ENGLAND

This correq>ondence was followed by the following resolution passed by the citizens
of the Connecticut town at the regular town meeting held on the 7th of October,
191 3: —

"Raeived, That, We, citizens of the Town of Coventry in town meeting assembled
do hereby send to Coventry, England, Greeting: that we express to its Mayor and City
Council our hearty appreciation of and thanks for the kind reception which our bi-cen-
tennial message received from them, and also for the numerous books, pictures, papers
and other tokens of their interest and regard sent to us in return ; that we sincerely recipro-
cate the kind wishes and sentiments expressed in Mayor Wyley's letter to us, and that we
shall ever ho!d Coventry across the sea in affectionate remembrance and regard and
rejoice in her prosperity.

Attest.

John S. Chauplin, Town Clerk "

This celebration and the correspondence that ensued created a great deal of interest
in old Coventry, which, by the way, is sometimes referred to as the "town of the
three spires," and an account of the proceedings was printed in the Coventry Herald
in the English town. Many friendly letters were also received by our Coventry,
which included a very impressive letter from an English workman describing his
pleasure at the interchange of friendly messages between the two towns. These
letters including the article in the Coventry Herald, together with a number of

63

COVENTRY, CONNECTICUT

books, pictures and presents, sent
from the ancient city, are prized

r^ very highly by the town com-

^^^^■^^^^ mittee of our Coventry. Still
■^^^^^^^* another evidence of the friendship
between the two countries was
shown on this occasion of the
anniversary of the Connecticut
town, when ribbons from
Stephen's Factory in the English
town were worn as badges by the
citizens of our town.

Some years ago Dean Beau-
mont of Coventry, England,
visited New Haven and while
there recalled the fact that their
first Governor was Theophilus
Eaton, who was the son of an
early vicar of Holy Trinity,
Coventry, England, and that the
first pastor of the New Haven
church was John Davenport, the
son of a former Mayor of the
English Coventry. Davenport
with some friends visited Quin-
nipiac, the old Indian name for
New Haven, and founded a colony
there in the year 1638. Both had been students at the Coventry Grammar School.
Canon Beaumont at one time was able to save an historic building in New Haven,
whereupon he was made a corresponding member of its Historical Society. While
a guest of the town, Beaumont was received with much courtesy by Professor
Dexter of Yale University, whose wife was a descendant of Davenport, and who
had several times visited the old town in search of historical information reelecting
the founders of her dty.

There are at least five Coventrys in America, four of which are situated in
Connecticut, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island and Vermont, the Connecticut Coventry
being incorporated in 1712. The early petition to the Court gave a list
of six families most of whom are said to have come from Hartford, Connecticut,
and Northampton, Massachusetts. One of the interesting objects in connection
with the early history of the Connecticut Coventry was the will of the Indian
sachem "Joshua," which is preserved in the State Library at Hartford. The

PtMipaflutlby irnjn If. ApfUh KMvii Ian Fo

THE DAVENPORT HOUSE, COVENTRY,

ENGLAND

The home of the ancestors of John Davenport, who was one

of the founders of New Haven, Connecticut, and brst pastor

of the church there.

COVENTRY, CONNECTICUT 63

redskin made careful provisions for ^L^- I '~'VM

his children and their bringing ^Et^ ~ *'^— ; ^pM^

up, recording his wishes in these ^Bf ^^^^^^^^^m— ^.^^

"Further my Will my ^^P.' ^^^^^^^^HV^^^Hl ^ [

Children be brought up the first (our ^^m ^^^^P^^^^^^^^^|u jSt J

years with Trusty and their mother to ^^H ^^^^R^^^Bfel^^ ^^Vl ^ ^^Biij

teach them EngUsh . . . and at the ^^^c^^^Hj^^^^CjJ^^k^p/ «^^^d

expiration of the said four Years ^^^l^^^H^^B^b^^^^R' ~-^^^^|

desire my Children may be kept ^^B ^^^HB^^^^^^^hJi^ ^^^H

the ^^^^^^^^^^Kf '^^^^^^Kb ki^^ll

He especially desired that they ^^^^^^^^^^Sfl^^^^^F m^^^H 1

should be kept apart from the Con- ^^^^^Hr \''^^lHflH^^I ^Kb^BLj

necticut Indians, and made the ^^^|^^^^^ ^W^^^^B ^B^^^BI

further request that he be buried ^^^^^^^fen'd) ^^Hk^^l^H^^^^I

a Coffin after the ^^^^^^^|^«/g^^^^^^^|^^^^H

The town is best known as the ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^B
birthplace and home of Nathan ^^|^f3^' ,■-. 'mB^I

Hale who was as a spy in the ^^|^^|^^^H^^B|^^^^^^^^^^|

Revolutionary War, his last words, ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^H
*' My only regret is that I have but ^^Hj^^^^^^^^S^I^^S^^^^H
one life to lose for my country," ^^^BJBBHHHBHlHHHHIHBBHpi
being known the world over. A e'^gy OF PEEPING TOM, king's HE^UJEOIELi
beautiful monument has been set COVENTRY, England

up to his memory in the Nathan

Hale Cemetery in Coventry, other memorials also having been erected in
the east corridor of the State Capitol, Hartford, Connecticut, on the front
lawn of the Wadsworth Athenieiun, Hartford, Connecticut, in City Hall Park,
New York, and on the Yale Campus, New Haven. The town of this name
in Vermont was named for the Connecticut town in honour of Major
Elias Buel, whose father. Captain Peter Buet, was one of the first settlers in
the latter place.

To the reader the English Coventry, of course, suggests Lady Godiva and the
"Peeping Tom" incident. Tradition has been heaped upon tradition imtil
the story has assumed large proportions and today in the English town there
is an efl^ of the ciuious one — who was a tailor — in the wall of the King's Head
Hotel on Hertford Street. For his rashness, according to Tennyson, —

"His eyes, before they had their will
Were shrivell'd into darkness in his head,
And dropped before him."

64 COVENTRY, CONNECTICUT

It must be remembered, however, that Lady Godiva was a real person, the wife of
Leofric, mother of ^Elfgar, Earl of East Anglia, and that her remains were buried
in the monastery at Coventry.

The town itself has been the scene of many charming stories and a modern
chronicler well described its place in British history in these words: **It is a typi-
cally English city, whose history might serv^e as the 'abstract and brief chronicles'
of the time. A thoroughly corrupt borough in the worst days of municipal cor-
ruption, rigidly Puritan under the Stuarts, loyal under Elizabeth, steady for hered-
itary right at Mary's accession — but Protestant, as witness its martyrs — Lollard
in the heyday of Lollardry, patriotic and tolerant throughout the Hundred Years'
War — as England was, so was Coventry. In art and letters, also, the city recalls
what is most characteristic in the achievements of the English people. Here
flourished mediaeval architecture, an art wherein Englishmen have excelled greatly;
. . . while chance and the sojourn of George Eliot, have given the city associations
with the literary outburst of the Victorian time."

A part of the old wall begun in 1356 still remains; it is recorded that Charles I
made a breach in this wall in 1642 and that some years later another breach was
ordered by Charles II in revenge for the repulsing of his father's forces. Many
have believed that the famous Mother Shipton foretold the final destruction of
this wall when she prophesied that a pigeon should pull it down, which turned out
to be true, for the walls were eventually taken down during the Mayoralty of
Thomas Pigeon.

There are many old landmarks in Coventry and among other attractive feat-
ures are " the three tall spires " shown in the cut, which lend a dignity to the view as
one approaches the city. One of these spires is that of St. Michael's, said to be one
of the finest specimens of the florid or perpendicular style of architecture in England.

Coventry is the center of many industries such as woolens, hosiery, textiles,
watches, iron and brass foundries, printing, motor and cycle manufacturing. It is
well described by Michael Drayton, Poet Laureate in 1626, in these lines: —

**Now flourishing with fanes [temples] and proud pyramides [spires]
Her walls in good repair, her ports [gates] so bravely built,
Her halls in good estate, her cross so richly gilt
As scorning all the Towns that stand within her view."

In ancient documents the town was called Coventree, sometimes Coventria,

both names probably being derived from a convent established there in the

seventh century of which St. Osburg was the Abbess. When Queen Elizabeth

visited Coventry, the Mayor is supposed to have received his Sovereign with these

words: —

**We men of Coventree
Are very glad to see
Your Gracious Majestic.
Good Lord, how fair ye be I"

COVENTRY, CONNECTICUT 65

To which the Queen is said to have replied : —

"Our gracious Majestie
Is very glad to see
Ye men of Coventree.
Good lack, what fools are ye!"

In St. Michael's Cathedral is the burial-place of Ann Sewell, wife of William
Sewell, who is an ancestor of many of the family of this name in New England.
The famous Mrs. Siddons was married in Holy Trinity Church. John Davenport
was bom in Coventry in 15 17 and his house is still standing. The town quite re-
cently commemorated the centenary of George Eliot.

DOVER, MASSACHUSETTS

FORTY-FOUR American and Colonial Dovers, including the Maine and
Massachusetts Dovers and possibly the New Hampshire Dover, were rep-
resented at the great pageant held in Dover, England, in 1908. The chorus
sang the following two verses, one expressing the pleasure of Dover, England, in
receiving so many of her offspring, the other being an ode to the famous English

port: —

''And ye that hearken the while we sing,
Look up, and behold a wondrous thingi
For these her daughters from oversea,
That follow in Dover's company.
Forty and four
The wide world o'er,
And mothers of mighty sons to be —
These from the ends of the earth who came,
Share her honour, and bear her name —
With home-felt rapture around her throng.
And thrill to the dose of her triumph-songi"

''Oh, fair and majestic haven, couched under the seadififs white,
That title upon thee graven, Invicta, was thine of right.
For one with the waves thy glory, and one with the winds thy mi^t,
And the web of thine endless story is woven by day and night.
Of ocean's infinite yearning, criss-<:rossed with the to-and-fro
Of a thousand keels returning, a thousand that outward go I
From the frowning towers above thee, to the fringing foam below
To think of thee is to love thee, as all that, have Jbiown thee know."

The scene of this pageant must have been very inspiring, for nearby was the historic
Dover Castle, shown in the cut on the next page, and also Shakespeare Cliff, which
was chosen by Shakespeare for his famous scene between Edgar and Gloucester in
''King Lear." A mommient is to be raised on the Cliffs to the men who fell during

DOVER, MASSACHUSETTS

EMBARKATION OF HENRY VIII AT DOVER IN i
The original of this picture hangs in the Royal Apartments at Windsor Castle.

in those days Dover ranked high among the important ports of the world.

the Great War while serving in the splendid "Dover Patrol," whose duties were
shared by many Americans. A similar monolith will be erected near Cape Blanc Nez
in France and also on some government land overlooking New York Harbour, the cost
of the latter having been defrayed by subscriptions to the Dover Patrol Memorial
Fund Committee, the presentation of which was made on April 21, 1920, to our
Secretary of War by Major Evelyn Wrench, Hon. Secretary of the London Branch
of the English-Speaking Union. The memorial will testify to the spirit of co-opera-
tion which existed between the American and British navies during the late war.
Most of the travelers to Dover in the past have thought first of all of the channel
passage, whether it was to be rough or smooth, but it is inevitable that tourists
shoidd in the future take more interest in this town, which is a prosperous port,
an important garrison town, a naval depot, a popular watering place and a busy
commercial center, with a population of about forty-two thousand. It is only
twenty-two miles to France, and on a clear day the coast is clearly discernible, as
Wordsworth described m these words: —

"And saw, while sea was calm and air was clear.
The coast of France! the coast of France how near!"

It was from Dover that the first successful start was made to cross the Channel in
a balloon, on January 7, 1785, and in this port on July 25, 1909, landed M, Bl^riot,
the first to cross these waters in a monoplane.

Dover, situated in County Kent on the river Dour, is one of the historic Cinque
Ports, and furnished five ships which helped considerably in defeating the Armada.

05

DOVER, MASSACHUSETTS

m*\i

Plmttfr*^ Iry TMr Fine !r Ponrail Supply Co., IS, Lull St., Lticuur St., If. Kixiruii /m Forbn-Rntrrtm. Eiq.

DOVER CASTLE. DOVER, ENGLAND

The Massachusetts town has taken a great deal of interest in the English Dover
and, about the year 1845, officially appointed the Rev. Dr. Sanger in town meeting
to write a suitable reply to a letter of greeting sent from this channel port, but as
the subject did not appear in the Town Warrant, there is no record of this interest-
ing event. Again in 1898, when the Dover First Parish celebrated the one hun-
dred and fiftieth anniversary of its organization, fitting reference was made to the
mother town. In 1918, H. J. Taylor, Esq., of Dover, England, a member of the
British American Fellowship Committee, sent Dover an invitation to have any of
its men serving in the war visit the English seaport and so far as possible notices
were sent to all Dover boys informing them of this invitation.

In 1920 various publications giving the history of Dover were sent to the mother
town and were acknowledged for the corporation by the town clerk, Reginald E.
Knocker, Esq. In exchange, the Dover, Massachusetts, Public Library received
"Annals of Dover" by J, Bavington Jones; "Dover and the Great War;" and
"Dover, England's Gate" by Walter Emden, late Mayor of Dover, all volumes
being highly prized by the library.

Dover, Massachusetts, was incorporated as the Springfield Parish of Dedham
in 1748, as the District of Dover in 1784 and as the town of Dover in 1836.

There is also a Dover in Vermont.

EXETER, NEW HAMPSHIRE

THE begmninp of Exeter, New Hampshire, date back to the year 1638 when
Rev. John Wheelwright, being denied by the Massachusetts Bay Colony
freedom in reUgious matters and having incurred the displeasure of the
authorities, was banished from the Colony in 1637. With a small band of follow-
ers and companions he turned to the North and was given by the Indian sagamore
and his son, by deeds dated 1638 which are still preserved, title to a tract of land
about the Falls of the Squamscott. The name of Exeter was given to this settle-
ment in honour of Godfrey Dear-
bom of Exeter, England, who had
accompanied Rev. Mr. Wheel-
wright in his exile. There is on
record an estimate of the prowess
of Rev. Mr. Wheelwright on the
football field, written by Oliver
Cromwell who often played
against him while they were fel-
low-students at Cambridge Uni-
versity, and who declared later
that he used to be more afraid of
meeting Wheelwright at football
than he had been since of meeting
an army in the field. After grad-
uation Wheelwright took holy
orders and later became allied
with the Puritan movement and
was silenced for non-conformity.
In 1636 he landed in Boston and
soon after became pastor of a new
church gathered at Mt. Wollas-
ton, now Quincy. After falling
under the ban of the Massachu-
setts Bay Colony and settling in
this New Hampshire territory,
now Exeter, one of the first deeds

•tJ S. Boytr, Eji., Mdjtiitk S.

REPLICA OF THE COAT OF ARMS OF EXETER,
ENGLAND, IN THE ADMINISTRATION BUXLDING
OF PfflLLIPS-EXETER ACADEMY, EXETER, NEW

HAMPSHIRE,

prooind by Joseph S. Ford, Esq., at the guggestkm of the

President of the Board (A Tnisleea of the Acadony, S.

accomplished was the founding Sidney Smith, Esq. The present was sent in 1915 by A.

1. L u- L -11 ■ Wheaton, Esq., o( the English Eieter, and with it came a

of a church which StlU remains copy of the exemplification of the coat of anns given by

the Town Church. Rev. Samuel Q"f?\ Elizabeth, dated August^ 6, .564, the town, bemg

spelled txceter ai

Dudley, son of Governor Thomas placed is shown it

t. Eiq., and PkUlipt

im"LiUctExrUf" Kiitiiuit Eimund S. Boytr.

ADMINISTRATION BUILDING OF PHILLIPS-EXETER ACADEMY, EXETER, NEW
HAMPSHIRE,
in which there is a reproduction of the coat of amis of Exeter, England, shown in another illustration.

H PlaKpafliv Vital "/ So^ak D/»ji," CiU!<u tr fironi, Larido-i ATi'ni

EXETER CATHEDRAL, EXETER, ENGLAND

EXETER, NEW HAMPSHIRE

M

\

. 1'mjlJH

Urn iMi 1 mammr

#0

wKf^ ^wi

„tJi

Fnm-T>.^lii:lCr^ili,fE7<il^'^J" 1

'„,=.,.; G..-,/.-s,.

^"j f''.'.", Kiw«„ r:i4« a:. Wcikiiu. Ej,.

THE EXE BRIDGE, EXETER, ENGLAND

Dudley, a native of England, was pastor of this church for thirty-three years.
Another man who added to the fame of Exeter was John Phillips, who, bom in
Andover, Massachusetts, moved to Exeter in 1741. He taught for a time, then
engaged in trade in which he was very successful. He gave liberally to the cause
of education, contributing to Dartmouth College and, joining with his brother,
Samuel, founded Phillips-Andover. He later founded and organized Phillips'
Exeter Academy in 1783, remaining for twelve years as its head. Daniel Web-
ster, Edward Everett and General Lewis Cass (who was bom in Exeter in a house
which is still standing) are three well-known graduates of this Academy. The
Gilman, Ladd, French and Folsom families are others who have done much for
the development of the town from its earliest days down to the present time.
William H. Folsom who pitched the first curved ball for Harvard University was a
native of Exeter.

In 1915, through the efforts of Mr. Joseph S. Ford, at the suggestion of the Presi-
dent of the Board of Trustees of the Academy, S. Sidney Smith, Esq., of New York
City, a replica of the City Arms of Exeter, England, was sent to the New Hampshire
town by Mr. A. Wheaton, book publisher in the English Exeter. This now hangs
in the Administration Building of Phillips-Exeter Academy. An exemplification
of the coat of arms, as granted by Queen Elizabeth, dated August 6, 1564, and
verified as a copy by Mr. H. Lloyd Parry, Town Clerk, was sent from England
as descriptive of the replica and is now preserved in the Library of the Academy,
At the time the original document was written the manner of spelling the name of
the town in England was "Exceter."

Exeter, England, is situated in the county of Devon, on the river Exe, which
plainly shows whence came its name. This old English town is famous for the
number of sieges it sustained as the chief place in the southwest of England. In
early times it was called Caer Isc by the Britons, while later the Romans called it

72 EXETER, NEW HAMPSHIRE

Isca Damnoniomm. On an eminence near one of the railway stations may be seen
the ruins of Rougemont Castle, built by William the Conqueror, which was so
named for the colour of the rock oo which it was built, Exeter's principal edifice
is the cathedral, begun in iioo, which is famed for the beauty of its design and
the richness of its decorations. In the chapter-house of the cathedral is preserved,
among other valuable ancient manuscripts. Leofric's famous book of Saxon poetry.
The city has some shipping trade, communication with the sea being furnished
by the ship-canal originally cut in the reign of Elizabeth in 1564, This waterway
is an interesting work, being the first one carried out in the United Kingdom for
the purpose of enabling seagoing vessels to pass to an inland port.

FRAMINGHAM, MASSACHUSETTS

FRAMLINGHAM, England, which is spelled with an "I," is a small town
near Ipswich as shown in a letter written in 1900 by Rev. J. Holme PilkJng-
ton, Rector of Framlingham, to Peter N. Everett, Esq., Secretary of the
Bicentennial Committee of Framingham, Massachusetts:—

"A remark in an Ipswich paper a week or two back, will, I think, give you a good
idea of our present condition. It says 'Framlingham went to sleep in the time of Queen
Elizabeth, and has not woke up yet. You may make as much noise as you like, you will
never wake it now.' I am afraid there is much truth underlying the sarcasm."

Another note written in 1900 describes Framlingham as a "small town of rather
more than two thousand inhabitants. Though a small and (except locally) imim-
portant place now, it has great and interesting historical associations and the im-
posing ruins of Framlingham Castle testify to its ancient grandeur, I expect the
American daughter has altogether eclipsed her English Mother."

There have been a few interchanges of presents which have been sent chiefly
by the Rector, as the town does not boast of a Mayor, The most interesting
report, however, of the old town has been written by Mr. John M. Merriam and
we believe we cannot do better than quote parts of his account of his visit to Fram-
lingham, which he has kindly furnished for this article: —

"It was an unusual pleasure which fell to our lot May 26, 1914, to visit the Town of
Framlingham, in England, and it has been a continuing pleasure since our return to our
home in Massachusetts to study, so far as we have been able, the hbtory of this old
Mother town.

These two far distant Towns are connected through the life of Thomas Danlorth.
When the Pilgrims were endeavoring to preserve their frail settlement on these Massa-
chusetts shores in 1622, a son was bom to Nicholas Danforth in FramUngham, England,
The father, Nicholas, was a man of position in his community, in England, being a Vestry-
man in the established church. According to the custom of the church the son was bap-
tised at the old Font in front of the Altar and this font is still in use, and the record of his
baptism is preserved in the Parish records which can still be examined in consecutive order
from the century preceding his birth to the present time. The father moved from Eng-

FRAMINGHAM, MASSACHUSETTS

n rwuJ hi Jokn M. Mrrrint. Est.. 'I FraminiUii. Maiw

FRAMLINGHAM CHURCH, FRAMLINGHAM, ENGLAND

Tbe Rector of this church, Rev. J. Hohne Pilkington, sect lelteis at the time of the Bicentennial

celebration of the ucorporation of Framin^ham, Massachusetts, in igoo.

land in 1614. He had lost his wife in 1639 and he broi^ht with him the six children
she had \dt. He was among the early settlers of Cambridge. The son, Thomas, was
destined for important service in this new land. , . . According to Governor Hutchinson,
he had a 'great share in managing the public affairs in the most difficult times.' For
his pubUc service, and for money spent by him in the public interest, several grants of
land were made to him which were known as 'Danforth Farms' and this territory was
incorporated in 1700 as Framingham in remembrance of the town of his birth. Danforth
had died in the preceding year, November 5, 1699. The name was in use before the incor-
poration of the town and occurs in Danf orth's own letters, spelled Framingham. Our Town
Historian, Rev. Josiah H. Temple, gives a few references in our Colonial records in which
the English spelling Framlingham was followed. I have found a further instance of
this spelling in Cotton Mather's Diary, where he records, August 14, 1718, 'Divisions and
Confusions in the Church at Framlingham call for my best endeavors to bring them to
a period.' This will suffice to show the connection historically of Framlingham, England,
and Framingham, Mass.

A branch railroad leaves the main line about eighty miles from London, and ends at
the little Town of Framlingham, a township of some two thousand people in the northern
part of Suffolk County near the line of Norfolk.

. , , The oak seems to have flourished near Framlingham. Probably many of these

74 FRAMINGHAM, MASSACHUSETTS

giants of the forest went into the frigates and merchantmen which have carried the Eng-
lish Sag to all the seas of the world. One of these old giants was known as the ' Framling-
ham Oak,' an account of which is given in the 'Library of Entertaining Knowledge.'
This tree was used in the construction of the 'Royal Sovereign.' It yieldwl, so we read,
four square beams, each one forty-four feet in length, the largest one of which was four
feet nine inches square. These old English oaks were very dear to the EngHsh people,
as some of their old songs abundantly prove. Listen to the words of the familiar song
'Hearts of Oak.'

'Hearts of oak are our ships.
Jolly tars are our men.
We always are ready,
Steady boys, steady.
We'll fight and we'll conquer
Again and again.'
'They swear they'll invade us, these terrible foes.
They frighten our women, our children, our beaux.
But should their flat bottoms in darkness gel o'er
Still Britons they'll find to receive them on shore.'

Let us now turn to the history of Framlingham. It is a town of great antiquity b^in-
ning possibly with the Roman occupation. The ruins of a castle of very considerable
proportions crown the highest land, and with the old church nearby, are the principal
objects of interest. This old Castle is among the prominent ones of early England. All
It needs is the genius of another Scott to cast around it romantic interest similar to that
of Kenilworth, This Castle was the home of perhaps the foremost family in England,
the Howards, famous for many generations as the great House of Norfolk. It was this
family which furnished Thomas Howard, the second Duke of Norfolk, the English leader
of the battle resulting in the defeat of Scotland at Flodden Field, Closely connected with
the same family were those unfortunate royal cousins, Anne Boleyn and Catherine Hoirard,
wives of Henry VIII, who lost their heads at the command of their husband and king.
Another Howard was their powerful uncle, Thomas the Duke of Norfolk, who was saved
from death at the block by the death of the king himself the day before the time appointed
for the execution. . . . The present representative of the Howard family in England is
the Duke of Norfolk, often called the premier duke of England, as his title can be traced
to the earhest sources of all present titles.

Among the paintings of the last century is one of Framlingham Castle bearing date
1828, by John Sell Cotman, A.W.S. A friend recently gave to me a portfolio of copies
of English oils and water colors, and in it I was delighted to find a copy of Cotman's paint-
ing, which shows the castle as it stood eighty-six years ago. . . .

The author, Richard Green, gives two possible sources of the name Framlingtiam; -
one from the Saxon words Friendling and Ham — a stranger's home, or a habitation of
strangers; and the other from the name of the stream Fromas. The name antedates the
Domesday Book of William the Conqueror when it is written ' Framincham.' It became
a family name in 1330 as there is record of John de Framlingham, a Rector of Kelsale,
and in 1540 Henry VIII conferred a grant of land to Francis Framlingham, who held the
same from Thomas Howard, third Dukeof Norfolk, as 'Lord of the Manor of Framlingham
ad Castrum.'

In this history of Green's the Castle is called a 'pile of unknown antiquity.' An early
description by Dr, Henry Sampson, the Rector of Framhngham in 1650-1660 is this:
' Framlingham Castle is a very ancient structure, and said to have been built in the time
of the Saxons. It was one of the principal seats of St. Edmund the King and Martyr.
When he fled from Dunwich, being pursued by the pagan Danes, he took refi^ in this
Castle but being hard besieged, and having no hope of rescue, he fled from thence, and

FRAMINGHAM, MASSACHUSETTS

Fnm M fnMt itui iSi], SBUtf (y jIlUn Fori/i Fomrrh in tin mUirtion of J. H. Sim, ,

FRAMLINGHAM CASTLE, SUFFOLK, ENGLAND
Fiaroingham, MassachuaetU, is named lor Framlingham, England.

being overtaken by his enemies, was beheaded at Hoxon, from where long after his corpse
was removed and reinterred at Bury, called since Bury St. Edmunds,'

Dr. Henry Sampson gives the interesting description of Framlingham Castle, 'This
castle was g^ven by Kii^ Edward I to his second son, Thomas of Brotheron, Earl of
Norfolk and Marshall of England, who repaired it, as appeareth by his arms in diverse
places thereof.'

But the chief interest in Framlingham Castle is in its association with Mary, who
became Queen of England upon the death of her younger brother, Edward VI, in 1553.
When he died Mary was at Hunsdon in the north of England, and the message came to
her that her right to succeed was disputed and that she was destined for imprisonment
in the Tower of London. She turned as a fugitive toward Kenninghall in Norfolk County,
where at one time she had lived. . . . Kenninghall was unfortified, but only twenty miles
away was Framlingham Castle, encircled with moats and completely fortified, and here
she determined to make her stand as England's Queen. Directly Mary stood within the
magnificent area formed by the ckcling towers of Framlingham Castle, she felt herself
a sovereign; she immediately defied her enemies, by displaying her standard over the
gate-tower, and assumed the title of queen-regent of England and Ireland.

With the arrival of Queen Mary, Framlingham Castle became and remained for a
few days the seat of Government. Mary appointed a privy council who came to her
assistance at Framlingham and royal proclamations were issued from this Castle. . . .
On the last day of July, Mary began her triumphal march from FramUngham to London.
The opposition to her succession to the throne had been overcome, influential leaders had

76 FRAMINGHAM, MASSACHUSETTS

come to her support, an army had been placed at her command, ships sent to Yarmouth
in order to besiege, the Framlingham Castle had surrendered upon her order, money had
been supplied, and she had organized a Go\'ernment. This event in the life of Queen
Mary is thus summed up by the historian Knight; — 'Here Mary remained till the last
day of July. She entered the gates of Framhnghara after a hurried ride of secrecy and
fear. She went forth surrounded with armed thousands in the state of a Queen.' . . ,

The old church at Framlingham, as well as the Castle, is of unusual interest; it is
situated near the entrance to the castle. In this Church are the tombs of Henr>' Howard,
Duke of Norfolk, and his son the Earl of Surrey.

In the same comer of the Church is the tomb of Henry Fitzroy, the natural son of
King Henry VHI, known in histor>- as the Earl of Richmond. This King wrought speedy
punishment upon his Avives, ,\nne Boleyn and Catherine Howard when slander impeach-
ing their fidelity was brought to him, but he saw no wrong in his own association with
Lady EUzabeth Talbois, resulting in the birth of thb son in 1519. This boy lived only
seventeen years, but before his death he married Mary Howard, the sister of the Earl of
Surrey. This boy was not only acknowledged by his father, but had all the favor and
training which could have been given him as the legitimate Prince. Froude states that
he was 'a gallant high spirited boy,' that his 'beauty and noble promise' were at once
' his father's misery and pride,' and adds ' if this boy had lived he would have been named
to follow Edward VI in this succession and would have become King of England.* To
what strange fancy are we led as we pause at the tomb of this boy in the Framlingham
Church and conjecture how his life, had it been spared, might have changed the whole
course of English history.

But our most pleasant recollection of Framlingham centers around the Rectory occu-
pied by the Rev. James Holme Pilkington, Our letter of introduction from Mr. Peter N.
Everett in the name of the Selectmen of Framingham secured a very cordial welcome
from the Rector and his wife. He recalled his correspondence with our Bicentennial
Committee in iSgg and 1900, parts of which have already been quoted, and expressed an
interest in our populous community, which in commercial prosperity has far outstripped
the English town. We were made welcome in his home, learned from him something of
the history of the Castle and of the Church, saw the old Parish register, partook of tea at
his table, and walked about his beautiful grounds. It was a welcome many miles from
home, and in a strange land, from one we had never met before, but it had the warmth
and sincerity as from an old friend. The hospitaUty of our host expressed to us a bond
of real kinship between the English Framlingham and the American Framingham."

The English Rector in one of his letters to Mr. Everett wrote: —
" I am sending by this post a packet containing the guide to Framlingham which I prom-
ised, and also a small local Almanack containing a short retrospect of the past year, with
three or four back numbers of our small local paper. You will see, as you doubtless al-
ready know, that we are very much behind you in the matter of journalism. I am unable
to send you a facsimile of our official seal, as Framlingham does not pK>ssess such a thmg.
We are under the rule of Parish Council, which are seiil4ess corporations."

There is only one Framingham in the United States.

77

GREENWICH, CONNECTICUT

THE town of Greenwich in the county of Kent, England, from which Green-
wich, Connecticut, received its name, is celebrated as the home of many dis-
tinguished individuals. Dr. Johnson lived there for a short time and liked
the town, although he and his companion agreed that they liked London much
better. He must have enjoyed the place a great deal, however, for he described it
in the following lines: —

* **0n Thames's banks in silent thought we stood,
Where Greenwich smiles upon the silver flood;
Pleased with the seat that gave Eliza birth.
We kneel and kiss the consecrated earth."

(Eliza refers to Queen Elizabeth.)

Greenwich has been spoken of as the ** marine residence" of the kings and
reached its zenith at the time of Charles I. During the reign of Henry VIII many
tilting tournaments were held there, the King himself being most skillful at this
ancient sport. Besides excelling in tilting, he was also good at other games, for
we are told that once on a visit to France he defeated a huge German in a combat
with battle-axes, being beaten, however, by Francis I of France in wrestling. King
Henry's brother-in-law, Charles Brandon, whose marriage took place at Greenwich
in 1515, was also an exp)ert at the tilts, and at one tournament held in France he
won over all comers in a contest in which pointed spears were used. The following
extract from a challenge issued in 1606 well expresses the romance and excitement
attending one of these tournaments: —

**To all honourable men at arrmes, and knights, adventurers of hereditarie note and
exemplarie noblesse that for moste maintainable actions do wield eyther sword or lance in
quest of glorie."

At another meeting it is said that three hundred spears were " shivered '^ in one
day's sport.

Henry VIII was bom in Greenwich and lived there the greater part of his early
life, in the gay days of the town. It was there that he resided after his marriage in
1509 to Catherine of Aragon, with whom he lived happily for several years. While
she was in the good graces of the king, Catherine took an active interest in the
affairs of the nation. It is told of her that when business was dull in Bedfordshire,
the center of the lace industry, she burned her lace, ordering more to be made,
and, in recognition of this royal patronage, as late as the nineteenth century the
lace makers kept "Cattem's Day" as a holiday of their craft. It was from Green-
wich that this unfortunate wife had to depart in 1531 to give place to Anne Boleyn,
and from that time on, the cruel career of King Henry is only too well known.
Queen Elizabeth, who was a daughter of King Henry VIII and Anne Boleyn, was

Frtm n M ri" OtnuJ h 'lllan Ferit,

GREENWICH HOSPITAL, GREENWICH, LONDON, ENGLAND,

NOW THE ROYAL NAVAL COLLEGE

Greenwich ia now part of London. Many important events in England's histoiy took plAce there.

bom at Greenwich and raised the village to the position of a town. It was during
the reign of this queen that Drake circumnavigated the globe and after this event
sailed up the Thames in front of her Greenwich Palace to receive honours from
Queen Elizabeth, who dined on board Drake's vessel and knighted the famous
explorer.

The Royal Naval College is a feature second only in importance to the Royal
Observatory. Before being taken over for the present purpose, this splendid range
of buildings was known as Greenwich Hospital, and it is interesting to know that its
pensioners were benefited indirectly by the well-known pirate Captain Kidd, whose
property was sold after his execution in London and £6472 therefrom given to the
hospital. There is a "Nelson" room in this College, containing some fine paintings
of that great seaman's victories. On the site of this building once stood the Royal
Palace in which Henry VIII, Queen Mary and Queen Elizabeth were bom, and
Edward VI died.

Cardinal Wolsey lived in Greenwich and also the family of General Wolfe of

GREENWICH, CONNECTICUT 79

»

Canadian fame. It is from the meridian of Greenwich that geographers reckon
longitude and from the Royal Observatory the hours are flashed to every part of
England and Scotland by means of the "motor" clock which is one of the many
extraordinary instruments of this institution.

The connecting links between old Greenwich in England and new Greenwich in
Connecticut were the two brothers John Mead and Joseph Mead, who were born
in Greenwich, England, now part of Greater London, and who settled in that part
of Greenwich, Connecticut, now called Sound Beach, formerly named Elizabeth's
Neck in honour of Queen Elizabeth, and later Greenwich, to commemorate the birth-
place of these two Meads. The two brothers were buried in the old cemetery in
Sound Beach, having lived in that Connecticut town for the greater part of their
lives, except during the time of the controversy between the English and the Dutch
over the sovereignty of the settlement, when they temporarily moved to Hempstead,
Long Island.

John Mead made his first purchase of land in Greenwich in the year 1660 and
from then to the present time this name has been one of the most important in the
town. Eleven out of twenty-three subscribers towards the Greenwich Library
were members of the Mead family. The following story is told in Greenwich of
this early settler: —

One day when he was riding on horseback Mead overtook a man walking along
the road with a heavy bundle and asked him whether he couldn't carry it for him.
**No," was the reply, "you don't get my bundle, for I can read men's thoughts."
This, of course, irritated Mead. In a short time they came to a river which had
to be forded, whereupon the horseman offered to take the suspecting traveler over
the stream on his horse; the offer was accepted, and Mead, on reaching the deepest
part, precipitated his passenger into the water, telling him it would teach him a good
lesson.

Joseph Mead, the brother, was one of the "Twenty-seven Proprietors of 1672"
of the Town of Greenwich; other important names were Peck, Lockwood, Reynolds,
Close, Ferris and Palmer.

Two other early settlers were George Hubbard and Robert Husted, both well-
known names in our Greenwich. The former was probably bom in Somerset,
England, coming to this country about 1635 and buying land in the town in the
year 1659; the latter sailed from England for Massachusetts in 1635, moving to
Stamford, Connecticut, several years later. He was a witness in 1640 to the Indian
deed to Greenwich, conveying part of the town to Robert Feaks and Captain Daniel
Patrick, who landed at Greenwich Point as agents of the New Haven Colony for
the purpose of acquiring that property at Greenwich. It may be interesting to
mention that Feaks' wife was the widow of Henry Winthrop, son of Governor
Winthrop of Massachusetts. These two men at once settled at Greenwich, where
they died a few years later.

8o GREENWICH, CONNECTICUT

The early settlers had much trouble with the Indians, but finally made an
agreement with the Dutch providing that their combined forces should be used in
case of Indian attacks.

The early town of Greenwich, or Old Town, as it was called, included the terri-
tory between the Mianus River on the west and the town of Stamford on the east.
The town soon spread ueiitwani beyond the river, this settlement being known in
1669 by the curious name of Horseneck, so called because its shape was said to
resemble a horse with his neck outstretched. This name was used until 1849,
although the consolidation of the two towns took place in 1705, The patent for
the town was granted onl\- on the condition that an orthodox church should be
maintained and the first church stood near the Greenwich Cove.

In the year 1673 pot^tal trips on horseback were inaugurated over the trail that
was at first known as the Westchester Path, later called the Country Road, then
the King's Highway, Post Road, Turnpike Road, and finally the Post Road again,
by which name it is now known. The messenger allowed people to travel with
him. A weekly packet service between Greenwich and New York was also es-
tablished as early as 1696, to carry produce and passengers.

No visitor should go to Greenwich without visiting the scene of General Israel
Putnam's famous ride of the Revolutionary War. The centennial of this event
was held at Greenwich on February 26, 1879, and on that occasion there were
present as guests a great-grandson of Putnam and also a grandson of Thomas
Merritt of Canada, the Tory who chased the General to the brow of the hill, down
which he galloped his horse, "daring to lead where not one of many hundred foes
dared to follow."

The history of the nearby city of Stamford is closely comiected with that of
Greenwich, as the latter place was m the early days part of the former.

There is also a Greenwich in Massachusetts.

HAVERHILL, MASSACHUSETTS

"Graceful in name and in thyself, our river

None fairer saw in John Ward's pilgrim flock,
Proof thai upon their century-rooted stock

The English roses bloom as fresh as ever.

Take the warm welcome of new friends with thee,
And listening to tfiy home's famiKar chime
Dream that thou hearest, with it keeping time,

The bells on Merrimac sound across the sea.

Think of our thrushes, when the lark sings clear,
Of our sweet Mayflowers when the daisies bloom;
And bear to our and thy ancestral home

The kindly greeting of its children here.

HAVERHILL, MASSACHUSETTS 8i

Say that our love survives the severing strain;
That the New England, with the Old, holds fast
The proud, fond memories of a common past;

Unbroken still the ties of blood remain!"

THE above lines were written by the poet John Greenleaf Whittier, at the
time that Hon. Daniel Gurteen, Jr., Chairman of the Local Board of Ha-
verhill, England, and his daughter, Miss Grace Gurteen, officially visited
our city of Haverhill, in 1890, on
its two hundred and fiftieth anni-
versary. Mr. Gurteen and his
daughter called on Mr. Whittier
at his home in Danvers and it
was there that he wrote these
impromptu lines, which he dedi-
cated to the young English
woman. The EngUsh Chairman
in the following letter had been
officially asked by the Mayor of
Haverhill, Massachusetts, Hon.
Thomas E. Bumham, to repre-
sent his town at this celebra-
tion: —

"Mavob's Office, Haverhill, Mass.
March 15, 1S90.

To THE ChAIIUCAN OF THE LoCAL

Board,

Haverhill, England.
Sir.—

In the year 1640, Rev. John
Ward, bom in Haverhill, England,
penetrated with a small band of
followers into what was then a
wilderness, and formed a little set-
tlement on the banks of the Merri-
mac River, in what is now Essex
County, Massachusetts. In honor
of their devout pastor they named
the settlement Haverhill for his
home in England. . . .

This year, on the second and
third of July, we propose to have
a celebration of the quarter-millen-
nial anniversary of the settlement
of our city, and recognizing the ties
that bind us to your own ancient
town, and feeling that it would

a pluuff^plt Kindnii, Mt C. M

ADDRESS FROM HAVERHILL, ENGLAND, TO
HAVERHH-L, MASSACHUSETTS,
brought to this country by Hon. Daniel Gurteen, Jr., Chair-
man of the Local Board of the English town, on the occaacM
of the two hundred and fiftieth anniversary of our town, in
i8qo. It is now in the Haverhill (Massachusetts) Public
Library.

Another document sent by the English town twenty-five
years later bangs in the Mayor's office in the City Hall of oul
HaverhiU.

HAVERHILL, MASSACHUSETTS

SHIELD SENT BY HAVERHILL, MASSACHU-
SETTS, TO HAVERHILL, ENGLAND, IN 1S90,
where it now hangs in the Town Hall, It is mode of
wood from an old oak tree that grew on the place in
Haverhill where Whittier was boni.

afford real pleasure not only to mj^elf
but to the people whom I have the
honor to represent to have Old Haver-
hill over the sea represented on that
occasion, I take great pleasure in ex-
tending to j'ou the freedom of the city
during that event, and in inviting
yourself and lady to be the guests of
the city on that occasion.

Hoping that you will favor us with
your presence, and that we shall receive
an early acceptance of the formal invi-
tation that will be forwarded to your
Honor in a few days,

I am yours truly,

Thomas E. Bornham,

Mayor of HciverhiU, Mass. US-A."

The Englishman brought with him
the following congratulatory ad-
dress, ^-ery attractively gotten up
and signed by the town officers,
ministers and citizens of his town;
it is now in our Haverhill Public
Library : —

"To cat: honourabu: the Mayor,
THE City CoiraaL and axizENS
OF Haverhill, Massachusetts, in
TBE United States of America:

We, the undersigned local authori-
ties, public officers, and citizens of the
ancient mother town of Haverhill, in the counties of Suffolk and Essex, in England, desire
to convey to you our friendly greeting and hearty congratulation upon the celebration of
the 250th anniversary of the settlement, in the year a.d. 1640, by John Ward, a native of
this place, and others who accompanied him from the Old World to the New. We thank
you for the opportunity of being represented on this auspicious occasion, not merely as
an acknowledgment of the natural tie which exists between our respective communities,
but also as a proof of the kindly spirit which prevails on your side towards us here. We
assure you that your good will is most cordially reciprocated, and that we highly appre-
ciate the kind invitation extended to us through our representative; and we trust that
his visit may still further promote friendly relations of an abiding kind. We rejoice with
you at the continued progress of your city, and earnestly hope that it is destined to enjoy
still greater prosperity, so that its future may be even brighter than its past, and that it
may steadily grow in everything conducive to the welfare of its citizens and the advance-
ment of our common civilization.

Dated this 27th day of May, 1890."

In recognition of the courtesy shown by the English town and in memory of the
visit of Mr. Gurteen and his daughter, our city of Haverhill sent to the English

HAVERHILL, MASSACHUSETTS

town a medallion, a shield in
the form of the coat of arms
of the Commonwealth of Mas-
sachusetts, carved in wood
from an old oak tree that
grew on the place in Haver-
hill where Whittier was bom,
with the city seal in the center
and smaller carved medallions
in the comers. It now hangs
in the Town Hall of the Eng-
lish Haverhill. An album was
also sent to Mr. Gurteen con-
taining photographs of some
of the prominent citizens of
the Massachusetts city. Hon.
William H. Moody, afterwards
Secretary of the Navy, Attor-
ney-General and Justice of
the Supreme Court of the
United States, was one of the
Committee appointed to pre-
sent these gifts. These presents
were received with a great deal
of ceremony at a large recep-
tion held in the Town Hall
and acknowledgment was sent
to our city later. Details of
these English proceedings and
of the Haverhill celebration
are given in "The Story of a
New England Town" pub-
lished in 1891, which gives all
the correspondence and an ac-
count of Mr, Gurteen's visit,
with copies of articles from
the papers of Haverhill, Eng-
land. The Haverhill Public
Library treasures several auto-
graphed letters of Mr. Gurteen
which were sent to residents

F'tm M plmutrit'' KMnrii John G. MonlBm, Eiq.

MEMORIAL TABLET IN THE PARISH CHURCH,
HAVERHILL, ENGLAND,

erected to Rev. John Ward, grandfather of Rev. John Ward
who was the first minister of Haverhill, Massachusetts. A
drawing made from the original tablet is owned by the Haver-
hill, Massachusetts, Puhlic Library, and is loaned to the
Haverhill Historical Society. The inscription is in the text.

Haverhill, Massachusetts, was so named in honour of Rev.
John Ward, who, born in the town of the same name in Eng-
land, settled on the hanks of the Merrimac soon after 1640.

84 HAVERHILL, MASSACHUSETTS

of Haverhill, Massachusetts, in 1891 and tS^i, aod it also has received news-
papers, books and other presents which have come across the ocean as gifts
from the English Haverhill. On the occasion of the two hundred and fiftieth
armiversary, cables were interdianged between the two Ha\'erhills and at the
anniversary banquet an address was made by Hon. Le\-erett Saltoostall of
Boston, a descendant of Richard Saltonstall, who was very active in the eariy
days of our Haverhill and v\ho was descended from Rev. John Ward. Nathaniel
Saltonstall having married a daughter of John Ward. Whittier wrote a poem
for the occasion which was read at the literary- exercises, in which he alluded to
old Haverhill, as foUows:—

"We see, their rude-buih huts beside,
Grave men and women anxious-eyed,

And wistful youth remembering still
Dear homes In England's Haverhill."

In 1915 when our Haverhill commemorated its two hundred and seventy-fifth
anniversary, there was another exchange of greetings between the two Haverhills
and at this time the English town sent a very attractive document which has been
framed and which now hangs in the Mayor's Office, City Hall. Hon. Albert L.
Bartlett was Mayor of our Haverhill at that time and wrote an account of old
Haverhill in which we have found much of interest. The first part of the name is
derived from the Anglo-Saxon "hoefer" meaning a "he-goat." In the old records
the name is spelled "Haverell" or "Haverhull." The town is situated partly in
Essex County and partly in Suffolk County, about fifty-five miles northeast of
London and not far from Cambridge, High Street which runs through the town
being part of an old Roman road connecting Cambridge and Colchester. Into
this settlement the Huguenot, or Flemish, exiles brought the art of weaving three
hundred and more years ago and on their hand looms was first woven the coarse
homespun cloth of linen and wool. From these humble begiimings, however, have
grown the present mills, employing many hundreds of operatives. The town is
partly a manufacturing and partly an agricultural center and withal a market
town; its annals, although interesting, contain no events of national importance.
Messrs. Gurteen and Sons are the leading manufacturers of the English town,
employing in their textile plant more than half of the population of forty-five hun-
dred persons living there. The Town Hall was built in 1883 by the late Daniel
Gurteen to commemorate his golden wedding and it was in this hall that the gifts
sent to Haverhill, England, in September, 1890, were exhibited. Unfortunately
the early records of the town perished in the fire of 1665.

In 1881 Rev. F. T. Ingalls, a native of Haverhill, Massachusetts, visited the
English Haverhill and wrote a letter describing the place, which was published in
one of the newspapers of our city.

HAVERHILL, MASSACHUSETTS

Kiiufruii Jakn G. ModItidi, £i).

PARISH CHURCH, HAVERHILL, ENGLAND,

in which the original tablet, shown in another illustration, has been placed in memoiy of Rev. John Ward,
gtandfather of Rev. John Ward, first minister of Haverhill, Massachusetts. This picture is in the Haverhill
Public Library, Haverhill, Massachusetts.

The Indian name for the site of our city was "Pentucket" and when it was
settled in 1640 it was named Haverhill in honour of its first minister, Rev. John
Ward, mentioned above, who was bom in Haverhill, England, in 1606, and who
was the son of Rev. Nathaniel Ward, first minister of our Ipswich. The home
of John Ward, afterwards owned by the Saltonstalls, and the first framed house
in the town (now a city), is still preserved on the exact spot on which it was orig-
inally built in the sixteen himdred and forties, on the grounds of the Haverhill
Historical Society- Over the mantel of the old house is a tablet which gives the
history of the house and of the Saltonstall family and which also commemorates
the fact that it was given to the Historical Society in memory of that family. In the
Historical Society is a painting of the memorial tablet to John Ward's grandfather
copied from the original in the Parish Church in Haverhill, England, the wording
being as follows: —

W7THERSFIELD ROAD, HAVERHILL, ENGLAND

John Warde after he with great evidence Si
power of ye spirit & with much fruit preached
ye gospel at Haveril Si Bury in Sufi* 25
yeares was heere gathered to his fathers
Susan his widdowe noarried Richard Rogers
that worthie Pastor of Wethersfielde. He
left 3 sonnes Samuel Nathaniel John preachers
who for them & theirs wish no greater blessinge
than yt they may continue in beleeveing
and preaching the same Gospel till ye comming
of Christ Come Lord Jesus come quicklye

There is also a Haverhill in New Hampshire which took its name from Haver-
hill, Massachusetts, for the reason that the first white persons who permanently
occupied its territory came from that town about 1761.

87

HULL, MASSACHUSETTS

HULL, Massachusetts, was undoubtedly named for Hull, England. It will
be remembered that the passengers on the '^Mary and John" were put
ashore here at Nantasket Point, her captain leaving the " Godly families
from Devonshire and Dorsetshire" to shift for themselves. Roger Clap later on
took some of his shipmates up the river to Watertown. Among the first permanent
settlers of our Hull was John Prince, an exile in Cromwell's day.

Hull, England, officially known as Kingston-upon-Hull, is the third port of
the United Kingdom, and was founded by King Edward I in 1296. From 1598
to 1865 ^s seaport engaged in the whale fishery, and has the distinction of being
the first port to dispatch to the fishing grounds a steam-whaler, which was called
the Diana.

This city has several features of historical interest, mainly connected with
the struggle for civil and religious freedom in the seventeenth century. At the
opening of the contest between Charles I and his parliament the King failed in his
attempt to win over the city of York and, indeed, narrowly escaped capture. He
fled in haste to Hull, confidently expecting its gates to open to him and to have
there a base for further operations. A severe blow was dealt at the royalist cause
when the citizens stoutly refused entrance to him, closed the gates, and declared
for the Parliament.

James II, perhaps in revenge for his father's rebuff, took from the city its charter
and everything else he could lay his hands on, just as he did from London, when
the Lord Mayor of that City was so overcome that he fell upon his knees crying
cynically, "Will your Majesty please leave us the Thames? " This, like all James'
arbitrary acts, was reversed when William of Orange ascended the throne with
Queen Mary.

It is not as widely known as it should be how closely Hull was associated with
the Pilgrim Fathers. The earliest exiles for religious liberty were drawn from
Gainsborough and its neighborhood, little more than thirty miles from Hull.
Their inmiediate objective was Holland, for which country there were two possible
places of embarkation — Boston and the estuary of the Humber. In 1609 they
made the attempt by Boston, were betrayed by a ship's captain, arrested and cast
into prison. Being eventually liberated, they repeated the venture the following
year, led by John Bradford, the future Governor, and Elder Brewster. This time
they were, at least, partially successful. Their leaders escaped from a creek op-
posite Hull and the rest followed later in separate groups, mostly from the same
estuary.

Amongst the most courageous and determined of the Pilgrims who twelve years
later sailed from Delf shaven were those who had come from the Gainsborough district.

From Hull sailed the Rev. Ezekiel Rogers, Rector of the nearby village of

HULL, MASSACHUSETTS

PhMm-phrd h Tonn ir Driit^a

Kiml«rii Inn Farbil-RnbrrUn. Elf.

HULL, ENGLAND,
showing Princes Dock. Hull is the third port of importance in the United Kingdom.

Rowley, who is described under our article on that place. Along with Rogers
sailed the greater portion of his congregation. William Penn also made Hull his
port of departure.

Andrew Marvell, patriot, wit and satirist as well as earnest Puritan, whose
statue now occupies an honoured place in the city, was the son of a Puritan clergy-
man of Hull. He became Latin Secretary to Cromwell, along with John Milton,
and represented HuU in Parliament from 1660 to the end of his life in 1678.

In still later days Hull was the birthplace and home of William Wilberforce,
whose name will ever be associated with the abolition of slavery in the British
dominions. His residence, once the home of a Puritan Mayor of the city, is still
preserved in its original state. It Is now used as a museum and is full of deeply
interesting mementos both of the slave trade and the city's history. Wilberforce's
memorial — a lofty pillar on a massive [)ediment crowned with his statue — is in
the very heart of the city.

In prehistoric times the district embracing Hull was inhabited by a race of
Celts called "Dohcho-Cephaloid," these Greek words merely meaning "Long-
Heads," still a characteristic of Yorkshlremen. Then came the Brigantes, or high-
landers, named in Juvenal as the most numerous and important of the British
tribes, which were the last of the andent Britons to submit to the Romans.

HULL, MASSACHUSETTS 89

At a meeting held in Hull, England, recently, a fund, the equivalent of about
one hundred and fifty dollars, was raised for the erection of a monument at Killing-
holme to conmiemorate the spot whence most of the Pilgrims left for Holland.

IPSWICH, MASSACHUSETTS

" I love to think of old Ipswich town.

Old Ipswich town in the East countree.
Whence, on the tide, you can float down

Through the long salt grass to the wailing sea,
Where the ' Mayflower ' drifted off the bar.

Sea-worn and weary, long years ago.
And dared not enter, but sailed away
Till she landed her boats in Plymouth Bay.

I love to think of old Ipswich town;

Where they shut up the witches until the day
When they should be roasted so thoroughly brown.

In Salem village, twelve miles away;
They've moved it off for a stable now;

But there are the holes where the stout jail stood,
And at night, they say, that over the holes
You can see the ghost of Goody Coles.

I love to think of old Ipswich town;

That house to your right, a rod or more,
Where the stem old elm trees seem to frown

If you peer too hard through the open door,
Sheltered the regicide judges three

When the royal shenffs were after them.
And a queer old villager once I met.
Who says, in the cellar, they're Uving yet.

I love to think of old Ipswich town;

There's a graveyard up on the old High Street,
Where ten generations are looking down

On the one that is toihng at their feet;
Where the stones stand shoulder to shoulder, like troops

Drawn up to receive a cavalry charge.
And graves have been dug in graves, till the sod
Is the mould of good men gone to God."

(The above are some of the verses of a poem written by James Appleton Morgan, entitled " Ipswich
Town.")

THERE are probably few residents of Ipswich, Massachusetts, who are aware
of the fact that the clock now in the Chapel of the First Church, marked
"Moore, Ipswich," was a present sent by the English town from which Ips-
wich got its name. It was sent over, together with some photographs of old Ipswich,
by Sir Daniel Goddard of the Congregational Church of Ipswich, England, just

90

IPSWICH, MASSACHUSETTS

after the celebration of the two
hundred and fiftieth anniversary
of the incorporation of the Mas-
sachusetts town held in 1884, and
with it came a cable of congratu-
lations given below. Sir Dani^
Goddard, M.P., was a guest of
the town, and only a short time
ago Hon. William F. Paul, for-
merly Mayor of old Ipswich, sent
to the Historical Society of the
Massachusetts town several vol-
umes of illustrations of andent
buildings of his town and an
elaborate portfolio containing a
copy of the proclamation of King
Edward VII. In return the new
Ipswich sent a history of the
town written by the late Rev.
Thomas Franklin Waters, A.M.,
President of the Historical So-
ciety. On the anniversary of
the Massachusetts town, above
referred to, in 1884, a letter was
read from the Mayor of Ipswich,
England, part of which is as
follows: —

"I regret it is not in my power to be
present at the celebration of the two
hundred and fiftieth anniversary of
the incorporation of the town of
Ipswich, Mass., as my mayoralty duties entirely prevent my being absent from home
for any long period during my year of office. I should have returned thanks for old
Ipswich among some of the descendants of those who emigrated from their native land
in order that they might have freedom to carry out their poUtical and religious opinions,
which was denied them in England. . . . Wishing that your enterprising town may
increase and prosfier, and ever be celebrated for its civil and religious liberty.

Yours faithfully,

John May, Mayor oj Ipswich, England.
To John Heard, Esq., of the Committee of Arrangements,"

., JoufK I. Horun, £,q. and tlu Uu

CLOCK PRESENTED TO THE FIRST CHURCH
OF IPSWICH, MASSACHUSETTS,

by Sir Daniel Goddard of the Congregational Club oi
Ipswich, England, ia 1884.

The following was the cable received from the Corporatioi
congr a tu lations : —

of Ipswich, conveying

IPSWICH, MASSACHUSETTS

Omud by Allan fori/1

ST. MATTHEW'S GATE. IPSWICH, SUFFOLK, ENGLAND

"Aug. 15, 1884.
The Corporation of Ipswich, England, send their hearty congratulations to the Corpora-
tion of Ipswich, Mass., on the celebration of the two hundred and fiftieth anniversary of
their incorporation, and wish them continued prosperity.

Mayor of Ipswich, England."

This letter and cablegram were both read at the celebration, an answering cable
being sent as follows: —

"The town of Ipswich, celebrating its two hundred and fiftieth anniversary, sends thanks
to Mother Ipswich for her kindly greeting and best wishes for her continued prosperity,"

The most recent visitor from the English Ipswich was Rev, John A, Patten,
minister of the Tacket Street Congregational Church, of which one of the congre-
gation is Arthur Goddard, son of Sir Daniel, who has always taken such a great
interest in the New England Ipswich.

The English Ipswich was a great coaching center and the Bull Inn, Whitechapel,
London, was one of the taverns at which the Ipswich coaches put up for the night.
It was from there that Mr. Pickwick set out, who quotes Tony Weller as saying
just before the coach left the courtyard, "Take care 0' the archway, gen'l'men,"
This Inn for a long time belonged to the Nelson family, which was a noted race of inn
and coach proprietors, and at one time was managed by Mrs, Ann Nelson upon the

IPSWICH, MASSACHUSETTS 93

yard and in the cozy rooms of the ''Bull" of men with strange instrmnents encount-
ered along the road; "chaps with telescopes on three sticks and other chaps with
chains and things measuring the fields." The Eastern Counties Railway was
being projected to run from London to Colchester, Norwich and Yarmouth, and
the days of the coaches were to be no longer.

Ipswich is the front door of East Anglia, which means the eastern part of Eng-
land. It was here that Daniel Defoe, the author of "Robinson Crusoe," stayed
for a short time, mentioning that he found "very agreeable and improving com-
pany almost of every kind." Here is the Great White Horse Tavern where Pick-
wick accidentally encountered the elderly lady in the yellow curl-papers; his bed-
room No. 36 is still preserved, and although the Tavern has been much changed,
over the entrance still stands the "white painted stone statue of some rampageous
animal with flowing mane and tail, distantly resembling an insane cart-horse."
Dickens does not give a very favorable description of this Tavern, for he stated
that

"the Great White Horse is famous in the neighborhood in the same degree as a prize ox,
or county paper-chronicled turnip or unwieldy pig — for its enormous size."

This amusing account of the place, however, made it all the more popular. King
George II visited this noted Tavern in 1736, as also did Louis XVIII, King of
France, as he passed through the town. It may be interesting to Americans to
know that a model of this building was exhibited at the Chicago World's Fair.
The greatest treasure, however, possessed by Ipswich is "The Ancient House," in
the Buttermarket, in which King Charles II sought refuge when he was flee-
ing from the Parliamentary Army. Cardinal Wolsey was bom in Ipswich, and
connected with the town are the names of Clara Reeves; Gainsborough, the artist,
who lived there for some time; also David Garrick, the actor, who made his dfibut
there in 1740. The Duke of Buckingham, known as the "Great Duke,'' visited
the town, which is really most attractive, but his account of it was not very inspir-
ing, for he wrote that it "was a town without inhabitants, a river without water,
streets without names, and where the asses wore boots." It used to be called
Gippeswiche from the river Gipping and "Wick" meaning creek or haven for ships.
Captain John Smith mentioned our Agawam as early as 16 14, stating that
Prince Charles changed its name to Southampton and this name actually appears
on Smith's map. The first real history of our Ipswich, called on the seal of the
town "Birthplace of American Independence," began in 1620 when we learn that
some of the Pilgrim colony, before settling here "urged greatly the going to Angoan,
Anguum or Angoum, meaning 'Agawam' a place twenty leagues off to the north-
ward which they heard to be an excellent harbour for ships, better ground and bet-
ter fishing." Of course, in respect to the harbour they were very much mistaken.
Ten years later a messenger was sent to Agawam with a message saying "a war-

IPSWICH, ' MASSACHUSETTS 95

rant shall be presently sent to Agawam for those planted there, to come away/'
Three years later we learn that the Court of Assistance ordered that a plantation
be begun here as it was the best place in the land for tillage and cattle, lest an
enemy finding it should take possession from them. John Winthrop, Jr., was
instructed to undertake the settlement and it was suggested that twelve men
should go with him to assist him. In 1634, Rev. Nathaniel Ward, the son of John
Ward, of Ipswich, England, and his friends, came to the town and ordered the
name changed to Ipswich, after the town of the same name in England, in honour
of Ward and also '*in acknowledgment of the great honour and kindness done to
our people who took shipping there. ^' The Court believed that the town was large
enough to give up the Indian name. Another reason for the change in name was
the resemblance of the approach to our Ipswich to the territory near old Ipswich
on the river Orwell.

Nathaniel Ward bore one of the best known names in the early history of New
England, having been born in Haverhill, England, in 1570, where his father
had been a clergyman. It is interesting also to mention that he was granted six
hundred acres of land by the General Court in Haverhill in Massachusetts, then
called "Pen tucket,*' where his son was later a minister. He wrote several books,
the best known being called '^The Simple Cobler of Aggawam in America," which
was meant to be a lesson to the early colonists and to accomplish his purpose he
chose to write about the cobbler, describing him as

"willing to mend his Native Country, lamentably tattoed, both in the upper leather and
sole, with all the honest stitches he can take."

Nathaniel Rogers, who was also born in Haverhill, England, was another promi-
nent person in the early history of our Ipswich. The Rogers family held a place
of great distinction both in this town and in the Colony, John Rogers, the son of
Rev. Nathaniel Rogers, becoming President of Harvard College while the grandson
of Rev. Nathaniel, also named John, was a minister at Ipswich. Therefore, grand-
father and grandson between them held the pastorate of the Ipswich Church for
seventy years.

The Ipswich Historical Society has erected tablets in a small triangle in the
South Common, in memory of Nathaniel Ward, Nathaniel Rogers and Richard
Saltonstall, another early settler, and two of the inscriptions on the south side of
the tablet, which stands in front of the South Church, read as follows: —

ON TUE EAST SIDE OF THE COMMON

WAS THE HOUSE OF

REV. NATHANIEL WARD

1634 MINISTER OF IPSWICH 1 63 7

AUTHOR OF

**THE SIMPLE COBLER OF AGGAWAM "

COMPILER OF

THE BODY OF LIBERTIES

IPSWICH, MASSACHUSETTS

Phttotrafkid h Grorfi

TABLET ON THE SOUTH GREEN,

MASSACHUSETTS.
placed there in memory of Ezekiel Cheever, first master of
the Grammar School; also as a memorial of Rev. Nathaniel
Ward's first house nearby, and also to commemorate the
early houses of Richard Saltonstall ani Rev. Nathaniel
Rogers, both early settlers in this New England town.

The oldest house in the town,
now known as the Bumham
House, was built in 1640 by
Thomas Hart of England, soon
after his arrival in this country.
Several of the old rooms are stil!
in their original condition and
afford much interest to the sight-
seer who stops here.

One of the streets of Ipswich
which leads from the town to
Castle Hill, the place originally
granted to John Winthrop. Jr.,
now owned by Richard T. Crane
of Ciiicago, is called "Argilla
Road," after the estate in Eng-
land owned by the Symonds
family which settled here. The
present High Street was once
caUed Pudding Street, the
origin of its name being told
in a legendary poem written
by J. K. F.:—

"I can remember very well
A tale the old folks used to tell,
Of how a street, well known to fame.
Received its somewhat curious name.
The oven, then, so long ago,
Was built outside the house, and so
While the good wife was getting dinner,
There came along a tramping sinner,
Who, having not the fear of man,
Opened the oven door and ran.
The pudding had so much of heat.
He quickly dropped it in the street,

IPSWICH, MASSACHUSETTS 97

And fearing in that place to stay,
Kicked it before him on his way.
The pudding bag, so stout at first,
By violence at last was burst,
And ever since that wicked feat,
The thoroughfare is Pudding Street."

Another fact of interest to Americans and Britons alike is that the ancestors
of the late Joseph H. Choate lived in Ipswich, Massachusetts, a member of the
family still residing here near the town on Hog Island, often referred to as Choate
Island, which is also owned by Richard T. Crane of Chicago.

The town of Ipswich is responsible for the settlements of Chebacco, which when
incorporated was called Essex; and Hamilton, which was first called '^The Hamlet."

LANCASTER, MASSACHUSETTS

N 1913 the mother town of Lancaster sent the following message of good wishes
to her daughter on this side of the ocean: —

The Selectmen, Officials and Inhabitants of the Town of Lancaster, Mas-
sachusetts.

At a meeting of the Town Council of the Borough of Lancaster in the County of Lan-
caster England held on Wednesday the 24th day of September 1913 the following resolu-
tion was passed unanimously:^

'That the Mayor, Aldermen and Burgesses of the Borough of Lancaster in Council
assembled heartily reciprocated on behalf of the Burgesses and Inhabitants of this
County Town the greetings so well expressed in the resolution of the daughter Town
of Lancaster Massachusetts . . . and wish that all prosperity may in the future
attend the Selectmen, OflScials and Inhabitants of that Town.'

The Common seal of the Corporation of
Lancaster England was hereunto affixed
in the presence of

C. F. Seward, Mayor.**

Some authorities claim that Edward Breck was the earliest settler in this
Bay State town, but such is not the case, for this honour belongs to John Pres-
cott, who was not only the earliest settler here but was also the founder of
the town. Others interested in its early success were Thomas King, Harmon
Garrett of Charlestown, Thomas Skidmore of Cambridge and Stephen Daye,
who, it will be remembered, was the first printer in Cambridge. Prescott, how-
ever, was the only one to take up his residence here. They expressed the wish
that the town should be called ''Prescott" in honour of John Prescott and later
suggested it might be named "West Town.'' The people of Lancaster have
remembered the founder of their town by a slate tablet near his grave in Old
Burying Field which records in the words of the late Senator George F. Hoar: —

LANCASTER, MASSACHUSETTS

nuetrafM/nm t friM Onvd ky ilUix Far'.

SOUTH VffiW OF THE GATEWAY TOWER OF LANCASTER CASTLE, LAN'CASTER,

ENGLAND

Tbe castle U the cbief object of interest in Lancaster, being now used as a jail.

Here

with his children about him lies

John Prescolt

founder of Lancaster and first settler

of Worcester County

bom at Standish, Lancashire, England

Died at Lancaster, Massachusetts, December, 1681.

Inspired by the love of liberty and the fear of God

this stout-hearted pioneer

forsaking the pleasant vales of England

took up his abode in the unbroken forest

and encountered ■v.-WA beast and savage

to secure freedom

for himself and his posterity.

His faith and virtues

have been inherited by many descendants

who in every generation have well served the state

in war, in literature, at the bar, in the pulpit, in pubUc life,

and in Christian homes.

LANCASTER, MASSACHUSETTS

This tablet was set in place in
time for the two hundred and
fiftieth anniversary of Lancaster's
incorporation, in 1903. In this
cemetery are also the graves of
Jonathan Fairbanks, formerly of
Dedham, and his wife, who was
Lydia Prescott, daughter of this
first settler, their marriage being
the first recorded within the limits
of Lancaster. One year after
the incorporation of the town
came Rev. Joseph Rowlandson,
then John Whiting, and later
on, in 1 793 , Rev, Nathaniel
Thayer, Edward Hamilton
Sears and George M, Bartol,
whose descendants have been
prominent citizens of Massa-
chusetts.

There is also a Lancaster in
New Hampshire,

Tradition says that the Eng-
lish Lancaster was once a Roman
station and later was used as a
fort by the Saxons. On a hill
in the town stands Lancaster
Church, and near its site Agri-
cola more than two thousand
years ago planned his second
year's campaign in Britain and from there also he directed the march of his Roman
legions. A thousand years later came Roger of Poictou, a Norman Baron, who
recognized the military importance of the town and erected there a great ke^.
In later years the town for two centuries was the center of Norman chivalry; it
was there, too, that John of Gaunt held his Court, which in pomp rivaled that of
the King himself; it was from there also that many edicts of great importance were
issued, and through its castle walls rode many a gallant herald carrying tidings of
peace or war. In fact few towns can claim a greater coimection with royalty
than Lancaster.

The Scots attacked the fortress of Lancaster innumerable times, and in 13 14,
after the defeat of Edward II at Bannockbum, they burned the town and succeeded

in memory of John Prescott of Lancashire, England, founder
of the New England Lancaster, and first settler of Worcester

County.

roo LANCASTER, MASSACHUSETTS

in partial])- destroying the Castie. During the Ware ol tbe Roees, it was aher-
oately occupied by boih parties and there not infrequently monarchs toot refuge.
At one i>criod Court was held there, parts of the Castle being used as a prison. It
wjitf in 1715 that the prisoners of the Castle, climbing to the parapets, watched and
chrtTt'ii the Sctittish Army as it captured the town. After a ceremony, during
which the Stuart Pretender was proclaimed King, the soldiers dispersed to sedt
■.[u-irtors, and a council was held that night to decide whether the prisoners at the
(,'iistlc should be released. It was decided to set free those on the Crown side.
Hii the following day the officers, after attending service at the Lancaster Church.
'\UcsMti and trimud themselves up in their best cloathes for to drink a di'^b of tea
with thi- Ludys of this town." We are told that *'the Ladys also here appeared
ilk thi-ii bc.ol rising, anri had their tea tables richly furnished for to entertain their
iww Miitins." ll is further related that the swains left the town ver>' reluctantl>-.
m thi'v did not wish lo part with their new loves. The last hostile army to enter
I iuu<t<il(-r wus that of Bonnie Prince Charlie, known as the Young Pretender, who
lUiiuhtHi lliniiigh the town on November 24, 1745.

LINCOLN, MASSACHUSETTS

HISTOKV tells us that the part of England between the Wash and the
rlv(;r Ilumber, whence came the pioneers of our Lincoln, was wrested
from the Britons and occupied by the tribe of Angs, or Angles, from
wlildi tliP won] "England" is derived. "Lindum Coloniae" {or "Colonia") was
till' iiiiitiD (jiven to Lincoln by the Romans, who while possessing it surrounded the
hlitit' tiy dtrong walls and made it one of the chief seats of Roman power in that
M^ lii'ii of l\w island. During the Saxon period it was the capital of Merda and in
■fWi Will BMl'ji;<-'ted to assault by the Danes. Lincoln is one of the most important
liljt^a III l'ji|{land, so important, in fact, that at one time it rivaled London, as
^U^.M. lilicB bhow us: -

"Lincoln was, London is, and York shaU be,
'I"hc greatest city of the three."

ll t4 aiUiuttii on a hill, overlooking the lowlands of England's eastern coast, and
III)- I'Jul' l"W*-r!> '>f the cathedral are most impressive. The river Witham flows by
I III. I H'/ nil ila way to Boston and at one time was noted for its fish, if we believe
III). tiMnwiiiii lini's written about the river: —

" Wylham eel and Ancum pike:
In all the world there is no syke" (such).

WIf'-fi I'l'illif'^ flrookH viKitcd Lincoln, England, he said, "Be proud of your City,
HUii ■'I'"* y"" I""'''*- "f her by seeking to become worthy of her."

LINCOLN, MASSACHUSETTS

UNCOLN, ENGLAND, FROM THE RIVER WITHAM

In 1896 a band of Pilgrims from the United States, headed by the Rev. Dr.
Dunning of our Boston, visited Lincohi, England (which claims John Robinsoa
as its own), and other towns associated with the Pilgrim Church, being particularly
impressed by the cathedral, which is the pride of Lincoln and which Ruskin claimed
was the most precious piece of architecture in the British Isles. Work on this
edifice was begun in 1075 by Bishop Remigius but was not completed until the
fourteenth century. The burial at Lincoln of St. Hugh of Avalon, who was made
bishop in 1 186, was attended by two kings and many other notables of that day.
It may be interesting to remind Americans that Tennyson, the poet, was bom
near Lincoln and that a statue has been erected to his memory in the dose of the
cathedral. It is also noteworthy that there is a Bunker Hill about a mile from the city.

Our Lincoln was not set apart as a town until 1754, when the Honourable
Chambers Russell, whose ancestors had come from Lincolnslure, England, persuaded
the legislature to call it Lincoln after the English city. Rev. William Lawrence,
the first minister, John Hoar, Edward Flint, Stephen Weston and Benjamin Brown
were very helpful to the Colony in the early days. Chambers Russell was honoured
by being allowed to choose the first pew in the church.

Edward Flint came over to Concord in 1636 with his family, and his will was
the first one recorded in Middlesex County records, Cambridge. The family place
on the Lexington road, we believe, has never ^ne out of the possession of a member

LONDONDERRY, NEW HAMPSHIRE

From a ftinl iOti iSit

AN IRISH JAUNTING CAR

deny myself the pleasure. My occupations at home are so pressing and numerous that I
cannot leave. The citizens of the parent Londonderry, in Ireland, will be greatly interested
in your proceedings, and we trust everything will go on prosperously and well. I will be
very glad to have, either by letter or newspaper, an account of the ceremonies.

Very sincerely yours,

WiLUAU McClore."

Invitations were also sent to the Mayor and Aldermen of Londonderry, Ireland.

In April, 1719, sixteen Scotch-Irish families came over from the north of Ire-
land and they were followed within a short time by many others, their reason for
migrating to this country being to secure more religious liberty. It can, therefore,
be said that they played the same part in Ireland that the Puritans did in Eng-
land in relation to the new country. The newcomers spent their first winter in the
harbour near Portland, Maine, where they suffered great hardship, as their vessel
was frozen in the ice and it was difficult to procure supplies. When spring came,
however, they wandered to the territory called by them "Londonderry" from the
town of the same name in Ireland, so well known to them. The first thing they
did was to purchase from John Wheelwright the title to these lands that had been
purchased by his family from the Indians a long time before ; it was in this way that
they became possessors of this territory which was at that time called "Nutfield,"

114 LYNN, MASSACHUSETTS

asked him if he remembered the occurrence. "Truly do I," was the prompt reply,
"and the Lord forgive me but I wish I'd let thee drown."

Lynn's church was founded by Herbert de Losinga, the first Norman bishop
of East Anglia, and is famous for two fine sepulchral brasses, one of which shows
a wonderful feast, among the delicacies on the table being a peacock "that noble ■
bird, the food of lovers and the meat of Lords." An attendant is shown bringing
in the ]jeacock, and one of the guests is depicted in the act of straddling the table ■
in his desire to obtain possession of it, while his neighbors remonstrate with him j
on his bad manners. The famous navigator George Vancouver, for whom Van- I
cou\'er Island was named, was born in the English Lynn.

Some one who visited the town remarked, "There's a bit o' life sometimes i
there," explaining further that he liked it very much as compared to the quiet coun-
trj-, which he said was like "living In a teapot and 'peekin' at the world throu^
the spout."

Among the important people of our Lynn should be mentioned Joseph Rednap,
the cooper, who established his business here in 1654; Francis Ingalls, who estab-
lished in the town the first tannery; Philip Kertland, a shoemaker, John Adam
Dagyr, who was called the "celebrated shoemaker of Essex," and who added a new
chapter to the shoe industry by introducing the more skillful French method of
making shoes, making footwear, it is said, for the brides of Boston. In these early
days shoemaking was carried on in the homes. To the town also came from London
William Rose, who understood the art of manufacturing morocco and who, it is
claimed, was the first to set up this business in the town.

The dies for the Pine Tree shillings were made at the Saugus Iron Works by
Esther Jenkes, the wife of the Superintendent. These works were established
in 1642 near the present site of Pranker's Mills and they laid the foundation for the
iron industry of the United States. The first Superintendent was Joseph Jenkes,
who on May 14, 1646, received, for a water wheel which he designed, the first patent
granted on the continent of North America. Jenkes was also the inventor of the
American scythe. In the Public Library of Lynn is exhibited an iron kettle which
is supposed to represent the first iron casting made in the New World.

In the early days the preachers frequently timed their sermons with an hour
glass and on one occasion a minister is said to have remarked, " I know you are good
fellows; stay and take another glass."

io6 LONDONDERRY, NEW HAMPSHIRE

of honour in the annals of history. When the plucky garrison had almost reached
its last extremity on the 30th of July, some ships broke through the obstruction
across the harbour and brought relief to the suffering town. King William, as a
recognition of the importance of the work of the inhabitants of "Old Londonderry"
in this memorable siege, caused an act to be passed whereby those who partici-
pated in the defense of the city, bearing arms, were thereafter to be exempt from
taxation throughout the British dominions. Some of the settlers of London-
derry, New Hampshire, were entitled to such exemption and availed themselves
of their right until the Revolution. On the Royal bastion from which the men of
Derry defied the enemy stands a tall column bearing a statue of Walker, in com-
memoration of the siege. The anniversary of the rehef is still celebrated.

The ancient rampart, with its gates and bastions, which surrounds a section of J
Londonderry, and a few ancient houses with high, pyramidal gables, give the town
an atmosphere of antiquity in spite of its numerous modern features. The indus-
tries carried on there include the manufacture of linen, shipbuilding, iron foun-
dries and fisheries. It is interesting to recall that the Cathedral, completed in
'633. W3S built by money subscribed from London. The town was a great port of
emigration to the United States in the days before the transatlantic steamers came
into operaUon, the emigrants sailing in "clippers" owned by Derry merchants.

LYNN, MASSACHUSETTS

IT is interesting to notice that the first visitor to England, according to some
writers, from the territory that is now called Lyim, was probably Monto-
wam[>ate, the Indian chieftain, who lived here peacefully for some time with
the new settlers, but, having been defrauded of twenty beaver skins by a trader
in England, he journeyed to London in 1631, armed with a letter from Governor
Winthrop to Emmanuel Downing of London. The redskin was received with
much respect and was given the money for his furs, but not liking the English bill
of fare, it is said that he returned to his native hunting ground to enjoy his dams
and succotash. The first settlement in the town, which was called "Saugus" or
"Saugust," was made nine years after the landing of the Pilgrims, and the first
five men to whom is given the honour of m akin g the settlement are Edmund and
Francis Ingalls, William Dixey and John and William Wood. These pioneers were
with Captain John Endicott's colony, which came to Salem in 1628 and, as it has
been expressed, "strayed over" to Lyim the following year. They set out, we are
told, from Salem with leave to go "where we would" and having discovered "a
faire playne" lying between Salem and Charlestown, called Saugus, they took
"peaceable possession." The organized settlement did not take place, however,
until two years later. Edmund Ingalls came from Lincolnshire, England, in 1629,
and was drowned in 1648, when he and his horse fell through the old Saugus Bridge.

LYNN, MASSACHUSETTS

Some of the names connected with
the early history of Lynn were
Breed, Newhall, Mansfield, Burrill,
Hood, Alley, Lewis, Fuller, Baker,
Dexter and Bassett. In 1636, Rev.
Samuel Whiting, who has been
called the "Father of Lynn" and
the "Angel of Lynn," was installed
minister of the little church at
Saugus. He was bom in Boston,
England, and was the son of Sir
John Whiting, who was twice
Mayor of that town. Samuel's
brother, John, was Mayor of
Boston, England, in 1626, 1627,
1644 and 1645, that being the
only instance of any man having
been Mayor four times previous
to the Municipal Act of 1S35.
Another brother, James, also was
Mayor of Boston, in 1640. Rev.
Mr. Whiting was Rector of St.
Margaret's Church, Lynn Regis,
and also of Skirbeck Church,
Boston, England, but on account
of his non-conformist tendencies
he decided to come to this country,
bringing with him his second wife,
who was a daughter of Oliver St.
John, Chief Justice of England at
one time, and a cousin of Oliver
Cromwell. In honour of tWs
preacher the name of the town
during the next year was changed
from Saugus to Lynn, by order of
the General Court, being recorded
in these words, "Saugust is called
Lin." Whiting on the voyage over
said, "I would much rather under-
go ax weeks' imprisonment for
a good cause, than six weeks of

Tram a sAMDirjpA Kiiuliuii fin. WSKam Jfplritt lawmct,

Mn AOm. En., And If^lur J). »-l,ilini, £j(.

SHAFT OVER THE GRAVE OF REV. SAMUEL
WHITING, THE FIRST MINISTER OF LYNN,
MASSACHUSETTS, IN WEST LYNN CEMETERY,

LYNN, MASSACHUSElTS
Rev. Samuel Whiting had been rector of St. Margaret's
Church, Lynn Regis, England, a picture of which is shown
in another iUustiatioii.

LVN^N, MASS.\CHUSETTS

A reply to this letter, dated

June 28. 1880, read as follows:—

"Rrv. and Dear Brother:

My thanks are due to >'ou for
kindh- introducing to me so pleasant
and friendly a man as the Honourable
K. G. Usher, and also for the kind
and brotherly greeting contained in
jour letter. . . . Mr. Usher and I
have selected a stone for your inter-
esting purpose, from such fragments
as were available in our grand old
church. My only r^;ret is that all the
pieces were so smaL I hope, howev-er,
that our inability to find a piece of
sione better adapted for your wishes
«-ill not materially lessen the satisfac-
tion of yourself and your Church
people on the receipt of a relic which
it has been a real pleasure to me
to send.

John Durst, Reclor of Xorlh Lynn
arid Vicar of King's Lynn, England"

The stone, quarried during the
eleventh centurj-, was carefully
selected by the English Rector
and Mr. Usher from this building,
which is the old parish church,
and sent to this country where
it now occupies a place of honour
in St. Stephen's Memorial Church
in our Lynn, and makes a \ery
tangible link between the new

and the old Lynn. It forms a part of a window-jamb and bears the following

inscription on one side: —

ST. Margaret's church, lynn, England

1

STONE SENT BY ST. MARGARET'S CHURCH,
KING'S LYNN,
o( which Rev. Samuel Whitmg, Lynn's first minister, was
rector before coming to New England. This relic is now
in St. Stephen's Church, Lynn, Massachusetts, ha\ing
been procured from the English Church in 1880 by Hon.
Roland G. Usher, and Rev. Louis De Cormis, once a
T ot this church in out Lynn.

The other side was left untouched as it had been for years. An inscription is also cut
on a stone panel just below the shelf on which the stone is placed, as shown in the
illustration on this page. At the laying of the corner-stone, Mr. Usher said in part: —
"It comes as the expression of the interest and good will of the p)eople of St. Mar-
garet's — as a link to connect our Lynn with old King's Lynn in England. ... we pray

LYNN, MASSACmJSETTS iii

that the record for the ages to come of St. Stephen's Memorial Church, may be for use-
fuhiess and influence equal to that of St. Margaret's."

A formal resolution of thanks was adopted and sent across the water. A Centen-
nial Memorial of Ljom, Massachusetts, was also sent over about this time, by
Mr. Usher, to the English Lynn.

The good will between the two places had been manifested also during the
celebration of the two himdred and fiftieth anniversary of Lynn, Massachusetts,
held in June, 1879, at which time an invitation was sent by Mayor George D.
Sanderson to Mayor Thomas A. Seppings of Lynn Regis to be present. Although
unable to accept, the English Mayor replied most cordially, sending his congrat-
ulations and best wishes to our city. Another letter was received from Rev.
Edward J. Alvis, Vicar of East Winch and a native of old Lynn, who also sent an
interesting engraving of his town. Another resident of the English town, John
Coulton, sent a poem written by himself and dedicated to our Lynn, which was
read at the anniversary, the last stanza of which was: —

"For each a happy future is in store.
If wisdom's counsels shall unite the nations
Firmer in friendship for our feuds of yore —
Alone, unrivall'd in our lofty stations
Old England new in brighter destinies.
New England old in hallow'd memories."

Still another letter was received from Robert Brooks in which he said in part: —

''Many of us when youths at school, ^tanning the map of the 'Young Giant' your
ocmntiy, mtve had our c^es drawn to 'Norfolk' and to 'L3mn' in a far distanit ]and,^-the
names of our county and loved old town— we have wondered how it was, and at times n^ith
anxiety have wished to learn something of your history. At last kindly words 'have
Qome across the sea.' You tell a tak of affection for one you were pleased to honour, —
'A beteved dergyman' who once daimed our home as his; in honouring him you honoured
us. We now, in no formal words, Thank you"

Another occasion of interest was the celebration by the Lyim Historical Society,
called ''Eing's Lynn Night," which was observed a few years ago with appropriate
exercises, including lectures on historical subjects pertaining to the old L3mn, stere-
cpticon views of the places of interest and a description of the town by some of the
citizens of new Lynn who had visited there. In the records of this society mention
is made of a Queen Victoria Medal which was presented to the organization in
1899 through Mayor Walter S. Ramsdell, having been sent from old Lynn accom*
panied by a letter from the Mayor. At this time it was also mentioned that St.
Stephen's Church had been sent some small organ pipes from St. Margaret's Church,
but as no inscrq>tions were placed upon them they cannot be identified.

The fijTst offering of our Ljmn was Reading, which became a sq>arate townsh^
in 1644 &^ which is dealt with later on in this volume. Nahant was granted in
1622 by the Council in England to Captain Robert Gorges, who in turn gave part

LYNN, MASSACHUSETTS 113

of the island and Saugus to John Oldham. Still later Nahant was purchased for
the price of a suit of clothes by Thomas Dexter, who was then a fanner and who
was one of the *'ten men of Saugust'' to found Sandwich in 1639. Even to this
day the seal of Nahant depicts Dexter offering his suit of clothes to the Indian
in exchange for the lands. In these early days and for many years there was a
fence across Lynn Neck to keep in the cows and sheep that were pastured in Na-
hant by the people of Lynn. It may be interesting also to record that in 1803 there
were only five houses in Nahant, the Johnson family owning one of these. It is
said that the wolf-pits of 1630 in the Lynn Woods are the oldest unchanged works
of man in the Colony.

The English town now called Lynn, on the river Ouse, was once named
Bishop's Lynn, but was later changed to Lynn Regis, or King's Lynn, during the
reign of Henry VIII. It is situated in the county of Norfolk and is especially
famous for its fine churches, its Custom House and its Guildhall; it also has an
excellent public Ubrary, the gift of Andrew Carnegie. Through the fourteenth
century the town was given over almost entirely to religious orders, and many
monasteries were built there, chiefly by the Franciscans, Augustinians and Domini-
cans, the best known of all these scholarly monks being John Capgrave, who wrote
much poetry. Daniel Defoe visited the town in 1722 and described it as a "rich
and populous port- town."

Lynn rose rapidly from a marsh town to a seaport, still being an important port,
as expressed in the following lines: —

** Rising was a sea-port town
When Lynn was but a marsh;
Now Lynn it is a sea-port
And Rising fares the worse."

The derivation of the name is from the Celtic "lyn," meaning a "lake," which
referred to the sea which covered a large part of the immediate district called
Marshland, now reclaimed. One of the chief events in the history of the borough
was the Siege of Lynn, which occurred in the time of the conflict between Charles I
and the Parliamentary forces. The town, which sided with the Royalist cause,
was fortified and awaited the attack by the Earl of Manchester. While divine
worship was being held one day a cannon ball was sent through the church,
scattering the congregation. This did not daunt them, however, for they
said, "As soon might the Earl of Manchester raise his good father from the
dead as force his entrance into Lynn." No help, however, came to the men
who held the town and they were finally forced to surrender to the Parlia-
mentary troops.

It is told that Oliver Cromwell, when a child, fell into the Ouse and was pulled out
by a Royalist parson who was fishing nearby. Years later when Oliver the Protector
revisited the scenes of his youth with his triumphant army, he met his rescuer and

4

MANCHESTER, NEW HAMPSHIRE

MANCHESTER, ENGLAND

ufacturing center but at the time that Manchester received its name there was Ettle
to indicate that Judge Blodget's prophecy would ever in any measure be fulfilled.
In an address delivered at the centennial celebration of the naming of Manchester
it was said that in the year 1810 there seemed to be but two facts that made the
place in any way notable; one was the existence of the Amoskeag Falls with their
fisheries and possibilities while the other was that the town was the home of Major
General John Stark, the Revolutionary hero, who was then passing a peaceful old
^e on his estate near the Falls.

In 1814 the navigation of the Merrimack was fully opened and the river became
a considerable water highway whose traffic continued for some years after the
opening of the Concord railroad in 1842. The manufacture of cloth near the
Amoskeag Falls was begun before Manchester was so named and, in the year of
its naming, a company was formed known as the Amoskeag Cotton and Wool
Factory. This company, however, had little capital or machinery and its output
was small. In the year 183 1 the present Amoskeag Manufacturing Company was
chartered with a capital of a million dollars, a large sum for that time, and Samuel
Blodget's dreams of the future began in some degree to be realized. The new
company was organized "for the purpose of taking over the old company, devel-
oping water power, acquiring and selling land, selling sites and power to other man-
ufacturing concerns, building and operating mills of its own and so bringing about
the growth of a fiourishing manufacturing town worthy the name it had been

"S

MALDEN, MASSACHUSETTS

WE believe we can do no better than reproduce a letter written by Hon.
Charles L. Dean, Mayor of Maiden, Massachusetts, to His Worship
Edward A. Fitch, Mayor of Maldon, Essex, England, in reply to one
received from Mr. Fitch on the occasion of the two hundred and fiftieth anniversary
of the incorporation of our Maiden. With this letter from the English official
came a short account of his old borough, with a request for information in regard
to our Maiden. This letter runs as follows: —

"Malden, Mass. May 13, 1899.
Dear Sir; —

Your valued communication of April 22nd duly received, also a copy of your book
entitled Maldon and the Blackwater. I appreciate your kindness and am grateful for
the trouble you have taken. I regret that you will not be able to be with us on our birth-
day, but you may be assured that the people of Maiden in New England will not forget
the old mother on the Blackwater at that time.

Our historian has given me the following items of information in regard to the old
settlers and I hope that you may be able to trace some of them as coming directly from
your borough.

A leader in the settlement of our town was Joseph Hills, who was married at Burstead
Magna, Billericay, in 1624. He was of your parish of All Saints in 1631, and the births
of his children are recorded there. In 1638 he came to New England with others. His
son-in-law, John Wayte, who was a leading man here, was from Wethersfield, Essex.
Another of our early settlers, Richard Pratt, is said to have been a son of John Pratt of
your borough, where he was baptized in 1615. The authority for this statement is not
known. Salmon, History of Essex, 424, says that John Pratt, an alderman of Maldon,
was buried in All Saints in 1619. Thomas Ruck, an early landholder but not a settler,
is said to have come from Maldon.

It may interest you to know that out of the Httle settlement of 1649, which was named
Maldon (now changed to Maiden) have grown three cities with an aggregate population
of about seventy thousand people.

Again expressing our regret that you will not be able to be present at our anniversary
exercises, I am, with kind regards,

Very truly yours,

Charles L. Dean, Mayor.''

The territory now included in Maiden, Everett and Melrose originally belonged to
Charlestown and in 1634 it was known as "Mystic Side." The settlement of
Maiden was actually made in 1640, but the town was not incorporated until 1649,
when the following record appears: **In answer to the peticon of seull inhabitants
of Misticke side their request is graunted, viz, to be a distinct towne of themselves
& the name thereof to be Maulden." The name has been spelled Maldon, Mauldon,
Maulden and Maiden. The town became a dty in 1882. The first minister of
the settlement was Marmaduke Matthews, who came from South Wales.

At the two hundred and fiftieth anniversary of the incorporation of the town,
St. Paul's Church exhibited a number of seals of England, and a sermon was at

MANCHESTER, NEW HAMPSHIRE 123

we are able to trace to New England. Some of the Saltonstall family are well
known in the English Manchester, several having died at Holme Hall.

Manchester, Massachusetts, was named perhaps for Manchester, England, but
more probably for the Earl of Manchester who had an official connection with the
colonies. We are sure, however, that those who settled in the Massachusetts town
came from the eastern counties of England.

There are also places by the name of Manchester in Connecticut, Maine and
Vermont.

MEDFORD, MASSACHUSETTS

MEDFORD, one of the earliest permanent settlements of the Massachusetts
Bay Colony, unlike all others, was the proprietary of the ^'Governour'*
of the colonizing company and to Matthew Cradock the large city of
today owes its name. Those early explorers, Captain John Smith and Bartholo-
mew Gosnold, may have seen or looked from its hills, but the first recorded visit
of white men was by an exploring party from Plymouth in September of the year
1621, consisting of '^Standish the stalwart, with eight of his valorous army, led by
their Indian guide . . . '' as expressed by Longfellow. They encountered some
redskins and with inducements of trade and promises to come again they returned
to Plymouth. It was, however, left to others to become Medford's first settlers,
nearly seven years later, the company comprising fishermen, farmers and mechan-
ics in the employ of Matthew Cradock, a wealthy merchant, who, besides his asso-
ciated interests in the "London Company of Massachusetts Bay,*' ventured to a
certain extent on his own account. These Englishmen coming to Salem in the
migration of 1628, or earlier, soon foimd their way to the Mistick Valley and made
a permanent settlement *'four miles along the river.*' Title to this territory was
later confirmed to Cradock by the General Court, thereby making it his proprie-
tary. It was then known by the various names of "Mr. Cradock's Farm,"
"Mistick" and "Medford." It was also styled a "plantation," but was never
called a town imtil a half-century had passed. Cradock has been called "the
Father of our Medford," although curiously enough he never came overseas, his
business here being conducted by agents. He was the first president of the trading
company chartered by King Charles I, his official title being "Govemour." He
suggested the transfer of the Colony's government to these shores but resigned his
important office to Winthrop, who brought the charter with him, and coincident
with this charter are our present titles of Governor and General Court. Cradock
had a country seat at a little hamlet in StaflFordshire, England, called Medford, the
English name having been spelled at diflferent times Medford, Metford, Mepford,
MeflFord and, at the present time, Meaford. It is considered by careful historians
that he gave the name of his English possession to this new venture in the Bay

MEDFORD, MASSACHUSETTS 125

which the Indians called *'Missi-tuk," meaning "the great tidal river;'* Mystic it
is still called, but there is nothing mystical or mysterious about it. This river,
often called Medford River, was a highway of trade, and on its banks, between
1802 and 1873, were built five hundred and sixty-seven vessels, — all in Medford, —
a remarkable record. The names of some of the people who have contributed to
make this industry so famous are Magoun, Turner, Lapham, Hastings, Sprague,
James, Fuller, Rogers, Stetson, Waterman, Ewell, Curtis, Foster and Taylor. One
of the first ships launched in this country was the well-known "Blessing of the
Bay" which was built in 1631 at "Ten Hills Farm,'' the property of Governor
Winthrop, part of which was within the present limits of Medford. Of " Medford,"
the first recorded mention was in September, 1630, when a tax of three pounds was
levied for military instruction.

Fifteen other Medfords in as many States, all more or less traceable to ours,
bear the name of that little hamlet on the river Trent in Staffordshire, in old Eng-
land, the country home of Governor Matthew Cradock.

NEWBURY, MASSACHUSETTS

"They came, so simply the quaint records tell,
'From England's stately homes' they loved full well,

* For conscience and religion's sake,' to dwell

* Amid this wilderness,' by God's good grace,
To rear in Quascacunquen, Newbury's race.
This goodly land, sea-fronting levels wide,
Their earnest gaze espied,

Ripe for the planting of a continent."

THE above is an extract from an ode written by Mrs. Louisa P. Hopkins on
the occasion of the two hundred and fiftieth anniversary of the founding of
Newbury, Massachusetts. It is not strictly correct to state that these
Newbury settlers came to this country for "religion's sake," for they came really
for farming and stock-raising. Many of them did not separate from the Church
of England before sailing and some of their grandchildren even returned to this
form of worship and built Queen Anne's Chapel in 171 1, stating that they were
of "the pure Episcopal Church of England." At this same anniversary celebra-
tion Dr. Samuel C. Bartlett in his address called attention to the words of Judge
Samuel Sewall, who was bom a few years after the settlement of our Newbury.
These words were later changed into verse by John Greenleaf Whittier and were
published in the history of the town issued by the Towle Manufacturing Com-
pany. We quote the first part : —

** As long as Plum Island, to guard the coast
As God appointed, shall keep its post;
As long as the salmon shall haunt the deep
Of Merrimac River, or sturgeon leap;

MANCHESTER, NEW HAMPSHIRE

PiaKirapluJ hy Fiii T. It

(rom a juclui

F. Maiil WifukiU

CITY HALL, MANCHESTER, ENGLAND,

the City Hall of Manchester, England, which together with a photograph of the
City Hall of Manchester, New Hampshire, may now be seen in the office of the
Manchester Water Works Department.

The early history of this important New England city is of great interest: —
On June 13, 1810, John Langdon, Governor of New Hampshire, affixed his seal
to a bill by which the name of the town of Derryfield was changed to Manchester,
the exact phraseology of the essential part of the bill being as foUows: —
"Be it Enacted by the Senate and House of Representatives in General Coukt
convened:
That said town of Derryfield shall forever hereafter be called and known by the name
of Manchester, any law, usage or custom to the contrary notwithstanding."

The reason for this form of expression may perhaps be fomid in the fact that the
place now deagnated as Manchester had already borne several different names.
There is a tradition that the territory was originally called by the Indians Kas-
kaashadi, "the place of broken water," referring to the falls of Amoskeag. If this
was the case this name must have given way to Namaoskeag, meaning "a great
place for fish." The white settlers in this locality called it Nutfield, or the Chestnut

MANCHESTER, NEW HAMPSHIRE

CITY HALL, MANCHESTER, ENGLAND,

the City Hall of Manchester, England, which together with a photograph of the
City Hall of Manchester, New Hampshire, may now be seen in the office of the
Manchester Water Works Department.

The early history of this important New England dty is of great interest:^
On June 13, 1810, John Langdon, Governor of New Hampshire, affixed his seal
to a bill by which the name of the town of Derryiield was changed to Manchester,
the exact phraseology of the essential part of the bill being as follows: —
"Be it Enacted by the Senate and House of Representatives in General Court
convened:
That said town of Derryfield shall forever hereafter be called and known by the name
of Manchester, any law, usage or custom to the contrary notwithstanding."

The reason for this form of expression may perhaps be found in the fact that the
place now designated as Manchester had already bome several different names.
There is a tradition that the territory was originally called by the Indians Kas-
kaashadi, "the place of broken water," referring to the falls of Amoskeag. If this
was the case this name must have given way to Namaoskeag, meaning "a great
place for fish." The white settlers in this locality called it Nutfield, or the Chestnut

MANCHESTER, NEW HAMPSHIRE

MANCHESTER, ENGLAND

ufacturing center but at the tune that Manchester received its name there was little
to indicate that Judge Blodget's prophecy would ever in any measure be fulfilled.
In an address delivered at the centennial celebration of the naming of Manchester
it was said that in the year 1810 there seemed to be but two facts that made the
place in any way notable; one was the existence of the Amoskeag Falls with their
fisheries and possibilities while the other was that the town was the home of Major
General John Stark, the Revolutionary hero, who was then passing a peaceful old
age on his estate near the Falls.

In 1814 the navigation of the Merrimack was fully opened and the river became
a considerable water highway whose traffic continued for some years after the
opening of the Concord railroad in 1842. The manufacture of cloth near the
Amoskeag Fails was begun before Manchester was so named and, in the year of
its naming, a company was formed known as the Amoskeag Cotton and Wool
Factory. This company, however, had little capital or machinery and its output
was small. In the year 183 1 the present Amoskeag Manufacturing Company was
chartered with a capital of a milUon dollars, a large sum for that time, and Samuel
Blodget's dreams of the future began in some degree to be realized. The new
company was organized " for the purpose of taking over the old company, devel-
oping water power, acquiring and seUing land, selling sites and power to other man-
ufacturing concerns, building and operating mills of its own and so bringing about
the growth of a fiourishing manufacturing town worthy the name it had been

ltd Rn. CIrin Tillty Morn

It is placed not far from the Ship Monument.

Rev. Thomas Parker and James Noyes were also with these pioneers and were
chosen pastor and "teacher," respectively, of their church. Farther up the river,
on Oldtown lower green, has been placed another monument, surmounted by a
model of a ship of the old days, erected in honour of these early settlers, the inscrip-
tion being as follows: —

To the men and women

who settled in Newbury

from 163s to 1650 and

founded its municipal

social and religious life,

this monument is dedicated
1905

Rev. Benjamin Woodbridge, a settler in the town, has the honour of having ranked
first in the first class graduated from Harvard College.

Curiously enough, Newbury in Massachusetts was formerly called Old Newbury,
although before this it was named Oldtown and still before that Wescussacco; its
present name of Newbury was given in the year 1635. In this year the General
Court of the Colony of Massachusetts Bay appointed a board of commissioners to
set out the bounds between Ipswich and Quascacunquen and at the same time
ordered that the new plantation should be called Newbury from the old town in

NEWBURY, MASSACHUSETTS

Berkshire, England, where Rev. ^

Mr. Parker had preached before
coining to this country. The list
of names identified with the early
history of Newbary is a long
one and includes Daniel Pierce,
Thomas and James Noyes, Henry
Sewall, Caleb Moody, Anthony
Morse, Captain Stephen Green-
leaf, Richard Dummer, Colonel
Kent and Edward Rawson; while
those names later identified with
the town were Adams, Chase,
Poore, Hale, Lunt, Somerby,
Lowell, Little, Sawyer, Bartlctt,
Brown, Jaques, Knight, Emery
and Titcomb. Newburyport was
not incorporated until 1764, this
step being taken chiefly on ac-
count of the need for public school
accommodations in that part of
the township. The best-known
names in this flourishing city are
Lowell, Dalton, Tracy, Jackson,
Todd, Cushing, Sawyer, Coffin,
Jones, Wheelwright, Huse, Gary,
Greenleaf, Hooper and Moseley;
while those who were best known
in West Newbury soon after its
settlement were Moses and Joshua
Brown, Josiah Bartlett, Benjamin
Perley Poore, also the Ordway,
Chase, Johnson, Dole, Greenleaf,
Little, Smith, Bailey, Emery,
Rogers, Felton and Morse fami-
lies. Timothy Dexter, who origi-
nated the well-known T. D. pipe,
was one of the curious characters of Newburyport in recent times. At the time
that he wrote his book "A Pickle for the Knowing Ones," there were so many
discussions in regard to proper punctuation that he left out all marks of punctu-
ation in the body of his book but at the end printed several pages of periods,

in honour of the early settlers. Their leader was Rev.
Thomas Parker, who had previously preached in Newbury,
England, and it was out of respect to him that this name
was given to the Massachusetts town. The names of all
the earliest settlers are on the other side of this memorial.

"S

MALDEN, MASSACHUSETTS

WE believe we can do no better than reproduce a letter written by Hon.
Charles L. Dean, Mayor of Maiden, Massachusetts, to His Worship
Edward A. Fitch, Mayor of Maldon, Essex, England, in reply to one
received from Mr. Fitch on the occasion of the two hundred and fiftieth anniversary
of the incorporation of our Maiden. With this letter from the English official
came a short account of his old borough, with a request for information in regard
to our Maiden. This letter runs as follows: —

"Malden, Mass. May 13, 1899.
Dear Sir; —

Your valued communication of April 22nd duly received, also a copy of your book
entitled Maldon and the Blackwater. I appreciate your kindness and am grateful for
the trouble you have taken. I regret that you will not be able to be with us on our birth-
day, but you may be assured that the people of Maiden in New England will not forget
the old mother on the Blackwater at that time.

Our historian has given me the following items of information in regard to the old
settlers and I hope that you may be able to trace some of them as coming directly from
your borough.

A leader in the settlement of our town was Joseph Hills, who was married at Burstead
Magna, Billericay, in 1624. He was of your parish of All Saints in 1631, and the births
of his children are recorded there. In 1638 he came to New England with others. His
son-in-law, John Wayte, who was a leading man here, was from Wethersfield, Essex.
Another of our early settlers, Richard Pratt, is said to have been a son of John Pratt of
your borough, where he was baptized in 1615. The authority for this statement is not
known. Salmon, History of Essex, 424, says that John Pratt, an alderman of Maldon,
was buried in All Saints in 161 9. Thomas Ruck, an early landholder but not a settler,
is said to have come from Maldon.

It may interest you to know that out of the little settlement of 1649, which was named
Maldon (now changed to Maiden) have grown three cities with an aggregate population
of about seventy thousand people.

Again expressing our regret that you will not be able to be present at our anniversary
exercises, I am, with kind regards.

Very truly yours,

Charles L. Dean, Mayor^

The territory now included in Maiden, Everett and Melrose originally belonged to
Charlestown and in 1634 it was known as "Mystic Side." The settlement of
Maiden was actually made in 1640, but the town was not incorporated until 1649,
when the following record appears: **In answer to the peticon of seull inhabitants
of Misticke side their request is graunted, viz, to be a distinct towne of themselves
& the name thereof to be Maulden." The name has been spelled Maldon, Mauldon,
Maulden and Maiden. The town became a dty in 1882. The first minister of
the settlement was Marmaduke Matthews, who came from South Wales.

At the two himdred and fiftieth anniversary of the incorporation of the town,
St. Paul's Church exhibited a number of seals of England, and a sermon was at

NEWBURY, MASSACHUSETTS

Newbury is a parish called
Speenhamland and it was there
that the well-known Pelican Inn.
so noted for its good dinners and
high prices, received the many
stage-coach travelers,oneofwhom
wrote these amusing lines: —
"The [amous inn at Speenhamland

That stands below the hill.
May well be called the Pelican

From its enonnous bill."

In ancient times the Newbury
church appointed officers called

"dog rappers," whose duty it was
to drive dogs out of church should
they wander within its doors, the
whips carried by these officials
being used by the church wardens
us symbols of service. Another
event in the early historj' of New-
bury was the siege of the castle
in the year 1152 by King Stephen.
There is practically nothing left
of the fortress, though a picture
of it on the seal of the old town
still reminds us of its previous
existence. This castle was de-
fended during the siege by John
Marshall, the representative of Matilda, who was the daughter of Henry I. Mar-
shall, in command of the castle forces, pretended that he was desirous of consulting
Matilda in regard to surrender and arranged with the enemy to grant an armistice,
giving his little son as a hostage; but, in the meantime, he secretly endeavored to
get provisions. His scheme was discovered by King Stephen, who ordered that
the boy should be thrown by a sling against the castle walls. Fortunately the
King relented. Several times as he was about to murder the hostage he changed
his mind and finally promised to spare his life. A few days later the two were
seen playing some game together, the King having become very fond of the boy.
Near Newbury is the Falkland memorial which was built in 1878 to commemo-
rate Lord Falkland and those of his friends who died on the field of Newbury while
fighting on the King's side. The old Cloth Hall, now a museum, is an interesting
example of mediicval architecture. Another object of interest is the market-place

From a pholopapk

the old Cloth Hall, now used as a museum. One of the
most prominent characters in the cloth trade was "Jack
of Newbury." A picture of this ancient house hangs,
with other photographs, in the Public Library of New-
buryport, Massachusetts.

ii8 MALDEX, MASSACHUSETTS

the Northmen invade the East Anglian shores, but after centuries under the con-
flicting rule of four nations, MaliJon passed through a period of peace suffidently
extended to enable the pt-opie (o build churches. Before the Norman Conquest
beautiful St. Mary's wai, crcctt-d, the tower of which fell in the seventeenth centur>-,
being rebuilt at the tiniL- of ihe emigration of the men who carried the name of
Maldon into New Englanfl.

Though a borough at the time of the Conquest, it is thought that the town's
corporate existence must ha\-c begun under Saxon rule. The first recorded charter
was granted in 1154 by ffcnry II. "Bloody Mary" gave a second charter in 1553
and in 1810 the present charter was granted.

The three lions depicted on the shield of the old borough appear in the town
and city seal of Maiden, Massachusetts. American travelers through Essex County,
England, invariably visit the old churchyard of All Saints, Maldon, where rest the
remains of George Washington's great-grandfather, Lawrence Washington, who
held the living of Purleigh. His burial record is also in the register of AH Saints,
Maldon.

MANCHESTER, NEW HAMPSHIRE

THE one hundredth anniversary celebration of the naming of the city of
Manchester, New Hampshire, was held in 1910, and on this occasion the
Lord Mayor of Manchester, England, sent the following letter to Isaac
Huse, Esq., President of the Manchester Historic Association:—

"My dear Sir: —

Your interesting letter of the i8th May, informing me that one hundred years ago
your town adopted the name of Manchester in the hope that it would attain a position of
importance in manufactures and population, has given me great pleasure and I trust that
your Centenary proceedings will prove a great success.

Your expressions of goodwill towards us are much appreciated and reciprocated.

I am, yours faithfully

Charles Behhzns,

Lord Mayor."

The City Library in Manchester, New Hampshire, has exchanged reports and letters
with the library in Manchester, England, and also contains about three hundred
books, pamphlets, reports and histories relating to the antiquities of the English
city and a description of the cotton industry for which that place is famous. Most
of this collection came originally from the library of the late G. H. Adshead, Esq.,
of Manchester, England, being purchased from his nephew, Hon. John Hyde of
Washington, D.C. At the time of the semi-centennial celebration in 1896 Charles
K. Walker, superintendent of the City Water Works, procured a photograph of

I

MANCHESTER, NEW HAMPSHIRE

CITY HALL, MA\'CHESTER, ENGLAND,

F. U„b,t WiKiM

the City Hall of Manchester, England, which together with a photograph of the
City Hall of Manchester, New Hampshire, may now be seen in the office of the
Manchester Water Works Department.

The early history of this important New England city is of great interest: —
On June 13, 1810, John Langdon, Governor of New Hampshire, affixed his seal
to a bill by which the name of the town of Derryfield was changed to Manchester,
the exact phraseology of the essential part of the bill being as follows :—

"Be it Enacted by the Senate and House of Representatives in General Court
convened:
That said town of Derryfield shall forever hereafter be called and known by the name
of Manchester, any law, usage or custom to the contrary notwithstanding."

The reason for this form of expression may perhaps be found in the fact that the
place now designated as Manchester had already borne several different names.
There is a tradition that the territory was originally called by the Indians Kas-
kaashadi, "the place of broken water," referring to the falls of Amoskeag. If this
was the case this name must have given way to Namaoskeag, meaning "a great
place for fish." The white settlers in this locality called it Nutfield, or the Chestnut

NEWCASTLE, NEW HAMPSHIRE

NEWCASTLE, NEW n.-VMPSHtRE

evcnty-fivc years the capital of the 1'

_, _. . . . . Hirbour" is seen on the righ ""'

is past both sides of the isUnd, which is connected with Portsmouth only by a

Governor Wentworth's mansion is at Little Harbour and here have lived many
of the family, so prominent in the history of the State. Here Samuel Wentworth,
ancestor of three Governors and one of Newcastle's most respected citizens, kept a
tavern called "At Ye Sign of Ye Dolphin." We wish that we had more space to
describe others of the bygone days.

The people of Newcastle were very independent, and it was said that the only
time citizens of Portsmouth took any interest in them was just before election,
tor the Island vote was so influential in the state elections that there was a proph-
ecy "as goes Newcastle, so goes the State."'

It has been said that a Newcastle sailor, as soon as he was able, always returned
to his birthplace like the Kentites of the old days. It has also been claimed that
the natives were so attached to their home that when a woman native of the town
married a man who did not live on the island the husband always had to move
his residence and business to her place of abode.

There are said to be many unmarked graves on the island, and one of the farm-
ers, who did a great deal of plowing with his yoke of oxen, said that he was always
in fear lest his cattle should stumble into one of the ancient graves, an accident
which he admitted had often happened. He used to boast that he knew where

MANCHESTER, NEW HAMPSHIRE

MANCHESTER, ENGLAND

ufacturing center but at the time that Manchester received its name there was little
to indicate that Judge Blodget's prophecy would ever in any measure be fulfilled.
In an address delivered at the centennial celebration of the naming of Manchester
it was said that in the year 1810 there seemed to be but two facts that made the
place in any way notable; one was the existence of the Amoskeag Falls with their
fisheries and possibilities while the other was that the town was the home of Major
General John Stark, the Revolutionary hero, who was then passing a peaceful old
age on his estate near the Falls.

In 1814 the navigation of the Merrimack was fully opened and the river became
a considerable water highway whose traffic continued for some years after the
opening of the Concord railroad in 1842. The manufacture of cloth near the
Amoskeag Falls was begun before Manchester was so named and, in the year of
its naming, a company was formed known as the Amoskeag Cotton and Wool
Factory, This company, however, had little capital or machinery and its output
was small. In the year 1831 the present Amoskeag Manufacturing Company was
chartered with a capital of a million dollars, a large sum for that time, and Samuel
Blodget's dreams of the future began in some degree to be realized. The new
company was organized "for the purpose of taking over the old company, devel-
oping water power, acquiring and selling land, selling sites and power to other man-
ufacturing concerns, building and operating mills of its own and so bringing about
the growth of a flourishing manufacturing town worthy the name it had been

NEW LONDON, CONNECTICUT 139

spelled Mohegan) changed shortly after the naming of the town (now a city) to
the Thames for the English river so well described by Pope in these words: —

**My eye descending from the hill, surveys
Where Thames among the wanton valleys strays.
Thames, the most loved of all the ocean's sons.
By his old sire to his embraces runs."

From the time that Block explored this coast and named the island *' Block
Island,'' probably no civilized person landed on the shores of New London until
Captain John Endicott went there in 1636, as he was returning to Boston from
an expedition against the Indians, when he landed at Groton on the opposite side
of the Thames. A year later the Stoughton expedition pitched camp at New
London and built the first English house ever erected in the place.

The settlement was formed in the year 1646 by the son of Gov. John Winthrop
of Massachusetts, who bore the same name as his father. He was assisted by his
friend Rev. Thomas Peters, a brother of the well-known Hugh Peters of Salem.
The Massachusetts Court gave these two men authority to govern the plantation,
although it was soon after decided that it did not come under the jurisdiction of
Massachusetts, but belonged to Connecticut. We think it may be interesting to
sketch the career of young Winthrop who, we are told, was a pioneer, traveler,
scholar, statesman, lawyer, magistrate and physician. We first hear of him as
advising his father to come to this country and it is very probable that he influ-
enced his parent's decision. He was bom in 1606 in the home of his ancestors in
Groton, England. In 163 1 he was married and sailed for Boston the latter part
of the same year, whereupon he busied himself with the founding of Ipswich, as we
have described in our story on that town, where he lived until he took up his resi-
dence in New London in the year 1647. ^ ^^ meantime he made a trip to Eng-
land in 1635, where he married again, returning to this coimtry in the same year
with a commission from Lord Saye and Sele, Lord Brooke and Sir Richard Salton-
stall and others "to begin a plantation at Connecticut and be Governor there.'*
This settlement he called '*Saybrook" in honour of the two Lords who gave him
the grant. It is also interesting to note that while forming this colony he coasted
along the shore and visited the mouth of the Thames River, which he liked so
much that he finally was induced to start a settlement at New London. He moved,
however, none too soon to the Connecticut River, for hardly had his vessels ap-
peared than the Dutch likewise hove in sight, but as the English flag and the
English cannon had just been placed there ahead of them, they prudently turned
back their prows towards New York. Winthrop remained " Governor of the river
Connecticut, with the places adjoining thereimto" for the space of one year as
conmiissioned by the patentees, then returned to the town of Ipswich which he
had previously founded in the Bay Colony. Some years later he went abroad,
returning in 1643 with workmen, tools and stock with which to take up the busi-

B pliaatratk by Biuitni Pkda Nrwi Cc

ABRAHAM LINCOLN

The Si. Gaudens statue, a replica of which was formally presented ta the British nation by the Hon.
Elihu Root on behalf of the American people, and unveiled in London by the DuLe of Connaught
un July 39, 1990. This is one oi the latest connecting links between the Old World and the New.

NEW LONDON, CONNECTICUT 143

TO COMMEMORATE

HIS GREAT SERVICES

TO THIS COMMONWEALTH

THE STATE OF CONNECTICUT

ERECTS THIS MONUMENT

A.D. 1905

Winthrop Square, where the statue now stands, is the most historic spot in New
London, for it was here that the early settlers had a lookout post against the Indians;
here also hung the first town's bell, the gift of John Winthrop's son, Gov. Fitz-John
Winthrop, in 1698. (The town voted **to ring the bell every night at nine of the
clock winter and summer,'^ which custom of ringing the curfew is still in existence
and has covered a period of two hundred and twenty-three years, with the change
somewhere in the centuries from nine o'clock to eight o'clock on Saturday nights.)
Here also was the site of the three successive meeting-houses where Blinman,
Bulkeley, Bradstreet and Adams preached; and here in 1745, the troops assembled
imder Lieut. Gov. Wolcott previous to their sailing on the Louisburg Expedition.

New London was one of the great whaling ports of New England and up to
i860 this was the most important industry of the town.

The bicentennial celebration of the First Church of Christ in New London took
place in 1870, this year being chosen for the reason that the church records did not
begin until the year 1670, although the church was founded some time before. In
"The Early History of the First Church of Christ, New London, Connecticut"
by Rev. S. Leroy Blake, D.D., published by him in 1897, when minister of the
church, it is authentically shown that the church was organized in Gloucester in
1642 and emigrated with its minister. Rev. Richard Blinman, from Gloucester,
Massachusetts, in 1651, to New London, with about fifty of its members. The
present Blinman Street received its name from him. During the two hundred and
seventy-nine years of its existence there have been but thirteen ministers. The
organization of this church is four years older than the founding of the town. The
First Church in Hartford, Connecticut, emigrated with its minister. Rev. Thomas
Hooker from Cambridge, Massachusetts, in 1636, fifteen years previous to the
arrival of Mr. Blinman and his flock in New London.

We quote a few verses written by George Parsons Lathrop on the two himdred
and fiftieth anniversary of the founding of New London on May 6, 1896.

t(

The river whispered to the sea;
* Bring me the men of destiny,
The men of faith, the men of power,
From whom shall spring a nation's flower!'

Long, long the waves of ocean bore
That message to its farther shore;
At last from ancient realms there came
The makers of the New World's fame.

NEW LONDON, CONNECTICUT 145

Then in the warring Indian land,
Brave Winthrop and his gallant band
Hewed clearings; and from fallen oak
Rose the first hearth-fire^s signal smoke.'*

New London will observe its two hundred and seventy-fifth anniversary on
May 6th of this year (192 1).

In speaking of the great city for which New London was named all we venture to
do is to mention briefly the memorials and places there of interest to Americans, hav-
ing been helped greatly in compiling the list by Dr. J. F. Muirhead of London. First
of all is the recently dedicated statue of Abraham Lincoln in Parliament Square, a
replica of the St. Gaudens statue in Chicago, of which we have included an illustration.
Next in interest is the fact that Benjamin Franklin spent about a year and a half in
London between December, 1724, and the fall of 1726, working as a printer, first with
the firm of Palmer, established in what had been the Lady Chapel of St. Bartholo-
mew's Church, and afterwards with Watts, in Wild Court, near Lincoln's Inn Fields.
His first lodging was in Bartholomew Close, whence he removed to Duke Street,
where he had a room at the modest rental of 1/6 a week. When he returned to London
in 1757 in the more dignified position of Agent to the General Assembly of Pennsyl-
vania, he found a home at 36 Craven Street, Strand, which he occupied for several
years; there he wrote various humorous papers under the name of *^The Craven
Street Gazette." The only reminder of George Washington in London is a copy of
Peale*s full-length portrait of him which was presented to the Government by the Earl
of Albemarle in 1919 and which hangs in No. 10 Downing Street, the residence of the
Prime Minister, now occupied by Mr. Lloyd George. The associations of John
Harvard and Captain John Smith with the city of London were mentioned in Part I.

The visitor to London will find a monument in the Charterhouse to Roger
Williams, founder of the State of Rhode Island; also he may wish to see the church
of Saint Ethelburga the Virgin in Bishopsgate, associated with Henry Hudson, who
named the Hudson River. The American will surely visit Westminster Abbey, where
he can see the window placed there in memory of Rev. Phillips Brooks, Bishop of
Massachusetts, the bust of Longfellow by Brock, placed there by his English ad-
mirers, and the medallion and stained-glass window to commemorate James Russell
Lowell. There is also a monument in Westminster, beneath the Tower, to Viscount
Howe, erected by the Province of Massachusetts, while still a British colony. Gen-
eral Burgoyne, who capitulated to General Gates at Saratoga, is buried in the
North Walk of the Cloisters of the Abbey.

Ralph Waldo Emerson spent a night in Carlyle's House at 25 Cheyne Row,
Chelsea, while visiting the city, and there is an interesting tablet and monument
in Southwark Cathedral to William Emerson, a supposed ancestor. Washington
Irving lodged in Bartholomew Close and was fond of exploring the nooks and
crannies of Canonbury Tower.

NEW LONDON, CONNECTICUT 147

The Chelsea Public Library contains a bust of Henry James and the Chelsea
Parish Church has a memorial tablet in his honour.

In front of the Royal Exchange is a statue of George Peabody by Story, a stone
near the west end of the nave of Westminster Abbey marking the spot where the'
remains of this American philanthropist lay before being removed to Massachusetts.
He Uved in Eaton Square.

WilUam Penn, the founder of Pennsylvania, seems to have lodged in Holland
House in Charles II's reign, havdng lived also at No. 21 Norfolk St., Strand. He
spent nine months in Fleet Prison rather than pay an unjust claim and was also
confined in Newgate. He was born on the East Side of Tower Hill and was baptized
in All Hallows, Barking. He attended Harsnett's Free School at Chigwell and
lived from 1672 to 1677 in Basing House, High Street, Rickmansworth. He was
buried at Jordans, together with his two wives and five of his children.

The Pilgrim Fathers^ Memorial Church in New Kent Road, the oldest Congre-
gational church in London (1616), is also worthy of a visit. Another place of
interest is the Parish Church, Gravesend, where the registers in the vestry contain
the record of the burial of Pocahontas, the Indian princess who saved the life of
Captain John Smith and who married John Rolfe. Two stained glass windows
were placed there in 1914 to her memory by the Society of Virginian Dames, there
being also a memorial tablet on the chancel wall.

Edgar Allan Poe, of Baltimore, attended the school kept by the Misses Dubourg
at 146 Sloane Street. He also went to school at Stoke Newington from 181 7 to
1819. Benjamin West lived for forty-five years at 14 Newman Street; his studio
is now St. Andrew's Hall. He was buried in the ''Painters' Corner'' at St. Paul's.
J. M. Whistler died at 74 Cheyne Walk. He lived first at No. loi from 1863 to
1867 and then at No. 96 for twelve years, during which time the portraits of his
mother and Carlyle were painted. He was buried in the burial ground of St.
Nicholas Church, Chiswick, beneath a bronze altar tomb. A memorial to him by
Rodin is to be placed in the gardens on the Embankment to the West of Albert
Bridge.

John Quincy Adams, sixth President of the United States, was married to Louisa
Johnson in 1797 in All Hallows, Barking. Another marriage of interest to all the
English-speaking peoples is that of Theodore Roosevelt to Edith Kermit Carew,
which took place at St. George's, Hanover Square, in 1886. Charles Chaimcey,
vicar of Ware, who became President of Harvard College in 1654, is commemorated
by a tablet in Ware Church, twenty-two miles from London.

The recent death of Francis Hodson recalls to the minds of many Americans
and Britons alike the devoted services of this Englishman, who had been acting as
chief clerk in the American Embassy during the past thirty-five years. He was
an international figure and it was said of him that he was "never in the way and
never out of the way." His father, Charles Hodson, who died in 1906, occupied

148 NEW LONDON, CONNECTICUT

the same position for thirty yeurs, during which time he served under eight American I
Ambassadors. Francis Hodsons brother, Edward, is to occupy this poation now I
and will doubtless fill the post as his father and brother have done before him,

with ability, modesty and tart.

OXF(JKD, MASSACHUSETTS

WHILE Oxford, England, is universally known as one of the world's 1
greatest seats of learning, it may be a surprise to many to read that I
there has been an Oxford in Massachusetts since 1683 when the settle- ]
ment of Nipmuck was named fur the famous English city. The first movement I
toward a settlement in the region now called Oxford was the petition of Hugh '
Campbell, a merchant of Boston, February, 1680, for land for a colony of Scotch
emigrants. The petition was granted, but no effort seems to have been made to
take advantage of it. Shortly after this, two prominent men of Boston, William
Stoughton and Joseph Dudley, were empowered to purchase this land in the Nip-
muck country and reported that with the Hassanamesit and Natick Indians they
had agreed for all their land

"lying fower miles northward of the present Springfield road, & southward to that, haue
agreed betweene Blacke James & them, of which wee aduised in our late returne, wee
haue purchased at thirty pounds money & a coate.

The southern halfe of said countrey wee haue purchased of Blacke James & company,
for twenty pounds."

It was undoubtedly at this time that the town received its present name. It was
through an associate of these two men, Robert Thompson, merchant of London,
England, that the Huguenots were induced to settle in this territory. He got into
communication with Gabriel Bemon, who, though he never settled in Oxford,
nevertheless was most active in making arrangements for the settlement of the
Huguenots here. As a result, from La Rochelle, France, came a letter, dated
October I, 1684, from a representative of the French Protestants there, who, like
the Pilgrim Fathers before them, looked to America as a place of refuge from re-
ligious persecution at the time of the revocation of the Edict of Nantes. The note
in part was as follows: —

"New England, ihc country where you live, is in great esteem; I and a great many
others, Protestants, intend to go there. Tell us, if you please, what advantages we can
have, and particularly the peasants who are used to the plough. If somebody of your
country would send a ship here to bring over French Protestants, he would make great
gain."

To this plantation, then, which had been named for the English city where is the
famous University at which many of the Pilgrim Fathers had received their col-
legiate education, fled bands of the persecuted Huguenots — chiefly from La Rochelle

OXFORD, MASSACHUSETTS

and Us vicinity. They endured
great hardships to reach America
and many died on the voyage,
but the sturdy little band that
remained arrived in Boston during
the winter of 1686 and were hos-
pitably received and cared for at
Fort Hill, where they were fed and
clothed, the scattered churches of
the Massachusetts Bay Colony
taking up contributions to meet
the needs of the exiles. When
spring came they took possession
of Oxford, retaining its English
name, as they liked it so well.

Many famous names in the
history of America appear among
this first list of settlers, including
Pierre Beaudoin, one of whose
descendants, James Bowdoin, be-
came Governor of Massachusetts,
and Benjamin Faneuil, an ances-
tor of Peter Faneuil, benefactor of
Boston and donor of Faneuil Hall.
Andr£ Sigournais was another
prominent member of the original
Huguenot community and his
descendants, the Sigouraeys, are
well known in Boston and other
parts of New England. Andrew
Wolcott Sigoumey, seventh in
descent, still owns the old family
homestead in Oxford. In 1884,
Miss Myrtis S. Sigoumey {now
Mrs. William Bacon Scofield)
unveiled a splendid monument
on Fort Hill erected by the
Huguenot Memorial Society to
perpetuate the memory of the Huguenots who made the first settlement at
Oxford. At the period made famous by Longfellow in his "Evangeline" several
other French families also settled here. This town was the home of Clara Barton,

PhXupatlui ty E- B. Laa

HUGUENOT MONUMENT, OXFORD, MASSA-
CHUSETTS,
erected in iSSa by the Huguenot Memorial Society and
unveiled by a descendant of Andre Sigournais, one of the
most prominent of the founders of the town. Although
the early settlers were French, they retained the name
given to this territory by the English owners.

OXFORD, MASSACHUSETTS 151

the famous Civil War nurse and organizer of our Red Cross, and here also Richard
Olney, Secretary of State under President Cleveland, was bom. Olney, by the
way, was the last President of the Huguenot Memorial Society, no successor having
been chosen since his death.

Judge Sewall, that renowned *^Pepys of New England," undoubtedly named the
town and he did so because he remembered his rides over the familiar ground in
England. He also changed the name of the neighboring town of New Roxbury to
Woodstock, his reason for doing so being that there is a town of that name near
Oxford, England.

It is interesting to know that the name of Oxford was originally given by Prince
Charles of England, later King Charles I, to the territory now known as Marshfield,
Massachusetts, when he marked Captain John Smith's map of the New England
coast made in 16 14.

There is also an Oxford in Maine and one in Connecticut.

The city of Oxford, on that part of the Thames locally called the Isis, ranks
among the most ancient corporations in England and its privileges are similar to
those of the city of London. At the coronations of sovereigns the Mayor acted as
Butler, next to the Lord Mayor of London, and received three mazers, or cups
made of maple wood, as his fee until the last feast given by George IV in 1821.
Since then no banquet has been given, and while the Mayor of Oxford retains his
right he has no opportunity to use it, and, therefore, has no mazers to bring home.

In 912 the Anglo-Saxon Chronicle records: —

^*This year died Eathered Ealdorman of the Mercians, and King Edward took posses-
sion of London and Oxford, and of all lands which owed obedience thereto."

Its legendary history, however, goes back nearly two centuries earher and starts
with the tale of the holy Frideswide who founded a nunnery there. She is the
patron saint of Oxford and one of the three crowned figures in the arms of Oxford
diocese is supposed to represent this saintly personage. Churches and castles later
sprang up, and the country became famous for its sport, and many of the Norman
kings resorted to the forests which abounded in deer. Historians differ as to the
origin of Oxford University, though it is generally acknowledged that the movement
gained impetus from the intellectual activity that was so apparent in Paris at the
close of the eleventh century, at the time that the head of the cathedral school
there was William Champeaux. From migrations across the channel this college
town of Oxford, which at that time was neither a cathedral nor a capital town,
became reinforced by the flood of students that had been turned out of France,
so that by the beginning of the thirteenth century Oxford ranked with the most
important universities of Europe.

There are many historic landmarks in this English city, the chief of which,
however, the famous Osney Abbey, has been totally destroyed. ''Great Tom," a

152 OXFORD, MASSACHUSETTS

bell weighing eighteen thousand pounds, a relic of this Abbey, is preserved in the 1
"Oxford Tom Tower." Every night at five minutes past nine "Tom" tolls a i
curfew of one hundred and one strokes as a signal of the closing of the college gates.
This tower was built in 16S2 by the famous Sir Christopher Wren. Tom's time,
through an old custom, is alwiiys live minutes later than Greenwich time, thereby
giving tardy ones a lec\va\' of iivL' minutes in attending chapel, lectures and roll-calls.

The most interesting building among the many in this classical center is perhaps (
the famous Bodleian Library, the most ancient part of which was built between (
1450 and 14S0 to housf the hooks which had been given to the University by
Humphry, Duke of Gloucester. It contains over a million bound volumes andj
about forty thousand volumes of manuscripts. By a copj-right act it enjoys ihe |
right to a copy of e\'ery book published in Great Britain.

Among the men who were natives of Oxford and who won distinction aloog'^
various lines were Edmund Ironside, Rich;ird Cccur-de-Lion, and King John.
Cecil Rhodes, one of the most prominent of the famous graduates of the Univer-
sity, is known to the present generation through his endowment of the Rhodes
Scholarships which enable American undergraduates to obtain the advantages of
an Oxford education at the expense of the endowment fund.

READING, MASSACHUSETTS

READING, Massachusetts, set off from Lynn in 1644 as "Redding," was
named for Reading, England, by some of the early settlers of the town who
. probably came from the English borough on the upper Thames, or from
that vicinity, having first lived in Lynn on their arrival in this country. John

Poole, one of the leaders, was perhaps responsible for the naming of the Mas-
sachusetts town. Among the early settlers were Nicholas Brown, William Cow-
drey, Thomas Parker, Thomas Marshall, John Pearson, John Damon, Jonas
Eaton, Richard Walker, Jolm Wiley and Thomas Kendall. Among later, but
still early, comers whose names have been prominent in the town's history were
the Bancroft, Temple, Upton, Nichols and Wakefield families. Some years ago
Hon. Owen Ridley, former Mayor of the English Reading, became much inter-
ested in the history of the Massachusetts town, made a visit here and was enter-
tained by the late Chester W. Eaton, Esq., of Wakefield. Later Mr. Eaton and
his daughter. Miss Emma Florence Eaton, who is connected with the Wakefield
Historical Society (Wakefield having once been a part of Reading), visited the
English Reading and Mr. Eaton published an interesting account of his visit in
the "Memorial Volume of Ancient Reading" issued on the occasion of the two
hundred and fiftieth anniversary of the Massachusetts town in 1894. At the time
of this celebration Mr. Philip H. Turner, of Reading, England, carried on a corre-

READING, MASSACHUSETTS

READING ABBEY. READING, ENGLAND

spondence with the Wakefield Historical Society, and when the Eaton family made
this visit to the old town in England he gave them a most cordial reception. Mr.
Eaton in his interesting account spoke particularly of the attractive ruins of Read-
ing Abbey, which was at one time one of the most lordly of the ecclesiastical es-
tablishments in England, and which is so well described by Miss Eaton in the fol-
lowing lines of poetry written on the occasion of the two hundred and fiftieth anni-
versary referred to above : —

" Now all has passed away
Save these few stones, near which the Thames doth stately glide.
Gone are thy black-robed monks with cowlfed heads, gone is thy day
Of grandeur. Yet still the truths thou stoodest for must abide,
To make us stronger, nobler; and so I feel, at last.
That a precious blessing lingers in these ruins of the past."

Mr. Eaton also wrote of the historic churches of the old town, including St.
Giles's, a picture of which we have reproduced on the next page. Mr. Eaton ex-
plains that Reading, England, dates back to the year 868, although some historians
declare that the town formed a part of the Kingdom of Wessex, under the Saxons,
towards the end of the fifth century. The name Reading is spelled in a hundred
different ways in the ancient English records and, like that of many English places,
is probably derived from a Saxon clan name signifying the home of the sons of

J 54

READING, MASSACHUSETTS

'■Raed," the head of the clan.
Men called Raed, precursors ot
the modern Reeds and Reids, took
their name from their complexion
— the Reds, like the Whites, the
Browns, etc. To us, of course, the
name has lost any significance of
this sort and remains simply a
link connecting us with that
seventeenth-century England out
c>{ which the fathers came. There
was fought in 1163 a duel that
has come down to us in historj*
lietween iicnry d'Esscx ::nd
Ruijcrt de Aluntford, which took
place in the presence of King
Henry H. To that town once
came John Bunyan, who preached
the gospel , and there also is shown
to the American visitor the hall
where William Penn used to wor-
ship. While there Mr. Eaton
made a careful examination of the
copy of the register of St. Mar)''s Church during the sixteenth and seven-
teenth centuries and found a number of names that were equally well known
in our Reading, such as Poole, Cowdrey, Parker, Bachellor, Brown. Swain,
Townscnd, Hawkes, Taylor, Foster, Walker, Marshall, Eaton, Davis, Goodwin
and Pearson, many of whom comprised the early settlers of Reading in \ew
England. The famous Huntley and Palmer biscuit factory is situated in Reading,
England.

The freedom of the borough was conferred in 1930 on Lord Reading, who had
represented this locality in Parliament for over nine years, and who recently has
been the British Ambassador to the United States. The American Ambassador,
Mr. Davis, was present at the ceremony, during which he said, "No official repre-
sentative of Great Britain has more truly interpreted the English people to the Amer-
ican people, or more thoroughly won the admiration and affection of the American
people than Lord Reading." Our Ambassador, referring to the recent visit of the
Prince of Wales to America, said he verily believed that in the recent history of
the two countries no visit of greater promise, and certainly none of greater value,
had occurred than that of the Prince to the United States, where he had been
greeted with overwhelming enthusiasm.

•hmotrapkrd Jnm i-n old py:^l Kindnti, /jn for*,.-HoS,rljr>n, £,)

ST. GILES'S CHURCH, RE.XDING, ENGI-iWD

READING, MASSACHUSETTS 155

The settlement of our Reading was made in 1639 under a grant ol land from
the General Court to the town of Lynn, being called Linn Village. The name was
changed to Redding in 1644 2.nd the modern form '* Reading" appeared in 1647.
Territory north of the Ipswich River, extending to the southern border of Andover,
was added by a special grant in 165 1. South Reading, the original first parish of
old Reading, where the first settlement was made, was set off as an independent
town in 181 2. North Reading, beyond the Ipswich, the original second parish,
was incorporated as a town in 1853. The present Reading retains the ancient
name and records. The early Reading, therefore, has become in our day three
separate towns. The name of South Reading was changed to Wakefield in 1868,
in honour of Cyrus Wakefield, a leading citizen identified with the industrial devel-
opment of the town, and was not derived from Wakefield, England.

There is also a Reading in Vermont.

ROWLEY, MASSACHUSETTS

'*What mean these mad men, soon sayes one,
Witlesse to run away
From English beere to water, where
No boon companions stay."

CONSIDERABLE correspondence has been carried on between Rev. L. D.
Hildyard, Rector of Rowley Church, Rowley, England, and the town of
Rowley, Massachusetts, and we believe his letters, which we quote below,
will give an excellent idea of the small but attractive English parish and will also
show the love and interest Englishmen have for their offspring on this side of the
water: —

''England, Rowley, Little Wetghton, Hull

April 17, 191 2

Dear Sir: —

In answer to your letter I am sending some photographs of Rowley Church and Rectory,
and Little Weighton Village. There is nothing at Rowley except the Church, Rectory,
and farm and park. Little Weighton adjoins and you will find the pictures of it enclosed.
Here and at Rowley no doubt resided the people who accompanied Ezekiel Rogers to
America. I have also enclosed a photo of myself which is of no interest except that it
happens that the Hildyards have held the ^Living of Rowley' since 1704 and Ezekiel
Rogers only left in 1638. I believe the church is little altered since that date. It is
supposed that Rogers took the Registers to America but I occasionally find a name later
on of one or more of those who accompanied him. I have some small photos recently
sent by a friend travelling in America of several buildings in Rowley (Mass.) but what I
really want is a big picture of the town like a small one I have of ' Rowley from Prospect
Hill.* You would know which you considered best and I should be quite satisfied with
one good one in return for those I send as you have kindly suggested the question of ex-
change. I want, if you are pleased to send it to me, to exhibit it in the village and perhaps
to put it into one of the papers here.

ROWLEY CHURCH, ROWLEY, ENGLAND,
which Rev. Ezckiel Rogers preached for seventeen years before emigrating to Rowley, Massachusetts.

With all good wishes from me and the people of Rowley (England) to Rowkv (Amer-
i).
Believe me,

Yours sincerely,

L, D, HiLDYARD."

Dear Mr. Crcrivdis: —

I read your kind message from the pulpit on Sunday to the Rowley (England) con-
gregation and I have reason to know how deeply touched they were by it. It is indeed
gratifying to us to think that although we are separated by so many miles of ocean, and
though we are all unknown to one another, yet you still have a corner in your hearts for
the dear old place from which Rowley in America took its name.

We have not progressed as you have. The Church in which Ezekiel Rogers ministered
is still standing and the village and hamlets remain very much the same, I should imagine,
as in the days of long ago. But we often think of those faithful ones, who in the time of
Charles First were so beset that they determined to leave their all to maintain their re-
ligious con\-ictions.

I have often regretted that there is no memorial of any kind here to Ezekiel Rogers.
Before this terrible war began, we had an idea of erecting a window in the church, by
which his name and work might be 'had in remembrance,' But alas! the war has put it
out of the question. All we can spare now goes to the various Relief Funds, and we have
reluctantly had to abandon the idea.

ROWLEY, MASSACHUSETTS

It occurred to me when we
were discussing the matter some
time ago, how nice it would be if
Rowley in America were to take
an interest in the matter and pos-
sibly to help us in some way. I
know you will pardon me for making
the suggestion for I dare say, like us,
you are a 'poor community.' But
it has been in my mind for some time
to approach you on the subject.
Sometimes I have thought my dream
would come true, and I have pictured
a great dedication service at Rowley
conducted by the Archbishop of
York in the presence of representa-
tives from Rowley in America —
what a wonderful reunion it would
be after two hundred and seventy-
five years. As I say, it is only a
dream, for the cost of such a memo-
rial would be £150.

Now you must forgive me for
digressing in this manner from the
consideration of your letter. You
ask me for a word of sympathy and
greeting from Rowley. Will you
please tell your good people that we
think of them here, and pray that
God may bless them and him who
ministers to them?

Believe me.

Yours very sincerely,

L. D. HiLDYABD, Rector."

A monument has been erected
in Rowley Cemetery to the
memory of Rev. Ezekiel Rogers,
who was the founder and first
minister of our Rowley, He with
his company of about twenty
families came in the ship "John"
of London, sailing from Hull
and landing at Boston, New Eng-
land, December 2, 1638. The
inscription on this monument is
so interesting that we are repeat-
ing it here : —

MONUMENT IN THE OLD CEMETERY IX
ROWLEY, MASSACHUSETTS,

in memory of Rev. Ezekiel RoRcrs. a founder and first
minister ol the town, who had been minister in Rowley,
England, tot many yeare. Our town was so named in his
honour. He was a cousin of Rev. John RoRcrs. who came
to Dedham, Massachusetts. Rowley, England, has for
some time been considering the placing of a memorial to
him there. This monument bears a most interesting in-
scription, which is given in the text.

Rv.v. EzEKiEL Rogers,

[irr^l minister of Rowley,

Born at Wethers&eid, Esses Co.

England, a.d. 1590, a minister

in Rowley York^re 17 years.

Came to this place with his

Church and flock in April

i6jc), died June 3^, 1660.

This ancicni pilgtim oobly bore

The ark o[ Gi>d, to this lone shore;

And here, before the throne of Heaver

The hand was raised, the pled^ite was given,

One monarih to obey, one crenl to own,

That moiiarth, God; that creetl, Hia word alone.

Here also rest
tile remains of his wives.

With him one came with girded heart,
Through good and ill to claim her part;
In life, in death, with him to seal
Her kindred love, her kindred zeal.

We arc told that his sparkling wit, judgment and learning delighted his father so
much that at the age of thirteen he was sent to Cambridge. Rogers had lived in
Rowley, England, where he served as minister for seventeen years, his piety, wis-
dom and eloquence causing people to flock to hear him from all the adjacent regions.
Once, we are told, he preached in the stately Minster of York on a public occasion
"which he served and suited notably." Rogers and his company wintered in
Salem, Ipswich and Boston whence they began to look about for a permanent
home, in the meanwhile attending services in Mr. Wilson's First Church in Boston.
New Haven had made the colonists tempting offers, but they finally selected a
place on the shore between Newbury and Ipswich where they, with about forty
other families who had joined them, settled in 1639. The General Court ordered
that the following vote be recorded in the State records and the words used
appear on the present seal of the town: —

1639. Mr. Ezechi Rogers' plantation shalbee called

The pleasant brook which flows through the center of the town is said to ha\'e
influenced them in choosing this site and they were probably also influenced by
the accessibility to the "lectures" on either side of them in Ipswich and Newbur;-.
Ezekiel's father was Rev. Richard Rogers and the following quaint lines con-
cerning him have survi\ed: —

"How shall we passe to Canaan now
The wilderness is wide
Soe full of Tygers Beares and wolves
And many a beast besyde

ROWLEY, MASSACHUSETTS 159

He spared no labour of mynde

Noe bodilie griefe nor payne

That tended to his people's good

And to his master's gayne

When strength of leggs and feet did tayle

On horseback he did ride."

Rev. Ezekiel Rogers was a cousin of Rev. John Rogers of Dedham, England, and
Dedham, Massachusetts, a devoted and popular Puritan preacher, whose "lect-
ures" were famous; while his brother Daniel was also a famous Puritan preacher.
His family, therefore, was distinguished for its clerical services to the Puritan cause.
In 1643, Mr. Rogers had the honour of preaching the election sermon, — "and
the ability he showed on this occasion," said Cotton Mather, "made him famous
through the whole country." He married for his second wife the daughter of
Rev. John Wilson and for his third wife the widow Barlcer, who, as has been ex-
pressed, "was in years agreeable to him." On the very night of his marriage, his
house was burned to the ground with all his goods, probably all the church records
and the library which he brought from England containing valuable books given
to him by his father. The stout-
hearted pastor, however, rebuilt
tus home and restocked his
library. Again misfortune befell
him, for he was thrown from his
horse and his right arm was
broken, causing it to be paralyzed
for the rest of his life. Still
undaunted, he learned to write
with his left hand and continued
active imtil his death which
occurred in 1660, Old Style, (1661
New Style). He continually
preached against all evil fashions
and guises of his age, both in
apparel and "that general dis-
guisement of long ruffian-like
hair," as he expressed it. On
his death he remembered his
friends throughout the Colony
and even in England and Hol-
land. President Quincy com-
memorates him as one of the
earliest benefactors of Harvard
College. Part of his real estate

COMMUNION CUPS GIVEN BY REV. EZEKIEL

ROGERS AND OTHERS IN ROWLEY CHURCH,

ROWLEY, MASSACHUSETTS

Those giveD by Rev. Mr. Rogers were brought by him

from England and given to the church ia lus will.

TABLKT IN ROWLEY, MASSACHUSI'.TTS,
erected by the Jewett Family of America in igw, in
memory nf Maximilian and Joseph Jewett, of Bradford,
England, who came over in the ship "John" with Rev,
Ezekiel Rogers, founder and first minister of the Massa-
chusetts Rowley.

ROWLEY, MASSACHUSETTS

was bequeathed to support the
ministries in our Rowley and
also in Byfield and Georgetown
nearby. The last item of Ws
will reads: "also to the church
my silver bowls, which they
used for the commtmion, to be
so used still . " These same
bowls are still used at the first
communion ser\-ice each year,
although they have been re-
hammered and their shapes, there- I
fore, somewhat changed. Sogers i
was succeeded by Rev. Samuel
Phillips, who came from the
English town of Boxford. Almost
directly across the drive from the
Rogers monument in the cemetery
is a memorial tablet, shown in
one of the illustrations, erected
by the Jewett family of America to the first two ancestors of this name who were
buried in this cemetery. There are also stones placed here to the memory of two
other early settlers in this New England town, John Trumble first of Roxburj-, New
England, and William Stickney, who came from Frampton, England, to Boston in
1638, thence to Rowley.

One of the interesting pieces of history connected with Rowley is the fact that
the little town was able to supply cloth sufficient for the needs of the Colony, when
the supply that had been brought over by the colonists from England had failed
them. Johnson in his "Wonderworking Providence" speaks of this inddent in
these words: —

"These people being very industrious . . . were the first people that set upon
making of cloth in this western world, for which end they built a fulling-mill and
caused their little ones to be very diligent in spinning cotton wool, many of them having
been clothiers in England."

Governor Winthrop also records that in this manufacture "Rowley to their great
commendation exceeded all other towns." The name of the pioneer in the manu-
facture of cloth was John Pearson who shipped his cotton from Barbados, his
mill continuing to be the property of his family for the next six generations. A
cedar post that was brought from England and put into that first mill was still
standing and in good condition at the beginning of this century; it was then cut
up into rulers, which were deposited in museums and various other places.

ROWLEY, MASSACHUSETTS

RowJey, England, in the East Riding of Yorkshire, is about seven miles from
Beverley and is a small parish, for we learn that it consists chiefly of a church aad
a school. A visitor on alighting at Little Weighton and inquiring for the town,
received the reply to go "right awah to your right till you come to a gate." An-
other traveler to the other side describes a visit to the old parish, where he met
Rev. H. C. T. Hildyard, who hastened downstairs to put into the visitor's hands the
ancient records and keys of St. Peter's Church, which dates back to the thirteenth
century and contains a font that is a century older. A visitor gives in the New
England Magazine this description of the church: —

"A Uny aide chapel contains a tablet to Sir Ralph Elleker and his three sons, Ralph,
William and Robert, all four of whom were knighted on Flodden Field in 1513 for their
gallantry in that battle. But my mind was full of another hero. I thought how this
httle church was once thronged to hear the true, brave words of Ezekiel Rogers, how dear
its ancient memories must have been to one of his cultivated taste, and how he sacrificed
all, including a very comfortable salary, rather than do violence to his conscience. The
left part of the rectory, as shown in the accompanying illustration, was that of Ezekiel
Rogers. The good rector himself is shown in another picture, beneath a venerable larch
that probably had shaded Mr. Rogers. The Rowley living Is now a family one, and Mr,
Hildyard is to be succeeded by his nephew. Rev. Robert Hildyard. He will be the fourth
of the name in the rectorship."

An interesting relic among the Rectory heirlooms is a handsome blanket bearing
the date 1733, which has been passed down to each successive Rector for one hundred
and seventy-six years.

SALISBURY, MASSACHUSETTS

OF the New England towns, Salisbury ranks among the earliest, a settlerorait
having been made at Merrimac on the Merrimac River as early as 1638,
one of the earliest settlers being Roger E^tman, the ancestor of all of
that name in America, who sailed to this country from Southampton, England, on
the ship "Confidence." The General Court two years later changed the nanie of
this little settlement to SaUsbury as several of the first colonists came from the
Enghsh town of the latter name, among the number being the first minister, Rev.
William Worcester. It is also believed that one of the deputies present at the
session at which the town was named, was Christopher Batt, who came from the
English Salisbury. It has been said of the early settlers of the town that they
"were men fitted by education to adorn any station" and by their foresight and
care the town early became a pioneer along several lines — notably shipbuilding,
and later, the slavery agitation. Here was born Daniel Webster's mother, Abigail
Eastman, the daughter of Roger Eastman, who was a great-grandson of the early
settler.

There are also Salisburys in Connecticut, New Hampshire and Vermont.
Salisbury, England, at the junction of the Avon and the Wily, is a cathedral
city and the capital of Wiltshire. More than seven centuries ago the town and
cathedral were transferred to their present location from the wmdy pirmacle of
Old Sarum two miles distant, the direction of the removal, as the tradition goes,
being determined by the flight of an arrow. The military and the clergy quar-
relled, whereupon the bishops concluded that it was time to move to another local-
ity, the present Salisbury (or New Sarum) being chosen for the site of the new
cathedral, which is considered to be one of the finest examples of early English
architecture, dating from 1220. The following lines give in a novel way some
statistics concerning the construction of the building: —
"As many days as in one year there be.

So many windows in this church you see;

So many marble pillars here appear

As there are hours throughout the fleeting year;

As many gates as moons one here may view,

Strange tale to tell, yet not more strange than true."

The town soon grew in importance and in 1227 Henry III granted a charter to
incorporate it, making it a free city.

Queen Elizabeth, while on her way to Bristol in 1574, stopped at Salisbury, and
here, too, James I frequently came for retreat. When being taken in captivity
and to eventual death in London, Sir Walter Raleigh, on reaching Salisbury,
feigned madness and leprosy that he might gain an opportunity to write his immor-
tal "Apology for the Voyage to Guiana." There King James found him and

SALISBURY, MASSACHUSETTS

Onmri h MUn Ftrlrn

SALISBURY, ENGLAND,
showing the Cathedral.

ordered his immediate removal to London. Charles I also came to Salisbury
many times.

It was at the King's Anns, still standing, that the supporters of Charles II
were accustomed to gather when the monarch was in hiding at Heale House. A
part of the Old George Inn was built about 1320. It was known in the early
days as "Ye Grate Inne of Ye George," and it is said that Shakespeare may have
played in the courtyard. Oliver Cromwell slept in the Inn in October, 1645, and
the indefatigable Samuel Pepys refers to it in his diary in these words: "Came to
the George Inn where lay in a silk-bed and a very good diet."

Nor should the literary associations of the old city be forgotten. There appeared
the first edition of Goldsmith's "Vicar of Wakefield" and, in the house still stand-
ing near St. Anne's Gate, Fielding lived for some time and there wrote a portion of
"Tom Jones." The original Thwackum of the novel was one Hele, who was then
master of a school in Salisbury, where Addison received his education "after start-
ing life as such a frail infant that he had to be baptised on the day he was bom."
Anthony Trollope also laid the scenes of some of his noveb there.

During the war Salisbury Plain was the great training ground of the overseas
forces of the British Empire and tens of thousands of Canadians, New Zealanders
and Austrahans were constantly thronging the streets of Salisbiury to which thou-
sands of American soldiers, no doubt, also found their way.

i64

SHERBORN, MASSACHUSETTS

"There's a little gruv-imill town
'Neath a windy western down,
Where the streets of stone-roofed houses stand for centuries the si

In a lap of earth ii lii'-

Over-arched by Dor^tl ^kies,
And a gush of crystal water ^ves it glory and a name.

Mighty monarchs, warriors bold,

Of whose feats ihc laic is told,
Ruled and wrought there in past ages, though by men remembered not,

Who with valiant deed

Lifted Sherbornt to the sides,
And their wisdom and tluir worth renuun, the spirit of the spot.

Great and famous were our sires:

Let them be as beacon -fires!
Nurse we well the glowing embers, lest their splendour be forgot,

When the pomp has ebbed afar,

And, like some forsaken star,
O'er the heights beloved of Ealdhelm broods the Spirit of the spot!"
(Part of the verses ivritlcn by James Rhoades for the Pageant held in Sherborne, England, in 1905.)

E

ARLY in 1905 Francis Bardwell, Esq., Town Clerk of Sherbom, Massachu-
setts, wrote a letter to the Vicar of Sherborne, England, the substance of
which we quote :^

"Town of Sherbokn, Inc. 1674
Office of the Town Clebk,
Settled 1653. Sherboen, Mass.

To THE Rector of the Established Chdrch, Shekborne, Eng.

Dear Sir: Being Town Clerk of this town and knowing that it was called after the
town of Sherborne in England, I write to ask you for information, feeling sure that you can
either furnish it yourself, or place this communication in the hands of someone who can.

This town was settled by Hopestill Layland, Thomas Holbrook, and Nicholas Wood
or Woods. Do any of their names appear on the Parish Register or among the Church
Records?

Tradition has it that it was probably named in honor of Henry Adams, who was sup-
posed to be a native of Sherborne, Eng. Other Incorporators were Morse, Bullen (or
Bolyn), Bullard, Hill, Breck, Fairbanks and Perry. Do any of these names appear on
your records? Tradition again says that the word Sherborn is derived from the Saxon
and means 'pure water,' which is singularly true in regard to this town; is this correct?

I should very much Uke to know about our Mother Town, its foundation and histor\',
in order to write down the facts and place them among our town records.

Is there a history of your town that can be purchased? I would also like to purchase
photographs of the Church and of all places of interest for our Pubhc Library here.

I write you because I think you will perhaps be interested somewhat in this little town
of the Colony of Massachusetts Bay and because, when I was abroad in 1895, 1 was searcn-
ing concerning my own family (the DeBerdewelles, of Bardwell, Suffolk) and I always
found the Rectors and Curates wiUing and pleased to assist. . , ,

With great respect I have the honor to remain

Your Humble Servant,

Francis Bardwell,

Town-Clerk, Sherbom, Mass. U^.A."

SHERBORN, MASSACHUSETTS 165

The answer from the English town spoke of a forthcoming pageant commemorat-
ing the twelve hundredth anniversary of the founding of the town. This unex-
pected result of the letter from our Sherbom encouraged Mr. Bardwell again to
write to the mother town, as follows: —

"Sherborn, Mass. March 7th, 1905.

To THE Hon. Secretaries,

Sherborne Pageant, Sherborne, England.

Gentlemen: —

The kind letter with enclosures sent me by Mr. Field came duly to hand; I cannot
tell you how pleased I was to receive the same. I have delayed in answering until after
our Annual Town Meeting on March 6th, because I desired to read the letter to the towns-
people there assembled, and request some action. Everybody was interested, and a
Committee was immediately chosen to draw up greetings to the Mother town on the
occasion of the 1200th anniversary. These greetings will be forwarded to you shortly.
I send you by this mail a copy of the Boston Transcript, in which I have called the atten-
tion of the readers to the celebration. This paper has a very broad circulation, and reaches
everyone interested in genealogical research in the United States.

I cannot tell you how interested I am personally in this matter, and how much it
means to this Uttle town, which is, let me assure you, a worthy daughter of so illustrious a
mother.

The text of the Folk-play which Mr. Field so kindly sent me I shall have bound and
placed in our Town Library.

I wish it were so that some of our townspeople could be present at your celebration,
and perhaps it can be arranged; anyway our hearts are with you, and we reach out to
clasp your hands across the sea.

Believe me, with the best of good wishes.

Most sincerely,

Francts Bardwell,

Town Clerk of Sherborn.*'

This note was followed in a few months by still another letter expressing the
greeting of Sherbom, Massachusetts, on the twelve hundredth anniversary of the
town of Sherborne, England : —

"Sherborn, Mass. May 26, 1905.

To THE Hon. Secretaries,

The Sherborne Pageant, The Parade, Sherborne, Dorset.

Gentlemen: —

It is my pleasure to inform you that, for and in behalf of this Town of Sherbom,
Massachusetts, I sent you today by the American Express our town's formal greeting
on the occasion of the 1 200th Anniversary of the Foundation of the Mother Town.

I regret exceedingly that our Town ha^ not chosen an accredited representative to bear
these greetings and to be with you at this time, for this anniversary means so much to our
Town, the foundation of whose existence found root in English soil.

When we look back upon the beginning of this Town and think of the character of its
founders, and through them and their influence in the building of a second great English
speaking nation, we have profound respect for the Mother Country which reared such
sterling men. There is something firm, resolute, fearless, and trustworthy in the New
England character, and this is our heritage from those who came from Old England to
establish new homes in a strange land.

So then at this time, one of the most remarkable epochs in the history of your ancient

i66 SHERBORN, MASSACHUSETTS

Town, when strangers throng your thoroughfares and marvel at your Historic Pageant, ,
be assured that although an ocean separates us, still your kinsfolk in this little town, your
American daughter, feel [iridc in your great Anniversary, and wish you all joy in your
festivities, and the heartiest ^tntimi'nls of prosperity for your future.
With much esteem, I have the honor to be

Yours with respect,

Francis Babdwell,

Town Clerk of Sherborn,"

The formal greeting reads as follows:—

I THE Town- of Sn]£RnnR\-K, HnRSET, England,

From her Ami;kicax XamivSake the Town of Sherborn, in Massachusetts.

Greeting — Our forefathers, men of indomitable spirit and God-fearing ancestry, made
their habitation in the wilderness, and, with the homefeeling strong within them, gave
their new abode the ancient name nf Sherborn. We, their descendants, have receivf
with filial pride tidings of thi' forthc<iming celebration of the twelve hundredth anniversary
of the founding of the Mother 'I'own, Your glorious record of traditions and memories
of a thousand years we deem our common heritage.

We greet you on this memorable occasion with a message of esteem and good will,
trusting that the ties of a common blood and a common tongue may, through the advanc-
ing ages, more closely bind town to town and nation to nation. May the spirit that existed
in the eighth century in Old England, and that in the seventeenth century found echo in
the wilds of New England, be an inspiration to all our lineage. And may the coming years
bring to all peace, prosperity, and happiness, by the grace of God, who for twelve hundred
years has cherished the people of St. Ealdhelm's honoured town.

Done pursuant to a vote passed at the annual town meeting held March the dxth, in
the year of Our Lord, One Thousand Nine Hundred and Five.

Inhabitants of the Town of Sherborn, Massachusetts,

By its Committee,

Francis Bardweix,
Robert H. Leland,
Charles O. Littlefield."

This greeting from Sherborn was read by a herald on horseback at the end of the
pageant, being received with great applause, and it was also read a second time in
Sherborne Abbey. It turned out, however, that our town was represented in three
different ways. First of all, a Miss Holbrook, who was a direct descendant of
Thomas Holbrook, one of the original settlers of our Sherborn, went all the way
from her home here in order to be present at the celebration in Sherborne, England.
Secondly, — on one day of the pageant, Sherborn, Massachusetts, was officially
represented by Lorin Andrews, Esq., U.S. Consul at Bristol, England. Thirdly, —
it was discovered that the daughter of L. N. Parker, Esq., was a direct descendant
of Richard Parker who originally owned the land comprised in our Sherborn that
was sold to the immigrants who came from Sherborne, England. This interesting
information was brought to light by Miss Holbrook and was not known, curiously
enough, at the time Miss Parker was chosen for one of the most important parts
in the festival. It may be interesting to mention that Louis Napoleon Parker, Esq.,

ide ^1

SHERBORN, MASSACHUSETTS

■■S>urbm

LONG STREET AND CONDUIT, SHERBORNE, ENGLAND,

showing Sherborne Abbey in the background.

At the pageant held in the English town in 1905, at which the Massachusetts Sherbora wu represented, a

mess^e from the Uassacbusetts town was read in the Abbey. The New England town Is spelkd without

the final "e."

was the music master of the Sherborne School and is well known on account of being
the author of the plays "Disraeli," "Rosemary" and "Pomander Walk." He was
chiefly responsible for the great success of this celebration. The last scene of the
pageant represented the English Sherborne with the British emblem and the
American Sherborn with the Massachusetts coat of arms standing together on a
pedestal, and below them were four girls carrying a model of Sherborne Abbey, while
four boys dressed as Indians had with them a model of the "Mayflower." This
picture is shown on the next page. The two towns then embraced while the band
played "The Star-Spangled Banner" and "God Save the King." Many tableaux
were presented which showed the history of the old town, among the most interest-
ing being St. Ealdhelm receiving the pastoral staff from King Ina; Bishop Ealhstan
defeating the Danes; Death of King Ethelbald; Bishop Ealhstan blessing the boy
Alfred; Bishop Wulfsy and monks; William the Conqueror removing the See to
Sarum; Bishop Roger of Caen laying the foundation stone of Sherborne Castle;
Foundation of the Hospital of St- John; Sherborne School receiving its charter and
Sir Walter Raleigh's arrival in Sherborne. Sir Walter Raleigh is closely associated
with Sherborne, for it was in the castle given to him by Queen Elizabeth in 1599
that he ^nt some of the happiest years of his life. Vicar W. F. Lyon in writing

SHERBORN, MASSACHUSETTS

169

SHERBORNE CASTLE, SHERBORNE, ENGLAND

from tlie Sherborne Vicarage in 1903 to our Sherborn told the story of the building
by Sir Walter Raleigh of the present residence of the Lords of the Manor in Sher-
borne. There is a seat in these grounds upon which Sir Walter was smoking some
tobacco which he had just introduced into the country. The smoke exuding from
his mouth caused his servant to think that his master was on fire, whereupon he
threw a jug of beer over him to put it out.

The word "Sherborne" is supposed to be derived from "Scir," meaning clear,
and "Bume," meaning a brook or spring, the monks having called the place Pons
limpidus, signifying "the dear spring." In 705 a.d. it was the seat of a bishopric
founded by Ina, King of the West Saxons, with his kinsman Ealdhelm, Abbot of
Malmesbury, occupying the position of first Bishop of Sherborne. This English
town, lying in the most picturesque part of Dorsetshire and once the capital
dty of Wessex, is celebrated to-day for its magnificent abbey, its flourishing
school and its two picturesque castles.

The pageant took place near the ruins of the old Castle which was founded by
Roger of Caen, Bishop of Sarum and Abbot of Sherborne.

Our Sherborn was settled in 1652 and incorporated in 1674 when it was first
called Shearbom, the first settlement having been at "Bogestow." The present

170

SHERBORN, MASSACHUSETTS

historian of Sherbom believes the name of his town was given in deference to John
Hull, the "Mint Master, " who owned an original grant of land. He was not bora in
Sherborne, England, but his family was closely associated with Raleigh, who knew
Sherborne so well.

:

SPRIXCFIELD, MASSACHUSETTS

riLLIAM PYNXHOX of the little parish of Springfield, England, would
be pleased and doubtless much surprised if he could see the great dty
of Springfield, Massachusetts, which was founded by him. It would
seem as if the people of our Springfield should place a special memorial to him in
addition to the memorial in the Peabody Cemetery which has been dedicated
to the I'ynchon family. Some years ago, wc are told by AV. P. Adam?, Esq.,
President of the Connecticut Valley Historical Society, the children of one of the
schools of Springfield subscribed eight dollars to start a fund to erect a proper
memorial to this early pioneer. There are some additional funds amounting to
one hundred and sixty dollars which have been collected by the Historical Society,

I

PYNCHON FAMILY MEMORIAL IN THE PEABODY CEMETERY, SPRINGFIELD,

MASSACHUSETTS

William Pynchon was rector of .Ml Saints Church io Springfield, England, and m his honour our city of

Springfield, Massachusetts, was so named.

SPRINGFIELD, MASSACHUSETTS

also a private subscription of one thousand dollars for this purpose and doubtless
some day the rest of the fund will be raised by the people of Springfield.

William Pynchon was educated at Oxford, was one of the patentees named in
the charter of the Colony of Massachusetts Bay, dated 1628, and was connected
with the government of the company before it was transferred to America. He
lived in Springfield, England, and wlule there was warden of All Samts Church for
which All Saints Church in Springfield, Massachusetts, was named and from which
it was also designed. He came over with his wife and four children in the "Jewel,"
one of Winthrop's fleet, in 1630 and during his first year in Massachusetts he founded
Roxbury and became the treasurer of the colony. He believed that it was possi-
ble to get large returns by trading with the Indians on the banks of the Connecticut
and he recommended, therefore, that his fellow-townspeople establish a new set-
tlement there. Accordingly, the inhabitants of Roxbury in 1635 were granted
leave to "remove themselves to any place they should think 'meet.'"

Springfield possesses the original declaration dated May 14, 1636, under which
the setUement was begun, a few setUers, however, having occupied the lands near
here a year or two before. The names of the earhest settlers are William Pynchon,
Miles Morgan, Henry Smith, Elizur Holyoke, Heiuy Burt, Lieutenant Thomas
Cooper, John Pynchon, Deacon Samuel Cbapin and Richard Sites, Other impor-
tant people in the town in later years were the Brewer, Dwight and Bliss families.

This change to Connecticut proved profitable, for Pynchon was soon able to

SfBJ«ji »-, F. A

ALL SAINTS CimRCH, SPRINGFIELD, MASSACHUSETTS,
D Springfield, England.

named for the church of the si

ship to England more than one thousand dollars' worth of beaver skins. River
fishing also became very profitable to these settlers, and at one time shad were so
common that a man on being hired was compelled to agree to eat one shad a cer-
tain number of times a week.

In 1640 the name of the town was changed from the plantation of "Agawam"
to Springfield, in honour, of course, of Pjuchon, being therefore, the first town to
be settled in Massachusetts west of Boston, Cambridge and Watertown. It is
interesting to mention, perhaps, that for one hundred years after the settlement the
Connecticut River was still spoken of as the "Great River."

The latter part of William P>'iichon'5 life was unfortunate, for a book written
by him that appeared in London, England, was so severely criticised that he was
forced to leave this country permanently and to return to England in the year
1652. Much correspondence ensued between England and our Springfield with
the final result that the book was burned in Boston by order of the General Court.

Pynchon bought land in Wraysbury, just below Windsor Castle, where he lived
until he died in 1662. We give a picture of the Pynchon tablet placed in the
church in Writtle, England, and also another showing the interior of the church
in Wraysburj', England, where William Pynchon was buried. Pynchon's son,
John, took his father's place in Springfield, Massachusetts, and it has often been
said that they have been to that city what the Adams family has been to Massa-

SPRINGFIELD, MASSACHUSETTS

INTERIOR OF THE CHURCH IN WRAYSBURY,
ENGLAND,

chusetts and to the country. It is also an interesting fact that the Pynchon family
is still prominent to-day in Springfield, Massachusetts, and as there are fourteen
towns in this country named for Roxbury and thirteen towns named for Spring-
field, William Pynchon deserves a foremost position in the history of New England.
The first minister of the Springfield colony was Rev. George Moxon who was
installed as pastor in 1638. The first parish meeting-place was not erected, how-
ever, until 1645, and it is said to be the first building devoted to religious worship
in this State west of Boston and its vicinity; it was, of course, the beginning of
the First Church of Springfield, the present church building not being erected
until 1819 when Court Square was laid out as a park. Near this church, on State
Street, is the well-known St. Gaudens statue of "The Puritan" erected by Chester
W. Chapin, Esq., in memory of Deacon Samuel Chapin, one of the founders of
the dty. Deacon Chapin was one of the first selectmen, was deacon of the first
church and, with Pynchon and Elizur Holyoke, was one of the first magistrates of
the town. In Court Square is also a statue of Miles Morgan of Bristol, England,

SPRINGFIELD, MASSACHU^TTS

175

one oi the {noneer band who with Fynchon and Chapin settled in the town in
1636. It is interesting to mention that Miles Morgan married in Beverly, Massa-
chusetts; and it is said that the bride and groom were obliged to return to
^ringfield on foot carrying with them muskets and household articles.

Traffic on the Connecticut River has been discussed continually and at one of
the Springfield celebrations this poem, written by Charles H. Barrows, Esq., ^-
tiUed "To the New Connecticut," was read; it gives a very exaggerated idea,
however, of the possibilities of nav^tion on this fine river: —
"Let every sleeper waken
And ^ the waking shout,
Let measures prompt be taken
To dredge the harbour out.

Then silent keep, doubter.

We all shall live to see
A thoroughfare by water

From Springfield to the sea.

Soon the white wings of Commerce

Will at our port be found,
And as one sign of promise

We will let Long Island ' Sound.'

Well keep spccm wfaales, we dieamen,

In flocks, at Windstu' Locks,
WbenEuK^>ean steamers

Tie Up at Springfield dodcs."

Springfidd, England, is the easton suburb of ChehnsfOTd. Here is dtuated the
County Gaol, a ^o(Hny bu3<UDg enlarged ir^ recent years for the accommodation
ci the "guests" consi^ied to it, bot once past this d^res^ng [dace Springfield is
pleasing and cheerful. Its long street, where the quaint sign of the "Three Cups"
stands out, gives place to sulxirban villas with their attractive grounds. The
pazish church of All Saints is shown <m page 171. Goldsmith lived in the town for
some time while writing "The Deserted Village."

Other New Iki^aiKl towns by the name of Springfield are in Maine, New
Hampshire and Vermont.

IJ6

o

STRATFORD, CONNECTICUT

LIVER WENDELL HOLMES wrote the foUowing poem which was read^
at the dedication of the Shakespeare Memorial Fountain at Stratford-on-

Avon in the year tSSy: —

"Land of our I'LUhers, ocean makes V

But hfeirt lo heart is truel
Proud is your lowering daughter in the West,
Yet in her burning life-blood reign confest
Her mother's pulses beating in her breast.
This holy fount, whose rills from heaven descend,

Its gracious drops shall lend^
Both foreheads bathed in that baptismal dew,
And love make one the old home and the new!"

On this occasion Henry Irving made the principal speech and there was also read
a letter from James Russell Lowell, which expressed his belief that the dust that is
sacred to the Englishman is not the less sacred to the American. This memorial,
the gift of George W. Childs of Philadelphia, during the jubilee year of Queen
Victoria, was placed in the old Rother Market, not far from Shakespeare's birth-
place in Henley Street. One of the inscriptions on this fountain records these words
of Washington Irving: "Ten thousand blessings on the bard who has gilded the
dull reahtics of life with innocent illusions."

Other places of interest to the visitor in this ancient Warwickshire town, besides
the birthplace and the fountain, are Anne Hathaway's cottage; New Place, where
once stood the house in which the dramatist lived and died; the Shakespeare Memo-
rial Theatre, Library and Picture Gallery, where performances of his plays are given
each year on his birthday^the dramatic season extending over three or four weeks;
and his tomb in Holy Trinity Church, visited each year by thousands of tourists.
It may be of interest to mention that in the south end of the Clopton Chapel of this
church is a window, which was bought with contributions made by visitors from the
United States, and is hence known as the American window. Of the Americans
who have been fascinated by the old town, we may mention Washington Irving and
Nathaniel Hawthorne, who spent much time lingering "on Avon's banks, whose
streams appear to wind with eddies fond round Shakespeare's tomb," to quote
from a poem written by John G. Cooper. This beautiful river in its relation to
Shakespeare is also well described by Longfellow: —

"Flow on, sweet river! like his verse

Who lies beneath this sculptured hearse;

Nor wait beside the churchyard wall

For him who cannot hear thy call."

Washington Irving has made famous the Red Horse Hotel where he so often stayed
and where he wrote his "Sketch Book." There is also the Shakespeare Hotel,

STRATFORD, CONNECTICUT

177

the building dating back to
the fourteenth century. Its
old sign upon which appears
Shakespeare's portrait and this
legend, "Take him for all in
all, we shall not look upon
his like again," is now shown
inside the hotel. Even the
bedrooms are named after some
of his plays, while the bar was
once, and probably still is,
decorated by these appropriate
words, " Measure for measure. "
Another point of interest, of
course, is Harvard House, the
early home of the mother of
John Harvard, described in
Part I under Cambridge,

It is told on good authority
that the great American show-
man, P. T. Bamum of Bridge-
port, Stratford's neighboring
city, once endeavored to pur-
chase Shakespeare's birthplace
to exhibit at his circuses in
this country, while at another
time some German professors
asked permission to examine
Shakespeare's brain to deter-
mine whether its size was
in proportion to his genius.
This last request was made
in spite of the fact that the poet himself is said to have requested that this verse
should be cut on his tombstone: —

" Good frend for Jesus sake forbeare.

To digg the dust encloased heare:

Bleste be y* man y' spares thes stones,

And curst be he y* moves my bones."

The Connecticut town is mindful of the fact that it is named for William Shake-
speare's home across the seas and, in his memory and as a further recognition of
the common literature and heritage of the two countries, the donor of the Stratford

'holographed 4> Dotitlai

presented by George W. Childs, of Philadelphia. It was dedi-
cated in 1887, the jubilee year of Queen Victoria, the principal
speech being made by Henry Irving. A letter from James
Russell Lowell was read at the dedication, as well as a poem
written especially for the occasion by Oliver Wendell Holmes.

STRATFORD, CONNECTICUT

friyn a pkalnfrapli Ki^ili/ii ,Virr fc.ini

STRATFORD LIBRARY. STRATFORD, CONNECTICUT
The Shakespeare window shown in another illustration is the circular window appearing above.

This earliest Blakeman ancestor was a graduate of Oxford University and was such
a learned man that he believed the English language was not a suitable vehicle to
express a scholar's work, preferring Latin like many others of his day. Another of
the earliest settlers in this Connecticut town was William Beardsley, who lived in
the English Stratford during the daj-s when Shakespeare was alive; who probably
when a boy witnessed the bard's funeral and who is said to have brought across
the waters the name of Stratford for our town. A few years ago his connection
with Stratford-on-Avon was established by one of his descendants, Mrs. Margaret
Beardsley De Lacour, a native of the Connecticut Stratford, who found his record
in the parish register there. The town of Avon in New York State was named
for the English river by descendants of Beardsley. Other well-known names of
the earliest settlers are Curtiss. Fairchild, Hurd, Peat, Sherwood. Wells and Wil-
coxson. Two other Englishmen who took a great interest in the New England
town were Thomas Welles and his brother John, who are ancestors of this family
now living in our Stratford. It may be of interest to record that the first wife erf

STRATFORD, CONNECTICUT

Thomas Welles {who became a
governor of Connecticut) was
Elizabeth Foote, daughter of John
Dening of England, who is sup-
posed to have been related to
Shakespeare. A further proof of
this relationship is the fact that
Dame Elizabeth, wife of Sir John
Berrod and grand-daughter of the
celebrated poet, requested in her
will that £50 be given to her ,
cousin Thomas Welles,

In the record of the descend-
ants of the widow Elizabeth Cur-
tiss who settled in Stratford,
Connecticut, 1639-40, which was
compiled by Frederic Haines
Curtiss, Chairman and Federal
Reserve Agent of the Federal
Reserve Bank of Boston, is
found the following: "John
Curtis of London, England, had
his coat of arms described below, confirmed May 9, 1632, just forty-two days
before William Curtis of Roxbury sailed for New England." In a note of the
inhabitants of Roxbury 1638-40 appears the name of John Corteis, but in
1639 John Curtis was a resident of Wethersfield, Connecticut. In 1640 John
Curtis left Wethersfield for Cuphag (Stratford) and his name disappears, but
we find the widow Elizabeth Curtiss and her two sons on the earliest records
of Stratford. The records of the College of Heraldry in London, England,
show that the coat of arms was confirmed to John Curtis of London, Gent.,
son of William Curtis of Hatton in the county of Warwick, Gent., son of
Eustace Curtiss of Malestock — spelled also Makestock and Makestoke — in the
said county, Gent., son of William, who was son and heir of John Curtis of
Malestock aforesaid, Gent.

The Curtis family was from all accounts one of the most prominent among the
first settlers of Stratford and it has been claimed that they suggested naming the
town after Stratford-on-Avon, England. If this be true, it adds another proof
towards the acceptance of the pedigree with the coat of arms, for Makestoke and
Hatton were but small hamlets and Stratford-on-Avon was the nearest town of any
size. That the name of Curtiss was well known in Shakespeare's town is shown
by the fact that the poet used it for one of the characters in "The Taming of the

pUced there by Birdseye Blakeman, donor of the librar)',
who WIS a descendant of Rev. Adam Blakeman, one of
the earliest settlers in this New EDf;land town.

STRATFORD, CONNECTICUT i8i

Shrew." Thomas AIsop and Richard Booth are also supposed to have been natives
of Stratford-on-Avon, and as the Earl of Warwick had letters patent to that part
of Connecticut, it is more than probable that many of the early settlers throughout
the colony were from Warwickshire. The Beardsley, Booth and Curtis families
are still largely represented in the Connecticut town, there being at least twenty-
five families of the latter name. Judge Howard J. Curtis of the Supreme Court of
Connecticut, who is also the President of the Stratford Library Association, is one
of the many descendants.

The Art League in the nearby city of Bridgeport, once part of Stratford, Con-
necticut, has recogm'zed the city's former connection with old Stratford by build-
ing in Beardsley Park a reproduction of the Anne Hathaway Cottage.

In 1896, Rev. N. Ellsworth Cornwall, then Rector of Christ Church in Stratford,
Connecticut, visited the English Stratford and preached in Holy Trinity Church
where, in the chancel, lie the ashes of the famous poet. On leaving, he was pre-
sented by the Vicar, Rev. G. Arbuthnot, with a flag of the Church of England and
a tile from the chancel of Trinity Church which was then being repaired; the tile
has attached to it the following presentation: *^This ancient tile was found under
the stalls of Stratford-on-Avon Church when the chancel was restored a few years
ago. It is presented to the Rector of Stratford, Connecticut, N. Ellsworth Corn-
wall, by the Vicar of Stratford-on-Avon, G. Arbuthnot, who hopes that it may be
preserved as a slight mark of the unity and concord which prevail between the
Episcopal Church of America and the Church of England. XII Sunday after
Trmity MDCCCXCVI."

Christ Church celebrated its bicentennial in 1907 and at that time the Rev. G.
Arbuthnot sent the following letter of greeting to the Rev. N. Ellsworth Cornwall: —

"T&E ViCASAGE,

Stratfosd-on-Avon,
May 18, 1907.

Rev. N. E. Cornwall,
Christ Chiurch Rectory,
Stratford, Conn., U.S. A

My dear Rector ^

I am much obliged to you for sending me the paper with the most interesting account
of the proceedings at Stratford in connection with its anniversary, and I write to extend
to you and to your congregation the fraternal greetings of Stratford in the Old Coimtry.
I hope we may some day have the pleasure of seeing you here again, and when that takes
place that you will spend a Simday with us and occupy my pulpit. It is indeed pleasant
to think that the membership of tiie one Catholic Church can bridge over so many miles
of ocean.

With kind regards and renewed thanks for your remembrance, I remain,

Yours very truly,

G. Akbuthnot."

Some years later, in April 191 1, at the annual Shakespeare festival in Stratford-
on-Avon, Mr. H. Snowden Ward, a well-known lecturer on Shakespeare, carried a

i82 STRATFORD, CONNECTICUT

greeting to the Shakespeare Club of the English town from a number of Shakespeare 4
Clubs in America, including; the one in Cambridge, Massachusetts, the Twentieth '
Century Club and the Art Club in Boston, Massachusetts, and the Stratford Library
in Connecticut. At this niL'c-ting Mr. Ward declared that he represented Strat-
ford, Connecticut, the first of this name in America, This New England town at
the same time sent a wreath to be placed on Shakespeare's tomb and also two greet-
ings in verse written by residents of our town. One of the greetings was written
by Arthur Powell, a resident nf the Connecticut Stratford, who was bom in War-
wickshire and who is a descendant of the Quincy family, one of whom, Thomas i
Quincy, married Judith Shakt-speare. He, therefore, can claim relationship with i
Shakespeare, The other grcuting was written by Louise de Forest Shelton and is |
quoted below: —

"A (.;rki;ti\t. to Stratford-ON-Avon

JKO-M StRATTORD, CONNECnCUT, U.S..\.

From this Stratford in Xew England

Send we greeting o'er the sea

To old Stratford-on-thc-Avon

For this week's festivity.

As you honour the great Poet

We would send our homage, too,

From this small New England village^

Stratford Shakespeare never knew.

But we treasure on our bookshelves

Shakespeare's spirit — heart and thought —

And we feel a closer kinship

For the name the Settlers brought

From that England where our forbears

Lived and loved, before they came

To this strange and unknown country,

Bringing a familiar name.

As you sing the Poet's praises,

We in spirit join the throng —

From this Stratford of the New World

Comes an echo of your song.

Kinship, friendship, even greater

Is the tie that binds us fast —

Proud are we to be the namesake

Born from out so great a Past,"

There is also a Stratford in New Hampshire.

i83

SUDBURY, MASSACHUSETTS

WHEN Sudbury celebrated its two hundred and fiftieth anniversary, the
presiding officer introduced Dr. Brooke Herford, an Englishman, then
minister of the Arlington Street Church, Boston. *'I know,'' said the
presiding officer, "one fact that interests us to-day, and that is that the name of
our town of Sudbury was taken from the town of Sudbury in England. Our
settlers were Englishmen; we are descendants from these representative men, and
we are fortunate to-day in having with us an Englishman, a representative English-
man. . . . Dr. Brooke Herford." Dr. Herford in his response emphasized this
fact: **I am here to answer for England, as I have been chosen for that purpose.
In the speeches that have been made it seems to me that England has most of the
glory for what has been done, for it was carefully emphasized that they were
Englishmen who came to settle this part of the country."

To the rich lands bordering the Musketahquid, now the Sudbury River, English
settlers came in 1638, having previously made plans in Watertown for forming this
settlement. The land was purchased from the Indians, and the town incorporated
in 1639, being called Sudbury for the mother town in England. Of a splendid
type of the historic Puritan were these pioneers in the region of Musketahquid —
men of such sterling qualities as Walter Haynes, Peter Noyce, John Blandford,
John Bent and John Rutter, all of whom were passengers in the ship "Confidence''
that sailed from Southampton, England.

To-day the historic town of Sudbury is sought by visitors from many lands,
and the old Wayside Inn, one of the most delightful places of interest in the town,
is made memorable by Henry Wadsworth Longfellow in these words: —

"One autumn night, in Sudbury town,
Across the meadows bare and brown.
The windows of the Wayside Inn
Gleamed red with firelight through the leaves
Of woodbine, hanging from the eaves
Their crimson curtains rent and thin.
As ancient is this hostelry
As any in the land may be,
Built in the old Colonial day.
When men lived in a grander way,
With ampler hospitality;
A kind of old Hobgoblin Hall,
Now somewhat fallen to decay.
With weather-stains upon the wall,
And stairways worn, and crazy doors.
And creaking and uneven floors.
And chimneys huge, and tiled and tall."

There is also a Sudbury in Vermont.

Sudbury, England, is in Suffolk County, and is principally noted for its three

SUDBURY, MASSACHUSETTS 185

The name "Sudbury" is of Saxon origin and comes from South Burgh.
Records show that its charter was granted during the reign of Queen Mary. The
town contains some beautiful examples of timbered houses with overhanging
upper stories.

TAUNTON, MASSACHUSETTS

**We cannot name them in our song.
But cherish in our heart,
And in old Taunton's fair renown
Would bear a filial part."

(Part of a poem written by Mrs. Eleanor S. Deane on the two hundred and fiftieth anniversary
of the settlement of Taunton.)

IN 1890 Judge Edmund H. Bennett, first Mayor of Taunton, Massachusetts,
visited Taunton, England, this being one of the first, if not the first, of the
visits of officials of one Taunton to the other. We give on the next page a
reproduction of a photograph taken at Dunster Castle showing Judge Bennett on
the steps of the Castle with officials of the English town by whom he was very
hospitably entertained. This picture now hangs in the office of the City Clerk,
Taunton, Massachusetts.

On September 13, 1900, Mayor William Alfred Wrenn of Taunton, England,
visited our Taunton to convey the respects of his borough, and to do honour
to the early settlers of our town, who on March 3, 1639, settled here, chang-
ing the name from Cohannet to Taunton, as they expressed it, "in honour
and love to our dear and native country." His visit may have been made
in response to the cable sent some months before by the Aldermen of our
Taunton, which read as follows: —

"Ordered that in consideration of the fact that the Taunton and Somerset Society of
London, England, holds its annual meeting on May 2nd, and that the Society represents
the ancestry of many of the citizens of Taunton and vicinity, the greetings and best wishes
of the Mayor and Board of Aldermen of Taimton, Mass. be cabled to that Society."

Mayor Wrenn was enthusiastically received and presented the following resolutions
as an expression of good will from his native town: —

"The Council of the Borough of Taunton, England, take the opportunity of the con-
templated visit of their Mayor to Taunton, Mass. U.S.A. of continuing the friendly inter-
communication which has for some years past taken place between the two towns, by
sending friendly greetings and expressing a hope that continued and increased prosperity
and happiness is being bestowed upon ^e citizens of Taunton, Mass. More particularly
is the occasion taken advantage of, to accept most gratefully the kind and spontaneous
expression of sympathy by the people of Taunton, Mass. with England in the dreadful
war in So. Africa. The substantial contribution sent by the people of Taimton, Mass.
m aid of the funds collected in England for the widows and children of soldiers who have
lost their lives through the war, has awakened feelings of gratitude and affection not only
in the town of Taunton, England, but amongst the English people."

TAUNTON, MASSACHUSETTS

Our Taunton was not settled
directly from Taunton in the
mother country, but the early
comers were from the southwest
counties of England near ancient
Taunton and this led them to
select this name for their home in
the western world. The earliest
record we have of new Taunton
is that Edward Winslow and
Stephen Hopkins walked through
Taunton to Narragansett Bay to
hold an important meeting with
the Indian King Massasoit. The
first real record of Taunton, how-
ever, was in 1637, when Richard
Williams and a few Puritans from
Dorchester built some houses
there. We are told that the
idea of erecting a memorial in
memory of Williams has been
agitated several times by the
family. There is a bridge over
the Taunton River which is called
the "Williams Bridge," but this
was not erected as a memorial.
Not long after Williams and his
little band settled there they were
followed by the families of Dean,
Baylies, Tisdale, Morton, Cobb,
Crocker, Lovering, Hall, Pool,
Grossman, Williams and others.
There are memorials erected near
the home and on the grave of Elisabeth Pool, who bought a large tract of land from
the Indians and became an active promoter of local interests. Miss Pool's fam-
ily had long lived in Taunton, Somerset County, England. During the two hun-
dred and fiftieth anniversary of the town there was a tableau showing her making
this purchase from the Indians, and this scene is depicted on the seal of the city.

There have been many other interesting interchanges of presents and corre-
spondence between the two places, the most important of which occurred during
the two hundred and fiftieth anniversary which took place in 1889. The Mayor

over the grave of Elisabeth Pool, ivho purchased a large
tract of land from the Indians near here, and who did much
to build up the town in the early days. Her family came
from Taunton, England.

TAUNTON, MASSACHUSETTS

in the Aldermanic Chamber in our
Taimton, A view of the old town
was aJso shown attached to this
address, also a cut of the old castle
which is now used as a museum.
The formal message received at the
same time read as follows : —

"Although unable to be present . . .
we can assure you that the ties of
kindred and tongue which bind your
mighty Nation to the mother country
are still further strengthened by the
remembrance that there exists on the
other side of the Atlantic a city worthy
of handing down to posterity the name
of Taunton which is endeared to us by
the recollection of its historical past, the
contemplation of its prosperous present
and the promise of a still brighter
future."

Our Mayor and Council again replied
and sent a souvenir of the cele-
bration, together with an attractive
picture showing the "Mayflower" in
Plymouth Harbour, a view of Taun-
ton River, a sketch of Taunton
Green and a picture of the City
Hall. The message shown in the ac-
companying photograph was framed
from a timber that came from the
English ship " Sparrowhawk " which
was wrecked off Cape Cod in 1626,
the hull of which vessel is now

one of the relics exhibited in Pilgrim HaU in our Plymouth,
as follows: —

"The Mayor, Aldermen, and Coumon Council of
Taunton, in New England

TO THE

Mayor, Alderuen, and Biirgesses of Taunton in old England.
Greeting . . . We have been deeply touched by the reception of your kind Address of
Congratulation upon the celebration of the 350th Anniversary of the foundation of our
City, which happily arrived on the very day of its occurrence. We assure you that we
fully reciprocate your kindly sentiments, so pleasantly expressed, and we fondly cherish
the memory of your ancient, brave, and loyal Borough, with its historic castle, its beauti-
ful Church of St. Maiy, and its charmmg river m that lovely vale of Taunton Dean.

MESSAGE SENT BY TAUNTON. MASSACHU-
SETTS, TO TAUNTON, ENGLAND, IN 1889,
on the occasion of the two hundred and fiftieth anni-
versary of our city. The frame is cut from a timber
that came from the English vessel "Spanowhawit,"
which was wrecked off Cajie Cod in 1626. The hull
of this ship is now in Pilgrim HaU, Plymouth, Massa-
chusetts.

The message reads

iQO TAUNTON, MASSACHUSETTS

We wonder not that our fathers chose our name 'in honour and love to their dear and
native country/ and we congratulate ourselves that they brought with them from their
own land those lofty and sterUng principles of thought and action which have contributed
so much to our prosperity, and secured for us the manifold blessings we now enjoy.

May we never bring discredit on our ancient name, but rather lead our English mother
to ever feel a just pride in her American daughter, and may the bonds of love and amity
between us, and between our respective countries grow stronger till time shall be no more.

Given in our Council Chamber this eighth
day of August a.d. 1889."

An interesting account of the celebration appeared in one of the English news-
papers in Taunton, entitled ^'Taunton's American Daughter/'

Wilfred Marshall of Taunton, England, is very famiUar with our town, having
visited it three or four times.

That the citizens of Taunton, England, still keep up their interest in the New
England city is evidenced by a visit made here in February, 1921, by Thomas I.
Perry, a local magistrate of the mother town, who called upon Mayor Coughlin
and the other officials at City Hall. In discussing the visit to Taunton, Massa-
chusetts, made by former Mayor Wrenn of his town in 1900, he stated that
the late Mayor's widow was the first woman member of the town council of
Taunton, England.

**Ich was bore at Taunton Deane where should I be bore else?" is the boast of
the inhabitants of old Taunton and the nearby towns, which are situated in what
is called "Taunton Dean'' or the "Vale of Taunton." The name Taunton is
derived from the river Thone, sometimes called Tone, which flows through the
town. The name is also sometimes said to have been derived from the Gaelic
"Taun" meaning "of the river" and "town," contracted into Taunton. The
castle of Taunton built by the Bishop of Winchester (see next page) is the im-
portant object of interest in the town. Near this site there was once a castle
which was built in ycx) by Ina, King of Wessex, who dwelt there. The present
castle held out very gallantly against the royal forces in 1625 and the following
lines indicate the joy of the town on being saved: —

"The eleventh of May was a joyful day,
When Taunton got reUef ;
Which turned our sorrows into joy.
And eased us of our grief."

The full history of this castle is one long record of romance and to the New Eng-
lander who has read of the witchcraft and superstition of his country, it may be
interesting to mention one of the objects that is religiously kept in this old building.
It was believed that if a pig died, a witch had "overlooked it," to use an English
expression. After the pig's death its heart was filled with pins, stuck into it as in a
pin-cushion, and it was then put in the chinmey. As long as the heart remained
there, it was supposed that no witch could have power over any other pig belonging

TAUNTON, MASSACHUSETTS

TAUNTON CASTLE, TAUNTON, ENGLAND
The castle dates back to the eighth century, although it has been much renovated.

to that house. A very old example was found in an ancient house and removed to
this castle, where it b still exhibited as a relic of the old days.

It may be interesting to mention that Thomas Chaucer, the son of Geoffrey
Chaucer, "the father of English poetry," was at one time constable of this castle,
which gives us an idea of its antiquity.

There is a village near our Taunton called Britanniaville, so named because of
the fact that britannia ware was first manufactured in the United States in an old
building now belonging to the Reed and Barton Corporation. The village arose
around this little shop. The ware was so named because it originated in Britain
near Sheffield. A number of Englishmen came over from England to work in this
trade and their coimtrymen have continued to come up to the present time.

TOPSFIELD, MASSACHUSETTS

NOT long ago when a ^'isito^ from Topsfield, Massachusetts, visited the
mother town, the drh'cr of the carriage, in reply to the question as to how
the English Toppesficki got its name, said: "Well, they must-a-caught it
as it came ulong. Come by a whirlwind perhaps." Another old character de-
clared it was probable that it m as so named on account of being the topmost vil-
lage in the shire. 'I'he place undoubtedly derived its name in Saxon times from
a chieftain called Toppa, who owned this territoiy. At various times the town
has been called Toppi-^fend, Toppesford and Thopefield.

A \'i^itor to the mother town from New England on looking over the church
register at St. Margarets in this Essex village found the following names, all well
known to our Topsticld and vicinity: Allen, Barker, Barnes, Clarke, Davison,
Hale, Hardy, Palmer, Reed, Rice, Smith, Wildes and Wilson. In this church
register appears the name of "Samuel Sjinonds, Gent." and his wife Dorothy, as
well as the records of baptism of their ten children bom between the years 1621
and 1633. Samuel Sjinonds aftcnvards lived in Ipswich in New England and was
a prominent man and "Assistant" or member of the Governor's Council. It was
Symonds who was responsible for the change of name from New Meadows to
Topsfield in remembrance of the parish in old England where he had worshipped.

I

TOPPESFIELD, ENGLAND,
from which place Topsfield, Massachusetts, received its n.

TOPSFIELD, MASSACHUSETTS

ST. MARGARET'S CHURCH, TOPPESFIELD, ENGLAND
Samuel Symonds, the Assistant, who settled in Ipswich in the Massachusetts Baj- Colony and was instni-
mentat in the naming of TopsQeld, was a communicant in this church and here his children were baptized.
There are also a number of other names in the register of the English church that are well known in this
New England town.

Zaccbeus Gould, another early settler, wanted the settlement called Hem[>stead
because he came from Hemel Hempstead in England, but the Court ruled other-
wise. Other early settlers besides Gould were William Perkins of London, William
Towne, William Howard, Francis Peabody, John Wilde and Thomas Baker.

Topsfield, Massachusetts, received its name in 1650, although it was settled as
early as 1639; it was an offshoot of Agawam, the early name of Ipswich and those
chiefly responsible for its settlement were two of the party of John Winthrop, Jr.,
who left Ipswich to come over to this new town.

A well-known minister in our Topsfield was Rev. Joseph Capen of witchcraft
times, who married a daughter of John Appleton of Ipswich and whose fine old
seventeenth century manse with overhanging second-story has been restored and
now is owned and occupied by the local Historical Society. This attractive New
England town has become the favorite summer resort of many prominent people.

The only interchange which has taken place between the daughter and mother
towns occurred in August, 1900, at the two hundred and fiftieth anniversary of the

194 TOPSFIELD, MASSACHUSETTS

incorporation of Topsfiuid. At ihis time a cable of congratulations from Toppes-
field, England, was read at the meeting and a suitable reply flashed back to the
English town, while the school -children sang "To thee, Country."

Mr. George Francis Ddw in his address at this two hundred and fiftieth anni-
versary relates an amuiiing -^inry concerning "Goodman" Nefand, who had
built his house across llie bmindary line between Topsfield and Ipswich. For
years the constables called to collect taxes and always found him in the other part
of the house and therefore, cif course, in the other town. Finally the Topsfield
constable on one of his visits climbed into the pig-pen and secured a good fat pig,
the sale of which enabled him U< recover the necessary taxes.

Topsfield, Maine, a small township in the eastern part of the Stale, was chris-
tened in honour of Topsilcid, Massachusetts, by Nehemiah Kneeland who moved
to Maine from the Massachusetts town.

i

WALTHAM, MASSACHUSETTS

ON January i6, 1888, there was held in the Music Hall in Waltham the
celebration of the one hundred and fiftieth anniversary of the founding
of the town, on which occasion the residents paid their homage to the
spirit of the past by flying in the building many American and British flags draped
together, and by surmounting one group of banners with a shield bearing the arms
and motto of the Prince of Wales. There have been no official visits between the
two Walthams, though many people from our city have journeyed to Waltham
Abbey, from which our city derived its name. Although at the present time there
is little in the appearance of the prosperous Massachusetts city that would recall
the historic old English town, it Is probable that at the time of the incorporation
of our Waltham in 1738, there was some similarity between the "forest home" on
the Charles River and that on the river Lea, The name Waltham is supposed
to be derived from the Saxon "Wealdham," meaning a "home in the forest," or
"wild," and to this day forests cover probably more than half of the territory of
the New England city. Certainly visions of " Harold's town " with the Lea winding
in and out among the fertile meadows must have been in the minds of William
Brown, Samuel Livermore, Daniel Benjamin and other dwellers in the western
precinct of Watertown, Massachusetts, when, their petition to have their precinct
"erected into a separate and distinct township" having been granted, they con-
ferred upon the newly made town the name of Waltham. As one historian has
suggested, it must have been peculiarly gratifying to these early settlers "thus to
preserve ever present amid new associations and surroundings the recollections of
their old homes across the sea." The first actual settler within the town limits is
supposed to have been John Page who in 1643 had a house near the present Water-

WALTHAM, MASSACHUSETTS 195

town line; Samuel Bigelow had a house on the western part of the Great Country
Road before 1686, while Allen Flagg and Jonathan Sanderson built at Piety Comer
about 1689. Waltham has furnished two Massachusetts Governors, Christopher
Gore, who was at one time United States Senator and also special Minister to Eng-
land, and Nathaniel P. Banks.

The English village is located on the left bank of the river Lea, about twelve
miles northeast of London, in the county of Essex, to which locality also belongs
Nasing, the birthplace of the Rev. John Eliot, famous for his religious ministrations
to the Indians and the early settlers of New England. No small part of John
Eliot's early work was among the Indians in the vicinity of Watertown and Wal-
tham, and the fact that Waltham Abbey was near Nasing may have suggested to
the early settlers this name for the American town. The exact place where Eliot
preached was on the shore of a large sheet of water which was first called the ** Great
Pond in the Woods,'' and the Indian tribe to which he preached continued on its
shores until the year 1676.

To those familiar with its history, both authentic and legendary, the name of
old Waltham will ever be tinged with romance. Thither came Tovi the Proud,
standard-bearer to Canute the Dane, King of England, early in the eleventh century,
and built for himself in the forest a hunting seat, near which he established a village
of "three score and six dwellers." Here also he founded, about 1020 a.d., the
Church of the Holy Cross and thus it came about that the town was also called at
one time Waltham Holy Cross. Later Waltham came into the possession of Earl
Harold, who, out of gratitude for his wonderful cure by the **holy cross," erected
in 1059 a monastery upon the site of Tovi's church. After Harold was killed in
1066 in the famous battle of Hastings he was buried in this monastery which,
as stated below, came to be known later as Waltham Abbey. In 11 77, Harold's
college was dissolved and an Augustinian Priory was founded by Henry II, which
in ii84became Waltham Abbey. The history of this edifice is, as old Thomas
Fuller says, *'the history of the Church of England." To this Abbey came, for
various reasons, many of the English royalty, from the time of Harold, its founder,
to the days of Charles 11.

One of the most picturesque comers of the old town is *'Romeland,'' an open
square of quaint, high-gabled and stuccoed red brick houses, while in another part,
spanning the Com Mill stream, is a renmant of very early architecture known as
Harold's Bridge. In Waltham also is the house of Master Cressy, in which Cran-
mer, Fox and Gardner in 1533 discussed the question of the separation of Henry
VIII from Catherine of Aragon. Here in the forests the Stuarts did a great deal of
hunting and near Waltham still can be seen the house where it is said that James I,
during one of his hunts, using his sword for a carving-knife, patted a joint of
beef and called it * ' Sir Loin . ' ' Beautiful Epping Forest, the playground of thousands
of Londoners on bank holidays, is near Waltham.

WALTHAM, MASSACHUSETTS 197

There is one historic feature in the old English town of Waltham which visi-
tors will always be interested in, and that is old Temple Bar which for several
centuries stood at the west end of Fleet Street and was one of the entrances into
the real old city of London. In the year 1878 Temple Bar was entirely removed
and was subsequently rebuilt at the entrance to Theobald's Park, Waltham.
The first mention of the Bar is in 1361, and a curious custom was from time
immemorial observed at this point. Before the Sovereign could enter the dty
proper his carriage was halted while the Lord Mayor presented his sword of
office to the monarch, who after receiving the sword returned it to the Mayor,
and until this ceremony had been gone through the King was not allowed to
enter the city. A huge stone griffin, or dragon, now occupies the site of the
ancient Temple Bar.

In 18 13, the works of the Boston Manufacturing Company were established in
our Waltham, and not only for the manufacturing of cotton goods did the city
become noted, but also for the watches made at the famous Waltham Watch
factory, supposed to be the largest works of its kind in existence. The Gore and
Lyman estates, the most attractive probably of the time, carry out the meaning of
the word Waltham, **a home in a forest," on account of their beautiful trees. The
Lyman place was originally granted to William Paine, being later purchased by John
Livermore, who came to this country in 1634 and who was one of the most impor-
tant men of the town, besides being the progenitor of most of the Livermores in
this coimtry. The descendants of John Livermore owned this place until 1780,
when it was sold to Jonas Dix. In 1793 it came into the possession of Theodore
Lyman, whose descendants still occupy the old residence. Isaac Stearns, a grand-
son of one of the early pioneers, and William Wellington also owned much land in
the early days of the town. We read of many Fourth of July celebrations held on
Stearns's wood-lot and in WeUington's Grove, which were both usually full of
partridges and quail.

There is also a Waltham in Maine and one in Vermont.

WARWICK, MASSACHUSETTS, AND WARWICK, RHODE ISLAND

SAMUEL GORTON, who was bom in Gorton, England, and who probably
named Portsmouth, Rhode Island, was the founder of the Rhode Island
Warwick in 1642, those associated with him being Randall Holden and John
Greene, both of Salisbury, England, and Francis Weston. They were soon driven
out of their settlement by the Massachusetts Bay Colony troops, but after obtain-
ing royal sanction for their settlement returned to it. The final success of Gorton
and his few followers against the overwhelming number of their enemies, the Mas-
sachusetts Bay colonists, greatly impressed the Indians, as described by Gorton in
these words: —

200 WARWICK, MASSACHUSETTS and RHODE ISLAND

the Harvard Class of '85, who was Assistant Manager of the Harvard Surgical Unit
which did such splendid work tiuring the war that it was commended in a letter
written by King George V. ThL- Unit began service on July 17, 1915, at the 22nd
General Hospital in FrancL-, wliuro it "carried on" till the end of the war, caring
for a tenth of the British casualties on the Western Front. On its return to
Boston, the weather-stained Stars and Stripes and the Union Jack which had
flown over the hospital during the years of strife were presented at a mass meeting
at the Harvard Club of Boston to President Lowell, who turned them o\'er to the
Har\^ard Medical School. The members of this Unit were entertained at the Castle ,
on their way through England and while there had an opportunity to see the wonder-
ful paintings by Van Djck, Velasquez, Reynolds, Rubens, Holbein and others,
also the peacocks for which the Castle has long been famous, and the attractive ]
grounds. One of the curios of the Castie is a huge bowl known as Guy's Punch-"
bowl, so named after the celebrated mythical personage "Guy of Warwick." This
curiosit\' was made for Sir John Talbot, and an old couplet makes reference to him
and his odd bowl in these words: —

"There's nothing left of Talbot's fame
But Talbot's Pot and Talbot's Lane."

The English borough is situated near the center of the shire, on a hill encircled
by a long cur\'c of the Avon and within sight of the Castie grounds where the well-
known Warwickshire hounds have often hunted their fox. Nearby is Leamington,
a score of years ago one of the great fox-hunting centers of England. Henry James
was very fond of Warwickshire, in fact it was a place to which the intellectuals of
both hemispheres journeyed, including Sir Walter Scott, Nathaniel Hawthorne,
who wrote of Warwick in "Our Old Home," Thackeray, Dickens and George Eliot.

Near the Castle is St. Mary's Church, and in the middle of the choir appear
recumbent figures representing the first Thomas Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, and
his second wife, who both died in 1369. This Thomas Beauchamp was one of
the ancestors of Randall Holden's wife. The great feature of this church is
Beauchamp Chapel and in it lies the body of Richard Beauchamp, Earl of War-
wick, who died in 1439, and Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester, the favorite of
Queen Elizabeth. Dudley founded the Leicester Hospital in Warwick. The
tower of St. Mary's Church contains a peal of ten bells which plays a tune every
three hours, but a different tune every day of the week, which ser\-es to remind
the townspeople not only of the hour but of the day. A mile north of Warwick on
the banks of the Avon is the famous Guy's Cliff, in far-off ages the retreat of the
pilgrim Sir Guy. The present mansion of Guy's Cliff, which dates from the begin-
ning of the eighteenth century, is partially hewn out of solid rock.

The English Warwick held a great pageant during the week of July 4, 1906, on
the Castle grounds on the occasion of the one^ thousandth anniversary of Queen

WARWICK, MASSACHUSETTS and RHODE ISLAND

PtaiopapM iy F. FrUk Sr Co

LEICESTER HOSPIT.\L, WARUICK.

Ethelfreda's conquest of Mercia. On that day, the Stars and Stripes were dis-
played on the grandstand, and the namesakes of Warwick in this country, which
doubtless included the Warwicks of New England, were represented on this occasion.
This group was photographed, but unfortunately the plate was lost.

The Massachusetts Warwick, which is near Worcester, has sometimes been
called the "Switzerland of America." It was one of the four grants made by the
General Court in 1735 for his "Majestie's Province in the Massachusetts Bay."
Samuel Newall and others signed the first petition for the town, which was called
the "plantation of Roxbury," or "Gardner's Canada," so called because the pref-
erence of sites was given to those who were descendants of the officers and soldiers
who served in the expedition to Canada in 1690. Warwick was incorporated in
1763 and was named either for Warwick or for Guy, Earl of Warwick.

WATERTOWN, MASSACHUSETTS

THE family of Sir Richard Saltonstall, who sailed from Yarmouth, England,
in the ship "Arbella," and who founded our Watertown, came from the
small villages of Nether and Over Saltonstall, which are a part of Halifax,
in the West Riding of Yorkshire. Mr. Richard M. Saltonstall, who has edited an
interesting book, written by Hon. Leverett Saltonstall, describing Sir Richard Salton-
stalt's ancestry and descendants, a short time ago \isited the two villages in England
which are named for his family and when he arri\-ed there the people expressed their
fear that one of the family had come back to claim the land. These two hamlets
(of which we give pictures, on this page and the next) are \-ery small and almost
deserted, yet they form a most interesting link between England and America.
Back of these old towns is Saltonstall Moor, which is well known to sportsmen.

The English family of Saltonstall can be traced back from Thomas de Salton-
stall to Frederick II, Earl of Guilford, the first record we have beginning with the
former. In 1597, a Sir Richard Saltonstall was Lord Mayor of London. We have
included a cut of the Church of St. John the Baptist in Halifax, where from the year

. 0/ Sir RWh^d SalioK:idir Ritniidi Prill, iflvr Kiidvji R. M. S^hon.

NETHER SALTONSTALL, NEAR HALIFAX, ENGLAND

1 Watertowa, Haverhill

WATERTOWN, MASSACHITSETTS

rru"i".fi"'I1 '' T), endi I \ < R ck td •^alliif loll K irr dt Pri iSg- Kiidnrii H .1/. SniianjIaU, Eif.

THE OLD CHAPEL. OVER SALTONSTALL, \EAR HALIFAX, ENGLAND

1539 have been recorded forty-four marriages and one hundred and twenty baptisms
in the Saltonstall family.

The records in tliis country show that "Sir Richard Saltonstall, Rev. George
Phillips, and a goodly number of planters went up the Charles River four miles to
a place well watered" and settled their plantation just below the place where Mt.
Auburn is now situated and very near the home of the late James Russell Lowell.
Tiiis territory, the fourth settlement in the Colony, was first called "Sir Richard
Saltonstall's Plantation," but was later named Watertown by the Court, either on ac-
count of its natural features or, more probably, from a place by the name of Waterton
in England. Saltonstall was the first subscriber to the church covenant of Water-
town and he was also an original patentee of Connecticut with Lord Saye and Sele,
Lord Brooke and others. Saltonstall remained in Watertown only a short time, but
was always interested in the Colony, his two sons remaining there after he had left.
Saltonstall Square in Watertown was named after him in remembrance of all he did
for the settlement in its first days. President Quincy said of him that after Harvard
and Winthrop he was the next greatest benefactor of Harvard College. The Sal-
tonstall family had much to do with the Ipswich settlement and for five generations
lived in and helped Haverhill.

There is also a Watertown in Connecticut.

20S

WEYMOUTH, MASSACHUSETTS

''Cohasset for beauty,
Hingham for pride,
If not for its herring,
Weymouth had died."

THE chief feature of interest between the two Weymouths is the visit of
Judge Louis A. Cook to old Weymouth in 1914, to attend the unveiling of
the memorial that was placed there to John Endicott of Dorchester, Eng-
land, and Richard Clark, near the wharf from which they sailed, the former to
Salem, America, to become Governor of the Massachusetts Bay Colony, and the
latter, a *' most knowing pilot, ship master and adventurer," as he has been described,
to Newfoundland. Judge Cook, who was the delegate from South Weymouth, Mas-
sachusetts, was present at the luncheon before the ceremony. In the illustration
on the following page can be seen on the table three pairs of shoes which had been
brought by him from New England. During the course of his remarks he said that
the Massachusetts Weymouth was famous for its shoes and he had been deputed to
bring over to this ceremony these three pairs which were made in his town; one
pair he said jokingly was for the Mayoress and if they did not fit her, he declared
that the Mayor would have to go around the town and find, as in the tale of
Cinderella, a lady whom they would fit. The unveiling ceremony was performed
by Mrs. Joseph Chamberlain, who was the eighth lineal descendant of Governor
Endicott, and her stepson, Rt. Hon. Austen Chamberlain, M.P. The guests were
entertained at luncheon by the Mayor and Corporation, at the Gloucester Hotel,
which has many historical memories associated with it; it was once the residence
of King George HI; the peace of Amiens was discussed here; and within its walls
the King said farewell to Captain Hardy, one of Nelson's officers, just before the
battle of Trafalgar. After luncheon the Mayor and Corporation received Mrs.
Chamberlain and all the other guests on the site of the jetty from which Endicott
and Clark set out on their voyages to this country. Hon. Austen Chamberlain
spoke for Mrs. Chamberlain about the men who went to New England to found a
new commonwealth and of the great nation that had sprung up in the land they
had settled. He added that he hoped the account was not closed and that between
the United States and the mother land there might be an ever increasing interchange
of thought and kindly friendship and hospitality. Mrs. Chamberlain asked him to
express to the people that she prayed that the country where Endicott lived and to
which she had returned to make her home, and the country he had helped to establish,
on this hundredth anniversary of peaceful friendship, might now and in the time to
come forge fresh links of friendship forevermore. Mr. Chamberlain then took down
the British and American flags surrounding the memorial while the band played the
national anthems of the two countries. The memorial to John Endicott has been

WEYMOUTH, MASSACHUSETTS

placed on the stone column whicl

is shown in the accompanyini

picture, and the medallion

which is also pictured and whicl

b attached to the monument

bears the following inscription :—

In Memory of

RICH.\RD CLARK

Captain and Pilot of

Weymouth, who in 1583

sailed thence to join

Sir Humphrey Gilbert's

Voyage of discovery to

Newfoundland, and of

JOHN ENDICOTT

who on June 20, 1628,

set forth from Weymouth in

the ship "Abigail" on the

expedition which led to

the establishment of the

plantation at Salem,

Massachusetts.

Erected by Public

Subscription 1914.

in honour of Richard Clark and John Endicott.

Weymouth in this country was the first permanent settlement in Boston Har-
bour and is the second oldest town in Massachusetts, antedating Boston by at least
six years and, next to Plymouth, is the oldest colony in the State. It is also
often referred to as the "Alma Mater of Boston" for the reason that William
Blackstone, the first settler in Boston, came from Weymouth. The earliest pio-
neers in our Weymouth did not come from the town of the same name in England,
but many did come here the year after the first settlement of the town in 1623 by
Robert Gorges, son of Sir Ferdinando Gorges. At this time our Weymouth was
known as Wessagusset. Some years later Rev. Mr. Hall, who was bom in Somer-
setshire, sailed from Weymouth for this country, and it is mentioned in old Wey-
mouth that under date of March 20, 1635, "about one hundred people are recorded
as bound here," meaning America. Abigail (Smith) Adams was one of the original
settlers of our Weymouth and among other early comers we can mention the names
of Bursley, Jeffries and probably Ludden as having come over with Gorges. Some
years later the following well-known persons came over and set up their homes in
our Weymouth: Henry Adams, John Allen, Robert Abell, Stephen French, John
Glover, Edmond Hart, James Parker, Thomas Richards, Thomas Rawlins, Clement
Briggs, Richard Sylvester and Clement Weaver. The Weymouth Historical
Society in the Massachusetts town possesses some fine pictures of the English
Weymouth.

WEYMOUTH, MASSACHUSETTS 209

The town for which our Weymouth is named has often been called the English
Naples. It is situated in the county of Dorset on the south side of the river Wey,
from which it gets its name, which was originally derived from ** Waeye,'' meaning
" water " and "mud,'' being the Saxon word for "mouth of the river/' The town has
a fine harbour and has always been a commercial port; it is now also a great water-
ing-place. Into this attractive port the Roman Navy often found its way and
years later two ships of the Spanish Armada were brought here as prizes. The
earliest history of the town dates back to 938 a.d. in the time of King Athelstan,
the next mention of it in history being in the Saxon charter of King Ethelred. One
interesting incident occurred at the time King Philip of Spain was driven into the
harbour by a hurricane. John Russell, of Berwick House, knew Spanish so
well that he was chosen to act as interpreter for the royal party. King Henry was
informed of the unexpected arrival of the Spanish King and sent him an invitation
to visit him in London. Russell accompam'ed the visitor and made such a favor-
able impression on King Philip that the latter recommended him especially to the
EngUsh King. It happened later that Russell became a favorite with King
Henry's son, who created him Duke of Bedford, a name also closely associated
with our New Bedford.

WINCHESTER, MASSACHUSETTS

TEMPORARY memorial to the American soldiers who fell in the Great
War has been placed in the south aisle of the Cathedral in Winchester,
England, and the inscription reads as follows: —

This window and these panels have been reserved by the Dean and
Chapter for the dedication of a perpetual memorial to be erected by the
British Nation to those GALLANT AMERICANS who have given their
lives for the cause of freedom in the Great War 19 14- 191 .

A more permanent memorial in the form of a window is now being built in the
south aisle of the Cathedral. The ancient city of Winchester is a fitting place for
such a memorial because of the fact that one hundred thousand troops of the
American Expeditionary Forces came to the city from the nearby port of South-
ampton where they disembarked. It was at Winchester, too, that one of the
largest American rest camps was estabUshed, and an added inducement that
undoubtedly appealed to the British authorities in the selection of this site for a
memorial was the fact that five hundred and fifty-three of our brave soldiers, who
died of influenza, lie buried in the military cemetery on Morn Hill in Winchester.
A further appropriateness Ues in the fact that Winchester was at one time the
ancient capital of England and was the home of so many kings that it has often
been called *' Royal Winchester." Henry I here celebrated his marriage to Matilda
of Scotland and their son, William, was bom in this ancient city; Henry III was

WINCHESTER, MASSACHUSETTS

also bom here; Henry IV was
married here; Henry V received
here the Ambassador of Charles of
France; Henry VI often visited
here; Henry VII journeyed here
with his queen in order that his
chilfl should be born in England's
nld capital, and Henry VIII ^>ent
■d WLck here in 1522 and entertained
tlie Emperor Charles V of Austria.
King Edward III made Winches-
ter one of his ten staple towns for
wool and leather, with the idea of
reviving its prestige. Here also
Queen Mary entertained Phih'p,
I'rincc of Spain, previous to their
marriage; King James I was the
last king to reside in the castle.
It was during the reign of Henry
III that the city as a governing
center began to decline in impor-
tance, the chief reason being that
the treasury was transferred to
London. Outside the west gate of the city was situated the King's hawk-house,
in which falconers kept the birds in the days when falconry was so much indulged
in. Winchester was the home of Alfred the Great, and here he ruled wisely and
well for eighteen years; it was here that he wrote his Saxon Chronicles. It was
also in Winchester that the original Domesday Book was compiled and here it
was kept as long as the city was the capital of the kingdom. It may be also
claimed that Winchester was the cradle of the British Empire, for it was here
that King Alfred laid the foundations of the British Navy. It is also interesting
to mention that Sir Walter Raleigh was tried and imprisoned in Winchester before
his execution in London.

The Cathedral, of course, is the center of interest to visitors, and it will be re-
membered that Emerson thought it the most beautiful in England with the excep-
tion of York Minster, An attraction in the city is the house where Jane Austen
lived and died, her body being buried in the Cathedral. New Englanders will
be interested to know that the renowned Izaak Walton was also buried there.
Bishop Lawrence of our Boston preached officially in Winchester Cathedral in
the year 1920.

Like all mediaeval cities. Winchester was surrounded by a wall which was origi-

TEMPORARY MEMORIAL PLACED IN WIN-
CHESTER C.\THEDRAL, WINCHESTER,
ENGLAND,

who lost their livi

the

WINCHESTER, MASSACXTUSETTS

WINCHESTER CATHEDRAL, WINCHESTER, ENGLAND,
in nhich has recently been placed by the British Nation a memorial to the Americans who gave their lives
in the Great War. Winchester was the capital of England under Alfred the Great (849 a.d.). The cathe-
dral, built in the eleventh century, is the chief attraction in this ancient city.

nally Roman, but practically nothing of this remains intact. One of the gates
was changed to its present aspect by the Normans. It may also be mentioned
that the original municipal flag of the English city was presented to its American
namesake in Virginia during the latter part of 1919.

Our New England Winchester has taken an interest in the city of the same name
in England and the Public Library of our town has several times sent reports and
memoranda regarding its war activities, a number of letters in reply having been
■ received describing the large American War Camp near the English city.

Edward Converse, a staunch old Puritan, who came over in Winthrop's colony,
was the first settler of the territory now called Winchester, Massachusetts, having
built and occupied the first house here in 1640. This humble dwelling stood on
the site which many generations later was occupied by the Thompson estate, next
to the Post-ofiice. A "come mill," the first business establishment in Winchester,
was also built by this pioneer. This section of the coimtry, considered by the
dwellers along the seacoast as a "remote land," was at that time a wild, unsettled
part of Charlestown, called Waterfield, included in the original territory granted
to Charlestown in T633 by the General Court, After certain grants by the General
Court in 1640 the place was renamed " Charlestowne Village," On October 6,
1643, an act was passed by the General Court incorporating Wobum into a sepa<
rate town, the act reading, "Charlestowne Village is called Woobume," so that
much of the present territory of Winchester was a part of Wobum until 1850, when

WINCHESTER, MASSACHUSETTS

HOUSE IN WINCHESTER, ENGLAND, WHERE JANE AUSTEN LIVED AND DIED

the town was incorporated under its present name. The territory included in this
new township was taken from Woburn, Medford and West Cambridge (now
Arlington).

The early settlers in this section had a difficult time gaining a foothold in the
wilderness, some of them being obliged to burrow into the hillside to obtain their
first shelter. Included within the limits of the town was the farm of John Harvard,
the founder of Harvard College.

There is also a Winchester in Connecticut and one in New Hampshire.

WINDSOR
MAINE, NEW HAMPSHIRE, VERMONT, MASSACHUSETTS AND CONNECTICUT

WINDSOR is one of the popular names for towns in America and each of
the New England States, with the exception of Rhode Island, has a
place so called. The Connecticut town was named for the English
Windsor while the Massachusetts town was named for this early settlement in
Connecticut, having been called Gageborough in honour of General Gage of Revo-
lutionary fame until the year 1778. The Maine town was first called Malta and
later Gerry, and curiously enough was named for the English town by a Frenchman

214

WINDSOR, ME,. N. H., VT., MASS. and CONN.

called Anthony Coombs, the re;i:;oii for this name, therefore, being difficult to dis-
cover. The New Hampshire town is very small, having also received its name
from the Windsor in Connecticut, while the Vermont town derived its name in a
similar way.

The English town, from which all these places got their names either directly
or indirectly, is a municipal borough incorporated by Edward IV, situated on the
south bank of the Thames. The ancient name was Windelsora, meaning "the
winding shore" (or "winding waters near the Castle"). Windsor itself is chiefly
important on account of its Royal Castle which covers a tremendous area. It was
begun by William, enlarged b\' his son Henry, rebuilt to a large extent by Edward
m and further enlarged by many of the English monarchs since then. Within
the Royal Mausoleum are the tombs of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert, The
place is usually called New Windsor to distinguish it from Old Windsor, which is
about two miles away. In July, 1896, the Ancient and Honorable Artillery Com-
pany of Boston, as guests of the late Queen Victoria, were received very graciously
at Windsor Castle, where they were reviewed by the Queen and a large coterie of
her distinguished subjects. Nearby is the well-known Eton, with its school, situ-
ated on the river Thames.

WOBURN, MASSACHUSETTS

j4 T the time of the two hundred and fiftieth anniversary celebration of the
/\ city of Wobum, in 1892, a number of interchanges of messages took place
^ % with the Englbh Wobum and several officials of the latter were invited to
be present. During the exercises Rev. Edward G. Porter, of Lexington, who had
been a visitor to the old Wobum, told of his trip there, particularly mentioning
Wobum Abbey, in which, however, despite the name, there is no longer any trace
of a religious establishment. It stands in a park of 3,500 acres, enclosed by a
high brick wall, twelve miles in circuit, and the old fish-ponds of the monks are now
beautiful sheets of water enlivened by ducks and swans, while herds of deer may be
seen quietly grazing over the sloping lawns. The portrait-galleries of this Abbey
are famous and include paintings by Titian, Van Dyck, Rubens, Rembrandt,
Tenicrs, Murillo and others. Mr. Porter was so interested in this fine collection
that, at his request, the Duke of Bedford, who owned Wobum Abbey, presented
catalogues of his collection to the public libraries of Wobum, Lexington and Bed-
ford, in America. Judge Edward F. Johnson, of the Massachusetts Wobum,
visited the mother town and its Abbey in 1879. He was treated with great hos-
pitality by Hon. George Russell, M.P., and upon his return home he wrote an
account of his visit which was afterwards published in England and resulted in a
very cordial letter from a member of the Russell family.

Old Wobum, or Wouboume as it was once called, dates from Saxon times, and

WOBURN, MASSACHUSETTS

, 0/ ff'oABf

/»J,f Eda^rd F. Mkk

WOBURN ABBEY, WOBURN, ENGLAND
The seat of the Russell family, which has talten a great interest in Wobum, Massachusetts.

although little is known of its early history, it was chosen for the site of an abbey
in the twelfth century, when fourteen monks took up their residence there and
gave much attention to the mill facilities that were offered by the brooks.
In the reign of Henry VIII, on the dissolution of the monasteries, the Abbey
reverted to the crown. When this monarch came to the throne he gave the
estate to John Russell, who was created Earl of Bedford. The latter'3 successors,
up to the year 1892, had included four Earls and ten Dukes. The famous Wobum
Abbey is now the seat of the Duke of Bedford.

Previous to the introduction of railways, Wobum, Bedfordshire, was a great
center for stages and was a larger and busier town than it b at the present time.
To-day its nearest railway station is known as Woburn Sands, which is some three
miles distant from the town itself and about forty miles from London.

There are three places in England from which it was thought for some time
that the Massachusetts Wobum might have derived its name: Wobum in Bed-
fordshire, Woo-bum in Bucks Coimty and 0-bum in Dorset, all three spellings
having been used by the earliest settlers of the Massachusetts town. It is rather
remarkable, as Mr. Porter says, "that not one of the first sixty towns in the colony
received an Indian name, and only one or two were honored with Scripture names.

WOBURN, MASSACHUSETTS

TOWN HALL AND GEORGE STREET, WOBURN, ENGLAND

although the Puritan element was then so strong." It is also an interesting fact
that no other town in America bears the name of Woburn, so far as we can learn.
There is no contemporary record which explains the naming of our Wobum,
but it is now known definitely that it derived its name from Wobum, Bedfordshire,
and was so named by Captain Edward Johnson, the "father" of the town, in honour
of his friend, Major-Gen, Robert Sedgwick, who was bom in the Bedfordshire
town. Sedgwick came to this country in 1635, was one of the earliest settlers in
Charlestown and commander for several years of the Andent and Honorable
Artillery Company, of which both he and Johnson were charter members. Sedg-
wick was abo at one time commander of the Castle. He was a neighbor of John-
son's in Charlestown, and in his famous book entitled "Wonder-working Providence
of Sion's Saviour in New England" Johnson refers to Sedgwick in eulogistic tenns,
calling him "stout and active in all feats of war, nurst up in Londons Artillery
garden, and furthered with fifteen years experience in N. E. exact theory, besides
the help of a very good head-piece." In his first mention of Sedgwick in the
Wobum Town Records, Johnson calls him "Noble Captain Sedgwick;" and
Sedgwick's part in the work of exploring the land for the settlement of the town,
and the influential position he held in deciding upon its present site, are also set
forth by Johnson in the first volume of the Wobum Records. Sedgwick, however,
never lived in Wobum and apparently never intended to. Johnson was its first

WOBURN, MASSACHUSETTS 217

town clerk, the chairman of its first Board of Selectmen and the first deputy from
Wobum to the General Court, and his leadership and influence were such in all
matters relating to the organization and government of the new town that he would
naturally have had the say as to its name. In recognition of the nativity of his
distinguished friend, he chose the name of Woburn; and, at the General Court
holden in Boston September 27 (October 7, n.s.), 1642, it was ordered

'*That Charlestowne Village is called Wooborne."

It may be interesting to mention that Charles Goodyear, the inventor of the
process of vulcanizing India rubber, lived in our Woburn as early as 1835 in a house
now standing, in that part of Woburn called Montvale; he was at that time poor
and unknown, and it was while warming himself one cold night in the village store
that his great idea occurred to him. In Woburn also was born Benjamin Thompn
son, afterwards made Count Rumford, who became a famous philosopher and
scientist, known throughout Europe. John Fiske, the historian, in his History of
the United States, says that Rumford was the greatest scientist America has pro-
duced, and it is as a scientist that he is honoured in his native town. In 1784, he
was knighted by the King of England, and in 1791 was created a Count of the
Holy Roman Empire by the Elector of Bavaria. He chose the title of Rumford in
honour of Rumford, now Concord, New Hampshire, with which town his wife's
family was prominently identified in the days of the early settlement. Count
Rumford was founder, with a large endowment, of the Rumford Medal of the
American Academy of Arts and Sciences, and of the Rumford Professorship in
Harvard College. In an article published in the Youth's Companion^ August 26,
1920, the late President Dr. Maclaurin of the Massachusetts Institute of Tech-
nology gives an interesting account of some of Rumford 's inventions and experi-
ments — ''experiments that set the scientific world thinking and working in the
right direction."

A statue of Rumford was erected on the lawn of the Wobum Public Library in
1900, the inscription on the pedestal, prepared by President Charles W. Eliot of
Harvard College, reading in part: —

THE EARUEST

SCIENTIFIC PHILANTHROPIST

HE PROVED THAT HEAT IS MOTION

AND HAD A GUMPSE

OF THE GREAT DOCTRINE

KNOWN LATER AS

THE CONSERVATION OF ENERGY

The house in which Rumford was bom is still standing in North Wobum and
is owned and maintained as a museum of local antiquities by the Rumford Histori-
cal Association, organized and incorporated in 1877 for that purpose.

In North Wobum there is a statue of Loammi Baldwin, a contemporary and

2i8 WOBURN, MASSACHUSETTS

lifelong friend of Rumford, 1 he inscription states briefly his career, mentioning
also the fact that he was one of the proprietors and a principal constructor of the
Middlesex Canal, the lirst sht-ritT of Middlesex County, and then recording that

he was

l>sKaiNAT0B OF THE APPLE
!N HONOR OF HIM CALLED

THE BALDWIN

ll-i! PROCEEDED FROM A TBFK

.1H[|;1\ALLY GROWING WILD

AHUUT TWO MILES NORTH

OF THIS MONITMENT

m

;o near ^^M
ilming- ^H

The Runiford Historical A>siic:ialion erected a monument some years ago
Chestnut Street (,former!y BuUers Row) in that part of old Wobum now Wilming-
ton, ilassachusctts, to mark the site of this original Baldwin apple tree.

It may be interesting also to mention that ancestors of Presidents Pierce, Har-
rison and Cleveland are buried in the old cemetery on Park Street in Woburn,
while North Woburn has the distinction not only of being the birthplace of Count
Rumford and of Col. Loammi Baldwin, but is also proud of the fact that it is the
home of Cirover Cleveland's lirst American ancestors.

In its Library building, Woburn possesses one of Richardson's masterpieces of
architecture and on the walls of the reading-room is a collection of views of Wobum
Abbey.

The citizens of Woburn still take a great interest in the mother town, and several
of them have visited there in recent years.

YORK, MAINE

YORK, Maine, may well be proud of the source from which she received her
name, for that ancient cathedral city in Yorkshire on the banks of the
Ouse, with its quaint and narrow streets, is most attractive and appeals
to people of almost every taste. One of the lanes is called the Shambles and it
is so narrow that neighbors on opposite sides can shake hands from the upper floors;
there is another street in the city called Wliipmawhopmagate, so named because
it was the boundary for the public whipping of delinquents at the cart tail, a prac-
tice used even on women at one time. According to legendary history, York was
founded about looo b.c. by a Northumbrian king who christened it "Ehauricus."
One thousand years later, authentic history records this city as being in the hands
of the conquering Romans, who called it "Eboracum." Its present name of
York is thought to be a possible contraction of the name "Jorvick," which was
given to it during Danish occupancy. With the second campaign of Agricola in
79 A.D., the history of York is clearly defined and soon afterwards we learn that the