The unheated greenhouse

THE UNHEATED
GREENHOUSE

DEPT. OF AGR1CUL.S JHE
OiV. OF AGR'L EDVCAT10N

THE

LIFE

THE UNHEATED
GREENHOUSE

BY

K. L. DAVIDSON

PUBLISHED BY

"COUNTRY LIFE," LTD. GEORGE NEWNES, LTD.
20, TAVISTOCK STREET 3-12, SOUTHAMPTON ST.

COVENT GARDEN, W.C. COVENT GARDEN, W.C.

1907

DEPT. OF
DiV. OF ACiR'L fiJUVCATlUN

Main TKJ.
Agric.' Dept

CONTENTS

CHAP. PACK

I. ITS ADVANTAGES . i

II. ON TYPICAL COLD GREENHOUSES . . . 8

III. SOME HINTS ON CONSTRUCTION . . . .15

IV. REGULATION OF TEMPERATURE .... 23
V. PLANTS SUITABLE AND UNSUITABLE . . 30

VI. THE ALPINE HOUSE 38

VII. FOLIAGE PLANTS FOR GROUPING .... 43

VIII. BULBS AND TUBERS — I. HARDY SPECIES . > „ 49

IX. BULBS AND TUBERS— II. HALF-HARDY SPECIES 57

X. LILIES 66

XI. FLOWERING SHRUBS 73

XII. SOME HARD- WOODED PLANTS . . . .81

XIII. ROSES . . . . . . . . .89

XIV. HARDY PERENNIALS FOR SPRING ... 94
XV. AUTUMN PERENNIALS UNDER GLASS . ,. 101

XVI. ANNUALS AND BIENNIALS . * . • • . . .107

XVII. HARDY ORCHIDS . . . . . . 116

XVIII. SUCCULENT PLANTS ... . . .121

XIX. THE POTTING SHED—SUMMER QUARTERS . .128

XX. ROUTINE WORK , . . - , . . . 133

APPENDIX . . .... . » . 143

INDEX ; .. . ;' . - » • « • 241

201885

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

To fact
page

Rhododendron Ciliatum in the Himalayan House at Kew .

Frontispiece

Campanula Pyramidalis in conservatory . . . . 10

View of the East Corridor in the Botanic Garden,

Edinburgh . . . . ... . .n

The Alpine House in Royal Gardens, Kew . . . 38

Interior of the Alpine House, Kew . . . , . 39

Lysimachia Crispidens . ' . 42

Thalictrum Anemonoides . . . . . , .43
Lilium Longiflorum in pots . . * . . . . 44
Simple Grouping of Summer Plants .... . 45
The Stag's Horn Fern . . ... •, . 46

A Hardy Fernery 47

Asparagus Sprengeri . . , ...*,. .48
Chionodoxa (Glory of the Snow) and Iris Rosenbachiana . 49
Fontin's Lily of the Valley ....... 52

A Winter Flowering Iris (I. Stylosa Alba) .... 53

Lachenalias . ... . . . . . .62

A Rare White Nerine . . ., . . . , . 63
Funkia Tardiflora . .... * . .... 64

Arthropodium Cirratum ... . . . "65

Best Form of Madonna Lily (Lilium Candidum) . . . 66
Yucca Guaternalensis in the Temperate House at Kew . 67
Lilies Grown in Tub . . . ;..... . •» 68

Hoheria Populnea . .. ^ .,.*.. . . . 78

Rhododendron Proecox in the Temperate House at Kew . 79

viii LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

Tojetc*
P*&*

Eriostemon Myoporoides . . ... . .84

Glory Pea (Clianthus Puniceus) . » ' . . . . .85

Rose Niphetos as a Pot Plant . . . . . . 92

Rose Jersey Beauty as a Pot Plant . « . i . 93

Broad-leaved Siberian Saxifrage (Megasea Ligulata) . . 96

Shortia Galacifolia . . . . ± ' *" • 97

Primula Marginata . . . . . . . . . . 98

Auriculas .... •-.*-, •..„'.. > , ^. .. 99

Syraphyandra Wanneri . . . . j ^ . . 100

Campanula Isophylla Alba . . .* . . . -\ 101

Campanula Fergusoni . . » . . . ' . .104

Salvia Azurea Grandiflora . . ... • . . 105

Hybrid Cineraria, Kew . .' . ' . . V. . 108

Marguerite Carnations . , . ' . . . . . 109

Cypripedium Acaule . . . . .V .116

Orchis Latifolia , . . . .... . 117

Cypripedium Pubesceus .... • . . . . 118

Group of Sarracenias . . . !. . , . '. 119

Succulent House at Kew . . , . . ; \ . 122

Cereus Triangularis . . * . . . . . 123

Mesembryanthemum Roseum in South Devon "' . J . ; . 124

Sedum Ternatum . . . » ;. . . . 125

^ OF THE

UNIVERSITY

OF

THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE
CHAPTER I

ITS ADVANTAGES

IT is a strange fact that while every other branch of garden-
ing has made giant strides during recent years the unheated
greenhouse still remains neglected and unhonoured. The
outdoor border of hardy perennials has its votaries by the
thousand, and well it may. The heated glass-house is
to be found in most gardens, but it is a question whether
a tenth part of the ^pleasure can be obtained from it
all the year round that may be found in the successful
management of an unheated greenhouse by the skilful
amateur who, whether he rejoices in the aid of a gardener
or no, prefers to keep a corner where he may "potter
about " at his own sweet will amongst his plants, and
work with his own hands on their behalf. This is mainly
due to the vicissitudes of our changeful English climate,
which for practically half the year makes outdoor gardening
impossible for most people, and the heated house dangerous.
But both the joys of the open garden and, in a measure,
even those of the hot-house may be combined and enhanced
under the sheltering roof of the unheated greenhouse, as I
hope to be able to show in the following notes, which are
faithful records of many years of practical experience.

It is well from the starting-point to have a clear under-

A

2 THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE

standing of what is meant by a cold greenhouse. It is one in
which it is neither convenient nor desirable to have a fixed
heating apparatus, and in which it is only intended to prevent
the temperature from falling below 35° or, in other words,
simply to keep out frost. The term " fixed " is used
advisedly, for though there may be cases of glass corridors or
of a larger glass-garden in which an ordinary fixed flow-and-
return pipe might answer better than a removable apparatus,
it must be borne in mind that the main principle of the
unheated greenhouse — except during the few dead and dark
weeks which precede and follow the shortest day, or on the
occasion of a sudden fall of temperature or of damping fog —
is to keep it cool enough for the plants of temperate regions,
which alone are suitable to be grown in it. It goes without
saying that the mere shelter of glass will not keep out severe
frost. Therefore some means of raising the temperature
under certain conditions of weather, to be considered later,
are not forbidden to the cold greenhouse; but artificial
heat being, in a general way, not only needless but undesir-
able, it should be on all accounts as temporary in its character
as possible. Heating power of even the most temporary
character may be entirely dispensed with, as in the case of an
alpinery, which is one of the most delightful forms of the cold
greenhouse, but, of necessity, it limits in some degree the
choice of plants.

It must be confessed that such unheated glass-houses are by
no means in favour. The professional gardener, as a rule,
pins his faith to the boiler and pipes, and looks askance at
the plants which will thrive in a temperature lower than from
60° to 80°. Tinctured with the hurry and impatience of
slow results characteristic of the age, he rejoices in the quick
development of fine showy plants, and it is not to be denied
that splendid success follows his skilful culture. Much of the
success is ephemeral, however, not to say stereotyped. One

ITS ADVANTAGES 3

may go into greenhouse after greenhouse and find beautiful
and well-grown foliage and flowers, undoubtedly, but all of
the same stamp. It is seldom that a new and distinct plant
arrests one's steps and arouses one's enthusiasm, and how
rarely does one see nowadays the grand specimens of hard-
wooded plants which were the pride and glory of a past
generation, but which took both time and patience to build
up. To-day the gardener's art consists in turning out plants
wholesale, and it is not too often that he has any incentive
from his employers to rise above it, and truly enough it saves
a "power of trouble." The amateur, on the other hand,
longs to move out of the common groove, and grudges no
trouble, but he taxes the capabilities of his unheated house
beyond its reasonable limits, and it fails. Midwinter finds
him mourning over half-frozen flowers, which, in the quaint
phrase of our forefathers, refuse to " blow," and will scarcely
even exist. He also, therefore, denounces his cold greenhouse
as a fraud, because he has grown plants in it which cannot
thrive in a low temperature, and either practically gives it up
or orders a furnace. Thus both professional gardener and
untutored amateur agree in condemning the cold greenhouse,
though from different points of view.

Now my plea is not for unheated greenhouses as against
hot-houses. We cannot do without the lovely flowers of the
tropics — the Allamandas and Dipladenias, the Palms, and the
Orchids, which are such a delight to all flower-lovers. Let us
have these by all means, but all the same we need not over-
look the numberless hardier plants, not inferior to them in
beauty, which are grateful for the simple shelter of glass, and
will give us of their best without the expense and labour
involved by an elaborate heating apparatus. Believe me, the
gardener's — and more especially the amateur gardener's —
troubles are not at an end when his greenhouse is fully
equipped with boiler and quadruple rows of pipes. Let us,

4 THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE

then, consider chiefly the advantages and disadvantages, or
rather limitations, of the unheated greenhouse for the practical
gardener.

HEALTHFULNESS

There are hundreds of delicate people who dare not venture
to stand about out of doors on a chill autumn or winter's day
to superintend garden operations who yet, of all recreations,
best enjoy the tending and environment of plants. The
relaxing heat of a stove is equally insupportable for any length
of time, and abrupt transitions from the moist warmth, even
of an intermediate house, into the freezing outer air, or a sudden
grappling with a keen easterly blast, is more than even the
strongest can stand without risk. It is no small boon, then,
on a dreary winter's day to have a place of shelter, neither too
cold nor too hot, and a possible occupation where an hour or
two may be safely spent in the company of the plants we love.
It is a melancholy fact that the glass-house, seen from outside
as a garden adjunct, is not itself, in an artistic sense, a thing
of beauty. It is even worse than a mere negative, and some-
times becomes a positive eyesore. All the more reason,
therefore, that the inner aspect should atone for the outer,
that when we enter it we may be tempted by a genial atmo-
sphere to linger long to enjoy the loveliness of leaf and flower,
without a vague dread of an evil genius of bronchitis or rheu-
matism hovering about us with shadowing wing. If we have
the true gardening spirit there will always be some work to do,
some new interest to discover. Outside, the rain may patter
on the glass or the bare boughs toss in the whistling wind,
and only the pale Hellebore or perhaps a belated China Rose
ventures to brave the inclement season before the Snowdrops
come; but within, while we run no risks, we may have
greenery and tender spring tints and scents of early Hyacinth
and Iris, of Violet and Crocus, and a host of flowers which

ITS ADVANTAGES 5

only ask the gentle coaxing of a little shelter to bless us for
our courtesy by stealing, with innocent guile, a few hours
from the "winter of our discontent."

MODERATE COST

" Who loves a garden loves a greenhouse too," and if this
were true in Cowper's day, it is no less true in ours. We are
becoming every day more and more a nation of gardeners, and
no sooner does the passion for growing plants seize upon us
than the necessity of some shelter for them in severe weather
makes itself felt. The fine crop of glass-houses which has
sprung up over the length and breadth of the land during the
last half-century took its origin, probably, from the urgent
need of saving through the winter the bedding plants which
were to fill the garden beds in summer. Cheap as glass
and woodwork may be now, the greenhouse was formerly in
many cases the outcome of much cogitation and self-denial in
small luxuries, to end after all, not seldom, in disappointment,
for the heating, through ignorance of its need, had been over-
looked, and the very considerable expense of a boiler and pipe§
had never entered into the calculation. Bedding plants are
not quite so much in vogue as of yore, but still the wail goes
up — scarcely a week passes but it may be heard in country
home, in rectory, or in suburban villa — " We can't save our
Geraniums " — geranium being a generic term handy for daily
use — " because we have no heat in the greenhouse." And it
is very true, for here we come to the limitations of the cold-
house. In it we must not expect to grow the plants which
require heat in winter to bring them to perfection. Pelar-
goniums, it is true, will exist in a temperature that never falls
below 35°, and some will even stand a slight frost, as is seen
by the vigorous specimens to be seen occasionally against a
wall under the sheltering eaves of a cottage in Devon or

6 THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE

Cornwall, but they are not the type of plant best suited for the
unheated greenhouse. Generally, in these cases, it is a ques-
tion of expense. Either there is no means of heating or no
efficient member of the household to discharge the duty of
attending to the greenhouse fire, or it may be the cost of fuel
which must be considered — with the usual result of a useless
greenhouse. Expense may be of little consequence in some
gardens, but these are in the minority. Even to those who
are ready to spare no expense the coal bill in these days of
exorbitant prices becomes a question of some moment, and it
is astonishing what a capacious maw is possessed by the
monster called a greenhouse furnace. On the score, then,
both of initial cost of a permanent heating apparatus and a
constantly recurring expense for fuel, I rest a second plea for
the cold greenhouse, in spite of its limitations with regard to
certain classes of tender plants.

SIMPLICITY OF MANAGEMENT

The garden-lover who has no experienced helper — perhaps
also some who professedly have — knows full well the wretched
trick the furnace is apt to play of going out on the very night
of the hardest frost of the year, of pipes bursting at incon-
venient seasons, and the misery of rinding plants ruined and the
work of many a happy though arduous day lost for ever.
Needless to descant on the daily and nightly joys of the stoke-
hole, even when all goes well. But if there be risks and im-
pediments such as these when the thermometer falls below
freezing-point, there are difficulties more insidious, but none
the less real, in regulating a high temperature. Plants grow
with amazing rapidity in heat, and the novice is delighted with
his early success ; but, alas ! they also lengthen, and before
long his plants, like the unfortunates celebrated by Tennyson

ITS ADVANTAGES 7

which were " by squares of tropic summer shut and warmed
in crystal cases," are apt to meet the same fate, or —

" These, though fed with careful dirt,

Are neither green nor sappy ;
Half-conscious of the garden squirt,
The spindlings look unhappy."

Unhappily, too, other things grow as fast as the spindlings.
Aphis is but a feeble foe, comparatively speaking, and easily
to be overcome ; but the horror of a visitation of mealy bug
— the plague of the hothouse — is not to be described, and scale
is nearly as noxious. In the unheated greenhouse the annoy-
ance of such direful insect pests is greatly lessened, and the
careful gardener need have none of them. On the score, then,
of simplicity of management, I rest my third plea.

To sum up, therefore : For health of enjoyment, for mini-
mum of expense, and for easy handling, the unheated green-
house presents certain advantages not heedlessly to be over-
looked by the lover of plants who makes a hobby of cultivating
them for his own pleasure. Add to these somewhat prosaic
advantages the great charm of seeking out and making friends
with rare and unusual plants, of persuading them to grow and
do well under unwonted conditions, of bringing fragments from
far distant lands to remind us of happy hours spent under
sunnier skies, or of raising seedlings sent from furthest corners
of the Empire to show the diverse flora of the environment of
new homes. In such manifold ways the cold greenhouse at all
times of the year never fails the intelligent gardener. It is
subject to no great extremes of temperature, it may be large or
small as means or strength will permit, it may be planted out
to form a garden under glass, or it may be used exclusively for
pot plants. It steps in midway between garden and hothouse,
sharing and prolonging the pleasures of the one and giving a
safe haven to the refugees of the other.

CHAPTER II
ON TYPICAL COLD GREENHOUSES

THE unheated greenhouse may be represented by four distinct
types, which can be classed as follows : i. The glass-garden.
2. The garden corridor. 3. The conservatory. 4. The
ordinary span, or lean-to greenhouse. Under each of these
heads a few remarks will be necessary.

THE GLASS-GARDEN

Under the somewhat clumsy name — for want of a better —
of the glass-garden it is intended to express the greenhouse
adapted for the permanent planting of shrubs and climbers.
It is, in fact, a garden in miniature, covered by glass, but re-
quiring no interior furnishing, as of stands or stages, other
than the plants themselves. The laying out of the beds,
borders, and pathways must be controlled by the size of the
structure and the kind of plants, be they shrubs or be they
alpines, to be grown in it ; but while the main planting is per-
manent, it can and should be so arranged as to leave ample
room for the introduction of successional plants. This, in
outline, is the idea of the glass-garden • and while it may be
the most ambitious, it is, perhaps, also the most delightful,
type of the cold greenhouse. Such a house may be of grand
dimensions — an annexe, possibly, of one of the long ranges of
glass-houses to be found in many a stately garden, constructed

ON TYPICAL COLD GREENHOUSES 9

chiefly for the winter protection of flowering shrubs and bulbs,
and for the purpose of giving interest and enjoyment, together
with a certain amount of exercise, to those who are debarred
from taking an active share in the more vigorous pursuits of
healthy outdoor English life.

It stands to reason, to begin with, that the construction, as
well as the planting, of such a winter garden requires both
judgment and good taste, and will give ample scope for the
exercise of a thorough knowledge of suitable subjects. Here,
too, is a case in point, where a cold greenhouse may reason-
ably be fitted with a single or even double flow-and-return pipe,
as required by the size of the building, in connection with the
main boiler, but so furnished with valves as to shut off all heat,
except when absolutely needful to keep out frost or to put the
air in circulation to prevent stagnant damp. It is not hard to
picture a grand glass-garden of this kind, large enough to give
a permanent home to the flowering Acacias, Himalayan Rhodo-
dendrons, Boronias, Correas, and the like, which, though
tender, live and flower profusely out of doors in sheltered
positions in the favoured climate — for example, of the Isles of
Scilly. It may be taken for granted that all shrubs and plants
— and their name is legion — that will live happily in the open
air in our southernmost counties are fit subjects to thrive well
under the shelter of glass, assisted, in the hardest weather only,
by just so much artificial heat as will suffice to prevent the ther-
mometer falling below 35°. Any of us who have had experi-
ence of the difference in well-doing between plants grown in
pots and those which receive the more generous treatment of
the greenhouse border will readily understand the advantages
offered on this point by the glass-garden. Such a house should
be under the charge of an exceptionally intelligent gardener,
well instructed and interested in the cultivation of hardy
and half-hardy plants, who will take a pride in making use of
the heating apparatus as sparingly as possible. The idea,

io THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE

however, of a coalition between hardy plants and a glass shelter
has hardly as yet permeated the minds of any but a few
garden enthusiasts ; but this slur will not long be cast upon
English gardens. Kew has taken the initiative in the costly
and splendid new wing which has been added within the last
few years to the Temperate range of glass-houses, and it is
there we must go to learn what may be done on the grandest
scale in the glass-garden. It is true that ample provision is
there made for raising the temperature, but it is used only in
case of need, and we come upon frequent mention of the "big
unheated greenhouse " in notices of plants in flower in the
Gardens. This covered-in garden, with its rare and lovely
shrubs and exquisite Lilies, forms one of the most delightful
attractions of Kew, which has so worthily earned, especially of
late years, the appreciation and gratitude of all true garden
lovers.

But we need not despair if, on the other hand, our winter
garden must be of very modest character, and if our wish is to
do without heating at all, even of the most temporary and re-
movable kind. So be it. There is plenty of material at hand
if one chooses without trespassing an inch upon dubitable
ground, and quite as much pleasure and happiness to be gained
in the use of it. I remember well the description of such
a winter garden given in tfie pages of the Garden perhaps
twenty years ago. In it there were neither hot-water pipes nor
heating of any sort to get out of order and worry the contented
owner, who was, nevertheless, under no great concern for his
plants even in the midst of the hardest of black frosts, for he
took care to grow only such as could pass through it unscathed,
and who revelled in the fairest of spring bulbs and early
flowers long before the open garden could boast of more than
a chance blossom here and there. Very tew — more's the pity
— have been found to follow so good a lead and attain as great
a reward.

ON TYPICAL COLD GREENHOUSES n

THE GARDEN CORRIDOR

The unheated greenhouse may take on occasion the form of
a glass corridor, and when this happens to be a lean-to passage-
way connecting garden structures, or it may be outlying rooms
of a dwelling, it is the place of all others in which to grow
specimens of the rarer flowering shrubs, such as Carpenteria
californica, which succeed best when trained against a wall,
and which are all the better for having their root-room restricted
by a narrow border. Sometimes a glass corridor may more
conveniently have a span roof, as, for example, in cases where
there is no carriage-way to the entrance of the house, and more
or less distance has to be crossed in bad weather before
reaching shelter. A covered way, under such circumstances,
though not in itself beautiful, is a boon to guests, and some
method of making a simple glass-passage of the kind present-
able at small expense is no less a boon sometimes to the host.
There are plenty of hardy climbers of which use may be made,
like the finer kinds of Clematis and Jasmines, of Ivy and of
Vine, not to speak of Tea Roses, which are the glory of the
cold-house gardener, while a corridor is a most fitting place
for Agapanthus or Crinum Moorei, or any such grand but
unwieldy plants, which are best grown in tubs or in Italian
pottery of the massive sort. The only wonder is, with such
wealth of fine and easily grown plants of every kind and habit
at command, that our glass-houses should, even at this date,
be so indifferently furnished as to variety, which the majority
of them undoubtedly are.

But further discussion of suitable subjects for cold green-
house treatment must be set aside for the present, and we
must turn to the less ambitious types of glass-house, to be
found in everybody's garden, which are mainly under the
personal control of the owner, with or without the help of a
gardener.

12 THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE

THE CONSERVATORY

There are two forms of glass-house common to the gardens
of most country homes : the conservatory, which adjoins the
dwelling, and into which one or more of the sitting-rooms
generally open ; and the greenhouse, which finds its separate
place, with more or less aptitude for its purpose, in the garden.
Now, " conservatory " is a pretentious name, and it might be
wished that one more modest could be coined to replace it ;
but it would seem as if few folk were alive to the fact that
conservatory and greenhouse are not convertible terms. Yet
the difference between them is plain and well marked — a
conservatory being a shelter where plants in flower may be
shown and admired, while the greenhouse is the home and, at
times, the hospital of plants in growth. Where only one of
these exists, doubtless there must be some adaptation to
circumstances ; but it can scarcely be too much insisted on that
the conservatory is not intended to be turned into a working
greenhouse, as is too often done. If it must be, then I venture
to urge that it is better to draw a curtain between sitting-room
and the inevitable dishevelment of the garden workshop, and
to let a cheerful bay-window, a glass porch, or any other
convenient position receive the plants we have cherished, when
they are ready to be displayed in their beauty. The con-
servatory, being, in fact, an ante-chamber or vestibule to the
living-rooms of the house, should be, equally with these, always
in good order. One of the first considerations, therefore, is to
keep it clean.

This very trite assertion may provoke a jeer, but only
those who have held the reins of management in their own
hands can have any idea of the way in which debris of withered
leaves and fallen flowers accumulate, to say nothing of evil
pests in the shape of slugs and caterpillars, woodlice and
centipedes, which stray in and hide under stages and in odd

ON TYPICAL COLD GREENHOUSES 13

corners j and how important it is to keep clear of the unavoid-
able mustiness which comes of more or less perpetual damp.
For this reason it is strongly to be recommended that a con-
servatory be used strictly for pot plants, that there should be
no heavy fixed stages and no inside border for permanent
planting of shrubs or climbers, in order that, at short intervals,
the house may be emptied and thoroughly cleaned and
rearranged. Stands or stages should be used mainly as aids in
the grouping of plants, and the lighter and more unobtrusive
and easily movable they are the better. These points are
touched upon lightly here, for they must be reverted to later,
and will very likely be regarded as fads; but experience
teaches. Cleanliness and good order, with fresh, healthy
plants, well grouped and not always in the same stereotyped
position, go far to make even a small conservatory not only
the joy and pride of its owner but a pleasure to all who see it.
A conservatory of this kind, however, necessitates some sort
of separate and extra resource to act as feeder to it, and this
may be found in cold frames or pits, or in a working green-
house, from whence plants may be brought, and to which
they can be returned when their flowering is over.

THE WORKING GREENHOUSE

The ordinary span or lean-to greenhouse usually finds its
place in some corner of the garden, and generally is — and
ought to be — furnished with a front bench and some sort of
stage. Dampness and a certain amount of " undress " here is
not out of place. One's plants are in their nursery, or, it may
be, recruiting ; pans of seedlings may stand about ; Ferns may
be tucked away under the stage ; a Mardchal Niel, with its
roots in an inside border, or any other climbers one may
desire, can be trained up the rafters or on the back- wall ; and
pruned back-plants, however shabby-looking, need not hide

14 THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE

their diminished heads. What would be incongruous and
unsightly in the conservatory is here natural and right. There
is little, perhaps, to be said on so well-worn a theme for the
present ; but certain points of construction, important to be
considered in putting up any of the types of unheated glass-
houses here spoken of, remain to be suggested. Only this let
me add. It is the working greenhouse that is the best of all
— the sanctum sanctorum of the gardener. Who but those
who know it can fathom the peace, the rest, the depth of
happiness to be found within its hallowed precincts. What
marvels of plant life open out there to the patient observer,
what strange vagaries of the germination of seeds, what
mysterious processes in the germination of Ferns ; what rare
loveliness in the silent building up, leaf by leaf, of even the
commonest plant ; what exquisite art in the gradual laying on
of colours and moulding of buds and flowers ! Aye ! but
treasures such as these are only unfolded to the vision of the
devout lover who thinks no toil too great that will unlock the
cabinet of Nature's secrets ; whose hand is not afraid to risk
the roughness of daily tending; whose ear is awake to
whispers so low that they are unheeded by idle passers-by ;
whose eye is quick to note the changes of an hour. Such
reverent students learn to worship while they work, and to
them, in the uplifting symbolism of Eastern speech, plants and
flowers become, in very truth, as " the fringes of the garment
of God."

CHAPTER III
SOME HINTS ON CONSTRUCTION

Too often it happens that we are the victims of circumstance
and have to make the best of what falls to our lot, but when
we can be the architects of our own fortunes in greenhouse
matters it is well to know beforehand exactly what we want.
Without pretending to enter too much into details, which must
be regulated by individual cases, let me set down a few points
of construction of special importance to the well-doing of
the unheated greenhouse which have come under my own
notice.

ASPECT

To begin with, a few words on aspect, which, though they
may apply equally well to all plant-houses, may not be out of
place here. It is generally admitted that for the successful
culture of plants a span house, wherever it is possible, is far
and away the best form of glass structure. It is warmer and
lighter, and in it a genial atmosphere can be more easily
maintained. An open position, away from high walls and
trees, should be chosen for its site, with a run, by pre-
ference, from east to west which, on the whole, gives the
best results. But a lean-to house is often a necessity, and, in
such circumstances, should be placed, if possible, against a
south wall, especially when it is required for the bringing on
of early flowering shrubs or bulbs, and general working

16 THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE

purposes. For a conservatory the case is different, and east,
west, or even north, should be chosen rather than a southern
aspect, which is generally far too scorching in spring and
summer for the well being of plants in flower, though neces-
sarily colder in winter. It has happened to me to enter into
possession of a conservatory so badly planned at the outset,
though intended to be imposing, and such a veritable sun-
trap, that it was hopeless to try to keep it well arranged with
fresh-looking foliage or flowers. Ultimately it was turned into
an abode for Cacti and succulent plants, for which it was
passably well adapted. For strictly decorative purposes,
therefore, a north aspect may be not without its advantages.
Otherwise it is to be avoided, as it can only be used success-
fully for certain shade-loving plants, of which Lapageria may
be given as a notable example.

It is well to remember that under any aspect — favourable
or otherwise — something in the way of plant life may be found
to which the special circumstances are exactly suited, and
so, when these are adverse, to take courage. It sometimes
happens that a most unpromising greenhouse may turn out
to be a blessing in disguise. A lean-to house in a north
aspect, for example, has been found before now to be specially
well adapted for the culture of certain fine Orchids, such as
Disas, and for New Zealand Filmy Ferns.

Site and aspect being chosen, the special needs of the
unheated greenhouse must be considered. These are dryness,
ventilation, and shading.

DRYNESS

It may seem absurd to insist upon dryness as an essential
point in a plant-house, which, from its very purpose, must be
more or less damp; but there is always a point when a
blessing may become a curse, and of all worries and annoy-

SOME HINTS ON CONSTRUCTION 17

ances in a cold greenhouse there are none greater than drip.
The evil is not so urgent in summer, though even then there
are bulbs put aside to ripen, or succulent plants on no account
to be over-watered, which the drip is sure to visit in prefer-
ence to the moisture-loving plant a foot or two distant ; but
in winter, when heavy rain is often speedily followed by hard
frost, to have pot plants soaked with water and then frozen
is simple ruin, and means many a heart-break. It is by no
means a very easy matter to avoid this trouble, and carpenters
inexperienced in horticultural building have sometimes to be
employed, especially in the country, and they are apt to make
mistakes. It is probably safer to put all such work into the
hands of some well-known and established firm, but it is a
very general practice in these days to obtain woodwork and
glass all ready to put together and to do the fitting on the
spot with such assistance as is at hand. When this is done
care should be taken to insist on well-seasoned wood, the
lack of which is a fruitful source of mischief. Forewarned is
forearmed, and a few hints to those who have to overlook an
inexpert workman or to do the fitting themselves may be
helpful. The slope of the roof, the quality and lap of the
glass, and the shooting to carry off the surplus rainfall, are all
matters of moment which cannot be provided for at haphazard
with impunity. It is an axiom well understood by gardeners,
but not so well by amateurs, that a plant-house should be no
higher than is actually necessary for the plants grown in it,
allowing, of course, comfortable head-room for the cultivator.
In other words, the plants should be as near the light
as possible, a lofty house in most cases being positively
detrimental to them. On the other hand, a low-pitched
house will, as gardeners say, " keep the moisture down,"
which means a damp-laden atmosphere. Now this is just
what is wanted in some cases — e.g., in a Cucumber pit —
where strong heat and heavy moisture are essential factors in

i8 THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE

successful culture ; but in an unheated house moist air, which
in winter is liable to be stagnant and must be chill, is exactly
what we have to avoid. To put it more accurately, we must
have it in our power to regulate the degree of atmospheric
damp, supplying moisture when required in hot, dry weather,
but keeping mostly on the side of moderate dryness both in
summer and winter. Where the roof is steep, however, hot
sunshine will cause a rapid upward current, which dries the
air so thoroughly that plants will quickly droop, and unless
constantly refreshed they will soon hang out signals of supreme
distress in the way of blight. Not only so, but a steep roof
takes more glass and presents a greater surface to frost. A
happy mean must therefore be struck, and it lies between the
two extremes of 25° and 35°, or at most 40°, with the proviso
that the house be kept as low as it reasonably can be in
accordance with its proposed purpose, whether it be for
dwarf-growing alpines or flowering shrubs or Roses. For a
small house 20 ft. by 12 ft., a good average slope would be
37°, for if the width be narrow a higher pitch is required to
give standing room ; but in planning a house it is much
better to allow for as much breadth as possible, as it will be
found more convenient in every way.

Careful glazing is essential. Glass of 2 1 oz. quality should
always be used, to save breakage amongst other reasons, and
a good average size for the panes is 22 in. by 14 in.

It was pleaded not long ago in a monthly serial of high
artistic authority that greenhouses should be built "as of
old, with small sheets of glass laid thickly overlapping, and
more proof against scorching and freezing than the neat, big-
sheeted, modern kinds," and from an artistic point of view
this advice cannot be gainsaid. There is truth, too, in the
argument that thick overlapping may give more shade in
summer and greater protection in winter, though it does not
counterbalance other disadvantages; but greenhouses, un-

SOME HINTS ON CONSTRUCTION 19

happily, are not picturesque, and we must be content mean-
while with the practical side of the question. So let the
gardener court all the light that is so essential a factor in the
wellbeing of plants. An overlap of half an inch is quite
enough. When it is broader green mould collects, which is
not even picturesque in its ugliness, while in hard frosts the
moisture which lodges becomes frozen, and very often cracks
the glass. Smoothly ground edges to fit closely without any
lap are sometimes recommended, but the panes are liable to
slip and occasion needless trouble. In any case this plan is
better left unattempted by unskilled hands. As a hint to an
inexperienced glazier, and to ensure a water-tight roof, the
squares should be well bedded in putty, which must be neatly
trimmed off within and without — no outside putty being
required — and it is well to use, besides, four brass-tacks to
keep each pane in place. If these small details are not over-
looked, and the woodwork kept at all times thoroughly well
painted inside and out, there ought to be no fear of annoy-
ance from drip. An excellent method adopted by a thoroughly
practical horticultural architect is slightly to round off the
lower edge of each pane of glass, which attracts the wet to the
middle point and greatly lessens the risk of drip.

No less important is it to avoid ground-damp, and a good
brick or concrete path in a working greenhouse is a great
boon. In a conservatory opening out of rooms a flooring of
tiles that are non-porous is very desirable. Flags are
commonly used for this purpose, especially in the country,
and perhaps look better, but they " hold the wet," and if
quite plain tiles are chosen there need be nothing to offend
the eye, while the gain is great. In hot weather the floor can
be sprinkled several times a day, and the moisture will
quickly find its way into the air and leave no puddles behind
it. Borders are not to be recommended, as has been said
before, or any kind of planting out in a conservatory,

20 THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE

especially in a small one, partly, though not wholly, on
account of ground-damp, but this must be a matter for
individual taste to decide.

Delightful as it is to look out upon a garden picture of
bright flowers close at hand when all beyond is shrouded in
fog or iron-bound in frost, it must be granted that a good
deal of damp, very undesirable but easily communicated to a
sitting-room, is a not infrequent sequence of the privilege,
especially when the conservatory is unheated. It can be
mitigated, however, if not altogether avoided, overhead by
the thoroughly sufficient system of glazing that has been here
recommended for the prevention of drip, and under foot by a
floor tiled throughout, which effectually precludes the rising
of moisture from the ground.

SHOOTING

An abundant supply of rain-water close at hand is
important, no less for the convenience of the cultivator than
for the welfare of his plants, and no working greenhouse
should be built without a tank of some sort to hold the rain-
fall from the roof and proper gutters to convey it into the
right receptacle. The waste of water in this land of ours is
enormous, and it is a subject which calls for much more
serious consideration by experts than has hitherto been given
to it. In a small way — e.g., from the roofs of glass-houses in
private gardens — much good, pure water is allowed to run
away for want of proper shooting, soaking into the ground,
where it makes a swamp and doing harm where it should be
an unmixed good. A well-cemented covered tank below the
ground level with a pump is perhaps the most convenient
form of reservoir, as its holding capacity may be as great, in
reason, as space and circumstance will permit, and certainly
greater than that of any cistern that can be placed in the

SOME HINTS ON CONSTRUCTION 21

greenhouse itself. An open tank possesses this advantage,
however, that the water it contains is tempered and never so
cold as that which is drawn from below ; but it takes up
room, and, unless very well planned, is ugly. For some
positions a barrel half-hidden by Ivy answers very well, and
may be made a pretty feature ; but, in truth, standing water
in an open tank is better outside than within an un-
heated greenhouse, so long as there is a supply close at
hand. The shooting in most general use is 3 in. "half
round " iron guttering, held up by brackets ; but 3 in.
"three-quarter round" spouting is better for heavy rain-
fall, as it is a great nuisance to have an overflow run-
ning down the glass and finding its way into the green-
house instead of into the tank. In fixing the gutters a
fall of from 3 in. to 4 in. should be allowed in a length of
50 ft.

Before passing on to other conditions of temperature
dependent on ventilation and shading, it may be well to
suggest here that much vexation and trouble will, generally
speaking, be saved if the plan of the greenhouse or con-
servatory be made on the simplest lines. As far as my
experience goes most round or octagonal houses with a
lantern-shaped addition at the top are less adapted to
answer the needs of the average amateur, as they certainly
are of the professional gardener, than the more usual
straight-lined forms, which also have the advantage of being
less costly.

One more item. It is becoming more and more the
custom to add coloured glass in some shape or form to plant-
houses. Sometimes it is intended as an embellishment,
sometimes as a screen from too neighbouring houses. Be
that as it may, it can scarcely be too forcibly stated that the
plant-grower who is content with plain, clear panes will find
himself the happier man in the long run. The question of

22 THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE

taste is another matter. Here we are only concerned with
the best methods of growing plants under certain condi-
tions and enjoying them to the utmost, and my earnest
advice to any one who has it in his mind to build a green-
house is to eschew all and every sort of stained glass in
its construction.

CHAPTER IV

REGULATION OF TEMPERATURE

IT must be always borne in mind that shelter, not coddling, is
the aim and end of the unheated greenhouse, and the grand
difficulty in face of cold-house gardening is how to maintain
a fairly equable temperature. When the selection is limited
to strictly hardy plants, the regulation of cold is, probably, of
less importance than that of heat, but when half-hardy plants
and bulbs come within the range of our desires (and it is
well that they should) the greenhouse thermometer in winter
must not be allowed at any time to fall below 35° Fahr.,
which is the lowest temperature at which frost can safely be
kept at bay. But the owner of an unheated plant-house aims
at reaching a point beyond mere safety. He is ambitious
enough to hope that his winter conservatory may rival, if it
may not in some degree even surpass, the hot-house devoted
to tropical plants, in its wealth of flower and greenery gathered
together from distant quarters of the temperate zone.
Emulation, it is true, strikes but a low note in the scale of
ethics, but human nature needs a healthy stimulus to rouse it
into action, and so we are none the worse for a friendly
contest with a neighbour. But there does come a time when
winter is at its darkest and coldest, from the shortest day
onwards for a few, though only a few, hard weeks, when it
must be confessed that it is almost impossible to keep up a
bright display of flowers in a greenhouse that is totally
unheated. Not quite impossible, however, for we are by no

24 THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE

means at the end, but rather at the beginning of our possi-
bilities in this direction ; yet even very hardy plants have
a trick of looking self-conscious and rueful in a black frost,
and it is the very motive of the cold greenhouse to make
hardy plants comfortable and to coax them into earlier
flowering.

Personally I have always been quite content with a small,
portable apparatus, called a Heat Radiator, the invention of
an exceedingly able mechanician, Mr. Gillingham, of Chard,
and constructed on scientific principles. This has been
found to answer well in unheated greenhouses of moderate
dimensions — say from 15 ft. to 25 ft. in length.

The special advantage of the little brass or copper cylinder
which goes by the above name, in addition to its neat appear-
ance, is its portability. When it is out of use, it need take
up no room in the greenhouse, but may stand in any con-
venient hall or passage. Should a change of weather give
warning of danger, which sometimes happens very suddenly,
five minutes will suffice to place it in position and light the
lamp, when a rise of several degrees of temperature will
very speedily be shown on the thermometer, which should be
in every plant-house. On rare occasions it may smoke, but
this calamity — for calamity it is — is generally due to want of
care in trimming the wick, and can be avoided by the most
ordinary attention. Few things are absolutely perfect, but
the principle of the Heat Radiator is excellent — it is not
unsightly, and as far as I know, though by no means a new
invention, has never been surpassed for simplicity and
efficiency, as a temporary means of keeping out frost.

During those few dreary weeks to which reference has been
made it was always a simple matter to keep the air in
circulation on chill, foggy days, or a night temperature,
according to weather, of between 35° and 40°, which was all
that was wanted to make Daffodils and winter Iris and a host

REGULATION OF TEMPERATURE 25

of charming spring flowers hold up their heads in happy
contrast to their fellows in the garden outside.

There are several other inventions for the purpose, none of
them perhaps without some drawback, and every season sees
new additions to the list. A demand seriously maintained
for a perfect removable apparatus of sufficient power to keep
out frost will surely call forth exactly what is required.

It may be worth while to make a note of a very rough-
and-ready contrivance which has been successfully extemporised
on occasion for keeping out frost. An ordinary lamp is
lighted and placed on the floor, with a pillar of bricks on
each side to form a support for a very large flower-pot,
which is inverted over the chimney. Upon this a pyramid of
inverted pots, each a little smaller than the last, is built up,
and the hot air rising through the holes of the pots heats
them through and through, and thus a stove may be devised
on the spur of the moment which will diffuse an atmosphere
genial enough to keep the enemy, for the nonce, out of a
house of moderate dimensions.

VENTILATION

By some strange perversity the proper ventilation of the
amateur's greenhouse is often one of the last details of con-
struction to be considered, which would never happen if
experience could only be bought ready-made. Plenty of air
is as necessary to plant life as to human beings, and it would
seem to be as unreasonable to plan a greenhouse without
ventilation as to build a cottage with windows not made to
open ; yet it is by no means an unheard of case for a green-
house (mostly of the smaller sort) to have no other means of
ventilation than the door, while, even in more important
structures, roof ventilation is the exception rather than the
rule. For perfect efficiency there should be not ventilators

26 THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE

merely but a system of ventilation. Free circulation of air is
indispensable, but it is not always recognised on the other
hand that draught is most injurious to plant growth. The
shrivelling of tender foliage, especially of Fern fronds,
generally set down to want of water, is due, more often than
is suspected, to exposure for a few hours to cross-currents
of air. It should be possible, therefore, in all greenhouses to
"put on " and " take off" air, in gardening phrase, according
to the way of the wind, and in order that this may be
done effectively ventilators fitting closely and firmly must be
provided both at the top and at the sides of a plant-house.
A span roof 20 ft. in length should have four ventilators
placed alternately at each side, and over these, upon the
ridge, it is well to have a wooden cap as an additional safe-
guard against drip. Strong hinges of the kind called " water
joints " are to be recommended, as being more durable than
the ordinary make. In a long house it is a great saving of
labour to be able to open and shut these top ventilators
simultaneously by an iron winch. Side ventilation is provided
for, either by having the lights made to open or by wooden
shutters let into the brick walls. The latter alternative is in use,
mainly, when the span roof rests upon the wall- plate — a form
of glass-house rarely seen in any but professional gardens,
though such " pits " are admirably adapted for plant culture.

It is difficult to lay down precise rules for ventilation,
but as a general principle it must be understood that the
treatment of plants in an unheated greenhouse is in strong
contrast to that given in the stove, where a close humid
atmosphere does no harm. There are not many days in the
year, even in heavy fog, when at least a chink may not be
left open to allow free circulation of air, for though it is a
common practice to keep greenhouses closely shut in foggy
weather, a little dampness from outside is actually less harmful
than stagnant damp within. In winter it is always safer

REGULATION OF TEMPERATURE 27

to open the upper ventilators rather than those at the side.
The chief trouble comes in the early days of spring, especially
if we are ill-provided with blinds. Then the thermometer is
apt to rush up to 80° or so, on the slighest hint of bright
sunshine on the glass, while a keen wind may be blowing
from north and east. It is often hard enough, under cir-
cumstances like these, to know how to regulate the tem-
perature. The temptation is to open side-lights as well as
roof ventilators and to let in all the air we can, for scorching
heat is as bad for hardy plants as frost for those that are
half-hardy, yet even hardy plants under artificial treatment
easily " catch a chill " at the roots in this way, from which
they may never recover. At such a moment we find our-
selves on the horns of a dilemma, and very much inclined
to sympathise with the pitiable case, near akin to our own, of
the gardener of whom Mr. E. V. Lucas tells us, who wrote
to his employer : " I'm varry sorry to tell you that I cant do
enay thing with the greenhouse. I think he will kill every
plant I have sometimes he will get varry hot and another
time I cant get enay heat in him and we cant stope him from
smoking so I doant know what to do with him " ! Happily
the troubles of the cold-house gardener are in great
measure simplified, and if the ample provision which is so
essential be made for ventilation, experience will soon teach
the necessity of avoiding draught. Only let it be remembered
at the same time that a stuffy stagnant atmosphere, per-
sisted in for a few days only, will surely set up an invasion
of that very infectious complaint " damping off."

For eight months of the year it is scarcely possible to
give too much air, and where it may chance that a glass-
house is chiefly used for the shelter during winter of half-
hardy shrubs, or Roses planted out, it is an excellent plan to
have it so built that the lights can be altogether removed
when required. Of late, portable houses on rails for forcing

28 THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE

Lily-of-the- Valley and other temporary crops have come
somewhat into vogue, and some adaptation of the idea might
be of value for the glass-garden. In any case spare lights
can always be used to good purpose in various ways —
e.g., for Tomatoes during the summer — and need not lie
idle.

SHADING

It is from February onwards that shading, no less than the
ventilation, of the unheated greenhouse becomes a serious
question. The shelter of glass from storm and stress
is heartily welcome, as we know, to hardy and half-hardy
plants which flower at inclement seasons, yet no sooner does
the sun begin to shine in his strength than the glazed roof
is apt to become a funeral pall. If the scorching rays are
not by some means tempered, a sudden farewell will have to
be taken of faded and withered flowers. Tulips open wide
and pale, beneath the ardent sunbeams. Narcissi lie pros-
trate and can never more be persuaded to lift their languid
heads. Rhododendrons and Azaleas hopelessly cast off
their flowers and dangle them in an aggravating way by their
long pistils. Camellias put on brown edges in token of
mourning, and every flower seems to pant out a feeble pro-
test against the cruel fate that took them away from the fresh open
air and consigned them to a furnace — so soon are benefits
forgotten when times are changed ! But blinds of tiffany or
thin strong netting — materials which give sufficient but not
too dense shade — fixed on rollers, so that they may be raised
or lowered at pleasure, will save all this disaster. Sometimes
the sunshine lasts but an hour or two, yet every gardener
knows that more mischief can be done by an hour of neglect
than can be repaired in a season, for it is not only the
flowers that suffer, but serious and lasting injury is done by

REGULATION OF TEMPERATURE 29

the scorching and scalding of tender leaves, which are in
truth the lungs of the plants.

Permanent shading is sometimes given by washing over
the inner surface of the glass in spring with " Summer
Cloud " or some similar composition, and not removing it
until the autumn, but it is only rarely expedient. Plants
subjected to constant shade soon get drawn up in a vain
attempt to reach the light, and their leaves grow pale and
sickly. Occasionally, however, shading of this kind may be
used with advantage in a Fern-house or for a conservatory
built in the eye of the sun, the tenants of which are con-
tinually shifting their quarters. In such cases permanent
shading — *.*., for the summer — may be an actual gain, but
no clouding of the glass looks well, and it is at best but a
poor makeshift. For many years, during the bright months,
I used fixed blinds with the best success in a sunny con-
servatory which had no established occupants. These were
made of very thin strips of wood painted green, through
which the light passed freely but with a softened shade as
of sunshine in a Hazel coppice, full of restful harmony. I
never saw such as these elsewhere, but in some positions
nothing could serve the purpose better, and many comments
of approval were bestowed upon them. In most plant-
houses of the kind under consideration, however, roller-
blinds are undoubtedly the best. Where these cannot for
any reason conveniently be fixed, tiffany may be fastened to
the rafters by hooks and rings, though at the expense of a
good deal of time and trouble in putting up and taking down.
It should be hooked to the rafters rather than to the sash
bars, to allow the hot air to circulate freely between the
shading and the glass.

CHAPTER V

PLANTS SUITABLE AND UNSUITABLE

IT is natural enough for those who are young in gardening
matters to be disappointed when they are warned that plants
from the hardy and half-hardy classes only must be reckoned
upon for cold greenhouse culture. What is the use of a
greenhouse at all, they are ready to ask, if only common,
everyday flowers can be grown in it ?

Let me try to expound both its use and its charm. The
craving for flowers is universal, but in winter we want them
in our rooms rather than out of doors. The garden has a
winter beauty of its own, and we know and love it well, but
it is not the beauty of flowers. The tracery of bare boughs
against the sky, the glow of scarlet Holly berries midst polished
leaves, the quiet grey tones of Rosemary and Lavender — all
these in their various ways give a sense of restful waiting for
the coming activities of spring, and they are very dear to us.
But all the same we want flowers, for, lacking two things,
books and flowers, no home looks home-like. We can buy
them, doubtless, but " boughten " flowers do not satisfy the
craving that will not be still, and we wander out into the
garden ready to welcome the homeliest floweret which has
dared to brave the winter storms. What are we likely in
most localities to find? Christmas Roses maybe, but
besmirched; Snowdrops, not always snow-white, unless,
haply, a carpet of turf lies spread beneath them ; Laurustinus
— except in the milder South — hopeful-looking at a distance,

PLANTS SUITABLE AND UNSUITABLE 31

but sear and brown on closer view ; the earlier Crocus buds
and Primroses wantonly nipped off by saucy sparrows; the
rest, as yet, awaiting their awakening. A handful of purple-
brown Mahonia leaves, a few battered flowers from the China
Rose in some sheltered corner, some clustering Ivy or a spray
or two of variegated Box — these form the sum total of what
many a garden gay enough in summer is able to produce.
Whether we will or no — rare cases excepted — for our winter
posy we must needs go to the greenhouse. Call to mind the
most common everyday flowers that we know — Daffodils, Hya-
cinths, Wallflowers, Stocks, Crocus, Forget-me-not, Violets —
and think whether a greenhouse filled with such as these would
not be an enviable possession from Christmas onwards ?

And then, again, if we are not flower-lovers merely, but
plant-lovers — a very different cult — how keen is the dis-
appointment when, after months of patient tending of one and
another of the lovely green things upon the earth which are
to us as priceless gems, we are robbed of the full fruition of
our labours by treacheries of weather or hungry bandits in
the shape of slugs and snails ! The open ground is no safe
place to which we dare trust our rarest treasures, and a
sheltering frame becomes a necessity, and sooner or later the
frame will need expansion into larger space, where we may
group and make pictures of our plants and enjoy them to our
heart's content.

Yet it is a mistake to think that hardy flowers need be
common. The finer varieties are always worthy if we take
the pains to seek for them ; and it is their earlier flowering
under shelter, no less than their own beauty and sweetness,
that gives them their claim to the greenhouse. A greater
mistake still would be to think that even such everyday
things will bless us with a grace so early, unless we lay our
plans with intention and remember cheerless winter days to
come when summer yet holds her lap full of flowers.

32 THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE

HARDY PLANTS

Let us try to define the distinction between hardy and
half-hardy plants from the point of view of the unheated
greenhouse. Hardy plants, as we know, are those which
need no protection to enable them to withstand the frequent
changes of our climate in all parts of the United Kingdom,
but for greenhouse purposes we must gather out of these such
as can be made decorative either for foliage or for flower
during the flowerless season. Roughly speaking, this season
extends from October, when the first keen frost sweeps its
sharp scythe over the autumn garden, until March — in some
years later still — when swelling buds and the blackbird's
mellow pipe begin to tell us that spring is here. Before
Christmas, Chrysanthemums, late Tea and China Roses, a
few annuals especially prepared, like Cosmos, the crimson
spikes of Schizostylis, Carnations of the Margherita type, late
purple Asters too tardy to open out of doors, and many
another bright flower will come to our aid. With the new
year, and before if we try, we can have Roman Hyacinths,
paper, and the early Scilly White Narcissus, scarlet Van Thol
Tulips, and Christmas Roses, while the cheerful gleam of
Coronilla and Winter Jasmine and the lovely cream-white
flowers and buds of the Box-leaved Myrtle and of Laurustinus
will not leave us forlorn even at that pitiless season. Then
will follow a long procession of spring bulbs, herbaceous
perennials, and shrubs, which it is our business to coax into
flower to fill in the remainder of the weeks until the green-
house needs no longer to take the place of the outer air. So
much as this, and, indeed, much more, may be done without
any firing at all, for these are all hardy plants, but not without
some extra care when the weather is specially severe, and
maybe, on occasion, at the cost of a little drooping, not very
harmful, of the more tender flowers. Not without energy, and

PLANTS SUITABLE AND UNSUITABLE 33

perseverance and forethought besides, for the winter campaign
must be prepared for in two ways — (i) by retarding such
summer flowers as can be kept back to bloom in the latest
autumn, and (2) by bringing spring plants into flower before
their due season. Midway between these two comes another
class, of which early Rhododendrons and Azaleas are a type,
which flower naturally almost at midwinter, but seldom escape
unhurt if they remain unsheltered. A limit, indeed, can
scarcely be put upon the hardy spring flowers — Anemones,
alpine Primulas, Orobus, Saxifrages, Cyclamen vernum, and
Doronicums — to name but a few out of a host which lend
themselves with gratitude, and enjoy such gentle forcing
as the shelter of glass can give them. They come from
many lands, and often from climates much more rigorous
than our own, but where they are neither puzzled by the
wiles nor entrapped by the cruel ogre of the weather, who
entices them with smiles one day — to gobble them up on the
next.

There is but one hardy plant which for this purpose,
perhaps for its very hardiness, I, for my own part, would not
choose — the low-growing herbaceous Heath (Erica carnea).
Be the winter what it may it never loses heart of grace, but
bides its time. It may blush into perfect beauty a little
sooner or a little later, as the season lets it, but no storm
seems to harm, no stress to change it ; all hurtful creatures
pass it by, only the bees murmur over it their first happy
thanksgiving as they sip the nectar from its tiny flasks. Most
flowers we love to gather and bring indoors, but not this one.
True child of the mountains and the moor, it asks no shelter ;
let us leave it to its liberty, for, as it seems to me, it is
happier so.

34 THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE

HALF-HARDY PLANTS

It is customary to count as half-hardy many of the soft-
wooded plants which are used for summer bedding, such as
Pelargoniums, Heliotrope, Ageratum, Cupheas, and the like,
but it is a misleading term as far as the unheated greenhouse
is concerned, for in no part of the British Isles will these
survive a winter out of doors, and they might perhaps be
more accurately described as sub-tropical. It is true that
Pelargoniums of certain sorts thrive all the year round in
sheltered spots in the Isles of Scilly, but whole hedges of
them were cut down to the ground-line in a disastrous winter
some years ago when there was a most unusual visitation of
10° of frost. It is also true that they will exist under glass
in a low temperature, but it must always be above 40° Fahr.,
for they quickly damp off unless there is enough warmth to
keep them in a growing state, while to have zonal Pelar-
goniums in bloom during the winter requires not only a season
of special preparation beforehand, but a temperature equal to
summer heat ; hence it is plain that they cannot be recom-
mended for the cold greenhouse.

Ordinary greenhouse plants, again, such as Libonia
floribunda, Bouvardia, Chinese Primula, and even Persian
Cyclamen must be put out of our thoughts, though the last
two do excellently well in the windows of light warm rooms.
It must therefore be clearly understood that by " half-hardy "
in these pages it is intended to express the degree of hardi-
ness which will pass safely through an ordinary winter in the
Isle of Wight or in Devon and Cornwall, and which is able to
endure a trifle of frost for a short time in a dry, still atmo-
sphere without permanent injury. But even for half-hardy
plants like these the mere shelter of glass will not suffice,
because the advantages of climate afforded by the South Coast
are exceptional, and therefore if we decide to grow the more

PLANTS SUITABLE AND UNSUITABLE 35

tender amongst them we must make up our minds to provide
some temporary means of raising the temperature in severe
weather. Amongst the half-hardy plants that are suitable
under these conditions we may include some of the Heaths
and handsome South African Crassulas and Mesembryan-
themums, as well as Gladioli, Lachenalias, Crinums, and other
bulbs from the same regions, the Disas and some terrestrial
Orchids of Table Mountain ; Acacias, Boronias, Correas, and
other hard-wooded plants from Australia and New Zealand ;
strange Cacti and Mamillarias from the arid plains of the
southern United States ; Rhododendrons from the Himalayas,
verily a goodly company, with infinite variety from which to
choose.

It may be added that the two classes of hardy plants and
half-hardy plants overlap each other, and that some things
reckoned tender will survive when hardier ones fail, but the
reason is probably found to be some accident of individual
constitution rather than in any question of temperature.
Many of the plants here mentioned require special treatment
and are not altogether easy to succeed with, e.g.t the hard-
wooded Australasians, which are, nevertheless, well worthy of
all the pains and care that can be bestowed upon them.
Others, again, like the Cape bulbs, present no difficulty of
culture when once their management is understood, as in the
case of Nerines, while succulent plants are the most long-
suffering of all green things, living and often even thriving
under positive neglect, yet rewarding, many of them, the most
moderate understanding of their wants with largest interest of
brilliant and sometimes gorgeous flower.

It is very needful that the distinctions which I have tried
to make clear between plants suitable and unsuitable for the
unheated greenhouse should be carefully noted, for nothing
but disappointment can follow an attempt to make a simple
glass shelter do duty for a house capable of being heated up

36 THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE

to Orchid or even Pelargonium pitch. No less important is
it clearly to define our intentions to ourselves as to whether
we grow hardy plants only or whether we wish to include the
less hardy, for which a certain amount of heating power is
required, though not enough to render the term " unheated
greenhouse " a contradiction, inasmuch as it need be in most
cases merely a transient encumbrance and not a permanent
one. In either case some knowledge of plants and a hearty
desire to know more is inseparable from the true enjoyment
of this, or, indeed, any other branch of gardening. With
regard to culture, nothing teaches so much as practice, and
when the true gardening instinct exists the early stage of
helpless ignorance soon gives place to greater assurance, as we
take advantage day by day of every hint, spoken and written,
that comes in our way. Then as experience grows we begin
to make experiments on our own account, for there is no
doubt whatever that many plants may be educated and made
to adapt themselves to environments other than those that are
natural to them, and herein lies one of the many interesting
features of advanced work in a cold greenhouse. A generation
since, numbers of plants now commonly to be found in our
garden borders were grown under glass and reckoned too
tender to be trusted out of doors. The result of experiments
during many years in testing the capabilities of unheated
houses in my own garden proved to demonstration that a fair
proportion of plants will succeed admirably under good
management, and are less subject to blight and disease in a
much lower temperature than is usually supposed to be indis-
pensable to them.

The same effects, it is true, may be traced as the result of
the different modes of treatment, as may be noticed in Switzer-
land between the plants of the valley and those of the bleaker
mountain-side — the growth is not so rapid, and luxuriance is
restricted. But what is lost in these respects is made up in

PLANTS SUITABLE AND UNSUITABLE 37

added vigour of constitution and greater power of resistance
to the attacks of insect pests, and even in more abundant
flower. Therefore, in choosing plants for the unheated green-
house we may lay aside all misgivings, so long as we make no
mistakes between plants suitable and unsuitable to be grown
in it.

i

CHAPTER VI

THE ALPINE HOUSE

A GOOD example of the simplest form of the unheated green-
house is to be found in the Alpine House at Kew. It is
nothing more than a low span-roofed glass-house, 40 ft.
long by 9 ft. wide, with flat stages on each side of a
narrow gangway, and has no heating apparatus of any kind. It
is provided, however, with shading to temper sun-heat, should
it prove too powerful, as it often does, in early spring. Here,
throughout the winter and spring months, a succession of low-
growing plants and bulbs indigenous to the alpine districts of
all parts of the globe may be seen in happier circumstances
and in better flower than would be possible out of doors in
our changeful climate. A large proportion of such plants
perfect their growth rapidly during the short but strong summer
heat of their native habitats, and are almost ready to burst into
flower again when their progress is arrested, sometimes quite
early in autumn, by a thick fall of snow which tucks them up
safely for their long winter sleep. Months later, when the
snows melt and there is no more danger to fear, they have
little more to do than to open their bright eyes upon the
world new-clad in greenery. Any one who has had experience,
for example, of a Canadian spring, will understand the sudden
transformation from the winter shroud of snow to gay, green
woods and plains enamelled with flowers. Transplant the
denizens of such climates to our seagirt Britain and, so far
from being happier, they are sore bewildered and tried beyond

THE ALPINE HOUSE 39

endurance by the alternations of mildness and rigour to which
they are subjected, and we who try to cultivate rare and
beautiful species under these altered conditions too often meet
with disappointment. Under the protection of a simple glass
roof, however, the want of the snow coverlet is not so much
felt, and such plants can go on, without check from wind or
weather, to perfect their pure, stainless flowers. At the same
time, they do not give us that sense of unnatural forcing which
is inseparable from the hardy spring-flowering shrubs, like
Lilac or Wistaria, when, as is often done, they are brought on
quickly into bloom in a heated atmosphere. True alpine
plants will not stand artificial heat, and the Saxifrages, Solda-
nellas, Cyclamens, Irises, and other mountain plants shown in
the Alpine House at Kew are grown out of doors during the
summer and autumn, either in prepared beds or in cold
frames where they can be planted or plunged according to
their requirements, and are brought inside to open their
flowers. They are mainly grown in pans and pots which can
be easily returned to their growing-quarters as soon as their
beauty is past. Ice has been standing on several occasions
on a small glass tank containing Azolla filiculoides in the
Alpine House when I have seen Saxifraga burseriana major,
Corbularia monophylla, Primula megaseaefolia, &c., in flower,
and many other plants in bud without showing the least sign
of distress.

Saxifrages are typical plants for the alpine house. The
earliest of them all to open is S. burseriana major, and any one
may be proud of having, early in January, a well-established
pan of so lovely a plant in bloom, for it takes some time to
build up and some care to preserve in good condition. Few
gardens possess a superabundance of this fine variety or even
of the typical species with smaller flowers which open a little
later. Saxifrages, and especially these slow-growing, densely
tufted species, do well grown in pans from 6 in. to 8 in,

40 THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE

across, in light sharp soil freely intermingled with nodules of
stone — some of the larger pieces being only half-sunk beneath
the surface, against which the little tufts can nestle. A very
pretty specimen may be grown in such a miniature rockery.
To increase the stock, when a plant has gone out of flower, a
rosette may be snipped off here and there wherever it will be
least missed, pressing it gently into a pinch of sharp sand on
the surface of the soil. These will soon root, and each will
become the nucleus of a healthy tuft. Saxifrages of this
section will live in the same pan for a length of time, the bare
worn-out pieces being carefully cut away and fresh soil of the
nature of pulverised granite added as a surface dressing, but
much disturbance of the roots is to be avoided. Very many
species of these minute silvery rock- foils may be grown in this
way. The mossy kinds, represented by S. camposi, grow
much more quickly into good specimens. Amongst the
alpine Saxifrages may be found golden-yellow, pale primrose,
purple, and pink flowered species, as well as white. S. cotyledon
— S. pyramidalis and S. nepalensis being only fine varieties of
the same — which belongs to the encrusted section, makes a
noble pot plant in late spring, though few people, for some
reason, succeed in growing it well. To form a good specimen,
perfect rosettes of the strap-shaped leaves must be chosen for
potting singly in three-inch pots — "perfect" being said
advisedly, as an ill-shaped rosette never produces a fine spike
of bloom. These must be kept entirely free from the
numberless offsets by which, in its native home, it creeps along
the fissures of the rocks. By giving frequent and gradual
shifts into larger pots, the plants are encouraged to grow as
large as possible before the flowering stems are produced.
This may happen either in the second or third season, but if
a succession of young plants be kept up by putting in sufficient
offsets every year, some are sure to flower every spring, and
the tall pyramid of multitudes of milk-white flowers, sometimes

THE ALPINE HOUSE 41

two and even three feet in height, is extremely ornamental.
By planting several of the rosettes in a pan, thus restricting
root-room, and taking care still to remove all offsets, a dwarf
specimen may be grown, carrying several feathery white plumes
instead of the single pyramid.

No more truly alpine plant can be named than that child of
the snowdrift, Soldanella. Its cultivation is not altogether
easy, and a hint given by M. Correvon, years ago, having
proved of great value, may be passed on to others. Solda-
nellas enjoy nothing so much, under abnormal conditions, as
growing in living sphagnum, in full sunshine. Living sphagnum
must, of course, be constantly moist, and requires a thin layer
of sandy bog-soil at the bottom of the pan. The tiny plants of
Soldanella inserted over the surface of the moss send down their
roots among the cool spongy stems and thrive apace. This
method provides as good a substitute for the melting snow as
can be devised under cultivation, but they are successfully
flowered at Kew under ordinary treatment in pans of suitable
soil.

To turn to an entirely different class of plant. Amongst the
luxuries of the alpine house, at present, must be counted the
newer species, increasing in number year by year, of dwarf
bulbous Iris. Some of these are far from new, since I. persica,
nearly related to some of these more recent introductions,
is the very first plant figured in the old series of the Botanical
Magazine (A.D. 1793). But of late years, collectors in various
parts of Asia Minor have turned their attention to this beautiful
genus, and our gardens will be richer in future by their
labours. Very many of these new species are tempting items
for the Iris connoisseur. I. Heldreichi, with large grey-blue
flowers and deep violet falls, is one of the most attractive of
plants to grow for an alpine house. Not quite so striking,
perhaps, in flower, but more so as a plant, with its abundant
channelled leaves, is I. sindjarensis, a Mesopotamian species,

42 THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE

which blooms in February and March, when its tender slate-
blue flowers shading off to creamy white are both pretty and
fragrant. In the same category with these rare species are
I. Hausknechtii, I. Tawei, I. bolleana, and others. Their cul-
ture is scarcely to be taken in hand by a novice, because they
are both scarce and dear, and their requirements may not as
yet be entirely understood, but there are others, like I. alata,
I. orchioides, I. Danfordioc, I. bakeriana, &c., which are more
easily procured, and are charming additions to the alpine
house. Better known still is I. reticulata in its many de-
lightful forms.

No more fascinating branch of garden work could, in fact,
be taken up by the enthusiastic amateur than the furnishing of
an alpine house for six months of the year from November till
May, providing occupation for the summer and enjoyment for
the winter. The form of it, besides, may be varied, for another
arrangement which can be adopted for the alpine house is a
permanent rock garden under glass — the lights being so put
together that they may be entirely removed during the summer.
Evergreen ferns of low stature, some of the dwarf vacciniums
and gaultheria, and other suitable greenery might here be
grouped — intervening spaces being left with a view to the
introduction of plants in flower in their season from the outside
frames. Such an alpine house, which may be larger or
smaller according to circumstances, would make as charming a
winter garden as could well be devised.

Alpine plants are legion, and it is impossible here to do
more than indicate the lines upon which they may be used
under glass, but a list will be found of the best and most
suitable species, including many of the smaller bulbs and tubers
which have been successfully grown at Kew and elsewhere for
this purpose.

CHAPTER VII
FOLIAGE PLANTS FOR GROUPING

THE tasteful arrangement of cut flowers is a fine art in which
most people now have some training, but how few ever think
of undertaking the same kind office for growing plants.
Harmony of form and colour in the grouping of plants is no
less important, however, and when it is attained gives just
the touch of difference between mere routine and the cultured
sense of fitness.

To the amateur who finds himself in possession of an
unfurnished cold greenhouse the advice of an " old hand "
would be to think first of foliage plants. The value of
greenery for all decorative purposes is recognised in these
days as perhaps never before. This is proved by the myriads
of fine-leaved plants distributed from the great plant factories
of our day; but it is doubtful whether the modern tendency
towards regarding these as so much furniture is altogether
wholesome. The cool greenhouse may be said to cut at the
root of the evil, for in it plants are grown and not manu-
factured, and long may it be before we give up the old-
fashioned love for tending and training our favourites, until
they become living friends, associated with all the joys and
sorrows of our homes. Most people find out by bitter
experience that plants grown at high-pressure speed in
strong heat are unsuited to the conditions of a mere
glass shelter, but, nevertheless, many of the same species,
or their close allies, succeed admirably when brought up

44 THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE

under more natural treatment, and are indispensable for
pictorial grouping.

There is no question that in large conservatories detached
from the dwelling, permanent planting of certain evergreen
trees and shrubs is most advisable — a method already sug-
gested on a small scale for one form of alpine house. These
may be associated with well-planned rockwork, or fern-edged
pool, so that the main features of the house may remain
unaltered, while flowering plants can be brought in from the
working-quarters according to season. The Himalayan House
at Kew is a noble example, on a grand scale, of a cold con-
servatory of this character. For such purposes, there is
abundance of material in the way of fine-leaved shrubs ot
larger or smaller growth to suit all positions. Planting for
continuance, however, must be done with the utmost care
and good taste, or it will be disappointing. But this kind of
planting is not always possible, nor even desirable, and many
people, whether they will or no, have to content themselves
with pot plants. In any case, a small space soon becomes
overcrowded and untidy, and no plant is always at its best —
two good reasons why, under limited conditions, permanent
borders are better avoided, and every facility allowed for
frequent rearrangement. This is more particularly the case
when the ordinary small conservatory, which is seldom absent
from the rectory or country home, or even the suburban villa,
adjoins the sitting-rooms. To this end, and for other reasons
given in a former chapter, it is well also to dispense with fixed
stages, using only such simple removable contrivances for the
raising and arrangement of pots as may best lend themselves
to the natural grouping of the plants at disposal. In this
way the whole mise en scene of the conservatory can be altered
at will, but it will be understood that this is intended merely
as a practical suggestion to those who do not begrudge a little
time and trouble to give a fresh setting of ordered beauty to

LILIUM LONGIFLORUM IN POTS.

FOLIAGE PLANTS FOR GROUPING 45

the too rigid commonplace of ordinary daily life, and applies
only to the drawing-room annexe, which is always in evidence.
The refreshment to mind and eye given by the varied plant
pictures which a skilful hand is able to arrange can scarcely
be told in words, but if one thinks of the ordinary greenhouse
stage, with its serried ranks of flowering plants, flanked by
brilliantly coloured Coleus and other variegated leafage, with
here and there an Asparagus or Fern by way of foil, the
difference may very readily be imagined. It has been said
with reason that two-thirds of the available space in a green-
house might well be allotted to flowerless plants. But even
with greenery the art of harmonious grouping depends in a
great measure on the quick discrimination between concord
and contrast. Sometimes the one, sometimes the other will
give the best effect ; but it is a mistake to think that foliage
of any kind will accord with every flower. The trained eye
will detect in a moment the want of harmony, and hence the
importance of having a good stock of the most varied greenery
to choose from. It may be said in passing that one distinct
advantage of the cold house system is that a much greater
variety can be grown, as foliage plants not in use or any that
are out of flower can be transferred to outdoor quarters or
simple garden frames instead of either taking up precious room
or perishing outright for lack of suitable accommodation.

For all purposes of grouping, then, greenery being indis-
pensable, it will be well to make a note under the two heads
lately defined of hardy and half-hardy plants of some of the
most suitable for cold house culture.

The fashion of the day being to employ Palms of many
kinds for decorative purposes, it is as well, perhaps, that we
can, with confidence, place the two Fan Palms, Chamaerops
excelsa and C. humilis, on the hardy list. They are much
alike in general appearance, but the first-named is perhaps
the best. It is a Chinese species, and is often met with

46 THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE

under the alias of C. Fortune!, a fact to be noted. The
European Fan Palm (C. humilis) may be distinguished from it
by the thorny projections on the leaf-stalks, the narrower plaits
of its leaves, and by the offsets, which are thrown from the
base of the stem. It is also somewhat dwarfer in growth.
Both are good stand-by plants, doing well out of doors during
summer, but needing shelter from wind and draughts even
more than frost in winter, as the broad leaves are easily torn
and disfigured. Acanthus, so much more grown in pots as
room- and basket-plants on the Continent than with us, should
never be omitted. A. latifolius and A. spinosus are two
distinct and useful species. Aralia sieboldi, another well-
known evergreen, may be set down as indispensable. Small
plants of Muhlenbeckia, with foliage recalling the Maiden-hair
Spleenwort, is desirable for many purposes. All sprays of it
that have been used with cut flowers may be kept, and if they
have not already begun to root in the water, may be given the
benefit of a fresh jug to themselves, where they can complete
the operation at their leisure. In due time several of the
rooted sprays may be potted together and make pretty basket-
plants. Perhaps others may have found no difficulty, but
until the above method of striking cuttings of this graceful
evergreen was accidentally discovered, I never once succeeded
in rooting a plant of it by ordinary means. The jug, which
provides darkness for the rooting stems, is a point to be noted.
Such minute details are very amateurish, but like an old
cottage friend who always planted her cuttings of Lemon
plant, in firm faith, under a Gooseberry bush, " I do believe
there be sum'at in it ! "

For mixing with spring bulbs, Solomon's Seal is one of
the most charming of foliage plants. There should be a well,
prepared bed in some spare corner of the garden from which
in the autumn the best roots can be taken for potting, the
smaller tubers being replanted for the following year that they

THE STAG'S HORN FERN

FOLIAGE PLANTS FOR GROUPING 47

may have a season for recruiting. The same advice may apply
to most plants which have served their turn in the conserva-
tory. Myrtles, large and small-leaved, and Eugenia buxifolia,
provide good greenery of a different character. Eugenia will
also bear its delicious fruit abundantly in a small-sized pot,
making the greenhouse fragrant with its peculiar aromatic
scent. Small-leaved Ivies can be used in various ways, and
Senecio mikanoides, the Ivy-leaved Cape Groundsel, which
may often be seen trailing half-wild over bushes in Cornwall,
is by no means to be despised where a quick growing climber
is desired. Amongst herbaceous plants, and therefore only
of use during summer and autumn, Funkia grandiflora and
Funkia sieboldiana are very ornamental, and particularly
well adapted for grouping with various kinds of Lilies in
flower.

Nothing of course can be more valuable than a well-grown
stock of hardy evergreen Ferns, both native and foreign. Of
these the British species of Maiden-hair (Adiantum Capillus-
Veneris), of which there are several remarkable varieties ;
Polypody, especially the Welsh form • Hart's-tongue ; Poly-
stichum, with its proliferous forms ; and Asplenium Adian-
tum-nigrum (" French Fern "), may be mentioned. Of exotic
species, Woodwardia radicans, with its massive drooping
fronds, each carrying a bulblet at its point, is invaluable
for large spaces. The Ostrich-plume Fern (Struthiopteris
germanica), and Lomaria chilensis, and L. magellanica are also
large-growing, handsome, and quite hardy. Smaller species are
Lastrsea marginata and Polystichum acrostichoides. Amongst
deciduous species, the very beautiful plumose varieties of the
lady Fern (Athyrium Filix-foemina) are well worth growing,
and the fine Canadian Maiden-hair (Adiantum pedatum)
should not be overlooked. If variegated foliage be desired,
the small Euonymus radicans and Aucubas are useful, and
small tufts of the old-fashioned Ribbon grass, grown in pots,

48 THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE

go well with various kinds of white Narcissi, and make a fair
substitute for Eulalia zebrina and the variegated Carex
japonica when these are not at hand, though both are good
"grasses" for pot culture. Centaurea ragusina and Cineraria
maritima will supply silvery foliage and come in well for
lighting up a dark corner.

ASPARAGUS SPRENGERI.

CHIONODOXA (GLORY OF THE SNOW) AND IRIS
ROSENBA CHI A NA .

CHAPTER VIII

BULBS AND TUBERS.— I. HARDY SPECIES

THE question of greenery apart, the cold house gardener would
not fare badly if he were restricted to bulbs alone. For sim-
plicity of management, for exceeding charm of flower, and for
the comparatively small space required for stowage when
they are at rest, there is no class of plant that will give, year
in year out, a better return for good cultivation. With
tuberous-rooted plants added to the list, he may do well
indeed. For the earlier winter flowers in the unheated green-
house, hardy bulbs must, in fact, be our mainstay. Nothing
else will take their place, but to have them in perfection we
must take time by the forelock. Herein, be it well under-
stood, lies the main secret of success, for time, under these
conditions, must take the place of boiler and pipes. The right
moment past, we cannot hope to make it up by rushing our
bulbs in a forcing-house. Midsummer-day might, with
advantage, be taken as a signal that it is time to begin to lay
our plans for our winter campaign. Instead of this, as a rule,
the catalogues, which the bulb merchants never fail to send us,
are laid by until, perhaps, some chill November day wakes us,
all too late, to the fact that our greenhouse begins to look
ragged and forlorn.

To a certain extent, both the experienced gardener and the
novice must depend on Dutch bulbs for a bright display of
early spring flowers, and it is better to reckon upon an annual
outlay for such things as Hyacinths, Tulips, and Florist's

5o THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE

Crocus, because they cannot be grown to perfection, year after
year, in pots. Even the bi-yearly system, which answers well
for many plants, will not in all cases give the best success with
these. At the same time, with a rotation of three or four
years, we may grow our own bulbs, of most sorts, if there be
any reason for doing so.

It is safe to reckon that from twelve to fourteen weeks at
least, according to the season, will be required to bring such
quick-growing bulbs as Roman Hyacinths and dwarf Tulips
into flower. It is evident, therefore, that, if we want a breath
of the spring-tide to reach us when flowers are fewest and most
precious, the end of August will be none too soon to find the
earliest batch potted of these, and also of some other bulbs to
be named presently, followed by more at intervals of a fort-
night until the end of October. It is seldom that Dutch bulbs
can be obtained quite so early, but the order should be sent
with as little delay as may be after the receipt of the catalogue
— a plan which serves the double purpose of securing the finest
bulbs and of receiving them at the earliest moment.

The first three or four weeks will be profitably spent by the
newly potted bulbs in some retired corner of the garden under
a coverlet, 2 or 3 in. thick, of cocoa-fibre, or sifted ashes,
which answer the purpose quite as well. This is the best sub-
stitute we can give for mother earth, and provides darkness,
even temperature, and moisture for the development of the root
fibres — a matter of the first importance if we want good
flowers.

At the end of that time the pots may be removed, according
to the date when they are wanted — for it will not hurt some
of them to remain in darkness even for a week or two longer
— either to a sheltered spot still in the open where they can
be given a little protection, or, better still, to a cold frame. In
either case they must be shaded for a day or two to inure the
pushing leaves gradually to the light. In due time they will

BULBS AND TUBERS— HARDY SPECIES 51

be ready for their last move to blooming-quarters, and for early
spring flowers such as these a greenhouse with a south aspect
will naturally give the best results.

This kind of bulb-growing, of which the general outline is
here given, is very simple. A few easy rules and careful
watering must not be neglected, and then they will take care
of themselves ; for good cultivation in the bulb grounds and
the summer sunshine have done most of the work, and the
flowers already lie folded in their hearts before the bulbs reach
us. It would be needless to give such familiar directions were
it not that every day one meets with new-fledged gardeners
trying their first flight who thankfully accept the plainest
hints. As soon as the flowering is over the bulbs may be
planted in the borders, where they will give very acceptable, if
smaller, blooms for years to come ; but if they should not be
wanted for this purpose, let them not be wasted. Be sure
that there is some poor neighbour who cannot afford such
luxuries to whom they will be a veritable mine of pleasure.

Narcissus, in its many and varied groups, is perhaps the
most charming of all hardy bulbs, and in one form or other
will carry us from the dark December days to the end of
March, and longer if we wish. Paper White — one of the least
satisfactory to grow, and with a somewhat evil smell — is
generally reckoned the earliest. The equally early Scilly
White is not grown so much as it deserves, though it is familiar
enough in its cut state. It belongs to the Tazetta or bunch-
flowered group, and, though it cannot boast the pure white of
the South European N. papyraceus, it has a sweeter scent,
and the pale lemon of the cup fades by degrees to the creamy
tint of the rest of the flower. This species, said to be a native,
if I am not mistaken, of St. Michael's Mount, on the Cornish
Coast, or at any rate naturalised there, comes into bloom about
Christmas in favourable seasons. On that account it is too
tender for the gardens of the mainland, but may be had in per-

52 THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE

fection under glass during December. This and some others
of the earlier Daffodils may be potted with the first batch of
Van Thols and Roman Hyacinths, or even before. Next in
order and in quick succession will come such kinds as the pale-
tinted N. prsecox and the deeper-toned single varieties of N.
pseudo-narcissus and Double Telamonius, the great bosses
of which, familiar as they are, can never be out of favour. Then
will follow the splendid trumpets of Emperor; the golden
chalice-cups of Sir Watkin ; Ornatus, the earliest of the
Pheasant Eyes ; the lovely bicolors, Empress, Horsfieldi, and
Grandee, treading on each other's steps; and the modest
drooping heads of the ivory-white N. cernuus. Or, if we like,
we can have double flowers — Butter and Eggs, Bacon and
Eggs, and, loveliest of the group, Codlins and Cream — the
dear old-fashioned names given them by our forefathers, be-
fore even the new-born craze for Daffadowndillies set in.
These are all delightful, and can scarcely be surpassed for bold
grouping, and are cheap as they are good. The sweet-scented
Jonquils must not be forgotten, nor the lovely little double
Queen Anne's Favourite (N. capax), nor again that extremely
elegant and recent introduction of Mr. Peter Barr's, Queen of
Spain.

But we may indulge in rarer kinds if we will, and revel in
the lovely forms given to us by that patient and skilful
hybridist, the Rev. G. H. Engleheart. Or if miniature kinds
are more alluring, there are the three charming species of
Hoop-petticoat (Corbularia), yellow, citron, and white, and the
dainty N. cyclamineus with its upturned petals. Unlike the
so-called " Dutch " bulbs, Narcissus possesses the advantage
of being a good garden investment. Most kinds increase so
liberally by offsets that by good management we can grow our
own bulbs yearly and have enough and to spare. One point
in strong favour of the unheated greenhouse with regard to
these and other hardy bulbs must not be passed over without

FONTIN'S LILY OF THE VALLEY.

A WINTER FLOWERING IRIS (I. STYLOS I ALBA}.

BULBS AND TUBERS— HARDY SPECIES S3

a word. Narcissus is so essentially a hardy genus that many
of the most beautiful varieties resent heat and will not give of
their best under hard forcing, by which also the bulbs are so
much weakened that they are afterwards practically worthless.
The gentle forwarding which is all that hardy plants of this
class get under the mere shelter of glass does no harm either
to bulb or bloom, while we reap the advantage of the earlier
enjoyment of flowers, pure and untarnished by wind or
weather.

A cultural hint may be added. Bulbs have a sorry trick
of "going blind," /.*., the flowers wither away when beginning
to develop. This is mainly due to lack of water. Narcissus,
in most cases ; Hyacinths ; Tulips notably, and in fact the
greater number of bulbs are greedy of moisture during the
rising of the flower scape. After flowering, water should be
gradually withheld.

Iris represents another and most precious genus of hardy
bulbs and tubers. It has but one failing — the short-lived
flowers ; but this is in some degree and in some species atoned
for by their long succession. One of the most beautiful ot
hardy winter flowers, beginning in late November and con-
tinuing until early spring in favoured spots, is Iris stylosa, the
pencilled blue flowers of which have also a lovely white
counterpart. Though a native of Algeria, it may be safely
given a place under the present heading ; but, unfortunately,
it is not one of the most easy to flower in pots. This can be
done nevertheless, and an established group in a broad deep
pan, for it dislikes disturbance at the root, will last for years,
and is worth any amount of trouble to attain. The different
forms of I. reticulata, with their sweet scent and rich livery of
purple and gold, must find a place in every unheated green-
house, and will sometimes take us by surprise there on a
January day. It is seldom that the different varieties of
I. pumila, I. germanica, and similar species are pressed into

54 THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE

the service for early flowering under glass, yet they respond so
readily to such gentle persuasion that where they have been
tried the result has given much satisfaction. Careful cultiva-
tion in a prepared garden bed and lifting for potting in
alternate years is a good plan to adopt.

The beautiful Spanish and so-called " English " Irises,
though somewhat " leggy," are not the less useful on that
account for grouping with suitable greenery. Nor must the
tiny Iris cristata be forgotten, a perfect gem, with its delicate
pale-blue falls and feathery crests. The slugs have such an
unfailing instinct for this dainty morsel that I have found the
only safe place at flowering time to be some quiet haven under
glass. It succeeds well in a deep pan with sunken bits of
stone, or planted on a bit of permanent rockwork. A top-
dressing of some good light soil now and then helps the root-
ing stems, and the lovely little flowers lift themselves up at
intervals from the leafy points. It is not a showy plant, but
one that every lover of flowers must delight in. Another very
distinct hardy species is I. tuberosa, whose quaint green
flowers with dark velvety blotches will serve as a natural foil
to some of the more brightly coloured kinds. Iris-growing
has its deeps as well as its shallows, but we need not fear to
get beyond our depth with those named above, or to be without
some representative of this lovely tribe for several months of
the year. Other species, more delicate, range themselves
better under the half-hardy list.

In turning over a parcel of bulbs and tubers, perhaps none
look so utterly unpromising as the brown flaps and sticks of
different kinds of Anemone and the little dried-up claws of
Ranunculus, yet to both of these we are indebted for some of
the most brilliant of our spring flowers. In the very early weeks
of the year we shall find the splendid colouring of Anemone
fulgens and of the best forms of A. coronaria, single and double,
added to the lasting quality of the flowers, invaluable for the
cold greenhouse. The last gives us, as well as scarlet and

BULBS AND TUBERS— HARDY SPECIES 55

good purple, all manner of delicate middle tints. The working
up of a good strain of these most delightful Anemones from
seed and by a rigid selection is a most pleasant and interesting
task. But some smaller and less showy species must not be
overlooked. The hardy Greek Windflower (A. blanda) and
the Italian A. apennina raised from seed will give in succes-
sion quantities of their starry flowers of clearest porcelain to
deepest azure, and, though we may see them at their best,
nestling in mossy glades under the shelter of the budding
Chestnut-trees of their native woodlands, yet nothing can be
sweeter than the way they open their blue eyes on a sunny
morning upon very different surroundings in a strange land.
Another species, A. stellata, which Is rosy-purple in its primary
form, but ranges from pure white with dark stamens to cherry-
red under cultivation, also deserves a place.

Probably most people would think of trying Anemones for
an unheated greenhouse without any suggestion. It is much
more rare to find Persian Ranunculus grown in pots for the
same purpose, yet these are well worth a trial. Years ago
beds of Ranunculus were the pride and glory of many an old-
fashioned garden, and the slender claw-like tubers were
increased and preserved, year after year, with the utmost skill,
and laid by in paper bags with loving care until planting time ;
but now we should probably do better to buy our stock
yearly. In a warm greenhouse Ranunculus fails utterly in
pots, but in a cold frame there should be no difficulty, and a
September potting ought to give most acceptable flowers in
April, when we begin to want a change from Narcissus and
Hyacinths.

Of miscellaneous hardy bulbs and tubers, what a long list
might be given. Let a few be named by way of reminder.
To begin with, there are large Snowdrops of sorts which
coaxing will seldom bring into flower before their appointed
time, but which open pure and free from stain under glass ;
and Winter Aconite, not amiss upon a wintry day and almost

56 THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE

as happy in a moss-surfaced pan as in a furrow of its native
olive-yard on the Italian hills. There is the lovely Crocus
Imperati, in pencilled lilac and buff, and other delicate
winter-flowering species, beloved of many far above their
more robust Dutch brethren, which flower a little later.
Sisyrinchium grandiflorum, too, craves for shelter from the
January blast for its fragile bells, purple or white; while
Chionodoxa and Scilla, able to brave the hardest frosts, are
yet very willing to take life more easily. Cyclamen Coum and
C. vernum, too, with their allies, rosy or pure white with
marbled foliage, are ready to give us beautiful leaf forms
when the flowers are gone. Another lovely thing, too much
beloved of slugs in the open, and well worthy of shelter, is
Ornithogalum nutans, which decks itself daintily in green and
silver, while the peculiar sheen of its spikes of drooping
flowers under artificial light makes it a dinner-table decoration
quite unique in its effect.

As spring advances, there is Lily-of-the-Valley, welcome
early or late ; and English Fritillaries, chequered like some
bit of old-world chintz, or white, or palest lemon, with nodding
heads ; and exotic forms like F. aurea, not slender and fragile
like the others, but hanging its large golden flowers upon
stems only three or four inches high. The various species of
Tulip, again — which must not be confused with the garden
varieties — give us a wide range of choice, from the strikingly
fine T. Kaufmanniana to the dainty little rose-and-white
T. Clusii. These are but a few, and every one of these, and
many more that might be added to the number, can be grown
in the open border, most of them without much trouble,
whilst it is not to be denied that good cultivation in pots
entails a considerable amount of labour and care ; but it has
its reward when flowers are rare and cold damp days forbid
much lingering in the garden in search of the few that may
happen to be there.

CHAPTER IX

BULBS AND TUBERS.— II. HALF-HARDY
SPECIES

A LARGE number of bulbs are available for the unheated
greenhouse which are somewhat difficult to place, because
they are suited neither to the warm house nor to the open
garden. Many of these can resist even a few degrees of frost
on occasion, but the rapid changes of our climate are more
than they can endure. For such the greenhouse that can be
kept just above freezing-point by temporary means is admir-
ably adapted. Planting time in some cases coincides with
that of the earliest hardy bulbs, and, as they require to begin
with much the same treatment, August is generally a busy
month in the potting shed.

Lachenalias and Freesias, two well-known groups of half-
hardy bulbs, belong to this section. L. pendula flowers
naturally in November ; consequently, it ripens its bulbs first
in order, and to have its welcome spikes of bright light-
crimson in due season — July is not too soon to pot this
particular species. L. pendula is far too seldom grown, for
it is one of the most precious flowers of early winter. The
genus includes a number of most charming species and
hybrids which have been gradually coming more and more to
the front, and the varied shades of colour in the flowers ot
different species are somewhat remarkable. L. pendula is, I
believe, the only species of its peculiar shade of rose-red.
The greater number are brilliant yellow, either self-coloured

58 THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE

or touched with scarlet, and with more or less distinct purple
blotches. One species, generally called L. tricolor, but more
correctly L. luteola, has a good deal of green in the drooping
bells, while another, L. ccerulea purpurea, shows a peculiar
metallic blue on the spike of grey-white flowers, and in its best
variety is very ornamental.

The most familiar of all hybrid forms is L. Nelsoni, raised
now many years ago. It will always hold its own, but of late
years these lovely Cape Cowslips, as they are sometimes called,
have been skilfully taken in hand by Mr. F. W. Moore, the
able curator of the Glasnevin Botanical Gardens, Dublin,
and others, and have been brought to a high degree of
perfection.

Lachenalias should be grown with as little artificial heat as
possible, and nothing injures the flowering quality of these, or
in fact of most bulbs, more than to let them start into root
growth before they are potted. The routine of cultivation
may be said to begin as they go out of flower. Water should
then be given them sparingly, and after the leaves die down it
must be withheld altogether. The pots may then be laid on
their side on a warm shelf, where they will not be dripped
upon, that the bulbs may ripen, for to be kept absolutely dry
during their period of rest is essential. The least moisture at
this stage will start the ring of little white root-points into
growth, in which case, it is better to re-pot them immediately.
August is, however, the right month for re-potting all the
kinds, L. pendula excepted, when they should be shaken out of
the dry soil, sorted into three sizes and placed in their flowering
pots without delay. On this point, it is well to remember that
any disturbance of the roots after potting and growth has once
begun will seriously cripple the flowering power of the bulbs.
The larger bulbs will give the finest spikes for pots; the
second size may be " boxed " and will give useful flowers for
cutting ; the smallest, if the sort be valuable, will be worth

BULBS AND TUBERS—HALF-HARDY SPECIES 59

saving for stock, but in any case they must be separated from
the large bulbs. Three weeks under ashes will generally
suffice, and then a cold frame, open day and night, except in
drenching rain, will be the best position until the frost, which
seldom fails to come during the first week in October ; then
an additional thick mat will be needed, and the frame must be
closed in the evening, but as much air as possible should be
given during the day. It often happens that weeks of mild
weather follow that first early frost, but let the leaves get once
badly frosted, all the hopes of the year are lost as far as flowers
are concerned. This open-air treatment, as far as it can be
carried out, gives far better results with Lachenalias than
coddling, and with many other half-hardy bulbs as well.
Several species of Lachenalia may be used with good effect as
basket-plants.

Freesias may be grown on the same lines, and stand up
firmly on their wiry stems under cool treatment, instead of
flopping about in the tiresome way they often do in heat.
Never shall I forget a March day in a garden on the Aventine
at Rome where Freesias reigned supreme. Under the Palms,
bordering the shrubberies, indeed, everywhere, they reared
their pretty heads and filled the air with sweetness. With
plenty of moisture at the root, dry air above, and with as
much sun as our wintry skies will allow, they will do almost
as well under a glass shelter, only frost must not touch
them.

Somewhat in the same category come Ixias — so exquisite
when they open wide their filmy, many-coloured tissues to
the sunbeams. The taller Sparaxis pulcherrima, too, not
often seen, but very beautiful, is a gem tor the cold green-
house. For hanging-pots or baskets the sulphur-coloured
Oxalis cernua, sold now as the Bermuda Buttercup — on the
principle that it comes from Madeira and is no Buttercup — is
most ornamental. Six of the bulbs, not very large at best,

60 THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE

are quite enough for a good-sized basket, while three will be
ample for a six-inch pot. Scarcely any plant plays more
pranks with its roots than this species of Oxalis. The bulbs
must be planted a good two inches or more below the rim of
the pot to allow of earthing-up, otherwise the silvery white
coils of tubers will shoulder themselves out in the oddest way,
especially if, by chance, they are a little cramped for room.
Turn out a pot a few weeks later and not a trace of these
fleshy coils remain ; instead, if one looks closely, the rudi-
mentary bulbs may be detected clinging to some of the fibrous
roots. Later on, these will develop into shining brown
" nuts," beloved of mice, for they will travel any distance to
get them.

With the single exception of Lachenalia pendula, the half-
hardy bulbs and tubers above detailed may be expected to
bloom in March and April, and are, strictly speaking, spring-
flowering, though with all such plants grown under shelter of
glass a little experience teaches that they may be advanced
or retarded with a little change of treatment — educated, in fact,
to our wishes.

A little later, but in quick succession, to these come the
early flowering Gladioli — G. ramosus and its congeners — from
the dainty " Bride " (G. Colvillei albus), through a whole series
of varieties with pink and scarlet flowers, prettily blotched with
white. These are followed by the fine cherry-coloured spikes of
G. Saundersi, which have only one failing — that their stems are
too slender for the large flowers, and need support. Lemoine's
hybrid strain has also many varieties, with flowers of cream
and purple, which provide a useful change of colour. In
southern countries, these Gladioli are hardy, and may be left in
the open border during the winter, but for the present
purpose they are placed more appropriately on the half-hardy
list.

Alstromerias are now favourite border plants, but one of

BULBS AND TUBERS— HALF-HARDY SPECIES 61

the most beautiful of them all, A. pelegrina alba, is more
tender, requiring shelter, and is perhaps the only one suitable
for pot culture. Alstromerias do best grown from seed, for
the long thong-like roots are easily injured, and dislike removal.
For this reason it is well to sow the seeds of this species in
what is called a " Lily pot," deep and narrow in proportion —
three or four seeds at most being enough for a 7 -in. pot.
This lovely plant, with its heads of white Lily-like flowers,
freckled with palest green, will disappoint no one. It starts
early into growth, and, like Lachenalias and other half-hardy
bulbs, must not be frosted, but it is a typical plant for the
cold greenhouse, as it invariably shows signs of distress in too
great warmth by losing its leaves.

Probably most people would wish to grow Callas, but they
are somewhat more tender than might be supposed, for
the leaves are disfigured by the slightest touch of frost.
They are quite safe, however, in a low temperature, pro-
vided it does not touch 35°.

The dainty little climbing Tropseolums, not always recog-
nised as tuberous plants, should not be overlooked, as they
also add an entirely distinct feature to the greenhouse in
early spring. T. tricolorum Jarratti is the best known species,
and is often grown upon a balloon trellis. In a small un-
heated conservatory I once had a narrow piece of wired
wall between two windows which every spring was draped
with its brilliant scarlet and black flowers, and was the
admiration of all beholders. T. brachyceras, with small
butterfly- like yellow flowers, has the same habit, and trains
itself to upright wires in much the same fashion, both of
them hanging out many slender branchlets in natural
festoons. Almost any form of trellis, or even a support
of slight twigs, is better than the stiff artificial wire balloon
so beloved of some gardeners. T. azureum, with its slender
blue flowers, is only seldom met with, but it is a very gem

62 THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE

of its kind, and quite as easy to grow as the others, and
the three are so entirely distinct that it is well to grow them
all. The tubers increase quickly. Two or three new ones
will generally be found on turning out the pots, and the
original tuber will exist for years, growing larger and
larger. A cultural hint may be found of use. It is better
to shake the tubers out of the soil very soon after the
foliage and stems are dead and dry and to pot at once for
the next year's flowering. The usual plan is to put them
carefully away until the autumn, but they have a habit of
taking their owner unawares and sending out a long, straggling
wire-like shoot, difficult to disentangle and easily broken —
an injury irreparable for the season. If kept quite dry
they will not start any the sooner for being potted, but a
watchful eye must be kept upon their movements in early
autumn, so that a support of some kind may be supplied in
good time.

The greenhouse must not be left tenantless in summer,
however, and an infinity of miscellaneous kinds remain to
be mentioned, like Arthropodium paniculatum, charming both
in flower and leafage, Veltheimia viridifolia, some of the
Ornithogalums, Watsonias, and Lilies — one of the most
important groups of all, which must presently be taken into
consideration by themselves. Iris fimbriata, not much grown
and of unusual type, may here be recommended. The pale,
drooping, evergreen leaves resemble a broad-leaved grass, and
are at all times graceful, and the pale-blue crested flowers
which appear in May and June might be some delicately
tinted Orchid. Full exposure to sun and air and generous
treatment during the summer will probably overcome the
shyness to flower of which this beautiful Chinese species
is sometimes accused. Later in the year we may have
Nerines, another genus of Cape bulbs, represented by the well-
known Guernsey Lily, which, being autumn flowering, require

LACHEN ALIAS.

A RARE WHITE NERINE

BULBS AND TUBERS— HALF-HARDY SPECIES 63

rather different treatment. The essential point with these is
the summer roasting while the bulbs are at rest. A hot
shelf near the glass, where they will not get a drop of
water, is the most suitable position as soon as the leaves
have died down. At the end of August or in September, for
they are somewhat uncertain, the flower scapes begin to show,
coming before the leaves, therefore one must be prepared
with good greenery to group with them. These gorgeous
Amaryllids, crimson, scarlet, and cherry-pink, according to
their species, are amongst the most valuable of autumn
flowers for the greenhouse. The pretty little N. undulata,
with pale-pink crimped petals, though not showy, is very
attractive, and the flower-heads of all the kinds are long-
lasting. The flowering, however, depends not only on the
care taken of the bulbs in summer, but of the foliage, and
herein lies the difficulty of growing Nerines without a good
working greenhouse or frame devoted to such things as must
be kept from frost. Out of flower, they are not particularly
ornamental, but leaf growth must then be encouraged, and
they must be kept growing all through the winter.

One difference between the treatment of Nerines and most
other bulbs is that they resent re-potting. It is better to
leave them alone until by natural increase the bulbs burst
their pots. A good top-dressing in early autumn is all that
they ask for. One of my most pitiful garden experiences is
connected with Nerines, of which I happened to have a
good store of finest species. They were left during my
absence from home in a vinery at rest in which were some
broken panes of glass. The pots were first soaked with rain —
then came a severe frost and then bulbs were hard frozen—
treatment from which they never recovered, and the whole
batch was lost. This is mentioned as a warning that where
Nerines are grown — and they are worth growing — suitable
winter quarters, safe from frost, must be found for them, but

64 THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE

a window in a warm room will answer perfectly, as it also
does for the better known Scarborough Lily (Vallota purpurea).
Belladonna Lilies, on the other hand, will so rarely flower
in pots that they cannot be recommended for the smaller sort
of unheated greenhouse, but planted out in rather poor
gravelly soil, they are admirable for the narrow borders close
to the wall which are found in some conservatories and
corridors.

For such positions also — though it also flowers very well in
pots — the handsome Crinum Moorei is very suitable, especially
when associated with such plants as Funkia Sieboldi and F.
grandiflora (good both in foliage and flower) which will serve
to hide the somewhat ungainly length of stem of the Crinum.
A note should also be made of another Funkia recently
introduced — F. lancifolia tardiflora — which on account of its
late flowering should prove valuable under glass.

Kniphofias — the Red-hot Pokers of our gardens — may not
seem exactly suitable to rank as pot plants, yet there are
some species which do well and are extremely useful grown
in this way for autumn flowering. The very dwarf K.
Macowani and the more robust K. corallina are kinds in
point. For these a cold frame with sunny exposure is the most
suitable position in order that the flower scapes may attain
their full rich colour. The new taller growing species, K.
longicollis, though hardy, produces its clear yellow flowers too
late to open well out of doors, but succeeds admirably planted
out under glass, where there is space for it. It would be
worth trying, when it becomes better known, grown in a
pail or tub for smaller structures where only pot plants can be
accommodated, as it flowers naturally from late autumn
onwards into winter.

The new Anoiganthus breviflorus, which opens its umbel
of golden-yellow flowers in December, may also find a place
in the greenhouse with temporary warming power. But

FUNKIA TARDIFLO

ARTHROPODIUM CIRRATUM.

BULBS AND TUBERS— HALF-HARDY SPECIES 65

enough of these interesting and highly decorative plants have
been suggested to bear out the statement that with bulbs
and tubers alone — though the half has not been told — we
may find material enough to make the cool greenhouse a
source of interest from year's end to year's end.

CHAPTER X
LILIES

HITHERTO Lilies, apart from Amaryllids, have been left out
of consideration, because the subject is too large to be dis-
missed with a mere paragraph. It is obvious, however, that
they are almost the most important amongst flowering bulbs
for the unheated greenhouse in late spring and summer, not
only on account of their intrinsic beauty, but from their
adaptability to varied circumstances. Certain kinds, like L.
giganteum, and perhaps, on account of its' overpowering
scent except in the open air, L. auratum, are only suited for
outdoor culture. Others are admirably adapted for planting
out, where the structure is large and airy. Probably no more
lovely greenhouse picture could be devised than a well-
planned Lily garden under glass, with, perhaps, by a counter-
feit of nature, a streamlet running through it into a rocky
pool, where groups of Lilies might grow amidst and out of
fitting foliage, screened the while from all the dangers, alike
of sun and storm. But such arrangements, though far from
impossible, are scarcely within the scope of all, and perhaps
the topic most generally useful relates to Lilies suitable for
pots.

Only a few, in proportion, out of the many beautiful Lilies
now grown can be considered well adapted for this purpose.
Some, like L. szovitzianum and L. excelsum ( = L. testaceum),
are too tall, others will not submit to being cramped at the
roots, like some of the North American swamp Lilies, and

YUCCA GUATERNALENSIS IN THE TEMPERATE
HOUSE AT KEW.

LILIES 67

some require treatment or soil difficult to give, but a few
hints as to those which are most likely to succeed in a general
way may not be out of place. Amongst early kinds — i.e.,
flowering in June and July — may be reckoned the different
varieties of L. thunbergianum, also called L. elegans. This is
a dwarf-growing species, of which many varieties have been
raised. They belong to the group with erect heads of cup-
shaped flowers, of which the well-known Orange Lily (L.
croceum) of our borders is a type, and are very handsome in
their varied shades of colour from lemon and yellow to
orange-red. Some are so dwarf in habit that they actually
flower at little more than 6 in. high. Such an one is the
buff-coloured variety, L. alutaceum, which is also one of the
earliest. A nearly allied species, L. umbellatum ( = L.
davuricum), fairly common in our gardens, is rather larger
in all its parts, and the flowers are mostly of shades of dark
orange-red. Both species are frequently grown in pots, but
care should be taken to give shade in bright weather, when
they are flowering under glass, otherwise they quickly lose
their rich colouring and turn brown.

A pretty little early Lily, of a different type, is the slender-
growing L. tenuifolium, a miniature turn-cap, with bright-red
flowers, and quite at home in a pot. This is one of the Lilies
most easily raised from seed, which is fortunate, as the bulbs
are not very long-lived. »

Amongst white Lilies, the best known, yet one of the
fairest of them all, is the Madonna Lily (L. candidum), a
wilful beauty, not always kind, for, strange to say, it will not
everywhere succeed. As we all know, this Lily is much in
demand for church decoration, and huge cases containing
thousands of bulbs are sent over from Holland every autumn
for forcing purposes. These bulbs are, for the most part,
finer than any I have ever seen of English growth. They are
cultivated, presumably, in the same enriched soil of the sand

68 THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE

dunes in which other Dutch bulbs thrive so marvellously, and
are lifted at the exact moment when the leaves are almost dead
and root action arrested. A good many weeks must
necessarily elapse before they are replanted, and the point I
should like to make clear is, that in all the hundreds of these
bulbs of which, as it so happens, I have had experience, never
a trace of disease has appeared, and the flower spikes, unless
they have had too much attention in the way of heat, have
been as good as they can be. Whether this is due to the dry
nature of the sand in which they are grown or the drying-off
process — which certainly does no harm — to which they are
subjected on being lifted, I will not venture to assert, but
those who want Madonna Lilies either for pots in a cold
greenhouse or for church decoration in May cannot do better
than to procure some of these splendid bulbs from Holland.
They cannot be induced to flower so soon as Easter without
forcing, but if obtained as early as possible in the season, given
protection from frost in a cold frame during the severest
weather, and brought into an unheated greenhouse with a
south aspect in March, they ought to be ready for Whitsun-
tide, or even earlier sometimes, according to the date upon
which it falls. Five bulbs in a deep, broad pan 1 5 in. by
8 in. will make a good clump, and the noble spires prove
very acceptable several weeks earlier than they can be looked
for in the garden, whether for church or corridor, or even for
grouping in the shady angle of a courtyard or verandah, with
suitable background and undergrowth of greenery, where, as
sometimes happens, garden-room is denied. Of white Lilies
for pots one of the earliest and best is L. longiflorum. The
trumpet is not so long as in the variety known as L. Harrisi,
which is imported in large numbers from Bermuda, but it is
much more hardy and satisfactory to grow. It comes to us
from Japan and is a well-known favourite. Amongst newer and
less familiar species is L. Alexandras, also from Japan, and

LILIES GROWN IN TUB,

LILIES 69

supposed to be a hybrid between L. auratum and L. speciosum,
though this may be doubtful. The flowers, which are pure
white, are less trumpet-shaped than L. longiflorum, but more
so than in L. auratum, and the thick waxy petals last well,
while the scent is less oppressive than in L. auratum. When
better known and less costly this Lily is sure to become
popular, as it succeeds admirably under pot culture and
flowers at a height of about 18 in.

But many hues may be looked for amongst the Lilies, and
another charming species, also well suited for pots, is the new
L. rubellum, with clear pink- or rose-coloured flowers. It is
too soon, perhaps, to speak positively of its good behaviour,
but those who have had most experience have testified to its
strong constitution and to the early flowering of established
bulbs.

It is, of course, quite possible to grow in pots the lovely
orange-yellow L. Henryi, discovered and sent home from
China some years since by Dr. Henry. Its great height,
however, points rather to its suitability for planting out,
where its magnificent proportions can have full scope, but
in whatever way it is grown it has proved itself to be one of
the most valuable Lilies of recent introduction. At Kew in
the open air it has reached a height of 8 ft., and a single
stem has carried as many as thirty flowers.

I have grown two small North American Lilies sent across
to me by the kindness ot a friend, which are extremely pretty
for the unheated greenhouse. One of these, L. Grayi, is
nearly allied to L. canadense, and has the same kind of
creeping bulbs. The flower is orange-red with reflexed
spotted petals. The other, L. philadelphicum, is quite
distinct, having open-cupped flowers of even more brilliant
colouring. They are both worth growing in this way by a
Lily collector, though not very easy to keep, and both love a
peat soil.

70 THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE

Of the later flowering Lilies L. tigrinum, though one of the
oldest garden species, is still one of the most beautiful, but
the variety called Superbum is the only one well adapted for
pot culture. Its very distinct shade of deep apricot, however,
makes this variety valuable for the purpose, as well as its
intermediate season of flowering.

But our greatest standby for autumn is the Japanese
L. speciosum, in its different varieties, flowering naturally as
it does in August and September. This Lily, which used to
be known as L. lancifolium, is not always recognised under
the newer name, but it is too familiar to need description.
The three forms are represented by L. speciosum roseum,
L. speciosum rubrum, and L. Krastzeri, which is the best of
the white varieties, and may be distinguished by the pale
green stripe down the centre of each petal. A deep red
variety is known as Melpomene.

In growing these and other Lilies, it is well to know which
species naturally throw out stem-roots and which do not, as
it indicates a different system of potting. Of those which
have been mentioned, L. Alexandras, L. auratum, L. elegans,
L. Henryi, L. longiflorum, L. speciosum, and L. tigrinum all
have stem-roots, and should be potted low, leaving a space of
2 in. or 3 in. above the bulbs for a liberal top-dressing as
soon as these stem-roots begin to push. Without this, they
will wither away for lack of nourishment, and the flowers will
greatly suffer. On the contrary, L. candidum and L. Grayi
root from the base only, and should be potted with the top of
the bulbs almost on a level with the soil, only taking care to
leave a sufficient rim for proper watering — a necessity often
overlooked when potting is done by an inexperienced hand.
I have found the long pots recommended before for Alstro-
meria extremely useful for Lily culture, especially for the
stem-rooting kinds. In buying new bulbs no time should be
lost in potting them as soon as received.

LILIES 71

With home-grown bulbs, the moment to turn them out of
their pots arrives when the leaves and stems have become
quite yellow — a week too soon is better than a week too late —
as root action is suspended for an incredibly short time. My
practice has always been to separate the larger from the
smaller bulbs, re-potting all immediately, and have found
it answer much better than keeping them above ground,
even for two or three weeks, in spite of the fact that the
L. candidum bulbs sent over from Holland do not seem
to suffer.

Two-thirds of turfy loam to one of leaf-mould, some well-
decayed manure from a spent hot-bed, two or three double
handfuls of road-grit or coarse sharp sand, and a sprinkling of
soot, well mixed together, make an excellent compost which
suits most Lilies, but there are a few, like L. Grayi and L. phila-
delphicum, which prefer peat. The pots must be well drained,
and a handful of old hot-bed refuse well rammed down above
the crocks is desirable. After potting a good watering should
be given, and then a thick layer of cocoanut-fibre refuse
will keep the Lily bulbs safe until they begin to push. The
young growths must be protected from frost in the same way
as other bulbs, but the more hardily Lilies can be grown, and
the more they are in the open air (always, of course, according
to the weather) the better. It is a melancholy sight to see
such fine Lilies as L. speciosum, for example, spoilt by over-
much coddling, but they should be brought under glass as
soon as the flower-buds are formed, and watch kept lest these
should be crippled by green fly. They will require an
abundance of water during the growing season, but after
flowering this must be gradually withheld, as with other
plants of the like nature, and the pots should stand
in some sheltered place out of doors for the bulbs to
ripen.

It is easy enough to flower Lilies well for one season,

72 THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE

for they are as a general rule in good condition when
bought from trustworthy dealers, but the test of a good
Lily-grower is to keep the bulbs year after year, and
probably most of us have a record of as many failures as
successes.

CHAPTER XI

FLOWERING SHRUBS

IN considering suitable plants for the unheated greenhouse,
it is better — partly for the sake of easy reference and partly
because their cultural treatment is, in most cases, likely to
run on the same lines — to group them under specific headings.
Flowering shrubs, both hardy and half-hardy, form a most
important decorative class, whether from the standpoint of the
spacious winter garden, or of the modest conservatory for
which plants in 5 -in. to lo-in. pots are the most suitable
and convenient. The winter garden is pre-eminently fitted
for the permanent planting of some of the countless grand
shrubs and rafter plants, such as the Himalayan Rhodo-
dendrons, Acacias, Magnolias, and others, which flower
naturally during the earliest part of the year, for it is likely
enough to stand idle, as far as show purposes are concerned,
during the summer months — not for lack of material to make
it delightful, but for lack of interest at that season on the
part of the owners of it. For late autumn, a season when the
winter garden begins once more to be attractive to the house
party, such fine things as the deep-purple-flowered Desmodium
penduliflorum and Asparagus umbellatus, which is charming
in flower as well as graceful in greenery, may be cited as
examples less familiar than they might be.

The glass corridor, being often a passage-way from the
house to a billiard-room or to the gardens, might give suitable
place to such mid-season subjects as, for example, Carpenteria

74 THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE

californica, so impatient of fire heat, but so lovely with its
great heads of wax-white flowers, though this fine shrub is
even now not very well known. The finest specimen I have
ever seen was one which had to be planted, for want of a
better place at the moment, at the end of a centre-border in
a large Rose house, and there it remained till it had to be
removed for want of room. It was a wonderful sight when in
bloom, with every branch weighed down with lustrous flowers.
It is easy enough, however, to keep it within due bounds by
judicious pruning, therefore it can be safely recommended.

There are many shrubs of this almost hardy class which
refuse to flower in pots, because they require a certain amount
of undisturbed, if somewhat restricted, root-room. They are
so eminently beautiful that a wide corridor devoted to their
culture would be a grand feature. To name a few, there

' is Fremontia californica, craving shade during the hottest sun-
shine. Another is the South American Poinciana Gilliesi,
graceful in its pinnate foliage, and with golden-hued flowers
glorified by their flowing crimson stamens. There is Abutilon
vitifolium, with its grey-green, mealy looking leaves and
bunches of exquisite pale mauve (or white) recurved flowers,
so distinct in every way from other Abutilons that it would
scarcely be recognised as such, but quite intractable for pot

; culture. Buddleia Colvillei, too, said by Sir Joseph Hooker
to be one of the handsomest of Himalayan shrubs, would be
suitable for such a position. Its flowers are not rolled up
into Orange balls like the B. globosa of our gardens, but
hang in clusters of white-throated crimson Pentstemon-like
flowers from the ends of the branches. At Kew this fine plant
is found to be better fitted for the cold house than for any
other method of culture. To these may be added Veronica
hulkeana, scarcely hardy in the open, but one of the very best
of the New Zealand Veronicas, growing from 3 ft. to 4 ft. high,
and giving a mass of its pretty light mauve spikes during late

FLOWERING SHRUBS 75

April and May. Another suitable shrub is Weigela hortensis
nivea, somewhat unsatisfactory out of doors in most gardens,
but worthy to take high rank both for its pretty netted leafage
and its bouquets of delicate white flowers. For winter and
early spring flowering, Daphne indica is a useful shrub, con-
tent with a back-wall so long as it can be undisturbed at the
root and can have room to develop. Cantua buxifolia, a fine
Peruvian evergreen, bearing red pendulous flowers at the ends
of the branches in early summer, is suitable for clothing a
supporting pillar. For this purpose Cestrum (= Habro-
thamnus) elegans is also invaluable, flowering later in the
year. All these, and many others, will thrive in a light, airy
glass shelter in a good aspect with a minimum winter tern
perature kept just above freezing-point. Most of them are
hardy enough to live out of doors in favourable positions, but
the severe strain upon their endurance prevents such free-
flowering as we may fully expect under glass.

It is impossible to do more than suggest plants likely to
succeed under cool treatment, but there are enough of all kinds
to suit any and every purpose — the choice must be in accord-
ance with individual tastes and requirements. Three shrubs, to
use a comprehensive term, which may be found in flower in
many a Devonshire garden in November and December, occur
to mind as being well worth growing in less propitious
climates for the absolutely cold greenhouse. Young plants of
the Box-leafed Myrtle flower at a very small size, and though
they will grow into big bushes, are neat and compact at all
times. Beginning to flower in September, they go on con-
tinuously, often till Christmas, out of doors, until compelled
to give up by stress of weather. Their creamy-white flowers
and pearly buds are welcome indeed in a pot at that dull
season. About November the homely little Coronilla glauca,
brave and bright, begins to set about its winter work, and
though it cannot boast the beauty of the less known South

76 THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE

European species, C. Emerus, which blooms in the spring,
yet its fresh, blue-green leaves and numerous heads of pale
yellow flowers for six dull weeks are not to be despised. To
complete the trio, we have the winter-flowering Jasmine
(J. nudiflorum), so often cut off by unkind frosts in the midst
of its bloom. Grown in a lo-in. pot and fastened not too
strictly to a pillar or rafter to allow scope for its pendent
branches, it is very effective under glass. It may be used also
as a fountain plant for a corner and made to droop over a
low trellis-like contrivance, which "suits its habit better than
being treated as an upright semi-climber. It must be carefully
cut back, however, soon after flowering. Laurestinus — of
which Viburnum lucidum is the best species — is also very
welcome. For this season, too, a curiosity may be grown in
the Glastoribury Thorn (Cratsegus monogyna prsecox), for
though it might be risky to predict that it would actually open
its blossoms on Christmas Eve, according to tradition, yet it
is, in truth, a winter-flowering Hawthorn, and might very
probably keep up its reputation. Many kinds of hardy spring-
flowering shrubs, such as Hawthorns, Wistaria, Malus flori-
bunda, Prunus, and others, may be educated to flower in pots,
year after year, at a very early season. The main secrets are
to keep such things in compact form by skilful pruning and
to ripen the wood thoroughly in open-air quarters during the
summer. Any amateur can try his hand at the cultivation of
such shrubs for this purpose, for they are all worthy in their
way and not difficult to manage, but they are mainly grown
by professional gardeners who have large conservatories to
" furnish " — a term not congenial to the true lover of plants.
Prunus japonica fl. pi., however, with double white flowers, is a
very charming shrub, adapted for either a small or large green-
house, for, by frequent transplanting when young to keep it
within due limits, it may be flowered in a 6-in. pot. It is
naturally of low-growing, bushy habit, and will, after pruning,

FLOWERING SHRUBS 77

which should be done as soon as flowering is over, send up
many strong shoots from the base during the summer ; these
will flower their whole length the following season to a height
of from 2 ft. to 3 ft. Being perfectly hardy, flowering shrubs
of this latter class take up no room under glass when their
purpose is accomplished, but they must receive kindly shelter
in good time to bring them into bloom before their normal
season.

More than one kind of Cytisus is well adapted for the cold
greenhouse, besides the well-known C. racemosus. A beautiful
weeping standard may be grown by grafting the Teneriffe
broom (C. filipes) upon a laburnum stock, when the drooping
branches will be covered with pure white flowers in early
spring. This elegant species may also be grown from seed in
pyramid form by leading up the main stem and leaving the
rest of the branches to themselves.

Several of the shrubby Spiraeas are popular as pot plants,
notably the fine S. Van Houttei, which produces masses of
white flowers in early spring under glass. Amongst such
smaller-growing shrubs, Deutzia gracilis is an old favourite
which we cannot do without, one of the most graceful of
any when in flower, blooming well in a 4j-in. pot if desired,
and only asking to be cut back immediately after flowering
to do better every spring — how it would be prized did we not
know it so well ! Hybrid forms of these beautiful shrubs are
being raised by M. Lemoine of Nancy, who has taken them in
hand. One of these, called D. Kalmiseflora from a fancied
resemblance, may prove to be an acquisition, as it has flowers
of pale pink, edged with a deeper blush.

Hardy Rhododendrons of the very early flowering section
deserve the protection of glass, for in two seasons out of
three their flowers are apt to be spoilt by snow and inclement
weather. One of the first to bloom is the crimson-flowered
R. nobleanum. For planting out in large conservatories, this

78 THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE

and many still more decorative species may be grown, and in
early spring are of course amongst the most splendid of
flowering shrubs, but most kinds can also be made amenable
to pot culture. There are two or three early flowering and
smaller-growing species, however, which may be noted as
being especially valuable for the unheated greenhouse of
moderate size. The little Siberian R. dauricum opens its
lilac flowers naturally in January and February, therefore it is
thankful for protection at that uncertain season. A little
larger in growth and later to bloom is R. ciliatum, a fine
Himalayan species, with pink buds which expand into white
flowers. Between these two comes a useful hybrid form,
R. praecox, with rosy-purple flowers. R. racemosum, which
should not be overlooked, is a little-known but very charming
dwarf species from China, of quite different character, as its
pale pink flowers are produced in spikes. It is astonishing
how spreading shrubs like Rhododendrons can flower and
flourish in so small a space, but they may often be seen with
several fine trusses, quite happy in 5-in. pots. It is better,
however, to flower them one year and rest them the next by
planting out in a reserve-bed in the open air, though the very
slight amount of forcing which they receive in the cold green-
house does no harm, and if they set their buds well there is
no reason why they should not be lifted and potted every
season.

Of miscellaneous shrubs coming under no special class
there are many which might be suggested : Choisya ternata,
though found in most gardens out of doors, may yet be given
a place for early flowering under glass. The hardy Abelia
rupestris, with its pendulous mauve-white flowers imbedded
in red-brown bracts, is charming either in a large basket, or,
if planted out in a greenhouse border, will make a handsome
autumn-flowering shrub, good enough to join the choicest
company. Nerium Oleander, though more tender, is worth

HOHERIA POPULNEA.

FLOWERING SHRUBS 79

growing, especially in some of its less common single white
or pale yellow and buff forms. It flowers freely, whether in
small pots or in large tubs, but requires protection from
actual frost and abundance of water in the growing season.
For late summer, both the Brugmansias are good and not
very commonplace half-hardy plants, either for a greenhouse
border or for large pots or tubs. In fact, B. sanguinea, with
long orange-mouthed tubes, treated as a herbaceous plant,
succeeds well out of doors up to a point, but beyond that it
will not go. It springs up strongly from the stool in the
spring, and in the course of the summer the robust branchlets
cover themselves with fine buds, which just begin to open
when frost cuts them off. Under glass they are safe, but the
same plan of cutting down ruthlessly to the ground-level after
blooming, even for pot plants, may be recommended, as it
keeps them in better shape. They may, however, be pre-
ferred as standards — a form which often comes in very use-
fully for grouping purposes. The flowers of B. suaveolens
are white and trumpet-shaped, and though it is perhaps a
trifle more tender, it requires much the same cultural
treatment.

Two little-grown plants must close the list, which might
be much prolonged. How seldom do we see the Pome-
granate (Punica granata) in English gardens, except occa-
sionally on a warm wall in the southern counties, yet there is
no shrub more worthy of planting out, if there be a fitting
position for it in corridor or glass-covered verandah, or for
growing in a tub, as we may see it so frequently abroad. The
dwarf variety may be seen in Germany flowering well even in
5-in. pots. The brilliant scarlet flowers, whether single or
double, are suggestive more than any others of warmth and
sunshine, while the shining foliage, red-tinted in the young
spring shoots, is always beautiful.

The other plant of very different character is Echium

8o THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE

fastuosum, little known and less grown. It may be called a
shrub by courtesy, since it is not herbaceous. This remark-
able bushy Bugloss was figured in a coloured plate in one of
the earlier volumes of The Garden. Falling in love with its
portrait, I obtained seed and raised it, and in due time reaped
a rich reward for my pains in its magnificent heads, some 8 in.
or 9 in. long, of deep gentian -blue flowers. A very similar
species, E. callithyrsum, is equally handsome, and only a
trifle paler in hue. They come from the Canary Islands, and
are by no means hard to grow. The foliage, as in all
Echiums, is rough and shaggy, and the bush grows large and
spreading, but any one who has seen its uncommon beauty
would consider it worthy of some trouble to grow well.
Whether as a fine specimen in a lo-in. pot, or planted out in
a wide border, few things are more striking in their way than
these two species of half-hardy Bugloss for the decoration in
April and May of the unheated greenhouse.

CHAPTER XII

SOME HARD-WOODED PLANTS

IT is so generally recognised that hard-wooded plants are
more difficult to grow than those that are called, by way of
distinction, soft-wooded, of which Pelargoniums may be
taken as a type, that, with the few notable exceptions, they
have well-nigh disappeared from our greenhouses. They are
slow-growing, but, on the other hand, under proper treatment,
they are long-lasting, for one difference between the two
classes is this, that while soft-wooded plants seldom flower
well when they are old and have therefore to be constantly
renewed, the others, well grown, flower better and better in
their age than in their immature youth. Probably many old
gardeners can well remember some enormous specimens of
the yellow- flowered Heath (Erica Cavendishi), of Hederoma
tulipifera, studded all over with waxy pink and white bells,
of Aphelexis macrantha, a sort of pink everlasting from New
Holland, and others, all typical hard-wooded plants and the
pride of their grower's heart, which used to travel to town
from Staffordshire in their own comfortable van, year after
year, to win their annual prizes at the metropolitan shows.
Splendid examples they were, of which the like are seldom
seen now, and though we may not wish to own such
leviathans of their race, yet it would be a great pity to let
such fine things be forgotten.

Perhaps when we remember that Azaleas and Camellias may
both be included in the ranks of hard-wooded plants, the

F

82 THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE

cultivation of which most possessors of a greenhouse have
attempted, an effort to grow others may not appear quite so
formidable. At any rate, some of them are so well adapted
to the cold greenhouse that they are worth any pains that can
be taken with them. By way of parenthesis it may be as well
to remind the unbotanical reader that Azaleas are now ranged
under the generic name of Rhododendron, a change which is
rather puzzling until one gets used to it, for writers in garden
literature are now taking into use the more accurate term ;
but for gardening purposes the old name of Azalea is too
firmly fixed in popular speech to be easily discarded and
therefore is retained here.

To begin with, the well-known Azalea indica, which always
suggests a hot-house, is by no means greatly addicted to heat.
Large bushes in perfect health and flowering freely may be
found growing in the open air in many parts of the country ;
yet they must be set down — with most of the other plants
which come under this heading — as belonging to the half-
hardy class that are grateful for protection from actual frost,
chiefly because their fragile flowers are easily spoilt by bad
weather, and besides, for the greenhouse we want flowers
before their due season. To induce them, therefore, to open
their buds during winter or spring, as the case may be, they
must be specially treated. Azaleas set their flowers so early
in the autumn that we can safely predict the amount of flower
to be expected from them. This process once accomplished,
for which it is necessary that the wood be well ripened in the
open air during the summer, it is mainly a question of bringing
the plants into snugger quarters, earlier or later, according to
the time they will be required.

The greater number of the Azaleas we see in our green-
houses have been reared in Belgium, where the process of
grafting is carried on systematically on a large scale. I gained
a great deal of practical information a year or two ago through

SOME HARD-WOODED PLANTS 83

the courtesy of Mr. F. Sander, who spent some time in taking
me over the very interesting nursery belonging to the firm at
Bruges. The small standards when they have reached
sufficient maturity are planted out in prepared beds every
season, where they make sturdy growth and ripen their wood.
Those that are strong enough set buds on every branchlet
during the summer, and are lifted in September, with as little
disturbance of the balls of roots as possible, to be sent away
to other nurseries. The smaller plants are placed again under
glass close together upon stages and packed in with fresh soil.
Here they grow on slowly but steadily through the winter until
planting-out time returns once more. Why should we not
adopt some modification of the same system, even though we
may have but half a dozen plants of the kind to care for ? A
small space of prepared ground in suitable position is all that
is needed, and after planting, but little attention would be
required beyond watering in dry weather. I am convinced
that many small greenhouse shrubs would be much safer, and
the new roots would get more feeding and consequently, give
better results than if kept starving in pots all the year round.
At any rate all kinds of Azaleas — A. indica, A. sinensis
( = A. mollis) and the Ghent hybrids may be so treated
to their great advantage. Firm potting is essential, and not
over much pot-room, a point on which most novices make a
mistake.

It may be a little doubtful whether the same treatment
would answer with Camellias, on account of a tiresome trick
of dropping their flower-buds, which usually happens just
after they are brought under glass from their summer
quarters. Camellias are, in reality, hardier than the common
Laurel, yet they are generally reckoned as greenhouse
plants, probably for the reason that their early flowers do
not stand either frost or wet. They succeed best, un-
doubtedly, where they can be planted out under glass, for

84 THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE

which their evergreen habit peculiarly fits them, as they are
never unsightly. The single and semi- double kinds are
by far the most interesting as well as ornamental, and there is
a charming little white species (C. Sasanqua alba) which is
well worth growing.

When grown in pots, after they have made their new
leaves — not before — they should be plunged out of doors
in a semi-shaded position, which in their case is better
than full exposure to the summer sun, and they must be
carefully attended to with regard to watering. When it is
time to take them in, about October i, a gradual transition
from open air to frame, and from frame to greenhouse, will
generally overcome the dropping tendency.

It is perhaps a little difficult to define the exact limits of a
hard-wooded plant, but speaking generally, it is one with
woody stem and somewhat wiry branches, and with fine hair-
like roots, which delight in a fibrous, peaty soil mixed with
sand. Of such plants a Cape Heath, or, for that matter, our
common Heather, may be taken as a type. There are a
good many shrubby subjects which may be said to take an
intermediate place, the successful management of which may
lead up to the more difficult New Holland and Cape plants.
Amongst these easier plants to grow, which are content with
good loam instead of peat, may be mentioned the Shrubby
Mimulus (M. glutinosus) with pretty salmon-buff blossoms of
the Monkey-flower type, of which there is also a noteworthy
crimson-red variety. One of the daintiest of the Calceolarias
(C. violacea) may also for convenience sake be placed in this
section. It may be grown out of doors ; in fact, in a Dorset-
shire garden under the shelter of a wall it grew into a good
sized bush, 2 ft. at least in height, and flowered abundantly
every season until an unusually severe winter killed it.
Neither its foliage nor woody habit, nor its pale-mauve helmet-
shaped flowers, are the least suggessive of any ordinary form

— -,v- -

ERIOSTEMON MYOPOROIDES.

SOME HARD-WOODED PLANTS 85

of Calceolaria, and it is always noticeable in a greenhouse, as
it is by no means well known.

Hypericum chinense is another twiggy, low-growing shrub
which is almost hardy, and will do well either in a pot or,
better still perhaps, in a basket, which would suit its some-
what trailing habit. The large yellow flowers nearly equal in
size those of the well-known St. John's- wort (H. calycinum)
of our shrubberies, but are much more elegant from a peculiar
Catherine-wheel-like twist of petals and stamens, and it may
be reckoned a specially fine species of an interesting genus.
The more familiar Polygala dalmaisiana, the purple flowers of
which, with quaint little brushes of protruding stamens, is an
old favourite, presents no difficulties of culture, needing
nothing more than kindly pruning to keep it in shape.
Another charming Australian Pea-flower is Swainsonia gale-
gifolia alba, now well known and popular ; it has been found
to be hardy against a wall in a sheltered Cornish garden.
This may be propagated best by cuttings, as the seed which it
produces freely is apt to revert to the purple-flowered type.

All these sub-shrubs are more or less easily grown, and we
will now take an example of one that will give more trouble.
One of the most gorgeous of Australasian leguminous plants,
Clianthus puniceus, is sometimes called the Glory Pea of New
Zealand. Those who have seen some ot the cottages near
Porlock on the Somersetshire coast, with plants in full flower
climbing almost to the eaves, will not be inclined to dispute
the title. But it will not grow everywhere out of doors, and
in that case must needs be considered a greenhouse shrub.
Except for red spider, there is no special difficulty in its
culture, but for a long time a finer species still, C. Dampieri,
with black blotches on its scarlet flowers — which is not, like the
other, an evergreen, semi-climbing shrub, but a herbaceous
perennial — puzzled even experienced growers. The secret,
however, has been discovered, and a very fine specimen in a

86 THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE

large basket hanging in the Himalayan House at Kew attracts
much attention as well as admiration during its season.
Success depends upon the grafting of the delicate C. Dampieri
upon a more robust stock, either C. puniceus or, preferably,
upon the nearly allied Colutea arborescens, a perfectly hardy
shrub, more common abroad than in English gardens. The
result of this grafting is to change the intractable C. Dampieri
into a sturdy and easily managed plant, peculiarly well suited
to the unheated greenhouse, as in a cool temperature it flowers
for a length of time during the early months of the year. An
account of a most resourceful method, adopted in some Conti-
nental gardens, has been published, and deserves to be quoted.

Seed of both stock and scion are sown in February ; when
the cotyledons of the young plants are sufficiently developed
to handle, the terminal bud of the stock is removed, and that
of C. Dampieri — the scion — is inserted instead. The union
is not hard to effect under a bell-glass, but it is, necessarily, a
delicate operation. The after-culture is similar to that of other
plants of like nature. The pot or basket in which this fine
species is grown must be well drained, however, and more
than usual care is needed in watering, as it is stated that the
foliage must not be wetted. Probably, also, as in the case of
C. puniceus, the less the knife is used the better. This plan
of growing C. Dampieri is worth attention, and I give it here,
though I have not yet had an opportunity of testing it myself,
as any gardener, amateur or otherwise, might be proud of
rearing and flowering a good specimen of so grand a plant.
It is not impossible that many cases of failure may have been
due to over-kindness in the way of coddling, as the other species
does so well in the open air in a genial climate.

To come to hard-wooded plants, more strictly speaking,
some of the Heaths, such as Erica hyemalis, the later-flowering
but fine and distinct E. propendens, and others, Correa
bicolor and C. cardinalis, Bauera rubioides, Epacris miniata

SOME HARD- WOODED PLANTS 87

splendens, Hovea Celsii, Leschenaultia biloba major, Pimelia
decussata, and Tremandra verticillata are all suitable subjects,
and likely, under careful treatment, to do well in the half-hardy
house. Not long ago, in a somewhat shallow frame under a
wall, I saw a batch of strong seedling Heaths, looking like a
forest of sturdy young Spruce Firs in miniature, getting ready
for a shift into their first pots. This was in the garden of a
keen amateur, who had only taken up gardening a year or two
previously, and was a bold venture ; but in gardening there is
everything to be gained by making such experiments for
ourselves. All such plants as the above require a compost of
good fibrous peat mixed with sharp sand, and the potting must
be very firm — a point which cannot be too strongly urged —
as the hair-like fibres prefer a hard soil into which to root.
Above all the soil must never be allowed to become very dry,
yet the drainage must be good, as stagnant moisture is equally
hurtful. The winter atmosphere of the house must be dry and
buoyant, for which reason a very modest amount of warmth is
necessary in time of severe frost or, more especially, in
continued damp and still weather. Another important point
in the treatment of hard- wooded plants is the judicious cutting
back of the main shoots immediately after flowering. After
this has been done, and as soon as a new growth has fairly
started, the plants can be plunged up to the rim of the pots in
cocoa-nut fibre or ashes out of doors to rest and ripen their wood
for the next season's campaign. An annual re-potting is not
necessary, but it should be given when required, just when the
new growth has begun. Most of the plants named I have
seen doing well out of doors in very sheltered Cornish gardens,
therefore there is little fear that they will not do well in a low
winter temperature under glass. Good cold frames or deep
pits, however, as well as a conservatory, are indispensable in
most gardens where the culture of plants of delicate nature
such as these is attempted.

88 THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE

It may be useful to give the cultural details of Hovea Celsii,
a very ornamental hard-wooded plant which has long been a
favourite, though now not often met with, and of which the
clusters of rich purple-blue Pea-shaped flowers are extremely
attractive. This plant is more easily raised from seed than
from cuttings, and the seedlings begin to make strong growth
at once. As soon as they are large enough they should be
potted singly in 2j-in. pots, and given a shift into a larger
size as the roots touch the sides and require more room, care
being taken not to allow them to become pot-bound. Hovea
has naturally rather a loose habit of growth, and may be
trained either as a standard or as a bush. If the standard
form be preferred, the young plant may be allowed to grow as
a single stem to a height of 1 8 in. (or more if desired) before
the top is pinched out, when it will break into many shoots.
If a bush be wanted, free pinching must be carefully attended
to from the first to lay the foundation of a shapely plant. The
soil and treatment otherwise are just the same as that of half-
hardy hard- wooded plants in general, for which it will stand as
a good object-lesson. It is to the disadvantage of this fine
Hovea that it needs a large-sized pot before it comes to
flowering size, but it is then very ornamental. Leschenaultia
biloba major, with still more brilliant blue flowers, is another
hard-wooded plant, better known, which has not the same
drawback, as it will flower in a comparatively small pot.

To sum up the requirements of these somewhat exacting
plants : A compost of sandy fibrous peat, pots well drained,
plants firmly potted, protection given from actual frost, a cool,
dry, airy house in winter, careful cutting back after flowering,
open-air summer quarters where the pots can be plunged to
their rims, and careful watering at all seasons. Where these di-
rections can be carried out the growingof the finest hard-wooded
half-hardy plants need present no insuperable difficulty.

CHAPTER XIII

ROSES

ONE form of usefulness, and a very desirable one, for which a
cold greenhouse is well adapted, is for the growing of winter
and spring-flowering Roses. The delight of having Roses,
whether growing or for cutting, during the dull months of the
year can scarcely be overrated, and it is astonishing how much
may be done with a cold greenhouse in this direction. There
are Roses both tender and hardy, and all are not suitable for
the purpose, but, fortunately, some of the very best may be
grown under good management, and will flower well out of
season, without any forcing by artificial means other than the
protection of covering glass. No doubt it does require good
management to have pot roses in bloom in early winter, but
we all know how, in favourable seasons, some of the very best
of the Hybrid Perpetual section and Tea Roses will go on
flowering in the open till nearly Christmas, and how in the
warmer parts of our British Isles we may sometimes gather a
handful of pink or crimson China Roses from some cosy nook
in January, which are even more fresh and beautiful than
during the heat of summer. Such late Roses, however, are
apt to get sadly battered, nor can we always safely reckon
upon them. It is a happy thing, then, for the mere Rose-
lover that very many of the most beautiful Roses can be grown
on their own roots, and cuttings may be struck which will
make satisfactory plants by those who know nothing of the
intricacies of budding, grafting, and the like delicate opera-

90 THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE

tions. Catherine Mermet, for example, one of the most
charming of Tea Roses, will grow very easily from a slip taken
off with a " heel," and inserted in sandy soil under a bell-glass ;
or it will even put forth roots in a small jug of water, into
which a bit of charcoal has been dropped to keep it fresh.

The main secret is to take the slip or cutting in the right
condition. Generally speaking, the end of the branch from
which a flower has been cut, slipped off at the juncture with
the stem, will be in exactly the half-ripened state most
promising for successful rooting. It is true that own-root
Roses take some time to grow into large plants, but an
established bush is a precious possession and will go on for
years. Cuttings may be put in out of doors from June to
October — the earlier ones rooting the same season, while the
later will break away in the spring. Such rooted cuttings
make a good foundation for pot plants, and will give flowers,
if properly cared for, during six months, more or less, of the
year when the garden outside is bare.

The routine of Rose culture is a large subject, and cannot,
of course, be fully entered upon in a short chapter the chief
object of which is to be suggestive. One main point in the
preparation of pot roses for winter flowering must, however,
be in the unheated greenhouse — referred to here — the removal
of every bud which forms during August and September, when
the second flowering of both Tea Roses and hybrid Perpetuals
may be naturally looked for out of doors. During the summer
all pot Roses that have flowered in the cold greenhouse should
be plunged in suitable quarters outside, so that they may make
new growth and ripen their wood, and it is during the latter
part of this period that they must be watched in respect of
disbudding. In fact, our winter Roses will be in proportion to
the judicious care and attention bestowed upon them, in
watering, mulching, and so forth during this important resting-
time. When they are brought under shelter again, in October,

ROSES 9t

there will then be strength to produce some welcome winter
flowers, and though these may open somewhat slowly from
want of sunlight during November and December, they will
increase as the days grow longer and brighter. One way of
getting extra vigorous plants from young-rooted cuttings is to
shift them at once — either from the open ground or from
pots — into those in which they are to flower, and which may
be from 6 in. to 8 in. in size, plunging them during the
summer in a gentle hot-bed made up of leaves and stable
manure, giving at the same time a liberal top-dressing to each,
but leaving the stems and foliage in full exposure to light and
sun. After some weeks the heating material may be renewed,
if the object be to obtain strong specimen plants quickly.
The pots must not be removed too suddenly from the plunging
material, as the roots will suffer if they are not gradually
hardened off. I have tried a similar plan with other plants
besides Roses, and have found it answer extremely well.

There is no doubt that for the highest success in Rose-
growing for winter- and spring-flowering they should have a
house to themselves, however small it may be. The con-
struction of an unheated Rose house is a matter of importance,
and depends upon the mode of culture decided upon, for
Roses may be grown either entirely in pots or planted out in
borders. In the latter case the lights should be removable,
so that they may be taken off entirely during the summer —
otherwise the Roses cannot thrive. A span-roofed house with
an aspect from north to south, and resting on low walls, is the
best form to adopt, whether for Roses in pots or in beds.
When there is a border at each side it is a great temptation
to plant some of the delightful Noisettes and climbing Roses
in order to make use of the roof-space, but my own experience
and that of others agree in condemning this plan, as it makes
the centre of the house practically useless by over-shading.
It is, nevertheless, not impossible to have climbing Roses,

92 THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE

even of vigorous sorts, where there is house-room, for they can
be grown and will flower well in pots or tubs, and these can
be turned out into summer quarters when the proper time
arrives. On the whole, it is more satisfactory in a general
way to grow Roses in pots, because they can be brought into
the conservatory when in flower or placed in any other position
where they can best be appreciated ; while the Rose house
during the summer may be utilised, if need be, for the
production of tomatoes.

But a Rose-house, after all, is a luxury by no means indis-
pensable, and we may do very well without one. Yet it is
advisable to grow a good many plants — and by striking our
own cuttings we can increase our stock without any limit save
that of convenience — so that by slight variations of treatment
the different batches may come into flower in succession.
Some may be plunged in their pots ; others, again, may be
planted out in a sunny reserve-bed, and lifted and re-potted in
October, which will retard them slightly, and disbudding may
be stopped earlier or later. In this way there will be no
difficulty in having Gloire de Dijon, or Souvenir de la Mal-
maison, or Mrs. Bosanquet, and some of the China Roses in
flower from November to March, without any forcing, with
others to follow in April and May.

It is not every Rose that will do well on its own roots, but
the most suitable for growing in pots to flower in the cold
greenhouse will be found mostly amongst the China and Tea
Roses and their hybrids. The old pink Monthly Rose and the
crimson Cramoisie Superieure are never de trop, and will help
to bridge over the darkest winter days. Catherine Mermet and
her somewhat numerous progeny — the Bride, Bridesmaid, &:c.
— are all admirable (though not over vigorous) and deserve
all the pains we can take with them. Marechal Niel, of course,
cannot be omitted, and roots very easily. It is generally
grown as a climber, but this method has its disadvantages, and

ROSE NIPHETOS AS A POT PLANT.

ROSE JERSEY BEAUTY AS A POT
PLANT.

ROSES 93

unless there should be a house devoted to climbing Roses,
which is delightful when it can be done, it may be just as well
to try other ways.

Besides these already named, a few of the best Roses for
the purpose are Niphetos, La France, Mme. Lambard, Marie
van Houtte and Anna Olivier. General Jacqueminot, how-
ever, cannot be omitted, and Ulrich Brunner and Mrs. John
Laing, all Hybrid Perpetuals, should do well. These may
find a place in the most modest greenhouse, and will give
untold pleasure. I had some Roses early in April which
were lifted, as an experiment, from the cutting-bed as late
as February 12, and brought into an unheated but shel-
tered greenhouse. These, without any previous prepara-
tion, made wonderful growth and are well set with buds
already showing colour. They are planted for a special
purpose in painted margarine-tubs, which I may commend to
the notice of other gardeners as being useful and handy for
many like purposes. This little bit of experience tends to
show that fewer difficulties exist in growing pot Roses than we
might suppose. In fact, it is no use waiting until everything
we read of in books as essential is ready to hand. Now and
then, and more often indeed than is supposed, a great success
will reward very scanty opportunities, and my advice to a
novice is to make a beginning by striking as many cuttings as
possible. By so doing, we shall soon find out the best
varieties to grow and the best method of cultivating those
which we find will adapt themselves best to our own special
circumstances.

CHAPTER XIV
HARDY PERENNIALS FOR SPRING

THERE are two seasons when a few good herbaceous perennials
may be used with advantage for the decoration of the un-
heated greenhouse. In the earliest months of the year, while
winter still lingers, they are wanted, not only for the sake of
variety, but that we may forestall the tardy spring. Again,
towards the end of September, when the first frosts may come
any day to rob us of our border flowers, it is well to be able
to prove that the plant world is not peopled solely with
Chrysanthemums. In the one case, they must be gently
forwarded by all means at command ; in the other, with some
exceptions, they must receive special treatment to retard their
flowering. In a greenhouse in which absolutely no means of
heating exists, the gentle persuasion of hardy plants to earlier
flowering afforded by a glass shelter is of special value.
Another phase of the same practice, namely, the protection of
plants which flower naturally during winter, has already been
considered under the head of the Alpine House ; but a good
many perennials of larger growth than most alpines, suitable
for an ordinary greenhouse, may be mentioned here. Adonis
amurensis, a somewhat recent introduction, is one of these,
and differs but little from the better known A. vernalis, though
it is scarcely so fine a plant, but its bright yellow flowers are
amongst the earliest of the year.

Christmas Roses (Helleborus niger) can fairly claim a fore-
most place in the winter list. These are not always easy to

HARDY PERENNIALS FOR SPRING 95

manage as pot plants. One of the most successful growers I
ever knew was a farmer's wife, whose Christmas Roses were
always to be envied. These used to divide their yearly cycle
between a deep earthenware washing-pan, in which they
flowered, and a shady border under a north wall, to which they
were banished as soon as the flowers were past their best, but
not neglected, for they received a generous mulch of farmyard
manure and an occasional drenching with rain-water, not
wholly free from soapsuds, during hot and dry summer
weather. When the buds had gained some size in the late
autumn, the clump was carefully lifted without disturbing the
roots and reinstated in the brown pan, whose winter station
was on the broad windowsill of the best parlour.

Here, sheltered from wind and rain, the flowers opened,
pure and fresh, in due season. No better system than that
adopted by my old friend can be followed, though a broad,
deep garden-pan, with drainage-holes complete, may be substi-
tuted as more fitting for the greenhouse, though it is doubtful
whether it would prove an actual gain. To prepare such a
plant the root-stock of an old clump must be carefully broken
up into pieces, each with growing buds and some of the black
fibrous roots attached, from which the species derives its
name. The only right moment to do this is just when the
greening sepals show that the flowering time is over and
active root growth is setting in, and these flower-stems should
be cut away to prevent an effort to seed. After planting the
pieces, not too thickly, the pan should be plunged, preferably
in a border shaded from midsummer sun, and the surface
mulched to keep the roots moist and good. It is very possible
that there will be no flowers the first season, as Hellebores
dislike root disturbance. After the first year the plant should
be turned bodily out of the pan into the border during the
summer and replaced in autumn, which can be done with very
little meddling with the roots.

96 THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE

Astilbe japonica, popularly known as Spiraea, is a true
garden perennial, which flowers out of doors early in summer,
and is valuable from doing well in shady places, but it is so
universally grown as a greenhouse plant that this fact is
generally forgotten. A. chinensis, which is quite distinct from
the Japanese species, with which it must not be confused,
flowers rather later in the open air, but answers well under
pot culture. Its taller growth and branching, feathery flower-
spikes make it a most desirable addition to the greenhouse.
The handsome but tender foliage, as well as the pretty delicate
flowers of the various species of Epimedium also, are never
seen to better advantage than under glass, where they are
secure from rough weather.

There are a good many well-known garden plants which
may usefully be employed in the same way for the cold
greenhouse. Orobus vernus is valuable for pots early in the
year, when its clusters of blue-purple Pea-flowers are very
spring-like and welcome. Several varieties of it exist, and it
is easily raised from seed. O. variegatus, which flowers later,
may also be tried.

The large-flowered Forget-me-not (Myosotis dissitiflora) is
a gem of the first water, and may very successfully be grown
in pots or in zinc troughs about 4 in. wide as an edging for
groups of plants to hide unsightly pots. These troughs may
be made of any size and shape, and have been found extremely
useful filled with growing plants of this Forget-me-not or
of white Rock-cress (Arabis albida) in church decoration,
especially for windows, being less perishable as well as less
formal than many of the designs used for the purpose.
Shelter in early spring is peculiarly acceptable to this Forget-
me-not, as the first flowers are often injured by frost. It is a
good plan to grow some spare plants in an outside border,
that they may scatter their seeds, and to use these strong
self-sown seedlings, which answer far better than cuttings, for

BROAD-LEAVED SIBERIAN SAXIFRAGE
(MEG A SEA LIGULATA).

HARDY PERENNIALS FOR SPRING 97

potting in the autumn. In Italy the large-leaved Saxifrage
(S. crassifolia) is used as a pot plant in all sorts of positions —
on terrace-walls, on the balustrade of a sunny loggia, some-
times even in the half-shadow of an over-springing archway.
The pink clusters of flowers rise well above the thick oval
leaves, and the good effect of the old-fashioned plant thus
grown takes one by surprise. To get the ruddy flush of
leafage which they will put on in full exposure, the plants
must live out of doors, and be brought into the greenhouse
only in the depth of winter. There is a charming white
variety of this species very little known, and both should be
noted.

Some of the Doronicums are bright and sunny-looking.
The dwarf D. caucasicum responds quickly to kindly shelter,
and opens its big yellow Daisy-like flowers very early in the
year. The tall D. excelsum comes into bloom a little later.
It is apt to flag in the hot spring sunshine, and must be kept
as cool as possible.

Another favourite and good plant is our old friend Dielytra,
now called Dicentra spectabilis. It is a hardy perennial, but
in some parts of the country the succulent stems and sprays
of graceful pink flowers are often damaged by late spring
frosts.

Another very charming hardy perennial is the white form of
the Peach-leaved Bell-flower (Campanula persicifolia). To get
it to flower in early spring requires considerable forethought,
as the foundation for the next season must be laid in the
previous April, but the way to manage it is as follows : Good
side-pieces must be chosen which show no sign of sending up
flowering stems, or the plant will be in bloom before it is
wanted. These should be potted firmly in good loam, in
7 -in. pots, and plunged at once in an outside border. In the
autumn the pots must be transferred to a cold frame, like
most other plants which are being brought on gently for

G

98 THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE

early flowering, and later be removed to the greenhouse,
where the spikes of pure white flowers will be very acceptable.
There are many garden forms, single and double, of this Bell-
flower, of which the type is blue, but a very good one for the
purpose in view is that known as the large white Cambridge
variety.

The preparatory process thus sketched will be found useful
for other herbaceous plants, and may be tried with modifica-
tions for any perennial which seems in the grower's fancy to
be suitable and desirable. Heuchera sanguinea with its
spikes of carmine-red, Tiarella cordifolia, the feathery white
plumes of which are never out of place, though never so
lovely as in their native woods, the long-spurred Rocky
Mountain Columbines (Aquilegia ccerulea and A. chrysantha)
are all wild flowers of the New World, well known now in our
best gardens, but they may be pressed into the service of the
cold greenhouse should circumstances suggest their use. It
is a well-known fact that plants can be educated, so to speak,
to change their time of flowering. A species, for example,
which flowers naturally in June, by an alteration of treatment
and temperature may be induced to bloom in April. The
following season, in all probability, with the same treatment,
the flowers will appear a month earlier, until, instead of
midsummer, that particular specimen gradually becomes
accustomed to open its flowers in spring. This tendency to
change of habit is a very useful one, and should be turned
to the best advantage by the cold-house gardener.

Primroses of several different types are valuable in the
earlier months of the year, and follow each other in obliging
succession. Dean's hybrid forms of the common Primrose
(P. acaulis) make pretty groups of many shades — pure white,
lilac, and deep crimson being found amongst them, as well as
the normal Primrose colour. In arranging these in a green-
house it is well to group them in gradations of one colour,

HARDY PERENNIALS FOR SPRING 99

otherwise the variety is so great that they are apt to lose their
refinement of character, which is never the case when care is
taken in the juxtaposition of tones. The fine race of Poly-
anthus Primrose may be used in the same way, and if there
be no wild garden or bit of mossy woodland where they can
be grown as Nature would have them, it is a moot question
whether the next best way of enjoying these beautiful plants
is not in the cold greenhouse, coaxed into flower a little in
advance of their kith and kin out of doors.

Primula Sieboldi, of very different character to either of
the above, is another elegant species, especially when the best
hybrid forms are chosen, as the type unfortunately has flowers
of rather an ugly shade of rose-purple, but this has been much
improved upon by careful selection and inter-crossing. This
Primrose throws up its tall slender stems and clusters of six
to ten large flowers well above the pale green leaves, and is
very distinct. It is also better suited for pot culture than for
the garden on account of the thin fragile nature of both
flowers and leaves, which are, moreover, deciduous. The
creeping rhizomes, which are slender and not very noticeable,
are apt to be dug up and lost in the open border, and
therefore it is a good practice to divide and re-pot the plants
as soon as the leaves show signs of dying down. The pans —
for these are best for this Primrose — can be plunged in a
shady place to take care of themselves until the time arrives
in the autumn to remove them to the frame or greenhouse,
when they will need nothing more than a little top-dressing.
Auriculas, too, of the so-called alpine section, are very good,
and it is interesting to raise seedlings both of Primroses and
Auriculas, taking care in the first instance to buy seed of a
thoroughly reliable strain, and afterwards, by rigorous selection
and casting away of all doubtful and mixed colours, to work
up a first-rate stock of one's own choosing. All these arc
common, everyday plants, yet a most effective greenhouse

ioo THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE

display can be made in early winter and spring out of
materials such as these, with a few bulbs and hardy greenery
to match.

It is more interesting still to grow uncommon plants. One
such, not to wander from the Primrose, is a Javan species,
which has been known for perhaps half a century to explorers
by the name of the Royal Cowslip, but is, nevertheless,
comparatively new to cultivation, and is still rarely met with.
The climate of Java is tropical, but it has lofty mountains,
whereon, at an elevation of some 9000 ft., Primula imperialis
is found in company with Buttercups, Violets, Honeysuckle,
and other familiar English plants, choosing, however, only to
grow in moist, cool spots, under the shade of bushes or in
thickets. As far as is known, this particular species is to be
found in no other part of the world. To give some idea of
this giant of its race, it may be said that it sends up a stout
flower-stem some 3 ft. high, from a rosette of very large and
long, Primrose-like leaves. The flowers, which are borne
in whorls — in this respect resembling some other Asiatic
Primulas — are of a shade of yellow, deepening into orange,
peculiar to itself, and it is in all ways, when well grown, a fine
and striking plant. The difficulty has been to get foreign
seed to germinate, but ripe seed has now been perfected by
home-grown plants, and probably it only needs, like so many
of the Primrose family, to be sown as soon as ripe to sprout
quickly and freely. The Royal Cowslip may be given as a
type of many another rare and beautiful plant which will
adapt itself, under loving culture, to the cold greenhouse.
Nevertheless, it takes some enthusiasm, no less than pains-
taking, to enable us to get off the beaten track of everyday
garden routine and seek out for ourselves the far-off treasures
of distant lands.

SYMPHYANDRA WANNERI.

CHAPTER XV

AUTUMN PERENNIALS UNDER GLASS

IT is easy enough to have plenty of bright flowers under glass
in late autumn where an average temperature of 50° to
60° Fahr. can be maintained, but when there is no heating
apparatus or merely a portable one, plants must be chosen
warily. Chrysanthemums, no doubt, are the mainstay of all
gardeners for conservatory decoration at this season, and are
as available, being hardy perennials, for unheated as for heated
houses, though the flowers have a tendency to damp off in
chill, foggy weather. No one would wish to be without such
old but fine stand-by varieties as Mme. Desgranges and its
bright-coloured sports, Source d'Or, Mile. Lacroix, Bouquet
Fait, Cullingfordii, and others, not forgetting some of the
delightful single forms, grown naturally as free-flowering
bushes. For our special purpose, early, and mid-season
varieties are more to be recommended than late ones. It is
true that nothing else can quite take the place of chrysan-
themums in greenhouse decoration. They are so universally
grown, however, and it is so easy to get information on all
points with regard to them, that it will be more profitable to
inquire what other flowering plants are attainable from
Michaelmas to the end of the year.

Naturally, we think first of the few late-blooming perennials
which, though quite hardy, are likely out of doors to have
their flowers either crippled or wholly destroyed by early
frosts. One such, often grown in pots on this account for

102 THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE

the greenhouse, is Stokesia cyanea, a fine composite, with
blue Thistle-like flowers. There are two varieties — a fact
which has only recently been made known — and as one of
these is summer-flowering, care should be taken to get the
right sort for late work. Aster grandiflorus, the latest of the
Michaelmas Daisies, is sometimes treated in the same way, as
it seldom perfects its large blue flowers in the open border.
Senecio pulcher is a good late-blooming Groundsel, with red-
purple flowers, which may be put into the same list. It is
interesting to grow it from inch-long root-cuttings in early
autumn, like Seakale, thus securing fresh plants every year,
and the best effect is made when several plants occupy a
broad, deep pan to form a clump. The colour of the flowers,
unfortunately, is one that contrasts badly with most others,
which is a drawback. A very good low-growing plant belong-
ing to the same genus, Senecio Ksempferi, may be mentioned
here, though it is somewhat more tender. It has broad,
handsome foliage, splashed with white and a touch of pink,
and is worth growing both for its leaves and flowers. It
bears a loose cluster of large yellow Daisy-like flowers, and is
more often seen in Belgium and elsewhere on the Continent
as a window plant than with us. This is not to be confused
with Farfugium grande, with round yellow spots on its green
Coltsfoot-like leaves, which is, perhaps, a greater favourite
with English folk than it need be.

Chrysanthemum serotinum, better known amongst her-
baceous perennials as Pyrethrum uliginosum, rears its great
height and holds up its flowers high above our heads in the
autumn garden, unless the precaution is taken of heading
down the plants in early June. These tops may be put in as
cuttings and make excellent little pot plants, proving very
useful in the greenhouse during October and November.
The Winter Cherry, Physalis Franchetti, is striking and
handsome for late autumn when grown with several stems

AUTUMN PERENNIALS UNDER GLASS 103

and hung with its vivid orange-scarlet capsules. It is
much finer in every way than the old P. Alkekengi. The
first frost makes the leaves drop when the plant is out of
doors, but with the protection of glass we get foliage with the
brilliant lanterns, which is a great gain. Another hardy
Japanese perennial — Tricyrtis hirta — which is, strictly speak-
ing, a miniature Lily, with a short, creeping root-stock, makes
an admirable late cold greenhouse plant. Its pretty mauve-
white flowers, spotted with lilac or purple, are very Orchid-
like in their effect, and are borne pretty freely.

Carnations of the self-coloured Grenadin type, which are
chiefly white and scarlet of various shades, are invaluable for
autumn flowering. If the object is to ensure really good
flowers it is a good plan in the first instance to raise a batch
of seedlings from reliable seed of the best strain, which should
be allowed to flower the first season in the open ground. Many
variations will occur amongst them, and a strict selection of the
finest must be made for future stock. Any tendency to throw
up flower-stems in the spring must be kept in check, and
layers should be laid early in the season, before midsummer if
possible. When thoroughly rooted, which will be in about
six or eight weeks from the time of layering, they should be
transferred to 5-in. pots, and it must be borne in mind that
Carnations, of all plants, like very firm potting to ensure good
flowering. If all goes well flower-stems will soon begin to
appear, and a cold frame will be sufficient to bring them on
until they are ready for the greenhouse.

For hanging-baskets or pans raised to a position near the
eye, a creeping Himalayan perennial, familiarly known as the
Shamrock Pea (Parochetus communis), which flowers natur-
ally in October and November, is extremely pretty, both in
its twin Pea-flowers of pale stone-blue and its large trifoliate
leaves. It is also more satisfactory to flower under glass than
out of doors, even on the most sheltered rockery. For the

104 THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE

same purpose two Italian Bell-flowers, Campanula fragilis and
C. isophylla alba, are invaluable, the latter being the more
easy of the two to grow into a fine specimen. A little early
pinching-back of the shoots will help to retard their flowers till
late autumn, when they are very welcome. Though these are
both natives of sunny Italy, they prefer partial shade when
under glass. A fine blue variety, C. isophylla Mayi, named
after its raiser, has recently been introduced.

So far, mostly quite hardy plants have been under considera-
tion, but there are a good many half-hardy perennials which
may be used, with a little careful preparation beforehand, for
the autumn greenhouse. Two or three dwarf species — not
varieties — of Dahlia, for example, come in very well to fill up
a gap at this late season. D. gracilis, a slender-growing
Mexican plant, with bright scarlet single flowers and finely cut
leaves, is good and showy, only care must be taken to secure
the true species, and not some coarse-growing seedling
masquerading under the name. D. glabrata (syn. D. Merckii)
has smaller lilac or white flowers, but produced very freely ;
while the Black Dahlia, so-called (which is not really a Dahlia
at all, but Cosmos diversifolius), makes a good foil with its
dark brown, velvety petals. These can be raised from seed,
and answer best if they are grown in pots plunged out of
doors during the summer, and all the strength thrown into the
growth by the removal of all buds until the plants are wanted
to flower. Arctotis arborescens, a very beautiful, but rather
tender, perennial, often used for summer bedding, comes under
this class. It is somewhat bushy in habit, and likes plenty of
room, but it is well worth taking any pains to get its large
creamy-white flowers in autumn. These are tinged with pink
on the under-side of the petals, and the fine grey-green foliage
sets them off to great advantage. How true it is that no
greenery goes better with any flower than its own leaves.
Another species, A. aureola, has glowing orange flowers, which

CAMPA :ULA HYBRID FERGUSON!.

SALVIA AZUREA GRANDIFLOPA.

AUTUMN PERENNIALS UNDER GLASS 105

it produces till quite the end of the year out of doors in the
Isles of Scilly, and would probably answer as well as the larger-
growing A. arborescens. Alas ! they have one fault, they close
in dull weather.

Paris Daisies, both white and yellow, grown from spring-
struck cuttings, make delightful autumn plants when plunged
out of doors during the summer, and the points of the shoots
carefully pinched out to make them bushy. There is some-
thing so innately cheery about them that, common as they
are, they may not be left out of our year-end programme.

Several of the hardier Salvias, treated in the same way,
make fine and useful plants. They are so quick-growing, as a
rule, that after the cutting stage is passed they require several
shifts during the season, until finally they reach a Q-in. pot, in
which size they should flower well. Severe pinching is also
necessary to make them compact, but in any case they take up
more room than most plants. For a strictly cold greenhouse
it is better to be content with such species as S. Pitched (syn.
S. azurea grandiflora), S. coccinea superba, S. Hians, purple
with spotted lip, and S. patens, well known, with deep blue
flowers, of which there is also a white form, rather than the
more tender species. In a good season, however, and with the
temporary help, on occasion, of a heat radiator, S. splendens,
with its brilliant scarlet spikes, S. gesneraefolia, and S. rutilans,
but with Pineapple scented foliage, may be successfully grown,
though they need a genial temperature of at least 50° to
develop their flowers satisfactorily. The cultural treatment of
both hardier and more tender species during the summer is
identical.

The subject of retarding flowering plants by refrigeration,
which is coming so much into vogue, can hardly be passed
over without some reference here. It is now quite possible
to procure many different kinds — perennials (such as Astilbe
japonica, better known as Spiraea), bulbs, represented by

106 THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE

several species of Lily, and even hardy deciduous shrubs, like
Azalea mollis — ready prepared to flower in the autumn green-
house. These will, probably, require special care to bring
them to perfection after the severe ordeal to which they have
been subjected. But the amateur who loves his plants, and
desires to know more of the unstinted variety which the
garden of the world offers to the seeker, may do better than
to hark back to spring when so great a wealth of autumn
flower is within his reach. There is more show of reason for
helping autumn and spring to clasp hands over the sleeping
form of winter.

CHAPTER XVI

ANNUALS AND BIENNIALS

NOTHING is more dismal and ugly than a greenhouse left bare
and empty of its proper occupants. Not seldom, indeed, it
then becomes a storehouse for all sorts of garden lumber, the
untidiness of which it fails, unluckily, to hide. Yet it is not
an unlikely thing to happen that one finds one's self at some
time or other with a greenhouse on one's hands, yet for a
period too short to accomplish much in the way of plant-
growing. A year's tenancy of house and garden is, in truth,
for gardening purposes, an awkward gap to fill. It is, of
course, open to any such tenant to put the conservatory into
the hands of some neighbouring florist should there be one
within easy distance, and under some circumstances this is,
doubtless, the best way out of the difficulty. If the green-
house, however, happens to be unheated a professional
gardener will probably shake his head in despair of doing
himself any credit during the winter months, and, beyond
supplying a few evergreens in pots, may even decline altogether
to attempt any floral decoration until the spring. It is not to
be denied that there are considerable obstacles in the way, and
for the winter almost everything depends upon the time
available for preparation ; but a good deal may be done, at the
cost of a few shillings and a little time and trouble, with
annuals and biennials or certain other plants, possessing,
strictly speaking, a longer term of life, but which may be
treated as such. A few suggestive hints as to the most

lo8 THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE

suitable may be useful, not only to those who mean to depend
entirely upon such yearlings, but for others, who will find
many of them exceedingly valuable, if not indispensable,
additions to their flowering plants. Where time fails to raise
these for ourselves it is generally possible to buy strong
seedlings of ordinary sorts ready for potting, so that we need
not wholly despair of procuring decorative material of this
temporary nature, and with little outlay.

Annuals are often regarded with some contempt, but it may
be traced in most cases to failure in growing them well,
resulting mainly from the initial mistake of sowing the seed
too thickly. Seed is often minute, marvellously so when
one thinks of the germ of life and the earliest food for that
germ which is, in one way or another, packed up in it. It
does not at all follow, however, that the plant produced from
a microscopic seed should require to be looked at through a
magnifying glass when full-grown, and this we must always
take into account. A single seedling of Nemophila or Lim-
nanthes will make a grand free-flowering specimen if allowed
proper scope, when a dozen cramped into the same space
will be utterly worthless and disappointing.

Seeds, minute or otherwise, must not be sown too thickly, and
with the larger kinds, like Tropaeolum or Lupine, it is a good
plan for indoor work to put them singly into the smallest pots
and to shift them as required into larger sizes. Annuals,
again, under these circumstances must never in the earlier
stages be allowed to get pot-bound, needing constant attention
from the first, until they get their final transfer into the
flowering-pot. Hardy biennials may often, on the contrary,
be planted outside with advantage to make their growth
before being potted for the greenhouse, which is a great saving
of time and labour. These require a somewhat longer time to
bring them to the flowering stage, and are generally sown one
year to flower the next. The time of their flowering depends

MARGUERITE CARNATIONS.

ANNUALS AND BIENNIALS 109

in most cases on the time of sowing and subsequent
culture — a statement not so obvious as it may seem at
first sight, because they are sometimes contrary in their
ways, and may, if they are in sulky mood, pass over a whole
season.

A houseful of Wallflowers in midwinter, some in flower and
some coming on, would be no mean success to attain. The
full red-brown of Harbinger and the clear yellow of Belvoir
Castle, which are amongst the earliest to bloom, are at all
times beautiful, and other later well-known varieties, to be
found in every seed list, will give intermediate shades never
out of harmony with each other. Wallflowers are really
perennial in duration, though not very long-lived, but as they
flower within a few months of sowing, they are commonly
treated as annuals. For very early winter the first sowing is
best made in April, and a second may follow three weeks
later. Where there is a bit of garden ground the young plants
may be pricked out 3 in. apart in rows with not less than 6 in.
between the rows. Later on, when they begin to require
more room, every second plant may be transferred to a new
row, allowing 6 in. between each of them. Here they may
remain until October, when they can be potted in 5-in. pots
for flowering in the greenhouse. Where there is no garden,
boxes or zinc trays may be made to serve the purpose. In
either case care must be taken to keep the plants weeded and
watered in dry weather. Wallflowers are hardy things — never
more so than when grown on the scanty foot-hold of a
crumbling wall, their natural home. Cultivation in rich soil
tends to make them less hardy, and the shelter of glass, there-
fore, is very welcome in severe and especially in windy
weather, and will also hasten the flowering time. Double
German Wallflowers are very popular and handsome with
their quaint purple and Primrose tints, but they are more
tender and not so fragrant as the smaller-flowered common

no THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE

sort. They come into flower later, and the seed need not be
sown till May.

Stocks, which are mostly biennials, are neither so hardy
nor so early as Wallflowers, but they are very useful, and if
seed of the intermediate section be sown in June and treated
much in the same way as recommended for Wallflowers they
will flower quite early enough to take their place when the
Wallflowers begin to grow shabby. Some experts prefer to
grow them entirely in pots, giving them shifts into larger sizes
as soon as the roots touch the sides. All-the- Year-Round is
a very fine white variety, and there are crimson and purple
shades in the same strain. For a later display the annual Ten-
Week Stocks may be sown as early as February under glass,
and, with good cultivation, will be in fine flower long before
any of their kind out of doors. The large, sweet-scented
flowers of this section are very beautiful in the infinite variety
of their delicate tints.

Scarcely any introduction of recent years has been more
welcomed than that of the annual Margherita Carnations of
Italian origin. Sown early under glass, planted outside as
soon as the seedlings are strong enough, and allowed room
enough to develop, they will grow during the summer into
vigorous plants well set with buds in time to be potted with
other things for winter flowering. If the season be favourable
many buds will open before Christmas, and with a good strain
of seed, which is always a most important factor in the case, a
very large percentage of the plants will give fine double-
fringed flowers of refined hues. The single " rogues " are
also extremely pretty, and by no means to be despised as
decorative plants. Few people realise how well the common
white Pink, as well as its rose-coloured form, treated practic-
ally as biennials, respond to gentle forwarding under glass.
Tufts of cuttings or divisions of old plants put out in new soil
in rows in May can be lifted and potted in September. They

ANNUALS AND BIENNIALS in

may then stand out of doors with the pots plunged in ashes
until Christmas or thereabouts, and will come into flower about
nine weeks after being brought in. How welcome they are,
filling the greenhouse with sweetness on an April day, none
can tell but those who have tried them.

Sweet Peas are a great stand-by, but it is essential that they
should be sown about midsummer to come in for very early
blooming. Three seeds sown in a small pot, and transferred
with as little disturbance of the roots as possible into larger
sizes, and grown out of doors, will make beautiful specimen
plants. They may be pinched back now and then to make
them bushy, and will flower well in a lo-in. pot; but they
should be brought under shelter before the first early frosts at
the end of September or they may receive a check which will
retard their blooming. Eckford's good varieties offer abun-
dant choice of colour, and these should be kept distinct, as
mixtures are seldom desirable or effective.

Any of the hardy annuals which are recommended in the
seed lists for autumn sowing, which usually means August and
onwards, may be tried with a fair chance of success, and
should flower by relays from early spring. Mignonette will
scarcely be overlooked. The old-fashioned kind, though not
so large or handsome as Machet, Parson's White, and some of
the Covent Garden strains, is the sweetest of all. Three seeds
sown in a small pot, the strongest only to be retained, and
re-potted as required in rich soil, will give very satisfactory
results.

Tender annuals for summer and autumn blooming, such as
Astors, Tropaeolums, Mimulus, Nemesia strumosa, Salpiglossis,
Celosias, Martynia fragrans, &c., must be sown under glass in
March, April, or May, according to circumstances, and require
a good deal of care in pricking-out, potting, and in some cases
pinching-back, with as much open air as possible to prevent
their spindling. These may be so timed as to flower until

1 12 THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE

late autumn. Greenery should not be forgotten, for which the
Japanese Hop, Zea Mays, and some of the elegant annual
grasses, will answer well. The biennial Fish-bone Thistles
(Chamsepuce Casabonae and C. diacantha) are also very useful
for this purpose. Cosmos bipinnatus, with its finely cut
leafage, makes an effective foliage plant while it is young, and
a few out of a batch of seedlings might be reserved for this
purpose, but the plants intended to flower will do better if
summered out of doors. This, being one of the latest of
autumn-blooming annuals, is not very satisfactory in the
garden for our climate, but if grown under generous conditions
it is exceedingly ornamental in the greenhouse during October
and November, either in its white or light purple form.

I will transcribe a short extract from a book seldom to be
met with in the present day — Mrs. Loudon's work on annuals,
which is well illustrated with coloured plates. The hints there
given have been very useful to myself, and they form a guide
for the general culture of annuals in pots, whether autumn or
spring sown. I quote the following passage verbatim, but it
will be noticed that in the case of Rodanthe Manglesi, the
plant in question, the time of sowing is stated to be April,
Rodanthe being half-hardy, but the same cultural directions
are applicable whether the seed be sown in autumn or in
spring, i.e., whether the annuals be hardy or half-hardy.

" The seed was sown on April 5, in pots filled with three
parts peat, or rather heath-mould, and one of loam. In the
first week of May, when the plants were still in the seed-leaf,
they were pricked out singly into small 2j-in. or 3-in.
pots. In a week's time they were shifted into rather larger
pots, and this shifting was repeated six times, always into
rather larger pots, till the middle of August, when the plants
were in 9j-in. pots, and when they were first allowed to
flower. On September 14, when one of these plants was
sent to us by Captain Mangles, it was ij-ft. high about

ANNUALS AND BIENNIALS 113

4 ft. in circumference, and had a thousand expanded flowers
upon it, besides innumerable buds, which have continued
expanding ever since, and it is still (November i) a blaze of
beauty. It is watered every morning with a little warm
water, and the dead flowers are cut off as they fade. « The
great art,' says Mr. Goode, in the manuscript directions sent
us by Captain Mangles, ' is to prevent the plant from growing
upwards, and to cause it to increase and expand in breadth
instead of length.' To do this, all that is required is to watch
it well, and the moment the roots have nearly filled the pot,
to transplant it into a larger one. By constantly attending to
this, the plants will grow thick and shrubby in their character,
and while the shoots will grow strong and capable of bearing
a most profuse floration, the beauty of the plants in shape will
be greatly improved." This may be old-fashioned practice,
but nevertheless the above passage is highly suggestive, and
it proves that an annual plant may be grown into a fine
specimen, even though it may live out its life in a succession
of pots. The same routine of treatment will answer equally
well for biennials.

One or two dwarf annuals of a succulent character are well
adapted for summer flowering under glass — Portulacas, which
enjoy the extra heat and are delightfully gay in their vivid
colouring of crimson, yellow, and purple, and the free-flower-
ing Mesembryanthemum tricolor, pink and white, with a dark
eye. These should all be sown very sparingly, as they are
apt to resent transplanting, and do better if they are thinned
rather than pricked out, looking best when grown in shallow
troughs or pans.

The different varieties — orange, yellow, and white— of
Iceland Poppy (P. nudicaule) do well treated as biennials,
and, sown in autumn, make charming pot plants for early
spring,

For those who like to travel out of the common track, two

H

ii4 THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE

beautiful species of Pentstemon, not very often met with, may
be added to the biennial list. P. Cobsea is a Texan plant
which blooms naturally late in autumn and has long, shining,
deep green leaves and spikes of bell-shaped lilac or white
flowers. Being very viscid they attract insects to such a
degree out of doors that their beauty is sometimes marred by
the small victims which cannot get free from the sticky trap,
but they make very fine pot plants. P. Murrayanus is quite
distinct from the last, having glaucous leaves and bright
scarlet tubular flowers, and there are garden varieties dis-
tinguished, as Grandiflora, of different shades of rose and
violet. Both these species, which are quite different to the
well-known border Pentstemons, do better sown in early
autumn and protected during the winter either in a cold
frame or greenhouse, as they are somewhat tender, but are
well worth growing by those who do not begrudge time and
trouble.

As a garden experiment, which probably has never been
attempted, it would be interesting to prove what could be
done in the way of cold greenhouse decoration by the use of
annuals and biennials alone. To this end I will gather the
hints given above into four distinct rules :

1. Pot off singly while still in the seed-leaf.

2. Shift several times into pots a size or two larger than the
last, to encourage root- growth.

3. Use rich soil and water often with weak soot-water,
which is a good and safe stimulant.

4. Pick off all early buds until the plant is sufficiently
strong to support a luxuriant bloom, and remove all withered
flowers as they fade, to prevent the formation of seed. Some-
times it may also be desirable to pinch out the point of the
leading shoot, so that laterals may be thrown out below to
make a shapely plant.

The successful cultivation of annuals is, in fact, a fine

ANNUALS AND BIENNIALS 115

<:'* t

art, and may be summed up in the garden-lad's definition of
gardening, " A-doing of things at the right time " — a maxim
instilled into his understanding, no doubt, by a past-master
of the craft, and which applies with double force in the case
of this handsome but short-lived section of plants.

CHAPTER XVII
HARDY ORCHIDS

To include Orchids in a series of plants eligible for an
unheated greenhouse may seem, at first sight, to be out of the
question. Nevertheless, in hardy terrestrial orchids, there is
a tolerably wide field open for experiment, and for the sake
of those who find in this special class the acme of all that is
beautiful in plant life, it is well that it should not be omitted.
Terrestrial Orchids include some very fine genera, in which
many of the species are hardy, though others of the same
genus inhabit the Tropics — a well-known example being found
in Cypripedium. Besides the handsome Cape Disas — the
purple- flowered Bletia hyacinthina (China), which was long
grown in stove-heat until it was discovered to be quite hardy
enough for out-door culture — and the hardy Cypripediums —
there are great numbers of ground-Orchids found in all parts
of the Temperate Zone which may be ranged under the
popular head of Orchis. The flowers of many of these are
very fine, while others possess exceeding interest from their
mimicry of various insects, like the Bee and Fly orchises of
our own chalk downs and their fringing woodlands. A
collection of some of the best of these is well worth growing,
and quite sufficient in itself to take the shape of a very good
hobby, including both hardy and half-hardy species, though all
would need treatment differing from most ordinary plants. It
would be well, therefore, for any one taking up their culture
to make a speciality of them. To see these plants in their

CYPRIPEDIUM ACAULE.

ORCHIS LAI I FOLIA.

HARDY ORCHIDS 117

native habitats, makes one long for a closer acquaintance with
them. Never shall I forget one spring morning on the Appian
Way, when the grassy borders of the wide Roman road were
bright with patches of C. papilionacea — a painted beauty, not
to be confounded with our modest white butterfly Habenaria
— and bee-and-spider-like Ophrys of various species, and the
delight of gathering new kinds amongst them. A mental
note was registered on the spot that the next venture in cold
house experiment, when opportunity offered, might well be
on some of these quaint and lovely plants. For here I must
confess that I am about to trench on the cultural experience
of others, rather than on my own ; yet knowing, by ocular
demonstration, how much may be done in this direction, it
seems better not to leave out entirely so important a group.

It is quite possible to procure, both from foreign and
English dealers, tubers and roots of the most desirable species
of terrestrial Orchis, African and American as well as
European. The chief difficulty is to make sure of their having
been collected at the right season — a too frequent source of
failure. Most of this class will do well in deep pans, in light,
turfy loam, alternating as to quarters between a cold frame in
summer, and a greenhouse in winter from which, for the half
hardy kinds, frost is just excluded. One reason why the
interesting South European Orchises are hard to cultivate
satisfactorily in our climate out of doors seems to be the same
that often arises with bulbous Iris and other alpine plants —
growth begins too early, and they cannot stand the crippling
alternations of frost and thaw. This trouble is overcome
where such plants can be given the shelter of a cold house.

The fine Madeiran Orchis foliosa is well known, and is a
robust and very ornamental plant for the unheated greenhouse.
It grows to a height of 18 in. and upwards, and the hand-
some spikes vary in colour from a deep shade of purple to
pale rosy-lilac. Being one of the easiest to manage, and

n8 THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE

increasing year by year under good treatment, it is one of the
best upon which to try one's 'prentice hand. As an example of
quite another type, Calypso borealis, a small but very choice
bog species, may be quoted. It is scarcely 4 in. high, yet
the plants in the Alpine House at Kew attract many a
visitor who knows their rarity, and can admire beauty in
miniature. Unlike O. foliosa, and the Ophrys or insect-like
section, which are mostly found in dry, open spots, this little
North American gem delights in shade and bog-soil, like our
own marsh Orchises, and will do well in a spongy compost of
sandy peat and loam, to which some chopped sphagnum moss
would be a good addition. The same treatment will suit
Goodyera pubescens, with silver-veined leaves.

On the whole, the hardy bog-Orchids seem to be more
easily managed than those of the insectiferous section. Most
of them can be successfully grown in pots or pans in the
compost already recommended and surfaced with living
sphagnum, which keeps the soil moist and cool and is as
near an approach as can be made to that of their native
haunts.

Hardy Lady-slippers (Cypripediums), for example, would
form a grand addition to the cold Orchid-house. C. spectabile,
the pink and white Mocassin Flower of North American swamps,
is one of the most vigorous and best known of these, and
finds a place in all good English gardens provided with
suitable positions for bog plants. Once upon a time, when
crossing a long stretch of swamp in Canadian backwoods
settlements, in a rough country waggon, bumping along as
the creaking wheels rolled over the unsteady logs of a
corduroy-road, I remember seeing this lovely Cypripedium,
for the first time, growing in massive clumps with other
ravishing bog plants, and being sternly forbidden to attempt
to gather one of them at peril of sinking shoulder-deep in the
ooze, if not risking life itself. It was a hard trial at the

i

CYPRIPEDIUM PUBESCENS

HARDY ORCHIDS 119

moment for a young and wilful enthusiast. In such a spot,
Mocassin Flowers can be seen at home at their real best. But
I am not sure — since we cannot in our English gardens
emulate the wild luxuriance and tangle of the native bog,
which is picturesque, but malarial withal — whether the most
enjoyable way of growing such bog plants is not on the
lines I have here ever so slightly suggested, so seldom is
it that one sees them entirely at their ease in the bog-bed.
Two or three species of these hardy Cypripediums have yellow
and brown flowers, such as our own rare C. calceolus,
reputed intractable under cultivation ; C. parviflorum, smaller-
flowered, but elegant with its twisted petals and sepals ;
and C. pubescens, a stronger-grower than either, easier to
manage, and fairly plentiful. A scarcer North American
species, C. candidum, has a white lip, with sepals and petals of
greenish brown. There are, besides, other hardy Cypri-
pediums worth growing ; for example, the somewhat uncanny-
looking Siberian C. macranthum, with its large purple pouch ;
and the stemless red-flowered C. acaule.

Associated with these — for, though they are not Orchids,
they company together by nature — one or two species of
Sarracenia would be very fitting to cultivate, being seldom
quite satisfactory in the open garden, as the pitcher-shaped
leaves generally become torn and disfigured. S. purpurea, the
typical Huntsman's Cup, and S. flava are two of the hardiest.
This hardy section of Sarracenia would offer a field for
hybridisation quite as interesting as the tender species which
have already been taken in hand by experts with such
gratifying results, as may be seen any spring day at Kew, in
the annexe devoted to such plants.

The Disas, again, which take rank among the finest
Orchids, are pre-eminently amenable to cool treatment.
D. grandiflora, one of the glories of Table Mountain, when
it has donned its fine scarlet coat, lives with its roots in the

120 THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE

sides of the water courses which abound in that locality,
where they are never dry, while the atmosphere, even in the
hot months, is tempered by the cool mists which hang over
the plateau. Here there is often snow and hail and even
ice during June, July, and August, the South African winter
months. On the authority of Mr. James O'Brien, a well-
known expert, D. grandiflora, in an unheated house, has passed
through weeks of hard weather, stiff-frozen, in a temperature
varying from 5° to 14° of frost, not only safely, but with
better results as to flowering than others of the same species
wintered in warmer quarters. This is distinct encouragement
to try what can be done not only with Disas, but with other
Orchids found at high altitudes. Happily, experience has
already proved that one of the most charming and decorative
of all, Odontoglossum crispum, wants very little coaxing to
do extremely well, for it has been successfully grown in a
sheltered lean-to house with a north aspect which was prac-
tically unheated. In fact, this and some other kinds, now
always treated as cool-house Orchids, suffered much in the
early days of their introduction from over-much coddling.
Many times have I seen in the garden of a well-known
amateur a low damp house of this description devoted to
C. crispum and a few similar species, and admired the
robust health and clean growth of the plants, to say nothing
of the perfection of flower, which left nothing to be desired.

CHAPTER XVIII

SUCCULENT PLANTS

THERE is still another class of plants, available for the
unheated greenhouse, which presents especial advantages to
busy people, and which must not be passed by unnoticed — those
which the French call les plantes grasses, but which we term
Succulents. In the days when Masson was sending home his
ample stores of new discoveries from South Africa, and when
Prince Salm-Dyck thought it worth while to publish his
splendid monograph on the Mesembryanthemum, succulent
plants in their numberless quaint forms were in high esteem,
and, indeed, well deserved the attention they received.
Modern methods ajid impatience of any but quick results
have ousted most of these old favourites, but there has been a
strong tendency of late years to revive the ancient love for
these curious prickly things, amongst which may be found
some of extraordinary brilliance and beauty of flower. The
exhibits from the historic Chelsea nursery of new hybrid
Phyllocacti at the Royal Horticultural Society's Shows of
recent years testify to this, yet none of these can exceed
the gorgeous splendour of the old Cereus speciosissimus,
well-beloved of our forefathers. These " fat " plants, so
singularly adapted to the dry and barren regions in which
they are mostly found, are — and for an analogous reason
— well suited to any one who has a taste for cultivating
plants, but little time personally to devote to them, for
they are not impatient, like most others, of a little neglect.

122 THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE

In fact, they are much more apt to resent too much fussy
attention, especially in the matter of watering, than a little
wholesome negligence. Many business men have found
recreation and solace in making a collection of these char-
acteristic plants. A collection, however, hardly appeals to the
majority, but a selection may well be chosen by those who
have any fancy for them, for they are easily grown and easily
stowed away in winter, if, indeed, they are not in flower, while
they possess more fascination than might be supposed. I
once gave an Echinopsis Eyriesii — one of the many-ribbed
globular Cacti — to a friend, who watched, with a great deal of
interest, the slow evolution of the fluffy, button-like knobs
which one day were to develop into flowers. It happened
just at the time that a move had to be made from the old
home to a newly built house at no great distance, and, during
the flitting, the greenhouse was mainly left to chance. Days
passed by before the neglected plants came to mind, but in
the gloaming of an early summer evening some errand occa-
sioned a visit to the dismantled house. The key grated
harshly in the unused lock, echoing through the silent,
deserted rooms, yet lo ! a presence was there. A fragrance
— new and unfamiliar — pervaded the still air of the empty
house, filling every corner with mysterious incense. It was the
Cactus, which, all unconscious of neglect or oversight, had put
forth its long white trumpets after the strange, sudden manner
peculiar to its kind, and was breathing out its sweetness in all
the unearthly loveliness which white flowers will take on in
the fading twilight — a voiceless poem, and for the moment
overpowering in its simple pathos.

It is this quality of uncomplaining patience which gives to
succulent plants of all kinds a value not to be estimated for
busy people, and, it may be added, for invalids to whom the
care of a few pot plants is often a great resource and boon.
Yet it need not be supposed that there is no attraction in

i.

i

SUCCULENT PLANTS 123

their quaint forms and brilliant colours for others besides
business men and persons in feeble health. Far from it. The
flat-leaved Cactuses (Phyllocacti) before - mentioned have
flowers of exceeding beauty, and, besides, are not beset with
the cruel spines which belong to so many of their kin. The
old pink Cactus (P. phyllanthoides) is one of the most valuable
of any of this section, though, strange to say, it is not very
well known. The soft rose-pink tubular flowers are borne
in great numbers, and are much longer- lasting than many
others of the same family. The white-flowered P. crenatus
and the still finer Cereus grandiflorus are still the cynosure
of all eyes during their brief season of beauty, though the
time has long gone by since supper parties used to be
arranged in order to watch the wonderful unfolding of the
shaggy grey buds of the Night-blowing Cereus into the great
milk-white blossoms which were to fade so quickly before
the dawn of a new-born day.

To come to another group, Agaves and Aloes also fill a
very useful place, and well-grown specimens are handsome
whether in or out of bloom. Echeverias and Cotyledons,
though smaller, may be put into the same category. In the
genial climate of the Scilly Isles and in positions sheltered
from cold winds, these will all live and thrive out of doors.
To show the profusion with which the somewhat shy aloes
will bloom there under suitable conditions in the open air, a
unique and striking decoration for a large dinner-table may
be mentioned which once seen could never be forgotten, com
posed entirely of the fine clear yellow flowers, tipped with
green, of a species very much at home in the rock-garden,
arranged with suitable greenery. One reason why succulent
plants are seldom so satisfactory as they might be is because
they are kept too much under glass, whereas, as gardeners
express it, they cannot in most cases be grown too " hard."
The hottest exposure in the garden should be allotted to them,

124 THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE

where they can remain in the open air day and night during
the summer months, and this attention will generally be repaid
by annual flowering.

Of the different genera of succulent plants of moderate
height and character Mesembryanthemums may be recom-
mended as amongst the most interesting and profitable to
grow, for two special reasons — the plentifulness of their bril-
liant, many-hued flowers, and the fact that a number of the
finest species are quick-growing and may be treated practi-
cally as biennials or even as annuals. The usual practice is to
let Mesembryanthemums grow into gnarled and woody shrubs
which are ugly in themselves and never flower, until at last they
are discarded as worthless. That this need not be the case is
plainly shown by the fact that certain free- flowering species
of the type of M. bicolor used to be grown for market in
great numbers by the nurserymen of the day when succulent
plants were in vogue. It is quite true that a large proportion
of Mesembryanthemums are merely of botanical interest.
This must naturally be the case in a genus comprising some
hundreds of species. Nothing finer, however, by way of
colour can be grown for a sunny porch or greenhouse than
M. bicolor, M. micans, and M. polyanthon when their masses
of small daisy-shaped flowers of glittering orange and scarlet
and purple are open in the sunshine. Amongst those of
different character and with larger, if not more conspicuous,
flowers, M. blandum, in both varieties of rose and white, is
seldom entirely out of bloom, and is admirable for any
position where it may be wanted to trail, or for a hanging-
basket. M. aureum, an upright species with large, sparkling
orange flowers, opens with the earliest spring sunshine, even
in February. M. glaucum, one of the hardiest, with hand-
some canary-yellow blossoms from two to three inches across,
flowers at all seasons, according to treatment ; and M. spec-
tabile, with pretty glaucous leaves and fine rose-coloured

MESEMBRYANTHEMUM ROSEUM IN SOUTH DEVON.

SUCCULENT PLANTS 125

flowers is another favourite. Most of the species have the
drawback of only opening in sunshine, but there are a
few, like M. lacerum, which have not this failing. Indeed,
the different hours at which Mesembryanthemums open is
one of their most interesting peculiarities. Some expand in
the morning, some at noon-day, others at four o'clock in the
afternoon, and a few are night-flowering ; but if for any
hygrometrical reason they refuse to open at the right hour, it
is seldom that any amount of coaxing from later sunshine
tempts them out of their fit of sulks for the day. Besides
their bright flowers, moreover, Mesembryanthemums take some
of the most curious forms of leafage. Best known of these,
perhaps, is M. tigrinum, with stemless boat-shaped leaves,
furnished with wicked-looking interlacing claws, between
which the large, solitary, golden-hued flower pushes its way.
But this is only one amongst many which will repay a little
study. No plants are more easily grown from cuttings. With
such species as M. polyanthon — the copious-flowered section,
as they are called by their historian, Ha worth — small tops may
be pricked over the surface of a pot or pan in the early spring.
Every bit will root, and the young plants, without any dis-
turbance, will give a mass of colour in two or three months'
time with less trouble than any plant I know. The larger-
flowered sorts require rather more patience — but the main
points are to let the rooted cuttings have as much open air
and sunshine as possible, to harden their tissues, and to give
water with moderation and good judgment, as the softer and
more succulent species are easily ruined by over-watering, and
should be kept quite dry during the colder months. No one
who takes the trouble to understand and to grow these fine
plants well will have reason to be disappointed in them if
they choose the right sorts.

All kinds of Mammillarias and Echinocacti present features
of interest, though it sometimes lies more particularly in their

126 THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE

curious forms and in the colour and diversity of their prickly
spines than in their flowers. The pretty little Texan M.
lasiacantha is remarkable for the silvery, feather-like tufts
which take the place of the sharp spines so characteristic of
these singular Cacti.

In summering succulent plants in pots of all kinds out of
doors, it is well to raise them well above the ground level, out
of the way of slugs and snails, which are exceedingly fond of
browsing upon their juicy stems and leaves, causing much
disfigurement which cannot afterwards be remedied. A plat-
form of some kind, however temporary, with a hard surface,
as of slates, for the pots to stand on, is very much to be recom-
mended. Mesembryanthemums more particularly fill their
pots with roots very quickly, and should never be allowed to
strike through the drainage-holes into the soil. Even on a
hard standing-place the pots should be moved pretty often, as
it tends to check over-luxuriance of growth, which not only
makes them tender but hinders abundant flowering. A very
sharp, gritty soil suits most succulent plants, though it is not
unusual to find that, in fear of feeding this class of plant too
much, growers run into the other extreme of starving them.

A large proportion of Cacti and plants of like nature are
tolerably hardy. As to that, one must be guided in the
choice of kinds suitable for an unheated greenhouse by a
knowledge of their native habitats. Most plants from Cape
Colony are subjected at times to somewhat severe frost,
especially at high altitudes, and in Colorado and elsewhere in
the New World where Cacti abound, they are often under
snow for weeks together. What they cannot stand, however,
is superabundance of damp in winter, either in soil or atmos-
phere, and drip is fatal, especially when followed by severe
frost. Dry cold is not particularly injurious, but these very
accommodating plants may be placed almost anywhere for
safety in severe weather — in a bay-window or on a vacant

SUCCULENT PLANTS 1*7

shelf, or even, under great stress of circumstances, in a
cupboard, so that they cannot be said to be very exacting in
their necessities.

It is seldom that any attempt is made to group plants of
this somewhat stiff character, but in a house with removable
lights, such as has been elsewhere suggested, a very charming
rock-garden might be made with succulent plants alone,
especially if it were lofty enough to include some of the
hardier Dracaenas, like D. australis and D. indivisa, and such
graceful subjects as Furcraeas, though this would be on an
ambitious scale and out of ordinary reach. Such a house
would be more interesting and ornamental than the usual
monotonous rows of Cacti in pots; and more than one
amateur has already adopted the plan with success. Of all
plants, those of a succulent nature should be grown by
themselves under the conditions which suit them, because
those conditions are usually detrimental to other classes ot
vegetation. Given complete dryness in winter when the
temperature is low, and as much sun and air as possible for
the rest of the year, with sufficient moisture during the
growing season, their wants are few compared to the amount
of interest and pleasure they will bestow upon any grower
who cares to study the immense diversity in their forms and
to encourage them to develop the singular beauty of their
flowers. « v

CHAPTER XIX

THE POTTING-SHED. SUMMER QUARTERS

SOME sort of potting-shed is essential to the gardener's
comfort, with a bench of suitable height at which he can work
and wide enough to hold his pots, his heap of potting-soil, and
his necessary tools.

For pot plants, it is usual to mix a compost according to
their different requirements, for which the ordinary garden soil
may be the foundation, though it is seldom satisfactory without
additions. The very best preparation that can be made for
potting-soil is to form a little stack by saving parings and odd
pieces of turf wherever it can be procured — if from an old
pasture so much the better — and turning the slabs grass-
downwards to decay. In process of time this will become
the basis of excellent soil for all potting purposes ; and should
be used in many cases chopped into small pieces or even
pulled apart by the hands. A mistake which is made by most
novices is to sift their potting-soil, thereby taking from it the
best part of its nutriment. It is necessary, sometimes, in
delicate seed-sowing to use sifted soil, but otherwise it is
scarcely ever of advantage. Besides this turfy loam from the
stack, we should be provided with some good sound peat,
which is absolutely needful for certain classes of plants. This
can be procured in large or small quantities through any local
nurseryman. All leaves should be collected every autumn
and carefully laid up in a heap to decay, as leaf-mould is a
most important factor in lightening and enriching the soil on

THE POTTING-SIIED 129

the potting-bench. Lastly there should be a supply of sharp
sand, and here a few words may be needed as to its different
qualities. The beginner invariably thinks that any kind of
sand will answer, but this is far from being the case. Silver-
sand is generally recommended, and answers fairly well, but for
the most part it is too fine, nor is it always easy to obtain. If
it be possible, therefore, to procure locally a coarser quality,
more of the character of finely crushed granite or quartz, it is
very much to be preferred. The coarse grit used by builders
will generally do equally well for potting purposes, but builders
do not always trouble themselves to get the best for their own
use. Sea-sand, thoroughly washed from salt, may also be used
where it can be easily obtained. But the fine sand of the
green-sandstone formation, or indeed any of soft earthy
texture, is positively injurious to pot plants, clogging the soil
instead of making it free and open. In some districts,
especially where flints abound, road-grit is the very best that
can be procured for the purpose. The use of sand, be it
remembered, is merely mechanical and not nutritive j never-
theless it is indispensable, as it assists drainage and keeps the
soil permeable and sweet. A bag of charcoal is another
addition to the potting-shed which should not be omitted. It
is most useful as drainage, being much lighter than the pot-
sheards in common use, while at the same time, it supplies a
fund of nourishment to the growing roots. Pounded very
small, it may be mixed with potting-soil to the great benefit of
most plants, including Ferns, and especially for such as do not
require re-potting every year. Where bulbs are grown in water,
as they not infrequently are, a piece of charcoal dropped into
it keeps the water fresh and pure. It is also a help to those
cuttings — and there are many such — which it is convenient to
root in water. With regard to drainage, an inch or more of
broken sheards should be placed over the hole at the bottom
of every pot — a single piece not being sufficient, as is too often

130 THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE

supposed — and this may with advantage be supplemented by
a layer of dead leaves or moss, which prevents the rubble from
becoming choked. In potting, the soil should be made very
firm, and a wooden rammer, which may be either round or flat,
is a very useful tool to keep at hand, though the " potter's
thumb " is an implement no more to be dispensed with in
gardening than in the moulding of pottery. Loose potting is
the mark of an inexperienced hand, and very few plants
succeed under such a system — for one reason because water
runs through the loose soil too quickly, draining away the
nutritive particles, while insufficient moisture is left behind to
sustain the roots. Besides this, however, the fibres evidently
like to feel the resistance of the firm earth as they push their
way into it.

Not many tools are necessary. Besides the rammer afore-
said, we must be provided with a strong, sharp knife for
cuttings, a budding-knife and a pair of scissors, but one tool
may be suggested which is not often used by gardeners. This
is the smallest size of mason's trowel, with the sharp point
rounded off, which will be found much more handy than the
ordinary scoop-trowel for the work of potting. A skein of
Raffia should also have its appointed hook in the potting-shed,
to be ready for all tying purposes. A few bundles of wooden
labels of different sizes should be at hand, as well as a pot of
white paint, for a dash of this on the broad end of the label,
wiped off with a bit of rag until the merest film remains, is the
best preparation for legible writing.

SUMMER QUARTERS

The mention of summer quarters occurs very frequently in
the preceding pages, and a properly arranged position where
pot plants out of flower can be placed and cared for during
their period of rest is one of the most important considera-

THE POTTING-SHED 131

tions for any possessor of a greenhouse. A bed of cocoa-nut
fibre, or even ashes, under a north wall is a good situation for
some plants. Others, again, require a more open, sunny
position, that they may get their wood well ripened to ensure
the next year's flowering. Therefore it is well to choose sites
in both aspects. A cold frame with a brick or concrete floor,
safe from garden vermin, and facing south, is admirable for
Cacti and such like plants which enjoy summer rains as well as
summer sunshine, and the lights can be entirely removed for
two or three months with great benefit. Similar quarters will
suit Cape bulbs at rest, such as Freesias, Nerines, and
Lachenalias, but in their case the lights must be left on, as it
is essential that they be kept absolutely dry and baked during
the weeks which intervene between the fading of the leaf and
potting-time, which comes in most cases about the end of
July and during August. Cold frames are useful, besides, in
a hundred different ways. In addition to these plunging-beds
and wooden or brick frames, there should always be a reserve
space, generally to be found in the kitchen garden, where
certain plants and bulbs may be planted out to recruit after
a season of flowering under glass. This is always a weakening
process, though much less so in an unheated greenhouse than
when stronger forcing is in practice : still, most plants are
benefited by a term of free growth in the open air. Some
may be lifted every autumn, and can be trusted to do their
duty well, but others require to be treated on the alternate
system, flowering one year and resting the next ; while in the
case of bulbs, if we wish to raise our own stock, a longer
rotation will be necessary.

The treatment of pot plants at rest is a part of gardening
sadly set aside by the average amateur. The professional
gardener knows too well how much his future success depends
upon the care then given to neglect it. It is true that it is
not always easy to provide all the accommodation that is most

1 32 THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE

suitable, but it behoves every grower to make the best
preparation in his power for this purpose, remembering always
that the greenhouse itself is far from being the fittest place
in which pot plants, for the most part, can recruit their spent
strength and make ready for the next season's campaign.

All the above may seem to be trifling and unimportant
details, scarcely worth insising upon, for they come naturally,
as it were, to old gardeners; but it is a great help to a
beginner to be put on the right path from the outset, as
every one will bear witness who has gone through the
helpless stage of floundering in and out of initial difficulties.

CHAPTER XX
ROUTINE WORK

THE amateur gardener who is content to supply his green-
house with pot plants from a nursery, even though he be
willing to take some care of them when flowering is over,
loses a vast deal of enjoyment. The different processes of
seed-raising, of propagation by cuttings by various methods,
of the training and pruning of growing plants, are full of
interest, and give great zest to the occupation, which then
becomes a real recreation of the best type — which consists in
a change of work. To have nursed a seedling one's self, through
all its different stages, into a vigorous flowering plant, gives a
satisfaction which the finest effort of the nurseryman will never
bestow upon a mere purchaser.

A very simple form of Wardian-case and a set of bell-
glasses of various sizes are of the greatest assistance in
raising plants either from seed or from cuttings. The case
which I have long had in use was originally made with a
water-tank to be heated by a lamp burning beneath it, but
any artificial heating was dispensed with years ago. All that
is needed is a removable zinc tray, about 2 in. deep,
to hold a layer of damp sand on which the pots can stand.
It is, in fact, a mere glass-box with a sloping lid, standing on
legs of a convenient height, which may be made by any
one who is capable of handling carpentering tools. This
most useful piece of furniture can generally find a place in
some unoccupied corner of a greenhouse — preferably, of

134 THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE

course, in a working greenhouse, as it is not ornamental — and
is then always ready to take in a pot of cuttings or of
seed, and is invaluable all the year round. Seed-sowing is
not merely a springtide occupation. In almost every case
seeds vegetate more surely and freely when they are sown as
soon as ripe, though some are benefited by a short time of
waiting to harden and consolidate. The seeds of Primulas,
Anemones, Gentians, and many other plants will germinate
at once if sown as soon as they are gathered, but if they
are held over till the spring a few may come up, but it is
quite possible that there may be no crop of seedlings until
the following year — not because the seed is bad, but because
the vitality is in some degree lowered. For this reason, it is
not wise to discard any pan containing valuable seed, without
giving it the chance of germinating the following year. This
may seem a formidable trial of patience, but I have done
it many times and with success. Seeds should, therefore, be
not only collected, but sown, as soon as they are fit. Another
point to remember is that seeds can scarcely be sown too
thinly. It is much better to have a few strong plants than
dozens of spindlings elbowing themselves out of the seed-pan
and driving the raiser distracted trom inability to .cope with
them. Nature is prodigal in the matter of seed-sowing, but
she thoroughly understands the principle of the survival of
the fittest, and prepares for it in her seemingly rough and
ready way. Under cultivation, lavishness of this kind is
mere waste of life. Nothing is more fascinating than to
watch the germination and progress of seedlings, from the
unfolding of the cotyledons, through the processes of pricking-
out and shifting into pots of graduated size, until, after due
education in the way of training and trimming into shape,
they grow into fine specimen plants. The same may be
said of cuttings. The little slip that one begs of a kindly
neighbour and which responds to care by rooting and

ROUTINE WORK 135

thriving gives an infinity of pleasure by association and by
pride of skill. It is here that the bell-glasses come in as
valuable auxiliaries. A cutting has twice the chance of
striking if it be kept "close," as it is then sheltered from
trying variations of temperature, for its well-doing depends
largely on the leaves never losing their freshness and remaining
as far as may be in workable order. It may — possibly —
recover if put in water to revive after it has become limp, and
do well, but it is safer far, seeing that its leaves are its lungs,
never to let a cutting flag, so that there may be no interference
with the work of forming a callus. This term is applied to
the granulation of the tissues at the base of the cutting, and
shows that healthy action is going on, which will soon be
followed by roots. As a rule, a cutting will root much more
rapidly under a bell-glass, but the close treatment does not
answer in every case. A pelargonium, for example, roots
much more freely in full exposure to sun and light, and would
suffer from the damp still air of the bell-glass. It is very
necessary, in all cases, to lift the glasses at least once a
day to wipe off the condensed moisture within them, other-
wise the cuttings are apt to " damp off." It is difficult to
give any very definite rules as to the uses of bell-glasses.
Failure is probably due, when it occurs, to the cuttings
being in an unfit state to strike, but they are, when properly
used, indispensable additions to the amateur's garden outfit.
It is well always to remember the old garden adage that " In
spring you may bid your cutting to grow, but in autumn it
must be asked."

The training and pruning of pot plants are arts which must
be learnt by practice. The amateur seldom has courage to
use the knife as much as he should, but the beauty and
symmetry of most plants depend upon the treatment they
receive on this point. Many kinds, both of seedlings and
cuttings, have to be pinched back at an early stage to induce

136 THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE

bushy growth, otherwise they may run up with a bare
unsightly stem. If they are allowed to go ahead at their
own sweet will, it is a difficult matter to bring them back,
later on, into good shape. The time at which pruning is
done is also of great importance. Too often the cutting back
of a plant or shrub is neglected at the right moment — then, in
a fit of energy and ignorance, we set to work and find, too
late, that we have diligently cut away every hope of flowers for
the coming season. Deutzias flower on the young wood, and
any cutting away that is needed of the old branches should be
done immediately after flowering. Clematises may be taken
as another familiar example. The purple C. Jackmani
flowers in the autumn on the new growth of the current year,
and requires pruning back during winter before the shoots
begin to break. C. montana, as well as those of the large
earlier-flowering type (like C. lanuginosa), bloom, on the
contrary, on the wood of the last season, and merely need
thinning out, or must be cut back very sparingly when
flowering is over. The same rule applies to the charming,
half-hardy New Zealand species, C. indivisa. Many of the
fine hybrid forms of Clematis succeed well, not as climbers,
but in small pots, and are particularly well adapted for an
unheated greenhouse.

Roses on their own roots of the less vigorous type, such
as Catherine Mermet, are often sufficiently pruned by cutting
their flowers with a tolerably long stem, whereas stronger-
growers are the better for harder cutting back. A few shrubs,
like Brugmansia and Desmodium, will bear cutting down to
the ground level after flowering, and succeed all the better for
such drastic treatment.

ROUTINE WORK 137

WATERING

is one of the most critical operations of greenhouse work,
requiring both knowledge and judgment. The plan of going
round with a watering-pot and giving a driblet to every plant,
whether it wants it or not, is most injurious. Many a time
it happens when leaves are noticed to be flagging that more
water is given, when in reality the soil is saturated and the
plant is already suffering from over-doses which it has not the
power to assimilate. In potting, sufficient space should be
allowed below the rim of the pot to hold water. In hot, dry
weather this space may have to be filled up two, or even three,
times, in order that the soil maybe thoroughly moistened — espe-
cially when the potting has been as firm as it should be — after
which it will probably need no more for a day or two. Arums,
being water-plants, are all the better for standing in a pan of
water during growth, and a drop hanging from the point of
the leaf is a sign of perfect health. Heaths, though they
must never once be allowed to become dust-dry, will not bear
sodden, water-logged soil, which will decay the fine root-fibres,
and it is a matter of experience to keep the happy mean.
Succulent plants, on the other hand, must be kept dry rather
than moist, and in winter, as a general rule, require no water
at all, unless they show signs of distress by becoming shrivelled.
Almost all plants, however, during their growing season, will
take ample supplies, because it must be remembered that all
food reaches them in liquid form. When active growth
begins to lessen and life shows signs of ebbing, it is better
gradually to withhold water. Bulbs, especially those which
lose their leaves, require a season of complete rest, and usually
have to be kept dry. Cape bulbs, like Nerines and some
others, as before, said, enjoy a few weeks of roasting on a
sunny shelf or frame — the pots being turned on their sides,

138 THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE

the more surely to be safe from drip — and bloom all the
better for it. Scarborough Lilies (Vallota purpurea), on the
contrary, being more or less evergreen, must be kept growing
all the year round. The drying-off system, though admirable
in many cases, does not always answer — a fact which has been
proved with regard to Cyclamens, which formerly used to be
so treated. I had a fine Persian Cyclamen for many years,
treasured in memory of a friend, which literally gave hundreds
of flowers every season. The corm was re-potted immediately
after the blooming was over, and the pot sunk in a bed of hot-
bed refuse prepared for plants which were benefited by such
treatment and kept watered. The old leaves soon disappeared,
new ones taking their place almost at once, and nothing could
have been more satisfactory than the result. When I see it
stated, as I often do, that two-year-old corms of Cyclamen are
of little value, fit only for the rubbish-heap, I call to mind my
ancient comrade who fought the battle of life for many years
so bravely, and sigh to think of the waste of good plants
which, with a little care, might give delight to many who
cannot afford the luxury of buying them.

A brass syringe is a very useful help in watering — a shower
overhead being both refreshing and cleansing to most plants,
and a terror to red spider. Ferns, however, and more par-
ticularly Maidenhairs, though they love a damp atmosphere
about them, are not improved by having their fronds wetted.
In truth, there is scarcely any part of greenhouse work which
has to be learnt by experience so much as watering. Yet, oddly
enough, in the absence of the rightful owner the watering-pot
is generally entrusted with a light heart to any one willing to
undertake the office of using it, without a thought of
Nemesis.

A word may here be said on the use of Insecticides. In an
unheated greenhouse there should be little occasion for such
applications. Blight of all kinds, especially mealy-bug and

ROUTINE WORK 139

scale, naturally grow apace in the warmth and close atmos-
phere of the hot-house, but ought never to be found where
there is no artificial heat. Green fly and thrips are sometimes
troublesome, but a very little watchfulness and attention will
suffice to keep them under, and prevention is better than
cure. In a small greenhouse, a basin with a decoction of
quassia-chips, or even of plain water, and a small paint-brush
always at hand in use will keep the enemy at bay. On a
larger scale, fumigation occasionally will be necessary. When
plants are growing vigorously, there is little to fear from
insect pests, and towards this desirable end some kind of
artificial manure or plant food is often a great help, such as
bone meal — in certain cases to be mixed with the soil in
potting — or one of the many specialities advertised for the
purpose. Soot-water, made by putting a coarse canvas bag
containing a peck of soot into a barrel of rain-water and letting
it stand, after an occasional stir, until the liquid is of the
colour of strong tea and quite clear from sediment, is one of
the most valuable of fertilisers that can be used, and may be
safely given to Ferns as well as to flowering plants. It should
be diluted with rain-water when used, and given twice a week
during the growing- and flowering-period — a much better plan
than administering a strong dose haphazard. Stimulants of
all kinds must naturally be discontinued when plants are at
rest.

A garden-book in which entries are regularly made ot
plants received and from whence they come, with accurate
dates of seeds sown and of their germination, with all
other details of the kind which may strike the cultivator
as being noteworthy, helps to lift the routine of green-
house work out of the rut of mere commonplace, and
makes it at once more systematic and scientific. Such a
record faithfully kept, besides adding tenfold to our interest,
increases in value year by year, and can confidently be

140 THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE

appealed to for the settlement of doubtful questions which
continually crop up.

It is a happy thing to have a working greenhouse of our
very own where we may find occupation, not in desultory
fashion, but with method and intent, and even make mistakes
at our own sweet will. In doing so we learn by experiment
the intricacies and the art as well as the delights of plant-
management, which neither gardener nor printed book can
teach so well as the practice of our own hands — so true is it
that one grain of experience is worth a whole bushel of
theory.

The unheated greenhouse has a future before it full of
possibilities, while on its experimental side there is a vast
amount yet for the most skilful to learn. On a large scale, it
is worthy of a palace, but like all other phases of garden-work
it belongs to no class and adapts itself to every home, bringing
beauty and solace as much into leisured as into toiling lives as
scarcely any other recreative occupation can. The trend of
modern out-door gardening is towards broad effects, grand
vistas, spreading lawns, and cascades of roses — in short,
towards all the garden luxury which lies within the scope of
ample space and riches at command — delightful beyond
words for those who can indulge in them. The unheated
greenhouse, while it appeals to these, for it may take on noblest
proportions, appeals first and foremost to the plant votary ol
another calibre and to a different sense. It is within the
compass, if need be, of moderate means and moderate powers
of health and strength, providing a calm and restful, yet suffi-
ciently absorbing, recreation at all times from the arduous
duties, or, it may be, labours of life, whereby the simplest
home and family festival may be glorified — or the hours of
harass and sorrow mitigated and soothed, while the tension of
anxious care is relaxed.

ROUTINE WORK 141

The earnest wish of my heart will be fulfilled if these prac-
tical hints, slightly, but not, I hope, carelessly, strung together,
may awaken greater interest in a branch of garden-work which,
for some special reasons, is beyond all others suited to rest
the weary brain without over-taxing a not too robust
physique.

APPENDIX

In offering the following lists it may be well to
state that the different classes of plants are arranged
under distinct heads no less for the sake of clearness
than with intention from a cultural point of view.
In starting work in an unheated greenhouse it is
desirable that the amateur gardener should choose
one or, at most, two of the classes named, according
to individual taste, making a specialty, for example,
of roses or bulbs or alpines, as the case may be,
rather than that he should attempt to grow a mis-
cellaneous selection in which each separate plant
requires a different treatment.

The subjoined lists make no claim to be descrip-
tive, but simply supply practical hints from past
experience as to the treatment of the plants named,
which it is hoped may be helpful.

( 145 )

A SELECTION OF PLANTS SUITABLE FOR

FLOWERING IN AN ALPINE HOUSE

FROM JANUARY TO MAY

Many Alpines admirable for the Rock Garden are purposely
omitted from this list as unsuitable for various reasons, whilst
some are named which are equally available for an ordinary un-
heated greenhouse. These are marked with an asterisk*.

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

Soil.

General Remarks.

*Adonis amu-

6-12 ins.

N. China

Rich

Ranunculaceae. Much ear-

rensis

Yellow

Jan.-Feb.

sandy

lier than A. vernalis,

loam

which it somewhat re-

sembles. The Japanese

have taken this plant in

hand, and by hybridis-

ing have obtained many

finely-coloured varieties,

which will probably soon

find their way into our

gardens.

Anemone apen-

6 ins.

Italy

Loam

Ranunculacege. Apennine

nina

Lavender

March

and leaf-

Wood-anemone.

-blue

mould

blanda

6 ins.

Greece

it

The earliest form of Wood-

Deep-

Jan.-Feb.

anemone. A. bl. Scy-

blue

thinica is a pure white

variety.

*fulgens

9 ins.

S. Europe

Loam

Almost all alpine anemones

Scarlet

Feb.-Mar.

and a

are beautiful, and may be

little lime

grown with success for

Pulsatilla

6-9 ins.

N. Europe

,,

the Alpine house, but the

(Pasque flower)

Mar. -Apr.

,,

four species mentioned

are the most generally

satisfactory for pots in

early Spring.

K

146

APPENDIX

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

Sou.

General Remarks.

Androsace Lag

3 ins.

Pyrenees

Sandy

Primulaceos. Many other

geri

Pink

March

peat and

species besides the two

sarmentosa

4-6 ins.

Himalayas

loam with

named of these delicate

Rose

Apl.-May

leaf-

alpine plants are grown

mould

in pans and flower well in

the Alpine house at Kew.

Wedge between small

pieces of stone.

Arabis albida fl

4-6 ins.

Hort. var.

Ordinary

Cruciferae. A handsome

pi. (White

White

March

loam

double form of the well-

Rock-cress)

known white Rock-cress.

New and good.

Aubrietia del

3-6 ins.

S. Europe

Sandy

Cruciferae. Many fine

toidea (Purple

Lilac-

Mar. -May

loam

garden varieties of Au-

|Rock-cress)

purple

bretia have been raised

of late years, varying

much in tones of colour

from pale purple to al-

most crimson.

Bongardia Rau-

6 ins.

Persia

Sandy

Berberideae. An interest-

wolfii

Golden

April

peat and

ing and pretty plant, apt

yellow

leaf-

to perish from damp when

mould

grown without protection.

*Cardamine

4-6 ins.

U.S.A.

Moist

Cruciferae. A desirable

rhomboidea

Lilac-

March

loam and

little plant, bright in

purpurea fl. pi.

purple

leaf soil

flower and easily man-

(Double Cuck-

aged. Plant in reserve-

oo-flower)

bed in summer.

*Conandron ra-

6 ins.

Japan

Sandy

Gesneracese. A remark-

mondioides

Pink to

May

peat

able and interesting plant,

purple

allied to Ramondia and

Haberlea. Introduced in

1879.

Dodecatheon

8-10 ins.

N. Ameri-

Moist

Primulaceae. Slender

Media (Ameri-

Purple,

ca

loam and

stems with umbels of

can Cowslip)

lilac, or

April

leaf-soil

pointed flowers with

white

petals turned back. Dis-

tinct and pretty. There

are several good species

and varieties. Shade

loving.

*Epimedium al-

6 ins.

Cent.

Peat and

Berberideae. All the Epi-

pinum

Crimson

Europe

loam

mediums are elegant both

and

March

in flower and leafage,

yellow

and as foliage plants

PLANTS SUITABLE FOR ALPINE HOUSE

i47

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

Soil.

General Remarks.

*alpinum ru-

Foliage

Japan

Peat and

alone form a distinct

brum

red-tintd

Mar.-Apl.

loam

feature in an alpine house.

*macranthum

10-12 ins.

Japan

,,

White

April

*pinnatum

12-15 ms-

Persia

,,

Apl.-May

Erysimum alpi-

6 ins.

Norway

Ordinary

Cruciferae = Cheiranthus

num (Alpine

Sulphur-

April and

loam

alpinus. A well-known

Wall-flower)

yellow

May

plant.

Galax aphylla

3-6 ins.

N. Ameri-

Moist

Diapensiaceae. Chiefly re-

(Wand Plant)

White

ca

peat and

markable for its beautiful

May

leaf-soil

red shining leaves during

winter. Difficult to grow

well.

*Gentiana acau-

2-4 ins.

European

Moist

Gentianeae. Like the last-

lis(Gentianella)

Deep

Alps

loam and

named, these can be

blue

Mar.-Apl.

leaf-soil

grown in pans kept moist

and cool out of doors

verna

1-3 ins.

,,

Boggy

during summer. Gen-

Bright

April and

peat and

tians succeed best when

blue

May

leaf-soil

raised from seed sown as

soon as ripe and disturbed

as little as possible after-

wards except for an occa-

top-dressing.

Geranium ro-

6-9 ins.

Britain

Ordinary

Geraniaceae. Though only

bertianum al-

White

Mar. -May

loam

a form of a common Eng-

bum

lish wilding, this white-

flowered Crane's bill may

be grown into an ex-

tremely elegant plant.

Haberlea rhodo-

4-6 ins.

Roumelia

Sandy

Gesneraceae. Somewhat

pensis

Lilac

Mar.-Apl.

peat and

like a miniature gloxinia

leaf -soil

with the habit of Ramon-

dia. Plant in a deep pot

with a cleft at the side,

wedging the roots be-

tween stones, so that it

may grow in a vertical

position against the side.

Houstonia cce-

3-4 ins.

Virginia

Sandy

Rubiaceae. Forms dense

rulea (Bluets)

Blue or

April and

peat

tufts crowded with flow-

white

May

ers, and may be used for

surfacing pots in which

tall bare-stemmed plants

are growing.

APPENDIX

*~

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

Soil.

General Remarks.

lonopsidium a-

2 ins.

Portugal

Ordinary

Cruciferae. A useful little

caule (Violet

Lilac

Feb. -May

loam

annual for many purposes

Cress)

and may be had in flower

at any season from suc-

cessive sowings. Sows

itself freely.

Isopyrum tha-

9- 1 2 ins.

Europe

Sandy

Ranunculacese. A grace-

lictroides

White

Mar.-Apl.

loam

ful little plant, with fo-

liage somewhat like Mai-

denhair fern.

Lithospermum

3 ins.

S. Europe

Sandy

Boragineae. A trailing

prostratum

Gentian

April

loam

evergreen, constantly in

blue

flower and makes a good

pan.

Lysimachia cris-

6-9 ins.

China

Primulaceae. A dwarf

pideus

Pink

Mar.

branching plant, flower-

ing profusely for a long

time. Of recent intro-

duction.

Mertensia al-

6-10 ins.

Rocky Mts.

Ordinary

Boragineae. A charming

pina

Light

April

loam

little alpine. Another

blue

sp., M. primuloides, flow-

Leaves

ered in Alpine house,

glaucous

Kew, April and May,

1902.

Morisia hypo-

2-3 ins.

Sardinia

Damp

Cruciferae. A pretty little

gaea

Yellow

Mar. and

sandy

plant for growing amongst

April

loam

stones half-sunk in a pan.

Myosotis alpes-

2-3 ins.

Europe

Rich

Boragineae. The Forget-

tris

Bright

April

moist

me-nots make charming

blue

and May

loam

ing pot plants. A garden

azorica

4-8 ins.

Azores

Sandy

form of M. azorica — Im-

Deep

May

loam

peratrice Elizabeth — is

blue

often so grown, making a

*dissitiflora

6 ins.

Switzer-

Ordinary

sturdy little bush of

Sky-blue

land

light

about 6 ins. high and

Jan. and

loam

flowering profusely.

Feb.

*Nierembergia

Creeping

La Plata

Moist

Solanaceae. A fine trail-

rivularis

White

May

sandy

ing plant when well

loam and

grown, rooting at the

leaf-

joints. Large white

mould

flowers.

PLANTS SUITABLE FOR ALPINE HOUSE

149

Name.

Height and
Colour.

:X
Country and
Season under
Glass.

Soil.

Genera Remarks.

OmphalodesLu

4-6 ins.

Greece

Sandy

Boragineae. A very lovely

ciliae

Lilac-

April and

loam

mountain plant.

blue

May

Leaves

glaucous

Onosma albo

3-6 ins.

Asia

Sandy

Boraginese. Liable to

roseum

White

minor

loam and

damp off in wet seasons

echioides (Gol

and rose

April

peat

out of doors, therefore

den Drop)

4-6 ins.

S. Europe

suitable for cold house

stellulatum

Yellow

April

where the climate is un-

tauricum

6-10 ins.

Caucasus

M

genial. O. echioides is a

yellow or

May

biennial.

white

Papaver alpi

3-6 ins.

Alps

Ordinary

Papaveraceae. Best treated

num

Orange

N. Europe

sandy

as an annual. Sown in

to white

Spring

kam

August or September will

flower in early Spring.

Phlox amrena

6-9 ins.

U.S.A.

Sandy

Polemoniacess. The two

Rosy-

May

loam

first make pretty pot-

pink

plants. The trailing

divaricata ca-

9-12 ins.

N. Am.

lt

species do better for pans

nadensis

Blue

May

or edging troughs.

reptans

Crteper

Alleghany

,,

Purple

Mts.

April

subulata

Creeper

St. of N.

,,

(Moss-pink)

Pink-

York

^

lilac and

March

v

white

Polemonium

6 ins.

N. West

Sandy

A variety more easily

Jacob's Ladder

White

America

loam and

grown than the beautiful

(confertum)

April and

leaf-soil

typical form with deep-

v. melitum

May

blue flowers.

Primula

Primulaceae. The primu-

*denticulata

Sins.

Himalaya

Rich

las are amongst the most

Lilac or

Feb. on-

moist

interesting of Alpine

white

wards

loam

plants, and there are

marginata

3-4 ins.

Switzer-

,,

many more species than

Lilac

land

can be enumerated here.

Mar.-Apl.

P. marginata has leaves

silver-edged with farina.

megasesefolia

4-6 ins.

P. megaseaefolia is a valu-

Purple

Feb.

able new species.

onwards

APPENDIX

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

Soil.

General Remarks.

pubescens alba

3-6 ins.

Hybrid

Sandy

P. pubescens alba = ni-

White

April

loam

valis is a charming plant.

Reidi

2-3 ins.

Himalaya

Sandy

P. Reidi is a choice little

White

Apl.-May

peat

primrose. The possessor

rosea grandi-

4 ins.

Kashmir

Moist

of an alpine house should

flora

Rose

Apl.-May

loamy

turn his attention to this

peat

delightful genus. All the

viscosa

2-4 ins.

Pyrenees

Light

primulas love coolness

Rosy-

May

loam and

and moisture.

purple

leaf-

mould

&c.

Primulina Ta-

4-6 ins.

N. China

Sandy

Gesneraceae. A recent in-

bacum

Violet

Spring

loam and

troduction.

leaf-

mould

Ramondia py-

3-4 ins.

Pyrenees

Sandy

Gesneraceae. This may be

renaica (Ro-

Purple or

Apl.-May

peat

grown in a cleft pot in an

sette Mullein)

white

almost upright position

with advantage.

serbica var.

3 ins.

Monte-

»»

The best variety.

Nathaliae

Lilac

negro

May

Ranunculus am-

3-9 ins.

Alps and

Ranunculaceae. A beauti-

plexicaulis

White

Pyrenees

ful alpine buttercup.

April

*Saxifraga api-

3-5 ins.

Hybrid

Gritty

Saxifrageae. A very large

culata

Primrose

Feb.-Apl.

loam and

genus including plants of

burseriana

2-3 ins.

Eur. Alps

leaf-

very different habit. Most

major

White

Jan.

mould

interesting and generally

onwards

and

easy to grow.

Boydi

2-3 ins.

Hybrid

chips of

Yellow

Feb -Mar.

lime-

Camposi

3-6 ins.

Spain

stone

Large

Spring

white

Grisebachii

4-5 ins.

Macedonia

tt

A new species highly spo-

Rose-

Jan. -Mar.

ken of, and one of the

pink to

earliest to flower.

purple

oppositifolia

Creeping

Eur. Alps

»

vars

stems

Feb. -Mar.

Purple

and

while

PLANTS SUITABLE FOR ALPINE HOUSE

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

Soil.

General Remarks.

Rhei

2-4 ins.

Gritty

Pink

loam and

*Stracheyi (Me-

4-8 ins.

W. Hims.

leaf-

gasaea section)

Pink or

March

mould

&c. &c.

white

-April

and

chips of

lime-

stone

Schizocodon sol-

2-3 ins.

Japan

Sandy

Diapensiaceae. A most

danellioides

Rose

March

peat

beautiful plant of recent

introduction (1893), and

still scarce.

Sempervivum

3-4 ins.

Central

Gritty

Crassulaceae.

arachnoideum

(flower

Europe

loam and

(Cobweb House

stems)

May

leaf-

-leek)

Red

mould

*Shortia galaci-

2-3 ins.

N. Caro-

Fibrous

Diapensiaceae. One of the

folia

White

lina

loam and

gems cf the alpine house.

March

leaf-

This and the above schi-

mould

zocodon belong to the

same natural order, and

are worth any trouble to

establish. Both have a

tendency to deep-coloured

foliage, like Galax aphylla

— a near ally.

Soldanella alp-

3 ins.

Tyrol and

Moist

Primulaceae. Difficult to

in a var. Wheel-

Violet

Swiss Alps

sandy

flower. For culture in

ed

Mar.-Apl.

loam and

sphagnum moss see Chap,

peat

VI.

*Symphyandra

6-8 ins.

Transyl-

Sandy

Campanulaceae. Biennial.

Warmer!

Purple-

vania

loam

A very desirable plant

blue

May

nearly allied to Campa-

nula. Likes shade.

Thalictrum ane-

6 ins.

N. Ameri-

Moist

Ranunculaceae. An ele-

monoides

White

ca

sandy

gant little plant, best

March

peat

raised from seed.

*Tiarella cordi-

6-9 ins.

N. Ameri-

Ordinary

Saxifrageae. Rather larger

folia (Foam

White

ca

light

than most of the alpines

flower)

April

loam

given in this list, but

very useful. Feathery

white spikes.

Trientalis ame-

6-9 ins.

N. W. Am.

Sandy

Primulaceae. Very similar

ricana (Star-

White

April

peat

to the European species

flower)

but a finer plant.

152

APPENDIX

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

Soil.

General Remarks.

Viola calcarata

Creeping

Austrian

Moist

Violaceae. The New Hol-

stems

and

sandy

land violet (Erpetion re-

Purple

Swiss Alps

loam

niforme) is an interesting

Mar. -May

little plant, very similar

Munbyana

4-6 ins.

Algeria

H

in character to these al-

Purple or

Feb. -May

pine violets.

yellow

pedata (Birds-

6 ins.

N. Am.

,,

foot Violet)

Blue

May

( 153 )

BULBS AND TUBERS SUITABLE FOR ASSOCIATING
WITH ALPINE PLANTS IN FLOWER FROM
JANUARY TO MAY

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

Soil.

General Remarks.

Brodisea sellowi-

6 ins.

Uraguay

Sandy

Liliaceae. A new species

ana

Yellow

Jan. -Mar.

loam

which flowers more or less

throughout the winter.

Colchicum mon-

3-4 ins.

S. Europe

Moist

Liliaceae. These species

tanum var.

Lilac-

Jan.-Feb.

sandy

of Colchicum, unlike C.

Ritchii

white

loam

autumnale, flower with

the leaves.

*Crocus Im-

3-6 ins.

Italy

Light

Irideae. C. Imperati is one

perati

Lilac and

Jan.-Feb.

sandy

of the first flowers of the

buff

loam

New Year in an alpine

Sieberi

2-3 ins.

Greek

M

house.

Lilac-

Mts.

self

Feb.-Mar.

Cyclamen coum

3 ins.

S. Europe

Sandy

Primulaceae. Unlike the

Asia

loam,

autumn flowering species,

minor

leaf-

these flower with their

Jan. -Mar.

mould,

leaves, which in C. coum

ibericum

Rose to

Caucasus

and lime-

are dark green but in C.

white

Feb.-Apl.

stone

ibericum are marbled

chips

with white.

Dicentra cana-

6 ins.

N. Am.

Rich

Fumariaceae. A pretty

densis (Squir-

White

April

loam and

Fumitory with fine-cut

rel-corn)

leaf-

glaucous foliage.

mould

Eranthis cilicica

i -6 ins.

Asia

Ordinary

Ranunculaceae. The well-

Yellow

minor

potting

known Winter Aconite.

Jan.

soil

Chiefly useful for its ex-

hyemalis

„

Europe

»

treme hardiness and ear-

liness. The first is rarer

and rather more delicate

in growth, but there is

little difference.

154

APPENDIX

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

Soil.

General Remarks.

*Erythronium

3-6 ins.

Mts. of

Liliaceae. These rare Dog's

grandiflorum

Yellow

Washing-

Tooth Violets mostly have

robustum

ton

mottled leaves and make

March

beautiful and interesting

Hartwegi

4-8 ins.

California

Loam

pot-plants, being taller

Cream -

Mar.-Apl.

and more lasting in flower

white

than the well-known E.

Henderson!

4-6 ins.

Oregon

and

Dens canis.

Pale-

Mar.-Apl.

rose

Howelli

4-6 ins.

tt

peat

Pale

mauve

Johnston!

4-6 ins.

»

Rose-

pink

*Fritillaria au-

6 ins.

A. minor

Sandy

Liliaceae. F. aurea has a

rea

Yellow

March

loam and

large drooping bell yel-

pudica

4-6 ins.

Rocky

leaf-

low flecked with brown.

Yellow

Mts.

mould

A lovely plant. Several

April

bulbs should be grown

in a pan. F. pudica is

quite distinct.

Hyacinthusazu-

4-6 ins.

A. minor

Loam

Liliaceae. Several bulbs

reus

Sky blue

Jan.-Feb.

and leaf-

should be grown in a pot.

mould

Iris bakeriana

4-6 ins.

Armenia

Irideae. All here named

Blue and

Jan.-

are bulbous species. I.

violet

March

Heldreichi is very dis-

Danfordiae

3 ins.

A. minor

Rich

tinct, lasting long in

Yellow

Jan.-Feb.

gritty

flower, and one of the

*Heldreichi

2-5 ins.

A. minor

loam

most beautiful of the re-

Grey-blue

Jan.-Feb.

cent introductions from

and

and

Asia minor, only a few of

purple

which are given here.

*Histrio

4-6 ins.

Palestine

leaf-

Blue with

Jan.-Feb.

spotted

mould

falls

persica

3-4 ins.

Persia

Pale

Feb.-

bluish,

March

green and

violet

BULBS AND TUBERS

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

Soil.

General Remarks.

Leucojum ver-

6-8 ins.

Cent.

Ordinary

Amaryllideae. A well-

num (Spring

White

Europe

potting

known Spring bulb.

Snowflake)

Feb. -Mar.

soil

Merendera cau-

3-4 ins.

Caucasus

Moist

Liliaceae. Very like a

casica

Pale

Feb.-Mar.

sandy

small colchicum, to which

purple

loam

it is nearly related.

Narcissus Bul-

S. Europe

Sandy

Amaryllideae. These small

bocodium =

loam

Narcissi are all charming,

Corbularia

and

and with care do well and

(Hooped Petti-

leaf-

increase in pots. The

coat)

mould

bulbs are so small that

*vars. citri-

4-6 ins.

Feb. and

they are only suitable for

nus

Sulphur

a rock garden otherwise.

*conspicuus

4-8 ins.

March

Yellow

*monophylla

3-4 ins.

Algeria

White

Jan. -Feb.

Narcissus cy-

6-8 ins.

Portugal

Moist

N. cyclamineus has re

clamineus

Pale

March

soil

flexed petals, as denoted

yellow

by its name.

minor

4-6 ins.

Europe

Ordinary

These are the smallest

Bright

Feb.-

potting

Trumpet daffodils.

yellow

March

soil

minimus

3-4 ins.

triandrus

6-10 ins.

Spain and

Sandy

A charming little species

White to

Portugal

loam and

with many varieties. Well

sulphur

Mar.-Apl.

leaf-

adapted for pot culture.

mould

Petals reflexed.

Puschkinia scil-

4-8 ins.

A. minor

Rich

Liliaceae. Allied to Scilla.

lioides

White

March

sandy

striped

loam

blue

Scilla bifolia

6-8 ins.

A. minor

Sandy

Liliaceae. The best var. of

var. taurica

Bright

Feb.

loam

S. bifolia.

blue

sibirica

M

Siberia

M

or white

Feb.

Scoliopus Bige-

3-6 ins.

California

Sandy

A curious and attractive

lovii

Chocolate

Jan. -Feb.

loam

little bulb, in habit and

and

leaf like Erythronium,

brown

with a small three-petal-

led flower of remarkable

colouring. Introduced

about ten years ago.

'56

APPENDIX

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

Soil.

General Remarks.

*Sisyrinchium

6-9 ins.

N.-W.

Sandy

Irideae. Eight to twelve

grandiflorum

Purple or

America

peat

should be grown in a pot,

white

Jan.-Feb.

as the habit is very

slender. It sometimes

will flower as early as

New Year's Day.

Tecophilsea cy-

6-9 ins.

Chili

Sandy

Haemodoraceae. The Chi-

anocrocus

Gentian-

Mar.-Apl.

peat and

lian Crocus. Pot in Au-

blue

leaf-

gust and keep rather dry

mould

until fairly growing.

( 157 )

HARDY BULBS AND TUBERS NOT MENTIONED
UNDER ALPINE HOUSE LIST

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

Soil.

General Remarks.

Anemone coro-

Q-I2 ins.

S. Europe

Good

Ranunculaceae. The choi-

naria (Poppy

Early to

rich

cer kinds, especially the

anemone)

late

loam

double vars., are very

Spring

useful in early spring in

stellata

6-8 ins.

S. Europe

M

the quite cold green-

Rosy

Mar.-Apl.

house. There are several

purple

garden forms of A. stel-

or white

lata.

Brodiaea uni-

4-6 ins.

Buenos

Ordinary

Lily Order. A good many

flora

White or

Ayres

potting

new species of Brodiaea

pale blue

Mar.-Apl.

soil

have been introduced of

late years which may

prove useful as pot-plants

grouped with suitable fo-

liage, the stems being tall

and leafless.

Convallaria ma-

6-12 ins.

European

Rich

Lily Order. The vars. of

jalis

sandy

Lily of the Valley named

For tin's va-

White

Mar.-Apl.

loam

are amongst the best.

riety

" Victoria "

lt

tt

var.

Cyclamen euro-

4-6 ins.

Cent. Eur.

Sandy

Primrose Order. The au-

paeum

Purple-

Sept.-

loam and

tumn-flowering cycla-

red or

Oct.

leaf-

mens bloom before the

white

mould

leaves, but keep their

neapolitanum

6-8 ins.

S. Europe

and a

rosettes of beautifully

Aug.-Oct.

little lime

marbled foliage through

the winter and spring.

libanoticum

6-8 ins.

Lebanon

This is a recently intro-

Pale-

Feb.-Mar.

duced Spring - flowering

rose

species with rather large

foliagejand flowers.

i58

APPENDIX

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

Soil.

General Remarks.

Fritillaria Me-

12-15 ms-

British

Moist

Lily Order. Few of the

leagris

Che-

Mar.-Apl.

sandy

foreign species exceed our

quered

loam

own English Snake's

Purple or

Head Fritillary in beauty.

white

pallidiflora

9-12 ins.

Siberia

tt

Yellow

Spring

recurva

1 8-20 ins.

California

Orange-

April-

scarlet

May

2ft.

Gladiolus Col-

Hybrid

Loam

Iris Order. The well-

villei albus

White

Apl.-May

and

known gladiolus " The

sandy

Bride."

leaf-

mould

ramosus

2ft.

Hybrids

These belong to the early

(vars.)

Shades of

June-Aug.

summer flowering class.

scarlet

Iris cristata

4-6 ins.

U. S. A.

Ordinary

Iris Order. The Common

Lavender

Early

potting

Flag iris and the dwarf

-blue

summer

soil

I. pumila in their many

germanica

2-3 ft.

„

,,

beautiful forms will flower

Various

early under glass if grown

pumila

4-6 ins.

M

M

out of doors and lifted in

Various

Jan. For this purpose,

plants specially grown in

a reserved bed should be

used.

reticulata and

6-8 ins.

Caucasus

Sandy

These beautiful bulbous

Purple

Jan.

loam

irises, though quite hardy,

cyanea

Bright

to

and

are well worthy of the

blue

March

leaf-

shelter of glass.

Histrioides

Light

mould

violet

Krelagei

Red-

purple

Sophenensis

Varies

sindjarensis

9-12 ins.

Mesopota-

Sandy

A pretty new bulbous

Slaty

mia

loam

species.

blue and

March

cream

Xiphioides

2-3 ft.

Pyrenees

lt

English Iris is stronger

(English I.)

Various

July

growing with larger flow-

• ,

ers than the Spanish I.

HARDY BULBS AND TUBERS

159

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

Soil.

General Remarks.

Xiphium

2-3 ft.

S. Europe

Sandy

(Spanish I.)

Blue,

May-

loam

yellow,

June

bronze,

&c.

Kniphofia

12-18 ins.

Hybrid

,,

Lily Order. These dwarf

corallina

Scarlet

Autumn

" Red-hot Pokers " make

Macowani

12-15 ins.

C. Colony

}J

good pot - plants, but

Orange-

August

should stand out of doors

red

until about to open their

flowers to get full colour.

Milla biflora

6 ins.

Mexico

Rich

Lily Order. The small

White

August

sandy

bulbs are apt to be lost

loam

unless grown in pots.

Narcissus (Scil-

Amaryllis Order. Indis-

ly White, &c.)

pensable for cold house.

For best vars. see any

good Catalogue of Spring

Bulbs.

Oxalis floribun-

9-12 ins.

Chili

Sandy

Geranium Order. The Sor-

da

Rose

Through-

loam

rels only open in sunshine

out

or under artificial light.

summer

incarnata

9-2 ins.

C. of G.

}i

Pale

Hope

lilac

Spring

lobata

2-3 ins.

Chili

„

Golden

Autumn

yellow

Ornithogalum

9-12 ins

S. Europe

Rich

Lily Order. Remarkably

nutans var.

White

March

sandy

effective under artificial

boucheanum

and

loam

light. Scarcely ever seen

green

in good flower out of

doors owing to slugs eat-

ing off the stems.

Paradisea

12-15 ins'

Switzer-

Rich

Lily Order. Like a minia-

Liliastrum ma-

Pure

land

sandy

ture Madonna lily.

jor (St. Bru-

white

April

loam

no's lily)

Ranunculus

8-12 ins.

S. Europe

Loam

Buttercup Order. These

asiaticus

Various

and Asia

and leaf-

may be grown in pots in

Early

mould

cool frames with plenty

Spring

of ventilation, as they

are easily drawn up

and spoilt by too much

i6o

APPENDIX

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

SoU.

General Remarks.

coddling. Plant the

tubers in September and

October. Very ornamen-

tal when well managed.

Sternbergia

4-6 ins.

Caucasus

Ordinary

Amaryllis Order. Useful

fischeriana

Yellow

Jan.-Feb.

potting

from flowering in early

soil

winter, when the crocus-

like flowers are pretty.

Trillium

1 2- 1 8 ins.

N. Am.

Sandy

Lily Order. The American

grandiflorum

White

April

peat and

Wood -lily, so called.

leaf-

mould

Tulipa

8- 1 2 ins.

S. France

Loam

Lily Order. All kinds of

clusiana

Rose and

Spring

and leaf-

Tulips beginning with the

white

mould

early Van Thols and in-

fragrans

1 2 ins.

Algiers

,,

cluding many beautiful

Yellow

April

species as well as florists'

retroflexa

1 8 ins.

Hybrid

,,

varieties, are invaluable

Yellow

May

for the Spring months

from January (if planted

early enough) to June.

HALF-HARDY BULBS AND TUBERS.

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

Soil.

General Remarks.

Agapanthus

2-3 ft.

S. Africa

Good

Lily Order. Admirable in

umbellatus

Blue and

Summer

rich

pots and tubs for many

white

and

loam

purposes, and can be

var.

Autumn

stowed in an out-house

during winter.

Alstrcemeria pe-

12-15 ins-

Chili

Sandy

Amaryllis Order. A lovely

legrina alba

White

May-June

loam and

plant. Best grown in a

leaf-

long lily pot.

mould

and a

little peat

Anoiganthus

breviflorus

Arthropodium

2 ft. and

N. Zealand

Sandy

Lily Order. Beautiful

cirrhatum

upwards

May

loam

plants both in foliage and

White

and peat

branching heads of small

paniculatum

1 8 ins.

N. S.

but numerous flowers.

White

Wales

May

Begonias

Scarlet

Hybrids

Sandy

Begonia Order. A great

Tuberous

to white

loam and

summer show can be

vars.

and

leaf-

made with these popular

yellow

mould

plants, and the tubers can

be kept in sand or cocoa-

fibre in any safe place

away from winter frost.

Canna indica

Dwarf

Hybrids

Rich

Ginger Order. These are

and tall

Summer

loam and

most accommodating

vars.

and

sandy

plants, and are admirable

Shades of

Autumn

peat

both in foliage and flower.

scarlet

It is better to start the

and

)

root-stocks early in a cu-

yellow

cumber frame. These

can be stored during win-

ter in any dry frost-proof

place.

L

162

APPENDIX

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

Soil.

General Remarks.

Crinum Moorei

2-3 ft.

Natal

Rich

Amaryllis Order. These

Pale

Early

sandy

are remarkably fine plants.

pink

Summer

loam

The bulbs are large and

Powelli

2-3 ft.

Hybrid

,,

take large pots. Plenty

Rose red

of water in summer and

P. album

White

Summer

kept rather dry in winter.

Cyrtanthus

8-12 ins.

C. of G.

Sandy

Amaryllis Order.

angustifolius

Orange

Hope

loam

Slender elegant plants.

May

and

With care, the bulbs in-

lutescens

Lemon

Feb.-Mar.

fibrous

crease fast, especially C.

Macowani

Scarlet

Early

peat

McKenii.

McKenii

White

Summer

Dahlia cocci-

3-4 ft.

Mexico

Rich

Daisy Order. These

nea

Scarlet

Autumn

loam

species of Dahlia may be

Mercki ( =

2-3 ft.

Mexico

used with good effect for

D. glabrata)

Lilac

October

late autumn flowering.

Zimapani ( =

I -2 ft.

Mexico

For this purpose they

Cosmos di-

Dark

July-

should be plunged in the

ver sifolia)

maroon

October

open border, and all buds

picked off until they are

wanted to flower. Tubers

stored in winter.

Freesia refracta

10-12 ins.

C. of G.

Sandy

Iris Order. These succeed

alba

White

Hope

loam and

much better when grown

Leichtlinii

Yellow

lt

leaf-

without heat, but will

mould

bear no frost. There is a

pretty new species (F.

Armstrongi) with pink

flowers.

Funkia lanci-

1-2 ft.

Japan

Lily Order. A new late

folia, var. tar-

Lilac

Late

variety which should be

diflora

Autumn

inquired for.

Gladiolus

li-2 ft.

S. Africa

Rich

Iris Order. All the hybrid

Saundersii

Pale

Early

sandy

gladioli may be grown

scarlet

Autumn

loam

successfully in pots, but

Lemoinei

Various

Hybrids

should stand out of doors

Summer

until they flovsr to en-

nanceianus

,,

M

sure sturdy growth. Start

under glass.

Haemanthus

12 ins.

S. Africa Sandy

Amaryllis Order. Curious

albiflos

White

June loam

and interesting plants.

*puniceus

Orange-

,, and

The leaves of H. albiflos

salmon

fibrous

are evergreen. All re-

*sanguineus

Scarlet

,,

peat

quire a season of complete

*tigrinus

Crimson

April

rest and dryness after

flowering.

* Flowev-h«ads appear before the leaves.

HALF-HARDY BULBS AND TUBERS

163

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

Soil.

General Remarks.

Iris fimbriata

I-I^ft.

China

Sandy

Iris Order. A charming

( = I. chinen-

Lilac-

Apl.-May

loam and

but rather tender species,

sis)

blue

leaf-

which is impatient of

mould

root disturbance. Stand

out of doors after flower-

ing.

Ixias

1 2- 1 8 ins.

S. Africa

Sandy

Iris Order. Ixias do best

Various

May-June

light

potted in October and

loam

sheltered in a cold frame.

Six or eight corms to a

5-in. pot. I. viridiflora is

one of the most beautiful.

Lachenalia

6-8 ins.

S. Africa

Loam

luteola

Yellow

May

with a

and red

large pro-

Lily Order. Beautiful and

Nelsoni

Golden

}>

portion of

easily-managed bulbs (see

pendula

Rosy

November

sharp

p. 58)

purple

coarse

tricolor

Yellow,

Early

sand

and vars.

scarlet,

and

purple

edged

Laipeyrousia

6- 10 ins.

S. Africa

Light

Iris Order. Charming

cruenta

Pale

June

sandy

little bulbs, which flower

carmine

loam

for a long time. Repot

( = Anoma-

Spotted

every season in Feb. or

theca)

crimson

March. Easily raised

from seed and flower the

following year.

Liber tia formo-

1 2- 1 8 ins.

Chili

Rich

Iris Order. A pretty and

sa

White

May

sandy

uncommon plant.

peat

Nerine corusca

10-12 ins.

S. Africa

Loam

Amaryllis Order. Most

Scarlet

All

and leaf-

beautiful bulbs with large

Fothergilli

,,

Autumn

mould

heads of flowers which

Sarniensis

Crimson

flowering

with

appear before the leaves.

(Guernsey

crushed

(See pp. 62, 63.)

lily)

charcoal

rosea

Rose-

is an

pink

excellent

pudica

White

compost

undulata

Pale

for these

pink

»"

1 64

APPENDIX

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

Soil.

General Remarks.

Ornithogalum

12-15 ins-

Spain

Sandy

Lily Order. Handsome

arabicum

White

Summer

loam

cool greenhouse bulbs.

aureum

6-12 ins.

Cape

and leaf-

Golden

June

mould

yellow

Oxalis Bowei

6-10 ins.

Cape

Sandy

Geranium Order. O. cer-

Deep-

August

light

nua is an excellent basket

rose

loam

plant for sunny positions.

cernua

6 ins.

Madeira

,,

(Bermuda buttercup.)

Lemon

April

enneaphylla

4 ins.

Fuegia

»

White or

June

pale pink

Pancratium

i-i£ft.

S. Europe

Very

Amaryllis Order. Fine

illyricum

White

Summer

sandy

sweet-scented flowers.

maritimum

,,

„

loam

Grow three in a large pot

P. illyricum is the har-

diest.

Richardiaaethio-

1-2 ft.

S. Africa

Rich

Arum Order. When

pica

White

May- June

loam and

brought on for early

leaf-

flowering, arums must be

\

mould

carefully protected from

frost in cold greenhouse

as the leaves are easily

injured. This plant is the

Pig-lily of Cape Colony,

where it will probably be

a lost plant in a few

years !

Roscoea pur-

6 ins.

Himalaya

Sandy

Ginger Order. This plant

purea

Purple

July-Aug.

loam

used to be grown in stove-

(Orchis -

and peat

heat, but has proved to be

like)

hardy in the southern

counties.

Sparaxis ( =

3-4 ft.

S. Africa

Light

Iris Order. Better known

Dierama)

and

sandy

as Sparaxis, but now

upwards

loam

Dierama. Treatment as

pulcherrima

Purple-

Autumn

for Ixias. Very fine

red

plants.

pendula

Lilac

June

Sprekelia

6- 1 2 ins.

Mexico

Sandy

Amaryllis Order. Jaco-

formosissima

Blood red

Mid-

fibrous

baea Lily. Remarkable

summer

loam and

in form and colour.

leaf-

Bulbs can be stored

mould

through the winter.

HALF-HARDY BULBS AND TUBERS

165

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

Soil.

General Remarks.

Tropaeolum azu-

Slender

Chili

Sandy

Geranium Order. A single

reum

twiners

October

peat

tuber in a pot. Elegant

Sky-blue

and

and showy. It is best to

brachyceras

Yellow

Chili

leaf-

re-pot the tubers as soon

June

mould

as the foliage is dead.

tricolorum

Scarlet

Chili

tt

yellow

Apl.-May

and

black

Vallota pur-

1 2 ins.

S. Africa

Good

Amaryllis Order. The

purea

Scarlet

Summer

sandy

well-known Scarboro'

loam

lily. An evergreen bulb,

which must always be

kept growing and dis-

turbed as little as pos-

sible at the root

Veltheimia vi-

1 2- 1 8 ins.

S. Africa

Light

Lily Order. Bright green

ridifolia

Rosy-

Spring

loam

wavy leaves and a hand-

purple

and leaf-

some spike of pendulous

mould

flowers. Some varieties

are better coloured than

others. Easily managed.

Watsonia an-

1-2 ft.

S. Africa

Sandy

Iris Order. These require

gusta

Red

loam

the usual treatment of

var. Ardernei

White

C. Colony

and a

Cape bulbs — to be kept

and others

June

little

dry when at rest. The

peat

white var. is a compara-

tively new plant, and is

very fine.

Zephyranthes

6- 10 ins.

Virginia

Rich

Amaryllis Order. The

Atamasco

White

Early

sandy

Zephyr flowers are all

Summer

loam

pretty, but Z. carinata is

Candida

White

La Plata

,,

remarkably fine, and

September

worth any trouble to

carinata

Rose-

Central

M

succeed with. Several

pink

America

bulbs in a pot.

June

166

LILIES FOR POTS

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

SoU.

General Remarks.

Lilium

Ij-2ft.

Japanese

Sandy

One of the newer lilies,

Alexandra

Pure

hybrid

loam and

having been introduced

white

July-Aug.

leaf-

about ten years. Inter-

mould

mediate between L. au-

ratum andL.longiflorum.

Starts to grow early in

the year. Use deep pots

for mulching stem roots.

auratum

3-4 ft.

Japan

Moist

The well-known Golden

or more

June

sandy

Lily. Mulch the stem-

Ivory-

to

peat and

roots.

white

Sept.

leaf-

and gold

mould

Brownii

2-3 ft.

Japan

Sandy

A fine species, with long

White

July

loam

bell-shaped flowers with

with a

and

and

red anthers. Stem-

purple

Aug.

peat

roots.

line and

stained

purple

outside

candidum

2-4 ft.

S. Europe

Sandy

The Madonna Lily. No

Pure

and

loam and

stem-roots.

white

A. minor

leaf-

May

mould

Catesbaei

1-2 ft.

N. W.

Moist

A small but bright lily

Orange-

America

peat and

with erect bell-shaped

red

Summer

a little

flowers. Quite hardy,

spotted

sandy

but a little difficult to

maroon

loam

grow well.

Lilium davu-

2-3 ft.

Siberia

Rich

Flowers hi upright umbels.

ricum

Orange

July

sandy

flushed

loam

red

LILIES FOR POTS

167

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

SoU.

General Remarks.

elegans ( =

I ft.

Japan

Peat,

There are many hybrid

thunbergia-

Orange-

June

sandy

varieties of this fine

num)

scarlet

and

loam,

dwarf lily of different

July

and leaf-

shades of colour, such as

Vars. :

mould

those named.

alutaceum

Buff

atro-sangui-

Deep red

Stem-roots.

neum

citrinum

Lemon

yellow

Grayi

I £-2 ft.

Roan

Moist

An elegant lily with creep-

Red

Mts. of N.

sandy

ing rhizomes and no

spotted

Carolina

peat and

stem-roots.

purple

Spring

loam

Turn cap.

Krameri

2-3 ft.

Japan

Rather

Difficult, but worth any

Fragrant

Summer

stiff san-

trouble to grow well.

pink

dy loam

Stem-roots.

and peat

longiflorum

1-2 ft.

Japan

Light

White Trumpet Lily. One

Pure

June and

rich

of the most delightful

var. longiflo-

white

July

loam and

and satisfactory. The

rum insulate

sandy

Japanese form is stronger

(said to be

leaf-

and better suited for the

one of the

mould

present purpose than the

most robust

Bermuda-grown L. Har-

forms)

risi. Stem-roots.

Martagon

3-4 ft.

S. Europe

Sandy

A very fine lily for a shady

var. album

Pure

June

loam and

corner of conservatory or

white

leaf-

verandah grouped with

mould

foliage plants and robust

where it is happy. No

stem-roots.

philadelphi-

1 8 ins.

N. Am.

Moist

Leaves in whorls. Flowers

cum

and

July and

sandy

bell-shaped and erect. A

upwards

Aug.

peat

rather delicate lily, but

Orange

very pretty where it

spotted

succeeds. No stem-

roots.

rubellum

12-15 iQS-

Japan

Leaf-

One of the newer lilies.

Rosy-

June

mould

which promises to be a

pink

and

vigorous and very desi-

sandy

rable species. Four to

loam

eight funnel - shaped

flowers on a stem.

i68

APPENDIX

Name.

'Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

SoU.

General Remarks.

speciosum

2-3 ft.

Japan

Rich

Well known as L. lancifo-

vars. Kratzeri

White

July

loam,

lium. A charming species

roseum

Pink

to

peat, and

in all its varieties. Stem-

rubrum

Rose

Sept.

leaf-

roots.

mould

tenuifolium

12-15 ins.

Siberia

Sandy

A distinct and delicate

Scarlet

May

loam

little lily. Easily raised

Turn-cap

and June

and peat

from seed, and should be

constantly renewed. A

specialist's plant.

tigrinum

2-4 ft.

China

Sandy

Tiger-lily — an old garden

superbum

Full

and Japan

loam and

favourite, but extremely

apricot

Autumn

leaf-

desirable from its unu-

spotted

mould

sual shade of deep apricot.

chocolate

The variety named is con-

sidered the best for pots.

Readily increased by leaf-

bulbils. Stem-roots.

umbellatum

Vars.

European

Sandy

The garden form of L.

vary in

Alps

loam and

croceum. There are

height

leaf-

many varieties which are

Orange

mould

very handsome and hardy.

to

Heads of upright bell-

deep red

shaped cups. Stem-

roots.^

( '69 )

HARDY FOLIAGE PLANTS FOR GROUPING

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

SoU.

General Remarks.

Acanthus

Ever-

Cent, and

Ordinary

Acanthus Order. These

latifolius

green

S. Europe

potting

make fine pot plants, and

spinosus

2-3 ft.

,,

soil

may be planted out to

recruit during the sum-

mer and lifted for winter

foliage.

Aralia Sieboldi

1-3 ft.

Japan

Rich

Ivy Order. A useful and

= Fatsia ja-

Ever-

potting

fine shrub either in a

ponica

green

soil

small or large state.

Araucaria

Ever-

More ton

Sandy

Conifers. These two pines

Bidwillii

green

Bay

loam and

are very useful in a small

excelsa

,,

Norfolk I.

leaf-

state, and may be grown

mould

in pots for years. They

can be raised from seed.

Bambusa

2-2$ ft.

China

Good

Grass Order. This is a

tessellata

Large

and Japan

rich

dwarf species, whichmight

leaved

loam

be employed in various

ways, but some of the

taller bamboos should be

tried. They are largely

grown in Italy in pottery.

Centaurea

1-2 ft.

S. Europe

Sandy

Daisy Order. Handsome

ragusina

Silvery

loam

where grey-toned leafage

foliage

is wanted.

Chamaecyparis

Dwarf

Japan

Rich

Conifers. Popularly

obtusa

Ever-

and

known as Retinosporas,

pisifera

green

rather

and valuable for winter

moist

greenery.

loam, but

well

drained

170

APPENDIX

Name.

Height and
Colour.

[Country and
Season under
Glass.

SoU.

General Remarks.

Chamaerops

Dwarf

China

Rich

Palms. The first is now

excelsa

Ever-

and Japan

loam and

known as Trachycarpus

humilis (Har-

green

S. Europe

leaf-

excelsus. These dwarf

dy Fan Palms)

mould

Fan Palms are easily

raised from seed, and

though slow-growing (un-

less pushed on hi heat),

are useful at all stages

and very handsome when

well grown. C. humilis is

the dwarfer of the two,

and may be distinguished

by the spines upon the

leaf-stalks. They require

abundance of water in

summer.

Cupressus

Ever-

China

Light

Conifers. A very beautiful

funebris glau-

green

but rich

and distinct weeping Cy-

ca

with very

loam

press, which in a young

glaucous

state may be grown very

foliage

effectively in a pot.

Rather tender.

Danaea Laurus

Ever-

Portugal

Good

Lily Order. Alexandrian

= Ruscus ra-

green

rich

Laurel. Not often

cemosus

i ft. and

loam

grown as a pot-plant, but

upwards

sometimes succeeds well.

Eucalyptus glo-

Blue

Australia

Rich

Myrtle Order. Seedling

bulus

Gum-tree

loam and

plants quickly grow into

crushed

useful shrubs for the

charcoal

greenhouse where glau-

cous foliage is often of

advantage. E. citriodora

is another species often

grown in small pots for

its fragrant leaves.*

Eugenia Ugni

Ever-

Chili

Loam

Myrtle Order. A pretty

green

and leaf-

shrub at all times, and

White

mould

will fruit in an 8-in. pot.

flowers

The berries, which are

edible, give a delightful

scent to the greenhouse

when ripe.

E. globulua will stand a certain amount of frost, where there is no draught.

HARDY FOLIAGE PLANTS FOR GROUPING

171

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

Soil.

General Remarks.

Euonymus ra-

Dwarf

Japan

Ordinary

Spindle-tree Order. The

dicans varie-

Ever-

potting

var. named roseo-argen-

gatus

green

soil

teis with a tinge of red in

the variegation is the

best form.

Funkia (Plan-

Herba-

Japan

Rich

Lily Order. A flowering

tain Lily)

ceous

Autumn

sandy

plant, but invaluable as

gran di flora

1 2- 1 8 ins.

loam

greenery for associating

White

with other tall growing

flowers

lilies. Rather tender.

sieboldiana

Pale lilac

M

M

Beautiful glaucous foliage

flowers

of a peculiar shade. Quite

hardy.

Hedera. Helix

Climbers

British

Ivy Order. All kinds of

or

mostly

Ivy are invaluable for the

trailers

cold greenhouse, and may

Many varie-

be used in various ways —

ties, both

for screens, hanging-pots,

green and

&c. The smaller varieties

variegated

are best for pots. All can

be struck easily from cut-

tings, but some of the

variegated kinds are

rather tender and root

best under a bell-glass in

shade and moisture.

Miihlenbeckia

Ever-

New

Moist

Buckwheat Order. In a

complexa

green

Zealand

gritty

small state this makes a

climber

loam

pretty basket-plant. May

or

be freely cut, and the

trailer

dark stems with small

with long

Spleen-wort-like leaves

wiry

are very useful in floral

stems

decorations.

Myrtus commu-

Ever-

S. Europe

Sandy

Myrtle Order. Both the

nis

green

Fls. July

loam and

Common and the Box-

Many vars.

bush

leaf-

leaved Myrtles (fls. Sept.)

mould

are good stand-by plants

for cold greenhouse. Sy-

ringe often in summer.

Nandina domes-

Erect

China

Loam

Barberry Order. A hand-

tica

ever-

Red

and

some Bamboo-like plant.

green

fruit

sandy

Young foliage tinged with

3-5 *t.

peat

red.

172

APPENDIX

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

Soil.

General Remarks*

Origanum Dic-

6-9 ins.

Crete

Sandy

Lavender Order. A pretty

tamnus

Grey-

Summer

loam

little plant with grey

green

woolly leaves and hop-

herb

like heads of flower with

pinky-green bracts.

Othonna cheiri-

9 ins.

N. Africa

M

Daisy Order. A semi-suc-

folia

Prostrate

culent perennial with

stems

glaucous foliage.

Yellow

fls.

Phalaris arun-

2-3 ft.

British

Moist

Grass Order. Useful for

dinacea varie-

sandy

foliage with early bulbs.

gata (Ribbon

loam

Several of the annual

Grass)

grasses may be grown in

pots for the same purpose

— e.g., Hordeum iubatum

(Squirrel tail grass), La-

gurus ovatus (Hare's tail

grass), and Briza maxima

(Quaking grass).

Polygonatum

l£-2 ft.

European

Rich

Lily Order. Invaluable

multiflorum

sandy

for arching foliage with

(Solomon's

loam

Spring bulbs.

Seal)

Reineckia car-

Creeping

Japan

Loam

Lily Order. Tufts of

nea variegata

rhizomes

and leaf-

lance-shaped leaves with

mould

cream- white stripes.

Senecio mari-

i-i^ft.

S. France

Sandy

Daisy Order. Better

tima

Silver-

loam

known as Cineraria man-

white

tima. Easily raised from

foliage

seed, but a good variety

should be selected and

increased by cuttings.

mikanoides

Climber

S. Africa

Ordinary

Useful where a quick

(German Ivy

potting

growth is wanted for

soil

trellis or otherwise. Na-

turalised in Cornwall, but

must not be mistaken for

Cape Ivy (S. macrog-

lossus), which is more

tender.

HARDY FOLIAGE PLANTS FOR GROUPING

173

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

Soil.

General Remarks.

Sibthorpia euro-

Minute

British

Moist

Foxglove Order. The

paea variegata

trailer

peat and

green-leaved type is a

loam

rare British plant, car-

petting boggy spots in

Cornwall. The variegated

form is a charming little

trailer, each little leaf

being bordered with white

and succeeds well with

living sphagnum in a

basket.

Veronica cu-

Dwarf

N. Zealand

Moist

Foxglove Order. These

pressoides

shrub

sandy

interesting shrubby Ve-

1 2 ins.

loam and

ronicas somewhat resem-

leaf-

ble certain forms of Coni-

Hectori

1-2 ft.

„

mould

fers. They are often

allowed to starve for want

of water.

( 174 )

FERNS (BRITISH AND FOREIGN)

The soil in which most ferns will flourish is sandy peat and
leaf-mould.

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

Genera Remarks.

Adiantum Ca-
pillus-veneris
var. grande

6- 1 2 ins.

Temp.
Zone

Evergreen. There are many va-
rieties of the Common Maidenhair.
This is a fine sort with very large
leaflets.

pedatum

9-12 ins.

N. Am.

Deciduous. Other Adiantums,
such as A. cuneatum and A. for-

mosum; will succeed perfectly
where frost is excluded, but are

Aspidium acule-
atum, var. pro-
liferum

1-2 ft.

British

only half-hardy.
Prickly-shield Fern. Many beau-
tiful varieties.

falcatum
Lonchitis

12-15 ins.
10-18 ins.

Japan
Temp.

Holly Fern.

zone

Asplenium
Adiantum-ni-

4-12 ins.

British

Black Maidenhair Spleen wort.
" French Fern " of the florist.

grum
bulbiferum

1 2- 1 8 ins.

Australia

A vigorous and useful fern.

or more

Ceterach

3 ins. in
dense tuft

British

Scaly Spleen-wort.

Felix-foemina
var. plumosum
flaccidum

2-3 ft.
Long

H

Australia

Lady Fern. Many very beautiful
forms.
A form of A. bulbiferum.

weeping
fronds

marinum

4-12 ins.

British

Sea Spleen- wort. Grows best in
moist shade, sheltered from

draught.

FERNS (BRITISH AND FOREIGN)

175

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

General Remarks.

Trichomanes

Tufts Of

British

Maidenhair Spleenwort. This and

narrow

A. Ceterach are good for moist

fronds

rock work at the edge of a green-

house pool or fountain.

Blechnum Spi-

9-12 ins.

British

Hard fern. Bog soil kept moist.

cant ( = Lo-

and upw.

Many good forms. Evergreen.

maria)

Cheilanthes fra-

2-4 ins.

S. Europe

Half-hardy. A small but beautiful

grans

fern and sweet-scented.

Cryptogramma

6-10 ins.

N. Temp.

Parsley Fern. Deciduous. Plant

crispa

zone

between stones in pot or pan.

Cystopteris

Bladder Fern. A deciduous species.

bulbifera

N. Am.

Multiplied by numerous small

fragilis

British

dark-green bulblets, which fall and

become new plants. C. fragilis is

also deciduous but very hardy and

elegant. Suitable for small rock-

work.

Davallia cana-

i2-i8ins.

Canaries

Hare's-foot Fern. Deciduous and

riensis

half-hardy.

Doodia aspera

6-12 ins.

Temp.

Evergreen, but half-hardy.

Australia

Nephrodium di-

2-3 ft.

British

Broad Buckler Fern.

latatum

Filix-mas

i-3 ft.

„

Male Buckler Fern.

hispidurn

1 2- 1 8 ins.

N. Zealand

Half-hardy.

Nephrolepis ex-

1-2 ft.

Tropics

This fine fern, though tender, will

altata

succeed with care in a room in

winter. Greenhouse where it can

be kept rather moist in summer.

Onoclea ger-

N. Temp.

Ostrich Fern. These are large-

manica ( =

zone

growing, handsome ferns, belonging

Struthiopteris

but not

to the so-called Flowering Ferns

germanica)

British

like Osmunda. Better for planting

sensibilis

N. Am.

out than for pots.

Onychium ja-

12-15 ins>

China and

A light graceful fern suitable for

ponicum

Japan

pots.

Osmunda cinna-

2-3 ft.

Canada

Flowering Ferns.

momea

claytoniana

1-2 ft.

Himalayas

andN.

America

regalis

2-4 ft.

British

Royal Fern.

Pellaea hastata

6-12 ins.

S. Africa

A pretty half-hardy species.

i76

APPENDIX

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

General Remarks.

Polypodium au-

1-2 ft.

Tender, but does well in a room in

reum

winter.

Dryopteris

6-10 ins.

British

Oak Fern. Deciduous.

Phegopteris

6-9 ins.

»»

Beech Fern. Deciduous.

var. crista-

A fine crested form.

tum

P. vulgare

British

Common Polypody and fine varie-

var. cambri-

9-12 ins.

ties. This fern likes plenty of

cum

moisture both at the root and on

var. elegantis-

»

the fronds.

simum

Pteris cretica,

6-12 ins.

Crete

Brake Ferns — the group to which

var. albo-li-

our common Bracken belongs.

neata

P. cretica and P. serrulata are

scaberula

12-15 ins.

N. Zealand

amongst the best known of our

ordinary greenhouse ferns.

serrulata

9-18 ins.

China

The common Ribbon Fern.

tremula

2 ft. and

Australia

A handsome pale green species.

upwards

Scolopendrium

6- 1 8 ins.

British

Hart's tongue, of which there are

vulgare

many beautiful frilled and crested

varieties.

Trichomanes ra-

4-12 ins.

Ireland

The Killarney Fern. A very fine

dicans

fern, but, like all the Filmy ferns.

succeeds best under a bell-glass or

in a Wardian Case.

Woodsia hyper-

3-6 ins.

Arc.

Small tufted ferns, liking coolness

borea

Europe

and moisture.

ilvensis

3-6 ins.

I. of Elba

obtusa

6-9 ins.

U. S. Am.

Woodwardia ra-

2-3 ft.

A very large handsome fern of

dicans

drooping habit, proliferous at the

tips of the fronds.

177 )

FERN ALLIES

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and

Season under

Glass.

General Remarks.

Equisetum syl-
vaticum

Selaginella den-
ticulata
helvetica

uncinata

1-2 ft.

Trailing

and
moss-like

British

S. Europe

Switzer-
land

China

Wood Horse-tail. A very elegant
plant, too spreading to plant out,
but may be grown in a pot or pan
to sink amongst stones at the edge
of greenhouse pool.

The ordinary " Lycopodium."

A very hardy species, but does not
mat so much. Excellent for
feathering up damp stones.

The blue-tinted Selaginella = S.
caesia. Half-hardy. Cuttings put
in early in autumn will winter well
under a bell-glass, and will make
good plants for the following
season.

FLOWERING SHRUBS WHICH MAY BE GROWN
IN POTS (MISCELLANEOUS)

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

Soil.

General Remarks.

Abelia rupes-

i -3 ft.

China

Sandy

Honeysuckle Order. Flow-

tris

Lilac-

Autumn

peat and

ers in a small state, and

white

loam though not showy, the

pale-tinted flowers with

chestnut-red calices are

very effective. Good for

large basket.

Azalea (Rhodo-

1-2 ft.

China

Moist

Heath Order. The com-

dendron) in-

White

and

sandy

mon Azalea flowers with

dica

and red

Japan

peat

its leaves. The A. mollis

Early

and

section is deciduous and

Spring

loam

the large flowers precede

sinensis =

„

,,

,,

the foliage. Those ordi-

mollis

Orange

Middle

narily known as Ghent

and

season

Azaleas have a good deal

yellow

of the character of the

shades

N. American and Cauca-

Ghent

Pale

Hybrids

sian species (Honeysuckle

pink,

Latest

Azaleas). It is a good

sulphur,

to

plan to plunge Azaleas of

or white

flower

all kinds in the open

ground during the Sum-

mer, and to re-pot in

early Autumn. In flower

according to treatment

from February (the

earlier) to May.

Berberis Dar-

2 ft. or

Chili

Rich

Barberry Order. These

wini

more

April

sandy

answer well in pots.

Orange

loam

Plunge out of doors du-

Ever-

ring Summer and prune

' )

green

back as needed after

flowering.

FLOWERING SHRUBS

179

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

Soil.

General Remarks.

stenophylla

Arching

Hybrid

branches

Feb. Mar.

Bright

yellow

Brugmansia

3-4 ft.

S. Am.

Rich

Night-shade Order. These

sanguinea

Orange

Late

sandy

handsome shrubs may be

suaveolens

3-4 ft.

Summer

loam and

grown in tubs and cut

White

leaf-

down as soon as flowering

mould

is over ; or as standards.

Protect during Winter and

bring into greenhouse as

soon as fear of frost is

over. Few things repay

a little care more fully.

Camellia japo-

From 1 8

Japan

Sandy

Camellia Order. Quite

nica

ins. and

Spring

peat

hardy, but the flowers are

upwards

and

the better for protection

Shades of

loam

from weather. C. reticu-

red to

lata (large growing) is one

white

of the finest.

reticulata

Semi dble

China

Bright

rose

Sasanqua

Dwarf

China

small-fld.

single

Caryopteris Mas-

2 ft. or

China

Sandy

Verbena Order. A late

tacanthus

more

October

flowerer out-of-doors; and

Lavender

rather tender, for which

-blue

reason it is often grown

for the greenhouse in

Autumn.

Cassia corym-

2 ft. and

Buenos

Rich

Broom Order. A hand-

bosa

upwards

Ayres

sandy

some shrub, which will

Yellow

loam and

grow for years and flower

peat

well in a large pot.

Cercis Siliquas-

Tree

S. Europe

Rich

Broom Order. It is not

trum

Purple

May

sandy

generally known that the

or rose

loam

Judas Tree can be easily

raised from seed, and

1

flowers well in a small

i

1

state.

i8o

APPENDIX

Name*

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

Soil General Remarks.

Choisya ternata

2 ft. and

Mexico

Rich

Rue Order. A popular

(Mexican

upwards

Spring

light

shrub. Plunge out of

Orange-flower)

loam

doors after flowering.

Prune when needed after

flowering.

Clematis caly-

Climber

Corsica

Rich

Buttercup Order. The Bale-

cina

ever-

Jan.-

loam

aric Clematis,with its dark

green and

March

and a

bronze-green foliage and

winter

little

pale spotted bell flowers,

flowering

lime

is distinct and pretty if

greenish

well grown and trained.

white

montana

Climber

Himalaya

,,

The well-known Mountain

White

Mar.-Apl.

Clematis may be used in

the same way. The large-

flowered hybrid clema-

tises are now often used

for spring decoration ;

grown in 5 -in. or 6-in.

Cistus lusitani-

i-i^ft.

Portugal

Sandy

pots for the greenhouse.

cus

White

May-

peat and

Cistus Order. A lovely

with

June

loam

little shrub with flowers

crimson

nearly as large as those of

spots

the Gum Cistus, falling

purpureus

2-4 ft.

Levant

,,

but renewed each day.

Purple

June

More tender, but a good

spotted

greenhouse plant, with

Coronilla Erne

3 ft. and

S. Europe

Loam

fragrant leaves.

rus (Scorpion

upwards

Spring

and

Broom Order. A bright

Senna)

Bright

sandy

and beautiful spring flow-

yellow

peat

ering shrub.

glauca

I £-2 ft.

S. Europe

C. glauca is very useful

Sea-green

October

on account of its late

foliage

and

blooming.

and pale

November

yellow

flowers

Cytisus fragran

Yellow

Canary

Sandy

Broom Order. Hardy in

Islands

loam

the southern counties,

filipes

White

Teneriffe

and may be grown in

racemosus

greenhouse protected

from actual frost. C.

filipes is very graceful as

a weeping plant grafted

on laburnum.

FLOWERING SHRUBS

181

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

SoU.

General Remarks.

Deutzia gracilis

1-2 ft.

Japan

Rich

Saxifrage Order. Cut out

White

Mar.-Apl.

sandy

old wood and plunge in

Lemoinei

White

Hybrid

loam

open air as soon as new

and

growth is fairly strong.

Kalmaeflora

pink

Many new and desirable

hybrids have been raised.

DierviUa(=Wei-

2 ft. and

Japan

Good

Honeysuckle Order. A

gela) hortensia

upwards

May

moist

remarkably fine bush in

nivea

Pure

sandy

foliage and flower. Rather

white

loam

tender. The only one o

the Weigelas suitable for

the greenhouse.

Echium calli-

2-3 ft.

Canary

Sandy

Forget-me-not Order. A

thyrsum

Gentian-

Islands

loam and

striking and beautiful

blue

peat

Bugloss.

Fabiana imbri-

1-2 ft.

Chili

Loam

Night-shade Order. This

cata

White

Apl.-May

and

plant is often mistaken

sandy

for a heath, which it

peat

much resembles.

Fuchsia corym-

2-3 ft.

Peru

Rich

Evening Primrose Order.

biflora

Deep

Summer

sandy

A very handsome species,

scarlet

loam

seldom seen now. Large

crimson

and

leaves with red mid-rib

fulgens

i ft.

Mexico

leaf-

and long slender drooping

Orange-

Summer

mould

flowers. F. fulgens is

scarlet

also fine and distinct.

procumbens

Creeping

N. Zealand

The N.Z. species makes a

Flowers

pretty basket-plant when

incon-

well set with rosy- purple

spicuous

fruit. All kinds of fuch-

sias are admirable for

summer and autumn in

the cold greenhouse, be-

cause the leafless plants

can be stored away with-

out difficulty during win-

ter.

Forsythia sus-

Long

China

Rich

Olive Order. This will

pensa

arching

and Japan

loam and

make a charming pot-

branches

Feb.

leaf-

plant for very early

Yellow

mould

spring. After flowering,

the shoots should be cut

back hard, and new

growth encouraged for

the next season.

182

APPENDIX

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

Soil.

General Remarks.

Gillenia trifo-

1-2 ft.

N. Am.

Moist

Rose Order. An elegant

liata

Pink and

June and

sandy

little shrub somewhat like

white

July

peat and

Spiraea.

loam

Hydrangea hor-

1-2 ft.

China

Rich

Saxifrage Order. No spe-

tensia

Pink or

Early

gritty

cific compost has yet been

blue

summer

loam

discovered to give blue

to

flowers without fail.

autumn

Crushed Cornish granite

var. Thomas

Pure

in the soil and sea-air

Hogg

v.'hite

seem to favour their pro-

duction. The white var.

is very good.

Hypericum chi-

8-12 ins.

China

Sandy

St. John's Worts. A pretty

nensis

Yellow

Spring

loam

low-growing, spreading

shrub for a basket. Flow

ers 2 ins. across.

Kerria japonica

2 ft. and

Japan

Good

Rose Order. The single

upwards

Early

sandy

form is very pretty and

YeUow

spring

loam

not very common.

Lonicera frag-

Low

China

Light

Honeysuckle Order. This

rantissima

Ever-

Jan.-

rich

is not showy, but is wel-

green

Feb.

loam

come from its very early

climber

sweet-scented flowers.

Magnolia stel-

i-3 ft.

Japan

Rich

Magnolia Order. A lovely

lata

White

Feb.-Mar.

sandy

species, and the one most

loam and

suitable for pots. Should

leaf-

be plunged in a warm

mould

sheltered position during

summer. M. conspicua is

sometimes used in the

same way for a large con-

servatory.

NeriumOleander

Ever-

Palestine

Moist

Periwinkle Order. The

and varieties

green

and

rich

best varieties of Oleander

3-4 ft-

S. Europe

loam and

both single and double,

Pink,

Late

leaf-

are of continental origin.

white, or

summer

mould

They should be grown in

buff

a sunny open air posi-

tion during early summer

and may stand in a deep

saucer of water. This

should be discontinued

after flowering is over,

when the plants go to

FLOWERING SHRUBS

'83

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

Soil.

General Remarks.

rest and may then be cut

back. Much grown all

over the continent even

by the peasants, who

winter their plants in-

doors in cowsheds or

cellars.

Pernettya mu

Ever-

Straits

Moist

Heath Order. Very effec-

cronata

green

of

sandy

tive when in fruit during

I £-2 ft.

Magellan

peat and

late autumn and winter.

Fls. whitt

leaf-

Many varieties with large

with

mould

berries of various shades

coloured

of pink, red, purple, to

berries

white.

Pieris ( =» An-

2-4 ft.

U. S. A.

Moist

Heath Order. Evergreens

dromeda) flori-

White

Mar.-Apl.

peat

with waxy Arbutus-like

bunda

and

flowers. These do best

japonica

3ft.

Japan

leaf-

planted out during sum-

White

May

mould

mer and lifted and potted

about October.

Primus sinensis

Dwarf

China

Rich

Rose Order. A charming

alba plena

and

March

potting

Plum for early forwarding

slender

soil

under glass. P. triloba

White

does best planted out

rosea plena

Pink

M

against a wall, but, where

triloba fl. pi.

Pink and

China

>t

it cannot be otherwise

white

Mar. Apl.

grown, will succeed with

caro in a pot.

Punica granata

Tall and

Persia

Rich

Loosestrife Order. This,

(Pomegranate)

dwarf

Summer

sandy

though a wall-tree, is

vars.

and

loam

much grown in Germany

Scarlet

autumn

in pots or tubs, and

should be so employed

more frequently in Eng-

land for corridors or

verandahs.

Rhaphiolepis

3ft.

Japan

Sandy

Rose Order. Japanese

japonica

Pure

May

loam and

Hawthorn. A distinct

white and

peat

and desirable shrub.

sweet-

scented

1 84

APPENDIX

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

Soil.

General Remarks.

Rhododendron

3ft.

Siberia

Peat,

Heath Order. These small

dauricum

Purple -

Jan.-Mar.

loam,

flowered early Rhods. are

praecox

Rosy

Hybrid

and

extremely useful for win-

purple

Feb.-Mar.

leaf-

ter and spring, where

racemosum

i ft. and

China

mould

there is only a glass

upwards

April

shelter. B. racemosum

Pink and

is new, with terminal

white

racemes of pink and

white flowers, and is very

distinct.

Spiraea, var.

I £-2 ft.

Hybrid

Rich

Rose Order. Much grown

Houttei

White

April

light

for pots. A desirable

loam

variety for early spring.

Veronica hul-

Ever-

N. Zealand

Good

Foxglove Order. Many of

keana

green

May

moist

the smaller growing N.

1-2 ft.

sandy

Zealand Veronicas make

Lilac

loam

good pot-plants. They

speciosa (many

Shades

N. Zealand

like sun and abundance

varieties)

of purple

Summer

of water.

and

crimson

Viburnum pli-

2-3 ft.

Japan

Rich

Guelder Rose Order. A

catum

White

April

free

fine shrub, and does well

Tinus(Laurus-

l£-2 ft.

S. Europe

moist

in pots. Most desirable

tinus)

White

Dec.-Mar.

loam

for cold house where it

will hot flower outside.

Wistaria sinen-

Climber

China

Ordinary

Broom Order. Very good

sis

Lilac or

April-

potting

grown in standard form

white

June

soil

for early spring flowering.

Zenobia speci-

2 ft. and

Southern

Moist ! Heath Order. A very

osa

upwards

U. S. A.

sandy

beautiful dwarf shrub,

pulverulenta

White

May

peat

with glaucous foliage and

white bell-flowers.

CALlFU

FLOWERING SHRUBS BETTER SUITED FOR
PLANTING OUT IN LARGE GLASS STRUC-
TURES, WITH TEMPERATURE NEVER
LOWER THAN 35° FAHR.

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

Soil.

General Remarks.

Abelia flori-

Ever-

Mexico

Sandy

Honeysuckle Order. Both

bunda

green

March

peat

handsome shrubs, not

6-8 ft.

and

often met with.

Rosy-

loam

purple

triflora

2-4 ft.

Himalaya

,,

Red and

June

white

Abutilon mega-

Slender

Rio

Turfy

Mallow Order. Good

pot amicum

3ft.

Grande

loam

pillar plant. Foliage

Red and

Aut.-

and

mottled yellow = A.

yellow

\Vinter

leaf-

vexillarium.

vitifolium

Robust

Chili

mould

One of the most beautiful

and tall

May

of shrubs, but only suit-

Pale

able where space is ample.

mauve or

white

Acacia dealbata

All yellow

Australia

Turfy

" Mimosa." Exceedingly

(Silver Wattle)

flowered

loam,

fine for large structures.

Racemed

sand,

" Among the hardiest

heads

and

and most easily culti-

leprosa

Globula

,,

leaf-

vated of all greenhouse

heads

mould

plants." — Nicholson's

longifolia

Cylin-

,,

Diet, of Gardening. Prime

drical

immediately after flow-

spikes

ering.

platyptera

Solitary

Swan

%

heads

River

1 86

APPENDIX

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country am
Season unde
Glass.

Soil.

General Remarks.

riceana

Long

Tasmania

and others

weeping

spikes

Anopterus glan

Ever

Tasmania

Sandy

Saxifrage Order. A very

dulosus

green

April-

loam and

handsome shrub with po-

3ft.

May

peat

lished leaves and long

White

Rich

panicles of white flowers.

Buddleia Col

4-6 ft.

Himalaya

light

Strychnine Order. Fine

villei

Pendu-

May-

loam

and very distinct from

lous

June

the well-known B. glo-

crimson

bosa with orange balls.

flowers

Cantua buxi-

Ever-

Peruvian

Turfy

Phlox Order. A very

folia

green

Andes

loam

beautiful shrub when in

3-4 ft.

April

and

flower. Rarely seen.

Rosy-red

leaf-

tubular

mould

flowers

Carpenteria

4-8 ft.

Sierra

Light

Saxifrage Order. One of

California

White

Nevada

rich

the finest of white-flow-

flowers

May-

loam

ered shrubs. May bs

2-3 ins.

June

grown in a pot or tub,

across

but shows its character

much better when planted

out.

Cassia corym-

4-8 ft.

Buenos

Rich

Broom Order. Flowere

bosa

Yellow

Ayres

sandy

profusely with fine heads

Summer

oam and

of bloom.

peat

Ceanothus azu-

2-4 ft.

Mexico

Light

Buckthorn Order. " Gloire

reus

Pale blue

Apl.-May

rich

de Versailles " is one of

loam

the best, but there are

other fine varieties which

vary from blue to rose-

colour.

Chimonanthus

3 ft. and

Japan

Turfy

Allspice Order. Flowers

fragrans gran-

upwards

Jan.

loam

on leafless branches at

difloms (Win-

Yellow

to

and

Midwinter. Generally

ter Sweet)

and

March

leaf-

trained against a wall,

brown

mould

but that is quite un-

Very

necessary. Prune after

sweet-

flowering.

scented

FLOWERING SHRUBS FOR PLANTING OUT

187

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

Soil.

General Remarks.

Clethra arborea

6 ft. and

Madeira

Loam

Heath Order. Few green-

upwards

July-Aug.

and

house shrubs are more

White

sandy

beautiful.

peat

Clianthus puni

3ft.

N. Zealand

Loam

Broom Order. A good

ceus (Glory

Scarlet

May

and

pillar or wall plant. Sub-

Pea)

sandy

ject to red spider, and

leaf-

requires free syringing.

mould

C. Dampieri grafted on

with

this or on Colutea arbo-

broken

rescens makes a fine

charcoal

basket, as grown at

Kew.

Daphne Dau-

Ever-

Hybrid

Sandy

Mezereon Order. A good

phini

green

Spring

loam

hybrid form, and in flower

3 ft. and

and

for a long time.

upwards

leaf-

Purple

mould

' .,

Genkwa

Deciduous

Japan

>t

This species flowers before

2-3 ft.

Mar.-Apl.

the leaves appear. Both

Lilac

are fragrant.

Desfontainea

Ever-

Chili

Light

Strychnine Order. Very

spinosa

green

August

loam

like a holly in leafage.

3ft.

and

Flowers £-in. in length.

Scarlet

peat

This also succeeds in a

and

pot, and is good and dis-

yellow

tinct.

tubular

flowers

Desmodium

5 ft. and

N. China

Good

Broom Order. Prune to

penduliflorum

upwards

Autumn

rich

ground level after flower-

Deep red,

loam

ering.

purple,

or white

Fremontia cali-

4 ft. and

Sierra

Sandy

Mallow Older. A fine de-

fornica

upwards

Nevada

loam

ciduous shrub with leaves

Bright

Apl.-May

somewhat resembling the

yellow

Fig. The flowers owe

their colour to the calyx

and not to their petals.

i88

APPENDIX

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

SoU.

General Remarks.

Grevillea ros-

3 ft. and

Australia

Sandy

Protea Order. The first

marinifolia

upwards

June

peat and

is hardy in the S. of Eng-

Red

loam

land. G. thelemanniana

theleman-

i ft. and

Australia

is a remarkably pretty

niana

upwards

Spring

shrub with foliage like

Bright

southernwood, and gem-

red and

like flowers. Half-hardy.

red and

yellow

Hoheria popul-

6-10 ft.

N. Zealand

Turfy

Mallow Order. As yet but

nea

White

Autumn

loam and

little known, but likely to

leaf-

prove valuable as an au-

mould

tumn flowering shrub in

the cold greenhouse.

Kalmia latifolia

3 ft. and

N. Am.

Moist

Heath Order. A rhodo-

upwards

April and

sandy

dendron house would also

Pink and

May

peat

suit these beautiful

white

shrubs.

Climber

Lapageria alba

Chili

Fibrous

Lily Order. Lapagerias of

rosea

Late

peat,

either variety will suc-

summer

loam,

ceed sometimes in shady

and

and

positions which are un-

autumn

charcoal

suitable for other plants.

A narrow restricted root-

run suits them best, and

they answer well trained

over a corridor. They re-

quire plenty of water

when growing and fre-

quent syringing, as well

as protection from slugs

for the young shoots.

Difficult to establish, but

admirably well suited to

the cold greenhouse.

Lonicera sem

Ever-

N. Am.

Rich

Honeysuckle Order. The

pervirens

green

May-

light

Trumpet Honeysuckle. A

climber

June

loam

very fine climber. Half-

Scarlet

hardy.

and

yellow

FLOWERING SHRUBS FOR PLANTING OUT

189

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

Soil.

General Remarks.

Standishii

Deciduous

China

Rich

L. Standishii is nearly

shrub

Feb.-

light

allied to L. fragrantissima,

4-6 ft.

March

loam

but flowers before the fo-

White

liage appears. Good for

Fragrant

winter flowering.

Mitraria cocci-

Dwarf

Chili

Sandy

Gloxina Order. A pretty

nea

Ever-

July-

peat

and uncommon shrub,

green

October

and

with somewhat the habit

with

loam

of a fuchsia. The shoots

climbing

should be pinched now

habit

and then to induce bushy

Scarlet

growth, and cut back

after flowering.

Olearia macro

2 ft. and

N. Zealand

Rich

Daisy Order. One of the

donta

upwards

June-

loam and

" Daisy- trees " of N. Zea-

White

July

leaf-

land, and a fine species.

daisy-like

mould

fls. in

heads

Plumbago ca-

2 ft. or

C. of

Fibrous

Thrift Order. Rather ten-

pensis

more, of

G. Hope

loam and

der, but succeeds in a

climbing

Summer

sand

cold greenhouse when cut

habit

back hard after flowering

Pale blue

and kept rather dry in

temperature not lower

than 35° Fahr.

Poinciana Gil-

Ever-

S. Am.

Sandy

Broom Order. A tropical

liesii ( = Caesal-

green

Early

peat and

looking shrub, and very

pinia)

6-12 ft.

summer

loam

fine where there is ample

Yellow

space. Hardy in I. of

with red

Wight.

stamens

Rhododendron

Light

Heath Order. For large

ciliatum anc

sandy

unheated glass structures

many Hima-

peat or

of the Winter Garden

layan species

sandy

order, Himalayan Rho-

and hybrids

loam and

dodendrons and their nu-

leaf-

merous hybrids are mag-

mould

nificent, flowering earlier

No lime

than the same out of

doors.

Sophora tetrap

6-8 ft.

N. Zealand

Good

Broom Order. The N.Z.

tera ( = Ed

Yellow

Spring

sandy

Laburnum. A very fine

wardsia gran

flowers

loam

shrub for the winter

diflora)

1-2 ins.

garden.

long

190

APPENDIX

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

Soil.

General Remarks.

Vaccinium ser-

Dwarf

Himalaya

Sandy

Cranberry Order. A very

pens

evergreen

April-

peat or

distinct and beautiful

with

May

loam

shrub with a tuberous

arching

No lime

root-stock and graceful

branches

habit.

Scarlet

Vitis hetero-

Deciduous

China

Rich

Vine Order. The Hop-

phylla humuli-

climber

and

sandy

leaved Vine is sometimes

folia

with

Japan

loam

called the Blue-berried

*var. tricolor

turquoise

Vine. There is a good varie-

-blue

gated form.* Though

fruit

fairly hardy, it often fails

to fruit out of doors, and

so misses a main feature

of its beauty.

HARD-WOODED PLANTS

GENERAL CULTURAL HINTS. — Pot very firmly in clean pots. Winter
in a dry temperature, never falling below 35° Fahr. Give plenty
of air at all times by day (but without draughts), except in severe
weather. After flowering cut back freely, and when growth is
fairly re-established repot the plant if required into one size larger.
Two or three weeks later, most kinds will be benefited by being
plunged in the open air for a couple of months. Water carefully
at all times. Return to the greenhouse before there is any fear
of frost to perfect growth and set flower buds.

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

Soil.

General Remarks.

Acacia armata

Ever-

Australia

Peat

Broom Order. Amongst

green

March

or

the most easy to grow of

1 8 ins.

and

loam

hard-wooded plants, and

and upw.

April

with

will flower in either small

Globular

sharp

or large pots.

yellow

sand

heads

Drummondi

Pale

Swan

lemon

River

cylindrical

April

heads

juniperina

Yellow

Tasmania

May

Bauera rubi-

Ever-

N. S.

Sandy

Saxifrage Order. A pretty

oides

green

Wales

peat and

little shrub with saucer-

1-2 ft.

Mar.-Apl.

loam

shaped flowers continu-

Pink

ing for some weeks.

Young shoots root easily

under bell-glass.

I92

APPENDIX

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

Soil.

General Remarks.

Boronia hetero-

2 ft. and

Australia

Sandy

Rue Order. Not difficult

phylla

upwards

March

peat

to manage, being free

Rosy-

rooters and fairly quick

purple

growers. Lasting a long

megastigma

i ft.

Australia

,,

time in flower. The

Purplish-

May

second very fragrant.

brown

and

yellow

Camellia thei-

Ever-

China

Sandy

Camellia Order. The Tea

fera

green

Nov. -Mar.

loam and

plant, pretty and in-

2 it.

peat

teresting. Not generally

White

known to be a species of

Camellia.

Chorizema cor

Ever-

Australia

t ibrous

Broom Order. Holly-like

datum

green

April

sandy

leaves and pea-flowers.

Loose

peat

Needs care in potting and

slender

watering. C. Lowi of

habit

better habit with brighter

Red and

coloured flowers.

yellow

Lowi

M

t)

Correa cardi-

Ever-

Australia

Sandy

Rue Order. Beautiful

nalis

green

Spring

peat

shrubs with drooping tu-

2-3 ft.

or

bular flowers. C. bicolor

Bright

loam

and C. magnifica are

scarlet

merely vars. of C. spe-

speciosa and

Crimson

,,

,,

ciosa.

varieties

to white

Crowea angusti-

Ever-

West

Peat

Rue Order. Easy to

folia

green

Australia

and

manage, but flower best

1-2 ft.

Spring

loam

when grafted on Correa.

Red

Saligna major

Pink

)(

>t

Daphne indica

Ever-

China

Sandy

Mezereon Order. Well-

(=D. odora)

green

Spring

fibrous

known, but not often

i-3 ft.

peat

well grown. Own root

Purple or

and

plants are better than

white

charcoal

grafted ones. Slow grow

Very

ing, and do best in small

fragrant

pots according to size of

plant, and are very im-

patient of over- watering.

Cuttings in August under

bell-glass.

HARD-WOODED PLANTS

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

Soil.

General Remarks.

Darwinia mac-

Ever-

Australia

Good

Myrtle Order. The " Tu-

rostegia

green

May-

fibrous

lip-Myrtle " is so fine that

1-2 ft.

June

peat

it is included in this list

Bell-

and

though somewhat more

shaped

sand

difficult to grow than

fls.

some others of its class.

Cream-

A healthy plant will begin

white

to flower from 6 ins. high.

streaked

The buds for the next

red

season are formed whilst

it is still in bloom and

open-air summer treat-

ment does not suit it. A

good plant for cold green-

house, as it resents heat.

Desfontainea

Ever-

Peru

Sandy

Strychnine Order. This

spinosa

green

August

loam

fine shrub should be

2-3 ft.

Especially

grown as much as possible

Tubular

averse

in the open air. It sel-

fls.

to lime

dom flowers well two fol-

Scarlet

lowing seasons, therefore

and

the alternate system suits

yellow

it best.

Epacris hyacin-

Ever-

Australia

Good

Epacris Order. These

thina

green

Early

fibrous

lovely plants are not

1-2 ft.

Spring

sandy

hard to grow, but are

White

peat

generally over-watered.

miniata, &c.

Red,

M

A large number of garden

tipped

varieties to choose from.

white

Pure white to deep rose.

Erica caven-

Ever-

Cape

Sandy

Heath Order. Air-loving

dishiana

green

(hybrid)

peat

plants, but will not en-

Yellow

May-July

dure draught or over-

hyemalis

Pale pink

Winter

much damp. Both these

and

and Epacris require

spring

special conditions to grow

propendens

Lilac

May-June

them well. A cold frame

and many

during summer suits

others

them well.

Eriostemon

Ever-

Australia

Sandy

Rue Order. A very pretty

buxifolius

green

Mar.-June

fibrous

shrub which will flower

i-3 ft.

peat

profuselv in a small pot.

White

It should stand out of

and pink

doors from July to the

end of September.
N

i94

APPENDIX

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

SoU.

General Remarks.

Hovea celsia

Ever-

Australia

Sandy

Broom Order. The habit

green

April-

fibrous

of this pretty plant

Blue-

June

peat

is somewhat straggling,

purple

therefore it must be kept

pinched in and trained

from the first. It may

also be grown as a stan-

dard.

Leschenaultia

Ever-

Australia

Sandy

Goodenovia Order. Very

biloba major

green

June-Aug.

fibrous

careful potting is neces-

i ft.

peat

sary as the roots are par-

Bright

ticularly susceptible of

blue

injury. They do not take

formosa

i ft.

June-Sept.

,,

kindly to open-air treat-

Scarlet

ment, and also like rather

more warmth (45°) than

any other hard-wooded

subjects named. Remark-

ably fine plants.

Pimelia ferru-

Ever-

Australia

Sandy

Mezereon Order. This

ginea (= P.

green

May

loam

likes more water both at

decussata)

1-2 ft.

the roots and overhead

Pink

than many Australian

plants.

Poly gala dal-

Ever-

S. Africa

Sandy

Milk-wort Order. Easy to

maisiana

green

April-

fibrous

manage and a good plant

i-3 ft.

May

peat or

to begin on in this class.

Purple

loam

Cut well back after flow-

ering.

Sparmannia af-

Ever-

S. Africa

Turfy

Lime-tree Order. African

ricana

gre n

May

loam

Hemp. An easily grown

i ft. and

and

and rather popular soft-

upwards

sand

leaved shrub which flow-

White

ers at a small stage, but

with

will grow into a tree.

crimson

stamens

Trachelosper-

Ever-

China

Rich

Periwinkle Order. This

mum jasmin-

green

Summer

sandy

does well as a trained pot

oides ( = Rhyn-

semi-

loam

specimen and is easily

chospermum)

twining

and

managed, lasting some

Clusters

peat

time in bloom and very

of white

sweet-scented.

fit.

( '95 )

MISCELLANEOUS PLANTS FOR POT CULTURE

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

Soil.

General Remarks.

Calceolaria vio-

2ft.

Chili

Rich

Foxglove Order. A very

lacea

Pale

June-

sandy

distinct species with hel-

mauve

July

loam and

met-shaped flowers.

Hardy

leaf-

mould

Celsia Arcturus

1-2 ft.

Crete

Sandy

Foxglove Order. The large

Yellow

May-

loam

Mullein-like flowers with

H. -hardy

Sept.

purple stamens set on

wiry stems are always

admired.

Cytisus frag-

li-2 ft.

Canary Is.

Sandy

Broom Order. Does per-

raus (= race-

Yellow

Spring

fibrous

fectly well in a cold green-

mosus)

H. -hardy

loam

house.

Diplacus gluti-

I J-2 ft.

Cali-

Sandy

Foxglove Order. Shrubby

nosus

Orange-

fornia

loam

Mimulus. Showy ever-

buff

May-

and

green slender shrubs,

coccineus

Crimson

July

peat

very free-flowering and

H. -hardy

liking partial shade.

Erythrina Cris-

Herba-

Brazil

Sandy

Broom Order. Coral Tree.

ta-galli

ceous

July

loam

Almost hardy in the S.

stems

and

counties. The annual

r •

Fls. deep

peat

stems have to be cut

scarlet

down in autumn and the

roots stored for winter.

.

Repot when the stems are

3-4 ins. high, taking great

care not to injure the

growing shoots.

Fabiana imbri-

Ever-

Chili

Ordinary

Nightshade Order. An old

. cata

green

May

potting

favourite, not so often

i^ ft. and

soil

grown now as formerly

upwards

for the greenhouse, but

White

free flowering and useful.

tubular

Hardy in south counties.

lpw"'s^s.

flowers

196

APPENDIX

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

Soil.

General Remarks.

Fuchsias

Deciduous

Garden

Rich

Evening Primrose Order.

(Named vars.)

1-4 ft.

hybrids

sandy

Fuchsias are particularly

Hardy

Summer

Loam and

well suited for the un-

and

leaf-

heated greenhouse in

autumn

mould

summer from the ease

with which they can be

kept through the winter.

They may be cut down

almost to the pot level

or only trimmed and al-

lowed to retain their

woody growth to make

large specimens year

after year. In either case

they can be stored safely

in a cellar or even in an

. . V • '

outhouse.

Hydrangea hor-

i-3 ft.

China

Loam

Saxifrage Order. Decora-

tensia

Pink or

April-

and

tive and easily managed.

blue

Sept.

decayed

They are particularly use-

var. Thomas

Pure

Garden

manure

ful as tub plants for ve-

Hogg

white

var. good

in

randah, terrace, or cor-

paniculata

Cream-

equal

ridor, and succeed in

grandiflora

white

parts

shade.

Hardy

Hypericum chi-

9-12 ins.

China

Rich

St. John's Wort Order. A

nense

Bright

Summer

sandy

handsome evergreen bas-

yellow

loam

ket-plant, with flowers

H. -hardy

nearly as large as the

dwarf species known pop-

ularly as the " Rose of

Sharon."

Maurandya bar-

Slender

Mexico

Good

Foxglove Order. Easily

clayana

twiner

Summer

sandy

grown from seed on cut-

Purple or

loam

tings, and useful for a

white

greenhouse trellis. Free-

H. -hardy

flowering and showy.

Rubus rosaefo-

i-ii ft.

Himalayas

Sandy

Rose Order. A pretty and

lius fl. pi.

White

August

loam and

distinct Bramble like a

H.-hardy

leaf-

miniature rose.

mould

Swainsonia ga-

i ft. and

Australia

Sandy

Broom Order. A charm-

legifolia alba

upwards

July

loam and

ing Pea-flower, now very

White

peat

generally grown.

H.-hardy

MISCELLANEOUS PLANTS FOR POT CULTURE 197

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

Soil.

General Remarks.

Veronica An-
dersoni

I-I^ft.
Bluish-
violet
or white

Garden
hybrid
Summer
and

Good
sandy
loam

Foxglove Order. The
variegated form of V.
Andersoni is very good.
Several of the N. Zealand

H.-hardy

Autumn

shrubby veronicas make
good pot-plants.

SOME HARDY PERENNIALS FOR SPRING
FLOWERING UNDER GLASS

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

Soil.

General Remarks.

Aquilegia chry-

2ft.

Rocky

Good

Buttercup Order. Pains

santha

Pale

Mts.

loam

should be taken to get the

yellow

May

and

true species of these fine

coerulea

9-15 ins.

Rocky

leaf-

Columbines which are

Pale blue

Mts.

mould

best raised from seed in

and

April

the first instance. None

white

of the numberless hy-

glandulosa

8-12 ir .

Siberia

lt

brids are so beautiful as

Dark

April

the pure species, good as

blue and

they are. No greenhouse

white

plant can be more ad-

mirable than these in

early spring when well

grown.

Astilbe chinen-

l|-2 ft.

China

Ordinary

Saxifrage Order. Of the

sis

White

March

potting

same character, though

and April

soil

very distinct from the

japonica

i ft.

Japan

well

second, which is the fa-

White

April and

enriched

miliar Spiroea japonica,

May

and a finer plant.

Campanula per-

1-2 ft.

Europe

Ordinary

Hare-bell Order. (See

sicifolia alba

White

potting

Chap. XIV.) Experi-

soil

ments in early spring

flowe '.ng might be tried

with other species.

Cheiranthus

1-2 ft.

Madeira

Good

Wall-flower Order. A very

mutabilis

Cream,

April

sandy

handsome but rather ten-

changing

and May

loam

der wall-flower. It should

to purple

be grown generously into

a large plant, but it is

safer to put in cuttings

every season for fresh

stock.

SOME HARDY PERENNIALS

199

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

Soil.

General Remarks.

Convolvulus al-

Slender

S. Europe

Rich

Bindweed Order. The sil-

thaeoides

twiner

Spring

sandy

very foliage alone is very

Pink

loam and

beautiful for a trellis or

leaf-

screen, and it flowers

mould

freely. Hardy herba-

ceous.

Dicentra spec-

1-2 ft.

Japan

Rich

Fumitory Order. An old

tabilis ( = Die-

Rose-red

Spring

loam

favourite and good pot-

lytra)

plant. Put out in reserve

border during summer.

Doronicum cau-

6-12 ins.

Caucasus

Ordinary

Daisy Order. This little

casicum

Yellow

Feb. -Mar.

potting

Doronicum is welcome

soil

under glass in Feb. It

should be grown in the

reserve border and potted

in late autumn. The tall

D. excelsum is neithei

so early nor so satisfac-

tory.

Fragaria indica

Trailer

India

Ordinary

Rose Order. A pretty

Golden-

May

potting

little basket-plant. The

yellow

soil

red berries are ornamen-

H.-hardy

tal, not edible.

Francoa ramosa

2 ft. and

Chili

Light

Saxifrage Order. Popu-

upwards

May

loam and

larly known as the " Mai-

White

leaf-

dens' Wreath" from its

H.-hardy

mould

long arching stems of

pure white flowers.

Helleborus ni-

6-12 his.

Cent.

Good

Buttercup Order. Christ-

ger

Pure

Europe

rich

mas Rose. (See Chap.

white

and

loam

XIV.)

A. Minor

Jan.-Feb.

var. maximus

Pink

Nov.-

This var. is much earlier

outside,

Jan.

than the type.

white

within

Heuchera san-

9-18 ins.

Mexico

Rich

Saxifrage Order. A very

guinea

Carmine-

May-

loam and

effective pot-plant which

scarlet

June

leaf-

responds to generous

H.-hardy

mould

treatment. It has lately

been taken in hand by

experts, and fine hybrids

are resulting from the

crosses.

20O

APPENDIX

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

Soil.

General Remarks.

Iberis correae-

Hardy

Garden

Ordinary

Wall-flower Order. The

folia

Ever-

hybrid

potting

typical form of I. gibral-

green

April

soil

taria which is usually

12 ins.

and May

grown is not so compact

Long

in habit as I. g. hybrids,

heads of

an improved variety.

white fls.

gibraltarica

1 2 ins.

Gibraltar

Pale lilac

Mar. -May

H.-hardy

Lathyrus ver-

12 ins.

Europe

Ordinary

Broom Order. Flowers

nus ( = Orobus

Purple

March

potting

very early under glass.

vernus)

or white

soil

Should be planted in re-

Hardy

serve border after flower-

ing and re-potted in

September or October.

Linum arbo-

i-i^ft.

Crete

Sandy

Flax Order. A pretty

reum

Yellow

Feb. and

loam

shrubby perennial which

March

and

will flower early under

narbonense

i-iift.

S. Europe

leaf-

glass. L. narbonense is

Bright

April

mould

of very different habit,

blue

and a lovely plant if the

right species is obtained,

but L. perenne is often

substituted for it.

Mimulus macu-

8-12 ins.

Garden

Rich

Foxglove Order. Hybrids

losus

Yellow

forms

loam and

of M. cupreus (Chili).

and

Spring

leaf-

Flower quickly from seed

brown

mould

but the creeping under-

ground stems are peren-

nial.

moschatus

2-3 ins.

N. W.

Harrison's is the largest

(Musk)

Yellow

America

flowered variety of the

Summer

Common Musk.

Myosotidium

i-ijft.

Chatham

Sandy

Forget-me-not Order. This

nobile (New

Rich blue

Island

peat and

fine plant is unfortunately

Zealand For-

H.-hardy

Apl.-May

leaf-

a little difficult to grow.

get-me-not)

mould

It dislikes root disturb-

ance, and does best in a

deep pan in a cool corner

of a sheltered frame,

carefully watered through

the summer and brought

into the greenhouse in the

SOME HARDY PERENNIALS

2OI

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

Soil.

General Remarks.

autumn. Seedlings will

not flower before eigh-

teen months. To flower

it well is an achievement

worth trying for.

Megasea ( =

Ever-

Siberia

Ordinary

Saxifrage Order. Large

Saxifraga)

green

Mar.-Apl.

potting

thick - leaved section,

cordifolia

i ft.

soil

making pretty pot-plants

Rose-

for early spring. The twd

pink

last are half-hardy.

ligulata var.

Deciduous

Nepaul

M

ciliata

i ft.

Feb. -Mar.

Bluish-

white

Stracheyi

4-8 ins.

Himalayas

It

Pink or

April

white

Papaver nudi-

9-18 ins.

Iceland

Sandy

Poppy Order. Seed sown

caule

Orange,

loam

in August or September

yellow,

and potted off singly will

or white

flower early under glass.

Iceland poppies are pe-

rennial though often

treated as annuals.

Primula acaulis

3-4 ins.

British

Loam

Primrose Order. Hybrid

Crimson

(garden

and

forms raised early in

to

forms)

leaf-

spring will be amongst

white

Feb. -Mar.

mould

the earliest flowers of the

auricula

3-6 ins.

European

moist

following winter under

Yellow,

Alps

and

glass, and look very well

purple,

Mar.-

cool

grown in baskets or pans

or claret

April

surfaced with moss. The

Sieboldii

8- 1 2 ins.

Japan

Sandy

large-flowered Polyan-

Rose and

April-

loam and

thus-primroses should not

lavender

May

leaf-

be overlooked for this

to pure

mould

purpose. The Alpine

white

section of Auricula will

also make a good display,

giving rich colours set off

by the mealy foliage. It

is important to get good

strains of seed in all

classes. The garden

forms of P. sieboldii are

an improvement on the

type.

202

APPENDIX

Name.

Height anu
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

Sou.

General Remarks.

Ranunculus cor-

2-3 ft.

Teneriffe

Moist

Buttercup Order. A giant

tusaefolius

Bright

April

rich

Buttercup and handsome

yellow

and May

loam

when generously grown.

Trollias asia-

i-i£ft.

N. Asia

Moist

Buttercup Order. Globe

ticus

Orange

Mar.-

loam and

flowers, though scarcely

europoeus

i ft.

May

leaf-

so vigorous in pots as in

var. napellifo-

Yellow

mould

a bog-bed out of doors,

lius

are still valuable addi-

tions to a cold house in

early spring.

Viola tricolor

6 ins.

Garden

Rich

Violet Order. Pansies

(Pansies)

Various

hyrbids

sandy

used formerly to be more

Spring

loam and

largely grown in pots

and

leaf-

than now, and where

summer

mould

there is no possibility of

keeping out frost they

are by no means to be

despised as greenhouse

plants. By taking cut-

tings of special sorts or

odorata fl. pi.

4-6 inr

sowing a good strain of

Marie Louise

Mauve

seed in July, pricking out

Conte Brazza

White

in boxes or in a reserve

bed in the open and pot-

ting early in December,

they can be brought into

flower under glass in early

spring, and will give a

great deal of variety and

rich colouring for a con-

siderable time. They will

be found especially suit-

able for a semi-shaded

aspect which is not very

favourable to less hardy

plants. A few pots of

sweet violets should never

be left out in any green-

house.

AUTUMN-FLOWERING PERENNIALS

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

SoU.

General Remarks.

Amphicome

Herba-

Himalayas

Sandy

Bignonia Order. A very

Emodi

ceous

Aug.-

loam and

beautiful perennial but

i-i£ft.

October

leaf-

little known, and a valu-

Fls.

mould

able addition to cold green-

tubular

house plants. It may be

Rose

seen in the Cape House at

H.-hardy

Kew in its season, which

seems to vary under cul-

tivation as it was in

flower there in April

1902.

Anemone japo-

2-3 ft.

Japan

Loam

Buttercup Order. These

nica Honorine

White

Aug. and

and leaf-

are very good for small

Jobert

Sept.

mould

tubs. They require a

good deal of root room,

but if treated liberally

var. elegans

Pale pink

tr

with a good top dressing

of fresh soil in spring and

copious supplies of water

in hot weather, the plants

may be left undisturbed

for two or even three

years and are capital

additions to groups for

porch, verandah, or cor-

ridor. They may be

retarded by dis-budding

as soon as the ^arliest

flowers begin to show.

204

APPENDIX

»*.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

j Soil.

General Remarks.

Arctotis aspera

Shrubby

Cape

Sandy

Daisy Order. Both va-

var. arbores-

i-ijft.

July

loam

rieties are remarkably

cens

Stems

and

fine half-hardy plants —

spreading

October

leaf-

the colour of the flowers

and

mould

being the main difference.

procum-

They require to be kept

bent

safe from frost and rather

Fls.

dry at the roots, but can

cream-

be managed successfully

white

in a temperature of 35°

with pink

minimum. Large grow-

reverse

ing, and not suitable

var. aureola

i-i^ft.

where space is limited.

Bright

orange

Aster grandi-

2-3 ft.

N. Am.

Ordinary

Daisy Order. Good forms

florus

Purple

Nov.-

potting

of Michaelmas Daisies

and others

various

Dec.

soil

make very effective pot-

plants — a fact not gene-

rally realised.

Calceolaria alba

I*-2 ft.

Chili

Sandy

Foxglove Order. This

White

Aug.-

peat

charming species is most

H.-hardy

Sept.

and

desirable for early and

loam

late autumn. It can be

raised from seed or cut-

tings. Old plants may be

cut down and stored

safely from frost and will

break again from the

base in spring. The same

may be said of C. am-

amplexicaulis

Herba-

Peru

plexicaulis, an old species

ceous

Late

with soft pale-green stem-

Lax

summer

clasping leaves, not so

growth

and

much in fashion now as

Fls.

autumn

it might be. The last

lemon-

might easily be mistaken

yellow

for a fuchsia when not in

H.-hardy

flower.

fuchsiaefolia

2-3 ft.

Peru

Fls.

Autumn

bright

yellow

H.-hardy

AUTUMN-FLOWERING PERENNIALS

205

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

Soil.

General Remarks.

Campanula Vi-

1-2 ft.

Azores

Sandy

Hare-bell Order. A dis-

dali

Foliage

August

loam

tinct and pretty plant if

semi-

and

well grown. Of shrubby

succulent

leaf-

character.

Fls. waxy

mould

white

H.-hardy

Chrysanthe-

li-2 ft.

Canary

Rich

Daisy Order. Paris Daisy

mum frutesceus

White

Islands

sandy

or Yellow and White

var. Etoile d'Or

sulphur

Summer

loam

Marguerites.

H.-hardy

and

Autumn

Coleus thyrsoi-

2-3 ft.

E. Africa

Sandy

Lavender Order. This new

deus

Spikes of

at high

loam

Coleus, which has much

deep-blue

elevations

the habit of a Salvia, is as

flowers

Nov.-

yet untried for the un-

H.-hardy

Dec.

heated greenhouse, but is

so handsome that it is

mentioned here, as it

grows at an altitude of

6000-7000 ft. and may

probably become accli-

mated.

Jacobinia mag-

2ft.

Brazil

Sandy

Acanthus Order. This

nifica carnea

Pink

Aug.-

loam and

species has been grown

H.-hardy

Sept.

leaf-

successfully in a green-

mould

house just protected from

frost, and when well

pinched back to promote

bushy growth is a most

decorative plant. The

splendid /. chrysoste-

phana (Golden Crowned),

which is far finer, would

be well worth trying.

Moschosma ri

2-3 ft.

S. Africa

Sandy

Lavender Order. A new

parium

Branch-

Late

loam

and useful plant from its

ing head

autumn

late blooming, though not

of small

particularly showy.

white fls.

H.-hardy

206

APPENDIX

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

Soil.

General Remarks.

Nicotiana affinis

2ft.

Brazil

Moist

Nightshade Order. Well

White

Summer

rich

known and a true peren-

and

loam and

nial, but more often

autumn

leaf-

treated as an annual.

mould

Flowers well in a 6-in. pot

and is very useful for the

greenhouse in autumn.

N. sylvestris, a newer but

very similar plant of

more vigorous growth,

has the advantage of

keeping its flowers open

by day.

Nierembergia

Shrubby

Chili

Rich

Nightshade Order. Pretty

frutescens

i-i£ft.

Early

sandy

and free-flowering. N.

Fls. blue

autumn

loam

gracilis is less hardy than

shaded

the first, but is a good

to white

greenhouse plant.

gracilis

6-12 ins.

Buenos

»>

Fls. white

Ayres

and

purple

H.-hardy

Petunia

i-i£ft.

Garden

Rich

Nightshade Order. The

Fls. from

hybrids

sandy

double forms make very

purple

Summer

loam

showy pot-plants, and

to white

and

should be grown always

autumn

under glass, as they do

not succeed with open-

air treatment.

Physalis Fran-

cheti

1-2 ft.

Japan

Sandy

Nightshade Order. A finer

Calyces

No v.-

loam and

and more vigorous species

Orange-

Dec.

leaf-

than the old Winter

scarlet

mould

Cherry (P. Alkekengi),

and very ornamental as

a pot-plant in autumn,

grown in bushy form.

Statice Holfordi

i ft.

Garden

Turfy

Thrift Order. Well-known

Fls. blue

hybrids

loam

species. Th^ earliest

profusa

i^ft.

Autumn

and

flower-stems may be

Fls.

sand

pinched if the plants are

purple

inclined to flower too

and white

soon.

H.-hardy

AUTUMN-FLOWERING PERENNIALS

207

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

Soil.

General Remarks.

Senecio pulcher

Herba-

Uruguay

Moist

Daisy Order. Several

ceous

2-2i ft.

Sept.-

sandy
loam

plants should be arranged
in a good group with a

Red-

background of foliage to

purple

give the best effect. Root

cuttings strike freely after

the manner of Sea-kale.

Kaempferi

Mi ft

Japan

Moist

S. Kaempferi is a Colts-

Yellow

Autumn

loam and

foot-like plant with broad

H.-hardy

peat

pale-green leaves splashed

with creamy-white heads

of large golden-yellow

rayed flowers. Fine.

Stokesia cyanea

lift.

N. Am.

Sandy

Daisy Order. This hardy

Blue

Aug.-

loam and

perennial succeeds best

aster-like

Sept.

leaf-

grown out of doors and

fl. heads

mould

potted in summer for

autumn flowering under

glass.

Tricyrtis hirta

i-iift.

Japan

Sandy

Luy Order. Though a lili-

White

Aug.-

loam

aceous plant botanically,

flecked

Oct.

and

Tricyrtis has more the

with

peat

appearance of an Orchid,

mauve

and is both pretty and

uncommon looking. Very

easily managed.

TRAILING PLANTS FOR BASKETS

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

Soil

General Remarks.

Campanula fra-

Trailer

S. Italy

Ordinary

Hare-bell Order. These

gilis

4-6 ins.

Late

potting

are all delightful and

Lavender-

summer

soil

easily-grown plants for

and

baskets or hanging pots.

autumn

All half-hardy.

Cisophylla alba

3-6 ins.

,,

White

Mayi

3-6 ins.

Hybrid

Mauve-

New

blue

Convolvulus al-

Slender

S. Europe

Very

Convolvulus Order. The

thaeoides

twiner

June

sandy

finely-cut foliage, like

Fls. pink

loam

frosted silver, of this

arvensis

Twiner

British

and

species forms its chief

and

June-

leaf-

beauty. The Field C.,

trailer

Sept.

mould

though a British weed,

Pink or

makes a charming basket

white

plant for a sunny posi-

mauritanicus

Trailer

N. Africa

tion.

Lavender-

Summer

blue

and

autumn

Lotus peliorhyn-

Trailer

Canary

Ordinary

Broom Order. The hang-

chus ( = L.

Fls.

Islands

good

ing stems of silver-grey

Bertholetii)

scarlet

May

potting

foliage with miniature

H.-hardy

soil

" lobster-claws " at their

ends are very effective.

Lysimachia

Trailer

Garden

Moist

Primrose Order. The Gol-

Nummularia

Foliage

var.

ordinary

den - leaved Creeping

aurea

yellow

June and

soil

Jenny.

Hardy

July

TRAILING PLANTS FOR BASKETS

209

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

Soil.

General Remarks.

Mitchella repens

Trailing

N. Am.

Moist

Woodruff Order. A charm-

ever-

Spring

sandy

ing little plant with lea-

green

loam and

thery dark-green leaves

White

leaf-

and white jasmine-like

Hardy

mould

flowers in May followed

by scarlet berries which

remain through the win-

ter. It likes shade and

moisture.

Nertera de-

Creeping

N. Zealand

Moist

Woodruff Order. Bead

pressa

in dense

Summer

light

Plant. Generally grown

tufts of

and

sandy

in a pan. Erroneously

minute

autumn

loam

known as New Zealand

leaves

and

Duckweed.

Fls. in-

leaf-

conspicu-

mould

ous

Orange -

scarlet

berries

H.-hardy

Nierembergia

Trailer

La Plata

Moist

Nightshade Order. This

rivularis

White

Autumn

sandy

plant may be used in

cup-

loam

various ways, e.g., to sur-

shaped fls.

face large pots, as well as

Hardy

for baskets.

Parochetus

Creeping

Himalayas

Weil-

Broom Order. " Sham-

communis

stems

Oct.-

drained

rock Pea." Clover-like

rooting

Nov.

sandy

leaves and rather large

at joints

loam and

pea-flowers of an unusual

Cobalt-

leaf-

shade of blue. A pretty

blue

mould

plant.

( 210 )

ANNUALS SUITABLE FOR POT CULTURE

HARDY Annuals may be sown in August and September, to flower
under glass in early Spring. Half-hardy and Tender Annuals do
best sown in a Wardian frame in March and April to flower in
summer and autumn.

Most Annuals require a fairly rich compost consisting of three
parts of good loam and one of thoroughly decayed manure with
some sharp sand.

Name.

Height.

Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

General Remarks.

Arctotis brevis-

6-12 ins.

Orange

Cape

Daisy Order. Handsome

capa

Summer

and choice but requiring

grandis

1-SiJL

White

and

full sun. Half-hardy.

autumn

Browallia gran-

i£ft.

Pale blue

Peru

Nightshade Order. For

diflora

or white

Autumn

large specimens put three

speciosa ma-

1 2 ins.

Deep blue

in a pot. Sown early

jor

these flower in autumn

and will continue until

cold weather disables

them. Good greenhouse

plants. Rather tender.

Campanula

12 ins.

Purple

Taurus

Harebell Order. A re-

macrostyla

veined

Mts.

markable and interesting

July

species. Hardy.

Clintonia pul-

6 ins.

Rich blue

Cali-

Harebell Order. Ex-

chella ( = Dow-

or blue

fornia

tremely pretty for a

ningia)

and white

Summer

hanging pot or basket.

Half-hardy.

Collinsia bicolor

12-15 ins-

Lilac and

Cali-

Foxglove Order. Autumn

white

fornia

sowing is best, and the

verna

1 2 ins.

Blue and

tt

plants will be very at-

white

Mar.-May

tractive in early spring.

violacea

6- 1 2 ins.

Purple

Arkansas

Hardy.

and white

Early

summer

ANNUALS SUITABLE FOR POT CULTURE

211

Name.

Height.

Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

General Remarks.

Cosmos bipin-

2 ft. or

Mauve,

Mexico

Daisy Order. Very late

natus

more

rose, or

Late

flowering. They may be

white

autumn

planted in outside border

and carefully lifted in

September to flower in

the greenhouse. Half-

hardy.

Dianthus Hed-

pins.

Crimson

Japan

Carnation Order. Sow in

dewigii

or white

Summer

autumn for early spring

flowering. The large

single vars., such as Crim-

son Belle and Eastern

Queen, are the most ef-

fective and do well in

pots. Hardy.

Gaillardia am-

i-i£ft.

Deep red

Texas

Daisy Order. Well-known

blyodon

Sept.-

and showy for autumn

picta

12 ins.

Orange-

October

blooming. Half-hardy.

red and

yellow

Godetia Whit-

lift.

Crimson

Cali-

Evening Primrose Order.

neyi and vars.

to white

fornia

All the named varieties

July-

make fine pot-plants for

October

summer and autumn.

Hardy.

Helichrysum

Ij-2ft.

Shades of

Australia

Daisy Order. Strong

bracteatum

crimson

August-

growing everlastings

and

Sept.

which are often grown in

yellow

pots. Half-hardy.

Impatiens Bal-

1-2 ft.

Purple,

Trop.

Geranium Order. Balsam.

samina

rose, or

Asia

These are decorative

white

Early

plants if well grown.

autumn

Sow singly in thumb-pots

in March. Give the

young plants successive

shifts into a larger size

until they are in 8-in. or

lo-in. pots. Feed gene-

rously. Stand out of

doors in good weather,

and disbud for a time, if

very large specimens are

required. Tender.

212

APPENDIX

Name

Height.

Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

General Remarks.

lonopsidium

2-3 ins.

Lilac

Portugal

Wallflower Order. A mi-

acaule

nute but useful little car-

peting plant. In flower

at all seasons as it gene-

rally sows itself. Hardy.

Ipomcea hede-

Twiners

Light blue

S. Am.

Convolvulus Order. Both

racea

6- 10 ft.

and white

July-

pretty species of green-

Sept.

house convolvulus not

Quamoclit

,,

Scarlet or

,,

often seen, and very dis-

6ft.

dark red

tinct from each other.

The foliage of I. Quamo-

clit is finely cut. Tender.

Lathyrus odora-

4-6 ft.

Garden

Sicily

Broom Order. Sow in

tus (Sweet

vars.

July and August for win-

Peas)

many hued

ter flowering under glass.

It has recently been

stated that cuttings can

be easily struck from

side shoots — which is

worth doing of an extra

good variety. Hardy.

Lavatera tri-

2-3 ft.

Rose-

S. Europe

Mallow Order. An im-

mestris, var.

pink

Summer

proved form of a well-

splendens

known showy annual.

var. alba

M

White

Jf

Leptosiphon al-

6 ins.

White

Cali-

Phlox Order. Low-grow-

bus

fornia

ing plants with brilliant

aurens

,,

Orange

Early

but small flowers. Hardy.

roseus

}F

Pink

spring

Limnanthes

6-8 ins.

Yellow

Cali-

Geranium Order. Good

Douglassii

and white

fornia

for baskets in spring.

Very

Very hardy. Sow in

early

autumn.

spring

Lobelia tenuior

1 2 ins.

Deep blue

Australia

Harebell Order. A pretty

and white

Sept.

species lately re-intro-

duced. Half-hardy.

Martynia frag-

lift.

Crimson-

Mexico

Pedalineae Order. A hand-

rans

purple,

July-

some large-growing plant

yellow

Sept.

not often seen, and sweet-

throat

&

scented. Half-hardy.

Mesembryan-

6-8 ins.

Yellow

Cape

Fig-marigold Order. The

themum pome-

July

first expands after mid-

ridianum

day as its name implies.

ANNUALS SUITABLE FOR POT CULTURE

213

Name.

Height.

Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

General Remarks.

tricolor and

4-6 ins.

Rose and

April

All are good for sunny

var. album

white

and

greenhouses, and do best

Pure white

May

in very sandy soil.

Mina lobata

Climber

Red and

S. Mexico

Convolvulus Order. A

cream-

Summer

beautiful annual climber

white

when treated generously.

The spikes of flowers

which change colour as

they mature are remark-

able. Seldom seen in per-

fection. Half-hardy.

Nemesia stru-

12 ins.

White,

Cape

Foxglove Order. A most

mosa

orange to

Summer

distinct and lovely an-

carmine

nual.

Nemophila in-

Trailer

Sky-blue

Cali-

Nemophila Order. Sown

signis and vars.

4-6 ins.

or white

fornia

in August or September,

Spring

this is capital for baskets

or

or pans for early spring

summer

flowering. A single plant

makes a good specimen.

Hardy.

Papaver glau-

lift.

Crimson-

Syria

Poppy Order. The various

cum

scarlet

Spring

kinds of Poppy are es-

Rheas (Shir-

2i ft.

Many

,,

pecially valuable sown in

ley vars.)

coloured

autumn for spring flower-

ing. Very hardy.

P. umbrosum

lift.

Deep

Caucasus.

scarlet

Rodanthe Man-

1 2 ins.

Pink or

Australia

Daisy Order. Delicate

glesi(=Helip-

white

Summer

little everlastings which

terum)

and

are much grown from 6-8

autumn

in a 5 -in. pot. (For

another plan see Chapter

XVI.) Half-hardy.

Sabbatia cam-

9 ins.

Rose-pink

N. Am.

Gentian Order. A pretty

pestris

Summer

and uncommon plant. A

good plan is to place the

pot in a saucer, filling it

frequently but not letting

the plant stand altogether

in water. Half-hardy.

Salpiglossis si-

i-iift.

Crimson,

Chili

Nightshade Order. Best

nuata nana

purple or

Late

sown in early spring for

yellow

summer

summer and autumn

reticulated

and

flowering. Rich soil.

autumn

Half-hardy.

214

APPENDIX

Name.

Height.

Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

General Remarks.

Schizanthus

12 ins.

Various

Chili

Foxglove Order. These

Wisetonensis

(Garden

new hybrids, lately in-

forms)

troduced of an old and

Autumn

favourite plant are very

fine. Sown early and

shifted into larger pots

.

as required, single plants

will be very ornamental

for autumn in the un-

heated house, but will

not answer for winter

flowering. Half-hardy.

Statice Bon-

1 2 ins.

Yellow

Algeria

Thrift Order. Flowers

duellii

everlasting. Seed of

Suworowii

lift.

Lilac

Turkes-

these annual species of

tan

Statices may be sown

Summer

either in spring or au-

or

tumn as desired for sea-

autumn

son of blooming. Au-

tumn seedlings will re-

quire a little extra care

during winter. Half-

hardy.

Thunbergia

Dwarf

Buffer

S. Africa

Acanthus Order. These

alata

twiner

white

Summer

must be started in a close

2* ft.

with dark

frame or Wardian case

eye

and, when the seedlings

are strong enough and

have been gradually har-

dened off, make charming

basket or trellis plants.

Tender.

Tropoeolum

Climber

Scarlet-

Columbia

Geranium Order. These

lobbianum

orange or

Summer

fine " Nasturtiums " are

vars.

yellow

really perennial, but are

generally treated as an-

nuals. They make fine

pillar plants or baskets.

The soil should not be too

rich for the latter pur-

pose, otherwise they are

apt to become too vigo-

rous. The Tom Thumb

section of T. majus are

very handsome, and, in

ANNUALS SUITABLE FOR POT CULTURE

215

Name.

Height.

Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

General Remarks.

default of anything more
choice, would make a

small greenhouse gay in
a few weeks during sum-
mer and autumn.

Verbena hy-
brida

12 ins.

Scarlet,
purple to
white

Mexico
Summer

Verbena Order. These are
now very generally trea-
ted as annuals, and raised

from seed year by year.
With a little training
they succeed very well as
pot plants.

BIENNIALS

Name.

Height.

Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

General Remarks.

Campanula

2-2J ft.

White to

S. Europe

Harebell Order. The well-

Medium

deep

Spring

known " Canterbury

purple

Bells." These make very

and pink

fine pot-plants.

pyramidalis

2j-4ft.

Lavender-

Europe

The " Chimney " C. is

blue or

Autumn

really perennial, but does

white

best treated as a biennial.

Side shoots can be rooted

if desired, but seedlings

generally make the best

plants.

Chamoepeuce

Rosettes

Pale

S. Europe

Daisy Order. Chiefly val-

Casabonae

of deep

purple

uable as foliage plants

(Fishbone

green

when young for green-

Thistle)

leaves

house or plant groups.

veined

They do not flower till the

white

second year. Sow in au-

Diacantha

Leaves

Purple

Syria

tumn. Hardy.

spiny

with

silvery

veins and

spines

Cheiranthus

1-2 ft.

Various

North

Wall-flower Order. Ger-

Cheiri (Wall-

and

man, French, and English

flower)

Central

hybrids are distinct from

Europe

each other, and all are

Late

fine. The German are

autumn,

mostly double forms of

winter,

the Rocket Wall-flower.

and

The old English double

spring

Wall-flowers must be pro-

BIENNIALS

217

Name.

Height.

Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

General Remarks.

pagated by cuttings. The

single forms by seed.

Harbinger, a rich crimson

brown, begins to flower

before Christmas, and is

invaluable where there is

only the shelter of glass.

Very hardy.

Exacum affine

6 ins.

Lilac-blue

Socotra

Gentian Order. A rather

Summer

uncommon plant and

and

generally grown in heat,

autumn

but it has been managed

successfully by raising

seedlings in autumn in a

Wardian case, in which

they remained until all

danger of frost was over

in spring. Tender.

Humea elegans

3-4 ft.

Minute

Australia

Daisy Order. Sow the

brown

July-

seed in July and pot

flowers

October

singly when large enough,

in large

letting them grow slowly

branching

or in a light airy position

panicle

in frame or greenhouse.

In spring, they must

be encouraged to grow,

giving successive shifts

until they reach a 9-in.

pot. Rather difficult to

grow well, but have a

very good sub-tropical

effect. Tender.

Matthiola (In-

12-15 ins-

Red and

Garden

Wall-flower Order. East

termediate

white

forms

Lothian Intermediate

Stocks)

Spring

Stocks are more for pots

than the Brompton Sec-

tion, and are quite worth

growing for the green-

house. They like extra

rich soil. Hardy.

Pentstemon Co-

i-i^ft.

PurpleJ

Texas

Foxglove Order. Hand-

bsea

and white

Autumn

some plants not often met

murrayanus

2-3 ft.

Scarlet

Western

with, and better under

U. S. A.

glass than in the open.

218

APPENDIX

Name.

Height.

Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

General Remarks.

Wrightii

2 it.

Rosy-red

Hybrid

P. murrayanus is rather

June

tender. The others are

hardy.

Scabiosa atro-

2-2$ ft.

Maroon

S. Europe

Teasel Order. Seeds sown

purpurea

to white

July-

in June and July and al-

and vars.

August

lowed to make their

growth in an open frame

will make useful bloom-

ing plants in early spring.

( 2I9 )

HARDY TERRESTRIAL ORCHIDS

THE compost usually recommended for Terrestrial Orchids is a
mixture of sandy loam, peat, and chopped sphagnum moss with a
little charcoal in small lumps. Leaf-mould is now largely used by
Orchid growers as a substitute for peat. The bog-species like
plenty of moisture. Most of the plants here named will do well
with cold-frame culture and brought into a greenhouse to flower.

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

General Remarks.

Bletia hyacin-

12 ins.

China

This used to be treated as a stove-

thina

Purple

Mar.-June

plant, but has proved to be

quite hardy in the open garden.

Quite worthy of a greenhouse,

and lasts long in flower.

Calopogon pul-

15-18 ins.

N.Am.

Tuberous rooted, with grass-

chellus

Purple

July-Aug.

like leaves. Grows naturally

with pale

in swamps where Cranberries

yellow

thrive.

fringed

lip

Calypso borealis

4 ins.

Northern

A miniature plant, but very beau-

Rose with

Hemi-

tiful in its delicate colouring and

brown pen-

sphere

markings. Shade from scorch-

cillings

May

ing spring sun.

and yellow

crested

lip

Cephalanthera

1-2 ft.

Britain

A shade and chalk-loving British

grandiflora

Cream-

May- June

Orchid but rare. Probably

(White Hellebo-

white

would not succeed without some

rine)

addition of lime in the soil.

22O

APPENDIX

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

General Remarks.

Cypripedium

8-10 ins.

Northern

It is stated that this species is

acaule

Broad

U.S.A.

only found in swamps in N.

var. alba

twin

May-

America growing amongst the

leaves

June

sphagnum without a particle of

Sepals and

soil near its roots. In such situa-

petals

tions it is common but not else-

* greenish

where. It thrives in the full sun

Lip, rose-

in the wet moss. The white var.

purple

is rarer than the type.

Calceolus

1 2- 1 8 ins.

European

One of our rarest English wild-

Leafy

and

flowers in limestone districts in

stem

British

Northern counties. Difficult to

Sepals and

cultivate, and must not be kept

petals

wet like the above, though it

brown

likes shade and moisture in

Lip,

summer and comparative dry-

yellow

ness when at rest.

candidum

1 2 ins.

N. Am.

An expert writes : " C. candidum

Sepals and

Early

is found in peat bogs, where the

petals

summer

roots are always wet, while the

greenish-

tops (in summer) are fully ex-

brown

posed to sunlight."

Lip, white

guttatum

6-9 ins.

N. Russia

A small but rare and charming

Twin

June

species. Sandy leaf-mould and

leaves

sphagnum recommended. Likes

White,

shade and should be kept rather

marbled

dry when at rest.

rosy-

purple

macranthum

9-12 ins.

Siberia

A very beautiful species, if true to

Large

May-

name, and hardy but difficult to

Rosy-

June

flower. It requires a stronger

purple or

compost than others, and thrives

red self

best in good fibrous loam mixed

with broken charcoal.which helps

to keep the soil sweet, as root

disturbance is to be avoided.

parviflorum

li-2 ft.

N. Am.

A good species, the long- twisted

Leafy stem

Early

petals being a distinct feature.

Sepals and

summer

Compost of peat and leaf-soil

petals

with partial shade and moisture.

brown,

spirally

twisted

Lip,yellow

HARDY TERRESTRIAL ORCHIDS

221

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

General Remarks.

pubescens

1^-2 ft.

N. Am.

The most vigorous and easily

Leafy

May-

grown of the yellow-flowered

stems

June

species. It is not so particular as

Fls. brown

to soil, but will thrive and flower

and

well under the ordinary condi-

yellow

tions which suit Cypripediums.

A very desirable species.

spectabile

I*-2ift.

N. Am.

The Red Indian's " Moccasin

Leafy

May-

Flower." This species is essen-

stems

June

tially a shade lover and is said to

Sepals and

dwindle and die if the trees

petals

which give it coolness and

white

shelter in its native swamp are

Large

cut down.

rounded

Hp,

There are some other hardy Cy-

rose or

pripediums, such as C. arietinum

pink

and C. montanum, but the above

comprise the best known.

Disa grandiflora

i $-2 ft.

C. Colony

A cold-house Orchid of brilliant

Scarlet

June-

colouring and not hard to grow.

and light

July

There are several varieties, e.g.,

pink

D. grandiflora Barrellii and D. g.

superba. Disas grow naturally

on the banks of streams, and in

graminifolia

I £-2 ft.

Table

times of flood are often sub-

(Blue Disa)

Fls. not

Mountain

merged. They should never be

large

allowed to become very dry

but

even in winter, and too much

brilliant

water can scarcely be given when

blue

they are making their growth.

Pans with perforated side-holes

suit them best. The Blue Disa

requires rather stiff soil.

Diuris alba

1 2- 1 8 ins.

Australia

A great number of terrestrial or-

Bluish-

Summer

chids are indigenous to Australia

white

and Tasmania. The three species

aurea

Yellow

of Diuris here given are distinct

lilacina

Purple-

and pretty with grass-like fo-

lilac

liage. The long-tailed flowers of

D. lilacina are borne in succes-

sion on a spike for some time.

All will do well in a mixture of

loam and peat.

222

APPENDIX

[Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

General Remarks.

Goodyera pubes-

3 ins.

N. Am.

A pretty low-growing surfacing

cens

Foliage

July

plant with silver tracery of

green

veins. The dark-green leaves of

veined

the British species are not white-

white

veined. Both like shade and

repens

Ever-

Britain

leaf-mould.

green

Habenaria ciliaris

I £-2 ft.

N. Am.

Habenarias are of the type of our

Orange-

Early

British Butterfly orchis (H. bi-

yellow

folid)', but many of the exotic

with

species are far finer. For the

fringed

most part they seem to grow

lip

naturally in wet swampy ground

fimbriata

i-i£ft.

N. Am.

amongst the sphagnum.

Lilac-

(In full

purple

sun)

fringed

fl. spikes

4- 10 ins.

psycodes

Rose to

N. Am.

crimson

(In deep

fringed

shade)

Fragrant

Ophrys apifera

6-8 ins.

Britain

This species grows freely on dry

(Bee-orchis)

Lilac with

June-

chalk banks, often by roadsides

brown lip

July

in full sun — conditions rather

difficult to imitate under culti-

vation to their satisfaction.

insectifera

Of the

S. Europe

These include Spider and Bumble-

same type

April-

bee orchises.

as above

May

but

*

larger

muscifera (Fly

Slender

Britain

In shape and colour of flower

orchis)

spike

In shady

this is quite distinct from all the

6 ins.

woods on

above species of Ophrys.

Fls.

chalk

maroon

May-

with blue

July

spot

speculum

4-12 ins.

S. Europe

The Looking-glass Orchis, so-

called from its central shining

steel-coloured disk. Well known

on the Italian and French Ri-

vieras.

COOL-HOUSE ORCHIDS

223

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

General Remarks.

Orchis foliosa

i^ft.

Madeira

A very fine and easily managed

Purple

May

species, often grown for ordinary

greenhouse decoration.

papilionacea

I ft.

Rome

Besides these S. European or-

Crimson

April

chises, our own British species

provincialis

i ft.

Rome

are well worthy of cultivation.

Pale

April

yellow

and others

COOL-HOUSE ORCHIDS WHICH MAY BE TRIED IN

A GREENHOUSE— MINIMUM TEMPERATURE

THIRTY-FIVE TO FORTY DEGREES

Dendrobium nobile .
Ly caste Skinneri
Masdevallias . ..'.,-
Odontoglossum Crispum

N. China and India.
Guatemala.
Mexico and Peru.
Alexandras Mexico.

I have had so much success in growing various tender plants in
greenhouses where the minimum winter temperature was never
lower, but very frequently as low as 35° Fahr. that it seems more
than likely that under other suitable conditions some of the hardier
of the Cool-House Orchids would do well. The experiment would
be an extremely interesting and valuable one.

PLANTS SUITABLE FOR ASSOCIATING WITH
ORCHIDS IN A COLD-HOUSE

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

SoU.

General Remarks.

^Eschynanthus

4 ins.

Mounts.

Sandy

Gloxinia Order. A true

Hildebrandi

Scarlet

of

peat,

alpine of comparatively

Burmah

leaf-

recent in troduction( 1 894).

mould,

Found at high altitudes

and

in the Shan States. The

broken

tubular scarlet flowers

charcoal

are produced in terminal

clusters. Very good for

basket or block.

maculatus

Drooping

India

»

An old species little known

wiry

(? Hima-

but an admirable basket-

stems

layas)

plant for cold- house or

Fls.

August

room. I have grown it

orange-

for many years under

scarlet

such conditions with suc-

with

cess.

maroon

markings

These two JEs. should be

noted as they are the only

two, it is believed, of this

handsome genus that will

thrive without stove -

heat.

Arisacma tri-

9-12 ins.

N. Am.

Loam

Arum Order. The North

phylla

Spathe

May-

and

American " Lords and

striped

June

leaf-

Ladies " and an orna-

dark

mould

mental plant.

brown or

white

PLANTS AND ORCHIDS

225

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

Soil.

General Remarks.

Cephalotus folli-

2-3 ins.

Western

Sandy

Saxifrage Order. New Hol-

cularis

Spike of

Australia

rough

land Pitcher-plant. A

rather

peat and

pretty and singular spe-

incon-

sphag-

cies which must be grown

spicuous

num

under a bell-glass. The

white

pitcher-like leaves with

flowers.

lids form its chief in-

terest. Well worthy of

cultivation.

Darlingtonia

i-i*ft.

Cali-

Well-

Sarracenia Order. An in-

californica

Pitcher-

fornia

drained

teresting and curious spe-

like erect

April

sandy

cies of hardy Pitcher-

leaves

peat and

plant allied to Sarra-

veined

chopped

cenias.

white

sphagnum

and rose

with

Fls. pale

nodules of

green and

limestone

yellow

or charcoal

Drosera binata

with dark

Australia

As

Sundew Order. Insecti-

veins

June-

above

verous plants easily

6 ins.

Sept.

grown and very interest-

filiformis

White

N. Am.

ing, though not showy.

June-

Drain well but let the pot

i ft.

July

stand in pan of water.

Purple

Our British Sundews also

make interesting green-

house plants.

Sarmienta re-

Trailer

Chili

Moist

Gloxinia Order. A pretty

pens

Scarlet

Summer

sandy

little creeping shrub suit-

peat

able for an orchid basket

sphag-

or to root over a tree-fern

num and

stem. Shade and plenty

charcoal

of water.

Sarracenia flava

2ft.

N. Am.

Fibrous

Sarracenia Order. Many

(Side-saddle

Yellow

April

peat and

beautiful hybrid forms

Flower)

4 ins.

May

sphag-

have been raised of these

across

num

singular hardy Pitcher-

rubra

i-i£ft.

N. Am.

M

plants. They require

Reddish-

Apl.-May

still damp atmosphere,

purple

and are extremely hand-

some when well grown.

Bog plants which grow in

company with Cypripe-

diums.

P

226

APPENDIX

Vame.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

Soil.

General Remarks.

Saxifraga cus-

Trailer

China

Sandy

Saxifrage Order. A charm-

cutaeformis

4-6 ins.

June and

loam and

ing little half-hardy plant.

(The Dodder

Fls. white

July

grit

with soft variegated mar-

Saxifrage)

bled and veined leaves.

Sarmentosa var.

Leaves

Garden

,,

The variegated form of

tricolor

cream-

origin

the well-known " Mother

white,

of Thousands." A some-

green,

what delicate but ex-

and red

tremely pretty plant.

Half-hardy.

Sibthorpia euro-

Trailer

Garden

Sandy

Foxglove Order. The small

paea variegata

with

origin

loam and

round leaves are edged

minute

leaf-

with a silver margin.

flowers of

mould

Grown in semi-shade is

no

very charming for the

account

surface of pans or hang-

ing baskets.

SUCCULENT PLANTS

Any in the subjoined list may be grown in a dry winter tempera-
ture never lower than 35° Fahr. The soil that suits most succu-
lent plants is composed of rather rich loam mixed with coarse
grit and a little lime rubble. It is a mistake to starve them for
want of water in summer, but they must be kept dry in winter.

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

General Remarks.

Agave americana
var. variegata

Tall
spreading
rosette
with

South
America

Amaryllis Order. A fine plant
for pots either in a small or large
state. Increased freely by
suckers.

recurved

leaves

Victorise Reginae

Stiff
stemless
rosette
with

Mexico

A distinct and very handsome
Agave introduced in 1875. No
mode of propagation except by
seed.

curiously
margined
leaves

Aloe arborescens
var. frutescens

Tall stems
with
rosettes of
very glau-
cous spring
leaves

S. Africa

Lily Order.
The species here given are dis-
tinct, and are all worth growing
in a small collection of succulent
plants. The heads of brilliant
coloured flowers are not unlike

ciliata

Fls. red
Rather

those of a dwarf Kniphofia.

climbing
dark-green
leaves

Fls. scarlet

Very good

228

APPENDIX

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

General Remarks.

humilis

An

S. Africa

upright

somewhat

incurved

rosette of

very glau-

cous

leaves

Fls.

orange-red

stemless

mitriformis

Tall stems

S. Africa

Leaves

dark-green

stem-

clasping

with

strong

prickles

Fls. red

spicata

Yellow

S. Africa

(See Chap. XVIII.)

tipped

green

umbellata var.

Stem short

S. Africa

picta ( = Sa-

A dense

ponarico)

rosette of

dark-green

spotted

and lined

leaves

variegata (Part-

A well-

S. Africa

Often seen in cottage windows.

ridge breasted

known

A)

species

Fls. pale

salmon-

pink

Cacti. Cereus fla-

Creeping

Peru

Torch-thistle. C. flagelliformis x

gelliformis (Rat's

prostrate

Garden

C. speciosissimus. The flowers

Tail C.)

, stems

hybrid

resemble the latter with the

var. flag. Malli-

Fls. deep

creeping growth of the first.

soni

rose

Scarlet

SUCCULENT PLANTS

229

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

General Remarks.

grandiflorus

White

W. Indies

The Night-flowering Cactus. This

nycticalus

Night

Mexico

is generally treated as a stove

flowering

plant, but if kept safe from frost

White

may be grown with the rest. It

will flower well in a 6-in. pot if

well managed and trained to a

light trellis.

speciosissimus

Four-

Mexico

angled

stems

Fls.

scarlet

shaded

violet

Echinocactus cap-

Globular

Mexico

Hedge-hog Cactus. A fine species

ricornis

ribbed

with spines mostly at the apex.

spotted

with

white dots

Yellow

flowers

cornigerus

Globular

Mexico

A very formidable-looking spe-

with

cies as most of them are, but the

strong flat

interest of these curious plants

spines

consists largely in their many-

coloured

coloured and diversely shaped

red or

prickles. Splendid specimens

yellow

may be grown planted out on

Fls. purple

rock- work under glass as at Kew.

Grusoni

Globular

Mexico

golden

spined

Lecontei ,

Spines

Mexico

from pale

yellow

to pure

white

multicostatus

Many

Mexico

ribbed and

varies

greatly

Fls/white

APPENDIX

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass,

General Remarks.

Simpsoni

Globular

Colorado

clustered

Pink fls.

Small-

growing

sp.

Very

hardy

Wislizeni (Fish-

A large

Southern

hook Cactus)

growing

U.S.A.

sp. with

very

strong

hooked

ribs

Echinocereus

Procum-

Texas

Mostly low-growing or procum-

Berlandieri

bent stems

and

bent with pretty flowers.

Fls. purple

Mexico

candicans

Spines

Chili

Rainbow Cactus.

deep red

to cream-

white

enneacanthus

Branching

Texas

A free-flowering sp. Spines yel-

stems

low and short.

3-6 ins.

in clusters

Fls.

reddish-

purple

pectinatus

Clustered

Mexico

The flowers of this species are

stems

large and fragrant.

Spines

white

Fls.

mauve-

pink

procumbens

Prostrate

Mexico

This species requires more warmth

stems

in winter than most, and to be

3-4 ins.

kept very dry.

Fls. rosy-

purple

Echinopsis Ey-

Very short

Argentina

The flowers of Echinopsis are

riesii

spines

funnel-shaped, sometimes 8-10

Fls. pure

ins. long, and produced from the

white

side of the globular-ribbed stem.

SUCCULENT PLANTS

231

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

General Remarks.

MiiUeri

Fls. rose-

Hybrid

They must never be over-watered

colour

as the very succulent stems be-

and

come overcharged with moisture

double

which results in a disease akin

and others

to dropsy. Otherwise they are

very hardy.

Epiphyllum rus-

Dwarf on

Brazil

This variety is of garden origin,

sellianum

their own

(Type)

and, as it does not flower till

var. Gaertneri

roots,

May and June can be kept safe

but

from frost more easily than the

usually

well-known E. truncatum. It

grafted

is, moreover, a very fine plant.

Fls.

scarlet

Mamillaria appla-

Long tu-

Mexico

This Mamillaria has long scarlet

nata

bercles

fruit which gives it a special

with tufts

character.

of white

spines

Fls. white

tinged red

Small

bocasana

Hooked

Mexico

Small, but very distinct.

spines set

in silky

tufts

glacilis pulchella

Spines in

Mexico

A clustered species.

silvery

stars

lasiacantha

Spines in

Texas

A very choice little Mamillaria.

feathery

The Kew Hand-list gives more

rosettes

than a hundred species and va-

and others

rieties. The four here given are

sufficiently typical.

Opuntia micro-

Flat

Mexico

Prickly Pear. There are innu-

dasys

jointed

merable species of Opuntia —

stems

some of them handsome, but

closely

they are extremely unpleasant

spotted

plants to cultivate on account of

with tufts

their penetrating and almost

of spiny

poisonous spines. O. mlcroaasys

gold-

is one of the most attractive-

coloured

looking, but has to be handled

hairs

with great care. The second-

named is not so vicious, and is a

well-known hardy species.

232

APPENDIX

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

General Remarks.

Rafinesquii

Dark-

U.S.A.

green flat

stems and

few spines

Fls.

yellow

Phyllocactus Ac-

Dwarf

Mexico

Flat-stemmed Cacti. One of the

kermanni

stems

finest and most easily grown.

spineless

Fls. rich

full

scarlet

anguliger

Broadly

Mexico

A handsome and distinct plan

angled

even when not in flower.

stems

Fls. white

grandis

Dwarf

Honduras

A magnificent species. Its only

Fls. ivory-

fault a too short duration in

white

flower. Individual blooms open

with pale

in the evening and last generally

yellow

two days. A well-grown plant

and brown

produces many flowers in suc-

sepals

cession.

6 ins.

across

phyllanthoides

Dwarf

Mexico

This old species is amongst the

Fls.

very best, and the fls. are more

tubular,

lasting than those of most Cacti.

bright

These are four distinct Phyllo-

pink and

cacti, but there are numerous

very freely

hybrids of garden origin which

produced

are very fine and desirable.

( *33 )

VARIOUS SUCCULENT PLANTS (NOT CACTI)

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

General Remarks.

Cotyledon aga-

Stemless

Mexico

Crassula Order. Plants formerly

voides

rosette

known as Echeveria and Pachy-

Fls.

phytum are now classed under

orange

the head of Cotyledon. There

bracteosum (Sil-

1 2 ins.

M

are very many other good spe-

ver Bracts)

Grey-

cies — S. African and Californian.

leaved

fulgens

Fls. scarlet

tl

and yellow

gibbiflora

Echeveria-

M

like

Large and

handsome

rosette

on stem

12-15 ins.

Crassula Bolusii

2-3 ins.

S. Africa

A minute but very pretty carpet-

Small red

ing plant.

leaves

spotted

and

blotched

Fls.

flesh-pink

falcata ( =

1-2 ft.

,,

Handsome and distinct with fine

Rochea falcata)

Grey

,,

branching heads of glittering

sickle-

flowers.

shaped

leaves

Fls. orange

scarlet

lactea

Shrubby

M

A useful basket-plant for winter

6- 1 o ins.

or early spring flowering.

Heads of

pure white

flowers

234

APPENDIX

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

General Remarks.

Rochea ( = Kalo-

Under this succession of names

santhes)

Table

we find our old friend Crassula

coccinea

Shrubby

Mts.

coccinea which needs no recom-

1-2 ft.

Summer

mendation as it is well known as

Fls.

one of the most decorative of

carmine

S. Africa

greenhouse plants.

jasminea

Dwarf and

Spring

decumbent

Flowers

white

TWENTY-FOUR GOOD SPECIES OF MESEMBRY-
ANTHEMUM

Having carefully grown and studied some 150 species and varie-
ties, the subjoined are given as amongst the best for general cultiva-
tion.

Soil. Loam with a plentiful addition of coarse sharp sand or
crushed granite.

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

General Remarks.

Mesembryanthe-

Prostrate

Flowers

An Australian species, but Me-

mum abbreviatum

habit of

large

sembs., with very few excep-

M. edule

Rose-

tions (of which this is one), are

but more

pink

natives of S. Africa. Interesting

glaucous

because it bears large edible

and less

fruits, which are rather pleasant.

spreading

bicolor (= coc-

Shrubby

Orange

A remarkably handsome plant.

cineum)

erect

and

GUttering in sunshine when in

12-15 ins-

scarlet

full flower.

Ls. finely

medium

cylindric

in size but

profuse

May-Sept.

blandum

Stems

Fls. pure

One of the most useful of all as it

shrubby,

white,

may be made to flower at almost

rather de-

large

any season except the dead of

cumbent

winter, by putting successive

Ls. pale

cuttings.

green and

long

var. roseum

Identical

Rose-pink

in habit

APPENDIX

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

General Remarks.

Cooperi

Much

Fls.

branched,

Rosy-

decumbent

purple

3-4 ins.

Summer

Ls.

studded

with

silvery

dots

deltoides

Dwarf

Fls. small

For permanent rock-work under

branching

pink

glass, this and its allied species

3-4 ins.

Very

will make excellent carpeting or

.

Ls. wedge-

sweet

overhanging plants.

shaped

Spring

toothed

densum

Trailing

Flowers

This belongs to the bearded sec-

stems

large

tion, and is one of the best.

3 ins.

Mauve-

Ls. cylin-

purple

dric with

June

tuft of

hairs at

apex

edule

Prostrate

Flowers

Hottentot Fig. This edible sp.

spreading

very

never ripens fruit in England,

stems

large

though M. abbreviatum, which

Ls.

Pale

is nearly akin to it, does so in

3-angled

yellow

favourable seasons.

dark green

falciforme

Shrubby

Fls. large

There are various forms of this

6-12 ins.

and hand-

sp., some much more free-bloom-

Clusters of

some

ing and fine than others.

very

Silvery-

glaucous

pink

sickle-

April-

shaped

June

leaves

formosum

Dwarf

Flowers

Somewhat like M. spectabile but

shrubby

large

really distinct.

12 ins.

Rose-

Ls. long

pink

and

with white

3-angled

centre

Spring

SPECIES OF MESEMBRYANTHEMUM

237

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

' General Remarks.

glaucum

1 2 ins.

Fls. large

A very fine species. Old plants

Erect

Sulphur

flower well and the stems bend

Ls. short

with

down and recurve with age. One

very

yellow

of the hardiest.

glaucous,

centre

3-angled

March

onwards

inclaudens

6-8 ins.

Fls.

Never closes its flowers, and is

Branches

medium -

valuable on that account.

spreading

sized

Ls. dark-

Pale

green and

mauve

angled

Spring

Stems red

and

summer

lacerum

12-15 ins-

Fls. large

Pretty both in foliage and flower,

Shrubby

Petals

which, like above, keeps open

erect stems

finely

after having arrived at maturity.

Ls. very

cut of a

glaucous

peculiar

with

shade of

crested

chamois-

keel

pink

linguaeforme

Stemless

Fls. large

This goes on flowering with each

depressed

solitary

pair of leaves for some time.

Ls. tongue-

Bright

shaped

yellow

dark green

July-Sept.

and long

lunatum

9-12 ins.

Fls. small

A slender pretty plant.

Shrubby,

Pale pink

branching

and very

Ls.

sweet

crescent-

Spring

shaped

micans

i-i^ft.

Fls.

Brilliant and free flowering.

Erect

medium-

shrubby

sized

and

Scarlet

slender

with gold-

Ls. in

en centres

clusters

July-

finely

Aug.

cylindric,

and

glittering

APPENDIX

Name.

Height and
Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

General Remarks

mucronatum

Dwarf

Fls. rose-

Very nearly akin to M. deltoides

spreading

pink

(which see) but larger. M. mu-

shrubby

small

ricatum is again almost identical

Ls. deltoid

Vanilla-

but the smallest of the three and

scented

more densely crowded.

Spring

polyanthon

Slender

Fls. bright

A many-flowered brilliant species,

branching

purple-

and one of the most charming.

stems

mauve

Cuttings of soft young tops fre-

Ls.

Small

quently put in give the best

glaucous

but

results.

finely

numerous

cylindric

Spring or

summer

productum

1 2- 1 8 ins.

Fls. large

Erect

Brilliant

shrubby

purple

Ls. bright

Summer

green

and

clustered

autumn

Stems red

rostratum

Stemless

Fls.

Unlike any of the others. Not

3 ins.

medium-

showy, but curious. Opens in

2-cylindric

sized

the afternoon.

upright

Lemon-

leaves

yellow

gradually

forming

clusters

rubro-cinctum

Habit of

Fls. very

A fine species but not very free-

M. edule

large

flowering.

Ls. red-

Rose-red

edged

spectabile

1 2 ins.

Fls. 2 ins.

A good pot-plant for any green-

Fig. stems

across

house, and very free blooming.

erect

Bright

Ls. very

rose-pink

glaucous

3-angled

tenuifolium

Slender

Fls.

Not very free-flowering but makes

lax

shining

a handsome specimen trained

growth

coppery-

against a light trellis. Fls. of a

Ls. bright

red

remarkable tint.

green

June-

clustered

Sept.

SPECIES OF MESEMBRYANTHEMUM

239

Name.

Height and
„ Colour.

Country and
Season under
Glass.

General Remarks.

tigrinum

3ins.

Fls.

" Tiger-chap

" of Haworth. There

Stemless

bright

are several

allied species, but

clustered

yellow,

this is the

best for an ordinary

rosettes

large

collection.

Ls.

Opening

curiously

after

ciliated

mid-day

and

Autumn

marbled

Cuttings of the soft shoots should frequently be put in as Mesem-
bryanthemums of the shrubby sorts especially, soon grow old and
shabby and do not then flower well.

For any one wishing to grow Succulent Plants exclusively, the
foregoing lists may be a useful guide in forming the nucleus of
a good collection.

INDEX

ABELIA rupestris, 78, 178 ;

floribunda, 185 ; triflora,
185
Abutilon megapotamicum,

185 ; vitifolium, 74, 185
Acacias, 9, 35, 73, 185, 186,

191
Acanthus latifolius, 46 ; spin-

osus, 169

Aconite, Winter, 55
Adonis amurensis, 94
Agapanthus, 1 1 ; umbellatus,

161

Agaves, 123
Ageratum, 34
Aloes, 123
Alpine House, plants for

flowering in, from January

to May, 145-152
Alpine plants for associating

with tubers and bulbs in

flower from January to May,

153-156
Alstrcemeria pelegrina, alba,

161

Alstrcemerias, 60, 61
Anemone coronaria, 157 ;

poppy, 157; stellata, 157
Anemones, 33, 54, 55
Annual flowers for unheated

greenhouse, 107, 108
Annual flowers, tender, for

summer and autumn, 1 1 1 ;

in the cold greenhouse, 114,

115; and Mrs. Loudon, 112,

H3

Anoiganthus breviflorus, 161
Anomatheca cruenta, 163

Anopterus glandulosus, 186
Aphelexis macrantha, 81
Aquilegia chrysantha, 98 ;

caerulea, 98

Aralia Sieboldi, 46, 169
Aralis albida, 96
Araucaria Bidwilli, 169 ; ex-

celsa, 169
Arctotis aureola, 104 ; arbor-

escens, 104
Arthropodium cirrhatum, 161 ;

paniculatum, 62, 161
Arums, wintering, 137
Aucubas, 47
Auriculas from seed, 99
Asparagus umbellatus, 73
Astilbe chinensis,96 ; japonica,

96

Aster grandiflorus, 102
Asters, China, 1 1 1
Azalea, Ghent, 178; indica,

178 ; mollis, 178
Azaleas, 33, 81, 82, 83
Azolla filiculoides, 39

BAMBUSA tessellata, 169
Baskets, hanging, Shamrock

pea for, 103

Bauera rubioides, 86, 191
Begonias, tuberous, 161
Bell-flower, Peach - leaved,

The, in pots, 97,98
Bell-flowers, Italian, Two, 104
Bell-glasses, Use of, 133
Berberis Darwinii, i78;steno-

phylla, 179

0

INDEX

Biennial flowers in the cold
greenhouse, 107, 108, 114,

115

Bletia hyacinthina, 1 16

Blight, destroy, 138

Boronias, 9, 35, 193

Bouvardia, 34

Brodiaea uniflora, 157

Brugmansia sanguinea, 179 ;
suaveolens, 179

Brugmansias, 79

Buddleia Colvillei, 74, 186

Bugloss, bushy, The, 80

Bulbs, half-hardy, 161; spring,
in the unheated green-
house, 46 ; Cape, in resting
season, 137; for unheated
greenhouse, 49 ; tubers for
associating with Alpine
plants in flower from J anuary
to May, 153-156; in water
and the use of charcoal, 129

Buttercup, Bermuda, 59, 60

CACTI, 1 6, 35 ; drip fatal to,
126; flat-leaved, 123

Caesalpinia Gilliesii, 189

Calceolaria violacea, 84

Callas, 6 1

Calypso borealis, 1 1 8

Camellias, 81, 83, 84, 179

Camellia theifera, 192

Campanula fragilis, 104 ; iso-
phylla alba; Mayi, 104; per-
sicifolia as a pot plant, 97,98

Canna indica, 161

Cantua buxifolia, 75, 186

Cape cowslips, 58

Carex japonica, 48

Carnations, The Margherita,
1 10 ; grenadin, for autumn,
103

Carpenteria californica,73, 74,
186

Caryopteris mastacanthus, 179

Cassia corymbosa, 179, 186

Ceanothus azureus, 186

Centaurea ragusina, 48, 169
Cereus, night- blowing, 123 ;

speciosissimus, 121
Cercis Siliquastrum, 179
Cestrum elegans, 75
Chamaecyparis obtusa, 169 ;

pisifera, 169
Chamaepeuce Casabonae, 112;

diacantha, 112
Chamaerops humilis, 45 ; ex-

celsa, 45
Charcoal to keep water pure,

129

Cherry, Winter, 102 Jfl
Chimonanthus fragrans, 186
Chionodoxa, 56
Choisya ternata, 78, 180
Chorizemas, 192
Christmas roses, 94, 95
Chrysanthemum serotinum,

for autumn, 101
Chrysanthemums, 101
Cineraria maritima, 48
Cistus lusitanicus, 180 ; pur-

pureus, 1 80
Clematis, n, 180
Clematises in small pots, 166 ;

pruning, 136
Clethra arborea, 1 87
Clianthus Dampieri, 85, 86;

puniceus, 85, 187
Columbines, Rocky Mountain,

The, 97

Conservatory, The, 12, 13
Construction, some hints on,

15

Convallaria majalis — Fortin's
variety, Victoria variety,

T57

Corbularia monophylla, 39
Coronilla Emerus, 76, 180;

glauca, 75
Correa bicolor, 86 ; cardinalis,

86

Correas, 9, 35, 192
Corridor, Garden, The, n ;

glass, flowers in, 73
Cosmos bipinnatus, 112; di-

versifolia, 162
Cowslip, Royal, The, 100

INDEX

243

Crassulas, South African, 35

Crataegus monogyna praecox,
76

Crinum Moorei, 11,64, l62 '»
Powelli, 162

Crinums, 35

Crocus Imperati, 56

Croweas, 192

Cupheas, 34

Cupressus funebris glauca, 170

Cuttings, striking, 134, 135

Cyclamen, 33, 39 ; Coum, 56 ;
europaeum, 157; libanoti-
cum, 1 57 ; neapolitanum,
157; Persian, 34; vernum,
S<5

Cyclamens, Persian treatment
of, 138

Cypripedium, 1 16, 1 18; acaule,
119; Calceolus, 119; candi-
dum, 119; macranthum,
119; pubescens, 119; parvi-
florum, 119; spectabile, 118

Cyrtanthus angustifolius, 162 ;
lutescens, 162 ; Macowani,
162 ; McKenii, 162

Cytisus filipes, 77 ; racemosa,

77
Cytisuses, 180

D

DAFFODILS, 24 ; earlier, grow-
ing; the, 52 ; in pots, 52

Dahlia, Black, The, 104 ; coc-
cinea, 162 ; gracilis, 104 ;
glabrata, 104

Dahlias for the unheated
greenhouse, 104; Mercki,
162 ; Zimapani, 162

Daisies, Paris, 105

Daphne Genkwa, 187 ; indica,
75, 192; Dauphini, 187

Deutzia gracilis, 77 ; Kalmae-
flora, 181

Deutzias, 181 ; pruning, 136

Desfontainea spinosa, 1 87

Desmodium penduliflorum,73,
187

Dielytra, 97

Diervilla, 181

Disa grandiflora, 119, 120
Disas, The, 16, 35, 119 ; Cape,

The, 116

Doronicums, The, 33, 97
Dracaena australis, 127 ; indi-

visa, 127

Dracaenas, Hardier, The, 127
Dryness, 16 ; importance of, 17

122

ECHINOCACTI, 125

Echinopsis Eyriesii,

Echium calUthyrsum, 181 ;

fastuosum, 80

Epacris miniata splendens, 86
Ep»imedium, 96
Erica carnea, 33 ; Cavendishi,

8 1 ; hyemalis, 86; propen-

dens, 86

Eucalyptus globulus, 170
Eugenia buxifolia, 47 ; ugni,

170

Eulalia zebrina, 48
Euonymus radicans, 47
Euonymus radicans varie-

gatus, 171

FABIANA imbricata, 181
Farfugium grand e, 102
Fern allies, 177
Ferns, British and foreign,

174, 175, 176; evergreen,

native and foreign, 47 ;

filmy, New Zealand, 16 ;

syringing, 138
Flag, Common, The, 158
Flowers of bulbous plants

"blind," 53
Flowerine; plants, Retarding,

by refrigeration, 105
Foliage plants for grouping,

43 ; hardy for grouping,

169, 170, 171, 172, 173;

silvery, 48
Forget-me-not, the large

flowered, 96
Forsythia suspensa, 1 8 1
Freesias, 57 58, 59

244

INDEX

Freesia Leichtlinii, 162 ; re-

fracta alba, 162
Fremontia californica, 74,

187
Fritillaria Meleagris, 158 ;

pallidiflora, 158; recurva,

158

Fritillaries, 56
Fritillary, snake's-head, 158
Fuchsias, 181
Funkia grandiflora, 47, 171 ;

lancifolia tardiflora, 64,

162 ; sieboldiana, 41, 172

GARDEN-BOOK, Use of, 139;
corridor, The, 1 1 ; glass, The,
8 ; winter, The, 73

Gillenia trifoliata, 182

Gladioli, 35, 60

Gladiolus Colvillei albus, 158 ;
Lemoinei, 162 ; nanceianus,
162 ; ramosus, 158; Saun-
dersii, 162

Glass, coloured, evil of, 2 1

Glazing, careful, necessity for,
18

Goodyera pubescens, 1 1 8

Glory Pea, 85, 187

Green fly, destroying, 139

Greenhouse, cold, and routine
work in, 133 ; hardy plants
for, 32, 33 ; its advantages,
i ; healthiness of, 4 ; mode-
rate cost of, 5 ; manage-
ment of, 6 ; aspect of the,
15 ; possibilities of the, 140,
141 ; spring bulbs in, 46 ;
working, the, 13, 140

Grevillea rosmarinifolia, 188 ;
thelemanniana, 188

Groundsel, Cape, ivy-leaved,
47

Grouping, foliage plants for, 43

H

HEMANTHUS albiflos, 162 ;
puniceus, 162 ; sanguineus,
162; tigrinus, 162

Hard -wooded plants, 171; cut-
ting back, 87 ; some, 8 1

Hawthorns, 76

Heaths,33,35,86; watering,i37

Heating, 23, 24

Hederoma tulipif era, 8 1

Heliotrope, 34

Helleborus niger, 94

Heuchera sanguinea, 98

Hoheria populnea, 188

Honeysuckles, 188, 189

Hop, Japanese, 112

Hovea Celsii, 87, 88

Huntsman's Cup, The, 119

Hyacinths, 49 ; Roman, 50

Hydrangeas, 182

Hypericum calycinum, 85 ;
chinense, 85, 182

INSECTICIDES, 138, 139

Iris alata, 42 ; bakeriana, 42 ;
bolleana, 42 ; chinensis, 163 ;
cristata, 158; Danfordiae,
42; English, The, 158 ; fim-
briata, 163; germanica, 158;
Hausknechtii, 42 ; Heldrei-
chi, 41; Histrioides, 158;
Krelagei, 158 ; orchioides,
42 ; pumila, 158; reticulata,
42 ; reticulata and cyanea.
158; sindjarensis, 41, 158;
sophenensis, 158; Spanish
The, 159; winter, 24

Irises, 39

Irises, The, 53, 54; Xiphi-
oides, 158; Xiphium 159

Ivy, ii ; German, 172

Ivies, 171 ; small-leaved 47

Ixias, 59, 163

J

JASMINES, 11

Jasminum nudiflorum, 76

Judas tree, 179

K

KALMIA latifolia, 188
Kerria japonica, 182

INDEX

Kew, Himalayan house at, 44
Kniphofia corallina, 159;

Macowani, 159
Kniphofias, 64

LACHENALiANelsoni, 163 ; tri-
color, 163; luteola, 163;
pendula, 60, 163

Lachenalias, 35, 57, 58, 59

Lady-Slippers, Hardy, The,
118

Lapagerias, 188

Lapeyrousia cruenta, 163

Laurustinus, 76, 184

Liber tia formosa, 163

Libonia floribunda, 34

Lilies, 62, 66, 67, 68, 69, 70, 71,
72 ; belladonna, 64 ; for pots,
1 66, 167, 1 68 ; Guernsey, 62,
63 ; Madonna, 67, 68, 69, 70,
71, 72; Scarborough, 64,
138

Lily of the Valley, Forcing, 28,
56, 157

Lonicera fragrantissima, 182

Loniceras, 188, 189

M

MAGNOLIA stellata, 182

Magnolias, 73

Malus floribunda, 76

Mammillaria lasiacantha, 126

Mammillarias, 35, 125

Mesembryanthemum, 35 ; sow-
ing, 124, 125 ; opening of
flowers of, 125

Mesembryanthemum aureum,
1 24 ; bicolor, 1 24 ; blan-
dum, 1 24 ; glaucum, 1 24 ;
lacerum, 125; micans, 124;
polyanthon, 124, 125 ; spec-
tabile, 124 ; tigrinum, 125 ;
tricolor, 1 1 3

Mignonette, the old-fashioned,
in

Milla biflora, 1 59

Mimulus, shrubby, The, 84 ;

glutinosus, 84
Moccasin flower, The, in its

wild state, 118, 119
Muhlenbeckia, 46 ; complexa,

171

Myosotis dissitiflora, 96
Myrtle, Box-leaved, 75
Myrtles, 171 ; large and small

leaved, 47

N

NANDINA domestica, 171

Narcissi, The, 159

Narcissus, certain sorts of, 52 ;

paper white, 5 1
Nerine, 62, 63, 137
Nerines corusca, 163 ; Fother-

gilli, 163 ; pudica, 163 ; sar-

niensis, 163 ; undulata, 63,

163

Nerium Oleander, 78
Neriums, 182
Nemesia strumosa, 1 1 1

OLEANDER, The, 78
Olearia macrodonta, 189
Orange-flower, Mexican, 180
Orchids, bog in pans, 1 1 8 ;

hardy, 116
Orchis, Bee, 116; Fly, 116;

foliosa, 117, 118
Orchises, Terrestrial, diffi-
culties in their culture, 1 17
Origanum Dictamnus, 172
Ornithogalum aureum, 164 ;

arabicum, 164 ; nutans, var.

boucheanum, 159
Ornithogalums, 62
Orobus, 33 ; vernus, 96
Othonna cheirifolia, 172
Oxalis Bowei, 164 ; cernua,

59, 164; enneaphylla, 164;

floribunda, 159; lobata,

incarnata, 159

246

INDEX

PALMS, Fan, 45 ; hardy, 170

Pancratium illyricum, 164 ;
maritimum, 164

Paradisea Liliastrum major
159

Parochetus communis, for
hanging baskets, 103

Pea, Shamrock, for hanging
baskets, 103

Peas, Sweet, under glass, 1 1 1

Pelargoniums, 34

Pentstemon Cobaea, 1 14; Mur-
rayanus, 114

Perennials, autumn, under
glass, 1 01 ; hardy, for
spring, 94

Pernettya mucronata, 183

Phalaris arundinacea varie-
gata, 172

Phyllocacti, 123

Phyllocactus crenatus, 123 ;
phyllanthoides, 123

Physalis Alkekengi, 103 ;
Franc hetti, 102

Pieris floribunda, 183

Pimelia decussata, 87

Pink, common white, under
glass, 1 10

Plantain Lily, The, 171

Plants, greenhouse, suitable
and unsuitable, half-hardy,
34 ; hardy for greenhouse,
32, 33; hard-wooded, 191 ;
pot, in summer, 130, 131,
132; of stiff character,
grouping, 1 27 ; suitable for
flowering in Alpine house
from January to May, 145-
152 ; pot, time to prune,
136; pot, training and
pruning of, 135 ; watering,
137

Plumbago capensis, 189

Poinciana Gillies ii, 74

Polyanthus primrose in the
greenhouse, 98

Polygala dalmaisiana, 85

Polygonatum multiflorum, 172

Pomegranate, The, 79, 183
Poppies, Iceland, The, 1 1 3
Portulacas, The, 113
Potting-shed, The, 128
Potting, Tools to use in, 1 30
Primroses in greenhouse, 98
Primula, Chinese, 34 ; im-
perialis, 100 ; megasesefolia,
39 ; Sieboldi in pots, pro-
pagation of, 9
Primulas, Alpine, 33
Prunus, 72 ; japonica fl. pi.,
76; rosea plena, 183 ; sinen-
sis alba plena, 183 ; triloba
fl.pl., 183
Punica granata, 79
Pyrethrum uliginosum for
autumn, 102

RANUNCULUS, 54; asiaticus,

159

Red-hot Pokers, 64, 159
Refrigeration, Retarding

flowering plants by, 105
Reineckia carnea variegata,

172

Rhapiolepis japonica, 183
Rhododendron ciliatum, 78;

dauricum, 87 ; nobleanum,

77 ; racemosum, 78
Rhododendrons, 33, 35, 184,

1 89 ; hardy, 77 ; Himalayan,

9,73

Ribbon grass, The, 47, 172
Richardia aethiopica, 164
Rock-cress, White, 96
Roscoea purpurea, 164
Roses, 89, 90,91,92,93; Tea,

1 1 ; pruning, 1 36
Ruscus racemosus, 170

SALPIGLOSSIS, in
Sal via azurea grandiflora, 105;
coccinea superba, 105 ; ges-

INDEX

247

neraefolia, 105; Hians, 10;

patens, 105 ; Pitcheri, 105 ;

rutilans, 105; splendens, 105
Salvias, hardier, The, 105
Sarracenia flava, 1 19 ; pur-

purea, 119
Sarracenias, The hybridisation

possibilities, 119
Saxifraga burseriana major,

39 ; crassifolia as a pot plant,

97
Saxifrages, 33, 39, 40, 41

Scilla, 56

Seed-sowing, 134

Senecio Kaempferi, 102 ; mika-
noides, 47, 172 ; maritima,
172

Senna, Scorpion, 180

Shading, 28, 29

Shooting, 20

Shrubs, flowering, 73, 178, 179,
1 80, 181, 182, 183, 184, 185,
1 86, 187, 1 88, 189; miscel-
laneous, for under glass, 78

Sibthorpia europaea variegata,

173

Snowdrops, 55
Soil for potting, the best, 128,

129

Soldanellas, 39,41
Solomon's seal, 46, 172
Soot- water, making, 1 39
Sophora tetraptera, 1 89
Sparaxis pulcherrima, 59, 64 ;

pendula, 164

Spiraea Van Houttei, 77, 184
Spiraeas as pot plants, 77
Sprekelia formosissima, 164
Spring, Hardy perennials for,

94

Sternbergia fischeriana, 160

Stock all the year round,
no

Stocks in the unheated green-
house, no ; Ten- week, no

Stokesia cyanea, 102

Structures, flowering shrubs
for large, 185

St. John's Wort, 85

Succulent plants, 16 ; for the

greenhouse, 121 ; summer
treatment of, 126
Swainsonia galegifolia alba,

85
Syringe, Brass, its use in

watering, 138

TEMPERATURE, regulation of,

23

Thistles, Fish-bone, The bi-
ennial, 112

Thorn, Glastonbury, 76

Thrips, destroying, 1 39

Tiarella cordifolia, 98

Tomatoes, 28

Tools to use in potting, 130

Tremandra verticillata, 87

Tricyrtis hirta, 103

Trillium grandiflorum, 160

Tropaeolum azureum, 61, 165 ;
brachyceras, 61, 165 ; tri-
colorum, 165 ; tricolorum
Jaratti, 61

Tropaeolums, in ; climbing,
61

Troughs, zinc, for growing
plants in, 96

Tubers and bulbs for associa-
ting with Alpine plants in
flower from January to May,
153-156; half-hardy, 161 ;
for unheated greenhouse,

49
Tulipa clusiana, 160; fra-

grans; 160; retroflexa, 160
Tulips, dwarf, 50

VACCINIUM serpens, 190

Vallota purpurea, 64, 138,
165

Veltheimia viridifolia, 62, 165

Ventilation, 25, 26, 27

Veronica cupressoides, 173 ;
hulkeana, 74, 1 84 ; Hectori,
193; speciosa variegata, 184

248

INDEX

Veronicas, New Zealand, 74
Viburnum plica turn, 1 84 ;

lucidum, 76
Vine, ii

W

WALLFLOWER, Belvoir Castle,

109 ; Harbinger, 109
Wallflower, German double, in

the unheated greenhouse,
and sowing seed of, 109

Wardian-case, value of, 133

Watering plants, 137

Weigela hortensis mvea, 75

Watsonia Ardernei, 165 ; an-
gusta, 165

Watsonias, 62

Winter Sweet, 186

Wistaria, 76; sinensis, 184

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