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SERIES.

THE

TUBEROUS BEGONIA,

ITS HISTORY AND CULTIVATION.

1888,

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THE LATE RICHARD PEARCE.
Introducer of the Tuberous Begonia.

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THE

TUBEROUS BEGONIA,

ITS HISTORY AND CULTIVATION.

BY CONTRIBUTORS TO "THE GARDENING WORLD."

EDITED BY B. WYNNE, F.R.H.S.,

MANAGER OF "THE GARDENING WORLD," MEMBER OF THE FLORAL COMMITTEE OF THE
ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY, HONORARY MEMBER OF THE CERCLE
D'ARBORICULTURE DE BELGIQUE, &c.

GARDENING WORLD OFFICE, 17, CATHERINE STREET, STRAND, W.C.

1888.

H. M. POLLETT & Co.,

HORTICULTURAL AND GENERAL STKAM PRINTERS,

FANN STREET, LONDON, B.C.

" -

PREFACE.

THE Proprietors of THE GARDENING WORLD having decided to issue a series
of popular books on subjects directly connected with gardening, and which,
while published at popular prices, shall be of an essentially practical and
useful character, we selected as the subject for the first volume of the
series the Tuberous-rooted Begonia, first, on account of its remarkably
popular character as a garden flower, and secondly, because we felt there
was a want of a useful guide to its cultivation and further improvement.
As to how far in the present treatise we have met that want, we must
leave the generous flower-loving public to decide.

While aiming in the main to be practical, we have endeavoured to give
some additional interest to the "work by recording so much of the history
of the modern Begonia as we have been able to glean, and though very
imperfect as this portion of our subject undoubtedly is, we would fain hope
that it may prove of some value as a basis for a record more completely
worthy of the subject. For many of the facts relating to the history of the
earlier varieties, and for the whole of the illustrations of the same, we are
indebted to the courtesy of Messrs. James Veitch and Sons, to whom the
honour belongs of having laid the foundation of a race of plants which Mr. Laing
and others have brought to such marvellous perfection. To Messrs. Cannell and
Sons our thanks are also due for the use of several of the woodcuts which
we have selected to illustrate some of the modejn types of the flower ; and we
desire also to tender our best thanks to Mr. W. E. Gumbleton— one of the
first amateurs to recognise the merits of "the coming flower" — for many
valuable hints ; and to Mr. B. C. Ravenscroft, for the cultural articles
which constitute the greater portion of the work.

B. W.

JULY, 1888.

TABLE OF CONTENTS.

PAGE
Introduction ... 1

A BRIEF SKETCH OF THE BEGONIA FAMILY.

Number of species— Essential characters of the genus — Interesting excep-
tions to the general characteristics — Behaviour under cultivation — The
genus Hildebrandia 10

HISTORY OF THE TUBEROUS BEGONIA.

The species from which the modern race has been obtained — The first

garden Hybrid— List of Hybrids raised by Messrs. Veitch — Hybrids

raised by Messrs. O'Brien, Bull, Sutton and others— The Forest Hill

Strain — The Swanley Collection — The Continental Seedlings — The
introducer of the Tuberous Begonias ... ... ... ... ... ... 14

PROPAGATION OF THE BEGONIA.

By Seeds— Preparing the Pans and sowing the Seeds — Treatment after
germination— Transplanting into Boxes or Trays — Potting on and
Subsequent Treatment— By Cuttings— Leaf Cuttings 34

CULTIVATION OF THE BEGONIA IN POTS.

Selecting and starting the Tubers— Compost for the first Potting, Watering,
&c.— The Second Potting — A few more words about Compost — Open-
Stages, Watering, Damping, &c.— The Third Potting, Temperature,
Ventilation, &c. — Treatment when in bloom— After Flowering .'.. ... 46

DOUBLE-FLOWERING BEGONIAS.

The march of improvement — The variety of form— The erect-flowering
section— Potting and Composts, &c. — Hints on Propagation 56

TABLE OF CONTENTS.

BEGONIAS FOR EXHIBITION. PAGE

Suitable Composts— Heat, Moisture and Shading — Feeding with Artificial
Manure— Hints on Packing .for Travelling 67

BEGONIAS FOR LATE AUTUMN FLOWERING.
Their early treatment— Management in Autumn ... 71

THE NEW RACE OF WINTER-FLOWERING BEGONIAS.

Begonia socotrana — Characteristics of the first crosses — The first Hybrid
raised — The latest varieties 74

BEGONIAS FOR BEDDING-OUT.

Small v. large plants— Starting the Tubers— Preparing the Beds and plant-
ing— Arrangement of the plants — Suitable plants for combinations —
Preserving the Tubers in winter— Fibrous-rooted varieties 79

SEED SAVING AND HYBRIDISATION.

The properties of a Single Begonia— The points of a Double Begonia — How
and when to manipulate the blooms — Natural fertilisation —Artificial
fertilisation — Marking the Crosses — Gathering the Seeds — Selecting the
flowers for crossing — Hybridising double flowers — The first Double varieties 86

THE BEST FORM OF BEGONIA HOUSE 100

SELECTIONS OF VARIETIES 102

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

PORTRAITS.

PAGE

The late Mr. RICHARD PBARCB Frontispiece

Mr. JOHN LAING, Forest Hill 25

Mr. HENRY CANNELL, Swanley 29

SPECIES AND VARIETIES OF BEGONIAS.
Species printed in italics.

B. Acme ... ... ... ... ... ... 35

B. boliviensis ... ... ••• 15

B. CameUia 89

B. Chelsoni 33

B. Davisii 21

B. Emperor .,. ... ... ... ... 37

B. Felix Crousse 59

B. Glow 61

B. intermedia ... ... ... • 31

B. John Heal 77

B. Mr. Poe 45

B. M. Truffaut 65

B. Queen of Whites 39

B. Queen Victoria ... ... 27

B. roaoBflora 19

B. Rosamonde 63

B. Rose Celeste 87

B. socotrana.,. ... ... 75

B. Sedeni 23

B. Veitchii 17

B. virginalis ... ... 57

The Tuberous Begonia,

ITS HISTORY AND CULTIVATION.

TfJHE Tuberous-rooted Begonia— so called after M. Begon, a French
slT botanist— though for some years subsequent to its introduction into
^° this country in its original form but little esteemed, except perhaps
to some extent as a cariosity, has of late years developed, under
cultivation, so many valuable qualities, has proved itself to be possessed
of so extraordinary a capability for improvement in almost every respect, and
consequently is annually gaining in popularity by such long and rapid strides,
that little doubt can be entertained that in the immediate future it will be
cultivated in numbers approaching, if not absolutely equalling, those to
which the Zonal Pelargonium has already attained. A duration of flowering
extending continuously over a period of five or six months, and a range of
colour embracing every imaginable shade of white, rose, pink, red, scarlet,
crimson, lake, orange, and yellow, combined with the richest and most delicate
tints, are no mean advantages to start with. , And when to these are added
a nearly perfect adaptability to almost any kind of culture— whether planted
out-of-doors, or grown in pots, boxes or baskets, in the open air or under
glass, with artificial heat or without, the power of withstanding apparently
uninjured the extremes of wet and stormy weather, or of tropical heat and
drought, a hardiness enabling the roots to endure*, uninjured in the open
ground the severity of ordinary English winters, except perhaps in cold or wet
soils— an unequalled capacity for being stored in large numbers without the
aid of glass, and in a very small space— and, above all, the capability of being
improved in every point that constitutes a first-class decorative subject to
an extent up to the present time almost incredible, and still far from being
fathomed or determined, as well as an extraordinary profuseness and persist-
ence of bloom, the flowers in most cases being also remarkable for size and
showiness — who can say what future may be in store for such a plant, or
what other denizen of our gardens and greenhouses can lay or substantiate a
claim to so many advantages ?

With the single exception of the Zonal Pelargonium there is no other

2 THE TUBEROUS BEGONIA.

plant, in the entire range of exotics, that can compare with the Begonia,
either in regard to its capability for producing a gorgeous display of rich
and varied colour, when grown in masses, or as a thoroughly useful and easily-
cultivated decorative subject. Anyone who has visited the show houses of
Messrs. John Laing and Sons, at Forest Hill, or of Messrs. Cannell and
Sons, at Swanley, when in the height of perfection, will readily admit the
former proposition ; and those who attempt the culture of this plant, under
conditions at all suitable, whether indoors or out, will very shortly agree to
the latter, if they have not already done so.

In our opinion, nothing in the entire floral treasury can possibly surpass in
effect a mass or large houseful of the choicest varieties of Zonal Pelargonium,
both single and double, when skilfully grown in pure air, and just in per-
fection ; but a collection of modern Begonias, under similar circumstances,
will run them very close indeed, even as regards the production of large and
dense masses of rich colour ; while in quaintness and variety of form, habit,
and colour, the Begonia might fairly be awarded the palm. Undeniably the
Zonal Pelargonium is possessed of a few advantages that the Begonia lacks.
For instance, the former will, under favourable conditions, continue to bloom
throughout the winter, or, indeed, at any season of the year, and is therefore
valuable as affording brightness, or a supply of flowers for cutting, at a time
when bloom of any kind is scarce and welcome ; while, though the Tuberous
Begonia may, by starting the tubers early in the year, and growing them in
a genial warmth, be got into flower by the month of May, or even April,
and by the use of late-potted seedlings, or plants taken up from the open
ground, be induced to prolong their season of beauty up to about Christmas-
tide, yet, during the three or four months between these times, the roots
demand a season of rest, and we must for the time be content to dispense
with their presence. The new race of winter-flowering Begonias, however,
which has been obtained by crossing Begonia socotrana with some of the
summer- flowering varieties, promises ere long to give a plant that will carry
on the flowering season right through the winter.

Again, the blooms of the Zonal Pelargonium — especially of the double-
flowering forms — are undeniably much better adapted for cutting, and more
particularly when the flowers have to be packed, or to travel any distance, and
therefore become a more saleable commodity. At the same time, Begonia
blooms, either single or double, are considerably more suitable for cutting,
and useful when cut, than is generally imagined, and if they can be used on
the spot, or very carefully carried, are really very valuable and effective for
this purpose, and last a considerable time in water; but the delicate waxy
petals are soon bruised and disfigured by any rough handling. The erect-
flowering varieties are exceedingly useful in making up choice bouquets, and
in specimen glasses, button-holes, etc., while the drooping kinds come in
admirably in filling epergnes, and other methods of table decoration.

INTRODUCTION. 6

The propagation of the Begonia, either by means of cuttings or from seed,
is a delicate and tedious or uncertain operation, compared with the ease with
which Pelargonium cuttings may be rooted in quantity by the merest tyro.
On the other hand, Pelargoniums must be wintered in a properly constructed
and efficiently heated glasshouse, must receive daily attention, and occupy a
large amount of space ; whereas, in the case of Begonias, all such care and
expense is entirely unnecessary, and a hundred — nay, a thousand Begonia roots
may be stored in the space occupied by a dozen Pelargoniums ; and more than
this, any out-of-the-way place or odd corner, such as under a greenhouse stage,
or in a shed, or kitchen cupboard even — provided frost is thoroughly excluded
— will afford all the accommodation they need. Throughout the whole winter
all the attention they require is to be looked over two or three times, picking
out any decayed tubers, and seeing that they are neither in danger of rotting
from damp, nor of shrivelling from excessive dryness. In warm and sheltered
localities, or on light, dry soils, the roots may even be allowed to remain in
the ground all winter with perfect safety, if well established. Even severe
frost will not injure them under such conditions, if not too near the surface,
though in any case it is advisable to cover each plant or row with a few
inches depth of ashes, or coco-nut fibre refuse.

The improvements that have been effected in this flower, by means of
skilful and persevering hybridisation, since it first attracted attention, are
simply marvellous, and undeniably no other flowering plant in cultivation
has made such rapid and wonderful strides, or undergone such remarkable
changes for the better in so short a time, as Tuberous Begonias. Indeed,
anyone who had not watched the progress that has year by year and step by
step been made, would scarcely credit that the huge circular and leathery
blooms of to-day, with their glowing or dazzling colours, could by any possi-
bility have been derived from the poor pale, flimsy, and long-petalled flowers
that the Begonias of ten or twelve years ago could produce. It must,
however, be admitted that some of the first seedlings raised in this country,
such as "Vesuvius," "Acme," "Emperor," etc., were, and still are, remark-
ably floriferous in character — much more so than the majority of the large-
flowering varieties that have been more recently produced — as well as being
more bushy in growth, and possessed of great hardiness and very vigorous
constitutions, when compared with some of the highly-bred productions of the
present day. Indeed, the varieties above named, with a few others of the
same class, are still retained by first-class cultivators, who endeavour, by
crossing them with varieties possessing larger and better formed flowers and
brighter colours, to obtain a race of hybrids, suitable for out-of-door culti-
vation, which will combine the good qualities of both strains. As a matter
of fact, this object has already to a great extent been attained, and there are
now a number of single varieties bearing fairly large and brightly-coloured
flowers in almost, if not quite, as great profusion as old-fashioned kinds to

4 THE TUBEROUS BEGONIA.

which we have referred, and also possessing such vigorous constitutions as to
enable them to be propagated from cuttings, perfectly true to type, on a large
scale and with great success. This is saying a great deal, for nineteen out
of twenty Begonias deteriorate so rapidly when increased in this manner as
to become in a short time almost worthless. But even were this rule abso-
lute, we can always fall back upon seedlings, which have far more vigour
than plants raised from cuttings ; and it is now a noticeable and proved fact
that seed saved from a distinct and strongly characterised class of plants,
such as the above, will produce a large proportion possessing all the desirable
qualities of the parents, combined in varying degree ; while a judicious
system of selection will eliminate any stragglers, and ensure the continua-
tion, and probably the advancement, of the type.

The value of Begonias as bedding-out plants, though beginning to be recog-
nized by a few, is very far indeed from being appreciated to a tithe of its
actual extent. The result of employing these elegant plants in this capacity
is, when carried out in a tolerably judicious and suitable manner, always so
highly satisfactory in every respect, that their general adoption for the pur-
poses of the decoration of the flower garden is only a matter of time. Indeed,
they have already gained a considerable footing in many districts where a fair
trial has been given them ; and among these may be mentioned such widely
separated localities as some parts of Devonshire (where Begonias succeed
amazingly well, and give little or no trouble), the Highlands of Scotland, and
the extreme eastern counties of England. In Devonshire very good Begonias are
now to be seen in a high degree of perfection, not only in the gardens of the
rich, and those who take a strong interest in the advancement of horticulture,
but in many cottage and farm-house gardens as well, where they seem to be
equally at home, and equally appreciated. In some of the eastern counties,
again, these Begonias are made a speciality in many gardens ; while in Scot-
land, among other places, they have been introduced, and are now extensively
cultivated with the greatest success in the gardens of Drummond Castle in
Perthshire, at New Tarbat in Ross-shire, and at Culloden in Inverness-shire ;
and also in several instances in the Carse o'Gowrie.

Seedlings raised in good time, and planted out early in June, though they
do not come into full bloom until rather late, and attain no great size, make
a fine display of bright and varied colour during August, September, and even
October of the same year as well, when the latter month assumes the calm and
genial character which in many seasons renders it almost the most enjoy'able
month of the year — at least in country places, and to the lover of ' ' rural sights
and sounds." In support of this fact may be instanced the appearance of Messrs.
John Laing and Son's nursery beds, the main quarter of which this year contains
112,000 seedlings. Tubers one, two, or more years old are, however, naturally
more satisfactory than seedlings/ as they not only commence flowering much
earlier in the season, but form much more floriferous and bushy, as well as larger,

INTRODUCTION. 5

plants. The single-flowering varieties are undoubtedly much more suitable
for out-of-door decoration than the doubles, the blooms of which, especially
in the case of the more improved kinds, are not produced with sufficient
rapidity, nor remain so long on the plant ; so that they become to some
extent disfigured by the weather before their natural span of life is nearly
completed. Either in masses of harmoniously-arranged or contrasted colours,
as single specimens (as a centre in small beds, or in other similar positions),
for which rather large plants are naturally best adapted, or dotted here and
there with more or less regard to uniformity in mixed, or even herbaceous
borders (in which position they afford an excellent contrast to plants of other
character or habit), the Tuberous Begonia is simply an invaluable subject,
and invariably creates a fine effect. The more commonly cultivated varieties
with droopina flowers are exceedingly graceful and admirable ; but a class has
recently been produced, by careful selection, of stiffer habit, bearing flowers
held more or less erect, which of course present themselves more fully to the
eye of a spectator than plants possessing only pendulous blooms can do.

By far the most valuable characteristic of the Begonia, when employed as a
bedding-out plant, is its remarkable power of withstanding the influence of
extremes of weather and climate. In this respect it possesses a great advantage
over the Pelargonium, which, however brilliant and beautiful it may be when
in good condition, needs very special weather to enable it to develope its capa-
bilities to the full, when planted out of doors in our uncertain English climate ;
while the Begonia pursues the even tenor of its way all through the season,
come sunshine or shower, heat or cold ; and not only looks up to all appearance
refreshed and invigorated, instead of bruised and battered, after a storm of wind
and rain, but seems equally unaffected by a long period of tropical heat and
drought, provided only that its roots are working in a stratum of rich and
comparatively moist earth below the surface. The Begonia is also devoid of
the serious tendency of the Zonal Pelargonium to "run to leaf" in wet and
sunless seasons. As long as growth continues it produces a truss of bloom at
every joint, which never fails to expand if the temperature is moderately high.
Sudden changes from hot to cold weather alone seem to have an injurious
effect, sometimes causing a portion of the buds to drop before expanding. In
the cold wet summers we experienced four or five years ago, Begonias outside
looked as bright and fresh as possible all through the season ; and again during
the intense heats of the last summer the plants seemed literally to luxuriate
in the tropical blaze, and flowered with exceptional freedom, so long as there
was a supply of moisture about the roots, causing the beds to produce the
effect of solid sheets of dazzling bloom.

The scarlet and crimson shades, which naturally predominate in a good class
of these plants, are, of course, more effective, either in the open air or under
glass, than the quieter and more subdued colours. Many of the varieties now in
cultivation, of varying tints of these bright or deep reds, are so dazzlingly

6 THE TUBEROUS BEGONIA.

brilliant in hue as quite to equal, if not surpass, the colours of the finest Zonal
Pelargoniums in existence, and a mass of such flowers viewed under the
influence of bright sunshine presents a broad effect of rich and solid colour as
can scarcely be equalled by any other means. Again, the white-flowered varieties,
which are now exceedingly pure in colour, and have been vastly improved not
only in habit but in every other respect, compared with what they were a very
few years ago — the delicate pink shades, the purplish-crimsons, with other fine
tints, and, above all, the more or less pure yellow blooms — are a welcome
addition to our parterres and borders, and will generally be found to flower
as freely as the commoner red and scarlet sections.

Among many other arrangements one of the most taking combinations
consists of a careful, but seemingly careless and natural, grouping of several
varieties of ornamental-foliaged sub-tropical subjects, with a fevg Fuchsias or
other flowering plants, and Begpnias of various colours. For instance, take a
few plants each of Castor- Oil (Ricinus), Cannas, Japanese Maize, Perilla,
Amaranthus, Abutilons, and Nicotianas, with perhaps a Dracaena or Palm or
two, and a few Fuchsias, yellow Calceolarias or the like, and arrange them
carefully in a circular or other suitably-shaped bed, with a dozen or so of
Begonias of various colours and height, some large old specimens being placed
among the taller occupants of the centre or back portion of the bed or border,
with the smaller and dwarfer examples towards the front or edge ; and if the
whole is well done and the colours, etc., judiciously contrasted, a most beautiful
effect will be produced. It is not desirable to arrange the various plants so
as to produce a too-regular gradation in height, for a much better result is
attained by allowing here and there a tall Begonia or Fuchsia to rise well above
dwarfer Amaranthus, Calceolarias, or the like ; or a graceful Dracfpna or
Grevillea here and there to break the monotony of a group or ring of low-
growing Begonias. This portion of the subject will, however, be dealt with
more fully in another chapter.

In filling hollows in rustic stumps of trees, or ornamental flower-stands,
vases, etc., these Begonias are exceedingly useful and effective, usually flourish-
ing remarkably in such positions. As a rule, single varieties are most suitable
for this and ;kindred purposes, and where the plant is on a level with, or
above the average level of the eye, drooping-flowered kinds give the best
effect. Foi hanging baskets, either in or out of doors they are equally
well adapted, and in this case only those of drooping habit should be em-
ployed. Some of the free-growing and profusely-flowering doubles are very
effective as basket plants in the greenhouse or conservatory. Wherever Begonias
are employed in any of the above methods in the open air, it is note -worthy
that the situation can scarcely be too sunny to suit them, if only the roots
are kept well supplied with moisture ; whereas, under glass, they seem to
endure but a very moderate amount of summer sunshine without injury.
At the same time, plants in the open air, especially when on elevated posi-

INTRODUCTION. - 7

tions, will succeed to perfection in a shaded situation, if the shade is nat
too heavy or dense.

Begonias raised from seed do not, as a rule, exceed about 1 foot in height
the first year, if planted out of doors in a fairly open situation. The second
season they will probably attain a height of about 18 inches, or, perhaps,
rather more, and will annually increase in size up to about the fourth year,
when they may attain a height of 3 feet or so. These figures may be taken
subject to considerable variation, according to the character of the individual
plant, the situation, and general treatment. When grown under glass, the
above heights will probably be exceeded considerably, especially should light
or ventilation not be sufficiently abundant.

The fact that no kind of insect-pest seems to have any particular pre-
dilection for the Begonia is a point greatly in its favour, and one which
will go a long way to ensure its popularity, as it naturally renders its culture
so much simpler, and often less expensive. During an experience of some
years we have never seen these plants affected by anything but a few small
aphides, and on still fewer occasions Vy a little thrip on the under side of the
leaves. In every ca?e this was distinctly traceable to neglect or bad manage-
ment in some form, and the insects are always easily removeable. Red-spider
never seems to touch them, and so far only one kind of disease is known to
affect them, which is of a fungoid character, and causes the stems *r leaves to
assume a brown scaly appearance, and to become very brittle. This, however,
is directly caused by too high a temperature, with an insufficient amount of
ventilation, and in some cases assisted by a want of cleanliness in the house,
and a lack of the necessary amount of moisture at the root. Plants in the
open air, as well as those grown in a cool and airy structure, are never
affected by it. We believe this affection to be identical, or nearly so, with
the Gloxinia disease, and it exercises a similarly crippling effect upon the
growth of the plant once it has obtained a good hold. The only cure is a
preparation of sulphur ; but this seems to be ineffectual after a certain stage
has been reached.

The double-flowering forms of the Tuberous-rooted Begonia are, in their
way, equally valuable with the single varieties, and quite as deserving of
attention ; indeed, for some purposes even more so. They are not as a rule
so well adapted for out-door cultivation ; but when well grown in a suitable
glass structure are even more beautiful and unique than the singles. On the
whole, the constitution of the double kinds of Begonia is not so robust as
that of the singles, though great improvements have recently been made in
this respect ; and, like most other double-flowering plants, they require greater
care and skill to bring them to the highest state of perfection than the single
forms, and in some points, slightly different treatment. On this account
we have thought it best to treat of this class in a separate chapter (see p. 56).
When really well done, in good health, and in suitable quarters, these

8 THE TUBEROUS BEGONIA.

double flowers remain in beauty longer than those of almost any other plant,
OrChids alone excepted. We have frequently noticed blooms on some plants
of double-flowering Begonias to last and remain in good condition on the
plant for at least three or four weeks, and in some cases for even a longer
time than this. The buds, particularly of the very large and fully double
varieties, open very slowly, expanding by often barely perceptible degrees
from day to day ; and when fully developed, they do not, as the single kinds
are rather apt to do, drop off unexpectedly, but remain upon the stalk until
petal by petal they wither away.

The improvements that have been effected since their first introduction are
even more extraordinary in this section than in the case of the single
forms. We can distinctly remember some of the first double Begonias that
were raised. Certainly they were far from beautiful, and it can scarcely be
wondered that for a long time so little attention was paid to them. The
blooms were then about 1^ or barely 2 inches in diameter, mostly only semi-
double or little more, and consisting of a few narrow-pointed flimsy petals
of a dull red, or sickly pink colour, while the habit of the plant was still
worse, the growth being in some cases a yard long or thereabout, with
small and scanty foliage, and often crowned by no more than one or two
forlorn-looking blooms— a spectacle of pity. Still, they were double, and bit
by bit have been improved in size, shape, colour, and in the number of
petals, as well as in habit and growth, until at the present time a well-
grown double Begonia, of a really good variety, is about as beautiful an object
as the most ardent horticulturist or amateur could desire to behold, or as
could be met with in the whole range of floral beauty. The very largest
double blooms are often of some shade of pink, frequently with a white
centre, though the largest blooms are generally of a soft bright red. The
double whites, if pure, are generally of only a moderate size, though many of
the blush and cream-coloured flowers are large, and some blooms among the
rich red and crimson shades are now of immense size, the largest being
found among the pseony-flowered section. Double yellows up to the present
time have been comparatively scarce, but fine new varieties are now making
their appearance in greater numbers.

Among the double Begonias, we have now whites as snowy and pure in
colour, as double, and nearly as perfect in form as a Camellia (see p. 89),
an infinite number of shades of blush, rose, pink, orange, and many other
similar shades, as well as rich scarlet and crimson flowers ; and though in
these darker shades we cannot quite equal the brilliant and glowing tints
of some of the newest" and best single varieties, yet the attainment of this
'perfection of colouring is only a matter of time. Most of the yellow and-
orange- coloured doubles have a decided tendency to produce erect flowers,
much more so, we think, than those of any other shade. This peculiarity is
also distinctly noticeable in the single kinds. These and other late produc-

INTRODUCTION. 9

tions in yellow- flowered doubles may be said to bring this section nearly on
a level with the varieties of other and more common colours. As those we
saw last year were mostly the produce of plants only a few months old,
they will probably be much finer this season, for double Beponias do not,
as a rule, do much more than show their character the first year, and it
is on one and two-year-old plants that the largest and finest blooms are
produced.

The Tuberous Begonia can unfortunately hardly be classed as a good town
plant, smoky or impure air having too often the effect of causing the yet
unopened or just expanding buds to drop off. Still, many of the more
robust and free- flowering single varieties may be cultivated with a fair
amount of success in all but the worst situations ; and in most suburban
gardens, where light and free air are tolerably abundant, very good results
indeed are to be obtained by the exercise of a little care and skill. To all
growers residing in or near large towns, however, we would strongly recom-
mend the adoption of seedling plants in preference to named kinds, which
require the most favourable conditions to ensure success. The double forms
are even more susceptible of the effects of an impure atmosphere than the
single kinds, and their culture should as a rule only be attempted where the
surroundings are comparatively favourable — we mean as regards light, space,
and absence of smoke. But to enable this flower to attain the full height of
perfection, and develope all its grand and gorgeous capabilities, it is neces-
sary to transport it to some fresh and open country place, where it can
receive the benefit of a sweet and pure atmosphere, and clear and un-
obstructed light. Under these conditions it presents itself in quite a new-
aspect, and with even ordinary care developes a sturdiness and vigour, as well
as extraordinary floriferousness, of the plant itself; and a size, brilliancy3
and persistency of bloom and petal as to somewhat surprise those who have
only seen or grown it under less favourable circumstances, and at once to
settle any doubts as to its rightful claim to a place in the very first
rank of decorative plants.

10 THE TUBEROUS BEGONIA.

A BRIEF SKETCH OF THE BEGONIA
FAMILY.

?HE Begonia family consists of some 350 or more species, -which are being
added to from time to time as new discoveries are made. It consists
of two genera, but with one exception all are species of Begonia, and are
distributed through tropical America, Asia (chiefly on the other side of the
Ganges), and in tropical and sub-tropical South Africa ; in all of which countries
they grow in great abundance. Few are found in the islands of the Pacific
Ocean, and, so far as is at present known, no species are indigenous to Australia.
The Begonias, as a natural group or family, stand isolated as it were from even
the nearest of their allies in the vegetable kingdom, forming a very characteristic
and readily recognised class of plants, with succulent or sub -shrubby stems,
reduced to a short fleshy tuber, as in the tuberous-rooted group, or have some-
what scandent or climbing stems, as in B. glaucophylla or B. fagifolia, which cling
to a wall or other moist surface by means of numerous roots which they throw
out. Their other characteristics consist of stipulate, generally ornamental leaves,
mostly oblique at the base ; irregular or unsymmetrical monoscious flowers, that
is, there are male and female blooms on the same plant ; numerous free or mona-
delphous stamens, that is, united in one bundle ; and an inferior three — rarely
two — four or many-celled ovary, with numerous minute seeds scattered over a
very much enlarged entire or bifid placenta that projects into the cavity of the
seed-vessel. The fruit is a trigonous or sometimes winged capsule, and rarely
fleshy, resembling a berry.. The nearest allies of this family are four species
constituting the Datisca family, with which they agree in the structure of the
seeds, ovary, and unisexual flowers. There is also a slight apparent affinity
between the order and those of the Cucumber family, the Passion Flowers, and
the Saxifrages.

THE ESSENTIAL CHARACTERS OF THE GENUS BEGONIA.
THESE are that the perianth is irregular, and usually, if not always, coloured
like a corolla, consisting in the male flowers of four sepals in two series, rarely
more or fewer ; and in the female flowers of five spirally arranged, imbricating
sepals. The stamens are numerous and free, or united into a more or less
elongated bundle, and occupy the axis of the flower. The ovary is inferior, that
is, wholly sunk in the receptacle or top of the flower stalk, which is adnate to it,
so that the sepals appear to spring from the top of it ; three — rarely one, two —
four, or five-celled ; styles equalling the cells in number, free or united at the
base, and more or less deeply two-lobed or divided ; placentas axile, rarely
parietal. The three-angled or often winged fruit is a capsule opening at the

CHARACTERISTICS OF THE FAMILY. lj

angles or on the sides beneath the calyx, rarely baccate or fleshy, and not bursting.
These characters are, however, exceedingly variable in different species, as
might be expected in such an extensive genus ; and the genus has been divided
into forty-one genera by a German author, Klotzsch, but the characters are so
inconstant in different members of various groups that the classification could not
be retained. Alphonse de Candolle divided the' genus into three, namely,
Casparya, Begonia, and Mezierea, according as the fruit burst at the angles, at
the sides, or had parietal placentas, respectively ; but these characters are also
too inconstant for the retention of such a classification. The sections and genera
of those authors are, however, used in the Genera Plantarum for the purpose of
grouping the various members of the genus in some intelligible and systematic
way.

INTERESTING EXCEPTIONS TO THE GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS.
THERE are some interesting exceptions to the above-mentioned botanical cha-
racters. In the section Begoniella, the sepals are united into a bell-shaped calyx,
enclosing a definite number of stamens. The sepals are reduced to two in B.
dipetala in both the male and female flowers, while several of the smaller-
flowered species have the male flowers in this condition. The male blooms in B.
octopetala vary with from six to nine sepals, resembling in no small measure
the flowers of an Anemone, while the cordate-orbicular and lobed leaves serve to
strengthen the illusion. The female flowers, as well as those of B. socotrana and
others, have six sepals. The large placentas projecting into the cavity of the
ovary are a marked feature of this, as well as some other orders, and they are
entire as in B. socotrana, two-lobed or two-parted in others, and occasionally
many-lobed. They project from the walls of the ovary, which is accordingly one.
celled (as already mentioned), in the section Mezierea. Many species are
remarkable for the production of adventitious buds and leaves from the surface of
the stem or leaves themselves. As an instance of this erratic condition, B.
phyllomaniaca may be mentioned, the stems of which may often be seen densely
covered with small leaves.

Many species, as is well known to gardeners, may be propagated from leaves or
cuttings of leaves. The old-fashioned B. Evansiana produces numerous bulbils in
the axils of the upper leaves, by which it is regularly propagated in many a
cottage window. B. gracilis Martiana, another tuberous-rooted species with
showy flowers, also produces bulbils in vast numbers. In B. socotrana and the
new race of winter-flowering garden forms partly derived from it, the bulbils are
usually of large size and mostly confined to the base of the stem. B. socotrana
occasionally flowers directly from these bulbils, on peduncles unaccompanied by
leaves. The bulbils themselves consist of broad, overlapping pale green scales,
which are the morphological equivalents of leaves. Economically the genus is
not of much importance ; but B. tuberosa and B. malabarica are used as pot-
herbs in their native country.

12 THE TUBEROUS BEGONIA.

The flowers or leaves, or both taken together, are often very showy, so that of
the 350 known species it is not surprising that a large number of them have
been introduced from time to time. Both in Britain and on the Continent
especially the work of introduction continues to be prosecuted. B. nitida, which
was brought from Jamaica in 1777, seems to have been the first introduction to
this country, but up till 1800 only five species seem to have been in cultivation.
Since then, till now, however, they have increased in number with greater or less
rapidity, according to the zeal of cultivators or the fashion of the times. Several
tuberous-rooted species have been introduced from time to time, but the advent
of the six tuberous species from South America within comparatively recent
years, and which are described in another chapter, has given a fresh impetus to
their cultivation ; and the immensely improved and numerous progeny that
has been derived from them, now occupies a permanent position in the routine
of culture in hundreds of gardens.

Although upwards of half of the 350 known species have been introduced, it
will be germane to our purpose in a work like the present to group in sections
those only in which we are specially concerned. , B. boliviensis, introduced in
1864, belongs to the section Barya, which is characterised by the filaments being
united, forming a long tassel -like column, and by the bifid placentas. Another
species, B. monadelpha, having the same characters, does not seem to be in culti-
vation. The staminal column is a well-marked feature, and the sepals are also
greatly elongated and narrow. B. Clarkei, B. Veitchii, B. rosseflora, B. Fearcei,
and B. Davisii, all belong to the section Huszia, having free stamens, bifid
placentas, and the stigmatic surfaces forming a papillose spiral line surrounding
the branches of the styles. The first three mentioned have larger, rounder
flowers and broader sepals than B. boliviensis.

BEHAVIOUR UNDER CULTIVATION.

As might be expected, the size and shape of the flowers have been greatly
altered by the effect of so much cross-breeding, hybridisation, and cultivation ;
but, from a botanical point of view, the most important and remarkable changes
that have been accomplished relate to the doubling of the flowers, in which
greater monstrosities and a more remarkable metamorphosis of parts occur than
in those of any other natural order. The male flowers are those which most
frequently become double, while the female ones on the same plant are usually
single. Some of the earliest obtained double flowers were evidently derived from
B. boliviensis, and were poor, ragged things, with scattered petaloid segments
along an elongated axis. Since then, however, some of the grandest types of
double flowers have been obtained from the same species, as may be witnessed in
Messrs. John Laing and Sons' collection at Forest Hill. Some of the largest-
flowered types more resemble a truss of a double scarlet Pelargonium than
anything else. The sepals often remain of no great size, while the stamens
become resolved into broad, flattened petaloid structures, bearing branches in

THE GENUS HILDEBRANDIA. 13

•»

their axils, and these branches terminate in little rosettes of similarly petaloid
segments. The whole axis elongates before the flowers drop, and the secondary
pedicels elongate so that the truss of the originally compact flower becomes a
raceme of little flowers.

No less interesting is the phenomenon presented by the doubling of female
flowers in many of the varieties. Not only does the normally inferior ovary
become superior, but the carpels of which it is composed spread out flat, so that
the placentas bearing myriads of small white ovules become exposed, while the
upper part of the petaloid carpel may be scarlet, or of some other brilliant hue.
No seeds can, of course, be developed by these monstrous doubles. A third
remarkable type is represented by the variety Viridiflora, which is not the only
instance of the kind by any means. The segments are shaped like ordinary
leaves, being similarly lobed and toothed at the margin, and long before the
flower drops they become quite green. Some single flowers even are crenated or
fimbriated at the margin, resembling the leaves in this respect, although they
retain their petaloid character and colour to the last. The narrow leaves of B.
boliviensis are characteristic of most of Messrs. Laing's doubles.

The beautiful double varieties of Messrs. H. Cannell and Sons, Swanley,
judging from the prevailing character of the broad leaves, and a slightly different
habit, have evidently been derived from B. Veitchii, or others of the same type,
such as B. rosseflora and B. Clarkei. In some of their doubles the true sepals are
much longer than those of the central rosette, forming a cross-shaped guard. In
others the whole flower consists of a number of rosettes collected together in one
flower in a similar yet slightly different way to those mentioned above ; while a
third type presents still more remarkable characters. A double flower primarily
male has small outer or true sepals, while from the axils of two of these, two-
stalked, single, female flowers are produced right and left of the originally male
flower, so that there would seem to be practically no limit to variation.

THE GENUS HILDEBRANDIA.

THIS is the only genus other than Begonia that belongs to the family. The
flowers are regular or nearly so, consisting of five broadly ovate, acute sepals, and
five small spathulate petals alternating with them. The stamens are numerous
and free. The ovary is hemispherical, without wings, free at the apex, that is,
partly superior and imperfectly five-celled, with five deeply two-lobed placentas,
numerous small ovules, and five bilobed or forked styles. There are numerous
small stalked glands springing from the sepals of the female flowers. The fruit
is a capsule, bursting at the apex and between the sepals, similarly to that of the
Mignonette. H. sandwichensis, a native of the Sandwich Islands, and the only
species known, is a fleshy, hairy-stemmed, branching herb, with cordate-orbicular,
lobed leaves, and axillary cymes of small whitish flowers. It is botanically
interesting, but of no horticultural value.

14 THE TUBEROUS BEGONIA.

HISTORY OF THE TUBEROUS BEGONIA.

ft LL the varieties of the Tuberous Begonia now in existence, both single
^^. and double, are * derived from six species — viz. , B. boliviensis, B.
jig Pearcei, B. Veitchii, B. rosseflora, B. Davisii, and B. Clarkei, and of
these the five first-named were introduced into this country by Messrs. James
Veitch and Sons, of Chelsea, and by them put into commerce.

Begonia boliviensis (see illustration, p. 15), which was the first of
the series introduced by the Messrs. James Veitch and Sons, was collected by
their traveller, Mr. Pearce, in Bolivia, and sent home in 1864. It was first
exhibited in public at the International Horticultural Exhibition, held at
Paris in May,' 1867, and in the following year, 1868, it was put into com-
merce. In 1867 it was figured and described in the Botanical Magazine,
t. 5657, as "a tuberous-rooted deciduous kind, attaining an average height of
2 feet. Its foliage is of a rather light green colour, of the ' fuschioides '
character, and its small drooping flowers are of a bright cinnabar-scarlet
colour." For a long time after its introduction, its small and thin-petalled
flowers were much prized by horticulturists, though it was not perhaps showy
enough to attract the attention of the general public.

Begonia Pearcei, the next to arrive in 1865, also came from Bolivia,
having been collected at La Paz by Mr. Pearce, in whose honour it was
fittingly named. This also is figured in the Botanical Magazine, t. 5545, and
described as being "nearly allied in botanical character to B. cinnabarina.
Flowers yellow, about 1 inch to 1J inches across ; leaves dark velvet-green,
and nearly glabrous above, dull red beneath, excepting the nervures." Its
clear yellow flowers and handsomely marbled foliage are characteristics still
found — and in some cases very conspicuously — in many of the varieties of
the present day, which have been more or less directly derived from it.

Begonia Veitchii (see illustration, p. 17) was the next addition, made
in 1867, and a most valuable introduction it proved, for practically it is the
progenitor of the varieties which give the round flowers now so much admired.
This species was discovered by Mr. Pearce, near Cuzco, in Peru, at an eleva-
tion of 12,500 feet. It is figured in the Botanical Magazine, t. 5663, and
described as having "the habit of Saxifraga ciliata, immense flowers of a
vivid vermilion-cinnabar-red, that no colourist can produce." B. Veitchii

BEGONIA BOLIVIENSIS.

BEGONIA BOLIVIENSIS. Introduced from Bolivia in 1864. (See p. 14.)

16 THE TUBEROUS BEGONIA.

was put into commerce in 1869, and is still cultivated in considerable quanti-
ties by some growers, its constitution being remarkably good; and this
fact, coupled with its freedom of flowering and the bright appearance of its
numerous blossoms, renders it valuable as a bedding variety. It is, however,
now greatly surpassed in effectiveness in this capacity by numerous varieties,
most of which, if not quite all, are largely indebted to it for their best
qualities.

Begonia rosseflora (see illustration, p. 19) was imported by the
Messrs. Veitch from the Andes of Peru, where it was collected at an elevation
of 12,000 feet, and it flowered first in the Chelsea Nursery in July, 1867. It
has stout red petioles and scapes, broad round leaves with deeply-impressed
veins, and bears numerous pale red flowers "like those of the Briar Rose,"
and about 2 inches in diameter. This species was not much used by the
hybridist, but is one of the parents of a few of the earliest raised varieties.
It is figured in the Botanical Magazine, t. 5680.

Begonia Davisii (see illustration, p. 21) was discovered by Messrs.
Veitch's collector, Mr. Davis, near Chupe, in Peru, at an elevation of 10,000
feet, and flowered for the first time in the Chelsea Nursery in July, 1876,
though it was not put into commerce until 1879. It is figured in the
Botanical Magazine, t. 6252, and received a First Class Certificate from the
Floral Committee on August 2nd of the same year. It is a very dwarf-
habited species, with bright scarlet flowers, and smooth and glossy foliage ;
and it has proved itself remarkably valuable to hybridists, for by the judi-
cious crossing of this species with other strains derived from the Boliviensis
and Veitchii types, a number of varieties have been obtained, both single
and double-flowered, possessing the characteristics of a remarkably dwarf and
compact habit, with moderate-sized but brightly coloured blooms. The inflores-
cence of B. Davisii being naturally of a more or less erect character, as
well as very abundant, these points also are reproduced to a great extent in
hybrids obtained from this species as one of the parents ; and, in fact, most
if not all modern single varieties of the " erect " type, as well as the newly-
introduced and exceedingly valuable class of dwarf, upright, double-flowering
kinds, owe their best qualities to it. The fine double varieties, B. Davisii
hybrida flore pleno, B. Davisii plena superba, B. Davisii lutea plena, Canary
Bird, M. Casset, &c., may be cited as admirable examples of the result of
intercrossing this species with other varieties ; and among the singles may be
named Miss Constance Veitch, Mrs. Arthur Potts, and such more modern
novelties as Scarlet Gem and Novelty.

Begonia Clarkei was first flowered by Colonel Trevor Clarke at Welton
Place, Daventry, in 1867, but he had had the plant for several years
previously, having received it from Messrs. E. G. Henderson and Son, as a
native of Peru. Though at first sight resembling B. Veitchii, there is
a considerable difference between them, B. Clarkei being the least hardy

BEGONIA VEITCHII.

BEGONIA YEITCIIII. Introduced in 1867. (See p. 14.)

18 THE TUBEROUS B*EGONIA.

of the two, and requiring a warmer temperature. It grows about 2 feet
high, has leaves from 6 inches to 8 inches in diameter, of a dull green
colour above ; and has flowers from 2 inches to 2^ inches in diameter, of a
bright rose-red colour. It is figured in the Botanical Magazine, t. 5675,
and like B. rosceflora, has only been sparingly used as a parent. \

Begonia Frcebelii is another species which should be noticed in this
place, and which produces more or less tuberous roots ; but as this plant
does not appear to be amenable to hybridisation, it must be recorded against
it that the present race of Tuberous-rooted Begonias owes nothing whatever
to it. B. Froebelii — one of the many discoveries of the late Mr. B. Roezl—
was introduced in 1872 from Ecuador, by the Messrs. Froebel, nurserymen,
of Zurich, and has a remarkably dwarf habit. The leaves and flower
stems all rise separately, direct from the tuber ; the blooms are small,
but of a very bright Scarlet or light crimson colour, and very showy ; the
leaves are usually somewhat triangular in shape, _ with a handsome velvety
surface like that of some Gesneras. B. Froebelii, as has been stated, does
not ally itself with any of the other species, but seeds freely when
fertilised with its own pollen. The resultant seedlings are always more
or less true to the parent type, some, however, being considerably superior
to others in size and colour of the flower, and in other respects. If some
mode of crossing this species with the ordinary varieties could be dis-
covered, we should probably obtain an entirely new and distinct race of
hybrids. At present it is specially valuable as a winter-flowering plant,
coming into bloom after all the ordinary tuberous varieties have gone to rest.

THE FIRST GARDEN HYBRID.

THE first hybrid raised in this country, perhaps the first that was ever
raised anywhere, and certainly the first put into commerce of which we can
find any record, was Begonia Sedeni ($ee illustration, p. 23), sent out by the
Messrs. Veitch in 1870. It was raised by their foreman, Mr. John Seden, to
whose skill as an hybridist horticulture owes so much, and originated from a
cross between B. boliviensis and a species which the Messrs. Veitch then
had, but which was never named or sent out. In what year Mr. Seden com-
menced crossing the Tuberous Begonia we do not know, nor have we any
knowledge of the number of hybrids he raised, from which were selected
B. Sedeni, and the seventeen other sorts subsequently sent out by the Messrs.
Veitch. Suffice it to say here then, that considerable numbers were raised
and grown on to the flowering stage, and then rigorously selected, and all
but the favoured few destined to be named and propagated, were burnt,
"seedling Begonias" being not sojvaluable then as now.

BEGONIA EOS^FLOEA.

BEGONIA ROS^EFLORA. First flowered in 1867. (Xee p. 16.)

THE TUBEROUS BEGONIA.

Begonia Sedeni was first introduced to public notice in June, 1869, when
it was awarded the silver Flora Medal of the Royal Horticultural Society, as
"the best new plant shown for the first time in bloom." Its pretty rosy
crimson flowers it need scarcely be said were greatly admired, and Mr. Seden
used his treasure with good effect, both as a seed-bearing and pollen parent.
It may be convenient here to place on record an authentic list of the varieties
raised by Mr. Seden for his employers, showing the order in which they were
raised, their parentage, and the year in which they were sent out.

LIST OF HYBRID TUBEROUS-ROOTED BEGONIAS,

RAISED BY MESSRS. /AMES VEITCH AND SONS.

Order in
which
they were
raised.

NAME.

PARENTAGE— Female Parent
always Named First.

When
put into
Com-
merce.

B. Sedeni

B. Boliviensis x species unnamed...

1870.

,, intermedia

,, Boliviensis x B V^itchii

1872.

,, Chelsoni

„ Boliviensis x B. Sedeni

1872.

„ Stella

,, Sedeni x B. Veitchii :

1874.

,, Vesuvius

,, Clarkei x B. Sedeni

1874.

,, Chelsoni x B. cinnabarina

1875.

,. Model

,, Sedeni x B. Pearcei

1876.

,, Acme

,, intermedia x B. Sedeni

1876.

,, Monarch .

,, Sedeni x B. intermedia

1878.

,, Viscountess Doneraile

,, Monarch x B. Sedeni

1877.

,, Mrs. Charles Scorer ...

,, Viscountess Douernile x B.

1880.

,, Emperor ....

B. Clarkei x B. Chelsoni

1877.

,, Kallista

,, Sedeni x B.Stella

1876.

„ Queen of Whites

Light-coloured varieties of B. rosse-
flora

1878.

,, Admiration

B Excelsior x B. Davisii

1881.

,, rosea superba

, rosaeflora x B. seedling . .

1880.

,, Miss Constance Veitch

1880.

,, Mrs. Arthur Potts

1882.

We need, perhaps, scarcely go into particulars respecting the whole of
these hybrids, as many of them are not now to be found in trade lists, but
a few] for special reasons may be alluded to. B. intermedia (see p. 31) bore
flowers which closely resembled those of its male parent, but darker in colour.
B. Chelsoni, sent out the same year, was a pale orange-scarlet (see p. 33). Vesu-

BEGONIA DAVISII.

BEGONIA DAVISII. First flowered in 1876. (dee p. 16.)

vius was the next step in advance, and is still valued as a robust and useful
bedder, having bright orange-scarlet flowers. Acme (see p. 35), purplish carmine,
is still much grown ; and Monarch was a brilliant vermilion-scarlet. Viscountess
Doneraile, the result of crossing the last-named with B. Sedeni, is destined to
play an important part in the future history of the Begonia, it being one of

THE TUBEROUS BEGONIA.

the parents of Begonia John Heal (B. socotrana being the other), a variety
raised by Mr. Heal, another of Messrs. Veitch's clever foremen, and which
has proved to be the first of an entirely new race of winter-flowering
varieties (see p. 74). Emperor (see p. 37), orange-scarlet and a fine bedding
variety, was the largest-flowered form raised in the Messrs. Veitch's nursery,
and when sent out was considered a magnificent variety, and marked a
wonderful stride forward. The next, and certainly one of the most valu-
able varieties of the series, was Queen of the Whites (see pp. 39, 41 ), sent out
in 1878 at half a guinea each. This some growers consider to be a white
form of B. Veitchii, and further, that it should have been called B. Yeitchii
alba ; but be that as it may, its parentage is well known, it having been
obtained by intercrossing light-coloured varieties obtained from B. rosseflora,
and from it (Queen of the Whites) and White Queen (mentioned below)
the present race of white-flowering Begonias has sprung.

HYBRIDS EAISED BY MESSRS. O'BRIEN, BULL, SUTTON, AND OTHERS.

ABOUT 1871, shortly after Begonia Sedeni and some few other varieties had
been put into commerce, Mr. James O'Brien ' (then with Messrs. E. G.
Henderson and Son), recognising the usefulness of the new-comers, set to
work upon them, and during the first year carefully cross-fertilised a large
number of flowers, many of which, being made with shrubby and fine-leaved
varieties of the Hex type, failed ; but, still, some grand successes were scored.
B. vivicans, a fine scarlet, Dr. Masters, a rich crimson, and some half-dozen
others, all first-class in their day, were secured./ His best* hit, however, was
in obtaining White Queen, which, with Messrs. Veitch's Queen of Whites,
as above stated, laid the foundation for all the pure whites which have
since been obtained. White Queen was gained after much perseverance by
intercrossing the shrubby white-flowered B. parvifolia and B. Sedeni ; and
although only six or seven seeds germinated out of the many pods sown, the
plants obtained were sufficient to give the. pure white break desired.

Mr. O'Brien also tried B. Veitchii crossed with B. parvifolia, with curious
results, the plants obtained from the cross having Veitchii tubers with a few hard
shrubby stems. The crossv however, proved of no use, as the flowers dropped
almost before they were open. Another great break out of this batch was
obtained by crossing B. Veitchii with a small-flowered, but very highly-
coloured seedling. The progeny was as rich in colour as many of the dark-
crimson varieties we have now ; but owing to a stubborn habit of growth it
was never distributed, but used as a breeder, and produced the large crimson
variety, with handsome foliage, sent out under the name of Prince of Wales.

Mr> O'Brien also raised the first two doubles obtained in this country-
Princess of Wales and Princess Teck— which were exhibited at South Kensing-
ton, and much admired, but which were unfortunately lost during the resting
season. He also raised, concurrently with Mr. William Bull, B. carminata,

THE FIRST GARDEN HYBRID.

BEGONIA SEDENI. The First Hybrid raised at Chelsea. (See p. 18.)

24 THE TUBEKOUS BEGONIA.

by intercrossing B. Pearcei and B. Sedeni. Many other good varieties followed,
but their raiser ultimately gave up the race after Begonia novelties after doing
yeoman's service to the cause.

Shortly after the Messrs. Veitch sent out Begonia Sedeni, Mr. William
Bull commenced to hybridise and for several years regularly sent out a batch
of novelties. One of his first and best varieties was B. carminata, and by
intercrossing this and others, such as Messrs. Veitch's B. intermedia (bolivi-
ensis x Veitchii), B. Sedeni and B. Veitchii, he soon had a large quantity
of seedlings, from which such sorts as Aurora, Emblem, Lucinda, Seraph, Star-
light, and Sunrise were selected and sent out in the spring of 1873. In
August of the same year he sent out a dozen and a half more, under the
following names, which are recorded here because it is most probable that
none of them are now in cultivation : — Anacreon, Brilliant, Cardinal, Caroline,
Climax, Corsair, Dazzle, Dragon, Eclipse, Ensign, Gem, Hermine, Lothair,
Magnet, Mazeppa, Meteor, Surprise, and Trojan.

Other firms were also early in the field, among them being Messrs. Sutton
and Sons and Messrs. James Carter and Co., the first named especially being
very successful in introducing new shades of colours. The foundation of
their strain was a small white-flowered variety, named Moonshine, and B.
Pearcei, which gave them white, cream, flesh-pink, and primrose-coloured
flowered varieties, with the dwarf, compact, free -flowering habit of B. Pearcei ;
and by intercrossing these and later seedlings, the firm has for several
years been enabled to offer roots selected to colour, under the general
description of the " Heading Beauty " strain.

THE FOREST HILL STRAIN.

IT was in the year 1875 - when Mr. John Laing, of Forest Hill (whose
portrait we have the pleasure to introduce into these pages), after some
years of patient labour bestowed on the improvement of many of our most
important florists' flowers, turned his attention to the Tuberous Begonia, for
which he believed there was a grand future as a greenhouse decorative plant.
How he has succeeded in the development of the plant to a pitch of excellence
at first undreamed of all the world now knows, and we can only express our
regret here that we are unable to give more than a general idea of how the
marked improvement has been brought about by him. Mr. Laing com-
menced cross-breeding with B. boliviensis, B. Yeitchii, B. Pearcei, and the
following varieties : — Vesuvius, Dr. Masters, Mrs. Masters, and Dr. Hooker ;
but the seedlings obtained in the following year were not of a promising char-
acter, but little improvement being visible. . He then obtained all the varieties
he could get of other raisers, both at home and on the Continent, which
he crossed with his own seedlings, and vice versd; and the next season had
the pleasure of raising several sorts which were decided improvements. This
little success gave a fresh impetus to the work, and by adding to his stock

THE FOREST HILL STRAIN.

JOHN LAINO.

26 THE TUBEROUS BEGONIA.

the best new varieties sent out by other growers, and saving seeds, carefully
fertilised, from the finest sorts, had the results of fifty-seven different crosses
to sow in January, 1878 ; and from these sowings great advances were
obtained. In the summer of the same year Mr. Laing exhibited at South
Kensington a group of seedlings which fairly startled the floral world, and
to which the Royal Horticultural Society awarded its Gold Medal, many of
the varieties being also distinguished by the award of First Class Certificates.
Then was the Tuberous Begonia characterised as " the coming flower."

In the same year, the Messrs. Veitch sent out their Queen of Whites, which
turned out to be a splendid seed or pollen parent. Mr. Laing crossed it
with Henderson's "White Queen, and vice versd, and in 1879 obtained some
500 seedlings, all of which bore white flowers, and which marked a great
improvement on all the white-flowered varieties then in cultivation. They
varied greatly in habit, but all bore fine flowers ; and a selection of the
tallest-growing sorts was named Heine Blanche, while the dwarf-growers were
matched, and named Stanstead Bride. The former was certificated the same
year, as also was Stanstead Rival, a variety selected out of the same batch,
which marked the greatest advance of all, and which was the first variety
that had nearly erect flower-stems and round flowers. Other fine seedlings
raised the same year were Princess of Wales, Lady Hume Campbell, Exoni-
ensis, and J. S. Law ; and some fine dark seedlings, among them being a
very small, nearly black variety, of no use for general cultivation, but
which was kept for hybridising purposes, and which was one of the pro-
genitors of the splendid dark crimson bedding varieties which were so much
admired by all visitors to the Messrs. Laing's nursery last autumn.

In 1879 renewed energy was thrown into the work of cross- fertilising,
Mr. Laing having so many improved flowers to work upon, and in the spring
of the following year he had 161 different crosses from single and double
varieties, Stanstead Rival being the most extensively used variety on account
of its stiff habit and erect flower stems. Reine Blanche and Lady Hume
Campbell were also extensively used, and from the seeds obtained that season
were acquired still further advances in shape, size, substance, and colour — in
the latter point especially. The later sorts obtained at Forest Hill have
been gained by constantly selecting the largest and finest shaped flowers for
crossing, the results therefrom being the grand strain now offered as "Royal
Begonias." Mr. Laing has truly done wonders for the Begonia, and in no
way can this be better illustrated than by comparing the flowers of the first
hybrid, B. Sedeni (see p. 23), with one of Mr. Laing's greatest achievements,
Queen Victoria (see illustration on the opposite page).

THE SWANLEY COLLECTION.

SOME two years after Mr. Laing took the Begonias in hand, Mr. Henry
Cannell commenced their cultivation at Swanley, and as showing what pro-

BEGONIA QUEEN VICTORIA. (See p. 26.)

28 THE TUBEROUS BEGONIA.

gress ho has made, we may mention that in 1877 he offered for sale only
nine Begonias, including B. octopetala and B. Frcebelii, which, as we have
before observed, have taken no part in the production of the magnificent
varieties of the present day. Sedeni, Dr. Masters, Stella, and Vivicans were
among the tuberous varieties, offered together with B. boliviensis and B.
Pearcei. The following year thirty-eight sorts were offered for sale ; but four
of them do not belong to the tuberous type as now recognised. The greater
number of these were of Continental origin, and few of them now figure in
collections containing the more modern improvements. Three doubles weie
mentioned, namely, Louis Van Houtte, W. E. Gumbleton, and Argus, together
with a semi-double, Notaire Beaucarne. In 1879, twelve doubles were de-
scribed, and ninety-six singles, including six of other species. A good
sprinkling of them originated in this country, including "White Queen and
Queen of "Whites ; but still the Continental productions were most prominent
in this collection. The doubles numbered twenty-two, and the singles about
100 in the following year, necessitating classification into different colours, of
which the variety even then was most wonderfuL In 1881, the double
varieties numbered twenty-nine, and in the following year forty-two, with a
corresponding increase of single -flowered sorts. At least thirty-five of the
double forms were of Continental origin, and even at this time they began
to show some of the freaks and peculiarities for which they are noted. Some
of the flowers mimicked those belonging to other natural orders, and a new
section was created for those having serrated margins to the sepals, an indica-
tion of a tendency to revert to ordinary foliage leaves.

More progress seems to have been made with the single varieties in this
country, and six are specially mentioned as having been raised by the Messrs.
Cannell, including three yellow and two buff-coloured varieties, which owe
their origin to B. Pearcei as one of the parents. A house of 150 ft. in
length was set apart for them at Swanley, in 1881, and what is equally
interesting, a number Was planted out in the experimental garden there, and
which withstood the following winter, flowering well the succeeding year.
The double varieties numbered fifty-two in 1883, and were mostly or
all, as before, of Continental origin ; in 1884, they numbered sixty-five ; in
1885, forty-four of the older varieties, together with thirty-five new ones,
are described, including the beautiful late-flowering Camellia-formed, white
Octavie. In 1886, 112 doubles were described, including seventeen new ones,
obtained from France and Germany. Last year (1887), 119 doubles were
described. An inspection of them shows that they have mostly been derived
from B. Veitchii and others of that type, having broad leaves and broad
rounded petals ; a few have also been obtained from B. Davisii. During the
last year or two, Mr. Cannell has been most successful in raising double
varieties, and now possesses a number which mark a great stride onwards.
Some dozen or more of these will be offered next season.

THE SWANLEY COLLECTION.

Mr. Cannell cannot be described as a raiser of the Begonia in the same
sense as Mr. Laing, but he has grown them by tens of thousands, and has
rendered horticulture good service by constantly introducing the best of the
Continental novelties, and exhibiting them in a condition that few can surpass.
Mr. CannelTs portrait, given below, is an easily recognisable likeness of a
man who, during the last quarter of a century, has been a power for good

HENRY CANNELL.

in the horticultural world, inasmuch as that, perhaps, no man during the
period has sent out so many grand florists' flowers. During the same period,
we must also add that he has, by indomitable pluck and energy, built up a
business of considerable magnitude, and that, too, under circumstances which
would have deterred many another man from attempting the task.

THE CONTINENTAL SEEDLINGS.

FROM Continental raisers came first the following kinds : — Brillant (Thibaut
and Keteleer), bright red ; and F. Siesmayer, vermilion ; Chas. Raes, deep
scarlet ; Laurent Descours, carmine-rose ; Lselia, purplish red ; and Paul
Masurel, all from M. Van Houtte, of Ghent. The following three came out

30 THE TUBEROUS BEGONIA.

about 1876 : Madame Hunibelle, salmou-rose ; Velours, vermilion ; and Exposi-
tion de Sceaux. Massange de Louvrex, orange-red, a fine bedder, was
introduced about 1877 ; and in 1878 came Cecile Gente, the first white
worth anything, excepting, of course, the Messrs. Yeitch's " Queen of Whites. "
In 1878 came Chas. Baltet, soft vermilion, and Raphael de Smet, from M.
Lemoine, of Nancy ; and these again were succeeded by Trocadero, vermilion ;
Frangois de Craen, fine crimson-scarlet ; and Paul Quequignon, somewhat
similar in colour, all of which were raised by M. Crousse. Almost all of these
have now been discarded, being greatly surpassed in every respect by more
recent productions, though the three last, Trocadero, Fran§ois de Craen, and
Paul Quequignon, are still to be met with, being certainly very vigorous in
habit and possessing large blooms, though wanting in shape.

These were the best varieties extant up to about 1879, and about this time
the Continental raisers were somewhat ahead of English growers, the above
and many other kinds of less note having been sent out in quick succession
by the firms of Crousse, Lemoine, Van Houtte, and others. For some three
or four years previously, however, the Frenchmen had been turning their
attention to the double-flowering forms, which up to that time were on the
whole an insignificant lot, and but little admired or thought of. The first
double-flowering Begonia sent out was M. Lemoine's Lemoinei, in 1876, and
which was first bloomed in the British Isles, in Mr. W. E. Gumbleton's garden
at Belgrove, Queenstown. Shortly afterwards came the same raiser's Gloire de
Nancy, the first really fine double, and which is still to be found in the lists.
In Messrs. Laing's list for 1877, eleven double varieties are enumerated, and
most of them quoted at the high price of fifteen shillings each.

Besides the varieties above named, we had Argus, of a bright orange-red
colour ; Balsaminseflora plena, orange ; Salmonea plena, salmon-rose ; Ane-
monseflora plena, Alba plena, L. Thibaut, Louis Van Houtte, President
Burelle, and W. E. Gumbleton. These are now so far surpassed as to be
seldom seen, and are hardly worth growing ; but by the year 1883, so many
fine varieties were being introduced as to be too numerous to mention. Since
1881 or 1882, M. Felix Crousse, of Nancy, has sent out a constant succession
of splendid varieties, single and double, every year up to date, and he is now
quite at the head of Continental raisers. Mistress Hall, his splendid large
double, cream-coloured variety of last year, was admitted to be the finest of
the kind ever seen, when it was exhibited by Mr. Gumbleton at the autumn
show of the Irish Royal Horticultural Society, held last September ; and
his fine large single Rubens and Eclaire, grown in the same gentleman's
garden, proved to be of greatly superior substance and perfection of cupped
form to many of the home-raised novelties. M. Crousse sends out this year
five more splendid doubles, of which Lucy Closon is said by a gentleman
who saw it last year at Nancy, to be the most magnificent double pure white
yet seen ; and fine large singles, reported also to be very fine.

BEGONIA INTERMEDIA,

BEGONIA INTERMEDIA. Boliviensis x Veitchii. (See p. 20.)

32 THE TUBEROUS BEGONIA.

THE INTRODUCER OF THE TUBEROUS-ROOTED BEGONIAS.

BEFORE concluding this section, we may be pardoned a slight digression, in
order to do honour to the memory of a man, whose name will be held in
esteem so long as the Tuberous Begonia exists as a garden plant— we allude
to Richard Pearce, to whose energy and daring as a traveller we are indebted
for the earliest species, introduced from Bolivia and Peru, and of whom we
have the pleasure to give a characteristic portrait as a frontispiece to this
book, prepared from a photograph kindly lent us for the purpose by Mr.
Harry J. Veitch. Richard Pearce was a native of Plymouth, and was first
employed in the nursery of Mr. Pontey, in that town. Leaving Plymouth
he entered the service of Messrs. James Veitch and Son, at Mount Radford,
Exeter, about the year 1858. Early in 1859 he went out to Chili and
Ecuador, and the first consignment of seeds and plants which he sent home
was recmved at Mount Radford on October 15th of the same year. In this
and other consignments from Chili, Pearce sent home Libocedrus tetragona,
Aganisia microphylla, Prumnopitys (Podocarpus) elegans, Podocarpus nubigena,
Eucryphia pinnata, Lapageria alba, several Bomarias, Gynmogramma »Fearcei,
and other Ferns, Fuchsia triphylla, and Thibaudia acuminata.

Early in 1862 he sent from Cuenca a great number of seeds, Bejaria
ledifolia (an evergreen shrub), Lisiantlms magnificus (afterwards sent out by
Mr. B. S. Williams), Calceolaria ericoides, and several good Tacsonias. In
March of the same year, and again in August, he sent home from Guaya-
quil some six consignments, and among these was the handsome Maranta
Veitchii. He next went to Muna, a province in Peru, when he found and
sent home, among other good things, Aphelandra nitens, Gymnostachys
Pearcei, and Sanchezia nobilis variegata. From Muna he went to Teukaman,
where he collected Nierembergia rivularis and N. Veitchii, Begonia boliv-
iensis, Palava flexuosa, Ourisea Pearcei, Mutisia decurrens, and several
Peperomias. His next journey was to La Paz, and in November, 1865, he
sent home Begonia Pearcei, B. Veitchii, a number of good Hippeastrums,
such as pardinum and Leopoldi, the progenitors of the present magnificent
race of Amaryllis ; and two or three excellent species of Eccremocarpus,
which were subsequently lost.

On returning from La Paz, Mr. Pearce left the firm, and went home to
Plymouth, where he married, but returning to London again in 1867, he went
out to Panama for Mr. William Bull, where he most unfortunately contracted
fever, and died a fortnight after his arrival, thus adding another name to
the long roll of intrepid men who have lost their lives while endeavouring
to enrich our gardens with the beautiful plants of foreign lands. Though a
man of small stature, Richard Pearce had a lion's heart, and his early death
was a great loss to British horticulture.

BEGONIA CHELSONI.

BEGONIA CHELSONI. Boliviensis x Sedeni. (See p. 20.)

34 THE TUBEEOUS BEGONIA.

PROPAGATION OF THE BEGONIA,

I— BY SEEDS.

fHE propagation of the Tuberous Begonia is effected in two ways : first,
by means of the seed, all new or improved varieties being obtained in
this way ; and secondly, by cuttings, by which method only can any
particularly desirable form be multiplied and kept true to name. In
practice, Begonias can only be propagated in anything like large numbers by
means of seed, for though there are some exceptions, most of the finest
varieties produce cuttings very sparingly. It is at all times a somewhat
difficult matter to induce these to root and form tubers, whereby the plant
is enabled to continue in existence afterwards, even when in experienced hands ;
while a single capsule will contain more than a thousand seeds, which, if
sound and good, will produce, with care, almost as many plants. "We will,
therefore, take the method of propagation from seed first.

The seed of the Tuberous Begonia is so excessively fine as to resemble
some brown-coloured dust, or snuff, more than anything else ; and it seems
marvellous that such a tiny germ as each grain contains can be the
parent of a huge plant, four feet -or so in height, with stems as thick as
one's wrist, and blooms six or more inches across. Many of these plants
attain such a size in the course of about three years, and under favourable
treatment* The seed, which must, it may be premised, be obtained from a
trustworthy source— bad or indifferent samples being not worth the trouble of
growing — has, therefore, to be sown with the greatest care upon a level
surface of the finest sifted soil, or otherwise not one quarter of it will germi-
nate at all. A steady temperature of about 70° is also necessary to induce
free and healthy germination, and this should be maintained until the plants
become well established and sturdy. This degree of heat is in all cases quite
sufficient, and indeed more favourable than anything higher, and as long as
the thermometer does not drop more than occasionally below 65°, and other
conditions being favourable, a vigorous and healthy growth is almost certain
to be maintained. It therefore follows that— particularly when the seed is
sown early in the year, as it must be to produce flowering plants, even in
the late summer or autumn of the same year — a house, pit or frame kept
at the temperature above named is a sine qud non. During June and
July, or even in May, as a rule, the seed will germinate well in an ordinary

BEGONIA ACME.

BEGONIA ACME. Intermedia x Sedeni. (See p. 21.)

greenhouse temperature, if covered rather closely by means of a handlight, or
a sheet or two of plain glass ; but if sown so late, the tubers will still be
so small by the advent of winter that they cannot bloom until the following
season, which means the loss of nearly a twelvemonth in time. There is
another drawback to the practice of late sowing, which is that, strange as it

36 THE TUBEROUS BEGONIA.

may appear, "damping off," or shanking of the young plants in the seed
pan, is from some reason much more destructive at this season than earlier.

The best place in which to raise the seedlings is on a bed of coco-nut fibre
refuse in a low, light, and warm house, span-roofed or lean-to, but preferably
the former, and placed in an open position. Beneath the coco -nut fibre, which
should be laid to the depth of two or three inches on a bottom of slates or
galvanised (corrugated) iron, there should be three or four rows of 4-inch hot-
water pipes, so as to maintain a steady bottom-heat of 75° or thereabouts.
Plain pipes are preferable to a hot-water tank, for the latter often gives off far
too much moisture, especially in a low or close structure ; while, if the fibre is
kept moderately moist, there will be dampness enough, but not too much. The
top-heat, or general temperature of the house, should range from 65° to 70°, or
never below 60°, or above 75° ; and with the warmth of the bed at the figure
before indicated — 5° to 10° more than the body of the house, nothing better as
regards temperature could be desired. In a house of this character, the pots or
pans of seedlings can be much more easily and better attended to than in a pit
or frame outside, and both warmth and moisture can be regulated more perfectly.
The seeds, however, will also germinate very well on a shelf in a stove or warm
house, such as an early vinery or cucumber-house, where the convenience above
described does not exist.

PREPARING THE PANS AND SOWING THE SEEDS.
THE best receptacles for the seed are the deep round or square earthenware
pans made in most potteries, though ordinary flower-pots, or even flat wooden
boxes, may be employed when the pans are not easily obtainable. In com-
mencing operations, get ready first a sufficient quantity of crocks, bricks
broken small, or fine "ballast," or even clean fresh ashes, with all the dust
sifted out, will do for drainage ; secondly, a compost composed principally of
leaf-soil, old, sweet and flaky, with a little loam, some fresh coco-nut fibre
refuse (this is especially useful if the leaf-soil is not thoroughly flaky and porous),
a little crushed charcoal, and plenty of coarse-grained sand. Mix this well, but
do not sift it ; merely pick out large lumps, stones, and sticks. Then sift some
good decayed leaf-soil very finely (this can be done much better if the material is
dry, and mix with it a sixth of fine clean silver-sand. The rough siftings of this
must be put aside, to be used as the best material to put over the drainage. Fill
the pans half full of crocks, though if they are shallow a third will be sufficient,
or if 5 or 6-inch pots are used, they must be two-thirds filled with drainage.
Over the crocks put a layer of the rough siftings, then an inch or so of the
coarser compost, and very gently press the surface to an even level. On the top
sprinkle not more than a quarter of an inch of the finely-sifted leaf-soil and
sand, pressing this also to a perfectly smooth and level surface. Enough soil
should be used to bring the final level up to within half an inch of the rim of
the pot or pan.

BEGONIA EMPEROR. Clarkci x Chelsoni. (See p. 22.)

THE TUBEROUS BEGONIA.

Now give a very gentle shower with a fine-rosed pot or syringe, and repeat
this until the soil is thoroughly moistened; let the surface dry a little, and
about half-an-hour afterwards sow the seed evenly and thinly, | giving the
merest dusting of the fine soil afterwards, just to keep the seed in its place,
but not enough to cover it. If the pans have been properly filled, and the
soil is in the right condition, every drop of water that falls upon the surface
should be immediately absorbed. Now set the pans on the bed, plunging
them in the coco-nut fibre refuse nearly up to the rims, and cover them
with sheets of glass, and these again with paper to exclude the sun and
strong light. These glasses, however, should not be kept on too closely ;
indeed, it is preferable to tilt them slightly from the first, or to raise them
up by some means an inch or two above the pans, so as to allow the air to
circulate gently beneath. If they lie too closely, a kind of mould or white
fungus often forms on the surface of the soil, and seriously injures the
young seedlings when they appear. "Wipe the under side of the glasses dry
every morning, keep the soil evenly moist, and the temperature regular,
shading from hot sun, and in ten days or a fortnight the seedlings will
appear, when the paper must at once be removed, except when the sun is
shining strongly. Begonia seed is almost always more or less irregular in
germinating, however fresh and good it may be ; and, indeed, as with most
other subjects, the more choice and highly bred the seed is the more shy
it is of germinating freely ; so do not despair if very few make their appear-
ance at first.

TREATMENT AFTER GERMINATION.

THE main thing to attend to after the seeds have germinated is to keep the soil
regularly moist. Beware of its becoming dry just beneath the surface, for,
strangely enough, if this occurs the seedlings will damp off wholesale. Also
keep the tops comparatively dry, or, at least, ensure the foliage being free
from moisture during the latter part of the day and at night. Therefore,
when water is required, give a thorough soaking with a fine rose sufficient
to penetrate the soil to the drainage, or if damp is troublesome, stand the
pots or pans in a vessel of water up to an inch below the level of the soil
for ten minutes, which will thoroughly moisten it, and leave the tops dry.
Gradually remove the sheets of glass- until the plants are strong enough to
bear full exposure to the atmosphere of the house, and change this occa-
sionally by opening the roof- ventilators a few inches for three or four hours
on fine days. The tender seedlings must at all times be lightly shaded from
strong sunshine.

When the young plants are showing the first rough leaf (i.e., the first
beyond the seed leaves), they must be pricked off singly. This may be per-
formed even earlier than this— almost directly they are up, if damping
should set in, as will sometimes happen in spite of the greatest care ; and,

BEGONIA QUEEN OF WHITES.

BEGONIA QUEEN OF WHITES. Raised from light coloured varieties of B. rosaeflora.

(See p. 22.)

40 THE TUBEROUS BEGONIA.

indeed, it is the opinion of some of the best growers that the sooner the
seedlings are pricked off the better they will succeed subsequently. Prepare
a sufficient number of other pots or pans in the same way as directed for
sowing the seed, but filling them rather fuller, so that the soil shall be nearly
up to the rim ; water, and let them stand until somewhat drained, then with
a very fine pointed dibble make a series of holes in the compost, about half-
an-inch apart, and with a notched dibble lift up the seedlings one by one,
and transplant them very carefully into their new quarters, subsequently very
gently pressing the soil round the roots with the point of the dibble. Be
careful that there is not more than an inch in depth of soil in these pans
at most, the rest being filled up with crocks and rough siftings ; and that
while so small the seedlings must not be handled, but be picked up by the
notched dibble, and dropped straight into the hole made for them, without
being touched by the fingers. This pricking off process is at best a tedious
and troublesome affair, but it must be done, and the sooner it is performed
the better the young plants seem to succeed. In nurseries where large
numbers of these Begonias are grown, several men are employed pricking
off seedlings all day long for weeks together, but' gardeners and amateurs find
it convenient to have a turn at it in the evening, after the rougher work
of the day is done, and a great many can be dealt with in this way in the
course of two or three hours. Unless the surface is quite moist when the
pots or pans are finished, give one gentle shower, just enough to settle the
seedlings in the soil, and do not water again until signs of dryness appear.
The nearer to the glass the plants are now kept the stronger they will be ;
admit a little air at the apex of the roof, on all fine days, up to about
4 p.m., and do what watering is required principally in the forenoon, so that
the foliage may be dry by nightfall.

TRANSPLANTING INTO BOXES OR TRAYS.

ONCE the young plants begin to move in the fresh soil, they will grow with
great rapidity in a genial atmosphere of 65° to 70°, or even a little less at
night will not hurt them, though 65° as a rule will be found the best
minimum. As soon as the plants touch each other they should be again
transplanted into flat boxes or trays, filled with any light, rich, and rather
rough, or at least porous soil, with an inch or more of rough siftings in the
bottom for drainage. Take the plants up carefully, with all the roots and
a little soil round them, and press the fresh material very gently round each
with the fingers. Keep these rather close and warm for a few days, till they
commence growing again ; then admit air, expose to a moderate amount of
sunshine, when not too strong, and gradually inure them to ordinary green-
house treatment. By the middle of May they should be good sturdy plants,
3 inches or so in height, and fit either to pot off singly, or after being
hardened off in cold frames for a fortnight to be planted in the open ground.

PROPAGATION BY SEEDS.

BEGONIA QUEEN OF WHITES. Natural size. (See p. 22.)

If suitable boxes are not at hand, or only a few plants are grown, it is a
good plan when removing them from the store pots or pans to place three
or four plants round the sides of large 60-sized pots, which are 3£ or 4 inches
in diameter, filling the pots half full of drainage. From these they may be
potted off singly, or planted out just as from the boxes.
D

42 THE TUBEROUS BEGONIA.

If, however, the seedlings, from want of room, lateness, or any other cause, are
not to be planted out, they may be potted off singly into "thumbs," or small
60-sized pots (2£ or 3-inch), from the store pots or pans, or as soon as they have
gained sufficient strength. If placed on a board or slate staging, or, better still,
a shelf near the glass in a nice growing atmosphere and slightly shaded, they will
soon fill these pots. Now shift them into 48's (5-inch pots), or if room is
limited, put the best into this size, and the smaller ones into a size smaller, say
4-inches, in which they will soon show for bloom, and make nice little plants and
fair-sized tubers, if well attended to and fed with some liquid manure when the
pots become filled with roots.

Seedling Begonias may be potted on into larger pots up to about the middle
of August, after which it is better to give them no more root-room, but to keep
up the vigour by supplies of liquid nourishment. Plants that are potted thus
late will continue to bloom nearly up to Christmas, if afforded a gentle heat when
the cool autumn days and nights arrive, and more particularly if they have the
farther advantage of a light roomy house with not too much moisture about. In
case all the plants cannot be potted on, it is possible, and as a rule by no means
difficult to a practised eye, to select the best before they come into bloom. A
good Begonia may usually be perceived while in quite a small state by the bold,
finely-shaped foliage, not much pointed, in the single forms at least, clean stems,
and when these appear, wide, circular outlined buds, usually flat and thick. In
matters of this kind, however, a little practice is worth more than a lot of
directions.

POTTING ON AND SUBSEQUENT TREATMENT.

ANY of the small plants that look promising should be potted on at once, and
after keeping close for a few days, grow on with plenty of air and slight shade
in any light structure. Such plants as these, raised in good time, and potted
somewhat firmly in rich, open, loamy soil, with good treatment make grand
decorative specimens in 48's and 32's, coming into bloom in June, July, or
August, according to the time the seed was sown. Fine plants in 5 -inch pots,
18 inches high from the pots, and nearly a foot through, have frequently been
had in full bloom by the end of June from seed sown in January, but these
were specially grown and pushed on rather rapidly ; under ordinary treatment
plants will not attain this size until July or August. When in full bloom
these pot-plants may of course be labelled and described for future use in the
same way as those grown in the open ground.

Towards autumn a very full exposure to the free air will be found to have
a marked effect upon the development of large and sound tubers ; in fact, if
the production of fine tubers is an object, it is strongly to be recommended
that the plants be stood out-of-doors altogether, on a bed of ashes or some
slates, during August and September, in a sunny spot, and, if possible, some-
what protected from strong winds. This treatment will cause the tubers to

PROPAGATION BY CUTTINGS. 43

become both larger and sounder than those that are grown altogether under
glass ; "but tubers obtained by the planting- out system are undoubtedly
superior in every way to any pot-grown roots, starting more strongly and
forming finer specimens the following season. Begonias grown in outside beds
can always be distinguished by the large size of the roots emanating from the
tuber, as well as by a certain rough fleshy appearance, while pot roots are
more scaly-looking, darker in colour, and have seldom other than fine fibrous
roots.

Should it be inconvenient to have the plants occupying space in the houses
before they come into bloom, they may, when potted into 5 or 6-inch sizes,
be placed on ashes in a cold pit or frame near the glass with the best results.
Here, with plenty of air after the first week or two and slight shade from hot
sun, they will make very dwarf and sturdy growth, and if brought indoors
when coming into bloom, they will produce an abundance of large and fine
flowers for some months.

II.— PROPAGATION BY CUTTINGS.

THIS mode of increase is only resorted to in the case of named varieties, or
those possessing some characteristic feature of sufficient importance to render
them worth preserving. Cuttings may be taken either in spring, when the
young shoots from the tuber are two or three inches long, or in the summer
and autumn, making use of the suckers or young growths which are in many
cases freely produced from the base of the main stem, or of the stubby side
shoots, taken off with a slight "heel," or even of the growing tops of the
shoots, these last, however, being very difficult to strike. Undoubtedly the
young growths taken off in spring— like Dahlia cuttings — and inserted in
well-drained pots of open sandy soil, in gentle heat, precisely as the cuttings of
Dahlias are treated, take root and make plants more easily than can be obtained
by any other method. But this treatment is very injurious to the old tubers, as
unlike Dahlias, they will not produce crop after crop of cuttings, and even
the second growth is much weaker, than the first, and if more than a few
cuttings are taken the vigour of the plant seems to be gone for the season. Any
young growths, however, produced from the base of the plants, which may often
be obtained from a scrap of root, or the short side-shoots that sometimes
spring from the lower part of the main stem, may be taken off when about
3 inches long, at any time during the summer or autumn, and the earlier
the better.

Slightly dry the cuttings — not in the sun, but in some warm, moist, shady
place, where they will not flag much, but so that the cut will heal and be on
the way to callus when inserted. Put them singly into very small thumb-
pots, or "thimbles," filled with a mixture of leaf-soil, coco-nut fibre, and a.

44 THE TUBEROUS BEGONIA.

little loam, with an equal quantity of clean coarse or sharp sand. With
these small pots, and such open compost, only two or three small bits of
crock are necessary. Place the cuttings against the side of the pot, not in
the middle, only just make the soil firm round them, and put them in a
house that is kept rather warm, close, and shady — a propagating house or
pit, in fact — either on a gentle bottom heat or on a shelf near the glass.
In summer they seem to do better on a bed of slightly moist ashes, coco-nut
fibre, or slate, and kept cool and somewhat airy at first, though carefully
shaded until the cuttings "stick up," then apply a gentle heat— underneath
the bed, if possible — to assist in the formation of roots. Later in the season,
•when the sun has lost some of its power, a dry shelf or open elevated stage-
is better, with moderate ventilation, and shade to prevent flagging. "When
the cuttings show signs of callusing apply a little heat, and encourage growth ..
In either case when the cuttings are fairly rooted shift each into 3 or 3|-incli
pots, using a light mixture of loam, leaf-soil, and sand, with a little fibre,
and encourage the production of as large and strong a plant as possible. If
inserted late in the season they will not need pptting until spring, as the
growth will die down before the roots are sufficiently numerous to require
more room. Some growers put the cuttings, several together, in larger pots
than those we have named ; but^his plan is not to be recommended, for the
mass of soil seems to be too much for them, even when, like Dahlias, they
are inserted thickly, and if one goes wrong the rest generally follow suit.

It is naturally a point of considerable importance to harden the cuttings as
much as possible before taking them, though in the case of plants in full
growth and bloom, which are probably more or less shaded, this cannot easily
be done, and the suckers or young shoots from the base aro usually more or
less soft and watery, so that one can only do the best possible under the
circumstances ; but whenever practicable, the cuttings should have been
previously solidified by exposure to sun and air. The atmosphere of the
house in which the plants are grown has a great influence on the state of
the tissues ; if at all moist, the growth is sure to be soft, and great difficulty
will be experienced in getting the cuttings to root, while, if moderately dry,
the process will be found much easier.

The points of the shoots are the most difficult to deal with, but even these
are very useful in skilful hands ; then come stubby side shoots, taken off with
a heel, and the young growths produced in spring root more readily still. In
all cases the lower leaves must be neatly trimmed off with a sharp knife,,
leaving only two or three small ones at the top ; remove also any flower buds,
that are visible. If only the base of the cutting can be induced to callus,
and emit a few roots before the advent of winter, the lower part of the cutting
hardens and forms an incipient tuber. This will retain its vitality if kept
preferably in the soil and pot in which it rooted, and somewhat dry in a
greenhouse temperature through the winter, and will almost certainly start into

PROPAGATION BY CUTTINGS.

-•growth with the application of gentle heat in spring, and become a good
plant the following summer, though no larger than a good-sized pea when it
Tvent to rest in the autumn.

Plants raised from cuttings should at all times receive the most generous
treatment, for at no time do they possess the vigour of seedlings, and if
starved or neglected soon dwindle and become a prey to insects and disease.
Still, it is at all times well worth while to take cuttings from any remarkable
or really fine variety, seedling or otherwise, and the stronger the constitution
of the parent plant, the more vigorous and successful will the young plants
undoubtedly be.

LEAF CUTTINGS.

IT is possible to obtain plants by means of leaf cuttings, treated in the same
way as Gloxinia leaves, but this is a very uncertain mode of increase, and
tubers thus obtained often refuse to grow through possessing no "eye" or
"bud," so that, except as an experiment, this method of propagation
-cannot be recommended.

BEGONIA MR. POE. Camellia type. (See p. 58.)

46 THE TUBEROUS BEGONIA.

CULTIVATION OF THE BEGONIA IN POTS,

dry roots, tubers, or conns as they are indiscriminately termed,
should be obtained early in the year, say in January, February, or
March at latest (if in a dormant state), so as to enable an eaity
start to be made if desired. One year old tubers, i.e., those raised the
previous spring, are as a rule to be preferred, as they have all their life
before them ; the only exception being where a few large or specimen plants-
are required, when two or three year old roots will give the best results.
These one year old tubers, in good mixture of colqur, can now be purchased
by the dozen' at a cheap rate, and are usually about the size of a small
walnut, or say 1 to 1| inch in diameter. It must not, of course, be
expected that there will be a large proportion of really fine flowers among
the cheap kinds, for all the best varieties are selected and marked according
to colour, form, and quality in general, when in bloom, and these superior
descriptions are sold at considerably enhanced prices. Still, the cheap mixed,
roots are quite good enough for ordinary bedding purposes, and if obtained'
from a trustworthy source often turn out very well indeed. But if selected!
sorts, or uniformity of colour, etc., are desired, then it is necessary either
to pay the higher price, or to grow a quantity of plants oneself for one
season, and select them when in flower personally ; but as a rule, an order
entrusted to a first-class grower, who has a reputation to maintain, for a
dozen or two of selected seedlings at a fair price will be certain to result in
a good assortment. "Where a number of plants absolutely uniform in colour
are required, resort must of course be had to some named kind of the desired,
colour, and if this is naturally possessed of sufficient vigour and the plants
are carefully grown, a fine result may be looked for with confidence ; but if
slightly varying shades are not objected to, then it will be best to obtain
seedlings selected as nearly as possible of the shade desired. The necessity
for perfect uniformity is now, however, rapidly going out of fashion, along
with the system of "carpet" and "ribbon" bedding that gave it birth, and
on the whole, Begonias are more telling in such positions, or in such,
arrangements or combinations, so that to know the colour of individual
plants within a little is amply sufficient.

Named varieties have, of course, blooms remarkable in some way as regards
shape, colour, size, or substance, being selected for superior excellence in one-

CULTIVATION IX POTS. 47

or more of these points ; but the growth, except perhaps when in the hands
of a very skilful cultivator, or under very favourable conditions, is generally
more or less shy and weak, and the plants on the whole not nearly so
vigorous and bushy in habit as seedlings.

SELECTING AND STARTING THE TUBERS.

Ix selecting tubers, it is well to bear in mind that the largest-sized roots
are by no means the best as a rule, that is, of course, all being of the same
age. It may at first sight seem somewhat strange, but it is nevertheless an
indubitable fact, and one that has been proved over and over again, that the
forwardest and strongest plants in a batch of seedling Begonias, which of
course form the largest bulbs, are almost invariably characterised by a rank
coarse growth, accompanied by blooms of comparatively poor quality, lacking
in size or som3 other important point. In most cases it will be found that
the smaller tubers, of a firm and plump appearance, will turn out the best,
and these as a rule are to be preferred. It has been found almost invariably
the case that the finest varieties are produced among the later-flowering
plants, those that expand first (we are speaking of spring-sown seedlings,
flowering the same year) being comparatively poor, while as the season
advances a larger proportion of first-class flowers appear. Indeed, we may
venture to affirm that among any that may not bloom the first year— if from
the same class of seed and sown at the same time, of course — will be found a
large number of very fine varieties indeed, and no one need hesitate to pur-
chase a lot of ' ' unbloomed " seedlings, if known to be of a really fine strain,
and which had been sown in good time.

The time for starting the tubers will depend to a great extent upon the
purpose for which the plants are required. If these are wanted to bloom
early under glass they must be started in a pretty brisk heat, putting them
in about the end of January or some time in February, when, if the house
is a light one and the situation open and sunny, they will probably com-
mence to bloom some time in April or Ma}7, according to the amount of
warmth they receive, and how rapidly they are pushed on. To be had thus
early, the tubers should be potted singly in small pots, about twice the
diameter (internally) of the tubers ^the sizes known as ' small sixties,'
3 in. diameter, being generally suitable), and plunged in a somewhat moist
bottom heat of 70° to 75°, such as that afforded by a bed of damp coco-nut
fibre refuse over some hot water pipes or a hot tank. The tubers will, how-
ever, seldom fail to start in almost any position — on a shelf or stage, whether
open or close, where there is sufficient warmth, but will require much more
care in watering for a time if standing free all round.

To get plants to bloom in June and onwards, a start made any time in
March, or the first week in April, will be time enough, and in this caso

48 THE TUBEROUS BEGONIA.

much less artificial heat will be needed— indeed, a well-heated greenhouse will
generally be sufficient. It should be borne in mind that the more naturally
these Begonias are allowed to start into growth, the stronger will the
subsequent growth and flowering be ; but at the same time it is as well to
employ a little heat, if only just at first, whatever the season may be, for if
left to themselves in cool quarters, some of the tubers are apt to come up
straggling long after the others, whereas in a little warmth they will all
commence to grow at nearly the same time.

COMPOST FOB THE FIRST POTTING — WATERING, ETC.

THE best compost in which to start the roots is a light porous mixture of
nearly equal parts of loam, which should be either fibrous or nodular in
texture, coarse-grained (Bedfordshire) sand, and coco-nut fibre or leaf- soil,
or preferably an equal quantity of both these ingredients. Peat may be
used in default of leaf-soil, but is not desirable ; and whatever materials
the compost employed may consist of, it is absolutely necessary that it should
be light and open in character. "With a staple of this nature, through which
water will at all times pass freely, and with these 'small-sized pots, but little
drainage is needed, and one or two pieces of crock will generally be sufficient.
In potting, a couple of smart raps on the bench will be quite enough to settle
the soil ; do not press it at all hard with the fingers at ' this stage, particularly
in the case of the single kinds. Unless the soil is in a somewhat moist
condition when used, give one gentle watering with a rosed-pot, and after this
keep it only moderately damp, inclining to dryness, until the young growth
appears well above the soil. At the same time, if the tubers are sound, and
there is a gentle warmth beneath them, there will be very little danger of
decay, and too dry a soil is almost as bad as too much moisture. The crown
of the bulbs should be only just covered with soil.

When fairly up, the principal point is to afford each plant as much light
as possible, without which no good results can be expected, so that the
nearer they are to the glass the better, particularly during the early part of
the season. The root-action must also be carefully watched, and a shift given
directly more room is required. It is also necessary to see that the lower
portion of the soil in the pots, or the bed itself, does not get very dry, as
it is particularly apt to do on a bed with bottom heat. When water at the
roots is really required, a thorough soaking should be given, sufficient to
penetrate right through the bed, pots and all. This should be done on a
fine bright morning.

THE SECOND POTTING.

DIRECTLY the young roots are commencing to run round the sides of the
pots, which can readily be ascertained by turning the plants out, reversign
the pots on the hand, all that require it must receive a shift. If started in

CULTIVATION IN POTS. 49

*' thumbs" or small 60's, this shift should be into 4S's (5-inch pots), which
•will be sufficiently large for the present. Very small tubers may even be
allowed to bloom in this size the first season, and nice little decorative
plants can be produced in 5-inch pots, with the aid of liquid manure. The
soil for this shift should be of a slightly heavier nature than that recom-
mended for the small pots, so that a larger proportion of loam will be desir-
able. Reduce the quantity of coco-nut fibre or omit it altogether, for it
contains no nourishment whatever, its only use being to keep the compost
open ; but if the soil is deficient in porosity, or if leaf-soil is scarce, a small
part may still be employed, as we. have generally found this substance
encourage root-action considerably. On the whole, we should recommend a
compost consisting of about three parts of rather rough yellow loam or
decayed turf, which should not be of a fine or sandy nature— rather the
reverse, two parts of leaf-soil, sweet and flaky, one part of thoroughly- decayed
hot-bed manure or half-decayed hops, with half a part each of fresh, granular
coco-nut fibre and coarse-grained silver sand— Leighton Buzzard is the best. The
compost should by no means be sifted, and, though well mixed, ought not to
be turned about mere than is really necessary. If the plants are to be grown
on quickly, add another part of decayed spent hops, if they can be got, to
the above. Anything like fresh or rank manure must be carefully avoided,
more particularly while the plants are small or delicate. At one time we were
under the impression that the soil could not be made too rich, and made a
free use of manure, more' or less decayed ; but we soon discovered it would
not do — the roots could not enter it, and the plants became unhealthy and
ceased to grow. Two or three pieces of crock, placed concave side downwards
over the drainage-hole will be sufficient, with a few freshly-burnt cinders, a
little "ballast" (or burnt clay), a handful of half-decayed hops, or even a
little of the rougher parts of the compost over the crocks will ensure
perfect drainage. It may be remarked by the way that these same spent
hops, when about half decayed, seem to suit Begonias, and, indeed, almost
all other soft- wooded plants admirably ; and we have sometimes, when short
of leaf-soil, used this material as a substitute with very good results. A
few handfuls placed in the bottom of the shallow boxes in which Stocks,'
Asters, Petunias, and many other similar subjects are to be pricked out
in the spring not only acts as drainage to a sufficient extent, but is pro-
ductive of a healthy and vigorous growth in the young plants, and is much
superior to moss, coco-nut fibre, or the littery manure often employed for
this purpose.

But to return to our text : In re-potting this time press the soil
moderately firm with the fingers, just covering the surface of the old ball
with the fresh material. The degree of firmness desirable is a matter re-
quiring some discretion ; loose potting causes a quick and rapid, but com-
paratively soft growth, and does not give "lasting" power, so that in the

50 THE TUBEROUS BEGONIA.

case of plants requiring to be grown on to a large size, and shifted later on-,
it will be desirable to pot more loosely than if it is desired to bring the
plants to a flowering state as soon as possible. If, on the contrary, they ale-
intended to bloom in the pots in which they are now placed, and to con-
tinue in flower for some time, we should pot quite firmly — almost hard, in fact,.
though not too much so ; and in this case we should recommend a somewhat
more substantial staple, say two or three parts of loam to one of leaf-soil,,
with very little sand. The plants will be longer in ''getting hold" of such
material, but when once established in it they will, with the help of an.
occasional dose of liquid mature, last a long time, and make a sturdier and
more branching and floriferous growth than if in a lighter staple. In and
near large towns, however, it will be found necessary to employ a fairly light
compost in all cases, for the plants being less vigorous are not able to-
penetrate so heavy a compost as country-grown examples can advantageously
occupy. Loose potting and a light rich soil conduce to the production of a
comparatively soft and rapid growth, which will not flower with freedom
until it has become hardened and solidified. It should also be borne in mind
that it is of little use potting on plants that have once fairly reached the-
flowering stage — it must be done earlier, before the roots have arrived at the
" twiggy" condition that accompanies full inflorescence. Therefore, any
plants that are to be grown on to large specimens must have a vigorous
growth encouraged from the first, and until they OGcupy the flowering-pots.
To ensure this, we must adopt comparatively Io0se potting, light rich soil,
and a moderate amount of warmth — particularly in the early part of the
season. A somewhat moist atmosphere, with careful ventilation, will greatly
assist in the attainment of what we want ; but beware in all cases of a close
and stuffy atmosphere, anything of the kind being highly injurious, and what-
ever growth is made must be properly solidified and strengthened by ample
ventilation and abundant light.

A FEW MORE WORDS ABOUT COMPOST.

WHEN the Tuberous Begonias were first introduced, they were almost
without exception grown in peat, and it must be said with very poor results.
This is still employed by some growers, but we should never recommend its-
use, except in small quantity, and in default of more suitable and nourishing
material. After a time it was found that leaf-soil afforded much better
results, both as regards luxuriance of foliage and quality of bloom ; and we
well remember receiving some plants from one of the best growers, seven or
eight years ago, potted in nothing but leaf-soil and sand, and very loosely as-
well. These threw a few good blooms, and for a time looked well, but then
"ran out." Soon it was found that a little loam had a beneficial effect, and
the quantity has been gradually increased, until last year we. saw that one of
our first growers was potting his plants in what was apparently pure loam.

CULTIVATION IN POTS. 51

without any admixture whatever. There is not the least doubt that a
loamy soil affords more substance to the plants, and develops a dwarfer,
sturdier growth than lighter stuff, as well as prolonging the flowering period
considerably, although the plants are longer in "getting hold" of, or rooting
out thoroughly in such material, and require, perhaps, more careful culture
to induce them to do well in it. But once a good Begonia is fairly rooted
and established in a firm but porous soil, consisting principally of loam, it
developes in a substantial staple of this kind a sturdy and branching habitr
and a freedom and fineness of flower, to which plants loosely potted in leaf-soil
or peat cannot for a moment compare.

OPEN STAGES — WATERING — " DAMPING," ETC.

WHEN fairly in growth, the plants must be removed from the bottom heat,
and transferred to a more airy position. As a rule, Begonias for ordinary
decorative purposes, for bedding, or the like, do better on an open stage-
made of laths or boards placed a slight distance apart, so that a current of
air, or rather a gentle movement, can take place all round and between the
plants. But in the case of those intended to be grown on to a large size,
for specimens, etc., a more vigorous though not so firm a growth takes place
if they are afforded a position,- not on, but slightly elevated above (by means-
of inverted pots, or the like) a bed of damp spent hops or coco-nut fibre,,
preferably the former, and of course in a genial temperature. Very forward
plants, again, for early flowering, will do better on a high shelf close to the
glass than anywhere else, and thus placed we have, over and over again, had
plants literally droopping down with fine blooms all round. "Watering must
of course be most carefully attended to under these conditions. "When the
plants are advancing into bloom, they appear to prefer a place on an open
stage to a solid bed of any kind, the free circulation of air thus afforded
not only inducing a very floriferous condition, but causing the blooms to last
longer and to a great extent obviating anything in the way of damping off or
decaying of the stems, which is sometimes troublesome where moisture hangs-
about the plants, or in dull or wet weuther. During the earlier stages of
growth they do not seem to any extent liable to damping, but after they
attain a considerable size a single drop of water remaining on stem or leaf
during the night, or at any time for more than two or three hours, will often
set up decay, which will spread until the entire branch is destroyed. The only
way to prevent this occurring is to keep the atmosphere of the house con-
stantly on the move, by means of a gentle warmth in the pipes during dull
or wet periods, and also on cool nights, especially towards autumn, when the
nights get long and often foggy; at the same time afford abundant ventila-
tion, whenever safe, avoid wetting any part of the plants, and also restrict
the amount of atmospheric moisture during the latter part of the day.

On the whole, Begonias prefer a house naturally somewhat dry, to one of a.

52 THE TUBEROUS BEGOXIA.

damp nature ; any desired amount of moisture can always be supplied arti-
ficially, and thus a house built entirely above the ground level, or even
slightly raised above it, is to be preferred to a sunken structure. -Again, a
lofty house suits these plants much better than a low one, particularly
•during the flowering period.

THE THIRD POTTING — TEMPERATURE — VENTILATION, ETC.

DIRECTLY the plants again require it, they must be again re-potted ; this
time probably into the flowering-pots. Those now in 48's (5-inch pots) will,
as a rule, require what is called 24's, which are about 7J inches in diameter,
though any examples which are now very strong had better be allowed only
6-inch pots than run any risk of over-potting. Some of the larger tubers,
which were started in about 4 -inch sizes, and which are now in 32's, may
very likely need No. 16's^ or pots 9 or 10 inches across. If the plants have
been attended to as directed they should by this time be in a very vigorous
and active condition, with stout short-jointed shoots, and abundance of
large deep-hued foliage well down on the pot. The roots also should, on
turning the plants out of the pots, appear strong, and at this stage not very
numerous, but large, with solitary spongioles, furnished with an abundance
of long white hairs and a clean, active-looking point, very distinct from the
many-branched fibrous roots that occur later on. For this shift use much
the same compost as before, but in an even coarser condition, and this should
be made quite firm in potting ; use the rougher parts of the compost below,
and the fine near the surface, and make the upper part firmer than the
lower.

Up to this point, and indeed until the plants are pretty well rooted out
in the blooming-pots, any flowers that show should be picked off as soon as
seen. Should anything prevent the necessary shifting at any stage being
done at once, keep the vigour up by a few doses of soot-water or some other
stimulant, but the moment the large main roots reach the sides of the pots
and commence to run downwards, before they branch or run round the sides
of the pot at all, the plant ought to be removed into a larger size — that is,
if it is required to be grown on to a larger size. As growth advances, tie
each shoot out to a neat stake, placing these at equal distances, and so as
to admit as much air and light as possible to the centre of the plant, and
indeed to every leaf. Water, of course, will by this time be needed, and
must be given frequently and abundantly, though the supply must be restricted
somewhat after each potting has taken place. The temperature should range
from 60° to 65° by night, or never below 55° to 70° or thereabout by day.
Ventilation must altogether depend upon the state of ths weather outside ;
up to May little but top air will be needed, but this must be abundantly
given on bright days ; and the blind should be run down whenever the sun
becomes so strong as to make scorching probable. This point must be particu-

CULTIVATION IN POTS. 53

larly attended to after dull and damp or cold periods, but at the same time
inure the plants to as much light and sunshine as they can bear without
being injured. "When the roots have got well hold of the fresh soil, and are
feeling the sides of the pots, the flower-buds will commence to rise freely, and
must now be allowed to develop themselves. Feed the plants twice a week
with weak soot, or cow or sheep -dung water, or use a solution of sulphate of
ammonia (or all these may be given alternately with good results) ; shade the
blooms slightly in the middle of the day, and tie them up, if necessary, tcr
neat stakes, and you will shortly reap the reward of your labours in a blaze
of beauty. One other slight point is worth touching upon : some dense-
growing plants are apt to get the rising buds caught beneath an obstructive
leaf. If this be not released the stalk will shortly snap right off, and a valuable
truss be lost, so look through the plants occasionally and prevent any mishap-
of this sort.

TREATMENT OF THE PIANTS WHEN IN BLOOM.

A ROCK upon which many otherwise good growers split, is keeping their
Begonias, when in bloom, too close and warm ; this is a grand mistake, for
though Begonias like — indeed, one might almost say revel, in a genial atmo-
sphere, there can be no doubt that anything over 80° does more harm than
good, unless, perhaps, accompanied by an unlimited amount of free air, and
sufficient shade. As an instance of this we may mention that we have very
frequently been through show houses filled with plants of superlative excel-
lence, and fitted with every modern convenience, but kept so close and warm,
as to give more the impression of a stove than a greenhouse. The result is-
certainly a very fine development of the flowers, as far at least as size goes, but
the blooms have not the substance they ought to have, and the plants soon
"run out" and become exhausted, while a spell of bright or hot weather causes
the blooms to "scorch" or wilt round the edges (though heavily shaded), to-
the great detriment of their appearance. In other places, where the plants
are grown cooler, and with abundance of air, not only are they stiffer and
more bushy, but both these and the individual blooms last twice the time,
and are more abundant, richer in colour, and possess more substance ; they
seldom or never flag or scald, and require much less shading. Undoubtedly
anything of the nature of a confined and heated atmosphere is injurious t6
Begonias when in bloom. All overheated air must pass away at once and
entirely, or the flowers, if not the plants themselves, will suffer. It therefore
follows, and the theory is abundantly confirmed by practice, that when
in bloom, if at no other time, a lofty structure will suit these Begonias
better than a low one, that a tolerably steep-pitched roof is better than a
flat one, and that abundant roof-ventilation is a sine qua non in any case.

If there are ventilators at the side of the house so much the better, as they
vrill be found of great benefit on warm nights and still, hot days, when

54 THE TUBEROUS BEGONIA.

a quiet current of air right through the plants will be found to strengthen
them wonderfully. We have often had occasion to turn a batch of plants —
usually young seedlings — out-of-doors, placing them on a bed of ashes in a
slightly sheltered position. This has generally been towards autumn, and
though not protected from the weather, such plants have always — the air being
tolerably genial — shortly gained a strength and stiffness, and thrown a mass of
stout, large, and richly coloured flowers, such aa are seldom seen under glass.
Plants so treated always produce firmer and larger tubers than those that are
grown inside altogether. In short, everything points to the conclusion that
these plants during the later stages of growth, cannot be too fully subjected
to an unlimited amount of fresh air. In or near large towns, however,
where the air is laden with smoke or dirt, it is not advisable to expose
them fully, except perhaps for a short time when the flowering is over ; at
all other times a slight protection, if only to preserve the purity of the
blooms, is desirable. It may be as well to add that the purity of the air,
as well as the % openness of the situation, has a considerable effect upon these
Begonias. "With equal care and skill in cultivation, not only will the blooms
produced in a favourably situated country-place be larger and finer in eveiy
way, but the plants themselves will be dwarfer, stiffer, and more floriferous
than those grown in town gardens. Not only has the purity of the atmo-
sphere a great effect, but the clearness and freedom of light, unobstructed
by smoke or fogs, is a very important factor in the production of dwarf sturdy
plants and finely developed blooms. Begonias are pre-eminently light-loving
subjects, in proof of which witness the superiority of the growth and flowers
produced during the long days, and in the abundant sunshine of the summer
and early autumn months, as compared with that of either very early or very
late plants.

AFTER FLOWERING. — RIPENING THE TUBERS.
\

AFTER flowering, the plants should be hardened off or ripened by being stood
out-of-doors, fully exposed to sun and air, and receiving a sparing supply of
water until the foliage has perished, or nearly so, when no more should be
given. Any plants that were got into bloom early may, if required to come
jn again later on, be cut back more or less closely, after having been slightly
ripened by exposure ; and if, when the wounds are healed, they are taken back
into a house or roomy pit, kept rather close for a time, syringed occasionally,
and when they have broken again, either re-potted or top-dressed, and grown
on subsequently in the usual way, they will bloom again profusely during the
autumn, though the blooms must not be expected to be so fine as at first.

All plants in pots that may be standing outside late in autumn should be
moved under cover at the first sign of frost, for though, when planted out,
Begonias will stand a considerable amount of cold without the tubers being

CULTIVATION IX POTS. OO

injured, yet this is no criterion for those in pot£, which, when once frozen,
will generally be afterwards found to have perished.

"When they are thoroughly ripened and the tops have died down, the tubers
should be carefully shaken out of the soil in which they grew, taking care in
rubbing off the surrounding soil not to break the skin of the tuber, if
possible, which at this stage is decidedly tender. Ordinary mixed varieties
may safely be put, to the number of several hundreds, or even some thousands
together, into a box with a little half-dry coco-nut fibre among them ; choice
named or marked tubers should be placed in separate pots for each variety,
with a handful of fibre round them, and the label stuck inside the rim.
Some cultivators winter their ^bulbs in the pots in which they grew, laying
them on their sides under a greenhouse stage, or elsewhere ; but they are
better shaken out, as they can thus be occasionally looked over with ease,
removing any that are decayed, and at the same time moistening them
slightly, if inclined to become shrivelled, or spreading them out for a time
to dry if too much moisture exists. In any and every case, the tubers
should be placed where frost is regularly and thoroughly excluded, a tem-
perature ranging from 40° to 50P being most suitable during the resting
period.

Dropping of the buds or blossoms is sometimes very troublesome in the
culture of these Begonias. This fault is more apt to occur among the
yellow-flowered varieties and some whites than in the red-coloured kinds,
though some pink and rose-coloured plants (and these often of the finest
form and hue) are also subject to it. In some cases this is caused by an
unhealthy state of the plants or a want of activity at the root, which may
result from careless or mistaken treatment. Sudden chills or changes of
atmosphere will also often produce this effect, but in many cases the fault
is constitutional and cannot be remedied. Such plants should be thrown
away, as they are not worth growing, and no seed should ever be saved from
them.

"We have found the yellow-flowering Begonias on the whole less vigorous
than the others, excepting perhaps a few of the white varieties. They there-
fore need rather more careful cultivation to do them justice, and they seem to
succeed better in a rather higher temperature than the rest, and where any
draught or current of air is absent.

56 THE TUBEROUS BEGONIA.

DOUBLE-FLOWERING BEGONIAS.

jmr LEGANT, graceful, and generally valuable for almost any purpose as the
4^ single-flowered Begonias undeniably are, they are, as we believe anyone
d^> really conversant with them will readily allow, even surpassed in beauty,
and in some respects in value, by the double varieties as they now exist. The
extraordinary capability of improvement in every point that constitutes a
floral gem of the first water, by means of skilful and persevering hybridisa-
tion, which is one of the most noteworthy characteristics of the Begonia, is
even more marked, and has already been more amply demonstrated in the
case of the double kinas than among the singles. Year by year most
decided, and in some cases almost incredible advances in size, form, colour,
habit and vigour have been, and continue to be accomplished by more than
one of our leading horticulturists ; and season by season such steady and
sure steps towards perfection are made, as to render it entirely impossible to
say, or even guess, when, if ever, such a consummation will be attained.
Comparatively few persons are yet aware what surpassing beauty many of
the newer forms of these charming flowers possess. There are now in the
hands of a few of the most skilful growers of Begonias> varieties producing
blooms vying with those of the Rose, the Camellia, Hollyhock and Ranun-
culus in size, colour and beauty, and in form resembling each of these, with
the addition of still different arrangements of petals and florets. Indeed, in
the course of another year or so we may expect to see blooms the size of a
Pseony, and of every shade of colour but blue.

As has been before remarked, the blooms of good double Begonias- are of ;i
remarkably enduring character, the same flower often remaining in beauty for
a month, or even longer, provided it has been allowed to develop slowly in
a comparatively cool and thoroughly airy atmosphere, and well protected from
the effects of strong sunshine. But on the whole the double forms do not
continue to bloom for so long a period as the singles, except perhaps in the
case of a few varieties possessing exceptionally vigorous constitutions, and
producing only moderate-sized flowers ; this is accounted for by the fact of
the large and very double blooms being very exhausting to the plant, and in^
general three or four successive sets of flowers will be as much as even a
strong example can produce : after that, the plant either ceases blooming or
throws only a few poor flowers, often only semi-double.

DOUBLE-FLOWERING VARIETIES.

BEGONIA VIRGINALIS. Hollyhock type. (See p. 58.)

58 THE TUBEROUS BEGONIA.

THE \VARIETY OF FORM.

The blooms of double Begonias vary considerably in form and in the arrange-
ment of the petals. Some have flowers similar in shape to those of a Holly-
hock, consisting of an outer row of wide "guard-petals," with a mass of
irregularly formed smaller and shorter petals in the centre (see p. 65). This
is a very fine class, often affording blooms of the largest size, and very double
and full. In some varieties, the central mass of petals after a time develops
sufficiently to hide the guard-petal, and the bloom then becomes about two-
thirds of a ball of thickly crowded petals (see p. 63). The colour of this class
of flower is generally some shade of red. Scarlet Perfection, Virginale, white,
(see illustration, p. 57), Lord Randolph, Duchess of Teck, and Clovis are good
examples of this class.

Others, again, resemble a Camellia in form and the arrangement of the petals,
which are wide and well rounded, and reflex one over the other in almost
precisely the style of the old white Camellia (Alba plena). This class has but
recently been developed— within the last three or four years only. The blooms
are not, as" a rule, so large as those of the last-named section, but they are
exquisitely beautiful in every way, and are being added to and improved
yearly. White, cream, and blush shades appear to be the prevailing colours
among this class, though there are now a few of deeper hues. The first of
this form, or approaching thereto, were Madame Comesse and Madame de
Dumast, introduced from the Continent. These have, however, been put in
the shade by Alba magna and others, and particularly by the latest novelty
in this section, raised by Mr. Laing, and which has this season been twice
certificated — the crimson flowered-Camellia (see p. 89).

A few doubles possess blooms similar in form to that of a half-opened Rose,
or--a Tea, when just in perfection. Queen of Doubles, a rich rosy crimson, is
the best example of this class, though several of the hybrids from "Davisi,"
notably Davisi hybrida fl. pi., Davisi superba, etc., very nearly approach this
form. Most of these are of deep colours, shades of scarlet and crimson pre-
dominating. Others, again, more nearly resemble a Paeony in shape and size
than anything else, and though none are quite so large as a well-grown
Peeony. yet a few, when in good condition, come not far short in this respect.
Two of the best in/ this class are Pseonise flora and Mrs. J. L. Macfarlane,
both with enormous blooms when well grown.

The flowers of others, again, very closely imitate those of the Ranunculus,
though possessing greater substance, and in some cases being larger. These
are exceedingly beautiful, many of the newer hybrids being of the softest
and richest shades of orange, salmon, rose, scarlet, and crimson ; and as we
have now several varieties in this class of a very dwarf compact habit, with
the blooms held perfectly erect on stiff foot-stalks, the likeness to what
might be termed a glorified Ranunculus becomes very striking. Madame
Crousse and Mrs. Frost may be cited as examples of this form.

DOUBLE-FLOWERING VARIETIES.

BEGONIA FELIX CROUSSE. Camellia type. (See p. 58.)

Yet another class afford a most striking peculiarity, every bloom consisting
of a number of individual florets, each, separate and distinct, and on its own
foot-stalk. During the earlier stages this is not so noticeable, but as the
bloom develops each floret grows in size and distinctness, while the foot-
stalks lengthen considerably, and when fully expanded the whole forms not
one, but a perfect bunch or cluster of distinct and separate flowers. A
perfect example of this type is Mr. Laing's variety, named Glow (see p. 61), a
very fine bright scarlet, the male flowers of which have become double in a
very singular way. The segments of the perianth are comparatively small, and
hidden behind the curiously monstrous stamens, which constitute the doubling.

60 THE TUBEROUS BEGONIA.

The latter have not merely become petaloid, filling up the centre of the
flower, but they have developed branches from their axils, resembling small
double flowers in the axils of petaloid bracts, which were originally the
anthers. These secondary flowers, or florets as they might be termed, are-
stalkless, or nearly so when the primary flower commences to expand, and
the whole presents the appearance of a dense or compact and very double
flower. Expansion goes on, and we have something like a large truss of a double
Pelargonium of bright scarlet colour, and measuring over 3 inches in diameter.
At this stage the secondary rosettes or florets have stalks about half an inch
in length, but as the whole truss gets older, the stalks elongate, until the
original flower appears like a raceme of small double flowers.

THE ERECT-FLOWERING SECTION.

UP to quite recently all double-flowering Begonias produced only pendulous,
blooms ; in fact, the habit of nearly all of these was of so drooping a char-
acter that they were constantly recommended and grown as basket plants, a
purpose for which most of the drooping-habited Varieties are eminently
suitable. But some five or six years ago, principally, we believe, as a
result of crossing the dwarf-habited B. Davisi and some of its hybrids with
the doubles then existing, plants of a very compact habit, and bearing
medium-sized blooms held nearly or quite erect, began to appear ; and these
being carefully manipulated by hybridists have received so many improve-
ments and additions that we have now a large number of varieties of this
description. And unquestionably the newer and more improved introductions,
in this class are among the most striking and beautiful of the whole family.
Some of the finest of this class, with erect double flowers, are Scarlet Per-
fection, Madame Dubois, orange -scarlet ; Mdlle. Hachette, bright pink ;.
Virginale and Little Gem, white ; Suzanna Hachette, rosy pink ; Canary
Bird and Lady Hulse, bright yellow ; and Marquis of Stafford, deep car-
mine-crimson.

This class we consider to be an even greater gain than the erect-flowering
singles, and there cannot be a shadow of a doubt that there is a greater
future before them ; indeed, this may safely be affirmed of the whole race of
double Begonias in their present form, to say nothing of future improve-
ments. Though not so successful out of doors as the singles, undel- glas&
we believe they will prove ip be even more valuable, from the greater sub-
stance and attractiveness of the blooms, as well as their more extended range
of form and extraordinary enduring character. The colours of many doubles
are now quite as rich as anything to be found among the singles, though we
have not yet obtained crimson flowers of so deep a shade ; but the lighter
shades of blush, cream-pink, and salmon tints are considered by many to-
be even more delicately beautiful.

DOUBLE-FLOWERING VARIETIES.

BEGONIA GLOW. Double Pelargonium type. (See p. 59.)

The plants of double-flowering varieties are, however, as a rule not possessed
of so much vigour as the singles, requiring an extreme amount of care,
cleanliness, and high cultivation to bring them to perfection ; but there is
hardly a plant in the whole range of horticulture that will so well repay
care and petting as this. The foliage of the double forms is smaller and
the stems are finer, almost invariably; but as they are also firmer or more
"twiggy" in character, propagation by means of cuttings is rendered much
more easy than in the case of the singles.

POTTING AND COMPOST, ETC.

THE tubers are started in exactly the same manner as directed for singles
on p. 48, but as the roots of double kinds are finer and more fibrous, the
soil should not perhaps be of quite so rough a description, though it must
be thoroughly porous, and the plants should be potted somewhat more firmly,

62 THE TUBEROUS BEGONIA.

especially when growth has fairly commenced. The after culture is also very
similar -to that required by the single forms, though a slightly higher tem-
perature is advisable during the earlier stages, and early in the season if it
can be afforded. But under these or indeed any conditions, the fullest pos-
sible supply of light is absolutely necessary, as well as abundant room
between and around each plant while growth is being made, to the produc-
tion of dwarf and well-branched specimens and fine blooms.

As regards the most suitable compost, much the same kind of material as
has been recommended for the single varieties when grown for exhibition
(see p. 67) may be made use of here ; but as we have said, it should not be
used in quite so rough a state, and must be made somewhat firmer in the pots.
Loam of the best possible description, leaf-soil and sand are the principal
ingredients, and a compost made up of about three parts of the former to-
two of the latter, and half a part of saiid with a little crushed charcoal and
granular coco-nut fibre will be found to suit these plants admirably in all
stages, or of any size. Manure, however thoroughly decayed and sweet, we-
do not recommend, though a very small portion may be used for large
plants of a vigorous nature. Peat may be used 'in default of leaf-soil —
indeed, should the loam be at all inclining to a heavy nature, or deficient
in porosity or fibre, a third of good fibrous peat in addition to the leaf-
soil will be really advantageous. Decayed spent hops, in a sweet and flaky
state, we find very beneficial, and if such can be obtained, they may be used
in moderate quantity either instead of or in addition to the leaf-soil. Some
growers say they can dispense with sand, but unless the loam is of an extra-
ordinarily perfect description we should not like to pot these plants, particu-
larly if small or delicate-rooted, without any, and we have always found the
doubles succeed best with a rather liberal allowance of sand. Do not be
persuaded to use any strong artificial manures in potting ; these are quite
unnecessary, in fact, injurious in the early stage, and when extra nourish-
ment is required it can be readily supplied, as necessary, in the form of liquid
manure.

A shelf near the glass in a well-heated structure is undoubtedly the best
place for plants in the early part of the season, and the reason why Begonias
in baskets are usually so successful is probably owing to their being sus-
pended in full light, with abundance of fresh air all around them. After-
wards, when the heat of summer sets in, a place on an open stage, or slightly
raised on inverted pots or boards above a cool and moderately damp layer of
ashes or shingle, is more suitable and less parching than a shelf. In really
hot weather air can scarcely be admitted too freely, a close atmosphere being
fatal both to the plants themselves and to the size and endurance of the
blooms. At alt stages of the growth, however, air should be admitted
whenever safe, but in ungenial weather this must be done very cautiously, for
a cold draught or sudden chill will often administer a severe check.

DOUBLE-FLOWERING VARIETIES.

BEGONIA KOSAMONDE. Hollyhock type. (See p. 58.)

HINTS ON PROPAGATING.

PROPAGATION of double Begonias is, like the single kinds, effected by means
of both seeds and cuttings. The former process gives rise to all new
varieties, and though tedious, is a safer and better mode of increase than
the latter. The seed is to be sown at the same time and in the same manner
as that of the single flowers, though as it is of an even finer description, it
should be scattered on a still more even, fine, and carefully prepared surface.
Good double seed, however, germinates better and more regularly than that
from single flowers, and the young plants, though very slender and delicate*
looking, are not, we consider, so troublesome in a young state as singles.
When fit, prick them off, and grow on in exactly the same manner, and

64 THE TUBEROUS BEGONIA.

either pot on as required, or plant out of doors in a well-prepared bed to'
form tubers for next year's work. They must not be over-potted, and
unless sown early and grown on very strongly, it will be better to keep them
in 3£ or 4-inch pots the first season, though if they are forward and strong
they may have 5 -inch pots in June or July. "When well established in either
of these sizes they will bloom more or less freely, but if only two or three
flowers appear on those in small pots this will be sufficient to ascertain their
character, and they may be labelled and described in a note-book for growing
on next year. If the plants are forward enough to occupy 5 or 6-inch pots
before autumn, these will, however, bloom well, and make handsome plants.

But these double Begonias hardly ever show their true character the first
season from seed or cuttings either ; and, as a rule, the flowers will come two
or three times the size, or at any rate, very much .larger — often more double —
and finer in every way the second summer. In this respect they differ con-
siderably from the single form, which, if sown early as directed, and grown
along vigorously, make fine plants, bearing grand blooms the same year as
sown, though even these, we think, are at their best, and the blooms largest,
the second summer. Then it is that a really fine variety comes out
in its true colours, the growth being naturally stronger from the tuber
than from the seed. Nevertheless, very fine double blooms indeed have
been had on young plants from seed sown in the spring, the plants
being in 5-inch pots ; last autumn, in particular, some of these measured
3 inches, 4 inches, and in one case nearly 5 inches in diameter, though, of course,
there were only a few blooms on each plant.

It may here be as well to state, for the benefit of those who are not yet
acquainted with these lovely flowers, that only the male (or pollen-bearing)
blooms consist of more than the usual number of petals, the female or seed-
blossoms being invariably single, and, as in the case of the single kinds,
possessing only the usual five petals. Both the flowers and seed-pods of
double-flowering varieties are much smaller and more insignificant than those
of single-flowering plants, which are in some cases almost as handsome as the
male flowers.

The first doubles raised were very pale and sickly in colour, generally of a
washed-out pink, or dull red shade, and when a pare white, or what passed
for a white at that time, was introduced, it was considered a great stride.
For a long time all doubles of this colour were strongly tinted with yellow
or pink, and sometimes with green ; this is frequently the case even now
among seedlings. They were also small and badly shaped. The introduction
of Madame de Dumast and a few others gave a great lift, however, to the
character of these flowers, and though none of these were really white, yet
they afforded a pureness and delicacy of tint, and an elegance of form that
was previously wanting, and we have now, probably more or less directly
derived from these, large doubles of the purest snowy white, and of the

DOUBLE-FLOWERING VARIETIES.

BEGONIA MONS. TRUFFAUT. Hollyhock type. (See p. 58.)

most beautiful form. Blooms of such purity
form are, however, still comparatively scarce,
are difficult to obtain even from the largest
good time, and price be hardly an object,
perfectly double a flower is, the more difficult
it ; indeed, it may be fairly stated that
all by the very finest kinds. This causes
seedlings to be small, and every florist knows
plant is, not only is it a more difficult matter
to raise the young plant successfully becomes
•uncertain process.

of colour and excellence of

and first-class double whites

growers, unless ordered in

For naturally, the more

it is to obtain pollen from

no pollen is produced at

the proportion of first-class

that the more highly bred a*

to obtain seed from it, but

a much more delicate and

bb THE TUBEROUS BEGONIA.

To return a little. After a few years the deeper-coloured varieties began to
assume a much greater richness and brilliancy of tint, and the lighter varie-
ties gained a fineness and delicacy before wanting. For several years past we
have noticed a decided advance in this respect, each season affording plants
with blooms more and more nearly approaching true scarlet, , crimson, and
other shades. There are now varieties with perfectly double flowers, quite
as bright and rich as the dark single kinds.

Doubles with yellow flowers have hitherto been more scarce than those of
any other shade, and, in fact, until 1885 there was really no variety of this
class possessing any degree of size, form or purity of colour ; but during the
last year or two we have seen plants and blooms far in advance of anything
before produced. For a long time there was but one of this colour in
commerce (W. Kobinson), but this is now left quite in the shade ; and
doubtless having once made a start, doubles of this colour will rapidly be
improved, and probably before long will attain to as great a degree of
excellence as those of other hues. At the same time, these, like the single -
flowered yellows, are undeniably somewhat delicate in constitution, and
require skilful handling to succeed really well.

AS AN EXHIBITION PLANT. 67

BEGONIAS FOR EXHIBITION.

directions already given in the preceding chapter are equally appli-
cable here, but care must be taken to perform all operations in
connection with plants for show purposes with the utmost degree of
bare and particularity, and to have all materials for potting, etc., of
the very best quality obtainable. The thorough porosity and sweetness of
the compost are, on the whole, the most important points, richness, unless
it is combined with the last-named quality, not being so indispensable, for
nourishment can always be supplied when requisite by applications of liquid
manure of various descriptions. At the same time a soil of a really poor
description is not to be recommended, and if the loam to be used is wanting
in "heart" it will be advisable to lay it up in the rough for twelve months-
or more, with a moderate amount of short, fresh stable manure laid in between
each layer ; the ammonia and other fertilising properties will then thoroughly
permeate the soil, and greatly improve its quality. If, when potting, any part
of the manure should be found to be not thoroughly decayed it should be
rejected ; but if the proportion be small, and the stuff has laid a couple of
years or so, this will not be necessary. As before remarked, a loam of a
fine sandy nature is not so good as one of a granular or slightly adhesive
texture, as it is apt to "run together," and perhaps become water-logged.

To three parts of the loam add, for young plants that are to be gr»wn on
rapidly, two parts of leaf-soil, sweet and well-rotted, and if the plants are-
large add one part of very old flaky hot-bed manure, and from half a part
to a quarter of a part of clean coarse-grained silver-sand, according to the-
nature of the loam ; if this is somewhat sandy use a smaller proportion, if
inclined to be heavy, a larger one. A sprinkling of crushed charcoal, or
calcined bones, soot, and "Clay's," "Thomson's," or some other good fertiliser,
will render the compost almost perfect. If, however, bushy plants, a flori-
ferous habit, and a long continuance in bloom, are more of an object than
vigorous growth and a smaller number of large-sized blooms, it would be as
well to slightly reduce the proportion of leaf-soil and manure, and allow fully
three parts of loam to two of leaf-soil, decayed hops, or old manure, thereby
rendering the staple somewhat heavier, and also to pot the plants somewhat
more firmly. In potting, it is a general rule that the larger the plants anoV
the size of pots employed the more firmly must the soil be packed in ; that

68 THE TUBEROUS BEGONIA.

towards the surface should also he made rather firmer than the lower part,
and tfife rougher portion of the compost should he placed helow, and the finer
above. But, after all, the compost, though a matter of considerable im-
portance, is not everything, and the finest material in the hands of an
indifferent grower will by no means ensure success.

HEAT, MOISTURE, AND SHADING.

THE great matter is to induce, by the strictest attention to the daily and
•even hourly requirements of the plants, down to the smallest details, an
uninterrupted and vigorous progress from first to last, both of root and branch.
A good grower will attain this object with a soil composed of almost any
materials within certain limits, that will afford the right conditions.
Encourage a vigorous start by means of a suitable, but not extreme, amount
•of warmth below as well as above the plants, and by a sweet and fairly
moist atmosphere, and at no stage allow the roots to run far in search of
fresh nourishment, once they have reached the side of the pot, but afford the
requisite supply of fresh material before the plant has had time to feel the
want of it, and with abundant light and free but judicious ventilation,
success is almost certain. During the earlier stages the syringe may be
-advantageously, if moderately, used among the plants in bright weather, but
when advancing into bloom this must be discontinued, and the tissues
hardened and strengthened by a more full and free admission of air.

Shading should also receive particular attention. Hot sunshine occurring
suddenly after a dull period in the early part of the season will be almost
.sure to injure the young and tender shoots, unless they are protected from
its influence, and later on its effect on choice blooms will, if unbroken,
inevitably be to cause their edges to become scorched and black, if no more,
however sturdy the plants themselves may be. But if, as should be the
case, a moveable shading exists, care must be taken to remove it directly the
sun has sunk so low as no longer to be dangerous. As before stated, an
abundant admission of "top" air, by means of the roof ventilation directly
the temperature rises, by sun or artificial heat, above a certain safe point, will
go far to preserve the blooms, as well as strengthen the plants themselves.

FEEDING WITH ARTIFICIAL MANURES.

FEEDING should be commenced in good time, but not before it is required,
-and this may be taken to be when the roots have fairly commenced
to run round the sides of the pot, and before anything like a pot-bound
state is reached. Many growers, not of Begonias only, but other plants as
well, seem to have an impression that no assistance is needed until a plant
is actually starving for want of it — a very erroneous idea. If the vigour is to
be kept up throughout, feeding should be commenced almost directly the

AS AN EXHIBITION PLANT. 0

roots have no longer fresh soil from which to obtain nourishment. A clear
infusion of sheep, horse or cow manure will be found to induce a vigorous
growth and fine foliage. Soot-water (clear of course) will impart a deep rich
colour to the foliage, and ensure a healthy condition. This is best made by
placing a small bag of soot, securely tied, in the cistern, or in a tub of
water, and stirring it up with a stout stick occasionally.

A solution of nitrate of soda, commencing with a quarter of an ounce,
and gradually increasing the strength to half an ounce to the gallon of"
water, greatly stimulates growth, and adds size to the blooms as well, but this
agent must be very carefully used, or more harm than good will result.
Sulphate of ammonia, of about the same strength, does not appear to affect
the growth or foliage much, but greatly increases the quantity and fineness of
the bloom, and is generally employed for "finishing off" almost all kinds of
florists' flowers. In the case of Pelargoniums, etc., it Jias a marvellous effect
in inducing an abundant inflorescence, and it is to a great extent by the skilful
use of this agent that the magnificent pot plants so abundant in the London
flower markets are produced. It has an almost equally good effect on tuberous
Begonias, but to secure the best results it should be administered as exactly,
carefully, and regularly as powerful medicine to a delicate child.

Where a high degree of excellence is required we would recommend an
alternation or rotation of, say, three of the above stimulants, or even of all
of them, giving, when the proper stage has been reached, a dose of soot-
water one day, with clear water at the next application, next time the sul-
phate of ammonia, with clear water again, then a decoction of sheep or
horse manure, and so on, giving the stimulant at every alternate watering,
using it weak at first, and gradually increasing the strength as the plants
advance and get accustomed to the dose.

Soft water alone should be used throughout, and this should be as nearly
as possible at the same temperature as the house at the time. To this end
a tank or cistern large enough to contain a full day's supply, or more, should
be provided, and if this be filled up overnight the water will be about right
for using the next day, though if it can stand a whole day so much the
better. A good plan is to have spouting fixed along the eaves on both sides-
of the house, discharging into a large cistern 'inside, so that a supply of
rain water at the right temperature may always be at hand.

HINTS ON PACKING FOR TRAVELLING.

GHOWERS of Begonias have one disadvantage to contend with when exhibiting,,
in the fact that they do not travel at all well, and if they have to be taken
any considerable distance the plants often look very different when staged to-
what they did when they left home. But attention to a few important
points will go far to overcome this difficulty, and enable the plants to suffer
but little in the course of a moderate journey. First, the single-flowered.

70 THE TUBEROUS BEGONIA.

kinds may, as a rule, be moved much, more safely in the afternoon (if not too
hot) or evening than earlier in the day, for from sunrise until about noon the
blooms are fully expanded, and held comparatively erect, in which state they
are of course more easily injured than while they are more or less closed and
pendulous, as is always the case during the latter part of the day. In the
heat of summer this is very important, and plants removed during the cool
of the evening will, supposing them to have been carefully staked and tied,
and taken quietly in an easy spring van, stand a journey of some miles
with little or no injury, and if they can be staged and remain in a cool
moist tent during the night, generally look as fresh and bright as possible
again in the morning.

These remarks do not apply to the double varieties with nearly so much
force, as they do not pass through the same changes of condition as the
singles, and any time when the sun has not much power — either in the early
morning or in the cool of the evening — will be suitable for removing them.
Varieties bearing large and heavy blooms, whether double or single, naturally
suffer the most, and every one of such flowers must be tied up separately by
the footstalk to a neat stake, placing a little wadding round to prevent the
ties from cutting the stem ; if this be not done the weight of the blooms
will be sure to bend the stem, and perhaps snap it right off. On the other
hand, profusely and small-flowered plants carry best when the principal stems
only are secured, leaving the blooms to hang as they will, so that they do
not bruise by contact. Erect-flowering plants seem to stand removal better
than the others, if the shoots are supported by neat sticks, and care be taken
not to allow anything to touch the upturned petals.

When staged, untie all the blooms as far as possible, unless the stalks are
so much bent as still to require support, and remove all superfluous stakes,
for plants trussed and tied up tight present a most inelegant and unnatural
appearance.

CULTIVATION FOR LATE FLOWERING. 71

BEGONIAS FOR LATE AUTUMN
FLOWERING.

ONLY those who possess well-heated greenhouses, with every appliance for
affording the most suitable conditions, can have Begonias in bloom in
cfcp April or May, and they are only obtained so early by a large expenditure
of attention and fuel. Fortunately, these plants are so accommodating
as to adapt themselves to almost any conditions, and equally good, if not better
plants and blooms can be readily produced with a minimum of care and trouble
a little later in the season, under much more natural treatment ; and, indeed,
anyone possessing only an unheated glasshouse may have as fine Begonias during
July, August and September, as a millionaire with his acres of glass, miles of
piping, and army of gardeners. This capability of being grown, and grown well,
by all classes of horticulturists, is one of the strong points of the Begonia, and
is of itself sufficient to ensure popularity.

For late summer and autumn flowering — and it may safely be affirmed that
at this season plants will prove an even greater success, under simple treatment,
than those forced into bloom earlier, owing to the growth having enjoyed the
beneficial effects of more full, free, and natural light and air — the tubers will
need much less artificial heat to start them into growth, and may, indeed
must, where solar heat is the only dependence, be left to break at their own
time, without any artificial stimulus. If, however, a little warmth can be
applied, if necessary, all that are not above the ground by the end of April,
or the early part of May at the latest, should have a gentle heat, which will
speedily wake them up, supposing them to be sound and good. An unheated
house should, to afford really good results, be on a warm aspect — preferably
a lean-to or three-quarter span against a south wall, high and dry, or if a
span-roofed structure, it should run east and west, and be situated in an open
and sunny position. The heat of the sun must also be husbanded to the
utmost, particularly in the early stages, and again in the autumn, by very
careful ventilation, and by closing all apertures an hour or two before the
sun goes off the house.

The tubers should be potted in precisely the same manner as previously
directed (see p. 47), about April, but instead of placing them on a damp
bottom, a place on a dry front stage, or better still, on a high sunny shelf,

72 THE TUBEROUS BEGONIA.

«•

will tend to induce as early a start as may be. Maintain the soil in a barely
moist condition until growth has fairly commenced, then afford free supplies of
water. A moderate use of the syringe among the plants in the early part
of the day will assist them greatly, and a light sprinkle again a little before
closing the house on warm evenings in June and July will also be beneficial
before the plants come into bloom, but after this the plants should seldom be
wetted overhead, and any required amouDt of atmospheric moisture should be
supplied by damping the floor, stages, etc. The subsequent treatment, as regards
potting, shading, etc., is identical with that indicated in a previous chapter, —
but the requisite temperature will at this time of the year be readily
maintained without resorting to fire heat, and freer ventilation may be afforded
with benefit, remembering only that in all cases it is desirable to keep the house
somewhat close for a week or so after re-potting has taken place. Night air, if
given only at the apex of the roof, is very beneficial to these Begonias during
warm or sultry weather, and induces a sturdiness that cannot be attained in
houses shut up closely at night, besides being to a great extent a preventive
of damp.

MANAGEMENT IN AUTUMN.

IF hot-water pipes or any other heating medium exists, do not hesitate to
apply a little warmth during dull, cold or wet weather. Pipes are undoubtedly
a very great advantage in many ways, and this will be more than ever
evident towards autumn, when the long cool nights, decrease of solar heat,
and occasional wet fogs will have a very injurious effect upon plants in an
unheated house ; but a little heat, carefully applied, will counteract these
influences to a great extent, and enable the plants in a well-situated house
to continue in good flowering condition until quite late in the year. If the
house is, however, not heated in any way, the best must be made of the
circumstances, utilising sun-heat to the greatest extent, keeping the house,
floors and all surfaces as dry as possible when damp is troublesome ; and a,
slight covering of some kind, if only letting the blind down on cold nights,,
will be found to make a difference of several degrees.

Shading is a matter calling for a few remarks. Many small houses are-
not fitted with nioveable blinds, and though a handy man can fit one up for
a few shillings, yet there are many cases where such a convenience cannot
well be had. As a matter of fact, trade growers very seldom go to the-
expense of blinds, and some of the finest examples of not Begonias only, but
many other plants as well, are grown in house's where the only shading ever-
employed is a little whitewash. Indeed, we have never in any single instance^
seen moveable shading used in any market nursery, and without doubt
these establishments turn out the most perfectly grown and finished pot plants-
of all kinds that are to be seen anywhere. This whitewash shading, though
a very simple and useful expedient, is not nearly so good as a moveable blind..

FOR LATE AUTUMN FLOWERING. 73

but at the same time is preferable to a permanent shading of calico, tiffany
or scrim, for the first shower washes a large proportion of the whitening off
the glass, thereby admitting more light to the plants beneath. A little milk,
melted size or oil should be mixed with the whitening and water before being
applied to the glass, which will prevent it being too easily removed by rain
or wind. Putting the mixture on with a brush is the best method, when
the stuff should be mixed somewhat thicker than if it be spread with a
syringe.

At all times when the sun is not actually shining strongly every ray of
clear and unobstructed light that reaches the plants is of importance, and
imparts strength and vigour ; so that if the shading can be entirely removed
as soon as the actual necessity for it has passed away, so much the better.
As soon as the cool autumn weather sets in, and the blooms are no longer
able to develop properly, discontinue shading, and ripen the tubers by
withholding water to a great extent, and by keeping the atmosphere dry.
Under this treatment cold will not affect the plants injuriously to nearly so
great an extent. At this season, whatever watering is required should be
done early in the morning (10 or 11 a.m.) on bright days only, so that the
sun may disperse all superfluous moisture before nightfall. "When the tops
<lie down, shake the tubers out of the soil, and store away in some place
where frost is excluded.

To sum up, never coddle Begonias ; take as much care and pains with
them as you will, but all growth made must be made naturally — robust and
strong. Light and air are the great requisites ; they cannot have too much
of either. Remember that shading is only of use to preserve the blooms, and
to prevent the foliage scorching under glass in hot sunshine. In the open
air Begonias revel in a tropical blaze of light and warmth, so shade as little
as possible ; and the more air the plants receive the dwarfer and stronger
will the growth be, and the greater the size and substance of the flowers.
Where the air is pure we should not hesitate in the least to turn a batch of
plants in pots, for autumn blooming, straight out of doors, once they were
fairly rooting out, standing them on ashes to keep worms at bay. Such
plants brought into a light house towards the end of August would bloom
grandly during September and October.

74 THE TUBEROUS BEGONIA.

THE NEW RACE OF WINTER-FLOWERING
BEGONIAS.

Jl S briefly mentioned at p. 22, a new race of valuable winter-flowering
2ESL varieties has been obtained in the Messrs. Veitch's Nursery, by crossing

0^ Begonia socotrana with some of the best of the modern tuberous -
rooted varieties, and though neither B. socotrana nor the seedlings obtained
therefrom can, strictly speaking, be called "tuberous," yet this work would
be very incomplete without some reference to them.

For Begonia socotrana (of which we give an illustration on p. 75) British
horticulture is indebted to Professor Bayley Balfour, of Edinburgh, who
introduced it from the island of Socotra in 1880. Its stems are only of
annual duration, erect, fleshy, leafy, and usually attains a height of from 6 ins.
to 9 ins. During the course of growth scaly bulbils are developed around the
base of the main axis, and from these the plant is propagated and grown on.
The bulbils should be rested in summer, and re-started in September in heat.
It comes into flower in the short dull days of the waning year, and continues
in bloom for a long time. The leaves are dark green, peltate, orbicular,
concave in the centre with the edges rolled backward, and crenate, while they
measure 4 ins. to 7 ins. in diameter. The terminal inflorescence is loosely
cymose, bearing bright rose-coloured flowers ranging from 1^ ins. to 2 ins. in
diameter. The male perianth consists of four segments and the female of six.
The stamens have club-shaped anthers, and are arranged in small dense globular
clusters, while the bifid stigmas are horseshoe-shaped and not spirally twisted.
One angle of the trigonous ovary is produced into a wing ; the ovary is three-
celled and the placentas undivided.

CHARACTERISTICS or THE FIRST CROSSES.

WHEN the winter-flowering habit became established, horticulturists soon
perceived that by intercrossing this new species with the summer-flowering
tuberous Begonias it was possible that a very important race of winter-flowering
kinds would be obtained. The idea was acted upon, and a satisfactory
measure of success has resulted therefrom, though it must be acknowledged
that the progress made is rather slow. This, however, is not greatly to be
wondered at, seeing how different B. socotrana really is from the tuberous
Begonias of the New "World in its various botanical characteristics. The half-
dozen South American species from which the tuberous Begonias have sprung
all belong to one section or sub-genus, with the exception of B. boliviensis,

BEGONIA SOCOTRANA.

-75

BEGONIA SOCOTRANA. Introduced in 1880.

76 THE TUBEROUS BEGOXIA.

the typical or wild form of which differs in the structure and general appear-
ance of its flowers from the rest. B. socotrana is said to belong to the
African section, Augustia, from which it differs only in small and unimportant
characters, such as the male perianth consisting of four segments, in having
shorter filaments, in the six instead of five-lobed female perianth, and in the
untwisted arms of the style. These characters, with the exception of the
last, show B. socotrana to be closely allied to the pretty fleshy or tuberous -
rooted species, B. geranioides, from Natal. The annual character of the stem
of B. socotrana and the production of bulbils at its base are, independently of
the flowers, sufficiently strong features that militate against the free crossing
or interblending of the summer- flowering class with this Old World type. Add
to this that the placentas or seed-bearing organs of the former are deeply bifid
and often again lobed, while in B. socotrana they are entire, and the anthers
are club-shaped, so it may be granted that the difficulties of obtaining hybrids
between the two types are by no means a small matter. This may explain
the paucity of hybrids or crosses up to the present time ; but the fact should
not be allowed to damp the ardour of workers in this particular direction,
for it must be remembered that B. Sedeni, one of the first hybrids of any
importance amongst the South American group, was but a poor production
compared with the huge-flowered varieties which now exist. After a few
crosses have been made between B. socotrana and the summer-flowering
varieties, and these again have been intercrossed with one another, the
progeny may become as fertile as tT.e latter.

THE FIRST HYBRID RAISED — JOHN HEAL.

THE first hybrid, and taking all things into consideration, perhaps the
most important that has yet been obtained, was raised by Mr. John Heal}
one of the foremen in the nursery of Messrs. Veitch and Sons, and very
properly bears his name. Mr. Heal is one of the most zealous of hybridists,
though, perhaps, at present his labours amongst the Amaryllis or Hippe-
astrums, and his numerous hybiid greenhouse Rhododendrons, are better
known than his silent doings amongst the Begonias. Begonia John Heal
is the direct result of crossing B. socotrana (seed parent) with Viscountess
Doneraile (pollen parent), itself the result of crossing Monarch with the
hybrid B. Sedeni. The variety John Heal may then be tolerably safely
said to contain within itself the blood of three distinct botanical types or
sections, represented by B. socotrana (section Augustia), B. Sedeni (section
Barya), and Monarch (section' Huszia). It is very dwarf — almost stemless, in
fact — with the foliage crowded together, and almost lying on the surface of
the soil in which the plant is grown. The leaves individually are obliquely
heart-shaped, slightly lobed and crenated at the margin, of an intense deep
green colour, and of great substance. The branches of the inflorescence
spread gracefully above the foliage, bearing a profusion of bright rosy carmine

NEW WINTER-FLOWERING VARIETIES.

BEGONIA JOHN HEAL. Socotrana x Viscountess Doneraile.

flowers, that hang on the plant till they shrivel. Botanically, one of the
most interesting peculiarities about the plant is that it produces male flowers
only, as may be seen from the illustration above. The plant was first
exhibited on October 13th, 1885, when it was certificated by the Floral
Committee of the Royal Horticultural Society.

78 THE TUBEROUS BEGONIA.

THE LATEST VARIETIES.

THE Messrs. Veitch have also two other varieties, which are being propa-
gated for sending out, and which will undoubtedly become popular and
lead in time to the production of still finer forms. These are Adonis (which
was certificated by the Floral Committee in November, 1887) and "Winter
Gem, which was first exhibited at the same time. Adonis was obtained by
crossing one of the tuberous varieties with the pollen of John Heal, and,
like that variety, has the peculiar habit of producing no female blooms.
Its flowers are half as large again as those of John Heal, and of a bright rose
colour. Winter Gem, which bears crimson-scarlet flowers, was obtained by
crossing B. socotrana with the pollen of one of the fine scarlet-flowered tuberous
kinds, and more closely resembles its seed parent in its habit of growth and
rounder leaves.

These fine subjects commence flowering in October and November, and
continue onwards during a great part of the winter. The varieties John
Heal and Adonis have the great merit of being easily propagated by cuttings,
but Winter Gem has to be increased in the same way as B. socotrana.

AS A BEDDING PLANT. 79

BEGONIAS FOR BEDDING, OR PLANTING
IN THE OPEN GROUND.

YN many places, where soil and situation are favourable, the tubers may
A safely remain in the ground during ordinary winters, and will break up
^ naturally and strongly again in spring, but this only applies where the
soil is light, dry, and well drained, and the position is comparatively
warm and sheltered. In cold or damp soils, or on bleak and ungenial aspects,
not only will the roots of these Begonias be liable to injury from severe frosts,
but will also be so late in starting into growth as to lose a considerable part
of the summer before coming into bloom. In most cases it therefore becomes
necessary to take up the tubers annually on the approach of winter, and
preserve them under cover until spring, when they may be started into
growth under glass, and again planted out.

As in the case of plants for cultivation in pots, so here also we should
almost invariably recommend the use of seedlings either in mixture or
selected to colour, as may be desired, in preference to named varieties, the
only exceptions being a few well-known and proved sorts to be employed
where any particular shade of colour or exact uniformity is required. Among
those that may at all times be safely depended upon for this purpose are : —
Ball of Fire, bright orange-scarlet ; Diversifolia, bright rose colour (stands in
Devonshire without being lifted) ; Emperor, orange-scarlet ; J. A. Clarke,
dark rose, large ; J. W. Ferrand, bright vermilion ; Lady H. Campbell, light
pink ; Vesuvius, bright orange, free. All these have capital constitutions,
and will not only do well in the open air, even in unfavourable seasons, but
will endure being propagated largely from cuttings without deterioration,
which is a very important matter.

SMALL versus LARGE PLANTS.

IN getting Begonias started into growth, with a view to planting them out-
of-doors, there are two different systems or plans of going to work, one being
adopted when it is merely desired to have the plants fairly started and in growth
by the time they must be put out, which in most cases is about the first week
in June, at the same time as the majority of other half-hardy and tender subjects.
The other system is to be followed when large plants in full bloom are to

80 THE TUBEROUS BEGONIA.

be employed, so as to make a display at once. Many amateurs, do not
seem satisfied unless there is at least a fair amount of colour on plants at
the time they are put out, and in some cases an immediate effect is required ;
but though, on the one hand, it is very unwise, and a sign of bad manage-
ment when the beds have to be filled with little half-grown scraps that will
not bloom for a month or more after being planted, yet we are strongly of
opinion that, at least in the case of Begonias, the other extreme is nearly
as bad, and that the practice of putting out large plants in full flower is, in
most cases, far from good gardening. A check follows, and a season of
comparative rest, at least from flowering, ensues, often causing a partial blank
in the succession of bloom just at the time it should be most profuse.

The reason is obvious. Almost all plants that have arrived at the flowering
period have practically almost ceased growing, and the pots are filled with
fine many-branched roots, while their natural inclination is to continue to
bloom as long as possible, and then go to rest. If at this stage they are turned
out into an unlimited supply of fresh material, they are compelled, as it were,
to begin all over again — fresh roots of a coarser description are produced,
growth again commences, and continues until the' plants have to some extent
filled the surrounding soil with fresh fibres, when bloom is again produced.
This is certainly the case with the tuberous Begonia, though some subjects,
such as the shrubby Calceolaria, may not suffer much, as this is one of the
plants that go on growing and flowering simultaneously and continuously.
Pelargoniums, also, of the Zonal class are not injured to any great extent by such
treatment ; but turn a Fuchsia in full bloom out of its pot into a bed of soil, and
see what the result will be. No ; the way to obtain a good bed of Begonias is
to turn the plants out — properly hardened, of course — while they are in full
growth and there are yet few if any buds visible ; while the pots should not
be crammed with roots, but these comparatively few and large, rather than
numerous and fine. Planted out at this stage, they will grow right away,
and make large handsome bushes, full of vigour, and bloom strongly and pro-
fusely. In any case, they should not be planted later than when the first
few flower-buds are rising or expanding.

STARTING THE TUBERS.

SUPPOSING the plants are to be put out in a small state — say when not
more than 4 to 6 inches high— out of 3 or 4 inch pots, which will
be large enough for tubers the size of a walnut, or less ; the roots should be
potted towards the end of March, or early in April, using any light open
loamy soil (see p. 47). They will probably start into growth some time
during April, in an ordinary greenhouse temperature, but should the season
be backward, or the young growth not appear by the end of this month,
they had better be subjected if possible to a gentle warmth, which will soon
move them. Of course they must have very little water for some time,

FOR BEDDING OUT. 81

especially if in a low temperature, but once growth has fairly commenced,
keep the soil moderately moist, shade only from strong or sudden sunshine,
and during May gradually inure the plants to an abundance of air. The
last week or two had better be passed in a cold frame, with the lights
always more or less drawn off, according to the weather, so that they may
feel the change to open ground and air as little as possible. In favourably
situated places, or on a warm south aspect, the tubers will usually start
readily without any artificial heat, if placed in a cold house or pit, or even
in an ordinary box frame, facing south, and in the latter case it will be
advisable to stand the pots on boards raised off the ground, so as to catch
all the sunshine ; they may remain here uatil planting-out time, with an
increased amount of air as the season advances. Any strong or forward
plants that appear to require it should be shifted into larger pots, for it is
very detrimental to permit anything like starvation in the early stages.
But if the plants are to be full grown, or nearly so, and in bloom when
bedded out, they must of course be started earlier, say early in March,
placing them in heat, and growing and potting them on as directed for
decorative plants (p. 48). Harden them off slightly, and put out about the
first of June.

PREPARING THE BEDS AND PLANTING.

WHILE the plants are growing, the preparation of the beds must be seen
to. Any good garden soil will grow Begonias, if it is fairly well drained
and not too heavy or too poor. A sound loamy staple is to be preferred,
but this is by no means absolutely necessary. A worn out rubbishy or dusty
soil is about the worst, for even clay can be brought into something like
condition by liberal dressings of lime, ashes, etc., and by exposure to frost, or by
burning; but poor rubbishy stuff must have a large addition of good "fat"
stable or farmyard manure and good loam ; pond mud is often very useful
on this description of soil, as affording the necessary "holding" or
retentive properties. In any case the beds or borders must contain a
sufficiency of nourishment, but it would be very unwise to work in a lot
of fresh rank stable manure just before putting the plants out. If such
material is obliged to be used, it should be applied in the autumn, and
either be dug in at the time, or early in the spring. Any manure used
just previous to planting should be thoroughly decayed and sweet. If the
staple is at all heavy or close we would recommend the addition of leaf-soil,
half-rotted spent hops, or very old flaky stuff from a worn out hot-bed, with
some road drift or scrapings if sand is deficient. Stable manure composed
of shavings is to be obtained in some places ; this lightens clayey soils
admirably, as well as being very sweet. Medium soils can have nothing better
than Avell-rotted stable manure, or hot-bed stuff of the previous year,
which usually consists of manure and leaves mixed. Light soils must be

82 THE TUBEROUS BEGONIA.

dressed with good loam, mud, spit manure, or anything of a rich alluvia,
nature, as before stated.

Set the plants out in the usual way, with the crown of the bulbs not more
than 2 or 3 inches beneath the surface, and press the soil round the ball
firmly, leaving the surface somewhat rough. It is perhaps as well, before
planting, to slightly break the ball, or at least loosen it round the sides with
a pointed piece of stick, especially should the roots be at all matted, but
this ought not to be the case. The soil must be kept moderately moist after
planting is done, and if hot weather should set in, and the plants are small,
watering must be regularly attended to, at least until the roots have pene-
trated to the damper stratum beneath the surface. In the open air Begonias
are never troubled with the damping off that so often occurs under glass,
and when necessary a good soaking in the evening of hot days will refresh
them wonderfully. Use a rosed pot, and give a heavy shower overhead,
leaving everything dripping ; when the blooms are half closed, as they are
in the evening, it will not hurt them in the least. Like many other sub-
jects, should the weather prove cold or very dry after they are put out, they
will probably appear to stand still for a time, but a warm shower or two
will give them a start, and the beds will, shortly be perhaps not a blaze,
but will give a constant succession of bright and beautiful blossoms. "When
in bloom, seed-pods are produced in great abundance, and as these rob the
plants of a large amount of strength, they should, as far as possible, be
regularly removed.

The best position for a bed of Begonias is in an open and sunny spot,
for, like all succulent-natured subjects, they are a sun-loving race ; but
they will succeed more or less well in most positions that are not too heavily
shaded. A row or two on a warm south border is usually a great success,
and on raised positions, such as rockwork, on old stumps, and the like, they
do well, provided the soil is fairly good and can be kept moist.

ARRANGEMENT OF THE PLANTS.

WHEN planted out of doors Tuberous Begonias can scarcely fail to look well,
arrange them how you will. A. bed of good mixed colours, ordinary seedlings,
has usually a very fine effect, but the habit of seedlings varies so much that
unless they are selected as to height the previous season, there is danger of
great irregularity in this respect. As a rule the orange-scarlet shades, and
some of the duller and coarser pink and red-flowering kinds run tall in
growth, some of these being very rampant. The richer scarlets, deep reds
and crimsons, especially of the newer and more improved classes, are often
very robust, but much more compact and branching in habit than the last.
Whites vary greatly ; some (especially the commoner kinds and those with
pink-tinted blooms) are very coarse and long in growth, but a really good

FOR BEDDING OUT. 83

pure white will generally possess a dwarf and floriferous habit, while those of
the "Alba floribunda" type form perfect little bushes, laden with small white
or creamy blossoms. Those with yellow flowers are almost invariably dwarf in
habit, particularly where the flowers are pure in colour and fine, and run more
to bloom than growth. But these have not on the whole nearly so much
vigour as the other colours, and unless planted only on a warm and favour-
able aspect, or in a favourable season, are not always so successful out of
doors as might be desired. Some of the most delicate and beautiful shades of
pink are very dwarf and branching ; but these, with some yellows, and even
whites, have an unpleasant tendency to drop the male blooms directly they
expand, and sometimes while in the bud. Careless or injudicious treatment,
or an unhealthy state by whatever cause induced — even sudden changes in
temperature — is often the cause of this fault, but some seedlings are constitu-
tionally affected in this manner, and if the fault is persistent, it is better to
throw the plants away.

The best plan is undoubtedly to purchase bulbs that have been carefully
selected and marked, not only as to colour, but as regards height, habit, and
even size and character of the flower ; or better still, to make the selection
yourself. The plants can then be arranged as desired, with a much better
prospect of obtaining a good result. When Begonias are planted in mathe-
matical order — in lines, circles, or the like, of distinct colours, in the same
way as Pelargoniums, Calceolarias, etc., the effect is not nearly so formal
and stiff as is the case with most other subjects, owing to the quaint and
graceful habit or style of these plants ; in fact they present an appearance
more nearly resembling that of the Fuchsia than any other plant, but with
more substance and colour. On the whole we scarcely think it is advisable
that large beds should be filled with Begonias alone, unless perhaps they
be very much varied in height, colour and size, and character of the
blooms. An artistically studied, but not too formal combination of these
and other subjects usually employed for bedding and sub-tropical gardening
will afford a much more pleasing effect, though small circular or fancy beds
entirely filled with one, two, or more colours of Begonias, matching or con-
trasting the shades as carefully as possible, are very desirable and effective.
But in these matters individual taste, though not infallible, goes a very long
way, and a combination that may be pleasing to one often strongly offends
the eye of another, though both may have the artistic taste more or less
strongly developed or cultivated.

SUITABLE PLANTS FOR COMBINATIONS.

PERHAPS a few suggestions for suitable combinations of Begonias with other
plants may not be out of place before closing this chapter. First, Begonias
and Marguerites (Paris Daisies) almost invariably go well together. We saw

84 THE TUBEROUS BEGONIA.

some time ago, on a long border facing south, a row of scarlet, crimson, and
pink Begonias, with a few whites among thorn, backed by a close line of the
large yellow Marguerite (Etoile d'Or). Behind the Marguerites were shrubs
interspersed with tall herbaceous plants, and the rows were here and there
broken by Roses, standard and dwarf. There were some low-growing plants in
front of the Begonias again, though we do not now remember what these
were ; but the general effect, particularly the contrast between the rich red
lines of the Begonias and the mass of golden Marguerites, which were most
profusely flowered, was simply grand.

Again, a bed of circular or other shape, filled with crimson Begonias, or
even with mixed shades of red, or red and pink-flowering varieties, with
moderate-sized plants of single-flowered yellow or white Marguerites, placed
among the former at intervals, looks remarkably well. The Marguerites, to
give the best effect, should be about twice the height of Begonias. The erect
starry white or yellow blooms -of the Daisies, standing up between the dark
drooping blossoms of the Begonias, form an admirable contrast. A bed of
dark Begonias, with young seedling plants of Nicotiana affinis dotted about
them, forms a contrast, and affords perfume as well as beauty. Strong-growing
Pentstemon*, too, scarlet, crimson, or purple-flowered, placed here and there
among a mass of white or light- coloured Begonias, show up well ; the latter
should be young plants, not much exceeding one foot in height, so that there
may be no danger of any of them overtopping the Pentstemons.

In fact, various arrangements and contrasts that may be formed by tha
use of Begonias in combination with other plants are literally endless, but
on the whole we do not think these elegant flowers ever show to greater
advantage than when associated with fine-foliaged tropical plants, as described
on p. 6.

To the above may usefully be added a brief notice of another section of
Begonias, which, though not tuberous-rooted, was introduced with special
recommendations as bedding plants by Messrs. Sutton and Sons, in July, 1885.
By crossing B. semperflorens and B. Schmidti, both fibrous-rooted species,
they obtained the pretty whitish pink-flowered variety, named Princess Beatrice,
which grows to the height of about 9 inches, has the green leaves and sturdy
habit of its first-named parent, flowers most freely, and is readily propagated
by division. This has since proved to be an admirable bedding plant. By
crossing a shrubby variety, with green leaves, spotted with white, selected
from some seedlings obtained from B. Rex, with the pollen of a light scarlet
tuberous-rooted variety — a seedling from B. Davisii — Messrs. Sutton and Sons
obtained about the same time a variety which they named Prince Henry, and
which was certificated by the Floral Committee on account of its dwarf
compact habit, and the freedom with which it produced its small bright red
blossoms. It had all the merits of a good bedding plant, but has, we believe,
been lost to cultivation.

FOR BEDDING OUT. 85

•v

PRESERVING THE TUBERS IN WINTER.

WHEN the flowering is over, and the tops have been touched by the first
slight frost, take the tubers up, having previously labelled and marked them
as to colour, height, etc., as a guide for the following season, and store them
away in pots or boxes, with a little half-dry coco-nut fibre around the tubers.
(See also p. 55.)

Should it be considered safe to leave them in the ground, each plant or
row of plants should, especially if the tubers are near the surface, be covered
with a heap of ashes, coco-nut fibre refuse, or moss, to a depth of six or
eight inches, which will exclude a considerable degree of frost. If, however,
the ground is likely to require fresh nourishment, it would be better to lay
on a few inches of short, partly-decayed manure, in a somewhat dry and
flaky condition, and over this some dry bracken or litter. This last can
be removed early in spring, and the manure then carefully forked in between
the plants, will be found to benefit them considerably.

86 THE TUBEROUS BEGONIA.

SEED SAYING AND HYBRIDISATION.

WHEN" the principles of cultivation are thoroughly mastered, down to
the minutest details, and the conditions necessary to ensure success

^? are rightly understood — not before— the ambitious and persevering
grower, be it of Begonias or any other subject, may enter the more
scientific and wider field of hybridisation; and supposing him to be pos-
sessed of the true florist's spirit, he will find the occupation of crossing
the different varieties, and raising seedlings from the resultant germs, a
most fascinating as well as an instructive and profitable amusement. But
until the secret of growing the plants to perfection, or nearly so, has been
learnt— until, in fact, the alphabet of floriculture has been mastered, it is
useless to attempt the more ambitious task — as useless and inconsequential
as it would be for a child to attempt to read before learning its letters,
or for a tyro to try to perform on an instrument before he has mastered
the notes and scales.

This much may be safely and most positively stated, that no flower we
possess will so surely and certainly — and, indeed, so quickly also — repay the
hybridist for any amount of care, thought and trouble that may be bestowed
on it, as the Tuberous Begonia. The process of fertilisation and seed
saving is really, like many other things, by no means difficult or intricate
when you know how to do it And once the principles have been grasped,
nothing can .be more fascinating and pleasing than, season after season, to
watch the successional expanding of the results of the previous year's labours,
and note the gradual but certain steps towards perfection that are gained,
which in their turn become the starting point for fresh endeavours and

THE PROPERTIES OF A SINGLE BEGONIA,

BEFORE proceeding farther, it may be as well to state the points of good
Begonias, or those qualities which it is the constant aim of growers to produce
in the highest degree.

Form is undoubtedly the most important. The circular form, with broad
overlapping petals, developed to the highest possible point, is^the standard of
perfection here, as in the case of the Zonal Pelargonium. The earliest
varieties had flowers composed of long narrow petals, forming what is termed

SEED SAVING AND HYBRIDISATION.

BEGONIA ROSE CELESTE. Improved form. (See p. 88.)

a loose bloom, that is, with spaces between each petal when the flower was
fully expanded. By degrees something better, as will be seen by reference to
the illustrations of the hybrids which succeeded B. Sedeni, was produced, while
the illustrations of Mr. Laing and Mr. Cannell's modern flowers in previous
pages give a pretty correct idea of the form of the finest circular blooms of the
present day. The roundness, regularity and finish of the petals, and, indeed,
of the whole bloom, each and all count for a great deal ; and it is also
necessary that a good flower should open well, that is to say, that the petals

88 THE TUBEROUS BEGOXIA.

should lie flat, or nearly so, when the bloom is fully expanded. Some
varieties assume a slightly cup-shaped form, and this is sometimes both
graceful and effective ; but a perfect bloom is as nearly flat as possible, while
anything more than a very slight reflex is quite inadmissible. If the petals
curl or twist in opening at all, the flower is quite spoiled, however fine in
ther respects

Colour may be taken as the next important point, and the clearer, richer,
and brighter this is, the more valuable the variety becomes. Years ago the
colours of Begonias were, as a rule, dull, pale, and sickly — at least, as com-
pared with what we have now ; and when the variety known as " J. H. Laiug "
was produced, it was considered a grand stride, and for some time was the
brightest scarlet or light crimson in cultivation. This has now been long sur-
passed, and we have plenty of varieties as rich and bright in colour as the
finest Zonal Pelargoniums, while in a few instances there is a depth and
velvety softness, or dazzling intensity of hue that is very striking, and hardly
equalled by any other flower, except, perhaps, the Gloxinia. Whites and
yellows as well should, of course, be as pure in tone as possible.

Substance is a very important characteristic,- a poor, thin or flimsy flower
being next to worthless, however large or fine in other respects. Some of the
newer varieties have petals almost like a bit of leather, when felt between
the fingers — a great advance on the old flimsy-textured blooms, which would
hardly bear looking at, to use a common expression.

Size may be taken as coming next. This is constantly being increased ;
twenty years ago, or even less than that, the largest Begonia flowers measured
only about one inch across, about 1880 a 4-inch flower was considered very
large indeed, and now we have plenty that will reach 6 inches from top to
bottom, and some 7 inches and even 8 inches in diameter. What a won-
derful alteration in so short a space of time ! Mere size, however, should not
count for much, if the bloom is wanting in other respects. The medium
sized blooms, such as the one illustrated on p. 87, are, to our thinking, quite
large enough, and this view is shared to a large extent by Mr. Laing.

Freedom of flowering counts considerably, and it is, of course, to be
seen at a glance whether a plant is a shy bloomer or the reverse. It is not
to be expected that any plant will produce flowers of the largest size as
freely as one with comparatively small blooms, but it is as well to have
the two qualities combined as far as possible.

Habit of growth is another important point. In this respect most of the
varieties raised on the Continent are decidedly deficient, often running up to
a considerable height with only one or two main stems — in fact, what in
generally known as "leggy." English-raised seedlings are generally much
superior in this respect, and seedling plants are almost invariably more bushy
in growth than propagated named varieties. A medium-sized flowering plant
should branch naturally and freely, so as to form a mauy-shooted bush,

SEED SAVING AND HYBRIDISATION.

BEGONIA CAMELLIA. Example of a good type. (See p. 90/

covered with an abundance of blossoms ; but very large-flowered kinds do not,
as a rule, and indeed should not ramify so much, and three or four main
stems on a moderate-sized plant is quite sufficient, for if the growth is much
divided the blooms will of course suffer in size. Yet in all cases the growth
should be stout and compact, with strong and healthy foliage right down to
the pot. The size of the individual trusses makes a great difference in the
G

90 THE TUBEROUS BEGONIA.

appearance of a plant — of course if these are very abundantly produced they
need not, and indeed cannot be of very great size ; but some of the finest
new varieties (single), throw such a mass of blooms of the largest size on a
single stem, that even three or four on a plant affords a grand appearance.
Begonias, the single kinds more particularly, almost invariably bloom in
threes, of which the centre is always a male flower, and the two side ones
generally female, though frequently one, and sometimes both these are male
also. The bid-fashioned kinds, as a rule, only produced one of these triplets
on a footstalk, whereas the strong-growing hybrids of the present day will
often throw three sets of three blooms, making nine, or occasionally even
more flowers on a single stalk, and these will be sometimes all expanded at
the same time.

Hardiness and vigour of constitution are points of great importance,
particularly in kinds intended for bedding- out purposes, but unless the growth
of a plant is evidently weak or sickly, it is plain that no determination
could be come to on this point from a single inspection, as in judging at shows,
etc. It is the form, size, colour, and substance of the individual blooms,
and the habit and floriferousness of the plant that go to' make a fine
specimen and a good show on the exhibition table, no matter by what
means the result may be obtained.

THE POINTS OF A DOUBLE BEGONIA.

THE points of a first-class Double Begonia are more difficult to define. Size
* is of course desirable up to a certain point, though a well-shaped, medium-
sized bloom is, in our opinion, much to be preferred to a huge unshapely
mass of petals. Camellia, the variety illustrated on p. 89, is quite large enough.
Colour naturally counts largely, and the more rich, or dense, and pure
this is, the more valuable does the plant become. Form is a very
important point, but this varies so greatly that it is impossible to set up a
standard, or lay down any hard and fast rule. Round or circular-outlined
petals, well arranged and of good colour, are in most cases to be preferred,
but some varieties with narrow-pointed petals are very handsome. The
most objectionable kinds are, in our opinion, those that consist of an irregular
mass of crinkled petals, and yet if these in any way approach the Hollyhock
form they become beautiful directly. Substance of petal is of great im-
portance, and affords a lasting quality to the whole bloom. A good habit
and freedom in flowering of the plant itself are naturally very desirable in
this as in the single Begonia.

HOW AND WHEN TO MANIPULATE THE BLOOMS.

HAVING now indicated, as nearly as may be, the object to be attained, let us
proceed to operations. The first necessity is of course a good number — and

SEED SAVING AND HYBRIDISATION. 91

the more and the greater variety among them, the better — of plants of the
highest excellence, with a suitable structure in • which to flower them and
manipulate the blooms. This, as has been already directed in the chapters on
general culture, should be a light, roomy, and well-ventilated house, properly
heated, and, if possible, span-roofed, and situated in an open and sunny
spot. It should also be of a naturally dry nature, or capable of being at
any time allowed to become so, for neither can fertilisation be so successfully
performed, nor will the seed-containing pods so surely and perfectly set
and ripen, if there is any amount of latent dampness, as when the atmosphere is
fairly and reasonably dry. This becomes a very important factor in obtaining
a successful result with late-saved seed, which cannot be ripened at all
except in a dry and warm structure. All Begonia houses should therefore
be built entirely above ground, and well drained from any possible lodgment
of water in or near them.

The seed-pods may bo "set," as it is termed, at any time that the plants
are in bloom, or from the month of May until the end of October, or nearly
so ; but there are reasons why the operation should not, if it can be avoided,
be performed either very early or very late in the season. In the first
place, it is bad policy to commence fertilising while the plants are still not
much advanced, particularly where a long succession of bloom is expected,
for nothing exhausts the plants more quickly or shortens the period of
flowering than the formation of seed-pods. Again, it is unwise either to
defer the operation until so late that the plants are past their best, and
the blooms and resultant seed-pods comparatively small and weak, when
the seed will be neither so plentiful nor so good as if it were saved at an earlier
stage ; or to leave it uutil the advent of the cold, damp, and often sunless
days of late autumn, which under ordinary circumstances will seriously inter-
fere with both successful fertilisation and the subsequent ripening of the pods
and seed. In high, warm, and dry situations it is, of course, quite possible
to save and ripen seed much later than in less favoured localities ; we have
seen splendid pods set in October, and even later, and gathered in good
condition near Christmas.

A dry house, properly heated, and in a warm and favourable position, is a
great advantage to the hybridist, as it often enables him to obtain seed from
those plants, among the seedlings of the same year that do not arrive at a
flowering state until late in the season ; and among these are found, as has
been already remarked, some of the finest varieties of the whole batch. In
other words, the cultivator can thus work on the current year's stock, which
should be an advance upon that of the previous season, and thus a gain of
about a twelvemonth is practically effected. It may be remarked here,
that we do not consider it by any means advisable to obtain anything like a
heavy crop of seed from young plants raised the same year — one or two pods
only should be allowed to set and ripen, or the result of the strain upon the im-

92 THE TUBEROCJS BEGONIA.

mature plant may be painfully apparent next season. Also, when it is desired
to save seed from plants in the early stage of flowering, and particularly where
a specially choice sample of seed is required, it will also be well to set only
one, two, or at most three pods on a single plant, and the last number only
on a very strong example.

"Where a dry heat cannot be applied, or, indeed, under unfavourable con-
ditions of any kind, it is advisable to get the blooms fertilised and the pods
" set," as far as possible, during the month of July or early in August,
when they will take freely, ripen without trouble, and probably be fit to
harvest some time in August or September. At the time of fertilising tha
blooms, and while the pods are swelling and ripening, it is advisable to keep
the atmosphere of the house as dry (in reason) as will agree with the health
of the other inmates, particularly should the prevailing weather be cold and
damp ; and, also, to be rather more sparing in the supply of water at the root
than usual. A gentle warmth in the pipes is also of great use, drying the
air and promoting evaporation and a healthy movement in the atmosphere ;
and an open stage is often more suitable than a .close one.

NATURAL FERTILISATION.

BEGONIAS, both single and double, but more frequently the former, will
often set and mature seed-pods without any artificial fertilisation whatever,
though it is probable that this takes place unnoticed by the pollen being
carried in the air, or in some cases by insects, from one flower to another.
But this naturally fertilised seed, ov such as has been inoculated by chance, is
comparatively worthless, or, at any rate, cannot be depended upon, even
though the parent blooms were of good quality. At the same time, it is quite
possible for a really good cross to be effected in this hap-hazard fashion, and
it occasionally happens that very valuable seedlings are obtained by chance
in this way. In appears to be an invariable rule that commoner varieties or
indifferent flowers are fertilised and produce *seed much more readily than
those that are more highly bmd ; and the finer the flowers are, the more shy
do they become of seed -bearing. Indeed, in a large collection of the very
finest varieties we have known scarcely a single seed-pod to be produced except
those that had been carefully fertilised by hand. But undoubtedly thorough
artificial inoculation is the only true scientific and certain mode of ejecting
the desired object, and in this way only should the cultivator attempt to
obtain seed.

ARTIFICIAL FERTILISATION.

THE modus operandi is not always identical, some growers preferring to
employ a camel-hair brush to effect the transfer of pollen ; and where great
exactness is not required, as in the production of ordinary good mixed seed
in quantity, it is usual to work indiscriminately by this means among any

SEED SAYING AXD HYBRIDISATION. 93

blooms of good quality. Bat where exact an! distinct crosses are to be made,
the best method is to apply the miss of pollen-bearing anthers of the male
bloom directly to the stigma of the female, which in the Begonia consists of
three pairs of cork-screw-ship id processes. In order to accomplish this,
the male flower must, of course, either ba plucked, or the two plants brought
so close together that the blooms can bs brought into contact while still
attached; or we have often employed male blooms that have recently fallen
from the plants, when they will often be found to retain a considerable
amount of pollen. By this means the entirety of the stigma, or stigmas,
are thoroughly covered with pollen, an 1 all the cells of the pod are impregnated
and become filled with fertile seed. This operation should always (whenever
possible) be performed while the sun is shining, and in the middle of the day if
practicable, or at any rate between the limits of ten o'clock in the forenoon
and three or four o'clock p. m. We do not say that the pollen will not
"take" to a greater or less extent when actual sunshine is not present, for,
unlike some other plants, such as the Pelargonium ancl Petunia, not a pod
or seed of which will "set" upon a dull day, however carefully impregnated,
the Begonia is by no means shy of seeding, but the operation is much more
surely and effectually accomplished under the immediate supervision of "old
Sol," and we should further recommend any particularly choice crosses to be
made between the hours of ten and twelve a.m.

It should, moreover, be borne in mind that the choicest and most highly
bred varieties are almost invariably shy of seeding, and must be operated on
under the most favorable conditions all round to ensure success; common
kinds produce seed abundantly with little or no trouble. It occasionally
happens that particular blooms are fit for fertilisation at. unpropitious times,
as regards the weather, etc. ; in such cases the best that is possible must be
done under the circumstances, remembering that a dry atmosphere, a
moderately dry condition of the soil in the pots, and if cold or damp
prevails, a gentle heat in the pipes will greatly conduce to success. Pollen
may even be kept a few days in extreme case^ placing it in a piece of clean
folded paper, but it is better used fresh whenever possible.

MARKING THE CROSSES — GATHERING THE SEEDS.

THE operation performed, the different crosses may be distinguished by
means of short pieces of coloured cotton, silk, etc., tied round the footstalk
of the bloom, and the particulars entered in a note-book. The most favour-
able stage for the blooms to be operated upon is, in the case of the female or
seed-bearing flower, directly it is thoroughly expanded, say about the third
day after it first opens, and before it can have become inoculated by insects
or any flying pollen ; and in the case of the male flower as soon as the pollen
falls freely. Should bees or other insects prove troublesome, and likely to
disturb your arrangements, exclude them from the house by nailing fine wire

94 THE TUBEROUS BEGONIA.

netting, or some kind of perforated material over the ventilators ; or the house,
if a roomy one, and the weather is not too hot, may be kept closed for two or
three days. Some have even recommended enclosing the blooms (which can
be stripped of their petals without injury) in little bags of muslin or oiled
silk, but we have never found it necessary to be so particular as this, as
thorough impregnation at the right time seldom fails.

If the "cross" has "taken" properly, the fact will be made known by the
falling of the petals within forty-eight hours at the farthest -usually within
twenty-four hours -from the time the operation was performed. When the
pods are properly set and are swelling up, they should be kept perfectly dry,
freely subjected to the influence of light and air, and a fair amount of sun
acting upon them will also be found beneficial. When they turn brown, but
before they burst, gather and lay them on pieces of clean paper in some sunny,
protected place, and when thoroughly ripe, shake out the seed and place it in
strong paper pockets.

SELECTING THE FLOWERS FOR CROSSING.

THE method of fertilisation having now, we trust,, been made pretty clear,
let us proceed to consider the rules that govern t!ie important point of selection.
In the first place it may be taken as an axiom, that if an improvement in the
quality of the flowers is desired, this can only be brought about by cross-
fertilisation (breeding). Inoculating the female blooms of a plant with pollen
from its own male blooms, causes a stricter adherence to the characteristics
of the parent, but it is very seldom that any real improvement is effected
by this course of procedure. Indeed, it may be fairly said that in this respect
plants resemble animals, for what is known as inbreeding, especially when
this is continued for several generations, is in both undoubtedly injurious to
the qualities of the race or " strain " ; whereas the constant inter-crossing of
individuals differing widely in one or more points from each other, or, in
other words, the repeated introduction of fresh "blood," is almost always
productive of a class possessing remarkable vigour, and superior in many
points to the parent stock. Careful selection has, of course, a great deal to
do with success.

Reducing this to practice, it will be found that the inter-crossing of plants
or blooms possessing widely different qualities (though each must have really
good points), will be unfailingly productive of great improvements if per-
severed in. Begonias, especially under the influence of hybridisation, are
exceedingly "sportive" subjects, and among a goodly number of seedlings
from a judicious "cross," there can scarcely fail to occur one or more breaks
into a class or type superior to either of the parent plants. And the further
removed from what may be termed "related" the parents are, the finer will
the result prove to be, in all probability. It therefore follows that a fresh
infusion of "blood," at intervals, or the importation of plants or seed from

SEED SAVING AND HYBRIDISATION. 95

other sources, will be beneficial, and in practice this is found to be the case,
provided only that the newly imported "strain" is not in any way inferior
to the stock already in hand. In large collections, where many of the indi-
viduals are far removed from one another in character and descent, this point
is not of quite so much consequence as where the number of plants is limited ;
but even the largest collection will probably be benefited more or less by the
infusion of fresh "blood" at intervals.

But in some cases, as where, for instance, it is desired to produce any
particular colour or other characteristic, it is not possible to select types differing
in all respects for breeding from, and what may be termed " in-breeding "
must to some extent be resorted to. For instance, supposing an improved
form of a white flower to be desired, it would be a very slow way of going
to work to cross the best white in the stock with one of any other colour,
for hardly one in fifty of the seedlings would come white, the majority of
course reverting to the more natural or normal colour of red or pink. Theo-
retically, perhaps, such might be the best way of obtaining an improved
form, and even in practice the progeny would probably possess more vigour
than the result of a cross between two closely- related and more or less similar
white flowers. But the shortest way to go to work is to select two plants of
the same colour, or nearly so, but differing in other respects, and if possible
obtained from different sources. For instance, supposing one parent to be a
large but lovely-formed flower, perhaps tinged or tinted with pink, we should
select for the other parent a plant bearing a well-shaped, purely white bloom,
even if it were somewhat small.

Among the progeny of such a cross would be almost certain to be found
one or more seedlings in which the good qualities of each of the parents were
blended, to the exclusion of their faults, and thus an improvement would have
been effected. Next season, starting again with these blooms, faults still
remaining Avill be eliminated and good qualities still further developed, and
thus a constant progress towards perfection is effected.

In hybridising, a good general rule is to select for the second parent a flower
possessing those qualities that the first is deficient in. For instance, supposing
a plant with large but rather loosely-shaped pink blooms to be taken in hand,
we should select for the other plant a well-shaped — i.e., circular —bloom of a red
or crimson colour, with good substance and habit, and among the produce would
be sure to be found at least a few plants decidedly superior to either of the
parents, combining the good points of both. It does not greatly matter which
way the cross is made ; on the whole, perhaps, the female parent has generally
more influence upon the character of the seedlings than the pollen-bearing
parent, though at times we have noticed that pollen from an exceptionally fine
bloom of a distinct character produced a remarkable advance in the quality and
number of the seedlings produced, some of them being far superior to the
female in all respects, and one or two even ahead of the male. But, as a matter

96 THE TUBEROUS BEGONIA.

of fact, there is a great deal of chance work in hybridising, especially when
violent crosses (i.e , between widely-different individuals^ are made. Any one
cross, if of an experimental nature in particular, may be a great success or
may turn out a failure ; yet judicious selection, combined with perseverance,
are bound to tell in time, and will always ensure success in the end.

If, on the other hand, any particular characteristic, such as depth or purity
of colour, great size, dwarf habit, or the like be desired, then both the plants
selected for parents should possess the required quality in a marked degree ;
and by again selecting those of the seedlings that most nearly approach the
desired standard, in time something approaching perfection, or at any rate a
very high degree of excellence, will be attained.

This may appear something like a contradiction of what has been said pre-
viously, but though extreme crosses are undeniably useful in their way, yet
it does not do to put all our eg^s in one basket and to develop any one charac-
teristic, or to secure and bring to perfection any particular class or type of
flower that may have been obtained ; the surest, and, indeed, only way is to
breed solely from those that already exhibit the character or tendency required
in a marked degree. But the breeders should riot be related, if this can be
avoided, or if not, let the relationship be as distant as possible. For instance,
if two of the darkest- coloured red or crimson flowers in the collection are inter-
crossed, they will ultimately produce a much deeper shade, though two or
three, or perhaps several generations of seedlings may have to be raised before
the desired result is obtained.

Again, the erect- flowering type, which is one of the most useful and effective
departures that have yet occurred, was obtained simply by inter-crossing
examples that showed a tendency to hold their blooms upright, and anyone
with a few dozen plants to select from may attain the sanu result in the
course of two or three years ; there is also plenty of room for improvement
in this class still.

It will thus be seen that any flower possessing some good points, but
deficient in one or two respects, may have these faults amended— perhaps
entirely eradicated in the course of a generation or two —by being crossed with
another variety possessing the characteristics in which the first was wanting,
and at the same time any desirable "break" or style of flower may be secured
and brought to perfection by working on examples exhibiting a more or less
decided tendency to the desired type.

After working among these flowers for two or three years, and having become
pretty well conversant with the characteristics of the different varieties, it is
surprising how many more or less distinct types are found to exist, defined not
so much by colour, though this to some extent is a guide, as by the form and
character of the blooms, by the habit of the plant, and some peculiarity of
foliage, etc. When thoroughly at home among them, one can almost always
tell with tolerable certainty the source from which any seedling possessing any

SEED SAVING AND HYBRIDISATION. 97

noticeable characteristic was derived, without the help of tallies or numbers.
Not only the plants themselves, but even the tubers, and also the seed,
minute as this is, are subject to certain variations, denoting the class to
which they belong. Thus the seed of double- flowering Begonias is easily dis-
tinguished by the practised eye, and the seed of (single) white and also yellow
varieties presents a different appearance to that of the red flowers of various
shades.

HYBRIDISING DOUBLE FLOWERS.

THE hybridisation and raising of the double- flowering kinds is, if possible,
an even more interesting occupation than in the case of the singles, requiring
more skill and care, and presenting a still wider field for improvement and
variety. The great difficulty in impregnating the double varieties is to obtain
pollen of the right sort, for though female flowers are plentiful on almost any
plant with double blooms, yet a thoroughly double male bloom produces no
pollen, and if pollen from single flowers be employed, the proportion of true
doubles among the resultant seedlings will be exceedingly small. The only
alternative is to obtain pollen from semi-double blooms, and to this end it is
necessary to select and keep in hand a stock of these for breeding purposes.
It must be borne in mind that the more nearly double the pollen-producing
blooms are, the larger will be the proportion of double flowers among the
progeny ; and also that it is very unwise to make use of pollen from any
weedy third-rate blooms with only a tendency to doubleness. The pollen-
bearing parent should really be, in size, substance, form, and colour as well, if
possible, superior to the seed-parent, if any real advance is to be made. So
that whenever among a batch of seedlings a plant is noticed bearing partly-
double blooms, with bold round petals of good substance and of a clear decided
colour, whatever that may be, and of a stiff dwarf habit, it should be put aside for
a pollen-producer ; and the female blooms on a plant with fully double flowers
fertilised with such pollen will produce a large proportion — sixty or seventy
per cent, —of really fine double flowers. But the best pollen is that at times
afforded by plants which when in full vigour produce only fully double blooms ;
some of these when starved or past their best, and "running out," will throw
a few partly-double blooms, from which a little pollen may be obtained, and
this worked on the female blooms of other fine doubles will afford in some
cases as much as ninety per cent, of doubles among the seedlings. But this
cannot always be obtained, many of the finest varieties remaining double to the
last. Starvation, and keeping the plants dry at the root in small pots, and
exposed to strong sunshine, are the most effectual means for obtaining a little
pollen, and as such is simply invaluable — worth many times its weight in
gold— it is worth making some, effort to obtain.

When impregnated mark the blooms carefully, and note the particulars
of the cross. Encourage the pods to swell and ripen by maintaining a some-

98 THE TUBBROUS BEGONIA.

what dry and very airy atmosphere, with gentle warmth, and a fair amount
of sunshine acting on the plants will bo found beneficial. Also do not give
more than just enough water at the root to keep the plants from nagging.
Damp is the great enemy of the pods when swelling and ripening, so that
should the weather prove dull, a little fire heat should put on, and an
abundance of air admitted in any case.

As a rule, from seed saved in the ordinary way, or such as is usually sold
by trade growers, not more than fifty, or at most sixty per cent, of double
flowers can be expected— often there will be less than this even. But by
the exercise of great care, and the use of pollen from flowers as nearly double
as possible, seventy, eighty, and even ninety per cent, of doubles may be
obtained. It is strange that the first one or two blooms on seedling plants are
seldom so double as those that succeed them, and also that any check, such
as re- potting, will often cause the blooms to come only partly double for a
time. The fact is that fully double flowers are, as a rule, only produced by
a plant in full health and vigour. The finest condition is generally attained
when the plant is becoming slightly pot-bounl after having attained a good
size, and the vigour kept up by means of frequent doses of weak liquid
manure. Any single flowers produced among the doubles are usually worth-
less, being almost invariably poor, weak, flimsy things.

THE FIRST DOUBLE VARIETIES.

THE race of doubles arose in the first place from a few plants that were
noticed to possess rather more than the usual number of petals. These were
inter-crossed, and the petals gradually became more numerous, until at last
the whole of the anthers (which in true doubles are simply converted into
petals) became displaced, and perfectly double blooms resulted. The first
doubles of any note or degree of excellence that were sent out, were Alba plena,
white ; Anemonae-flora plena, rosy red ; Argus, vermilion ; Gloire de Nancy,
bright vermilion ; Lemoinei, orange ; Louis Van Houtte, orange-scarlet ; Pres.
Burelle, a rather bright red ; Salmonea plena, salmon-rose ; W. E. Gumbleton,
bright salmon. These are all that were to be found in Messrs. Laing's list of
1877, and were introduced, we believe, during 1875 and 1876. Most of these,
however, were only partly double, and would look very poor beside many of the
introductions of the last two or three years.

The great variety of form among the double-flowering Begonias constitutes
one of their great charms. Almost all are beautiful in their way, and
lovely and almost perfect as many of the new varieties are, there is evidently
still room for improvement in this respect— in fact, none can possibly say
what these flowers are yet capable of becoming. In our opinion, the dwarf-
habited erect-flowered class, with round petals, is much the most desirable
and promising class, the blooms showing to so much better effect to a
spectator above them (which is usually the case) than the drooping-flowered

SEED SAVING AND HYBRIDISATION. 99

kinds can possibly do. Some beds of these dwarf erect double kinds, which
we have seen in Messrs. Laing's nursery, though only seedlings, presented
a most beautiful appearance, and* fully confirmed our previous opinion
of them. Being in the open air the growth is exceedingly short and stiff,
and the flower stems very strong; and though fully exposed to every ray of
sunshine, neither foliage nor flowers seem to suffer in the least, but gain an
unusual degree of substance and health.

It may, perhaps, be as well to add a few words on what should almost "go
without saying," viz., that all Begonias intended to produce seed must have
been well hardened previously, and be exposed to plenty of sun and air. Soft
and sappy or shaded plants must not be expected to 'seed well ; in fact, they
will not— cannot do it. Never mind the blooms going at the edges a little,
they are of no consequence at this stage ; it is the pods that we want. Keep-
ing the plants somewhat short of water greatly tends to solidify the tissues,
and this, with plenty of sun and air, will ensure pods that will neither drop,
shrivel, nor "shank off." We would rather put our seedling plants out-of-
doors altogether during August and September than keep them in a close,
dark, or shaded house.

100 THE TUBEROUS BEGONIA.

THE BEST FORM OF BEGONIA HOUSE.

fHE best form of glasshouse in which to bloom Begonias to perfection is
a span-roofed structure, in an open and sunny position, built entirely
above the ground, and running east and west, or nearly so. This is
obviously a better direction than north and south, because in the latter
case shading must be given on both sides, and if this is done by means of
blinds on rollers one must be let down early, and taken off again shortly
after mid-day, while that on the west side must be drawn rather before noon,
and left on till near sunset, thus rendering two blinds and double trouble
necessary ; whereas an east and west house only needs, if the roof is of
moderate pitch, a single blind on the south side, which, with perhaps a
slight sprinkle of whitewash on the north, just at midsummer, will answer
every purpose, and the plants will constantly enjoy the benefit of the full
north light, even while the shading is on.

If a number of specimen plants are to be grown, and a house is set apart
for them, a wide span-roofed structure, with' a stage in the centre, one on each
side, and two pathways, is undoubtedly the best form for not only is a wide
and therefore comparatively lofty structure more suitable for the plants, but
fine specimens present a much better appearance arranged on a central stage,
where they are viewed from the outside, than they can possibly do on
narrow side stages. There is also much more accommodation for hanging
baskets in a house of this description than in a smaller and lower structure.
Suitable dimensions for a house of this class would be,— centre stage, 8 feet.
in width, a 3-foot pathway on each side of this, and a 3 or 4 feet
wide staging again outside the path, giving a total width of 20 to 22 feet, or
say 25 feet wide (outside measurement) for a fine roomy structure ; the length
may be anything from 30 to 100 feet or more. The stages should
be about 3 feet in height, strongly made, and of open construction.
Flooring boards, 1 inch thick, and 4 to 6 inches in width are perhaps better
than the battens usually employed, particularly for large plants, as being
stronger, cheaper, and affording better standing for the pots ; a space of from
1 to 1£ inch should be left between each, to allow of a free circulation of air.

Side lights— vertical glazed sashes— of about 3 feet in height should
be arranged above the level of the stages on each side ; these, or at any
rate every alternate one, should be hinged on to the upper plate, to act as
ventilators when required, and they may be worked either by the usual arm
and lever arrangement, or, if economy is an object, singly by hand, with
a block and button to keep them in position. Supposing the width of
the house from the outside of the wall plates to be 20 feet, the ridge-plank
apex of the roof should be fixed at a distance of 7 feet 6 inches or 8 feet above
the level of the upper plate or uaves of the house ; this will give a good pitch.

BEST FORM OF BEGONIA HOUSE. 101

Eoof ventilators must be large and frequent, so as to allow free egress to
overheated air. The wider and longer are the panes of glass employed, the
stronger will the light inside the house be, and the results will prave propor-
tionately better. We have seen houses with glass 2 feet in width, but do not
think it is at all necessary to go so far as this, and if a space of 18 inches is
allowed between the bars, and the panes are cut to a length of 2 feet or
2 feet 6 inches, with bars no wider than is actually necessary, and small laps,
ample light for any purpose will be admitted.

Such a house could be heated by three rows of 4-inch piping along each side
under the staging ; or two rows on each side, and two or three up the centre
of the houses, would do equally well, if not better. This would afford sufficient
heat to bloom the plants nicely from April or May till nearly Christmas.
Large specimens arranged on the central stage, the taller ones being elevated
on inverted pots along the centre, so as to form a sloping bank towards
each side, will afford a splendid effect, while the smaller plants can occupy
the side stages.

Begonias of moderate size can, of course, be flowered well in a house of much
smaller dimensions than they above. For a narrow house, however, a rather
steeper pitched roof would be advisable — say with an inclination of 45°.
For such a house, 12 feet is a very good width Avith a pathway 2 feet or

2 feet 6 'inches wide down the centre, and open lath or board staging 2| feet or

3 feet in height on either side. Any glass at the sides is not actually neces-
sary, though a house so constructed looks much better than where the rafters
rest directly on the wall plate, and there is also a decided gain in head-room.
If side lights are provided they need not be more than 18 inches or 2 feet in
height, and though with abundant roof ventilation side air is not indispen-
sable, yet it will be as well that these should be made to open, or if there
is nothing at the sides but brickwork, at least some wooden flaps or slides
should be arranged at intervals along each side of the house. The only
disadvantage of this class of house is that, owing to the limited head-room,
the larger plants must stand towards the front of the stage, consequently
hiding to a great extent the smaller ones behind, so that the effect is par-
tially lost. A 4-inch flow and return pipe on each side beneath the staging
will suffice to warm such a house thoroughly.

Some growers appear to do these Begonias very well on solid beds, sur-
faced with ashes or shingle. At Swanley the whole of the plants are
grown thus, with the best results, but as a general rule, like Pelargoniums
(Show and Eegal varieties), they succeed much better on open staging,
where there is a free and constant movement of the air among them. At
the same time, should there be hot pipes immediately beneath such staging,
and these have to be maintained at a somewhat high temperature, we should
so far disregard this principle as to lay down some slates over the -pipes, to
prevent the heated air acting directly on the plants.

102

THE TUBEROUS BEGONIA.

•

SELECT LISTS OF BEGONIAS.

SINGLE VARIETIES.

A. HAYES, rich crimson

A. W. TAIT, intense crimson

BALL OF FIRE, scarlet

BLACK DOUGLAS, carmine-crimson

CAPTAIN ROGERS, rosy crimson

CHARMER, carmine-crimson

COUNTESS OF ROSSLYN, bronze-orange

DISTINCTION, crimson, white centre

DUCHESS OF EDINBURGH, yellow,

shaded orange
DUKE OF EDINBURGH, maroon, shaded

chestnut

EARL OF CHESTERFIELD, vivid crimson
EARL OF ROSSLYN, orange-scarlet

E. H. WOODALL, orange-scarlet
EMILY TEESDALE, white
EXONIENSIS, orange-scarlet

F. E. LAING, velvety crimson
GOLDEN QUEEN, golden yellow
GUARDSMAN, vermilion

HER MAJESTY, blush, rose-pink centre
LADY BROOKE, rose, shaded violet
LADY CHESTERFIELD, rosy pink
LORD CREWE, violet-crimson
LORD LEWISHAM, vivid scarlet "
MARCHIONESS OF BUTE, rosy pink
MARQUIS OF BUTE, carmine-crimson
MRS. BELLEW, pink
MRS. ENO, salmon, suffused with pink
MRS. LAING, white
MRS. MANBY, yellow

MRS. RAIKES, pink, shaded violet

MRS. WEEKES, white, rose-pink edge

Miss MALCOLMSON, white

Miss NEVE, salmon

MR. A. FORBES, vivid crimson

MR COCKBURN, orange-scarlet

MR. MURPHY, pink

OUR LEADER, soft red, light centre

PINK QUEEN, light pink

PRIMROSE QUEEN, pale yellow

PRINCE ALBERT VICTOR, orange-scarlet

PRINCE OF WALES, crimson-scarlet

PRINCESS LOUISE, white

PRINCESS VICTORIA, rosy carmine, pale

centre

PRINCESS OF WALES, rosy pink
PURITY, white
QUEEN VICTORIA, deep rose
RILEY SCOTT, crimson
ROSE PERFECTION, rose
SrR PETER LUMSDEN, crimson-scarlet
SIR STAFFORD NORTHCOTE, lake-red
SIR W. HART-DYKE, rich pink
SNOWFLAKE, white
STANSTEAD SURPRISE, deep crimson
STAR OF GOLD, yellow
TOREY LAING, yellow and orange
VESUVIUS, bright orange
WHITE PERFECTION, white
WILLIAM SPINKS, rose.

SELECT BEGOXIAS.

103

BEGONIAS SUITABLE FOR BASKETS.

ANTOINETTE GUERIN, white, cream

centre

BLANCHE DUVAL, creamy white
CLOVIS, orange-scarlet
ESTHER, crimson, rose-pink centre
FORMOSA, rosy carmine, white centre
FRANCIS BUCIINER, cerise, shaded

orange
GABRIELLE LEGROS, sulphur-white

DOUBLE-FLOWERED VARIETIES.

GLOIRE DE NANCY, crimson-scarlet
INCENDIE, reddish scarlet
LORD MAYOR, dark rose
Louis BOUCIIET, orange-scarlet
MADAME ARNOULT, blush-pink
MARIE BOUCHET, reddish purple
PENDULA (Laing\ deep rose
ROSAMONDE, rose-pink.

AGNES SORREL, flesh-white

ALBA FIMBRIATA, white

ALBA MAGNA, white

ALBA ROSEA, rosy pink

ANNA, COUNTESS OF KINGSTON, sal-

mon, yellow centre
ANTOINETTE GUERIN, white, creamy

centre
BLANCHE DUVAL, creamy white, blush

guard petals

BLANCHE JEAN PIERRE, white tint
C. FELLOWES, red, suffused crimson
CANARY BIRD, yellow
CLEMENCE DENIZARD, deep rose
CLOVIS, orange-red
COMMANDANT BASSET, soft shade of

red

COMTESSE H. DE~CHOISEUL, rose
DAVISII FLORE PLENO supERBA, crim-

son-scarlet
DR. DUKE, scarlet
EARL OF BESSBOROUGH, buff-yellow,

red edge

ETNA, reddish scarlet
FELIX CROUSSE, orange-scarlet
FORMOSA, rosy carmine, white centre
GABRIELLE LEGROS, sulphur-white
GARNET, orange-scarlet
GLOIRE DE NANCY, vermilion
GLORY OF STANSTEAD, rose, white

centre

GLOW-WORM, bright crimson

GOLIATH, crimson-cerise

H. LITTLE, crimson-scarlet

HERCULES, orange-scarlet

HON. MRS. PLUNKETT, salmon, with

blush shade

JEAN SOUPERT, deep salmon
JUBILEE, magenta-rose
KING OF THE BEGONIAS, crimson-
scarlet
KING OF THE CRIMSONS, crimson,

shaded maroon
LADY HULSE, yellow
LADY LENNOX, yellow
LEON DE ST. JEAN, reddish scarlet
LILLIE, salmon-rose
LORD BEACONSFIELD, .scarlet-carmine
LORD LOUGHBOROUGH, bright scarlet
LORD MAYOR, dark rose
LORD RANDOLPH, crimson-scarlet
Louis BOUCHET, orange-scarlet
Louis D'OR, saffron -yellow
LOUISE DE GOUSSAINCOURT, light pink
MADAME ARNOULT, salmon-rose
MADAME AUGUSTE C^OUET, salmon,

shaded pink

MADAME COMESSE, satiny, salmon-rose
MADAME CROUSSE, flesh-rose
MADAME DE DUMAST, rose, flesh centre
MADAME DE SARGAS, soft pink, tinted
salmon

104

THE TUBEROUS BEGONIA.

MADAME E. GALLE, salmon, orarge

centre

MADAME E. PYNAERT, creamy yellow
MAJOR STUDDERT, bright red
MRS. AMY ADCOCK, salmon-red
MRS. BRISSENDEN, salmon-pink
MRS. H. G. MURRAY-STEWART, scarlet
MRS. J. L. MACFARLANE, salmon-pink
MRS. G A. PARTRIDGE, yellow
MARCHIONESS OF STAFFORD, creamy

white

MARQUIS OF STAFFORD, carmine-
crimson

MONS. CASSET, salmon, orange centre
M. DUVIVIER, rosy crimson

M. PAUL DE VICQ, carmine- cerise
OCTAVIE, white
PA VILLON JAUNE, yellow
PRINCE OF WALES, crimson
PRINCESS OF WALES, white
QUEEN OF DOUBLES, rosy crimson
ROBIN ADAIR, carmine-crimson
ROSAMONDE, rosy pink
ROSETTE, blush-pink
SIR GARNET, orange-scarlet
SUZANNA HATCHETTE, rosy pink
T. HEWITT, crimson-scarlet
T. MOORE, salmon-red
VIRGINALIS, pure white
WILLIAM BEALBY, deep scarlet.

XEW DOUBLE-FLOWERING BEGONIAS.
To be sent out in 1889.

Those printed in italics have
Adonis (Laing), salmon, light centre
ARGUS (Laing), violet-rose
Camellia (Laing), rosy crimson
CARNATION (Laing), pink, edged white
Claribd (Laing), deep pink, white
centre

DAVIS!! GIGANTEA FLORE TLENO

(Laing) , -reddish crim son
DUCHESS OF TECK (Laing), pure yellow
Enchantress (Cannell), soft salmon
GIGANTEA (Laing), salmon-rose
GLOW (Laing), glowing scarlet
HARTINGTON (Laing), rose
H. BARNET (Laing), darkest crimson
IONA (Laing), salmon-red
JL_ADY JULIAN GOLDSMID (Laing),

bright pink

Lady Mary Fitzwilliam (Cannell), pink
LADY ROTHSCHILD (Laing), pink,

white centre
LEONORA (Laing), flesh, edged with

pink
LORD ROTHSCHILD (Laing), bright

received First Class Certificates.
MAGGIE RUST (Laing), rosy pink
Marginata (Laing), white, edged pink
MRS. CARTER (Laing), delicate pink
Mrs. Midson (Cannell), white
Mrs. D. Miller (Cannell), flesh pink
MRS. G. PAUL (Cannell), pale cream
MRS. F. WILSON (Cannell), salmon-pink
Mrs. B. Wynne (Cannell), salmon
Miss BRYCESON (Cannell), pure white
Mr. H. Adcock (Laing), crimson-scarlet
Perfection (Laing) deep salmon-red
Princess Maud (Laing), white
PURITY (Cannell), white
ROSY "GEM (Laing) bright rose,
Scarlet Perfection (Laing), vivid scarlet
Sir John Fender (Cannell), salmon-red
SIR JULIAN GOLDSMID, (Laing) rosy red
Snowball (Laing), white
Terra Cotta (Laing), pale red
TRIUMPH (Cannell), rich pink
Viscountess Cranlrook (Laing), bright

rose, white centre
W. F. Bennett (Cannell), yellow

INDEX

Arrangement of Begonias in beds 82
Autumn flowering, culture of

plants for 71

Baskets, Begonias suitable for ... 102
Bedding-out plants, value of

Begonias as ... ... ... 4

Bedding-out, Begonias for ... 79

Beds, preparing for planting ... 81

Begonia, Acme ... ... ... 21

,,- Adonis 78

„ boliviensis 14

„ Camellia 89

,, Chelsoni 20

„ Clarkei 16

,, Davisii 16

,, Emperor 22

,, Felix Crousse ... ... 59

„ Froebelii 18

,, Glow 61

,, intermedia 20

John Heal 76

„ Mr. Poe 45

,, Mons. Truffaut 65

,, Pearcei 14

,, Prince Henry 85

,, Princess Beatrice ... 85

,, Queen Victoria 26

„ of Whites ... 22

,, rosseflora 16

,, Rosarnonde ... ... 63

„ Rose Celeste 87

,, Sedeni 18

,, socotrana 74

„ Veitchii ... 14

PAGE

Begonia, Virginalis 57

,, Viscountess Doneraile ... 21

„ White Queen 22

,, Winter Gem 78

Begonia, essential characters of the

genus 10

Begonia family, a brief sketch

of the 10

Begonias, arrangement of, in beds 82
„ behaviour of, under culti-
vation ... - 12

„ for Bedding 79

,, double-flowering 56

„ double, erect flowering 60

,, double, hybridising ... 97

,, doubles, select 103

,, new varieties of ... ... 104

,, for exhibition ... ... 67

,, for late autumn flower-
ing 71

,, history of the 14

,, how and when to fertilise 91
,, management of, in

autumn 72

,, the new race of winter-
flowering ... ... 74

,, on packing ... ... 69

,, properties of .., 83, 90

,, select lists of ... ... 102

„ suitable for baskets ... 102

,, as town plants 9

,, value of, for bedding-
out 4

,, as wet weather plants ... 5

106

INDEX.

PAGE

Begonia house, best form of ... 100
Bull, Mr. W., hybrids raised

by 24

Cannell, Mr. H., hybrids intro-
duced and raised by ... :.. 28
Characteristics, general, of Be-
gonias; interesting exceptions

to the 11

Compost for Begonias .. 48, 50, 62

Continental Seedlings 30

Crousse, M. Felix, hybrids raised

by ... 30

Cuttings, propagation by 43

Double-flowering varieties ... 56

,, varieties, the first raised,

22, 98

Erect- flowering section 60

Exhibition, Begonias for ... ... 67

Fertilisation, artificial 95

,, natural 92

Fertilising, marking the crosses ... 94

Flower, treatment when in ... 53

Flowering, treatment after ... 54

Forest Hill strain, The 24

Form in double Begonias, variety

of 58

Hildebrandia, the genus 13

History of the Tuberous Begonia 14

Hybrid, The first garden ... 18

Hybridising double Begonias ... 97
Hybridisation and seed saving ... 86
Hybrids raised by Messrs. Veitch 20
Improvements in the Begonia ... 3
Introducer of the Begonia ... 32
Laing, Mr. John, hybrids raised

by 24

Leaf cuttings 45

Manures, artificial, feeding with... 68
O'Brien, Mr. J., hybrids raised by 22

Packing Begonias, hints on ... 69

Pearce, Mr.R., the late 32

Plants, small v. large, for bedding 79
,, suitable for combination

with Begonias 84

Potting, on 49,52, 62

Pots, cultivation of Begonias in... 46
Propagation of the Begonia ; by

.Seeds, 34 ; by Cuttings ... 43

Propagating double varieties, hints

on 63

Properties of single Begonias ... 86

,, double varieties ... 90

Seed saving and hybridisation ... 86

Seedlings, on potting on 42

,, transplanting into

boxes or trays _ ... 40
,, treatment of, after ger-
mination ... ... 38

Seed pans, preparing for sowing ... 34

Seeds, on gathering the 94

,, propagation by ... ... 34

Selecting and starting tubers ... 47

,, flowers for crossing ... 94

Shading Begonias, on ... ... 68

Soils fo*1 Begonias 48, 50

Species of Begonia 10

Sutton & Sons, Messrs., hybrids

raised by 24, 84

Swanley Collection, the 28

Temperatures for ... ... 52, 68

Treatment when in bloom ... 53

Tubers, selecting and starting, 47, 80

,, on preserving in winter 84

Veitcb, Messrs., hybrids raised by 20

Ventilation for 52

Watering, on 48,51, C3

Winter- flowering varieties, new

race of 74

ADVERTISEMENTS.

Seed, Bulb, and Plant Merchants,

ROSE, FRUIT-TREE, & VINE GROWERS,
FOREST HILL, LONDON, S.E,

AWARDED POUR GOLD MEDALS.

A GREAT
SPECIALITY.

Awarded the only JUBILEE GOLD MEDAL offered.

The Head of our Firm has made the BEGONIAS what
they now are ; we therefore strongly recommend purchasers to send to
us DIRECT, to procure the BEST, and OCR greatly improved varieties. We
only supply Seeds (Single and Double) in OUR own sealed packets,
without which none are genuine.

No one should fail to see our GRAND FLORAL DISPLAY OF BEGONIAS during the
summer months. The magnitude and quality of our collection is unapproached.

WE HAVE A GllAND STOCK OF

ORCHIDS, STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS,
Chrysanthemums, Herbaceous Plants, Florists' Flowers,

AND

GENUINE SEEDS AND BULBS.

Best route to reach, our (four) Nurseries is from Charing Gross, Cannon Street, or
London Bridge (thirty minutes' ride) to Catford Bridge Station, thence a walk of five
minutes ; or to Forest Hill from Victoria, Kensington, and West End.

DESCRIPTIVE CATALOGUES POST FREE.

ADVERTISEMENTS.

We have the finest and most complete
collection in the world, and to confirm this
statement we were awarded the first Gold
Medal, and also the First Prize at the recent
Show in London, open to all comers.

Daily Chrvnide, 2lst June, 1888. — " Begonias. — Mr. Cannell a grand

First."— (7 entries)

Mr. J. W. TAYLOK, 81, Ann Street,. Dundee, October, 2lst, 1887.

" I gained the first; prize with your Single Begonias, both at the Down-
fie)d and Dundee Shows,, and there was not one at either that came within
3 inches of the size of my flowers. I have taken first prize from all the
amateurs for three years. I was also first for Bronze Pelargoniums and
Fuchsias, with sorts obtained from you. My collection of Begonias from
you make a show in themselves, and it is the talk of the country. Some
gardeners, who have a good collection themselves, came a great distance
to see them, but all admitted they had nothing to be compared with mine."

and

Our fine display during the summer in eight 100-feet houses, and an
acre out in the grounds, consisting of hundreds of thousands. Send
for our Floral Guide, the finest illustrated and descriptive Catalogue,
containing all particulars of the culture of the above, and other
innumerable secrets of cultivation ; sent post free.

H. CANNELL & SONS,

THE HOME OF FLOWERS,

, KENT.

ADVERTISEMENTS. HI

VEITCH'S

CHOICE FLOWER SEEDS

THE FINEST IN CULTIVATION.

BEGONIA, YEITCH'S CHOICEST HYBRID.

Saved from the very finest and newest hybrids, and is undoubtedly the best strain
yet offered. Per packet, Is. 6d.

DOUBLE BEGONIA, CHOICEST HYBRID,

Saved from an unequalled collection, and may be expected to produce a large
proportion of well-formed, perfectly double flowers. Per packet, 2s. 6d.

AMARYLLIS, YEITCH'S HYBRID.

Saved from the magnificent collection grown at our Chelsea Nursery. Per packet, 2s. 6d.

CALCEOLARIA, INTERNATIONAL PRIZE.

Unsurpassed for size, shape, and substance of flowers. Per packet, 2s. 6d.

CARNATION, YEITCH'S FINEST DOUBLE.

Saved from our unequalled collection of all the finest varieties ; likely to produce
many new beautiful sorts. Per packet, 2s. 6d.

CINERARIA, YEITCH'S SUPERB STRAIN.

Splendid large flowers, of fine form and substance. Per packet, 2s. 6d.

GLOXINIA, YEITCH'S SUPERB STRAIN.

Saved from the magnificent collection grown at our Chelsea Nursery. Per packet, 2s. 8d.

MIGNONETTE, CRIMSON KING.

A new, distinct, and most desirable variety for pot culture, throwing up numerous
stout flower-stalks, terminated by extremely broad spikes of delightfully scented bright
red flowers. Per packet, Is.

NEW PRIMULA, SNOWFLAKE.

First Class Certificate Royal Horticultural Society, 1887.
The finest pure white fern-leaved variety. Flowers large, of fine form, massive
substance, and exquisitely fimbriated at edge, well displayed above the dark green
beautifully curled foliage. Per packet, 3s. 6d.

PRIMULAS, YEITCH'S SUPERB STRAIN-

FINEST FRINGED, RED, WHITE, AND MIXED.

These are the finest in cultivation, and were awarded a First Class Certificate by
the Royal Horticultural Society for superior quality. Per packet, 2s. 6d.

63£" For full description of the above and other Choice Novelties and Specialities, see
SEED CATALOGUE, forwarded Gratis and Post-free on application.

JAMBS VEITCH & SONS,

ROYAL EXOTIC NURSERY, CHELSEA, LONDON, S.W.

ADVERTISEMENTS.

antr

ARR'S SELECTED

BULBS.

Jftnest of 1888 iffrop.

Direct from the most reliable Bulb
Farms in Holland and France.

Full Descriptive Bulb Catalogue Free on application.

FULLY ILLUSTRATED & DESCRIPTIVE DAFFODIL CATALOGUE
FREE ON APPLICATION.

BARB & SON, 12 & is, KING-ST., GOVENT GARDEN, w.c.

SPECIALITIES.

ROSES, DAHLIAS,

VERBENAS,
Chrysanthemums & Vines.

CATALOGUE GRATIS.

The

ADVERTISEMENTS.

OWEN'S

"IMPERIAL" BEGONIAS.

New and distinct strain, possessing a greater variety of colour than
any other strain; the result of 15 years' labour. Habit dwarf and
vigorous, flower stems erect, blooms of great size and substance.

AWARDED MANY CERTIFICATES AND PRIZES.

TESTI MON IAL.

July 3rd, 1888, Cambridge.

I am very pleased with the Begonias you sent me. The habit of the
plants is very dwarf, flower stems erect, the flowers looking one in the
face as if not ashamed to be seen.

HENRY BIDGEWELL.

TUBERS AND SEED BY POST.

The finest collection in the kingdom; 1,200 varieties, warranted

true to name.

Descriptive and priced Catalogue, with cultural directions by E.
Molyneux and C. Orchard, 6d., free to purchasers.

PLANTS AND CUTTINGS BY POST.

ROBERT OWEN,

FkQRALx NTJHSERY,

MAIDENHEAD.

ADVERTISEMENTS.

NIAS*-

THE LARGEST AND BEST COLLECTION IN THE WEST OF ENGLAND.

CULTIVATED BY

BEGONIAS for Exhibition.

BEGONIAS for Conservatory and Greenhouse.

BEGONIAS for Window and Table Decoration.

BEGONIAS for Bedding Out.

BEGONIAS, Double, Named, and Unnamed.

BEGONIAS, Single, to Name, Colour, or Mixed.

Inspection of BEGONIAS invited during July, August, & September.

BEGONIAS in immense quantities.

Descriptive Gatalagae Free oa application t®

IB. 1^. 3D.A.A7-IS5,
THE YEOVIL NURSERIES, YEOVIL, SOMERSET.

A REVISED AND ENLARGED CHEAP EDITION

VINES & VINE CULTURE

"The most complete and exhaustive Treatise on. Grapes

ever published."

ARCHIBALD F. BARRON,

Superintendent of the Royal Horticultural Society's Gardens, Chisivick ;
Secretary of the Fruit Committee ; Author of British Apples, Pears, <bc.

conovnrar EUU»TRATVI>.

Demy SYO, Handsomely Bound in Cloth, price 5s, ; Post Free, 5s, 6d.

13, SUTTON COURT ROAD, CHISWICK, LONDON.

ADVERTISEMENTS.

vii

Hone is Genuine that does not bear our Name on the Sack.

IMPROVED

Vine, Plant & Vegetable Manure

AWARDED ONLY
MEDAL

ARTIFICIAL MANURES

Edinburgh International Exhibition, 1886.

This Manure, on its own merits, has come rapidly into extensive use. The materials
it is composed of are of the highest manurial value, and so balanced as to combine
immediate with lasting effects. It is a safe and certain Manure for every fruit-bearing"
plant from the Vine downwards, as well as for Pot Plants and Vegetables.

1 ton
10 owts.
5

o618 O
9 10
5 O

1 cwt.
56 Ibs
28 ,

,£100
O 10 O
O 6 O

7 Ib. tins
3 „
1

10 s e

020
O 1 O

Directions for use are placed in each Sack, and printed on the Tins.

Orders of and above 1 cwt. Carriage Paid to all Stations. Can be had of all
Nurserymen and Seedsmen.

Agent for London : —

Mr. JAMES GEORGE,

TO, Victoria Road, Putney.

Sole Agent for Channel Islands:—

Mr. J. H. PARSONS,

Market Place, Guernsey.

REFERENCES CAN BE MADE TO

Mr. JONES, Royal Gardens, Windsor Castle

Mr. HENDERSON, Thoresby Park, Nottingham

Mr. MURRAY, Culzean Castle, Maybole

Mr. LYON, Ossington Hall, Nottingham

Mr. BAILLIE, Luton Hoo, Luton

Mr. GOUGH, Harefield Grove, Uxbridge

Mr. M-INDOE, Button Hall, Yorkshire

Mr. BURNETT, Deepdene, Dorking

Mr. M'INTYRE, The Glen, Innerleithen

Mr. GEORGE MUNRO, Covent Garden, London

H. PIGGOTT, Esq., Tunbridge Wells

Mr. LAING, Salisbury Green, Edinburgh

Mr. GROSSART, Oswald House, Oswald Road, Edin-
burgh

Mr. KAY, Long Lane Nursery, Finchley, N.

Mr. MACKENZIE, Eriska, Oban

Mr. M'LEOD, Brentham Park, Stirling

Mr. TEMPLE, Carron House, Falkirk

Mr. JOHN BAYNE, Patslmll Grdns.Wolverhampton

Mr. MURRAY, The Gardens, Park Hall, Polmont,
N.B.

Mr. J. WITHERSPOON, Red Rose Vineries, Chester-
le-Street

And many others.

SOLE MAKERS:—

Win. Thomson & Sons, Tweed Vineyard, Clovenfords,GalasMeIs.

WM. THOMSON & SONS have a very Large Stock of HIGH-CLASS ORCHIDS, which they
are prepared to offer on very reasonable terms. These_may be had on application.

ADVERTISEMENTS.

GARDENING T^ORLD.

ESTABLISHED 1884.

The Largest and Best Penny Weekly Gardening Paper.

PUBLISHED EVERY FRIDAY-PRICE ONE PENNY.

AND CONTAINS

WELL-WRITTEN & INSTRUCTIVE ARTICLES

ON THE CULTURE OF

ALL USEFUL FRUITS, FLOWERS, AND VEGETABLES.
THE CURRENT WORK OF THE GARDEN.

ORCHID NOTES AND GLEANINGS.

WEEKLY LETTERS ON

GARDENING IN SCOTLAND AND IRELAND.

SPECIAL CONTRIBUTIONS ON

floitfcrA ^ the ipmateuitt' garden,

NOTICES OF NEW BOOKS- REPORTS OF FLOWER SHOWS,

THE HORTICULTURAL NEWS OF THE WEEK,

AND

Illustrations foy t&@ feest Artists.

A FIRST-CLASS MEDIUM FOR ADVERTISING.

From all Newsagents and Booksellers, or direct from the Office for
6s. Qd. per annum, PREPAID.

Foreign Subscrijrtion to all Countries in the Postal Union, 8s. Qd.

per annum.

VOLUMES I. TO IV,, HANDSOMELY BOUND, 6s, 60. EACH,
Postal and Money Orders should be made payable to B. WYNNE, at Drury Lane.

PUBLISHING- OFFIOE:—

17, CATHERINE STREET, COYENT GARDEN, LONDON, I.C.

ADVERTISEMENTS.

THE RATIONAL CHRYSANTHEMUM SOCIETY.

1SSS*

ROYAL AQUARIUM, WESTMINSTER.

3SX1H!

SEPTEMBER 12th and 13th,

CHRYSANTHEMUMS & DAHLIAS.

CHRYSANTHEMUM EXHIBITION & FETE

NOVEMBER 7th and 8th.

JANUARY 9th and 10th, 1889.
CHRYSANTHEMUMS, CYCLAMENS, PRIMULAS, &c.

FLORAL COMMITTEE "MEETINGS

SEP. 12th, OCT. 10th and 24th, NOV. 7th and 21st, DEC. 5th,
and JAN. 9th, 1889.

(All persons, whether Members of the Society or not, are invited to*
exhibit at the Floral Meetings.)

THE

GRAND PROVINCIAL SHOW

WILL BE HELD IN THE

CORE? &SCH£&2¥QE*,

NOVEMBER 16th and 17th.

Schedules and all particulars sent on application to

Mr. WILLIAM HOLMES,

Frampton Park Nurseries, Hackney*

Members of the Society are entitled to a pass for every Show.
Annual Subscription of Members, 5s. ; of Fellows, 21s.

> DVERTISEMENTS.

ST. ALBANS.

LARGEST AND FINEST STOCK

ESTABLISHED ORCHIDS

IN THE KINGDOM.

WE HAVE A MAGNIFICENT COLLECTION

OF ALL THE

BKST NAMED

DOUBLE AND SIHGLE BEGONIAS,

THE FORMER MOSTLY BY CONTINENTAL GROWERS,

AND

'We confidently assert that Double Begonias sent out by French Raisers
are far in advance of any English Strain.

WE ALSO CULTIVATE A FINE LOT OF LARGE-FLOIERED SINGLES.

'Our prices will be found extremely reasonable on comparison with other well-
known firms.

DESCRIPTIVE LIST FREE ON APPLICATION.

MORLEY & Co.,

EXOTIC NURSERIES,

PKESTON,

AD VE RTLSEMENTS.

CONTRACTORS TO HER MAJESTY'S WAR DEPARTMENT,

THE

THAMES BANK

IRON
COMPANY.

GOLD MEDAL, BIRMINGHAM, & ^ r; $ ; tj | |T U • V | GOLD AND SILVER MEDALS,

1872. WWlWHI mill LONDON, 1883 & 1886.

(TELEGRAPHIC ADDRESS—HOT WATER, LONDON.— TELEPHONE— No. 4763.)

ORIGINAL MANUFACTURERS of this CLASS of BOILER.

Supplied in several sizes for the last Thirty-five Years to the leading
Horticulturists.

Several improvements ^j^gfe^.^^ making it complete in

eluding Water Bars, BSIliiPPsSPIP-— There has been a

Furnace Door hung I^^^^^^S'B' 1HIP1 ^reat ^eman<^ ^or tn^

Boiler, &c., as shown ^^Sj^M^^ftf attending it has been

in illustration, thus "sB^ general.

The largest and most complete Stock of

HOT-WATER BOILERS OF EVERY DESCRIPTION,

PIPES, CONNECTIONS, VALVES, VENTILATING GEAR,dc.,

AND INVITE INSPECTION OF SAME.

Price List on application, Free, Illustrated Catalogue, One Shilling.

TJ:P:PER GrKOUND STREET,

ADVERTISEMENTS.

ORCHIDS A SEECIALTY.

The stock at the Clapton Nursery is of such, magnitude, that without
seeing it, it is not easy to form an adequate conception of its unprece-
dented extent.

EOSES, FRUIT TREES, VINES, ORNAMENTAL-LEAVED
and FLOWERING PLANTS in variety, and of fine quality.

The glass structures cover an area of 297,300/ee£. Inspection invited.

HUGH LOW & CO.,

CLAPTON NURSERY, LONDO N;

AND

BUSH HILL PARK NURSERY, ENFIELD.
TO COMPETITORS.

OUR House is now the recognised source of many of the most reliable
strains of Flowers and Vegetables in the Market. Ever since its
foundation we have made the requirements of Exhibitors and Competitors
our special study, and our Specialties have become so firmly established in
public favour that every season marks a considerable increase in the demand
for them.

SPECIALTIES.

Flowers.
PANSIES

DAHLIAS

PHLOXES

ROSES

MARIGOLDS

CARNATIONS

ASTERS, &c.

Vegetables,

LEEKS

PARSLEY

PARSNIPS

TURNIPS

BEETROOT

ONIONS

CELERY, &c.

Our Descriptive Catalogue and Competitor's Guide, extending to over
100 pages, will be sent Gratis and Post Free to all who apply for it.

BOBBIE & Co., Seed Growers & Florists, Rothesay, Scotland.

•

RETURN TO the circulation desk of any
University of California Library

or to the

NORTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY
Bldg. 400, Richmond Field Station
University of California
Richmond, CA 94804-4698

ALL BOOKS MAY BE RECALLED AFTER 7 DAYS

• 2-month loans may be renewed by calling
(510)642-6753

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books to NRLF

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DO I

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