Skip to main content

Full text of "Voyages and travels in the Levant in the years 1749, 50, 51, 52 : containing observations in natural history, physick, agriculture and commerce : particularly on the Holy Land and the natural history of the Scriptures"

See other formats 


4^ 


/^ 


r 


_^ 


4 


//^  ^ 


VOYAGE 


AND 


TRAVELS 


In  the  LEVANT 


In   the  Years    1749,   fo,   51,   52* 


V    O    Y    A     G     E    S 

AND 

TRAVELS 

In  the    LEVANT; 
In  the  Years   1749,   50,   51,   52. 

CONTAINING 

Obfervatlons  in  Natural   Hiftory,  Phyfick, 
Agriculture,  and  Commerce  : 

PARTICULARLY 

On  the  Holy  Land,  and  the  Natural  Hiflory  of  the 

Sc  RIPTURE  S. 

Written  originally  in  the  Swediih  Language, 

By  the  late  Frederick  HasselquistTM.  D. 

Fellow  of  the  Royal  Societies  of  Upsal  and  Stockholm. 

Publilhed,  by  Order  of  her  prefent  Majefty  the  Queen  of  Siueden 
By   CHARLES     LINN.EUS,  ^ 

Phylician  to  the  King  of  Sweden,  Profeffor  of  Botany  at  Upfal, 
and  Member  of  all  the  Learned  Societies  in  Europe. 


LONDON, 

Printed  for  L.  Davis  and  C.  Reymers,  oppofite  Gray's-Inn- 
Gate,  Holborn,  Printers  to  the  Royal  Society. 

MDCCLXVL 


•:0J  -gan  . 

"■•-^  fi  'gnibnft  . 

.  .Yio:friH  f': 


ADVERTISEMENT. 

A  Few  Copies  of  Dr.  Hasselquist's 
Travels  into  the  Holy  Land,  &c,  in  the 
Swedilh  Language,  having  found  their  Way 
into  this  Kingdom,  AppHcation  v/as  made 
to  an  ingenious  Gentleman,  who  had  lived 
fome  Time  in  ^^.v^den,  to  tranJlate  them 
into  Englifi.  An  Opportunity  of  furnii'hing 
the  Learned  of  this  Country  with  fo  curious 
a  Work,  was  not  difpleafmg  to  Orje,  who  had 
been  well  acquainted  with  the  Merits  and 
Abilities  of  the  Author,  being  himfelf  a  Pu- 
pil of  the  celebrated  Dr.  Linnaeus.  He  ac- 
cordingly undertook,  and  before  his  Depar- 
ture from  London  finilhed,  the  followins: 
Tranflation  ;  which  indeed  fuffers  in  point  of 
Stile,  from  the  Tranflator's  not  being  a  Native 
of  England,  and  from  his  adhering  too 
clofely  to  the  Idiom  of  the  Swedhh  Language: 
but  it  is  hoped  that  when  the  candid  Reader 
confiders  the  great  Difficulty  of  finding  a  Per- 
fon  Tufficiently  verfed  in  Natural  Hiftory,  and 
the  Swedifh  Language,  and  at  the  fame 
time  wilHng  to  undertake  fuch  a  Tafk,  he 
will  rather  forgive  Imperfedions,  than  wifli 
to  have  deprived  the  Republic  of  Letters  of 
fo  agreeable  an  Acquifition. 


ERRATA. 


For 

Read 

Fage      17,  Sec. 

raturaliiu 

?ic:fU'al  Cmiofitles,, 

29  line 

'9 

not. 

//fa'. 

32 

18 

was. 

as. 

77 

i? 

February, 

September. 

73 

35 

Officers, 

Officers  blades. 

ro9 

4 

even. 

ever. 

I  lO 

21 

unfit, 

only  fit. 

132 

I 

1 2  th  of  April, 

gth  tf  April. 

1^-7 

2 

here  againji  the  Be 

1S5 

2 

Mahhalia, 

Maimnalia. 

593 

10 

Pirus, 

Picus. 

594 

8 

Nuonida, 

Numic/a. 

200 

8 

Pirus, 

Picus. 

222 

17 

fcolubrina. 

coluhrina. 

225 

4 

Echencis 

Echeneis. 

251 

20 

veticum. 

(reticufn. 

274 

27 

Aga-onyx 

Jgat  ■  cnyx. 

^17 

Ichneumon 

Ichneumon. 

'     441- 

7 

Crab-Treee, 

Caroh-Tree, 

450 

20 

Mofes, 

Moffes. 

1S2 

J? 

a  fruit. 

a  fruitfuL 

C  O  N  T  E  N  TS. 

VOYAGE  to  Smyrna.  Page     I 

Travels  in  Natolia  to  Magnefia,  33 

Alexandria.  5  2 

Rofetta.  54 

From  Cairo  to  the  Pyramids.  66 

Defcription  of  the  Mecca  Caravan.  77 

The  Sepulchres  of  the  Mummies,  ^4. 

Damiata.  108 

The  Holy  Land.  116 

Jerufalem.  120 

Jericho.  125 

Bethlehem.  ^43 
Paleftine,  Syria,  Nazareth,  Tyre,  Sidon,  &c,     151 

Voyage  to  Cyprus.  169 

Voyage  to  Rhodes,  Chio  and  Smyrna.  17^ 

Natural  Curiofities, 

Quadrupeds.  183 
Birds.                                                                   -   193 

Amphibia,  214 

Fifh.  223 

Infers.  228 

Worms.  239 

Plants.  240 

Stones.  273 

Natural  Hiflory  of  Paleffine.  276 
Plants,  Animals,  &c.  mentioned  in  the  Scriptures.  286 

Materia  Medica.  293 

Difeafes  and  their  Remedies.  380 

Obfervations  on  Commerce.  395 

The  Author's  Letters  to  Dr.  Linnseus.  403 
The  Map  to  face  the  Title. 


Books  printed  for  L.  Davis  and  C.  R  e  y  m  e  A  s'. 

THE  Antiquities  of  Egypt  and  Nueia  ;  engraved  by 
the  famous  Mark  Tufcher,  of  Nurenburg,  from  near 
200  Defign'^,-  accurately  takfen  on  the  Spot,  by  Capr.  Norden, 
F.  R.  S.  elegantly  printed  on  a  Writing  Royal  Paper,  2  vol. 
Folio,  Price  bound  4I.  4s. 

_   Capt.  Norden's  Travels  in  Egypt   and  Nubia,  printed  in  one 
Volume  Oftavo,  with  Platesy  6s. 

The  Natural  Hiftory  of  Norway,  by  the  Right  Rev.  E.  Porr- 
toppidan,  BiHiop  of  Bergen  ;  with  28  Copper-plates,  Folio, 
Ptice  bound,  il.   is. 

Mr.  Bingham's  Antiquities  of  the  Chrifiian  Church,  in 
Twenty-three  Books ;  together  with  his  other  Pieces.  In  2  voh. 
Folio,  iiluftrared  with  Maps,  &c.  Price  i8s.  bound. 

The  Hillory  of  England  ;  as  it  relates  to  Religion  and  the 
Church.  By  F.  Warner,  D.  D.  Reaor  of  Queen  Hithe,  London, 
and  of  Barnes  in  Surry.   2  vols.  Folio,  pr.  2I.  2s. 

An  Ecclefiaftical  Hiftory ;  from  the  Birtl\  of  Chrift,  to  the 
prefent  Time.  Written  originally  in  French,  by  Mr  Formey, 
Secretary  to  the  Accademy  of  Sciences  at  Berlin.  To  which  is 
added,  an  Appendix,  giving  an  Account  of  the  People  called 
Methodifls.  2  vols,  price  bound,  los. 

A  Key  to  the  NewTeftament;  giving  an  Account  of  the  feveral 
Books,  their  Contents,  their  Authors,  and  the  Times,  Places, 
and  Occafions,  on  which  ihey  were  refpe£livel/  written.  V/ith 
an  Introduction,  c'oneerhing  the  Jewifh  Sedts  or  Parties  alluded 
to  in  the  Gofpels.    Price  zs.'  6d.  bound. 

The  Beauties  of  England,  comprehended  in  a  pocket  volume  : 
Giving  a  fuccindl  Defcription  of  the  Antiquities  of  this  Kingdom; 
the  Seats  of  the  Nobility  and  Gentry;  ti.e  Remains  of  Palaces, 
Monalleries,  Camps,  and  Caftles ;  the  Market- towns.  Cities,  Sec. 
the  two  Univerfities ;  London  and  WeftmiDfter.  Inrended  as  a 
Travelling  Pocket  Companion,  pointing  out  whatever  u  curious 
in  Art  and  Nature.     Price  bound  3s. 

A  Voyage  to  South  America,  defcribing  at  large  the  Spanifh 
Cities,  Towns,  and  Provinces  on  that  Continent,  with  their  Flif- 
tory,  natural,  commercial,  &c.  by  George  Juan  and  Ant.  de 
Ulioa,  F.  R.  S.  &c.  2  vol.  Svo.  with  Plates,  price  bound  1  2s. 

Travels  through  part  of  Europe,  Afia  Minor,  Syria,  PaleiHne, 
Mount  Sinai,  &c.  by  the  Hon.  Mr.  Van  l^gmonci  and  Profcflbr 
lleyman,  2  vol.  Svo.  with  Plates,  price  bound  los. 

Dr.  Kjempfer's  Hillory  of  Japan  and  Siam,  natural  and  civil, 
with  45  Copper-plates,   2  vol.-.  Folio,    price  bound  il.  los. 

Ant.quitates  Afiaticffi,  per  Edm.  Chilhull,  Folio,  Royal  Paper, 
price  boimd  il.  is. 

Mr  Chifhul's  Travels  in  Turkey,  with  a  Preface  by  Dr. 
Mead,  Fol:o,  prict  bound  1 5s. 


SOME 


A     G     C    O    U     N    T 

O  F 

Dr.    HASSELQ^IST, 

Written  by 

CHARLES    LINN^US,  M.  D. 

FREDERICK  HafTelquift  was  born  the  third 
of  January  1722,  at  Toernvalla  in  Eaft 
Gothia.  His  father  Andrew  HalTelquiftj  was  curate 
there,  and  had  the  leaft  income  of  any  clergyman 
in  the  diocefe.  He  died  during  the  minority  of 
his  fon,  in  indigent  circumftances  ;  his  mother 
Maria  Helena  Pontin,  being  weak  both  in  body 
and  mind,  was  put  into  the  infirmary  at  Vad- 
ftena.  This  Frederick  therefore  would  have  been 
unnoticed  in  life,  if  his  uncle,  the  Rev.  Mr.  Pontin, 
had  not  taken  cpmpafTionon  him.j  and  kept  him  wiih 
his  children  at  the  fchool  in  Linkceping  -,  but  he 
was  foon  deprived  of  this  Benefaflor,  and  obliged 
to  fupport  himfelf  by  teaching  young  children, 
until  he  was  of  age  to  go  to  the  Univeriity. 

In  the  year  1741,  he  came  to  the  Univerfity  of 
Upfala,  where  he  was  obliged  to  content  himfelf 
with  inftru6ling  others  for  trifling  gratifications, 
but  by  this  had  the  advantage  of  living  conftantly 
at  the  Univerfity,  and  daily  hearing  the  ledures 
of  the  Profeflbrs.  His  inclination  v;as  immediate- 
ly bent  for  Phyfic,  and  Natural  Hiftory  foon  be- 
came his  favourite  Hudy  j  he  had  alio  fome  talents 

A  for 


ii  SOME     ACCOUNT    OF 

for  Poetry.  The  Faculty  perceived  the  fervour 
with  which  our  youth  ftudied  thofe  Sciences  his 
inclination  led  him  to,  and  therefore  in  1746  gave 
him  a  royal  ftipend.  In  1747,  he  gave  the  firft 
proof  of  the  proficiency  he  had  made  in  his  ftudies, 
in  his  Differtation  on  the  Virtues  of  Plants,  which 
he  wrote  well,  and  defended  flrenuoufly.  In  one 
of  my  botanical  leftures  in  the  fame  year,  I  enu- 
merated the  countries  of  which  we  knew  the  Na- 
tural Hiftory,  and  thofe  of  which  we  are  ignorant. 
Amongft  the  latter  was  Paleftine ;  with  this  wc 
were  lefs  acquainted  than  with  the  remoteft  parts 
of  India-,  and  though  the  Natural  Hiftory  of  this 
remarkable  country  was  the  moft  neceffary  for  Di- 
vines, and  Writers  on  the  Scriptures,  who  have  ufed 
their  greateft  endeavours  to  know  the  animals 
therein  mentioned,  yet  they  could  not,  with  any 
degree  of  certainty,  determine  which  they  were, 
before  fome  one  had  been  there,  and  informed 
himfelf  of  the  Natural  Hiftory  of  the  place. 
This  is  the  more  furprizing,  as  Botany  is  much 
indebted  to  feveral  induftrlous  Divines,  who 
have  ftridly  examined  the  plants  of  other  coun- 
tries •,  but  though  many  of  the  Romifti  clergy 
travel  to  Paleftine  every  year,  not  one  has  ever 
troubled  himfelf  upon  this  fubjeft.  Hafielquift 
was  very  defirous  of  being  the  firft  who  fhould  in- 
form the  Public  of  the  Natural  Hiftory  of  Pa- 
leftine, and  was  determined  to  accomplifli  it. 
He  imparted  his  defign  to  me  foon  after,  but, 
furprized  at  his  enterprifing  fpirit,  I  reprefented 
to  hirn  the  length  of  the  way,  the  great  diffi- 
culties, the  many  dangers,  and  the  very  confi- 
derable  expences  which  would  attend  fuch  an  un- 
dertaking, and  laftly,  his  indifferent  ftate  of  health, 
in    particular   his    weak  lungs,    as  he   was   fub- 

jed 


Dr.     H  as  SEL  Q^U  1ST.  iii 

jed  to  fpitting   of  blood  :  bur   he   urged    it  the 
more,  as  weak  lungs  can  only  be  cured  by  travel- 
ling and  change  of  climate,    and  was  enough  de- 
termined in  his  refolution,  to   fay,  he  would  ra- 
rather  walk  all  the  way,  than  have    his  purpofes 
croffed.     His  mind  was  fixed  on  the  voyage  ;  he 
therefore  folHcited  for  fome  of  the  legacies  left  by 
perfons  of  diftinftion  for  thofe  who  intend  to  tra- 
vel, but  fortune  did  not  favour  him  in  this  attempt. 
He  prevailed   on    his  countrymen  to  contribute 
fomething   towards    this  journey  •,    when  he  had 
got  this,  he  follicited  the  Faculty  of  Phyficians 
and  they  gave  him  two  of  the  King's  ftipends,  the 
Faculty  of  Civilians  gave  one,  foon  after  the  Phi- 
lofophic,  and  at  length  the  Theologic,  gave  him 
each  a  ftipend.     But  how  little   was   this   propor- 
tioned   to    fuch    an   expenfive    undertaking  Haf- 
felquift  in    the    mean    time   was    preparing  :     he 
began  to  fludy  the  Arabian  and  other  eaftern  lan- 
guages •,  and   that  this  enterprize  might  not  ob- 
Itrucl  his  academical  ftudies  and  defigns,   he  gave 
the  ufual  fpecimens  of  his  abihties,  viz.   he    was 
examined,  he  wrote,  and  defended  his  Differration, 
for  the  Degree,  read  Lectures,  &c.  that  he  might, 
though  abfent,   receive   thofe  honours   in  Phyfic, 
which   a  youth  of  his   merit  and  learning  had  a 
right  to  claim  ;  therefore  the  degree  of  Doftor  of 
Phyfic  was  conferred  on  him  on  the  8th  of  March 
1 75 1,  at  which  time  he  was  in  Cairo.     The  Fa- 
culty was  well,  acquainted   with   his  induftry  and 
narrow   circumftances,    and   therefore    gave   him 
gratis  all   Lectures,  Examinations,  Prsfidii   and 
the  Promotion. 

In  the  fpring  1749,  Hafielquift  already  a  licen- 
tiate went  to  Stockholm,  having  firft  finifiied  hig 
academical  ftudies,  where  he  read  Ltdures  on  Bo- 

A  2  tany 


IV         SOME    ACCOUNT    OF 

tany  during  the  fummer,  and  got  the  good  graces 
of  every  lover  and  patron  of  this  Science.  He  pre- 
pared himfelf  every  day  for  his  Voyage,  and  the 
Levant  Company  offered  him  a  free  paflage  to 
Smyrna. 

The  7th  of  Auguft  he  went  on  board,  and  ar- 
rived at  Smyrna  on  the  26th  of  November.  It 
was  his  good  fortune  to  find  Mr.  Andrew  Ryde- 
lius,  Conful  General  from  Sweden,  at  Smyrna, 
who  was  his  countryman  and  relation,  and  re- 
ceived him  with  paternal  kindnefs,  and  forwarded 
his  undertaking  by  every  means  in  his  power.  He 
llaid  in  Smyrna  all  the  winter,  and  beheld  all  the 
produdions  of  nature  in  that  temperate  chmate. 
In  March  1750,  he  travelled  to  Magnejia  in  Na- 
tolia^  viewed  mount  Sipylus^  and  returned  again 
to  the  worthy  Rydelius  in  Smyrna. 

In  the  beginning  of  May  1750  he  left  Smyrna, 
travelled  by  way  of  Alexandria  and  Rofetta,  arriv- 
ed, in  July,  at  Cairo,  the  capital  of  Egypt ;  here  he 
remained  near  a  year,  and  had  the  befl  op- 
portunities of  informing  himfelf  of  the  fingu- 
larity  of  the  climate  for  which  it  has  always 
been  famous.  Here  he  viewed  the  Pyramids, 
one  of  the  feven  wonders  of  the  world  -,  de- 
fcended  into  the  fepulchres  of  the  Mummies;  ob- 
ferved  the  ftrange  rifing  and  falling  of  the  Nile; 
colleded  the  fcarcefl  produ£bions  of  Nature ;  and 
this  he  did  with  more  attention,  than  any  one 
had  done  before  him.  During  this  time  he  cor- 
refponded  diligently  with  his  friends  in  Sweden, 
and  filled  his  letters  with  curious  Experiments 
and  Obfervations,  which  were  inferted  in  the 
papers  printed  twice  a  week  in  Stockholm  under 
the  tide  of  Literary  News,  and  all  who  read  them, 
were  prepofTefTed  in  favour  of  this  attentive  tra- 
veller.   Our  HalTelquift  therefore  was  not  forgot 

in 


Dr:    HASSELaUIST.  v 

in  his  own  country.     The  Faculty  of  Phyficians 
propofed  him  as  Profeflbr  extraordinary  of  Phyfic 
to  the  vacant  place,  and  the  Royal  Academies  at 
Upfala  and  Stockholm  chofe  him   a  Member  of 
their  Societies ;    he  made  himfelf  worthy  of  thefe 
honours,  by  the  excellent  Obfervations,  which  he 
fent  to  both  Societies,  which  are  printed  in  their 
Tranfadlions.  In  thofe  of  Upfala  for  the  year  1750, 
are  inferted  his  Obfervations  and  Treatifes  on  the 
Egyptian  Acacia,  which  affords  the  Gum  Arabic, 
page  9.    The  Camel-Beer,^.  15.    The  Jumping 
Moufe,  p.  17.    Tht  Oriental  Thrujh.,  p.  2:.    The 
Coote,  p.  22.  The  Viper  of  the  Shops,  p.  24.  The 
horned  Viper,  p.  27.      The  horned  Snake.,  p.  28. 
The  Seine,  p.  30,  and  in  the  tranfadions  of  Stock- 
holm for  I  j^o.     The  Endemical  Difeafe  of  Aleppo, 
p.  136.   1751.     The  H^w/^,  p.  196.    The  i^it^d.- 
Tuition  of  Sal  Ammoniac,  p.  259.  1752.  The  Locujis, 
being  ufed  for  food  in  Arabia,  p.  76.  The  moun- 
tain Rat,  p.  123.     It  was  furprifing  to  fee  how 
anxious  the  nation  was  to  fupport  Dr.  HafTelquift, 
when  he  lived  in  an  expenfive  place,  where   he 
could   not  advance    a  ftep   without  confiderable 
charges,  and  wanted  money  to  accomplifli  his  de- 
fign.     The  lovers  of  Science  contributed  feveral 
times,  and  raifed  in  a  very  fhort  time  about  one 
hundred  and  ninety  pounds ;  an  inflance,  fcarcely 
to  be  met  with  amongft  the  raoft  opulent  nations. 
Dr.   Hasselquist    at    length    left  Cairo   in 
March  1751,  and  went  over  Damiata,  Jaffa,  and 
the  Holy  Land,     Hence  he  travelled  to  Jerufalem 
with  the  Pilgrims  who  intended  to  celebrate  their 
Eafter  there-,  and  thence  he  went  X.Q  Jericho,  J  or  dan, 
Bethlehem,  Acra,  Nazareth,  'Tiberias,  Cana,  Galilee, 
Tyre,  Sidon  ;  thence  he  failed  over  to  Cyprus,  Rhodes, 
Cbio,  and  arrived  fafe  at  Smyrna,  laden  with  an 

incr% 


vl         SOME    ACCOUNT    OF 

incredible  quantity  of  curiofities  collefted  in  the 
three  kingdoms  of  Nature,  being  the  produdions 
of  the  Eaft,  Egypt  and  Paleftine. 

Nothing  now  remained  but  to  wait  for  a  pro- 
per opportunity  of  returning  home  with  his  riches  ; 
but  his  ftrength  was  fpent  by  the  difficulties  he  had 
undergone  in  his  travels,  as  well  as  by  the  violent 
heat  of  the  climate  in  Paleftine  •,  and  whilft  he  in- 
tended to  recover  it  by  tarrying  in  Smyrna,  the 
ferpent  which  he  had  long  harboured  in  his  bofom 
awoke,  and  a  confuming  hedtic  fever  with  weak- 
nefs,  reftleflhefs,  fpitting  of  blood  and  fhortnefs  of 
breath,  confined  him  to  his  bed,  but  he  ftill  pof- 
feffed  that  hope,  which  is  peculiar  to  thofe  in  his 
condition.  He  defired  to  be  removed  out  of  the 
city  into  the  country,  to  enjoy  the  free  air,  and  ufe 
milk  as  his  only  refource,  which  was  accordingly 
done  ;  but  notwithftanding  all  this,  our  beloved 
Dr.  Hafielquift  wafted  away  daily  like  a  lamp 
■whofe  oil  is  fpent,  and  departed  this  life^  the 
9th  of  February  1752,  to  the  inexpreiTible  grief  of 
all  who  knew  him. 

We  were  immediately  informed  of  his  death  by 
Mr.  Rydelius,  whofe  love  for  Hafielquift  was  not 
to  be  extinguifiied  by  his  departure  •,  this  gentle- 
man alfo  added  to  our  forrow  by  giving  us  to  un- 
derftand,  that  the  late  Dr.  Hafifelquift,  had  con- 
tradled  a  debt  of  350/.  on  his  travels,  and  that  his 
creditors  had  at  the  time  of  his  death  taken  pof- 
fefllon  of  all  his  colletflions  of  natural  curiofities, 
obfervations  and  manufcripts,  v*hich  they  would 
not  part  with,  until  their  demands  were  fatisfied. 
Thus  did  we  lofe  our  v/crthy  and  dear  country- 
man ;  his  name  was  in  the  like  danger  •,  and  his  la- 
bours were  threatened  with  deftruftion  by  the 
hands  of  Barbarians.     We  knew  no  means  of  col- 

leding 


Dr.     H  a  S  S  E  L  QJJ  I  S  T.        vii 

letting  on  a  fudden  fuch  a  fum  of  money,  but 
the  worthy  Dr.  Bseck,  firft  Phyfician  to  the  Queen 
of  Sweden,  who  has  always  loved  the  Sciences, 
and  patronized  learned  men,  undertook  to  pre- 
fent  thefe  unhappy  circumftances  to  her  Majefty 
Queen  Louisa  Ulrica,  who  gracioufly  prote6ls 
Science,  and  is  pofleffed  of  a  moft  refined  tafte 
for  the  produdions  of  Nature.  Her  iMajefty  im- 
mediately refolved  to  pay  the  debt  out  of  her  own 
purfe,  and  redeem  the  Colle6tion,  without  which 
the  Public  would  very  late,  if  ever,  have  enjoyed 
this  Work.  The  next  year  all  thefe  treafures  ar- 
rived fafe  and  well  preferved  at  her  Majefty's 
palace  of  Drottningholm^  at  which  time  I  was 
ordered  to  attend,  and  was  aftonifhed  at  the 
fight  of  fo  many  unheard  of  curiolities.  The  col- 
lections of  dried  plants  from  Natolia,  Egypt,  Pa- 
leftine,  Cyprus,  &c.  all  the  Stones  and  forts  of 
earth  from  fo  many  remarkable  places  in  Egypt 
and  the  Holy  Land  ;  the  many  rare  FiJJjes  out  of 
the  Nile,  and  poifcnous  Serpents  from  Egypt,  the 
rare  Infe^s^  the  extenfive  coUediions  ot  Oriental 
Drugs,  Arabian  Manufcripts,  Egyptian  Mummies^ 
&c.  could  not  but  excite  the  admnration  of  the 
beholder. 

Last  year  Dr.  Hafielquift's  own  original  Ma- 
nufcripts  arrived,  with  the  principal  Obfervations 
he  had  made.  Her  Majelly  was  moft  gracioufly 
pleafed  to  order  me  to  arrange  and  publifh  them 
for  the  fatisfa6lion  and  advantage  of  mankind.  I 
have  accordingly  digefted  the  Work  in  the  beft 
manner  1  could,  ranged  every  thing  under  its  pro- 
per Tribe ;  added  Names  to  plants  and  animals, 
altered  the  Technical  terms  and  manner  of  writing, 
without  changing  in  the  ieaft  the  Author's  meaning: 
1  had  the  work  corrected  at  the  prefs,  and  myfelf  in- 

fpeded 


viii        SOME    ACCOUNT,    &c. 

fpe6led  its  publication.  I  imagined  it  needlefs  to 
add  Synonyms^  which  would  have  fwelled  the  book  j 
efpecially  as  they  may  eafily  be  found  in  the  tenth 
edition  of  my  Syftem  of  Nature,  in  which  I  have 
introduced  thefe  names. 

There  is  an  incredible  number  of  curiofities 
from  the  three  kingdoms  of  Nature  in  the  Collec- 
tion of  our  late  Author,  which  have  been  incor- 
porated with  the  cabinets  of  their  Majefties,  and  are 
already  defcribed,  and  may  foon  be  publillied  with 
pther  wonderful  produftions  of  Nature*. 

Her  Majefty  has  been  pleafed  to  give  me  a 
fpecimen  of  every  plant,  in  which  there  were  above 
two,  thefe  I  have  defcribed  in  another  Treatife,  un- 
der the  title  of  Flora  Palafiina  ;  and  therefore  think 
it  needlefs  to  enumerate  them  here,  as  I  would  not 
infert  any  thing,  which  did  not  come  from  the 
Author's  pen.  I  fhall  think  myfelf  happy,  if  I 
have  fulfilled  her  Majefty's  command,  and  anfwer- 
ed  the  expedlations  of  the  Public. 

*  Thefe  have  been  fince  publiihed  in  Oftavo,  under  the 
title  of  Mufaeum  Reginae. 


[  I  ] 


TRAVEL 


T  O 


HE      EAST. 


AUGUST  tKe  7th,  1749J  1  went  on  board 
the  lliip  Ulrica,  belonging  to  the  Swediili 
Levant  company,  which  was  now  about 
making  the  8th  voyage  to  Smyrna,  under  the  com- 
mand of  Captain  Ekeroth.  We  failed  from  Stock- 
holm at  ten  o'clock,  and  came  to  Skaggeharan  in  the 
evening,  where  we  lay  that  night. 

The  next  day  we  came  to  Diurhamn.  The 
wind  was  fbutherly,  which  obliged  us  to  tack  fre- 
quently ;  but  the  weather  was  very  fine.  Here  we 
lay  wind-bound  to  the  13  th. 

I  HAVE  always  had  a  great  inclination  to  botanize 
on  the  fea  coafl  of  Sweden,  and  now  a  fine  oppor- 
tunity offered  ;  but  this  opportunity  proved  inef- 
feftual,  as  the  hufbandmen  had  already  cut  down 
the  flowers  of  this  fummer.  I  was  neverthelefs  in 
hopes  that  the  fliore  would  in  fome  meafure  gra- 
tify my  curiofity,  and  therefore  on  the  12  th  went  on 
an  illandj  but  found  nothing  there  except  the  Glaux 

B  raaritima 


2         1:'RAVELS  TO  tHE  EAST. 

maritima,  Or  Sea  Milk  Wort,  and  Arenaria  fd^ 
plaides,  or  Sea  Chick  Weed,  which  was  already  in 
feed. 

The  rocks  here  feemed  to  be  fplit  by  the  waves 
in  large  perpendicular  clefts,  which  were  filled  up 
tl'ith  cleaf  quartz,  or  cryftallirie  matter,  by  whteh 
one  might  plainly  difcover  traces  of  the  generation 
of  this  flone.  The  1 3th,  at  two  o'clock  in  the  morn- 
ing, we  came  to  DalerOen',  where  We  anchored,  in 
Order  to  fhew  our  pafs  at  the  fort,  and  get  cuftom- 
houfe  officers  on  board  to  vifit  us.  Both  fides  of  the 
harbour  were  built  with  fmall  wooden-houfes,  Ivhich 
gave  the  place  the  appearance  of  a  little  town* 
Thofe  on  one  fide  are  called  lutholmen  and  the 
other  Dalereon.  The  inhabitants  of  both  places 
are  chiefly  pilots  and  filhermen.  They  catch  here, 
fometimes  in  large  quantities,  a  kind  of  fifli,  called 
by  LinnseuSjCottus  quadricornis  (Four-horned  Bull's 
bead).  The  fituation  of  the  place  was  very  difa* 
greeable,  being  furrounded  with  barren  mountains 
and  fandy  hills.  I  could  not  learn  that  they  had 
any  other  fign  here  of  the  change  of  the  wind;  but 
when  the  fea  fwells  towards  the  fliore  they  are  fure 
of  a  northerly  wind,  which  our  pilots  faid  they  knew 
from  long  experience. 

The  i4?;h,  we  failed  by  a  gentleman's  feat  called 
Sandmar:  here  there  is  an  elegant  garden  and  a  fine 
view  of  the  fea.  On  the  1 6th,  we  left  the  harbour 
of  Daleroe,  and  weighed  anchor  at  five  o'clock  in 
the  morning,  in  hopes  not  to  anchor  again  in  the 
Baltic,  which  happened  luckily  according  to  our 
wiilies. 

Land  SORT  was  the  lafl:  land  we  faw  on  the 
Stockholm  coalf  ;  there  is  a  light-houfe  here  for  the 
fervice  of  feamen.  Our  pilots  left  us  here,  and  our 
teamen  took  charge  of  the  fliip.  The  Captain, 
among  other  accounts  he  gave  us  of  his  travels,  as  we 

were 


t  O      S  M  Y  R  N  a;  5 

^'ere  Vvralking  the  deck  on  the  17th,  acquainted  us, 
that  he  had  carried  the  famous  King  Theodore  to 
Holland.  He  was  delivered  to  him  near  Corfica  by 
Captain  Blix,  a  commander  of  a  Swedifli  man  of 
war,  who  had  taken  him  under  his  protection,  when 
he  fled  from  Corfica.  Captain  Ekeroth  put  him 
in  a  Dutch  fifliing  boat  in  the  Texel.  His  retinue 
confided  then  of  a  footman  and  a  cook.  I  relate 
this  circumftance  for  the  fake  of  fome  future  Bio- 
grapher, to  whom  it  may  happen  to  be  unknown. 

The  high  fandy  mountains  of  the  ifland  of  Goth- 
land appeared  to-day  on  our  left,  looking  like  {o 
many  great  columns  at  a  diflance.  We  could  dif- 
cover  nothing  from  hence  through  our  glalTes,  but 
the  fleeple  of  a  church  *. 

Charles's  iflandswere  in  fight  on  the  1 8th,  in  the 
forenoon.  The  mountains  of  limeftone  on  the  fliore 
ftood  like  high  broken  walls  towards  the  fea.  Both 
iflands  were  fo  barren,  that  we  could  only  fee  two 
ilirubs  on  one  of  them.    . 

The  19th,  we  had  CEland  on  our  right. 

About  one  o'clock  on  the  20th,  a  httle  grey  bird, 
of  the  fparrow  tribe,  came  flying  clofe  after  our  fliip. 
The  Captain  faid  immediately,  that  it  fignified  a 
llorm.  Half  an  hour  had  fcarcely  paflTed,  before  we 
had  foil  rong  a  gale,  that  the  fea  beat  over  our  gunnel. 
I  have  afterwards  obferved  feveral  times,  both  in 
the  Baltick,  the  North  and  Spanifli  feas,  that  as  of- 
ten as  birds  came  on  board,  we  had  hard  weather, 
which  induces  me  to  believe  that  the  Peteril  (Pro- 
cellaria)  is  not  the  only  forerunner  of  bad  weather. 

The  ifland  Bornholm  was  the  firfi:  Danifli  land  we 
faw  on  the  2ifl:.  We  had  Scania  on  our  flar-board, 
and  were  in  fight  of  both  the  whole  day. 

The  2  2d,  we  came  near  the  fliore  of  Scania,  and 
in  the  evening  were  within  a  cannot  fliot  of  Trsellc^ 
'  Linnsei  Iter  Gothland.  282. 

B   2  Wr 


4         TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

borg.  The  fields  of  Scania  were  covered  with  Iheav^^ 
of  corn,  and  afforded  the  agreeable  fight  of  a  fertile 
country. 

We  lay  to  all  the  night  of  the  23d  within  fight 
of  Scania,  for  fear  of  running  a-ground  near  the 
Sound  in  the  night,  and  at  day-break  had  two  fine 
views :  one  on  fliore,  of  the  white  chalk  mountains 
of  Seel  and :  the  other  at  fea,  of  fome  llijps  which 
had  come  up  with  us  whilft  we  lay  by  in  the  night. 
Drakoe  is  a  handfome  village,  with  a  church  to  the 
left.  V/e  hoifted  our  flag  here,  and  got  three  Da- 
iiifli  pilots  on  board,  who  carried  us  paft  Copen- 
hagen for  fix  rixdollars.  We  faw  that  the  road  was 
dangerous ;  for  a  Dutch  fliip  had  yefterday  run 
s-ground  here  in  fine  w'eather,  and  was  now  fur- 
rounded  with  a  number  of  fmall  craft  from  Drakoe, 
which  were  employeti  in  getting  her  off.  We  faw  a 
fine  foreft  of  oak  between  this  village  and  Copen- 
hagen, where  there  is  penalty  on  any  one  who  at- 
tempts to  cut  the  timber.  About  noon.  We  were 
within  cannot  fliot  of  Copenhagen,  and  could  fee  the 
palace,  fleer,  arfenal,  and  fome  fine  churches.  Here 
the  Danifli  pilots  left  us,  after  they  had  truly  fore- 
told us  fine  weather^  We  could  fee  the  city  of  Malma^ 
with  its  churches,  and  large  houfes  from  the  ftarboard^ 
oppofite  Copenhagen.  A  handfome  beach  wood  came 
in  otir  view,  in  which  were  fome  fine  houfes;  this  was 
laid  to  be  the  royal  Danilli  deer  park.  The  whole 
coaff  IVom  Drakoe  is  very  beautiful  from  the  fea,  and 
Icems  contrived  by  nature  to  refrefli  and  give  plea- 
fure  to  feamen,  long  ufed  to  the  melancholy  prof- 
peel  of  nothing  but  fea  and  flvy.  We  faw  Land- 
fi.  rona  from  the  flarboard  at  tvvo  o'clock,  and  went 
quite  near  under  Hven,  which  was  entirely  unin- 
habited tovv-ards  this  fide.  In  the  afternoon,  we 
came  to  an  anchor  in  the  road  between  Helfing- 
borg  and  Helfingneur,  to  pay  toll  to  the  Danes. 

liclfin?- 


TO      S  M  Y  R  N  A,  5 

Heifingneiir  is  a  little  town,  the  v/alis  of  the  hoiifes  ' 
are  framed  v/ith  timber,  and  the  void  fpaces  filled 
up  with  either  brick  or  clay,  and  near  it  lies  the 
fortrefs  Cronenburg,  which,  from  its  outward  ap- 
pearance, feems  fufficient  for  what  it  is  intended,  a 
key  to  the  Baltick. 

I  WENT  up  to  town  the  24th,  where  every  thing 
that  can  accommodate  feafaring  peo|:le  is  fold  in  fuch 
plenty,  that  the  town  really  merits  the  name  of  a 
Mart  for  feamen. 

We  went  early  under  fail  the  2  6tb,  and  fleered 
for  Gottenburgh,  where  we  were  to  take  in  fome 
Eaft-India  goods  and  carry  them  for  the  Levant  com- 
pany's account  to  Smyrna.  Sullen  was  the  lad  hind 
of  Scania,  about  thirty  Englifli  miles  from  the  Sound, 
confifting  of  high  hills,  upon  which  there  is  a  light- 
houfe. 

TuE  27th,  I  faw  animals  and  vegetables,  the  like 
pf  which  I  had  never  before  feen.  The  former  were 
Sea-nettles  (Medufe),  which,  yeflerday  and  to-day, 
(hone  by  thoufands  in  the  fea,  and  in  calm  weather 
and  a  ferene  fky  afford  an  agreeable  appearance 
from  their  fkining  green  colour.  The  latter  were 
fea  weeds,  called  Fuci  Veficulofus,  Faftigiatus,  Sac- 
charinus,  to  which  hurig  a  vail:  number  of  the  (luall- 
eft  fliells.  We  could  fee  the  coail  of  Halland  before 
us.  The  28th,  early,  we  failed  pafl  the  town  and 
fortrefs  of  V/arberg  and  Nidingen,  which  is  the  firil 
iiland  on  the  Gottenburgh  coall,  where  there  is  a 
ijght-houfe. 

On  the  29th,  v/e  knew  we  were  not  far  from 
Gottenburgh,  by  difcovering  the  iiland  of  Vinga  and 
its  light-houfe,  foon  after  which  a  pilot  came  on 
board  us. 

VV  £    filled   pafl   the  fortrefs  of  Elffborg  about 
noon,  and  there  came  to  an  anchor.    This  fort  ap- 
peared to  be  in  a  good  flate,  and  well  fituated  to 
B  3  (;oranian4 


6        TRAVELS   TO   THE  EAST. 

command  the  harbour  of  Gottenburgh.  The  road» 
without  Gottenburgh,  hath  many  httle  rocks  lying 
clofe  to  one  another ;  fome  of  them  being  under 
water,  makes  the  navigation  dangerous.  The  Swedifli 
Eafl-India  company's  fliip  Gottenburgh,  was  lod 
three  years  ago  in  her  voyage  home,  on  one  of  them, 
within  the  fort,  which  cohjfirms  this  account  of  them. 
We  faw  Gottenburgh  the  30th,  which  is  known  to  be 
a  Ilrong  and  famous  trading  town,  and  the  befl  in 
Sweden  next  to  Stockholm.  We  had  fix  miles  to  row 
from  the  fort  to  the  town.  The  firfl;  objefts  that 
prefented  themfelves  to  our  view  in  the  harbour, 
which  is  large  and  fafe,  furrounded  with  high 
mountains,  were  fpmt  fmall  men  of  war  and  fri- 
gates ;  farther  up  five  Eafl-India  fliips  j  then  three 
or  four  dock  yards. 

The  faw  mill  is  built  on  a  rifmg  ground,  clofe  by 
the  harbour  ;  it  is  furnifhed  with  many  faws,  which 
are  worked  by  the  wind ;  and  is  fo  contrived,  as  to 
raife  the  timber  put  pf  the  fea.  We  came  out  of  the 
large  harbour,  through  a  flood-gate,  into  a  ditch  or 
walled  canal,  which  runs  through  the  town.  In  this  lay 
fmall  craft,  efpecially  Dutch  fmacks  that  were  em- 
ployed in  exporting  Eaft-India  goods.  The  town  is  of 
middling  extent.  The  houfes  are  generally  of  wood, 
fpme  few  of  ftone.  The  buildings  are  very  neat;  they 
are  covered  v/ith  deals,  which  are  painted  yellow  or 
red :  there  are  hnall  narrow  yards  to  each  houfe, 
which  make  the  place  dangerous  in  cafe  of  fire.  The 
court-houfe,  flate  houfe,  and  Eaft-India  houfe,  are 
the  largeft  and  handfomefl:  buildings  in  the  town. 

Here  I  fortunately  met  with  my  relation  Mr.  Guf- 
ftaviis  Tollander,  who  had  returned  this  fummer  from 
the  Eaft-Indies :  he  was  fo  kind  as  to  fliew  me  many 
curious  obfervations,  which  he  had  made  during  his 
flay  there,  efpecially  among  the  Chinefe.  I  viewed  at-^ 
tentively  the  Chinefe  weight,  apd  was  informed,  that 

the 


TO     SMYRNA,  7 

til  e  weight  China  was  divided  in  i  catche,  which  con- 
tains 16  teel;  I  teel  10  mees;  i  mees  locandrin;  i  can- 
drin  10  caas.  A  catche  is  equal  to  i  i-lb.  A  hundred 
catche  make  1421b.  The  common  money  weight 
contains  50  teel  in  China,  which  make  3  catche  and 
2  teel.  A  Spanifh  piece  of  eight  contains  7  mees  and 
4  candrin.  On  comparing  it  with  the  medical  weights, 
J  find  that  i  ounce  is  equal  to  8  mees. 

I  WAS  not  a  little  glad  to  meet  two  more  perfon$ 
from  the  Eafl-Indies  the  ill  of  September.  They 
were  clergymen,  and  had  returned  this  year ;  Mr. 
Thoren  in  the  fliip  Freden,  and  Mr.  Hiortberg  in 
the  fliip  Hoppet.  They  had  both,  befides  the  duty 
of  their  office,  purfued  the  fludy  of  natural  hiftoiy, 
agreeable  to  their  inflruftions  from  the  direftors 
of  the  Eaft-India  company,  which  they  performed 
with  honour  and  applaufe.  Mr.  Hiortberg  was 
now  bufy  in  finifliing  his  journal  ;  he  could 
draw,  which  made  it  an  eafy  matter  for  him  to 
adorn  his  book  with  the  figures  of  what  he  had  feen 
in  natural  hiftory.  He  had  in  particular  chofen 
filjies,  and  hath  made  fome  fine  obfervations  and 
figures  of  them,  but  efpecially  on  the  Hoimd-iifh 
(Squalus  Acanthis)  Scomber  Duftor,  and  R.smora 
(Echeneis).  He  had  likewife  coliefted  fome  iniecls 
and  vermes.  He  promifed  to  prefent  the  whole  to 
j:he  Royal  Swediih  Academy  of  Sciences.  Mr.  Tho- 
ren has  fhewn  himfelf  in  botany  a  worthy  difciple 
of  his  mafter  Dr.  Linnaeus.  His  coUeilion  of  piiiatj 
was  faid  to  be  very  confiderabie,  v*-hich  he  had  3.1- 
ready  delivered  to  Mr.  Lagerflroera,  who  fent  it  to 
Dr.  Linnceus,  by  him  to  be  made  public,  to  ^he  ho- 
nour of  the  coli^ftor  and  pleafure  of  the  lovers  of 
nature. 

The  2d  of  September  T  faw  feveral  natural  curi- 
ofities  from  Eail-India  and  China,  at  Mr.  Lager- 
(Iroem's,  one  of  the  Dirciflors  of  the  Eaft-India  cora- 

B  4  pany, 


8        TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

pany.  This  gentleman  has  for  feveral  years  been 
making  colle6lions  of  natural  curiofities.  Halle 
would  not  permit  mc  to  fee  more  than  a  large  col- 
lection of  fhells  and  handfome  corals,  efpecially  one 
that  had  a  large  piece  of  the  balls  left,  which  was 
clay.  This  gentleman  had  got  home,  in  the  lalt 
fhips,  four  gold  filh  in  frefh  water ;  they  were  from 
Canton,  and  quite  lively.  They  eat  wafers :  the 
manner  of  bringing  this  fifh  to  Europe  is  defcribe4 
by  Dr.  Linnaeus,  in  the  royal  Swediili  academy  of 
Sciences  for  1746.  A  heifer,  nine  months  old,  from 
China,  which  differed  in  nothing  from  our  cows  but 
that  flie  feemed  more  lively  and  fprightly,  as  if  ilie 
had  been  bred  up  in  the  fields  and  in  the  open  air, 
and  not  confined  in  a  narrow  hut  or  a  dark  ftable, 
which  always  give  creatures  a  fad  and  poor  appear- 
ance. She  was  of  a  red  brown,  fat  and  merry,  and 
the  voyage  feemed  to  have  had  no  bad  effect  on  her, 
A  live  plant  of  the  Bamboo  reed,  fo  much  ufed  by 
the  Chinefe;  the  item  was  an  inch  thick,  articulated, 
a  fpan's  length  between  the  joints ;  the  leaves  fword- 
iliaped,  the  whole  plant  was  two  feet  high.  Mr.  Ar- 
vidfon,  the  librarian,  {hewed  me  the  library  of  the 
college.  Seba's  excellent  book  was  the  dearefl  and 
bell  they  had.  They  had  already  made  a  handfome 
collechon  of  natural  curiofities,  amongft  which  were 
the  Flying-filli,  an  Eel  of  an  enormous  fize,  the  teeth 
of  a  Sea-horfe,  a  very  handfome  Lithodendron,  a 
Hair  Bali  ( iEgagropila)  of  a  Cow,  the  bignefs  of 
one's  fill,  a  Parcel  of  Petrefadtions  given  by  the  late 
Dr.  Stobcrus. 

The  cloaths  which  women  here  ufe  in  bad  wea- 
ther appear  ftrange  to  travellers.  They  throw  a  piece 
of  black  fluff,  four  feet  long,  over  their  heads  and  half 
their  bvodies,  fo  as  likewife  to  cover  their  faces.  It  is 
ufed  by  all  people  of  middling  fortunes,  and  hath 
without  doubt  been  introduced  by  the  foreigners, 

that 


T  O     S  M  Y  R  -N  A,  9 

that  firft  built  the  town,  nor  has  it  yet  undergone  the 
change,  to  which  the  drefs  of  women  is  liable. 

The  yth  infliant,  I  went  to  a  peafant's  houfe  in  the 
country,  where  the  window  was.  in  the  roof,  which 
'made  the  rooms  dark,  but  much  warmer:  In  Scania, 
SmOland  and  Bohus,they  ufe  the  fame  method.  Cab- 
bages were  planted  here  in  large  quantities  by  every 
farmer ;  and  I  am  told  that  this  ufeful  plant  is  more 
ufed  here  than  in  any  other  place. 

Early  in  the  morning  of  the  8th,  we  hove  up 
our  anchor  and  fet  fail  from  Elffbprg  fort.  We  faw 
Marftrandln  the  afternoon,  and  at  night  Skagens 
light-houfe. 

The  9th,  we  had  Jutland  on  our  larboard. 

On  the  ioth,  we  took  the  Efox  Roftro  Cufpi- 
dato,  Artedi  fpec.  2.  (Garfilli).  The  defcription 
comes  very  near  the  common  Pike ;  but  is  eafily 
diflinguiftied  by  its  long  rollrum.  The  fcales  were 
green,  the  whole  body  was  of  a  green  colour,  and 
its  back  and  fide  bones  were  green,  which  I  have 
hot  obferved  in  any  other  fifli. 

Thf  1 3  th,  we  had  a  Wefterly  wind  and  hard 
weather. 

On  the  15th,  fome  little  birds,  fuch  as  the  Red- 
ftart,  common  Swallow,  and  a  Sea  Swallow,  were 
driven  by  bad  weather  on  board  us,  before  we  per- 
beived  it ;  not  long  after  we  had  a  violent  florm  from 
theN.W.  which  lafted  for  three  days. 

The  20th,  fome  Chaffinches  and  a  Sea  Swallow, 
the  common  forerunners  of  bad  weather,  came  oil 
board  us.  In  the  evening  it  blew  a  flrong  cold  wind 
from  the  Weft,  which  was  foon  over. 

The  2  1(1:,  in  the  morning,  a  failor,  at  the  mad 
head,  faid,  he  faw  the  Dutch  coaft ;  our  Captain 
believed  us  not  fo  far  in  our  way,  and  therefore  re- 
garded it  not :  before  three  in  the  afternoon,  we 
^'  '"  faw 


Id       TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

faw  the  Englifh  coafl  about  Yarmonth,  from  th«; 
mafl-head,  by  which  we  knew  where  we  were,  and 
that  it  was  necefTary  to  be  upon  our  guard,  as  we 
were  between  the  EngUfli  banks.  The  founding 
lead  is  in  fuch  a  cafe  a  failor's  right  hand ;  and  it 
was  now  much  ufed  between  fear  and  hope.  Wq 
fopnded,  and  found  twenty  fathom,  and  immediately 
after  five,  which  continued  for  feveral  hours,  and  wa? 
a  fign  of  the  uncertain  ground  on  which  we  were, 
The  failors  believed  us  to  be  out  of  our  true  courfe, 
and  upon  fome  bank  not  put  down  in  their  chart. 
We  were  fo  lucky  as  to  have  excellent  weather,  and 
the  wind  proving  favourable,  which  brought  us  be- 
fore night  in  our  true  courfe. 

The  Dutch  havp  here  their  gold  mines,  for  fo 
We  may  juftly  call  their  herring  fifliery ;  nqr  can  it 
be  idenied  that  they  keep  nearer  their  neighbours 
than  their  own  properties.  We  failed  by  numbers 
of  their  boats  on  the  2  2d,  and  could  once  count 
above  t\iiTty  on  a  little  fpot. 

On  the  23d,  we  entered  the  narroweil  part  of 
the  channel,  between  France  and  England,  and 
could  fee  the  coafts  of  both  thefe  powerful  kingdoms 
at  the  fame  time.  We  were  very  near  the  latter,  and 
could  without  a  glafs  fee  its  chalky  hills,  covered  with 
ilints,  and  Dover  fort  fituated  pn  the  fummit  of  them. 
A  gopd  wind  and  excellent  weather  drove  us  over 
thofe  dangerous  fhoals,  that  have  been  fp  fatal  to 
failors.  The  25th,  about  noon,  we  came  into  the 
Spanifhfea,  having  in  two  days  and  a  half  failed  540 
jnile§,  being  the  whole  length  of  the  channel. 

OuK  Swedifh  jBag  hath  nothing  to  fear  from  the 
rovers  of  the  co^ift  of  Barbary,  as  long  as  the 
Swediih  crown,  to  the  great  advantage  of  our  trad^, 
keeps  at  peace  with  the  moil  powerful  of  them. 
A  fe^v  fmall  rovers,  from  the  ports  of  Salee  and 

Tangier, 


TO      SMYRNA.  u 

Tangier,  that  Ibmetimes  infefl:  thefe  feas,  are  the  only 
pirates  againft  whom  the  Swedes  fhould  be  particu- 
larly cautioned :  and  as  an  enemy  ought  never  to  be 
defpifed,  we  put  our  cannon  in  order,  and  the  2  6th 
gave  arms  to  as  many  as  were  on  board.  In  this 
pofture  our  velTels  commonly  fail  until  they  have 
palTed  Gibraltar. 

The  28th,  at  noon,  we  were  in  fight  of  the  fa- 
mous head,  beyond  which  the  ancients  thought 
there  was  no  land,  and  were  fo  near  the  fliore  that 
fome  Linnets  (Fringilla)  reached  us,  and  wearied 
out,  fought  a  night's  reft  in  the  fhelter  of  our  fails. 

The  30th,  as  we  were  failing  in  the  Spanifh  feas, 
the  weather  was  fo  fine,  that  it  feemed  as  if  the  fky 
and  fea  ftrove  to  excel  each  other  in  beauty.  The 
little  knowledge  I  had,  was  confined  to  the  three 
kingdoms  of  nature,  and  therefore  I  found  myfelf 
in  the  fame  fituation,  as  a  perfon  who  walks  in  a  park 
filled  with  the  finefl  animals  and  plants,  without  un- 
derftanding  natural  hiftory.  Such  a  one  can  fay  no 
more,  but  that  it  is  very  handfome.  I  doubL  not  but 
many  fine  opportunities  paiTed  unobferved  by  me, 
which  might  have  given  hints  for  ufeful  obferva- 
tions  to  a  perfon  who  had  any  knowledge  in  aftro- 
nomy  and  natural  philofophy.  We  had  now  paffed 
by  St.  Vincents  head,  which  is  a  head-land  wellknowii 
tQ  failors,  when  we,  .the  9th  of  October  in  the 
morning,  overtook  a  Dutch  frigate  of  war,  which 
was  carrying  home  a  Tripoline  Aii  Effendi,  who 
returned  from  his  embafly  to  the  Dutch  republic, 
and  was  the  fame  that  fqme  years  before  had  been 
in  Stockholm  on  the  fam.e  errand.  It  feemed  very 
fuipicipus,  confidering  the  place  we  were  in,  to  fee 
Turks  on  board  a  fliip,  and  a  number  of  armed 
men,  who  hoifted  no  flag  when  we  did  ;  this  occa- 
fiQned  qUr  feamea  to  anii  themfelves  for  their  de- 

:e; 


12      TRAVELS  TO   THE  EAST. 

fence ;  but  our  fufpicions  ended,  when  the  lleute? 
nant,  with  a  fubahern  and  eight  men,  came  on  boar4 
to  enquire  whence  we  came,  and  whither  we  were 
bound. 

Here  we  obferved  large  droves  of  PorpulTe? 
coming  from  the  W.  towards  the  S.  E.  which  were 
the  firft  we  had  feen  fmce  we  left  the  North  fea. 
The  failors  fay  they  foretell  bad  weather,  when  they 
appear  on  the  furface  of  the  water,  efpecially  in 
thofe  places  to  which  they  direct  their  courfe.  But 
they  were  miHaken  this  time  ;  for  the  fine  weather, 
which  we  had  through  the  Spaniili  feas,  continued 
with  violent  heat  for  fome  days. 

The  1 1  th,  we  were  the  whole  day  in  fight  of  the 
African  coafl:,  and  towards  evening  had  the  Spanifli 
coafl  on  our  right  as  before.  We  were  no'yv  yery  near 
going  into  the  Mediterranean  fea  ;  but  were  obliged 
to  be  content,  and  cruize  for  two  days  between  the 
Spanifh  and  African  coaft,  on  account  of  a  briflv: 
Eafterly  wind. 

The  14th,  in  the  afternoon,  we  went  througli 
the  ftrait  that  divides  Africa  from  Europe.  High 
limeflone  mountains  were  to  be  feen  on  both  fides 
of  the  channel,  out  of  which  there  came  the  fraoak: 
of  many  fires,  which  are  lime-kilns,  that  they  have 
in  the  clefts  of  the  rocks  of  both  coafis.  Befides 
thefe  lime-fiione  mountains,  we  could  fee  others  of 
loofe  fand.  which  were  not  fo  deep,  but  more  gra- 
dually declining  to  the  fea.  They  were  quite  green, 
covered  with  fome  flirubs,  and  had  fome  vineyards. 
The  profpeft  of  thefe  mountains  was  far  from  being 
agreeable.  The  ornament  of  the  Northern  moun- 
tains, Ever-green  Pines  and  Jimipers,  are  not  to  be 
feen  here. 

Vf  E  faw  the  town  and  fortrefs  of  Gibraltar  the 
15th;  they  are  fituated  on  a  high  rock,  that  termi' 

"      ■'        •       •    •  <■  natej^ 


^r  6     SMYRNA.  ii 

Hates  the  Spanifh  mountains  towards  the  fea.  Ceuta 
lies  ahnoft  facing  it  on  the  African  coaft.  When 
thefe  are  out  of  fight,  the  Straights  are  paffed,  and 
another  fea  is  entered. 

We  faw  the  Mediterranean  by  fun-rife,  and 
failed  along  the  Spaniili  coaft,  to  which  feamen 
always  keep  nearer  than  the  African.  A  beauti- 
ful little  bird  (Motacilla  Hifpanica)  came  on  board 
lis  from  the  Spaniili  coaft.  It  was  the  forerunner  of 
hard  weather,  which  happened  to  us  a  few  hours 
after,  with  a  flrong  N.  E.  wind,  which  lafted  all 
night.  We  had  violent  thunder  and  lightning,  with 
hail  and  rain,  in  the  night  of  the  i8th,  which 
was  an  uncommon  fight  for  Swedes.  We  were  yet 
in  fight  of  the  high  Spanifh  mountains,  which  by  day 
we  faw  covered  with  fnow,  and  at  night  fhining  with 
fires,  which  are  partly  thofe  of  the  guards,  and 
partly  thofe  of  the  lime-kilns.  We  caught  a  Lark 
and  a  Wagtail  (Motacilla  corpore  e  fufco  viride- 
fcente,  peftore  ferrugineo)  on  board.  Many  of  thd 
former  were  drowned ;  only  this  one  came  in  a  mife-^ 
table  weak  condition  on  board. 

The  25th,  in  the  forenoon,  we  had  Forraentera 
on  our  left.  This  is  an  ifland  in  the  Mediterranean, 
over-againft  the  Spanifh  coaft,  upon  which  we  cotild 
only  fee  a  few  buflies  j  its  fliores  rife  perpendicular 
from  the  fea. 

We  experienced  for  fome  days  the  autumn  of 
this  climate ;  ftorm,  cold  weather,  rain,  and  at  night 
terrible  lightenings ;  but  at  nine  o'clock,  in  the  night 
between  the  28th  and  29th,  twelve  miles  to  the 
Weft  ward  of  Sardinia,  we  had  the  moft  terrible  and 
fevere  weather  that  we  had  yet  fuffered  in  our  voy- 
age. The  wind  from  the  North,  attended  with 
violent  hurricanes  and  lightening  from  all  parts  of 
the  iky,  with  fome  thunder  :  then  a  fhower  of  rain, 

with 


14      TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

with  liail ;  but  this  did  not  lafl  above  half  an  hour.; 
The  hail  flones  which  fell,  were  partly  of  an  ova! 
form,  fome  round,  fome  elliptical,  others  angulated. 
The  largeft  were  bigger  than  walnuts,  the  leffer  like 
liiitmegs.  The  outfide  was  white  and  clear,  with  a 
kernel  in  the  infide,  Which  was  blueifli,  and  the  big- 
nefs  of  a  pea.  I  found  fome  of  them  that  weighed 
an  ouncei 

The  ill  of  Novemiber  we  could  fee  the  African 
coaft  from  the  mad-head ;  from  thence  a  bird  called 
Emberiza  africana  came  on  board  us. 

The  2d,  we  failed  by  Sicily,  with  a  ftrdng  North 
wind  :  jufl  before  this  we  had  feen  fome  PorpuiTeSi 

An  innumerable  flock  of  Sparrows  (Emberiza 
melitenfis)  furrounded  our  vefTel  on  the  3d,  and  im- 
mediately after  we  had  a  hard  gale  that  lafled  all 
the  following  day. 

The  7  th,  we  were  in  fight  of  the  coaft  of  Mo* 
rea,  when  a  Levant,  i*  e.  a  N.  E.  wind  met  us,  and 
obliged  us  to  Cruize  to  the  nth,  without  gaining 
the  leaft. 

Early  on  the  1 2th,  we  had  Candia  and  Cerigo  on 
our  left. 

The  13th,  we  faw  Morea  to  the  left>  and  Milo 
to  the  right,  when  we  were  in  hopes  foon  to  end 
our  voyage,  and  the  fine  weather  we  now  had^  made 
fome  amends  for  the  difagreeable  neceffity  of  being 
fo  long  at  fea.  But  our  happinefs  was  at  an  end 
in  the  afternoon.  The  nearer  a  failor  comes  to 
the  fliore,  the  furer  he  may  be  of  inconftant  wea- 
ther. A  North  wind  met  us  with  a  moft  dreadful 
ftorm,  and  obliged  us  to  drive  about  for  two  days* 

It  was  lucky  for  us,  that  on  the  15th  we  were  fo 
near  Milo,  that  we  could  run  in  during  fuch  a  fu- 
rious ftorm.  The  harbour  of  Milo  is  one  of  the 
beft  in  the  Archipelago,  furrounded  with  mountains 
on  all  fides,  of  which  one  hath  a  ruined  caftie  and 

% 


To     SMYRNA.  Ijf 

a  village  at  the  entrance,  which  without  doubt 
hath  one  of  the  higheft  fituations,  and  moft  exten* 
five  horizons  of  any  in  the  univerfe.  We  came  to 
an  anchor  in  full  twenty  fathom  water.  The  depth 
bf  the  water  in  this  harbour,  makes  it  of  much  more 
confequence  in  bad  weather. 

The  1 6th,  in  the  forenoon,  we  rowed  a  {hore, 
and  went  up  to  the  town  of  Milo.  I  was  glad  to 
find  fome  plants  in  bloflbm  at  this  time  of  the  yeaf ^ 
though  autumn  had  already  taken  hold  of  the 
greater  part,  and  of  thofe  the  withered  remains  were 
only  now  to  be  feen.  The  firfl  I  faw  was  the  au- 
tumnal Dandelion,  which  grows  in  Sweden,  and 
flowers  about  the  fame  time.  The  Anemone  Coro- 
tiaria  was  in  full  blolTom,  fome  of  which  were  white, 
others  blue.  Nerium  (Oleander)  flood  in  two  places 
in  large  bufties  befide  the  road,  and  adorned  the 
place  with  its  fliff  green  leaves  and  long  pods,  buc 
had  not  yet  ripened  feeds.  A  Fig-marigold,  half  a 
foot  high  (Mefembryanthemum  Nodiflorum)  grew 
in  all  the  fields,  with  little  obtufe  and  fucculent 
leaves,  without  flowers.  In  the  wall,  grew  two 
Ihrubs  or  buflies  four  feet  high  ;  one  of  them  had 
little  oval  green  leaves,  without  flowers  (Pihamni 
Species) ;  the  other  had  hoary  leaves,  which  I  like- 
Wife  defcribed.  The  road  was  full  of  pebble  flones 
and  clear  quartz  in  fmall  pieces,  red  and  white  fpar, 
befides  fand-ftone  and  hard  lime-flone.  On  both 
fides,  the  walls  round  the  gardens  were  built  with  a 
rough  fand-fl:one,  with  which  was  mixt  with  fome 
coarfe  light  yellow  clay  in  large  pieces ;  this  was  in 
fome  places  turned  quite  red  by  the  heat  of  the 
fun. 

After  walking  near  a  mile  from  the  fliore,  we 
came  into  the  town.  The  fight  of  it  could  not  but 
excite  the  compalfion  of  the  beholder,  as  nothing 


i^      TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

was  to  be  feeii  but  the  remains  of  ruined  houfes* 
ibrmerly  ilately,  built  of  fquare  lime-ftone.  Withirf 
thefe  poor  walls,  lived  miferable  inhabitants,  whofe 
dwellings  differ  from  the  word  of  prifohs,  only  as 
thefe  receive  light  through  the  door,  inflead  of  the 
windows,  and  have  the  liberty  of  going  in  and  out 
of  them.     We  went  immediately  to  the  Dutch  Con- 
ful,  and  after  dinner  with  the  Venetian  Conful,  to 
fee  the  principal  church.     On  the  iliore  I  found  the 
Nerium  (Oleander),  Erigeri  S'pecies,  Fig-marigold, 
&c.     In  the  gardens,  which  are  bad,  are  very  large 
Palm-trees,  fome  Fig-trees,  fome  large  old  builies 
of   Rofemary,    Narciffus,    Marjoram',   which    was 
there  reckoned  a  rare  plant,  and  was  almofl   the 
only  one  kept  in  pots.     Wild  fowl  they  have  in' 
plent)^     Amongft  them  they  had  a  black  game, 
larger  than  the  Swedifli  j  this  Was  a  rare  bird,  fo 
far  to  the  Southward.     The  town,  though  poor, 
is  full  of  people.     Children  come  out  of  every 
corner,  but  all  miferable.     The  better  fort  dwell 
in  the  firil  floor,  but  their  dwellings  were  alike 
bad.  Here  are  two  Greek  churches ;  but  no'  Romiih' 
chapel  or  miffionary.     I  went  into  one  of  the  above 
churches,  which  made  a  tolerable  appearance.  They 
fhewed  me  a  curiofity,  which  deferved   attention. 
It  was  a  piece  of  a  fliip's  plank,  bored  through 
by   a  fiilibone,  which  was  part  of  the  tooth   of 
the  Monodoii   (Unicorn   fifli);     A    French   Cap- 
tain had  found  it  in  the  keel  of  his'  lliip,  as  fhe 
was  careening  iti  Moirea.     He  cut  out  the  piece 
and  took  it  to  this  place,  to  be  hung  up  in  the 
church.    It  was   curious,  but  not   miraculous,   as 
thefe  good  people  imagined.     The  French  have 
here  a  Conful  of  their  nation ;  the  Duch  and  Ve- 
netians have  each  one  from  among  the  Greek  in- 
habitants.   There  is  no  Turk  in  this  ifland.     The 

Captain 


TO      SMYRNA. 


17 


captain  Pafcha  fends  a  galley  here  while  he  cruizes 
in  the  Archipelago  to  fetch  the  Turkifli  emperor's 
yearly  tax,  which  is  high  enough  confidering  the 
poverty  of  the  country  and  the  fcarcity  of  money. 
It  is  governed  by  primates,  who  colieft  and  ac- 
count for  the  taxes,  and  compound  differences. 
The  people  in  general  are  very  friendly  and  polite. 
The  women's  drefs  is  one  of  the  oddeft  and  lead 
becoming  of  any  of  the  iflanders  in  the  Archi- 
pelago. They  were  naked  from  the  neck  to  the 
waifl,  and  had  ailiort  petticoat  reaching  to  the  mid- 
dle of  the  thigh,  a  loofe  garment  covered  the 
head,  and  their  plaited  hair  hung  down  to  the  fmali 
of  the  back.  The  ifland  produces  fome  cotton,  which 
the  French  and  Venetians  buy.  They  alfo  have 
bad  wine. 

The  1 8th,  after  taking  a  pilot,  who  was  to 
conduft  us  through  the  Archipelago,  we  fet  fail. 

The  19th,  we  faw  the  ifland  Parfo.  The  20th, 
Tins,  Negropont ;  and  the  21  ft,  we  anchored  on 
the  coaft  of  Karuburno,  which  is  on  the  continent 
of  Natolia ;  we  had  Natolia  on  the  one  fide  and 
Scio  on  the  other.  I  went  on  fliore  the  fame  day, 
but  found  nothing  to  reward  my  labour,  except  the 
common  wild  Thyme.  Haliotis  (Scar  Ear)  and  Pu- 
mex  (Pumice  ftone)  were  the  other  naturalia  found 
here. 

The  25th,  we  failed  under  Scio,  and  had  an 
opportunity  of  feeing  its  handfome  town,  which 
makes  a  fine  appearance  ;  but  the  plantations  and 
gardens  are  a  more  material  ornament,  as  they 
produce  the  famous  Maflix. 

The  26th,  we  came  in  the  Gulph  of  Smyrna, 
and  had  Natolia  on  both  fides. 

The  27th,  we  had  like  to  have  made  an  unfortunate 
.  end  of  our  vova^e.  at  a  time  we  thought  our  mif- 

C  ""■    fortunes 


i8      TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

fortunes  were  all  over.  Wc  had  the  wind  con- 
ftantly  a-head,  which  obliged  us  to  beat  up  be- 
tween two  fliores;  this  is  dangerous  in  a  narrow  chan- 
nel. By  failing  too  near  the  land,  at  day  break, 
we  run  aground.  A  Greek  and  a  Turk,  who  were 
fiihing  on  the  fliore,  came  immediately  on  board, 
and  offered  us  their  aiTiflance  in  procuring  fmall 
veffels  to  lighten  ours;  but  a  land  breeze  filled  our 
fails  and  help'd  us  off.  At  noon,  we  anchored  without 
the  Caflle  of  Smyrna,  which  commands  the  en- 
trance, when  Meffieurs  Palm  and  Hebbe,  our  Swe- 
dilli  merchants,  came  on  board.  We  went  into  the 
harbour,  and  were  faluted,  according  to  cuftom, 
'by  the  guns  of  all  the  velTels,  except  the  French, 
who  never  honour  any  nation  with  a  falute,  nor  re- 
ceive it  from  them. 

We  went  on  (liore  in  the  afternoon  with  the 
.captain,  and  were,  by  our  conful  Mr.  llydelius,  re- 
ceived with  a  politenefs  to  be  expelled  from  a 
gentleman  of  his  noble  qualifications. 

The  29th,  I  waited  on  Mr.  Peyfonel,  the  French 
conful,  and  member  of  the  Academy  of  infcri  ptions 
und  belles  lettres.  To  his  great  knowledge  I 
am  indebted  for  the  following  obfervation  relating 
to  natural  hiftory.  Corals  have  in  our  age  been  e- 
lleemed  a  proper  fubjeft  for  the  pens  of  the  greatefl 
naturahfts.  Nature  hath  fo  contrived  this  part  of 
her  works,  that  Corals  have  had  a  contrary  lot 
from  other  naturalia,  and  have  been  claffed 
under  the  different  kingdoms  of  nature.  And 
it  is  yet  uncertain,  to  which  they  properly  be- 
long. In  Mr.  Peyfonel's  company,  the  learned 
Count  MarGgli  had  the  good  fortune  to  overcome 
all  the  doubts  he  had  entertained  about  thefe  na- 
turalia, when  in  his  invaluable  HifLoria  Maris  he  laid 
before  the  world  what  he  took  to  be  the  flowers  of 

the 


TOSMYRNA.  ip 

the  Corals.  At  that  time  they  were  thought  to  be 
vegetables.  We  know  of  none  who  immediately 
diiTented  from  this  opinion.  Mr.  Peyfonel,  by 
fome  obfervations  he  made  on  the  French  coaft, 
before  Marfigli  printed  his  book,  had  reafon  to 
think  otherwife,  experience  convincing  him  that 
Corals  were  inhabited  by  worms.  Mr.  Peyfonel 
did  not  make  natural  hiftory  his  chief  ftudy ;  he 
did  not  fet  much  value  on  thefe  obfervations,  yet 
communicated  them  to  his  brother,  a  learned 
phyfician,  who  intended  to  publifli  them. 

At  length,  Count  Marfigli  anticipated  Mr.  Pey- 
fonel, who  fupprelTed  his  and  his  brother's  obferva- 
tions; but  afterwards  informed  Mr.  Reaumur  of 
them,  who  knew  hov/  to  make  ufe  of  fuch  a  con- 
fiderable  fpeculation.  Mr.  Reaumur  gave  it  in  to  the 
Royal  Parifian  Academy  of  Sciences  augmented  with 
his  own  obfervations;  nor  omitted  to  attribute  the  ho- 
nour to  the  real  difcoverer.  This  was  the  rife  of  an 
opinion  about  Corals,  that  fmce  hath  been  thought 
worth  the  enquiry  of  the  learned,  and  has  received 
an  almoft  univerfal  applaufe,  which  the  inventor  ne- 
ver expefted 

A  TRAVELLER,  who,  either  for  his  pleafure  or 
fome  ufeful  purpofe,  v/ould  chufe  to  be  acquainted 
with  the  ceremonies  of  thofe  religions  which  have 
claimed  the  attention  of  mankind,  fhould  vifit 
fome  city  in  the  Levant,  where  he  will  fee  them  all, 
except  idolatry.  Many  Chriilians  imagine  that  the 
Greek  church  comes  nearefl  with  refpe6l  of  ceremo- 
nies, to  that,  which  was  predominant  at  the  begin- 
ning of  chriftianity.  I  faw  thofe  of  the  church  of  Smyr- 
na fo remarkable  for  her  antiquity,  andyet  more  for 
having  preferved  herfelf  in  the  tolerable  fituation 
{lie  now  is  in,  though  perfecuted  by  the  Pope  and 
Turk,  while  her  fillers  are  fcarcely  known  here! 

C  2  Thel 


20       TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

The  ehurcli  of  Smyrna  hath  a  billiop,  fucceflbr  to 
him  who  received  this  remarkable  title  from  the 
fupreme  Shepherd.  His  poAver  is  limited  to  thofe 
who  live  in  this  city,  of  whom,  by  contributions  and 
money  for  ceremonies,. he  hath  his  revenue,  which 
is  one  of  the  mofl  confiderable  among  the  Greek 
clergy. 

Few  of  thofe,  who  have  publiilied  travels,  have 
given  us  any  account  of  the  ftate  of  phyfick  out  of 
Europe.  Few  phyficians  have  travelled  out  of  the 
circle  of  the  learned  world;  though  others  have 
been  attentive  to  what  regards  their  refpe£tive  pro- 
feffions.  I  have  thought  it  my  duty  to  make  myfelf 
acquainted  with  what  regards  medicine  in  thofe  pla- 
ces through  which  I  went.  Smyrna,  in  the  time 
the  Grecians  made  phyfick  a  part  of  heavenly 
doctrine,  was  adorned  with  temples,  facred  to  the 
God  of  Health  and  Medicine.  They  ftruck  medals 
in  honour  of  thofe  who  praclifed  this  facred  fcience, 
and  with  judgement  adminiftered  thofe  remedies, 
which  Providence  had  revealed  to  them  \  Time  hath 
greatly  changed  the  ftate  of  this  Science  here.  The 
Greeks  have  yet  remaining  fome  fparks  of  that  fire, 
which  fhone  in  their  fore-fathers ;  but  which  would, 
without  doubt,  be  extinguiilied,  if  a  few,  more  en- 
couraged by  the  hope  of  getting  a  living  than  out 
of  love  for  the  fcience,  had  not  determined  to  acquire 
knowledge  in  our  learned  Europe.  There  are  fome 
Greeks  to  be  found  in  Conftantinople  and  Smyrna, 
who  have  fludied  phyfick,  chiefly  in  Padua :  mofl  of 
them  born  on  fome  iiland  in  the  Archipelago.  Scio, 
in  particular,  has  a  number  of  tolerable  phyficians, 
and  alfo  fupplies  other  places  with  them;  I  know 
not  what  pretenfions  iflands  have  to  furniHi  good 

»  See  Mead,  Orat.  de  Honor.  Med. 

phy- 


TOSMYRNA.  21 

phyficlans:  Stanchio  (Cous)  and  England  afford  us 
remarkable  examples.     I  had  an   opportunity  of 
making    thefe  obfervations,    on  the    9th  of  De- 
cember, when   I   was  called  to  a  confultation,   to 
enquire   into  the  difeafe   of  their   chief   brother 
phyfician,  a  Greek  from  Scio,  who  died   vrithin 
a  few  days  of  an  Aflhma  convulfivura.     He  obler- 
ved  flri^lly  the  rule  he  had  followed  in  his  praclice, 
to  leave  all  to  nature,  without  ufmg  any  drugs,  un- 
iefs   dicetetical.     Thefe   are   almoft  the  only  drugs 
prefcribed  by  the  phyficians  in  Smyrna,  and  the  diet 
confifls  in  a  fort  of  failing.  They  give  for  reafoa,  that 
the  air  is  nouriiliing,  and  fufficient  to  keep  the  fick 
in  life;  but  this  convinced  me  of  my  former  experi- 
ence, that  the  moil  falutary  rules  may  prove  detri- 
mental, when  carried  too  far,  and  not  apphed  to 
circumilances.     The  phyficians  here,  in  my  time, 
were  Doctor  Demetri,  who  was  above  80  years  old, 
was  born  in  Scio,  had  travelled  through  England 
and  Germany,  praftifed  nine  years  in  St.  Efprit,  the 
chief  hofpital  in  Rome,  and  in  his  youth  had  acqui- 
red fome  knowledge  in  botany,  which  he  did  not 
negleft,  as  he  at  this  age  had  a  complete  knowledge 
of  Ray's  and  Tournefort's  fyltems.     I   gave    him 
fome  idea  of  Dr.  Linnseus's  famous  fyflem.     He  re- 
ceived my  informations   in  the   fame  manner,  as  an 
aged  foldier,  incapable   of   attending  battles    and 
fieges,  is  yet  rejoiced  to   hear  of  new  expeditions. 
Dr.  Zani  was  the  other  of  the  faculty  in  Smyrna ; 
he  appeared  to  be  ayoung,  handfome,  and  naturally- 
ingenious  man,  provided  with   fuch  learning  as  is 
required   for  knowing    common    difeafes :    he  had 
great  hopes  to  gain  the  peoples  confidence,  towards 
which  he  was  already  pretty  well  advanced. 

The   16th,  I  made  my  firfh  jaunt  on  Iiorfcback, 

which  gave  me  no  favourable  opinion  of  the  iaiia- 

C  3  bi:aii:5 


22       TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

bitants  of  the  Eafl:.  The  miferable  roads,  over  hills 
and  dales,  full  of  Hones  and  mud,  put  me  in  mind  of 
the  incomparable  roads  in  Sweden,  and  gave  me  a 
much  worfe.  opinion  of  the  celebrated  Southern 
countries,  than  I  before  had.  But  what  on  this 
journey  caufed  a  woeful  remembrance  to  a  Swede, 
was  the  place,  where  five  years  ago,  Mr.  Kierman, 
merchant  in  Smyrna,  and  fon  to  Mr.  Alderman 
Kierman  in  Stockholm,  was  lliot  dead  by  fome 
highwaymen.  The  lofs  our  trade  fuffered  by  the 
death  of  this  young  man,  was  not  to  be  repaired  by 
the  lamentations  of  the  Turks  or  the  punifliment 
of  the  murderers.  The  former  however  ihews 
that,  amongfh  thofe  we  efteem  barbarians,  there  arc 
lovers  of  virtue,  and  the  latter  confirms  to  us,  that 
the  Turks  have  learn'd  the  wife  rule,  that  juftice 
is  due  to  all  men.  Budgia,  an  agreeable  country- 
feat  of  the  Dutch  Conful  Hochpied,  to  which 
"we  came,  expelled  thefe  melancholy  reflexions.  Its 
Cyprefs  park,  filled  with  Gazellas,  Peacocks,  Phea- 
{cuns.  Partridges  and  Nightingales,  is  incompa- 
rable. 

The  diverfior.s  of  the  Carnaval  began  amongfl: 
the  Franks,  the  beginning  of  the  year,  with  balls 
and  genteel  fuppers.  I  was  prefent,  the  5th  of  Ja- 
nuary, at  the  entertainment  the  Dutch  Conful 
Hochpied  gave  to  all  the  Europeans.  Every  thing 
was  well  conducted,  after  the  European  manner. 
Mufick  is  the  only  thing,  we  muft  put  up  with,  after 
the  manner  of  the  country,  which  is  bad  enough.  It 
confifted  of  two  miferable  violins,  and  two  lutes,  nei- 
ther of  which  was  well  played.  This  noble  art  is  now 
no  more  to  be  found,  in  a  country  where  it  once  had 
arrived  to  the  higheil  perfection.  In  vain  may  we 
now  look  for  an  Orpheus  among  the  Greeks;  but 
^  dance,  a  remain  of  the  Grecian  age,  performed  by 

the 


'      TO      SMYRNA.  23 

the  Greek  women,  afforded  me  infinite  pleafure. 
They  were  about  fifteen  in  number,  the  foremoll  of 
which  conduced  the  dance,  by  making  fignswitha 
garment  ilie  held  in  her  hand.  The  art  confift ed 
in  keeping  an  equal  half-circle,  to  be  obferved  un- 
der all  their  different  turnings.  They  likewife  fe- 
veral  times  made  a  labyrinth,  but  immediately  re- 
affumed  their  former  flation.  There  was  fome- 
thing  particular  in  this  dance,  which  at  firil  fight, 
convinced  me  it  was  ancient.  My  conjeflures  were 
confirmed  by  Mr.  Peyfonell,  the  French  Conful, 
who  hath  much  knowledge  in  what  relates  to  Gre- 
cian antiquities.  He  told  me,  that  fome  monuments 
of  marble  had  been  found,  on  which  this  dance 
was  fculptured.  It  is  fo  agreeable  when  danced 
by  Greeks,  dreffed  in  the  ancient  manner  and  con- 
formable to  the  dance,  that  no  modern  invention  of 
this  kind  feems  to  equal  it.  The  mufick  ufed  on 
this  occafion  did  not  appear  to  me  to  have  been  de- 
figned  for  it  by  the  antients.  What  J  afterwards 
heard  them  fing,  feemed  to  mt  better  applied. 

The  hard  frofl,  which  had  lafted  a  whole  week, 
(the  like  was  not  remembered  by  the  oldefl  men  li- 
ving) was  now  fo  far  broke,  that  I  in  the  afternoon 
of  the  2d  of  February  could  venture  myfelf  in  the 
gardens,  without  the  town,  to  fee  what  havock  win- 
ter had  made  amongft  my  flowers,  which  I  a  Ihort 
time  before  had  feen  in  their  glory.  They  had 
withflood  the  cold  pretty  well,  fo  that  Chryfanthe- 
mum  and  Calendula,  with  feveral  others,  yet  adorn- 
ed the  fields;  but  fome  of  the  Syngenefifls  had  fuf- 
fered  a  Httle.  Art  has  been  but  of  fmall  affiflance 
to  the  gardens  here,  except  in  planting  a  few 
Orange-trees,  which  do  not  grow  wild.  Nature  in 
this  place  is  amiable ;  but,  if  a  little  art  was  ufed, 
the  gardens  here  would  foon  poffefs  much  greater 
C  4  beauties 


2.4      TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

beauties,  than  tliofe  in  our  Northern  Europe,  which 
require  (o  much  coil  and  labour ;  Orange-trees  grow 
here  in  abundance,  nor  does  any  body  care  to  pluck 
the  fruit,   which  remains  on  the  trees  the  whole 
year,   until  the  flowering  feafon,  when  it  falls  off. 
Some  Fig,  Olive,  and  Pomegranate-trees,  ftand  here 
and  there,  wiihout  order.  Poplar-trees  are  common 
enough  few  Dates  and  Palm-trees  are  to  be  feen, 
and   thofe  feem  to   be  very  old.     Cyprefs  trees 
grow  in  fome  places,  and  mount  towards   the  i]<y, 
like  tall  Pyramids.  Such  are  the  greateft  ornaments 
nature  has  given  to  thefe  countries.     Pledera  Helix 
(Ivy)  grows  in  fuch  abundarc^  about  and  within  all 
the  gardens  of  Smryna,  that  it  can  fcarcely  be  more 
common  in  any  place.     It  makes  the  greatefl  part 
of  their  hedges,  and  creeps   about  every  where  in 
their  gardens,  to  which  it  is  an  ornament   but  of 
little  fervice.     I  faw  fome  of  nature's  mafter-pieces, 
of  this  plant,  which  confirm'd  me  in -my  former  o- 
pinion,  how  ufeful  it  is  to  adorn  gardens,  efpecialiy 
if  art  leads  it  to  proper  places,  where  it  is  moil 
wanted.   I  faw  an  Ivy   and  a  Vine  together,  cover 
a  Pome-granate  tree,  which  made  a  noble  appear- 
ance.   In  another  place,  four  Vines  had  crept  up  a 
Fig-tree,   and  with  their  librous  roots  faftened  to 
the  bark,   which  was  not   lefs  agreeable ;  but  the 
handfomeft  of  all  was  a  gateway,  nature  had  made 
of  Ivy,   which    had   twilled    itfelf  together,    over^ 
a  miferable  crarden   ^ate,  to  the  thicknefs   of  three 
feet,  and  the  length  of  eight.     The  gate  confifted  of 
foraeunplaned  and  rough  deals  nailed  together,  ordi- 
nary enough  for  a  common  (table  door ;  but  the  cover- 
ii]g  might  have  been  an  ornament  to  the  .entrance 
of  a  royal  garden.     The  fences  round  gardens  are 
moilly  fuch  as  the  want  of  wood  taught  them  to 
make.     They    are  chiefly  hedges,  and    therefore 

perma- 


T    O     S    M    Y    R    N    A.  25 

permanent.  They  make  them  of  Willows,  which  are 
planted  at  the  fides  of  a  ditch,  at  four  feet  di fi- 
ance; or  of  Caprificus,  which  is  yet  handfom- 
er,  and  peculiar  almofl  to  this  country,  planted  in 
the  fame  manner.  I  beheve,  that  our  Swedifh  huf- 
bandmen  will  not  dare  to  plant  fuch  fences;  but  I 
know  the  former  hath  been  under  confideration, 
and  I  wiih  it  was  done  in  the  fame  manner  it  is  here, 
as  I  am  perfuaded  it  may.  • 

Banks  are  more  common  here.  Ivy,  and  a 
parcel  of  other  builies  grow  on  them,  with  common 
Reed,  Arundo  Phragmites,  (Donax)  much  larger 
than  the  Swediili,  and  make  them  durable  and  a 
good  defence.  I  was  curious  to  know  how  this  Reed 
came  to  grow  in  fuch  quantities  on  thefe  banks,  and 
enquired  of  the  inhabitants  whether  it  had  been 
fown  or  planted  there  ?  They  anfwered  in  the  ne- 
gative. I  allied  whether  they  had  carried  the 
earth  from  the  fea  fliore,  and  the  roots  in  it,  which 
afterwards  grew  up  ?  This  they  likewife  denied. 
The  earth  for  the  banks  is  dug  on  the  fpot,  and 
thrown  out  of  the  ditches  on  both  iides.  It  was  not 
however  very  difficult  to  difcover  whence  this  plant 
came.  It  is  not  long  fmce  the  fea  v/ent  up  to  thefe 
gardens,  which  runs  now  a  cannon-lliot  from  them, 
and  then,  as  now,  Reed  grew  on  the  *fhore.  The 
fea  decreafed,  and  its  bottom  became  dry  land, 
whereby  the  roots  of  this  Reed  remained  with  its 
former  lliores,  which,  after  the  ground  was  dug  up 
for  banks,  were  at  liberty  to  fpi;ead,  grow  up  and 
feed,  like  the  largefl  wood;  but  this  was  not  i'o  ea~ 
fy,  whilft  they  lay  hid  in  the  ground  under  a  high- 
way. Clay  walls  are  the  worfl  kind  of  fences  ufed 
here.  The  fpring  began  already,  on  the  12th  of 
Februa'ry,  to  bring  forth  the  beauties  of  the  South- 
ern regions,  owing  to  the  mild  climate.     The  x4l1- 

mond-tree 


26      TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

mond-tree  flowered  around  Smyrna  on  bare 
boughs.  Anemones  and  Tulips  adorned  the  fields, 
and  grew  fpontaneouily  in  valleys,  and  at  the  foot 
of  mountains.  The  former  are  pretty,  of  different 
colours,  purple  and  deep  red,  cochineal  red, 
with  a  white  ring  at  the  bafis  of  the  petals.  I 
defer ibed  to  day  a  Solitaire,  a  bird  kept  in  a 
cage  in  our  Swedifli  houfe.  It  is  a  kind  of  Thrulh 
(Turdus  folitarius),  highly  eiteemed  by  the  Eaft- 
ern  nations  for  its  fong;  and  they  have  told  me,  that 
it  fells  to  the  Turks  at  Conftantinople,  for  200  Pi- 
afters.  It  whiftles,  and  can  learn  to  fmg  entire 
airs,  if  it  be  kept  to  it,  and  exercifed.  They  are 
found  in  the  Grecian  iilands.  Whence  they  are 
brought  over  and  fold  by  the  Greeks,  who  in  their 
language,  call  it  hhyaXa.  If  kept  in  a  cage,  it  is  fed 
with  frejQi  meat,  infe6ls  and  currants, 

I  was  defirous  to  fee  Opobalfamum  or  Balfam  of 
Mecca  in  a  place  where  I  was  certain  to  find  it  good 
and  genuine.  This  is  feldom  found  genuine  in  Europe, 
and  perhaps  never  entered  an  Apothecary's  fliop  in 
Sweden,  unadulterated.  It  is  a  drug  that  is  feldom 
to  be  had  genuine,  even  in  Turkey ;  for  the  bullies 
from  which  it  is  taken  are  fcarce  in  Arabia,  and  the 
quantity  they  yearly  afford  is  barely  fufEcient  for 
the  court  of  the  Turkiih  Emperor,  and  the  gran^ 
dees  of  the  empire.  A  few  of  the  common  Turks, 
who  make  pilgrimages  to  Mecca,  may  chance  to  get 
a  fmall  quantity  not  mixed,  but  fcarcely  one  in  a 
thoufand  that  yearly  go  there  return  without  fome 
mixture,  which  they  fell  for  the  true  Balfam,  though 
they  have  made  it  of  Turpentine,  &;c.  Of  this  kind  f 
take  the  greatcft  part  to  be,  which  the  Druggifls 
and  Apothecaries  in  Europe  have;  as  I  faw  their 
merchants  in  Smyrna  buy  fuch  mixtures,  and  fend 
them  to  Europe,  there  to  be  difpofedof  under  the 

name 


TO      SMYRNA.  27 

name  of  the  trueBalfam  of  Mecca.  I  faw  fome  the 
13th  of  February,  which  lam  fure  was  of  the  true 
khid  ;  as  it  agreed  with  the  defcriptions  the  befl  au- 
thors have  given  us,  and  what  I  myfelf  have  learn'd 
concerning  its  tranfportation.  I  had  frequently  op- 
portunities to  fee,  what  was  called  Balfam  of  Mecca, 
but  I  never  beheved  any  to  be  the  true,  except 
this,  which  I  have  defcribed. 

Spring  was  now  advancing  apace:  and  as  the 
heat  encreafed,  I  went  without  the  town  on  the 
14th,  to  fee  what  effeft  this  fine  weather  had  on  na- 
ture, and  what  fort  of  plants  the  fpring  afforded.  I 
went  to  the  burying-places  of  the  Turks,  to  fee 
whether  they  contained  any  thing  worth  notice. 
They  bury  mod  of  their  dead  without  the  town, 
they  have  however  near  fome  of  their  churches, 
and  even  private  houfes  places  fiU'd  with  graves. 
But  the  largefl  and  moft  numerous  are  without 
the  town.  They  occupy  a  large  terrace  around  the 
town,  and  therefore  make  an  incredible  quantity  of 
earth  ufelefs,  which  they  encreafe  daily,  by  digging 
new  graves  and  fearching  for  other  places,  when 
they  bury  their  dead.  They  have  their  burying- 
places  furrounded  with  fine  walls,  and  handfomer 
than  thofe  about  their  gardens  and  vineyards.  At 
each  grave  they  had  raifed  up  a  flone  of  coarfe 
marble,  for  the  moll  part  grey,  but  fome  brown. 
On  thefe  they  had  beflowed  more  or  lefs  art,  ac- 
cording to  the  eflate  and  efleem  the  deceafed  enjoy- 
ed while  living.  I  concluded  thofe  were  grandell, 
over  whom  was  built  a  triangular  monument  of 
ftones.  Next  were  thofe  with  oblong  flones,  on  the 
farther  end  of  which  was  engraved  a  turban  or 
Turkifh  h.eaddrefs ;  if  this  is  green,  it  fignifies  that 
an  Emir  or  relation  of  Mahomet  lies  here.  The 
pogrefl  had  plain  flones  withoiit  any  art  and  la- 
bour. 


^8       TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

bour,   except   cutting   them   out    of  a    rock  and 
fmoothing.      There  Avere  fome  that   had  infcrip- 
tions.      The    burying-places   of    the   Turks     are 
handfome  and  agreeable,  which  is  owing  chiefly  to 
the  many  fine  plants  that  grow  in  them  and  which 
they  carefully  place  over  their  dead:   Cypreffes  of 
remarkable  height,  and  an  innumerable  quantity  of 
Kofemary,  were  the  plants  chiefly  found  here.  The 
latter  were  now  in  full  bloflbm  and  afforded  a  de- 
licious odour.     The  former,  which  the   Turks  ef- 
teem  mourning  trees,  were  in  fruit,  and  are  agree- 
able both  fumraer  and  winter  to  the  fight  and  fmell. 
The  Turks    a6i:  much   more    confident  than    the 
Chriflians,  when  they  bury  their  dead  without  the 
town,  and  plant   over    them  fuch  vegetables,   as 
by  their  aromatick  and  balfamick  fmell  can  drive  a- 
way  the  fatal  odours,  with  which  the  air  is  filled  in 
fuch  places.     I  am  perfuaded,  that  they  by  this  ef- 
cape  many  misfortunes,  which  aifecl  Chrifl:ians,  from 
their  wandering  and  dwelling  confliantly  among  the 
dead.     A  large  and  fine   variety  of   Ranunculus 
Ficaria;  the  Androfaceof  Linnceus  were  new  flowers 
of  this   year,  which   I  faw,  and  the  Almond-tree 
which  was  fnow-white  with  bloflfoms.     Why  does 
the  Almond-tree,  which  hath  white  flowers,  blof- 
fom  on  bare  boughs  ?  not  for  the   fame  reafon  as 
the   hazel  ;    perhaps  the   fruit,    having    a  ftone, 
requires  a  longer  time  to  grow  ?  They  adorn  the 
rifmg  grounds,  and  according  to  nature's  order  ought 
TO  afford  much  fruit,  as   they  bloom  at  a  time   of 
the  year  when  the  ll^y  is  confl:antly  ferene,  and  it 
neither  rains  nor  is  there  any  kind  of  bad  weather, 
which   in  many  countries  prevent  a  fine  bloflbm 
from  giving  the  wiflied-for  fruit. 

The   17th,  I  found  Hyacinthus  Mufcari  grow  in 
common  round  the  town,  and  in  full  bloflbm.     The 

Turks 


TOSMYRNA.  29 

Turks  call  it  Mufcharumi,  and  it  ferves  them  in 
their  love  affairs  in  this  manner  :  A  young  man  fends 
this  flower  to  a  girl  he  loves ;  When  flie  fees  it  is 
Mufcharumi,  flie  mufl  remember  a  word  in  rhime  to 
anfwer  this,  which  is  Ydilcerumi,  and  puts  her  in 
mind  by  implication  what  her  lover  expects  from 
her.  This  is  properly  called  an  allegorical  manner 
of  fpeaking.  This  evening  I  learned  an  ingenious 
method  of  giving  wine  a  good  and  pleafant  tafle, 
from  the  French  conful  Mr.  Peyfonell,  who  had  late- 
ly got  it  from  the  Greek  billiop  in  Smyrna.  I  have 
defcribed  it  in  my  colleclions,  and  took  care  of  the 
thing  with  which  it  is  to  be  done :  this  Mr.  Peyfonell 
likewife  gave  me. 

The  24th  in  the  afternoon,  I  had  an  opportunity 
of  feeing  the  Jews  fynagogue.  I  went  there  with 
Mr.  De  Colla,  the  principal  Jew  merchant  in  Smyr- 
na, -and  a  man  of  knowledge  acquired  both  by 
obfervation  and  reading.  There  are  not  about  fix 
fynagogues  in  Smyrna ;  there  were  more  formerly, 
which  were  deflroyed  by  fire,  and  not  fmce  rebuilt. 
Thofe  remaining  are  fmall,  but  handfome.  In 
the  middle  of  the  fynagogue  was  an  elevated 
place  furrounded  with  a  clofet,  within  which  were 
benches.  I  took  thofe,  who  fat  there,  for  holy  men. 
Piound  the  walls  v/ere  likewife  benches,  upon  which 
the  men  fat,  and  on  the  fides  on  the  floor  and  in 
galleries  were  feparate  clofets,  in  w^hicli  the  women 
performed  their  devotions.  From  the  cieling  hung 
a  quantity  of  glafs  lamps  and  fome  metal  candle- 
fticks.  In  one  of  thefe  fynagogues  I  was  fliewed 
the  books  of  Mofes,  wrote  in  a  fine  Hebrew  let- 
ter on  parchment,  covered  with  filk,  roiled  up  and 
tied  round  with  ribbands.  They  had  about  four 
clofets  filled  with  fuch  volumes ;  thefe  clofets  flood 
in  the  wall  5  and  on  the  pannels  of  the  doors  the 
'2  Law 


30      TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

Law  of  Mofes,  the  ten  commandments,  and  oth^r 
parts  of  the  Pentateuch,  were  worked  with  letters  cut 
out  of  black  cloth,  and  fewed  on  cloth  of  different 
colours.  In  each  fynagogue  fat  a  man  on  one  fide  of 
the  door,  dreffed  in  black  or  white,  reading  in  the 
books  of  Mofes;  and  feveral  people  that  fat  on 
the  benches  likewife  had  them  and  read  after  him. 
Coming  home,  I  got  an  Iris  (tuberofa)  imberbis, 
corollis  apice  purpureis. 

Barnaba  is  one  of  the  prettleft  villages  round 
Smyrna,  being  about  two  hours  journey  from  the 
town,  whither  we  went  on  horfeback  the  2d  of 
March.  An  Aga  had  the  command  of  this,  as  well 
as  fome  other  villages  hereabout ;  but  the  lafl 
poffeflbr  of  this  office  having  feveral  times  furnifli- 
ed  the  Franks  with  occafion  of  complaint,  at  the 
beginning  of  this  month  they  petitioned  the  Porte  to 
difmifs  him.  He  was  accordingly  difcharged,  by 
v/hich  means,  the  Franks  became  more  at  liberty 
to  enjoy  the  pleafures  the  country  might  afford. 
The  hufbandman  was  now  ploughing  the  land  that 
had  been  fallow  laft  year.  The  foil  is  here  quite 
loofe  and  eafy  to  till,  and  therefore  requires  little 
labour  in  cultivation.  It  confifls  chiefly  of  a  loofc 
clay  mixt  v/ith  fand  and  covered  with  rich  mould. 
They  always  ufe  oxen  to  plough  the  field ;  the  con- 
ftru6tion  of  the  plough  I  have  defcribed  in  another 
place.  It  is  amufmg  to  fee  them  take  off  the 
plough-fliare  when  they  have  done  their  work,  and 
put  in  on  again  when  they  have  occafion.  We 
paffed  by  the  burying-ground  of  this  place,  than 
which  many  of  our  ccmntry  pariflies  in  Sweden  have 
not  larger.  It  fliou'd  therefore  feem,  that  it  was 
more  than  fufficient  for  a  village,  which  contains 
not  ahove  20  or  30  families  j  but,  to  bury  after  the 
I  Turkifli 


T    O      S    M    Y    R    N    A.  31 

Turkl{h  manner,  who  never  lay  a  corpfe  where 
another  before  hath  been  burled,  fuch  a  place 
mufl  been  larged  every  year;  and  probably,  all  the 
land  belonging  to  the  village  will  in  time  be  filled 
with  grave-ftones  and  bones  of  the  dead.  The 
iargenefs.of  the  place,  and  the  number  of  monu- 
ments ftiew,  that  the  village  muft  have  been  acon- 
fiderable  time  inhabited,  as  people  live  to  a  great 
age,  and  few  die  in  a  year.  We  alighted  at  the 
houfe  of  Mr.  Begler,  the  chief  Grecian  merchant 
in  Smyrna,  a  man  v/hom  I  ought  to  mention  with 
refpe^ ;  he  had  good  lenfe,  had  lived  long  in  Holland, 
and  now  had  an  extenfive  trade  to  that  country  in 
company  with  a  Dutch  merchant.  His  houfe  was 
built  in  the  Dutch  tafte,  and  furrounded  with  a 
fmall  garden,  where  no  other  plants  grew 
than  thofe  of  the  country.  Marjoram  (Origanum 
Majorana)  which  almoft  every  farmer  in  Sweden 
has  growing  in  his  garden,  was  reckoned  the  fcarceft 
plant,  and  kept  in  a  pot  near  the  entrance  of  the 
houfe,  with  Cheiranthus  Incanus  over  againft  it, 
on  the  other  fide  were  Fig-trees,  Almond-trees, 
Orange-trees,  Oriental  Plane-tree,  (Platanus  orien- 
talis)  &c.  which  with  us  are  kept  in  hot-houfes 
and  pots,  but  here  in  the  open  air  left  to  nature ; 
I  took  however  notice,  that  the  hard  frolt  towards 
the  latter  end  of  February  had  ravaged  the  Orange- 
trees,  whofe  leaves  and  fruit  were  entirely  deflroy- 
ed.  This  had  likewife  happened  in  the  town,  a- 
mongil  the  trees  that  were  there.  On  our  return 
we  faw  Storks,  that  were  traveUing  from  the  South- 
ward to  the  Northward,  who  took  up  their  lodg- 
ings in  a  wheat-field,  where  they  v/alk  as  gentle  and 
fearlefs  as  if  they  were  tame,  Thefe  birds  are 
znofl  favoured  in  Turkey.     The  Turks  are  their 

greateft 


32       TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

greatefl  defenders ;  and  if  a  Chriilian  fliould  hap- 
pen to  kill  one  of  them,  he  would  endanger  his 
fafety.  Thofe  who  own  a  houfe  where  Storks  have 
nefted,  are  fuppofed  to  receive  great  bleffings 
from  heaven,  and  to  be  free  from  all  misfortunes. 
A  nefl  of  them  is  efleemed  by  a  bigoted  Turk, 
more  than  a  field  full  of  Sheep  and  Camels. 

The  I  ft  of  March  in  the  afternoon,  I  viewed 
the  dock-yard  in  Smyrna,  as  they  were  about  laying 
down  a  Swediflr  fliip.  This  is  a  miferable  place, 
built  by  the  Turks,  where  fliips  can  be  laid  over  to 
clean  them,  but  a  middling  veflel  will  not  be  hove 
down  for  lefs  than  150  to  200  piaflers.  The 
place  over  which  we  went  and  returned  took 
up  my  attention  more  than  the  dock :  It  confifted 
of  a  pretty  fpacious  field,  which,  as  well  as  I  can 
guefs,  may  contain  little  more  than  one  acre.  I  be- 
held this  field  was  anew  world,  or  a  new  enlargement 
of  the  inhabited  world ;  it  may  be  difficult  to  find 
a  place  which  fo  clearly  proves  the  decreafe  of  the 
fea,  as  this:  Here  I  could  plainly  fee  a  dried  bot- 
tom of  the  fea,  which  confided  of  clay  fiU'dwith  fliells 
and  all  forts  of  fea-infeds;  around  its  extremities,  on 
the  former  fliore,  lay  all  forts  of  pebble-fi:ones, 
which  the  fea  had  thrown  up.  Here  no  plants  had 
yet  had  time  to  root,  and  be  changed  into  mould ; 
but  I  am  perfuaded  that  within  a  few  years  one  may 
walk  here  as  in  a  garden,  fetch  fruit  out  of  a  vine- 
yard, or  mow  a  corn-field.  Towards  the  latter  a 
good  beginning  was  already  made  by  the  Turks  at 
the  weft-end  of  the  place,  where  a  little  ftripe  was 
fown  with  barley,  which  grew  freely.  The  place 
on  which  Smyrna  is  built  hath  had  the  like  origin 
and  appearance,  with  its  gardens,  vineyards  and 
corn-land  :  I  could  never  have  found  any  thing  more 
agreeable   than   our  Swedifh   arrow-headed  grafs 

(Triglochin 


TO      SMYRNA.  ^ 

(Trlglochin  paluftre)  which  I  found  to  the  north- 
ward of  this  field.  If  I  had  not  been  able  to  dif- 
cern  with  my  eyes,  and  confirmed  by  the  inhabi- 
tants that  this  place  formerly  flood  under  water, 
this  plant  had  been  fuificient  to  convince  me  and 
others,  who  know  its  nature,  and  that  through 
the  whole  world  it  grows  in  fuch  places,  where  it 
can  receive  nourilhment  from  an  -earth  that  hath 
fome  remains  of  fea  fait. 

I  HAD  an  inclination  to  fee  the  inland  fituation 
of  Natolia,  before  I  left  its  coafls,  and  therefore 
fet  out  on  the  nth  of  March  for  Magnefia,  v/hich 
is  8  hours  travelling  from  Smyrna.  I  fet  cut  at 
fan-rife,  accompanied  by  a  Drogman,  an  Arminian 
fervant  and  a  guide.  We  were  all  well  armed, 
which  is  cuftoraary  in  this  country,  and  fre- 
quently neceffary  in  the  fiiortefl  journey.  We  took 
horfes  from  the  caravan,  which  goes  every  Wednef- 
day  and  Sunday  from  Smyrna  to  Magnefia.  In  one 
hour's  travelling  from  the  town  we  came  to  a  large 
field,  covered  with  Olive-trees,  and  in  fome  places 
turned  into  corn  land.  Round  thefe  fields  were  fe- 
veral  villages,  under  the  command  of  an  Aga,  who 
had  his  feat  in  Barnaba,  one  of  the  largeft  and 
handfomefl.  After  this  we  fav/  a  quite  diiFerent 
profpedl,  and  this  fo  odd,  that  I  doubt  whether  any 
one  who  has  not  feen  the  Eaftern  countries  can 
have  any  idea  of  it :  a  mixture  of  hills  and  vallies, 
like  the  high  billows  and  gulphs  in  a  boifterous  fea. 
In  no  place  was  it  more  evident  that  the  continent, 
we  call  earth,  was  in  the  beginning  the  bottom  of 
the  fea.  The  hills  were  in  their  form  unequal, 
fome  being  flat  towards  the  top ;  others  of  a 
conick  figure.  At  a  diilance  they  feemed  com- 
pofed  of  fand,  gravel,  clay,  or  fome  other  earth, 
being  covered  with  mould  and  plants.     But  at  a 

D  nearet 


34      TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST, 

nearer  view  they  are  found  to  confill  of  a  dark 
brown,  coarfe,  loofe  flate,  compofed  of  thin  flates, 
and  which  may  eafily  be  broke  by  the  fingers. 
I  found  hills  of  flate  at  the  road  fide,  with  breaches 
cut  through  them  to  make  paffages  for  travellers. 
The  other  hills  of  Natolia  confifled  of  Lime-flone, 
which  was  whitifli,  and  of  a  coarfe  grain  :  in  thefe 
I  hkewife  faw  fome  large  breaches;  but  an  innu- 
merable quantity  of  loofe  ft  ones  of  this  kind  covered 
both  hills  and  roads.  Nor  were  there  wanting 
loofe  ftones  of  (^artz,  Spart,  reddiih  Lime-ftone, 
Sand-ftone,  Spars  mixt  with  Quartz;  yet  unmixed 
Quartz  was  fomewhat  fcarce,  and  always  in  fingle 
pieces.  Such  mountains  as  we  moftly  have  in  the 
North,  are  not  to  be  feen  here.  Mould  makes  the 
upper  furface  of  all  hills,  in  which  grow  various 
plants,  but  none  fo  common  as  Arbmus  Andrachne. 
This  bufh  covers  the  hill  in  every  place^  and  grows 
in  fuch  quantities,  that  I  have  never  feen  any  plain 
fo  covered  with  Juniper-buflies  in  Sweden.  The 
latter  were  fo  fcarce,  that  I  fcarce  faw  ten  on  the 
whole  road.  The  Spanifh  Pine  (Pinus  Picea)  was 
fomewhat  more  common,  and  occupied  the  moft  barren 
places ;  but  moft  of  thefe  trees  were  young.  All 
the  hills  lay  uncultivated,  a  fign  of  a  country 
badly  till'd.  If  Natolia  was  well  inhabited,  good 
hufbandmen  would  certainly  make  the  hills  turn 
out  to  fome  account.  Here  might  be  planted 
good  vineyards  of  the  fine  vines  that  grow  about 
Smyrna.  Here  a  number  of  flieep  might  feed  in 
places  that  agree  well  with  them,  where  the  llieep's 
Fefcue  grafs  (Feftuca  ovina)  grows  fufiiciently. 
Goats  might  feed  here  to  a  much  greater  number 
than  are  now  found  here,  there  being  plenty  of 
food  for  them.  And  if  all  other  places,  which  here 
lie  uncultivated,  were  to  be  turned  into  corn  land, 

a  careful 


T    O      S    M    Y    R    N    A.  35 

a.  careful  hufbandman  might  raife  the  fineft  crops  on 
thefe  hills.     The  vales  between  the  hills  did  not 
appear  very  remarkable  to  me.     They  rather  con- 
fifted  of  fmall  vales  dividing  one  hill  from  another, 
than  of  large  and  level  plains.     I  faw  no  more  than 
two  or  three  fuch  plains,  but  they  were  not  large,  or 
elfe  over-run  with  the  Andrachne.  The  profpeft  of 
the  country  is  rather  flrange  than  pleafnig  ;  and  the 
roads  are  very  bad,  as  travellers  muft  ride  amongfb 
broken  Hones  up  and  down  the  highefl:  hills.     In 
fome  places  the  roads  were  paved,  which  feem  to 
be  the  remains  of  the  ancients  care  for  the  conve- 
niency   of   travellers.     We  met    alfo  with    fl: one- 
bridges,  which  feemed  too  good  to  be  built  by  the 
people  who  now  inhabit  the  country.     They  were 
formerly  of  more  ufe  than  at  prefent,  as  the  river 
muft  have  been  larger;  for  we  could  now  conve- 
niently crofs  it  without  palling  the  bridge.  Taverns 
were  frequent  on  the  road.     We  came  to  three  or 
four,  but  they  have  nothing  to  give  travellers  but 
coffee,  and  water,  which  every  one  might  fetch  fromi 
the  well.     The  coflee-houfe  confifted  of  a  heap  of 
flones  piled,  covered  with  boughs.     Here  a  Turk 
made  a  fire  for  the  coffee-pot,  and  to  light  pipes ; 
thefe,  with  a  cup,  were  all  we  could  get  for  our  bo- 
dily wants.     Wine  and  brandy  are  flrange  things 
for  a  Turk  to  give  or  fell  to  a  traveller ;  but  if  he 
be  treated  with  a  glafs  by  a  traveller,  he  will  forget 
the  rigour  of  his  rehgion  during  the  time  he  drinks 
it.     A  Turk  of  the  better  fort  commonly  makes  it 
a  matter  of  confcience  not  to  tranfgrefs  the  law  that 
-  forbids  them  the  ufe  of  fpirituous  liquors.     There 
are  however  more  to  be  found  that  regard  this  as 
a  commandment  not  rigoroufly  enforced  ;  and  when 
the  number  of  Turks"  who  believe  drunkennefs  no 
fin,  comes  to  equal  that  of  the  Chriflians,  Hfe  will  be 
D  2  ranch 


^6      TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

much  more  miferable  both  for  them  and  ftraiigers. 
We  ahghted  to  reft  at  one  of  thefe  places,  and  I 
feized  the  opportunity  to  fee  what  plants  the  fpring 
had  brought  forth.  Saffron  (Crocus  fativus  Linn.) 
was  the  iirft,  and  the  moft  remarkable  I  found.  I 
fliould  have  been  well  fatisfied  with  feeing  this 
plant  grow  in  its  native  country,  if  I  had  found  no- 
thing elfe  in  this  journey.  The  oriental  Saffron  is 
not  a  diftinft  fpecies  from  the  European  ;  but  its 
gcodnefs  and  virtue  in  phyilc  hath  always  been 
more  efteemed  than  the  latter,  therefore  the  dofe 
of  it  is  lefs  as  it  is  ftronger.  It  grew  here,  but  in  no 
confiderable  quantity,  amongft  the  Arbutus  An- 
drachne  ;  not  at  the  top,  but  towards  the  decline  of 
the  hills ;  nor  expofed  to  the  heat  of  the  fun,  but  in 
fliady  places.  The  colour  was  a  pale  yellow;  but  I 
faw  fome  near  Smyrna  of  a  more  dark  and  almoft 
deep  yellow.  Natolia  is  well  ftored  with  this  pre- 
cious plant,  without  culture;  and  in  certain  places, 
as  round  Magnefia,  towards  the  confines  of  Bruffa, 
large  quantities  are  gathered  and  exported  to  dif- 
ferent places  in  Afia  and  Europe  ;  I  have  however 
good  reafon  to  fafpect  that  all  our  apothecary  {hops 
have  not  the  fort  to  fell  that  is  gathered  here,  when 
oriental  Saffron  is  prefcribed.  The  phyfician  as  well 
as  the  apothecary  cannot  but  fufpecl  its  genuinenefs, 
after  having  gone  through  the  hands  of  fo  many 
druggifts,  who,  as  I  myfelf  have  feen,  underftand 
the  art  of  encreafmg  a  drug  they  cannot  gain  by 
when  fold  genuine.  Therefore,  if  any  one  is  de- 
firous  of  having  the  true  oriental  Saffron,  which  is 
fuch  a  noble  medicine,  he  muff  endeavour  to  get  it 
from  the  iirft  hand,  which  can  beft  be  done  by  or- 
dering it  from  any  of  the  above-mentioned  towns, 
and  fome  iflands  in  the  Archipelago,  where  it  grows 
in  yet  larger  quantities.     A  phyfician,  who  is  not 

certain 


TOSMYRNA.  37 

certain  of  this  drug,  will  find  it  confiftent  with  pru- 
dence, rather  to  prefer ibeEngliili  Saffron  in  a  larger 
dofe,  than  to  prefcribe  one  thing  and  get  another. 
The  Hyacinth  (Hyacinthus)  and  Star-flower  (Orni- 
thogalum)  were  the  other  fpring  flowers  I  found 
here.  We  came  to  Magnefia  at  3  o'clock  in  the 
afternoon,  and  got  lodgings  in  the  firft  Khan  or 
Caravanferai  place,  which  for  its  ufe  anfwers  to  an 
inn  in  Europe;  and  where  a  traveller  hath  the  fame 
kind  of  accommodations,  according  to  the  cuftoras  of 
the  country.  The  houfe  was  well  built,  but  kept  in 
bad  repair,  covered  with  lead,  and  over  the  whole 
roof  Vv^ere  raifed  arches  at  the  diflance  of  12  feet 
from  each  other.  The  building  was  two  {lories  high. 
The  upper  were  lodging  rooms,  and  the  lower  ma- 
gazines for  goods  and  {landing  for  horfes.  It  con- 
fifled  of  a  quadrangle  which  enclofed  a  fine  large 
yard,  in  the  middle  of  which  was  a  good  fou  tain, 
affording  excellent  water.  This  the  Eaftern  nations 
are  always  follicitous  to  keep  in  order,  for  themfelves 
and  travellers.  I  here  firft  experienced  how  a  tra- 
veller is  lodged  in  Turkey.  We  were  led  to  a 
chamber,  the  palfage  to  which  was  more  difficult 
than  the  high  hills  I  afterwards  afcended  ;  as  on  the 
latter  I  had  firm  ground  to  ftand  on,  but  here  loofe 
ftones.  The  inward  appearance  was  fuch  as  might 
be  expe£i:ed  in  a  place  which  has  not  been  cleaned 
for  rooo  years,  viz.  from  its  beginning,  and  perhaps 
fome  thoufands  of  people  have  lodged  in  it.  A  rufli 
matt  was  laid  on  the  floor  for  each  of  us,  on  which 
we  put  the  bed-clothes  we  had  taken  with  us ;  and 
this  was  all  our  furniture,  table,  chairs  and  bed. 
They  make  no  great  preparations  here  to  accom- 
modate travellers,  and  yet  they  live  tolerably  well, 
though  not  very  agreeably,  in  the  beginning,  to 
thofe  who  are  not  accu{lomed  to  it.    Mufelem  (thus 

D  3  the 


38      TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

the  chief  commander  of  a  town  in  Turkey  is  called) 
was  the  firft  I  had  to  wait  on,  to  deliver  him  my 
letters  of  recommendation  from  his  friends  in 
Smyrna,  and  to  let  him  know  my  intention  of  feeing 
the  town  and  places  adjacent.  I  went  immediately 
to  him,  and  made  him  fome  prefents  I  had  brought 
with  me.  No  traveller  approaches  a  Turkilli  of- 
ficer, efpecially  if  he  has  any  bufmefs  with  him, 
without  bringing  him  fome  prefents.  This  is  thq 
CLiflom  of  the  country,  and  was  the  fame  in  ancient 
times,  as  may  be  feen  by  the  travels  in  the  Old 
Teflament.  Sweetmeats,  tea,  or  fome  fuch  mat- 
ters, are  what  a  traveller  had  bell  offer,  as  they  are 
acceptable.  When  I  fu'll  came  in,  he  was  engaged 
in  more  important  bufmefs  than  to  be  at  leifure  for 
me.  He  was  at  his  prayers,  which  were  thofe,  that 
after  the  Mahometan  religion  are  performed  an 
hour  before  fun  fet,  and  no  Mufulman  will  on  any 
account  omit  or  poflpone  them.  I  therefore  went 
away,  and  was  by  his  fervant  brought  into  a  houfe 
where  a  Turkifli  wedding  was  celebrating.  I  was 
politely  received  here,  as  well  as  in  every  place  I 
went  to  in  the  town.  I  could  not  fee  the  marriage 
performed,  nor  the  married  couple.  Very  few 
Turks,  much  lefs  a  Chriflian,  are  allowed  to  be 
prefent.  But  I  was  at  liberty  to  behold  the  diver- 
sions of  the  guefts,  who  were  in  a  large  room,  which 
always  is  before  the  Turks  chamber.  They  con- 
fifted  here,  as  in  other  places,  in  mufic  and  dancing, 
tho'  quite  foreign  to  our  tafle.  The  mufic  were 
two  fmall  kettle  drums  of  copper,  and  a  kind  of 
rough  and  ill-founding  dulcimer.  The  muficians 
beat  both  fo  hard,  that  in  a  very  large  room,  open 
on  all  fides,  none  could  hear  what  another  faid, 
tho'  he  fpoke  loud ;  but  there  was  nothing  like  order 
©r  time  kept.    The  dance  was  performed  by  one 

perfon^ 


TOSMYRNA,  39 

perfon,  who  might  juflly  be  faid  to  dance  for  alL 
He  was  dreiled  in  a  iliort  jacket,  was  bare  footed, 
and  looked  like  a  Turkifh  foldier.     He  held  in  each 
hand   two   wooden  fpoons.     Thus   accoutred,   he 
lldpped  about  the  middle  of  the  room,  and  moved 
his  head  and  arms  as  much  as  his  feet,  at  the  fame 
time  often  bending  his  body  backwards,  forwards, 
and  fideways.     He  held  the  fpoons,  two  in  each 
hand,  in  fuch  a  manner  between  his  fingers,  that  he 
could  frequently  ftrike  them  together,  which  with 
the  rough  mufic  made  a  noife  no  ways  agreeable  to 
our  ears.     As  far  as  I  could  comprehend,  the  chief 
pleafure  confifled  in  feeing  a  perfon  for  full  three 
quarters  of  an  hour  perfift  in  a    motion  fo  ftrong, 
as  to  put  the  body  and  every  limb  at  once  in  full 
aftion.     By  this  we  may  fee  that  fomething  of  the 
cufloms  of  the  ancient  inhabitants  of  thefe  places, 
whofe  greatefl  diverfions  confided  in  feats  of  ac- 
tivity, ftill  remains.     I  v/ent  back  to  Mufelem,  and 
being  now  admitted  to  a  hearing,  was  received  with 
much  politenefs.  He  was  fo  young  that  his  whiflcers 
had  but  jufl  begun  to  grow,  and  was  therefore 
early  enough  appointed  to  fuch  a  confiderable  em- 
ployment.    The  road  to  preferment  is  the  fame 
amongft  the  Turks  as  amongft  other  nations.   Merit 
is  fometimes  of  fervice,  but  connections,  riches  and 
power  bed  avail.     Kara  Ofman  Oglou,  one  of  the 
moft  remarkable   perfons  at  this  time  under  the 
Turkiih  government,  was  his  father.  He  had  found 
means  to  get  the  command  over  all  this  part  of  Na- 
tolia,  which  reaches  from  Smyrna  to  Burfa,  and  had, 
at  the  change  the  Turkifli  Emperor  m.ade  this  year 
amongd  his  officers,  prevailed  fo  far  as  to  be  ap- 
pointed Mufelem  in  Magnefia,  where  he  put  his  fon 
in  his  room,  and  fent  his  fon-in-law,  who  had  hi- 
fhprto  been  in  Magnefia,  to  Smyrna.    Himfelf  lived 
D  4  in 


40      TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

in  Kyragatch,  a  village  two  days  journey  from  Mag- 
iiefia,  where  are  the  richefl  and  fineft  Cotton  plan- 
tations in  Natolia.  He  could  immediately  raife 
20,000  men,  which  were  under  his  command;  and  it 
was  rumoured  that  his  revenue  were  1200  piaflers 
a  day.  It  was  now  about  fun  fet,  when  the  Turks 
eat  fupper  ;  I  therefore  took  ray  leave,  after  being 
defired  to  call  again  after  fupper.  I  had  fcarcely 
time  to  go  from  the  fopha  to  the  door,  before  the 
cloth  was  laid  and  two  difhes  cleared.  The  Turks 
eat  extremely  faft.  I  have  known  a  dinner  of  above 
twenty  difhes  to  have  been  finiflied  in  a  quarter  of 
an  hour. 

I  COULD  not  undertake  any  thing  before  I  had 
made  another  vifit  to  the  Mufelem.  Being  a  phy- 
lician,  I  was  much  regarded  by  him;  and  his  example 
was  not  only  followed  by  his  fervants,  but  through 
the  v/hole  town  wherever  I  went:  fo  far  from  point- 
ing at  me  or  my  fervant,  and  calling  Jaur  (unbe- 
liever) which  is  other  wife  cuffcomary  amongft  the 
Turks  when  they  fee  a  Chriflian,  efpecially  a 
ftranger,  I  f;aw  and  heard  myfelf  called  and  taken 
notice  of  as  Hekim  Packi :  however,  I  had  not  this 
complaifance  for  nothing.  Mufelem,  as  the  chief 
of  the  town,  began  very  carefully  to  think  about 
his  health ;  which  was  not  only  followed  by  his  fer- 
vants, but  by  all  in  the  town  whom  I  had  occafion 
to  converfe  with.  It  is  common  enough  amongft: 
the  Turks,  and  even  Greeks,  to  be  fick  as  often  as 
they  have  an  opportunity  of  fpeaking  to  a  phyfi- 
cian.  Mod:  of  them  are  fubje6i:  to  the  hypochon- 
driac diforders;  and  as  this  difeafe  always  occafions 
perfons  to  be  fufpicious  of  their  health,  efpecially 
in  the  country,  and  in  little  towns,  where  they  feldom 
have  an  opportunity  of  conveding  with  them  who 

can 


T    O      S    M    Y    R    N   A.  41 

can  give  them  any  fatisfa^llon,  it  is  no  wonder  they 
fliould  be  curious,  and  that  a  phyiician  ihould  be 
both  welcome  and  employed.  There  is  no  occafion 
to  defire  to  feel  the  pulfe.  The  firft  thing  the  per- 
fon  does  who  confuks  a  doctor,  is  to  put  forward  his 
naked  arm.  I  know  not  where  they  leariied  this,  as 
perhaps  neither  they,  nor  their  fathers  before 
them,  ever  appeared  before  a  phyfician  capable 
of  judging  by  the  pulfe.  If  I  may  guefs,  I  fliould 
think  it  tranfmitted  by  the  parents  to  their  ofF- 
fpring,  and  to  have  been  jBrfl  introduced  by  that 
great  phyfician  who  lived  here,  and  put  fuch  great 
and  jufl  confidence  in  the  pulfe.  It  is  not  difficult 
to  imagine  that  the  great  doftor  from  Stanchio 
(Cous)  to  acquire  perfeft  experience,  on  which  he 
built  his  fcience,  here  introduced  the  cuftom,  that, 
when  any  difeafed  perfon  confulted  him  he  felt  his 
pulfe,  which  he  taught  his  difciples ;  of  whom  the  peo- 
ple learned  it,  and  have  retained  it  to  this  day 
without  knowing  the  reafon ;  in  the  fame  manner 
as  hath  happened  with  religious  ceremonies  amongil 
fome  nations,  who  now,  tho'  they  ftill  ufe  them, 
know  not  whence  or  why  they  were  introduced, 
thofe  who  introduced  and  propagated  them  having 
through  the  change  of  times  been  extirpated.  I 
gave  my  Mufelem  fome  medicines  I  had  taken  with 
me  from  Sweden  in  order  to  fi:rengthen  his  ftomach, 
A  Seraglio  of  fifteen  women,  which  at  fo  early 
an  age  he  kept,  was  enough  to  hurt  it ;  but  I  would 
not  advife  any  phyfician,  who  may  chance  to  be  in  my 
fituation,  and  is  confulted  by  a  Turkilh  grandee,  to 
tell  him  this,  as  he  might  perhaps  become  a  martyr 
to  truth.  It  is  beil  to  think  and  do  what  appears 
to  be  of  fervice,  and  talk  as  little  as  pofiible.  By 
way  of  recompence  he  gave  me,  as  Lord  of  the 

Town^ 


42      TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

Town,  liberty  to  go  whither  I  pleafed,  and  pro- 
iiiifed  to  take  care  that  the  mountains  and  places 
where  I  intended  to  botanize  (liould  be  clear, 
which  I  efteemed  the  befl:  reward  I  could  defire. 

The  Greek  and  Armenian  churches  kept  this 
week  (April  12)  holy.     They  ufe  the  Old  Style 
as  we  do  in  Sweden ;  but  our  Celfian  amendment 
of  the  Swedilh  almanack  brings  ourEafter  ^nd  Lent 
at  the  fame  time  with  the  Roman  Catholics  and  others 
that  follow  the  New  Style.    The  ceremonies,  which 
certainly  make  the  greatell  part  of  the  divine  wor- 
fliip  amongft  the  Chriilians  here,  v/ere  better  to  be 
feen  this  week  than  at  any  other  time,  becaufe  now 
they  were  to  be  more  devout.     They  all  tend,  and 
were  by  the  ancients  evidently  inftituted,  to  fliew 
and  reprefent  all  which  the  Scriptures  hiftorically 
tell  us  of  Chrifl's  fuiferings,  refurrection  and  his 
great  works.     On  Thurfday  preceding  Good  Fri^ 
day,  was  celebrated  a  commemoration  of  Chrifl's 
wailiing    the   difciples    feet,    in    both     churches. 
On    Good  Friday,   they   reprefented    the    burial 
according    the  Scriptures.     On   Eafter,  was   per- 
fonally  fliewn  the  Refurre^lion  of  Chrift ;  however, 
the  perfon  of  our  Saviour  was  not  reprefented  by 
any  body,  but  painted  on  a  table  with  an  enfign 
in  his  hand,  which  was  carried  by  priefts.     The 
,  Greeks  have  likewife  proceffions,  but  dare  not  go 
farther  than  round  the  church,  though  the  Roman 
Catholics  go  through  all  French-Street,  from  the 
Capuchins  to  the  Jefuits  Convent.     They  have  this 
liberty  as  fubjects  of  European  powers;  but  the 
Grecians  are  not  allowed,  as  they  are  fubjefts  of  the 
Turkifh  Emperor.     I  faw  the  ceremony  of  wafliing 
the  feet  performed  by   the  Greek  Bifhop  at  1 1 
o'clock  in  the  forenoon,  in  their  largefl  church  St. 
Pholini,  which  was  done  in  this  manner :  After  mafs 
had  been  read  in  the  veflry,  where  the  priefts  and 

Billiop 


T    O     S    M    Y    R    N    A.  43 

Bifliop  alone  had  taken  the  Lord's  Supper,  there 
came  forth  twelve  priefts  dreffed  in  habits  of  cere- 
mony ;  ihey  had  mitres  on  their  heads  covered  with 
jcrape,  which  is  the  head  drefs  of  the  Greek  priefts. 
Thefe  took  their  places  on  a  fquare  flage  raifed  three 
Heps  from  the  ground,  and  feated  therafelves  on  two 
benches,  fix  on  each  fide.  The  Bifhop  foon  fol- 
lowed dreffed  in  his  epifcopal  habit,  with  two,  if  not 
three,  palls  and  fmall  bells  hanging  to  them,  and  a 
Biiliop's  mitre  of  gilt  filver  and  richly  fet  with  pre- 
cious ftones.  He  niounted  the  theatre  and  took  a 
a  front  place,  fo  as  to  have  his  Abbots  before  him 
on  each  fide.  At  the  fame  time  an  aged  man  that 
had  been  Bifhop  in  another  place,  but  depofed  by 
the  Turks,  afcended  the  pulpit  which  was  oppofite 
to  the  ftage,  dreffed  in  a  pall,  accompanied  by  four 
priefts,  and  had  with  him  the  writings  of  the  Evan- 
gelifts  wrote  in  folio  in  literal  Greek,  and  bound 
magnificently  in  filver.  So  foon  as  he  had  left  his 
epifcopal  chair,  I  was  permitted  to  feat  myfelf  in  it 
by  fome  of  the  chief  of  the  Greeks,  whence  I  could 
plainly  fee  all  the  ceremonies.  Any  one  that  will 
reprefent  to  himfelf  the  Bifliop  as  Chrift,  and  the 
twelve  priefts  as  the  twelve  Apoftles,  and  then  read 
the  account  the  Evangelifts  give  us  of  this  act, 
may  eafily  conceive  how  all  was  conduced.  The 
prieft  in  the  pulpit  read  the  hiftory  of  Chrift's 
wafliing  the  difciples  feet;  and  as  faft  as  he  read 
what  Chrift  did,  the  other  imitated.  There  was 
even  occafion  for  Judas  to  be  prefent  to  make  up 
the  number;  but  no  prieft  will  voluntarily  take 
upon  him  to  aft  his  perfon  if  he  is  not  paid  for 
his  trouble;  wherefore  he  that  takes  upon  him  to 
reprefent  the  perfon  of  Judas  for  a  little  while,  re- 
ceives fifteen  piaftres.  It  would  be  but  of  fmall  confe- 
quence,  if  he  had  only  the  name  of  Judas  during  the 
pme  his  feet  are  waftied,  but  he  commonly  retains 

'it 


44      TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

it  for  life.     Peter  politely  refufed  when  that  part  of 
the  text  was  read  which  concerned  him,  wherefore 
eleven  only  were  wafhed.    The  Billiop  again  put  on 
his  pall,  and  finiflied  with  a  bleiling,  after  he  had 
waflied,  dried,  and  kiifed  the  feet  of  his  meanefl 
brethren;  and  they  in  return  had  the  honour  to 
kifs  his  head  or  rather  mitre,  with  which  the  fcene 
concluded.    During  the  whole  fcene,  many  large  and 
fmall  wax  candles,  and  a  prodigious  number  of  lamps 
were  burning.  TheBifliop  held  three  fmall  wax  can- 
dles, and  each  prieft  held  one.     The  congregation 
fung  in  chorufes  their  hymns,  but  in  their  Greek 
method,  which  is  the  mofl:  pitiful  that  can  be  heard, 
Noife  and  riot,  which  proceeded  even  to  blows  on 
the  head,  were  not  wanting  whilft  this  fcene  lafted. 
In  a  Greek  church  the  people  cannot  fleep,  which 
often  happens  in  the  churches  of  other  perfuafions, 
as  thefe  are  obliged  to  ftand  up,  and  be  in  a  con-^ 
flant  motion  by  croffmg  and  bowing ;  but  they  fall 
into  the  other  extreme,  and  are  too  much  awake 
going  out  of  church.     I  faw  the  Greeks  receive  the 
Lord's  Supper.     Married  priefls  only  receive  with 
their  own  hands  the  bread  and  wine,  which  is  given 
them  by  the  Billiop.    This  was  alfo  done,  as  I  have 
already  noticed,  before  the  wafliing  of  the  feet. 
The  bread  was  of  wheat,  thick,  hard,  in  fmall  cakes 
of  three  inches  diameter,  and  feemed  to  be  of  the 
kind  the  European  mafters  of  velfels  have  baked  in 
Smyrna  for  fliip-bread,  which  otherwife  never  is  ufed 
by  the  inhabitants  of  the  country.  The  cake  was  by 
the  Biiliop  broke  into  fmaller  bits,  which  were  taken 
by  the  priefts  that  flood  round  the  altar,  who  bit  off 
a  piece  and  took  the  wine,  which  was  likewife  given 
them  by  the  Billiop.  The  people  received  the  commu- 
nion from  a  prieft  after  the  waflimg  of  the  feet.  He 
ftood  in  a  little  chapel  befide  the  veftry,.  and  through 

a  window 


TO      SMYRNA.  45 

a  window  reached  out  to  them  the  Sacrament.  He 
had  bread  and  wine  mixt  together  in  a  lilver  cup,  of 
which  he  gave  a  tea  fpoonful  to  every  body  that 
advanced.  This  was  done  as  the  people  were  pref- 
fing  out  of  the  church.  The  confeffion  had  been 
before  made,  which  is  done  here  as  in  the  Latin 
church,  each  confeffing  by  himfelf  (Confeffio  Au- 
ricularis).  The  Greek  church  enjoins  children  to 
be  confeifed  as  foon  as  they  can  fpeak,  and  they 
even  give  them  the  Lord's  Supper.  The  Armenians 
performed  this  a£l  in  the  afternoon;  but  it  was  far 
from  making  the  appearance  which  that  of  the  Gre- 
cians did.  It  was  done  before  the  altar  in  the 
church  by  one  of  their  chief  priefts,  as  they  have 
no  Biihop  living  here,  but  are  fubordinate  to  the 
Bifhops  of  other  congregations  w^ho  now  and  then 
vilit  them.  Mafs  v/as  firft  read;  the  priefl  was 
drelTed  in  a  pall,  and  had  an  epifcopal  mitre  of 
filver  ;  he  feated  himfelf  on  a  carpet ;  before  him 
flood  a  chair,  in  which  fuch  as  were  to  be  waflied 
feated  themfelves  one  by  one.  The  firll  that  Avere 
wafhed  were  twelve  priefts,  but  the  humility  was 
carried  farther  than  with  the  Greek's ;  for  here  the 
whole  congregation  had  this  liberty,  without  dif- 
tinguifliing  the  richeft  merchant  from  the  lowefl 
fervant  of  the  flable,  of  which  two  conditions  this 
congregation  chiefly  confifts.  The  priefts  waflied 
and  dried  the  feet,  and  anointed  them  with  frefli 
butter,  which  they  faid  was  made  out  of  the  firft 
milk  of  a  young  cow.  The  perfon  waflied  and 
anointed  kiiled  the  prieft's  head,  went  chearfully 
away,  and  made  room  for  another,  which  they  told 
me  would  laft  a  good  part  of  the  night.  On  each 
fide  of  the  prieft  was  a  number  of  people,  old  and 
young,  who  fung  in  the  fame  difagreable  tone  as 
the  Greeks  had  done ;  but  in  the  literal  Armenian 

tongue, 


4^      TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

tongue^  which  is  likewife  ufed  in  their  public  wor- 
ftiip,  and  differs  as  much  from  the  Armenian  they 
commonly  fpeak  as  the  literal  Greek  does  from  the 
modern  Greek.  They  had  lefs  regard  to  order  and 
decency  here  than  amongft  the  Greeks.  He  that 
came  iirft  began  to  fmg ;  and  if  any  thing  was  to  be 
done,  as  dreffing  and  undreffmg  the  prieft,  lighting 
the  candles,  &c.  they  ran  to  and  fro  without  order. 
They  had  not  fo  many  lights  in  proportion  to  the 
fize  of  the  church>  which  is  large,  handfome  and 
magnificent,  and  by  far  furpaifes  the  Greek  church. 
The  fair  fex  never  ihewthemfelves  openly  in  any  of 
the  Chriftian  churches  in  the  Eaft,  or  mix  amongft 
the  men;  but  are  always  prefent  in  the  church, 
where  they  have  galleries  for  themfelves,  before 
which  are  fixed  lattices  through  which  they  may  fee 
all  that  paiTes  in  the  church,  but  cannot  be  feen. 

The  burial  of  our  Saviour  was  celebrated  by  the 
Greeks  in  the  afternoon  of  the  1 3th.  The  daughters 
of  Eve  have,  by  virtue  of  the  Evangelic  Hiftory,  re- 
ferved  this  ceremony  to  themfelves,  which  is  but 
right,  as  nature  has  made  them  propereft  for  what 
is  here  required,  namely,  to  weep.  I  know  not  how 
many  there  were  that  fulfilled  their  duty,  as  I  dared 
not  to  go  there.  Their  bowlings  were  difagreable 
enough  at  a  di (lance,  and  nothing  amiable  could 
be  feen,  as  they  were  veiled. 

The  Armenians  had  a  large  and  magnificent  mafs 
on  the  afternoon  of  the  14th,  Eafler  eve,  at  which 
I  was  prefent.  In  the  choir  beneath  the  altar  was 
placed  a  de/k,  on  which  were  laid  the  books  of  the 
Evangelifls,  wrote  in  literal  Armenian,  bound  in 
foho  in  red  and  gold  tiiTue.  On  one  fide  of  the  deflc 
was  placed  an  armed  chair,  which  was  occupied  by 
the  chief  prieft  (who  was  to  dire£l  the  aft  inflead  of 
the  Bilhop)  drelTed  in  his  black  prieftly  habit,  and  a 

cowl. 


TO     S    M    Y    It    N   A.  47 

cowl.  On  each  fide  of  him  fat  a  prieil  on  the  floor* 
drelfed  in  the  fame  habit.  Six  married  priefts  went 
forward  to  the  pulpit,  one  after  the  other,  fome  of 
which  read,  others  chanted,  foraething  out  of  a 
booL  They  were  dreifed  in  their  black  prieflly 
habits,  and  when  they  began  theiroffice,  a  handfome 
pall  was  put  on  them.  On  each  fide  of  the  pulpit 
flood  a  prieft,  having  a  pall  and  mitre,  who  held 
fome  wax  candles,  near  whom  were  fome  boys 
drelfed  in  white  furplices  adorned  with  crolfeSi 
When  thefe  had  made  the  round,  twelve  handfome 
young  men  came  up  to  the  fame  place  drelfed  in 
white  furplices,  which  reached  to  the  ground, 
adorned  on  the  back  and  ileeves  with  red  croifes. 
They  were  bare-headed,  fnaved  to  the  ears,  and 
the  crown  bald  like  the  Romifli  Monks.  As  far  as 
I  could  learn,  fome  of  thefe  were  difciples  to  the 
clergy,  the  others  common  fervants,  but  who  had 
the  advantage  to  have  been  at  the  hallowed  places 
near  Jerufalem,  and  acquired  the  name  of  Hadgi. 
They  were  all  handfome  and  well-made  youths, 
and  feeraed  to  be  fitter  to  be  under  the  command  of 
a  Colonel  than  a  Bilhop.  They  kiifed  the  Vice- 
Bifhop's  arm  as  they  went  forward,  and  obferved 
the  fame  at  their  return.  Each  of  them  chanted  or 
read  fomethiiig  out  of  a  book,  in  the  fame  manner 
as  the  former ;  and  betwixt  each  of  their  chanting, 
one  of  the  priefts  who  fat  on  the  floor  rofe  up,  and 
repeated  fome  words  thrice  over.  I  underftood  not 
what  they  were,  but  was  told  they  were  Gloria. 
Their  fong  ended,  one  of  them  that  had  before 
chanted  mounted  one  of  the  (leps,  and  flood  before 
the  altar,  which  was  hid  by  a  curtain.  After  he 
had  chanted  a  piece  out  of  the  fame  book,  the  vocal 
and  inftrumental  mufic  began  below  the  altar.  The 
latter  confided  of  fmall  iron  pipes,  not  unlike  a  kind 

of 


48       TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

of  dulcimer,  which  were  ftruck  againft  one  another; 
and  two  round  brafs  plates,  which  were,  according  to 
true  time,  {truck  together.  This  is  Turkifti  mufiG, 
and  does  not  found  very  bad  in  a  fong.  At  certain 
times  fmall  bells  might  be  heard.  After  the  mufic 
had  lafted  awhile,  the  curtain  which  hid  the  niche 
of  the  altar  was  opened,  when  an  old  venerable 
priefl  was  to  be  feen,  having  on  a  gilt  epifcopal 
mitre  adorned  with  precious  flones,  (landing  a  fmall 
diflance  from  the  altar.  On  each  fide  of  him  flood 
a  priefl  in  black  habit,  and  nearer  to  him  flood  the 
pricfts  who  had  before  been  at  the  pulpit  with  the 
incenfe  pot  and  candles  in  his  hands.  The  priell 
began  to  chant  and  give  benedidlons,  which  were 
anfwered  with  fmging  and  mufic  by  the  congrega- 
tion. A  little  while  after  the  Sacrament  was  brought 
forth  from  a  little  clofet  behind  the  altar.  It  was 
borne  by  one  of  the  above-mentioned  difciples, 
who  carried  It  as  high  as  his  head,  and  placed  it  on 
the  altar.  At  the  fame  time  came  another,  who 
took  the  mitre  off  the  prieft,  who  was  now  to  pro- 
nounce a  benediftlon  over  the  Sacrament  and  ex- 
hibit it  to  the  congregation.  Every  one  lighted  the 
candles,  which  were  before  diftributed  through  the 
whole  church  for  money,  and  were  large  and  nu- 
merous. Two  were  lighted  at  a  time,  as  fad  as  the 
ceremony  advanced.  The  largeft,  which  flood  on 
the  front  of  the  altar,  and  were  about  fix  inches 
diameter,  were  feemingly  lighted  when  the  Sacra- 
ment was  blelTed.  It  was  however  not  they  that 
burned,  but  fmaller  candles  fixed  to  the  top  were 
lighted  in  their  (lead.  The  priefls  chanted  and  the 
congregation  fung,  until  the  fcene  was  concluded. 
The  priefls  on  each  fide  had  a  plate  faflened  to  a 
long  flaff,  with  which  they  made  a  tinkling  when 
any  thing  of  confequence  was  performing  j  nor  did 

the 


TO      SMYRNA.  49 

the  pflefl  with  the  incenfe  pot  omit  his  duty,  for  he 
often  waved  and  diftributed  his  odours  both  towards 
the  akar  and  choir.  The  curtain  at  length  was  let 
down,  to  fignify  that  all  was  ended,  and  for  every  one 
to  return  home.  On  each  fide  of  the  principal  altar 
were  two  fmaller,  on  which  no  ceremonies  were  per- 
formed; but  in  a  handfome  large  chapel  without 
the  church,  there  was  mafs  read  by  other  priefts, 
for  thofe  who  had  not  room  in  the  church. 

The  15th,  Eafler-day,  the  feftival  of  the  Arme- 
nians and  Greeks  began.  The  manner  in  which  it- 
was  celebrated  by  the  latter  was  worth  notice,  as  it 
teftified  how  much  this  nation  retains  of  its  former 
inclinations  for  diffolute  diverfions  at  feflivals.  He 
that  knows  what  is  related  about  Bachanals,  &c.  of 
their  anceftors,  may  here  fee  the  remains  of  them 
in  their  offspring.  They  purchafe  from  their 
mafters  the  Turks,  the  liberty  of  purfuing  their 
pleafures  uncontrouled ;  for  which  they  pay  to  their 
Mufelem  in  Smyrna  one  purfe  (500  pieces  of  eight); 
but  in  Conftantinople  they  give  five  or  fix  purfes.  In 
confideration  of  this,  they  are  at  liberty,  iu  their 
houfes  and  in  the  ftreets,  to  get  drunk,  fight,  dance, 
play,  and  do  every  thing  their  hearts  defire.  An 
Eafler  feldom  palfes  in  Conftantinople,  without 
fome  perfons  being  murdered.  There  was  a  high 
mafs  in  both  churches  on  the  night  before  Eafter. 
This  concluded  about  midnight;  and  fcarce  was  it 
ended,  before  the  whole  congregation  cried  X^iro? 
dvis-vi,  becaufe  then  their  great  and  long  fad  had 
ended,  wherefore  they  in  that  very  moment  begsn 
to  eat  of  what  they  had  taken  to  church  with  them; 
and  having  begun  their  joy  in  church,  they  ruflied 
out,  in  order  to  return  with  pleafure  to  their  ordi- 
nary food;  and  this  ib  violently,  tha^-am  perfuaded 
many  received  raiferable  Eafter  Wrks,  who  were 
1^  juil; 


50      TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

JLift  beginning  their  joy.  A  high  mafs  and  magni- 
ficent procelTion  was  performed  by  the  Billiop  of  St. 
Trinity  church  about  noon  on  Eafler  day,  to  the 
honour  of  our  Saviour's  refurreftion.  There  was 
nothing  wanting  in  point  of  magnificence  and  fliew, 
which  could  attract  the  attention'  of  the  audience. 

The  1 6th  and  17  th,  nothing  was  to  be  heard 
but  the  Greeks  Eafter  frohcks,  in  the  flreets  and 
alleys,  houfes  and  yards.  They  ftrove,  efpecially 
the  mob,  who  lliould  eat  and  drink  moft.  They 
danced  their  Greek  dances  through  Frank-ilreet, 
after  bagpipes,  drums,  and  inllruments  unknown 
to  us,  but  neither  fo  tuneful  or  agreeable  as 
to  merit  much  attention.  They  had  a  fort  made  of 
the  peritoneum  of  oxen,  fpread  on  a  circle  of  ^wood, 
which  they  beat  with  their  fingers.  They  invent 
feveral  tricks  to  get  money  from  thofe  that  chufe  to 
look  on,  to  defray  the  expences  for  liquors.  Amongll 
the  refl,  I  faw  one  who  could  ballance  fo  well  with 
his  head,  as  to  fet  a  large  bottle  of  wine  on  it,  on 
which  he  laid  a  roll,  upon  this  a  glafs  of  water,  in 
which  he  put  a  ix)fe  bufh,  and  with  thefe  he  danced 
through  the  whole  ftreet,  hopp'd  and  kept  good 
tim.e.  In  their  fongs  they  often  cried  X^ifog  dvis-y\. 
No  murder  was  heard  of,  this  feftival,  as  the  Bifliop 
had  oh  Eafter-eve  ufed  the  precaution  to  declare 
him  excommunicated,  who  fl:iould,  during  the  holi- 
days, carry  a  knife  or  piflol  about  him.  The  Ar- 
menians are  a  more  fedate  and  wife  people,  and 
don't  celebrate  their  holidays  with  fuch  fuperfluities. 
I  never  faw  them  dance,  drink,  or  make  a  noife  in 
the  flreets;  but  if  they  divert  themfelves,  it  is  done 
in  fome  houfe  or  chan,  where  the  Armenian  fervants 
affemble  and  enjoy  innocent  diverfions,  or  a 
company  ride   out  on   horfeback,  in  which   they 

greatly 


T  O     S    M    Y    R    N    A.  51 

greatly   delight,    and  fliew  that    they  inherit   of 
their  forefathers  the  art  of  good  horfemanfliip. 

Sedekio  near  Smyrna,  is  a  remarkable  place, 
becaufe  the  great  Sherard,  who  in  his  time  was  Re^ 
gent  of  the  Botanic  world,  here  gave  Flora  a  feat, 
wherefore  it  cannot  but  be  viewed  with  plea- 
fure  by  a  Botanifl.  I  determined  to  vifit  this  place 
on  the  20th.  This  great  lover  and  patron  of  Bo- 
tany fpent  his  time  agreeably  here  every  furamer, 
during  his  flay  in  Smyrna  as  Conful  from  England. 
I  have  feen  the  houfe  where  he  hath  enjoyed  the 
greateft  pleafure  of  perhaps  any  European  that 
ever  was  in  this  country,  when  he  employed  his 
time  in  making  the  great  Botanical  colleftions,  by 
which  he  rendered  himfelf  immortal.  Near  the 
houfe  is  a  little  garden  laid  out  by  him,  "in  which  he 
introduced  no  foreign  plants,  nor  was  at  great  pains 
in  adorning  it.  He  knew  it  was  better  to  fpend 
his  time  and  money  on  fuch  matters  in  his  native 
country,  than  in  a  barbarous  place,  in  which  his 
flay  was  fo  uncertain. 


E  2  ALEX- 


52       TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 


ALEXANDRIA. 


AY  the  15  th,  I  rode  out  to  fee  the  gardens 
of  Alexandria,  which  were  the  firfl  places  I 
faw  after  my   arrival.      I  procured    an  equipage 
which  I  had  never  ufed  before.     It  was  an  afs  with 
an  Arabian  faddle,  which  confided  only  of  a  cufliion 
on  which  I  could  fit,  and  a  handforae  bridle.     On 
each  fide  of  the  afs  walked  an  Arab,  and  another 
followed,  who  took  care  to  help  me  along.     The 
beaft  Vv^as  one  of  the  handfomeft  to  be  feen  of  the 
kind,  lively  and  well  kept.     I  here  miffed  the  ad- 
vantage I  had  a  fortnight  before  of  riding  on  horfe- 
back.     The  great  opinion  Turks  have  of  themfelves, 
and  contempt  for  Chriftians,  Jews,  and  Moors,  are 
in  Egypt  very  evident ;  of  which  this  is  a  proof,  that 
they  never  permit  any  of  the  above-mentioned  peo- 
ple to  ride  on  a  horfe,  which  they  efleem  too  noble 
a  creature  to  bear  fuch  defpicable  wretches,  and 
which  ought  only  to  ferve  a  Mufelman.     A  few 
Arabs  or  Moors,  who  are  in  forae  efleem,  lawyers 
or  the  like,  are  permitted  to  ride  on  a  mule.     The 
Chrifllans  laugh  at  this  foolifh  behaviour,  which  is 
only  the  height  of  flupidity.     Since  cuflom  has  in- 
troduced the  ufe  of  thefe  creatures,  they  can  fcarcely 
be  deemed  defpicable :  but  on  the  contrary,  one 
may  in  fome  meafure  be  well  fatisfied  with  this  in- 
ftitution.     No  town  has  better   conveniences  of 

going 


TO     ALEXANDRIA.        53 

going  from  place  to  place  than  Cairo  or  Alexandria. 
The  ilreets  are  almoft  all  full  of  alTes.  A  perfon 
who  chufes  not  to  walk,  mounts  the  afs  he  likes 
beft,  and  gets  on  apace.  For  one,  two,  at  the  moft 
three  para,  he  may  ride  through  the  whole  town. 
The  Moors  own  thefe  beads,  and  value  them  high 
enough.  Few  would  imagine  that  they  pay  more 
for  fuch  a  miferable  beaft,  than  a  fine  horfe  cofts  in 
Europe  or  here.  The  perfon  who  owned  that  I 
rode  on,  faid  it  cofl  him  20  ducats,  and  that  he 
would  not  take  double  the  money  for  it,  as  it  fup- 
ported  him.  In  the  place  I  had  hitherto  refided,  I 
had  walked  in  gardens  of  Lemon,  Orange,  Fig  and 
Mulberry  trees.  I  had  feen  whole  fields  filled  with 
the  fined  vines.     1  had  travelled  through  forefts  of 

O 

Olive-trees,  and  reded  myfelf  in  the  agreeable 
groves  of  CyprefTes ;  but  I  faw  not  one  of  thefe 
Eadern  glories  in  Egypt.  Here  I  met  a  garden 
filled  with  other  forts  of  plants,  which  the  Creator 
hath  given  to  the  Southern  countries.  Palm  or 
Date  trees  now  defended  us  with  their  agreeable 
fhade.  I  began  immediately  to  enquire  of  the  in- 
habitants what  they  knew  concerning  the  quaiities 
of  this  vegetable,  in  order  to  encreafe  the  hidory  of 
them,  which  is  yet  fo  defective  araongd  Botanids  : 
As  whether  they  knew  any  thing  about  a  male  and 
female  of  the  Dates,  and  their  fecundation?  But  the 
French  interpreter  interrupted  m^y  enquiries  by 
changing  the  difcourfe. 

The  gothj  at  two  o'clock  in  the  morning,  I  left 
Alexandria  in  a  little  boar.  At  1 2  o'clock  I  came 
into  the  opening  of  the  Nile  that  leads  to  Rofetta, 
where  it  is  about  a  cannon  fliot  over.  The  fliores 
were  at  fird  dry  and  covered  with  fand  ;  but  farther 
Vip  the  country,  which  is  level,  they  were  full  of 
fine  Palni^-^r^es.   Tiie  ihores  afterwards  begame  nar- 

S  3  rawer, 


54      TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

rower,  and  were  elegantly  adorned  with  Rullies  and 
the  fineil  Rice-fields ;  yet  farther  in  were  clofe 
Palm-woods.  We  failed  by  two  fmaii  caflles.  Some 
villages  lay  on  our  left  hand,  fituated  on  Delta. 
Dolphins  and  PorpoilTes  tumbled  about  in  the  water. 
I  came  at  two  o'clock  to  Rofetta,  and  was  well  re- 
ceived by  the  French  Conful  Du  Salauze.  Towards 
evening  I  went  out  in  the  fields,  which  had  been  fowii 
with  Rice  eight  days  before.  The  Rice  was  three 
inches  high;  the  water  flood  four  fingers  high  on  the 
ground,  and  was  raifed  by  wheels  worked  by 
oxen,  and  conducted  on  the  fields  in  channels.  Tliis 
is  done  during  the  time  the  Rice  grows  and  ripens. 
I  heard  a  found  which  feemcd  artificial;  for  example, 
as  if  fomebody  had  knocked  together  hard  wooden 
flicks.  I  ailvcd .  what  it  was,  and  was  told  that  my- 
riads of  little  frogs  which  kept  under  water  emitted 
this  found.  We  were  on  the  road  perfecuted  by  two 
kinds  pf  creatures  of  different  nature,  tho'  both  in- 
tended to  hurt  us ;  they  were  Gnats  and  Buflaloes. 
The  latter  efpecially  feemed  to  be  angry  with  me 
and  the  interpreter  I  had  with  me,  as  we  were 
dreffed  in  red.  Our  JanifTary  was  obliged  to  drive  the 
animals  from  us  with  his  cudgel.  Under  the  Turkifli 
Government  one  mufl  always  be  ready  for  attack  and 
fence.  The  people  in  Rofetta  are  tolerably  civil ; 
therefore  a  perfon  is  in  no  danger  of  being  attacked 
by  them.  Our  other-enemies,  the  Gnats,  tho'  they 
were  much  weaker,  yet  could  not  be  fubdued 
by  this  guard.  Their  num.ber  made  them  intoler- 
able and  invincible.  The  Rice-fields,  becaufe  they 
are  conft:antly  under  water,  occafion  a  fwampy 
ground,  fit  for  the  fupport  of  thefe  vermin,  and  in 
thefe  they  lay  their  eggs.  They  were  a  different 
fort  from  thofe  we  have  in  Europe,  being  lefs ;  but 
bit  worfe,  and  left  great  boils  in  the  ikin,  with  an  in- 
tolerable 


TO     ALEXANDRIA.        ss 

tolerable  itching  in  the  place  they  bit.  They  are 
quite  different  from  thofe  I  fawat  Alexandria,  which 
were  as  larsre  as  we  have  them  in  Sweden,  but  of  a 
different  colour,  namely,  aili-coloured  with  white 
fpots  on  the  joints  of  the  legs. 

The  nth  of  June,  I  faw  at  Mr.  Bai'ton's,  the 
Englifh  Conful,  Tamarinds  which  clofed  their  leaves 
every  evening  towards  fun-fet.  A  variety  of  a  Cat 
head,  foraething  more  oblong  than  in  the  common 
Cats.  She  was  of  a  confiderable  fize,  being  the 
length  of  five  fpans,  three  and  a  half  high,  and  two  and 
a  quarter  broad.  This  fort  is  found  in  Egypt.  I  got 
forae  information  concerning  Sal  Armoniac,  and  how 
it  is  made  in  Egypt  in  large  quantities.  It  is  made 
of  Soot,  which  is  gathered  of  the  burnt  dung  of 
Oxen  and  Camels,  and  is  carried  hence  in  great 
quantities  by  the  Venetians.  The  manner  and  place 
of  making  it  is  kept  fecret.  The  Seine,  a  me- 
dicine which  is  ufed  in  Europe,  but  its  hiflory 
fcarce  known,  is  a  Lizard,  found  on  the  Ihcres  of 
the  Nile  in  Egypt,  and  even  in  the  houfes  up  in  the 
country.  It  is  dried  and  fold  to  the  Venetians  and 
Genoefe,  who  powder  it,  becaufe  then  m.ore  con- 
venient for  tranfportation;  wherefore  it  was  difficult 
to  know  whence  this  drug  came.  The  inhabitants 
of  Egypt  in  general  fear  this  animal,  and  few  are  to 
be  found  that  for  the  fake  of  gain  catch  and  fell 
them  to  the  Europeans.  The  Egyptians  ufe  this 
drug  to  excite  venery,  and  of  them  the  Europeans 
have  without  doubt  learned  to  make  the  fame  ufe 
of  it. 

I  SHOULD  mention  fomething  concerning  the 
hatching  of  Chicken  in  Egypt.  The  method  the 
women  ufe  is  extremely  odd.  They  put  the  eggs 
under  the  arm  pits,  and  have  the  patience  to  keep 
them  there  until  they  are  hatched  by  the  natural 

E  4  be.iL 


5^      TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

heat  of  the  body.  I  got  fome  corals  that  were 
taken  in  the  Red  fea. 

A  WHOLE  company  of  us  rode  out  on  afTes  on 
the  1 2th  of  June,  to  take  an  airing  with  the  Con- 
ful.  We  faw  an  incredible  number  of  peafants  on 
the  road  driving  afles  laden  with  dung,  and  fome 
with  Saf-flower  (Carthamus)  which  had  already 
been  reaped.  Both  were  defignedfor  firing,  to  fup- 
piy  which  article  every  thing  is  taken  in  Egypt, 
CajfTia  fiflula,  Oily  grain,  Bammia,  were  now  in  blof- 
fom.  On  our  return,  we  faw  a  number  of  women, 
who  went  about  inviting  people  to  a  banquet,  in 
a  fmgular,  and,  without  doubt,  very  ancient  man- 
ner. They  were  about  ten  or  twelve,  covered 
with  black  veils,  as  is  cuftomary  in  this  coun- 
try. They  were  preceded  by  four  eunuchs :  after 
them,  and  on  the  fides,  were  Moors  with  their  ufual 
walking  ftafFs.  As  they  were  walking  they  all 
joined  in  making  a  noife,  which  I  was  told  fignified 
their  joy;  but  I  could  not  find  it  to  referable  a  joyful 
or  pleafmg  fong.  The  found  was  fo  fingular,  that 
I  am  at  a  lofs  to  give  thofe  an  idea  that  have  not 
heard  it.  It  was  fhrijl,  as  womens  voices  commonly 
are ;  but  it  had  a  quavering  which  was  much  dif- 
tinguifhed,  and  which  they  had  learned  by  long 
praftice.  It  was  much  like  the  found  I  heard  the 
frogs  make  near  Rofetta. 

At  fix  o'clock  in  the  evening,  we  went  with  the 
French  Conful  to  fee  a  feftival,  which  was  cele- 
brated by  a  rich  Turk,  whofe  fon  was  to  be  circum- 
cifed.  The  father  was  one  of  the  richeft  private 
perfons  in  Egypt;  he  therefore  fpared  no  coft  to 
celebrate  this  fefiival,  which  is  by  the  Turks  done 
with  all  imaginable  grandeur.  The  iefiival  lafted 
30  days  before  the  circumcifion  of  the  child,  and 
this  was  the  lafl  day.     The  preparations  had  been 

alike 


TO     ALEXANDRIA.      57 

jilike  each  day  with  open  table  for  every  body,  fire- 
works, illuminations,  mufic  and  dancing,  &c.  We 
went  to  fee  the  illuminations,  which  were  made  in 
a  large  plain  before  the  father's  houfe.  They  were 
not  like  thofe  made  in  Europe ;  but  were  pretty 
enough  confidering  they  were  made  by  the  inhabit- 
ants of  this  country.  They  were  three  :  To  the 
right  in  a  corner  of  the  place  was  reprefented  a 
Rhombus,  which  was  terminated  by  a  fquare,  the 
.corners  of  which  were  cut  off.  To  the  left  in  the 
other  corner  was  reprefented  the  machine,  in  which 
the  Coran  every  year  is  carried  to  Mecha,  when  the 
caravan  with  the  pilgrims  travels  thither.  Here 
were  prettily  reprefented  the  carpets  raifed  and 
divided  into  pinnacles,  with  the  Camel  that  bore 
them.  In  the  middle  or  near  the  houfe  of  the 
Turk,  at  whofe  expence  this  fellival  was  celebrated, 
was  a  large  portico  ;  the  whole  was  conftrufled  of 
lamps  hung  on  cords,  without  any  other  building. 
The  fireworks  confifted  chiefly  in  a  great  number  of 
rockets,  which  mounted  well;  fome  wheels  and 
fountains,  with  two  boys  who  had  f aliened  round 
their  waifts  two  machines  refembling  horfes,  out  of 
which  poured  forth  fire  on  all  fides.  It  was  plea- 
fant  to  fee  the  people  who  had  aifembled  in  great 
numbers,  fit  ftill  on  the  field  in  a  ring,  without 
making  the  leafl  noife,  quite  contrary  to  what  is 
done  in  Europe  on  the  like  occafions.  The  mufic 
was  to  the  tafte  of  the  country,  with  hautboys 
and  kettle-drums.  They  brought  us  Coffee,  which 
was  of  the  beft  kind,  and  Carpets  in  cafe  we  woul4 
fit  down.  It  was  believed  that  the  expences  of  this 
circumcifion  amounted  to  8000  ducats.  Thefe  ex- 
pences are  in  a  great  meafure  paid  by  the  large 
prefents  he  receives  from  all  his  friends.  It  was. 
rumoured  that  this  man  had  received  twenty  or 
I  thirty 


58      TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

thirty  camels  laden  with  prefents.  On  fuch  occa- 
fions,  all  thofe  that  depend  on  him  mud  fliew  their 
duty  with  fome  prefents,  which  confift  in  camels, 
iheep,  oxen,  or  fomething  of  the  kind  that  belongs 
to  their  eftate. 

About  noon  on  the  2  2d  of  June,  appeared  fome 
Egyptian  dancers  under  the  windows  of  the  French 
houfe,  where  I  had  an  opportunity  of  feeing  them. 
Each  country  hath  its  peculiar  pleafures,  which  from 
times  immemorial  have  been  adapted  to  the  people's 
difpofitions.  The  Egyptians,  inclined  to  a  loofe  life, 
are  pleafed  with  the  tricks  and  inventions  of  thefe 
common  dancers,  as  they  are  entirely  adapted  to  ex- 
cite fenfual  defires.  It  is  furpriling,  that  in  a  country 
where  all  other  women  are  locked  up  and  guarded, 
thefe  fhould  be  permitted  by  the  government,  not 
only  to  {hew  themfelves  to  the  people,  but  even  to 
appear  in  the  commoneft,  and,  as  we  Europeans 
fhould  think,  moft  unbecoming  habits  and  geftures. 
Thofe  that  follow  this  pradice,  and  by  it   acquire 
money,    are  young  country  laffes,   and  fometimes 
married  women,  all  dark-brown,  and   little  better 
than  naked,  being  dreifed  in  a  blue  linnen  garment 
adorned  with  different  kinds  of  bells,  together  with 
a  parcel  of  hollow  filver  machines  which  ring  when 
they  move  themfelves,  and  make  part  of  the  mufic 
that  ferves  them  in  their  folly.     They  were  veiled 
according  to  the  cuflom  of  the  country,  with  a  cover- 
ing which  only  left  an  opening  for  the  eyes,  and 
hang  loofe  over  the  face,  which  they  adorned  with 
all  forts  of  tinkling  pieces  of  brafs,  filver,  and  even 
gold  if  they  could  afford  it.    They  feldom  appeared 
barefaced,  but  made  no  fcruple  to  difclofe  thofe 
parts  which  our  European  ladies  never  expofe  to 
public  view,  though  they  iliew  their  faces  without 
blulliing.     It  is  a  cuitom  introduced  in  later  times, 

which 


TO     ALEXANDRIA.        S9 

which  the  greatefl  part  of  the  old  men  imagine  as 
unbecoming  as  we  think  it  ridiculous  when  we  fee 
it,  but  retained  to  this  day  by  their  offspring  in  the 
Eaft.  The  mufic  they  ufed  on  this  occalion,  befide 
their  rattHng-fluff,  was  a  kind  of  drum  with  one 
head,  or  parchment  extended  on  a  wooden  circle, 
which  a  woman  beat  with  her  fingers;  and  a  kind 
of  violin  with  two  firings  to  it,  which  founded  more 
like  a  wind  inftrument  than  a  violin. 

About  noon  on  the  23d,  I  faw  a  burial,  which 
was  one  of  the  mofli  remarkable  procelTions  in  the 
country.  It  was  a  Scheik,  for  fo  they  call  the  Law- 
yers of  the  Moors  and  Arabs.  This  man  was  up- 
wards of  eighty  years  of  age ;  who  by  a  pious  and 
honefl  life  had  acquired  much  love  whilfl;  living, 
and  was  greatly  lamented  when  he  died.  It  was 
thought  that  he  had  acquired  fo  much  refpeft  by  a 
virtuous  life,  as  to  be  pronounced  a  Saint  at  his 
burial,  which  is  cuilomary  amongft  the  Mahome- 
tans as  well  as  Chriftians.  He  had  been  warden  of 
a  Mofque  lituated  in  the  Chriilian  quarter;  where- 
fore he  had  an  opportunity  of  making  himfelf  known 
and  efteemed  by  the  Chriftians,  to  whom  he  did 
good  fervices  on  thofe  occafions  wherein  they  needed 
his  alTiilance,  which  is  very  necelfary  in  a  tyrannical 
country.  Thefe  Scheiks  conilantly  endeavour  to 
gain  the  confidence  of  the  populace,  by  which  they 
make  themfelves  necelfary  and  even  dangerous  to 
the  Tarkiili  Regency,  as  being  capable  of  railing 
a  mob. 

The  proceffion  was  as  follows:  An  old  worthy 
Dervice  marched  foremoft,  bearing  an  enfign,  fucli 
as  they  have  on  the  Minarits  of  their  Moiques  at 
feftivals.  On  each  fide  of  him  walked  a  confider- 
able  Moor :  An  innumerable  croud  of  people  fol- 
lowed, all  men,  without  any  order,  fome  lining  the 

flreets. 


<5o       TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

flreets.  Amongft  thefe  were  feme  Scheiks  who 
carried  enfigns.  Then  came  the  corpfe  laid  in  a 
miferable  coffin  without  a  lid,  covered  with  a  piece 
of  coarfe  linnen.  After  which  followed  a  pretty 
large  number  of  v/omen,  all  veil'd  with  their  cufto- 
niary  black  garments.  Some  men  carrying  enfigns 
and  walking  in  ranks  clofed  the  proceiTion.  All  the 
men  cried  with  a  loud  voice,  and  called  to  God  in 
behalf  of  the  deceafed  and  themfelves,  which  occa- 
fioned  a  terrible  and  difagreeable  npife ;  but  the 
women  made  the  fame  noife  I  heard  when  they  in- 
vited to  a  banquet.  It  is  fmgular  enough  that  they 
fhould  not  rather  fmg  mournful  tunes :  I  ailced  the 
reafon,  and  was  anfwered,  they  imagined  that  joy 
agreed  better  than  fadnefs  when  a  righteous  man 
died,  at  whofe  happy  ilate  every  body  ought  to  be 
well  pleafed.  At  other  burials  in  Cairo  I  faw  wo- 
men lamenting.  It  was  extremely  odd  to  fee  how 
anxious  every  one  was  to  touch  the  corpfe.  It  was 
with  miuch  trouble  the  bearers  advanced,  on  ac- 
count of  the  number  of  people  that  thronged  upon 
them  to  enjoy  this  benefit.  After  they  had  touched 
the  corpfe,  they  raifed  their  hands  to  their  fore- 
head, at  the  fame  time  lifting  up  their  eyes  very  de- 
voutly. The  proceffion  went  through  the  ftreet 
where  the  French  have  their  houfe,  as  the  deceafed 
was  to  be  carried  to  a  Mofque  at  the  end  of  the 
ftreet.  This  was  very  difagreeable  to  the  Mufel- 
men  who  attended,  on  account  of  the  Chriflians  be- 
holding their  devotion;  and  for  every  bleifmg  they 
bellowed  upon  the  dead,  they  uttered  a  curfe  againll 
the  enemies  of  their  faith.  Conjurers  are  com-: 
mon  in  Egypt.  They  are  peafants  from  the  coun- 
try, who  come  to  Cairo  to  earn  money  this  way. 
I  faw  one  the  24th,  who  was  expert  enough,  and 
in  dexterity   ec^ualled  thofe   we  have  in  Eurppej 

but 


TO     ALEXANDRIA.       6i 

but  the  Egyptians  C9.n  do  ;one  thing  the  Europeans  . 
are  not  able  to  imitate;  namely,  fafcinate  fer- 
pents.  They  take  the  mod  poifonous  vipers  with 
their  bare  hands,  play  with  them,  put  them  in  their 
bofoms,  and  uie  a  great  many  more  tricks  with  them, 
as  I  have  often  feen.  The  perfon  I  faw  on  the  above 
day,  had  only  a  Imall  viper ;  but  I  have  frequently 
feen  them  handle  thofe  that  were  three  or  four  feet 
long,  and  of  the  mod  horrid  fort.  I  enquired  and 
examined  whether  they  had  cut  out  the  vipers  poi- 
fonous teeth ;  but  I  have  with  my  own  eyes  feen 
they  do  not ;  we  may  therefore  conclude  that  there 
are  to  this  day  Pfylli  in  Egypt;  but  what  art  they 
ufe  is  not  eafily  known.  Some  people  are  very  fu- 
perftitious;  and  the  generality  believe  this  to  be  done 
by  fome  fupernatural  art,  which  they  obtain  from 
invifible  Beings.  I  do  not  know  whether  their  power 
is  to  be  afcribed  to  good  or  evil;  but  I  am  per- 
fuaded  that  thofe  who  undertake  it  ufe  many  fuper- 
ilitions.  I  fhall  hereafter  give  a  plainer  defcrip- 
tion,  with  fome  obfervations  on  this  fubjeft. 

The  2d  of  July,  I  waited  on  the  Greek  Pa- 
triarch, who  hath  his  feat  here  inftead  of  Alex- 
andria, and  is  the  fucceflbr  of  St.  Athanafms.  He 
was  a  pious  man,  of  about  fixty  years  of  age,  feemed 
to  underfland  the  principles  of  his  religion  well,  and 
was  greatly  inclined  to  the  Evangelical  doftrine.  He 
fpoke  no  language  but  the  Greek,  and  was  dreffed 
in  the  habit  of  the  Greek  clergy.  I  went  after- 
wards to  the  Coptite  Patriarch,  an  Egyptian  of  the 
Cophtite  nation,  abont  forty  years  old.  He  was  not 
to  be  diftinguifhed  by  his  habit,  vv^hich  was  fuch  as 
are  worn  by  an  Arab  or  Turk.  He  was  very  po- 
lite, and  was  employed  at  ray  arrival  in  adjuiting  dif- 
ferences between  his  followers  ;  being  in  matters  of 
fraall  confequence  a  Judge,  or,  in  virtue  of  his  office, 

a  Mediator. 


6i       TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

a  Mediator.     He  ordered  fome  perfons  to  (liew  me 
his  Patriarchal  church  :  the  entrance  to  it  was  in  a 
narrow  dark  ftreet,  through  a  miferable  little  gate, 
which  indeed  was  only  a  hole  cut  through  a  brick 
wall.     The   church   confilled  of  two   ftories;  the 
under  ilory  being  pretty  large  divided  into  five 
rooms,  with  clofets  that  went  acrofs,  one  joining 
the  other.     In  the  foremofl  flood  the  altar  in  a 
niche  under  an  arch,  on  which  lay  a  manufcript 
Ritual  in  the  Cophtite  language.   The  clofet  with- 
out this  room  was  elegant  enough,  and  well  con- 
ftructed  after  the  tafle  of  the  country,  with  coftly 
woods    from  India  in  all  parts  inlaid  with  large 
croffes  and  other  ornaments  of  ivory.     On  the  altar 
flood  a  few  candleilicks,  which  partook  of  the  fim- 
plicity  of  the  firll  church.     The  feet  of  them  were 
of  Sycamore;  and  a  fmall  bough  of  the  fame  tree 
ferved  for  an  arm  or  pipe,  to  the  fide  of  which  the 
candle  was  faflened:  from  the  cieling  hung  feveral 
lamps,  the    cords   of  which   were   adorned  with 
Oilriches  eggs :  on  the  walls  were  a  parcel   of 
painted  pannels  ;  the  Virgin  Mary  with  the  infant 
Jefus ;  St.  George  on  horfeback,  fighting  with  the 
dragon ;  St.  Antony,  with  a  great  many  more  of 
their  Saints,  were  reprefented  in  the  ancient  manner 
of  painting.     Among  the  reft  of  the  pannels  fome 
naked  women  were  painted ;  which  they  faid  were 
in  remembrance  of  fome  Indians,  by  their  church 
regarded  as  Saints.     There  were  no  carved  images. 
It  was  remarkable  to  fee  amongft  other  things  in 
their  church,  a  number  of  crutches,  made  of  un- 
barked  boughs  of  Sycamore  and  other  trees,  about 
three  feet  long,  and  of  moderate  thicknefs,  with  a 
crofs  at  the  upper  end  about  a  foot  long.     A  parcel 
of  them  ftood  in  the  choir  or  foremoft  room,  and  in 
every  other  place  in  the  church;  but. in  the  room 
2  neareft 


TO      ALEXANDRIA.       63 

nearefl  the  door,  lay  thoufands  of  thefe  flafFs.  I  en- 
quired for  what  ufe  they  were  defigned ;  and  was 
anfwered  by  a  Cophti,  that  in  former  times,  in 
the  beginning  of  the  church,  the  Chriftians  had  ufed 
them  for  arms,  to  defend  themfelves  from  their  ene- 
mies when  they  came  upon  them  during  divine  fer- 
vice;  and  from  that  time  it  has  been  cuflomary  for 
every  ©ne  to  have  fuch  a  ftaif  during  the  time  mafs 
is  read  ;  which  now  ferve  only  to  lean  on  with  the 
arms,  for  which  they  are  commodious  and  neceffary 
in  a  church  where  no  benches  are  to  be  feen. 

The  3d.  Now  was  the  time  to  catch  all  forts  of 
Snakes  to  be  met  with  in  Egypt,  the  great  heats 
bringing  forth  thefe  vermin  :  1  therefore  made  pre- 
paration to  get  as  many  as  I  could,  and  at  once  re- 
ceived four  different  forts,  which  I  have  defcribed 
and  preferved  in  Aqua  Vit^e.  Thefe  were  the  com- 
mon Viper,  the  Cerafles  of  Alpin,  Jaculus,  and  an 
Anguis  marinus.  They  were  brought  me  by  a 
Pfilli,  who  put  me,  together  with  the  French  Conful 
Lironcourt  and  all  the  French  nation  prefenr,  in 
conflernation.  They  gathered  about  us  to  fee  how 
ftie  handled  the  moll  poifonous  and  dreadful  crea- 
tures alive  and  brifk,  without  their  doing  or  even 
offering  to  do  her  the  leafl  harm.  "vYhen  llie  put 
them  into  the  bottle  where  they  were  to  be  pre- 
ferved, file  took  them  with  her  bare  hands,  and 
handled  them  as  our  ladies  do  their  laces.  She  had 
no  difficulty  with  any  but  the  Vipers  Ofiicinales, 
which  were  not  fond  of  their  lodging.  They  found 
means  to  creep  out  before  the  bottle  could  be 
corked.  They  crept  over  the  hands  and  bare  arms 
of  the  woman,  without  occafioning  the  leail  fear  in 
her  ;  Ihe  with  great  calranefs  took  the  fnakes  from 
her  body,  and  put  them  into  the  place  deftined  for 
their  grave.     She  had  taken  thefe  Serpents  in  the 

field 


6^      TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

field  with  the  fame  cafe  flie  handled  them  before 
us ;  this  we  were  told  by  the  Arab  who  brought  her 
to  us.     Doubtlefs  this  woman  had  fome  unknown 
art  which  enabled  her  to  handle  thofe  creatures. 
It   was    impoffible   to  get   any   information   from 
her;  for  on  this  fubjeft  llie  would  not  open  her  lips. 
The  art  of  fafcinating  Serpents  is  a  fecret  amongft 
the  Egyptians.     It  is  worthy  the  endeavours  of  all 
naturalifls,  and  the  attention  of  every  traveller,  to 
learn  fomething   decifive    relative   to   this    affair. 
How  ancient  this  art  is  amongft  the  Africans,  may 
be  concluded  from  the  ancient  Marii  and  Pfylli,  who 
Were  frcm  Africa,  and  daily  fliewed  proofs  of  it  at 
Rome.     It  is  very  remarkable  that  this  fhould  be 
kept  a  fecret  for  more  than  2000  years,  being  known 
only  to  a  few,  when  we  have  feen  how  many  other 
fecrets  have  within  that  time  been  revealed.     The 
circumflances  relating  to  the  fafcination  of  Serpents 
in  Egypt  related  to  me,  were  principally,  i.  That 
the  art  is  only  known  to  certain  families,  who  propa- 
gate it  to  their  offspring.    2.  The  perfon  who  knows 
how  to  fafcinate  Serpents,  never  meddles  with  other 
poifonous  animals ;  fuch  as  Scorpions,  Lizards,  &c. 
There  are  different  perfons  who  know  how  to  faf- 
cinate thefe  animals ;  and  they  again  never  meddle 
with  Serpents.     3.  Thofe  that  fafcinate  Serpents 
eat  them  both  raw  and  boiled,  and  even  mal<:e  broth 
of  them,  which  they  eat  very  commonly  amongfl 
them  ;  but  in  particular,  they  eat  fuch  a  difli  when 
they  go  out  to  catch  them.     I  have  even  been  told 
that  Serpents  fried  or  boiled^  are  frequendy  eat  by 
the  Arabians,  both  in  Egypt  and  Arabia,  though 
they  know  not  how  to  fafcinate  them,  but  catch 
them  either  alive  or  dead.     4.  After  they  have  eat 
their  foup,  they  procure  a  bleffing  from  their  Sckeik 
(Priefl  or  Lawyer)  who  ufes  fome  fuperftitious  cere- 
monies. 


TO     ALEX  AN  D  R  I  A.       6s 

monies,  and  amongft  others,  fpits  on  theni  feveral 
times  with  certain  geftures.  This  matter  of  getting 
a  bleffing  from  the  Priefl  is  pure  fuperflition,  and 
certainly  cannot  in  the  lead  help  to  fafcinate  Ser- 
pents ;  but  they  believe,  or  will  at  lead  perfuade 
others,  that  the  power  of  fafcinating  Serpents  de- 
pends upon  this  circumftance.  We  fee  by  this,  that 
they  know  how  to  make  ufe  of  the  fame  m^eans  ufed 
by  other  nations  ;  namely,  to  hide  under  the  fuper- 
ftitious  cloak  of  religion,  what  may  be  eafily  and 
naturally  explained,  efpecially  when  they  cannot  or 
will  not  explain  the  natural  reafon.  I  am  inclined 
to  think  that  all  which  was  formerly,  and  is  yet 
reckoned  witchcraft,  might  come  under  the  fame  ar- 
ticle with  the  fafcination  of  Serpents.  The  difco- 
very  of  a  fmall  matter  may  in  time  teach  every  body 
to  fafcinate  Serpents ;  and  then  this  power  may  be 
exercifed  by  thofe  who  have  not  got  it  from  the 
hands  of  a  holy  Scheik,  jiifl  as  the  heat  would  na- 
turally hatch  chicken  in  an  Egyptian  oven;  whether 
a  Scheik  did  or  did  not  lay  himfelf  naked  on  it,  when 
the  eggs  are'jufl  put  in;  yet  to  this  ceremony  do 
the  fuperft itious  Egyptians  afcribe  the  happy  event 
of  the  chicken  being  hatched,  when  they  are  aiked 
the  reafon.  I  have  been  told  of  a  plant  with  which 
they  anoint  or  rub  themfelves  before  they  touch  the 
Serpents ;  but  I  have  not  hitherto  received  the  leall 
defcription  of  it,  therefore  I  regard  it  as  fabulous^* 

*  Mr.  Jacquin,  in  a  letter  to  Sir  Charles  Linnsus,  fays,  that 
the  Indians  in  the  Weft-Indies  charm  Serpents  with  the  Arilto- 
lochia  Anguiceda ;  and  the  late  Mr.  Forfkohl  on  his  travels  to  the 
Eaft,  likewife  informed  Dr.  Linnsus,  that  the  Egyptians  ufe  a 
fpecies  of  Arillolochia  (Birthwort)  but  does  not  determine  which 
ipecies  it  is. 

F  From 


66      TRiVVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 


From    Cairo    to    the    Egyptian 

PyR  A  MIDS. 


I  Left  Cairo  at  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  of  the 
17  th,  accompanied  by  a  Janiffary  and  my  fer- 
vant.  I  had  befides  for  companions  a  traveller,  born 
in  Aleppo,  and  bred  at  the  court  of  the  German 
Emperor,  who  was  entitled  a  Baron,  furnamed  Bur- 
kana,  and  had  lately  arrived  from  Rome  j  a  Geor- 
gian Chriftian,  who  was  a  phyfician  here,  and  a 
Jew  Rabbi  from  Nuremberg.  We  all  rid  on  alTes. 
After  we  had  rid  through  the  miferable,  narrow, 
foggy,  and  unpaved  flreets  of  Cairo,  we  came  into 
a  pretty  fpacious  and  uninhabited  plain,  which  re- 
fembied  a  little  defart;  but  with  this  difference,  that 
fome  Sycomore  and  Tamarilks  adorned  this  dry  and 
fandy  plain  with  their  green  leaves. 

We  afterwards  came  to  Old  Cairo,  which  is  a 
fuburb  to  Cairo.  We  faw  fome  large,  and  accord- 
ing to  the  tafte  of  this  country,  handfome  houfes,  as 
we  paffed  by,  which  are  the  fummer  habitations  of 
the  Turkifli  grandees.  Adjoining  to  each  was  a 
large,  handfome,  and  fpacious  garden,  with  fine  trees 
of  Caffia,  Acacia,  Plaintain,  Dates,  Tamariik,  Senfitive 
plants,  and  many  others,  but  all  in  diforder,  being 
entirely  left  to  nature.  Thefe  feats  were  fituated 
4  on 


TO    THE    PYRAMIDS*        67 

on  the  Nile,  and  were  fuch  as  might  certainly  pleafe 
the  poffelTors  of  thenL 

The  moft  remarkable  thing  at  Old  Cairo,  was 
the  place  where  the  depth  of  the  water  is  taken^ 
when  the  Nile  encreafes.  This  is  a  pretty  large 
houfe,  built  in  a  fquare  near  the  river.  Its  roof 
terminates  in  a  white  pyramid :  in  the  foundation 
wall  are  holes,  through  which  the  water  has  a  free 
entrance :  in  the  middle  of  the  building  is  erected  a 
marble  obelilk,  on  which  is  a  fcale  of  inches.  Here 
they  daily  fee  whether  the  river  decreafes  or  in- 
creafes,  till  the  water  is  let  into  the  town  and  over 
the  country.  The  Regency  fends  fomebody  hither 
to  take  the  mark  every  hour;  and  at  this  time  their 
fuperftition  will  not  permit  any  but  Mahometans  to 
enter  it.  It  was  therefore  impoffible  for  us  now  to 
fee  the  infide  of  this  holy  place,  but  I  had  an  oppor- 
tunity of  feeing  it  another  time.  We  went  in  a  flat- 
bottom  boat  over  the  Nile,  with  our  aifes  and  all  our 
equipage,  and  landed  on  the  other  fide  at  Gifa,  one 
of  the  handfomefl  villages  round  Cairo,  where  they 
make  Sal-armoniar.  We  continued  our  journey  to 
another  village  fome  diflance  from  this,  where  we 
lay  that  night.  It  gave  me  fmgular  pleafure  to  fee 
the  perfeft  hufbandry  praftifed  here,  in  a  level 
country,  with  villages,  peafants,  women,  fields,  cat- 
tle, hufbandry,  utenfils,  &c.  in  them.  Egypt  re- 
ferables  entirely  our  fiat  country  in  Europe.  At 
this  time  every  thing  was  like  our  autumn  :  the 
fields  were  dry  and  bare,  and  in  the  plains  was 
fcarce  a  green  leaf  to  be  feen,  except  in  fome  places 
where  the  fields  were  fown  with  Cucumbers  and  Se- 
famum  (oily  grain).  It  is  in  our  winter  and  fpring, 
from  December  to  the  month  of  March,  that  Egypt 
is  in  its  glory  ;  for  then  the  Nile  is  confined  within 
its  banks,  and  the  fields  are  fown.     Then  a  perfon 

F  2.  '  can 


68       TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

can  fee  from  a  little  hill  a  ftriking  refemblance  of  a 
green  fea,  I  mean  the  verdant  earth,  without  being 
able  to  fee  the  end.  "We  came  to  our  quarters,  and 
were  politely  received  by  the  Sheick,  who  was  the 
principal  man  in  the  Village.  He  ordered  us  to  be 
conduced  to  a  large  room  of  a  ftone  houfe,  which 
was  the  property  of  a  Turk  in  Cairo.  After  fome 
time  we  got  our  fupper,  which,  after  the  manner  of 
the  country,  was  fparing.  Our  Sheick  had  killed 
two  kids.  In  the  fame  water  they  were  cooked,  was 
alfo  boiled  a  quantity  of  wheat-bread  to  a  pudding  : 
of  this  they  filled  two  veffels,  each  as  large  as  two 
men  could  carry.  In  the  middle,  and  upon  the 
bread,  was  boiled  rice  ;  round  the  edges  the  meat 
was  laid,  cut  into  fmall  pieces ;  the  floor  ferved  for 
a  table  ;  a  rufli  mat  for  a  table  cloth ;  the  palm  of 
the  hand  for  a  fpoon,  and  the  fingers  for  knives  and 
forks.  A  perfon  that  cannot  be  fatisfied  with  this 
treatment  from  Arabs,  will  fare  but  indifferently 
amongil  them :  but  if  he  takes  in  good  part  the 
well-meaning  manner  in  which  they  treat  ftrangers, 
I  doubt  whether  more  good  will,  franknefs,  and  hof- 
pitality,  is  to  be  met  with  amongft  any  nation  than 
amongfl  them.  This  hath  been  the  manner  of  their 
fathers,  whofe  hiftory  we  have  in  the  Scriptures; 
and  fuch  it  is  to  this  day,  and  will  remain  fo  for 
ever.  We  fet  out  at  break  of  day  for  the  place  of 
our  dellination.  After  we  had  travelled  an  hour 
and  a  half  over  plains,  and  near  feveral  villages,  we 
came  to  the  Arabian  tents,  who  have  their  camp 
round  the  Pyramids.  Their  chief  is  a  Scheck,  and 
without  his  permiffion  none  can  approach  the  Pyra- 
iTiids.  He  fent  his  eldeft  fon  out  on  foot  to  meet 
and  welcome  us,  and  he  conduced  us  to  a  little 
houfe,  built  for  travellers,  at  fome  diflance  from 
their  tents.    I  there  ordered  him  the  prefents  I  had 

brought 


TO    THE    PYRAMIDS.        6^ 

brought  with  me ;  and  after  he  had  given  us  coffee, 
we  mounted  our  affes.  The  Scheck  came  then  him- 
felf  from  his  quarters,  accompanied  by  his  youngeft 
fon,  both  mounted  on  excellent  horfes,  and  con- 
duced us  to  the  Pyramids.  There  I  learned  the 
difference  between  a  real  and  imaginary  idea,  be- 
tween feeing  a  thing  with  one's  own  eyes,  or  thofe 
of  others.  I  had  read  all  the  defcriptions  travellers 
have  given  of  thefe  Pyramids ;  I  had  feen  drawings 
of  them  ;  I  had  heard  them  defer ibed  by  thofe  who 
had  been  here :  and  more  than  that,  I  had  myfelf 
feen  them  at  various  diftances  fmce  I  came  to  Egypt; 
but  with  all  this,  I  knew  not  what  the  Egyptian 
Pyramids  were  until  I  came  within  twenty  yards  of 
them ;  and  lefs  yet  did  I  know  of  their  inward  ap- 
pearance until  I  had  been  in  them.  We  firil  went 
round  the  largeft  and  handfomeil  Pyramid,  to  con- 
template its  height,  breadth,  form  and  conllruftion. 
After  the  entrance  had  been  opened,  and  we  had 
lighted  our  flambeaus,  and  difcharged  fome  piftols 
at  the  entrance,  we  went  in.  The  Scheck  and  his 
fon  faithfully  kept  clofe  to  my  fide  through  all  the 
vaults,  walks,  and  rooms.  We  went  in  at  feven,  and 
came  out  half  an  hour  before  nine  o'clock.  After 
we  had  come  out,  I  began  alone,  whilft  the  others 
were  taking  fome  refrefliment,  to  climb  up  on  the 
out-fide,  and  gather  what  natural  ia  I  there  found  of 
flones  and  petrifaftions.  I  chofe  the  Weft  fide,  and 
kept  neareft  the  left  corner,  becaufe  it  was  eafieft 
there  to  afcend.  I  had  already  got  to  the  middle  of 
the  Pyramid,  and  between  each  ftep  found  fome- 
thing  worth  notice ;  when  the  ftones,  heated  by  the 
fun,  began  to  burn  through  my  boots,  and  therefore 
were  much  lefs  to  be  touched  with  the  hands,  which 
prevented  me  for  this  time  from  reaching  the  top, 
and  obliged  me  to  content  myfelf  with  gathering 

F  3  at 


70      TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

at  the  foot  of  it  whatever  I  could  find  worth  notice. 
We  afterv^ards  went  to  the  fmaller  Pyramids,  round 
which  I  rid,  and  beheld  attentively  their  appear- 
ance.    I  was  determined  to  know  whether  ftones 
alone  muft  fatisfy  my  curiofity,  and  if  a  burning 
fand  had  excluded  every  thing  that  had  life  from 
this  place.     If  I  had   not  fearched  attentively,  I 
Ihould  certainly  have  been  of  the  opinion,  and  con- 
firmed what  I  was  told  in  Cairo,  that  no  living  crea- 
ttire,  much  lefs  a  plant,  was  to  be  found  near  the 
Pyramids.    The  earth  is  of  fuch  a  nature  here,  that 
it  would  appear  to  many  a  miracle,  if  any  animal  or 
plant  could  here  find  nourifhment  and  fuftenance.    I 
found   however  both;    namely,    one   fmgle  plant, 
which  was  Gum  Succoury(Chondrillajuncea).  Of  ani- 
tnals,  I  found  the  little  Lizard,  which  I  had  every 
where  feen  running  on  the  walls  in  the  Levant,  run- 
ning here  in  numbers  on  the  fand.     But  what  moft 
pleafed  me  was  a  Lion  Ant  (Hemerobius  Formicaleo) 
which  infects  have  their  own  republic.     Thefe  run 
by  hundreds  in  the  fand,  in  the  fame  manner  as 
Pifmires.     Each  held  ftone,  fand,  or  rotten  bits  of 
wood  between  their  curious  jaws  or  maxillae,  and 
haftened  with  them  to  the  dwellings  they  had  made 
in  the  fand.     I  fav/  numbers  of  this  infecl's  nefts. 
They  were  thrown  up  in  tufts  in  the  fand,  about 
the  bignefs  of  the  two  fifts,  and  a  little  deprefied  at 
the  top.  In  the  middle  of  this  depreilion  was  a  little 
hole,  about  the  bignefs  of  a  fmall  pipe  flem,  through 
which  they  went  in  and  out.      I  attacked  them 
within  their  intrenchments,  in  hopes  of  feeing  the 
inward  conflru£lion  of  their  nefts,  but  I  was  de- 
ceived, and  only  demoliflied  their  outworks ;  from 
which  went  a  private  pafl'age,  fo  artfully  conduced, 
that  it  was  in  vain  to  endeavour  to  come  to  their  in- 
uermoft  dwelling.     All  the  architecture,  magnifi- 
cence, 


TO     THE    PYRAMIDS.       jt 

cence,  and  expence  that  fliine  in  the  excellent  Py- 
ramids, cannot  give  a  contemplator  of  nature  fuch 
high  ideas,  as  the  art  of  thefe  Httle  creatures  can 
excite. 

Between  the  tents  of  the  Arabs  and  the  Pyra- 
mids, I  faw  the  dreadful  large  image,  mentioned  by 
every  author.  It  was  now  fo  much  abufed  that  no- 
thing like  a  face  was  to  be  feen.  The  Arabs,  who 
as  Mahometans  fuffer  no  images,  have  entirely  ruined 
the  face,  by  calling  their  lances  at  it.  It  mufl  have 
been  an  excellent  piece  formerly,  as  the  whole  image 
was  cut  out  of  one  part  of  a  iimeftone  mountain. 

We  returned  to  the  Arabian  tents.  I  was  curious 
to  fee  in  perfon  their  manner  of  living,  of  which  I 
will  give  a  fliort  defcription.  The  Arabians  alTem- 
ble  in  certain  families,  who  occupy  a  place  where 
they  ereft  their  tents.  Thefe  chufe  a  Scheck  or 
Leader.  His  office  is  to  compromife  quarrels  be- 
tween them,  and  lead  them  on  when  they  are  at- 
tacked. Their  ceconomy  is  compendious,  but  quire 
fufficient  to  make  life  agreeable  :  they  dwell  in 
tents,  which  commonly  are  made  of  camels  hair : 
they  are  divided  in  fuch  a  manner,  that  the  women 
live  in  different  rooms  from  the  men ;  as  both  fexes, 
according  to  the  cuftom  of  the  Eaft,  are  not  per- 
mitted to  live  conflantly  in  the  fame  room ;  nor  are 
women  permitted,  by  the  Mahometan  religion,  to 
fhew  themfelves  to  other  men.  The  furniture  of 
the  rich  confifls  of  a  mat,  which  they  fpread  over  the 
ground  in  their  tent;  upon  which  they  place  a 
fofFa  which  ferves  them  for  table,  chairs,  and  bed. 
They  have  fome  copper  veiTels  in  which  they  boil 
their  viftuals,  and  fome  wooden  diflies  in  which  thev 
ferve  them  up.  Their  eflate  confifts  in  cattle,  as 
horfes,  ailes,  camels,  oxen,  cows,  fheep  and  goats, 
of  wh'ch  each  family  hath  their  own  before  the 

F  4  tent. 


72       TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

tent.  For  this  reafon  they  keep  a  number  of  dogs. 
At  this  time  the  Arabs  had  all  their  cattle  at  home, 
and  fed  them  with  cuttings  of  flraw  and  dried  tre- 
foil, but  the  horfes  with  barley.  At  the  time  of  the 
year  when  Egypt  is  verdant,  they  fearch  for  fuch 
places  as  will  afford  food  for  their  cattle.  The 
greateft  property  of  the  Arabians  confifls  in  horfes. 
They  have  reafon  to  fet  a  great  value  on  them,  as 
they  are  certainly  the  fined  and  bed  in  their  kind 
that  can  be  feen.  An  Arabian  horfe  is  .(lender,  has 
a  long  neck,  clean  legs,  fine  fkin,  is  full  of  fire,  and 
runs  very  fafi:.  They  are  raoflly  forrel  or  brown 
bay,  but  fome  are  white  and  iron  grey  mixt.  A 
black  horfe  is  very  rare  to  be  feen.  If  they  get  one 
of  this  colour,  without  fpots,  they  reckon  hira  un- 
lucky, and  part  with  him.  The  Arabs  are  excel- 
lent horfemen ;  they  fit  faff  and  well  on  a  horfe,  being 
ufed  from  their  youth  to  it.  Their  faddles  are  almofl 
made  in  the  fame  manner  as  ours;  but  the  hindmoft 
tree  is  fo  high,  that  it  covers  more  than  half-way  up 
the  rider's  back.  The  ftirrups  are  flat  in  the 
Turkifli  manner,  and  hide  the  whole  foot.  They 
never  ufe  a  girt,  ^vhich  makes  it  fo  much  the  more 
difficult  to  ride  and  mount.  The  Arabian  youths 
often  ftand  fi:raight  in  the  faddle,  whilfi:  the  horfe 
runs  in  full  career,  and  keep  themfelves  in  a  juft 
ballance,  throw  their  lances,  and  turn  backwards 
and  forwards ;  fome  of  them  whihl  the  horfe  runs 
in  full  fpeed,  throw  themfelves  over  and  fi:and  on 
their  heads  in  the  faddle.  Their  cloaths  are  not 
very  elegant.  Over  the  body  they  have  a  piece  of 
white  woollen  cloth,  which  they  cafl  feveral  times 
up  and  down  from  the  feet  over  the  flioulders,  fo 
that  they  always  have  their  arms  at  liberty :  they 
likewife  ufe  linnen.  Thofe  with  whom  1  was,  had 
red   gampaches  rotind   their   legs,  and   a  turban 

round 


TO    THE    PYRAMIDS.        73 

round  the  head.  Then'  arms  are  a  lance,  commonly 
twelve  feet  long,  with  a  point  at  one  end,  which 
they  ufe  in  battle,  and  when  they  take  a  long  ride ; 
a  battle-ax  faftened  to  a  flick  of  three  feet  length, 
with  a  little  edged  oblong  iron  club  failened  to  fuch 
another  Hick;  thefe  they  conftantly  carry  with 
them.  They  ufe  no  fire  arms,  nor  fabres,  nor 
knives. 

The  Arabs  are  of  a  middling  fize,  full  of  flefh, 
but  not  fat ;  they  have  flrong  mufcies  and  a  rough 
fkin ;  their  countenance  is  dark  brown ;  and  after 
they  are  married  they  let  their  beards  grow,  which 
are  always  black. 

With  the  new  moon  at  feven  o'clock  in  the 
morning  on  the  27  th,  began  the  time  when  all 
the  Mahometans  invert  the  order  of  nature,  turning 
night  into  day,  and  day  into  night.  This  is  their 
famous  Kamazan  or  Ramadan,  which  lafls  for 
thirty  days,  or  the  whole  courfe  of  the  moon.  Under 
all  this  time  every  Mufelman  refrains  from  meat, 
drink,  tobacco  and  coffee.  In  a  word,  none  can 
without  punifliment  take  a  drop  of  water  from  fun- 
rife  to  Jun-fet ;  but  no  fooner  is  the  fun  gone  down 
than  they  begin  to  eat,  drink,  and  be  merry  until 
fun-rife.  All  minarets,  or  fleeples  of  their  Mofques, 
are  at  this  time  adorned  with  burning  lamps  all  the 
night  long,  as  likewife  are  the  principal  flreets.  I 
went  on  a  balcony  at  feven  o'clock  of  an  evening,  to 
fee  Cairo's  innumerable  minarets  illuminated,  which 
afforded  a  fine  fight. 

On  the  27th  was  celebrated  a  feflival,  to  which 
nature  gives  Cairo  alone  a  right,  and  therefore  can- 
not be  celebrated  at  any  other  place  in  the  world. 
It  was  on  this  day  that  the  water  of  the  Nile  was  let 
into  the  town,  and  therefore  a  beginning  was  made 
fo  Egypt's  fertility  for  the  enfuing  year.     As  the 

good 


74      TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

good  or  bad  fortune  of  the  country  depends  on  this 
day,  in  refpeft  to  the  plenty  of  the  water,  it  is 
juftly  one  of  the  moft  folemn  in  the  whole  year. 
The  Nile  is  entirely  under  the  direftion  of  man  :  it 
overflows  the  country,  but  wanders  not  at  will :  it  is 
conducted  to  all  parts  of  the  countries  which  may 
•want  it,  with  prudence  and  circumfpeftion  ;  but  the 
art  of  man  cannot  contribute  to  its  encreafe.  This 
is  the  work  of  nature.  When  the  Nile  begins  to 
encreafe,  a  dam  of  earth  is  cafl  up  at  the  opening 
of  the  ditch,  which  the  Emperor  Trajan  made  from 
the  river,  and  goes  through  the  city,  which  for- 
merly ended  in  the  fea  at  Rofette,  after  having  wa- 
tered the  whole  country  through  which  the  ditch 
was  made.  When  the  water  hath  rifen  to  a  fuf- 
ficient  height,  which  can  be  feen  by  the  famous 
l^ilometre,  this  dam  is  opened  and  the  ditch  filled 
with  water,  which  is  afterwards  encreafed  and  led 
over  the  whole  country.  The  day  this  is  done  is  a 
feflival,  and  was  now  celebrated.  The  feflival  was 
not  fo  remarkable  this  year  as  in  others,  becaufe  the 
Turks  had  now  begun  their  Ramadan,  when  every 
body  is  filent  and  devout.  The  fcene  was  com- 
monly performed  in  this  manner:  the  Balliaw  in 
Cairo,  accompanied  by  a  detachment  of  looo  or 
more  JaniiTaries,  with  his  Kiaja  and  other  officers, 
goes  to  the  dam  on  horfeback  at  feven  o'clock  in  the 
morning,  where  he  enters  a  Tchioil-c  (an  open  fum- 
mer-houfe)  and  orders  thofe  that  are  to  open  the 
dam  to  hold  themfelves  in  readinefs.  The  honour 
of  opening  the  dam  is  divided  between  the  Turks, 
Cophti,  and  Jews,  and  is  opened  by  them  in  their 
turn.  When  every  thing  is  ready  for  opening,  the 
Bafhaw  throws  with  his  own  hands  a  fpade  upon  the 
dam.     This  done,  it  is  removed  by  thofe  who  are 

appointed 


TO    THE    PYRAMIDS.        75 

appointed  for  the  purpofe,  with  the  loudeft  accla- 
mations of  numbers  of  people. 
.  The  Turkifli  Emperor  had  fent  a  new  Bafhaw 
into  Egypt,  which  happens  almoft  every  year.  Ali 
Bafliaw,  who  fix  months  before  was  grand  Vizir,  was 
now  appointed  Bafhaw.  He  came  on  the  evening  of 
the  1 6th,  to  Bulack,  after  a  voyage  of  ten  days  on 
the  Nile.  He  had  been  long  coming  a  ftiort  voy- 
age ;  but  thefe  velTels  have  neither  fails  nor  oars, 
being  drawn  with  ropes  by  a  number  of  people 
on  the  ihore.  At  the  arrival  of  a  Bafliaw,  the  Beys 
and  other  officers  in  Cairo,  make  handfome  prepa- 
rations to  receive  him.  With  thefe,  the  Englifli 
Conful  Mr.  Barton  and  I  rid  out  to  fee  the  procef- 
fion.  After  we  had  come  out  of  the  city  and  Bu- 
lack, we  alighted  and  went  along  the  fliore  on 
foot.  We  had  the  Nile  on  our  left  hand,  which 
now  had  rifen  to  a  tolerable  height,  fmooth,  and 
agreeable  to  behold;  and  on  the  right,  magnificent 
grand  tents  of  the  Beys  and  other  grandees;  before 
each  was  a  fine  illumination  of  lamps  in  different , 
figures,  hung  upon  cords.  I  went  into  the  tent  of 
a  young  Bey,  in  which  was  a  room  capable  of  con- 
taining two  hundred  perfons;  the  whole  of  the  in- 
lide  covered  with  fine  cloth  of  gold,  with  foifas  of 
the  fame  kind,  and  fine  Indian  carpeting  on  the 
earth:  a  magnificence  much  more  becoming  a 
Prince,  than  a  perfon  who  fome  years  ago  was 
bought  for  fifty  or  fixty  piaflers,  whofe  bufinefs  was 
to  fit  on  his  knees,  pour  out  coffee,  and  light  the 
tobacco  pipe  for  one  who  had  rifen  in  the  fame 
manner  to  honour.  This  is  the  rife  of  the  Egyp- 
tian Regents.  The  Bafliaw  had  landed  with  his  vef- 
fels  on  the  other  fide  of  the  river,  oppofite  the  tents, 
where  he  lay  over  night  in  his  veffel.  The  next 
corning  he  came  over,  and  was  received  on  the 

fkore 


76      TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

ftiore  by  all  the  Beys,  with  much  magnificence.  He 
mounted  a  horfe,  and  they  accompanied  him  on 
foot  to  a  houfe  hard  by,  where  the  Bafliaw  com- 
monly remains  for  fome  days  before  he  makes  his 
entry  into  the  city.  He  forms  a  wrong  idea  of  the 
Turks,  who  imagines  them  to  be  rough,  unpolite,  and 
ignorant  of  what  we  term  complaifance.  They  are  far 
from  wanting  it.  I  received  on  this  occafion,  as  I 
had  often  done  before,  feveral  proofs  of  it.  Se- 
veral who  knew  us  not,  defired  us  to  walk  in,  and 
we  were  politely  treated  by  them. 


ADc- 


THE     CARAVAN.  77 


A  Defcription  of  the  Mecca  Caravan 
from  Cairo. 


THE  Caravan  goes  every  year  from  Cairo  to 
Mecca,  about  this  time.  The  Bey's  march 
from  the  city,  is  one  of  the  moft  remarkable  cere- 
monies of  any  to  be  feen  in  the  Eaft.  I  had  an  op- 
portunity of  beholding  it  on  the  i  oth  of  February. 
It  began  at  eight  o'clock  in  the  morning,  and  went 
rSpm  a  place  below  the  palace,  where  all  thofe  aflem- 
ble  who  are  to  go  to  a  place  without  the  city,  where 
the  Caravan  hath  its  encampment.  They  obferved 
the  following  order  on  this  occalion  :  i.  A  number 
of  fpare  camels  faddled.  2.  Six  field  pieces  on  their 
carriages,  drawn  by  fix  horfes.  3.  Six  Palangains 
conftrufted  of  grand  filk  hangings,  which  covered  a 
foffa,  each  carried  by  two  camels,  the  one  behind 
the  other.  They  are  for  the  ufe  of  the  Bey,  and 
the  principal  officers  on  the  journey.  All  the 
others  muft  ride  on  camels.  4.  About  forty  camels 
with  provifions,  and  as  many  with  ammunition.  5.  A 
number  of  camels  carrying  water  in  leather  bags, 
for  whofe  fupport  handibme  legacies  have  been  left 
by  the  former  Sarracenian  Sultans  of  Egypt,  which 
flill  continue  to  be  paid.  6.  Beds  for  the  fick,  car- 
ried by  camels,  one  on  each  iide.  7.  Field  mufic 
of  drums,  kettle-drums  and  hautboys.  8.  A  num- 
ber 


78      TRAVEX.S  TO  THE  EAST. 

ber  of  fpare  camels  with  empty  faddles,  in  n» 
order,  followed  by  a  number  of  Scheks.  9.  Six 
fine  large  led  horfes,  excellently  faddled,  out  of  the 
Turkifli  Emperor's  (table,  which  he  keeps  in  Cairo, 
to  ferve  at  grand  ceremonies.  10.  The  Bafhaw's  chief 
eunuch  (Kiflar  Aga)  with  his  flaves,  above  twenty, 
on  horfeback.      11.  A   number  of  fpare   camels. 

12.  A  number   of    fine   well-faddled   led   horfes. 

1 3.  The  Commiffary  of  the  Turkifli  Emperor,  whom 
he  keeps  here  to  buy  flaves  of  both  fexes,  horfes, 
jewels,  curiofities,  &c.  14.  A  number  of  fpare  camels, 
adorned  with  oflrich  feathers  on  their  heads,  and 
with  {hells  and  pearls.     On  fome  of  them  rid  black 
flaves,     15.  A  number  of  Scheks  on  foot.     16.  The 
officers  led  horfes.     17.  The  officer  who  hath  the 
infpe^lion  over  the  water  on  the  journey,  and  is  one 
of  the  greateft,  with  his  flaves  in  armour.     18.  Two 
pair  of  kettle  drums ;  a  large  one  and  a  fmaller  to- 
gether.     19.  A  number  of  fpare   camels,  about 
lixty.    20.  A  troop  of  Pilgrims  on  foot,  followed  by 
fome  Scheks.     21.  A  troop  of  camels  laden  with 
water.     22.  Two  pair  of  kettle-drums,  followed  by 
a  number  of  well-drefled  camels  in  three  troops,  be- 
tween each  a  pair  of  kettle-drums.    23.  Two  guides 
riding  on  camels ;  thefe  were  old  men,  each  holding 
a  red  enfign,  adorned  with  green  Arabian  letters, 
in  his  hand.     24.  A  Cadi,  who  is  one  of  the  prin- 
cipal officers  of  the  Caravan,  and  manages  what- 
ever relates  to  religion  and  juftice  on  the  journey, 
followed  by  a  number  of  enfigns  of  different  colour: 
after  which  came  a  number  of  green  enfigns  carried 
by  Scheks.     25.  The  Turkifli  cavalry  (Spahi)  in  the 
fame  order  as  at  the  Baflriaw's  entry;  but  with  this 
difference,  that  each  troop  was  clofed  by  a  number 
of  officers,  flaves  riding  on  camels,  fome  dreflTed  in 
black,  others  in  white  cloaks,  and  numbers  of  led 

camels 


THE     CARAVAN.  79 

camels  with  rich  faddles,  and  covered  with  velvet 
houfings.  26.  The  Janiffaries  on  foot,  intended  to 
efcort  the  Caravan  on  the  journey,  to  the  number 
of  four  hundred.  27.  The  Bey's  two  horfe  tails 
and  two  enfigns.  28.  The  Bey's  Secretary,  fol- 
lowed by  forae  officers  of  the  JanifTaries.  29.  The 
Aga  of  the  JanifTaries  and  Azapes,  in  his  drefs  of 
ceremony,  attended  by  his  ilaves  and  ordinary 
guard.  30.  All  the  Beys  in  ceremonial  habits,  with 
their  officers  and  attendants.  31.  The  corps  of  the 
Azapes,  with  their  officers  in  the  fame  order  as  be- 
fore, with  a  number  of  Cuiraffiers  on  foot,  armed 
in  the  ancient  manner.  32.  The  corpfe  of  Janif- 
Taries with  their  officers,  preceded  by  a  number  of 
young  flaves  on  foot.  33.  Some  officers  of  the 
Bafhaw's  court,  in  white  cloaths.  34.  The  Bey  him- 
felf,  who  commands  the  Caravan,  followed  by  Seven 
Kiaja,  and  his  flave  Cuiraffiers.  On  his  right  was 
carried  a  green  enfign,  which  is  the  one  that  is  by 
the  Bafliaw,  in  the  Emperor's  name,  delivered  him, 
to  be  hallowed,  by  touching  Mahomet's  grave  with 
it;  and  he  is  enjoined,  at  the  peril  of  his  life,  to 
carry  it  fafe  backwards  and  forwards.  It  is  after- 
wards fent  over  to  Conflantinople,  and  is  a  great  en- 
couragement to  all  faithful  Mufelmen,  as  they  fol- 
low it  without  fear  againfl  their  enemies.  The  Bey 
was  a  man  of  feventy  years  of  age,  rich  and  well 
efteemed,  and  was  now  a  fourth  time  employed  as 
conduftor  of  the  Caravan.  35.  The  treafurer  of 
the  Bey,  with  other  officers  of  his  court.  36,  His 
mufic,  confiding  of  a  number  of  kettle-drums,  trum- 
pets and  hautboys,  clofed  by  ten  drums,  all  on 
camels.  37.  I  afterwards  faw  nothing,  but  an 
amazing  number  of  Scheks  (rulers  of  the  church) 
divided  into  troops,  and  Dervices  (who  are  the  fame 
amongft  the  Turks  as  Monks  amongft  the  Pap  ids) 

all 


8o      TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

all  on  foot.     There  were  enfigns  of  differeiit  colours 
to  each  troop,  fome  green,  others  yellow,  others 
red,  and  others  white  atid  red,  &c.    One  troop  car- 
ried long  reeds,  fuch  as  grow  near  the  Nile,  inftead 
of  enfigns.     I  was  told  thefe  were  the  fifliermen  of 
the  Nile.    The  inventions  thefe  people  had  in  their 
inarch  were  innumerable,  and  all  ridiculous,  giving 
them  more  the  appearance  of  people  that  had  lofl 
their  fenfes  than  of  rational  beings.     All  repeated 
in  a  high  tone  of  voice,  but  without  the  lead  har- 
mony, the  Mahometan  confeffion  of  faith.  They  all 
continually  call  their  heads  backwards  and  forwards. 
They  mull  either  have  ftronger  heads  than  other 
people,  or  be  well  praclifed,  to  be  able  to  continue 
this  motion  fo   long,  without  being  afFefted  with 
fwimmings.     With  each  troop  were  fome  that  had 
difguifed  themfelves  in  different  manners.     38.  The 
cavalcade  was  compleated  by  the  camel  that  carried 
the  paviliion,  under  which  are  fuppofed  to  be  the 
carpets  the  Emperor  fends  yearly  to   Mecca,    to 
cover  the  magnificent  mofque  in  which  Mahomet's 
tomb  is.   The  camel  was  moil  magnificently  adorned 
with  feathers,  ribbands,  lace,  falfe  pearls.  Sic.  and 
conduced  himfelf  in  fuch  a  manner  as  to  do  honour 
to  his  office.     The  paviliion  he  bore  was  formed 
like  a  pyramid,  about  fix  feet  high,  and  covered 
with  green  filk,  emboifed  with  gold  and  filver  letters. 
Under  this  the  carpets  were  fuppofed  to  be  car- 
ried; they  were  not  however  there,  but  were  packed 
up  and  loaded  on  other  camels,  fo  that  this  had  only 
the   honour,  without  bearing  the  load.     A  beafl; 
chofen  for  this  occafion  may  certainly  be  deemed 
happy  in  comparifon  to  others  of  his  kind.   After  he 
has  made  this  journey,  he  is  kept  in  a  liable  during 
the  remainder  of  his  life,  a  penfion  being  allowed 
for  his  fuftenance,  and  is  ferved  very  carefully  by 

feveral 


THE      CARAVAN.  8i 

feveral  perfons  appointed  for  the  purpofe,  being 
free  from  all  future  labour.     The  tapeflry  fent  to 
Mecca  is  made  by  Coptites  in  Cairo,  v/ho  have  a 
certain  number  of  rooms  allowed  them  in  the  palace. 
They  are  black  ftuff,  woven  only  for  this  purpofe, 
and   embofled   with   letters   of  gold.      They    are 
changed  every  year;  and  thofe  that  are   carried 
there  one  year,  are  taken  back  again  the  next,  being 
then  divided  into  feveral  pieces,  moil  of  which  are 
fent  to  the  Turkiih  Emperor,  who  gives  part  of  them 
to  fome  Mofque  for  covering  the  doors,  or  to  fome 
of  his  greateft  favourites,  as  valuable  prefents.  The 
Bey  of  the  Caravan  referves  fome  for  himfelf,  and 
gives  a  piece  to  the  principal  officers.     It  was  plea- 
fant  enough  to  fee  how  the  mob  crouded  towards 
the  camel  as  he  palfed,  in  order  to  touch  the  pavil- 
lion,  which  they  elleemed  holy.     Thofe  that  could 
not  come  fo  near  as  to  touch  it  with  their  hands, 
threw  their  handkerchiefs  or  failies  on  it,  that  they 
might  at  leaft  polTefs  fomething  which  had  touched 
fo  holy  a  thing.    I  aiked  my  companion,  who  knew 
the  cuftoms  of  the  country,  whether  they  did  not 
make  a  fuperftitious  ufe  of  thofe  things ;  but  he 
denied  it,  faying,  that   they  only  keep    them   in 
teftimony  of  having  feen  a  thing,  for  which  they 
have  fo  great  a  veneration.     Some  travellers  fay, 
that  the  Alcoran  is  carried  under  this  pavillion; 
but  I  know  not  whence  they  have  taken  this  rela- 
tion.    I  have  aiked  Turks  that  were  well  informed 
of  every  thing,  but  all  anfwered,  that  no  Coran  is 
under  it.     The  Turkifli  Emperor  gives  of  his  re- 
venues from  Egypt  to  the  Bey  20,000  ducats,  to 
defray  the  expences  he  is   at  in   conducting  the 
Caravan.     A  Bey,  who  only  makes  the  journey 
once,  gains  nothing  by  it,  but  rather  lofes,  on  ac- 

G  count 


S2      TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

count  of  the  many  valuable  equipages  he  mud  pro- 
cure, and  the  prefents  he  is  obliged  to  make  the 
Arabian  Princes  through  whofe  territories  he 
marches,  that  may  allow  him  a  free  paffage,  which 
he  hath  fometimes  difficulty  to  gain  even  with  pre- 
fents. After  the  Bey  has  thus  marched  the  Ca- 
ravan with  all  its  attendants  through  the  city,  he  en- 
camps at  the  diftance  of  about  half  a  day's  journey, 
in  a  large  plain,  where  he  waits  eight  days.  In  this 
time  all  affemble,  who  either  out  of  devotion,  or  on  ac- 
count of  traffic,  intend  to  go  to  Mecca.  It  was  ru- 
moured that  the  Caravan  would  this  year  confiil  of 
40,000  fouls.  A  number  of  women  alfo  undertake 
this  journey  every  year.  The  Caravan  is  divided  into 
two  troops;  one  confiils  of  thofe  which  come  from  the 
whole  African  coaft,  from  Tetuan  and  Morocco,  to  the 
three  Ptepubhcs  of  Barbary.  Thefe  make  about  1 0,000 
men,  Vv^ho  in  going  bring  up  the  rear  of  the  Ca- 
ravan; but  returning,  they  are  in  the  front.  When 
one  refl.e£l:s  on  the  long  journey  they  take,  who  come 
from  the  remotefl:  parts  of  Africa,  and  go  to  Arabia, 
and  that  the  countries  they  pafs  through  over  land 
are  uninhabited  defarts  of  burning  fand,  we  cannot 
but  conclude  that  they  are  induced  to  undergo  thefe 
hardfliips  by  an  inconceivable  zeal  and  religious 
fervour.  The  other  troop  confifl s  of  Turks,  from  all 
parts  of  the  Turkilh  Empire,  except  Syria,  and 
thofe  that  border  on  Perfia,  who  form  another 
Caravan  at  Damafcus,  which  meets  and  joins  this  at 
an  appointed  place  on  the  road.  The  Turks  traffic 
confiderably  on  this  journey.  They  do  not  all  go 
out  of  devotion,  that  travel  to  Mecca  :  a  confiderable 
number  go  for  the  fake  of  gain.  They  buy  from 
the  Franks  in  Cairo,  and  carry  to  Arabia  Cloths,  Co- 
chineal, Spices,  Lead,  Brafs^  falfe  Pearls,  and  other 
things,  together  with,  what  iliould  have  been  firfl 

mentioned> 


THE     CARAVAN.  83 

mentioned,  an  immenfe  quantity  of  Spanllli  or 
German  Dollars.  They  bring  back  Coffee,  Opo- 
balfamum  (Balfam  of  Mecca)  Myrrh,  Frankincenfe, 
Zedoary,  with  other  drugs,  China  ware  from  India, 
fine  Cotton  Stuffs,  Turbans,  Indian  Silks  and  Tiffue, 
or  Gold  Stuffs,  Szc.  By  thefe  merchants  the  Bey 
gains  confiderably :  for  the  time  is  always  fixed  how 
long  the  Caravan  is  to  be  on  the  journey,  and  how 
long  it  may  flay  in  Mecca.  If  the  merchants  cannot 
fettle  affairs  within  the  limited  time,  which  is  very 
fiiort,  they  defire  the  Bey  to  defer  his  march  for 
fome  days,  to  which  he  complies,  provided  they 
pay  him  a  certain  fura  every  day,  which  they  wil- 
lingly do,  as  their  profit  can  well  afford  it. 


G  2  FROM 


84      TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 


From  Cairo  to  the  burial  Places  of  the 

Mummies. 


IT  was  now  a  convenient  time  to  vifit  the  burial 
places   of  the   ancient  Egyptians,    where   em- 
bahned  bodies  are  yet  to  be  found,  under  the  name 
of  Mummies,  as  the  journey  might  be  made  in 
boats  acrofs  the  country,  which  was  now  under 
"Water.     I  fet  out  on  the  1 6th,  accompanied  by  Mr, 
Roboly,  a  French  interpreter  in  Alexandria,  twor 
janilTaries,  and  two  French  merchants.     We  came 
to  Old  Cairo  towards  evening,  and  lodged  with  fome 
Syrian  merchants  from  Damafcus.  Whilil  we  waited 
for  fupper,  we  fent  for  one  of  this  country's  mufi- 
cians,    who   was   a    Chriftian    Coptite,    to   amufe 
tis  with  his  mufic.     His  inftrument  was  common  m 
Egypt,  and  in  many  other  places  of  the  Eaft,  being 
without  doubt  of  great  antiquity,  and  probably  re- 
fembled  David's  harp.      The  Chriftian  CoptiteSy 
and  even  the  Franks,  who  trade  here,  call  it  Pfal- 
terium.     It  is  in  the  form  of  an  oblique  triangle,  fo 
large  as  to  lay  commodioully  on  the  knees  when 
they  play  on  it.     It  has  two  bottoms,  two  inches 
from  each  other,  with  about  twenty  catguts  of  dif- 
ferent fizes.     Our  mufician,  whilft  he  was  playing, 
fang  fome  Arabian  fongs  on  Providence,  a  contented 
mind,  &c.  which  afforded  an  agreeable  entertain- 
ment.    It  was  perhaps  with  this  fimple,  but  inge- 
nious, inftrum.ent,  that  David's  Pfalms  were  fung 

and 


Sepulchres  of  the  Mummies.         85 

acid  performed.     We  went  the  17th  at  fun-rife,  on 
hoard  one  of  the  veffels  in  the  Nile,  after  we  had 
encreafed  our  company  with  our  landlords.     We 
failed  firfh  for  the  large  Pyramids,  which  I  had  a 
mind  to  fee  once  more,  as  well  for  their  being  fo 
much  worth  notice,  as  particularly  for  the  pleafure 
I  now  had  of  coming  to  them  on  the  water,  the 
fame  way  I  fome  months  before  had  gone  by  land. 
This  voyage  is  the  pleafanteft  that  can  be  imagined. 
We  failed  in  from  two  to  four  feet  water;  and  thofe 
places  which  the  water  hath  not  yet  overflown,  or 
where  it  had  already  begun  to  decreafe,  appeared 
clothed  with  a  charming  verdure,  a  great  part  fowm 
with  Turkey  wheat,  and  fome  parts,  tho'  but  few, 
with  Lucern,the  latter  not  being  commonly  fown  be» 
fore  the  water  has  entirely  decreafed.  Innumerable 
flocks  of  different  kinds  of  birds  are  to  be  feen  on 
the  places  not  under  water,     J  particularly  faw  the 
Royfl:on  Crow,  or  common  Crow  (Corvus  Cornix) 
Sand  Piper  (Tringa  Hypoleucos)  which  had  lately 
arrived,  a  kind  of  Dotteril  (Charadrius)  as  large  as 
a  Dove,  which  I  have  defcribed;  the  common  field 
Lark   (Alauda   arvenfis)  a  kind  of  Crane,  Ardea 
virgo  temporibus  crifliatis,  the  oriental  Crane  (Ardea 
orientalis)  which  I  have  defcribed  in  Smyrna.     The 
Pelecan  (Pelicanus  Onocratalus)  which  flew  by  us  in 
large  flocks :  as  this  is  rhe  time  of  their  migration, 
when  they  come  to  thefe  Southern  parts  from  the 
Black  Sea  and  the  coafl:s  of  Greece,  the  ufual  places 
of  their  fymmer's  refidence.  All  thefe  excited  my  at-^ 
tention,  but   none   fo  much  as   the  Crane,   call'd 
Ibis :  I  thought  this  mofl;  remarkable,  as  an  incre- 
dible number  covered  the  fields.     A  perfon  that 
haih  the  leafl;  knowledge  of  Nature's  ceconomy,  may 
eafily  find  why  the  Creator  hath  ordered  this  bird 
to  come  in  fuch  numbers  to  the  marfliy  Egyptiaq 
G  3  fields 


85      TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

fields  at  this  time:  here  they  find  in  great  abundance 
their  proper  food,  from  the  number  of  frogs  that 
cover  the  country  when  the  waters  decreafe,  and 
multiply  extremely  during  the  time  of  the  flood.  The 
bird,  by  feeking  its  proper  food,  does  the  country  a 
fmgular  fervice, freeing  it  from  vermin;  which, were 
they  to  remain  and  rot,  would  certainly  occafion  a 
fl:ench  mortal  to  men  and  hearts.  This  bird  never  leaves 
Egypt.  I  have  feen  it  all  the  time  the  country  Was  dry, 
but  never  in  fuch  numbers  as  now  in  certain  places, 
as  they  can  then  range  over  the  whole  country ;  but 
now  the  water  obliges  them  to  feek  for  dry  places. 
When  the  frogs  are  not  fo  numerous,   it  lives  on 
little  grafhoppers,  and  other  infects  which  are  never 
wanting  in  the  burning  fields  of  Egypt;  and  they 
would  certainly  be  in  much  greater  numbers,  if 
they  had  not  this  enemy.     I  have  (hot  it  in  both 
feafons  of  the  year,  but  found  a  remarkable  differ- 
ence in  its  fatnefs,  which  proves  that  at  this  time  it 
gets  greater  plenty  of  proper  nourifliment.  The  ac- 
counts of  Bellonius  concerning  the  birds  that  come  to 
Egypt  during  the  overflowing  of  the  Nile,  are  very 
juil.     About   noon   we  came  to   the  large  Pyra- 
mids.    Thofe  of  my  companions  who  had  not  feen 
the  inward  conflruclion  of  the  largeil  went  in,  and 
I  took  the  opportunity  of  looking  for  natural  curio- 
fities.    I  found  none  but  fuch  as  I  had  feen  here  be- 
fore, except  a  fine  black  Jafper,which  will  bear  a  good 
poliili.     The  remarkable  Rat  (Mus  Jaculus)  which 
the  Egyptians  call  Gerbua,  or  Yerbua,  and  which 
I  have  already  defcribcd  (Aft.  Upfal.  1750,  p.  17.) 
and  the  little  thin  Lizard,  Vv'hich  I  faw  here  for  the 
firfl  time  (Lacerta  ^Egypriaca).     This  was  by  the 
ancient  Egyptians  fo  far  honoured,  as  to  have  its 
image  engraved  on  an  antique  jacinth  in  my  pofTef- 
fellion.     1  now  determined  to  put  in  execution  my 
I  intention 


Sepulchres  of  the  Mummies.         87 

intention  of  climbing  to  the  top  of  the  Pyramid, 
which  the  heat  prevented  me  from  doing  before; 
but  it  feemed  as  if  forrane  had  refolved  that  the 
weather  fliould  always  hinder  me  from  reaching 
above  the  middle  of  its  height.  When  I  had  got  to 
the  middle,  there  came  fuch  a  wind,  that  I  and  my 
fervant  were  glad  to  find  ourfelves  in  a  part  of  the 
Pyramid  where  we  could  lay  ourfelves  down  between 
the  fteps,  until  the  violence  of  it  had  gone  over  us.  I 
thought  it  therefore  too  much  to  venture  to  proceed 
farther,  as  in  cafe  of  another  fuch  accident  1  might 
not  perhaps  find  the  fame  flielter.  We  continued 
our  voyage,  which  through  the  carelefsnefs  of  the 
mafter  was  not  fo  agreeable  as  before.  He  carried 
us  to  places  where  the  water  was  not  deep  enough, 
fo  that  our  boat  ftuck  fall  in  the  mud.  It  was  not 
fo  dangerous  to  run  a-ground  here,  as  before  d^Iand 
or  Yarm.outh.  The  watermen  of  the  Nile  knew  a 
convenient  method  of  helping  the  boat  forward.  Six 
of  them  went  on  each  fide,  put  their  flioulders  under 
the  gunnel,  and,  as  it  were,  carried  the  Vv^hole  boat, 
in  which  were  above  twenty  perfons,  with  much 
baggage.  In  the  evening  we  came  to  Abufir,  a  vil- 
lage,  near  which  is  one  of  the  holes  leading  to  the 
Sepulchres  of  the  Mummies.  Before  we  reached  the 
land,  the  fliore  was  full  of  people,  old  and  young, 
women  and  children,  who  came  out  of  the  village  to 
fee  and  enquire  what  we  wanted.  Peafants  are  in 
every  place  curious  and  full  of  wonder,  when  they  fee 
llrangers;  and  the  Egyptians  are  moreover  fufpi- 
cious.  The  Scheck  of  the  village  came  on  board, 
accompanied  by  two  of  his  neighbours,  who  had  the 
appearance  of  Arabs,  armed  with  fabres  and  pillols. 
They  enquired  our  errand,  and  permitted  fiieep  to 
be  brought  us  for  money,  to  be  drefled  for  our 
fupper.    The  old  man  went  away  immediately,  and 

G  4  left 


88      TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

left  us  his  companions.  He  was  fcarce  got  on 
flaore,  when  he  made  figns  to  our  Janiffaiies,  that 
they  were  permitted  to  fire  on  thofe  who  remained 
on  the  fliore  after  him;  which  the  boys,  of  whom 
the  croud  chiefly  confifled,  took  in  good  earnell, 
and  went  home.  Thefe  two  men  fupped  with  us  very, 
moderately  and  rationally.  My  interpreter  afked  one 
of  them,  who  was  a  large  and  ftrong  man,  why  he  eat 
fo  little  ?  He  anfwered,  "  A  fool  eats  more  than  na- 
"  ture  requires,  and  afterwards  (ickens  with  it."  Our 
guefts  wiflied  us  a  good  night,  and  we  refted  in  our 
boat,  where  we  were  better  off  than  if  we  had  re- 
moved to  fome  of  the  miferable  huts  of  the  peafants. 
On  the  i8th,  in  the  morning,  the  Scheck  of 
Abufir  fent  us  a  cake  of  flower,  honey,  butter  and 
water.  The  relifli  of  it  was  heightened  by  the  Am- 
ple and  well-meaning  manner  in  which  we  knew  it 
was  given.  The  greatefi:  virtue  the  Egyptians  and 
Arabs  have  retained  of  thofe  that  were  to  be  found 
amongft  their  forefathers,  is  hofpitality.  It  would 
be  a  great  error  in  the  father  of  a  family,  to  let  a 
ftranger  go  away  without  having  treated  him  with 
fomething.  A  perfon  who  is  hungry,  and  finds  them 
eating,  may  boldly  feat  himfelf  by  them,  and  eat 
with  them,  without  fear.  This  is  a  liberty  they 
defire  to  have  returned,  as  well  by  their  equals  as 
others.  "We  walked  to  the  cave  of  the  Mummies. 
On  the  other  fide  of  the  village  we  met  with  a  wood 
of  the  ^Egyptian  Acacia,  which  in  this  dry  fand  was 
a  mere  flirub,  whereas  in  good  ground  it  grows  to  a 
large  tree.  It  was  yet  in  bloflbra,  and  at  the  fame 
time  bore  ripe  and  unripe  fruit.  We  met  with  hares 
(Lepus  timidus)  round  this  wood  in  fuch  numbers, 
that  without  dogs  v/e  killed  fome  of  them  as  they  run 
by  us.  This  occafioned  my  interpreter  to  come  hi- 
ther again,  after  we  had  returned  to  Cairo,  for  the 

fake 


Sepulchres  of  the  Mummies.  89 

fake  of  hunting  only,  and  he  killed  above  twenty 
within  two  days. 

The  Arabs  and  Egyptian  peafants  are  the  only 
people  that  don't  difturb  thefe  creatures,  which  are 
persecuted  in  all  other  parts  of  the  world.  Mr. 
Barton,  the  Englifn  Conful  at  Cairo,  told  me  that 
Counfellor  Carlefon,  during  his  ftay  in  Egypt,  had 
there  fhot  the  firfl  hare  that  had  been  feen  by  the 
Franks  in  that  country.  Before  that  time  it  was 
fcarcely  known  that  this  creature  was  to  be  found  in 
Egypt,  at  lead  not  to  the  Europeans,  and  yet  iefs 
to  the  inhabitants  of  Cairo,  v/ho  neither  admire  the 
meat,  nor  fuch  a  manner  of  hunting.  On  a  little 
iiland  near  this  place,  the  French  have  introduced 
hares  for  the  pleafure  of  hunting ;  and  I  was  in- 
formed, that  they  had  increafed  remarkably;  nor 
are  the  Rock  Goats  (Capra  Cervicapra  Linn.)  fcarcc 
in  this  part  of  the  country.  We  faw  their  tracks  in 
the  fine  fand  that  covered  the  ground  every  where, 
as  plainly  as  we  can  difcern  the  tracks  of  different 
beafls  in  the  new-fallen  fnow  in  Sweden.  If  we 
had  now  been  furniflied  with  a  good  long-barrel'd 
gun,  a  fwift  Arabian  horfe,  and  a  ftaunch  hound  or 
a  hawk,  we  might  have  diverted  ourfelyes  in  a  mari- 
ner truly  royal,  and  which  is  here  chiefly  praftifed 
by  the  Arabs  of  quality,  who  kill  the  Rock  Goats  with 
their  lances  whilil  running,  never  making  ufe  of  fire 
arms.  We  at  length  came  to  the  pit,  fituated  not 
above  a  cannon  fhot  from  the  village  of  Abufir,  on 
a  fandy  plain,  and  refembling  the  fox-holes  in 
Sweden.  We  defcended  with  much  danger  and  dif- 
ficulty on  a  rope  ladder  we  had  brought  along  with 
us  from  Cairo.  At  the  bottom  of  this  pit,  on  the 
lide  fronting  the  defart,  was  the  entrance  into  the 
famous  Sepulchres  of  the  Mummies.  This  lime-flone 
rock,  which  I  take  to  be  the  bafis  of  all  Egypt,  has 

with 


90      TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

with  an  infinite  deal  of  labour  been  hollowed  out, 
for  the  reception  of  the  bodies  and  aflies  of  their 
dead.  The  firft  objects  that  prefented  themfelves 
to  us,  were  an  amazing  number  of  conic  urns,  or 
earthen  veflels,  fifteen  inches  long,  and  nine  inches 
diameter  at  the  bottom.  They  are  made  of  a  very 
coarfe  clay,  burnt  in  the  manner  of  our  earthen 
ware,  but  not  glazed.  The  opening  is  at  the  larger 
end,  covered  with  a  lid  of  the  fame  workraanfliip,  a 
little  raifed  and  cemented  with  mortar.  In  fuch 
urns  as  have  been  well  preferved,  is  found  a  piece 
of  middling  coarfe  fleafy  linnen,  artfully  wound  in 
foldings,  and  kept  together  by  twine,  which  is 
pbhquely  wound  over  from  the  upper  to  the  lower 
part.  Within  this  linnen  is  preferved  a  quantity  of 
dark  grey  afhes,  mixed  fometimes  with  a  beak  or 
bone  of  a  bird.  Thefe  aflies,  covered  with  the  lin- 
nen, are  in  the  fame  conic  form  as  the  urn,  and  are 
commonly  found  packed  clofe  within  it.  There  is 
often  found  a  lump  of  aflies  without  an  urn,  which 
feems  to  have  been  deftroyed  by  time.  It  happens 
fometimes,  tho'  very  feldom,  that  they  find  in  the 
urns  a  bird,  in  which  the  feathers,  head,  legs  and 
feet,  and  even  the  colours,  are  fo  well  preferved, 
as  that  one  may  know  what  kind  of  a  bird  it  is. 
The  Crane,  call'dlbis,  and  Cranes  (Ardea  Grus)  are 
the  only  kind,  as  I  have  been  told,  that  could  be 
linown  again.  I  had  not  the  fortune  to  find  one  pre- 
ferved, tho'  I  opened  many  fcore  of  thefe  pots.  I 
have  been  told  by  thofe  who  have  found  them,  that 
their  heads  and  legs  have  been  laid  under  the 
wings,  and  thus  prepared  in  the  fame  manner  as 
^hofe  whofe  aflies  are  to  be  feen.  There  are  even 
found  embalmed  dogs,  laid  in  linnen.  I  have  feen 
one  in  the  polTefiion  of  the  French  Conful  at  Cairo, 
Mr.  Livencourt,  which  was  (q  well  preferved,  that  I 

^ould 


Sepulchres  of  the  Mummies,  91 

could  fee,  by  its  hair,  colour  and  appearance,  that 
the  fame  common  fort  of  dogs  is  yet  in  Egypt,  that 
hath  been  there  fome  thoufand  years  ago;  and  that 
none  of  the  many  varieties  we  have  in  Europe  have 
been  tranfplanted  here.  Dogs  had  then  a  better  lot 
in  Egypt  than  now,  as  they  are  accounted  unclean, 
unworthy  to  come  under  the  roof  of  a  Mahometan, 
killed  if  they  touch  his  cloaths,  and  forced  to  live  in 
the  open  air  on  the  legacies  left  them  by  the  chari- 
table people  and  alms,  or  feek  their  food  from  what 
fortune  throws  in  their  way.  I  have  been  in- 
formed, that  the  French  Jefuit  Sicara,  who  for  the 
fake  of  antiquities  travelled  with  much  attention 
fome  years  ago  in  Upper  Egypt,  had  there  found 
an  ox  embalmed  in  the  fame  manner,  which  he  fent 
over  to  Paris.  We  left  the  burial  place  of  irra- 
tional beads,  and.  proceeded  farther  to  that  of  man. 
This  is  not  done  without  fome  danger  of  iofmg  the 
way,  efpecially  if  one  ventures  too  far  in  the  paf- 
fages.  On  both  fides  of  this  palTage  are  niches,  in 
which  Mummies  in  their  coffins  are  preferved,  fland- 
ing  upright  on  their  feet.  The  niche  is  clofed  up 
with  a  wall,  fo  that  nothing  can  be  difcerned  on 
the  outfide. 

At  ten  o'clock  in  the  morning,  we  returned  from 
thefe  fubterranean  places,  which  afforded  me  lefs 
pleafure  than  the  open  plain  I  faw  around  them, 
where  I  fearched  for  natural  curiqfities.  The  infers 
I  found  in  the  fand  were  the  greatefl  advantage 
I  reaped  from  this  journey.  I  found  fome,  which 
i  am  perfuaded  no  natural  hi  had  ever  before  feen. 
Some  of  thofe  I  found  were  known  to  me.  Of 
thefe  I  colle6led  within  a  fhort  time  fiK  fpecics  of 
Libellulas  (Dragon  fly)  four  Cicad^e,  and  fome 
Grylli  (Locufts  and  Grallioppers).  Of  what  ufe  is  a 
wild  defart,  filled  with  burning  fandJ'  Can  any  living 

creature 


9^      TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

creature  fubfift  in  it?  Are  not  thefe  defarts  ufeleli: 
fpots  on  the  earth?  Such  are  the  queflions  of  a  per- 
fon  who  cafts  a  hafly  eye  on  thefe  wild  plains.  But 
if  he  remains  there  a  little  time,  and  is  not  fright^ 
ened  by  the  fcorching  heat  of  the  fun,  or  the  flying 
fand,  bends  himfelf  down  a  little,  and  looks  around 
him  with  attention,  he  will  in  this  dry  fandy  wilder- 
nefs  find  a  confirmation  of  that  truth,  that  the 
Creator  hath  not  made  any  thing  in  vain  :  apd  that 
no  place  is  to  be  found  on  our  globe,  which  is  not 
by  nature  deftined  for  fome  living  creature.  In  the 
afternoon  we  fet  out  on  our  return,  and  came  to  a 
little  fine  wood  of  the  Egyptian  Acacia  (Mimofi^ 
Nilotic.)  which  had  on  one  fide  a  large  field  planted 
with, Turkey  wheat.  I  here  faw  that  Acacia,  like 
moil  other  trees,  hath  its  gall  (Galla)  which  is  foft, 
white,  confifts  of  feveral  coats,  with  many  cells. 
This  was  now  full  of  caterpillars,  who  without; 
doubt  bring  forth  a  fmall  fly  (Cynips)  which  time 
would  not  permit  to  fee.  We  faw  the  herb  Purflaiq 
growing  in  the  moid  places,  where  the  water  that 
ran  from  the  fields  had  ftagnated.  We  came  to  a, 
fwampy  defart,  overgrowing  with  the  thorny  Reft 
Harrow,  and  covered  with  the  Ibis.  This  plant, 
which  occafions  fo  much  trouble  to  the  hufband- 
nien  in  Scania,  is  no  lefs  common  in  Egypt.  I  have 
feen  it  in  many  other  places  cover  whole  fields.  If 
the  Egyptians  were  defirous  of  tilling  all  the  land 
fit  for  hulbandry,  they  would  certainly  fp?ire  no 
pains;  to  deilroy  this  pernicious  weed ;  but  they  fplf 
low,  with  the  fame  religious  zeal  as  other  natiops., 
the  footfi: eps  of  their  anceflqrs :  the  fon  lets  the 
"water  run  on  thofe  fields  where  the  father  and 
grandfather  did  the  fame;  and  the  fields  which 
fhen  brought  forth  thorns  and  thifiles,  continue  to 
produce  the  fame  weeds  uu^er  the  children  and 

grand 


SEfULCHRE^   OF    THE   MtfMMIES.  93 

grand  children.  In  many  places  in  the  fcriptures, 
mention  is  made  of  Thorns,  but  none  knows  the 
plant  meant  by  that  word,  it  might  be  worth  while 
for  Writers  on  the  Scripture  plants,  to  think  of  this 
Reft  Harrow ;  which  not  only  grows  in  large  quan- 
tities all  over  Egypt,  but  even  in  the  bordering 
countries  of  Afia.  In  this  defart,  not  far  from  the 
Water,  a  Mahometan  hermit  had  his  dwelling  near  a 
tomb  erefted  over  one  of  his  faints.  Thefe  are  very 
common  inTurky^but  more  fo  in  Egypt.  We  continued 
our  voyage,  and  failed  all  the  night  the  fame  courfe 
we  had  taken  before.  I  had  leifure  to  defcribe  a  bird 
in  the  voyage,  which  my  Janiffary  had  ihot  in  a  wood 
of  Acacia,  near  the  fand  heath ;  it  is  by  the  Arabs 
.  called  Kervan,  and  highly  elteemed,  if  they  get  it 
alive  to  keep  in  a  cage.  It  comes  into  the  ordo  of 
Pic^,  and  is  of  the  genus  of  Corvus,  tho'  its 
beak  hath  no  fetse  at  the  bafls.  When  I  came 
home  on  the  19th,  I  met  with  two  European  tra- 
vellers of  condition,  who  had  lately  arrived  in 
Egypt;  one  of  them  was  a  Popifti  prelate  (Defiderio 
de  Cafa  Bafciana)  who  had  been  this  three  years 
guardian  of  the  Popifh  convent  in  Jerufalem,  and 
was  now  on  his  return  to  Italy :  a  man  of  merit, 
who  received  me  with  great  politenefs.  I  had  let- 
ters of  recommendation  to  him  from  the  Dutch 
Conful  Hochpied,  and  the  Jefuits  and  Francifcans  in 
Smyrna :  it  was  therefore  a  favourable  circum- 
flance  for  me  to  meet  him  on  his  journey.  He 
very  kindly  gave  me  other  letters  to  the  perfon 
who  fucceeded  him  in  his  oiSce.  The  other  was 
Commiffary  Lauder,  a  Scotchman.  The  Emperor 
of  Germany,  as  Great  Duke  of  Tufcany,  had  fent 
him  to  get  neceffary  intelligence  relating  to  the  Le- 
.Vant  and  India,  which  might  contribute  to  forward 
1        •  the 


^4      TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

the  trade,  which  he  had  eftabliftied  in  Trielle  and 
Leghorn. 

The  water  in  the  channel  of  Cairo  had  on  the 
24th  of  September  fo  evidently  decreafed,  that  it 
could  be  Teen  by  the  marks  near  the  houfes  on  both 
lides  of  the  channel,  to  be  half  a  foot  lower.  This 
remarkable  decreafe  is  occafioned  by  a  channel  about 
a  day's  journey  from  Cairo  being  opened,  which 
leads  the  water  on  a  fpacious  country  between  Cairo 
and  Alexandria.  The  weather  was  now  remarkably 
altered.  It  had  changed  from  being  burning  hot,  to 
moift  and  cold,  equal  to  what  we  have  in  Sweden  in 
the  months  of  September  and  Oftober,  accompanied 
with  a  flrong  wind  and  cloudy  iky,  but  without 
rain ;  for  this  is  a  very  uncommon  thing  at  Cairo, 
and  is  efteemed  a  wonder  if  fome  drops  fall  in  No- 
vember and  December ;  but  in  fome  years  it  rains 
in  Alexandria  for  feveral  whole  days  together.  The 
Turks  begin  now  to  drefs  in  furs.  It  is  greatly  con- 
ducive to  preferving  health,  to  change  cloaths  ac- 
cording to  the  different  feafons.  Flies  were  now 
feen  in  much  greater  numbers,  and  more  briik  than 
before.  This  was  without  doubt  owing  to  the  ex- 
cefTive  heat  in  the  fummer  months,  which  robbed 
them  of  a  great  part  of  their  vivacity,  and  forced 
them  to  keep  in  their  retreats,  where  they  had 
ihade  ;  but  cool  weather  gives  them  air  and  liberty 
to  try  their  fortunes  -every  where.  Migrating  birds 
of  different  kinds  arrived  at  this  time,  Cranes,  Peli- 
cans, Sand-pipers,  a  kind  of  Petti-chaps. 

On  the  29th,  I  went  to  fee  the  Well  of  Jofeph, 
which  is  one  of  the  curiofities  vifited  by  all  flrangers 
that  come  to  Cairo.  This  Well  is  dug  and  cut  in 
the  lime-flone  rock,  on  which  the  palace  of  Cairo 
is  built.     On  the  fide  of  its  opening  is  the  famous 

labyrinth. 


Sepulchres  of  The  Mummies.  pj 

labyrinth,  which  is  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile 
deep,  and  two  fathoms  wide,  being  fquare  :  it  clofes 
continually  from  the  upper  to  the  lower  part,  and 
at  length  anfwers  to  the  depth  of  the  Well :  it  is  fix 
feet  wide  in  the  narrowed  places,  but  in  fome  places 
wider.  In  feveral  parts  of  the  wall  on  the  right- 
hand,  are  cut  holes  through  which  the  light  comes 
in.  At  the  end  of  the  labyrinth  is  the  bottom  of 
the  Well,  out  of  which  water  is  taken  up,  by  the 
ufual  manner  of  drawing  up  water  in  Egypt,  and 
thence  led  to  a  large  Mofque,  and  a  large  Bagnio 
at  the  Balliaw's  palace.  The  water  is  brought  to  the 
Well  from  another  refervoir  which  lies  deeper, 
from  whence  the  water  is  drawn  by  oxen.  To  the 
lowed  of  thefe  refervoirs,  the  water  is  brought  by 
aqu£edu£l:s  from  the  Nile,  near  Old  Cairo.  This  is 
the  remains  of  a  work  which  teflifies  the  magnifi- 
cence of  the  ancient  Sovereigns  of  Egypt.  The 
inconceivable  labour  and  incredible  coil  which  have 
been  bellowed  on  this  labyrinth,  certainly  merit  the 
attention  of  travellers.  The  rock  is  of  the  fame 
kind  with  that  on  which  the  Egyptian  Pyramids  are 
built,  viz.  a  whitiih  lime-flone,  filled  with  different 
kinds  of  iliells  and  fea  infects,  entire  and  not  changed. 
The  greatefl  part  of  the  palace,  formerly  in  a  good 
flate  of  defence,  is  now  defiroyed ;  fome  towers 
only  being  left,  of  which  one  hath  been  entirely 
preferved,  but  it  is  without  a  garrifon  or  ammuni- 
tion ;  the  whole  of  it  built  of  hewn  Hone,  of  the 
kind  I  have  already  mentioned.  We  beheld  at  lall  the 
ruined  building,  which  was  formerly  the  palace  of 
the  Sarraeen  Sultans.  Here  we  faw  magnificent 
Granite  columns,  above  two  fathoms  or  twelve  feet 
in  length,  of  one  piece,  with  well  wrought  capitals 
and  handfome  foliages,  cut  in  Hone,  and  fome  ob- 
fcarc  remains  of  painting  in  water  colours,  hand- 
fome 


96      TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

fome  enough  for  the  time  in  which  they  were  exe- 
cuted ;  fome  palm  boughs  were  the  mofi:  vifible. 
The  roof  and  columns  of  a  very  large  hall  were  yet 
entire,  in  which  was  alfo  to  be  feen  a  number  of 
Arabian  infcriptions,  with  Coptic  letters  round  the 
cornifh  of  the  roof.  From  the  ruins  of  this  palace, 
almoft  the  whole  city  of  Cairo  may  be  feen.  As  far 
as  I  can  judge,  I  fuppofe  Cairo  to  be  twenty-four 
miles  in  circumference.  The  view  is  far  from  being 
agreeable:  ill-built  houfes  with  flat  roofs,  grey, 
dully  and  dirty  walls,  with  a  number  of  minarets  of 
Mofques  (landing  up  amongft  them,  cannot,  do  not, 
make  it  more  agreeable. 

The  1 2th,  the  verdure  began  to  appear  in  Egypt, 
the  greatefl  part  of  the  water  having  drained  from 
the  fields.  At  this  time  the  country  appeared  in  its 
full  beauty,  wherefore  I  went  to  Old  Cairo,  to  havci 
ai^  opportunity  of  feeing  what  vegetables  this  fea-- 
fon  could  afford  worthy  of  obfervation.  Bladder 
Ketmia  or  Venetian  Mallow,  is  a  plant  eaten  in  Egypt, 
contrary  to  the  cuflom  of  other  countries.  It  was 
now  in  full  growth,  and  had  already  finiflied  its  flow- 
ering, when  the  country  people  took  it  up,  tied  it  in 
fmall  bundles,  and  carried  it  to  the  city  for  fale. 

The  Turks,  being  fond  of  war,  are  not  ignorant 
of  military  exercifes.  In  Cairo  they  order  their 
flaves,  who  are  all  young  Chriilians,  moftly  bought 
from  Circaflia  and  Georgia,  to  be  inflru6led  in  thofe 
exercifes  to  which  they  are  moft  accuflomed,  which 
confifl  in  riding  well,  firing  on  foot,  but  moflly  on 
horfeback.  The  latter  is  not  unworthy  of  atten- 
tion. They  hold  their  gun  in  one  hand  clofe  to  the 
thigh,  and  in  the  other  they  have  the  bridle  and  a 
match  :  they  touch  the  fufe  when  the  horfe  is  in  full 
fpeed,  and  if  they  are  well  trained,  hit  the  mark, 
which  is  ajar  fetup  at  a  certain  diltance.  The  per- 

fon 


T  O      C  A  I  R  d.  9:? 

foil  wtio  beats  down  the  jar,  receives  a  reward  from 
the  officer  who  commands  the  troop.  Their  third 
axercife  is  to  throw  a  lance.  Inllead  of  lances,  whilft 
they  are  learning,  they  ufe  branches  of  palm-tree, 
with  which  they  ride  after  one  another  in  full  gal- 
lop. I  faw  all  their  revolutions  as  I  was  riding  by 
the  place  of  exercife,  between  Old  and  New  Cairo, 
where  they  affemble  three  days  in  the  week,  undetr 
the  infpection  of  an  officer  of  diftinflion. 

I  SPENT  the  T^th,  on  an  iiland  direftly  oppofite 
Old  Cairo.  I  had  here  an  opportunity  of  feeing  the 
Reed  of  the  Nile,  of  which  frequent  mention  is  made 
in  the  fcriptiires.  There  are  two  forts  of  Reed 
growing  near  the  Nile :  one  of  them  has  fcarce  any 
branches,  but  numerous  leaves,  which  are  narrow, 
fmooth,  channeled  on  the  upper  furface,  and  the 
plant  is  about  eleven  feet  high.  The  Egyptians 
make  ropes  of  the  leaves*  They  lay  them  in  water 
like  hemp,  and  then  make  good  and  ftrong  cables 
of  them,  which  with  the  bark  (Integumxentum)  of 
the  Date  tree,  are  almofl  the  only  cable  ufed  in  the 
Nile.  They  make  floats  of  this  Reed,  which  they 
ufe  when  they  fifli  with  nets.  The  other  fort  is  of 
great  confequence.  It  is  a  fmail  Reed,  about  two  or 
three  feet  high,  full  branched,  with  fliort,  fharp, 
lancet-like  leaves :  the  roots,  which  are  as  thick  as 
the  flem.  Creep  and  mat  themfelves  together  to  a 
confiderable  di  fiance.  This  plant  feems  ufelefs  in 
ordinary  hfe ;  but  to  this  is  the  very  foil  of  Egypt 
owing,  for  the  matted  roots  have  flopped  the  earth 
which  floated  in  the  waters,  and  formed  out  of  the 
fea  a  country  that  is  habitable.  Before  I  left  this 
place,  I  obferved  attentively  the  fliore  of  the  Nile. 
It  chiefly  confifts  of  fand,  which  is  compofed  of  a 
whitifh   Quartz,  or  Cridalline  particles,  united  to 

H  feme 


98      TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST, 

fome  oblong  lamlnse  of  black  Mica,  and  a  very 
fmall  proportion  of  ruft-coloured  Spar. 

During  my  (lay  in  Old  Cairo,  I  ventured  to  do 
a  thing,  wliich  I  believe  very  few  travellers  before 
me  have  done;  neither  would  I  advife  any  one  to 
follow  my  example,  for  it  might  not  perhaps  be 
attended  with  equal  good  fortune.  It  was  my 
going  on  the  15th,  into  a  Turkifh  Mofque.  Accord- 
ing to  the  laws  of  Turky,  a  Chriflian,  who  goes 
in  one  of  their  places  of  worfhip,  mufl  either 
turn  Mahometan,  or  be  burnt  ahve.  Money  will 
fcarcely  obtain  a  mitigation  of  the  law  in  this  cafe, 
tho'  it  helps  in  all  other  cafes,  even  in  the  mofl: 
notorious  offences,  except  when  any  perfon  hath 
been  too  free  with  their  women ;  for  this  offence  is 
as  heinous  in  their  eyes,  as  feeing  their  Mofques. 
The  Mofque  in  which  I  went,  is  jufl  befide  the 
mark-hdufe  of  the  Nile :  I  chofe  a  time  when  none 
of  the  Turks  who  live  there  were  prefent ;  and  en- 
tered it,  accompanied  by  a  French  interpreter,  Mr. 
le  Grand,  and  a  good  honefl  JanifTary,  who  was 
devoted  to  me,  after  I  had  given  the  door-keeper  a 
handfome  fee.  Such  things  may  have  good  and  bad 
confequences,  therefore  a  traveller  fhould  never  un- 
dertake them,  without  great  circumfpeftion;  and 
the  more,  as  all  the  advantage  he  derives  from  his 
curiofity  is,  that  he  may  fay  he  has  feen  a  place  of 
this  kind;  for  there  is  indeed  nothing  remarkable  in 
them.  The  Mofques  are  almofl  all  built  in  the 
fame  manner,  confifling  of  four  galleries,  which 
form  an  open  fquare  i  but  the  galleries  are  covered 
and  fupported  by  columns.  If  thefe  are  of  marble, 
porphyry,  or  granite,  in  thefe  confifls  the  greatefl 
beauty  of  the  Mofque.  In  the  middle  of  that  fide 
which  points  towards  Mecca,  is  an  oblong  niche  cut 
in  the  wall,  in  which  the  Coran  Ues,  and  d'lix^lj  op- 

pofite 


T  d     C  A  I  k  0*  99 

poCitt  to  it,  is  a  fmall  gallery  between  two  columns, 
pretty  high  from  the  ground;  from  which  theirScheiks 
orPriefts  read  to  the  people  fome  part  of  the  Coran, 
or  fomething  elfe  which  may  excite  them  to  obferve 
their  doftrine,  and  live  accordingly.  In  fome  of  the 
other  galleries  are  the  fleps  that  lead  to  the  minaret 
or  fleeple,  from  which  the  hours  of  prayer  are  pro* 
claimed  fix  times  a  day,  viz.  at  fun-rife,  at  noon* 
three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  at  fun-fet,  half  an 
hour  after  feven  in  the  evening,  and  at  midnight. 
If  the  minaret  is  well  built,  it  makes  the  outward 
appearance  of  the  Mofque  agreeable,  and  contri- 
butes a  little  to  the  beauty  of  the  city,  if  fuch  a 
thing  is  to  be  found  amongfl  a  people  who  defpife 
archite£lure,  and  glory  more  in  deflroying  than 
erecting.  Their  fteeples  are  cylindrical,  with  one 
or  more  balconies,  and  four  doors,  one  from  each 
quarter  of  the  world.  In  Old  Cairo  is  a  grotto 
much  efleemed  by  the  Chriftians,  as  Chrifl  and  his 
mother  were  concealed  in  it  when  they  fled  to 
Egypt.  Over  this  the  Coptites  have  built  a  church, 
they  keep  in  tolerable  repair,  and  ufe  the  grotto 
for  a  chapel. 

Near  Mataree  is  a  well  of  fweet  water;  all  the 
others  are  fait.  Here  is  likewife  an  obelii]<:,  which 
is  the  handfomefl  in  Egypt.  I  never  believed  na- 
tural hiftory  was  fo  ufeful  in  the  fludy  of  antiqui- 
ties, as  I  experienced  on  the  25  th.  A  perfon  v/ho 
is  acquainted  with  birds^  may  fee  at  firfl  fight  of 
what  kind  thofe  are,  which  are  carved  on  it.  I 
could  know  a  Strix  (Owl)  which  Hood  upperraofl 
on  the  top  of  the  obeliik  ;  a  Scolopax  (Snipe)  much 
like  the  pluvialis,  an  Anas  (Duck)  and,  what  I 
think  more  remarkable,  could  plainly  difcern  the 
Ardea  Ibis  alba  in  the  pofition  it  is  yet  to  be  feen  in  all 

H  2  the 


loo      TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

the  fields  of  Egypt,  carrying  its  head  high  and 
tail  low. 

The  entrenchments  of  Selim's  camp,  who  took 
Egypt  from  the  Mahometans,  were  yet  plainly  to 
be  feen.  They  were  built  of  brick,  dried  in  the 
fun,  made  of  clay  and  ilraw,  in  the  manner  the 
Ifraelites  were  obliged  to  make  them  during  their 
flavery  in  Egypt,  in  the  time  of  Pharaoh  j  of  thefe 
bricks,  the  remains  are  to  be  feen  to  this  day  in  a 
Pyramid  at  Sacchara,  which  was  built  of  them. 

The  Egyptian  peafant  now  continues  plowing  and 
fowing  the  field,  which  he  has  begun  with  the  month. 
Their  utenfils  are  of  the  mofl  fimple  kind,  but  they 
are  fuiEcient  for  tilling  the  lighteft  ground  under 
the  fun.  Their  principal  inftrument  is  a  plow, 
which  confifls  of  a  long  handle,  two  uprights  to 
which  the  reins  are  faflened,  with  a  fmall  ill-made 
fliare.  They  ufe  oxen  for  their  works  of  hufbandry ; 
their  inftruments  are  indifferent,  when  they  cafl  up 
clods  too  large  to  be  left  entire,  they  break  them 
with  a  kind  of  hoe,  which  they  alfo  ufe  in  pre- 
paring the  beds  in  a  garden,  and  to  clean  the  fmall 
partitions  in  the  fields.  Before  I  left  Mataree,  I 
defired  to  fee  the  Sycamore,  which,  as  they  relate, 
afforded  our  Saviour  fliade  when  he  fied  into  Egypt. 
I  regarded  this  tree  as  a  lover  of  nature.  It  is  only 
four  fathoms  thick,  fo  that  it  is  not  fo  large  as  others 
I  have  feen  in  Egypt.  It  was  a  little  hurt  on  the 
Eaflern  fide,  and  lefs  in  that  part.  By  comparing 
it  with  young  trees  of  this  kind,  whofe  age  I  knew, 
1  imagine  this,  and  the  other  trees  of  its  fize,  to  be 
about  three  hundred  years  old ;  an  age  that  will  not 
warrant  us  in  regarding  it  as  a  relique. 

The  Janilfaries  gate  is  on  the  left  hand  of  the 
entrance  to  the  palace  of  Cairo,  vdiere  they  have  a 
guard  room  for  officers  and  common  foldiers.    In 

the 


TO      C  A  I  R  O.  loi 

the  afternoon  of  the  2  6th,  I  went  thither  to  fee  an 
edifice,  which  was  ere£ted  by  the  ufurping  go- 
vernor, to  tranfmit  his  name  to  pofterity.  It  con- 
fided of  a  handfome  hall  for  the  Janiflary  Aga, 
clofing  at  the  top  in  a  dome,  and  had  the  walls 
adorned  with  feftoons,  but  the  roof  was  fupported 
by  fome  fine  marble  columns  from  Italy.  On  each 
fide  of  the  hall  was  a  gallery,  with  a  flat  roof  and 
painted  walls. 

We  mufl  not  expect  to  find  any  traces  in  the 
Turkilh  architecture,  of  the  magnificence  which 
is  yet  vifible  in  that  of  the  ancient  Egyptians, 
Grecians,  and  Saracens.  A  Turk  underflands 
not  how  to  lay  a  ftone  properly,  much  lefs  how  to 
raife  a  wall.  The  Armenians  are  their  architects, 
who,  by  their  natural  inclination  for  the  art,  ajffifted 
by  what  they  have  feen  on  their  travels  in  the  Eaft, 
build  as  well  as  can  be  expefted  from  people  who 
owe  all  their  knowledge  in  a  manner  to  nature.  If 
thefe  people  were  to  travel  to  Europe,  and  there 
cultivate  their  parts,  we  might  fee  in  the  Eail, 
mailers  in  every  ufeful  fcience,  who  might  proba- 
bly vie  with  the  ancients,  and  furpafs  many  of  the 
moderns.  In  the  entrance  to  this  place,  are  to  be 
feen  a  number  of  various  kinds  of  arms,  ufed  in  the 
holy  wars ;  being  the  remains  of  trophies  which  the 
Saracens  and  Turks  took  from  the  Chriflian  forces 
after  their  viftories:  fuch  as  helmets,  harnelfes,  battle 
axes,  pikes,  partizans,  and  fome  bows,  one  of  v/hich 
was  of  a  prodigious  fize.  Thefe  were  the  dellruftive 
inftruments  of  thofe  times,  before  an  unlucky  che- 
mical invention  taught  men  a  Ihorter  way  to  fend 
one  another  to  the  other  world.  The  Janiifary 
Aga,  the  Kihaja,  who  fliould  direft  the  police,  and 
a  Tchiauz,  are  the  officers  that  are  obliged  to  live 
conftantly  in  their  guard-rojm,  which  I  faw.     A 

H  3  number 


102    TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST, 

number  of  Capigi,  or  fubalterns,  are  conftantly  in 
their  ftations.  There  is  no  fixed  number  of  Janif- 
faries ;  they  come  and  go  as  they  think  proper, 
The  foldiers  think  therafelves  too  good  to  be  obliged 
to  keep  a  ftri^t  guard.  They  find  their  account 
better  by  keeping  in  the  city,  where  they  have  an, 
opportunity  of  robbing  and  abufing  whom  they 
pleafe.  This  is  the  employment  of  thofe  who 
ought  to  proteft  people  from  violence  and  injuflice. 

On  the  27  th,  I  faw  black  flaves  fold  in  the  Aurel 
in  Cairo;  they  were  brought  from  Abyifinia,  Ethi- 
opia and  Dongala.  The  greateft  part  were  women, 
almoft,  naked,  having  only  their  private  parts  con-- 
cealed :  they  had  their  hair  plaited  in  fmall  locks, 
anointed  with  fome  kind  of  greafe,  and  adorned  with 
corals  and  coral  beads,  which  hang  in  the  nofe  and 
e^rs.     Ornaments  are  neceffary  to  all  nations. 

On  the  6ih.  of  December,  advice  came  to  Cairoi 
that  the  German  Emperor's  CommiiTary,  Mr.  Lauder, 
]iad  returned  to  Egypt,  which  he  had  left  two  months 
before  to  travel  to  Smyrna.  In  the  Archipelago 
he  met  with  three  of  the  Emperor's  iliips  of  war, 
bound  for  Alexandria,  and  with  them  returned, 
The  fame  day  we  heard  that  Captain  Jacobfon,  of 
Stockholm,  had  arrived  at  Alexandria  from  Leg- 
horn. He  had  failed  from  Alexandria;  two  months 
before,  and  now  returned  with  27,000- Spanifli 
dollars,  on  account  of  the  Jews  in  Leghorn,  befides 
merchandize. 

Some  days  after  we  perceived  that  Ifmael  EfFendij 
who  commanded  the  caflle  of  Alexandria,  was  de- 
termined to  raife  the  mob  againft  the  Emperor's 
three  fliips  of  war.  A  ftrange  flag,  and  efpecially  a 
black  bird  (the  Imperial  Eagle)  in  it,  was  fufiScient 
to  give  the  Turks  a  fufpicion.  They  had  fent  tq 
Cairo  frqm  Alexandria,  to  give  notice  to  the  Re- 
gency 


T  O      C  A  I  R  O.  103 

gency  of  their  intention,  and  at  the  fame  time  raife 
this  city;  but  received  a  cold  reception  from  the 
Pacha  and  Janiffary  Aga,  who  knew  on  what  account 
the  (hips  were  come. 

The  firfl:  of  January  1751,  Mr.  le  Grand  took  of 
me  the  credentials  by  which  I  was  empowered  to  aft 
as  Conful  in  Egypt.  I  knew  not  what  he  intended 
to  do  with  them,  but  believed  he  would,  as  he  ought, 
deliver  them  to  the  Regency.  I  was  informed  to 
day  by  the  Engliih  Conful  that  he  had  delivered  the 
power  and  letters  with  it  to  the  Jews,  who  rent  the 
cuftoms  in  Cairo ;  and  defired  them  to  do  what  they 
pleafed,  as  this  matter  concerned  a  foreign  nation, 
and  he  would  not  give  himfelf  any  trouble  about  it. 

The  Mecca  Caravan  made  its  entry  this  day, 
after  it  had  been  out  fmce  the  i  oth  of  September 
of  the  lafl:  year.  Many  of  the  people  had  periflied 
on  the  road ;  many  by  the  rainy,  cold,  and  bad 
weather,  which  they  could  not  bear ;  fome  were 
killed  by  the  Arabians,  with  whom  the  Caravan  is 
obliged  to  fight  every  journey,  when  they  come  to 
plunder.  It  fliould  feem  that  100,000  fouls  coming 
into  a  city  on  one  day,  would  occafion  a  great  change 
in  the  price  of  provifions;  and  I  doubt  whether 
there  is  a  city  in  Europe,  capable  of  receiving  at 
once  fo  large  a  number  of  guefts  without  feeling 
it ;  but  in  Cairo  no  want  of  viftuals  was  known,  on 
account  of  this  remarkable  encreafe  of  inhabitants. 
This  is  not  only  a  proof  of  a  rich  country,  but  like- 
wife  of  a  fparing  people,  who  have  not  yet  forgot 
that  nature  is  content  with  a  little.  They  loft  the 
Bey  of  the  Caravan  and  480  camels  on  the  road. 
It  muft  have  been  a  tedious  journey,  when  camels 
could  not  ftand  it.  One  of  the  grandees  of  Cairo, 
who  had  been  two  years  in  Mecca,  returned,  and 
was  received  with  particular  honour.    All  thofe 

H  4  who 


104      TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

who  had  made  this  holy  journey,  had  the  firft  flory 
of  their  houfes  painted,  and  hung  over  their  doors  the 
luitre-fliaped  Aloe,  which  grows  in  large  quantities 
in  the  gardens  of  Cairo,  to  teflify  their  hope  by  this; 
Gver-green.  This  was  both  a  joyful  and  forrowful 
day.  Thofe  who  could  embrace  their  relations  and 
friends,  after  this  dangerous,  and  by  them  greatly- 
efteemed  journey,  had  reafon  to  fmg  joyful  tunes, 
^nd  meet  them  with  harps  and  drums ;  but  they 
who  had  lofl  their  friends,  filled  all  the  ftreets; 
with  the  lamentations  and  cries  of  hired  mourn- 
ers. This  is  a  trade  praflifed  of  old,  and  retained 
to  this  day  in  Egypt,  with  another  quite  the 
contrary,  and  both  to  be  bought.  When  joy  and 
forrow  are  to  be  fold,  nothing  will  be  found  in  the 
world  which  cannot  be  accorapliflied  with  mpney. 

Cairo  celebrates  every  year  on  a  certain  day, 
\iz.  the  28th  of  January,  the  birth-day  of  Mahomet, 
in  a  more  particular  manner  than  any  of  thofe  places 
who  efteem  the  name  and  memory  of  the  founder 
of  this  Eaftern  religion.  I  may  fay,  that  all  who, 
could  ftir  were  this  day  in  motion  at  Cairo,  all  of 
the  name  of  Mufelmen  celebrated  the  day,  and  peo^ 
pie  of  other  denominations  went  to  be  witneffes  of 
their  joy.  The  large  handfqme  fquare  Lefbikie, 
was  the  centre  of  the  feflival ;  it  is  not  far  from  the 
Turks  flreet,  and  exactly  oppofite  one  inhabited 
chiefly  by  Coptites,  on  the  left  hand  of  the  road 
that  leads  to  Bulac.  This  place,  which  fome  weeks 
ago  ftood  under  water,  in  the  evening  was  bright 
with  illuminations.  A  city  mull  poflefs  a  Nile  be- 
fore it  can  have,  in  one  and  the  fame  place,  at  one 
ti^ne  a  pleafant  navigable  river,  at  another  a  field 
covered  with  verdant  plants,  and  then  blaze  with 
different  kuids  of  bonfires.    Fellivals  of  this  kind 

are 


T  O      C  A  I  R  O.  105 

are  to  the  women  of  Cairo,  as  holidays  are  to 
fchool-boys.  The  latter  leap  for  joy,  when  they 
get  out  of  the  fight  of  a  fevere  fchool-mafter,  and 
have  an  hour  to  indulge  the  inclinations  of  child- 
hood. This  muil  likewife  be  the  cafe  with  the 
former  when  they  are  allowed  a  day,  on  which  they 
get  an  opportunity  of  enjoying  thofe  pleafures  to 
which  their  fex,  oyer  the  whole  world,  are  natu- 
turally  inclined,  and  mofl  when  they  are  kept  un- 
der conftraint.  It  is  however  a  misfortune  for  this 
fex  in  Egypt,  that  the  feftival  cannot  procure  them 
all  the  liberty  to  be  wiilied  for,  The  eunuchs,  their 
fworn  enemies,  follow  them  conftantly;  but  their 
fchemes  are  fpoiled  if  they  can't  outwit  thefe  wretches. 
The  reafon  why  this  day  is  more  celebrated  here 
than  in  other  places,  is,  becaufe  the  eminent  Abu- 
bekir's  race  live  here^  and  can  prove  themfelves  de-^ 
fcended  in  a  direct  line  from  the  father-in4aw  of 
Mahomet.  Of  this  family  was  in  my  time  remain- 
ing a  Scheck,  the  mofl  refpefled  of  any  in  Egypt, 
who  had  once  a  brother  (dead  fome  time  before); 
and  on  their  children,  which  were  numerous  and 
always  marry  one  with  another,  depends  this  family 
fo  much  refpefted  in  Cairo,  which,  according  to  ap^ 
pearance,  is  not  likely  to  be  extinft  for  many  years. 
A  proof  of  the  regard  the  people  in  Cairo  have  for 
the  head  of  this  family,  was  to  be  feen  this  day, 
when  he  received  the  vifits  of  the  principal  men  in 
the  Regency,  the  Pacha  excepted,  who  came  to  his 
houfe,  and  by  kiffing  his  hand,  Ihewed  the  great 
efleem  they  have  for  him.  Some  time  after  they 
celebrated  another  feftival,  to  the  memory  of  two 
fons  of  prophets ;  but  in  another  manner,  and  with- 
out illuminations  on  the  above-mentioned  place. 
The  houfes  in  the  largeft  flreets  were  adorned  with 

hangings, 


f66      TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

hangings,  and  lamps  put  up  before  thofe  of  the 
principal  perfons. 

On  the  third  of  February  it  rained  in  Cairo» 
which  is  worth  remarking,  as  it  happens  fo  feldom. 
The  weather  varied  at  this  time  in  Egypt,  as  it 
does  with  us  in  April,  but  differed  in  regard  to  the 
climate. 

The  2  2d  it  was  quite  cold  with  a  ftrong  North 
wind :  all  the  trees  lofe  their  leaves  about  this 
time,  and  put  forth  new.  Salix  Calaf,  Sycomorus, 
Mimofa,  had  got  young  leaves,  and  the  firll 
bloffomed  on  bare  boughs,  which  about  this  time 
were  brought  to  the  apothecaries,  who  diflil  from 
them  the  Calaf  water,  fo  famous  and  fo  much  ufed 
in  Egypt. 

The  yth  of  March  happened  a  revolt  in  Cairo, 
but  it  had  not  the  defired  effect.  Some  of  the 
Beys,  who  were  baniflied  on  the  ufurpation  of  the 
reigning  Abraham  Kiahajas  to  the  fupreme  power, 
had  found  means  to  fteal  into  the  city,  with  an 
intent  to  make  an  affault  on  their  enemy  j  but 
they  had  the  misfortune  to  be  difcovered.  The 
Governor  fent  men  to  furround  the  houfe,  in 
which  they  were  concealed.  Their  faithful  hoft, 
and  three  of  the  confpirators,  loft  their  heads  in  a 
moment ;  fire  was  put  to  the  houfe,  and  all,  even 
the  women,  who  were  in  it,  were  burnt  alive. 
The  other  Beys  and  their  accomplices  faved  them^ 
felves  by  flight,  and  the  Governor  avoided  this 
blow,  which  ferved  only  to  ftrengthen  him  in  his 
power.  The  riot  lafted  no  longer  than  from  four 
to  feven  o'clock  in  the  afternoon.  The  Turks  dif-' 
patch  their  affairs  quickly,  well  or  ill. 

I  LEFT  Cairo  on  the  loth  of  March,  jufl:  as  the 
Palms  were  ripe  for  copulation  j  all  the  bloffoms 

were 


TO     CAIRO.  107 

were  now  in  their  beauty,  the  trees  iliot  forth 
new  leaves,  and  wheat  and  barley  were  now  in 
ear ;  after  I  had  been  there  for  nine  months, 
and  had  fulHcient  opportunities  of  knowing  Egypt, 
a.  country  without  an  equal,  and  Cairo,  a  city 
which  is  beil  deferibed  by  the  title  its  Lord  the 
Turkifh  Emperor  gives  it,  when  he  calls  it  fm- 
gular  in  its  kind* 


T  O 


joS      TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 


TO      DAMIATA. 


THE  13  th  of  March  in  the  forenoon,  we  paffed 
by  Maufora,  a  place  which  hath  got  an  im- 
mortal name  by  the  unlucky  pilgrimage  of  the 
French  King,  Louis  the  Holy,  to  Egypt.  It  is  now 
a  little  town,  or  rather  a  large  village,  about  half 
way  between  Damiata  and  Cairo,  well  diftinguiflied 
from  the  other  villages,  by  fix  Mofques,  and  its 
fmall  houfes,  which  however  are  tolerable  hand- 
fome  and  built  of  flone ;  the  others  having  mere 
clay  huts,  and  fome  are  without  a  Mofque.  We 
came  to  Damiata  after  a  voyage  of  three  days  on 
the  Nile. 

The  i<5th  early,  I  went  out  to  botanize  round 
the  town,  but  this  neighbourhood  affords  nothing 
different  from  the  other  parts  of  Egypt.  Cicho- 
rium  fpinofum*,  Centaurea  calcitrapoides^,  Carduus 
fyriacus",  Tragopogun  picroides^  Medicago  polymor* 
pha%  Trifolium  refupinatum*",  Scorpiurus  fulcata% 
Lathyrus  hifpanicus  *',  Ranunculus  fceleratusS  Eu- 
phorbia peplus*^,  Poa  annual  Hordeum  murinum™, 
Adiantum  capillus",  Trifolium  procumbens",  Poa 
bulbofa  vivip.P,  Apium  graveolens^  Salix  asgyptiaca^ 
Chenopodium  viride^  Much  larger  quantities  of 
dew  fall  about  this  time  in  this  part  of  Egypt, 
which  is  nearell  the  fea,  than  in  others  more  dif- 

^ Thorny  fuccory.  ''Knapweed.  '^ Syrian  thiftle.  'i  Goatsbeard, 
^  Snail  trefoil.  ^  Kefupinaced  trefoil,  s  Caterpillars.  ''  Spanifh 
chichling  vetch,  ^Crowfoot.  ''Spurge.  ^Annual  poa.  ""Barley, 
"^ Maidenhair.  °  Procumbent  trefoil.  PBulbofepoa.  ^Stinking 
parfley,  '  ^Egyptian  willow.  '  Goofefoot, 

tanr, 


TO     D  A  M  I  AT  A.  109 

tant,  by  which  the  fields  are  enriched,  even  where 
the  Nile  cannot  overflow.  The  rain  hkewife  con- 
tributes to  it,  faUing  here  frequently  during  the 
winter  and  fpring  months,  which  fcarcely  even  hap- 
pens at  Cairo.  The  Palm  began  now  to  open  its 
male  flowers,  which  however  is  not  general  before 
the  enfuing  month.  In  Damiata,  which  affords  ati 
incredible  quantity  of  flax,  they  manufafture  a 
kind  of  handfome  napkins  with  white,  blue,  red, 
yellow^  and  more  forts  of  flripes,  of  which  they  fell 
large  quantities  to  Turkey.  I  faw  this  manufacture, 
which  is  efl.abliflied  in  a  little  quarter  feparate  from 
the  town.  On  my  return  to  my  lodgings,  I  went 
into  a  houfe  where  they  dreflfed  Rice,  the  chief  com- 
modity and  riches  of  Damiata.  It  is  pounded  by 
hollow  iron  peftles,  of  a  cylindric  form,  an  inch  in 
diameter,  lifted  up  by  a  wheel  worked  by  oxen. 
A  perfon  fitting  between  the  two  peflles,  puflies 
forward  the  rice  when  the  peflles  are  rifing.  Ano« 
ther  fifts,  winnows,  and  lays  it  under  the  peflles.  In 
this  manner  they  continue  working  it,  until  it  is  en* 
tirely  free  from  chaiF  and  huflcs.  When  it  is  clean 
they  add  a  30th  part  of  fait,  and  pound  them  to- 
gether, by  which  the  rice  becomes  white,  which  be- 
fore was  grey.  After  this  fining,  it  is  paflfed  through 
a  fine  fieve,  to  part  the  fait  from  the  rice,  and  then 
it  is  ready  for  fale.  Damiata  fells  every  year  60,000 
facks  of  rice,  each  fack  of  feventy-five  oke,  of  which 
the  greatefl;  part  goes  to  Turkey,  and  fome  to  Leg- 
horn, Marfeilles,  and  Venice.  Rice  is  one  of  the 
chief  produftions  of  Egypt,  and  of  courfe  therein 
confifls  in  a  great  meafure  the  riches  of  the  inhabi- 
tants ;  it  grows  only  in  the  rich  fields  round  Da- 
miata and  Rofetta,  which  are  eafily  watered  by  the 
Nile.  The  Egyptians  undoubtedly  learned  the 
cultivation  of  rice  under  the  reign  of  the  Califs,  at 

which 


116      TRAVELS  TO  THKEAST. 

which  time  many  ufeful  plants  were  brought  ovef 
the  Red  fea  to  Eg)^pt,  which  now  grow  fponta- 
neoufly  there,  and  enrich  the  country.  The  Re- 
gency at  this  time  would  not  give  themfelves  the 
trouble  of  introducing  any  thing  of  the  kind,  and 
perhaps  would  not  even  cultivate  what  they  already 
have,  were  it  not  for  their  flaves,  the  ancient  inha- 
bitants of  Egypt,  who  are  obliged  to  practice  what 
their  forefathers  taught  them,  without  reaping  the 
lead  advantage  from  the  fweat  of  their  brows,  being 
obliged  to  offer  every  thing  to  the  luxury  of  their 
tyrants. 

On  the  19  th  in  the  afternoon,  I  failed  on  the 
Nile,  to  view  the  fituation  and  appearance  of  the 
town.  Dam.iata  is  a  little  town,  built  on  the  Ihore 
of  the  Nile  in  the  form  of  a  half  moon,  fituated  on 
the  right  hand  in  coming  from  Cairo.  The  Nile 
makes  a  little  turning  to  the  Eaft,  before  it  falls  in 
the  fea.  This  reach,  which  is  fomething  broader 
than  the  river  in  other  places,  ftretches  beyond  the 
town,  and  ferves  for  its  harbour,  which  is  unfit  to 
receive  the  veiTels  of  the  town,  the  mufches  from 
Cairo,  chembecks  from  Cyprus,  Syria,  &c.  fcheo- 
meone  from  Alexandria,  and  other  fmall  craft  of 
this  kind.  The  European  veffels  mull  anchor  in 
the  open  road,  without  the  mouth  of  the  Nile, 
where  they  are  no  longer  fafe  than  whilft  the  wea- 
ther favours  them.  In  bad  weather  they  have  no 
other  chance  but  flipping  their  cables  and  running 
to  fea,  or  ilretching  for  the  harbour  of  Cyprus. 
On  this  account  Damiata  is  a  miferable  place,  and 
•frequented  by  few  European  veffels ;  yet  forae 
Frenchmen,  who  from  their  youth  have  been  ufed 
to  the  road,  and  are  not  frightened  by  thefe  diffi- 
culties, but  for  the  fake  of  the  profit  they  get  by 
the  freight  of  the*  merchants  goods,  run  all  hazard. 

The 


TO      D  A  M  I  A  T  A.  iii 

The  houfes  near  the  fhore  are  tolerably  well  built 
after  the  Egyptian  manner,  but  thofe  in  the  town 
are  the  moft  miferable  huts  one  can  any  where  fee* 
I  counted  about  twelve  Mofques.  1  afterwards  failed 
to  the  other  fide  of  the  town,  where  I  went  on  iliore 
to  look  for  plants,  and  there  found  in  great  plenty 
the  handforaeft  in  Egypt,  and  perhaps  of  all  plants, 
viz.  the  Plaintain  tree,  which,  with  Vines,  Mulberry 
and  Peach  trees,  made  part  of  a  hedge  round  a  field, 
in  which  Sugar  and  different  forts  of  Cucumbers 
were  planted.  A  more  valuable  hedge  will  fcarce  be 
found  in  any  other  place.  If  it  was  even  made  of 
valuable  metals,  it  would  not  equal  this.  The 
Plaintain  tree  was  now  in  blolfom,  and  had  al- 
ready at  the  lower  end  of  the  Pedunculus,  fruit 
of  two  inches  long,  on  a  flem  two  fpans  thick  and 
about  three  fathoms  high.  Clifford's  Plaintain 
tree  was  too  valuable  for  our  Linnseus  to  anato- 
mife.  To  me  was  left  the  bufinefs  of  anatomizing 
and  defcribing  it,  which  I  could  do  wit"h  eafe  in  a 
place  where  I  might  cut  down  the  whole  plant  with 
blolToms  and  leaves  for  fourpence  :  I  therefore  dif- 
fered it,  and  found  its  conflruftion  as  wonderful  as 
the  other  parts  which  my  mafler  defcribed.  The 
Vines  had  lately  put  forth  leaves.  The  Egyptians 
don't  cultivate  them  for  the  fake  of  wine,  their  re- 
ligion forbidding  them  to  drink  it.  They  keep  a  few 
for  the  fake  of  the  grapes,  which  they  eat  freih. 
The  Peach  tree  was  in  bloflbm,  but  the  Mulbei-ry 
tree  in  the  fame  fituation  as  the  Vine,  nor  is  it  ap- 
plied to  that  valuable  purpofe  for  which  it  is  fo 
ufeful  to  other  countries. 

The  Maltefe  cruizers  frequently  keep  in  the 
road  before  Damiata,  when  they  are  at  fea,  which 
is  commonly  about  this  time  of  the  year,  when  the 
pilgrims  go  to  the  holy  land.  One  of  them  was  feen 

in 
4 


112      TRAVELS  TO  THE  fcAST. 

in  the  morning  of  the  20th,  at  the  very  month  or 
the  Nile,  where  it  feized  three  of  this  countries 
chebecks,  laden  with  wood  from  Caramania  for* 
Egypt,  and  having  on  board  a  number  of  Turks 
and  Greeks.  The  Turks  taken  on  fuch  an  occafiorl 
are  made  flaves,  and  the  Greeks  are  fet  at  liberty, 
but  their  goods  are  deemed  a  lawful  prize.  Thef6 
cruizers  are  all  equipped  at  Malta,  but  they  feldom' 
carry  a  Maltefe  flag,  except  the  ordinary  religious 
vefl'el  which  is  commanded  by  a  Knight,  and  con- 
ftantly  kept  at  fea.  The  others  carry  the  flag  of 
Sardinia,  Spain,  or  the  Prince  of  Morocco,  as  thefe 
powers  are  never  at  peace  with  the  Porte,  or  the 
Republics  of  Barbary ;  that  above-mentioned  carried 
a  Sardinia  flag,  but  was  from  Malta,  Six  others 
cruized  at  the  fame  time  on  the  coafl:s  of  Syria  and 
Caramania. 

On  the  morning  of  the  2ifl:,  I  had  the  pleafura 
of  feeing  from  my  window  one  of  the  mofl:  remark- 
able fights  in  nature.  A  female  Palm  (Phoenix 
daftylifera  Linnrei)  had  in  the  night  put  forth  its 
blollbms  from  the  fpatha.  I  went  thither  at  fun- 
rife  to  fee  it,  whilfl  the  dew  was  yet  falling.  I  faw 
a  gardener,  the  proprietor  of  the  Palm,  chmbing 
Tip  the  Palm,  which  equalled  our  largeft  firs  in 
height.  He  had  a  bunch  of  male  flowers,  with 
which  he  powdered  the  female,  and  by  thefe  means 
fecundated  them.  After  he  had  done  this,  he 
cut  away  the  inferior  boughs  or  leaves,  between 
which  the  flowers  of  the  preceding  year  had  come 
out,  together  with  the  remarkable  web  which 
covers  the  bafis  of  the  leaves,  and  goes  from  one 
edge  of  a  leaf  to  the  other. 

On  one  fide  of  Damiata  is  a  large  river,  or  ra* 
ther  gulf,  which  empties  itfelf  into  the  fea,  and 
likewife  receives  an  arm  of  the  Nile  j  by  which  the 

land 


TO      DA  MI  ATA.  113 

land  whereon  the  town  is  built  becomes  an  iiland. 
On  the  2  2d,  I  went  out  to  fee  this  gulph.     The 
mixture  of  fea  and  river  water  caufes  this  water  to 
be  neither  fait  nor  fweet,  but  between  both.     A 
number    of  Mi    keep    here,    which    are   caught 
near  Damiata,    and   confift  chiefly  of    the  Burri 
(Mullet)  of   the   Egyptians,  and  different  fpecies 
Sci^nas  Artedi,  which  I  have  already  defcribed.     In 
returning  home  I  faw  a  lingle  tree  of  Caffia  fiilula, 
which  had  ripened  its  pods,  but  had  not  yet  put 
forth  leaves.     This  valuable  tree  is  rarely  feen  in 
thefe    lower   parts  of  Egypt,  but  more  common 
round  Cairo :  it  grows  now  fpontaneoully,  but  was 
firfl  brought  from  India.    On  this  excuriion,  I  found 
the  moil  remarkable  Date  tree  I  had  feen  in  Egypt; 
it  was  compofed  of  two  trees,  which  had  grown  to- 
gether at  their  bafis,  but  parted  two  feet  from  the 
ground,  one  ftem  being  larger  than  the  other.     It 
fometimes  happens  that  feveral  of  thefe  trees  grow 
up  fo  near  to  each  other,  as  to  join  with  their  ba- 
fis ;  but  they  are  always  diftinfl  trees,  nor  does  ever 
one  root  emit  two  ftems.  But  at  Tajum  I  faw  a  Date 
tree  divided  into  two  crowns  near  the  top,  which 
happens  very  rarely.     Entering  the  town,  I  faw  the 
houfe  in  which  the  French  Conful  dwelt  during  his 
flay  at  Damiata.     It  was  entirely  deflroyed,  and 
now  uninhabitable.     It  has  been  in  this  fituation 
ever  fmce  the  Conful  and  his  merchant  were  ex- 
pelled the  town  for  a  riot  which  they  had  raifed 
for  an  affair  of  gallantry  ;  fo  dangerous  and  unpar- 
donable an  offence  is  this  amongft  the  Turks.   From 
that  time  there  has  not  been  a  French  Conful  or 
merchant  in  Damiata.     No  other  nation  hath  ever 
had  any  bufmefs  here.     The  Greeks  alone  have  a 
church  in  Damiata,  by  which  I  afterwards  palfed. 
It  has  a  number  of  priefls  and  a  pretty  large  con-  ' 

I  gregation, 


114      TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

gregation,  particularly  fince  a  number  of  thofc 
Greeks,  who  were  driven  from  Cyprus  by  the  ty- 
ranny of  the  Turks,  have  taken  refuge  here.  There 
are  fome  rich  Greek  merchants  in  Damiata,  and  the 
infpector  of  the  cuftoms  is  a  Greek,  who  pays  400 
purfes  for  his  office;  but  in  moft  of  the  Greeks 
here,  their  national  rarfery  fliews  itfelf.  The  Papiftg 
have  neither  chapel  nor  miilionaries  here,  which  is 
the  only  place  of  any  eonfideration  in  Egypt  de- 
flitute  of  this  kind  of  apoflles.  The  Syrian  mer- 
chants, about  200  in  number,  and  all  confiderable 
people,  have  two  monks  from  the  mountain  of  Lr- 
banon,  of  the  order  of  St.  Anthony,  who  read  mafs 
in  their  chambers,  which  even  the  French  Captains 
frequent.  The  principal  part  of  the  inhabitants 
confifts  in  Turkifn  Janiffaries,  who  are  all  merchants, 
governed  by  Serdas;  moft  of  them  are  rich,  but 
then  they  are  chiefly  knaves  and  run-a ways,  who,  for 
great  mifdemeanors  having  quitted  Conftantinople, 
Caramannia,  or  the  iflands,  took  refuge  in  Egypt, 
and  there  live  in  fafety.  There  are  many  Greeks 
here;  a  few  families  of  Coptites;  about  200  rich 
Syrian  merchants  already  mentioned;  of  Jews  a 
pretty  large  number.  The  brokers  are  all  Jews,  a 
few  of  them  rich,  but  the  greateft  part  poor.  They 
have  no  fynagogue  here,  but  worfhip  God  in  their 
own  private  honfes.  The  Franks  were  obliged  to- 
quit  the  place  entirely,  after  the  French  had  been- 
expelled. 

On  the  2 4th,  we  had  the  fineft  weather  I  had  feeir 
for  twelve  months,  as  it  rained' pretty  hard  in  the  af- 
ternoon. One  fliOUld  live  d.  confiderable  time  in  the 
climate  of  Cairo,  where  there  conftantly  reigns  a- 
fcorching  heat,  and  fcarcely  ten  drops  of  rain  fall  iif 
the  year,  to  be  fenfible  of  the  refrelhment  both  the 
body  and  mind  receive  from  a  cooling  rain. 

The 


to      D  A  M  I  ATA.  115 

,  The  28th,  I  left  Damiata  with  pleafure,  as  it  is 
Xhe  raofl  miferable  place  in  Turkey  for  a  Frank  to 
live  in.  We  had  two  hours  voyage  on  the  Nile 
iProm  Damiata  to  the  fea.  The  fhore  on  the  right 
hand  confifled  of  fand-hills,  with  reeds  near  the 
water^  and  on  the  left  rich  land.  At  the  mouth  of 
the  Nile,  on  the  left  hand,  was  a  tower  which,  they 
fay,  was  founded  in  St.  Louis's  age.  On  the  right 
%as  a  village,  near  which  we  brought  to  with  our 
boat,  and  relied  over  night. 

This  was  the  laft  night  I  flept  on  the  Nile,  and 
the  following  day  we  went  to  fea  with  our  fliip,  and 
failed  three  leagues^    We  were  at  fea  four  days. 


1  2  FROM 


ti6      TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 


TO    THE    HOLY    LAND. 


THE  firft  of  April,  1751,  we  anchored  be- 
fore Jaffa,  called  Joppa  in  the  Holy  Scrip- 
t"Qre,  after  four  days  voyage  from  Damiata.  This 
town^  has  no  harbour,  and  the  velfels  muft  an- 
chor in  the  open  road,  which  obliges  them  to  put 
to  fea  in  the  leaft  bad  weather,  as  is  the  cafe  at 
Damiata.  The  water  was  fo  (hallow  on  this  coaft,  that 
©ur  boat  could  not  reach  land,  and  we  were  obliged 
to  be  carried  on  iliore.  We  were  fet  down  at  the 
fine  Hone  wharf  lately  built  on  the  fliore  :  it  is  the 
only  one  I  have  feen  of  this  kind  in  the  Levant.  I 
went  firfl:  with  my  Captain  to  a  French- factor,  who- 
is  kept  here  by  the  merchants  in  Rama,  and  is  the 
only  Frank  who  dwells  in  Jaffa,  being  an  old  man, 
and  having  two  fons. 

I  WENT  from  thence  to-  the  quarters  of  the  Latin 
monks,  whoiire  here  to  receive  Filgrims,  and  take- 
eare  to  forward  them.  They  were  two  Monks,, 
one  Pried  and  one  Layman,  who  was  Procurator.  I 
had  a- bad  lodging,  becaufe  their  building  was  very 
fmall,  and  the  avarice  of  the  Turks  did  not  permit 
them  to  extend  it,  though  they  ought  to  have  the 
hirgell  lodgings  in  the  Levant,  on  account  of  the 
number  of  travellers  that  land  there;  but  I  was  welt 
treated.  The  Procurator  began  direftly  to  make 
preparations  for  my  journey  to  Jerufalem.  He 
commenced  with  a  queilion  which  I  fliould  wil- 


TO    THE    HOLY    LAKD.         117 

Imgly  have  avoided.     It  was,  Whether  I  came  to 
vifit  the  holy  places  out  of  devotion?  1  anfwered 
without   ambiguity,  No.      What,    continued    the 
Monk,  who  was  a  Spaniard,  travel  to  the  Holy 
Land  without  devotion  ?  i  was  for  putting  an  end 
to  this  difagreeable  converfation,  and  began  ano- 
ther fubjeft,  by  talking  of  money.     I  counted  to 
him  fixty-two  piadres  for  myfeif,  and  the  like  fum 
for  my  fervant.     This  money  every  Frank  pays  in 
Jaffa,  for  his  whole  journey  to  Jerufalem  and  back 
again.     I  left  all  my  things  in  his  charge  till  my  re- 
turn, only  a  fuit  of  cloaths  and  fome  books,  to  dry 
plants  in,  which  were  fent  to  jerufalem  before  me; 
and  I  then  put  on  a  Levant  coat  and  a  Greek  cap, 
carrying  nothing  with  me  but  my  memorandum 
book.     After  thefe  preparations  had  been  made, 
the  Procurator  fent  a  meffenger  to  Jerufalem  to  ad- 
vife  them  of  my  arrival,  and  I  was  obliged  to  v/ait 
his  return.     I  was  well  pleafed  with  this  delay,  as  it 
gave  me  time  to  reft  myfeif,  after  a  difagreeable 
voyage,  before  I  fet  out  on  a  journey  yet  more  dif- 
agreeable by  land.     I  was  now  come  into  the  Holy 
Land,  therefore  had  reafon  to  expeft  continual  in- 
formations of  holy  things.     The  Monks  began  with 
their  hotel,  by  informing  me  that  it  was  the  holy 
place  where  St.  Peter  had  his   fifning  hut,   and 
where  he  threw   the    famous  ring  into   the  fea. 
Every  thing,  even  to  the  table  on  which  we  fupped, 
was  holy.     The  wine  we  drank  came  from  the  holy 
defart  where  St.  John  dwelt;  and  the  olives  grew 
on  the  Mountain  of  Olives  near  Jerufalem.    Thefe, 
independent  of  their  holinefs,  were  of  the  bell  kind 
I  had  tailed  in  the  Levant,  being  fuch  as  Paleiline, 
always  famous  for  Olive-trees,  affords.     Araongil 
thofe  who  vifited  me,  during  my  (lay  in  Jaffa,  was 
jiderkof  thecuffoms^who  on  the  third  day  came  tq 

I  3  receivQ 


ii8       TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

receive  the  twenty-two  piaflres,  which  every  Frank 
is  obhged  to  pay  to  the  cuftora-houfe  of  Jaffa,  for 
the  privilege  of  coming  on  fliore  and  travelling  in 
the  country.  The  inhabitants  of  the  country,  Ar- 
menians, Greeks,  &c.  pay  only  half  the  fum.  But 
as  4000  perfons  arrive  yearly,  befides  as  many 
Jews,  who  come  from  all  quarters  of  the  world,  this 
may  be  efleemed  a  confiderable  revenue  for  the 
Turks ;  and  indeed  they  receive  no  other  from  this 
uncultivated  and  almoft  uninhabited  country.  The 
greateft  part  of  this  money  is  by  legacies  left  to 
Mecca.  A  ihrewd  difpofition,  which  appropriates 
the  revenue  arifmg  from  one  kind  of  fuperflition  to 
the  maintenance  of  another. 

The  4th  of  April,  I  went  out  to  take  a  view  of 
Jaffa.  This  place,  which  may  be  called  a  little 
town,  is  fituated  near  the  fea,  on  a  riling  ground, 
having  a  caflle  on  a  rock,  garrifoned  by  an  officer 
and  fome  foldiers,  which  commands  the  road;  but 
fome  of  the  ordnance  were  honeycombed  with  ruff, 
and  others  funk  in  the  ramparts:  in  this  negligent 
manner  the  Turks  keep  their  forts.  The  place  was 
Ibme  years  ago  in  a  much  worfe  condition  than  at 
prefent;  but  an  Armenian  from  Conftantinople,  for 
reafons  to  me  unknown,  obtained  liberty  to  im- 
prove the  buildings,  which  he  did  by  rebuilding 
the  wharf  already  mentioned,  and  ere^fing  fome 
ftone  houfes  and  magazines  on  the  fhore,  v/hich 
give  the  place  an  appearance  from  the  fea  fide,  much 
preferable  to  the  miferable  profpeft  it  formerly  af-r 
forded.  The  other  houfes  in  the  town  are  poor 
huts,  chiefly  inhabited  by  Turks  and  Arabs,  toge- 
ther with  fome  Greeks  and  Armenians,  whofe 
Monks  have  each  an  hotel  here  for  the  reception  of 
Pilgrims.  The  country  round  the  town  is  not  yery 
agreeable:  the  roads  are  broad  and  level,,  but  incon- 
venient 


TO   THE   HOLY   LAND.         119 

Tenient  from  the  quantity  of  loofe  fand  which  covers 
them :  the  handfome  plain,  which  reaches  as  far  as 
Rama,  begins  at  a  fraall  diftance  from  the  town, 
near  which  are  fome  pleafant  gardens  after  the 
manner  of  the  country,  where  in  particular  I  found 
fome  Fig-trees,  as  beautiful  as  any  I  had  feen  in  the 
Levant,  Here  were  likewife  feveral  Sycamores, 
which  are  fcarcer  as  you  advance  in  the  country. 
The  hedges  were  overgrown  with  different  kinds  of 
prickly  plants,  in  which  the  wild  beafts  had  their 
paffages  and  habitations,  particularly  the  little 
Eaftern  Fox  Jackal,  who  is  to  be  found  in  large 
timbers  in  this  neighbourhood. 


J  4  TO 


ISO     TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 


TO       JERUSALEM. 


THE  5th  of  April,  about  noon,  I  travelled 
from  Jaffa,  accompanied  by  my  merchant 
from  Leghorn,  and  two  French  Monks.  We  got 
from  the  Monks  in  Jaffa,  whofe  bufmefs  it  is  to  ac- 
commodate with  necelTaries  thofe  who  intend  to  vifit 
Jerufalera,  miferable  affes,  and  yet  worfe  faddles, 
together  with  ten  Arabs  and  two  Turkifli  horfe- 
men  to  conduft  us,  who  received  us  at  the  town's 
end.  The  whole  country  from  Jaffa  to  Rama  con- 
fifls  of  little  hills;  between  thefe  are  level  and 
handfome  vales,  which  extend  in  large  plains.  A 
part  is  turned  into  corn  fields,  but  mofl  of  it  lies 
wafle.  The  ground  here  confifts  of  a  loofe  reddifli 
iandy  mould ;  and  I  have  never  feen  in  any  place 
the  ground  fo  caft  up  by  moles  as  in  thefe 
plains.  There  was  fcarce  a  yard's  length  between 
each  mole  hill.  This  is  an  advantageous  circum- 
ifance  for  all  forts  of  felf-fown  wild  plants;  there- 
fore entire  plains  were  covered  with  Buphthalmum 
foliis  oblongis  dentatis ;  or  Oxeye,  with  oblong 
dentated  leaves;  which  made  them  much  yellower 
than  our  Swediili  meadows  are  in  the  month  of 
June,  from  the  Caltha  Paluftris  and  Ranunculus, 
or  Marfh-marygold  and  Crowfoot.  In  other  places 
the  fields  were  white  with  a  fort  of  Matricaria, 
or  Feverfew.  In  three  places,  we  had  fine  vales 
abounding  with  Olive-trees.  Cranes,  the  inhabit- 
ants of  uncultivated  countries,  were  here  to  be  found 

in 


T  O     J  E  R  USA  L  E  M.         121 

in  great  numbers.  At  four  o'clock  we  came  to 
Rama,  and  alighted  at  the  fine  convent,  which,  if 
.we  except  Jerufalem,  is  the  beft  in  the  Holy  Land. 
In  the  afternoon  of  the  7  th,  the  Prefident  at  the 
■Holy  Sepulchre  in  Jerufalem  went  with  the  greateft 
part  of  the  Monks  to  the  church,  where  the  Holy 
Sepulchre  is,  to  remain  there  till  Eafter  day,  after 
.they  had  firfl  made  a  holy  vifit  in  the  morning  of 
the  4th,  to  the  place  where  the  garden  Gethfemane 
had  been.  About  three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon, 
the  Monk,  who  was  appointed  to  wait  on  me,  con- 
ducted me  to  the  famous  temple  where  the  places 
were  ihewn,  which  Chrift,  by  his  fufferings,  death 
and  burial,  has  immortalized  in  memory.  Before 
.the  door  of  the  temple  is  a  little  place,  to  which  one 
defcends  by  a  flair  cafe  of  ten  or  twelve  fteps.  This 
ferves  for  a  market,  in  which  Paternofters  were  the 
chief  commodity.  The  place  on  which  the  temple 
is  built,  is  faid  to  be  that  which  formerly  was  called 
Golgotha,  or  the  place  of  Skulls.  The  Europeans 
imagine  this  is  a  hill  or  rifing  ground  ;  it  is  quite  the 
contrary,  a  va}e  or  deep  ground.  We  now  went 
into  the  temple,  which  at  its  entry  had  two  doors, 
one  befide  the  other,  but  one  of  them  was  walled 
up.  Before  the  entry  we  found  three  Turks, 
a  Scherif  or  Lawyer,  a  Janiffary,  and^  a  Bo- 
flangi,  who  were  ordered  thither  by  the  Regency 
of  the  country.  The  bufmefs  of  the  firfl  is  to 
mark  down  the  nam^es  of  thofe  who  go  in,  for 
fake  of  the  payment,  which  the  Turkiih  Regency 
takes  froin  th€  Chriflians  who  vifit  this  place,  as  it 
belongs  to  the  Turks.  The  latter  fliould  take  care 
and  prevent  quarrels  between  Chriflians  of  various 
denominations,  who  pay  their  devotions  here.  The 
lirfl  thing  I  was  lliewn  at  my  entrance,  was  the  flone 
on  which  Chrifl's  body,  as  they  fay,  was  laid  and 

'  anointed 


122      TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

anointed  by  the  women,  before  it  was  placed  in  the 
grave.  It  is  directly  oppofite  the  door,  and  a  few 
fleps  from  it,  furrounded  with  high  iron  rails.  It  is 
a  fine  flab  of  white  marble,  about  fix  feet  long  ancj 
three  broad.  This  belongs  to  the  Latins ;  for  each 
kind  of  Chriftians,  except  Proteftants,  pofTefs  cer- 
tain holy  things.  From  thence  we  went  into  the 
holy  Sepulchre,  which  is  in  the  midft  of  the  choir, 
being  the  center  of  the  church,  and  belongs  to  the 
Latins. 

In  the  afternoon  of  the  8th,  I  went  to  fee  fome 
,of  the  remarkable  places  in  the  town.  i.  The 
Bazar,  or  market  place,  which  is  miferable,  and 
contains  few  valuable  goods.  2.  A  houfe,  in  which 
the  mother  of  the  fons  of  Zebedee  lived,  as  the 
Monks  report.  The  Maltefe  had  it  for  their  dwel- 
ling, whilfl  they  were  mafters  of  Jerufalem.  The 
Greeks  have  now  turned  it  into  an  inn  for  pilgrims, 
and  have  a  little  chapel  there.  3.  A  church  of  the 
Syrians,  which  is  faid  to  have  been  St.  Mark'? 
houfe.  They  fliew  a  ftone  veffel,  in  which  the 
Apoflles  are  faid  to  have  baptized  the  primitive 
Chriftians.  4.  The  place  where  Annas's  palace  for- 
merly flood;  iind  where  Chrift  was  tried,  which  be- 
longs to  the  Armenians,  who  have  a  little  chapel 
there.  -^Before  the  houfe  ftands  an  old  Olive-tree^ 
which  thefe  people  have  in  great  veneration :  the 
ftem  of  it  is  covered  over  with  earth,  and  it  has 
only  fome  branches  above  ground.  They  fay  that 
Chrift  was  tied  to  this  tree  whilft  the  trial  conti- 
nued. 5,  Another  Armenian  chapel,  faid  to  be 
iDuilt  on  the  place  where  Chrift  was  examined  be- 
fore Caiaphas :  this  was  not  far  from  the  other,  but 
without  the  town  gate.  In  both  was  a  little  (c-> 
parate  chamber  well  ornamented,  exa£lly  over  the 
place  where  the  aiTair  happened,  which  was  painted 

in 

I 


TO     JERUSALEM.         i^g 

In  It.  In  the  chapel  of  Caiaphas,  the  altar  confifted 
of  a  done  eight  feet  long  and  five  feet  high,  faid 
jto  be  the  fame  which  had  beei>  laid  on  Chrill's 
grave  at  his  burial,  and  the  women  wouI4  have 
taken  away,  but  found  it  too  large.  It  was  now 
covered  with  mortar  an  inch  thick,  and  was  of  "the 
hard  limeftone,  common  in  Palefline.  In  fome 
places  they  have  left  it  bare,  for  devout  Pilgrims  to 
.  kifs  :  here  was  likewife  painted  Peter's  denial  of 
Chrifl:,  From  thence  we  went  out  through  one  of 
the  town  gates,  and  came  immediately  on  the  holy 
,  njount  Sion,  fo  famous  in  the  days  of  David.  It  is 
now  a  defart  flat  and  level,  fituated  immediately 
without  the  ramparts.  It  is  occupied  by,  and  left 
to  the  Chriflians  for  a  burial  place,  where  all  deno- 
minations of  them  bury  their  dead.  Hence  we 
could  fee  a  Turkifli  Mofque,  with  a  handfome 
cupola,  erefted  over  David  and  Solomon's  grave. 
In  this  fame  place,  they  fay,  Chrifl:  inftituted  the 
Lord's  Supper,  and  the  Holy  Ghofi:  came  upon  tlie- 
Apoflles.  No  Chriftian  can  approach  nearer  to 
this  molt  principal  of  holy  places,  than  Sioii,  which 
is  at  two  guns  iliot  diftance.  I  botanized  on  the  dry 
and  poor  Sion,  and  found  fome  common  plants 
there,  viz.  Allium  pallens,  Veronsnfe ;  Belonica  ojfici- 
nalis ;  B'lfcutella  didyma ;  'irifoliuni  alobofum,  tO' 
7nentofiim,  refupinatum;  Ephedra  diftachia'^. 

The  9th  in  the  forenoon,  I  paid  a  vifit  to  the 
Patriarch  of  the  Armenians,  with  whom  I  had  been 
acquainted  in  Smyrna.  He  refided  in  the  convent 
of  this  nation,  which  is  the  largefh  in  Jerufalem, 
larger  than  that  of  the  Latins,  and  the  next  to  it  in 
riches.  It  has  above  1000  chambers  for  Pilgrims, 
befide  thofe  of  the  Monks.  The  rich  Armenian 
nation,  which  is  more  inclined  to  devotion,  if  not 

*  Two  Lrts  of  Garlick,  Betony  of  the  fhops,  Buckler  Mullard, 
ijjree  foits  of  Trtfoi!,  and  the  Snrubby  Horletaii. 

fuperftition, 


Z54      TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

fuperflition,  than  any  other  nation  of  the  Eall,  hath 
by  pilgrimages  put  this  their  fpiritual  dwelling  in 
Jeruialem  into  fo  refpeftable  a  condition.  There  is 
not  a  year  pafles  but  more  than  looo  Pilgrims  ar- 
rive from  Armenia,  Perfia,  and  Turkey,  who  never 
ieave  it  without  giving  confiderable  alms.  The  cha- 
pel which  they  have  here  in  the  convent  is  the  hand- 
fomefl  of  all  the  private  chapels  in  Jerufalem  j  the 
■whole  is  adorned  with  rich  hangings,  fine  painting^-, 
and  an  innumerable  quantity  of  valuable  filver 
lamps,  fome  gilt,  and  almofl  all  made  by  eminent 
mafters.  Going  home,  I  palTed  by  David's  caflle, 
which  at  this  time  is  the  name  of  a  Turkifli  fort, 
and  the  only  one  with  which  they  think  themfelves 
able  to  defend  Jerufalem.  This  is  almofl  totally 
deflroyed,  as  are  all  the  fortreffes  belonging  to  the 
Sultan.  On  a  platform  lay  a  dozen  of  cannon, 
which  muft  be  cafl  over  again  before  they  can  be 
ufed.  This  fort  lies  on  a  low  ground,  and  is  not 
fituated  fo  as  to  command  the  town.  It  ferves  only 
to  give  fignals  by  firing  fome  cannon  on  the  feflivals 
of  the  Turks.  Jerufalem  has  amongft  its  inha- 
bitants about  20,000  Jews.  The  Jew  women  go 
here  with  their  faces  uncovered;  this  the  Turks 
have  ordered,  that  they  may  be  known  from  their 
own  women.  The  greatefl  part  of  the  Jews  here 
are  poor,  as  they  have  no  opportunity  of  trafficking; 
for  without  it  they  cannot  thrive  in  any  part  of  the 
world.  They  have  no  other  income  here  than 
what  they  can  get  from  the  Pilgrims  of  their  na> 
tion,  who  come  far  and  wide  from  all  places  to  pay 
their  refpecls  to  the  feat  of  their  forefathers.  Their 
Rabbi  has  large  revenues  from  his  brethren  through- 
out the  whole  world,  of  which  the  Turks  draw  the 
greatefl  part;  for  Jews  as  well  as  Chriflians  mufl 
conflanily  bring  offerings  to  their  altars^  if  they  will 
kifs  their  holy  places  in  peace. 

^  T  Q 


1  O     J  E  R  I  C  H  a 


TO      J  E  R  1  C  tl  6. 


ASTER  day  fell  tliis  year  on  the  fith  of 

April,  new  ftyle.     After  di-^^ine  fervice,  and 

all  the  ceremonies  were  ended  at  the  holy  Sepul- 
chre, we  went  to  St.  Salvador  to  dine.  At  dinner 
the  Superior  broke  the  filence,  which  had  lafted 
during  the  Lent ;  and  at  the  fame  time  proclaimed,' 
that  all  who  intended  to  make  the  journey  to  Jordan,- 
and  the  remarkable  places- adjacent,  fhould  be  ready 
to  go  with  the  Caravan  after  dinner.  We  affembled 
at  the  time  appointed,  and  found  a  company  of 
4000  people,  Greeks,  Armenians,  Goptites,  Sy- 
rians, and  a  few  Roman  Catholics.  From  the  Latiri 
convent  were  the  Superior,  the  Procurator^  and- 
Vicar,  with  about  thirty  Monks,  the  interpreters 
and  Janiffaries  of  the  convent.  The  Caravan  was' 
kd  by  the  Governor  of  Jerufalem  with  300  foldiers, 
and  was  accompanied  by  the  Arabian  Princes  and 
commanders  from  the  confines  of  thofe  places' 
through  which  we  were  to  pafs.  The  Governot 
makes  a  good  deal  of  money  by  this  journey,  con-^ 
fidering  the  fhort  time  and  little  trouble  that  is  em-^ 
ployed  in  it ;  for  he  receives  from  each  of  the  in- 
habitants four,  and  from  a  Frank  ten  piafiers.  Be- 
diany,  famous  for  the  raifmg  of  Lazarus  from  the 
dead,  was  the  firfl  remarkable  place  we  came  to, 
about  three  quartern  of  a   mile  from   the  town.. 

We 


126      TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

We  were  fliewn  the  place  where  Lazarus's  Sepul- 
chre had  been;  over  which  was  erefted  a  Httle  flone 
hut,  and  the  ruins  of  an  old  houfe,  but  no  other 
figns  of  a  town  or  building,  which  formerly  muft 
have  been  there.  After  travelling  two  leagues,  we 
refted  at  another  old  demolifhed  houfe,  which  was 
reported  to  be  a  remarkable  place  by  the  Monks* 
It  would  make  one  fmile  to  be  Ihewn  a  place  where 
an  affair  happened,  which  perhaps  never  did  hap- 
pen; for  they  fay  this  was  the  place  where  the 
man  fell  in  amongfl  the  robbers,  and  waspafTedby 
the  Prieft,  but  taken  up  by  the  Samaritan :  a  pa- 
rable which  Chrifl  delivered  after  his  ufual  manner, 
and  therefore  cannot  be  affigned  to  any  particular 
fpot.  Not  far  from  this  place,  is  a  hill  on  which 
the  Chriflians  in  the  time  of  the  Croifades  had  a 
fort.  On  this  road  the  original  fituation  of  Judea 
may  be  feen,  which  is  the  fame  as  it  hath  been  from 
time  immemorial;  though  many  divines  contend^ 
that  Judea  hath  undergone  a  change,  or,  according 
to  their  manner  of  fpeaking,  hath  been  transformed 
fmce  the  death  of  Chrifl.  Judea  is  a  country  full 
of  hills  and  vales,  and  as  fuch  it  has  been  defcribed 
both  in  the  Old  and  New  Teftament;  where  it  is  al- 
ways called  a  hilly  land,  and  is  every  where  famous 
for  its  mountains.  The  hills  are  all  of  a  moderate 
height,  uneven,  and  are  not  of  any  mathematical 
figure,  like  many  others,  which  are  either  of  a 
conic,  hemifpheric,  or  fome  other  fuch  form^  At 
firft,  and  nearefl  to  Jerufalem,  they  confifl  of  a  very 
hard  limeflone,  which  approaches  to  the  nature  of  a 
flint,  of  a  whitifli  colour,  or  pretty  near  a  pale 
yellow.  They  afterwards,  and  nearer  the  Dead  Sea, 
confifl  of  a  more  loofe  limeflone,  fometimes  white 
and  fometimes  greyifh;  between  which  are  layers 
of  a  reddilh  mieaceous  ftone,    or  Sa?!u?n  punm 

micauum. 


TO     JERICHO.  Hi 

micaceum.  Near  Jerufalon  grow  diiFerent  forts  of 
plants  on  thefe  hills,  efpecially  Ceratonla^  Carob- 
tree;  Myrtus^  Myrtle ;  and  'Tereblnthus,  Turpentine- 
tree;  but  farther  towards  Jericho,  they  are  bare 
and  barren.  The  vales,  like  the  hills,  are  not  fruit- 
ful, but  deferted  and  uncultivated,  being  full  of 
pebbles,  and  without  vegetables ;  neverthelefs,  the 
earth  confifts  of  a  good  red  mould,  and  would  am- 
ply reward  the  hufbandman's  toil.  In  the  begin- 
ing  they  are  fomewhat  narrow,  but  become  wider 
nearer  Jordan.  Thefe  interchanges  of  hills  and 
vales,  make  the  roads  in  Judea  as  dangerous  as  in 
any  place  whatever;  and  they  could  not  be  travelled 
with  any  but  Arabian  horfes,  which  are  ufed  to  go 
upon  fuch  ftony  roads  as  feem  irapalTable,  and  per-* 
form  it  with  great  fagacity.  I  have  had  fuch  proofs 
of  this  as  I  (hould  fcarce  believe,  if  I  had  not  ieen  ic 
myfelf,  efpecially  on  the  journey  from  Jericho  tof 
the  Dead  Sea  :  but  though  thefe  creatures  are  ufed 
to  trot  in  the  hills,  they  will  blunder  unlefs  they 
be  well  governed.  This  I  faw  by  thofe  on  which 
the  Monks  rid,  who  were  but  indifferent  riders, 
and  therefore  their  horfes  feemed  to  have  forgot 
the  expertnefs  and  fafety  with  which  they  went 
when  managed  by  an  able  horfeman.  The  fun  had 
already  hid  himfelf  behind  the  hills  of  Stony 
Arabia,  and  the  moon  come  from  her  retreat ;  wheii 
we,  at  eight  o'clock  in  the  evening,  arrived  at  our 
encampment,  which  was  laid  out  on  the  great  plain:- 
of  Jericho,  that  extends  two  leagues  in  length  along. 
the  Dead  Sea.  Here  we  found  tents  erected  for  us,- 
which  by  the  care  of  the  Procjirator  had  been- 
brought. thither;  under  which  we  had  a  pleafang^ 
and  delicious  fupper,  and  reded  during  the  darkell 
part  of  the  night.  My  Herbarium  ferved  mt  for  a 
pillow.  I  was  happy  in  having  this,  when  the  red- 
of  the  company,  and  the  hiperior  himfelf,  hi:d  no- 

thiiix 


128      TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

thing  to  lay  on  but  the  bare  earth.  If  our  bed  whs 
not  convenient,  our  reft  was  not  long.  We  aroie 
before  day -break  to  go  to  the  mountain  where  Chrifl 
failed  and  was  tempted  by  the  devil :  we  came 
thither  at  fun-rife,  and  began  to  afcend  before  the 
iieat  fhould  incommode  us.  The  mountain  is  high 
and  pointed ;  and  on  our  left,  as  we  afcended,  was  a 
deep  valley,  towards  which  the  rock  was  perpen- 
dicularly fteep.  It  confifts  of  a  loofe  white  lime- 
flone,  feixed  with  another  that  is  greyifh  and 
harder.  The  way  up  ta  its  higheft  point  is  danger- 
ous beyond  imagination.  It  is  narrow,  fteep,  full 
of  rocks  and  ftOnes,  which  obliged  us  frequently  to 
creep  over  them  before  we  could  accomplifti  our  de- 
fign.  The  difficulty  is  encreafed  by  the  valley  on- 
one  fide ;  which,  befide  its  terrible  afpe^t,  is  danger- 
ous in  cafe  one  fhould  flip,  as  in  fuch  cafe  it  would 
be  impoffible  to  efcape  death.  Near  the  top  of 
the  mountain  are  the  ruins  of  an  old  Greek  con- 
vent, which  fliew  how  the  Monks  and  Anchorites  of 
the  ancient  Chriftians  lived,  and  what  places  they 
inhabited,  viz.  fuch  as  really  inclined  them  to  lead  a 
lonely,  detached,  and  devout  hfe :  therefore  de- 
farts  and  inacceffible  rocks  were  chofen  by  the  pri- 
mitive Chriftians  for  their  dwellings,  where  they 
might  offer  up  their  prayers  in  folitude.  The  former 
are  yet  occupied  by  the  Coptite  Monks  in  Egypt, 
for  they  have  two  convents  in  the  defarts;  and  with 
refpeft  to  the  latter,  the  Greeks  preferve  the  an- 
cient dwellings  of  their  forefathers  in  Mount  Sinai, 
Saba,  St.  Elias,  and  other  places  in  the  Eaft.  I 
went  as  far  up  on  this  terrible  mountain  of  teinpta- 
tion  as  prudence  would  permit,  but  ventured  not  to 
go  to  the  top,  whither  I  fent  my  fervant  to  bring  what 
natural  curiofities  he  could  find,  whilll  I  gathered 
what  plants  and  infe<Sts  I  could  find  below  j  of  the 

latter 


TO      JERICHO.  I2P 

latter  I  found  a  very  curious  and  newCimex,  or  bug. 
I  had  time  enough  to  view  the  mountain  and  ad- 
jacent country,  when  we  broke  up  at  nine  o'clock, 
and  continued  our  journey  to  Jericho,  and  travelled 
over  a  part  of  its  large  plain,  which  was  entirely 
defart  and  uncultivated,  bringing  forth  a  number 
of  the  trees  that  afford  the  oil  of  Zacchseus,  and  fome 
Rhamnus  call'd  Chriil'sThorn.  We  came,  after  a  little 
time,  to  the  fountain  of  Eliflia,  which  is  the  name  of 
a  fine  fpring  of  frefli  water,  fituated  in  a  vale,  and 
furrounded  with  divers  fine  trees,  viz.  Salix  fafsaf, 
Lonicerse  afiEinis  floribus  coccineis ;  and,  amongfi:  the 
reft,  fome  Fig-trees,  which  grew  there  wild.  We 
continued  our  journey  over  a  vale  of  this  plain,  in 
which  the  Arabians  had  fown  barley  for  their 
horfes ;  and  this  was  the  only  cultivated  fpot  of 
ground  I  had  feen  between  Jerufalem  and  Jericho, 
a  country  of  a  good  day's  journey  in  extent.  We 
came  rowards  noon  to  Jericho,  or  two  ftones  call 
from  the  place  where  they  fhew  fome  remains  in 
memory  of  this  famous  town.  At  this  time  there  is 
not  the  leaft  building,  except  the  walls  of  an  old 
houfe,  which  the  Monks,  who  are  apt  to  fan^lify 
every  thing,  have  called  the  houfe  of  Zacchasus, 
who,  as  they  fay,  climbed  up  in  a  Sycamore  tree, 
growing  on  this  road,  to  fee  Chrift.  But  the  Chrif- 
tians  of  the  Eaft  fay  that  he  climbed  up  in  a  different 
kind  of  tree,  which  now  grows  common  here,  and  of 
whofe  fruit  the  Arabs  exprefs  an  oil,  which  the  Pil- 
grims purchafe  under  the  name  of  Zacchasus's  oil. 
The  Grecian  text  plainly  calls  it  Sycomiorus;  which  in 
the  Swediili  tranflation,  and  by  Luther,  is  erroneoufly 
called  a  Mulberry  tree.  The  Sycamore  does  not 
grow  near  this  place  at  prefent,  but  is  to  be  found 
in  other  parts  of  Judea  nearer  the  fea;  and  might 
have  been  planted  here  when  the  country  was  in- 

K  habited 


130      TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

habited  and  cultivated.  We  returned  in  the  after- 
noon to  our  tents;  and  after  dinner  I  walked  out  to 
fearch  for  Natural  curiofities  around  Jericho,  efpe- 
cially  near  the  rivulet  that  runs  acrofs  the  plain.  The 
famous  Afclepias  gigantea  of  Judea,  and  the  tree 
whofe  flowers  referable  a  Honeyfuckle,  and  hath  thick 
leaves,  were  the  mofl  remarkable  plants  I  found. 

We  broke  up  from  Jericho  dire£dy  after  mid- 
night, to  go  to  Jordan.  We  travelled  over  the  re- 
maining part  of  the  plain  of  Jericho,  and  therefore 
had  a  good  road.  We  came  before  day-break  to 
the  fhore  of  Jordan,  three  leagues  from  the  Dead 
Sea.  Here  mafs  was  read  by  feven  Priefts.  1  ob- 
ferved  the  different  breadths  of  Jordan.  Here  it 
was  about  eight  paces  over,  the  fliores  perpendi- 
cular, fix  feet  high,  the  water  deep,  muddy,  rather 
warm  than  cold,  and  much  inferior  in  goodnefs  to 
the  Nile.  On  the  fhores  grew  Rhamnus,Vitex  Agnus 
Caflus,  a  Willow  of  which  Pilgrim.s  make  ftaffs.  "We 
travelled  hence  to  the  Dead  Sea,  accompanied  by 
an  Arabian  Prince.  The  plain  reached  to  the  fea, 
and  was  three  leagues  long,  level,  with  fome  fmall 
rifmg  grounds  difperfed  in  different  places  ;  between 
which  were  narrow  vales,  uncultivated  and  barren. 
The  foil  is  a  greyifli  fandy  clay,  fo  loofe  that  our 
horfes  often  funk  up  to  the  knees  in  it.  The  whole 
furface  of  the  earth  was  covered  with  fait,  in  the 
fame  manner  as  in  Egypt.  The  foil  therefore  was 
Egyptian,  and  might  be  as  fruitful  if  it  were  tilled; 
and,  without  doubt,  it  was  fo  in  the  time  of  the 
Ifraelites.  The  river  had  thrown  up  a  quantity  of 
Willow  at  its  mouth.  The  fliore  confiiled  of  the  fame 
clay  as  the  large  plain  over  which  we  had  paifed. 
In  fcveral  places  were  perpendicular  ftrata  formed 
of  a  reddifh  brittle  earth;  which,  without  doubt,  will 
in  time  become  Ikte,  inclofed  m  limeftone,  fuch  as 


TO     JERICHO.  131 

Is  to  be  found  in  the  different  parts  of  Judea  nearell 
the  Dead  Sea.  The  flones  on  the  Ihore  were  all 
C)uartz,  of  different  colours  and  fizes.  We  fol- 
lowed the  whole  length  of  the  fea  ihore.  Here  I 
found  Quartz  flones  in  the  form  of  a  flate,  which  is 
one  of  the  rareff  Natural  curiofities  I  got  in  my  tra- 
vels. If  it  was  burnt,  it  fmelt  like  Bitumen  ;  which 
proves  that  it  had  its  origin  from  it,  like  all  the  flate 
of  this  country.  We  took  another  road  to  our  en- 
campment, and  followed  the  foot  of  that  mountain, 
which  at  this  time  divides  Arabia  Petrsea  from  the 
Holy  Land  ;  and  was  formerly  the  boundaries  of  rhe 
Ifraelites  who  lived  on  this,  and  the  other  fide  of 
Jordan.  A  Lichen  covered  in  feveral  places  the  clay 
ground  in  this  large  plain,  \^hich  was  fomewhat 
ftrange  in  an  open  defart.  There  grew  in  feveral 
places  of  this  defart,  the  Tamarilk  tree ;  Reaumuria ; 
a  kind  of  the  Arabian  Kali,  and  a  labiated  flower 
of  Linnceus  j  clafs  of  Didynamia ;  this  had  a  foetid 
fmell,  and  is  called  Bafel  by  the  Arabs,  which  fignifies 
a  Leek.  I  found  but  one  fhrub  of  the  Mimofa  Ni- 
lotica,  or  true  Acafia ;  which  has  been  brought  hither 
by  birds  from  Arabia,  its  proper  and  native  country. 
In  a  place  near  the  foot  of  this  mountain,  is  a  river 
that  has  its  fhores  covered  with  Reed,  which  does 
not  grow  near  the  Dead  Sea.  We  faw  on  the  top  of 
a  mountain,  the  Greek  Convent  St.  Saba,  famous  in 
former  times ;  and  where,  in  the  firfl  ages  of  Chrifti- 
anity,  4000  Monks  were  maintained,  who  lived  there 
in  caves.  The  Greeks  continue  to  make  pilgrimages 
hither,  and  have  Monks  fent  hither  as  a  punifliment 
for  fome  tranfgreffions.  As  we  continued  our  journey, 
T  found  the  Partridge  of  Arabia,  or  the  Holy  Land, 
which  hath  never  been  before  defcribed;  and  1  think 
it  alone  worth  a  journey  to  the  Dead  Sea.  Thefe 
birds  are  undoubtedly  the  Quails  of  the  Ifraelites. 
K  2  TO 


13?       TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 


TO      JERUSALEM. 


GOOD  Friday  fell  on  the  1 2*^  of  April,  new  fly]  e. 
Every  one  may  imagine  that  it  was  particu- 
larly celebrated  in  Jerufalem,  as  being  the  place 
where  thofe  things  happened,  which  make  this  day 
facred  to  all  ChriOJans.     The  ceremonies  at  the 
holy  Sepulchre  were  thefe :  i  .We  went  in  the  church 
at  three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  when  the  officium 
began  as  ufual;  and  ended  when  the  Superior  fell 
en  his  knees  before  the  door  of  the  holy  Sepulchre, 
and  faid  his  prayers.   2.  At  fix  o'clock  we  went  into 
the  little  convent,  which  the  Latins  have  befide  the 
chureh,  through  which  they  go  into  the  vellry  room. 
Here  we  fupped,  which  was  the  miferableft  meal  I 
ever  eat :  it  confifled  of  a  head  of  lettuce ;  the  de- 
ficiency was  to  be  made  up  with  bread  and  wine; 
two  material  articles  for  the  refrefhment  and  fufte- 
nance  of  man,  and  which  the  Monks  always  had 
very  good.     To  be  more  at  liberty,  which  is  hard  to 
obtain  in  a  cloifter.  I  went  with  a  Jefuit,  who  was  a 
Pilgrim,  into  another  chamber,  where  we  were  re- 
frelhed  with   Hebron  wine,  and   excellent  bread, 
baked  with  oil,  that  we  might  fapport  a  whole 
night  and  day's  fatigue  in  beholding  the  ceremonies. 
A   Capuchin,  who  came  immediately  after  to  us, 
made  a  better  fupper  than  either  of  us;  in  virtue  of 
a  Canon  ufed  by  the  Monks,  which  he  rehearfed  : 
c  "  Humidum 


TO     JERUSALEM.         133 

**  Humidum  non  rumpit  jejunium;"  but  he.  added 
"  modice  fumtum."  3.  At  eight  o'clock,  the  proceffion 
began  to  the  moft  remarkable  places  in  the  church. 
Whilll:  this  was  doing,  feven  fermons  were  preached 
in  different  languages,  which  was  the  bell  of  any 
thing  that  was  done.  The  firfl:  was  preached  in  the 
veftry  room,  before  the  proceffion  went  out;  during 
which  the  Monks  underwent  difcipline,  as  they  call 
it,  or  whipt  themfelves  in  memory  of  the  fufferings 
of  Chrift.  They  had  fermon  and  difcipline  amonglf 
themfelves,  without  any  fpeftators.  Upon  this  the 
proceffion  came  out  into  the  church,  and  halted 
firft,  where  the  cloaths  of  Chrifl  had  been  divided ; 
and  here  the  fecond  fermon  was  preached  in 
French,  by  a  Monk  from  the  Low  Countries. 

We  afterwards  went  to  the  place  of  crucifixion, 
belonging  to  the  Greeks,  under  which  they  have 
their  magnificent  choir.  Here  they  preached  a 
third  fermon,  on  the  place  where  Chriil  was  nailed 
to  the  crofs;  and  the  fourth,  not  far  from  thence, 
where  the  crofs  was  fet  down,  and  where  they  fhew 
the  hole  which  is  open,  round,  of  half  a  fpan  dia- 
meter, and  lined  with  filver,  over  which  the  Greeks 
have  built  a  fine  altar.  Here  the  firll  was  preached 
in  French  by  the  fame  Monk,  and  the  other  in  Ita- 
lian by  a  German.  We  defcended  hence,  and  came 
to  the  (lone  where  Chrifl's  body  Vv^as  anointed: 
here  was  preached  a  fermon  in  Arabian,  and  at 
eleven  o'clock  we  finifiied  the  proceffion  at  the 
grave,  where  a  flow  and  zealous  Spaniard  tried  our 
patience. 

The  15th,  I  went  to  fee  thofe  places  in  the  town 
which  had  hitherto  efcaped  my  notice,  and  which 
were  thought  remarkable,  i.  Where  the  old  city 
fonr^erly  ended,  which  is  now  in  the  middle  of  th<; 
new.  2.  V/here  St.  Veronica  dried  the  face  of  Chriil 

K  3  with 


134    TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

with  the  famous  napkin,  g.  Where  Chrift's  judg- 
ment was  read,  "  JefusNazarenus  Rex  Juda?orum," 
where  now  {lands  a  broken  column,  erected  by  St. 
Helena,  in  memory  of  the  place.  4.  Where  Chrifl: 
fell  down,  tired  by  the  weight  of  the  crofs.  5.  The 
place  where  Pilate  iliewed  Chrift  to  the  people,  and  ■ 
faid, "  Ecce  homo ;"  where  are  the  ruins  of  a  theatre 
and  an  arch  pretty  high.  6.  Where  Mary  Mag- 
dalene obtained  the  Remiilion  of  Sins :  here  the 
Turks  have  a  wretched  Mofque.  7.  The  palace 
-of  Herod,  now  the  ftable  of  a  Turk.  8.  The 
Tower,  which  defended  itfelf  longed  again  Vefpa- 
fian.  9.  The  place  where  one  of  the  gates  to  So- 
Jcmon's  temple  flood,  i  o.  The  grotto  where  the 
Virgin  Mary  is  faid  to  have  been,  born :  over  this 
the  Turks  have  a  large  well-built  Mofque,  which  be- 
fore was  a  fine  church.  Here  was  a  fine  court; 
and  in  it  grew  Iris  florentina,  Jafminum  fruticofum, 
Amygdalus  and  Rhus  coriaria.  1 1.  An  old  fquare, 
and  formerly-magnificent  ciflern  or  pool;  in  which 
the  angel  ftirred  the  water  at  Bethefda,  that  came 
from  Fons  Signatus.  12.  A  gate  of  the  town  St. 
Mary,  which  was  fliut,  like  all  the  others,  daring 
the  time  of  pilgrimage.  13.  The  hofpital  of  St. 
Helena,  formerly  a  magnificent  building,  now  an 
lioufe  for  the  poor,  poifefled  by  the  Turks :  here 
were  feven  large  copper  kettles,  which  are  faid  to 
have  been  here  from  the  firfl  foundation,  and  two 
were  yet  ferviceable.  14.  The  palace  of  Pilate, 
now  the  feat  of  the  Turkiih  Governor,  but'almofl 
ruined.  15.  Hence  we  fiiw  the  temple  of  Solo- 
mon, which  is  an  o£l:angular  well-conditioned 
Mofque,  with  a  fine  court  before  it.  In  going  out 
from  the  court  of  Pilate's  houfe,  the  place  is  fliewn 
where  Sandta  Scala  flood,  which  is  preferved  in 
Rome  as  a  valuable  relique.     1 6.  The  prifon  of 

Peter, 


T  O     J  E  R  U  S  A  L  E  M.  135 

Peter,  which  is  yet  ufed  by  the  Turks,  to  imprifon 
thofe  guiky  of  great  crimes.     1 7.  A  Greek  chape?, 
where  Abraham  intended  to  offer  his  fon  Ifaac  on 
the  place  of  Skulls.     The  holy  Sepulchre  is  in  the 
middle  of  the  church,  which  is  built  over  the  holy 
places,  in  the  middle  point  of  that  choir  which  be- 
longs to  the  Latins,  and  which  is  the  middle  part  of 
the  church.     The  chapel  round  the  holy  Sepul- 
chre, is  quadrangular,  confiding  of  two  apartments ; 
the  exterior  can  hold  twelve  people,  and  the  inte- 
rior fix.     In  the  interior  apartment  is  a  coffin  of 
marble,  on  one  fide  of  the  wall,  over  the  burial 
place :  over  this  hang  a  number  of  lamps,  belong- 
ing to  all  the  different  fe(5ls.     The  chapel  is  ruin- 
ous, and  cannot  be  repaired  on  account  of  the  diA 
fenfions  of  the  fefts.     Directly  oppofite  the  door  of 
this  chapel,    the  Greeks  have   their   magnificent 
choir ;  and  over  it  is  the  place  where  Chrifl  was 
fixed  to  the  crofs,  belonging  to  the  Greeks,  built  in 
a  half  cyhndric  form.     The  large  choir  adjoins  alfo 
to  a  gallery,  of  which  the  Armenians  have  a  fhare, 
confiding  of  a  fpace,  containing  feven  columns  for 
their  chapel.     The  Syrians  have  under  this  their 
chapel.  The  Coptites  have  theirs  behind  the  chapel 
of  the  holy  Sepulchre.     The  vefiry  room  of  the 
Latins  is  under  their  gallery;  from  which  they  go 
into  their  little  convent,  where  they  have  conllantly 
ten  or  twelve  monks. 

On  the  i6th,  I  faw  what  I  do  not  effeem  the 
leaf!  curiofity  in  Jerufalem.  This  was  the  Pharma- 
copcea  of  the  Latins;  which,  on  account  of  the  rich 
ftores  of  Drugs  and  Medicines,  may  fafely  be 
reckoned  one  of  the  mofl  valuable  in  the  world.  It 
was  amazing  to  fee  what  quantities  of  the  dearefl 
Prugs    their   magazine  contained.     All  forts  of 

Jw  4  balfama. 


136       TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

balfams  were  to  be  found  here,  to  the  value  of  fome 
thoufand  piafters.  Here  were  feveral  pounds  of  the 
valuable  Mumia  mlneralis  from  Perfia,  vs^hich  is  fold 
at  three  ducats.  The  Indian  and  American  drugs 
come  all  from  Spain,  and  are  chiefly  given  as  pre- 
fents.  Here  is  prepared  the  Jerufalem  Balfam,  fa- 
mous in  thefe  countries,  which  is  a  preparation  made 
of  all  kinds  of  balfams,  and  a  number  of  aromaticks 
diifolved  in  fpirit  of  wine.  Of  this  they  make  yearly, 
in  the  fummer  folllice,  a  quantity  that  cofts  150 
ducats  at  Jerufalem.  It  is  very  ufeful  in  all  frefh 
external  wounds;  but  too  hot  to  give  internally. 
However,  they  give  it  in  blood-fpitting  and  con- 
tufions,  from  ten  to  twelve  drops.  The  M^hole  Phar- 
macopoea  is  valued  at  100,000  piaflers.  The  Greeks, 
Armenians,  Syrians  and  Coptites,  who  all  follow 
the  Julian  Calendar,  had  Eafler  eve  on  the  17th.  At 
two  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  we  went  to  fee  the  fa- 
mous facred  fire ;  one  of  the  moll  remarkable  rites 
to  be  feen  at  any  place  of  divine  worfliip.  All  the 
Chrillians  of  thefe  denominations  believe,  that  on 
Eafter  eve  a  fupernatural  fire  com.es  up  out  of  the 
holy  Sepulchre,  and  this  they  call  holy  or  facred. 
They  believe,  that  their  prieils,  by  a  miracle,  call 
it  down  from  heaven  on  this  day.  One  prieft  of 
each  fe<5l  goes  down  into  the  holy  Sepulchre  at  two 
o'clock.  The  Greek  prieil  goes  into  the  innermofl 
apartment,  and  the  others  into  another  chapel,  be- 
hind that  apartment  belonging  to  the  Coptites. 
They  there  fay  prayers  by  themfelves;  and  to  thofe 
the  common  people  afcribe  the  coming  of  the  fire. 
In  the  mean  time  the  Greeks,  who  are  the  moft  dif- 
orderly  Chrillians,  ufe  various  inventions  in  the 
choir  round  the  Sepulchre;  fuch  as  the  ancients  de- 
fcribe  to  have  been  ufed  at  their  Bacchanals.  Boys 
dance  and  ilvip  about,  reprefenting  the  death  and 

refurretStion, 


TO     JERUSALEM.  137 

refurreftion,  and  praftice  a  tlioufand  other  follies 
of  which  the  heathens  would  have  been  afhamed. 
This  they  do,  at  leall  fo  they  fay,  to  w^arm  the 
earth,  that  the  fire  may  come  up  more  eafily.     At 
four  o'clock,  all  the  three  nations  began  a  procef- 
fion;  and  a  little  while  after,  a  lamp  was  brought 
out  of  the  grave,  which  they  believed  to  have  been 
lighted  by  the  facred  fire..    There  was  fuch  a  fight- 
ing with  torches  and  flambeaux,  becaufe  every  one 
was  defirous  of  lighting  his  at  the  facred  fire,  that 
it  occafioned  a  greater  and  more  deteftable  noife, 
than  is  even  heard  in  a  market  place  or  a  bear 
garden.      The   moft    entertaining    fight   was   the 
manner  in  which  the  Turks  treated  the  Greeks  on 
their  fefi:ival.  About  twelve  ftout  men  polled  them- 
felves  at  the  entrance  of  the  Sepulchre :  fome  had 
whips,  other  flicks,  wnth  which  they  laid  on  the 
crouding  multitude,  without  paying  any  regard  to 
great   or  fmall,  fpiritual  or  temporal:  they  even 
fpared  not  the  Bifiiop's  gown;  for  as  the  Greek 
Biihop  was  carried  out  on  the  Ihoulders  of  his  con- 
gregation, with  the  holy  lamp  in  his  hand,  he  re- 
ceived unexpeiledly  a  hard  flroke  with  a  flick  over 
one  hand:  yet  they  muft  bear  this  treatment;  and, 
blind  with  fuperflition,  they  fuffer  it  with  pleafure. 
If  the  Turks  did  not  ufe  precaution,  and  banifli  as 
much  as  polfible  the  diforder  that  would  enfue,  this 
fcene  would  never  end  without  fome  unhappy  ac- 
cident.    The  Franks  or  Latins  look  with  difdain  oa. 
this  fuperflition,  and  thofe  who  think  rationally  do 
the  fame;  but  here  the  ilupid  vulgar  mufl  be  kept 
in  the  fuperditious  imagination  they  have  long  had; 
befides,  it  is  certain,  that  of  1000  Pilgrims  who  now 
yearly  arrive,  not  ten  would  come,  were  it  not  for 
the  facred  fire  :  to  let  it  go  over  their  faces,  and  the 
women  over  their,  breafi;s;  to  let  fome  of  theirwhifkers 

and 


138      TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

and  beards  be  burnt,  in  order  to  fan£llfy  them- 
felves.     Another  powerful   motive  for  their  pil- 
grimages is,  to    waih   themfelves    in  Jordan,    the 
water  of  it  being  no  lefs  fan(5llfying  than  the  former 
element.     It  is  a  matter  of  confequence  to  receive 
the  facred  fire  from  the  Bifliop  firft;  and  confe^ 
quently  it  cofts  much  in  a  place  where  holy  things 
are  fo  valuable.     Some  rich  merchant,  for  the  moit 
part  an  Armenian  or  Syrian,  as  the  Greeks  are  ge^ 
nerally  poor,  offers  himfelf  for  this  purpofe.     He 
goes  into  the  outward  apartment,  and  is  the  firfl 
who  receives  from  the  Bifliop  in  his  torch,  the  fire 
out  of  the  lamp,  which  he  hath  lighted  at  the  fa* 
cred  fire  in  the  inward  room.     Three  years  ago  an 
Armenian  from  Perfia  paid  for  the  firil  fire  30,000 
fequins,  a  fum  which  perhaps  never  was  given  for 
an  anfwer  from  the  Delphian  Oracle.     I'hefe  re- 
venues are  divided  between  the  four  Convents  to 
maintain  them  ;  it  is  therefore  no  wonder  that  they 
fhould  be  foUicitous  to  keep  them  in  force.     The 
Convent  St.  Salvator  in  Jerufalem,  belonging  to  the 
Latins  or  Roman  Catholics,  is  the  moll  powerful 
iind  richefi.     This  is  pofiTefifed  by  the  Francifcaa 
Monks  of  the  Obfervation  Order;  confifling  of  all 
the  different   Catholic  European  nations.     Their 
number  is  confiderable,  but  varies  according  to  the 
times.   They  may  be  always  reckoned  1 00,  more  or 
lefs,  feculars  and  regulars.     They  remain  there  for 
three  years,  except  the  Spaniards,  who  are  per- 
mitted to  remain  fix.     They  are  governed  by  a 
Guardian,  Vicar,   and  a  Procurator:  the   fir|t  of 
thefe  is  always  an  Italian,  and  keeps  his  ofiice  fix- 
years;  the  fecond  is  a  Frenchman,  and  the  third  a 
Spaniard.     The  bufinefs  of  the  latter  is  the  mod 
important,  as  he  has  the  entire  management  of  every 
thing  that  relates  both  to  the  hqly  Sepulchre,  and 

the 


TO      JERUSALEM.         139 

the  Convent ;  on  which  account  there  yearly  pafies 
through  his  hands,  at  leail:  half  a  million  of  livres. 
Thefe  are  the  revenues  of  the  Sepulchre  and  Con- 
vent, of  which  little  remains  at  the  year's  end. 
The  revenues  arife  from  alms,  -the  greatefl  part 
from  Spain  and  Portugal ;  from  thofe  people  who 
permit  the  Barbarians  to  ruin  their  trade,  and 
plunder  their  country,  without  fupplying  one  plainer 
for  their  chaftifement ;  but  fend  yearly  a  confider- 
able  fum  to  Jerufalem,  to  be  devoured  by  Turks, 
their  inveterate  enemies,  and  by  Monks,  who  are 
ufelefs  inhabitants  in  Europe,  and  unneceffary  at 
Jerufalem,  where  they  are  of  no  fort  of  advantage  to 
Chrirtianity,  unlefs  we  can  believe  that  their  devout 
kiffing  of  ftones  has  fome  hidden  virtue.  France 
gives  a  little.  A  thinking  nation  by  degrees  leaves 
off  all  abfurd  cufloms ;  but  the  French,  fmce  the 
time  of  Louis  the  Saint,  have  fomething  elfe  to 
do  befides  making  pilgrimages  to  Jerufalem.  The 
prefents  to  the  holy  Sepulchre  from  Germany  are 
{paring.  A  German  Monk  told  me,  that  the  Canon, 
"  Primum  quiE  neceffaria,  deinde  qu?e  opus  font,'* 
prevented  works  of  piety  in  that  country.  Alms  from 
the  Polanders,  though  fuch  zealous  Catholics,  are 
quite  out  of  the  queilion,  and  few  Pilgrims  come 
from  that  country. 

On  the  1 8th,  when  I  took  leave  of  the  Arme- 
nian Patriarch,  he  ordered  me  to  be  conduced  into 
his  church  of  St.  James,  which  is  in  his  Convent,  to 
fee  its  ornaments^^  They  are  well  worth  feeing, 
being,  part  all  doubt,  the  richefl  and  mofl  valuable 
that  any  church  in  the  Eafl  can  boafl:  of,  and  perJ 
haps  equal  to  the  ornaments  of  the  largefl  and 
rieheft  Chriflian  churches  in  Europe.  They  con- 
ihl  of  Palls,  Bifhops  Mitres,  Surplice^s,  Chalices, 
Staffs,  OHenforia,  &c.     Some   of  puce  gold,  the 

others 


I40      TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

others  of  filver  gilt,  and  all  enriched  with  pre- 
cious (tones.  The  Prieft's  garments  are  all  made 
of  the  moll  magnificent  Huffs  from  India,  and  a 
great  part  of  them  adorned  with  precious  Hones. 
The  lamps  in  the  church  are  all  of  filver,  w^ell 
wrought,  and  hung  in  fine  order,  being  worth  a 
confiderable  fum.  All  tliefe  ornaments  were  this 
day  put  on  a  large  table  in  the  choir,  in  order 
to  their  being  exhibited  to  the  public  on  St. 
James's  day.  The  ornaments  of  the  Latins  arc 
magnificent,  and  perhaps  made  in  a  better  tafte; 
but  they  themfelves  own  that  the  Armenian  are 
richer.  The  Greeks  in  this  refpe£l  are  not  to  be 
compared  with  either  of  them. 

Without  the  town  I  faw,  i.  The  Sepulchres 
of  the  Kings,  cut  in  a  limeftone  mountain;  but  they 
are  not  to  be  compared  to  thofe  of  Alexandria.  The 
doors  were  of  a  harder  limeftone,  and  turned  upon 
two  hinges  in  the  nature  of  axles.  2.  The  cave  of 
Jeremiah,  where  he  wrote  his  book  of  Lamentations. 
3.  The  prifon  of  Jeremiah,  which  is  a  ditch  full  of 
water  :  here  ftood  the  coffin  of  an  ancient  King,  out 
of  which  the  Turks  water  their  horfes.  4.  St. 
Stephen's  gate,  and  befide  it  the  place  where  this 
Martyr  was  ftoned,  which  is  a  little  remarkable 
rock.  5.  St.  Mary's  Sepulchre,  over  which  is  erefted 
an  handfome  church,  but  without  ornaments.  Be- 
fore it  is  a  fine  court,  in  which  grew  a  Bird  Cherry 
tree,  or  Cherry  Laurel  (Padus)  three  fathoms 
round.  You  defcend  to  the  church,  by  a  flair-cafe 
five  fathoms  broad,  containing  forty-fix  fteps.  I 
faw  a  fanftuary  belonging  to  the  Latins,  in  which  is 
dug  a  coffin  of  marble;  and  the  graves  of  St.  Ann 
and  St.  Joachim  on  one  fide  of  the  ftair-cafe,  and  St. 
Jofeph's  on  the  other.  ■  6.  The  cave  where  Chrifl: 
fweated  blood,  cut  out  in  the  mountain,  with  fome 

thick 


TO     JERUSALEM.  141 

thick  columns  to  fupport  it,     Gethfemane,  a  place 
where  Chrift  exhorted  his  Apofties.     7.  Gethfe- 
mane, at  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  a  handfome  little 
fpot,    with  fix  old  olive-trees,    belonging  to  the 
Latins,  who  have  them  guarded  by  a  Turk.  8,  The 
fpot  where  Chrifl  was  taken,  a  corner  between  two 
walls.  9.  The  place  where  the  difciples  ilept,  when 
Chrifl  was  taken,  not  far  from  thence.  10.  The  place 
where  Thomas  received  the  girdle  of  St.  Mary,  when 
llie  afcended  into  heaven.     11.  A  narrow  road  up 
to  the  mountain  of  Olives,  full  of  flint  flones;  on 
the  top  of  which  is  a  chapel  on  the  fpot  whence 
Chrifl  afcended  into  heaven.   This  chapel  is  round, 
with  a  cupola,  has  no  ornaments,  but  a  fine  yard 
furrounded  with  a  wall.     12.  Near  this  lafl  is  the 
place  where  the  angel  appeared  to  Mary,  and  fore- 
told  her   death.     13.  A  cave   where  St.  Placida 
lived  thirty-feven  years  on  bread  and  water.     The 
Turks  have  here  a  houfe  for  prayers,  which  no 
Chriftian   dare  enter.     14.  From  a  place  on  the 
other  fide  of  the  mountain,  we  faw  the  Dead  Sea 
and  Jordan.     15.  I  faw  the  place  where  the  difci- 
ples  queflioned  Chrifl   about  the  lafl  judgment. 
16.  Where  Chrifl  taught  the  difciples  the  Lord's 
prayer :  here  was  a  ruined  column.     1 7.  A   little 
cave,  wherein  it  is  faid  the  apoflles  compofed  the 
confefTion  of  faith.    1 8.  The  Sepulchres  of  the  pro- 
phets, nearer  the  foot  of  the  mountain.    1 9.  Jehofa- 
phat'sVale  with  his  Sepulchre.  2  o.  Befide  it  the  grave 
of  Abfalom;  a  fmall  building,  with  a  conic  fleeple.  In 
this  vale  the  Jews  had  one  of  their  burial  places, 
2 1.  Lower  down  in  the  vale,  the  place  where  Chrifl 
fell,  when  he  was  taken.     22.  On  the  decline  of  a 
hill  above  the  vale,  a  cave,  wherein  the  difciples 
hid  themfelves  when  Chrifl  was  taken,  near  which 
were  two  columns.     2  3.  The  Sepulchre  of  Zachary 

the 


142      TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

the  fon  of  Barach,  cut  in  the  mountain.  24.  The 
Virgin  Mary's  well,  which  yet  hath  water,  but  it  is 
unpleafant.  25.  Hence  was  feen  on  the  top  of  the 
mountain,  on  the  left  hand,  the  remains  of  Solo- 
mon's town  Silvia,  where  he  kept  his  300  concu- 
bines.  The  houfes  are  now  inhabited  by  indigent 
peafants.  26.  An  old  pool,  wherein  it  is  faid  the 
blind  man  wafhed  himfelf.  27.  The  tree  where 
Ifaiahwasfawed  afunder.  (Morus  alba)  a  white  Mul- 
berry tree,  flood  here  in  blolTom.  It  is  a  fable  of 
the  Monks,  that  this  bears  no  fruit.  28.  The  Well 
of  Nehemiah,  where  he  kept  the  facred  fire.  29.  I 
likewife  faw  the  grotto  on  a  rifmg  ground,  where 
the  feven  apoftles  lay  hid.  30.  Pafled  by  Porta 
Aurea,  which  was  walled  up,  and  returned  over 
Mount  Sion. 


T  O 


TO     BETHLEHEM.        14^ 


TO     BETHLEHEM. 


I  WAS  determined  to  fee  Bethlehem,  and  there- 
fore received  from  the  Governor  an  officer,  and 
from  the  Procurator  a  Monk,  to  condu(51:  me :  with 
thefe  I  fet  out  from  Jerufalem  the  19th  in  the  morn- 
ing. The  country  was  at  firll  pretty  level,  and  the 
earth  till'd  and  fown  with  corn;  befides  which,  fome 
plantations  of  tobacco  prefented  themfelves  to  our 
view.  When  we  had  reached  half  way,  I  was  Ihewii 
the  place  where,  it  is  faid,  Elias  flept,  when  the 
angel  revealed  himfelf  to  him.  It  was  an  oblong 
pit  in  a  rock,  the  length  of  a  man,  ftiaded  by  an 
dive-tree.  I  know  not  whether  the  prophet  found 
this  rock  cut  out  in  the  manner  it  now  is,  or  whether 
the  people  of  thefe  latter  ages  have  cut  out  this 
kind  of  a  bed,  to  give  the  ftory  a  better  appearance 
of  truth :  but  whatever  it  be,  the  place  was  very 
convenient  to  fleep  in.  The  Greeks  have  on  the 
left  hand,  near  this  place,  an  old  Convent,  bearing 
the  name  of  the  prophet  Elias,  which  they  fre- 
quently vifit ;  but  the  Latins  do  not.  Direftly  be- 
fide  it  they  fliew  a  grave,  faid  to  be  Rachel's :  this 
is  an  ancient  ftrufture,  large  and  well  built,  with  a 
dome  over  it.  The  other  half  of  the  way,  the 
country  was  ftony  and  uncultivated,  and  produced 
tittle  elfe  befides  fome  olive-trees;  and  the  befl  of 
thefe  were  deft royed  fome  years  ago,  in  a  tumult 
I  the 


144      TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

the  Bethlehemites  had  amongfl  themfelves.     After 
a  journey  of  two  hours,  we  came  to  Bethlehem  at 
nine  o'clock  :  this  is  a  large  village,  fituaied  on  a 
high  ground,  the  houfes  ruined,  and  the  inhabitants 
lawlefs;  partly  Chrlflian  Catholics,  partly   Maho- 
metans, and  all  Arabian  peafants.     I  went  to  take 
my  lodging  in  the  Latin  Convent,  which  is  large, 
well  built,  furrounded  with  flrong  walls,  fituaied 
below  the  village  on  the  left  hand.     In  this  Con- 
vent are  conflantly  ten  or  twelve  Monks.     I  was 
here  very  well  received,  and  entertained  by  the 
Superior,  a  Monk  from  Dunkirk,  who  had  been 
chaplain  in  the  French  army  when  it  took  Bergen 
op  Zoom ;  and  by  the  organift,  a  Monk  from  Thu^ 
ringia,  eighty  years  old,  found  and  healthy,  who 
had  known  and  fpoken  to  the  prefent  Archbifliop 
of  Sweden,  Doftor  Henry  Benzelius,  when  he  was 
at  Bethlehem.    I  employed  the  forenoon  in  behold- 
ing that  which  made   this  obfcure  place  famous 
throughout  the  whole  Chriflian  world ;  I  mean  the 
place  which  is  here  Ihewn,  and  faid  to  be  that  where 
Chrifl  was  born  and  laid  in  the  manger.     We  de- 
fcended  foroe  fleps  under  ground,  to  come  into  the 
cave  where  thefe  two  places  are  fliewn,  viz.  on  the 
left  hand  the  place  where  the  infant  was  born,  and 
on  the  right  where  he  was  laid  in  the  manger.  Over 
both  are  erefted  fmall  altars,  on  which  lamps  are 
kept  conitantly  burning.     Over  the  cave  is  erefted 
a  very  line  church,  of  a  particular  architeflure; 
after  which,  they  fay,  St.  PauFs  church  in  Rome  is 
built.     The  cave  is  under  the  choir.     Without  this 
church  is  another,  through  which  one  cm  likewife 
go  into  the  Convent :  this  church  is  large,  well 
built,  with  two  rows  of  fine  marble  columns.     Here 
they  alfo  iliew  the  room,  where  St.  Jerom  is  faid  to 
have  kept  his  fchool  and  chapel.    The  Latins  are 

the 


TO     BETHLEHEM.        145 

tlie  fole  pofleffors  of  thefe  holy  places  in  Beth- 
lehem ;  nor  can  the  Greeks,  though  they  have  a 
little  Convent  here,  or  other  fe6i:s,  vifit  them,  with- 
out their  permiffion.  In  the  afternoon,  we  went  to 
fee  fome  remarkable  places  on  the  other  fide  of 
Bethlehem,  where  fome  monuments  were  fliewn, 
which,  they  faid,  were  crafted  at  the  time  in  whicli 
the  Jews  were  in  their  fplendour.  We  then  fol- 
lowed the  foot  of  a  mountain,  which  lay  on  the 
right  hand.  Another  hill  extended  itfelf  towards 
the  left  fide  :  between  thefe  was  a  vale,  in  which  it 
is  fuppofed  Solomon  had  one  of  his  gardens  (Hortus 
Solomonis);  and  according  to  the  relation,  this 
fliould  have  been  his  private  garden,  of  which  he 
fpeaks  in  chap.  iv.  12.  of  his  Canticles.  The  placs 
will  well  admit  that  Solomon  might  have  formed 
a  garden  here,  though  it  is  not  by  nature  an  agree- 
able fiEuation,  being  in  a  bottom;  but  perhaps  this 
great  Prince  might  chufe  to  improve  nature  by  art, 
as  many  other  potentates  have  done.  What  feems 
mod  to  have  contributed  to  adorn  this  place,  is 
the  aqujeduft  from  the  well,  of  which  I  fliali  fpeed- 
ily  make  mention.  It  was  carried  by  this  place  to 
Bethlehem,  and  therefore  could  well  have  ferved  to 
have  watered  a  garden  on  the  way.  In  one  place 
of  the  vale,  fome  ruins  of  ancient  buildings  are  to 
be  feen.  After  two  hours  travelling,  we  came  to  the 
fpring  of  water  which  is  fhewn  under  the  name  of 
Solomon's  Sealed  Well.  This  is  a  fountain,  which 
n:0ws  up  out  of  the  earth  in  a  cave,  cut  in  a  mountain. 
The  cave  confifts  of  feveral  apartments,  all  cut  out 
and  worked  according  to  the  rules  of  art.  A  little 
below  this  fountain,  and  nearer  Bethlehem,  are  the 
three  fquare  refervoirs,  one  after  the  other;  which, 
by  means  of  a  fubterraneous  aqusedu61:,  receive  the 
water  from  the  fountain.     Whence,  in  the  days  of 

L  Solomon, 


14^      TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

Solomon,  an  aqncedu^]:  is  alfo  fuppofed  to  have  gone 
to  Jerufalem,  conveying  the  water  to  the  city,  and 
to  the  cifterns  in  the  temple.     The  water  is  yet  con- 
veyed from  hence  to  Bethlehem,  and  might  with 
cafe  be  conveyed  to  Jerufalem,  if  the  Bethlehemites, 
fworn  enemies  of  the  Hierofolymites,  would  permit 
it.     The  water  of  this  fountain  is  wholefome,  and 
not  of  the  coldeft  kind.     Not  far  from  the  fountain 
IS  an  old  caftle,  without  doubt  founded  in  the  time  of 
the  Croifades,  and  yet  in  a  tolerable  repair,  but  un- 
occupied.     On   our    return   to   Bethlehem,  I  was 
fhewn  a  mountain  of  a  conic  figure  a  great  way  on 
the  right-hand  of  us,  which  the  inhabitants  to  this 
day  call  the  Frank's  mountain,   in  memory  of  the 
Croifades;  when  the  Chriltians  left  marks  of  their 
prowefs  in  the  very  heart  of  the  country.    We  tra- 
velled by  Bethlehem;  and  a  little  on  the  other  fide, 
came  to  the  place  where  the  angel  appeared  to  the 
fhepherds :  there  is  a  cave  into  which   thofe  de- 
fcend  who  are  inclined  to  fay  their  prayers.    Whilil 
my  companions  were  doing  this,  I  had  an  opportu- 
nity of  viewing  a  kind  of  a  Plough;  here  ufed   to 
turn  up  the  earth,  on  which  I  faw  fomething  which 
1  had  never  feen  in  any  other  place,  viz.  They  fix 
a  reed  along  the  Plough-handle  to  the  Ihare;  at  the 
upper  end  of  the   reed  is  fixed  a  leather  funnel. 
The  workman,  by  this  invention,  waters  the  earth 
at  the  fame  time  he  is  ploughing   it.     Under  his 
left  arm  comes  a  pipe  from  a  leather  bag,  filled 
with  water,  which  hangs  on  his  ihoulders :  out  of 
this  he  lets  the  water  run  into  the  funnel,  which 
through  the  reed  waters  the  ground  as  he  is  plough- 
ing ;  a  compendious  method  of  watering  the  earth 
in  dry  weather.     I   lay   this  night  in  Bethlehem, 
and  next   morning,  after  I  had   botanized  in   this 
neighbourhood,  returned  to  Jerufalem.     A  difeafe 

had 


TO      BETHLEHEM.        147 

had  got  amongfl  the  Monks  in  Bethlehem,  which 
would  have  been  ftrange  to  me,  if  I  had  not  made 
myfelf  acquainted  with  ii  in  the  North.  The  Scurvy, 
w^hich  I  had  never  feen  in  Egypt,  or  the  Levant, 
had  taken  root  in  the  Convent.  The  Monks,  who^ 
were  conftantly  lliut  up  within  their  walls,  for  fear 
of  the  Arabs,  were  obliged  to  eat  fait  Mi  on  their 
fad  days,  being  at  a  diflance  from  the  fea,  and  thus 
brought  this  ficknefs  upon  therafelves.  They  were 
not  ignorant  of  the  virtues  of  Cochlearia  (Scurvy 
Grafs)  which  is  the  greateft  remedy,  in  this  difeafe, 
of  any  Art  hath  yet  difcovered;  but  it  was  not  to 
be  found.  I  therefore  advifed  them  to  try  another 
plant  of  the  fame  tribe,  which  has  been  found  of 
fervice  in  that  diilemper ;  this  was  the  Nafturtium 
aquaticum  (Water  CrelTes)  which  I  faw  growing  in 
great  quantities,  in  the  moid  places,  near  the  v/ells 
of  Solomon.  I  defired  the  Monks  afilifted  with  the 
Scurvy,  to  prefs  out  the  juice  of  this  plant,  and  drink  it 
with  milk,  which  they  did,  and  found  themfelves  re- 
lieved by  it,  as  I  was  afterwards  informed  in  Cyprus. 
Bethlehem  is  by  legacy  left  to  Mecca,  and  therefore 
is  not  under  the  Governor  of  Jerufalem's  command; 
but  is  under  him  who  governs  Jaffa,  which  likewife 
belongs  to  Mecca.  This  certainly  contributes  much 
to  the  licentious  life  the  Bethlehemires  lead,  and 
which  hath  rifen  to  a  height,  fcarce  to  be  equalled 
by  any  nation.  They  are  almo/f  in  conftant  quar- 
rels with  the  Hierofolymites,  or  with  the  inhabitants 
of  Hebron,  or  fome  other  of  the  neighbouring  vil- 
lages; and  tJ^ieir  differences  are  feldom  adjufted 
without  the  effufion  of  blood,  which  fometimes  is 
confiderable.  Five  or  fix  years  ago,  the  inhabitants 
of  Bethlehem  and  Hebron  carried  on  fuch  a  war, 
as  deftroyed  the  greateil  part  of  the  bed  inhabitants 
of  both  villages;  and  the  neighbourhood  of  Beth- 

L  2  lehem 


140      TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

Jehem  was  entirely  laid  wafte,  its  Olive-trees  cut' 
down,  and  the  ftu'mps  of  them  yet  iliewn  in  woefui 
remembrance  of  thofe  diflenfions.  The  Bethlehe-- 
mites  fcarce  ever  go  to  Jerufalem,  at  leaft  they  take 
care  not  to  come  within  its  gates,  at  a  time  they  are 
at  difference  with  the  Regency  or  inhabitants  of  it  j 
for  thefe  lad  would  foon  find  means  to  revenge 
themfelves  of  an  enemy  within  their  walls:  and  on 
the  contrary,  thofe  of  Jerufalem  mud  take  heed 
not  to  venture  too  far  out  into  the  fields,  towards 
the  fide  of  Bethlehem,  in  unpeaceaWe  times;  efpe- 
eially  as,  on  fuch  occafions,  to  be  an  inhabitant  of  Je- 
rufalem, is  fufficient  to  make  a  perfon  unhappy,  who 
hath  not  at  all  defervec  -it.  Thefe  people  have 
likewife  conftant  difiTenfions  amongfl  themfelves^ 
not  for  the  fake  of  religion,  which  in  other  places 
is  the  fource  of  many  evils.  The  Bethlehemites 
have  not  narrow  confciences  in  this  matter.  Here 
live  Chrillians  and  Mahometans,  one  with  the 
other,  without  ever  quarrelling  for  the  fake  of  re-^ 
ligion;  but  they  have  other  reafons  for  quarrelling  i 
for  example,  their  right  to  provide  Pilgrims  with 
horfes;  to  take  caffar  from  the  travellers,  of  which 
©ne  party  is  in  poffefilon,  and  the  other  would  wil- 
lingly be  fo.  Befides  this,  the  Bethlehemites,  like 
all  other  inhabitants  of  Palsefiiine,  both  Chriftians 
and  Mahometans,  are  divided  into  two  parties,  which 
are  called  the  white  and  red  enfigns,  and  who  only 
ftudy  to  fupprefs  one  another.  The  Turks  take 
advantage  of  this;  and  with  a  handful  of  men  keep 
in  fubjeftion  a  country,  whofe  inhabitants  are  at  va- 
riance, which  would  cofl  them  much  trouble  if  they 
were  united.  But  none  fuffer  more  from  thefe 
wicked  Bethlehemkes,  than  the  Monks,  their  neigh- 
bours. Thefe  would  be  happy,  if  they  were  fafe 
by  beiitg  iliut,.  up  within  the  wails  of  their  Convent ; 

but 


TO     BETHLEHEM.         149 

b^t  tliey  every  day  apprehend  being  attacked  in 
iheir  own  chambers,  by  thefe  robbers.     They  fur^ 
prife  the  Monks,  either  to  obtain  provifions,  which 
like  mod  other  robbers  they  want  continually,  or 
attack  and  force  them  to  buy  a  quantity  of  Pater? 
nofters,  models  of  the  grave  of  Chriit,  crofTes  and 
other  wares  of  this  kind,  which  is  the  only  employ 
of  all  the  inhabitants  of  this  village.    Of  thefe  they 
have  fo  large  a  flock  in  Jerufalem,  that  the  Procu= 
rator  told  me,  he  had  to  the  value  of  15^000  piaflers 
£>f  reliques  in  the  magazine  of  the  Convent ;  a  fum 
which  one  would   fcarcely  believe  could  be  exr 
pended  in  fuch  things,'  /-An  incredible  quantity  of 
them  goes  yearly  to  all  the  Roman  Catholic  counf- 
tries  in  Europe,  but  molt  to  Spain  and  Portugal. 
Great  part  is  bought  by  the  Turks,   who  come 
yearly  for  thefe  commodities.     A  number  is  yearly 
fent  by  the  Monks  in  Jerufalem,  to  be  given  as  pre- 
sents to  the  patrons  of  their  order;  and  thefe  are 
befl  paid  for  by  other  prefents  they  receive  in  re- 
turn.    No   Pilgrim   goes  away,  without   carrying 
with  hira  a  flore  of  thefe  wares ;  and  therefore  the 
making  of  thefe  holy  things  i$  a  conftant  and  certain 
employ  for  the  inhabit^ints  of  Jerufalem  and  Beth- 
lehem, with  which  they  niay  4rive  on  a  monopoly 
as  lafling  as  the  Dutch  do,  v/ith  Nutmeg  and  Cin- 
namon.    The  dexterity  and  jart  with  which  they 
make  thejfe  things,  efpecially  the  Paternoflers,  and 
a  Bull   from  the   Pope,  which   grants  indulgen? 
^ies  to  thofe  v/ho  have  Paternofters  brought  froii]L 
thefe  holy  places,  are  circumftanpes  which  add  to 
their  credit.     On  my  return  to  Jerufalem,  I  was 
feewn  the  place  where  the  angel  took  the  Prophet 
Habakuk,  and  carried  him  to  Babylon,  and  another 
place,  with   fome  ruins  of  a  building,  which  my 
guide  told  m?  w^is  the  houfe  in  which  the  Patriarch 

L  2  Jacob 


I50      TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

Jncob  dwelt.  If  the  palace  of  this  Patriarch  was 
like  thofe  mod  ufed  to  this  day  in  Palfelline ; 
namely,  a  tent  made  of  a  coarfe  rugg ;  thefe  ruins 
do  not  deferve  the  honour  of  bis  name. 

The  2ijfl,  in  the  afternoon,  I  fet  out  from  Jeru- 
falem,  in  company  with  a  number  of  Monks;  and 
had  terrible  roads  for  four  leagues  from  the  city. 
The  Convent  of  St.  Jeremiah  was  quitted  and  de- 
Ifroyed,  after  the  Monks  had  long  ago  been  mur- 
dered there.  Here  we  paid  caffar.  Ysfe  had  now  ano- 
ther view  of  the  Mediterranean  Sea,  from  the  mount- 
ains of  Judea.  This  was  a  very  hard  day's  journey, 
and  which  fcarcely  afforded  ns  a  drop  of  water  to 
cool  our  throats.    In  the  evening  we  came  to  Rama. 

The  22d,  we  faw  St.  George's  church  in  Rama; 
which  is  an  ancient  magnificent  building  under 
ground,  with  well  -  conditioned  columns,  covered 
with  a  dark  green  Mucor,  and  well  Ikuated  in  a 
handforae  place.  The  church  of  forty  martyrs  had 
likewife  been  a  fine  building  under  ground  in  its 
time,  but  was  now  ruined.  They  further  fliewed 
us  the  remains  of  a  Benediftine  Convent,  which  was 
now  turned  into  a  Mofque.  Its  magnificent  fteeple 
was  yet  preferved,  from  which  all  Judea  might  be 
feen.  The  Turks  fay,  that  thefe  forty  martyrs 
Were  forty  robbers,  who  were  puniflied  with  death, 
and  regard  them  as  faints  in  their  religion,  as  well 
as  the  PapiJfs  do  in  theirs ;  wherefore  they,  at  this 
lime,  began  the  pilgrimage,  which  they  make  every 
year  to  this  place,  in  memory  of  their  robbers. 

The  24th,  I  fet  out  early  from  Rama  ;  and  after 
three  hours  returned  to  Jaffa,  over  the  fine  and 
fruitful  plains  which  are  between  thefe  two  towns. 
Rama  is  a  fmall,  but  pretty  handfome  town,  ex- 
tremely well  fituated  on  a  fruitful  plain,  which  af- 
fords wine,  cotton,  and  corn.  Tho'  it  be  an  in- 
land 


TO       A    C    R    A.  151 

land  town,  tliey  carry  on  a  good  trade.  Here  is  a 
French  conful  to  three  merchants  houfes,  who  bay 
cotton,  both  raw  and  fpun,  aihes,  and  large  quantities 
of  foap.  llama  is  now  cliiefly  noted  for  being  the 
refidence  of  the  Turkifli  commander,  who,  under 
the  title  of  Bey,  governs  jerufalera,  Gaza,  and 
Rama,  and  to  whom  all  Chrifiiians,  as  well  as  the  fub- 
jefts  of  the  Turkiili  emperor,  who  go  to  and  from 
Jerufalem,  muif  pay  a  duty  of  fom^e  piaflers,  which 
makes  a  fine  revenue.  The  Franks  ak:>ne  are  ex- 
empted from  this. 

The  30th,  in  the  forenoon,  I  came  to  the  Town  of 
Acta,  after  a  voyage  of  twenty-fix  hours  from  Jaffa. 
We  went  with  the  little  boat,  which  brought  us  over, 
into  the  harbour,which  is  a  gulf  between  the  mountain 
Carmel  and  the  mountain  of  Galiiea,  at  the  foot 
of  which  Acra  is  lituated,  clofe  by  the  entrance  of 
the  gulf.  Here  lay  three  French  merchant  fliips, 
which  is  the  only  nation  that  continues  to  trade  to 
this  port,  and  fetch  its  goods,  of  which  the  greateft 
part  confift s  in  raw  cotton,  which  fome  years  amounts 
to  ten  thoufand  bales,  each  bale  of  a  cantar  of  one 
hundred  rottoli  of  the  country.  I  took  lodgings  at 
the  convent  of  the  French  monks,  which  is  the  only 
European  houfe  in  this  town,  and  depends,  as  all 
others  in  Syria  and  Egypt  do,  on  the  Spaniards  In 
Jerufalem  ;  I  was  here  treated  to  my  entire  tatisfac- 
tion.  The  board  and  lodoins;  in  the  other  convents 
of  Syria  and  Paleftine  are  preferable  to  thofe  of  Je- 
rufalem. In  the  afternoon  I  paid  a  vifit  to  the  French 
vice-conful,  who  is  here  for  the  Hike  of  five  merchants, 
who  carry  on  a  trade  to  Marfeilles.  Towards  even- 
ing I  went  about  the  town,  to  fee  the  moll  remark- 
able things  here  :  I  mean  the  work  which  a  com- 
mon Arab,  who  hath  lately  ufurped  the  govern- 
ment of  Galilee,  ordered  to  be  made  round  the 
■     •  L  4  town, 


152      TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

town,  confilling  of  a  wall  four  fathoms  Iiigh,  fur^ 
niihed  with  two  llrong  gates ;  he  began  a  baftion  at 
one  corner  without  the  wall,  and  a  palace  within. 
This  work,  compleated  by  a  rebel  in  fix  months, 
the  Turkifh  emperor  would  not  be  able  to  perform 
in  any  place  of  Syria,  of  which  he  is  lord,  within 
fome  hundred  years.     Since  the  knights  of  Malta 
became  mafhers  of  Acra,  nobody  ever  thought  of 
fortifying  the  place,  tho'  it  is  the  key  of  Gahlee. 
This  Arab  made  ufe  of  the  remains  of  their  ruin'd 
palace  and  caftlep  and  dug  up  the  fubterraneous 
ruins  of  old  Ptolemais  for  the  continuation  of  his 
work ;  and,  according  to  the  common  report,  fome  of 
the  buried  treafures'  he  fopnd  were  of  ufe  to  hiiiji 
in  accomplifhing  his  defign.     A  broken  granite  co- 
kimn,  of  the  thicknefs  of  the  Egyptian,  was  lliewn 
me,  which  had  been  dug  up  out  of  the  ruins.    Thus 
^'as  this  flone  fo  highly  valued  by  the  ancients  as 
tp  have  been  formerly  carried  as  far  as  Syria  to 
adorn  their  fplendid  buildings.     Over  one  of  the 
new  city  gates,  which  leads  to  Nazareth,  the  Arab 
had  ordered  two  lions  to  be  cut  in  ft  one,  which 
are   very   bad,    being    done    by    a    Mahometan, 
who,  by  his  religion,  is  forbid  to  fuffer  images  ; 
but  the  Turks  of  this  age  are  not  fo  fcrupulous  iii 
the  lefs  material  points  of  their  religion,  as  their 
anceflors.     In  returning  to  our  lodgings,  we  went 
into  the  fubterraneous  vaults  of  the  convent  of  St. 
Clara,  poiTeffed  by  the  Francifcan  monks  before 
the  Turks  took,  it,  and  is  faid  to  have  been  founded 
by  a  lady,  who,  to  avoid  her  cbflinate  lovers,  had 
the  courage  to  cut  off  her  nofe,  and  live  in  folitudq 
with  a  mangled  face,  rather  than  pleafe  herfelf  and 
others  with  fuch  an  one  as  nature  had  given  her. 

The  2d  of  May,  I  travelled  from  Acra  to  Naza- 
reili.     Without  the  tovvu,  on  the  right  hand,  we 

met 


TO     -N  A  Z  A  R  E  T  H.  153 

met  with  the  remains  of  a  town  formerly  built 
here.     Round  thefe  the  fields  were  in  tillage,  from 
.whence  they  were  carrying  home  the  barley,  which 
in  this  country  ripens  about  this  time.     To  thefe 
ruins  belong  the  large  mounts  that  are  feen  here, 
over-grown  with  grafs,  which  are  faid  to  be  artifi- 
.cially  made,  for  the  better  building  the  town.     We 
afterwards  came  to  a  field,  about  three  miles  wide, 
which  bears  every  year  a  quantity  of  good  cotton, 
and  had  now  been  lately  fown,  as  this  was  the  pro- 
per time.     We  travelled  by  a  village  called  Rama, 
inhabited  by  Chriflians.     On  the  other  fide  of  it 
the  country  confided  of  fmall  hills,  or  rather  rifmg 
grounds,  covered  with  plants,  and  fine  vales  between 
them.     At  the  end  of  this  field,  the  country  round 
us  confifted  of  the  fineft  groves  of  the  eailern  Oak 
(Quercus  coccifera)  whofe  fiy,  called  Tenthredo,  had 
made  its  hard  gaul,  in  which  lay  its  caterpillar,  with 
.others  dried  up,  which  the  infefts  had  already  quitted. 
The  country  here  was  like  our  Eafi:  Gothia.     From 
thefe  groves  we  came  into  the  fine  plains  of  Zebu- 
Ion,  above  three  miles  long  and  three-quarters  broad, 
yet  quite  uninhabited,  but  not  uncultivated,  as  the 
greatefi:  part  of  it  is  planted  with  cotton.     We  tra- 
velled direfdy  acrofs  it,  and  on  entering  it  we  met 
with  one  of  the  wells  of  the  Ifraelites,  deftroyed^ 
and  at  the  end  a  fine  grove  of  Oak,  in  which  were 
alfo  fome  Beech  trees  (Fagus  fylvatica);  here  we 
found  fmall  hills  and  vales,  which  we  followed  to* 
Safari,    a  village    ii;habited  by  .Greeks.     In  this 
place  the  monks,  who  were  with  me,  alighted,  to 
honour  the  ruins  of  an  old  defiiroyed  church,  which 
is  faid  to  have  been  built  in  memory  of  the  mother 
of  St.  Anne  and  St.  Mary,  who  are  reported  to  have 
dwelt  here.     The  inhabitants  breed  a  great  number 
pf  bees,  to  their  confiderable  advantage,  and  with 

little 


154      TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

little  trouble.  They  make  their  bee-hives  of  clay, 
four  feet  long,  and  half  a  foot  diameter,  as  in 
Egypt :  They  lay  ten  or  twelve  of  them  on  one- 
another  on  the  bare  ground,  without  any  thing  un- 
der them.  Over  every  ten  they  build  a  little  roof, 
which  makes  their  bee-hives  exaftly  refemble  the 
dog-kennels  of  our  peafants.  They  wall  up  the 
opening  of  thofe  in  which  the  bees  are  at  work,  and 
leave  only  a  little  hole  for  them  to  go  in  and  out. 
In  the  empty  hives,  the  opening  is  not  fliut.  The 
dwellings  of  the  people  were  miferable  huts,  made 
of  clay  walls,  in  which  they  lay  on  the  bare  ground; 
they  have  a  little  entrance  on  the  earth,  and  no 
windows,  or  other  openings,  except  a  hole  for  the 
fmoak  to  go  out.  A  little  diftance  from  this  vil- 
lage, we  came  to  a  foil  quite  different,  being  hilly 
and  full  of  hard  lime  ftones,  fuch  as  we  met  with 
in  Judea,  of  which  this  is  a  continuation  under  the 
fame  meridian  thro'  feveral  countries,  which  is  fome- 
what  remarkable.  The  fame  plants  are  feen  here 
as  in  Judea,  which  before  were  not  very  common, 
and  fome  fcarce  to  be  feen,  as  KaH  fruticofum.  We 
came  to  Nazareth  at  three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon, 
after  having  made  an  agreeable  journey,  in  a  coun- 
try where  there  are  good  roads  and  one  may  travel 
in  fafety. 

As  foon  as  we  were  come  to  Nazareth  in  the 
evening  of  the  2d,  we  went  to  fee  its  remarkable 
places.  Thefe  are,  a  handfome  church  in  the  con- 
vent over  the  fan^luary  of  this  place,  where  the 
angel  announced  the  Virgin  Mary's  pregnancy ; 
a  itone  in  the  village  without  the  convent,  which 
the  monks  faid  was  the  table  of  Chrift,  at  which 
he  eat  feveral  times  with  his  difciples.  This  is 
large,  flicks  faff  in  the  ground,  and  its  upper  fur- 
face  declines:  it  is  made  of  the  hard  lime-flone 

common 


TO      NAZARETH.  155 

common  in  Judea.  This  flone  is  faid  to  have  been 
formerly  covered  with  iron  phttes.  the  marks  of 
which  are  yet  to  be  feen.  We  went  from  thence 
to  a  little  church,  which  they  fay  (lands  in  the  place 
where  formerly  a  fynagogue  flood,  in  which  Chrift 
frequently  preached  when  he  was  in  Nazareth. 
It  once  belonged  to  the  Greeks,  but  was  taken  from 
them  by  the  Arabians,  who  intended  to  convert  it 
into  a  mofque  :  they  fold  it  however  to  the  Latins 
for  a  certain  fum  of  money,  and  it  is  now  in  their 
poiTeilion.  This  is  a  late  tranfaftion  ;  fo  that  they 
have  not  yet  had  time  to  embelliili  it,  but  intend 
foon  doing  it.  We  next  were  fliewn  the  place  where 
the  houfe  of  Jofeph,  the  fofler-father  of  Chrift, 
hath  flood,  on  which  now  ftand  the  remains  of  an 
Arabian  hut.  The  place  itfelf  is  poiTeiTed  by  Ara- 
bians, who  have  good  houfes  there.  Below  the  vil- 
lage, and  near  the  road  to  Acra,  is  a  good  well  be- 
longing to  the  village,  where  the  monks  fay  Ave- 
Maria,  for  feven  years  indulgence,  as  the  Holy 
Mother  is  faid  to  have  fetched  her  water  here. 
W^e  went  from  thence  to  a  line  large  cave,  made 
by  nature  in  a  hard  lime-ftone  mountain,  which  is  a 
fine  natural  curiofity,  but  is  not  holy.  Nazareth 
is  at  this  time  a  large  village,  fituated  in  a  vale, 
with  frone  houfes  in  the  manner  of  the  country, 
flrong  and  well  built,  but  far  from  elegant.  This  vil- 
lage can  raife  100  fighting  men,  in  cafe  any  troubles 
ariie  between  the  Galileans  and  Samaritans,  which 
frequently  happens.  The  inhabitants  confift  of 
Arabians  and  Chriftians,  the  greateil  part  papifts, 
and  fome  few  Greeks,  who  have  only  one  prieft. 
The  convent  of  the  Francifcans  is  large,  furrounded 
with  itrong  Wcdls,  is  rich,  and  hath  conftantly  from 
fifteen  to  twenty-two  monks,  which  have  more  pri- 
vilege here  than  in  any  other  place  in  the  Holy 

Land, 


1^6      TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

Land,  or  perhaps  in  the  Eail.  They  farm,  from 
the  Ba{haw  of  Seyde,  Nazareth,  and  two  other  vil- 
lages in  Galilee,  for  4000  piaftres  per  annum. 
For  this  they  are  at  liberty  to  tax  the  inhabitants 
of  the  villages,  and  punifli  the  wicked.  In  a  word, 
to  govern  both  Arabians  and  Chriflians  as  they 
think  proper;  for  which  purpofe  they  have  an 
Arabian  officer  of  the  village  under  them,  who  gc 
yerns  by  their  direftion. 

We  travelled  from  Nazareth  to  Mount  Tabor  : 
it  is  a  fine  country,  and  confifts  of  forefls,  through 
which  we  could  fee  Samaria  on  our  right  upon  ^ 
hill,  a  little  on  this  fide  of  Mount  Tabor.  Below 
this  hill  is  the  road  that  leads  from  Egypt  to  Dar 
mafcus  and  Gonftantinople,  which  is  large,  broad, 
and  fine.  After  travelling  two  hours  we  began  to 
afcend  Tabor,  cooled  by  its  agreeable  dew,  and  re- 
freflied  by  the  milk  of  its  fine  herds  of  goats.  |t 
was  a  league  up  to  the  top,  flony  and  difficult; 
but  we  did  not  however  difmount.  On  the  top  of 
it  was  a  fine  plain,  the  fides  of  it  rocky :  between 
thefe  rocks  are  the  remains  of  a  church  and  build- 
ing, ere£led  in  former  times  by  the  Chriflians,  where 
pilgrims  pay  their  devotion.  We  could  hence  fee 
the  beamy  of  Galilee  and  Samaria.  We  defcended 
jhe  hill  after  reniaining  there  fix  hours,  when  I  ha4 
botam?;eQ  there.  The  bill  is  round,  hath  no  pre-r 
cipices,  is  about  four  leagues  in  circumference,  beaU'? 
tiful  and  fruitful.  On  leaving  the  mount  we  came 
10  a  little  plain,  at  the  end  of  which  was  a  Chai:i 
with  a  market-place,  where  the  Arabs  fold  an4 
bought  hprfes,  ajTes,  camels,  oxen,  fheep,  goats,  &:c. 
|iere  began  the  plain  of  Efdralon,  and  extended 
three  miles  to  a  village.  At  the  entrance  of  it  v/e 
could  plainly  fee  Tabor  and  Hermon.  On  this  exf 
tenfive  plain,  but  little  of  which  is  cultivated,  the 
I  .^r^bs 


TO       TIBERIAS.  157' 

Arabs  fometlmes  light  their  battles ;  and  the  prefect 
rebel  Daker  flood  for  feveral  months  the  Balhaw  of 
Seide.  I  met  here  an  Arabian  huntfman  with  a 
falcon  and  fine  dogs.  The  Arabs  are  great  profi- 
cients in  what  relates  to  hunting.  On  leaving  Ef- 
dralon,  we  came  to  almofl  naked  hills  and  dales,  hav- 
ing only  fhrubs  of  Chrifl's  thorn  on  them.  With  this 
plain  began  the  lingular  flone,  of  which  the  Tibe- 
rian  mountains  confifl.  We  had  much  trouble  with 
our  horfes  in  this  plain,  being  tormented  by  flies 
and  heat.  We  refrefhed  ourfelves  in  the  fhade  of 
a  Fig-tree,  under  which  was  a  well,  where  a  fhep- 
herd  and  his  herd  had  their  rendezvous,  but  with- 
out either  houfe  or  hut.  Here  I  beheld  the  oxen 
and  cows  cf  Galilee,  which  conftitute  a  remarkable 
part  of  this  country's  riches.  They  are  all  of  a 
very  fmall  fize,  which  fhews  that  the  climate  does 
not  occalion  any  difference  in  the  growth  of  thofe 
animals;  mountainous  countries  and  low  lands 
fooner  occalion  a  difference  in  fize ;  in  the  former 
the  black  cattle  are  lefs  than  in  Gahlee,  and  in  the 
latter  larger,  as  in  Scania  and  Egypt.  The  fame 
profpeft  of  hills  and  plains  continued  till  we  came 
to  Tiberias,  where  we  arrived  towards  evening  be- 
fore fun-fet.  We  went  immediately,  without  alight- 
ing from  our  horfes,  to  the  hot  baths  in  this  town, 
where  I  tarried  long  enough  to  defcribe  the  water, 
itsfediment,  and  the  places  that  were  adjacent.  We 
took  our  night's  lodging  in  an  old  church  built  over 
the  place,  where  Peter  received  the  important  keys, 
which  his  fuccelTor  alTerts  are  in  his  poffelTion ;  we 
eat,  drank,  and  llept  in  this  holy  place,  which  now 
has  fcarcely  a  roof,  and  ferves  the  Arabians  only 
for  a  liable.  We  afterwards  went  out  to  the  Ihore 
of  the  fea  Tiberias,  and  had  fome  fifh  brought  us 
by  the  fiihernjea.    I  thought   it  remarkable,  that 

the 


158     TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

the  fame  kind  of  fiili  fliould  here  be  met  witli  as  In 
the  Nile,  Charmuth,  Silurus,  Bccnni,  Mulfil,  and 
Sparus  GalilcEus.  The  water  in  this  river  is  fweet, 
but  not  very  cold,  though  wholefome. 

Tiberias  is  a  little  town,  half  of  it  inha]:)ited 
by  Arabs,  who  are  the  maflers,  and  the  other  half 
by  Jews,  who  pay  taxes  to  the  former.  The  Chri- 
ftians  have  no  liberty  here ;  and  if  there  are  fome 
few,  they  arc  not  known  to  be  fuch.  The  town 
has  lately  been  fortified  by  the  frequently-nient- 
tioned  Scheck  Daker,  who  was  born  here,  and 
reigns  alfo  fupreme  lord.  He  has  ordered  the  town 
to  be  furrounded  with  a  wall,  and  built  a  callle  on 
a  hill  without  the  town.  He  had,  however,  no 
more  than  fix  fmall  iron  cannon  in  this  work  of  de- 
fence ;  but  he  ufed  another  method,  more  antient 
than  cannons  for  defending  forts.  He  ordered 
loofe  (tones  to  be  laid  on  the  top  of  the  wall  four 
feet  high,  which,  in  cafe  of  a  fiege,  might  be  rolled 
down  and  crufli  the  befiegers.  Since  he  has  fortified 
the  town,  it  has  been  once  befieged  by  the  Bafliaw 
of  Seide,  the  marks  of  which  are  yet  to  be  feen  in 
the  wall,  but  it  was  not  taken. 

The  4th  early  we  left  Tiberias,  and  faw  on  the 
right  Bethulis  or  Saphet,  whither  the  Jews  go  out 
of  devotion  to  fpend  their  vacant  time.  We  after- 
wards followed  the  broad  ridge  of  a  hill  which  had 
dales  on  each  fide.  On  the  right  hand  fide,  about 
a  league  from  Tiberias,  the  place  was  fliewn  where 
Chrill  gave  food  to  4000  men  ;  on  which  lay  a  heap 
of  ftones  in  memory  of  it.  Farther  on  we  faw  the 
mountain  or  hill  where  Chrill:  preached  his  fennon  : 
it  is  high,  ftony,  and  rugged.  At  the  foot  of  the 
mountain  the  Arabians  had  an  encampment ;  to 
thefe  I  went  to  fee  the  manner  of  living  of  thefe 
uncivihzed  people.  Their  women  are  hideous ;  half 

their 


TO      A    C    R    A.  159 

their  faces  are  bare  ;  they  are  drelTed  Uke  the  men, 
and  have  their  under  Hp  painted  blew.  They  made 
butter  in  a  leather  bag,  hung  on  three  poles  erefted 
for  the  purpofe,  in  the  form  of  a  cone,  and  drawn 
to  and  fro  by  two  women.  We  were  next  fhewn 
the  place  where  thedifciples  plucked  the  ears  of  corn; 
here  was  alfo  a  heap  of  ftones.  We  now  met  with 
limeflone  and  Olive-trees,  which  are  not  to  be  feen 
farther  in  the  country  of  Galilee. 

Cana  in  Galilee  is  a  httle  village,  inhabited  by 
Roman  Catholic  Greeks :  the  church  over  the  place 
where  Chrifl  changed  water  into  wine  has  nothing 
left  but  the  walls,  being  without  a  roof.  The  vef- 
try  room  is  inhabited  by  peafants.  In  the  church 
of  the  village  they  {liew  a  ftone  velTel,  three  feet 
in  diameter,  and  half  a  foot  in  height,  which  they 
fay  is  one  of  the  jars  filled  with  water,  that  was 
changed  into  wine,  and  a  ikull,  which  they  revere 
for  that  of  St.  Athanafms. 

The  5th,  in  the  morning,  we  went  out  to  fee  the 
hill,  from  which  the  inhabitants  of  Nazareth  were 
for  throwing  down  Chriil  when  he  preached  to 
them.  This  is  a  high  ftony  mountain,  fituated  fome 
gun-ihots  from  Nazareth;  confiding  of  the  hme- 
ftone  common  here,  and  full  of  fine  plants.  On 
its  top,  towards  the  fouth,  is  a  deep  rock,  which  is 
fa  id  to  be  the  fpot  for  which  the  hill  is  famous  :  it 
is  terrible  to  behold,  and  proper  enough  to  take 
away  the  life  of  a  perfon  thrown  from  it.  Jaffa  is . 
a  village  comprehend-ed  in  the  number  of  thofe  the 
monks  rent ;  thither  we  went  in  the  afternoon. 
The  monks  make  devout  journies  hither  in  reve- 
rence to  the  place,  where  they  fay  ^ebedee  lived  : 
they  Ihew  it  in  a  garden  full  of  pomegranates  and 
Fig-trees,  which  the  monks  have  planted  here  ;  and 
it  was  the  only  one  I  faw  in  Galilee,  being  agree- 
able 


i6o      TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

able  enough  on  account  of  its  pleafant  fituatiori 
and  fine  young  trees.  We  were  ftiewn  feme  ftones 
in  a  place  in  this  garden,  which  they  fay  diftin" 
guiftied  the  fpot  where  the  houfe  of  Zebedee 
flood.  But  what  I  found  moil  remarkable  at  this 
■village,  was  the  great  quantity  of  Mandrakes, 
which  grew  in  a  vale  below  it.  I  had  not  the  plea- 
fure  to  fee  this  plant  in  bloifom ;  the  fruit  now 
hanging  ripe  to  the  ftem,  which  lay  withered  on  the 
ground  j  but  I  got  feveral  roots,  which  I  found  it 
difficult  to  procure  entire,  as  the  inhabitants  had  no 
fpades,  but  a  kind  of  hoe  or  ground  axj  with  this 
they  cut  up  the  earth,  and  hurt  the  root,  which  in 
fome  plants  defcended  fix  and  eight  feet  under 
ground.  From  the  feafon  in  which  this  Mandrake 
blolToras  and  ripens  fruit,  one  might  form  a  conjec- 
ture that  it  was  Rachel's  Dudaim.  Thefe  were 
brought  her  in  the  wheat  harveft,  which  in  Galilee 
is  in  the  month  of  May  about  this  time ;  and 
the  Mandrake  was  now  in  fruit.  This  plant  grows 
in  all  parts  of  Galilee ;  but  I  never  faw  or  heard 
any  thing  of  it  in  Judea.  The  Arabs  in  this 
village  call  it  by  a  name,  which  fignifies  in  their 
language  the  Devil's  Viftuals.  I  likewife  found  in 
the  Olive-trees  here  a  Cameleon,  which  1  carried 
alive  with  me  to  Acra,  aud  learned,  as  I  carried  him 
in  the  eafieft  manner,  to  make  him  change  from 
black  to  a  fpeckled  or  yellow  colour :  the  method 
confided  in  covering  or  rolling  him  up  in  a  cloth, 
and  as  foon  as  he  then  was  taken  out,  he  was 
quite  changed. 

I  left  Acra  early  in  the  morning  of  the  14th, 
having  relied  there  for  feveral  days  after  my  return 
from  Galilee.  I  took  the  road  to  Seide,  accompa- 
nied only  by  one  horfeman.  There  is  no  occafion 
for  more  company  in  Syria,  where  the  roads  are  as 

fafe 


T  d     Galilee.         i6t 

fife  as  in  any  Chriftian  country,  efpeclally  for  a 
Frank.  We  followed  the  fea  iliore,  and  for  the 
iirft  two  leagues  had  good  roads,  and  a  fine  coun* 
try,  producing  the  common  plants,  andSalix  (Safsaf) 
which  I  had  not  feen  before,  with  an  incredible 
quantity  of  Wormwood.  We  relied  at  a  rivulet  un- 
der a  fig-tree,  the  leaves  of  which  were  covered  with 
the  little  \vhite  Maxh;  called  Phalsena  gregaria. 
Here  began  the  terrible  mountains,  over  which  we 
travelled  for  feveral  hours,  fbmetiines  on  foot,  at 
other  times  on  hcrfeback.  Thefe  flioot  forth  three 
greijLt  points  into  the  fea,  one  of  which  is  by  the 
feamen  called  Cape  Blanc  from  the  white  lime-^ftone, 
of  which  all  thefe  mountains  confift.  On  this  is  an 
old  caille,  fallen  to  ruin  fmce  the  Maltefe  left  this 
country :  there  are  feveral  of  them  to  be  feen  on 
this  coad.  On  the  other  fide  of  this  mountain,  the 
road  was  exceedingly  bad,  but  pleafant  on  account 
bf  the  many  plants  which  grew  hei'e.  Having  paiTed 
the  firft  hills,  we  got  a  fine  road  along  the  fea 
iliore.  I  was  now  very  near  the  fea,  and  could  not 
refrain  from  going  on  the  (hore  to  look  for  natural 
curiofities ;  but  the  terrible  heat  which  flruck  m.e, 
occafioned  by  the  redoubled  force  of  the  fun-beams 
near  the  fea,  made  my  flay  very  fliort.  This  was 
the  mod  dangerous  place  I  had  been  in  for  a  lono- 
time;  If  I  had  not  foon  drawn  near  the  mountain 
into  the  fliade,  I  fnould  have  paid  dear  for  my  cu- 
riofity ;  for  my  head  began  to  fwim,  and  my  legs 
failed  me,  when  I  relied  myfelf  comfortably  under  a 
Bay  tree  (Laurus)  which  I  obferved  to  grow  here, 
and  not  in  Galilee  and  Judea.  In  one  place 
of  this  level  road  we  came  to  a  fpring  of  water, 
where  we  paid  caffar ;  and  in  another  I  faw  fome 
few  ruins  of  Scanderette,  one  of  Alexander's  magni- 
ficenr  cities :  it  was  entirely  deilroyed,  and  even'the 

M  place 


i6z       TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

place  uninhabited.    A  Rnbus  (bramble)  grew  in  the 
ruins,  which  I  had  not  feen  before.     The  hills  com- 
juenced  again,  through  which  Alexander  the  Great 
made  a  road  for  his  army  to  pafs.     We  followed 
this  road  above  half  an  hour ;  it  was  of  different 
breadths,  from  half  a  fathom  to  three  fathoms   in 
fome  places.     This  was  a  labour  which  required  an 
Alexander  to  accomplifh.     It  is  certainly  one  of  the 
moll  advantageous  places  in  the  world  to  obfl:ru£l 
the  paiTage  of  an  army  ;  for  on  one  fide  are  inac- 
ceiTible  rocks,  and  on  the  other  the  great  ocean, 
whofe  fhores  are  fortified  with  perpendicular  hills, 
by  which  there  is  no  efcaping.     At  four  o'clock  in 
the  afternoon  we  came  to  the  moil  remarkable  place 
on  this  road,  viz.  the  famous  wells,  which  are  by 
travellers  called  Solomon's,  from  which  Tyre  for- 
merly received  water  through  an  aqua2du6i-.     They 
are  three,  all  cut  out  in  a  mountain  of  fand-flone,  at 
the  diflance  of  a  gun-fliot  from  the  fea.     Tv.'o  of 
them    are  fquare,  one  fituated   below    the    other, 
each  of  about  fix  feet  fquare.     The  third  is  the 
moft  remarkable  :  this  is  round,  and  is  at  lead  loo 
feet  in  diameter  :  it   hath  two  outlets,  each  con- 
fifling  of  a  narrow  channel,  to  which  the  water 
runs  through  two  round  apertures,  and  falls  into  a 
fmall  bafonj  from  this  place  the  water  at  prefent 
ferves  to  turn  fome  mills;  but  it  formerly  ran  into 
the  aquaeduft,  cut  out  in  the  fand-ftone  hill,  which 
carried  the  water  for  the  fpace  of  two  leagues  to  Tyre ; 
the  remains  of  this  being  ftill  to  be  feen.  The  infide 
of  the  ruins  of  this  ac]uacduGl:  is  covered  with  a  flalaft- 
,  ite,  fuch  as  is  to  be  found  in  the  eaftern  aqua:?dufts, 
having  been  there  depofited  by  the  water  :  this  is  a 
noble  piece  of  antiquity,  the  work  of  a  great  king, 
.  and  the  remains  of  a  potent  people.  They  knew  not 

whence 


TO       A    C    R    A.  162 

whence  the  water  came,  which  conflantly  fills  thefe 
refervoirs;  but  I  naturally  conclude,  that  it  comes 
from  fubterranean  fprings,  and  rifes  in  their  hot* 
toms.  The  refervoirs  are  furrounded  with  various 
plants,  large  trees  of  Salix  Safsaf,  a  quantity  of 
Ricinus  andVitex  Agnus  Caftus.  A  number  of  the 
common  little  Pifmires  were  at  work  in  the  wallj 
and  if  Solomon  hath  ever  travelled  this  way,  he 
might  have  had  an  opportunity  of  making  his  obfer* 
vations  on  thefe  animals.  We  followed  the  fea 
Ihore,  which  here  had  formed  a  little  plain,  and 
after  travelling  two  hours,  came  to  Tyre,  now 
called  Zur,  where  we  lay  all  night.  None  of  thefe 
cities,  which  formerly  were  famous,  are  fo  totally 
ruined  as  this,  except  Troy.  Zur  now  fcarcely  can 
be  called  a  miferable  village,  though  it  was  formerly 
Tyre,  the  queen  of  the  fea.  Here  are  about  ten 
inhabitants,  Turks  and  Chriftians,  who  live  by  fifli- 
ing.  Time  has  in  feveral  places  left  pieces  of 
broken  walls,  in  teflimony  of  the  magnificent  flruc- 
tures  with  which  this  city  was  once  adorned.  Of 
thefe  I  faw  fome  fine  pieces  of  marble,  porphyry 
and  granite.  Zur  might  yet  be  in  a  much  better 
condition  than  it  is.  Its  harbour,  which  is  doubt- 
lefs  tQ  be  prefered  both  to  thofe  of  Acre  and 
Saide,  might  contribute  towards  it.  The  French 
merchant  lliips  frequently  find  flielter  here  in  the 
winter  feafon,  when  they  cannot  have  it  elfewhere* 
The  reigning  Scheck  Daker  in  Acra  has  deter- 
mined to  erecl  a  magazine  here  for  the  reception  of 
cotton,  and  houfes  for  merchants,  which  might  coij- 
tribute  towards  bettering  the  condition  of  this  now 
Wretched  place  :  he  would  at  leaft  do  fome  fervice 
to  travellers,  who  are  now  indeed  very  badly  ac- 
commodated here.  All  travellers  complain  of  Fleas 
in  Zur,  which,  they  fay,  alTemble  here  from  all  quar- 

M  2  ters 


1^4      TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

ters  of  the  world.  I  fliall  not  contradi^i:  their  afief- 
tions.  This,  and  other  inconveniencies,  made  the 
lodging  fo  difagreeable,  that  I  rather  chofe  to 
mount  my  horfe,  and  travel  all  night  on  a  fine  and 
level  road,  croffed  by  feveral  brooks  and  rivers,  till 
I  came  to  Seide  in  the  morning.  Nerium  Oleander, 
which  I  had  not  hitherto  feen,  began  now  to  appear 
on  the  road  between  Zur  and  Seide. 

"We  came  to  Seide  (Sidon)  on  the  14th.  The 
gardens  in  this  town  are  the  mod  remarkable  things 
in  it,  and  in  thefe  confifl  its  riches;  wherefore  my 
firfl;  bufmefs  was  to  fee  them.  They  extend  an  en- 
tire French  mile  round  the  town,  and  contain  Pome- 
granate-trees, Apricots,  Figs,  Almonds,  Oranges,  Le- 
mons and  Plums,  in  fuch  quantities,  that  the  town  can 
yearly  furnilli  other  places  with  confiderable  car- 
p-oes  of  thefe  fruits;  but  the  mod  numerous,  and  in 
which  their  riches  chiefly  confift,  are  Mulberry- 
trees,  on  which  they  feed  an  infinite  number  of 
filk  worms.  Cordia  Sebeflen  is  a  rare  tree  in 
Egypt,  grows  wild  in  Palcefline,  is  not  feen  in  Na- 
tolia,  but  is  fo  common  in  the  gardens  of  Seide,  that 
the  bird-lime,  which  is  made  of  its  fruit,  is  one  of 
the  principal  articles  of  trade  in  this  town.  Rhus  Su- 
mach, and  a  three-leaved  Bramble  (Rubus)  grew  fpon- 
taneouily  here.  No  vine  grows  near  Seide;  but  it  is 
produced  in  confiderable  quantities  on  the  mountains 
of  Antiliban  and  Cafchevan.  Some  authors  reckon 
the  Tamarind  amongfl  the  trees  of  Seide,  but  I 
know  not  what  tree  they  miftook  for  it,  as  it  grows 
not  near  this  place,  and  not  wild  even  in  Egypt. 

The  r6th,  we  faw  the  Sepulchres  of  the  ancient 
Kings  of  Syria,  which  are  at  a  fmall  diflance  from 
rhe  town.  They  are  cut  out  in  a  Jimeftone  mono- 
tain,  and  have  their  apertures  level  with  the  earth, 
which  in  moft  i'S  fo  large,  that  one  may  enter  them 
I  with 


TO     S  I  D  O  N.  1.6$ 

With  eafe.  They  confift  of  vauks  fome  fathoms 
jiquare,  worked  in  the  mountain,  with  oblong  niches 
in  the  walls.  In  feveral  places  may  be  feen  obfcure 
remains  of  caryed  work  in  baflb  relievo,  over  the 
niches,  and  of  red  painting,  fuch  as  is  feen  in  the 
Sepulchres  at  Alexandria.  Thefe  vaults  are  of  a 
workmanfliip  much  inferior  to  thofe  of  the  Ifrael- 
ites  at  Jerufalem,  and  in  nothing  refemble  thofe  of 
Alexandria,  though  they  feem  made  after  their 
model.  A  great  part  of  them  are  now  open,  and 
ferve  as  huts  for  fliepherds,  or  dens  for  wild  beafts; 
but  it  would  certainly  be  worth  while  for  ar^  Anti- 
quarian to  fearch  along  this  hill,  to  difcover  fome 
not  yet  opened,  of  which  there  is  beyond  doubt  a 
great  number.  The  town  is  not  large,  but  has 
iome  fine  houfes  towards  the  fea  fide,  of  which  that 
of  the  French  is  the  largeft  and  handfomefl.  The 
harbour  was  ruined  by  the  famous  rebel  Emir  Fack^ 
ardin;  for  which  reafon  European  velfels  mull  an- 
chor in  the  road,  and  refort  to  the  harbour  of  Zur 
in  the  winter  feafon.  Near  the  harbour  ftands  a 
ruinous  caftle,  with  a  few  cannon  and  a  fmall  garri- 
fon.  The  town  is  governed  by  a  Balhaw  of  three 
tails,  whofe  command  extends  over  the  country  to 
Acra,  over  Galilee,  and  the  adjoining  mountains  of 
Antiliban.  The  principal  part  of  the  inhabitants 
are  Turks,  together  with  a  great  number  of  Maro^  - 
nites,  many  Papifts,  and  fome  Greeks.  The  Ar* 
menians  have  neither  church  nor  houfe :  here  there 
is  a  Francifcan  and  Capuchin  Convent  in  the  French 
Kan,  and  an  liofpital  for  the  Jefuits,  who  have 
rheir  Convent  on  mount  Libanon.  The  French  is 
the  only  nation  that  trades  hither ;  they  have  nine 
merchant  houfes  with  a  Conful,  who  has  under  him 
the  Vice-Conful  of  Acra.  Their  commerce  is  con- 
ficjerable,  in  regard  to  the  place,  and  keeps  Sidcn 
M  2  from 


X66      TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

from  falling  into  the  fame  (late  as  her  fifter  Tyre. 
They  load  yearly  twenty  and  more  velTels  for  France. 
The  goods  exported  from  this  place  confill:  chiefly 
in  fpun  cotton,  with  fome  filk,  and  amount  annually 
to  at  ieaft  a  million  of  livres.     Next  to  them  mull 
be  reckoned  the  filks,  particularly  the  fine  watered 
half-filks    which  come  from  Damafcus,    and    are 
brought  hither  in  confiderable  quantities    for  the 
French,  who  carry  them  to  Italy ;  for  they  are  pro- 
hibited in  France,  though  the  French  make  none 
equal  to  them  in  goodnefs.     Allies,  Oil  and  Galls, 
make  likewife  a  fiTiail  part  of  this  town's  produce. 
They  import  Cloths,  Spices,  Spanifli  Iron,  and  Drugs 
for  dying,  the  greatell:  part  of  which  is  fent  to  Da- 
mafcus, which  town  fuppcrts  Seide  and  Baruth,  to 
be  confidered  only  as  its  harbours.     They  receive 
alfo  a  large  quantity  of  Piafters  yearly  from  Mar- 
feilles,  which  moftly  go  to  Damafcus;   where,  as 
well  as  on  the  v/hole  Syrian  coafl,  this  coin  has  the 
greatell  circulation,  but  moll  of  all,  the  Quarter 
piailers,  called  Patines,  which  are  valued  at  nfteen 
Med.     On  the  road  from  Acra  to  Seide,  we  faw  a 
herdfman,  who  retted  with  his  herd  of  goats,  which 
was  one  of  the  largefl  I  faw  in  this  country.     He 
was  eating  his  dinner,  confiding  of  liaif  ripe  ears  of 
wiieat,  which  he  roafled  and  eat  with  as  good  an  ap- 
petite, as  a  Turk  does  his  Pillaus;  he  treated  his 
guefts  with  the  fame  difh,  and  afterwards  gave  us 
milk,  warm  from  the  goats,  to  drink,     lloailcd  ears 
of  w:hcat  are   a  very  ancient  dilh  in  tlie  Eail,  of 
which  mention  is  made  in  the  book  of  Ruth.     In- 
Egypt  fuch  food  is  much  eaten  by  the  poor,  being 
the  cars  of  M'dht  or  Turkifii  wheat,  and  of  their 
Dura,  a  kind  of  Milium.  When  this  food  was  hril  in- 
vented in  tlie  earlil;  ages  of  the  world,  art  was  in  a 
fimple  Hate  ;  yet  the-cudom  is  IHll  continued  in  fome 
nations,  where  the  inhabitants  have  not,  even  at  this 

time, 


T  O      S  I  D  O  N.  167 

time,  learned  to  pamper  nature.  After  all,  how 
great  is  the  difference  between  good  bread,  and 
half  ripe  ears  of  wheat  roafted ! 

Without  the  town, towards  the  fea  fide,  is  iliewn 
a  Sepulchre,  in  which  three  Bafiiaws  are  buried;  and 
not  far  from  thence  a  demoUflied  Kan,  where  the 
Venetians  lived  at  the  time  they  traded  tojhis  town, 
and  in  a  war  were  ail  cut  to  pieces  by  the  Turks. 
Not  far  from  the  town  is  a  well,  which  receives  its 
water  from  a  fubterranean  fpring,  like  that  of  Solo- 
mon, and  is  called  Sidon's  well ;  as  the  old  town  of 
that  name  extended  to  it,  though  it  is  now  a  league 
from  the  fea.  The  village  of  Elias-  is  one  of  the 
nearefl  to  this  town,  where  this  prophet  is  faid  to 
have  dwelt  and  performed  miracles,  efpecially  that 
with  the  widow  pf  Zareptah  ^. 

Superstition,  common  amongd  unpolifiied  peo- 
ple, has  its  principal  feat  in  the  Eaft.  I  have  par- 
ticularly found  it  amongft  thofe  who  breed  filk 
worms,  efpecially  women,  who  have,  almoft  through 
the  whole  world,  a  taint  of  the  rehgion  of  the  an- 
cient Egyptians,  as  far  as  relates  to  omens  and  fu- 
perilition.  They  believe  in  almofl:  all  parts  of  the 
Eail,  that  if  a  ftranger  fees  their  filk  worms,  all 
hope  of  fuccefs  is  loft.  This  was  the  reafon  I  could 
never  fee  any  Silk-worms  before  to  day,  the  1 8th  of 
May,  neither  during  my  flay  in  Smyrna,  nor  in  all  my 
travels  in  Natolia  and  the  Archipehigo,  where  filk 
is  produced.  There  is  a  hut  made  of  boughs  of  trees 
in  every  garden  round  Seide,  in  which  they  are  at 
this  time  fed,  grow,  fpin,  and  are  transformed.  My 
iervant,  who  was  a  daring  Armenian,  procured  me 
an  opportunity  of  entering  one  of  thefe  huts,  where 
I  contemplated  this  noble  worm,  fo  common  and 
yet  fo  much  elleemed  in  the  Eaft,  but  never  to  be 
enough  admired. 

a  I  Kings  xvii, 

M  4  The 


168      TRAVJlLS  to  the  EAST. 

The  2ill,  I  viewed  the  aqusedu^s  of  the  town, 
an  ancient  work,  and  the  nobleft  that  has  been  pre- 
ferved.  The  water  has  been  by  them  conveyed 
ti^elve  miles  from  the  hills  into  the  town,  and  is  by 
;pipes  carried  to  every  part  of  it,  which  is  not  un- 
common in  thpfe  places  pf  the  Eaft,  where  there  are 
no  refervoirs.  Near  the  town  there  is  fpmething 
furious  in  this  aquceduft.  It  jruns  on  walls  through 
great  part  of  the  town  gardens,  and  has  on  each 
iide  a  grove,  pf  all  the  different  fprts  of  trees  to  be 
i^ound  here.  In  fome  places  the  phannel  is  open, 
but  for  the  mpft  part  covered  ;  in  a  few  places  are 
ppenings  pn  both  fides,  throiigh  which  the  water 
runs  to  the  gardens,  making  pretty  cafcades,  which 
baye  an  agreeable  eifefl  amongft  the  green  trees. 


T  Q 


T  G      GYP  R  U  S. 


TO       CYPRUS. 


I  LEFT  Seide  on  the  23d  of  May,  1751,  and  at 
the  fame  time  the  Syrian  coaft,  of  which  I  could 
not  fee  any  more  for  many  reafons.  I  went  on 
board  a  fmall  French  velTel,  in  which  I  failed  to 
Cyprus.  On  the  2  8th,  we  anchored  in  the  road  oi 
Larnaco,  a  village,  where  the  European  Confuls 
dwell;  part  of  which  lies  on  the  iliore,  but  the 
greateft  part  a  quarter  of  a  league  from  it.  In  the 
former  lives  the  Conful  from  Naples ;  in  the  latter 
the  Confuls  from  France,  England,  Venice  and  Ra- 
gufa,  have  their  houfes.  I  lived  at  the  houfe  of  the 
Venetian  Conful,  who  was  alfo  Conful  for  Sweden, 
(during  the  time  I  waited  for  an  opportunity  of  con- 
tinuing my  return.  As  this  was  the  reafon  of  my 
coming  to  Cyprus,  I  had  no  notion  of  travelling- 
through  the  ifland,  for  which  this  feafon  of  the 
year  is  not  the  beft,  as  one  can  hardly  crofs  the 
ilreet  in  the  day  time,  on  account  of  the  heat,  and 
therefore  mull  travel  by  night.  The  feafon  to  bo- 
tanize was  likewife  over;  and  befides,  the  country 
affords  little  extraordinary  in  botany;  wherefore  I 
found  it  not  worth  my  while  to  make  long  excurr 
fions  in  the  country.  For  this  reafon  I  made  only 
fwo  iliortjournies  in  Cyprus.    St.  Crux,  thehighell 

moyntai^ 


I70    TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

mountain  on  the  ifland,  was  the  firll  thing  I  went 
to  fee. 

I  UNDERTOOK  this  joumcy  on  the  evening  of  the 
9th,  having  only  my  fervant  and  a  guide  with  me, 
not  being  incumbered  with  armed  companions,  who 
are  not  wanted  in  a  country  in  which  a  robbery  has 
never  been  heard  of.  We  rid  on  mules,  the  com- 
mon equipage  of  this  country,  where,  they  fay,  they 
have  the  befl  beafls  of  this  kind  to  be  found  in  the 
Levant :  wherefore  they  are  bought  up  for  Syria," 
which  in  return  fends  fmall  Horfes,  for  the  few  who 
have  a  privilege  of  riding  them.  The  road  to  the 
mountain  is  broad  and  level ;  hills  of  a  moderate 
height,  and  large  vales,  fill  the  country  round  it. 
The  mountain  confifls  of  a  ruily  liraeflone,  fatu- 
turated  with  vitriol.  In  the  vales  I  found  alfo  fome 
grey  limeftone,  pure  and  unmixed,  in  large  quanti- 
ties, in  the  dried-up  beds  of  rivulets.  In  many 
places  the  craggy  mountain  afforded  lead  and  cop- 
per ore,  and  a  quantity  of  fmall  mountain  cryftals. 
Of  thefe  flones  a  fine  fort  is  found  towards  Paphos, 
which  is  large  and  clear,  of  which  I  faw  a  fine  clufter 
at  the  French  Conful's.  They  were  fliewn  fome 
years  ago  by  a  perfon  at  the  court  of  the  Turkiili 
Emperor,  who  faid  they  were  Diamonds.  This  dif- 
covery  was  much  approved  of  by  thofe  who  knew  no 
better  than  himfelf ;  and  the  Grand  Turk  was  per- 
fuaded  he  had  within  his  dominions,  a  Diamond- 
mine.  He  therefore  fent  workmen  to  Cyprus,  to 
fetch  thefe  treafures.  They  began  to  work,  and  the 
place  was  flri«5l:ly  guarded,  but  they  left  off  in  a 
{hort  time.  Myrtle,  Pine,  Oriental  Ciftus  Ladani- 
fera,  and  Arbutus  Andrachne,  grew  altogether 
in  the  woods,  with  the  Oleander,  which  was  now 
in  bloffom.  On  this  journey  we  faw  feveral  vil- 
lages, better  built  than  they  commonly  are  in  the 
Levant.    We  went  into  one  of  them,  not  far  from 

the 


TO      CYPRUS.  171 

tlie  mountain,  after  midnight,  where  a  lliepherd 
gave  me  np  his  reJling  place,  under  an  ohve-tree,  as 
it  was  too  late  to  get  a  lodging  in  any  of  the  houfes. 
The  night  was  extremely  clear,  which  afforded  me  an 
opportunity  of  viev/ing  an  eclipfeof  the  Moon,which 
proved  almofl:  total ;  and  before  fun-rife  I  continued 
my  journey.  In  a  level  inc-lofure  beneath  the  moun- 
tain, flood  a  little  Greek  church  on  the  right  hand. 
After  we  had  paffed  it,  w^e  began  to  afcend  the 
mountain,  and  in  half  an  hour  came  to  the  top  of 
it.     The  road  v/as  good,  even  and  broad,  therefore 
we  could  ride  all  the  way.     On  the  highefc  top  of 
the  mountain  is  a  little  Greek  hermitage,  with  three 
or  four  rooms,  and  a  fmall  church.     I   there  met 
with  a  Monk,  who  quitted  his  hut  to  accommodate 
me.     I  fcarcely  believed  myfelf  in  Cyprus,  every 
thing  was  (o  different  on  this  mountain.     Inflead  of 
a  burning  heat,  almofl  enough  to  make  one  faint,  I 
was  refrefiied  with  a  moft  agreeable  cool  air.    The 
thick,  iickly,  and  I  may  almofl  fay,  poifonous  air  of 
Cyprus,  but  efpecially  of  Eamacas,  is  not  felt  here ; 
and  I  could,  by  the  eafmefs  of  my  breathing,  find 
that  I  was  come  into  a  thin  and  found  air.     When 
I  add  to  this,  -a  profpecl  of  the  fea  on  one  fide,  and 
on  the  other  the  whole  ifiand,  as  far  as  I  could  fee, 
one  may  eafy  imagine,  that  this  is  the  moil  plea- 
fant  place  in  Cyprus.     After  my  return,  1  blamed 
the  Franks,  and  was  furprifed,  that  they  who  in- 
habit the  mofl  difagreeable  and  unwlioleforae  place 
in  the  iiland,  fhould  not  furniih    therafeives   with 
fummer  houfes  on  this  mountain,  to  which  thev 
might  go  for  the  change  of  air.-     They  all  fliid,  that 
as  they  had  never  thought  of  fummer  houfes,  they 
could  not  look  out  for  a  place ;  but  that  this  would 
be   the  properell.     One   obflacle  to  m.aking  this 
mountain  an  agreeable  dwelling,  is,  the  want  of  a 

level 


172      TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

Je>vel  place  on  the  top  of  it,  which  confifls  of  no» 
j:hing  but  rocks  and  ftones,  amongfl:  which  the 
Monks  have  fcarce  found  a  httle  level  fpot  for  their 
dwelling;  but  towards  the  foot  of  the  mountain, 
numbers  of  fuitable  places  might  be  found.  Som<? 
jRione  moiTes  (Lichenes  imbricati)  were  the  only  na- 
tural curiofities  I  found  on  the  top  of  the  hill, 
which  I  have  not  feen  in  greater  varieties  and  quan* 
titles  at  any  place  in  the  Levant. 

It  is  worth  while  for  a  perfon  who  Is  in  Cyprus, 
to  fee  Famagufta,  as  it  has  formerly  been  the 
ilrongell  place  in  the  country,  and  the  moil  famous 
jn  hiflory.  I  travelled  thither  on  the  13  th,  in  com^ 
pany  wijth  an  Englilli  merchant  from  Aleppo,  and 
the  Englilli  Conful's  interpreter,  We  kept  along 
the  fea  fliore,  ar^d  travelled  alraoft  all  night,  coming 
to  the  town  before  day-break.  The  gates  are  not 
opened  before  fun-rife,  we  therefore  relied  at  the 
houfe  of  a  Greek  Deacon  without  the  town.  The 
Turks  have  the  fame  cuftom  here  as  in  Jerufalem 
and  Damafcus,  not  to  fuffer  any  Chriflian,  whether 
he  be  Frank  or  bori;  iii  the  country,  to  ride  thro* 
the  gate  of  the  town,  To  obf^rve  this  fooliih  order, 
we  alighted  at  the  Draw-bridge,  as  is  cuHomary, 
and  walked  through  the  gate,  mounting  again  within 
it.  As  foon  as  we  were  entered,  we  rid  through  all 
parts  of  the  town,  and  rouncj  the  ramparts.  Mr. 
Frudvord,  an  Englilli  merchant,  had  built  a  houfe 
jn  Larnaco,  the  finefl  and  largefl:  at  this  time  in  Cy- 
prus, wdiich  has  the  handfomefl:  and  moll  fpacious 
hall  I  faw  in  the  Levant.  We  faw  many  houfes  on 
the  road,  between  Larnaco  and  Famagufta,  which 
he  had  built  for  his  pleafure ;  but  the  greateft  pave 
pf  them  were  in  ruins.  In  Famagufta,  we  went  firft 
to  pay  a  vifit  to  the  Governor,  and  get  his  permif- 
|ipn  to  fee  the  fortrefs,     The  Governor  made  the 

fapG 


to      C  Y  P  R  tJ  S.  r;^ 

fame  appearance  as  ..the  town  and  fortrefs  do,  a  very 
mean-looking  perfon,  without  any  token  of  his  be- 
ing a  commanding  officer,  which  the  Turks  never 
fail  jQiewing,  at  lead  by  a  number  of  fervants  which 
they  keep  about  them,  if  they  have  any  money ; 
but  this,  the  poll  of  a  Governor  of  FamaguHa  wilJ 
not  admit  of.     A  Turkifli  officer  mufl  always  pay 
himfelf,  i.  e.  he  mull:  take,  right  or  wrong,  as  much, 
and  often  more  than  he  wants,  from  thofe  under  his 
command;  but   this   Governor  had  only  2  or  goo 
good  for  nothing  foldlers  under  him,  and  from  them 
little  was  to  be  got.    The  fort  has  not  been  repaired 
fmce  the  Turks  took  it  from  the  Venetians,  and  is 
therefore  ruinous.     Here  were  about  200  pieces  cf 
cannon,  which  were  taken  with  the  fort,  but  fcarcely 
one  of  them  is  fit  for  ufe.  The  garrifon  confifted  of 
about  goo  men,  of  thofe  called  Levanti :  thefe  are 
foldiers  who  ferve  in  the  fieet,  and  are  the  worll 
men  in  the  Porte's  fervice.     The  harbour  for  the 
galiies,  which  is  well  fituated,  and  defended  by  the 
fort,  was  entirely  ruined.     I  have  never  feen  fuch 
quantities  of  Aloe  vera,  as  I  faw  on  the  ramparts  of 
this  fort.   We  went  from  the  fort  to  fee  the  church 
of  St,  Sophia,  which  is  ufed  by  the  Turks  for  a 
Mofque.     It  is  of  Gothic  archite<51:ure,  large,  and 
was  once  handfome.     It  received,  fome  years  ago, 
confiderable  damages  by  an  earthquake ;  and  the 
Turks,  who  are  the  raofi:  ignorant  architects'  in  the 
world,  have  in  a  miferable  manner  repaired  it.  The 
tombs,  monuments,    and  chapels,   ere61:ed   by  the 
Chriflians,  were  entirely  demolilhed :  I  could  only 
fee  fome  epitaphs  on  the  pavement  in  the  churchy 
fome  in  Latin,  with  old  Gothic  letters,  others  in 
modern  Greek ;  and  even  of  thefe  I  could  only  fee 
thofe  neareft  the  threfliold,  which  a  Chrilliany  ac- 
cording to  the  fuperflitious  cuftom  of  the  Turks, 

muii 


174      TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

miifl:  not  pafs.  Oppofite  the  church  were  the  ruins 
of  the  palace,  formerly  inhabited  by  the  Venetian 
Governors.  Here  were  feveral  columns  of  Granite 
and  Porphyry,  and  in  feveral  places  of  the  wall 
the  Venetian  lion ;  in  fome  places  carved  in  re- 
lief, in  others  entire.  The  town  of  Famagufta  is 
now  in  a  worfe  condition  than  the  fort.  All  the 
houfes,  built  by  the  Venetians,  are  either  entirely 
demoiiflied  or  uninhabitable.  There  are  now  no 
more  than  goo  inhabitants  in  the  town,  moll:  of 
them  Turks,  who  polTefs  the  miferable  remains 
which  are  left  of  the  once  fine  and  famous  Fama- 
gulla. 

I  HAVE  always,  fmce  my  departure  from  Sweden, 
with  much  attention  examined  the  fea  birds.  I  had 
feen  many  of  them  during  my  voyage  to  Smyrna, 
but  from  that  time  they  had  beeninvifibfe  tome.  The 
firfl  I  faw  afterwards,  was  on  the  28th  towards  even- 
ing: this  was  a  little  bird,  of  the  lize  of  a  Sparrow,  of 
a  greyiili  colour,  with  a  brown  breaft,  and  white  un- 
der his  wings;  he  fometimes  fettled  on  the  fea,  and 
then  flew  up  again,  but  not  at  any  diftance  from  the 
furface  of  the  water:  it  followed  the  veflel  till  dark. 
This  bird  had  gone  out  to  fea  when  it  was  fine  and 
calm,  in  fearch  of  food,  by  catching  fome  fmall  in- 
fecls  which  fly  above  the  furface  of  the  fea.  The 
difl:ance  would  not  permit  me  fully  to  defcrlbe  him, 
but  the  infers  vv'ere  a  kind  of  fmall  Water-flies. 

The  30th,  we  failed  by  Carams  and  Chateau 
Rouge  in  Caramannia.  At  both  places  are  har- 
bours, whence  they  load  wood  for  Egypt,  which  is 
cut  in  abundance  in  the  woods  of  Caramannia.  I  was 
told,  that  in  the  former  place  a  town  was  to  be  feen 
under  water,  and  the  ruins  of  another  on  the  land. 
In  the  latter  are  the  remains  of  a  callle,  which  is  one 

of 


TO      RHODES.  175 

,t^f  the  many  founded  by  the  Maltefe  Knights  from 
Gaza,  quite  to  this  country. 

The  2d  of  July,  at  fun-fet,  we  came  in  fight  of 
Rhodes,  after  a  voyage  of  fifteen  days :  we  were 
yet  twelve  miles  from  it,  at  which  diilance  the 
mountain  St.  Catherine  appears  iirft. 

Aft  E  R  a  conftant  calm  which  had  occafioned  a  long 
and  difagreeable  voyage,  we  got  on  the  5th  in  the 
afternoon  the  wiilied-for  gale,  which  in  the  night 
carried  us  pafl  this  ifland :  during  the  gale,  we  faw 
a  number  of  Flying-fiflies,  about  two  fathoms 
above  water;  and  we  had  before  feen  a  number  of 
dolphins  fwimming  on  the  furface  of  the  fea  :  thefe 
always  are  a  fign  of  a  change  of  weather.  We 
viewed  the  town  of  Rhodes  in  the  evening  at  fome 
diftance,  with  its  fortifications,  kept  in  good  repair 
fmce  the  Turks  took  them  from  the  Knights  of  St. 
John  of  Jerufalem.  Rhodes  has  a  good  harbour, 
and  always  contains  fome  Turkilli  men  of  war. 
Here  are  alfo  velTels  built  for  the  Porte,  for  which 
purpofe  this  illand  is  very  proper,  having  plenty  of 
timber.  There  are  no  Franks,  only  a  French  Con- 
ful,  who  is  appointed  by  the  French  AmbalTador  at 
the  Porte,  in  the  fame  manner  as  other  fmall  Con- 
fuliliips.  The  iiland,  which  is  fruitful,  is  governed 
by  a  Bailiaw;  but  the  greatefl  part  of  its  inhabitants 
are  Turks,  and  fome  Greeks,  who  carry  on  the  trade 
of  the  ifland,  which  is  not  very  important,  and  con- 
fifts  in  fome  cotton,  tar,  and  fmall  fliip  rigging. 
Himia  is  a  little,  and  almoft  unknown  ifland,  di- 
rectly oppofite  Pihodes  :  we  faw  it  in  the  morning  on 
our  right  hand;  it  is  worth  notice,  on  account  of  the 
fmgular  method  the  Greeks,  inhabitants  of  the 
ifland,  have  to  get  their  living.  In  the  bottom  of 
the  fea  the  common  Spunge  (Spongia  officinalis) 
is  found  in  abundance,  and  more  than  in  any  other 

place 


as      TRAVELS  to  THE  EAST. 

place  in  the  Mediterranean.  The  inhabitants  makt' 
it  a  trade  to  fifh  up  this  fpunge,  by  which  they  get 
a  living,  far  from  contemptible,  as  their  goods  are 
always  wanted  hy  the  Turks,  who  ufe  an  incredible 
iiumber  of  fpunges  at  their  bathings  and  wailiings* 
A  girl,  in  this  ifland,  is  not  permitted  by  her  reli^ 
tions  to  marry,  before  {lie  has  brought  up  a  certain 
quantity  of  fpunges,  and  before  flie  can  give  a  proof 
of  her  agility,  by  taking  them  up  from  a  certain 
depthi 

We  had  beeri  at  fea  twenty  days,  when  on  the 
Sth  we  came  in  fight  of  Stanchio.  Our  voyage  be- 
gan to  grow  tedious.  They  never  take  much  pro- 
viiTon  oil  board  for  a  voyage  through  the  Archipe- 
lago ;  but  imagine  they  can  always  run  into  fome  of 
the  iftands,'  and  get  what  they  want.  We  had  thefe 
thoughts  at  our  departure  from  Cyprus,  with  pro- 
Tifions  for  fome  days;  and  intended  to  provide  our- 
felves  in  Rhodes,  or  Stanchio,  for  the  remaining  part 
of  the  voyage ;  but  we  were  much  diifatisfied  to  find 
ourfelves  without  water,  and  with  very  little  other 
provifion,  being  at  the  fame  time  informed,  by  a  vef- 
fel  which  met  us,  that  the  plague  raged  violently  iii 
both  the  places  We  intended  to  run  into,  and  there- 
fore were  inaccefTible.  Out  circtimflances  gave  me 
an  opportunity  of  ma:king  a  good  6bfervation.  Wc 
had  on  board  a  Dervice  (Turkilli  Monk)  who  came 
to  us,  and  complained  bitterly,-  n6t  for  want  of 
Bread,  though  he  had  been  without  it  for  feveral 
days,  but  for  fomething  more  iiecelTary  to  him  than 
Bread.  He  had  been  two  days  without  Opium,  and 
now  found  himfelf  in  a  condition  which  made  hinl 
fear  he  lliould  find  his  grave  in  the  fea.  I  with 
pity  faw  a  young  man  become  lean,  emaciated,  with 
a  trembling  body,  feized  with  w^eaknefs  and  fwim- 
inings.    This  is  the  cafe  of  thofe,  who  by  a  deftruc* 

tive 


TO     RHODES.  177 

tive  cudom,  have  made  it  necelTary  to  eat  Opium, 
which  however  is  not  fo  common  amongft  the  Turks 
now,  as  it  was  formerly.  The  ufe  of  Opium  is  now 
moftly  confined  to  thofe  who  officiate  in  religious  ce- 
remonies, or  who  would  be  ftrift  followers  of  Ma- 
homet, being  prohibited  the  ufe  of  flrong  liquors. 
The  Janiffaries  have  found  means  to  explain  the 
law,  and  admit  the  ufe  of  Brandy,  which,  they  fay, 
was  not  forbid  by  their  Prophet;  as  it  is  prepared 
by  fire,  and  every  thing  that  paffes  through  fire  is 
pure  and  clean.  Wherefore  almofl  all  the  Turkifli 
foldiers  have,  in  virtue  of  this  excellent  explanation 
of  the  law,  given  over  eating  Opium,  which  made 
them  flupid  and  trembling,  taking  to  Brandy,  which 
makes  them  mad  and  dropfical.  Our  Captain  was 
perfuaded  to  put  the  Dervice  on  fliore,  on  the  coaft 
of  Natolia,  or  LelTer  Afia,  where  he  might  find  Opium, 
fo  necefiary  to  his  fupport,  which  was  not  to  be  had 
on  board.  He  tried,  in  the  mean  time,  as  a  pallia- 
tive, to  take  an  uncommon  large  dofe  of  Venice 
Treacle,  but  without  effeft.  A  body,  ufed  to  flrong 
medicines,  is  not  moved  by  thofe  of  lefs  power.  A 
perfon,  accuflomed  to  take  Scammony,  is  not  at  all 
moved  by  Manna;  we  fometimes  fee  what  terrible ef- 
fe<Sts  Opium  hath  on  thofe  who  have  been  accuflomed 
to  take  it,  when  they  refrain  from  it.  My  fellow  tra- 
veller, Mr.  Titzyon,  who  had  been  long  an  Englifli 
faftor  at  Aleppo,  related  the  following  ilory :  a  Prince 
of  Perfia  was  accuflomed  to  take  Opium  at  certain 
hours ;  his  fervants,  on  a  journey  the  Prince  made, 
had  forgot  to  take  with  them  Opium ;  his  hour  came, 
and  he  defired  Opium,  which  was  not  to  be  had.  The 
Prince,  who  knew  what  the  confequence  might  be, 
if  he  did  not  take  Opium  at  the  accuflomed  hour,  dif- 
patched  feveral  fervants  by  different  roads,  to  fetch 
in  hafle  what  their  negleft  had  left  at  home ;  but, 

N  to 


173      TRAVELS  TO  THE  EAST. 

to  his  and  their  misfortune,  the  Prince  was  dead 
when  one  of  the  fervants  returned,  though  within 
rvvo  hours.  AnEngliQi  merchant,  who  had  long  lived 
in  Ifpahan  without  company,  took  Opium  to  pafs 
away  his  melancholy  hours.  This  pernicious  re- 
frefhment  became  at  laft  fo  neceffary,  that,  to 
avoid  any  misfortune  which  might  happen,  if  he 
were  once  to  be  without  it,  he  ordered  fmall  bags 
of  Opium  to  be  fewed  in  his  apparel  and  bed-clothes, 
that  he  might  always  have  a  fufficient  quantity 
about  him. 

We  anchored  before  Stanchio  the  12th  of  July, 
having  been  informed  that  the  plague  was  not  there, 
but  on  the  oppofite  coafl:,  and  in  the  country  of 
Natolia.  However,  to  be  more  careful,  we  did 
not  venture  on  iliore,  but  only  fent  our  boat  for 
water,  which  was  the  moll  necelTary  article  that 
we  wanted.  Stanchio  has  no  harbour,  but  the 
velTels  muft  anchor  in  the  guiph,  at  the  diftance 
of  a  cannon -fliot  from  the  lliore  between  the 
ifland  and  the  continent,  to  which  the  entrance 
on  both  fides  is  pretty  narrow ;  but  its  road  is  wide 
and  open,  for  which  reafon  veifels  feldom  anchor 
before  Stanchio  in  the  winter,  but  rather  go  to  the 
oppofite  fliore,  where  they  find  fmall  harbours  in 
the  continent,  in  which  they  lie  more  fecure.  There 
is  a  fpring  on  Stanchio,  fix  miles  from  the  town, 
which  the  inhabitants  call  the  fountain  of  Hippo- 
crates: 1  could  not  learn  whether  this  name  is  to  be 
attributed  to  the  ancient  Grecians,  in  which  cafe  it 
would  be  the  only  monument  uov^  remaining,  in  the 
place  of  the  nativity  of  this  great  father  of  phyfic. 
It  is  alfo  poiTible,  that  fome  Venetian  phyfician, 
when  the  Venetians  poiTelTed  this  ifland,  gave  the 
fountain  this  name,  to  revive  the  name  of  the  great- 
eft  man  the  ifland  ever  produced.  The  Greek  Bi- 
fliop  of  this  ifland  hath  5000  pir.fters  revenue  a 
4  year, 


T  O     C  H  I  O.  179 

year,  which  the  Turks  left  him,  when  they  took 
poflelfion  of  the  ifland.  This  is  one  of  the  moH  con- 
fiderable  fixed  revenues  that  any  Greek  prelate,  at 
this  time,  has.  The  Bilhop  in  Smyrna  may  fometimes 
receive  15,000  piafters  a  year,  but  at  other  times 
not  half  that  fum ;  as  it  depends  on  alms,  and  efpe- 
cially  thofe  that  he  receives  on  the  day  when  he  vifits 
every  houfe,  and  prefents  them  with  the  holy  water. 
He  receives  on  this  day  from  fix  to  10,000  piafters, 
according  to  the  generofity  and  wealth  of  his  flock. 


N  2  D  E- 


DESCRIPTIONS 

OF   THE   PRINCIPAL 

NATURAL    CURIOSITIES, 

^OUND    BY 

FREDERICK   HASSELQUIST, 

ON     HIS 

TRAVELS    TO   THE   EAST, 


q^V  A  D  R  U  P  ED  E  S.  183 

C     L     A     S     S     I     S        I. 

M    A     H    H     A    L     I     A. 

Q^UADRUPEDES. 


1.  Simia  Cynaraolgos.   The  dog-headed  Monkey. 

2.  Simia  -^thiops.     The  Ethiopian  Monkey. 
^.  Canes  varii.    Several  forts  of  Dogs. 

4.  Viverra   Ichneumon.     The  Ichneumon  of  the 

Nile. 

5.  Vefpertilio  Egyptiacus.    The  Egyptian  Bat. 

6.  Mus  Jaculus.    The  Jumping  Moufe. 

7.  Hippopotamus  Amphibius.    The  River  Horfe. 

8.  Camelus  Dromedarius.    The  Dromedary. 

9.  Equus  Caballus.    The  Horfe. 

10.  Cervus  Camelopardalis.    The  Camel  Deer. 

11.  Capra  Cervicapra.    The  Rock  Goat. 

1 2.  Capra  Angorenfis.     The  Mohair  Goat. 

13.  Ovis  Aries.    The  Sheep. 

I.  SimiaCynamolgosa.  The  dog-headed  Monkey. 

IT  is  of  the fize  of  a  young  Bear,  above  two  feet 
in  length,  and  almoft  one  foot  and  a  half  high, 
and  two  feet  broad ;  it  makes  an  horrid  appear- 

*  Linn.  Syftem.  Nat.  Pag.  28.  No.  16. 

N  4  ance, 


184         Q.U  ADRU  PEDES. 

ance,  and  is  very  ugly  towards  the  back  parts :  In 
outward  appearance,  it  refembles  a  Bear.  It  is  a 
cruel,  perfidious,  atid  -atmoft  untameable  animal." 
It  is  found  in  Ethiopia.  I  have  feen  it  brought  to 
Cairo  by  vagrants,  and  led  about  to  be  {hewn  to 
the  people  at  the  inundation  of  the  Nile. 

2.  Simla  iEthiops^.  The  ^Ethiopian  Monkey. 

It  isf  about  as  big  as  a  common  Cat,  and  is  found 
in  ^Ethiopia,  whence  the  Negroes  bring  in  numbers 
to  Egypt.  The  female  menllruates.  It  is  very 
docile. 

3.  Canis  Vulpes  ^.     The  Fox. 

This  animal-  is  common  In  Falceftine ;  they  arc 
"very  numerous  in  the  ftony  country  about  Beth- 
lehem, and  fometimes  make  great  havock  araongfl 
the  Goats.  There  is  alfo  plenty  of  them  near  the 
Convent  of  St.  John,  in  the  defart,  about  vintage 
time ;  for  they  deflroy  all  the  vines,  unlefs  they  are 
itriftly  watched. 

Canis  aureus  ^,  The  Jackcall.  Chlcal  of  the  Turks. 

There  are  greater  numbers  of  this  fpecies  of  Fox 
to  be  met  with  than  the  former,  particularly  near 
Jaffa,  about  Gaza,  and  in  Galilee.  I  leave  others 
10  determine,  which  of  thefe  is  the  Fox  of  Sampfon^ 
It  was  certainly  one  of  thefe  two  animals. 

Canis  familiaris^     The  Dog. 

The  magiftrates  at  Leghorn  in  Italy  have  au- 
thority to  iiliie  out  orders  for  killing  Dogs,  if  they 

^  Lin.  Svft.  Nat.  P.  28.  N.  14.     <=  P.  40.  N,  4.    ''  P.  4.0.  N.  7. 

abound 


qy  A  D  R  U  P  E  D  E  S.         185 

abound  too  much  in  the  ftreets,  and  molefl  the  in- 
habitants. The  men  entrufted  with  the  execution 
of  thefe  orders  go  through  the  city  in  the  night, 
and  drop  fmall  bits  of  poifoned  bread  in  the  ftreets; 
thefe  are  eaten  by  the  Dogs,  and  inftantaneoufly 
kill  them:  before  fun-rife,  the  fame  men  go  thro' 
the  ftreets  with  a  cart,  gather  hundreds  of  the  dead 
Dogs,  and  carry  them  to  the  Jews  burying-ground 
without  the  town. 

4.  Viverra  Ichneumon  ^.    The  Ichneumon  of  the 

Nile. 

It  is  met  with  both  in  Upper  and  Lower  Egypt, 
living,  during  the  inundation  of  the  Nile,  in  gar- 
dens and  near  the  villages  ;  but  in  the  dry  feafon  it 
lives  in  the  fields,  and  near  the  banks  of  the  Nile, 
It  creeps  flowly  along,  as  if  ready  to  feize  its  prey. 
It  feeds  on  plants,  eggs  and  fowls ;  killing  the  latter 
in  the  night,  when  it  frequents  the  villages.  In 
Upper  Egypt  it  fearches  for  the  eggs  of  the  Croco- 
dile, which  lie  hid  in  the  fand  on  the  fliore,  and 
eats  them,  preventing  by  that  means  the  increafe 
of  that  dangeroas  animal.  The  Ichneumon  may  ea- 
fily  be  tamed,  and  frequently  goes  about  the  houfes 
like  a  Cat.  Mr.  Barton,  who  has  been  the  Eng- 
lilh  Conful  nineteen  years  in  Egypt,  has  kept  a 
tame  one  for  feveral  years.  It  makes  a  growling 
noife,  and  barks  when  it  is  very  angry.  The 
Arabians  call  it  Nems.  The  French  in  Egypt,  who 
give  every  thing  they  don't  know  names  of  their 
own  making,  have  called  this  Rat  de  Pharaon,  which 
the  Latin  writers  of  Egypt,  viz.  Alpinus  and  Bello- 
nius,  have  followed,  and  called  it  Mus  Pharaonis 

f  Lin.  Syft.  Nat,  P.  43.  N.  i.ij 

(the 


lU  q^V  ADRUPEDES. 

(the  Moufe  of  Pharaoh.)  The  refemblance  it  has 
to  a  Moufe  (Mus  terreflris)  in  regard  to  the  colour 
and  hair,  might  have  induced  ignorant  people,  who 
know  nothing  of  natural  hiftory,  to  call  it  a  Moufe ; 
but  I  cannot  conceive  why  they  fhould  call  it  Pha- 
raoh's Moufe.  The  Egyptians  were  too  intelligent, 
in  the  time  of  Pharaoh,  to  call  it  a  Moufe,  having 
knowledge  enough  to  give  true  defcriptions  and  fig- 
nificant  names  to  all  natural  bodies ;  nor  is  it  at 
this  day  called  Phar  by  the  Arabs,  which  is  the 
name  for  Moufe,  but  they  call  it  Neras,  as  I  have 
before  obferved.  What  is  related  concerning  its 
entering  the  jaws  of  the  Crocodile,  is  fabulous. 

5.  Vefpertilio  .^gyptiacus.    The  Egyptian  Bat, 

It  is  of  the  fize  of  a  fmall  Moufe,  and  lives  in  the 
gardens  of  Rofetta,  near  the  banks  of  the  Nile. 

6.  Mus  Jaculuss.     Jumping  Moufe. 

This  animal  is  of  the  fize  of  a  large  Moufe :  it 
fupports  itfelf  only  on  its  hind  legs,  and  therefore 
hops  or  jumps  in  its  progrefTive  motion.  When  it 
refts,  it  clofes  its  feet  to  its  belly,  and  fits  on  its 
knees,  bent ;  it  holds  its  viftuals  with  its  fore-feet, 
or  paws,  as  do  the  reft  of  this  tribe ;  it  is  fond  of 
fleep,  fleeping  in  the  day  and  waking  at  nights;  it 
eats  wheat,  wheat  bread,  and  the  feeds  of  oily  grain 
(Sefamum.)  Though  it  is  not  much  afraid  of  a  man, 
yet  it  is  not  eafily  tamed :  for  this  reafon,  it  is  always 
kept  in  a  cage ;  and  I  have  known  one  of  thefe  ani- 
mals kept  for  fome  months,  and  even  a  year,  in  this 
manner  at  Cairo.     It  is  met  with  in  Egypt,  or  be. 

E  Liii.  Syft.Nat.  P.  63.   N.  15. 

tween 


Q^U  A  D  R  U  P  E  P  E  S.         187 

tween  Egypt  and  Arabia.  The  Arabians  call  it 
Garbuka;  the  French,  who  live  in  Egypt,  Rat  de 
Montagne. 

N.  B.  If  one  fliould  follow  the  method  of  the 
ancients  in  defcribing  this  animal,  we  might  fay  ic 
had  a  head  like  a  Hare,  whiJkers  like  a  Squirrel,  the 
fnout  of  a  Hog,  a  body,  ears,  and  fore  legs,  like  a 
Moufe,  hind  legs  like  a  bird,  with  the  tail  of  a  Lion. 
What  a  monftrous  animal  would  this  feem  to  be ! 
And  had  it  been  delineated  2000  years  ago,  it  would 
at  this  day  have  been  accounted  a  mionft er.  To  this 
manner  of  defcribing,  do  moil  monftrous  animals 
owe  their  origin ;  as  Griffins,  Unicorns,  &c..  &c.  For 
inilance,  when  the  parts  of  a  new-difcovered  animal 
are  compared  to  thofe  of  other  animals  already  well 
known  J  painters,  from  this  method  of  defcribing, 
receive  an  idea  of  a  form  of  nature,  which  they 
always  draw  out  of  character.  This  matter  cer- 
tainly merits  a  farther  enquiry. 

7.  Hippopotamus  Amphibius  ^.    The  River  Horfe, 

Some  obfervations  related  to  me  by  a  credible 

perfon,  who  lived  twelve  years  in  Egypt. 

I.  The  hide  of  a  full  grown  Hippopotamus  is  a 
load  for  a  camel. 

a.  The  River  Horfe  is  an  inveterate  enemy  to  the 
Crocodile,  and  kills  it  whenever  he  meets  ir. 
This,  with  iome  other  reafons,  contribute  much 
to  the  extirpation  of  the  Crocodile;  which,  other^ 
wife,  conlitiering  the  many  eggs  they  lay,  would 
utterly  deftroy  Egypt. 

3.  The  River  Horle  never  appeal's  below  the  Car 
taracts  in  Egypt,  wherefore  the  inhabitants  oi 
Upper  Egypt  only  can  give  any  account  of  ii; 

J>  Lin.  Syfl.  Nat.  P.  7].  N.  i. 

and 


m         C^tf  A  i)  R  U  ^  E  D  E  S; 

and  as  very  few  Europeans,  none  at  leafl  who? 
underllood  natural  hiilory,  have  travelled  inta 
thofe  parts  of  Egypt,  we  know  little  of  the  hif- 
tory  of  this  animal;  fuch  as  have  travelled  in 
India,  have  had  better  opportunities  of  informing 
themfelves  in  this  matter.  The  Elgyptians  very 
feldom  bring  the  hide  of  it  to  Cairo  j  and  it  is 
impoflible  to  bring  thither  the  living  animal.  A 
hide  has  been  fent  to  France,  which,-  I  am  in- 
foraied,  is  preferved  in  the  Royal  Menagerie. 

4.  The  River  Horfe  does  much  damage  to  the  Egyp- 
tians, in  thofe  places  he  frequents.  He  goes  on 
fhore,  and  in  a  fliort  fpace  of  time  deftroys  an 
entire  field  of  corn  or  clover,  not  leaving  the  leaft; 
verdure  as  he  paffes ;  for  he  is  voracious,  and  re-' 
quires  much  to  fill  his  great  belly.  They  have  a 
curious  manner  of  freeing  themfelves,  in  fome 
meafure,  from  this  deflruftive  animal :  they  re- 
mark the  places  he  frequents  moft,  and  there  lay 

.  a  large  quantity  of  peas;  when  the  beaft  comes 
o;i  Ihore,  hungry  and  voracious,  he  falls  to  eating 
what  is  nearefl  him,  and  filling  his  belly  with  the 
peas,  they  occafion  an  infupportable  thirft ;  he 
then  returns  immediately  into  the  river,  and  drinks 
upon  thefe  dry  peas  large  draughts  of  water, 
which  fuddenly  caufes  his  death;  for  the  peas 
foon  begin  to  fwell  with  the  water,  and  not  long 
after  the  Egyptians  find  him  dead  on  the  fliore^ 
blown  up,  as  if  killed  with  the  ftrongeft  poifon^ 

5.  The  oftener  the  River  Horfe  goes  on  Ihore,  thd 
better  hopes- have  the  Egyptians  of  a  fufficient 
fwelling  or  encreafe  of  the  Nile. 

6.  The  Egyptians  fay,  they  can  almofl  diflinguiib 
the  food  of  this  animal  in  his  excrements. 

8.  Camelus 


<^U  A  D  R  U  P  E  D  E  S.  i8^ 

8,  Camelus  Dromedarius  K   The  Dromedary. 

The  Dromedary  commonly  weighs  looolb.  m 
Egypt.  They  feed  him,  for  want  of  better  food, 
with  bruifed  kernels,  or  flones  of  date?  :  theycopUf^ 
Jate  in  Egypt  in  the  month  of  December. 

9.  Equus  Gaballus  ^.    The  Horfe, 

Horses  are  found  wild  in  the  defarts  of  Grim 
Tartary,  and  dijEFer  from  thofe  that  are  tame,  in 
having  much  larger  tails,  according  to  Juili,  who 
travelled  in  thofe  parts. 

JO.  Cervus  Camelopardalis^.  The  Gamel  Deer. 
Bellon.  179.  Camelopardahs  Giraffa.  Alpin. 
-^gypt.  Zurnap.  Arab. 

The  c9lQur  of  the  whole  body,  head  and  le^s  of 
this  animal,  is  variegated  with  dark  brown  fpots; 
the  fpots  are  as  large  as  the  palm  of  a  man's  hand, 
of  an  irregular  figure,  and  in  the  living  animal  are 
of  various  fhades.  This  Deer  is  of  the  bignefs  of  a 
fmall  Gamel ;  the  whole  length,  from  the  upper  lip 
jo  the  tail,  is  twenty-four  fpans.  It  is  met  with  in 
the  fhady  and  thick  woods  of  Senn^r  and  Ethiopia. 

N.  B.  This  is  a  mod  elegant  and  docile  animal, 
it  has  been  feen  by  very  few  natural  hiftprians,  and 
indeed  fcarcely  by  any,  except  Bellonius ;  but  none 
have  given  a  perfeft  defcription,  or  good  figure  of 
it.  I  have  only  feen  the  ikin  of  the  animal,  and  have 
pot  yet  had  an  opportunity  of  beholding  it  alive. 

f  Lin.  Syft.  Nat.  P.  65.  N.  i.   •?  P.  73.N.  i.  '  P.  66.  N.  i. 
I  J  I.  Gapra 


ipd  Q^tr  ADRUPEDES. 

II.  Capra  Cervicapra "^.    The  Rock  Goat. 

This  is  larger,  fwifter,  and  wilder,  than  the  com* 
men  Rock  Goat,  and  can  fcarcely  be  taken  without 
a  Falcon.  It  is  met  v/ith  near  Aleppo.  I  have  feen 
a  A'^ariety  of  this,  which  is  common  in  the  Eaft,  and 
the  horns  appear  difFerent;  perhaps  it  is  a  diftinft 
fpecies.  This  animal  loves  the  fmoke  of  tobacco, 
and  when  caught  alive,  will  approach  the  pipe  of 
the  hunrfman,  though  otherwife  more  timid  than 
any  animal.  This  is  perhaps  the  only  creature,  be- 
fide  m^an,  that  delights  in  the  fmell  of  a  poifonous 
and  {linking  plant.  The  Arabians  hunt  it  with  a 
Falcon  (Falco  gentilis,  Linn.)  I  had  an  excellent  op- 
portunity of  feeing  this  fport  near  Nazareth,  in  Ga- 
lilee. An  Arab,  mounting  a  fwift  courfer,  held  the 
Falcon  on  his  hand,  as  huntfmen  commonly  do: 
when  he  efpied  the  Rock  Goat,  on  the  top  of  a 
"mountain,  he  let  loofe  the  Falcon,  which  flew  in  a 
direft  line,  like  an  arrow,  and  attacked  the  animal, 
fixing  the  talons  of  one  of  his  feet  into  the  cheek  of 
the  creature,  and  the  talons  of  the  other  into  its 
throat,  extending  his  wings  obliquely  over  the  ani- 
mal ;  fpreading  one  towards  one  of  its  ears,  and  the 
other  to  the  oppofite  hip.  The  animal,  thus  at- 
tacked, made  a  leap  twice  the  height  of  a  man,  and 
freed  himfelf  from  the  Falcon ;  but,  being  wounded, 
and  lofmg  its  flrength  and  fpeed,  it  was  again  at- 
tacked by  the  Falcon,  which  fixed  the  talons  of  both 
its  feet  into  the  throat  of  the  animal,  and  held  it  faft, 
till  the  huntfman  coming  up,  took  it  alive,  and  cut 
its  throat ;  the  Falcon  drinking  the  blood,  as  a  re- 
ward for  his  labour,  and  a  young  Falcon,  which  was 

"■  Lin.  Syft.  Nat.  P.  69.  N...7. 

learning, 


Q^U  A  D  R  U  P  E  D  E  S.  ipr 

learning,  was  likewife  put  to  the  throat  of  the 
Goat;  by  this  means  are  young  Falcons  taught  to 
fix  their  talons  in  the  throat  of  the  animal,  as  being 
the  propereft  part ;  for  fhould  the  Falcon  fix  them 
in  the  creature's  hip,  or  fome  other  part  of  the 
body,  the  huntfman  would  not  only  lofe  his  game, 
but  his  Falcon  alfo :  for  the  animal,  roufed  by  the 
wound,  which  could  not  prove  mortal,  would  run  to 
the  defarts,  and  the  tops  of  the  mountains,  whither 
its  enemy  keeping  its  hold,  would  be  obliged  to 
follow;  and,  being  feparated from  its  mafler,  mud  of 
courfe  periih. 

12.  Capra  Angorenfis".    The  Mohair  Goat. 

The  Mohair  Goats  are  a  fmgular  variety  of  the 
common  Goats,  being  famous  for  their  loft  and 
filver-white  hairs,  the  like  of  which  are  not  to  be 
found  in  any  place  but  Angora.  The  Engliili  and 
Dutch  have  long,  to  their  great  advantage,  made 
the  Mohair  Goats  one  of  the  principal  articles  of 
their  Levant  trade.  The  fine  Engliih  camlets  are 
made  of  the  hair,  which  is  commonly  carried  ready 
fpun  to  Europe  ;  and,  being  there  woven,  is  after- 
wards exported  to  ail  parts  of  the  world,  even 
to  thofe  whence  the  yarn  was  originally  brought. 
The  French  at  prefent  have  fome  fliare  of  the  pro- 
fit refulting  from  this  trade;  but  nobody  could 
ev€r  hit  on  a  furer  and  more  judicious  method  of 
making  this  valuable  commodity  ferviceable  to  his 
country,  than  Mr.  Alflroeraer,  one  of  the  Swedilh 
Lords  of  Trade,  who  got  the  animal  to  Sweden, 
with  an  intention  to  propagate  it  there,  We  re- 
ceived this  day  four  of  them,  fent  by  Mr,  Bicerling, 


"  Lin.  Syfl.  Nat.  P.  6S.  "N.  ij. 


from 


rpz  q  U  A  D  R  U  P  E  D  E  S. 

from  Angora  to  Smyrna:  he  was  fent  thither  by 
Mr.  Alllroemer,  for  this  purpofe.  This  is  the 
handforaeft  creature  of  the  kind  I  ever  met  with, 
and  differs  from  the  common  Goat,  in  having  longer 
hair,  a  fliorter  body,  fliorter  legs,  broader  and  flatter 
fides,  and  lefs  and  flraiter  horns,  I  fliould  almoft 
conclude  it  to  be  a  diftinft  fpecies ;  and  the  rather, 
as  it  continues  its  breed  without  degenerating. 

13.  Ovis  Aries °.    The  Sheep, 

I  HAVE  obferved  a  cruft  growing  on  the  teeth  of 
the  Sheep  in  Egypt,  which  hath  entirely  the  ap- 
pearance of  a  Pyrites.  It  appears  chiefly  at  the 
time  when  they  feed  on  grafs,  which  is  fcarcely  any 
thing  but  Lucern.  I  have  heard  that  this  is  alfo 
common  to  the  Sheep  of  Antiliban, 

•  Lin,  Syft.  Nat,  P.  70.  N,  1. 


CLASSIS 


BIRDS.  193 


C    L    A    S    S    I    S       11. 

A   V    E    S.         BIRDS. 


14.  Vultur  Percnopterus.    The  Egyptian  Vultur. 

15.  Strix  Otus.    The  Horn  Owl. 

1 6.  Strix  orientalis.    The  Oriental  Owl. 

1 7.  Pfittacus  Alexandri.    The  Parrot  of  Alexander, 

1 8.  Pfittacus  obfcurus.    A  Parrot  from  Africa. 

19.  Upupa  Pyrrhocoax.     The  Black  Hoop. 

20.  Corvus  asgyptius.   The  Egyptian  Crow. 
2  1.  Pirus  minor.    The  LelTer  Woodpecker. 

22.  Alcedorudis.    The  Perfian  Kings-filher. 

23.  Alcedo  aegyptia.    The  Egyptian  Kings-fifher. 

24.  Merops  Apiafter.   The  Bee-catcher. 

25.  Ardea  Ibis.    The  Ibis  of  the  Egyptians. 

26.  Tringa  segyptiaca.    The  Egyptian  Plover. 

27.  Tringa  autumnaiis.    The  Autumnal  Plover. 

28.  Tringa  fubtridaftyla.     The  Three-toed  Plover. 
2^.  Charadrius  Himantopus.     The  Autumnal  Dot- 

terell. 

30.  Charadrius    alexandrinus.     The    Alexandrian 

Dottereil. 

31.  Charadrius  segyptius.   The  Egyptian  Dottereil. 

32.  Charadrius  Kervan.   The  Oriental  Dottereil. 

33.  Charadrius  fpinofus.   The  Armed  Dottereil. 

34.  Fulica  atra.   The  Coote. 

O  35.  Anas 


194  BIRDS. 

35.  Anas  damiatica.   The  Damiatick  Duck. 
56.  Anas  nilotica.    The  Duck  of  the  Nile. 

37.  Mergus  Aibellus.    The  White  Nun. 

38.  Larus  fmyrnenfis.    The  Smyrna  Gull. 

39.  Larus  canefcens.    The  Grey  Gull. 

40.  Sterna  nigricans-.   The  Black  Sea  Swallow, 

41.  Sterna  nilotica.   The  Egyptian  Sea  Swallow, 

42.  Nuonida  Meleagris.   The  Guinea  Hen. 

43.  Tetrao  orientalis.   The  Oriental  Partridge. 

44.  Tetrao  Coturnix.    The  Quail. 

45.  Columboe  varise.   Several  forts  of  Pigeons. 

46.  Alauda  hifpanica.   The  Spanifli  Lark. 

47.  Sturnus  vulgaris.    The  Starling. 

48.  Emberiza  melitenfis.   The  Eailern  Bunting. 

49.  Emberiza  africana.   The  African  Bunting. 

50.  Motacilla  yvica.    The  Wagtail  from  Yvica. 

51.  Motacilla.    The  Red-breafted  Wagtail. 

52.  Motacilla  hifpanica.  The  Spanifli  Wagtail. 

14.  Vultus  Percnopterus  ^.  The  Egyptian  Vultur, 

iHEY  light  in  great  flocks  on  the  lay-flalls 
^  near  the  city  of  Cairo,  and  there  promifcu- 
Gufly  feed,  together  with  the  Dogs  and  other 
bealls,  on  dead  carcafes  and  other  offal.  They  af- 
lemble  with  the  Kites  every  morning  and  evening, 
in  the  fquare  called  Rohneli,  below  the  caftle  (which 
is  the  place  for  executing  capital  offenders)  there  to 
receive  the  alms  of  frefli  meat,  left  them  by  the  le- 
gacies of  wealthy  great  men. 

The  appearance  of  the  bird  is  as  horrid  as  can 
well  be  imagined,  viz.  The  face  is  naked  and 
wrinkled,  the  eyes  are  large  and  black,  the  beak 
black  and  hooked,  the  talons  large,  and  extended 

a  Lin.  Syft.  Nat.  P.  87.  N,  6. 

ready 


BIRDS.  195 

ready  for  prey,  and  the  whole  body  polluted  with 
filth :  thefe  are  qualities  enough  to  make  the  be- 
holder lliudder  with  horror.    Notwithilanding  this, 
the  inhabitants  of  Egypt  cannot  be  enough  thank- 
ful to  Providence  for  this  bird.-     All  the  places 
round  Cairo  are  filled  with  the  dead  bodies  of  alTes    , 
and  camels ;  and  thoufands  of  thefe  birds  fly  about, 
and  devour  the  carcafes,  before  they  putrify  and  fill 
the  air  with  noxious  exhalations.     The  inhabitants 
of  Egypt,  and  after  them  Maiilet,  in  his  Defcrip- 
tion  of  Egypt,  fay,  that  they  yearly  follow  the  ca- 
ravan   to  Mecca,    and  devour  the   filth    of    the 
flaughtered  beads,  and  the  carcafes  of  the  camels, 
which  die  on  the  journey ;  but  I  have  not  been  an 
eye-witnefs  of  this.     They  don't  fly  high,  nor  are 
they  afraid  of  men.     If  one  is  killed,  all  the  reft 
furround  him,  in  the  fame  manner  as  do  the  Roy- 
flon  crows ;  they  do  not  quit  the  places  they  fre- 
quent, though  frightened  by  the  explofion  of  a  gun, 
but  immediately  return  thither.     I  am  not  of  opi- 
nion that  this  bird  eats  infers  or  worms,  as  it  is 
fcarcely  ever  feen  in  the  fields  and  lakes ;  nor  do  the 
other  fpecies  of  this  genus  admire  that  diet.    Mail- 
let  imagines  this  bird  to  be  the  Ibis  of  the  ancients; 
but,  I  think,  his  opinion  has  not  the  lead  appearance 
of  truth.     We  can  fcarcely  be  induced  to  imagine, 
that  a  wife  nation  fliould  pay  fuch  honours  to  an 
unclean,  impure,  and  rapacious  bird,  which  was  not 
perhaps  fo  common,  before  the  Egyptians  filled  the 
ftreets  with  carcafes.     If  the  Ibis  is  to  be  found,  it 
muft  certainly  be  looked  for  in  the  Ordo  of  Grallis 
of  Linnseus ;  and  I  imagine  it  to  be  the  White  He- 
ron, which  is  fo  common  in  Egypt.     The  Arabians 
call  it  Rochasme ;  the  French,  living  in  Egypt,  give 
it  the  name  of  Ghaj)on  de  Pharaon,  or  de  Maho- 
meth :  Maiilet  fays,  "it  is  (o  called,  becaufe  it  re- 

.  Q  2  fembles 


1^6  BIRDS. 

fembles  a  Capon ;  but,  except  its  being  larger  than 
a  Capon,  what  refemblance  is  there  between  them  ? 
This  is  not  the  only  ridiculous  denomination  given 


to  things. 


15.  StrlxOtus^.    Horn  Owl. 


I  have  feen  this  alive  in  Cairo,  nor  is  it  rare  in 

Egypt. 

1 6.  Strix  orientalis  facie  pilofa  futura  crifpato— . 
plumofa  in  dorfo  roftri.    The  oriental  Owl. 

It  is  of  the  fize  of  the  common  Owl,  living  in  the 
ruins  and  old  deferted  houfes  of  Egypt  and  Syria, 
and  fometimes  in  inhabited  houfes.  The  Arabs  in 
Egypt  call  it  Mallafa;  the  Syrians  Bana.  It  is 
very  ravenous  in  Syria;  and  in  the  evenings,  if  the 
windows  are  left  open,  it  flies  into  houfes,  and  kills 
infants,  unlefs  they  are  carefully  watched,  where- 
fore the  women  are  much  afraid  of  it. 

17.  Pfittacus  Alexandri*^.     The  Parrot  of  Alex- 

ander. 

It  Is  of  the  fize  of  a  Dove,  lives  in  Ethiopia, 
and  is  by  the  Ethiopians  brought  to  Cairo  for  fale. 
This  is  a  very  pretty  bird;  it  has  a  flirill  and  pierc- 
ino-  voice,  and  can  eafily  be  taught  to  make  it  in 
fome  meafure  articulate.  Its  chief  food  confifts  in 
the  feeds  of  Safflower  (Carthamus  tin^lorius). 

18.  Pfittacus  obfcurus*^.    A  Parrot  from  Africa. 

This  is  of  the  fize  of  a  Cuckow. 

b  Lin.  Syft.  Nat.  P.  92.  N.  4.  ''  P.  97.  N.  9. 

19.  Upupa 


BIRDS.  197 

19.  Upupa  Pyrrhocorax  ^.     The  black  Hoop. 

This  is  of  the  fize  of  the  Jackdaw,  lives  in  the 
fields  and  houfes  of  lower  Egypt,  during  the 
months  of  September  and  October,  on  the  decreafe 
of  the  Nile.  It  ,eats  an  infeft  peculiar  to  Egypt,  and 
near  a  kin  to  the  Cock-Roach  (Blatta). 

10.  Corvus  segyptius  viridi  maculatus,  dorfo  medio 
caeruleo.     The  Egyptian  Crow. 

It  is  of  the  fize  of  a  lark;  it  lives  in  the  trees  of 
Egypt,  feeds  on  infects.  I  have  found  the  remains 
of  Scorpions  and  Scolopendras  in  its  flomach. 

21.  Picus  minor  s.    The  LelTer  Woodpecker. 

This  is  of  the  fize  of  a  Lark ;  the  female  is  a  lit- 
tle bigger  than  the  male.  The  peafants  of  Natalia 
bring  it  to  Smyrna.  I  can  fcarcely  believe  that  this 
bird  migrates. 

22.  Alcedo  rudis''.    The  Perfian  Kings-fiidier. 

It  is  found  in  Egypt,  near  the  banks  of  the  Nile, 
and  catches  fiih  by  diving  with  its  long  beak  under 
the  water,  in  the  fame  manner  as  do  the  Sea  Gulls 
(Larus). 

23.  Alcedo  asgyptia.    The  Egyptian  Kings-fiflier. 

It  is  found  in  Lower  Egypt,  and  builds  its  nefts 
in  the  Date-trees  and  Sycamores  about  Cairo;  feed- 
ing on  the  frogs,  infefts,  and  little  fiili,  which  it 

f  Lin.  Syft.  Nat.  P.  118.  N.  4.  «  P.  114.  N.  12.  ^  P. 
116.  N.  6. 


198  BIRD    S. 

gets  in  the  overflown  fields.    Its  voice  refembles  tliat 
of  the  Raven. 

24.  Merops  Apiafter  K    The  Bee-catcher. 

This  bird  is  called  Varuar  by  the  Arabs,  and 
is  found  in  the  plains  of  Galilee. 

25.  Ardea  Ibis^  The  Ibis  of  the  Egyptians. 

It  is  of  the  fize  of  a  Raven  Hen.  This  bird  is  found 
in  lower  Egypt,  and  is  feen  in  great  numbers  during 
the  overflowing  of  the  Nile,  in  thofe  places,  which 
the  water  does  not  reach,  and  afterwards  in  the 
places  the  water  has  deferted.  It  feeds  on  infefts 
and  fmall  frogs,  which  abound  in  Egypt,  during  the 
inundation  of  the  Nile  and  forfome  time  after,  be- 
ing, by  this  means,  of  great  fervice  to  the  country. 
They  often  aflemble,  efpecially  mornings  and  even- 
ings, in  the  gardens,  in  fuch  numbers,  as  to  cover 
whole  Palm'trees.  When  this  bird  refts,  it  fits  up- 
right, fo  as  to  cover  its  feet  with  its  tail,  and  raifes 
the  breafl:  and  neck. 

N.  B,  I  am  inclined  to  believe  this  bird  to  be  the 
Ibis  of  the  ancient  Egyptians,  rather  than  any  other; 
becaufe  it  is:  i.  Very  common  in  Egypt,  and  almofl 
peculiar  to  that  country.  2.  It  eats  and  deflroys  Ser- 
pents. 3.  The  urns  found  in  the  Sepulchres  contain 
a  bird  of  this  fize. 

^  Lin.  Syft.  Nat.  P.  117.  N.  i.      ^  P.  144.  N.  18. 


26.  Tringa 


BIRDS.  199 

2(5.  Tringa  3?gyptiaca  longiroftris,  fufco  albidoque 
variegata.     The  Egyptian  Plover. 

This  bird  is  of  the  fize  of  a  Hen,  and  is  found 
in  the  moid  places  of  Egypt,  during  the  month  of 
September. 

27.  Tringa  autumnalis  longiroflris,  dorfo  abdomi- 
neque  purpurafcente.     The  Autumnal  Plo-ver. 

It  is  of  the  fize  of  a  Hen,  and  is  found  in  Egypt, 
during  the  autumn. 

28.  Tringa  fubtridaftyla.    The  Three-toed  Plover. 
It  is  of  the  fize  of  a  Pigeon. 

29.  Charadrius    Himantopus  ^      The    Autumnal 

Dotterell. 

This  bird  comes  to  Egypt,  in  the  month  of  Oc- 
tober, and  is  found  in  the  lakes. 

30.  Charadrius  alexandrinus  °^.    The  Alexandrian 

Dotterell. 

It  is  of  the  fize  of  a  Lark :  I  found  it  the  24th 
of  May,  1750,  in  the  channel,  which  leads  the  water 
of  the  Nile  to  Alexandria.     It  feeds  on  infedls, 

31.  Charadrius  segyptius".     The   Egyptian  Dot- 

terell. 

It  is  found  in  the  plains  of  Egypt,  feeding  on 
infects. 

'Lin.  Sylt.  Nat.  P.  1 5  I.N.  10.  '"P.  150.  N.  3.    "P.iijo.  N.  5. 
O  4  32.  Charadrius 


coo  BIRDS. 

32.  Charadrius  Kervan°.     The  Oriental  Dotterell. 

This  bird  is  of  the  fize  of  a  Crow,  and  is  met 
with  in  lower  Egypt,  in  the  Acacia  groves,  near 
the  villages  Abufir  and  Sackhara,  near  the  Sepul- 
chres of  the  antient  Egyptians,  and  in  the  defarts. 
The  Arabians  call  it  Kervan.  It  has  a  flirill  voice, 
fomewhat  refembling  that  of  the  Black  Wood- 
pecker (Pirns  martins),  which  it  raifes  and  lowers 
fuccellively,  uttering  agreeable  notes.  The  Turks 
and  Egyptians  value  it  much,  if  they  can  get  it 
alive,  and  keep  it  in  a  cage  for  the  fake  of  its  fmg- 
ing.  Its  flefh  is  hard,  and  of  a  very  good  tafte,  in- 
clined to  aromatic.  It  is  a  very  voracious  bird, 
catching  and  devouring  Rats  and  Mice  (Glires), 
which  abound  in  Egypt.  It  feldom  drinks,  and, 
when  taken  young,  and  kept  in  a  cage  in  Egypt, 
they  give  it  no  water  for  feveral  months,  but  feed 
it  with  frefh  meat,  macerated  in  water,  which  it  de- 
vours very  voracioully.  It  is  found  in  defarts,  and 
is  therefore  accuftomed  to  be  without  water.  I 
kept  one  of  thefe  birds  alive  in  Egypt  two  months, 
and  then  fent  it  to  Smyrna. 

33.  Charadrius  fpinofusP.    The  armed  Dotterell. 

It  is  of  the  fize  of  a  Dove  :  the  French  call  it 
Dominicanus,  from  the  refemblance  it  bears  the 
drefs  of  a  Dominican  Monk;  as  it  has  a  black  neck, 
but  the  fides  of  it  are  white. 


34.  Fullca  atra"".    The  Coot. 

1 

35.   Anus 


'^  Lin.  Syft.  Nat.  P.  ici.  N.  9.    pP.151.  N.u.   iP.i'jz 
N.  I. 


BIRDS.  201 

35.  Anas  damiatica  grifea,  roftro  apice  piano  lato 
rottindato.    The  Damiatick  Duck, 

It  is  of  the  fize  of  the  common  Duck.  It  is  found 
near  the  fea  coafts  of  Egypt,  and  is  very  common 
in  the  Mediterranean ;  but  particularly  in  the  Bay 
near  Damiata,  and  between  Alexandria  and  Ro- 
fetta;  near  the  harbour  Bichie,  where  they  are 
caught  with  nets  ahve. 

3(5.  Anas  nilotica.    The  Duck  of  the  Nile. 

The  neck  and  upper  part  of  the  head  are  white, 
with  grey  fpots,  and  a  grey  line  runs  lengthways 
behind  the  eyes ;  the  bread  is  greyifh,  with  black 
ftripes  running  acrofs  it ;  the  belly  and  thighs  are 
of  the  fame  colour,  but  at  the  fides  of  the  belly  are 
fome  grey  oblong  flripes.  It  is  met  with  wild  in 
Upper  Egypt,  and  no  where  elfe,  if  not  perhaps  in 
the  Red  Sea.  The  Arabians  call  it  Bah.  It  is  ea- 
fily  tamed,  and  is  kept  in  Egypt  with  the  common 
Geefe. 


3  7.  Mergus  Albellus  "■.    The  White  Nun. 

I  HAD  this  brought  from  the  ifland  Tinus :  it 
lives  in  the  North  during  the  fummer  months. 

38.  Larus  fmyrnenfis.   The  Smyrna  Gull. 

The  upper  parts  of  the  beak,  head,  neck,  back, 
wings  and  tail,  are  black,  but  the  lower  parts  are 
white  f  the  membrane  of  the  toes,  and  the  inward 

^Lin.  Syft.  Nat  P.  129.  N.  4. 

toes, 


202  BIRDS. 

toes,  are  white,  but  the  outward  toe  is  black;  the 
infide  of  the  legs  is  white,  and  the  outfide  black. 
This  was  caught  in  the  harbour  of  Smyrna. 

39.  Larus  canefcens  ^    The  Grey  Gull. 

I  SAW  this  bird  on  the  26th  of  February,  near  the 
Kile,  and  fuppofe  it  came  from  the  Mediterranean. 

40.  Sterna  nigricans.    The  Black  Sea  Swallow. 

41.  Sterna  nilotica.    The  Egyptian  Sea  Swallow. 

The  beak  of  this  bird  is  black;  the  head  and 
neck  are  greyifli  above,  with  fmall  black  fpots ;  the 
part  round  the  eyes  is  black,  fpotted  with  white  ; 
the  back,  wings,  and  tail,  are  grey;  the  belly,  and 
under  part  of  the  neck,  are  white ;  the  feet  red, 
and  toes  black.  It  is  of  the  fize  of  a  Dove,  and  is 
found  in  the  Nile.  The  Arabs  call  it  Abunures. 
It  bears  a  great  refemblance  to  a  Gull ;  the  lower 
part  of  the  beak  is  fomewhat  thick,  but  being  ilrait 
alfo,  proves  it  to  belong  to  this  genus.  This  bird 
comes  in  great  flocks  to  Trajan's  canal  (which  runs 
near  Cairo)  in  the  beginning  of  January,  and  feeks 
its  food  in  the  mud  left  by  the  Nile.  It  hunts,  ef- 
pecialiy  for  infefts  without  wings  (Aptera),  fmall 
fifli  and  filth;  it  is  therefore  of  great  fervice  to 
Egypt. 

42.  Numida  Meleagrls  ^    The  Guinea  Hen. 

I  HAD  this  bird  from  Nubia,  whence  the  Nubian 
merchants  bring  it  for  fale  to  Cairo,  with  Monkeys 

8  Lin.Syft.Nat.  P.136.  N.  2.    'Linn.  Muf.  Regis,  torn. 2.  p.  27. 

and 


BIRDS.  203 

and  Parrots.  When  it  raifes  its  voice,  it  makes  a  fm- 
gular  creaking  found,  eafier  to  be  imagined  than  de- 
icribed,  foraewhat  referabling  the  cackling  of-  a  hen, 
but  more  fonorous :  there  is  a  pecuharity  in  it  which 
almofl:  penetrates  the  brain,  and  affefls  the  head  in 
a  manner  not  to  be  defcribedj  this,  at  leaft,  has 
happened  to  me.  I  never  heard  it  make  this  loud 
noife  but  in  the  morning ;  but  its  conftant  noife  is 
like  a  Turkey  Hen.  It  chufes  high  places  to  fleep 
in,  as  Hens  do:  it  is  brought  up  tame  in  Nubia, 
and  other  places  of  Africa,  as  well  as  America, 
where  it  is  very  familiar,  and  feeds  with  other 
poultry.  It  is  as  pretty  a  bird  as  one  would  wifh  to 
fee,  and  is  certainly  the  third  bird  in  beauty,  after 
the  Peacock  and  Humming  bird :  it  does  not,  it  is 
true,  dazzle  the  eye  with  gaudy  colours;  but  its  ele- 
gant fhape,  and  the  regular  difpofition  of  the  fpots, 
make  it  appear  perfectly  handfome. 

43.  Tetrao  orientalist.    The  Oriental  Partridge. 

It  is  of  the  iize  of  the  common  Partridge,  and  is 
found  in  the  groves  and  woods  of  Natolia.  It  is 
taken  in  the  winter. 

44.  Tetrao  Coturnix  ■'^.    The  Quail.    Tetrao  Ifrael- 

itarum..  HaiTelquifl. 

It  is  of  the  fize  of  a  Turtle  Dove :  Inave  met 
with  it  in  the  wildernefs  of  Palasfline,  near  the 
fliores  of  the  Dead  Sea  and  Jordan,  betvv^een  Jordan 
and  Jericho,  and  in  the  defarts  of  Arabia  Petr^ea.  If 
the  food  of  the  Ifraelites  in  the  defarts  was  a  bird, 

a  Lia.Syft.Nat.  P.  i6i.  N.  12.      >"  P.  i6i.  N,  13. 

2  thijj. 


204  BIRDS. 

this  is  certainly  it,  being  fo  common  in  the  places 
through  which  they  pafled. 

I  HAVE  feen  a  fpecies  of  Partridge,  very  common 
about  the  pyramids  of  Egypt,  and  in  the  defarts. 
It  is  of  a  greyifh  colour,  and  lefs  than  our  common 
Partridge.  This  ought  certainly  to  obtain  a  place 
amongft  the  birds  mentioned  in  the  Scriptures, 
The  Arabians  call  it  Katta.   An  Selaw? 

45.  Columba  domeflica^.    The  Pigeon. 

I  HAD  three  very  fingular  and  fine  varieties  of 
this  fpecies  at  Cairo,  175 1. 

I .  Columba  area  oculorum  lata  nuda  rugofa  pallide 
fanguinea. 

A  PIGEON,  which  hath  the  circle  round  the  eyes 
broad,  naked,  wrinkled,  and  of  a  flefh  colour. 
This  comes  from  Arabia. 

2.  Columba  crifpa. 

This  bird  is  of  the  fize  of  the  common  Pigeon  ; 
the  pinions,  or  upper  part  of  the  wings,  are  covered 
with  fmall  ereft  curl'd  feathers,  fomewhat  like  the 
petals  of  a  flower.  It  is  quite  white;  I  have  been 
informed,  that  it  is  likewife  found  of  a  black  co- 
lour ;  but  I  never  faw  one  of  them.  It  is  brought 
from  India. 

3.  Columba   arabica  tremula.     The    Fan-tail  Pi- 
geon. 

It  is  of  the  fize  of  a  common  Pigeon ;  it  carries 
its  neck  very  far  back,  and  its  head  is  in  conftant 

^  Lin.  Syfi.  Nat.  P.   162.  N.  i. 

tremulation  j 


B     I    R    D     So  205 

tremulation  ;  the  breaft  is  very  convex,  and  proje£ls 
far  out,  efpecially  in  the  female.     I  had  it  brought 
from  Arabia  Felix   to  Cairo.     The  head,   belly, 
wings,  throat,  and  upper  part  of  the  neck,  were 
quite  white,  and  a  white  fafcia  in  the  middle  of  the 
back  J  the  Ihoulders,  back,  and  under  part  of  the 
neck,  were  of  a  fhining  changeable  purple ;  this  is 
the  colour  mod  common  to  this  variety,  yet  I  have 
feen  others  of  a  different  colour,  but  of  the  fame 
form  and  fize.     It  is  the  moil  elegant  and  beautiful 
variety  of  all  hitherto  known;  its  pofition,  when  it 
walks,  is  very  particular,  for  it  elevates  one  half  of 
the  body,  viz.  the  bread:,  and  part  of  the  belly  ; 
but  the  female  does  this  in  a  greater  degree  than 
the  male.    The  common  Pigeon  is  by  the  Arabians 
called  Haram;  the  Turtle  Dove  they  call  Jamara ; 
the  Ring  Dove  Jofie.     The  latter  of  thefe  migrates 
at   Cairo;  it  lives  in  the    holes  of   the    adjacent 
houfes,  from  the  filling  of  the  canal  of  Trajan  until 
it  is  dry  ;  but  is  not  feen  during  the  remaining  part 
of  the  year.    The  common  Pigeon  builds  her  nefls 
in  the  following  manner :  the  male  gathers  flraw, 
&c.  and  carries  it  to  the  fitting  female;  but  he  gives 
it  to  her  in  a  very  peculiar  manner,  leaning  his  neck 
over  hers,  fo  that  flie  receives  the  materials  from 
the  oppofite  fide,  and  lays  them  under  her  belly, 
builc^ing  a  round  neft.    It  was  in  this  manner,  the 
firfl  variety  of  the  Pigeons,  here  defcribed,  pro- 
ceeded in  building  its  neft.    I  had  it  for  fome  time 
in  Cairo. 

46.  Alauda  hifpanlca.    The  Spaniili  Lark. 

I  SAW  this  in  the  Mediterranean,  coming  from 
the  Spanifh  Ihore,  the  i8th  of  November,  1749, 

and 


2o6  BIRDS. 

and  gave  an  account  of  it   in   that  part  of  my 
journal. 

47.  Sturnus  vulgaris  y.     The  Starling. 

It  comes  to  Egypt  in  the  winter,  from  the  Southern 
parts  of  Europe,  France  and  Italy. 

48.  Emberiza  melitenfis.    The  Eaftern  Bunting. 

I  SAW  it  in  the  Mediterranean,  coming  on  board 
from  Malta,  and  then  defcribed  it. 

49.  Emberiza  africana^.   The  African  Bunting. 

It  came  on  board  the  firft  of  November,  1749, 
from  Africa  ;  I  then  defcribed  it  in  my  journal. 

50.  Motacilla    (yvica)    corpore   fufco  viridifcente, 
pe^lore  ferrugineo.    The  Wagtail  from  Yvica. 

It  was  caught  on  board  the  fliip  the  i8th  of 
Oflobei',  1749,  and  came  from  the  illand  Yvica. 

51.  Motacilla  corpore  ex  fufco  viridifcente,  pe<Sore 

ferrugineo.     The  Red-breafted  Wagtail. 

I  SAW  it  in  the  Mediterranean,  near  the  Spanifli 
(hove,  whence  it  had  come  on  board  the  15  th  of  Oc- 
tober, 1749,  and  have  already  defcribed  it  in  my 
journal. 

r  Lin.  Syll.  Nat.  P.  167.  N.  i.      *  P.  17+.  N.  20. 

52.  Motacilla 


BIRDS.  207 

52.  Motacilla  Hifpanica.     The  Spanlfh  Wagtail, 

It  came  on  board  the  15th  of  Oftober,   1749, 
from  the  Spanifli  Ihore.     It  feeds  on  £ies. 


The  Arrival  of  Migrating  Birds    in 
Egypt,  obferved  in  the  year  1750. 

1  N  the  months  of  September  and  October,  at  the 
end  of  the  former,  and  beginning  of  the  latter,  I 
have  obferved  the  wading  birds  called  Gralise: 

Ardea  Grus  ^  (Crane)  from  Greece  and  Turkey. 

I  KNOW  not  whence  this  bird  came.  The  Egyp- 
tians tell  me,  that  it  is  an  inhabitant  of  Egypt,  and 
that  it  is  met  with  in  the  Southern  parts  of  the  king- 
dom in  fummer,  but  comes  to  Lower  Egypt  in  au- 
tumn. If  this  is  true,  it  differs  from  the  nature  of 
other  birds,  which  go  from  the  North  to  the  South 
at  that  time ;  but  this,  on  account  of  food,  comes 
to  the  North.  The  bird  of  this  kind,  which  I  de- 
fcribed  at  Smyrna,  was  brought  from  Greece,  ac- 
cording to  the  accounts  of  the  Turks  :  but  how  can 
this  agree  with   the  relation  of   the  Egyptians  ^ 

Tringa  autumnalis.    The  autumnal  Plover. 

Tringa  asgyptia.     The  Egyptian  Plover. 

Tringa  Vanellus^.     The  Baflard  Plover. 

It  comes  in  great  numbers  in  the  beginning  of 
OiStober,  and  remains  all  the  winter.    I  faw  it  about 

»  Lin.  Syft.  N«*t.P.  141.  N.  2.     ''  P.  148.  N.  2. 

Cairo 


2o8        '  BIRD     S. 

Cairo  the   15th  of  December,  1750,  where  it  is 
efleemed  good  eating. 

Several  other  fpecies  of  Plovers,  which  I  have 
already  defcribed. 

Pelecanus  Onocrotalus  <^.     The  Pelecan. 

This  bird  comes  to  Egypt  in  the  middle  of  Sep- 
tember. In  flying,  they  form  an  acute  angle,  like 
the  common  wild  Geefe,  when  they  migrate.  In  the 
fummer  they  inhabit  the  Black  Sea,  and  coafls  of 
Greece;  and,  in  their  migration,  remain  for  a  few 
days  near  Smyrna,  and  the  other  parts  of  the  coafls 
of  Natolia,  but  never  ftray  far  from  the  continent : 
they  fly  very  high.  Some  of  them  remain  at  Da- 
miata,  and  in  the  iflands  of  the  Delta,  in  the  Me- 
diterranean, but  the  greateil  part  goes  to  Egypt. 

The  Motacilla  Ficedula  arrives  in  September. 

The  Alaudse  (Larks)  Fringilla  Carduelis  (Gold- 
finch) and  domeftica,  with  feveral  others  of  the  Spar- 
row tribe  (Pafleres  Linn^ei),  remain  all  the  year. 

NOVEMBER. 

Iisi  this  month  all  forts  of  water  fowl  abound  In 
the  places  lately  overflowed  by  the  Nile;  for  here 
they  find  plenty  of  fmall  frogs  for  food  :  they  re- 
main till  near  the  end  of  the  fpring,  and  come,  per- 
haps, from  Europe ;  nor  are  they,  at  this  time,  lefs 
numerous  in  Natolia  and  the  iflands. 

Anas  Bofchas  ^.     The  Duck. 

This  appeared  on  the  tables  about  the  beginning 
of  this  month  :  they  are  fliot,  but  in  no  great  plenty. 

=  Lin.  Syft.  Nat.  P.  1 3  2.  N.  i .    ''  Lin.  Syft.  Nat.  P.  1 27 .  N.  34. 

Anas 
4 


BIRDS.  209 

Anas  Penelope  ^^    The  Wigeom 

*rHis  kind  wa§  brought  alive  in  great  ntimbers, 
about  the  middle  and  latter  end  of  this  month :  they 
are  caught  in  nets  at  night,  juft  before  the  water  is 
entirely  returned  or  dried  up, 

MARCH. 

Tetrao  Coturnix  f.    The  Qudlh 

An  amazing  number  of  thefe  birds  come  to 
Egypt  at  this  time ;  for  in  this  month  the  wheat 
ripens.  They  conceal  themfelves  amongfl  the  corn> 
but  the  Egyptians  know  extremely  well  that  there 
are  thieves  in  their  grounds;  and  when  they  ima* 
gine  the  field  to  be  full  of  them,  they  fpread  a  net 
over  the  corn,  and  furround  the  field,  at  the  fame 
time  making  a  noife,  by  which  the  birds  are  fright- 
ened, and  endeavouring  to  rife,  are  caught  in  the 
net  in  great  numbers,  and  make  a  mofi  delicate  and 
agreeable  difli. 

In  December  and  January,  1749, 1  lawTringse, 
Charadrii,  and  other  migrating  birds,  of  the  genus 
of  Scolopax,  fuch  as  Woodcocks,  &c.  at  Smyrna ; 
I  afterwards  faw  in  the  following  year,  1750,  at 
the  fame  time  of  the  year,  fome  of  the  fame 
kind  of  birds  ill  Egypt.  Hence  we  fee,  that 
migrating  birds  are  not  at  all  obliged  to  go  to  the 
fame  climate  or  country ;  but  it  is  fufficient  for  them 
to  find  a  place  where  the  air  is  temperate,  and  food 
in  plenty,  in  which  they  may  winter ;  neither  do 
thofe  which  winter  in  Egypt,  come  from  the  fame 
places  as  thofe  that  winter  in  Natolia ;  for  I  have 
found  by  experience^  that  birds  go  in  a  dire<5l  line 
from  North  to  South,  and  never  take  their  courfe 

*  Lin.  Syft.  Nat.  P.  I26.  24.    ^  Lin.  S)  11.  Nat.  P.  16 1 .  N.  1 3. 
P.  from 


210  BIRDS. 

from  Eafl  to  Weft,  or  Weft  to  Eaft.  Hence  it  feems 
probable,  that  thofe  which  winter  in  Natolia,  come 
from  the  borders  of  Mufcovy,  Tartary,  &c.  and 
thofe  which  winter  in  Egypt,  from  the  oppofite 
parts  of  Greece  and  Southern  Europe. 


The  Birds  of  Damiata  in  Egypt,  1751. 

Fulica  atra.     The  Coot. 

Anas  grifea  mediocris,  roftro  apice  piano  late  ro- 
tundato.     The  grey  Duck. 

Pelecanus  Onocrotalus, 

TpHE  Pelecan,  I  faw  at  Damiata,  was  quite  white; 
and  that  I  faw  at  Smyrna  was  of  a  greyiih,  or 
dark  colour.  The  inhabitants  of  Damiata  make  a 
veflel  out  of  the  upper  part  of  the  beak,  with  which 
they  lade  the  water  out  of  their  boats. 

Anas  Cygnus  s.    The  Swan. 
I  'saw  this  on  the  coaft  of  Damiata,  near  Egypt. 

Poulle  de  Ris  of  the  French. 

This  is  of  the  Hen  tribe  (Ordo  Gallinaceus 
Linncei.)  Corolla  coccinea,  reflexa  in  vertice.  It  is 
plentiful  in  the  fields,  during  the  growth  of  the 
Rice.  The  feafon  was  not  yet  come,  in  which  it 
might  be  procured ;  for  about  this  time  thefe  birds 

g  Lin.  Syft.Nat.  P.  122.  N.  x. 

are 


BIRDS.  211 

are  fcattered  over  the  defarts,  and  hatch  their 
young.  They  come  in  May,  and  the  following 
months,  taking  up  their  quarters  in  the  Rice  fields, 
eating  the  valuable  food  which  nature  defigned  for 
them. 


The  Animals    which  I  faw   in  the 
Holy  Land. 

(^U  A  D  R  U  P  E  D  E  a 

I.  Hyftrisecriflata.     The  Porcupine. 
IN  the  mount  of  Temptation  near  Jordan, 

2.  Canis  aureus.     The  JackcalL     Chical  of   the 
Turks. 

In  the  hedges  near  Jaffa. 

3.  Canis  Vulpes.    The  Fox. 

In  the  vineyards  near  Bethlehem  and  Philift^ea,  in 
great  plenty. 

4,  Capra  Cervicapra*   The  Rock  Goat, 
In  mount  Thabor. 

5,  Cervus  Dama.   Fallow  Deer. 
In  mount  Thabor, 

P  2  BIRDS, 


212  BIRDS. 

BIRDS. 

6.  Vultur  Percnopterus.  The  Egyptian  Vulture. 
Near  Jerufalem. 

7.  Fal^o  Gentilis.   The  Falcon. 
With  the  Arabs. 

8.  Falco  Tinnunculus.   Keflrell. 
In  the  mountains  near  Nazareth. 

9.  Vultur.    A  Vultur. 
Near  Cana  in  Galilee. 

10.  Corvus  Monedula.   The  Jackdaw. 
In  numbers  in  the  oak  woods  near  Galilee. 

1 1.  Picus  viridis.  The  Green  Wood  Spite. 
At  the  fame  place. 

12.  Merops  Apiafler.    The  Bee-catcher. 

In  the  groves  and  plains  between  Acra  and 
Nazareth. 

13.  Motacilla  Lufcinia.    Nightingale. 

Amongst  the  willows  at  Jordan,  and  Olive-trees 
of  Judea. 

14.  Alauda  arvenfis.    The  Field  Lark. 

Every  where. 

15.  Frirtgilla 


BIRDS,  213 

15.  FringillaCarduelis.    Goldfinch. 
In  the  gardens  near  Nazareth. 

1 6.  Tetrao  rufus.    The  Red  Partridge. 

17.  Tetrao  Ifraelitarum.  The<^ail  of  the  Ifraelites. 
In  the  defarts  near  the  Dead  Sea. 

t8.  Tetrao  Coturnix.    The  Quail. 
In  Galilee. 

19.  Columba  Turtur.   The  Turtle  Dove. 

20.  Columba  Palumbus.  Ring  Dove. 
In  Galilee. 


CLASSIS 


214  AMPHIBIA. 


C     L     A     S     S     I     S      III. 

AMPHIBIA. 


53.  Lacerta  crocodilus.   The  Crocodile. 

54.  Lacerta  chamaeleon.    The  Chamseleon. 
5^.  Lacerta  flellio.    The  Lizard  Stellio. 

^6.  Lacerta  sgyptia.   The  Egyptian  Lizard. 

57.  Lacerta  gecko.   The  Lizard  Gecko. 

58.  Lacerta  fcincus.    The  Seine. 

$^.  Lacerta  nilctica.    The  Lizard  of  the  Nile. 

60.  Coluber  vipera.  The  Viper  of  the  Shops. 

61.  Coluber  ceraftes.    The  horned  Viper. 

62.  Coluber  haje.    The  Viper  Haje. 

63.  Colubri  du2e  fpecies.    Two  Species  of  Vipers. 

64.  Anguis  jaculus.  The  Snake  Jaculus. 
6^.  Anguis  colubrina.  The  Viper  Snake. 
66.  Anguis  ceraftes.    The  horued  Snake, 

Lacerta  Crocodilus  %    The  Crocodile, 

T^  HE  Crocodile  fwallows  ftones  to  aftift  digeftion, 

-*■     after  the  manner  of  feed-eating  birds,  which 

commit  to  the  ftomach  the  work  of  maftication,  as 

*i,inn.  Eyftem.  Nat.  Pag.  200.  No,  i. 

well 


AMPHIBIA.  215 

well  as  conco6lion,  being  deftitute  of  the  inflruments 
adapted  to  that  purpofe. 

The  Egyptians  fay  that  his  excrements  do  not  pafs 
through  the  anus :  this  feems  to  be  confirmed  by  the 
flru£lure  of  the  gut,  which  is  near  the  Pylorus ;  for  it 
cannot  eafily  be  conceived,  that  excrements  Ihould 
pafs  thro'  fo  narrow  a  paffage,  feemingly  deilined  for 
the  conveyance  of  the  Chyle  only;  but  the  ftru£ture 
of  the  parts,  and  the  Gut  being  fo  near  the  Pylorus, 
feem  to  indicate  that  the  excrements  pafs  through  it 
into  the  Ventricle,  and  are  vomited  up.  The  inha- 
bitants above  Cairo  fay,  they  fee  this  daily,  and  ob- 
ferve  that  the  Crocodile  is  obliged  to  come  on  fliore 
as  often  as  he  has  occafion  to  eafe  himfelf.  There 
i?  a  Folliculus,  of  the  bignefs  of  a  Hazel  nut,  under 
the  Ihoulders  of  the  old  Crocodiles :  this  contains  a 
thick  matter,  which  fmells  like  muik.  The  Egyp- 
tians are  very  anxious  to  get  this  when  they  kill  a 
Crocodile,  being  a  perfume  much  efteemed  by  the 
grandees.  I  did  not  find  one  in  any  I  diflcifted. 
When  the  male  copulates  with  the  female,  he  turns 
her  with  his  fnput  on  her  back. 

The  eggs  of  the  Crocodile  are  larger  than  a 
Hen's  egg,  but  not  fo  large  as  that  of  a  Goofe,  be- 
ing covered  with  a  hard  cruft,  of  a  rugged  furface, 
and  a  cloudy  white  colour :  thefe  were  taken  out  of 
a  female  30  feet  long. 

The  Egyptians  ufe  the  fat  againfi:  the  Rheuma- 
tifm,  and  fliffnefs  of  the  tendons,  edeeming  it  a  pow- 
erful remedy  outwardly  applied. 

They  fay  the  gall  is  good  for  the  eyes :  they 
make  ufe  of  it  as  a  certain  remedy  for  barrennefs  in 
women,  taking  about  fix  grains  internally,  and  out- 
wardly they  apply  a  Pelfus,  made  of  cotton,  and  the 
gall  of  a  Crocodile. 

P  4  >     The 


»i6  AMPHIBIA. 

The  eyes  of  the  Crocodile  are  the  befl;  Aphro- 
dlfiac  of  any  known  by  the  Arabs,  who  prefer  it  to 
all  confeftions  of  Dia-fatyrii,  Hyacinthi,  &c.  and 
even  to  Amber-greafe. 

The  Crocodile  does  inexpreffible  mifchief  to  the 
common  people  of  Upper  Egypt,  often  killing  and 
devouring  women  who  come  to  the  river  to  fetch 
Water,  and  children  playing  on  the  fhore,  or  fwim- 
ing  in  the  river.  In  the  ftomach  of  one  differed 
before  the  Englifli  Conful,  Mr.  Barton,  they  found 
the  bones  of  the  kgs  and  arms  of  a  woman,  with 
the  rings  which  they  wear  in  Egypt  for  ornaments. 

He  breaks  the  nets  of  the  fiiliermen,  if  they  come- 
in  his  way,  and  they  are  often  expofed  to  great 
danger,  1  found  a  fifliing  hook  in  the  palate  of  the 
Crocodile  which  I  difledled. 

Job,  in  c.  iv.  v.  20,  aflceth,  "  Can  a  man  draw  up 
the  Leviathan  (Crocodile  ?)"  And  anfwers  it  in  the 
negative ;  for  it  was  known  even  in  his  time,  that 
this  animal  polTeffed  the  art  of  deflroying  the  hooks 
and  other  utenfils  of  fiiliermen. 

I  TOOK  this  defcription  at  Cairo  from  one  alive, 
the  30th  of  January,  1751. 

LiNN.EiJs  hath  given  a  defcription  of  the  external 
parts  of  this  creature,  in  the  firil  volume  of  his 
Amcenitates  Academ.  p.  122, 

54,  Lacerta  Chamoeleon^.    The  Chamaeleon, 

I  FOUND  the  remains  of  various  infe6^s  in  its 
ftomach,  viz.  Tipulae,  Coccionellas  and  Butterflies. 
I  faw  part  of  an  entire  ear  of  Barley  in  the  excre- 
ments, which  is  very  fmgular,  I  could  "not  find  the 
Vefica  Urinaria  (Bladder). 

This  animal  is  very  fubje^i:  to  the  Jaundice,  ef-. 
pecinlly  if  it  is  ms.de  angry  ^  it  feldom  changes  un- 


AMPHIBIA.  217 

lefs  it  is  made  angry,  from  black  to  a  yellow,  or 
greenifli  colour,  that  of  its  gall;  which  laft,  being 
tranfmitted  into  the  blood,  appears  very  plain,  as  the 
mufcles  of  the  Chamasleon  are  very  thin,  and  the 
ifkin  tranfparent  or  pellucid. 

This  Lizard,  of  which  the  ancients  have  related 
fo  many  true  and  fabulous  flories,  and  which  is 
known  to  all  writers  in  Natural  hiilory,  under  the 
compound  name  of  Chameleo,  I  procured  alive  cibout 
this  time,  when  the  fpring  had  induced  it  to  leave 
the  retreat  wherein  it  had  pafTed  the  winter.  This 
elegant  creature  is  frequently  found  in  the  neigh" 
bourhood  of  Smyrna,  particularly  near  jhe  village 
Sedizeud :  here  it  climbs  the  trees,  and  runs 
amongll  the  flones.  The  people  of  the  country 
told  me  that  it  lived  in  hollow  trees ;  I  have  nor 
been  an  eye  witnefs  of  this,  but  have  often  feen 
it  climb  on  the  branches  of  the  Olive-tree, 
Plane,  &c.  Every  one  knows  the  qualities  attri- 
buted to  this  animal ;  that  it  changes  colour,  and 
lives  on  air,  without  requiring  other  food. 

I  DID  not  fail  making  all  the  enquiry  I  could  con- 
cerning its  nature,  in  a  place  where  it  is  fo  fre- 
quently found.  The  inhabitants  told  me  that  it 
would  alTume  the  colour  of  a  piece  of  cloth,  or  other 
painted  or  coloured  fubflance,  which  might  be  put 
before  it.  Some  have  alTured  me  that  it  lives 
only  on  air,  but  others  have  told  me  that  they  have 
feen  it  catching  a  fort  of  very  fmall  flies. 

I  WILL  now  relate  what  I  obferved  myfelf,  in  one 
I  kept  alive  a  confiderable  time;  and  firft  concernkig 
the  colour.  I  could  never  obferve  that  it  affumed 
the  colour  of  any  painted  objeft  prefented  to  its 
view,  though  I  have  made  many  experiments,  with 
all  kinds  of  colours,  on  different  things.  Flowers, 
Cloth,  Paintings,  &c.  Its  natural  colour  is  iron- 
grey, 


2i8  AMPHIBIA. 

grey,  or  black  mixed  with  a  little  grey.  This  It 
fometimes  changes,  and  becomes  entirely  of  a  brim- 
ftone  yellow:  this  is  the  colour  I  have  feen  it 
mod  frequently  alTume,  except  that  firll  mentioned. 
I  have  feen  it  affame  a  darker  yellow,  approach- 
ing fomewhat  to  a  green,  fometimes  a  lighter ;  at 
which  time  it  was  in  colour  more  inclined  to  a 
white  than  a  yellow.  I  have  not  obferved  him  to 
aflume  any  more  colours;  fuch  as  red,  blue,  purple, 
&c.-  I  am,  for  this  reafon,  inclined  to  beheve,  that 
all  which"  has  been  faid  concerning  the  changing  and 
fhifting  of  colours  in  the  Chamasleon,  confiils  only 
in  this,  that  on  certain  occalions  it  changes  the 
dark  colour,  which  feems  to  be  natural  to  it,  into 
yellow,  of  various  (hades.  This  change  it  makes 
frequently.  I  obferved,  that  it  more  particu- 
larly did  it  on  two  occafions;  one  was  when  I  ex- 
pofed  it  to  the  hot  beams  of  the  fun,  and  the 
other  when  I  made  it  angry,  which  I  did  by  point- 
ing at  it  with  my  finger.  When  it  was  chang- 
ing from  black  to  yellow,  the  foles  of  its  feet 
(Plantas  &  Palm^e  Pedum)  its  head,  and  the  bag 
under  its  throat  (Gula  faccata)  began  firft  to  change, 
which  was  afterwards  continued  over  the  whole 
body.  I  faw  it  feveral  times  fpeckled,  or  marked 
with  large  fpots  of  both  colours  over  the  whole 
body,  which  gave  it  an  elegant  appearance. 
When  it  was  of  an  iron  grey  colour,  it  extended 
its  fides,  or  ribs,  and  hypochondria,  which  made  the 
fkin  fit  ciofe  to  the  body,  and  it  appeared  plump 
and  handfome;  but  as  foon  as  it  turned  yellow,  it 
contracted  thofe  parts,  appearing  thin,  empty,  lean, 
and  ugiy;  and  the  nearer  it  approached  in  colour 
to  white,  the  emptier  and  uglier  it  feemed,  but  it 
appeared  word  in  regard  to  Ihape,  when  it  was 
fpeckled.  I  kept  this  creature  alive  for  twenty- 
four 


AMPHIBIA.  219 

four  days,  from  the  8th  of  March  to  the  ifl  of 
April,  without  affording  it  an  opportunity  of 
taking  any  food,  yet  was  it  nimble  and  lively  during 
the  whole  time,  climbing  up  and  down  in  its  cage, 
fond  of  being  near  the  light,  and  conflantly  rolling 
its  eyes,  which  are  indeed  admirable  :  I  could  how- 
ver,  at  laft,  plainly  perceive  that  it  waxed  lean, 
and  fuffered  for  hunger.  It  could  no  longer  hold 
faft  by  the  grating  of  the  cage,  but  fell  thro'  weak- 
nefs,  when  a  Turtle,  which  was  kept  in  the  fame 
room,  bit  it,  and  haftened  its  death.  1  have  feen 
the  Chamseleon  of  Egypt,  but  it  is  lefs  than  the 
Afiatic,  and  is  not  often  met  with. 

55.  Lacerta  Stellio<=.    The  Lizard  Stellio, 

This  creature  frequents  the  ruinous  walls  of  Na- 
tolia,  Syria,  and  Palasftine.  The  Arabs  call  it 
Hardun.  The  Turks  kill  it;  for  they  imagine, 
that  by  declining  the^  head,  it  mimicks  them  when 
they  fay  their  prayers. 

^6.  Lacerta  (^gyptia)  cauda  verticillata  fquamis 
denticulatis,  pedibus  penta-da6lylis.  The  Egyptian 
Lizard.     Lacerta  Cordylus  "^  ? 

This  is  found  in  the .  mountains   and  plains  of 
Egypt. 

5  7, '  Lacerta  Gecko  ^     The  Lizard  Gecko, 

This  is  very  frequent  at    Cairo,  both    in  the 
houfes  and  without  them.     The  poifon  of  this  ani- 

<:  Lin.  Syft.  Nat.  P.  202.  N.  10.      '^  P.  202.  9.      ^  P.  205. 
N.  zi, 

mal 


220  AMPHIBIA, 

mal  is  very  fingular,  as  it  exhales  from  the  Lobulf 
of  the  toes.  The  animal  feeks  all  places  and  things 
impregnated  with  fea  fait,  and  paffing  over  them 
feveral  times,  leaves  this  very  noxious  poifon  behind 
Jt.  In  July,  1750,  I  faw  two  women  and  a  girl,  in 
Cairo,  at  the  point  of  death,  from  eating  cheefe 
new  falted,  bought  in  the  market,  and  on  which 
this  animal  had  dropt  its  poifon.  Once  at  Cairo,  I 
had  an  opportunity  of  obferving  how  acrid  the  ex- 
halations of  the  toes  of  this  animal  are,  as  it  ran 
over  the  hand  of  a  man  who  endeavoured  to  catch 
it;  there  immediately  rofe  little  puftules  over  all 
thofe  parts  the  animal  had  touched;  thefe  were 
red,  inflamed,  and  fmarted  a  little,  greatly  refem- 
bling  thofe  occafioned  by  the  flinging  of  nettles.  It 
emits  an  odd  found,  efpecially  in  the  night,  from  its 
throat,  not  unlike  that  of  a  frog. 

58.  Lacerta  Scincus  *".    The  Seine. 

This  is  found  in  Petrasa  Arabia  near  the  Red  Sea, 
and  in  Upper  Egypt,  near  the  Nile.  It  is  much 
ufed  by  the  inhabitants  of  the  Eaft  as  an  aphrodi- 
fiacum,  but  not  at  this  time  by  the  Europeans.  The 
fieih  of  the  animal  is  given  in  powder,  with  fome 
ftimulating  vehicle;  broth  made  of  the  recent  flelh, 
is  likewife  ufed  by  the  Arabs.  It  is  brought  from 
Upper  Egypt  and  Arabia,  to  Alexandria,  whence  it 
is  carried  to  Venice  and  Marfeilles,  and  from  thence 
to  all  the  apothecaries  fhops  of  Europe.  It  has  been 
an  error,  common  to  almoll  all  authors,  to  imagine 
the  Scincus  to  be  a  fifli. 

f  Lin.  Syft.Nat.  P.  205.   N.  22. 

59.  Lacerta 


AMPHIBIA.  221 

59.  Lacerta  (nilotica)  cauda  tereti  longa,  corpore 
toto  glabro,  fquamis  angulo  obtufo  notatis.  The 
Lizard  of  the  Nile. 

This  Is  met  with  in  the  moifL  places  of  Egypt, 
near  the  Nile.  The  Egyptians  fay,  that  this  Lizard 
proceeds  from  the  eggs  of  the  Crocodile  hatched  in 
the  fand,  but  that  the  Crocodile  proceeds  from  thofe 
which  are  laid  in  the  water.  I  need  not  add,  that 
this  is  in  every  refpeft  falfe. 

60.  Coluber  Vipera  2.     The  Viper  of  the  Shops. 

It  is  found  in  Egypt,  and  affords  all  thofe  prepa- 
rations which  are  to  be  had  in  the  fliops :  Sal  Vi- 
perce,  Viperarum  caro  exficcata,  Trochifci  viperini, 
are  prepared  from  this  Viper,  fufficient  for  the  in- 
habitants, and  for  Europe.  A  confiderable  quan^ 
tity  is  yearly  carried  to  Venice,  to  make  treacle  j 
and  this  is  the  true  Viper  of  the  Shops. 

61.  Coluber  Cerailes  ^.    The  horned  Viper, 
It  is  a  native  of  Egypt. 

62.  Coluber  Haje',    The  Viper  Haje, 

The  Arabs  call  it  Haje.  It  is  found  in  Egypt. 
When  angry,  it  blows  up  its  throat  and  neck  to  four 
limes  the  fize  of  its  body. 

s  Lin.  Syft,  Nat.  P.  216.    ^?.  217.    'P.  225. 

63,  Ifaw 


222  AMPHIBIA. 

6^.  I  faw  two  fpecies  of  Vipers  at  Cyprus. 
r.  One  is  called  Afpic ;  of  this  they  relate  : 

(a)  That  it  contains  the  moft  fubtile  poifon,  kill- 
ing within  a  few  hours,  with  a  univerfal  Gangraene. 

(b)  That  it  changes  its  colour  to  that  of  the 
ground  on  which  it  lies,  ufmg  this  faculty  as  a  ftra- 
tagem,  the  better  to  enable  it  to  feize  its  prey. 

2.  Of  the  other  they  fay  : 

(a)  That  it  is  at  enmity  with  the  firft,  and 
kills  it. 

(b)  That  one  devours  others  of  its  own  fpecies. 

(c)  That  it  feizes  on  Larks,  Sparrows,  and  other 
birds,  with  an  incredible  agility,  whilll  they  are  at 
reft,  devouring  them  entire  j  and  this  I  have  myfelf 
feen. 

64.  Anguis  jaculus^.  .The  Snake  Jaculus. 

65.  Anguisfcolubrina^.    The  Viper  vSnake. 

66.  Anguis  ceraftes™.     The  horned  Snake. 
These  three  are  all  met  with  in  Egypt. 

.  ^  Lin.  Syft.  Nat.  V.  228     ^  P.  zzS,    '^  P.  228. 


CLASSIS 


H.  ,223 


C    L    A    S    S    I    S       IV. 

P   I  S   C   E   S.        F    I    S    H. 


67.  Mursena  anguilla  ^.     The  Eel. 

68.  Echencis  neucrates^.     Sucking  fifli. 

Alexandria.     The  Arabs  call  it  Chamel  or  Ferr- 
hun  :  it  is  very  rare  in  thefe  waters. 

65).  Gobius  paganellus  *^.     Gudgeon, 
Harbour  of  Smyrna. 

70.  Scorpsena  porcus '^^ 
Harbour  of  Smyrna. 

71.  Chsetodon  nigrefcens  ®. 
The  Red  Sea. 

72.  Sparus  nlormyrus  ^. 
Harbour  of  .Smyrna. 

=»Lin.  Syft.Nat.P.  225.N.4.  ^P..26i.N.  2.  «P.263.N.  2. 
^  P.  266.  N.  I .  « P.  274.  N.  9.  f  P.  28 1 .  N.  20. 

73.  Sparus 


%24  FISH. 

73.  Sparus  auratas.     Gilt  Head. 
Smyrna. 

74.  Sparus  orieiitalis. 
Smyrna. 

75.  Sparus  niloticus. 
Nile.     The  inhabitants  call  it  Giralle. 

76.  Sparus  galil^us  ^. 
Lake  Genazereth  in  Galilee. 

77.  Labrus  Pavo '. 
The  Mediterranean,  on  the  coafts  of  Syria. 

78.  Labrus  niloticus  ^. 

This  is  the  bed  filh  of  the  Nile.    The  Arabs 
call  it  Buki. 

79.  Labrus  orientalis. 
Smyrna. 

80.  Sciasna  umbra  K 

The  Mediterranean  fea,  neat  Damiata.    The 
Arabs  call  it  Schifsch. 

81.  Perca  segyptia.    -Egyptian  Perch. 

The  Mediterranean  and  Egypt.     The  Arabs 
call  it  Charms. 

8Lin.Syft,Nat.P.277.N.  1.  ^P.  282.N.  22,  IP.283.N.8. 
^  P.  286.  N.  24.    ^  P.  289,  N.  4. 

$2.  Perca 


t'         1         S         U,  22S 

Sii  Perca  nilotica  °*.    The  Perch  of  the  Nile* 

The  Nile,  near  and  above  Cairo.  The  Arabs 
call  it  Kefchr :  the  French,  who  dwell  in  Egypt, 
Variole.  The  fleih  has  a  fweet  and  exquifite  fla- 
vour, and  is  not  hard,  but  very  white.  It  is  one  of 
the  beft  fillies  of  the  Nile ;  and  as  it  is  of  the  iargefl 
fize  in  Egyptj  it  adorns  a  table,  if  brought  on  it  en- 
tire, and  well  fryed. 

83.  Perca  Luth,    The  Damiatic  Perch, 
Damiata;     The  Arabs  call  it  Luth. 

84*  Scomber  Trachurus  ^i 
The  Mediterranean  fea  j  Smyrna. 

85*  Gafterofleus  Du^lor  °» 
The  Mediterranean* 

86,  Silurtis  ClariasP^ 

It  lives  in  the  Nile,  and  is  called  Scheilan  by  the 
Arabians.  If  it  pricks  any  one  with  the  bone  of  the 
bread  fin,  it  is  dangerous,  being  poifonous.  I  have 
feen  the  cook  of  a  Swedifli  merchant-ihip  die  of 
the  prick  of  this  filh, 

87.  Silurus  anguillaris  1. 

It  is  found  in  the  Nile,  about  Rofetta  and  Cairo. 
The  Arabs  call  it  Gharmuth. 

«»  Lin.  Syft.  Nat.  P.  290.  N.  5.  "P.  298*  N.  6.  °  P.  295. 2. 
P  P.  306,  N.  10,  5  P.  305  iN.  5. 

(4  88.  Silurus 


2i6  FISH. 

88.  Sllurus  Myflus'. 
The  Nile,  near  Cairo. 

8cj>  Salmo  nildticus  *.     The  Salmon  of  the  Nile. 

The  Nile,  near  Cairo.  This  fiili  frequently 
weighs  loolb.  The  Arabs  call  it  Nefafch.  The 
flefh  is  fweet,  and  one  of  the  beft  in  the  Nile. 

90.  Atherina  Hep  fetus  ^ 

The  harbour  of  Smyrna.  The  Turks  call  it 
Jumifch  baluk,  i.  e.  Silver  fi(h. 

pr.  Mugil  Cephalus".     The  Mullet. 

The  Mediterranean  Seaj  Smyrna;  Nile.  The 
Arabs  call  it  Buri. 

92.  Clupea  Alofa  ^.     A  kind  of  Herring. 

The  Mediterranean  Sea  at  Smyrna,  and  in  the 
Nile  near  Rofetta.  This  fifti  goes  up  almoft  as  high 
as  Cairo,  in  December  and  January:  they  fill  it 
with  wild  Marjoram,  and  fry  it,  when  it  almoft  in- 
toxicates the  eaters.  The  French  call  it  Sardaine ; 
the  Arabs  at  Cairo,  Sagboga.  This  fifh  eats  very 
well,  efpecially  if  fried  in  olive  oil,  or  butter. 

93*  Cyprinus  orlentalis. 

94.  Cyprinus  niloticus  ^. 

The  Nile. 

»Lin.Syft.  Nat  P.  305.N.  4.  '  P.  312.  N.  22.  '  P.  315.  i. 
■  P.  316.  N.  I.  ^  P.  318,  N.  13.  *  P.  322.  N.  9. 

95*  Cyprinus 


I 


•       FISH.  227 

95.  Cyprlnus  Dentex  y. 

The  Nile.     The  Arabs  call  it  Kalb  El  Bar,  i.  e. 
Sea  Dog. 

96.  Mdrmyrus  anguilloides^. 
The  Nile.     The  Arabs  call  it  Cafchive. 

97.  Tetraodon (Fahaka) corpore  teretuifculcabdo- 
mine  inflato  utrinque  aculeato,  infra  anum  glabro. 

The  Nile,  about  Cairo,  where  it  hath  been 
found  but  of  late,  and  never  known  in  former  times, 
according  to  the  inhabitants.  It  came,  perhaps., 
from  the  Mediterraneaut  The  Arabs  call  it  Fa- 
haka, and  fay  that  it  grows  to  a  prodigious  fize. 
When  it  is  iufl  caught,  it  pricks  the  fkin,  if  it  is 
taken  in  the  bare  hands,  and  produces  fmall  puftules, 
in  the  fame  manner  as  nettles.  This  I  have  been 
told  by  fifhermen  ;  who  likewife  informed  me,  that 
the  ileih  is  a  fudden  poifon.  I  have  never  had  an 
opportunity  of  trying  it. 

98.  Syngnathus  marinus.    ' 
/  Lin.  Syft.  Nat.  P.  325.  N.  25.    =  P.  327.  N.  2. 


0^2  C  L  A  S  S  I  S 


228  INSECTS. 


C     L     A     S     S     I     S        V. 
INSECT  A.      INSECTS. 


pp.  Scarabseus   Ceratoni^.     The   Beetle   of  the 
Carob-tree. 

100.  Curculio  Cypri.     The  Weevel  from  Cyprus. 

1 01.  Meloe  CIchorii.    The  Bliftering  Fly  of  the 

Ancients. 

102.  Cerambyx  fmyrnenfis.    The  Capricorn  Beetle 

from  Smyrna. 
.J03.  Gryllus  arabicus.    The  Locufl  from  Arabia. 
"^04.  Sphinx  Atropos. 

105.  Phalsena  fieus.    The  Moth  of  the  Fig-tree. 

106.  Phalasna. 

107.  Phal^na  amygdaU  f rutins.    The  Moth  of  the 

Almond. 

108.  Phaltena  Mori.    The  Silk  Worm. 

109.  Panorpa  Coa. 

no.  Cynips  Pfenes.    The  Gall  Fly  of  the  Fig. 

111.  Cynips  Sycomori.     The    Gall    Fly   of    thci 

Sycamore. 

1 1 2.  Cynips  aegypti.    The  Egyptian  Gall  Fly. 
I J  3.  Tenthredo  fodomitica, 

114.  Tenthredodaftyli. 

115.  Ichneumon  natolicE, 

116.  Ichneumon  vitis. 

117.  Apis  mellif era.   The  Bee. 

118,  Culex 


IN    S    EC    T    S.  229 

i  18.  Culex  cypri.  The  Gnat  of  Cyprus, 
up.  Culex  aegypti.  The  Gnat  of  Egypt. 
120.  Mufra   buphthalmi.     The   Fly  of  the    Ox 

Eye. 
12 T.  Acarus  citri. 
122.  Acarus  teftudinis. 
125.  Aranea  galilasa.     The  Spider  of  Galilee. 

124.  Aranea  vitis.    The  Spider  of  the  Vine. 

125.  Aranea  Coa.    The  Spider  of  Coa. 

126.  Cancer  curfor.   The  Running  Crab. 

99.  Scarabaeus    ceratoni2e\    The   Beetk   of    tbe 
Carob-tree. 


I 


FOUND  this  at  Cairo,  feeding  on  the  leaves 
of  the  Carob-trec. 


ioo.  CurcUlio  (Cypri)  mediocris,  fufcus,  linea  lon- 
gitudinali  atra  in  dorfo.    The  Weevel  of  Cyprus. 

This  I  patched  at  Cyprus. 

1 01.  Meloe  cichorii  ^.    The  Bliflering  Fly  of  the 

Ancients. 

This  lives  and  feeds  on  the  flowers  of  Succory. 

102.  Cerambyx  fmyrnenfis.    The  Capricorn  Beetle 

of  Smyrna. 

I  FOUND  this  at  Smyrna,  in  the  burying  place  o£ 
the  Jews. 

J  03.  Gryllus  arabieus.     The  Arabian  Locufts. 
?  |,in.  Syft.  Nat  P.  353.  N.  57.    >»  P,  419.  N.  5. 

0^3  The 


236  INSECTS.- 

The  ufe  of  Locusts    for    Food  in 
Arabia. 


TjURING  my  ftay  in  Egypt,  I  ufed  every  means 
to  learn  whether  Locufls  are  to  this  day  eaten, 
either  in  this  or  the  neighbouring  countries.  I  was 
the  more  foHcitous  to  be  informed  of  this,  as  I  thought 
the  anfwer  would  determine  what  St.  John  Hved  on, 
in  the  defart.  Whether  the  aK^lSeg  of  this  holy  man 
are  Locufls,  according  to  the  hteral  fenfe  of  the 
word  in  all  Grecian  authors,  or  whether  thefe 
esV^/Jfg  are  the  fruit  of  fome  tree,  or  a  kind  of  birds. 
The  firll  has  been  the  opinion  of  all  interpreters 
of  the  fcriptures,  who  attended  only  to  the  contents 
of  them;  others,  who  have  tranflated  the  New- 
Teftament,  were  for  flaewing  their  refined  genius; 
afferting,  that  St.  John  never  eat  Locufls,  as  they  are 
an  unnatural  food,  never  ufed  by  any  body,  and  not 
adapted  for  fuflenance.  This  is  the  flrongefl  ar- 
gument, by  which  they  endeavoured  to  deflroy  the 
true  meaning ;  and  this  feigned  unnaturalnefs,  has, 
as  I  imagine,  occafioned  an  alteration,  where  there 
needs  none,  and  induced  fome  to  crack  their  brains 
in  finding  for  St.  John  other  food,  than  what  he  really 
cat,  during  the  rigorous  courfe  of  life  which  he  led 
in  the  defart.  If  it  can  be  demonflrated,  that  Lo- 
cufls are  to  this  day  eaten  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
the  place  where  St.  John  dwelt,  the  impoffibility  apd 
unnaturalnefs  of  this  diet  can  no  longer  be  afferted, 
and  the  weakefl  perfpn  will  form  the  following 
conclufion ; 

If 


INSECTS.  231 

If  Locufts  are  to  this  day  eaten  in  thofe  places, 
where  St,  John  dwelt,  I  cannot  fee  why  he  may  not 
have  lived  on  the  fame  infeft,  according  to  the  evan- 
gehc  hiftory,  which  therefore  needs  no  alteration. 
'A>c^»'(?£?  will  remain  what  they  have  been,  and  are 
neither  changed  to  birds  nor  fruit. 

A  TRAVELLER  is  the  Only  perfon  who  can  learn 
whether  Locufts  are  to  this  day  eaten  in  the  Eaft  ; 
to  accomplifh  his  defign,  he  muft  either  be  an  eye 
witnefs,  or  receive  informations  from  thofe]  who 
have  been  on  the  fpot,  where  they  could  know  the 
truth  of  it;  of  whofe  veracity  he  muft  be  as  well 
affured,  as  if  he  had  feen  and  eat  them  himfelf. 
Arabia  is  the  place  where  thefe  informations  are  to 
be  obtained,  a  country  inacceflible  to  Europeans :  it 
is  therefore  evident,  that  no  European  ever  could, 
or  perhaps  fcarcely  ever  will,  be  an  eye  witnefs  to 
the  truth  of  this.  Informations  and  relations  there- 
fore, procured  from  perfons  who  have  vifited,  and 
feen  the  cuftoms  of,  the  country,  on  which  one  may 
depend,  are  the  only  means  we  have  left  to  come  at 
the  truth;  and  thefe  I  have  earneftly  endeavoured  to 
obtain,  during  my  travels  in  Afia  and  Egypt.  I 
have  afked  Franks,  who  have  long  lived  in  the  Eaft, 
whether  they  ever  heard  that  Locufts  were  eaten 
there  ?  They  all  anfwered  in  the  affirmative,  and 
thofe  of  greateft  veracity  I  got  in  Egypt  (Chaffin, 
firft  French  interpreter  in  Alexandria,  who  had 
lived  thirty  years  in  Egypt)  and  Aleppo  (Bonard, 
French  Chancellor  in  Smyrna,  who  had  long  lived 
at  Aleppo)  being  the  places  where  fuch  informa- 
tions may  be  eafieft  obtained.  I  have  afked  Chrif- 
tians,  inhabitants  of  the  country,  Armenians,  Gre- 
cians, Coptites,  and  Syrians,  who  were  born  here, 
and  travelled  in  Syria,  near  the  Red  Sea  and  Egypt, 
if  they  knew  whether  the  Arabians  eat  Locufts  ^ 

(^4  All 


232  INSECTS. 

All  anfwered,  that  they  have  partly  feen.  them,  cat 
liiem,  and  partly  heard  it  faid  that  they  were  ^ 
eommon  food  ainongft  the  Arabians.  But  the  in- 
formations I  had  from  Greeks,  who  had  travelled  to 
mount  Sinai,  are  thofe  I  can  mofl  depend  on;  for 
the  Grecian  chiuxh  has  a  noted  convent  there.  The 
Arabians  live  in  the  places  adjacent  and  near  it, 
wherefore  they  have  a  good  opportunity  of  inform- 
ing themfelves  of  their  cufloms :  I  at  length  met 
with  a  perfon  who  gave  me  better  informations,  and 
ilronger  alTurances  than  all  the  reft.  This  was  a 
Scheck,  with  whom  I  was  acquainted  at  Cairo ;  one 
of  the^  moil  learned  and  moft  ingenious  of  any 
there,  who  had  been  fix  years  at  Mecca.  Him  I 
aiked,  in  the  prefence  of  Mr.  Le  Grand,  the  prin- 
cipal French  interpreter  at  Cairo ;  and  Mr.  Four- 
mcnt  (nephew  to  the  learned  Fourmont  in  Paris, 
who  was  fent  hither  at  the  expence  of  the  royal 
French  academy,  to  learn  the  Eaftern  languages) 
whether  he  knew  that  the  Arabs  fed  on  Locufts  ? 
And  he  gave  me  the  following  anfwer:  "At  Mecca, 
which  is  furniihed  with  corn  from  Egypt,  there 
frequently  rages  a  famine,  when  there  is  a  fcarcity 
in  Egypi".  The  people  here  are  then  obliged,  as  in 
all  other  places  of  the  world,  to  fupport  life 
with  iinufuai  food.  Locufts  obtain  a  place  then 
amongft  their  victuals :  they  grind  them  to  flower 
in  their  hand  mills,  or  poM^der  them  in  ftone 
mortars:  they  mix  this  flower  with  water  to  a 
dougii,  and  make  thin  cakes  of  it,  which  they  bake 
like  other  bread,  on  a  heated  griddle;  and  this 
ferves  inftead  of  bread,  to  fupport  life,  for  want  of 
fomcthing  better."  I  further  enquired  whether  the 
Arabs  do  not  ufe  Locufts,  without  being  driven  by 
jieceflity  ?  Lie  anfwered,  that  it  is  not  uncommon  to 
fee  them  eat  Locufts,  when  there  is  no  famine;  but 

then 


I    N    S    E     C    T    S.  235 

di€ii  they  boil  them  a  good  while  in  water,  after- 
wards flew  them  with  butter,  and  make  a  fort  of 
fricaiTee;  which,  he  fays,  has  no  bad  tafte,  he 
having  tafced  thera.  I  further  enquired,  whether 
the  Locufls  of  the  Arabians  were  different  from 
thofe  in  Egypt  ?  He  anfwered,  No ;  and  faid  he 
had  feen  none  in  Arabia,  but  thofe  he  had  feen 
in  Egypt,  of  larger  and  fmaller  kinds ;  that  they 
take  little  and  big,  without  di(l:in£lion,  for  this  ufe; 
and  that  at  certain  feafons  of  the  year,  thefe  in- 
fers are  as  common  in  Arabia,  as  they  are  fcarce  in 
Egypt,  at  this  time;  where  they,  at  leaft,  never  oc- 
cafion  a  plague  to  the  country,  as  they  do  in  other 
places. 

1 04.  Sphinx  Atropos  <^. 
This  is  fometimes  found  in  the  houfes  of  Cairo. 

I  ©5.  Phalasna   (Ficus)   minima    gregaria   Candida. 
The  Moth  of  the  Fig-tree. 

I  FOUND  this  between  Acra  and  Tyre,  fitting  on 
the  Fig-trees;  near  the  road  which  Alexander 
made  for  the  pafTage  of  his  army. 

106.  Phalsena  parva  atra  fubtus  ferruginea. 

This  I  found  on  the  mountain  of  Precipitation, 
near  Nazareth. 

107.  Phalsena  amy gdahfruclus. 

It  is  odd,  that  Almonds  cheriili  a  Moth,  when 
moft  other  fruits  nourifh  a  Dermefles,  Tenthredo,  or 
fome  other  infeft. 

108.  Phal^namori^.     The  Silk  Worm. 
«^  Lin.  Syft.  Nat  P.  490.  N.  8.     dp.  ^p^.  n.  18. 

I  The 


234  INSECTS. 

The  manner  of  breeding  Silk  Worms 
in  Syria. 


THE  eggs  are  laid  in  a  warm  room:  the  women 
often  carry  them  in  their  bofoms,  or  lay  them  be- 
tween the  bolfters  in  a  bed,  where  they  are  hatched ; 
and  to  the  Worms  they  immediately  give  Mulberry 
leaves,  to  which  they  ftick  faft.      They  eat  and 
grow  for  forty  days,  all  that  time  laying  on  flages 
made   of  reed,  in  an   arbour  formed  of   boughs 
of  trees.     The  worms  are  covered  once  a  day  with 
Mulberry  leaves;  and  creeping  upon  thefe  leaves, 
they  feem  ahnofl  to  cover  them,  by  the  time  a  new 
layer  of  leaves  is  to  be  put  over  them.    When  they 
begin  to  change  colour,  the  people  fet  up  branches 
of  various  trees ;  thefe  they  climb  up,  and  begin  to 
fpin.     When  they  have  left  off  fpinning,  they  are 
taken   from  their  habitations ;  fuch  as  are   to  be 
ufed  for  (ilk,  which  is  by  much  the  greateft  part, 
are  laid  in  hot  water,  and  wound  on  a  reel ;  the  re- 
mainder are  kept  alive  to  be  transformed  into  moths, 
for  preferving  the  breed.     When  the  Moths  are 
come  forth,  the  attendants  fpread  a  black  carpet  in 
the  room;  on  this  they  lay  their  eggs,  which  are  pre- 
ferved  in  fmall  bags.    Thunder  frequently  deftroys 
the  worms,  and  Ants  are  their  enemies,  wherefore 
they  cannot  be  bred  in  Egypt.      Seyde  (Sidon)  ex- 
ports yearly  filk  to  a  great  value,  as  does  alfo  Tri- 
poli.   The  former  of  thefe  places  fends  the  greateft 
part   to  Damafcus,  where  they  manufacture   the 
beautiful  watered  half  filks,  viz.  Cotton  and  Silk 
mixf,  which  are  not  to  be  equalled  in  any  other 
4  part 


INSECTS.  235 

part  of  the  world.  Tripoli  fends  mod  of  its  filk  to 
Europe,  which  the  French  and  Englifti  carry  away. 
The  filk  which  comes  from  Baruth,  and  is  manu- 
fa^ured  on  Antiliban,  is  faid  to  excel  all  the  filks  of 
Syria. 

109.  Panorpa  Coa^. 

This  I  found  on  the  ifland  Meteline  and  Stan- 
chio  (formerly  Cous)  in  the  Archipelago. 

1 1  o.  Cynips  Pfenes  ^.   The  Gall  Fly  of  the  Fig. 

I  SAW  this  at  Smyrna.  It  lives  in  the  female  Figs, 
the  germina  of  which  I  have  obferved  to  be  eaten  by 
this  infeftjfindingoneof  them  in  almofl  every  germen. 

Is  this  infeft  the  Cupid  of  the  Fig,  carrying  the 
pollen  to  the  female  ?  The  Fig  is  to  be  confidered  as 
its  gall ;  it  eats  the  germen  of  the  figs,  and  does 
more  harm  than  good.  When  it  is  hatched,  does  it 
do  the  office  of  a  mediator  j*  (Vid.  Amoen,  acad.  torn, 
p.  41-) 

III.  Cynips  Sycomori  s.    The  Gall  Fly  of  the 
Sycamore. 

It  dwells  in  the  fruit  of  the  Sycamore. 

112.  Cynips  -^gypti.  The  Gall  Fly  of  Egypt. 

I  HAVE  found  this  in  the  leaves  of  various  trees 
in  Egypt,  but  particularly  the  Sycamore. 

'  Lin.  Syft-Nat,  P.  552.  N.  3.  ^  P.  554..  N.  13.  «P.554. 
N.  14, 

113,  Tenthredo 


t^6  INSECTS. 

113.  Tenthredo  fodomitica. 

I  HAVE  found  this  In  the  Mad  Apples,  near 
mount  Thabor  and  the  Dead  Sea. 

1 14.  Tenthredo  Da£lyli. 

This  I  found  in  the  ftem  of  a  Date  tree  at  Da- 
miata. 

r  f  5.  Ichneumon  Natoliae. 
Katoha. 

116.  Ichneumon  Vitis. 
I  SAW  this  oil  the' vine  a!t  Smyrna. 

J 17.  Apis  mellifera^    The  Common  Bee. 

The  Egyptian  Bee-hives  are  very  fingular  in 
their  kind.  They  are  made  of  coal  duft  and  clay, 
which  being  well  blended  together,  they  form  of 
the  mixture 'a  hollow  cylinder,  of  a  fpan  diameter, 
and  as  long  as  they  pleafe,  from  fix  to  twelve  feet: 
this  is  dried  in  the  fun,  and  becomes  fo  hard,  that  it 
may  be  handled  at  will.  I  faw  fome  thoufand  of 
thefe  hives,  at  a  village  between  Damiata  and  Man- 
fora;  they  compofed  a  wall  round  a  houfe,  after 
having  become  unferviceable  in  the  ufe  they  were 
firfl  fnade  for. 

«>  Lin.  Syft.  Nat.  P.  576.  N.  17. 

120.  Culej? 


INS    EC    T    S.  2s7 

1 1 8.  Ctriex  cypri  minimus  fubfufcus,  anteimis  bre- 
viirimis  fafciculis  plumolis,  alis  ovatls.  The  Gnat 
of  Cyprus. 

This  is  an  infeft  peculiar  to  Cyprus,  and  occa- 
fions  great  uneafmefs,  by  its  painful  bites  in  the 
night ;  which  leave  puifules  more  inflamed,  and 
longer  of  duration,  than  thofe  made  by  the  common 
Gnat. 

119.  Culex  asgypti  articulationibus  candidis.     The 

Gnat  of  Egypt. 

120.  Mufca    Buphthalmi.    The   Fly  of    the  ^  Ox 

Eye. 

This  is  found  in  the  common  Ox  Eye,  near 
Damiata  in  Egypt,  in  great  numbers. 

121.  Acarus  citri. 
I  HAVE  feen  this  infe£t  in  a  rotten  lemon. 

122.  Acarus  tefludinis. 
This  lives  on  the  Land  Turtle  at  Smyrna. 

123.  Aranea  galilsea.     The  Spider  of  Galilee. 

This  I  found  near  the  Fountain  of  Solomon  in 
Galilee. 

124.  Aranea  vitis.    The  Spider  of  the  Vine, 
This  I  found  on  the  -vines  in  Natolia. 

125.  Araaea 


6J8  INSECTS. 

125.  Aranea  coa.     The  Spider  of  Coa. 
Island  of  Stanchio,  in  the  Archipelago. 

ii6.  Cancer  Gurfor  ^     The  Running  Crab. 

This  lives  in  the  fea,  and  on  the  coafls  about 
Egypt  and  Syria :  I  took  it  on  the  coaft  of  Alex- 
andria, in  the  month  of  May. 

This  animal  is  very  fmgular,  coming  up  from  the 
fea  about  fun-fet,  and  running  very  fafl  on  the 
fandy  fhore,  in  great  numbers.  The  fituation  of 
the  eyes  in  the  feelers  (Antennas)  is  very  remark- 
able ;  the  fame  may  be  faid  of  the  ftrufture  of  the 
Antennse,  and  the  appendices  to  the  tail. 


C  L  A  S  S  I  S 


V    E    R    M    E    S.  i39 


:^^ 


C     L     A     S     S     I     S        VI. 

VERMES. 

127.  Sepia  oftopodia  ^.     The  Cuttle-fifh. 

128.  Pinna  muricata  ^ 

THE  Cuttle-fifti  (Sepia  oftopodia)  is  the  moft  in- 
veterate enemy  of  this  animal,  rufliing  in,  and 
devouring  it  as  foon  as  it  opens  the  lliell,  unlefs  pre- 
vented; but  there  being  always  one  or  more  Craw  fifh 
(Cancer  pinnotheris)  in  the  Ihell,  which  always  keep 
in  the  mouth  of  it,  when  the  animal  opens  it ;  and  as 
foon  as  the  enemy  advances,  the  Craw  fifh  gives  notice 
of  the  danger,  and  the  Pinna  fliuts  her  £b,ell.  The 
Craw  filh  is  permitted  to  live  within  the  fhell,  as  a 
recompenfe  for  its  trouble.  This  is  a  wonderful 
inftitution  of  the  moft  wife  Creator.  The  Greeks 
eat  this  during  Lent,  and  almoft  all  other  ihell  filh 
and  vermes ;  as  they  are  not  only  forbid  meat,  but 
all  kinds  of  filh. 

The  tentacula,  or  the  fibres  which  compofe  the 
beard  of  this  Ihell  filh,  are  as  fine  as  filk,  and  feera 
well  adapted  to  be  woven  or  raanufadlured,  if  they 
were  colle^led. 

*  Lin.  Syft.  Nat.  P.625.N.I.  ^^P.  658. N.  i.  'P.  707. N.  225. 

PLANT  JE. 


^6  PLANTS. 


PLANTS*       PLANTS. 


1.  Iris  tuberofa.    Flower-de-Luce* 

2.  Cornucopise  cucullatum.     The  Horn  of  Plenty 

Grafs* 
2.  Hypecoum  prociiitibens* 
jj.,  Anagallis  monelli.   Pimpernel 

5.  Mirabilis  jalappa.     Marvel  of  Peril. 

6.  Solanum  fanaum.    The  Night  Shade  of  Egypt- 

7.  Cordia  myxa.     Sebeften. 

8.  Lycium  atrum.     Boxthorn. 

9.  Chenopodium  asgyptiacura.     Egyptian  Goofc 

Foot. 

10.  Cicuta  Tirofa.    Water  Hemlock. 

1 1.  Linum  ufitatiffimum.     Flax. 

12.  Ornithogalum  umbellatum.    Umbellated  Star 

of  Bethlehem* 

13.  Aloe  perfoliata.    Mitre -fliaped  Aloe. 

14.  Lawfonia  fpinofa.    Alhenna. 

15.  Anagyris  fcetida.     Stinking  Bean  trefoil 
J  6.  Caffia  Sophera.    Wild  Senna. 

17. Fiftula. 

18. Ketfchta.    The  wild  Senna  of  Egypt 

19.  Punica  granatum.    Pomegranate. 

20.  Kofae  yariae.    Rofes. 

41.  Nymph«3L 


PLANTS.  241 

21.  Nymplicea  lotus.     The  Egyptian  Water  Lilly, 

22.  Mimofa  lebbeck.     Acacia  of  Upper  Egypt.~ 

23.  Mimofa  niiotica.     Gum  Arabic  Acacia. 

24.  Anemone  coronaria.   "Wind-flower  of  Natolia. 

25.  Clematis  orientalis.     Oriental  Virgins  Bower. 

26.  Origanum   ^gyptiacum.    Wild   Marjoram  of 

Egypt.  _ 

27.  Nepeta  fyriaca.     Syrian  Nep. 

28.  Orobanche  Icevis.     Broom  rape. 
29.'  Draba  verna.     Common  Madwort. 

30.  Lathyrus  cegyptiacus.      jSlgyptian   Chickling 

Vetch, 
3 1 :  Dolichos  lablab. 

32.  Carthamus  tinftorius.     Safflower. 

33.  Artemifia  dracunculus.     Tarragon. 

34.  Viola  odorata.     Sweet-fcented  Violet; 

35.  Arum  colocafia.     Colocafia. 

^6.  Urtica  dioica.     Great  Egyptian  Nettle. 

37.  riatanus  orientalis.     Oriental  Plane. 

3S.  Momordica  luffa.     Balfam  Apple  of  Egypt, 

39. Balfamina.     Balfam  Apple. 

40.  Cucurbita  lagenaria.    The  Bottle  Gourd. 
41. Citrullus.    Water  Melon. 

42.  Cucumis  fativus.     Cucumber. 

43.  —  Melo.     Melon. 

44.  — chate.     The  Queen  of  Cucumbers,  Ot 

Egyptian  Melon. 

45.  Rufcus  aculeatus.     Prickly  Knee-holly. 

46.  Ceratonia  filiqua.    Carob-tree. 

47.  Mufa  paradifiaca.    Plaintain-tree^ 

48.  Ficus  fycomorus.     The  Scripture  Sycamore.' 

49.  Phoenix  daftylifera.     The  Date-tree. 

50.  Bryum  segypti.     Egyptian  Bryam  Mofs, 


E  ji.  Irlj 


242  PLANT    S. 

I.  Iris  tuberofa  *.    Tuberous  Flower-dc-Lace. 
J  FOUND  this  at  Smyrna. 

2.  Cornucopije  cucullatum  ^.    The  Horn  of  Plenty 
Grafs. 

I  FOUND  this  plant  the  2 2d  of  March,  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  Smyrna,  towards  Barnaba :  this 
is  one  of  thofe  which  I  was  very  defirous  of  feeing. 
It  is  a  grafs,  in  appearance  quite  different  from  all  of 
its  tribe.  I  was  the  more  rejoiced  to  find  it,  as  it  has 
been  feen  and  defcribed  by  very  few  botanifts  in  its 
natural  ftate.  It  is  to  be  found  in  the  vales  round 
Smyrna,  and  has  not  been  met  with  growing  wild  in 
any  other  place  ;  nor  has  it  ever  entered  any  bota- 
nical garden.  I  have  defcribed  it  well,  gathered 
the  roots  of  it,  and  ufed  all  my  endeavours  to  have 
it  fent  to  the  botanical  garden  at  Upfal,  as  Pro- 
feflbr  Linnaeus  had  thought  proper  to  charge  me 
with  this  in  particular. 

g.  Hypecoum  procumbens*'. 

This  grows  near  the  garden  walls  at  Smyrna^ 
and  is  by  the  Turks  called  Blebleli  Tchidgeck.  The 
Bees  colled  much  honey  from  the  nedarium  of  the 
bloffom. 

4.  Anagallis  monelh  ^.     Blue  Pimpernel. 
This  grows  about  Smyrna. 

»  Lin.  Syft.  Nat.  P.  58.  N.  19.   "  P.  79.  N.  i.    =  P.  iSi. 

N,  U     d  p.  21  I.N.  2. 

5.  Mirabilis 


PLANTS.  24^;^*" 

5.  Mirabilis  jalapa«;     Marvel  of  Peru. 

This  is. cultivated  in  the  gardens  and  walks  at 
Cairo. 

6,  Solanum  fan6lum  ^.   The  Night  Shade  of  Egypt. 

The  Egyptians  call  it  Meringam.  The  fruit  is 
much  eaten  in  Egypt. 

7.  Cordia  myxa  S.     Sebeften. 

This  grows  in  the  gardens  of  Egypt;  the  fruit 
ripens  in  November,  and  is  tlie  Sebelten  of  the 
fliops. 

8.  Lycium  afrum  ^.     Box  Thorn. 

This  grows  on  the  banks  of  the  Nile  near 
Cairo. 

9.  Chsenopodium  segyptiacum.     Egyptian  Goofe- 
foot. 

This  grows  in  the  ruins  of  Alexandria,  near  th© 
coafts  of  the  Mediterranean  Sea,  and  flowers  in 
May.  The  Egyptians  ufe  it  in  fallads,  on  account 
of  its  faltifli-aromatic  talle,  which  is  agreeable. 
Kali  is  poffibly  m.ade  from  this  in  other  countries ; 
but  here  they  ufe  a  Fig-Marigold  (Mefembryanthe- 
mum)  which  likewife  grows  in  the  ruins  of  Alex- 
andria. 

\ 

'Lin.Syft.Nat.  P.2C2.N.  I.   fP.  26g.N.  26.  SP.  273.N.  i.' 
*P.  277.  N.  2. 

R  a  10.  Cicula 


H^'  PLANTS. 

10.  Cicnta  virofa  * .    Water  Hemlock. 

Tpiis  grows  in  plenty  on  the  banks  of  the  Nilcj. 
and  on  the  coafts  of  the  iflands.  I  faw  it  in  No- 
vember, 1750,  growing  on  an  ifland,  oppofite  that 
on  which  the  Nilometer  (the  houfe  where  the 
height  of  the  Nile  is  taken)  ftands,  and  though  all 
the  other  plants  on  the  ifland  were  greedily  de- 
voured by  the  oxen  and  cows,  yet  they  never  of- 
fered to  touch  this.  I  mud  in  this  place  refer  to 
the  Dillertation  de  Viribus  Plantar,  in  the  firft  vo- 
lume of  Linn.  Amoen.  Acad,  where  I  treated  on  the 
Marfli  Hemlock  and  Water  Hemlock.  The  above 
circumflance  confirms  v/hat  I  there  afferted,  and 
proves,  that  nature  a6ts  always  confiilently  with  her 
own  defigns. 

II.  Linum  ufitatiffimum '^.     Flax. 

This  is  much  cultivated  in  Egypt,  efpecially  the 
ifland  of  Delta,  and  near  Damiata.  A  confiderable 
quantity  is  yearly  exported  to  Venice  and  Leghorn. 
It  is  foft  and  good,  but  not  better  than  the  Euro- 
pean. They  make  to  this  day,  cloth  of  it  ih 
Egypt,  v/hich  is  coarfe,  and  of  little  value,  when 
compared  to  what  is  made  in  Europe ;  however,  the 
Turks  purchafe  it,  as  do  the  Europeans,  on  account 
of  its  cheapnefs.  By  what  we  can  fee  from  the 
linnen  wrapt  round  the  Mummies,  the  famous 
linnen  of  the  ancient  Egyptians,  was  not  better 
than  what  is  made  at  prefent  in  this  country.  But 
it  was  then  the  beft,  as  Egypt  alone  pofleffed  the 
art  of  cultivating  and  manufafturing  Flax.  The 
Egyptian  linnen  is  not  fo  thick  as  the  European, 

i  Lin.  Syft.Nat.P.  336.  I.    ^  P.397.N.  i, 

2  being 


PLANTS.  245 

being  fofter,  and  of  a  loofer  texture;  for  which 
reafon  it  lafts  longer,  and  does  not  wear  out  fo  fooii 
as  ours,  which  frequently  wears  out  the  fafter,  on 
account  of. its  ftifthefs.  The  common  people  in 
Egypt  are  cloathed  in  linnen  only,  dyed  blue  with 
indigo;  but  thofe  of  better  fortune  have  a  black 
cloak  over  their  fliirt,  or  linnen.  Flax  grows  very 
high  in  Egypt.  I  have  feen  a  ftem  four  foot  high, 
and  as  thick  as  the  flem  of  the  common  llufli.  ic 
flowers  in  winter. 

12.  Ornithogalum  umbellatum  ^    Umb ell ated  Star 
of  Bethlehem. 

I  FOUND  it  in  Smyrna, 

13.  Aloe  perfoliata  vera  ^.  Mitre-iliaped  Aloe» 

This  Is  a  kind  of  fymbolick  plant  to  the  Maho- 
metans, efpecialiy  in  Egypt,  and  in  fome  meafure 
dedicated  to  religion;  for  whoever  returns  from  a 
Pilgrimage  to  Mecca,  hangs  this  plant  over  his 
flreet  door,  as  a  token  of  his  having  performed  this 
holy  journey.  The  fuperftitious  Egyptians  be- 
lieve, that  this  plant  hinders  evil  fpirits  and'  apDa- 
ritions  from  entering  the  houfe ;  and  on  this  ac- 
count^ a  perfon  v/ho  walks  the  ftreets  in  Cairo,  will 
find  it  over  the  doors  of  Chriftians  and  Jews,  who 
have  in  all  ages  been  fond  of  trifles.  I  fcarcely  re- 
member to  have  feen  this  cuftom  any  where  but  in 
Cairo.  It  is  a  plant  very  common  m  the  gardens  of 
Egypt. 

The  Egyptians  diflil   a  water  from  this  plant, 
which  is  fold  in  the  apothecaries  fliops  at  Cairo,  and 

I  Lin.  Syft.  Nat  ?»  441.  N.  9.    ^  P.  458. 


24^  PLANT    S. 

^s  recommended  in  coughs.  It  is  likewife  given  with 
good  fuccefs  in  hyfterics  and  afthmas.  1  have  myfelf 
feen  its  good  efiedls  in  the  beginning  of  a  jaundice, 
unaccompanied  by  a  fever.  An  experienced  French 
chirurgeon  gave  a  Coptite,  forty  years  old,  afflifted 
with  the  jaundice,  four  tea-cups  full  of  the  diftilled 
v/ater  of  Aloe,  and  cured  him.  in  four  days.  This  is 
a  remedy  unknown  to  our  apothecaries,  but  it  cer- 
tainly merits  their  attention  ;  nor  is  it  difficult  to  ob- 
tain it,  as  the  plant  might  eafily  be  raifed  in  the 
Southern  parts  of  Europe.  The  Arabians  call 
it  Sabbara. 

14.  Lawfonia  fpinofa ".     The  true  Alhenna. 

This  plant  grows  in  India,  and  in  Upper  and 
Lower  Egypt,  flowering  from  May  to  Auguft.  The 
leaves  are  pulverized,  and  made  into  a  pafte  with 
water :  they  bind  this  pafle  on  the  nails  of  their 
hands  and  feet,  keeping  it  on  all  night.  This  gives 
them  a  ideep  yellow,  which  is  greatly  admired  by 
the  Eaftern  nations.  The  colour  lalts  for  three  or 
four  weeks,  before  there  is  occaiipn  to  renew  it. 
The  cuftom  is  fo  ancient  in  Egypt,  that  I  have 
feen  the  nails  of  the  Mummies  died  in  this  manner. 
The  powder  is  exported  in  large  quantities  yearly, 
^nd  auay  really  be  reckoned  a  valuable  commodity. 
The  Arabians  call  it  Chenna.  The  dried  flowers 
allbrd  a  fragrant  fmell,  which  women  who  have  con- 
ceived cannot  bear. 

15.  Anagyris  foetida  p.     Stinking  Bean-trefoil. 

This  grov/s  near  Smyrna,  and  flowers  in  Ja- 
nuary. 

«  Lin.  £)ft.  Nat.  P.  498.  *'P.  534.  N.  i. 

'-  '  '  16,  Caflla 


PLANTS.  247 

i^.  Cailia  fophera  p.     CafTia  or  "Wild  Senna. 

This  tree  is  cultivated  in  the  gardens  at  Cairo, 
and  by  the  Arabs  called  Sopher. 

1 7.  Caflia  fiflula  %    The  CafTia  FiHula. 

I  HAVE  feen  and  defcribed  this  plant  in  a  fertile 
plain,  near  the  canal,  which  leads  from  the  Nile  to 
Alexandria.  There  were  feveral  of  them  growing 
amongft  the  Date-trees,  being  about  twelve  feet 
high,  and  from  two  to  three  fpans  thick.  It  flow- 
ers in  May.     The  Arabs  call  it  Hearfciambar. 

18.  Caflia  Ketfchta. 

This  plant  is  a  native  of  India  and  Arabia,  but 
is  very  feldom  to  be  met  with  in  the  gardens  of 
Egypt,  where  I  faw  only  one  tender  Ihrub  of  it. 
I  have  been  informed  that  the  fruit  of  it  is  full  of  a 
thickiili  white  juice.    The  Arabians  call  it  Ketfchta, 

19.  Punicagranatum^.    Pomegranate-tree. 

I  MET  with  a  variety  of  this.  The  Item  was 
fmaller  than  in  the  common  fort ;  the  leaves  greener, 
and  the  flower  barren.  The  inhabitants  of  Cyprus 
called  it  Balauflia,  and  fhewed  it  me  as  a  fmgular 
tree,  becaufe  it  bore  no  fruit,  for  which  they  could 
not  account,  being  ignorant  of  the  myfteries  of 
nature. 

p  Lin.  Syft,Nat.  P.  542.  N.  22.  q  P.  540.  N.  14.  'P.  6-^6. 
N.  I. 

R  4  20.  Rofa 


24^  -P    X.    A    N    T    S. 

20.  Rofa^     TheRofe. 

The  Arabians  call  this  at  prefent  Uard,  which 
does  not  at  all  agree  with  the  Hebrew  name  Bar- 
kanim  Celfii  hierohotanicum  2.  p.  192.  Perhaps  the 
people  of  the  Eafl  have  given  different  names  to  the 
different  varieties,  fo  that  the  Hebrew  name  may 
have  been  formerly  given  to  B-ofa  damafcena  hort. 
Upf.  (Rofa  centifolia  Linn.)  but  the  Arabian  to  the 
Rofa  rubra  (Red  Rofes)  which  is  common  in  Arabia. 
At  this  time  Uard  is  the  name  given  to  all  the  va- 
rieties in  Egypt,  where  they  are  almoil  all  to  be 
had. 

Rofa  gallica  ^    Red  Rofes. 

These  are  common  in  the  gardens  at  Rofetta  and 
Damiata,  where  they  plant  them  for  the  purpofe  of 
making  rofe-water.  This  rofe  b^ars  fmall  flowers, 
and  thofe  of  no  ftrong  fcent ;  for  which  reafon  it  is 
cf  no  great  value  at  Cairo. 

Rofa  Cinnamomea  ".     The  Cinnamon  Rofe. 

This  is  fomewhat  fcarce.  It  is  cultivated  at  Da- 
iniata  and  Upper  Egypt  for  hs  beauty. 

Rofli  alba  ^.    V^Thite  Rofe. 

This  is  cultivated  in  confiderable  quantities  in  the 
province  Fa] hum,  of  Upper  Egypt,  not  far  from 
the  Pyramids.     It  is  of  a  pale  colour,  not  quite 

s  Linn.  Hort.  Upf.  132.  i.  Spec.  Plant.  704.  *  Spec.  PI.  8. 
Rofa  Rubra  Multiplex  Hort.  Upf.  13.  "  Spec.  PL  4.  Rofa  odo- 
ye  Cinnamonic,  fimplex  Hort.  Upf.  ^  Sp.  PI.  13^  Rofa  alba 
ffort;  Pleiio  Hort.  Upf. 

V/hite, 


PLANT    S.  249 

white,  but  rather  inclining  to  red;  the  flower  is 
double,  being  frequently  of  the  fize  of  a  man^s  fid, 
and  emit  the  mod  fragrant  odour  of  any  I  have  feen. 
The  flirubs  live  to  a  great  age.  From  this  fort  the 
Turks  and  Egyptians  diftil  the  water.  An  incredi- 
ble quantity  is  diftilled  yearly  at  Fajhum,  and  fold 
in  Egypt,  being  exported  to  other  countries.  An 
apothecary,  who  kept  a  iliop  in  the  ftreet  of  the 
Franks,  bought  yeai'ly  15001b.  (about  180  gallons) 
which  he  caufed  to  be  brought  to  the  city  in  copper 
veffels,  lined  with  wax,  felling  it  to  great  profit  at 
Cairo. 

The  Eaftern  people  ufe  the  water  in  a  luxurious 
manner,  fprinkling  it  on  the  hands,  face,  head,  and 
cloaths,  of  the  gueft  they  mean  to  honour,  after- 
wards perfuming  them  with  frankincenfe,  the  wood 
of  aloes,  &c. 

21.  Nymphsea  Lotus  ^.     Egyptian  Water  Lilly. 

This  grows  in  vaft  quantities  in  the  plains  of 
Lower  Egypt,  near  Cairo,  during  the  time  they 
are  under  water.  It  flowers  about  the  middle  of 
September,  and  ripens  towards  the  latter  end  of 
Oftober.     The  Arabians  call  it  Nuphar. 

22.  Mimofa  Lebbeck  7.     Acacia  of  Upper  Egypt. 

This  flowers  in  June,  growing  to  be  a  large 
tree.  It  is  cultivated  in  the  gardens  at  Cairo  ;  but 
I  know  not  whether  it  is  a  native  of  the  country. 
The  Arabs  call  it  Lebbeck. 

•^  Linn.  Sp.  PI.  ?.  729.  N.  3.     J'  P.  1503.  N.  22. 

23.  Mimofa 


5SQ  PLANT 


S. 


23.  Mimofa  Nilotica*.     Gum  Arabic  Acacia. 

The  Arabs  call  it  Charad.  This  plant,  and  not 
the  Miraofa  Senegal  Linn.  Spec.  Pi.  1506.  32.  as 
naturalifts  have  hitherto  imagined,  produces  the 
Gummi  Arabicum  (Gum.  Arabic)  Gummi  Thuris 
(Frankincenfe)  and  the  Succus  Acacice. 

N.  B.  This  fpecies,  and  the  Mimofa  Senegal, 
grow  together  promifcuoufly  :  hence  it  happened, 
that  the  Mimofa  Senegal  having  been  by  chance 
brought  to  Europe,  inftead  of  the  Mimofa  Nilotica, 
and  Alpinus  not  having  diftinguiihed  one  from  the 
other,  the  Mimofa  Senegal  was  by  all  writers  in 
Botany,  and  Materia  medica,  believed  to  be  the 
plant  that  produced  the  above-mentioned  gums ;  but 
the  true  plant  was  only  known  to  thofe  who  culti- 
vated it  in  Egypt.  The  Egyptians  know  one  from 
the  other  extremely  well,  and  have  given  them  dif- 
ferent names,  calling  the  true  one  Charad,  and  the 
other,  which  is  neither  of  ufe  nor  value.  Feme, 
They  both  grow  in  Lower  Egypt,  where  they  are 
planted  in  gardens :  I  have,  however,  feen  them 
grow  wild  in  the  fandy  defart,  near  the  ancient 
Sepulchres  of  the  Egyptians,  and  have  been  in-^ 
formed  that  the  Mimofa  nilotica  (Acacia  vera)  grows 
plentifully  in  feveral  parts  of  Upper  Egypt.  The 
gum  is  gathered  in  vaft  quantities  from  the  trees 
growing  in  Arabia  Petrsea,  near  the  North  Bay  of 
the  Pted  Sea,  at  the  foot  of  mount  Sinai,  whence 
t:hey  bring  the  Gum  Thus  (Frankincenfe)  fo  called 
by  the  dealers  in  drugs  in  Egypt,  from  Thur  and 
Thor,  which  is  the  name  of  a  harbour  in  the  North 
Bay  of  the  Red  Sea,  near  mount  Sinai,  thereby  dif-^ 

?  t-inji.  Sp.  PI.  Pag.  1506.  N..34. 

tinguiiliing 


plants;  251 

tinguifhing  it  from  the  Gum  Arabic,  which  i$  brought 
from  Suez,  another  port  of  the  Red  Sea,  not  far 
from  Cairo.  Befides  the  different  places  from  which 
thefe  gums  are  brought,  they  differ  alfo  in  fome 
other  particulars.  The  Gum  Thus  is  more  pellur 
cid,  white,  or  of  no  colour  at  all ;  but  the  Gum 
Arabic  is  lefs  pellucid,  and  of  a  brown  or  dirty  yel- 
low colour. 

24.  Anemone  coronarla  ^.     Wind-flower  of  Na- 

tolia. 

I  HAVE  feen  this  growing  in  the  plains  and  bot- 
toms of  mountains,  near  Smyrna  in  Natolia. 

25.  Clematis  orientalls  ^.     Oriental  Virgins  Bower. 
This  grows  in  the  hedges  round  Smyrna. 

26.  Origanum  segyptiacum  <=.    Wild  Marjoram  of 

Egypt. 

I  HAVE  feen  this  in  the  gardens  at  Cairo,  being 
introduced  there  on  account  of  its  fmell;  which  is 
ftronger  than  that  of  the  Dittany  of  Crete  (Origa- 
num veticum)  aromatic,  and  comforts  the  head. 
The  Arabians  call  it  Zatarhendi,  i.  e.  Origanum 
jndicum. 

27.  Nepeta  fyriaca.      Syrian  Nep. 

This  grows  in  great  plenty  in  the  gardens,  and 
near  the  walls  at  Smyrna. 

^  Linn.  Sp.  PI.  Pag.  760.  N.  8.    ^  P.  765.  N.  4.    <=  P.  822. 

28.  Oronanche 


252  PLANTS. 

s  28.  Orobanche  leevis '^.    Broom-rape, 
This  grows  in  moifl  places  round  Smyrna, 

29.  Draba  verna^     Common  Madwort, 
About  Smyrna. 

30.  Lathyrus  aegyptiacus  pedunculls  unifloris,  cirrhis 
triphyllis,  foliolis  enfiformibus. 

This  grows  in  the  fields  of  Damiata. 

31.  Dolichos  lablab  ^. 

Alpinus  fays,  that  this  grows  wild  in  Egypt ;  buf 
it  is  cultivated  in  gardens,  and  I  am  certain  does  not 
grow  wild  in  Lower  Egypt.  The  Egyptians  call  it 
Ful  Frangi,  i.  e.  the  European  bean :  hence  one 
might  conjecture  that  the  Europeans  firfl  brought 
it  to  Egypt.  The  Egyptians  make  pleafant  arbours 
of  this  in  their  houfes  and  gardens,  by  fupporting 
the  item,  and  leading  it  where  they  think  proper. 
They  not  only  fupport  it  with  flicks  and  wood,  but 
tie  it  with  cords,  by  which  means  the  leaves  fonii 
an  excellent  covering  and  an  agreeable  fliade. 

32.  Carthamus  tinflorius  g.     SafHower. 

This  is  cultivated  in  large  quantities  in  Egypt. 
The  flowers  are  gathered  thrice  a  year.  The  flow- 
ers are  much  ufed  for  dying,  and  are  a  valuable 
commodity  to  Egypt.  The  manner  of  preparing 
them  is  as  follows :  they  are  gathered  frefli,  and 

«•  Linn.  Sp.  PI.  P.  881 .  N.  i.  =  P.  896.  N.  2.  f  P.  1019.  N.  2. 
5  P.  1162.  N.  I. 

preiTcd 


PLANTS.  253 

preffed  between  two  flones,  to  extract  the  crude 
juice  which  is  thrown  away :  the  flowers,  after  be- 
ing prelTed,  are  waihed  feveral  times  in  fpring 
water,  which  is  brackijQi  in  Egypt ;  by  this  the  re- 
maining acrid  juice  is  wajQied  away  :  they  are  then 
taken  out,  as  much  at  a  time  as  a  perfon  can  hold 
in  his  hand,  and  the  water  is  fo  well  preiTed  out, 
as  to  leave  the  impreffion  of  the  fingers.  They  are 
then  put  on  the  flat  roofs  of  houfes,  and  laid  on 
matts,  being  now  of  a  yellov/  colour.  In  the  day 
time  they  are  covered  with  ruflies  or  ftraw,  left  they 
fliould  dry  too  faft,  and  too  much  by  the  heat  of  the 
fun ;  but  at  night  they  are  uncovered  and  expofcd 
to  the-  air  and  dew.  The  dew  changes  them  into  a 
deep  yellow;  they  are  dried  by  the  moderate  heat 
of  the  night ;  and  for  this  reafon  there  are  people 
conftantly  employed  in  turning  them.  They  are 
afterwards  fold  to  France,  Venice,  Florence,  and 
England,  under  the  name  of  Saffranon.  The 
young  leaves  are  ufed  for  fallad  in  Egypt :  at 
Smyrna  they  powder  them,  and  put  them  into  milk 
to  coagulate  it ;  and  in  this  manner  all  cheefe  is 
made  in  Egypt.  The  feeds  are  eaten  by  the  Parrot 
of  Alexander,  which  is  very  fond  of  them  :  to  other 
birds  or  beads  they  would  be  a  mortal  poifon. 

33.  Artemilia  dracunculus  ^.     Tarragon. 

The  Egyptians  fay,  that  if  Flax  feed  is  put  into 
an  onion,  and  afterwards  planted  in  rich  ground,  it 
will  produce  this  plant,     A  fine  fable. 

*>  Linn.  Sp.  PI.  ?zg.  1 1S9.  N.  19. 

34.  Viola 


254  PLANTS. 

34.  Viola  odorata  K   The  fweet-fcented  Violet* 

This  is  one  of  the  plants  mofl  efteemed  by  the 
Egyptians  and  Turks,  for  its  excellent  fmell  and 
agreeable  colour  ;  but  efpecially  for  its  great  ufe  in 
Sorbet,  which  they  make  of  Violet  Sugar,  dif- 
folved  in  water,  and  drink  frequently;  but  efpe- 
cially when  they  intend  to  entertain  their  guefts  in 
an  elegant  manner.  This  is  one  of  the  many  forts 
of  drink,  which  are  originally  Arabic,  and  by  them 
called  Sorbet ;  the  other  forts  are  made  with  raifms, 
boiled  in  water;  capillaire,  mixed  with  water;  the 
deco6lion  of  liquorize,  and  perhaps  other  things ; 
the  grandees  fometimes  add  ambergreafe,  which  is 
the  higheft  pitch  of  luxury  and  indulgence  of  their 
appetite.     The  Arabians  call  thefe  flowers  Neps. 

35,  Arum   colocafia  ^.      Egyptian  Wake  Robin^ 
called  Colocalia. 

This  is  met  with  in  the  fields  and  gardens  of 
Egypt; 

3  6.  Urtica  dioica  \    The  greatefl  Egyptian  Nettle. 

The  Arabians  call  it   Curcis.     It  is  found   m 
Egypt. 


37.  Platanus  orientalis™.     The  Eaflern  Plane. 

i8.  N.  5.  'P.139 

38.  Moraordica 


iLinn.  Sp.  Pl.Pag.  1189.N.  19,  "^  P.  1368.  N.  5.  'P.  1396. 
N.  6.  ""P.  1417.  N.  I. 


PLANTS.  255 

38.  Momordica  luffa  °.     ^Egyptian  Balfam  Apple. 

The  Arabians  call  it  Liff  and  LuiF.  It  is  culti- 
vated in  gardens,  and  climbs  up  on  Palm-trees,  co- 
vering and  elegantly  adorning  the  ftem  of  them. 

39.  Momordica  balfamina  *'.     Balfam  Apple. 

This  plant  is  famous  in  Syria  for  curing  wounds. 
They  cut  open  the  unripe  fruit,  and  infufe  it  in 
fweet  oil,  expo  fed  to  the  fun  for  fome  days,  until 
the  oil  is  become  red,  which  they  preferve  for  ufe. 
It  is  applied  to  a  frefh  wound  dropped  on  cotton. 
The  Syrians  reckon  this  the  bell  thing  to  cure 
wounds,  next  to  balfam  of  Mecca ;  and  have  found 
by  experience,  that  it  often  cures  large  wounds 
within  three  days.  The  leaves  and  Hems  are  be- 
fides  ufed  for  arbours  or  bowers.  It  is  cultivated  in 
gardens. 

40.  Cucurbita  lagenaria  P.     Bottle  Gourd. 

The  Arabians  call  it  Charrah.  The  poof  peo- 
ple eat  it.  They  boil  it,  and  feafon  it  with  vinegar: 
they  likewife  fill  the  fliell  with  rice  and  meat,  and 
thus  make  a  kind  of  pudding.  It  grows  in  all  parts 
of  Egypt,  and  the  defarts  of  Arabia,  wherever  the 
mountains  are  covered  with  rich  foil. 

41.  Cucurbita  Citrullus  1.    Water  Melon. 

The  Arabians  call  it  Batech.  It  Is  cultivated  on 
the  banks  of  the  Nile,  in  the  rich  claiey  earth,  which 

»  Linn.  Sp.  PI.  Pag.  1433.  N.4.  "  P.  1433.  N.  I.  p  P.H34* 
N.  I.  1  P.  J435.  N.  5. 

fubfides 


2s6  PLANTS. 

fubfides  during  the  inundation,  from  the  beginning 
of  May  until  the  overflowing  of  the  Nile,  i.  e.  to  the 
end  of  July,  or  beginning  of  Augufl: ;  and  in  the 
ifland  Delta,  efpecially  at  Burlos,  whence  the  largefl 
and  beil  are  brought.     This  ferves  the  Egyptians 
for  meat,  drink,  and  phyfic.    It  is  eat  in  abundance 
during  the  feafon,  even  by  the  richer  fort  of  peo- 
ple ;  but  the  common  people,  on  whom  Providence 
hath  bellowed  nothing  but  poverty  and  patience, 
fcarcely  eat  any  thing  but  thefe,  and  account  this 
the  bell  time  of  the  year,  as  they  are  obliged  to 
put  up  with  worfe  fare  at  other  feafons :  they  eat 
them  with  bread,  and  fcarcely  ever  taile  them  ripe. 
This  fruit  likewife  ferves  them  for  drink,  the  juice 
refrefhing  thefe  poor  creatures ;  and  they  have  lefs 
occafion  for  water,  than  if  they  were  to  live  on 
more  fubllantial  food  in  this  burning  climate.  They 
make  a  hole  in  the  melon,  in  which  all  the  juice  is 
coiie6led.     This  fruit  alfo  affords    phyfic;  but  it 
is  not  every  kind  of  melon  that  anfwers  this  end. 
There  is  a  variety  fofter  and  more  juicy  than  the 
common  fort,  and  not  fo  plentiful.  This  comes  from 
Burlos.    When  this  is  very  ripe,  and  almofl  putrid, 
they  hollow  part  of  it,  gather  the  juice  there  col- 
lected, and,  mixing  it  with  rofe  water  and  a  little 
fugar,  they  give  it  in  burning  fevers,  being  the 
only  medicine  the  common  people  ufe  in  thofe  dif- 
tempers.     It  is,  however,  not  fo  frequent  as  Al- 
pinus  and  Veilingius  relate;  for  it  can  be  had  at 
only  one  feafon  of  the  year,  and  that  is  when  the 
fruit  is  ripe,  which  does  not  continue  above  three 
"week^.    This  is  very  comfortable  to  the  patient,  for 
it  cools  and  refreflies  him.     This  variety  is  by  the 
Arabs  called  Et-Naovi,  which  fignifies  water.     Al- 
pinus,  therefore,  miilook  the  origin  of  the  word. 

A 


PLANTS.  257 


A      CAUTION. 

This  fruit  ihould  be  eaten  with  great  circum- 
fpeftion ;  for  if  this  coohng  fruit  be  taken  in  the 
heat  of  the  day,  when  the  body  is  very  warm,  bad 
confequences  often  enfue,  and  it  occafions  colicks, 
loofeneffes,  fluxes,  a  foul  ftomach,  &c.  I  have  been 
told  by  a  perfon  from  Europe,  a  man  of  veracity, 
that  he  lafl  year  faw  a  merchant  from  Damafcus, 
die  fuddenly  at  Damiata,  upon  eating  a  whole  water 
melon  when  he  was  very  hot.  When  I  came  to 
Egypt  I  was  much  delighted  with  the  appearance 
and  tafte  of  this  fruit,  having  never  f^en  it  before; 
and  tho'  I  was  very  cautious,  eating  only  a  Httle  at 
a  time,  yet  it  chilled  my  ftomach,  as  if  I  had  fwal- 
lowed  a  bit  of  ice,  which  obliged  me  to  defift  from 
tafting  it  afterwards,  and  I  likewife  advifed  others 
from  it ;  for  tho'  it  is  very  agreeable  to  the  palate, 
yet  it  can't  be  eat  without  danger.  It  is  well  known 
that  people  are  much  troubled  with  worms,  at  the 
time  this  fruit  is  ripe. 

42.  Cucumis  fativus.    The  common  Cucumber. 

This  grows  with  the  Water  Melons.  The 
vulgar  boil  and  eat  it  with  vinegar  j  the  richer  peo- 
ple fill  it  with  flclli  and  aromatics,  and  make  a  kind 
of  puddings,  which  eat  very  well.  This  ripens  a 
little  later  than  the  Water  Melon,  but  then  it  is  in 
feafon  longer,  and  until  the  latter  end  of  the  au- 
tumn. 


43.  Cucumis 


zsB  P     t     A    N     T    S. 

43.  Cucumis  melo  ^.     Melon. 

This  is  cultivated  in  the  fame  places,  and  ripens 
at  the  fame  time  with  the  VsTater  Melon  :  it  is  very 
near  as  large  as  the  Water  Melon,  the  flefh  is  fofter 
than  with  us,  but  more  infipid,  and  has  not  the 
agreeable  fweetnefs  of  ours,  efpecially  when  we 
procure  the  feeds  from  Siberia.  The  richer  people 
eat  them  in  the  manner  we  do,  to  gratify  the  pa- 
late ;  tlie  poorer  fort  eat  them  but  feldom. 

44.  Cucumis  Chate  *^.     The  Egyptian  Melon,'  or 
Queen  of  Cucumbers.  Abdellavi  of  Alpinus. 

This  grows  in  the  fertile  earth  round  Cairo,  after 
the  inundation  of  the  Nile,  and  not  in  any  other 
jilace  in  Egypt,  nor  does  it  grow  in  any  other  foil; 
It  ripens  with  the  Water  Melons.  This  fruit  is  a 
little  watery,  the  flefli  is  almoft  of  the  fame  fub- 
flance  as  the  Melons,  it  taftes  fomewhat  fweet  and 
cool,  but  is  far  from  being  as  cool  as  the  Water 
Melons. 

This  the  grandees  and  Europeans  in  Egypt  eat 
as  the  mofl  pleafant  fruit  they  find,  and  that  from 
which  they  have  lead  to  apprehend.  It  is  the  mofl 
(Excellent  fruit  of  this  tribe,  cf  any  yet  known.  The 
Princes  and  grandees  in  Europe  may  wifli  they  could 
get  it  into  their  gardens,  for  it  is  certainly  worth  a 
place  on  their  tables. 

45.  Rufcus  aculeatus  ^.     Prickly  Kneeholly. 

^  Lin.  Sp.  PI.  P.  1436.  N.  5.  •=  Lin.  Sp.PLP.  1437.  N.  7. 
d  Lin.  Sp.  PI.  P.  1474.  N.  I. 

46.  Ceratonia 


PLANTS.  2S9 

j^6.  Ceratonia  Siliqua  ®.     Carob  tree. 

4  7.  Mufa.  paradlfiaca  ^.     The  Flaintaln-tree. 

This  Rowers  in  Egypt  in  the  months  of  October 
and  November,  i.  e.  after  the  inundation  of  the 
Nile.  It  flowers,  therefore,  at  a  time  when  the  air 
is  temperate,  and  the  earth  moid:,  and  the  fruit  ri- 
pens when  the  air  is  exceffively  hot.  The  fruit  is 
,  fweet,  rather  hardifh,  or  between  a  pear  and  a 
date,  a  httle  vifcid  and  mealy,  melting  in  the  mouth 
without  being  chewed.  It  foon  becomes  four,  and 
can't  be  kept  above  fix  days  in  Egypt,  after  it  is 
taken  from  the  plant.  It  is  to  be  had  frefli  from 
the  latter  end  of  May  to  the  latter  end  of  0£l:ober, 
growing  plentifully  near  Rofetta;  but  it  is  very 
fcarce  at  Cairo,  tho'  it  grows  there,  but  the  trees 
are  alraofl  all  barren,  producing  but  little  fruit, 
which  is  kept  for  ladies  of  the  firll  quality. 

48.  Ficus  fycomorus  s.     The  Scripture  Sycamore. 

This  is  a  huge  tree,  the  ftem  being  often  fifty 
feet  thick.  The  fruit  is  pierced  or  bored  by  an  in- 
feft  (Cynips  fycomori)  about  the  time  it  ripens,  in  a 
very  remarkable  manner.  There  is  an  opening 
made  in  the  Calyx,  near  the  time  the  fruit  ripens, 
which  is  occafioned  in  two  different  manners  : 
1.  When  the  Squama,  which  cover  the  Calyx,  wi- 
ther and  are  bent  back,  as  in  the  Ficus  Carica  (com- 
mon Fig-tree)  tho'  this  is  not  very  common  in  the 

=  Lin.  Sp.PI.  P.  i5i3,N.  I.  ^  P.  1477.N.  i.  s  P.  15 13. 
N.  2. 

S  2  -Sycamore. 


2^0  P     L    A    ^     T    S. 

Sycamore.  2.  What  follows  is  worth  attention,  and 
may  ferve  to  excite  our  admiration.  A  h'ttle  below 
the  fcales  on  the  lide  of  the  flower  cup,  there  ap- 
pears a  fpot  before  the  fruit  is  ripe;  the  fruit  is  af- 
fected with  a  gangrsene  in  this  place,  which  extends 
itfelf  further,  and  frequently  occupies  the  fpace  of 
a  fingers  breadth ;  it  withers,  the  place  affected  be- 
comes black,  the  flefliy  fubftance  in  the  middle  of 
the  calyx,  for  the  breadth  of  a  quill,  is  corroded, 
and  the  male  bloflbms,  which  are  neareft  to  the 
bare  fide,  appear  naked,  opening  a  way  for  the  in- 
feCl,  which  makes  feveral  furrows  in  the  infide  of 
the  fruit,  but  never  touches  the  fi:igmata,  tho'  it 
frequently  eats  the  germina.  The  wounded  or 
gangrcenous  place  is  at  firfi:  covered  or  fliut  up  with 

,  the  blofifoms,  but  the  hole  is  by  degrees  opened  and 
enlarged,  of  various  fizes,  in  the  different  fruits, 
the  margin  and  fides  being  always  gangrcenous, 
black,  hard,  and  turned  inwardly.  The  fame  gan- 
grcenous appearance  is  alfo  found  near  the  fquamce, 
after  the  infefl  has  made  a  hole  in  that  place. 

Of  this  tree  the  ancient  Egyptians  made  coffins, 
wherein  to  lay  their  embalmed  dead.  The  wood  is 
very  proper  for  this  ufe,  as  it  does  not  rot  for  fe- 
veral ages,  and  not  until  it  is  very  old.  The  Mum- 
mies which  I  faw  in  Egypt,  were  all  prefer ved  in 
coffins  made  of  this  wood,  which,  as  well  as  the 
corpfe,  had  kept  found  for  2000  years.  This  large 
and  branchy  tree,  by  fpreading  out  its  boughs,  af- 
fords excellent  fliade,  being  of  great  ufe  to  people 
living  in  a  fcorching  clim^ate,  and  travelling  through 

.  defarts,  as  they  may  frequently  refl  their  wearied 
limbs  and  drooping  bodies,  under  the  ftiade  of  a 

^Sycamore.  The  fruit  taftcs  pretty  well;  when 
quite  ripe  it  is  foft,  v/atery,  fomewhat  fweer,  with 

■  4L  very  little  portion  of  an  aromatic  tafte.    After  I 

cncc 


PLANTS.  261 

once  had  tailed  it,  I  could  fcarcely  refrain  from. 
eating ;  and  if  I  had  thought  the  frefli  fruit  whole- 
fome,  I  fhould  certainly  have  eaten  a  great  deal  of 
it :  tho'  the  receptaculum  is  flefliy  enough,  yet  but 
little  of  it  is  good,  the  infeft  having  eat  much  of  it, 
and  often  made  its  furrows  to  the  outward  fkin.  This 
tree  grows  in  the  plains  and  fields  of  Lower  Egypt, 
where  I  have  feen  it  very  common.  It  buds  in  the 
latter  end  of  March,  and  the  fruit  ripens  in  the  be- 
ginning of  June  ;  it  is  wounded  or  cut  by  the  inha- 
bitants at  the  time  it  buds,  for  without  this  precau- 
tion, as  they  fay,  it  will  not  bear  fruit, 

49.  Phoenix  da^lylifera''.     The  Date-tree. 

This  palm  is  of  great  ufe  to  the  inhabitants  of  the 
Eait,  &c.  The  fruit  or  Dates  are  commonly  eaten. 
In  Upper  Egypt  many  families  fubfifl  almoil  en- 
tirely on  Dates ;  in  Lower  Egypt  they  don't  eat  fo 
many,  rather  chufmg  to  fell  them.  The  inhabitants 
here  yearly  fell  a  confiderable  quantity,  which  are 
chiefly  carried  to  the  towns  in  Turkey ;  for  which 
reafon  we  fee  Dates  expofed  to  fale  in  every  town. 
The  Egyptians  make  a  confer ve  of  the  freih  Dates, 
mixing  them  with  fugar ;  this  has  an  agreeable  tafte. 
The  Hones  or  kernels  of  the  Dates  are  hard  as 
horn,  and  nobody  would  imagine  that  any  animal 
could  eat  them.  But  the  Egyptians  break  them, 
grin'd  them  on  their  hand  mills,  and,  for  want  of 
better  food,  give  them  to  their  camels,  which  eat 
them.  In  Barbary  they  turn  handfome  beads  for 
paternofters,  of  thefe  ftones.  Of  the  leaves  they 
make  baikets,  or  rather  a  kind  of  iliort  bags,  which 

^»  Lin.  Sp.  PI,  P.  1658.  N.  I. 

are 


t^n  PLANTS. 

iareufed  In  Turkey  on  journies,  and  in  their  houfes. 
In 'Egypt  they  make  fly -flaps  of  them,  convenient 
-enough  to  drive  away  the  numerous  infedls  which 
-incommode  a  n^an  in  this  country:  I  have  like- 
,wife  fee.n  briifhes  made  of  them,  with  which 
•they  clean  their  foffas  and  cloaths.  The  hard 
.boughs, they  jife  for  fences  round  their  gardens,  and 
.cages,,  to  keep  their  fowls  in,  with  which  they  carry 
-on  a  great  traffic :  they  alfo  ufe  the  boughs  for  fe- 

•  veral  other  things  in  husbandry,  inftead  of  other 
-wood,  which  they  are  deflitute  of.     The  trunk  or 

ftem  is  fplit,  and  ufed  for  the  fame  purpofes  as  the 
branches :  they  even  ufe  it  for  beams  to  build 
houfes,  as  they  are  flrong  enough  for  fmall  build- 
ings :  it  is  likewife  ufed  for  firing,  when  there  is 
:  want  of  better.  The  wood  is  foft  and  fpungy,  but 
.burns  well.     They  lay  a  whole  tree  acrofs  their 

•  cifterns,  on  which  they  wind  the  rope  when  they 

•  draw    the  water.     The  integumentum  (covering) 
•which  covers  the  tree  between  the   boughs,  en- 
tirely referables  a  web,  and  has  threads,,  which  run 

-  perpendicularly  and  horizontally  over  one  another  : 
it  is  of  confiderable  ufe  in  Egypt,  for  of  it  they 

.  make  all  the  ropes  which  they  ufe  at  their  ciflerns, 
&c.     They  have  alfo  rigging  of  the  fame  kind  for 

V  their  fmaller  vefTels ;  it  is  pretty  ftrong  and  lalling. 
They  reckon  in  Egypt,  that  palm-trees  afford  to 
their  owners  a  fequin  annually  of  profit  for  each 
tree.  It  is  common  to  fee  two,  three,  to  four  hun- 
dred fruit-bearing  Date-trees  all  belonging  to  one 
family,  and  one  may  fometimes  fee  three  to  four- 
thoufand  in  the  poffelTion  of  one  man,  which,  at  the 
■above  r-ate,  bring  in  a  confiderable  revenue  to  their 
owner,  for  the  little  fpot  of  ground  they  occupy. 
A  full  grown  Dat entree  does  not,  at  moft,  take  up 
;  2  above 


P'  L    A'    N    T"  S5  2^^^^ 

above  four  feet  in  diameter,  fo  that  they  may  be 
planted  within  eight  feet  one  of  another. 

50.  Bryum  segypti.    -Egyptian  Mofs. 

This  flowers  in  Noy ember  on  the  walls,  ruins, 
and  cifterns  in  Egyjpt. 


PL  ANTiEi 


2(^4  PLANTS. 


PLANTS      ^GYPTI. 


MARCH     12,    1751. 

These  flowered  near  the  Nile,  on  the  banks  of 
the  branch  that  leads  to  Damiata. 

Scorpiurus  fulcata.     Caterpillar. 

Medicago  polymorpha.     Snail  Trefoil. 

Oxalis  corniculata.    Wood  Sorrel. 

Pimpinella  Anifum.     Common  Anife. 

Cichorium  Intybus.    Wild  Succory. 

Citrus  Aurantium.     Orange-tree. 

Cnicus  benedi£lus.     Bleffed  Thiftle. 

Cardui  fpecies  foliis  radical ibus  ovatis,  caulinis  pin" 

natifidis.    A  fpecies  of  Thiftle. 
(Convolvulus  Scammonia.     Scammony. 

MARCH    14.    DAMIATA. 
Adianthum  capillus  veneris.    Maidenhair. 

R anunculus  foliis  trilobis.  The  trilobed  Crowfoot. 

In  the  gardens. 

Hypnum 


PLANTS.  i6s 

Hypnum  foliis  crenatis. 
In  moid  places  and  walls  of  the  Aquedu£ls. 

MARCH    1(5.      DA  MI  AT  A, 

Peirofeliniim  anifum.     A  dubious  Plant. 

Sonchus  oleraceus.     Sow  Thiflle. 

Senecio  jacobceus.     Ragwort. 

Alfme  foliis  ovato-laiiceoiatis.     Chickweed. 

Euphorbia  peplus.     Spurge. 

Phalaris  panicula  tomenrofa.     Canary  Grafs. 

Lathyrus  segyptiacus.    iEgyptian  chickling  Vetch. 

Melilla  hortenfis.     Baum. 

Citrus  Aurantium.     Orange-tree. 

Feflucte  fpecus.     ^Egyptian  Fefcue  Grafs. 

Common  in  Egypt. 

MARCH    19.     D  AMI  AT  A. 

Mufa  paradifiaca.     Plaintain-tree. 

The  fruit  of  this  is  often  eat  by  Field  Mice  (Mus 
agreftis),  who  run  on  the  tree  and  devour  it. 

Saccharum  officinarura.     Sugar  Cane. 

Vitis  vinifera.     Vine. 

This  is  cultivated  here  for  the  fake  of  eating  the 
grapes,  and  not  for  wine,  which  is  brought  from 
Candia,  Cyprus,  Scopuli,  &c.  and  Europe,  for  the 

ufe  of  the  Chriilians, 

^fchynomene  fefban.    Ballard  fenfuive  Plant, 

A  Willow  by  the  Arabians,  called  Safsaf. 

Phcsnix  dafLylifera.     Date-tree. 

T  MARCH 


266  PLANTS. 


M  A  R  C  H    22.     D  A  M  I  A T  A. 

Solidago  vlrgaurea.     Golden  Rod. 

CralTula  poriulacaria.     LelTer  orpin. 

rianrago  major.     Plantain. 

Vicia  foliis  obovatis  acuminatis  pubefccntibus,  fti- 

pulis  deflexis  laciniatis,  laciniis   acuminatis  plu- 

rimis.     A  fpecies  of  Vetch. 
Matricaria  chamomilla.     Chamomile. 
Feftuca.  Phalaris,  Avena.     Fefcue   Grafs,   Canary 

Grafs  and  Oats. 
Rumex  acetofella.     Sorrel. 
Cailia  fiflula. 
Phoenix  daftylifera.     Date-tree. 

Of  this  eleven  trees  were  grown  together  at  the 
bafis. 

Atriplex  vulgaris.     Orach. 

ArenariaE;  fpecies.     A  fpecies  of  Sand  Grafs. 

The  Lichen es  of  mount  St.  Cruz  in  Cyprus. 

Lichen  cruftaceus  fiavus. 

Lichen  cruftaceus  virefcens. 

Lichen  lamellofus  fiavus. 

Lichen  lamellofus  grifeus. 

Lichen  cruftaceus  grifeus. 

Lichen  cruftaceus  ater. 

Lichen  cruftaceus  ex  flavo  &  atro  per  circulos  va- 

riegatus. 
Lichen  foliaceus  laciniis  fmuatis. 

Pancratium  maritimum.     The  Sea  Daffodil. 

This  the  modern  Greeks  call  x^^^°^'    ^^^  "^t  the 
ancients  know  it  by  the  fame  name  ? 

A  Crinum 


PLANTS.  267 

Crinum   cetliioplcum.      The  Afpliodel  Lilly  from 
jSthiopia. 

It  flowers  in  Auffuft. 


Poliantlies  tuberofa.     Tube-rofe, 

This  flowers  in  Auguft.  The  Egyptians  put  the 
flowers  in  fweet  oil,  and  by  this  means  give  the  oil  a 
mod  excellent  fmell,  fcarce  inferior  to  Oil  of  Jef- 
famine. 


L  A  P  I  D  E  S 


STONES.  273 

L     A     P     I     D     E     S. 

STONES. 

Opalus  Gemma.     The  Opal. 
Cos  Damiat^.     The  Whetftone  of  Damiata. 
Natrum  i^GYPTiARUM.    The  Nitre  of  the  An^ 
cients. 


TH  E  Opal  is  one  of  the  rareft  Gems  to  be 
met  with.  During  nay  ftay  at  Alexandria^ 
1  was  lliewn  a  ftone  by  Mr.  Roboly,  the  French 
Interpreter,  which  was  of  the  lize  of  a  hazel-nut, 
in  the  form  of  a  half  globe,  and  fet  in  a  ring  •,  if 
at  was  held  horizontally,  it  had  a  very  fine  olive 
colour  j  but  if  it  was  held  perpendicularly,  between 
the  eye  and  the  light,  it  had  the  colour  of  the  fineft 
ruby.  The  prefent  poffeflbr  had  procured  it  by 
accident  from  a  Peafanr,  who  found  it  amongft 
fome  old  ruins,  and  fold  it  for  five  or  fix-penee. 
The  Interpreter,  who  knew  not  what  it  v^/as,  fee 
no  great  value  on  it,  and  allced  me,  v^iether  I 
knew  the  ftone,  and  how  much  I  thought  it 
worth?.  I  anfwered,  that  it  was  an  Opal  i  but 
could  not  tell  him  the  worth  of  it,  as  I  w^as  nos: 
ufed  to  prize  fuch  things,  the  value  being  often 
proporrioned  to  the  tafte  and  inclination'  of  the 
purchafer  ;  I  however  told  him,  that  it  was  worth 
having  and  keeping,  and  might  be  of  coniiderable 
value  to  aperlon  who  was  fond  of  Gems^  this  being 

T  one 


kj4-  STONES. 

one  of  the  fcarcefl  to  be  got.     Some  time  after, 
Mr.  Roboly   came   to   Cairo,  where  Mr.  Liron- 
court,  the   French  Conful,    a    learned    and  very 
curious   man  faw,  admired,  and  eafily   obtained 
the  Stone.      Lironcourt  accepted  of  the  prelent 
with  pleafure,  without  knowing  its  value ;  I  was 
therefore  af1<.ed  the  fecond  time  about  it,  and  an- 
fwered    as  before  j    upon   which  Mr.  Lironcourt 
compared  it  with   the  defcriptions   which    Pliny, 
and  feveral  other  Authors,  which  he   had   in  his 
fine  library,  had   given  of  the  Opal,  and  was  by 
them  confirmed  that  I  was  right.  But  he  knew  not 
yet  the  value,   and  foon  after  fet  out  for  Conflan- 
tinople.     He  there  fhewed  the  Stone  to  a  Con- 
noifleur,  who  told  him  it  was  an  Opal,  and  that 
he  valued  it  at  feveral  thoufand  ducats.     The  An- 
cients knew  the  Opal  perfedly  well,  and  without 
doubt  it  was  more  common  with  them,  than  it  is 
at  prefent.     This,    which  I  have  defcribed,   had 
probably  lain  concealed  in  the  ruins  of  Alexandria, 
ever  fince  the  time  when  all  kinds  of  Gems   and 
Jewels  were  part  of  the  riches  of  its  powerful  in- 
habitants.    There  is  fcarcely  any  kind  of  Stone, 
accounted  precious  by  the  Ancients,  which  is  not 
to  be  found  in   the  ruins  of  Alexandria  and  old 
Cairo  ;  fome  of  them  polifhed,  others  rough.     1 
have  {qqh   the  CHalcedon,   Aga-onyx,   Sard -onyx. 
Cornelian,   all  found  in   thofe  places.     I  forbear 
mentioning  Emeralds,  and  Sapphires,  which  arc 
frequently  found  there,  and  are  not  fo  fcarce  at 
prefent  as   the  former.     The  attentive  Tavernier, 
who  was  a  great  Connoifleur  of  Stones,  fays,  that 
the  Opal  is  not  to  be  found  in  any  place  in  the 
v;orld,  except  in  a  mine  in  Hungary;  but  the  An- 
cients,  without  doubt,   had  this  and  many  other 
Stones,  of  which  we  know  not  the  country  or  place 

whence 


STONES.  ^75 

whence  they  are  brought,  thofe  places  at  prefent 
being  buried  in  obHvion.  But  we,  on  the  other 
hand,  know  the  way  to  the  diamond  mines  of  In- 
dia, with  which  the  Ancients  were  unacquainted  ; 
therefore  the  Stone  which  in  our  times  is  mo'Il 
efteemed,  with  its  companion,  the  Ruby,  was 
not  fo  common  with  the  nations  of  the  ancienn 
world,  as  at  prefent. 

Cos  Damiatse.  Whetfcone,  Lapis  foraminibus 
ex  cavatus,  magnus,  inaequahs,  ex  csruleo  nigref* 
cens.  This  large  rugged  and  almoft  black  Stone, 
•with  many  fmall  holes,  is  found  in  Paleftine  and 
Galilee. 

It  is  brought  to  Damiata  for  mill-flones,  and 
ought  to  be  better  examined  in  the  place  from 
whence  it  comes. 

Natrum,  a  fait  dug  out  of  a  pit  or  mine,  near 
Manfura  in  Egypt  j  it  is  by  the  inhabitants  called 
Natrum,  being  mixt  with  a  Lapis  Calcareus  (Lime- 
ftone)  that  ferments  with  vinegar,  of  a  whitifli 
brown  colour.  The  Egyptians  ufe  it,  (i.)  to  puc 
into  bread  inftead  of  yeaft.  (2.)  To  wafh  linea 
with  it  inllead  of  foap.  I  have  been  inform.ed, 
that  it  is  ufed  with  fuccefs  in  the  tooth-ach,  in  the 
manner  following  :  The  fait  is  powdered  and  put 
into  vinegar,  it  ferments  immediately,  and  fubfides 
to  the  bottotn.  The  mouth  is  wafhed  with  this 
vinegar  during  the  Paroxfym,  by  which  the  pain 
is  mitigated,  but  not  taken  off  entirely. 


T2  HISTORIA 


^^6  THE  NATURAL  HISTORY 

HISTORIA     NATURALIS 

PALiESTIN^, 

THE      NATURAL      HISTORY 
o  F 
PALESTINE. 


I.     JAFFA. 

TOSCYAMUS  aureus.     Golden  Hen- 

bane. 

Parietaria  officinalis.     Pellitory  of  the  fliops. 

iL^ycium  fpinofum.  Boxthorn.  The  Latin  Monks 
fay,  that  the  crown  of  Chrift  was  made  of  this. 

Euphorbia  foliis  oblongis  lanceolatis  vertiallatiSy 
herbacca,  inermis,  pedaUs.    This  grows  in  hedges. 

Buphthalmum  foliis  duplicato-pinnatis.    Ox-eye. 

Buphthalmum  foliis  oblongis  laciniatis,  laciniis 
denticulatis  cppofitis.     Ox-eye. 

Turritis  caule  ftmpliciufculo^  foliis  radicalihus 
longis  lanceolatis  laclniatis ;  terminali  maxima  dentata. 
Tower  muftard. 

Cnicus  foment  of  us,  foliis  cordalis  amplexicaulibus 
^entatis  integris.     Thiftle. 

Papaver  Rhceas.     Poppy. 

Malva  vulgaris.     Mallow. 

In  hortis.     In  the  gardens.  * 

Ficus  Carica.     The  fig-tree. 
Rofa  damafcena.     The  damaflc  rofe. 
Terebinthus,    The  turpentine  tree. 

Sycomorus. 


OF    PALESTINE.  277 

Sycomorus.     The  fycamore. 

Citrus  aurantia.     The  orange  tree. 

Amygdalus  perfica.     Peach  tree. 

Cannabis  vulgaris.  Hemp.  A  few  of  thelc 
plants  were  growing  in  a  garden  being  only  ufed 
by  the  Mahometans  :  they  powder  the  leaves,  and 
make  of  them  a  Narcotick,  which  has  the  fame 
effeds  on  them  as  opium.  The  Confe6lion  is  call- 
ed Chafchis,  and  is  much  ufed  by  the  Egyptians. 

Animalia  loci.     The  animals  of  the  country. 

Canis  aureus.  The  Jackcal  (Chical  of  the 
Turks.)  This  is  common  in  Egypt  and  the  Eaiir, 
but  very  numerous  in  Palefline.  I  faw  many  of 
its  caves  and  holes  in  the  hedges  round  the  gar- 
dens. This  is  fatal  to  the  herds  and  flocks  of  the 
Arabians,  and  is  therefore  hunted  continually,  and 
they  often  throw  great  numbers  of  them  into  the 
fea.  This  is  pad  all  doubt  the  Fox  of  Sampfon. 
A  fpecies  of  Muftela,  which  is  very  common  in  Pa* 
leftine,  efpecially  during  the  vintage,  and  often 
deftroys  whole  vineyards,  and  fields  of  Cucumbers. 

Scarabseus  dypeo  pedihus anticis deniaiis^  on  which 
were  found   numbers   of  little  Acari. 

Chryfomela  coccinea,  elytrts  thorace  medio  capitequet 
nigrefcentibus. 

11.     A  C  R  A. 

Silene  foUis  ohovatis  lanuginofis  craffis  fuculentis, 
Vifcous  Campion. 

Plantago  caule  ramofo  foliis  integerrimis  lineari 
lanceolatis,  ramis  brachiatis^  /pica  foliofa.     Plantain. 

1^2.^m\ys,  /pica  ovatc.^  comprejfa,  arifia  tertia  Ion- 
gjjfima  intorta.  Folia  breviufcula  lineari  acuminata, 
a  caule  diftantia,  vaginantia.  The  Hares-tail 
Grafs. 

T  3  Phyfalis 


I'j^   th£  natural  history 

Phyfalis  Alkegengi  ?  Winter  cherry.  Folia 
ovata  integerrima  lanuginofa.  Caulis  lanuginofus. 
Filamenca  non  breviffima,  fed  longitudine  lacini- 
aram. 

III.    JERUSALEM.  1751.  April  7th; 

Feftuca  ?  Fefcue  grafs.  Pedaiis,  foliis  linearis 
hits  moliffimis. 

This  grows  on  the  dry  grounds  round  the 
town,  and  is  very  grateful  to  Iheep  and  goats. 

Sifymbrium  foliis  cordato-lanceolatis^  filiguis  fe- 
■'miuncialihiis  longis  pendulis^  pedunculis  capiUaribus 
hafi  tenuiorihus.     Water  creffes. 

Geranium  calycibus  fentaphyllis^  foliis  cordato- 
tvatis  incifo  crenatis.     Crane's  bill. 

Geranium  foliis  compofitis :  foliolis  alternis  pin- 
natifidis.     Calyx  pentaphyllus.     Crane's  bill. 

Cynoglofiuni  foliis  tuherculalis^  fcabris,  hifpidis^ 
Hounds  tongue. 

Afperugo /(7//7j  ovaiis.     Great  goofe  grafs. 

'L.a.imum  foliis  albis.     Archangel. 

Urtica  pilulifera..   Nettles. 

IV.  Mount  SIGN.     April  8,  1751. 

Ranunculus  lanuginofus^  caule  procumbente,  foliis 
quaternis^  foliolis  pinnatifidis^  receptaculo  ovato-acu^ 
minato.     Crowfoot. 

Betonica  officinalis.     Betony. 

yizrxuh'mm  fiorc  purpurea.     Hore  hound. 

Bifcutella  filiquis  orbiculatis  didymis^  foliis  rad't- 
talibus  lanceolatis  dentatis  lanuginofis.  Buckler  muf- 
tard. 

Tri folium  mininmm  montanum^  flore  purpurea , 
Trefoil. 

As 


OF    PALESTINE.  279 

As  this  plant  is  here  very  fmall,  one  may  fafely 
conclude,  that  the  foil  is  barren. 

Thlafpi  foi'tis  lobato-laciniatis :    laciniis  ciliatis. 
Treacle  muftard. 

Draba  caule   nudo^  foJiis   lanceolatis  integerrimh 
■margine  ciliatis.     Whitlow  grafs. 

Anthemis^^r-Ufj,  foliis pinnatis  capillarihus,    Ca-' 
mo  mile. 

Feftuca?    Fefcuc  grafs.    Spithamalis,  foliis  ca- 
pillaribus.     This  grais  grows  in  fand. 

Hieracium  montanum  parvum.     Hawkweed. 

Buphthalmum  parvum,  foliis  oblongis   dentatis. 
Ox-eye. 

Draba  ?    foliis  caulinis  ovatis  haft  angufiatis  mi-- 
mma.     Whitlow  grafs. 


tj' 


y.  J  E  R  I  C  H  O.    In  the  Vale  near  the  Town. 
April  1 2th. 

Solanum  fruiicofum  quadripedaU  caule  &  foliis 
fpimjis.     Night  fhade. 

Frutex  foliis  triangularihus  fplendentihus^  This 
plant  is  very  common  in  all  the  defarts  of  Paleftine. 

A(c\tp\2is  fcandens  fruticofa,  foliis  cordato  acumina- 
iis.  Swallow- wort.  This  grows  in  the  clayey 
defart  between  Jericho  and  the  dead  iea. 

Lichen  lamellis  convexis.  Liverwort.  This 
grows  on  the  furface  of  the  earth. 

Didynamica  graveolens,  petalis  refexis,  foliis 
infcojis,  radice  fibrofa  magna. 

Allium  Cepa.  Onion.  The  Arabians  call  it 
Bafal,  It  grows  in  the  plains  near  the  fea. 

Tamarix.     Tamarifk. 

Kali  fruticofum  (Salfola  fruticofa?)  Glafswort. 

'E.ncdifimpleicfruticofa.     Heath. 

T  4  Mimofa; 


28o   THE   NATURAL  HISTORY 

Mimofa.  Egyptian  Acacia.  SchiUa  of  tht  Ht* 
brews.  1  faw  only  one  fhrub  of  this  in  the  plain, 
near  the  mountains  of  Arabia. 

VI.  The  Road  of  St.  J  E  R  E  M  I  A  H,    be-* 

tween  Jerufalem  and  Rama. 

Terebinthus.     Turpentine  tree. 
Vitex.     Chafte  tree 
Tamarix.     Tamaiilk. 
Ceratonia.     Carob. 

Sycomorus^  only  one  tree  at  Rama.  The  fcrip^ 
ture  fycamore. 

Cynara.     Artichoke. 

Cicuta.     Hemlock. 

Cardui  &  Cnici,  fix  fpecies,     Thiftles. 

VII.  At  the  SEALED  Fountain  of  Solomow 

near  Bethlehem, 

Columba  Paleftinse.     A  dove. 

Ran  a  corpore  ovate,  dorfo  convexo,  tota  lucido-* 
viridis.     A  frog, 

Tenthredo  fafciata,  fafciis  candidis  atrifque. 
Scarab^us  Buphihalmi  parvus^  ater  lineis  candidis*. 

PLANTS, 

Adianthum.^    Maiden^hair.  ?  .^  ^^^  ^^^j^ 

Hypnum  minimum.  j 

Nafturtium  aquaticum.  (Sifymbrium.)  Water 
crelTes. 

Achilleas  afinis  lutea. 

Gram  en  panicuia  arundinaceay  radice  lulhofa^ 
On  the  hills. 

Anagyri^ 


OF    PALESTINE.  281 

Anagyris  foetida.  Stinking  bean-trefoil.  Upon 
the  hills. 

Ocymum.     Eafil. 
Origanum,     Wild  Marjoram. 

VIII.    Mount  THABOR. 

Cynogloflum  hifpidum.     Hound's  tongue. 

Ononis  foetida.     Stinking  Reft-harrow. 

Papaver  rhoeas.     Poppy. 

Papaver  flore  flavefcente  parvo.     Poppy. 

Buphthalmum  dentatum.    Ox-eye. 

Cynara.     Artichoke. 

Ruta.     Rue. 

Umbellata  cum  difco  filamentofo. 

Carduina  caulo  Jpinofo  quadr angular u 

Laferpitium  latifolium.     Laferwort. 

Pimpinella  officinalis.     Burnet  faxifrage 

Trifolium,  foUis  ovato-lanceolatis^  fp^ca  obhnga 
Jaxa.     Trefoil. 

Syngenefifta  cum  pericarpiis  confertis. 

Quercus  foliis  dentato-aculeatis.     Oak. 

Ceratonia.     Carob  tree,  or  St.  John's  Bread. 

Saivis  varise  Ipecies.     Sage. 

G\:2LmQX\  fecalinum  radice  bulboja, 

Abfinthium  romanum.  (Artemifia.)  Worm- 
wood. 

Hex.     Holly.     In  the  vallies. 

Terebinthus.  The  turpentine-tree.  On  the 
rocks. 

Myrtus.     Myrtle. 

Scorzonera.     Viper  grafs. 

Cichoreum  Intybus.     Succory. 

Hedera  helix.     Ivy. 

Cepa  montana.     Onion. 

Avena  montana.     Oats. 

DC.  H 


282    THE   NATURAL   HISTORY 


IX.  In  Mount  TEMPTATION. 

Cepa  montana.     Onion. 

Cordia  febeften.     Sebeften. 

Ricinus  Palma  Chrifti. 

Rhamnus  fpina  Chrifti.  Buckthorn,  called 
Chrift's  thorn. 

Vitex  agnus  caftus.     Chafte  tree. 

El^agnus.  Wild  olive  j  of  this  is  made  the  oil 
of  Jericho. 

Arbor  magna^  florihus  lonicera  lahiatis  JaciniatiSy 
/Otis  fanguineis.  Foliis  obverfe  ovatis  fucculentis 
Jucido  viridibus. 

Ficus  carica.     The  fig  tree. 

Euphorbia /<7//Vj  terettbus  fuccukntls.     Spurge, 

Ranunculus  aquaticus  luteus.     Crowfoot. 

Malva  ruderum.     Mallow. 

Buphthalmum  commune.     Ox-eye. 

Chenopodium  ruderum.     Goofe  foot. 

Hyftrix  criftata.     Porcupine. 

Cimex  aculeata^  later ibus  abdominis  valde  •protU'" 
IherantibuSi  maculis  ferrugineis. 

X.  Ax.  the  Fountain  of  SOLOMON  near  Tyre. 

Salix  fafsaf.     Willow. 
Vitex  agnus  caftus.     Chafte  tree. 
Ricinus  communis.     Palma  Chrifti. 
Convolvulus  foliis  trinis.     Bindweed. 
Solanum  foUis  hirfutis.     Anel   el  dib   of  the 
Arabs.     Night  fliade. 
Mercurialis.     Mercury. 
Parietaria.     PelHtory. 
Didynamicay  flore  minimo  rubro  bipedalis. 

XI.  The 


OF    PALESTINE.  285 

XI.  The  HOT-BATHS  of  TIBERIAS. 

1.  ^he  fountain,  or  fource  of  them.  Is  at  the  foot 
of  a  mountain,  at  the  diftance  of  a  piftol-fhot  from 
lake  Genazereth,  and  a  quarter  of  a  league  from 
the  coafts  of  Tiberias, 

2.  The  mountain  con  fids  of  a  black  and  brittle 
fulphureous  ftone,  which  is  only  to  be  found 
in  large  maffes  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Tibe- 
rias ;  but  in  loofe  flones  aifo  on  the  coafts 
of  the  dead  fea,  as  well  as  here  at  the  lake  Gena-t 
zereth.  They  cut  mill-ftones  out  of  it  in  this 
place,  which  are  fent  by  water  from  Acra  to  Egypt. 
I  faw  an  incredible  quantity  of  them  at  Damiata 

3.  The  fpring  which  comes  from  the  mountain, 
is  in  diameter  equal  to  that  of  a  man's  arm,  and 
there  is  one  only. 

4.  The  water  is  fo  hot,  that  the  hand  may  be 
put  into  it  without  fcalding,  but  it  cannot  be 
kept  there  long;  confequently  it  is  not  boiling 
hot,  but  the  next  degree  to  it. 

5.  It  has  a  ftrong  fulphureous  fmell. 

6.  It  taftes  bitter,  and  fomewhat  like  common 
fait. 

7.  The  fedlment  depofed  by  the  water  is  black,  as 
thick  as  pafte,  fmelis  ftrong  of  falphur,and  is  cover- 
ed with  two  fkins  or  cuticles,  of  which  that  beneath 
is  of  a  fihe  dark  green  colour,  and  the  uppermoft 
of  a  light  rufty  colour ;  at  the  mouth  of  the  out- 
let, where  the  water  formed  little  cafcades  over 
the  ftones,  the  firft  mentioned  cuticle  alone  was 
found,  and  fo  much  refembled  a  conferva,  that  one 
might  eafily  have  taken  this,  that  belongs  to  the 
mineral  kingdom,  for  a  vegetable  produdion  ; 
but  nearer  the  river,  where  the  water  flood  ftill, 

one 


«84    THE  NATURAL  HISTORY 

one  might  fee  both  fkins,  the  yellow  uppermofi:, 
and  under  it  the  green.  There  was  a  miferablc 
houfe  with  feats  for  bathing,  built  clofe  by  it ;  but 
it  was  not  kept  in  repair,  as  no  body  here  makes 
any  ufe  of  thefe  gifts  of  nature. 

XII.    The    DEAD    SEA. 

1.  The  foil  is  a  crumbly  clay,  impregnated  with 
fait,  and  greatly  refembles  that  of  Egypt. 

2.  Quartz,  to  which  adhered  a  cruft  of  fait. 

3.  Nodules  of  clay,  which  are  round  and  corn- 
pad.     Thefe  I  faw  in  the  clay  near  the  coaft. 

4.  Schiftus.  Slate  refembling  flint,  fcattered 
here  and  there  on  the  banks. 

5.  Perpendicular  layers  of  a  lamellated  brown, 
clay,  in  the  common  clay  on  the  banks.  Is  this 
imperfed  flate  ? 

6.  No  rufh  or  reed. 

7.  No  plants  near  the  (hore.  A  ftinklng  plant 
^ich  a  labiated  flower,  at  fome  dift:ance  -,  and  a 
plant  of  a  fait  tafte,  in  the  plain. 

8.  The  Afphaltes  is  gathered  by  the  Arabs  in 
confiderable  quantities  every  autumn  on  the  fhore, 
where  it  is  thrown.  It  is  carried  to  Damiata,  and 
there  fold  for  dying  wool. 

9.  Shell  fi{h  were  common  on  the  (hore. 

10.  The  Arabs  fay,  there  are  no  fifliin  this  fea  ; 
however,  I  doubt  the  truth  of  this,  as  there  are 
fhell  fifh. 

I  J.  No  navigation. 

12.  The  neighbouring  mountains  are  compofed 
of  a  foft  calcareous  ftone,  and  appear  to  be  tormed 
by  this  fea,  which  has  gradually  decreafed. 

13.  The  (late  feen  in  the  mountains  has  been 
Afphaltes,  now  changed  into  flate. 

14.  The 


OF    PALESTINE.  i^s 

14.  The  hardnefs  of  the  remote  mountains. 

15.  The  Afphaltes  appears  like  the  balfam  of 
mummies  (Balfam.  mumiarum),  and  is  the  fame 
fubftance  j  has  there  ever  been  a  lake  in  Egypt  im- 
pregnated with  this  matter  ? 

16.  The  petrefadions  on  the  oppofite  fhore  arc 
the  fame  now  as  thofe  in  the  dry  lakes  of  Egypt. 

17.  Poma'fodomitka,  Mad  apples,  are  the  fruit 
of  Splanum  Melongena. 


PLANTS, 


286    THE  NATURAL  HISTORY 

«^"     " ■■l^i.«.Hl  .r     I    I  III  I  I I  IL»I      »l..^ I, .1   II    ■■illl    Mil     I    I    Irf 

"'''■'  ■      '  "     ■  '  ■    ■  0 

PLANTS,    ANIMALS,    &c. 

Mentioned  In  the  S  c  r  i  p  t  u  r  e  s. 


CU  C  U  M  I  S  melo.     Melon.     Arab.  Kaun. 
Cucurbita  citruUus.    Water  melon.    Arab. 
Battech.    Syriacis  jabbas. 

Cucumis  fativus.    Cucumbers.    Arab,  chiar. 

Cucurbita  lagenaria.     Gourd.     Arab,  charrak. 

Braflica  fativa.  Cabbage.  Arab,  krump.  Sy- 
riac.  malfuf. 

Cucumis  colocynthis.  Bitter  apple.  Arab* 
Handal. 

Momordica  balfamina.  Male  balfam  apple' 
Balfamita. 

Momordica  elaterium.  Spirting  cucumber.  By 
the  Syrians  called  adjur  el  hemar,  i.  e.  Afles  cu- 
cumber. Thefe  names  may  be  compared  with 
the  Hebrew,  to  explain  the  fcnptures,  where  men- 
tion is  made  of  the  cucumbers  of  Egypt. 

Luke  xvii.  ver.  6.  o-uxa/^/j/or.  Chrift  certainly 
meant  the  Sycamore  of  the  Ancients,  and  Pharaoh's 
fig-tree  of  the  Egyptians,  which  the  Arabians  call 
Guimez,  when  he  pointed  to  a  large  tree,  which 
he  faid  the  difciples  might,  by  faith,  remove  into 
the  fea ;  for  fuch  there  are  now  in  Judsea  and 
Galilee,  where  Chrift  then  was,  fee  ver.  ii.  of 
the  fame  chapter.  Luther,  therefore,  tranflated 
it  very  badly  in  calling  it  a  mulberry- tree,  which 
is  neither  congruent  with  fcripture  nor  natural 
hiftory. 

Luke 


OF   T PIE   SCRIPTURES.     287 

Luke  xix.  ver.  4.  o-vyLo^ovpia.  The  tree  on 
which  little  Zachsus  climbed  near  Jericho,  to  fee 
Chrift  pafs.  The  Greek  text  fhews  it  was  a  fyca- 
more  ;  therefore  the  Roman  Catholicks,  Greeks 
and  Armenians  are  led  into  an  error,  when  they 
vifit  tlie  holy  places,  for  they  are  fhswn  a  tree  of 
a  different  genus,  and  contend  that  it  was  on  one 
of  thofe  Zachsus  climbed.  This  is  a-kin  to  the 
prunus,  (plumb-tree)  and  has  oval  leaves,  &c. 
an  Eleagnus  ?  (wild  olive  ?)  it  grows  in  the 
plains  near  the  ruins  of  Jericho ;  from  this  fruir, 
the  Arabs  extract  an  oil,  which  they  fell  to  travel- 
lers, who  keep  it  amongft  their  other  holy  things, 
and  pretend  it  polTeires  a  fmgular  virtue  in  curing 
wounds,  for  which  reafon,  they  call  it  the  Oil  of 
Zachaus^  attributing  its  virtue  to  the  ftay  Zach^us 
made  on  the  tree.  Of  theftone  of  the  fruit,  which 
is  of  an  oval  form,  with  four  ridges,  and  almoft  the 
fize  of  a  walnut,  the  Latin  monks  make  beads, 
which  they  fend  to  Europe  as  being  of  great  value. 
I  have  before  obferved,  that  Luther  interpreted 
this  paflTage  very  badly,  when  he  called  the  tree 
a  mulberry-tree  ;  for  the  mulberry-tree  is  not,  at 
prefent,  found  growing  naturally  in  the  territory 
of  the  town  of  Jericho,  where  the  affair  hap- 
pened, and  much  lefs  is  it  cultivated  there  at  this 
time,  as  it  fcarcely  ever  grew  in  Judsea,  very  little 
in  Galilee,  but  in  abundance  in  Syria  and  Mount 
liibanon  :  neither  did  I  fee  the  Sycamore  growing 
near  Jericho,  but  it  is  probable  it  grew  there  for- 
merly, being  to  this  day  found  in  Judsea,  and 
was  once  doubtlefs  very  common,  as  it  is  men- 
tioned fo  often  in  the  Scriptures. 

Poma  fodomitica^  or  mad  apples,  are  the  fruit  of 
Solanum  Melongena   Linnsei,   by   other   authors 

called 


283    THE  NATURAL  HISTORY 

called  mala  infana  ;  thefe  I  found  in  plenty  abouC 
Jericho,  in  the  vales  near  Jordan,  not  far  fromt 
the  Dead  Sea.  It  is  truCj  they  are  fometimes 
filled  with  a  duft,  yet  this  is  not  always  the  cafe, 
but  only  when  the  fruit  is  attacked  by  an  infedt 
itenthredo)  which  turns  all  the  infide  into  duft, 
leaving  the  Ikin  only  entire,  and  of  a  beautiful 
colour. 

Nux  Behen.    Balfamum  Aaraonis* 

The  oil  of  behen,  which  emits  no  fcent  or  fmell  aC 
all,  is  very  proper  for  preparing  odoriferous  oint- 
ments and  balfams.  On  this  account  it  is  much 
ufed  by  the  inhabitants  of  the  Eaft,  who  lay  flow- 
ers of  jefTamine,  narcilTus,  8^c.  in  this  oil,  and 
thus  make  an  odoriferous  ointment,  which  thofe 
who  love  perfumes  apply  to  the  head,  nofe  and 
beard.  And  this  is  undoubtedly  that  with  which. 
Aaron,  as  is  faid  in  the  Scriptures,  ufed  to  anoint 
the  head,  and  David  fo  much  praifed  on  account  of 
its  agreeable  fcent. 

This  tree  grows  in  Mount  Sinai  and  Upper 
Egypt.     The  Arabians  call  it  feftuck  el  Ban. 

Rhamnus  fpina  Chrifti.  The  Egyptian  buck- 
thorn. 

QEnoplia  fpinofa,  Cafpar  Bauhin.  477. 
lN2Lbcd.Paliurus  athenai,  Alpin.  iEgypt.  i6.  19. 

The  Naba  or  Nabka  of  the  Arabians. 

In  all  probability  this  is  the  tree  which  afforded 
the  crown  of  thorns  put  on  the  head  of  Chrift  ;  it 
grows  very  common  in  the  Eaft.  This  plant  was 
very  fit  for  the  purpofe,    for  it  has  many  fmall 

and 


OF  THE   SCRIPTURES.     289 

and  fharp  fpines,  which  are  well  adapted  to  give 
pain  i  the  crown  mighc  be  eafily  made  of  thefe 
foft,  round,  and  pliant  branches,  and  what  in  my 
opinion  feems  to  be  the  greated  proof,  is,  that  the 
leaves  much  refemble  thoie  of  ivy,  as  they  are  of 
a  very  deep  green.  Perhaps  the  enemies  of 
Chriil,  would  have  a  plant  fomewhat  refembling 
that,  with  which  emperors  and  generals  were  ufed. 
to  be  crowned,  that  there  might  be  calumny  even 
in  the  punifhment. 

Spinse  Biblicse.      Of  Thorns    mentioned  in   the 
Scriptures. 

We  know  very  few  of  the  Thorns  which  are 
mentioned  in  the  Scriptures,  The  reft-harrow, 
(Ononis  fpinofa)  that  moft  pernicious  and  prickly 
plant,  covers  entire  fields  and  plains  in  Egypt  and 
Paleftlne.  I  make  no  doubt,  but  this  is  referred 
to  in  fome  parts  of  the  holy  Scripture  ;  I  Ihall 
leave  Philologifts  to  determine  which  of  the 
Thorns  there  mentioned  it  is.  The  Arabians,  at 
prefent  in  Egypt,  call  it  akol.  This  is,  perhaps, 
that  which  Mofes  means  when  he  curies  the  earth; 
it  grows  in  great  plenty,  promiifcuoufly  with  the 
large  thiilles,  in  the  uncultivated  parts  of  Egypt. 

Labrufca.     Of  the  wild  Grapes  of  the  Scriptures. 

Ifaiah  in  chap,  v.  ver.  4.  fayeth :  PVhat  could 
have  been  done  more  to  my  vineyard,  that  I  have  not 
done  in  it ;  wherefore  when  I  looh:d  that  it  jhotild 
bring  forth  grapes,  brought  it  forth  wild  grapes  ?  I 
am  inclined  to  believe,  that  the  Prophet  here 
means  the  hoary  nighilliade  (Solanum  mcanum) 
becaufe  it  is  common  in  Egypt,  Paleftine,  and  the 
Eaft,  and  the  Arabian  name  agrees  well  v/ith  it. 

U  The 


^o    THE  NATURAL  HISTORY 

The  Arabs  call  it  aneb  el  dih,  i.  e.  wolf-grapes, 
The  Prophet  could  not  have  found  a  plant  more 
oppofite  to  the  vine  than  this,  for  it  grows  much 
in  the  vineyards,  and  is  very  pernicious  to  them, 
wherefore  they  root  it  out ;  it  likewife  refembles 
a  vine  by  its  Ihrubby  ftalk. 

Of  the  Onions  of  the  Ifraelites. 

Allium  cepa,  Onion  ;  by  the  Arabs  called  Bafal. 
That  this  was  one  of  the  fpecies  of  Onions,  for 
which  the  Ifraelites  longed,  we  may  guefs  by  the 
quantity  to  this  day  ufed  in  Egypt,  and  by  their 
goodnefs  there  -,  whoever  has  tafted  Onions  in  Egypt, 
muft  allow,  that  none  can  be  had  better  in  any 
part  in  the  univerfe  :  here  they  are  fweet,  in  other 
countries  they  are  naufeous  and  ftrong  ;  here  they 
are  foft,  whereas  in  the  North  and  other  parts  they 
are  hard,  and  the  coats  fo  compad,  that  they  are 
hard  of  digeilion.  Hence  they  cannot  in  any  place 
be  eaten  with  Jefs  prejudice,  and  more  fatisfaftion, 
than  in  Egypt.  The  juft  longing  of  the  Ifraelites 
teaches  us,  that  they  were  introduced  into  the  kit- 
chen, about  the  time  they  left  Egypt.  They  eat 
them  roafted,  cut  into  four  pieces,  with  fome  bits 
of  roafted  meat,  which  the  Turks,  in  Egypt,  call 
kehah',  and  with  this  difh  they  are  fo  delighted, 
that  1  have  heard  them  wifh  they  might  enjoy  it 
in  Paradife.  They  likewife  make  a  foup  of  them 
in  Egypt,  cutting  the  Onions  in  fmall  pieces  ;  this 
I  think  one  of  the  belt  difhes  I  ever  eat. 

Allium  fativum.   Linnasi.     Garlick. 

Is  by  the  Arabians  called  Turn.  This  is  alfo 
much  ufed;  but  I  am  inclined  to  think,  it  was 
not  known  to  the  Ifraelites,  as  it  does  not  grow  in 


OF  THE  SCRIPTURES.     291 

Egypt,    but  is  brought  hither  from  the  idands  in 
Archipelago. 

Allium  'porrum.     Linn^i.     Leeks.     Karratdfthe 
Arabians. 

This  was  certainly  one  of  thofe  defired  by  the 
Children  oflfrael,  as  it  has  been  cultivated  from 
the  earlieft  times  to  the  prefect  in  Egypt. 
The  feafons  for  this,  are  the  winter  and  fpring 
months :  the  inhabitants  are  very  fond  of  it, 
eating  it  raw  as  fauce  for  their  roaft  meat  -,  the 
poor  people  eat  it  raw  with  bread,  efpecially  for 
breakfaft,  ufing  the  earth  for  a  table,  and  v/ould 
fcarcely  exchange  their  leeks  and  a  bit  of  bread 
for  a  royal  dinner. 

Leo.  The  Lion.     The  Arabs  call  this  Animal 
Sabbe. 

This  is  not  met  with  in  Syria  or  Palefline  -,  but  in 
great  numbers  at  Babylon,  now  Bagdad).  It  is  not 
an  inhabitant  of  Egypt,  unlefs  it  be  on  the  confines 
of  Lybia,  coming  from  the  inland  parts  of  Africa. 
How  is  this  confident  with  the  Bible,  where  the 
Lion  is  mentioned  as  an  animal  common  to  Palef- 
tine  and  Syria,  efpecially  in  the  hiilory  of  Samp- 
fon  ?  Where  did  the  fight  between  Sampfon  and 
the  lion  happen  ? 

Locultse  Johannis.     St.  John's  Locufts. 
Of  thefe  I  have  already  treated. 

Petra  Mofis. 

The  Rock  which  Mofes  broke  by  a  miracle, 
Exod,  xvii.   6.    and  out  of  which  he  made  the 

U  2  tables 


292  THE  NATURAL  HISTORY,&c. 

tables  for  the  Ten  Commandments,  was  a  faxum 
miLacco  fpatofum  particulis  qaartzofis  paucioribus, 
in  plain  terms,  a  granite,  of  which  Mount  Hereby 
v^here  the  miracle  happened,  confifts,  as  does 
IN'^iount  Sinai^  where  the  tables  were  formed. 
Mofes  had  learned  the  ufe  of  this  ftone,  for  in- 
fcribing  letters  and  figures,  from  the  Egyptians, 
as  i.i  Egypt  hieroglyphick  obelifks  are  made  of 
the  fame  tioiie,  and  are  miracles  of  art. 

When  the  Aiabians  intend  todefcribea  beauty, 
they  make  ufe  of  feveral  fimilitudes.  The  y  com- 
pare her  face  to  the  moon,  &c.  ^c.  Amongft 
others,  the  mofl  remarkable  and  common  expref- 
fion  of  this  kind  is,  when  they  compare  the  eyes 
of  a  beauty  to  the  eyes  of  a  rock  goat,  (C^pra 
cervicapra,  Linnsei)  which  is  a  common  animal 
in  Syria  and  Egypt.  I  think  this  comparifon  re- 
markable, becaufe  Solomon  in  his  Canticles  ufes 
comparjfons,  which  are  takenfrom  the  fame  animal; 
let  us  compare  the  Hebrew  text  to  explain  his  mean- 
ing. We  have  therefore  no  reafon  to  doubt,  but 
that  the  Doe  of  Solomon  was  this  Rock  goat.  The 
beauty  of  the  animal,  its  being  common  in  the 
countries  where  Solomon  wrote  his  books,  and 
finally,  the  cuftom,  which  has  continued  to  this 
day,  and  is  the  fame  with  that  of  Solomon,  are 
all  circumftances  which  help  to  confirm  us  in  this 
opinion. 


MATERIA 


MATERIA    MEDIC  A.       293 


MATERIA     MEDIC  A. 


The  Defcription  of  the  true  Balfam  of  Mecc-a. 

IT  is  of  a  yellow  colour,  and  pellucid.  It  has  a 
moll  fragrant  fmell,  which  is  refinous,  bal- 
famick,  and  very  agreeable.  It  is  very  tena- 
cious or  glutinous,  (ticking  to  the  fingers,  and 
may  be  diawn  into  long  threads.  It  fcarcely  ever 
becomes  fluid  or  liquid  by  the  heat  of  the  fun  in 
Natolia. 

I  HAVE  feen  it  at  a  Turkifh  furgeon's,  who  had 
it  immediately  from  Mecca,  defcribed  it,  and  was 
informed  of  its  virtues,  which  are  :  firft,  that  it  is 
the  beft  fiomachick  they  know,  if  taken  to  three 
grains,  toftrengthen  a  weak  ftomach-,  fecondly,  that 
it  is  a  mod  excellent  and  capital  remedy  for  curing 
wounds  i  for  if  a  few  drops  of  it  are  applied  to 
the  frefh  wound,  it  cures  it  in  a  very  fhort  time. 

An  Experiment  to  know  whether  the  Balfam  of 
Mecca  be  true  and  not  adulterated. 

A  DROP  of  the  Balfam  is  dropt  into  a  glafs  of 
clear  and  frefh  fpring  water;  if  this  drop  remains 
in  one  place  on  the  furface  of  the  water,  the  Bal- 
fam is  of  little  value  ;  but  if  it  inilantly  extends 
itleif  like  a  fkin  or  pellicle,  over  the  whole  furface, 
and  with  a  hair,  filk  or  thread,  this  fkin  may  be 
taken  ofFthe  water,  which  mull  afterwards  be  as 

U  3  clear 


294      MATERIA    MEDIC  A. 

clear  as  at  firft,  it  is  a  fign  that  the  Balfam  is  of  the 
belt  kind,  and  riot  adulterated.  It  is  admitted, 
even  by  the  Turks,  that  it  is  very  difficult  to  find 
Balfam  which  will  ftand  this  proofs  for  the  true 
Balfam  of  Mecra  is  fcarcely  to  be  found  any  where 
but  in  the  poffeffion  of  the  Turkifh  Emperor  and 
the  grandees  of  the  kingdom,  who  get  it  as  a 
valuable  prefent  from  fome  traveller  who  hath  been 
at  Mecca.  In  order  to  make  fure  of  getting  this 
valuable  drug  unadulterated,  it  is  neceffary  either  by 
friendfhip  or  money,  at  the  time  the  caravan  goes  to 
Mecca,  to  gain  the  intereftof  a  Turk,  who  will  pro- 
cure it  genuine  from  the  firft  hand,  and  then  we  may 
be  affured  of  its  goodnefs,  and  that  it  poffelTes 
the  excellent  virtues,  which  the  innumerable  ex- 
periments made  by  the  inhabitants  of  the  Eaft: 
confirm. 

The  2oth  of  June,  I  went  round  the  city  of 
Cairo  to  enquire  for  Balfam  of  Mecca,  with  an 
intention  to  buy  fome,  if  I  could  get  any  that  was 
good.  I  faw  the  manner  in  vv'hich  an  Italian 
merchant,  who  had  been  thirty  years  at  Cairo, 
tried  it,  it  was  as  follows  :  He  dropped  fome  drops 
of  the  Balfam  into  a  little  China  cup,  filled  with 
clear  cold  water ;  if  thefe  immediately  exten- 
ded themfelves  in  a  fkin,  and  this  flun  was  even 
and  clear,  and  entirely  free  from  bubbles,  he 
pronounced  the  Balfam  good  5  but  if  it  was  fome 
time  before  they  fpread  over  the  water,  and  the 
Ikin  v/as  dirty,  and  had  feveral  bubbles  or  air 
bladders,  it  was  a  fure  fign  that  the  Balfam  was 
adulterated  and  mixed  with  other  things.  If  the 
Ikin  can  be  gathered  and  wound  up  on  a  little 
ftraw,  without  breaking  or  leaving  any  oil  on  the 
water,  it  was  likewife  good  •,  and  on  the  contrary, 
if  the  Hiin  cannot, be  gathered,  but  breaks  into 

feveral 


MATERIA    MEDIC  A.      295 

feveral  pieces,  and  leaves  on  the  water  fome  oily 
colour,  red  particles,  we  may  fafely  conclude,  that 
the  Balfam  is  adulterated.  ,  I  faw  experiments 
made,  both  of  the  true  and  adulterated,  and 
found  them  well  grounded.  The  bubbles  in  the 
firft  experiment,  and  the  breaking  or  dividing  of 
the  fl^in  in  the  fecond,  are  owing  to  the  extra- 
neous particles  with  which  the  Balfam  has  been 
adulterated.  The  drugs  ufed  to  adulterate  the 
Balfam,  or  to  encreafe  it  in  bulk,  but  diminifli  its 
virtues,  are  oil  of  (Sefamum)  oily  grain,  which  is 
extracted  in  large  quantities  in  Egypt ;  Cyprus 
turpentine  and  the  fat  of  oftriches  -,  thefe  are  not 
all  mixed  with  it  at  one  time,  but  according  to 
the  convenience  of  the  feller ;  and  in  this  manner, 
almoft  all  the  Balfam  expofed  for  fale  is  adulter- 
ated, even  in  the  place  whence  it  is  firll  brought. 

None  of  thofe  v/ho  have  wrote  on  the  Balfam 
of  Mecca,  have  been  acquainted  with  the  place 
whence  it  is  brought.  Every  body  knows,  that 
it  comes  from  Mecca,  and  I  believe  imagine,  that 
it  grows  fomewhere  near  that  place.  We  have 
even  travels  and  hillories  informing  us  of  the 
gardens  round  Mecca,  in  which  this  tree  is  plant- 
ed and  carefully  cultivated,  of  the  prerogative  the 
Turkifh  Emperor  enjoys,  to  preferve  the  bell  for 
himfelf,  of  the  guard  the  Turks  conftantly  keep 
that  none  of  the  trees  may  be  carried  thence.  This 
flory  has  been  hitherto  believed  juft  as  it  was  re- 
prefented  by  the  firft  relator,  who  told  us  this, 
that  he  might  not  be  thought  intirely  ignorant  of 
the  matter.  It  would  be  worth  while  to  make  a 
journey  to  the  place  where  this  tree  grows,  in  or- 
der to  obtain  a  true  hiftory  of  it  •,  but  this  cannot 
be  done  by  a  Chriftian  ;  we  muft  therefore  truft 
to  the  informations  we  can  get  from  fuch  as  are 
U  4  permitted 


296     MATERIA    ME  Die  a; 

permitted  to  fee  thofe  places,  and  believe  the  molt 
credible  of  them.  I  have  afked  creditable  perfons^ 
who  hid  been  in  Pvlecca,  concerning  this  affair, 
and  in  particular,  an  Aga  of  the  Caftle  at  Roferta, 
and  a  Scheck  in  Cairo;  the  former  in  the  prefence 
of  Mr.  Chabert,  a  French  merchant  in  Rofetta, 
and  the  latter  through  Mr.  Le  Grand,  the  French 
Interpreter  in  Cairo.  They  both  gave  me  a  very 
different  account  of  the  place  where  the  Balfam- 
tree  grows,  from  that  which  I  had  read  before  in 
books.  They  affured  me,  that  the  Balfam-tree  is 
as  little  known  at  Mecca,  as  in  Egypt  and  Turkey, 
and  that  not  a  drop  of  Balfam  is  gathered  within 
many  miles  of  Mecca.  The  place  whence  the 
Balfam  is  brought,  lies  many  day's  journey  from 
Mecca,  and  in  Petrea  Arabia.  There  the  trees 
grow  in  the  mountains,  and  are  poffcffed  as  a  va- 
luable treafure  by  certain  Arabian  families.  The 
Arabians  carry  ihe  Balfam  to  Mecca,  and  there 
fell  it  during  the  time  the  Caravan  from  Egypt 
and  Turkey  tarries  there  ;  by  the  Caravan  it  is 
carried  to  Damafcus  and  Cairo,  thence  through 
all  Turkey,  and  farther  if  poffible,  hut  this  is 
fcarcely  credible,  as  very  little  of  the  genuine 
Balfam  comes  to  Mecca.  The  I'urkiffi  Emperor 
enjoys  no  privileges,  by  which  he  may  refeive  the 
beft  for  himfelf ;  the  Arabians  are  an  independant 
and  free  people,  they  fell  their  commodity  to 
■whom  they  pleafe.  The  Sultan  orders  fome  con- 
fiderable  man  at  Mecca,  as  the  firfl:  Scheck,  or 
fome  other,  to  buy  a  certain  quantity  of  it  yearly 
on  his  account,  and  therefore  is  fure  to  tiave  it 
good.  I  have  been  affured,  by  thofe  who  have 
been  in  Arabia  and  feen  the  tree,  that  its  leaves 
refemble  thofe  of  Myrtle^  but  are  a  little  larger. 
By  the  informations  which  I  could  obiain,  I  have 

reafon 


MATERIA    MEDIC  A.      297 

reafon  to  believe,  that  Dr.  Linnseus  rightly  gueflf- 
ed  that  the  tree  is  a  Pijiacia^  or  neareft  a-kin  to  it, 
and  therefore  clofely  allied  to  the  Majlich  and  2«r- 
pentine  trees  *. 

Mastix,  by  the  modern  Greeks  called  jaapxa; 
comes  in  large  quantities  from  Scio,  and  is  much 
ufed  by  the  Turks  •,  for  the  wives  of  the  Turks 
in  particular,  the  Sultan's  and  Grandees's,  chew 
it  conftantly,  to  keep  their  teeth  white  and  clean, 
and  their  breach  fweet. 

Olibanum.     Frankincenfe. 

This  is  colledled  in  both  the  Arabia's,  whence 
it  is  brought  to  Giedda,  which  is  the  harbour  of 
Mecca,  thence  over  the  Red  Sea  to  Suez,  a  harbour 
in  Egypt,  and  fo  to  Cairo  in  confiderable  quan- 
tities;  ic  is  likewife  brought  from  Mecca  over 
land,  by  the  Caravan.  When  it  is  brought  over, 
it  is  fo  full  of  finall  ftones  of  Spar  and  Mica,  than 
150  lb.  will  not  yield  above  from  50  to  70  lb.  of 
clean  and  pure  Frankincenfe.  Thegreatefl:  part 
is  carried  to  Marfeiiles,  whence  it  is  by  the  Dutch 
carried  to  Mufcovy  where  the  greateft  part  of  it  is 
ufed  in  making  the  Ruffian  leather  ;  a  large  quan- 
tity is  iikewife  burnt  by  the  Mufcovites  and  Roman 
Catholics  in  their  churches.  It  differs  greatly  both 
in  price  and  goodnefs,  iiolb.  falling  from  9  to 
23  Piaflrers,  (each  Piafler  at  60  Medins)  accord- 
ing to  the  goodnefs  of  it.  The  beft  is  in  tears, 
ot  a  fragrant  fmel],  pellucid,    and  of  a  yellowifh 

*  ProfefTor  Linnsens  in  a  letter  dated  Upfala,  Feb.  12th, 
1765.  to  Jchn  Ellis,  Efq;  F.  R.  S.  fays,  that  the  late  Dr.  For- 
ikohl  fent  him  a  fpecimen  of  the  Balfam  of  Mecca  tree,  by 
u'hich  it  appears  to  be  a  fpecies  of  Amyris.  N.  B.  Several 
fpecks  of  this  genus  grow  in  Jamaica. 

white 


«98      MATERIA    MEDIC  A. 

white  colour,  brittle  and  eafily  pulverized  ;  of  this 
very  little  is  to  be  found  in  large  quantities  in  the 
common  Frankincenfe,  and  is  not  to  be  feparated 
from  it,  unlefs  it  be  particularly  defired  for  the 
Apothecaries  Ihops. 

An  Example  of  the  nutritive  Virtue  of  Gum 
Arabic. 

The  Abyfllnians  make  a  journey  to  Cairo  eve- 
ry year,  to  fell  the  products  of  their  country: 
Slaves,  Gold,  Elephants,  Brags,  Monkeys,  Parrots^ 
&c.  They  muft  travel  over  terrible  defarts,  and 
their  journey  depends  as  much  on  the  weather  as  a 
voyage  at  fea,  confequently  they  know  as  little 
as  a  feaman  how  long  they  muft  be  on  the  journey, 
and  the  neceffaries  of  life  may  chance  to  fail  them, 
■when  the  journey  lafts  too  long.  This  happened 
to  the  Abyfiinian  Caravan  in  the  year  1750,  their 
provifions  being  confumed,  when  they  had  ftill 
two  months  to  travel  ;  neceflity  obliges  us  often  to 
wfe  things  for  food  before  unheard  or  untliought 
of',  this  happened  in  the  cafe  in  queftion  ;  they 
were  obliged  to  fearch  for  fomething  amongft  their 
merchandize,  wherewith  they  might  fupport  life  in 
this  extremity,  and  found  nothing  more  proper 
than  Gum  Arabic,  of  which  they  had  carried  a 
confiderable  quantity  with  them.  This  ferved  to 
fupport  above  loooperfons  for  two  months. 

Gum  Arabic  is  gelatinous,  and  undoubtedly  con- 
tains feme  nourifhing  particles.  But  here  we  may 
afk.  Whether  this  food  did  not  make  thefe  poor 
people  very  coftive  ?  It  mufl.  in  all  probability  have 
had  this  effeft,  but  of  this  I  could  not  learn  any 
circumftances.  I  know  however,  that  the  Cara- 
van 


MATERIA    MEDIC  A,      299 

van  arrived  fafe  at  Cairo,  without  any  great  lofs 
of  people  either  by  hunger  or  difeafes. 

Opium.  We  are  told  that  the  Turks  formerly 
confumed  large  quantities  of  this  drug,  at  prefent 
it  is  ufed  by  very  few,  and  fcarcely  by  any,  except 
thofe  who  ftridly  follow  the  laws  of  Mahomed, 
and  therefore  abftain  from  wine,  and  all  other 
fpirituous  liquors.  Bat  there  are  very  few  at  this 
time  who  obferve  them  fo  ftridly,  efpecially  a- - 
mongft  the  vulgar  •,  perhaps  there  were  formerly 
more,  and  then  it  is  poffible  Opium  was  more 
frequently  ufed  ;  fuch  as  now  make  ufe  of  Opium 
have  a  trembhng  of  the  nerves,  are  (leepy,  and  be- 
come very  weak,  therefore  the  Turks,  who  fee 
this,  with  great  reafon,  leave  off  a  cuilom  fo  evi- 
dently deftrudive. 

Caflia  Fiftula. 
I'he  manner  of  "preparing  it  in  Egypt, 

The  Pods  are  coUeded  before  they  are  quite 
ripe,  and  carried  into  a  very  clofe  room  in  which 
has  been  previoufly  prepared  a  bed  of  palm  leaves 
and  ftraw  fix  inches  thick,  on  this  they  lay  the 
Pods  in  a  heap.  The  door  is  then  clofely  fhut,  and 
the  next  day  they  fprinkle  water  on  the  heap, 
which  is  repeated  the  day  following;  thus  they 
lay  heaped  for  forty  days,  'till  they  become  black, 
Odiers  dig  a  hole  in  the  ground  to  put  them  in, 
but  this  method  is  much  inferior  to  the  former. 

Scammonium.     Scammony. 

The  beft  Scammony  in  the  world  is  brought 
from  Marafch^  the  refidence  of  a  Balhaw,  about 
four  days  journey  from  Aleppo,  near  the  confines 

,      of 


Soo      MATERIA    M  E  D  I  C  A. 

of  Armenia.  It  is  thence  brought  to  Aleppo  in 
fmall  Ikins,  and  by  the  merchants  fen t  to  London 
and  Marfeilles,  It  was  formerly,  to  be  had  very 
good  from  Mount  Carmel^  by  way  of  Acra,  buC 
at  prefent,  fcarcely  any  comes  from  that  place,  as 
the  Arabian  inhabitants  of  the  mountain  have 
negkfted  to  gather  it,  being  more  addided  to 
plunder  than  labour.  I  have  feen  the  C'lnvolvulus^ 
from  whicli  it  is  taken,  grow  wild  in  the  vales 
between  Nazareth  and  Mount  Carmel. 

Schoenanthus  Officinalis.     Camel's  Hay. 

This  grows  plentifully  in  the  defarts  of  both  the 
Arabias  ;  it  is  gathered  near  Ltmbo^  a  port  in  Ara- 
bia Pe  rea,  and  exported  to  Egypt.  The  Venetians 
buy  it  in  Egypt,  as  it  enters  the  compofition  of 
the  Venice  treacle  This  was  undoubtedly  one  of 
the  precious,  aromatic  and  fweet  plants  which 
Queen  Sheba  gave  to  Solomon,  being  to  this  day 
much  efteemed  by  the  Arabians  for  its  fweer  fmelL 

They  call  it  Helfi  Meccavi,  and  Idhir  Mecchi, 

Senna. 

All  the  Senna  grov/s  wild  in  upper  Egypt.  It 
is  gathered  by  the  Bedovines  or  Arabian  Peafants, 
who  fell  it  to  their  Scheick  or  Headman.  When 
he  has  collecled  a  large  quantity  he  carries  it  to 
Cairo,  where  he  felh  ic  to  a  particular  Perfon,  who 
rents  the  privilege  of  felling  this  drug  to  the  Eu- 
ropeans, from  the  corps  of  Janiffaries  at  Cairo, 
who  difpofe  of  it  to  the  bed  advantage.  At  pre- 
fent Ibraim  Kisefa,  the  powerful  Governor  and 
Ufurper  over  Egypt,  has  afilimed  this  privilege, 
and  rented  it  to  two  Jews,    who  were   likewife 

farmers 


MATERIA    MEDIC  A.      301 

farmers  of  the  cuftoms.  Of  thefe  the  Europeans 
buy  yearly  as  much  as  they  wane.  But  it  is  not 
every  European  that  can  buy,  nor  can  any  nation 
purchafe  what  quantity  it  thinks  proper.  They 
are  obliged  to  make  three  lots,  one  for  Mar[eilles^ 
another  for  Leghorn^  and  a  third  for  Venice^  and 
each  lot  is  to  be  purchafed  by  one  merchant.  Senna 
therefore  is  a  commodity  which,  next  to  Nutmeg 
and  Cinnamon,  of  whioh  the  Dutch  are  the  foie 
polTefTors,  is  more  monopoiized  than  any  other. 
The  Egyptians  may  alfo  fct  what  value  they  pleafe 
on  this  drug,  as  it  is  wanted  in  all  parts  of  the 
world,  and  grows  no  where  fo  good  as  here.  They 
fend  to  Marfeiiles  yearly  600  Boats,  each  con- 
taining 10  Quintals,  each  Quintal  at  20  Sequins, 
more  or  lefs ;    a  Sequin  confills  of  1 100  Medins. 

Myrobalani  Officinales. 

The  writers  on  Materia  Medica  know  very  lit- 
tle of  the  Myrobalans,  which  are  but  little  uied  at 
prefent,  and  fiiould  not  obtain  a  place  in  the  (hops. 
But  they  are  fcill  in  ufe  with  the  Egyptians  and 
Arabians,  who  drink  the  decoftion  of  all  the  My- 
robalans as  a  purge,  efpecialiy  in  Upper  Egypt. 
This  medicine  operates  as  a  corroborant  as  well  as 
a  cathartic,  and  might  therefore  anfwer  very  well 
as  a  fuccedaneum  for  rhubarb,  when  this  laft  can- 
not be  had  •,  but  it  is  of  no  value  as  long  as  we 
can  have  rhubarb.  The  Arabian  Phyficians  fir(t 
introduced  the  Myrobalans,  which  at  prefent  are 
only  ufed  by  them  and  their  countrymen.  Bota- 
nifis  know  ftill  lefs  of  this  fruit,  which  grows  in 
India  near  Malabar,  and  on  the  confines  of  Ben- 
gal ;  whence  it  is  brought  with  other  fimples  to 
Mecca,  and  over  the  Red  Sea  to  Cairo.     A  tree 

of 


502     MATERIA    MEDIC  a; 

of  Myrobalans  was  feen  at  Farfchut,  a  town  in 
Upper  Egypt,  fubjed  to  an  Arabian  Prince,  by 
Jeremias  Kerner,  a  Silefian  (iVlifTionary  from  the 
Society  to  prop{!gate  Ch  iilian  Knowledge)  who 
afferts,  that  alJ  the  Myrobalans  are  taken  from 
the  fame  tree,  but  do  not  ripen  at  one  time-,  and 
fays,  that  the  inhabitants  are  very  careful  to  dif- 
tinguilh  one  from  the  other,  and  gather  the  ripe 
ones,  without  mixing  or  confounding  them  with 
the  others,  giving  them  different  names  according 
to  their  qualities,  Chaheli^  Ajphar  Bellili^  Embliliy 
Hendi^  Chejri.  I  ordered  a  perfon  to  bring  me  one 
of  thefe  trees  from  Upper  Egypt,  but  I  could  not 
get  it  before  I  left  Egypt. 

Spica  Celtica.     The  Celtic  Spiknard. 

The  Spiknard  is  much  more  ufed  by  the  Peo- 
ple of  Inner  Africa,  Abyfllnia,  and  ^Ethiopia,  than 
by  us ;  and  in  fuch  quantities,  that  there  are  year- 
ly 60  tons  imported  by  way  of  Venice  into  Egypt 
from  Germany,  each  ton  is  by  the  Ethiopian 
merchants  bought  for  near  100  rixdollars.  They 
make  an  ointment  of  it,  which  they  ufe  to  keep 
the  fkin  foft  in  their  fcorching  climate,  and  to 
make  it  Jhine,  for  in  this  they  think  confifts  its 
greateft  beauty. 

Mumia  Mineralis. 

This  is  a  bituminous,  fhining,  brittle,  black, 
and  almoft  inodorous  mafs,  which  is  brought 
from  Perfia.  It  is  exceffively  dear,  for  one  dram 
of  it  cofts  from  2  to  4  and  5  Sequins  in  Egypt, 
according  to  its  fcarcity  and  goodnefs  ■,  it  is  much 
dearer  than  Amber,  wherefore  the  Grandees  of 
Egypt  and  Turkey  preferve  it  among  their  other 

rarities  J 


MATERIA    MEDIC  A.      so| 

rarities  ;  thefe  are  :  Amber,  the  true  Bezoar  ftone, 
the  horn  of  the  Rhinoceros,  particularly  veffels 
made  of  it,  out  of  which  they  drink  water  ;  ali 
thefe  are  with  them  of  the  fame  value,  as  precious 
ftones  and  jewels,  and  they  preferve  them  as  care- 
"fuliy.  The  Ambergris  {ambra  grifea)  they  offer 
to  the  Goddefs  of  Beauty,  whom  thefe  people  ve- 
nerate to  the  higheft  degree  -,  the  Bezoar  ftone 
and  Rhinoceros  horn,  are  both  ufed  as  alexiphar- 
mics,  fudorifics,  and  againft  poifon,  for  which 
reafon  they  preferve  them  as  their  tutelar  Gods, 
againft  that  kind  of  Death,  to  which  the  Gran- 
dees are  fo  much  fubjeft,  and  therefore  live  ia 
conftant  fear.  But  this  Mumia  Mineralis,  they 
fay,  is  a  great  vulnerary.  If  experience  con- 
firms the  accounts  the  Egyptians  give  of  it,  it  is 
certainly  the  greateft  remedy  hitherto  known 
for  curing  wounds.  They  make  an  ointment  of 
the  Mumia  Mineralis  pulverized  and  mixed  with, 
fweet  oil ;  break  the  leg  of  a  hen,  anoint  it  with 
this  ointment  and  tie  it  up,  if  the  Mummy 
is  genuine,  the  leg  is  cured  within  three  hourd ; 
and  this  is  the  method  they  ufe  to  try  whe- 
ther the  Mummy  is  good;  but  if  the  leg  is  not 
cured  Vv'ithin  the  time  mentioned,  they  reject  it  as 
of  no  value.  They  fay,  that  the  leg  of  a  man  is 
cured  within  twenty  four  hours,  if  this  remedy  is 
applied.  I  have  myfelf  feen  and  defcribed  the 
Mummy,  but  have  not  been  an  eye-witnefs  of 
its  efficacy,  as  it  is  very  dear  and  fcarce  :  but  fe- 
veral  furgeons  in  Cairo  afferted  the  truth  of  it,  and 
told  me,  they  had  feen  and  admired  the  experi- 
ment; thefe  were  men  of  probity  and  veracity. 
It  is  certainly  a  fpecies  of  bitumen,  but  I  am  noc 
able  to  fay,  whether  it  is  any  of  thofe  hitherto 
known,  if  not  the  firft  in  Linnseis's  fyftem  of  na- 

turci. 


504      MATERIA    MEDIC  A. 

ture,  which  is  the  fame  as  the  Naphta  of  authors," 
hardened  by  the  heat  of  the  fun.  The  Egyptians 
call  it,  Mumia  MineraUs,ixo\r\  the  exaft  refemblance 
it  bears  to  the  mafs,  which  is  taken  out  of  the 
lliull  of  the  Mummies  in  Egypt. 

Unguentum  Mumias.     Ointment  of  Mumy. 

The  Egyptians  make  an  unguentum  potabile, 
or  liquid  ointment  of  Mumy,  by  mixing  the 
powder  of  Mumy  with  butter,  which  they  call 
Manteg^  this  they  take  inwardly  when  they  are 
wounded.  A  credible  perfon  in  Alexandria  af- 
fured  me,  that  he  faw  a  Moor  perfedlly  cured  in  a 
ihorc  time,  without  having  ufed  or  applied  any 
other  medicine,  of  a  wound  in  the  fide,  between 
the  ribs,  made  with  a  knife,  which  had  pierced 
the  mufculos  intercoftales  -,  this  man  immediately 
drank  a  dofe  of  this  ointment,  about  Ibij,  and 
likewife  anointed  the  wound  with  fome  of  it. 
The  Egyptians  ufe  it  alfo  frequently  for  their 
cattle,  camels,  affes,  fheep,  oxen,  &c.  &c.  both 
inwardly  and  outwardly,  for  wounds,  fraftures, 
againft  witchcraft,  which  they  believe  can  hurt 
their  cattle,  and  almofl  in  all  difeafes  with  which 
their  cattle  are  afflided. 

The  method  of  making  Sal  Ammoniac  in  Egypt. 

Sal  Ammoniac  is  made  from  the  foot  arifing 
from  the  burnt  dung  of  four-footed  animals,  that 
feed  only  on  vegetables,  and  of  human  excrements. 

This  dung  is  collefted  in  the  four  firll  months 
of  the  year,  when  all  their  cattle,  fuch  as  oxen, 
cows,  buffaloes,  camels,  Iheep,  goats,  horfes  and 
afles,  feed  on  frefh  fpring  grafs,  which  in  Egypt, 

is 


MATERIA    MEDICA;      30$ 

Is  a  kind  of  trefoil  or  clover :  for  when  they  are 
obliged  to  feed  their  cattle  on  hay,  and  their 
camels  on  bruifed  date  kernels,  their  excrements 
are  not  fit  for  this  purpofe  ;  but  when  they  feed 
on  grafs,  the  poor  people  of  Egypt  are  very  care- 
ful in  coile6ling  the  dung  quite  frefti,  and  for 
that  purpofe  follow  the  cattle  all  day  long  ;  if  it 
is  too  moift,  they  mix  it  with  chaff,  ftubble,  (hort 
ftraw,  or  dufl,  and  make  it  up  in  the  form  of  cakes; 
then  they  lay  it  on  a  wall  to  dry,  till  it  is  fit  to  be 
burnt. 

For  want  of  wood,  which  none  but  the  rich  in 
Egypt  can  afford  to  buy,  they  burn  this  dung 
through  the  whole  country,  and  fell  a  vaft  quan- 
tity of  foot  to  the  fak-makers.  If  the  country 
wanted  this  dung  for  manure,  it  would  be  bad 
ceconomy  •,  but  as  nature  has  provided  Egypt  with 
manure  of  a  quite  different  nature,  viz.  the  mud 
depofited  by  the  Nile  when  it  overflows  the  coun- 
try, the  inhabitants  are  much  to  be  commended 
for  applying  the  dung  to  another  ufe. 

The  excrements  of  the  camel  are  not  found  at 
all  preferable  to  any  other,  and  its  urine  is  never 
ufed  for  this  purpofe,  although  generally  reported 
fo  by  authors. 

The  fait  workers  pretend,  that  the  human  ex- 
crements, and  thofe  of  goats  and  Iheep,  are  pre- 
ferable to  any  other.  In  the  months  of  March 
and  April  only  they  make  the  fait. 

The  village  Giza,  which  is  fituated  at  a  fmall 
diftance  from  Cairo,  is  the  only  place  near  that 
city  where  they  make  this  fait.  There  is  no  ma- 
nufadlory  of  it  in  Cairo  ;  but  there  are  numbers 
in  the  ifland  Delia, 

A  PERSON  who  pofTefTes  a  village,  in  which  there 
is  a  fait  manufadorv,  lets  his  peafants  work  it, 

X  for 


So6      MATERIA   ME  Die  A; 

for  there  is  no  great  art  in  it.  Thofe  who  work 
at  it  are  miferable  wretches  ;  as  indeed  are  all  the 
common  people  in  Egypt.  The  foot,  and  every 
thing  elfe  requifite  for  making  the  fait,  is  weighed 
to  them,  and  they  are  obliged  to  deliver  fait  in 
proportion,  by  which  they  cannot  wrong  their 
mafters  of  an  ounce.  I  fhall  now  defcribe  the 
method  of  making  it,  which,  though  it  is  very 
fimple,  has  puzzled  many  chemifts.  I  doubt  not 
butchemifts  may  invent  fome  better  method,  for 
this  is  very  fimple.  They  build  an  oblong  oven, 
about  as  long  again  as  broad,  of  brick  and  moift 
dung  i  of  fuch  a  fize,  that  the  outfide,  or  flat  pare 
of  the  top  of  the  arch,  may  hold  fifty  glafs  vefTels, 
ten  in  length  and  five  in  breadth,  each  veflfel  having 
a  cavity  left  for  it  in  the  brick  work  of  the  arch. 
Thefe  glafs  vefTels  are  globular,  with  a  neck  an 
inch  long,  and  two  inches  wide.  They  are  of 
various  fizes,  in  different  fait  works,  containing 
from  a  gallon  to  two  gallons  5  but  in  general,  are 
but  eighteen  inches  diameter.  They  coat  each 
vefl'el  over  with  a  fine  clay,  (which  they  find  in 
the  Nile)  and  afterwards  with  ftraw ;  they  then 
fiill  them  two-thirds  full  of  foot,  and  put  them  into 
their  holes  on  the  top  of  the  oven. 

They  make  the  fire  gentle  at  firft,  ufing  the 
above-mentioned  dried  dung  for  the  fuel ;  they 
incrcafe  the  heat  gradually,  till  they  bring  it  to 
the  higheft  degree,  which  the  workmen  call  hell- 
fire,  and  continue  it  fo  for  three  days  and  three 
nights  together.  When  the  heat  is  come  to  its 
due  degree,  the  fmoke  fhews  itfelf,  with  a  fourifh 
fmell,  that  is  not  unpleafant ;  and  in  a  little  time, 
the  fait  flicks  to  the  glaffes,  and  covers  the  whole 
aperture.  The  fait  continues  fubliming  till  the 
above  time  is  expired  j  then  they  break  the  glafies, 

and 


MATERIA   MEDIC  A.      507 

and  take  out  the  fait,  juft  in  the  fame  form* 
and  of  the  fame  fubftancC)  as  it  is  fent  over  all 
Europe. 

At  each  falt-work  they  have  a  glafs  furnace^ 
to  melt  the  old  glalTes  and  make  new  ones* 


The  ingredients  for  the  fine  works,  which  are 
made  in  France  and  Germany,  of  Papief 
Machee,  as  fnuff- boxes,  heads  for  canes,  &c. 


5^    IchtyocolU  Ibij. 
Minii  rubri  ^ij. 
Lithargyrii  aurei  ^iij. 
Cerujfa  f  ifs. 
Ele3iri  ^viij. 
Terra  TripoIUana  Ibj . 


01.  Lib.  Ibiv. 
Terra  Umbra  ^iv. 
Vitriol,  alb.  f  iv. 
Colophonii  ^iij. 
Spirit.  Therebinth  Ibj, 


X    2 


MEDIC  a; 


380  MEDIC   a; 

M    E     D     I    C     A. 

Of  Difeafes,  and  their  Remedies, 


1.  Peftis.     The  Plague. 

2.  Febris  damiatse.     The  Fever  of  Damiata. 

3.  Synocha.    Fevers. 

4.  Tertiana.     The  Ague. 

5.  Cephalalgia.    The  Head  ach. 

6.  Colica.     The  Cholick. 

7.  Calculus.    The  Gravel. 

8.  Afthma.     Afthma. 

9.  Hyfteria.   Hyfterics. 

10.  Imaginatio.     Of  the  force  of  Imagination; 

11.  Taenia.     The  Tape  worm. 

12.  Ophthalmia.     Difeafes  of  the  eyes. 

13.  Siphilis.    The  Venereal  difeafe. 

14.  Herpes  Aleppica. 

15.  Hernia.     Ruptures, 

16.  Scerilitas.     Barrennefs. 

17.  Puerperia.     Of  Child-bearings 

18.  Excreta. 

I.  Peftis.    The  Plague. 

I  HAD  a  converfation  with  apraditioner  in  phy- 
fick  at  Smyrna,  and  was  folicitous  to  know 
whether  he  had  made  any  obfervations  on  this 
diftemper,  in  a  place  where  it  often  rages.  He 
anfwered  me,  that  neither  he  nor  his  collegues 
knew  any  thing  of  it,  as  they  are  clofely  confined, 
and  kept  from  all  communication  with  thole  af- 

flided 


MEDIC    A.  3St 

Aided  with  the  Plague.  For  no  Phyfician  can 
fuccour  thefe  wretches,  unlefs  he  will  fhut  himfelf 
out  from  all  company,  and  perhaps  afterwards 
be  condemned  to  fhui  himfelf  up  in  his  houfe  for 
forty  days,  and  perform  quarantine. 

He  had,  however,  an  opportunity  privately  to 
vifit  a  patient  afflifted  with  the  plague,  and  ob- 
ferved  that  his  eyes  watered  {lacrymatio  oculorum) 
and  his  tongue  was  covered  with  white  puftules. 

The  famous  Count  Bonnevall,  difcovered  a 
powder  againft  the  Plague,  which  had  a  furprifing 
effed: ;  and  he  proved,  that  fcarce  lo  of  loo  died, 
of  thofe  who  ufed  this  powder.  I  have  been  in- 
formed, that  there  is  a  French  furgeon,  now  in 
Conftantinople,  who  knows  how  to  prepare  this 
powder. 

2.  IB ebxh  maligna  Damtat a  Jingularis.     The  Fever 
of  Damiata. 

This  rages  during  the  winter,  but  more  in  the 
fpring,  with  a  quick  and  high  pulfe,  great  heat, 
violent  thirft,  dry  and  clammy  tongue,  inflamed 
eyes ;  it  ends  in  two  or  four  days,  with  a  red 
tumor  and  ftupor  on  one  fide,  but  particularly  the 
arm,  foot  and  leg  on  that  fide  fwelled,  are  very 
red  and  painful  i  before  this  crifis,  they  perceive 
fome  ferum  to  flu6tuate  within  the  fkull,  towards 
the  under  part  of  the  os  frontis.  This  crifis  is  not 
always  a  good  omen,  the  patient  often  dying  when 
it  comes  on.  If  the  patient  efcapes  death,  yet  the 
fwelling  of  the  limbs  and  ftupor  of  the  fide  often 
remain.  The  Arabians  call  it  Nysfham^  which 
£\gn\?its  Jiuxio  calida  (warm  fluxion j  to  diftinguifli 
it  from  the  apoplexy,  which  they  call  Nyfl-bred|a 
which  figm^cs  fiui'Jff  frigida  (cold  fluxion.) 

X  3  3.  Synocha, 


3S^  M   E   D   I   C   A, 

3,  Synocha.    Fevers. 

They  pound  fhell-fifh  {cochlea)  both  fhell  and 
flefh,  making  a  cataplafm  of  them,  which  they 
lay  on  the  fole  of  the  foot  •,  this  fervea  for  a  vefi- 
catory,  and  draws  a  blifter  on  the  folc.  It  is  the 
only  remedy  the  Greeks  at  Athens,  Salonica,  &c. 
ufe  in  violent  fevers  \  and  they  apply  it  with  fuc- 
cefs  in  the  height  of  the  difeafe.  This  they  ufe  in, 
all  fevers  as  a  domeftick;  medicine. 

4.  Tertiana.    Ague> 

A  fympathetick  cure  for  the  Ague,  which  the 
Greeks,  in  the  ifland  Morea,  prefcribe. 

When  the  patient  begins  to  fhake,  he  goes  and 
leans  againft  a  peach-tree,  until  the  fit  or  paroxyfm 
is  over  ;  by  this,  they  fay,  he  lofes  his  Ague,  but 
the  tree  dies  away.  This  was  told  me  by  a  per- 
fon  who  lived  a  long  time  on  Morea,  and  faw  it 
performed,  as  the  diforder  is  common  to  all  the 
inhabitants  of  this  Ifland. 

Take  an  egg,  roaft  it  in  aflies  till  it  becomes 
quite  hard,  fprinkle  it  all  over  with  pepper,  and 
eat  it  at  once.  A  Swedifh  merchant  in  Smyrna 
was  by  this  cured  of  an  Ague,  which  never  re- 
turned again. 

5.  Cephalalgia.    A  domeftick  cure,  ufed  by  the 
Arabians,  for  the  Head  ach. 

In  a  violent  Head  ach  they  fhave  the  head,  and 
with  a  knife  cut  feveral  holes  before  the  crown  of 
the  head  (futura  coronahs) ;  the  blood  which  runs 
out  they  ftroke  forwards  with  a  fharp  edged  piece 

of 


M   E    D    I    C    a:  383 

of  wood,  letting  it  then  run  as  long  as  they  think 
proper,  or  until  the  patient's  pain  is  mitigated. 
They  cut  the  holes  in  fuch  a  manner  as  not  to 
touch  any  vein,  but  only  in  the  fkin  or  flefliy 
part,  fo  far  refembling  a  fcarification. 

6.  Colics  Medicina.     A  Cure  for  the  Cholic. 

Take  the  fnuff  oi  a  candle,  and  German  foap^ 
mix  them  well,  and  make  pills.  This  in  the 
Levant  is  found  to  be  a  fure  remedy  againft  the 
Cholic. 

Make  pills  of  pitch  (bitumen  vulgare)  of  the 
lize  of  a  pea,  of  which,  three  or  four  are  to  be 
taken,  when  the  fit  or  paroxyfm  comes  on.  This 
is  faid  to  be  a  fovereign  remedy  againft  the  wind 
Cholic  in  Tartary,  which  I  learned  from  a 
Man  in  Smyrna,  who  had  long  lived  amongft 
the  Tartars. 

Colica  fiatulenta.     Gravidarum  Veffus^ 

Take  of  powdered  nutmeg,  two  grains;  fweet 
oil,  what  quantity  you  pleafe. 

Make  a  tent  of  cotten,  moiften  it  with  the  a- 
bove  mixture,  and  apply  it.  The  patient  mult 
fit  in  warm  water,  almoft  up  to  her  middle,  for 
an  hour,  before  the  PefTus  is  applied,  I  faw  a 
midwife  at  Cairo,  with  this  remedy,  cure  a  wo- 
man fix  months  gone  with  child,  of  a  Colica 
fiatulenta,  which  the  patient  had  erroneoully  taken 
for  a  fign  of  future  or  inflant  abortion ;  but  the 
midwife  prudently  judged  it  to  be  the  aforefaid 
diflemper. 

The  women  in  Egypt  frequently  ufe  PefTarla ; 

but  in  Europe  they  are  fcarcely  ever  ufed,  tho'  I 

X  4  doubt 


384  MEDIC    A. 

doubt  not  but  they  might  be  of  fervice.  A  people, 
however,  fo  much  given  to  lull  as  the  Egyptians, 
often  make  a  bad  ufe  of  them.  I  was  informed 
by  phyficiansj  apothecaries  and  priells,  to  whom 
they  confeffed  it  on  their  death-beds,  that  they 
often  ufe  them  to  help  conception  and  to  caufe  a- 
bordon  and  barrennefs.  But  I  was  not  informed 
of  what  fubftance,  and  in  what  manner  they  were 
made,  nor  did  I  think  it  worth  my  while  to  en- 
quire. 

A  cure  the  Arabians  have  for  their  Horfes,  when 
they  are  troubled  with  Gripings  (Colica  five. 
IHaca.) 

They  give  the  Gall  of  Bears  powdered  and 
mixed  with  coffee  to  the  Horfe  ;  this  is  a  moft 
powerful  remedy  againft  this  diftemper,  to  \A(hich 
the  Arabian  Horfes  are  fubjedl.  This  Gall  is  very 
fcarce  with  the  Arabians,  therefore  they  pay  dear 
for  it  when  they  can  get  it,  and  preferve  it  as  a 
valuable  treafure  to  ufe  it  on  this  occafion ;  one 
cannot  offer  an  Arab  a  more  welcome  prefent, 
than  a  bit  of  genuine  Bear's  Gall,  which  they  know 
very  well,  and  cannot  be  impofed  on  with  the 
Gall  of  other  animals. 

7.  Calculus.     The  Gravel. 

The  inhabitants  of  the  Eaft  ufe  the  dried  leaves 
of  almonds  infufed  in  water  to  cure  the  Gravel. 

8.  Afthma. 

Take  a  fea  gull,  chop  it  in  pieces,  boil  it  in 
water  to  make  a  ftrojig  broth,  and  drink  it  at 

once. 


M  E  D  I  c  a;  g^s 

This  domeftick  remedy  I  learned  in  Smyrna, 
where  it  is  faid  to  be  ufed  in  the  moft  defperate 
Afthmas. 

9.  Hyfteria.     Hyftericks. 

Fill  a  date  with  the  ^powder  of  majikb,  after 
taking  out  the  ftone  •,  clofe  it  again,  and  lay  it  on 
coals  to  roaft.  The  patient  is  to  place  herfelf 
over  the  coals,  and  draw  the  fmoak  of  it,  which 
is  of  an  agreeable  fmell,  up  her  nofe;  when  the 
date  leaves  off  fmoking,  or  when  the  ma/itch  is 
melted  and  mixed  with  the  juice  of  the  date,  the 
patient  eats  it.  This  is  to  be  done  under  the 
paroxyfm,  which  I  am  told  will  certainly  be  ob- 
viated. 

Another  :  Lay  the  eggs  of  the  fepia  oflopodia 
the  cuttle  fifh  with  eight  claws  on  coals,  and  draw 
the  fmoke  of  it  up  your  mouth  and  nofe.  Both 
thefe  methods  are  ufed  in  the  Levant. 

10.  Imaginationis  Jiratagema, 

A  MAN  afflidled  with  the  hypochondriac  difeafe, 
and  of  a  very  difturbed  mind,  continually  com* 
plained  of  fomething  in  his  throat  which  almolt 
luffocated  him.  1  endeavoured  to  cure  him  by 
llratagem.  I  ordered  a  hen  to  be  killed,  and  an 
egg  to  be  taken  our ;  I  then  prefcribed  for  the 
Padent  a  light  vomit,  perfuading  him  that  it 
would  bring  up  v/hat  troubled  him.  While  he 
was  vomiting,  I  ordered  the  egg  to  be  privately 
conveyed  into  the  pot,  and  when  the  vomit  had 
ceafed  operating,  I  fhewed  him  the  egg  amongft 
what  he  had  brought  up  j  he  was  overjoyed,  de- 
claring 


/ 

I 


3S6  MEDIC    A. 

daring  he  felt  it  no  more,  nor  did  he  after warda 
complain  of  it. 

II.  Taenia.    The  Tape-worm. 

The  Tape-worm,  which  has  of  late  years  en- 
gaged the  attention  of  many  great  Phyficians,  is  a 
plague,  from  which  the  inhabitants  of  Egypt  are 
not  exempted,  and  which,  in  this  country,  affords 
opportunities  enough  for  a  Phyfician  to  enquire 
into  its  nature,  of  which  we  know  very  little. 
Mr.  Foumace,  furgeon  to  the  French  nation,  at 
Cairo,  was  the  firlV  who  told  me  this  plague  was 
very  common  in  Egypt,  and  fhewed  me  three 
pieces  of  a  1  ape- worm,  which  he  had,  at  various 
times,  forced  out  of  a  woman  :  one  of  them  was 
forty,  the  other  about  fifteen,  and  the  third  ten 

/  French  pique  ;    it  was  near  half  an  inch  broad. 

^  After  I  had  got  this  information,  I  ufed  my  bcft 

endeavours  to  be  better  informed,  and  to  co]le(5k 
what  obfervations  I  could  get  from  him,  and  every 
body  elfe  who  pradlifed  phyfic  here,  relative  to  a 
fubjedl  of  fo  much  importance.  I  here  commu- 
cate  them  as  they  were  related  to  me.  The  Tape- 
worm is  fo  common,  that  Mr.  Foumace,  who  has 
pradifed  phyfick  here  for  fcveral  years,  believes 
two -thirds  of  the  inhabitants  of  Cairo  to  be  trou- 
bled with  them.  The  Jews,  and  the  common 
people  of  Egypt,  are  moft  affiided  with  this  dif- 
order  ;  many  of  the  Coptites  are  alfo  tormented 
with  them,  but  not  many  of  the  Turks.  I  did 
not  fail  afking  the  Fraftitioners  of  Cairo,  why  the 
people  in  this  country  are  more  tormented  with 
them  than  in  other  places,  and  why  fome  forts  of 
the  people  here,  are  more  fubjedt  to  them  than 
others  ?    But  I  got  no  fatisfadtory  ^nfwers.    They 

all 


M   E   D   I   C   A.  387 

all  agreed  that  the  diet  was  the  principal  caufe,  but 
this  was  nothing  new  to  me  j  however,  I  am  of 
opinion,  that  the  miferable  food  of  the  poor  peo- 
ple, and  particularly  the  nourifliment  they  take 
great  part  of  the  year  from  melons,  cucumbers, 
and  all  other  kinds  of  ground  fruit,  deferve  fome 
attention.  One  told  me,  that  the  Jews  are  troub- 
led with  worms,  becaufe  they  eat  fo  many  fweet 
things ;  and  the  women  in  particular,  eat  more 
fweet  meets,  confedions,  pruins,  &c.  than  other 
food.  It  is  the  general  opinion,  that  fweet  things 
riourifh  at  lead,  if  not  occafion,  worms  in  children. 
The  Turks  live  here  as  well  as  in  other  places  on 
good  and  well  drefled  victuals.  Rice  and  flefh  ar^ 
their  chief  food.  They  likewife  eat  much  fifli, 
but  the  poor  cannot  buy  them.  The  fifli  of  the 
Nile  do  not  perhaps  contribute  towards  breeding 
worms,  though  we  have  reafon  to  believe,  that 
the  fifli  of  other  rivers  do,  I  made  diligent  en- 
quiry with  refpedl  to  the  Signs,  by  which  we  may 
judge,  whether  anyone  has  the  Tape-worm  or  not  j 
and  was  informed,  that  the  furcfl  method  is  to  ex- 
amine the  ftomach  and  eyes,  viz.  when  a  blue 
ring  is  feen  under  the  eyes,  and  when  the  ftomach 
Iwells  round  the  navel ;  but  I  was  told  there  is  ne-f 
ver  occafion  to  fearch  for  more  than  one  fign,  and 
this  is  the  fureft,  viz.  the  Vermes  cucurbitini 
(Gourd  worms.)  As  foon  as  he  knew  that  the  pa- 
tient voided  Gourd-worms,  he  never  hefitated  to 
prefcribe  medicines  againft  the  Tape-worm,  and 
he  never  remembered  to  have  been  difappoinred 
in  his  conjedlures.  It  is  very  eafy  to  know  hers 
whether  a  patient  has  Gourd- worms,  five  perfons 
out  of  ten,  and  perhaps  more,  void  them  when 
they  go  to  ftool,  fome  in  confiderable  numbers, 
and  almoft  all  without  attending  to  it,  except  when 

thev 


3S8  MEDIC    A, 

they  afk  the  advice  of  a  Phyfician,  upon  the  vcr- 
mins  tormenting  them,  and  he  enquires  whether 
they  perceived  them.     They  have  no  medicine  in 
Egypt  againfl  worms ;  nor  do  they  ever  require  a 
Phyfician  to  prefcribe  any  thing  for  them.     Even 
they  who  know  they  harbour  them,  and  are  tor- 
mented with  all  the  inconveniences  they  are  wont 
to  caufe,  require  only  a  remedy  for  the  fymptoms, 
^'  S'  g''Jp^s,  head-ach,  vomitings,  but  never  fay 
any  thing  of  the  caufe,  which  is  generally  to  be  at- 
tributed to  worms.     They  cannot   conceive  that 
the   infignificant   Gourd  worms,  which  they  void 
with  fo  much  eafe,  can  occafion  a  difeafe,  and  they 
never  dream  of  the  true  caufe,  I  mean  the  Tape- 
worm i  for  which  reafon  they  are  greatly  terrified 
when  a  Phyfician  expels  one  from  them.     A  Phy- 
fician   muft  therefore  know    in   what  manner   to 
prefcribe  againfl  the  real  caufe,  and  not  attend  to 
what  the  patient  fays  of  his  fymptoms,  I  never  was 
acquainted  with  more  than  one  remedy  prefcribed 
for  the  worms,  by  thofe  who  pradifed  phyfic  in 
Cairo  v/ith  judgment  and  applaufe,  but  this  always 
fucceeded  fo  well,  that  they  had  no  occafion  to 
fearch  for  another.     This  is  Petroleum  given  in- 
wardly.    Mr.  Des  Barats,  M.  D.  of  the  Faculty  of 
Paris,  and  Phyfician  to  the  Conful  at  Cairo,  com- 
municated this  remedy  to  me.     Both  he,  and  the 
aforefaid  Mr.   Foumace,  have  feen  a  confiderable 
number   in  Cairo  cured  by  Petroleum,   and   the 
worm  Mr.  Foumace  Ihewed  me,   was  expelled  by 
it :  they   give   it  for  three  days  fucceflively,  for 
which  purpofe  they  chufe  the  three  laft  days  of 
the  moon's  laft  quarter.     When  they  have  given  it 
for  three  days,  they  try  whether  they  can   expel 
any  of  the  worm  which  they  fuppofe  to  be  killed ; 
if  this  does  not  fucceed,  they  wait  till  the  next  de- 

creafe 


M   E  t)    I    C    A.  $^ 

trcafe  of  the  moon,  and  repeat  the  fame  courfe> 
Cairo,  July  i,  1751. 

Ophthalmia  ^gyptiorum.    Difeafes  of  the  Eyes. 

No  Difeafes  are  more  common  in  ^gypt  than 
thofe  that  afFed;  the  Eyes,  efpecially  in  Cairo,  where 
the  greatell  part  of  the  inhabitants  are   afflifted 
with  (Ophthalmia  anrdTforothalmia)  fore  and  watry 
Eyes.     More  than  one  caufe  may  be  given  for  this 
endemic  dilbrdcr.     The  exceflive  heat   added  to 
the  incredible  quantity  of  fine  duft,    which  flies 
about  the  air  of  this  dry  country,  is  fufficient  to 
make  the  direafes  of  the  Eye  more  frequent  ia 
Egypt,    than  any  where    elfe,     and    perhaps  in 
fome  places  this  alone  may  be  the  caufe.     But  I 
am  fully  perfuaded,  that  it  is  not  the  only  thing 
that  occafions  this  diforder  in  the  city  of  Cairo.     I 
have  there  obferved  one  more  remarkable.     The 
inhabitants,  efpecially  thofe  that  live  near  the  ca- 
nal,  have  under  their  houfes  a  fink  or  deep  pit, 
that  anfwers  for  a  necefTary-houfe,   for  the  recep- 
tion of  all  kinds  of  filth  and  excrements.     From 
this  fink  there  is  a  drain  that  leads  into  the  canal 
which  runs  through  the  city,  and  is  never  opened 
but,  in  order  to  clear  ic  our,  once  a  year,  and  that 
at  the  time  when  the  heat  is  moll  violent,  and  the 
canal  has  fcarcely  any  thing  in  it  but  the  foetid 
mire  left  by  the  Nile  :    and  to  this  filth  and  or- 
dure I  afcribe  the  caufe  of  fore  Eyes  to  the  People 
in  Cairo,  for  whilft  thefe  putrid  fubftances  are  fhut 
up  in  the  pit  they  infenfibly  throw  ofi^  fome  noxi- 
ous particles,  w  hich  become  more  perceptible  when 
they  are  emitted  into  the  canal,  and  unite  their  poi- 
fon  with  the  circumambient  air.     To  confirm  my 
opinion,  I  needonly  ufethe  argument,  which  mduced 

the 


59&  MEDIC   A; 

the  learned  Ramazzin  to  write  his  treatlfe  6t 
Morbis  Artificum,  to  which  I  refer  the  reader.  . 
.  I  HAVE  feen  one  example  of  this,  which  was 
more  remarkable  than  all  the  others  j  a  European 
forty  years  of  age  had  been  in  Cairo  three  years^ 
and  was  every  year  attacked  with  fore  and  inflam- 
ed Eyes,  juft  at  the  time  when  the  llench  was 
greateft  in  the  canal,  on  the  fide  of  which  he  lived. 
He  attributed  his  Difeafe  to  his  fituation,  as  it  went 
away  as  foon  as  the  caufe  was  removed,  namely^ 
when  the  water  at  the  rifing  of  the  Nile  flowed  ia- 
to  the  canal.     Cairo,  June  27  1750. 

13,  Siphilis.  An  example  of  venereal  Ulcersj  being 
cured  in  Egypt  with  ^ar-water, 

A  MAN  forty  years  of  age  had  venereal  Ulcers  on 
his  forehead,  nofe,  chin,  and  in  his  throat,  which 
had  occafioned  a  hoarfencfs,  &c.  An  Englifli 
Nobleman,  who  was  travelling  in  Egypt,  faw 
this  wretch,  and  immediately  perceived  the  caufe 
of  his  condition.  He  knew  that  Tar-water  had 
been  ufed  with  fuccefs  in  England  in  fuch  cafes, 
and  therefore  defired  the  Englifli  Conful,  Mr. 
Barton,  to  try  whether  he  could  by  the  fame 
means  cure  him  of  his  Difliemper.  He  procured 
Swedifli  Tar,  from  a  Swedifli  Ship  at  Alexan- 
dria, prepared  Tar-watery  and  ordered  the  pa- 
tient to  drink  about  a  pint  and  a  half  a  day.  In  a 
month  the  fwellings  in  his  throat  began  to  abate, 
and  he  recovered  his  voice.  By  degrees  the  Ul* 
cers  in  his  face  were  cured,  and  when  I  faw  him 
him,  which  was  three  months  after  he  had  begun  to 
drink  Tar-water,  there  only  remained  an  Ulcer  on 
his  nofe,  and  this  was  alfo  beginning  to  mend. 

Cairo,  July  6th,  1750. 

14.  Herpes 


M   E  D   1   C   A, 


14.  Herpes  Aleppina, 


39 1 


(i.)  Children  and  women  never  efcape  this 
Difeafe.  (2.)  Very  few  men,  who  come  from  other 
parts  to  Aleppo,  efcape  it;  the  inhabitants  fay 
there  is  fcarcely  one  in  a  thoufand.  (3.)  If  any 
efcape  it,  they  are  thofe  who  have  black  hair  (of 
a  melancholy  temper,)  according  to  the  obfcrva* 
lions  made  by  the  inhabitants.  (4.)  It  commonly 
lafts  for  fix  months,  but  there  are  examples  of  its 
continuing  a  year  and  more.  (5.)  It  often  afFeds 
the  cheeks  of  the  Ladies,  and  then  does  more  da- 
mage by  going  off,  than  by  Haying,  for  it  deftroys 
their  beauty  by  leaving  a  fear.  (6)  It  is  very  in- 
conftant  with  regard  to  the  place  it  occupies  in 
men,  fometimes  affecting  the  cheeks,  fhoulders, 
nofe,  and  even  the  glans  penis.  (7.)  Nobody 
could  yet  difcover  the  caufe  of  this  Difeafe  •,  the  in- 
habitants commonly  afcribe  it  to  the  water.  (8.) 
The  inhabitants  apply  no  medicines  for  it,  but 
leave  it  to  nature. 

Mr.  Justi,  fecretary  to  the  Swedifli  Conful, 
told  me,  that  an  Armenian  fervant  in  the  Swedifti 
Fadory  had  the  Aleppo  Mark.  I  was  defirous  of 
being  informed  by  the  fervant  of  the  circumftances 
of  this  Difeafe,  he  related  to  me  what  follows :  All 
who  are  either  born  at  Aleppo,  or  come  thither 
from  other  places,  are  attacked  with  a  Difeafe, 
which  has  the  following  fymptoms  and  effects; 
fome  part  of  the  body,  fometimes  feveral,  often 
ten  or  tv/elve,  is  affeded  with  a  fore  or  rather  efflo- 
refcence,  which  is  red,  fomewhat  elevated,  without 
heat  or  pain,  and  the  patient  fcarcely  knows 
that  he  has  it.  There  appear  neither  Veftcks  nor 
pimples.  This  continues  a  longer  or  a  fhorter  time, 

'and 


$gt  M  E  t)  I  C  A: 

and  terminates  with  a  fcab  (efchara),  without  hav- 
ing fuppurated.  When  this  falls  off,  it  leaves  an 
ugly  and  deep  fear,  which  the  people  in  the  Le- 
vant call  the  Aleppo  Mark ;  all  who  have  dwelt  in 
the  city  bear  it,  and  perceive  alfo  more  inconve- 
nience after  the  Difeafe,  than  while  it  is  on  them, 
efpecially  thofe  who  bear  the  marks  of  it  in  the 
face.  But  there  are  fome  who  bear  a  much  more 
unfortunate  mark  of  this  Difeafe,  viz.  thofe  who 
become  blind,  when  the  fore  ajffedls  the  eyes.  This 
fervant  had  three  fears,  one  on  each  cheek,  pretty 
deep,  of  an  irregular  figure,  and  refembling  much 
the  fears  which  remain  after  burnt  fores.  They 
who  have  once  got  over  the  Difeafe,  are  never  af- 
ter affeded  with  it,  and  they  are  feldom  in  the 
town  many  days  before  it  attacks  them.  The  in- 
habitants of  the  town  and  travellers  afcribe  the 
caufe  to  the  water  ;  I  afked  the  fervant,  whether 
he  ever  perceived  any  fingu'ar  qualities  in  the  wa- 
ter which  is  ufed  at  Aleppo,  for  meat  and  drink  ? 
but  he  knew  of  nothing,  except  that  the  water  is 
brought  into  the  town  by  aqueducts  from  a  little 
inland  river,  and  that  it  neither  taftes  nor  fmella 
different  from  other  water,  only  a  little  warm. 
Smyrna,  December  30,  1749. 

15.   Hernia.    Ruptures. 

I  HAVE  been  told  by  fome  perfons  in  Syria, 
who  had  undergone  the  cauterium  fcroti  in  Rup- 
tures themfelves,  and  been  perfedly  cured. 

16.    Sterilitas.    Barrennefs. 

The  man  and  woman  are  tb  drink  a  tea  cup 
full  of  clove  water  before  they  go  to  bed.    This 

is 


MEDIC    A.  ^93 

is  a  fovereign  remedy  in  Egypt  in  thefe  cafes,  and 
1  have  been  told,  that  women,  who  had  been  barren 
for  many  years,  have  conceived,  by  iifing  this 
fimple  medicine.  A  midwife,  who  told  me  this, 
faid,  that  fhe  had  often  prefcribed  it  with  fuccefs. 
Cairo,  December  26th,    1756. 

17.    Puerperia* 

I  THIS  day  procured  the  following  informations^ 
concerning  the  birth  of  children,  amongft  the  in- 
habitants of  the  Eaft.  (i.)  There  are  both  Tur- 
kilh  and  Greek  midwifes  here,  who  have  learned 
their  art  by  experience,  without  being  taught  by 
any  body.   (2.)  The  women  here  have  good  times, 
and    we     feldom     hear    of  difficult   labours     in 
child-birth,  much  lefs  of  women  dying  in  labour, 
efpecially   amongft  the    Turks.     (3.)  When  the 
child  is  born,  they  cut  the  ftring  of  the  navel,  as 
with  us,  and  apply  cauterium  aftuale,  or  a  red  hoc 
iron  to  it.     (4..)  The  head  of  the  child  is  fprink- 
led  over  with  the  powder  of  gallnuts  and  nutmeg 
mixed  together  •,  this  forms  a  cruft  on  the  head, 
which   they  leave  on  till  it  falls  off  itfelf ;  this 
ufually  happens  within  ten  or  twelve  days.    (^.) 
The  mother  or  nurfe  is  very  fohcitous  to  bend  the 
arms  and  legs  of  the  child.     They  bend,  for  ex- 
ample, the  left  leg  backwards  over  the  loins,  and 
take  the  right  arm  and  lay  it  over  the  back,  fo  as 
to  meet  the  foot,  and  in  the  fame  manner  the  other 
leg  and  arm.     To  facilitate  this,  they  anoint  the 
joints  with  Iweet  oil :  I  have  been  alTured  by  fome 
women,  that   this  is  the  beft  remedy  to  lilence 
children  when  they  cry,  and  that  the  child  by  a 
natural  inftinft  requires  this  to  be  done  to  it.    May 
not  this  be  the  reafon,  why  the  eaftern  people  are 
fo  much  more  adive  than  the  Europeans  ?    The 
Y  Greeks 


594  M    E    D    I    C    A. 

Greeks  chrlfiien  their  children  immediately  after 
their  birth,  or  within  a  few  days  at  leaft,  dipping 
them  in  warm  water,  and  in  this  refpedl  they  are 
much  wifer  than  their  brethren  the  Ruffians,  who 
dip  them  into  rivers  in  the  coldeft  winter.  The 
Jews  circumciie  their  children  on  the  8th  day, 
■which  feems  to  be  a  difficult  and  dangerous  opera- 
tion at  that  age.  But  the  Turks  are  wifer,  for  they 
defer  this  great  ceremony  in  their  religion,  until 
their  fons  have  attained  the  8th  year  of  their  age. 

A  Turk  in  Egypt  had  by  feveral  wives  forty 
children,  of  which  none  lived.  (2.)  A  Bey,  who 
was  murdered  at  Cairo  about  fifteen  years  ago,  had 
at  his  death  feventy  feven  women  in  his  Haram, 
all  v/ith  child.  (3.)  Children  got  in  Egypt  by  fo- 
reign parents  feldom  live,  v/hether  they  come  of 
Franks  or  Levantines  j  we  therefore  fee  few  Tur- 
kiffi  children,  tho'  the  militia  or  army  of  Egypt 
confifts  of  Turks  who  take  women  flaves  from 
Georgia,  Circaffia,  Ruffia,  and  other  places.  The 
reafon  of  it  may  in  great  meafure  be  attributed  to 
the  curfed  cuftom  of  deftroying  the  foetus,  as  foon 
as  they  perceive  they  have  conceived,  in  order  to 
preferve  the  love  of  their  hufbands,  and  exclude 
their  rivals.  (4.)  However,  a  Turk  in  Cairo  had 
by  eight  wives,  within  ten  years,  eighty  children, 
all  living,  of  which  I  knew  feveral. 

18.  In  Damiata,  the  Neceflary-houfe  is  in  the 
Kitchen,  which  is  very  fingular.  We  ffiall  fcarce- 
ly  find  fuch  a  difgreeable  cuftom  in  any  place.  In 
the  other  towns,  of  Egypt,  this  place  is  always  in 
the  dwelling-houfe,  but  not  in  the  room  where  the 
viduals  are  drefled. 

COM- 


COMMERCE.  595 


COMMERCE. 


1.  The  Riches  of  Egypt. 

2.  The  Trade. 

3.  The  Trade  of  the  French. 

4.  The  Trade  of  Aleppo. 

5.  The  Trade  of  Damiata. 

6.  The  Trade  of  Perfia. 

7.  The  Weights  of  Egypt. 

8.  The  Drefs  or  Cloathing  of  the  Turks. 

9.  Cotton. 
ID.  Coffee. 

11.  Incenfe. 

12.  To  give  Wine  an  agreeable  Flavour. 


I.  The  Riches  of  Egypt. 

THEY  aflure  me,  that  Egypt  pays  1000 
purfes  a  day  to  the  Revenue,  yet  but  a  fmall 
part  of  this  reaches  the  Sultan.  The  grcateft  part 
of  it  goes  to  the  Beys  in  Cairo,  who  govern  the 
country,,  and  4000  men  only  can  be  draughted 
from  hence  in  time  of  war.  Abdulha  BaHiaw, 
was  by  the  Sultan  fent  to  Egypt  as  Bafhaw  dur- 
ing my  ftay  at  Cairo ;  at  his  arrival  he  defired  the 
Government  to  pay  200,000  ducats  into  his  privy 
purfe,  inftead  of  the  moneys  he  had  a  right  to 
levy  hereafter  ;  thefe  were  without  further  delibe- 
ration given  him  within  a  few  hours.  He  like- 
wife  defired  Ibraim  Kiaja  to  give  him  5000  du- 
cats, which  was  alfo  complied  with  :  thefe  fums, 
Y  2  laid 


^g6        COMMERCE. 

laid  on  one  table,  (hew  that  Egypt  does  not  wanC 
for  money.  Ibrahim  Kiaja^  who  in  my  time  was 
Ufurper  of  Egypt,  gave  the  prefent  Bafliaw,  fom6 
days  after  his  arrival,  a  grand  entertainment,  at 
which  he  and  his  brother  Rodoau  Kiaja,  who 
was  the  other  Ufurper,  waited  at  table.  After 
dinner,  he  gave  the  Bafhaw  prefents  to  the  a- 
mount  of  30,000  ducats,  which  confided  of 
horfes  with  and  without  furniture,  fluffs  from  In- 
dia, diamonds  and  coined  gold.  An  Ufurper, 
poffefTed  of  the  chief  power  over  Egypt,  might 
make  fuch  a  prefent  without  lofing  by  it,  but  he 
who  received  it,  viz.  the  Bafliaw,  muft  certainly 
have  been  much  grieved  to  find  himfelf  loaded 
with  prefents  from  a  perfon,  whofe  feigned  re- 
fpeft  was  intended  to  (hew  him  his  power.  They 
are  not  the  mofl  agreeable  prefents,  which  we  are 
obliged,  for  certain  reafons  of  ftate,  to  receive 
from  thofe  we  would  rather  wi(h  to  fee  in  a  con- 
dition, in  which  it  would  be  out  of  their  power  to 
make  them. 

2.    Of  Gain  in  Trade. 

If  we  can  procure  a  commodity  from  the  firft 
hand,  and  fell  it  ourfelves  without  a  rival  for  con- 
fumption,  we  certainly  may  gain  as  much  as  we 
pleafe.  The  largeft  fum  is  given  to  the  planter 
or  manufadurer,  the  merchant  gains  the  profit, 
and  the  purchafer  fuffers  the  lofs.  This  has  been 
the  foundation  of  riches  in  England  and  Hol- 
land. The  French  have  endeavoured  to  follow 
their  example  in  Egypt,  but  they  have  always 
been  obliged  to  leave  a  fhare  of  the  profit  to  their 
teachers.  A  Frenchman  buys  coffee  at  Mecca 
from  the  firft  hand,  he  carries  it  to  Marfeilles, 

and 


COMMERCE.  397 

and  there  fells  it  to  the  Dutch,  Genoefe  and  Swifs, 
by  which  he  gains  a  httle.  Thefe  laft  fell  it  to 
the  Germans,  Swedes,  Ruflians,  &c.  and  gain  a 
little;  the  Frenchman  might  likewife  have  had 
this  profit,  if  he  had  himfelf  carried  it  to  thofe 
places  where  the  Dutch,  &c.  fell  it. 

3.  The  French  in  Cairo,  where  they  have 
eight  merchants  houfes,  fell  annually  to  the  Turks 
in  Egypt  5  or  600  bales  of  cloth,  each  bale  at 
500  ducats  Sermahabub.  They  diligently  remark 
what  colour  the  people  like  bell,  of  this  they  fend 
a  fample  to  France,  and  order  cloth  fulcable  to  the 
tafte  of  the  people.  The  cloth  which  the  French 
export  to  the  Levant,  is  not  of  the  fame  kind  with 
that  they  manufadure  for  themfelves,  the  laft  be- 
ing ftrong,  thick,  clofe  and  good,  but  that  which 
they  export  to  the  Levant  though  very  fine,  yet 
it  is  thin,  and  foon  wears  out.  They  fell  greateft 
part  of  it  at  the  Beiram  of  the  Turks,  for  then 
every  one  who  can  afford  it  muft  have  a  new  fuit 
of  cloaths.  The  Grandees  and  rich  people  in  E- 
gypt  at  that  time  cloth  their  fervants,  which  are 
often  5  or  600  in  number,  and  this  requires  much 
cloth.  The  Englilh,  who  have  only  one  houfe 
here,  have  but  a  fmall  fliare  of  this  profit,  as  their 
cloths  are  much  better,  and  confequently  dearer, 
but  the  inhabitants  prefer  that  which  is  cheapeft 
and  makes  a  fine  appearance,  and  care  not  much 
about  the  goodnefs,  provided  it  lafts  one  year. 
The  French  merchants  received  this  day  goods 
from  France  by  way  of  Alexandria,  to  the  value 
of  600,000  livres ;  thefe  came  in  a  fhip  from  Mar- 
feilles,  which  was  the  richeft  that  had  come  to 
Egypt  in  the  memory  of  man ;  it  had  befides  on 
board  a  quantity  of  goods  for  the  French  mer- 
chants in  Alexandria  and  Rofette.  The  lading 
y  2  confiri,ed 


SgS         COMMERCE. 

,  confilted  only  of  cloaths  and  cochineal.     Cairo, 
June  19th,   1750. 

4.  In  Aleppo,  .which  is  the  prettieft:  town  in  the 
Turkifh  empire,  there  are  nine  French  and  eight 
Englilli  houfes.  There  are  more  Engliili  here, 
than  in  any  other  place  in  the  Levant ;  they  trade 
to  Perfia  and  India.  When  Perfia  is  at  peace,  they 
can  gain  300  per  cent,  on  their  broad  cloaths. 
For  thefe  the  market  is  as  good  in  Perfia,  as  it  is 
for  the  French  in  Turkey ;  becaufe  the  country  is 
colder,  and  requires  a  thicker  manufadture  than 
the  thin  and  wretched  French  cloths ;  it  depends 
alfo  on  the  different  fentiments  of  the  two  nations. 
The  Turks  admire  a  brilliant  colour  and  fplen- 
did  appearance  •,  the  Perfians  are  a  wifer  peo- 
ple and  know  the  value  of  goods.  The  Englifh, 
difpofe  of  8  or  900  bales  of  cloth  every  year  at 
Aleppo,  and  the  French  the  fame  quantity.  They 
get  in  return  Silk,  Drugs  and  Tefiic.  The  filk 
comes  from  Perfia,  and  is  much  valued  in  Eng- 
land. 

5.   The  Trade  of  Damiata. 

They  export  large  quantities  of  Flax  every  year 
to  Venice,  liCghorn,  and  fome  to  Marfeilles.  They 
make  linen  here,  and  fell  it  to  great  advantage,  to 
France  and  Italy  for  lining,  and  where  courfe 
linen  is  required  •,  but  mofc  of  it  goes  to  Syria, 
Greece,  Conftantinople,  and  other  places  in  Tur- 
key J  to  each  of  thefe  are  every  year  exported  100 
bales,  each  bale  fix  feet  in  length,  and  four  in 
breadth  and  height,  being  valued  from  3  to  500 
piafter.  All  Egyptian  linen  is  coarfe,  and  much  of 
the  fame  finenefs  with  the  ten  or  twelve-penny  Irifh 
linen,  but  with  this  difference,  that  the  Egyptian 

is 


COMMERCE.  399 

is  thin,  and  the  Irifli  clofe,  and  in  this  refpe6l,  1 
imagine  the  former  to  be  ftronger  than  the  latter, 
which  is  confirmed  by  experience,  and  allowed  by 
the  rules  of  mechanics.  The  antients  talk  much 
of  the  linen  of  Egypt,  and  many  of  our  learned 
men  imagine  it  was  fo  fine  and  precious,  that 
we  have  even  lofc  the  art,  and  cannot  make  it  fo 
good.  They  have  been  induced  to  think  fo,  by 
the  commendations  the  Greeks  lavilTied  on  the  E- 
gyptian  linens.  They  had  good  reafon  for  doing 
it,  for  they  had  no  flax  themfelves,  and  were  unac- 
quainted with  the  art  of  weaving.  But  were  we  to 
compare  a  piece  of  Holland  hnen  with  the  linen 
in  which  the  Mumies  were  laid,  and  which  is  of 
the  oMeft  and  befl  manufafture  in  Egypt,  we 
ihould  find  that  the  fine  linen  of  Egypt  is  very 
coarfe  in  comparifon  to  what  is  now  made.  The  E- 
gyptian  linen  was  fine  and  fought  after  by  kings 
and  princes,  when  Egypt  was  the  only  country 
that  cultivated  Flax,  and  knew  to  ufe  it. 

Hides  and  Rice  are  the  other  confiderable  com- 
modities which  Damiata  affbrds.  Through  this 
town  goes  all  the  filk  which  is  ufed  in  Egypt,  it  is 
brought  from  Syria  and  Cyprus  in  confiderable 
quantities. 

6.  The  Perfian  trade  has,  fince  the  reign  of 
Thomas  Kouly  Kan,  being  utterly  ruined.  The 
Englifh  and  Dutch  who  were  at  Ifpahan  had  e- 
nough  to  do  to  fave  their  lives,  and  were  obliged 
to  leave  their  goods  and  houfes  to  be  plundered, 
when  the  tow  n  was  feveral  times  facked  by  the 
troops  of  the  competitors  for  the  crown.  There 
came  formerly  from  Perfia  to  Aleppo  looo  bales 
of  the  beft  filk,  which  the  Franks  fent  to  Europe, 
who  in  return  fent  to  Perfia  a  quantity  of  cloth  and 
other  European  goods.  This  trade  is  at  prefent  en- 
y  4  tirely 


'400         COMMERCE. 

tirely  at  a  ftand.  There  came  alfo  formerly  to 
Smyrna  feveral  rich  Caravans  from  Perfia,  which 
are  not  to  be  feen  now,'nor  do  they  continue  to  trade 
to  Perfia,  by  way  of  Baflbra  ;  and  all  this,  becaufe 
this  kingdom,  formerly  one  of  the  moft  powerful 
in  the  Eaft,  is  now  entirely  ruined,  partly  by  the 
tyranny  of  Thomas  Kouly  Kan,  and  partly  by  the 
fadions  which  after  his  death  contended  for  the 
Crown. 

7.    The  Weights  of  Egypt, 

A  Cantar  of  Cairo^  one  of  the  greateft  Weights 
m  Egypt,  commonly  contains  105  Rotieli,  which 
make  38  Turkifh  Oke,  They  have  a  fingular 
cuftom  at  Cairo,  viz.  each  commodity  is  fold  by 
its  own  weight,  different  from  all  others,  fo  that 
a  Cantar  of  coffee  is  different  from  a  Cantar  of 
myrrh  or  incenfe.  There  is  alfo  for  every  com- 
modity a  different  manner  of  counting  money  3 
a  piafter  paid  for  incenfe  contains  fixty  medins, 
when  paid  for  another  commodity  it  contains  per- 
haps forty,  &c, 

8.  Cloaths. 

The  Turks,  even  the  pooreft  of  them,  muft 
ftbfolutely,  have  new  Cloaths  at  their  Beiram^  which 
fucceeds  the  Ramazan.  By  this  the  Europeans, 
but  efpecially  the  French,  who  deal  in  Cioathsj 
become  confiderable  gainers.  It  is  very  expen- 
five  to  thofe  who  hold  great  offices,  and  confe- 
fequently  keep  a  number  of  flaves  and  fervants ; 
for  thefe  they  muft  alfo  cloath  at  this  time.  They 
reckon  that  a  Grandee  in  Cairo  can't  cloath  his 
fervants  for  kfs  than  20,000  ducats  at  the  Beiram. 

9.  CqT' 


COMMERCE.  40t 

9.  Cotton  is  the  chief  produce  of  Cyprus. 
This  is  the  beft  and  mofl  valuable  of  any  in  the 
Levant,  and  much  in  requeft  amongft  the  French 
and  Venetians.  Cyprus  produced  formerly  6000 
Cantars  of  Cotton,  which  was  fold  in  the  year 
1 75 1,  at  170  piafters  a  Cantar;  at  other  times  it 
commonly  fells  at  150  piafters  a  Cantar-,  but  the 
fcarcity  which  was  for  feveral  years  together  oc- 
cafioned  by  great  droughts  and  locufts,  and  add 
to  this  the  want  of  people,  owing  to  the  tyranny 
of  the  Turks,  have  made  this  and  other  produds 
of  Cyprus  very  dear  and  fcarce. 

10.   Coffee. 

There  are  yearly  brought  36,000  bales  of 
Coffee  from  Mocka  to  Egypt,  each  bale  felling 
for  fixty  piafters.  A  Cantar  of  Coffee  is  fold  at 
Cairo  for  eighteen  Mahbub,  each  Mahbub  con- 
fifts  of  1 10  Medins. 

11.  Incenfe  (L'Encens,    Incenfo) 

Sells  according  to  its  goodnefs,  from  nine  to 
twenty-three  piafters,  at  fixty  medins  each,  per 
Cantar,  confifting  of  no  rottoli. 

12.  A  Method  of  giving  Wine  a  fine  Flavour; 

Pluck  the  flowers  of  the  vine,  when  they  arc 
juft  come  forth  and  in  full  bloffom,  dry  them  in 
the  fhade,  but  by  no  means  in  the  fun  or  a  ftrong 
heat ;  powder  and  preferve  them.  Take  what 
quantity  you  pleafe  of  this  powder,  tye  it  up  in 
linen,  and  hang  it  in  the  cafk,  when  the  new 
Wine  begins  to  ferment.  Nothing  is  more  natu- 
ral, 


402         COMMERCE. 

ral,  and  nothing  more  efScacious  in  giving  Wine 
a  high  flavour,  than  this  pow^der.  The  quintef-" 
fence  of  the  virtues  of  a  plant  lies  in  the  flowers. 
By  drying  them  flowly,  the  evaporating  fubtle 
particles  are  concentrated^  and  they  may  be  pre- 
ferved  a  long  time  without  loiing  their  virtue. 
When  the  Wine  ferments,  it  afts  on  thefe  fine 
particles,  and  the  motion  thereby  occafioned  is 
fufficient  to  mix  them  with  the  Wine,  which  by 
thefe  means,  contains  all  the  virtues  of  the  grape 
and  flower.  I  know  that  the  Greek  Bifhop  in 
Smyrna,  from  whom  I  learned  this  method,  had 
a  Wine  of  no  fine  Flavour,  made  of  grapes  which 
grow  at  Urla^  a  place  near  Smyrna  %  but  by  this  me- 
thod he  gave  it  a  fmell  and  Flavour  far  furpaiTing 
any  of  the  fame  Wine  not  thus  prepared.  I  know- 
not  whether  this  has  ever  been  tried  in  other  places, 
yet  I  make  not  the  leafc  doubt  but  that  it  would 
be  attended  with  equal  good  fuccefs,  in  any  place 
where  vines  are  planted,  as  nature  is  always  the 
fame,  and  never  varies. 


Dr.   has- 


LETTERS. 


403 


Dr,    H  a  S  S  E  L  Q^U  I  S  T's 
LETTERS, 

To  Profeflbr 

CHARLES       LINN^US, 

Knight  of  the  Polar  Star,  and  firfl:  Phyfician  to  the  King. 


Smyrna,  Dec.  16,  1749. 

I  Never  undertook  a  talk  fo  agreeable  as  the 
prefent,  when  I  have  the  honour  to  write  to 
you  from  fo  diftant  a  part  of  the  world,  to  affure 
you  of  my  higheft  regard  and  efleem. 

The  many  favours  you  have  conferred  on  me, 
and  the  care  you  took  to  forward  my  journey,  give 
me  hopes  that  you  vAW  with  pleafure  condefcend 
to  receive  a  detail  of  what  has  happened  to  me 
from  my  departure  to  this  day,  and  which  I  Ihall 
■now  have  the  honour  to  give  you. 

I  CAME  to  Smyrna  the  27th  of  laft  month,  af- 
ter a  voyage  of  fixteen  weeks.  ^  The  fea  agreed 
very  well  with  me,  though  it  is  not  v/ithout  its  in- 
conveniencies  ;  but  by  being  cautious,  and  thro' 
the  blefTing  of  the  Almighty,  I  have  bore  all  with- 
out receiving  any  hurt,  and  am  in  as  good  a  ftate 
of  health  at  prefent,  as  I  ever  have  been  in  my 
life.  I  have  never  been  fick  either  at  home  or 
abroad;  I  am  only  forry  that  a  boiflerous  fea 
took  from  me  all  opportunities  of  feeing  many  of 
the  wonderful  works  of  nature.     A  filh,  which 

fome- 


404        letters; 

fometimes  we  caught  with  our  hook,  or  fmall  birds 
driven  by  the  winds  to  feek  flicker  with  us,  were 
all  I  had  to  fatisfy  my  curiofity,  and  employ  my 
time,  in  defcribing  and  reducing  them  to  their 
proper  tribe.  The  latter,  viz.  wag-tails,  buntings, 
fparrows,  larks,  vifited  us  oftener  than  we  de- 
iired ;  as  they  never  foreboded  good.  They  be- 
gan their  vifits  in  the  Baltic,  and  continued  them 
to  the  Archipelago,  and  as  often  as  a  little  bird 
came  on  board  us,  we  were  always  fure  of  hard 
weather.  Thefe  little  creatures  are  as  forward  at 
fea  as  on  fliore  to  take  refuge  with  men.  I  fliould 
imagine,  our  Divines  ought  not  to  be  ignorant  of 
this  propenfity  in  them,  as  it  very  well  explains  the 
reafon  why  Noah's  dove,  which  was  of  the  fame 
tribe,  was  fo  faithful  as  to  return  to  the  ark,  ra- 
ther than  keep  out  at  fea,  or  live  in  a  world  defti- 
tute  of  men. 

I  HAVE  always  taken  care  to  get  hold  of  fome 
of  thefe  travellers,  and  have  defcribed  about  thirty 
of  them  ;  fome  of  which  I  have  feen  in  Sweden, 
others  not.  I  had  them  all  preferved ;  but  loft 
them  by  an  unlucky  accident. 

It  was  entertaining  to  fee,  when  a  lark  intended 
to  come  and  vifit  us,  which  however  never  hap- 
pened, unlefs  we  were  near  fome  fliore,  that  it  had 
the  fame  adion  at  fea  as  on  land,  fliooting  down, 
and  rifing  again  perpendicularly ;  but  it  was  ill- 
adapted  to  its  nature,  as  there  were  no  green  fields 
whereon  it  might  refl: :  this  bird  is  not  calculated 
to  refl:  on  the  fea,  therefore  the  greateft  part  of 
them  periflied  in  the  waves  ;  a  few  only,  and  thofe 
almoft  dead  reaching  us.  I  had  a  great  inclination 
to  fee  the  Peteril,  but  not  one  appeared,  though 
there  were  frequent  opportunities.  I  alfo  aflced 
«ur  old  feamen,  who  for  many  years  frequented 

the 


LETTERS.  405 

the  Spaniih  and  Mediterranean  feas,  whether  they 
had  ever  feen  fuch  a  bird ;  but  they  anfwered  in 
the  negative.  I  have  reafon  to  beHeve,  that  it  only 
appears  in  the  great  ocean  near  both  the  Indies, 
and  efpecially  the  weflern.  I  have  only  been  on 
the  ifland  Milo  in  the  Archipelago,  which  is  one 
of  the  word;  it  was  befides  in  the  autumn,  and  I 
had  no  opportunity  of  fearching  for  plants  •,  yet  I 
colle6led  fome  as  I  went  up  to  the  town,  which 
was  in  the  middle  of  November,  viz.  autumnal 
dandelion,  {Leontodon  autumnale)  Nerium  oleander^ 
which  was  already  in  feed.  Maftich  tree  (Pijiacia 
Leniifcus)  an  Anemone,  which  was  in  blofibm, 
with  variegated  blue  and  white  flowers.  In  the 
town,  the  date  tree  was  in  bloflbm,  the  flowers 
were  brought  on  the  table  with  the  defert,  at  a 
place  where  I  dined,  to  regale  us  with  their  agree- 
able odour.  Majoram  was  kept  in  a  pot,  and  gi- 
ven me  as  a  rarity. 

A  black  Game,  (Tetrao  urogallus)  was  Ihot 
there  in  a  palm  tree.  I  could  never  have  imagined, 
that  this  northern  bird  was  to  be  met  with  fo  far 
to  the  fouth,  if  I  had  not  feen  it  myfelf.  Wood- 
cocks were  alfo  to  be  feen  there,  and  I  have  fince 
feen  them  here  j  they  have  their  winter  quarters  fo 
far  to  the  fouth,  but  in  the  fummer  they  quit  this, 
country. 

I  COULD  not  get  many  fiflies  on  my  voyage, 
though  they  pleafe  me  moft.  I  have  defcribed  a 
Scoraber,  which  Artedius  hath  not  amongft  his 
fpecies,  and  1  cannot  find  that  he  mentions  it  a- 
mongtt  his  Genera.  I  got  a  Sparus  at  Milo,  which 
I  hkewife  believe  to  be  a  nondefcript. 

I  ENJOY  the  entire  good-will  and  friendlhip  of 
our  more  than  good  Conful  Mr.  Rydelius,  where 
t  board    without   expence.     I   am  treated    very 

politely 


4o6  L    E    T    T    E    R    S. 

politely  by  the  French  Conful,  Mr.  Peyfonel,  the 
Dutch  Count  Hochpied,  and  fome  Greeks  of  con- 
dition ;  Mr.  Peyfonel  is  a  very  learned  man,  and 
affords  me  much  pleafure. 

Ti-iE  college  of  Phyficians  of  this  town  which 
confifcs  of  five  Do6tors,  all  Greeks,  who  have  ftu- 
died  in  Italy,  ihevv  me  much  complaifance,  and 
have  called  me  feveral  times  to  their  confultations. 
This  is  a  place,  where  I  can  do  much  in  natural 
Hiftory,  if  the  long  journey  I  have  to  make,  and 
my  little  money,  will  allow  me  to  tarry  here  a  few 
months.  The  fea  affords  nflies  and  variety  of  other 
animals.  Wild  fowl  are  in  greater  plenty  here 
than  in  other  places,  and  are  daily  brought  to 
market  from  the  country  and  fea.  The  hills,  dales 
and  plains,  v^ill  be  rich  in  flowers  when  the  feafon 
once  approaches ;  and  I  can  never  have  a  better 
opportunity  of  looking  round  me  in  a  foreign 
country  than  I  have  here.  Our  Conful's  Interpre- 
ters, Janififaries  and  horfes  are  at  my  fervice,  when- 
ever 1  pleafe ;  and  befides,  I  live  in  a  houfe,  to 
which  they  daily  bring  fifh  and  wild  fowl. 

The  time  I  have  been  here  has  particularly 
afforded  me  an  opportunity  of  feeing  the  kinds  of 
fiih  and  {hell-fifh  the  Greeks  ufe  in  their  Lent.  I 
believe  no  people  make  fo  much  ufe  of  fhell -fifli, 
and  other  fea  animals,  as  the  Greeks  do.  I  have 
feen  them  eat  ten  different  forts  of  fhell-fifh,  (lob- 
ftersj  crabs,  prawns  and  fhrimps  are  not  included 
here,  being  ranked  by  Linnseus  under  the  clafs  of 
infefts)  when  with  us  oyflers  only  are  eaten.  A- 
mongfl  others  they  fell  here  a  Sepia  (Cuttle  fifh,) 
which  by  them  is  called  oktutto^kz  ;  it  has  only  eight 
tentacula,  all  of  equal  length  ;  the  whole  animal  is 
a  foot  long,  and  thick  in  proportion.  Of  this  the 
Greeks  have  related  me  an  anecdote,  which  I  think 

remarkable : 


LETTERS.  407 

remarkable :  the  Pinna  muricata,  or  great  Silk 
mufcle,  is  here  found  in  the  bottom  of  the  fea  in 
large  quantities,  being  a  foot  long  :  the  oKTWTroJ'ia, 
or  cuttle  filh  with  eight  rays,  watches  the  oppor- 
tunity, when  the  mufcle  opens  her  Ihell,  to  creep 
in  it,  and  devour  her  ;  but  a  little  crab,  which  has 
fcarceiy  any |^ ihell,  or  has  at  leafc  only  a  very  thiti 
one,  lodges  conftantly  in  this  iliell-fifh  \  ihe  pays 
a  good  rent,  by  faving  the  life  of  her  landlady,  for 
fhe  keeps  a  conftant  look  out  through  the  aper- 
ture of  the  fnell,  and  on  feeing  the  enemy  ap- 
proach, ^at  begins  to  ftir,  when  the  Triva,  (for  (o 
the  Greeks  call  the  fhell)  fliuts  up  her  houfe,  and 
the  rapacious  animal  is  excluded.  I  faw  this  fliell- 
fifh  firfi:  at  the  ifland  of  Milo,  and  found  fuch  a 
little  crab  in  all  I  opened  :  I  v/ondered  not  a  lit- 
tle what  was  her  bufmefs  there  ;  but  when  I  came 
here,  I  was  «irfi:  informed  of  it  by  the  Secretary  of 
our  Conful,  Mr.  Jufti,  a  curious  and  ingenious 
man,  who  has  travelled  much,  and  lived  long  in  this 
place.  This  was  afterwards  confirmed  by  feve- 
ral  Greeks,  who  daily  catch  and  eat  both  thefe 
animals,  i  have  fuinciently  defcribed  thefe  three 
animals,  \v\i\\  the  fifii  and  birds  I  have  (ztn.  to  this 
day,  and  likewife  preferve  them  all,  fome  dried, 
others  in  fpirits  of  wine.  1  have  the  honour  to  tranf- 
mit  a  defcription  of  aC<?(9/^  (Fulica),  the  others  fhall 
follow,  as  foon  as  I  can  copy  them,  and  my  journal. 
As  to  what  relates  to  the  continuing  of  my 
journey  to  Paleiline,  I  had  at  firfc  an  intention  of 
going  to  Conitantinople,  and  thence  to  Syria  •,  but 
believe  I  fhall  alter  my  mind,  and  go  dire6lly 
hence,  for  many  reafons.  Flere  the  opportunities 
of  getting  vefTels  are  more  frequent,  the  voyage 
is  fhorter  :  I  have  alfo  heard,  that  in  a  Oiort  time 
there  will  be  a  good  opportunity  of  going  in  com- 
pany 


4o8  LETTER    S. 

pany  with  the  Armenian  Patriarch  from  Jerufalem^ 
who  is  here  at  prefent.  The  journey  I  have  flill 
to  make  requires  more  money  than  I  imagined,  if 
I  accomplilh  the  purpofe  I  intended.  1  think  it 
would  be  a  great  pity,  that  a  matter  of  fuch  con- 
fequcnce,  which  has  fo  far  been  purfued,  Ihould  be 
dropped  for  want  of  money.  I  will  anfwer  for  it, 
that  with  a  little  addition  of  money,  and  the  aflilt- 
ance  of  the  Almighty,  the  natural  Hiftory  of  Pa- 
lefline,  and  the  adjacent  places,  fhall  be  as  well 
known,  as  that  of  any  country,  except  Sweden.  If 
my  money  would  permit,  I  could  take  a  fervant 
with  me  from  this  place,  who  might  be  my  Inter- 
preter, and  without  one,  I  fhall  lofe  many  fair  op- 
portunities of  informations,  in  places  where  they 
don't  fpeak  fo  many  European  languages  as  in 
Smyrna ;  but  there  are  befides  other  neceflary 
expences  in  thofe  places,  without  which  I  cannot 
advance  a  ftep, 

I  HOPE  to  have  a  fine  collecSlion  of  living  and  dead 
natural  curiofities,  by  the  time  I  intend  to  return 
home.  Mr.  Rydelius,  our  Conful,  hath  promifed 
me  fome  living  pheafants,  of  incomparable  beauty, 
from  the  borders  of  Perfia  :  a  kind  of  patridges 
called  Francolins,  which  are  not  defcribed  in  the 
Syftema  Naturas,  fome  turtle  doves,  and  a  Pelican 
preferved ;  I  know  a  method  of  getting  a  living 
rock  goat,  befides  a  number  of  known  and  un- 
known fifhes,  birds  and  plants,  which  I  have  alrea- 
dy got,  and  Ihall  hereatter  colled. 

Smyrna,  January  29,  1750. 

I  WAS  this  moment  informed  of  a  veflers  going 
to  Europe,  and  therefore  muft  not  omit  the  op- 
portunity of  writing  to  you. 

I  AM 


LETTERS.  409 

1  AM  only  forry,  that  time  will  not  permit  me  to 
make  fuch  expedition  as  I  could  wiili  in  forward- 
ing to  you  all  the  obfervations  and  defcriptions  I 
have  made  in  Natural  Hiftory  to  this  time.  But 
they  Ihail  fpeedily  be  tranfmitced. 

Francolins  and  Poulle  de  Montagnes  are  new 
bird'^,  which  I  apprehend  have  not  been  defcrib- 
cd,  and  are  of  the  genus  Tetrao  %  the  firft  was 
drawn  by  Tournefort,  in  his  travels,  but  badly. 
I  have  a  kind  of  Blackbird  which  fings  exceeding 
well,  is  black  and  grey,  and  comes  from  the 
iflands  in  the  Archioelap-o  ;    it   is   often  fold   for 

J.  O        ' 

fifty  piafters  at  Conftantinople.  I  have  a  living 
Turtle-dove,  of  a  very  rare  fort,  v/hich  came 
from  Abyffinia  in  Africa,  and  is  as  white  as  chalk. 
I  have  the  Pelican  ftuffed.  I  have  feen  all  our 
Swedifli  fea  fowl  here.  Mr.  Rydelius  is  very  de- 
firous  of  procuring  birds,  and  has  lately  taken  mea- 
fures  to  get  fome  Oftrichcs  and  other  rare  birds  from 
Egypt,  all  which  he  intends  to  fend  to  Sweden. 
I  have  often  feen,  and  have  well  defcribed  the 
Rock  Goat.  It  is  fuch  a  fine  creature^  that  Solo- 
mon could  not  mean  any  other  animal  than  this 
by  the  Doe,  to  which  he  compared  his  Bride  in 
the  Canticles.  And  they  are  found  in  abundance 
in  the  mountains  of  Syria  and  Palefiine;  but  they 
are  more  like  Cervus  Capreolus  in  outward  appear- 
ance, than  a  Goat.  Canis  aureus  ( Jackcal)  is  found 
in  greater  numbers  here,  than  the  inhabitants 
wifh  ',  I  intend  foon  to  go  out  and  fhoot  one,  and 
fhali  then  make  a  compleat  delcription  of  it, 

I  HAVE  botanized  here  feveral  times  this  winter, 
and  never  loft  my  labour.  I  fhall  without  delay 
have  the  honour  to  tranfmit  my  whole  colledion 
of  plants  and  defcriptions  ;  in  the  m.ean  time,  -I 
fend  one  inclofed,  which  I  imagine  to  be  new  ;  at 

Z  ieaft. 


4IO  LETTERS. 

kaft,  T  cannot  range  it  under  any  genus  in  Synge- 
nefia,  Monogamia,  though  it  belongs  to  the  or- 
der. I  have  completely  defcribed  and  fufHciently 
dried  it. 

I  HAVE  not  omitted  to  fearch  for  proofs  of  the 
fea's  diminution-,  and  I  have  found  fome,  which 
are  I  think  very  evident ;  I  Ihall  do  myfelf  the 
honour  of  tranfmitting  them  the  firft  opportuni- 
ty to  the  Royal  Academy  of  Sciences.  For  five 
days  pad,  the  cold  in  Smyrna  has  been  unufually 
fevere.  The  Florentine  thermometer  points  to  68, 
The  ice  has  been  fo  thick  at  the  fides  of  the  har- 
bour, that  the  Dutch  have  fkaited  on  it.  The  old- 
eft  people  in  the  town  do  not  remember  fuch  fe- 
vere weather  to  have  lafted  fo  long  at  any  time 
before.  If  the  winter  in  Upfala,  is  in  proportion 
as  fevere  as  this,  God  alone  can  fave  Upfala  garden. 

Being  accuftomed  to  Swedifh  winters,  I  (hould. 
not  mind  this,  if  I  had  but  a  Swedifh  ftove.  I  am 
obliged  to  fit  at  a  miferable  coal  fire  to  write  this, 
and  never  was  fo  cold  in  Sweden,  as  in  the  mife- 
rable architedture  of  this  country.  I  know  not 
yet  how  foon  the  Patriarch,  in  whofe  company  I 
expedt  to  travel  to  Jerufalem,  fets  out  j  but  be- 
lieve, I  fhall  remain  here  another  month. 

Smyrna,  February  9,  1750. 

I  JOYFULLY  embrace  every  opportunity  I 
have  of  writing  to  you,  and  think  myfelf  hap- 
py, whenever  I  can  fulfil  this  my  duty. 

I  HAD  the  honour  of  tranfmitting  a  plant  to 
you  fome  days  ago,  which  I  knov/  not,  the  defcrip- 
tion  now  follows  ;  together  with  one  of  a  Sepa^Cuz- 
tlefifli.)  If  any  miftakes  have  crept  in  to  my  de- 
Icriptions,  I  requeft  your  favourable  corredion,  as 
they  are  made  by  a  young  beginner.     I  have  firft 

learned, 


LETTERS.  411 

learned,  during  my  travels,  to  defci-ibe  well  the 
produdions  of  nature  ;  I  improve  every  day,  and 
if  1  can  only  in  time  arrive  at  a  fmall  fhare  in  the 
learning  and  ingenuity  of  my  great  matter,  I  will 
not  exchange  it  for  the  art  of  the  greateft  Painter. 
No  natural  curiofities  are  fo  difficult  to  defcribe, 
as  fhells  and  corallines,  which  are  here  found  in 
great  plenty,  and  I  by  no  means  pafs  them  over. 
I  poflefs  in  you  a  friend,  who  kindly  and  wifely 
correds  my  errors.  I  have  now  a  fine  bundle  of 
defcriptions  ;  I  fhall  fend  them  over,  as  foon  as  I 
can  copy  them. 

The  inclofed,  I  requeft,  you  will  deliver  to  Dr. 
Rofen  and  Dr.  Bsck,  the  King's  Phyficians.  I 
have  given  the  former  an  account  of  the  prefenc 
ilate  of  Phyfic  in  Smyrna ;  the  latter  of  an  en- 
demical  difeafe  in  Aleppo ;  the  copy  of  thefe  I 
fhall  have  the  honour  of  tranfmitting  to  you  foon. 
In  this  manner  I  intend  to  pay  my  refpetfts  to  my 
Patrons. 

Smyrna,  April  6. 

STILL  continue  in  the  place,  from  which  I 
have  feveral  times  had  the  honour  of  writing  to 
you.  I  have  tarried  here  longer  than  I  intended, 
for  want  of  a  proper  opportunity  ;  but  I  do  not 
repent  of  my  ilay,  on  account  of  the  opportunity 
I  have  had  of  living  during  a  fine  fpring,  at  a 
place  fo  rich  in  natural  curiofities,  as  this  neigh- 
bourhood of  Natolia  is.  Each  day  brings  to  my 
knowledge  nev/  things  in  Botany,  and  this  has 
been  the  cafe  for  a  month  paft ;  if  I  had  feveral 
to  aflifl  me,  we  fhould  all  have  enough  to  do. 

Some  time  ago,  I  made  a  journey  in  Natolia 
to  the  town  of  Magnefia,  eight  leagues  from 
hence.     I  botanized  there  on  the  mount  Svpilus 

Z  2  'of 


412  LETTER     S; 

of  the  ancients,  one  of  the  highefl  in  Afia,  which  is 
covered  with  fnow  all  the  year.  I  (hall  have  the  ho- 
nour of  giving  an  account  of  the  plants  I  found 
there,  when  I  fend  the  bulk  of  my  colle6lion. 

I  FOUND  alfo  infedls  there,  which  had  never  been 
before  difturbed.  I  daily  colled  numbers  of  them  ; 
and  it  is  remarkable,  that  many  of  them  are  men- 
tioned in  the  Fauna  Suecica,  but  fome  are  peculiar 
to  this  country.  I  have  the  honour  of  tranlmitting 
a  little  fly,  which  I  took  yefterday  in  the  fruit  of  a 
fisc-tree  ;  it  lies  inclofed  in  the  germen  of  the  fe- 
male  fig,  which  it  has  eaten  up.  Whether  this  is 
the  infed:  that  ferves  afterwards  to  impregnate  the 
fruit,  I  cannot  yet  determine.  Before  1  quit  this 
place,  I  fhall  endeavour  to  acquire  a  clear  idea  of 
the  fig-tree*s  infeds  -,  this  rriuft  be  a  Cynips,  and 
the  fig  its  Galla ;  1  have  completely  defcribed  it. 

I  HAVE  diverted  myfelf  for  fome  time  with  the 
Chameleon  and  Turtles,  to  fee  their  qualities,  when 
I  had  them  alive  in  my  chamber.  I  (hall  in  time 
publifh  the  obfervations  I  made  on  them.  I  wifh 
I  had  fome  of  the  latter  in  Upfala  to  ornament 
your  garden  -,  it  is  very  eafy  to  gee  them  home 
alive  •,  I  fliall  endeavour  to  accomplifh  it.  It  is 
very  amufing  to  fee  how  they  make  love.  I  have 
got  a  quantity  of  the  Cornucopi^e^  the  rare  grafs, 
which  you  were  pleafed  to  recommend  fo  much  to 
me,  to  fearch  for  round  Smyrna  ;  I  have  likewife 
defcribed  it  •,  and  inclofed,  fend  you  fome  fpeci- 
mens.  I  fhall  gather  the  feeds  when, they  are 
ripe,  and  fend  them  to  the  Academical  Garden, 
which  1  hope  will  be  the  firfl  that  gets  this  fine 
plant. 

This  fliort  account  how  I  have  employed  my 
lime,  is  all  I  can  have  the  honour  to  impart  to 
you  at  prefent.     1  Ihall  not  omit  to  give  you  a 

laro-^r 


LETTER    S.  413 

larger  colleflion  of  my  obfervations    before  my 
departure  hence. 

I  AM  now  determined  to  leave  this  place  next 
afcenfion-day,  and  go  from  hence  in  a  French  fhip 
to  Alexandria  in  Egypt,  there  I  intend  to  obtain 
what  information  I  can  in  a  fhort  time,  and  fo  go 
over  to  Palaeftine. 

Smyrna,    April  28. 

I  AM  now  at  the  point  of  leaving  this  place, 
from  whence  I  have  had  frequent  agreeable 
opportunities  of  writing  ro  you.  i  have  got  a 
Turkifh  pafs,  and  expe6t  every  day  an  oppor- 
tunity to  continue  my  journey  in  fome  veiTel, 
which  in  all  appearance  will  be  firft  to  Egypt,  by 
way  of  Cyprus  to  Alexandria  and  Cairo,  whence 
I  intend,  with  the  help  of  God,  to  go  to  the  place  of 
my  deftination,  Palasftine.  I  hope  thefe  places,  in 
a  promifmg  time  of  the  year,  will  afford  me  fuf- 
ficient  opportunities  for  obfervations  in  Natural 
Hiftory,  which  I  wifli  in  time  to  lay  before  you. 
I  fhallelteem  myfelf  happy,  if  there  fhould  be  any 
amongft  them  worth  your  attendon,  and  fiiall  have 
gained  the  greateft  reward  I  can  expecl  from  my 
poor  endeavours. 

Flora  begins  now  in  this  country  to  put  on 
her  beft  attire,  fine  varieties  of  Amm  nes  adorn  the 
plains  :  Hyacinths  grow  near  the  roads  :  Ranun- 
culus of  a  large  and  fine  variety  is  common  in  the 
vineyards :  the  Almond-tree  blofibms  on  the  bare 
branches,  and  gives  the  hills  an  elegant  appear- 
ance, where  they  are  mixt  wirh  the  ever-green 
olive-trees.  I  often  willi,  that  thefe  were  as  com- 
mon in  Sweden  as  Fumitory  and  Treacle  muftard 

Z  3  are 


414  LETTERS. 

are  here,  with  feveral  others,  which  I  find  are  na- 
tives of  Natolia  as  well  as  Sweden. 

The  following  obfervations  about  the  fig-tree 
I.  have  acquired  here,  and  now  fhall  have  the  ho- 
nour of  communicating  them  to  you,  as  I  got 
them. 

The  polTeffors  of  fig-trees  are  very  follicitous, 
that  the  much-talked-of  fly  fhall  pierce  the  fig, 
and  unlefs  this  is  done,  they  are  perfuaded  they 
fhall  have  no  fruit. 

Another  infeft  perfecutes  this  and  kills  it,  to 
the  lols  of  the  pofTefTors ;  this  they  hinder  by 
fmearing.  a  paint  on  the  tree,  juft  beneath  the 
branches ;  this  confifts  of  common  red  paint  and 
Vi^ater,  Vv^hich  the  pernicious  infed  dares  not  to 
pafs.  I  have  in  all  places  feen  many  fuch  rings 
painted  on  the  tree  •,  but  cannot  know  the  infe(5ts, 
as  the  feafon  of  the  year  permitted  me  not  to  fearch 
for  it,  perhaps  it  is  a  pifmire. 

Those,  who  cultivate  fig-trees,  take  the  black 
figs  (thus  they  call  Caprificus),  and  faften  them  on 
a  thread  in  the  form  of  a  necklace,  which  they 
hang  on  the  fruit-bearing  trees,  and  believe  it  to 
contribute  towards  producing  good  and  great 
plenty  of  fruit. 

The  fig-tree  is  fubjed  to  a  fcurf  (AsV^a  Grsec. 
hod.)  I  faw  plenty  of  this  fcurf  yefterday,  and 
fpund  it  to  confift  of  a  quantity  of  infedls  cells 
placed  on  the  bark  of  the  branches,  of  the  fize  of 
a  pea,  the  top  of  them  depreffed,  and  a  little 
pointed  in  the  middle,  of  a  very  brittle  fubfl? nee, 
being  eafily  rubbed  to  duft  between  the  fingers  •, 
they  confiil  of  tvv'o  membranes,  of  which  the  in- 
ward is  brown,  and  the  outward  greyifh,  there  are 
always  three  placd  together,  fo  as  to  form  a  trian- 
gle.   They  were  dry  and  dead  on  all  the  trees 

when 


LETTERS.  415 

when  I  faw  them,  nor  could  I  find  either  living  or 
dead  infedis  in  any  of  them  ;  however,  I  defpair 
not  of  finding,  at  a  proper  time  of  the  yea,r,  the 
infeds  which  make  them. 

The  Caprificus  is  planted  in  quantities  round 
gardens  for  hedges  •,  1  fuppofe,  no  Swedifh  gardener 
will  venture  to  plant  theie  trees  for  the  fame  ufe  ; 
but  by  the  fine  hedges  which  ivy  makes  round  the 
badly  laid  out  gardens  of  this  town,  I  am  per- 
fuaded  it  would  ferve  for  the  fame  purpofe,  if  we 
had  it  in  fufficient  quantities.  The  defcriptions, 
which  I  made  to  this  time  of  quadrupeds,  birds, 
amphibia  and  plants,'amount  to  about  500  fpecies, 
which  are  all  completely  defcribed  ;  to  which  I 
may  add  as  many  obfervations  on  various  fubjecls 
in  Natural  Hiftory.  I  fhall  have  the  honour  of 
fubmitting  to  your  favourable  judgment,  as  many 
of  them  as  1  can  copy  off,  before  my  departure. 
I  fend  one  inclofed  ;  1  know  not  whether  this  bird 
is  defcribed  or  not.  The  fubfidence  of  the  fea  is 
fo  evident  in  this  place,  that  it  can  fcarcely  be 
eafier  demonftrated  in  any  other  place,  that  the 
fea  yearly  decreafes.  In  the  inclofed  letter,  to 
Secretary  Elvius,  I  have  fpoke  my  mind  freely  and 
clearly  on  this  fubje6l,  but  fome  things  I  have  re - 
ferved  to  myfelf,  which  I  wifh  in  time  to  relate  to 
you  in  perfon  ;  and  until  then  (hall  fay  no  more 
on  that  fubjed. 

May  the  Supreme  Being  let  us  fee  the  time, 
v^hen  our  country  may  acquire  honour  and  benefit 
from  thofe  things,  which  foreigners  have  pafled 
over  on  their  travels,  in  which,  as  well  as  in  almoft 
every  thing  elfe,  we  have  been  the  lait ;  but  God 
be  praifed  !  we  hope  not  the  word  in  the  world. 

Z  4  Alexandria, 


4i6,  LETTERS. 

Alexandria,  May  i8,  1750. 

I  HAVE  now  the  honour  to  write  to  you,  from  a 
diffcreni  part  of  the  world,  than  1  have  hither- 
to done.  I  came  hither  the  1 3th  of  this  month, 
after  I  had  tan  led  in  Natolia  above  five  months. 

In  the  few  days  I  have  been  in  Egypt,  even  in 
the  moft  barren  places  that  I  have  feen,  I  find 
that  this  fine  country  can  afford  an  infinity  of 
curious  fubjedts  in  Natural  Hiftory,  to  employ 
my  time  in  the  three  feveral  kingdoms  of  Nature. 
The  four  days  I  have  looked  round  me,  give  me 
reafon  to  hope  much. 

The  firft  thing  1  did  after  my  arrival  was, 
to  fee  the  Date-tree,  the  ornament  and  a  great  part 
of  the  riches  of  this  country.  It  had  already 
bloflxDmed,  but  1  had,  neverthelefs,  the  pleafure 
of  feeing  how  the  Arabs  aflift  its  fecundation,  and 
by  that  means  fecure  to  themfelves  a  plentiful  har- 
veft  of  a  vegetable,  which  was  fo  important  to  them, 
and  known  to  them,  many  centuries  before  any 
Botanifl:  dreamed  of  the  difference  of  fexes  in  ve- 
getables. The  Gardener  informed  me  of  this, 
before  I  had  time  to  enquire,  and  would  fhev/  me, 
as  a  very  curious  thing,  the  male  and  female  of 
the  Date  or  Palm-trees  •,  nor  could  he  conceive 
how  I,  a  Frank,  lately  arrived,  could  know  it  be- 
fore •,  for,  fays  he,  all  who  have  yet  come  from 
Europe  to  fee  this  country,  have  regarded  his  re- 
lation either  as  a  fable  or  a  miracle.  The  Arab, 
feeing  me  inclined  to  be  further  informed,  ac- 
companied me  and  my  French  interpreter  to  a 
Palm-tree,  which  was  very  full  of  young  fruit, 
and  had  by  him  been  wedded  or  fecundated  with 
the  male,  when  both  were  in  bloffom.  This  the 
Arabs  do  in  the  following  manner  :  when  ihtfpa- 


LETTERS.  417 

dix^  ha.5  female  flowers t  that  comes  out  of  \t%fpatha^ 
they  fearch  on  a  tree  that  has  male  flowers,  which, 
they  know  by  experience,  for  a  fpadix,  which 
has  not  yet  burfted  out  of  its  Jpatha :  this  they 
open,  take  out  the  fpadix,  and  cut  it  lengthways 
in  feveral  pieces,  but  take  care  not  to  hurt  the 
flowers.  A  piece  of  this  fp a dix,  with  male  flowers, 
they  put  lengthways  between  the  fmall  branches  of 
tht  fpadix  which  hath  female  flowers,  and  then  lay 
the  leaf  of  a  Palm  over  the  branches.  In  this  fi- 
tuation,  I  yet  faw  the  greateft  part  of  the  fpadices 
which  bore  their  young  fruit ;  but  the  male  flowers 
■which  were  put  between  were  withered.  The 
Arab  befides  gave  me  the  following  anecdotes : 
Firft,  unlefs  they,  in  this  manner,  wed  and  fecun- 
date the  Date  tree,  it  bears  no  fruit.  Secondly, 
they  always  take  the  precaution  to  preferve  fome 
wv\o\iQT\td.  fpath^e  with  male  flowers^  from  one  year 
to  another,  to  be  applied  for  this  purpofe,  in 
cafe  the  male  flowers  fhould  mifcarry  or  fuffer 
damage.  Thirdly,  if  they  permit  the  fpadix  of 
the  male  flowers  to  burft  or  come  out,  it  becomes 
ufelefs  for  fecundation  :  it>mull:  have  its  maiden- 
head,  (thefe  were  the  words  of  the  Arab)  which 
is  loft  in  the  fame  moment  the  bloffoms  burft 
out  of  their  cafe.  Therefore  the  perfon,  who  cul- 
tivates Date-trees,  muft  be  careful  to  hit  the  right 
time  of  affifting  their  fecundation,  which  is  almoft 
the  only  article  in  their  cultivation.  Thirdly,  on 
opening  the  fpatha^  he  finds  all  the  tnaie  flowers 
full  of  a  liquid,  which  refembles  the  finelt  dew  ; 
it  is  of  a  fweet  and  plealant  tafte,  refembhng 
much  the  tafte  of  frefh  Dates;  but  much  more 
refined  and  aromatick:  this  was  likewife  con- 
firmed by  my  interpreter,  who  hath  lived  thirty- 
two  years  in  Egypt,  and  therefore  had  opportuni- 
ties 


4i§  LETTERS. 

ties  enough    of  tading  both   the  nedlar  of    the 
bloiToms,   and  the  frefh  Dates. 

Thus  much  have  I  learned  of  this  wonderful 
work  of  Nature,  in  a  country,  where  it  may  be 
feen  every  year.  I  fhall  have  the  honour  to  give 
a  relation  of  the  ufe,  and  divers  other  qualities  of 
the  Date-tree,  at  fome  other  opportunity.  1  hope 
in  time  to  be  able  to  give  you  a  complete  hiftory 
of  this  Palm.  I  wifh  1  was  as  fure  of  an  oppor- 
tunity of  feeing  all  the  Palm  tribe. 

The  other  plants  I  faw  in  this  neighbourhood, 
are  Egyptian  Acacia,  (Mimofa  nilotica)  Chaite- 
tree,  (Vitex  agnus  callus)  Palma  Chrifli,  feveral 
forts  of  Goofe-foot,  (Chenopodium)  and  Fig- 
marigold,  (Mefembryanthemum.)  I  never  faw 
a  fpecies  of  Goofe-foot  in  Natolia,  where  other- 
wife  every  thing  grew  ;  but  I  have  feen  very  little 
in  Egypt  yet.  Alexandria  is  the  word  part  of  it, 
and  is  only  a  port  for  Ihipping  off  the  riches  of 
Egypt,  Arabia  and  Abyffinia.  Pleafe  God,  I 
fhall  foon  fee  Rofette,  the  garden  of  this  king- 
dom ;  and  the  Nile,  the  repofitory  of  its  natural 
curiofities.  In  Cairo,  I  fhall  endeavour  to  get 
fome  fragments  of  the  Natural  Hiflory  of  Arabia 
and  Egypt.  1  have  great  hopes  o(  learning  the 
hiftory  of  the  Balfam  of  Mecca  ;  I  have  already 
got  a  number  of  informations  from  the  Mecca 
•travellers,  and  only  wait  to  get  a  little  Ihrub  of  it 
from  a  Turk,  at  the  end  of  the  year,  if  poffible, 
or  at  leaft  a  branch, and  perhaps  bioflbms,  for  which 
1  have  already  taken  proper  mealures.  There  is  a 
pofiibility  of  getting  the  plant,  which  yields  the 
Myrrh,  by  the  caravan  from  Ethiopia  to  Cairo  ; 
but  it  requires  time,  and  fome  expences  •,  I  fhall 
do  all  in  my  power.  If  it  is  poffible,  I  fhall  make 
a  tour  to  Upper  Egypt  j  but  of  this  I  can  fay 

nothing 


LETTERS.  419 

nothing  for  certain,  before  I  come  to  Cairo. 
Pleafe  God,  I  fhall  fee  Palaeftine,  which  is  my 
chief  bufinefs,  next  Autumn,  and  perhaps  remain 
there  to  the  Spring  following,  that  I  may  fee  the 
two  principal  feafons  of  the  year,  viz.  Autumn 
and  Spring,  when  every  thing  is  in  bloffom. 

I  REQUEST  you  will  pleafe  to  honour  me  with 
a  letter  before  that  time,  and  inform  me,  whether 
you  would  have  me  enquire  after  any  thing  in  par- 
ticular, and  whether  Dr.  Celfius  knows  any  thing 
in  particular,  which  he  would  have  me  look  after. 
Though  I  fearch  after  every  thing,  yet  1  may  l^y 
fuch  informations  have  an  opportunity  of  clear- 
ing up  fome  things,  which,  without  them,  I 
might  perhaps  pafs  over. 

I  REQUEST  you  wiU  pleafe  to  afk  Dr.  Celfius, 
whether  the  writers  on  Scripture  plants  have  ever 
thought  what  vegetable  David  refers  to  in  Pfalmi. 
ver.  3.  under  the  name  of  the  Tree  of  the  Righteous. 
David  attributes  qualities  to  this  tree,  which  plain- 
ly (hew,  that  he  means  fome  particular  vegetable. 
And  thefe  qualities  are  fuch,  that  they  cannot  be 
attributed  to  any,  but  the  Neriiim  (oleander)  which 
grows  in  abundance  in  this  country.  One  word 
about  St.  John's  Locufts,  which  have  puzzled  the 
learned  fo  much.  They,  who  deny  infeds  to  have 
been  the  food  of  this  holy  man,  urge,  that  this 
infecl  is  an  uncuftomary  and  unnatural  food  ;  but 
they  would  foon  be  convinced  of  the  contrary,  if 
they  would  travel  hither  to  Egypt,  Arabia  or 
Syria,  and  take  a  meal  with  the  Arabs ;  roafted 
Locufts,  are  at  this  time  eaten  by  the  Arabians,  at 
the  proper  feafon,  when  they  can  procure  them  ;  fo 
that  in  all  probability,  this  difli  has  been  ufed  in  the 
time  of  St.  John.  Ancient  cuftoms  are  not  here  fub- 
jeft  to  many  changes.  The  vi6tuals  of  St.  John  are 

not 


420  LETTERS. 

not  believed  unnatural  here ;  and  as  I  was  once 
fpeaking  to  a  judicious  Greek  Pricft  about  this  af- 
fair, and  told  him  that  the  learned  in  Europe  were 
of  different  opinions,  whether  St.  John  in  the  de- 
fart,  eat  a  kind  of  bird,  or  a  plant,  afking  him 
■which  of  thefe  opinions  he  thought  the  true  one  ? 
He  anfwered  with  a  laugh,  that  both  were  alike 
erroneous.  Their  church  had  never  taken  this 
food  to  be  any  other,  than  what  is  exprefled  in  the 
Teftament,  nor  did  he  know  any  thing  to  contra- 
diait. 

I  HAVE  the  honour  to  fend  here  inclofed  the  fly 
called  Panorpa  Coa,  which  I  took  on  the  ifland  Me- 
teline  in  the  Archipelago  ;  I  have  never  feen  this 
fpecies  in  Sweden,  and  know  not  whether  it  is 
Swedifh,  if  it  is,  it  was  unnecefiary  to  fend  it  fo  far. 

Likewise  the  meafure  (28  feet,)  containing  the 
thicknefs  of  the  Plane-tree,  which  is  a  prodigy  in 
our  father's  kingdom,  I  mean  Stanchio,  the  town 
in  which  Hippocrates  was  born.  This  tree  has 
forty-feven  branches,  each  a  fathom  thick,  fup- 
ported  by  ftone  pillars,  and  covers  a  very  large 
terrace,  ftiades  feveral  houfes  of  various  fizes,  being 
above  twenty  in  number ;  I  imagine,  in  feeing  it,  to 
have  beheld  thelargeft,  oldefl,  and  moft  remarkable 
inhabitant  of  the  vegetable  kingdom.  All  the  ob- 
fervations  and  colleftions  I  made  in  Natolia,  I  have 
left  in  Smyrna,  in  the  houfe  of  Conful  Rydelius. 
I  fhall  have  the  honour  to  fend  you  copies  of  a 
great  number  of  them,  which  I  have  taken  with 
me  in  notes,  as  faft  as  I  can  write  them.  I  am 
alone,  and  if  I  had  only  one  to  affift  me  in  writ- 
ing, I  (hould  do  twice  as  much ;  but  how  fljall 
we  get  bread  in  the  wildernefs  ? 

A  cERTAixM  affair  has  happened  to  me,  of  which 
this    opportunity  will   not  permit  me  to   fpeak, 

which 


LETTERS.  421 

which  will  make  my  journey  to  Egypt  eafy  and 
not  expenfive  j  but  in  Syria  and  Palseftine,  I 
cannot  avoid  expence.  Conful  Rydelius,  whofe 
goodnefs  I  can  never  enough  commend,  has  ta- 
ken upon  him  to  furnifh   me  with  money. 

Cairo,  September,    1750. 

SINCE  my  laft,  I  have  feen  more  of  Egypt^ 
and  had  an  opportunity  of  acquiring  fome 
knowledge  of  a  country,  which  is  certainly  one 
of  the  moft  remarkable  on  our  globe.  You  will 
find  by  the  inclofed  lift,  what  I  have  done  in  Na- 
tural Hiftory.  1  could  have  increafed  it  with  a 
larger  number;  but  I  would  only  mention  the 
principal  fubjefls,  and  fuch  as  I  had  time  to  firifh 
as  well  as  I  pofifibly  could  upon  a  journey  and  de- 
llitute  of  Books,  vyhich  are  fometimes  neceffary  to 
refer  to,  I  fhall  add  a  few  defcriptions,  and  have  at- 
tained my  wilhes,  if  you  approve  of  them.  The 
account  how  to  prepare  Sal  armoniac,  I  intend 
for  the  Royal  Society,  having  compofed  it  on  the 
fpot,  where  Sal  armoniac  is  made.  I  hope  it  will 
not  be  unnacceptable,  as  it  is  the  lirft  account 
which,  as  far  as  I  know,  has  been  written  at 
large  and  diftinclly  on  the  fpot,  and  by  an  eye- 
witnefs.  I  fend  it  open  to  you,  defiring  you  will 
pleafe  to  read  it  over,  and  afterwards  feai  it,  and 
fend  it  to  the  Royal  Academy  of  Sciences. 

I  HAVE  not  put  down  in  my  lift,  the  Pyramids 
of  Egypt,  nor  the  Mumies  ^.nd  their  fepulchres  ; 
but  I  ought  not  to  pafs  over  in  fiience  my  having 
feen  them,  which  is  fufficient.  I  cannot  detain 
you  longer  with  thefe  things,  without  following  the 
common  track  of  every  voyager,  who  never  for- 
gets to  fpeak  largely  about  the  width,  depth, 
height  and   breadth  of  thefe  things,  which   now 

fcarcelv 


425  LETTERS. 

fcarcely  deferve  the  leaft  attention  of  a  tra,vellef» 
after  having  been  feenby  fomany  thoufands.  But  I 
efteem  myfelf  happy  in  having  feen  fon:iething  elfe 
in  Egypt,  which  alone  certainly  deferves  a  voyage 
to  this  country,  I  mean  the  flowing  of  the  Nile^ 
which  may  with  reafon  be  called  a  wonder  of  na- 
ture, aflifted  by  art.  But  the  moft  furprifing  thing 
of  all,  is,  that  the  fields  of  Egypt  owe  to  our  northern 
mountains  their  fertiUty,  and  of  courfe  the  coun- 
try its  felicity.  This  is  a  matter  which  is  certain- 
ly known  to  our  natural  Philofophers,  as  it  is  al- 
lowed by  all  the  Wifemen  of  Egypt,  who  have  it 
from  their  mafters  through  many  generations. 
They  fay,  that  the  water,  which  every  year  en- 
creafes  the  Nile,  rifes  from  the  earth  towards  the 
North  Pole,  is  changed  into  clouds,  and  thus  tra- 
vels, when  thefe  have  a  proper  wind,  over  Europe 
and  Africa,  as  far  as  the  Montes  Lun^  in  Ethiopia, 
where  it  falls  down  in  rains,  runs  in  abundancy 
from  the  rocks  of  the  mountains,  and  is  gathered 
in  the  Nile,  which  hath  its  fountain  there,  and 
below  its  fall  is  by  channels  led  over  all  Egypt, 
according  to  the  wife  conceptions  of  the  ancient 
Egyptians.  This  is  the  opinion  of  thofe  of  the 
Egyptians,  who  believe  themfelves  to  have  fome 
knowledge  of  nature,  of  which  fome  are  yet  to  be 
found  here,  defcended  from  the  Arabian  fchool. 
I  have  thought  this  account  worthy  of  relating, 
juft  as  I  received  it,  and  will  leave  others  to  fearch, 
whether  any  ufeful  information  can  be  got  hence, 
in  a  thing  beyond  the  plan  of  my  enquiries. 

I  SHALL  rather  purfue  that  which  comes  under 
my  own  fphere,  and  fpeak  of  vv^hat  Botanijts  may 
expedt  from  Egypt  towards  the  increafe  and  im- 
provement of  that  art.  Of  this  I  have  now  an  idea 
entirely  different  from  that  which  Alpinus  gave 

me 


LETTERS.  422 

me  in  Sweden.  This  Author  made  me  believe, 
that  I  Ihould  find  a  botanical  magazine  in  Egypt, 
but  this  is  not  the  cafe.  Egypt  has  very  few  indige- 
nous plants.  The  greatelt  part  of  thofe  to  be  feen 
here,  and  which  are  noticed  by  Alpinus,  are  cul- 
tivated by  art ;  for  this  reafon  we  find  here  a  Flora 
ceconomica,  which  is  without  doubt  one  of  the 
richeft  under  the  fun.  The  quantity  of  corn, 
wheat,  barley,  hearts  and  peas,  the  abundance  of 
rice,  the  fuperfluity  of  jiax,  which  this  country 
yearly  produceth,  are  evidences  of  this  -,  befides 
the  quantity  of  indigo,  fafflower,  dates,  cajfia,  and 
fenna,  with  which  the  country  enriches  its  poiTef- 
fors.  The  fituation  of  the  country  and  feafons  is 
fuch,  as  will  not  permit  many  fpontaneous  plants 
to  come  forth,  of  which  I  hope  to  give  you  my 
obfervations  more  circumilantially  another  time. 

I  HAVE  gathered  the  flowers  and  feeds  of  every 
thing  planted  here,  and  defcribsd  and  collefled 
every  thing  I  found  wild.  V7hat  pleafeth  me 
moil  of  any  thing  I  have  found  here  in  the  vege- 
table kingdom,  is,  the  knowledge  I  have  got  of 
the  Date-tree,  and  fcripture  fyccmore,  two  plants, 
which  alone  might  deferve  a  Botanift's  journey 
to  Egypt.  With  refpcdl  to  the  former,  1  have  with 
tolerable  eafe  collected  every  thing  that  was  ne- 
ceiTary  ;  but  the  latter  has  given  me  more  trouble. 
This  is  a  tree  which  in  its  fructification,  manner 
of  growing,  living  and  dying,  is  doubtlefs  one  of 
the  moft  Angular  in  the  vegetable  kingdom,  I 
have  opened,  not  hundreds,  but  thoufands  of  its 
figs  (Receptacula)  before  I  could  get  an  idea  of 
its  frud-ification  ;  I  have  however  at  length  acquir- 
ed fome  infight  with  refpe6l  to  it :  it  has  herma- 
phrodite and  male  flower  cups  diftind:  one  from 
the  other,  as  the  common  fig  ;  but  the  latter  dif- 
fer 


424  LETTERS, 

fer  much  from  this.  An  in  fed  called  Cynips  hath  its 
dwelling  and  works  in  the  male  flower  cups,  but 
whether  it  ever  enters  the  hermaphrodite  cups,  and 
whether  it  contributes  any  thing  towards  its  fecun-«. 
dation,  I  have  much  reafon  to  doubt  j  I  fhall  however 
make  fome  farther  enquiry  with  refped  to  this. 
It  is  alfo  fingular  in  this  plant,  that  the  male  cups 
are  ufeful,  and  may  be  eaten ;  but  the  herma* 
phrodites  ferve  for  no  ufe.^  juil  the  reverfe  of  the 
common  fig  :  I  fhall,  pleafe  God,  fend  a  cutting 
of  this  tree  to  Upfala  garden  next  year,  together 
with  plaintain,  Chrift's  thorn,  &c. 

I  WOULD  fpeak  of  the  Plantain-cree  or  Mufa,  the 
queen  of  plants,  but  it  commands  me  to  be  filent,  as 
it  has  had  the  good  fortune  to  be  completely  de- 
fcribcd  by  the  greateft  mafter.  1  will  however  men- 
tion an  odd  ftory,  which  is  taken  for  granted  by  the 
Egyptian  gardeners :  they  fay,  that  it  can  be  pro- 
duced by  planting  the  kernel  of  a  Date  in  the  root 
of  Colocajta,  and  that  this  was  its  firfl:  origin  ;  a 
fingular  hiftory  of  creation.  I  afked  them,  whe- 
ther they  ever  made  trial,  as  they  fo  obftinately 
defended  the  truth  of  it  •,  but  they  anfwered  no, 
and  that  it  was  not  worth  while,  as  the  plant 
grows  fo  freely  without  culture ;  et  fabulofa  jwvant. 
About  this  rime  we  daily  eat  ripe  Dates.  I  wifli 
it  were  pofiible  to  get  lome  bafl<;ets  of  them  x.0 
Upfala,  as  I  with  joy  could  fend  them.  In  Europe, 
we  feem  to  envy  the  feHcity  of  the  people  who  en- 
joy thefe  fruits.  I  confefs  they  are  good  to  tafte 
once  or  twice  -,  but  though  I  have  got  over  the  age 
when  fuch  things  pleafe  mod,  yet  I  would  gladly 
give  two  bufhels  of  Dates  for  half  a  bufhel  of  good 
Swedifh  apples,  and  am  perfuaded,  I  fhould  find 
thoufands  in  Egypt  ready  to  make  the  fame  ex- 
change.   Afpks  are  fcarce  here  ;  they  are  brought 

hither 


LETTERS.  425 

liither   from    mount    Sinai,    where    the  Grecian 
Monks  have  delightful  orchards  full  of  the  iineft 
apple  and  pear-trees,  whence  without  doubt  the 
iineft  varieties  we  have  in  Europe  were  firft  brought. 
According  to  ail  appearance,  I  fhall  remain 
in  Egypt  all  the  winter,  though  I  could  wifh  to 
leave  this  land  of  flavery  as  foon  as  poffible.     It 
is  very  difagreeable  to   travel   in  Egypt.     This 
country  is  governed    by   rebels   who  have    been 
flaves ;  it  may  therefore  be  eafily  imagined,  what 
order  and  police  is  kept  up  here  ;  a  Chriftian  can 
fcarcely  be  more  defpifed,  and  worfe  treated  in  any 
place  than  this.     1  think  no  affront  can  be  more 
grating,  than  that  a  Chrifiian  is  not  permitted  to 
ride  on  any  creature  but  an  afs  -,  and  to  encreafe 
the  affront,  muft  alight  from  his  afs  when  he  meets 
one,  who  was  perhaps  a  few  days  before  a  rob- 
ber, but  for  his  fldll  in  murdering,  is  made  com- 
mander in  a  place  over  a  number  of  rebellious 
foldiers.     This  is  our  cafe  daily,  and  to  avoid  all 
the  trouble  to  which  we  are  expofed,    we  muft  live 
as  it  were  in  a  kind  of  civil  arreft,  keeping  within 
our  chambers,    and  when  we  intend  to  go  out  in 
the  town    or   country,   commit    ourfelves  to  the 
hands  of  foldiers,  who  conduft  us  with  ftaffs  and 
pikes  through  their  villainous  brethren.     So  that 
to  travel  to  Cairo,  and  live  there  for  fome  time, 
is  like  doing  penance  for  crimes.    I  am  however, 
always  in  a  merry  humour,  and  the  lingular  life 
of  Cairo  gives  me  frequent  opportunities  for  va- 
rious pleafant  refle6lions,  which  pafs  the  time  away. 
It  is  poffible  I  may  this  winter,   have  an  op- 
portunity of  travelling  to  Upper  Egypt,  in  com- 
pany with  fome  Englifh  gentlemen,  who  are  ex- 
'    peded  hither.     If  it  happens,  I   am  fure  it  will 
amply  reward  my  labour. 

A  a  I  INTEND 


426  LETTERS. 

I  INTEND  next  fpring  to  fee  firfl:  Palseftine, 
then  Syria,  mount  Lebanon,  and  other  remarka* 
ble  places*,  I  hope  to  perform  this  tour  with  greater 
eafe,  in  a  country  where  the  Franks  are  more  re- 
garded, and  are  at  more  Hberty.  I  wifh  I  had  been 
empowered  to  purchafe  Arabian  manufcripts  for 
our  library,  as  the  moft  curious  are  to  be  had  here 
at  a  reafonable  rate.  Other  nations  have  got  e- 
nough  from  hence  ;  through  the  acquaintance  I 
have  made  with  fome  learned  Arabians,  I  have 
got  fome  on  Phyfic  and  Natural  Hiftory.  I 
could  with  much  eafe  ferve  our  Library  in  this  af- 
fair, if  I  were  defired  and  fupplied  wherewith  to 
do  It.     I  remain,  &c. 

A  List  of  the  Obfervations  which  Dr.  Hafielquift 
made,  and  had  already  finifhed,  and  were  by 
him  defigned  for  Profeflbr  Linnaeus. 

1.  Obfervations  and  remarks  on  the  Tape-worm 
in  Egypt. 

2.  The  caufe  of  the  Egyptians  difeajes  of  th& 
eyes. 

3.  The  defcription  of  a  kind  of  eruption  or 
fcab  at  the  flowing  of  the  Nile. 

4.  Of  the  balfam  of  Mecca,  its  country,  the 
tnethod  of  knowing  it,  with  its  ufes  in  the  Eaft, 
its  adulteration,  and  a  defcription  of  the  tree. 

5.  The  ufe  of  the  Mumies  for  phyfic  in  Egypt. 

6.  An  unexpefted  ufe  of  Gum  arabic,  when  it 
for  the  fpace  of  two  months  fupported  feveral 
thoufand  fouls. 

7.  The  preparation  of  Sal  armonaic  in  Egypt, 
fent  to  the  Royal  Academy  of  Sciences. 

8.  The  preparation  of  C^^^^/y?///^. 

9.  The  ufe  of  locufts  for  food  in  Egypt. 

10.  The 


LETTERS.  427 

10.  The  ufe  of  the  Date-tree  in  the  ceconomy 
©f  the  Egyptians. 

11.  How  Indigo  is  manufa<5tured  in  Egypt. 

12.  The  cultivation  of  Saffiower  in  Egypt. 

13.  The  cultivation  of  Rice  in  Egypt. 

14.  Mimofa{Arahis  Lebheck.)  Egyptian  Acacia 
defcribed,  and  fent  to  the  Royal  Academy  of 
Sciences  at  Upfala. 

15.  The  Natural  Hiftory  of  the  fcripture  fyca- 
more. 

17.  Two  new  fpecies  of  goofe-foot  (Chenopo- 
dium)  in  Egypt. 

18.  A  defer iption  of  the  Chrift  thorn  by  the. 
Arabs,  called  Nabca. 

19.  Chenna^  and  its  ufe  for  dying  yellow. 

21.  A  few  Stones  of  a  fingular  kind. 

22.  A  defcription  of  all  the  Petref anions  m  the 
Eg/'"tian  Pyramids. 

23.  The  Strata  of  the  earth  in  Egypt. 

25.  Two  fpecies  of  Bees  defcribed. 

26.  Pharaon^  an  animal  (Ichneumon)  which  goes 
in  the  houfes  like  cats,  and  every  thing  curious 
relating  to  it. 

27.  A  fpecies  oi  Rats,  which  have  a  head  like 
a  hare,  a  fnout  like  a  hog  ;  a  body  like  a  rat,  tail 
like  a  lion  •,  can  never  touch  the  ground  with  their 
fore  feet,  but  hop  like  graflioppers,  and  live  in 
the  mountains  between  Egypt  and  Arabia.  The 
whole  defcription  of  this  very  wonderful  creature 
is  fent  to  the  Royal  Academy  of  Sciences  at  Upfala. 

28.  Camelo  pardalis^  the  camel  deer,  which  has 
fcarce  been  feen  by  any  other  except  Bellonius, 
with  its  whole  defcription,  fent  to  the  Royal  Aca- 
demy of  Sciences. 

29.  A  Parrot^  the  prettied  of  its  kind. 

30.  A  little  Do tteril  from  Alexandria, 

A  a  2  32.  CafuariuS} 


428  LETTERS. 

31.  The  oftrich  and  its  tribe,  with  the  fnipes. 

32.  Cafuarins,3.  very  fmall  kind  of  oftrich  from 
Damiata. 

33.  A  Pigeon^  with  ftraighc  and  ered  feathers  on 
its  back. 

34.  A  curious  'Turtle-dove,  common  in  Egypt. 
38.  Four  forts  of  6'^r^^;^/j,  well  diftinguilhed  by 

their  Scuta  abdominalia  amongft  thefe  are  the 
Cerajles  alpini^  or  the  true  AJps  and  Jaculus  or  Ser- 
pens Evse,  which  have  never  been  defcribed  before. 

40.  Two  Lizards  defcribed  in  Egypt. 

41.  The  Lizard  Gecko,  which  through  the  feet 
emits  a  dangerous  poifon. 

43 .  The  defcription  of  the  fucking  fiOi  and  SaV' 
daigne. 

^5.  Twelve  Fijhes  from  the  Nile,  making  as 
many  new  genus's. 

56.  The  Dermejles  which  confumes  dates. 

57.  Cerambyx  niloticus.  The  Capricorn  beetle  of 
Egypt. 

58.  A  butterfly,  from  the  fubterranean  pafTages 
at  Alexandria. 

60.  Two  fingular  new  genus's  of  Infe3fs» 

75.  Fifteen  new  fpecies  of  Infe5ls. 

76.  The  Cancer  cur  for  of  Bellonius^  or  a  crab, 
which  runs  on  the  (hore. 

77.  The  Pifmires,  which  run  in  the  fand  near 
the  Egyptian  Pyramids. 

78.  The  little  Pi/mire,  which  keeps  in  the 
houfes  at  Cairo,  and  is  one  of  the  feven  plagues  of 
Pharaoh. 

79.  An  African  fccrpon. 

These  and  much  more  Mr.  Haflfelquifl:  has  al- 
ready amply  defcribed  in  Egypt. 

December, 


LETTERS.  429 

December,  29,  1750. 

THE  6th  of  laft  Odtober  was  one  of  my 
happieft  days,  as  I  on  that  day  received  both 
your  letters,  one  dated  the  27th  of  February,  the 
other  the  20th  of  April,  and  both  forwarded  to 
me  by  Conful  Rydelius. 

I  AT  the  fame  time  received  Counfellor  Carle- 
fbn's  bill  for  130  ducats  in  fpecie,  which  werefent 
me  to  the  Levant.  Thefe  were  agreeable  tidings, 
efpecially  as  the  Counfellor  was  pleafed  to  add, 
that  more  might  be  got.  None  in  Sweden  knows 
better  than  Mr.  Cariefon,  how  expenfive  it  is  to 
live  in  the  Levant,  even  for  thofe,  who  will  live 
moft  fparingly,  to  do  which  I  ufe  my  bed  endea- 
vours. My  long  flay  in  Egypt  has  coft  me  mo- 
ney enough;  but  I  fhould  never  have  dared  to 
tarry  here  fo  long,  if  I  had  not  found  other  means 
of  fupporting  myfelf,  than  with  the  public  money; 
an  affair  for  which  I  am  to  thank  fortune,  as  I  got 
by  it  an  opportunity  of  accomplifhing  my  pur- 
pofe,  which  was  to  inform  myfelf  of  the  Natural 
Hiitory  of  this  remarkable  country.  Perhaps  I 
fhould  never  have  come  to  Egypt,  if  I  had  not 
got  this  opportunity  ;  at  leafr,  I  could  not  have 
lived  here  all  the  feafons  of  the  year,  without  which 
little  could  have  been  done  here,  in  regard  to  the 
objefts  of  my  enquiries.  Next  to  your  kind  care, 
I  with  profound  refpecl  acknowledge  myfelf  in- 
debted to  the  moll  reverend  Archbilhop's,  the 
Faculties  of  Divinity  and  Philofophy,  Counfellor 
Carlefon's,  and  to  the  other  gentlemen's  bounty, 
who  contributed  to  defray  the  expences  of  this 
journey.  Wherefore  I  moft  earneflly  requell,  that 
you  will  pleafe  to  prefent  them  my  moil  humble 
thanks,  and  alTure  them,  that  I  fhall  have  no- 
thing more  at  heart,  than  to  fhow  to  the  world, 
A  a  3  than 


430  LETTERS, 

how  much  free  gifts  from  Swedes  can  contribute 
to  the  encreafe  of  Science. 

The  news  you  were  pleafed  to  favour  me  with, 
from  the  botanical  world,  were  as  many  refrefli- 
ments  to  me  in  a  country,  which  inftead  of  Eu- 
phorbus*s,  Mefues  and  Avicennas,  is  filled  with  a 
number  of  Fortune-tellers,  and  ftrolling  quacks, 
and  where,  inftead  of  the  Alexandrian  Library, 
one  fees  millions  of  murdering  fabres  and  pikes: 
a  country,  in  which  a  traveller  has  need  of  ail  the 
comfort  he  can  get.  1  lament  the  death  of  the 
Librarian  Mr.  Norrelius  •,  I  had  feveral  conferences 
with  this  learned  man  before  my  departure,  about 
the  animals  mentioned  in  the  fcriprures,  in  which 
he  had  great  knowledge  :  I  wifh  I  could  have  con- 
tinued them  to  him  after  my  return,  when  I  hope 
to  have  fome  knowledge  in  that  matter  as  a  Natu- 
ral Hiftorian.  The  great  age  of  Dodor  Celfius 
puts  me  in  fear,  that  I  Iball  likewife  lofe  the  ad- 
vantage I  wifh  to  have,  at  my  return,  to  fubmit  to  ' 
this  great  man's  judgment,  the  obfervations  I  have 
made  on  the  fcripture  plants. 

I  HOPE  that  my  defcriptions  of,  and  obfervations 
on,  the  Cornucopia  (horn  of  plenty  grafs)  Panor- 
fa  Coa  Cervus  Camelopardalis,  (camel  deer,)  Mus 
Jaculus  (jumping  moufe),  Sec  &c.  which  I  had 
the  honour  to  fend  you  from  time  to  time,  partly 
from  Smyrna,  partly  from  Egypt,  have  come 
fafe  to  hand.  The  Herpes  aleppina^  the  hiftory 
of  which  I  fenttothe  King's  Phyfician,  Dr.  Bseck, 
is  a  very  remarkable  endemical  difeafe  in  Aleppo, 
and  I  believe  not  yet  taken  notice  of  by  any  Phy- 
fician, The  attention,  which  I  know  the  Royal 
Academy  of  Sciences  paid  to  the  obfervations 
made  m  feveral  places  about  the  decreafe  of  the 
fca,  hath  encouraged  me  to  fend  my  opinion  of  it 

to 


LETTERS.  431 

to  Secretary  Elvius.  I  know  not  how  far  this  a- 
ble  Mathematician  is  inclined  to  this  fyftem  ;  but 
I  am  almofl  aflured,  that  thofe  who  have  feen  the 
proofs  of  the  decreafe  of  the  water,  which  I  have 
obferved  on  my  travels,  cannot  avoid  being  con- 
firmed in  this  remarkable  hypothecs,  which  you 
and  the  late  Profeflbr  Celfius  laid  before  the 
public  with  obfervations.  I  have  at  prefent  the 
honour  to  fend  you  a  colledion,  fmgular  in  its 
kind,  like  the  country  from  which  ir  is  fent.  It 
confills  of  Serpents  and  Liza'rds^  terrible  animals, 
and  the  proper  native  produ6lions  of  Egypt ; 
which  can  only  pleafe  thofe  who  ftudy  and  know 
Nature.  I  have  not  forgot  with  what  care  ycu  bid 
me  get  fome  knowledge  of  the  H^emorrhois^  Dipfas, 
AjpiSy  Seps^  &c.  of  the  ancients,  of  which  we  know 
nothing;  but  lament,  that  notwithftanding  allthe 
pains  I  took,  to  get  fome  information  about  thefe 
terrible  animals  of  the  ancients,  I  have  not  fuc- 
ceeded  with  more  than  Seps  and  Afpis,  which  ac- 
cording to  the  information  I  got,  are  one  and  the 
fame  ferpent.  The  account  is  this  :  on  the  ifland 
of  Cyprus,  there  is  a  ferpent  by  the  modern  Greeks 
called  ^(rTrrA.^  it  is  fhort,  feldom  above  a  foot  long, 
but  of  an  difproportioned  thicknefs,  fometimes  as 
thick  as  a  man's  arm.  The  poifon  of  this  is  the 
moft  terrible  of  any  known  in  the  Eaft.  When  a 
man  is  bit  by  it  he  falls  into  a  {lumber,  by  de- 
grees changed  into  profound  fleep,  which  within 
twenty  four  hours  becomes  eternal,  without  any 
violent  fymptoms  or  other  figns  of  death,  than 
that  the  pulfe  grows  weak  by  degrees,  and  the 
whole  body  becomes  of  a  blackifh  yellow  colour 
in  a  moment,  and  within  the  next  twenty  four 
hours,  rots  as  if  aiFeded  with  a  gangrene. 

A  a  4  Do 


432  LETTERS. 

Do  not  we  then  find  in  one  and  the  fame  ler- 
pent,  the  qualities  of  two  of  the  Ancients  ?  I  mean 
^fpis^  which  killed  fo  eafy  •,  and  Seps^  which  killed 
in  a  very  fhort  time,  with  the  like  terrible  fymp- 
toms,  and  effects  as  this  does  to  this  day. 

Have  not  the  Ancients,  who  never  gave  com- 
plete defer iptions  of  thofe  curiofities  in  Nature,  of 
which  they  might  have  left  us  any  account,  and  in 
which  the  name,  characters,  or  defcriptions  are  ei- 
ther omitted,  or  made  and  given  in  fuch  a  manner, 
as  rather  to  confound  the  Reader,  than  to  inftrufb 
him  ?  Have  they  not  perhaps,  I  fay,  given  two 
names  to  one  animal,  becaufe  it  had  tv/o  different 
qualities  ?  Examples  of  this  kind  are  not  wanting. 

It  is^  very  poffible,  that  the  Seps  of  Lucan  is 
the  fame  as  the  Afpis  of  Horace ;  both  have  in- 
formed us  of  their  effefts  -,  but  neither  of  them  has 
given  us  any  defcription.  I  therefore  conceive  it 
is  laudable  to  endeavour,  by  the  informations  which 
Natural  Hiftory  affords  us,  to  explain  their  mean- 
ing, as  they  do  not  always  exprefs  their  thoughts 
fo  clearly  as  to  be  comprehended  by  their  Readers. 

1  HAVE  the  honour  to  fend  three  defcriptions  oS 
the  ferpents  I  found  in  Egypt :  the  firft  is  the  viper 
of  Egypt.  Ifthishar.  been  completely  defcribed 
before,  the  viper  of  the  fhops  would  be  known-,  if 
not,  this  famous  viper  has  to  this  day  been  un- 
known. I  have  always  been  of  the  opinion  that  our 
common  viper  {Coluber  'vulgaris  Fn.  fuec)  was  the 
fame  with  the  viper  of  the  fhops,  but  I  changed 
my  opinion,  as  foon  as  I  faw  how  much  the  viper, 
from  which  the  Venetians  carry  pver  all  that  is  re- 
quired in  the  Hiops,  differs  in  number  of  fcutas 
and  fquamas,  head  and  tail,  and  appearance  from 
that  which  is  found  with  us.  The  true  vipera 
ffficinaiiSt  1  fuppofe,  is-  fcarcely  met  with  in  Italy, 

as 


LETTERS.  42S 

as  it  has  from  time  immemorial  been  carried  from 
Egypt  to  Venice,  from  whence  its  preparations  are 
fent  all  over  Europe. 

The  fecond  is  a  horned  viper  {Coluber  Cerafies.)  I 
have  found  two  ferpents  with  horns  in  Egypt  of 
different  genus's,  as  the  one  is  a  Inake, '  {Anguis) 
and  the  other  a  viper  {Coluber.)  As  different  as  they 
are  with  regard  to  their  genus,  fo  different  are 
they  alfo  with  refped:  to  their  horns  ;  thofe  of  the 
former,  are  two  large  teeth,  which  bore  through 
the  cranium,  fo  that  their  bafis  ferves  for  teeth, 
and  the  upper  pointed  parts  of  them  for'  horns  -, 
Whereas  thofe  of  the  latter  are  only  two  Iharp 
points  faftened  to  the  head. 

I  SHALL  not  abfolutely  determine  which  of 
thefe  Alpinus  means  by  the  name  of  Ccraftes,  of 
which  he  has  given  a  bad  figure,  and  a  worfe  de- 
fcription,  I  am  apt  to  believe,  that  he  has  them 
both  under  one  name,  as  they  both  have  horns.  It 
was  in  this  manner,  that  in  former  times  they 
thought  it  fufRcient  to  reprefent  natural  beings,  by 
giving  a  figure  without  any  defcription,  to  draw  in 
a  ftrikin^,  manner,  what  would  excite  the  curiolity 
of  the  common  people  ;  for  example,  a  ferpent 
with  horns ;  fo  that  no  attention  was  paid  to  the 
wife  inftitutes  of  nature,  before  our  Linnseus 
taught  us  to  open  our  eyes  in  beholding  and  dif- 
tinguifliing  her  with  clearnefs  and  precifion.  The 
third  is  the  before  mentioned  anguis  dentibus  mala" 
ribus  cranium  ■perforantibus. 

1  HAVE  found  aconfiderable  number  of  Lizards, 
the  other  branch  of  this  terrible  tribe ;  but  moil 
of  them  were  known  before,  except  fome  few 
fmall  ones,  which  I  found  in  the  burning  fand  in 
thedefart:  there  is  noplace  wherein  fome  kind  of 
Jiving  creature  is  not  appointed  to  dwell.     That 

which 


434  LETTER    S. 

which  I  have  the  honour  to  fend  I  have  preferred 
to  the  reft,  as  it  is  the  only  one  I  know,  of  which 
has  hitherto  been  ufed,  but  was  neverthelefs  un- 
known both  to  Naturalifts  and  Phyficians. 

This  Hzard  is  the  true  Scinky  which  is  found 
in  plenty  in  the  mountains  between  Arabia  and 
Egypt,  it  is  caught  in  great  numbers  by  the  Egyp- 
tian peafants,  dried  and  fold  to  the  Venetians  in 
Cairo,  who  export  a  large  quantity  of  it  over  to 
Europe.  I  had  this  alive,  as  well  as  every  thing 
elfe  which  I  have  hitherto  defcribed. 

I  HAVE  likewife  prefer ved  every  thing  hitherto 
by  me  defcribed,  partly  in  fpirits  of  wine,  partly 
ituffed,  with  which  I  intend  to  increafe  the  natu- 
ral colleftion  at  Upfala,  if  God  permits  me  to 
return  home.  At  the  beginning  of  next  year,  I 
intend  to  fend  fome  things  over  to  you,  viz.  The 
feeds  Behen  Nux^  CaJJla  Gopher,  and  feveral  others, 
amongft  the  reft  a  ftuffed  oftrich. 

Before  I  leave  Egypt,  I  likewife  intend  to 
fend  to  Upfala  garden  fome  trees,  as  Alhenna^ 
fcripture  Sycamore^  the  buckthorn^  of  which  the 
crown  of  Chrift  was  made,  CalTia  fiftula,  the  Plan- 
tain tree,  &c.  They  fiiall  be  fent  by  way  of  Leg- 
horn, to  Stocholm,  addreffed  to  Mr.  Grill.  If  it 
be  poffible,  I  (hall  Ihortly  make  ajourney  to  movint 
^inai.  I  have  already  been  on  the  way  to  it,  but 
was  kept  back  by  the  excurfions  of  the  Arabians. 
If  the  fcheme,  which  I  have  in  view,  turns  out 
well,  I  hope  to  attain  my  wifties  and  fee  this  fa- 
mous place  with  fafety. 

I  SHALL  after  that  begin  my  journey  early  in 
the  fpring  for  Palaeftine,  and  take  fuch  meafures, 
that  I  may  be  on  mount  Lebanon  in  the  moft  fuir- 
able  feafon  of  the  year.  After  that,  no  place  in 
the  Levant  remains,  which  I  want  to  fee,  except 

Con- 


LETTERS.  435 

Conftantinople,  from  which  city  I  could  wifh  to 
return  again  to  ir»y  native  country. 

Cairo,  February  i8,  1751. 

AT  the  fame  time,  I  have  the  honour  to  write 
to  you  by  way  of  Leghorn,  I  fend  addrefled 
to  Mr.  Grill,  a  fmall  colle6tion  of  natural  curiofi- 
ties,  of  which  I  have  here  enclofed  a  lift. 

Seeds  of 

CafTia  fiftula  from  lower  Egypt. 
Caffia,  (Arab.  Kefchta)  from  Arabia. 
Caffia,  (Ar.  Sopher)  from  Upper  Egypt. 
Nux  Behen  from  Upper  Egypt  and  Sinai. 
Cordia  Sebeften  from  Upper  Egypt. 
Rhamnus,  (Ar.  Nabk)from  Lower  Egypt. 
Cucumis  (Ar.  Abdellavi)  from  Cairo. 
Mimofa  nilotica.     The  true  Acacia. 
Lawfonia  fpinofa.     Alhenna. 
Preferved  Dates  in  two  large  veffels  covered  with 
leather. 

The  Male  flower  of  the  Date. 

The  Web  (Tela)  covering  the  bafis  of  the  leaves. 

Stones. 

Silex,  a  Flint  which  is  opake,  and  variegated 

from  the  deferts  of  Egypt. 
— —  femipellucid   with    a    variegated   ftrata.. 

Onyx  ? 
— -  femipellucid  and  unicolor  (of  one  colour) 

from  the  deferts  of  Arabia. 
Melon^  from  mount  Carmel. 
Argllla^  a  fandy  clay,  which  is  yearly  depofited 
by  the  Nile. 

Animals. 


43^  LETTERS. 

Animals. 
A  Vulture  with  a  naked  head,  defcribed. 
Oftracion,  a  fifh  with  a  blown  up  belly,  defcribed. 
Papilio  Sulianus,  the  Sultan  Butterfly. 

Mifcellaneous  Things. 

Vejfels  made  of  clay,  hardened  by  the  heat  of  the 
fun,  for  drinking  cold  liquors,  from  Mecca  and 
Cairo. 

Opobalfamum  genuinum,  or  true  balfam  of  Mecca 
Il>fs ;  with  Carolus  Linnseus  wrote  in  Arabian 
letters. 

They  are  partly  for  your  table,  and  partly  for 
your  Mufasum.  For  the  former  I  have  deftined 
two  vefTels  of  dates,  which  1  have  had  prepared 
in  fuch  a  manner  that  I  hope  they  will  keep.  And 
I  fhall  efteera  myfelf  happy,  if  you  think  the  other 
fmall  coile£lions  worthy  a  place  in  the  latter. 

1  HAVE  fent  as  many  feeds,  as  I  have  myfelf 
been  able  to  collefl  from  the  trees  themfelves.  I 
wifh  they  may  come  fafe,  for  I  fee,  that  it  is  al- 
mofl  impofTible  to  fend  trees  alive  from  Egypt  to 
Sweden.  I  have  had  all  the  rare  trees  here  taken 
up,  and  planted  in  pots,  in  hopes  of  fending  them 
to  you,  by  way  of  Marfeilles  or  Leghorn,  but 
they  die  notwithftanding  all  imaginable  care  ;  what 
would  then  become  of  them  during  fo  long  a  voy- 
age, their  freight  would  be  very  expenfive,for  water 
is  a  dear  commodity  when  bought  of  a  failor. 
The  v/onderful  fycamore,  the  fruftification  of 
which  has  puzzled  me  more  than  any  thing  f 
have  yet  ken  in  Nature.  This,  I  fay,  I  hope  will 
arrive  at  Upfala  ;  I  have  two  in  readinefs  that 
promife  well,  which  I  intend  to  fend  by  way  of 
Marfeilles,  addrefTed  to  Mr.  Grill. 

I  HAVE 


LETTERS.  437 

I  HAVE  the  honour  to  fend  you  a  defcrlption  of 
the  Egyptian  vulture^  a  fifh  of  the  genus  of  Oftra- 
cion  and  a  Molh  ;  the  firft  I  have  tranflated  into 
Swedifh  from  my  Latin  manufcript,  to  give  it  in- 
to the  Royal  Academy  of  Sciences.  If  you  will 
favour  Counfellor  Cariefon  with  the  defcription 
of  the  fifh,  he  will  perhaps,  as  a  curious  gentle- 
man, read  it  with  pleafure. 

I  HAVE  lately  been  employed  in  anatomizing  a 
-crocodile,  of  which  I  fhall  have  the  honour  to  give 
you  an  account. 

The  parts  of  the  Vifcera,  which  I  think  deferve 
the  greateft  attention  in  a  crocodile,  are  the  Veji- 
cul.'i  fellea  (Gall  bladder)  and  Pancreas.  The  wife 
laws  of  the  Creator,  which  Mt  concealed  in  ail  his 
works,  that  man  may  give  himfelf  the  trouble 
to  fearch  for  them,  appear  in  a  particular  manner 
in  the  parts  abovementioned. 

It  is  well  known,  that  the  crocodile  is  a  carnivo- 
rous voraclou-  an-mal;  and  I  believe  more  fo  than 
any  other  rapacious  animal  whatever  5  it  cannot 
chew,  but  muft  fwallow  every  thing  whole,  for 
though  it  can  open  its  jaws  extremely  wide,  yet 
it  cannot  move  them  fide  ways.  For  fuch  a  diet, 
and  this  manner  of  eating,  there  was  certainly  oc- 
cafion  for  ftrong  menflrua  to  promote  digeilion  : 
thefe  it  is  fupplied  with,  in  proportion  to  its  fize, 
more  amply  than  any  other  animal.  A  crocodile, 
which  I  opened,  three  foot  and  a  half  long,  had 
a  gall  bladder  as  big  as  a  hen's  egg,  which  con- 
tained three  ounces  of  gall,  thick,  of  a  fine  eme- 
rald green  colour,  and  more  bitter  than  any  thing 
I  have  yet  had  on  my  tongue.  The  Pancreas  was 
five  inches  long  and  four  broad,  and  all  its  plicse 
or  folds  v/ere  filled  with  a  yellowiOi  and  fomevvhat 
frothy  liquid.     Both  appeared  to  me  larger  than 

thofe 


438  LETTERS. 

thofe  in  an  ox,  but  with  refped  to  the  other  parts 
of  thefe  animals,  they  are  not  to  be  compared  to- 
gether. His  gut,  which  is  quite  rigid  or  ftifF,  and 
compofed  of  ftrong  thick  membranes,  is  fo  narrow, 
that  a  fmall  goofe-quill  can  fcarcely  enter  it ;  it  is 
alfo  remarkable,  that  the  Inteftinum  redum  is 
neareft  to  the  pylorus,  whereas  in  other  animals  it 
is  clofe  to  the  anus ;  the  crocodile's  redtum  is  filled 
with  excrements,  which  return  the  fame  way  they 
came  in,  the  narrow  gut  ferving  only  to  convey 
the  chyle. 

I  HAVE  now  had  the  pleafure  for  a  month  toge- 
ther of  feeing  the  method  in  which  the  Egyptians 
hatch  chickens  in  ovens.  Nothing  can  be  more 
amufing  to  behold,  or  eafy  to  perform  than  this 
operation,  which  the  ancient  Egyptians  learned 
from  the  crocodile  and  oftrich.  It  is  pleafant  e- 
nough  to  fee  an  oven  full  of  eggs,  from  whence 
hop  out  in  a  moment  many  thoufand  new  inhabi- 
tants into  our  world,  without  a  midwife,  and  I 
had  almoft  faid  without  a  mother  -,  flie  has  at  leaft 
no  concern  in  bringing  them  forth.  This  is  fo  eafy 
to  perform,  that  1  am  perfuaded,  every  old  wo- 
man with  us  might  do  it  in  her  ftove,  if  fhe  were 
told  it  was  poflible,  and  a  few  ounces  of  fuperfti- 
tion  was  added.  They  might  be  done  to  great 
advantage  with  us,  and  afford  in  the  large  towns 
plenty  of  fo  agreeable  a  difh,  as  broth  made  with 
fowls  is,  efpecially  if  made  in  the  Swedifh  manner. 
How  much  time  and  trouble  does  it  take  to  have 
6000  chickens  hatched  in  the  natural  way  ?  And 
thefe  come  forth  in  Egypt  in  a  month's  time,  with- 
out any  farther  trouble,  except  that  one  perfon 
takes  care  to  turn  the  eggs  and  heat  the  oven. 

The  tafte  of  the  fowls  fo  hatched,  does  not 
quite  equal  that  of  thofe  hatched  in  the  natural 

way  J 


LETTERS.  440 

way  *,  Art  would  gain  too  much  on  Nature,  could 
it  equal  her  in  her  perfedions.     It  is  reafonable, 
that  the  latter  (hould  always  retain  its  precedence. 
The  difference  is,  that  the  Egyptian  fowls  hatched 
in  an  oven  are   always  more  dry,  and  have  not 
the  juice,  which  gives  that  agreeable  tafte  to  thofe 
hatched  in  the  natural  way.    This  difference  may 
likewife  be  partly  owing  to  the  manner  in  which 
they  are  fed,  which,  conlidering  the  number  and 
cheapnefs  of  them  here,  cannot  be  fo  proper  as  in 
Europe.     The  Egyptian  fowls  are  fed,  as  indeed 
are  almofl  all  their  poultry,  with  beans,  which  are 
never  given  to  any  of  thefe  creatures  with  us,  as  we 
muft  feed  them  with  good  corn,  if  we  exped  a 
palatable  dilh. 

They  are  however  good  in  Egypt,  and  much 
better  than  I  imagined,  from  accounts  I  had  re- 
ceived of  them  in  Europe,  and  what  recommends 
them,  is,  the  reafonable  price,  which  is  fcarcely  to 
be  found  in  any  other  place.  I  have  (befides  what 
I  obferved  in  the  bringing  up  of  the  young  ones, 
myfelf )  received  a  defcription  of  it  from  Achmia, 
a  little  town  in  Upper  Egypt,  which  is  the  com- 
pleateft,  if  I  am  not  miftal<.en,  that  has  as  yet  been 
made  public.  I  Ihall  have  the  honour  to  commu- 
nicate it  to  you  at  a  proper  time. 

I  FORGOT  an  obfervation,  when  I  fpoke  of  the 
crocodile,  which  I  made  for  the  fervice  of  our  Di- 
vines. I  ferve  them  with  pleafure,  they  are  my 
patrons. 

Job  afks,  chap.  xli.  ver.  i.  Canft  thou  draw 
out  the  Leviathan  with  a  hook  ?  I  conclude,  he 
means  the  crocodile  by  that  which  happens  daily, 
and  without  doubt  happened  at  his  time  in  the 
river  Nile,  viz.  that  this  voracious  animal,  far 
from  being  drawn  up  with  a  hook,  bites  off,  and 

deftroys 


4iO  L    E    T    T    E    R    Si 

deftfoys  all  fifhing  tackle  of  this  kind,  which  are 
thrown  out  in  the  river.  I  found  in  one  that  I 
opened,  two  hooks  which  it  had  fwallowed,  one 
flicking  in  his  ftomach,  and  the  other  in  a  part  of 
the  thick  membrane  which  covers  his  palate. 

H  o  w  is  it  poflible,  that  Job  could  by  the 
Leviathan  mean  the.  Whale,  as  leveral  have 
explained  his  term,  and  as  has  lately  done  a 
French  Author,  who,  in  his  language,  wrote  the 
works  of  the  fix  days ;  when  we  refled  on  what 
Job  and  David  have  faid  of  the  works  of  the  Crea- 
tor ?  How,  I  fay,  could  he  fpeak  of  an  animal, 
which  never  was  feen  in  the  place  where  he  wrote, 
and  at  a  time  when  he  certainly  could  have  no 
hiftory  of  Greenland  and  Spitzbergen  ?  Befides, 
the  whole  defcription  of  Job  comes  much  nearer 
the  crocodile  than  the  whale,  if  we  confider,  that 
he  wrote  in  a  figurative  oriental  ftyle, 

I  INTEND  foon  to  depart  from  hence  for  Palse- 
ftine,  and  there  enjoy  the  fpring.  I  have  been  a 
fufficient  time  in  Egypt,  and  thank  God,  have 
difpofed  well  of  my  time  in  this  remarkable  coun- 
try, which  ought  to  be  the  dwelling  of  the  Gods, 
if  they  could  take  a  place  amongft  mortals ;  but 
is  condemned,  I  know  not  by  what  turn  of  for- 
tune, to  harbour  Egyptians.  I  beg  you  will  fa- 
vour me  with  a  few  lines,  which  I  could  get  in 
Conftantinople  at  our  Envoys,  Mr.  Celfing's 
houfe,  or  in  Smyrna,  at  Conful  Rydelius's.  I  have 
frequent  informations  from  the  latter,  of  the  moll 
material  afi^airs  which  happen  in  my  native  coun- 
try j  but  I  cannot  expe6t  any  thing  from  him  but 
politics  :  the  learned  are  of  more  confequence  to 
me,  and  of  thefe  I  exped  news  from  your  good- 
nefs.  I  (houid  be  in  particular  pleafed  to  hear  who 
fucceeded  Di\  Wallerius,  as  Profeflbr  extraordinary 

in 


LETTERS.  441 

in  the  Faculty  of  Phyficians,  after  he  was  appoint-  . 
ed  ProfefTor  of  Chemiftry.     1  conjedlure,  it  is  one 
of  my  companions. 

Mr.  Rydelius  is  alfo  very  curious,  and  what 
is  moft  material,  as  it  happens  fo  feldom,  his  at- 
tention is  to  Natural  Hiftory.  This  is  plaia 
from  by  his  collection  of  birds,  which  is  the  beil 
in  the  Levant,  and  will  in  a  few  days  be  encreaf- 
ed  with  divers  rare  birds  from  Ethiopia,  Nubia, 
and  Arabia  •,  thofe  I  find  here,  I  fliall  fend  alive  to 
Smyrna,  after  I  have  kept  them  a  long  time  v/ith 
me,  to  learn  and  obferve  their  nature  and  manner 
of  living,  and  defcribed  them.  Amongft  thefe  is 
the  beautiful  Guiney  hen^  which  I  have  got  from 
Abyflinia,  a  bird,  greatly  to  be  admired  for  the 
regular  manner  in  which  the  feathers  are  marked, 
■with  its  crefh  or  comb  on  the  head,  and  for  its 
Ihrill  creaking  voice,  which  is  fo  piercing,  that  I 
thought  I  felt  it  affeCling  me  in  my  very  brain,  ia 
the  fame  manner,  as  certain  harfh  notes  on  fome  in- 
ftruments,  (Irung  with  wire.  It  would  certainly  be 
admired  in  Europe,  if  it  had  not  the  misfortune, 
like  the  Peacock,  to  be  already  common,  efpecialiy 
in  Malta  and  France.  In  time,  fome  of  them  may 
come  to  Sweden,  if  fortune  willfavour  their  journey. 

Cyprus,  Augufc  8,  1757. 

I  HAVE  nov/  the  honour  to  write  from  Cy- 
prus, where  I  arrived  a  few  days  ago,  havino- 
travelled  through  Judea,  part  of  Arabia  Petrea^ 
Samaria,  Galilee  and  great  part  of  Syria. 

A  s  there  is  a  vefiel  going  this  day  for  Mar- 
feilles,  I  embrace  the  opportunity,  of  Ihewing  my 
duty  to  you,  by  writing  this  letter,  though  [  have 
no  time  to  tranfmit  any  of  my  obfervations.  I 
cannot,  however,  but  mention  the  Quail   of  the 

B  b  Ifrac-Utes; 


442  LETTERS: 

Ifraelites ;  this  is  a  new  fpecies  of  Tetrao,  which  I 
found  at  Jordan,  and  in  the  wildernefs  near  the 
mountains  of  Arabia  Petrsea.  This  QLiail,  very 
much  refembles  the  red  partridge,  but  is  not  larger 
than  a  turtle  dove.  I  expeft,  in  a  few  days,  to  get 
a  fcore  of  them  -alive,  which  were  promifed  me  by 
a  perfon  at  Jerufalem,  whither  the  Arabians  carry 
many  thoufands  to  fell  at  Whitfuntide. 

If  Natural  Hiftory  can  give  any  information  in 
the  interpretation  of  the  Bible,  this  bird  is  certainly 
the  fame  with  the  Quails  of  the  Ifraelites,  and  they 
alone  would  deferve  a  journey  to  Jordan  •,  for  my 
parr,  I  was  fo  pleafed  with  this  difcovery,  as  to 
forget  myfelf,  and  almoft  loft  my  Hfe,  before  I 
could  get  one  of  them  into  my  pofleffion. 

I  SHALL  write  more  particularly  and  fend  to  you 
feveral  obfervations  before  I  depart  from  Cyprus.  , 

Smyrna,  Auguft  29,  1751. 

FTER  I  had   returned   from    my  travels 

thro'  Egypt  and  Palseftine,  I  was  in  hopes 

to  write  to  you  by  this  time  from  Conftantinople, 
to  which  place  I  had  already  began  my  journey 
from  Syria  ;  but  Heaven,which  has  this  year  poured 
over  that  place  all  the  plagues,  which  its  wrath 
had  in  ftore,  has  for  a  time  prevented  my  defign 
of  vifiting  that  city. 

For  thefe  three  months  paft  there  has  been  a 
plague  in  Conftantinople,  which  fometimes  has 
taken  off  10  or  12,000  fouls  a  day  :  a  fire  which 
lafted  for  twenty  four  hours,  and  reduced  to  afties 
many  thoufand  houfes,  and  amongft  others,  the 
Guard-houfe  of  the  Janiffaries :  an  earthquake, 
attended  by  a  ftorni  of  hail,  which  deftroyed,  by 
common  report,  40,000  boats,  and  killed  a  num- 
ber 


LETTER    S.  443 

ber  of  the  rowers :  an  infurre6tion  amongft  the 
foldiers,  which  threatens  the  fubverfion  of  the  go- 
vernment, nor  is  famine  wanting  to  complete  their 
miferies.  Thefe  are  fufficient  reafons  to  deter 
a  traveller  from  going  thither ;  but  as  foon  as 
I  am  informed,  that  the  Almighty  has  withdrawn 
the  rod,  which  he  has  extended  over  that  city,  I 
purpofe  vifiting  it,  and  feeing  what  natural  curio- 
fities  this  famous  place,  which  is  lituated  between  , 
two  feas,  affords ;  and  afterwards,  pleafe  God,  I 
Ihall  think  of  returning  home. 

Inclosed,  I  have  the  honour  to  tranfmit  you 
a  defcriprion  of  the  little  Arabian  Quail,  which  I 
found  near  Jordan.  I  imagine,  this  bird  to  be 
new,  and  not  before  defcribed.  If  the  Wri- 
ters on  the  fcripture  can  prove,  that  Selaw  was  a 
bird,  they  may  be  afiured,  that  it  was  no  other 
than  this  5  but  I  have  reafon  to  beheve,  that  the 
food  in  queftion  of  the  Ifraelites,  was  neither  bird 
nor  fifh,  but  rather  infeds,  and  moft  probably  lo- 
cufts. 

It  is  not  in  the  leaft  probable,  that  Selaw  was 
the  flying  fifh ;  how  fhould  the  flying  fifli,  that 
fcarce  lifts  itfelf  a  few  yards  above  the  furface  of 
the  fea,  and  that  only  at  fun-fet,  come  up  into  Ara- 
bia Petrsa,  and  in  fuch  numbers,  as  to  fupply  the 
whole  camp  of  the  Ifraelites  ?  If  I  fliould  even  per- 
fuade  myfelf,  that  the  Mediteranean,  at  that  time, 
came  up  to  the  walls  of  Jericho,  Which  is  now 
three  days  journey  diftant,  yet  I  could  not  give 
credit  to  it. 

St.  John's  locufts,  thofe  fo  often  difputed  lo- 

cufl:s,    come  now  at  length  in  queftion.     I  have 

the  honour  to  fend  a  colledion  of  all  the  obferva- 

tions  I  could  get  relating  to  this  aff^air,  which  I  have 

B  b  2  digefted 


444  LETTER    S: 

digefted  in  order,  to  be  inierted  in  the  tranfadions 
of  the  Royal  Academy  of  Sciences. 

I  SHALL  leave  Writers  on  the  fcriptures  the  liber- 
ty to  make  what  they  pleafe  of  St.  John's  a>i^i^£g, 
calling  them  the  Gemmae  or  buds  of  different 
kinds  of  trees,  according  to  the  old  Grecian  Fa- 
therlfioderus  Felufiotai  the  fruit  of  the  Crab-tree, 
according  to  fome  Interpreters  -,  or  birds,  as  fome 
Calvinifts  imagined  ;  but  it  is  certain  that  this  hy- 
pothefis  is  fuch,  that  ^Eiianus,  Thucydides,  De- 
mofthenes  or  Anftotle,  could  never  know  their 
meaning.  I  am  of  opinion,  that  if  any  Interpreter 
of  the  fcriptures  fhoLild  afTert,  that  the  a,x^i7sg  of  St. 
John  are  not  locufts,  and  draw  this  conclufion, 
that  Si.  John  did  not  eat  locufts^  becaufe  they  have 
never  been  eaten  by  any  nation  -,  he  ought  to  make  a 
pilgrimage  to  thofe  places  v/here  they  are  eat  at 
this  day  j  I  am  perfuaded  he  would  not  long  re- 
main an  unbeliever  in  this  m.atter. 

Before  I  quit  this  fubje6l  of  locufts,  I  will  im- 
part to  you  fome  obfervations  I  have  made  on 
thefe  infeds,  which  for  feveral  years  have  afforded 
fo  much  matter  for  difpute  in  Europe,  that  it  is 
become  well  worth  our  attention  to  fet  this  affair 
in  a  clear  light. 

(i.)  The  gralliopper  or  locuft  is  not  formed  for 
travelling  over  the  fea ;  1  had  an  opportunity  of 
obferving  this  on  my  return  from  Cyprus  to 
Smyrna.  As  we  were  becalmed  for  fome  days  on 
the  coaft  of  Carmania,  we  daily  got  fome  graf- 
hoppers  on  board  from  the  continent,  and  I  then 
had  the  pleafure  of  feeing  what  miferable  iailors 
thefe  infedts  are.  The  locuft  has,  like  the  lark, 
a  quality  from  Nature,  that  it  it  cannot  fiy  far, 
but  muft  alight  almoft  as  foon  as  it  rifes.  If  they  in- 
tend, I  know  not  by  what  inftind,  to  fly  over  a  fea 

or 


LETTERS.  445 

or  river,  they  find  their  attempt  fucceed  no  better 
than  the  lark,  of  which  1  believe  I  have  given  you 
an  inftance  before,  which  I  obferved  on  the  Spanifh 
coaft,  where  I  fawhow  miferably  this  bird  perifhed, 
when  it  intended  to  come   on  board  us.     I  faw 
the  fame  happen  to  the  locufts,  and   for  one  that 
came   on   board,    lOO   were    certainly    drowned, 
though  we  were  but  a  piftol-fhot  from  the  fliore. 
But  better  proofs  of  this  are  yearly  feen  at  Smyrna, 
when  they  attempt  to  fly  acrofs  the  fea,  after  they 
over-run   the  country    near  it.     We   obferve  in 
the  months  of  May  and  June,  a  number  of  thefe 
infects   coming  from   the    fouth,    directing  their 
courfe  to  the   northern   fhore  -,   they  darken  the 
flcy  like  a  thick  cloud,  but  fcarcely  have  they  quit- 
ted the  fhore,   before  they,  who  a  moment  before 
ravaged  and  ruined  the  country,  cover  the  furface 
of  the  fea  with  their  dead  bodies,  which  occafions  a 
great  nuifance  to  the  Franks,  who  have  their  bal- 
conies near  the  harbour,  on  account  of  theftench 
which  proceeds  from  fuch  a  number  of  dead  infefts, 
as  they  are  by  the  winds  driven  clofe  to  the  very 
toufes.     By  what  inftindl  do  thefe  creatures  under- 
take this  dangerous  flight  ?    Is  it  not  the  wife  in- 
ftitution   of  the  Creator,  to   deftroy    a   dreadful 
plague  to  the  country  ?  Has  the  like  defl:ru6lion  to 
the  locufts  been  obferved  during    their  flight  to 
Europe  for  feveral  years  pafl:  ?  Could  they  not  by 
fright,  or  feme  other  method,  be  turned  from  their 
dreadful  courfe,  to  ftecr  for  fome  river,  and  by  that 
means  be  obliged  to  deftroy  themfelves,   as  they 
cannot  be  overcome  by  any  other  means? 

(2.)  But  if  locufts  cannot  fly  over  a  fea  of  any 

extent,  how  could  they  come  from  the  continent 

to  Cyprus,  which  is  entirely  deftroyed  by  Turks 

and   locufts  ?     Could   they    not    at    Iqall    come 

B  b  3  in 


446  L     E     T    T     E     R     S. 

in  veflels  from  the  continent  of  Syria,  having  Iain 
concealed  during  the  voyage  ?  But  how  then  came 
they  to  Roflagia,as  you  were  pleafed  tofliew  me  be- 
fore my  departure  from  Upfala  ?  Could  it  be  done 
in  any  other  manner  but  by  fhips  from  Dantzick, 
or  fome  place  adjacent,  where  they  infefted  the 
country  that  fummer  ?  Would  it  not  therefore  be 
proper,  that  all  mailers  of  fhips  fnould  be  obliged 
to  take  care,  left  they  bring  over  fuch  a  deftru6live 
vermin  ?  This  ought  to  be  done  in  the  fame  ftridl 
manner,  as  is  now  pradifed  to  prevent  the  plague 
from  fpreading. 

(3.)  I  know  of  no  one  Europe  who  has  made 
fufficient  obfervations,  relating  to  the  migration  of 
locufts  :  of  the  place  from  whence  they  firft  fet 
out,  and  of  the  courfe  they  take.  I  have  had  an 
opportunity  of  making  the  following  in  Afia  and 
Africa. 

The  locufts,  according  to  all  appearance,  feem 
to  be  directed  by  the  fame  natural  inftind:  as  the 
Alpine  rat  {Mus  Lemmus,  Lin.)  in  a  dired;  me- 
ridian line,  by  keeping  nearly  from  fouth  to 
north,  as  the  other  does  from  north  to  fouth, 
turnino-  very  little  either  to  the  call  or  weft  ;  they 
come  from  the  defarts  of  Arabia,  take  their  courfe 
over  thro'  PaL'eftine,  Syria,  Carmania,  Natolia,  go 
fometimes  through  Bythinia  by  Conftantinople, 
and  continue  their  journey  through  Poland,  &c. 
as  has  happened  in  thefe  latter  years.  They  never 
turn  from  their  courfe,  for  example,  to  the  weft, 
wherefore  Egypt  is  not  vifited  by  them,  though 
fo  near  their  ufual  track.  The  locufts  therefore, 
are  not  to  be  reckoned  amongft  this  country's 
plagues  in  our  times,  as  they  were  when  Mofes 
lived  thefe,  tho'  frogs,  lice,  cock-roaches,  gnats, 
and  all  the  vermin,  which  are  mentioned  amongft 

the 


LETTERS.  447 

the  plagues  of  Pharoah,  torment  the  inhabitants 
and  travellers  in  this  country  to  this  very  day.  Nei- 
ther do  they  turn  to  the  eaft,  for  I  never  heard  that 
Mefopotamia,  or  the  confines  of  the  Euphrates, 
were  ravaged  by  them.  None  but  thofe  countries 
of  Afia  which  1  mentioned,  viz.  Arabia,  Pateftine, 
Syria,  Carmania,  and  fometimes  the  fea  coafts  of 
Natolia,  are  infefted  with  them  yearly,  either  more 
or  lefs. 

I  DO  not  know  whether  the  fame  generation  of 
locufts  which  comes,  from  Arabia  can  come  to 
Europe,  or  whether  it  is  the  fecond  or  third  gene- 
ration. It  might  ealily  be  known,  if  obfervations 
were  made  in  two  different  places,  when  they  are 
at  either  of  them  ;  and  perhaps  that  would  be  to 
fome  purpofe,  as  it  might  furniih  means  todeflroy 
them,  or  at  lead,  leffen  their  number. 

The  inhabitants  of  Afia,  as  well  as  Europe, 
fometimes  take  the  field  againft  locufts  with  all 
the  dreadful  apparatus  of  war.  The  Bafhaw  of 
Tripoli  in  Syria,  fome  years  ago,  raifed  4000  fol- 
diers  againft  thefe  infeds,  and  ordered  thofe  to  be 
hanged  who  refufed  to  go.  Thus  a  miferable  in- 
fed,  can  put  in  motion  an  army  of  ftubborn  Turks, 
whom  often  an  Ottoman  Emperor  with  all  his 
power  cannot  oblige  to  go  farther  than  they  chufe. 

Smyrna,  Sept.  13,  1751? 

1  Shall  foon  have  the  honour  to  fend  you  a 
number  of  obfervations,  which  I  made  on  the 
Natural  Hiftory  of  the  Bible,  on  my  travels  in 
Palffiftine.  I  have  been  particularly  follicitous  to 
fearch  for  the  great  defigns  which  King  Solomon 
executed  here,  efpeciaily  thofe  that  contained  any 
of  the  vegetable  kingdom  •,  whether  I  could  find 
B  b  4  an^ 


LETTERS. 

any  traces  of  his  vineyards  or  gardens,  of  which 
he  fpeaks  in  the  Scriptures  ;  for  to  attempt  to  illu- 
ftrate  that  kind  of  Botany,  which  Solomon  un- 
derftood,  I  think  is  the  fame  as  to  look  for  the 
place  where  the  Tower  of  Babylon  ftood  ;  though 
it  cannot  be  denied,  but  that  Solomon  knew  much 
more  of  Natural  Hifiory,  confidering  the  time 
and  circiimftances  of  the  nation,  over  which  he 
reigned,  than  any  other  of  thofe  times.  But  to  leave 
his  Botany,  and  return  to  his  plantations ;  there  is 
fjOw  not  the  leaft  trace  remaining  of  them  ;  we 
can  judge  by  certain  circumfbances,  where  one  or 
other  of  his  pleafure  gardens  was  fituated ;  thus 
have  I  found  the  fituatJon  of  his  vineyard  in  En- 
gedda^  in  which  he  introduced  vines  from  Cyprus^ 
to  which  he  compares  his  beauty,  in  his  Canticles, 
ch.  i.  ver.  14.  Here  the  Arabs  have  vineyards  to 
this  day,  and  fell  the  wine  to  the  Chriftians  ;  but 
the  vines  are  now  fo  degenerated,  that  they  will 
not  produce  the  rich  Cyprus  wine.  It  was  not 
difficult  for  Solomon  to  get  vines  from  Cyprus 
and  plant  them,  but  Vv? hence  did  he  get  the 
Khenifh  vines,  which  he  planted  at  Hebron,  and 
which  grow  there  to  this  day,  affording  a  Rhe- 
nifh  wine,  equal  to  any,  that  Europe  produces, 
which  I,  and  all  the  Franks  who  came  to  Jerufa- 
lem,  took  be  real  Rhenilh  wine  ;  the  Latin  Monks, 
buy  from  the  Arabs  the  fmall  quantity,  which  they 
make  yearly  at  Hebron.  This  kind  of  wine  does 
not  grow  in  any  place  of  the  Eaft,  nor  in  the 
Archipelago;  perhaps  this  kind  of  grape  has  al- 
ways grown  w^ild  in  Pateftine,  and  was  by  Solo- 
mon tranfplanted  into  his  garden.  Might  not  t^e 
Europeans  have  got  the  firft  vines  from  hence, 
which  they  planted  on  the  Rhine  .?  This  feems 
more  probable,  than  that  Solomon  fhould  have  got 

his 


LETTERS.  449 

his  from  Europe;  it  is  alfo  pofTible,  that  both  have 
the  fame  qualities,  though  the  vines  are  of  different 
origins. 

Smyrna,  Sept.  22,  1751.^ 

IN  my  laft,  of  the  13th  inftant,  1  promifed  to 
anfwer  the  queftions,  you  were  pleafed  to  pro- 
pofe  to  me,  in  your  letter  dated  the  i  ith  of  Dec. 
1750.  1  fliall  now  fulfil  my  duty,  having  an- 
fwered  fome  in  my  preceding  letters. 

I  HAD  no  opportunity  of  feeing  the  Gall-nuts  of 
the  Tamarilk ;  I  have,  however,  feen  a  little 
Jphis,  that  builds  a  neft  between  its  leaves,  but 
this  I  cannot  take  to  be  a  Gall. 

Calaf,  is  a  little  Willow,  which  never  grows  to  a 
large  tree  ;  it  has  a  ftrait  trunk,  with  a  fmooth 
oval  lancet-lhaped  leaf,  deeply  fawed  on  the  edges. 
No  tree  in  Egypt  is  more  famous  amongft  the 
inhabitants,  on  account  of  the  water  that  is  diftilled 
in  the  fpring  from  its  blolToms,  which  is  much 
more  ufed  as  a  family  medicine  by  the  Egyptians, 
than  treacle  by  our  peafants.  They  are  fcarcely 
afflicted  with  any  difeafe,  but  they  ufe  the  water 
of  Calaf.  There  are  Apothecaries  in  Cairo,  whofe 
chief,  and  almoftonly  employment,  is  to  fell  Calaf; 
.  for  thus  they  likewife  call  the  water.  It  is  cooling, 
promotes  perfpiration,  and  is  fomewhat  cordial,  it 
therefore  ferves  in  the  continual  fevers,  which  are 
fo  common  in  Egypt,  during  the  fummer  feafons. 
I  fuppofe  it  to  approach  neareft  in  quality  to  the 
waters  that  are  in  Europe  diftilled  from  the  blof- 
foms  of  Cherries,  Limes,  and  Acacias. 

I  HAVE  got  enough  of  the  fruit  of  Bahohah, 
though  I  could  neither  fee  the  plant  or  flower,  as 
it  only  grows  in  the  remoteft  parts  of  Upper 
Egypt,  where  it  has  been  introduced  from  the 
weftern  parts  of  Africa. 

I  HERB 


450  LETTERS. 

I  HERE  fend  inclofed,  the  flowers  of  ^fchyno- 
mene  Sefban  (baltard  fenfitive  plant)  which  is  ufed 
for  hedges  round  plantations,  and  affords  an  a- 
greeable  profped. 

Jbfus^  is  a  CafTia.  Sopher^  is  likewife  a  CafTia, 
of  which  I  tranfmitted  feeds,  and  in  my  laft  letter 
the  defcription,  together  with  that  of  the  wild 
Marjoram  or  ILatarhendi  of  Alpinus. 

Kali  III,  of  Alpinus,  muft  be  a  little  fig  mari- 
gold (Mefembryenthemum)  common  in  Egypt; 
but  it  is  fomewhat  difficult  to  clear  up  the  names 
of  Alpinus,  efpecially  all  his  Kali.  1  tranfmitted 
the  feeds  of  the  Alhenna,  amongft  my  colledion 
of  laft  winter,  and  the  feeds  of  the  Plantain-tree, 
were  in  my  laft  letter ;  and  the  Gall  fly  of  the 
Scripture  Sycamore,  in  my  laft  but  one.  I  have 
the  jumping  Moufe,  in  fpirits  of  wine,  and  all  the 
Egyptian  fifties,  of  which  I  have  fome  preferved 
and  laid  on  paper,  in  the  manner  you  taught  me. 

Mofes  and  Lichens  are  fca/ce  enough,  though 
not  entirely  wanting  in  the  Eaft.  The  Pyramids^ 
the  oldeft  buildings  in  the  world,  have  no  Lichenes 
cruftacei^  which  other  wife  are  the  common  marks 
of  age  j  neither  can  they  have  them,  for  perhaps 
there  never  fell  a  drop  of  rain  on  them,  without 
which,  this  kind  of  vegetable  does  not  thrive. 
All  the  kinds  are  to  be  found  on  the  old  walls  of 
Jerufalem ;  and  out  of  the  wall  at  Solomon's 
Well,  there  grows  a  little  mofs ;  may  not  this  be 
bis  Hyfop  ?  It  is,  at  leaft,  as  little,  as  the  cedar  is 
large,  and  therefore  the  other  extremity. 

It  is  not  long  fmce  I  fent  you  the  defcription  of 
the  Egyptian  Water  lily  (Nymphaeaj. 

I  HAVE  defcribed  the  wonderful  little  Crab,  the 
Cancer  curfor  ;  but  who  can  conceive,  why  this  lit- 
tle animal  comes  up  in  fuch  large  numbers  out  of  the 

fea 


L    E    T    T    E    R    Sk  451 

fea  at  fun-fee,  and  runs  on  the  fhore  •,  and  why  the 
Dolphins  and  Flying-fiJh^2Lt  the  fame  time^hftthem-- 
fel^^es  above  the  furface  of  the  fea  ?  It  is  probable, 
that  each  of  them  has  feme  urgent  reafon,  which, 
at  prefentj  we  do  not  comprehend.  As  I  was 
travelhng  from  Tyre  to  Sidon,  I  followed  the 
fea-jfhore  for  two  hours  about  fun-fet,  and  had 
conftantly  the  pleafure  to  fee  this  htdecrab  run  by 
hundreds  to  and  from  the  fea.  I  caught  feveral, 
in  order  to  fee  whether  I  could  find  any  thing 
about  them  to  carry  food,  but  found  nothing. 
No  creature  can  run  fo  fall:,  in  proportion,  as 
this.  The  moment  one  fees  it  two  or  three  yards 
from  the  fea,  you  obferve  it  to  turn  back  and  re- 
turn into  it. 

You  were  pleafed  to  afk,  how  do  the  plants  fub- 
fifb  in  Egypt  half  a  year  without  rain  ?  This  feems 
very  odd  to  us  in  Europe,  where  we  are  ufed  more 
to  wet  than  dry  weather  j  but  what  fhall  one 
think,  when  I  fay,  that  there  are  plants  in  Egypt, 
which  have  lived  600  years,  and  perhaps  have  not 
got  6  ounces  of  rain,  in  all  that  time,  for  nourifh- 
ment  ;  this  may  with  reafon  be  faid  of  the  old  Sy- 
camores round  Cairo  and  in  Upper  Egypt,  where 
perhaps,  every  fecond  or  third  year,  fall  ten  drops 
of  rain.  But  if  the  Egyptian  plants  want  rain, 
they  do  not  therefore  want  water.  The  Nile, 
the  wonderful  Nile,  fingular  in  its  kind,  affords 
that,  which  heaven  denied  them.  The  coun- 
try of  Egypt  is  a  river  from  the  beginning  of  Au- 
guft  to  the  latter  end  of  Odober.  A  traveller  com- 
ing to  Egypt  at  this  time,  and  being  unacquainted 
with  the  true  reafon  for  the  overfiowing  of  the 
water,  would  immediately  conhder  it  as  a  mira- 
cle in  Nature.  He  would  imagine  he  beheld  a  fea  j 
producing    vegetables    very   different   frcm  Sar- 

gazo. 


452  LETTERS. 

gazo,  Fucus's  Reeds,  Rulhes,  &c.  He  would 
imagine  he  beheld,  fpringing  from  the  bottom  of  . 
the  fea.  Sycamores,  Buckthorn,  Acacia,  Caiiias, 
Willows,  and  Tamarifks,  which  form  fmall  woods 
or  groves,  above  the  furface  of  the  water.  This  is 
the  genuine  appearance  of  Egypt,  whilft  it  is  o- 
verflown.  Therefore  the  Egyptian  plants,  which 
confift  chiefly  of  evergreen  trees,  are  in  no  want  of 
water,  and  art  fupplies  thofe  which  are  deprived  of 
this  benefit  of  Nature  ;  for  the  Egyptians  are  very 
expert  in  hydraulics,  and  take  great  care  to  fupply 
their  gardens  with  water. 

From  this  time,  to  the  beginning  of  April,  ano- 
ther feafon  fucceeds,  the  water  is  dried  away,   and 
the  whole  country  is  covered  with  flime  or  mud, 
depofited  by  the  water,  which  makes  Egypt  a  fruit- 
country.     The  hufbandman  then   fows  his  corn 
with  lefs  fweat,   and  more  affurance  of  a  plentiful 
crop,  than  the  Europeans  ;  this  work  is  done  in  the 
months  of  O<5tober  and  November-,   then  come 
forth  the  fpontaneous  plants  of  Egypt,  which  are 
very  few,  fome  indeed  come  up  with  the  corn,  but 
their  feeds  mull  have  been  tranfported  thither  by  the 
birds,  as  they  are  European.    The  trees  then  caft 
their  leaves,  that  is  to  fay,  in  the  latter  end  of  De- 
cember and  beginning  of  January,  having  young 
leaves  ready,  before  all   the  old  ones  are  fallen 
off-,  and,  to  forward  this  operation  of  Nature,  few 
of  the  trees  have  buds  (gemmae)  -,  the  Sycamore 
and  Willows  indeed  have  fome,  but  with  few  and 
quite  loofe  ilipulse.     Nature  did  not  imagine  buds 
fo  neceffary  in  the  fouthern  as  in  the  northern  coun- 
tries i  this   occafions  a  great  difference   between 
them. 

The  Plantain  and  Date  tree,  the  riches  and  or- 
nament of  Egypt,  alfo  at  this  time  prepare   to 

brins 


LETTERS.  453 

bring  forth  their  valuable  fruit.  After  the  latter 
has  thrown  off  the  lowermofl;  old  leaves,  the  new 
ones  fhoot  out  from  the  top,  and  at  the  fame  time 
the  new  Spatha  come  forth  in  the  months  of  De- 
cember and  January ;  at  this  period  alfo,  the 
branches  of  flowers  of  the  Plantain-tree  appear. 

This  feafon  concludes  with  the  harveft,  in  the 
month  of  April,  and  no  figns  are  afterwards  to  be 
feen  of  Egypt's  having  ftood  under  water  the  pre- 
ceding year. 

Egypt  is  not  abfolutely  deftitute  of  rain  in  the 
months  of  November,  December,  January,  Feb- 
ruary and  March ;  but  it  muft  be  particularly  ob- 
ferved,  that  this  does  not  extend  farther  than  to 
the  fide  nearer  the  Mediterranean  fea;  where  it 
rains  fo  hard  fome  years,  efpecially  ac  Alexandria, 
Rofetta  and  Damiata,  as    to  occafion  very  cold 
weather,  to  the  great  inconvenience  of  the  inhabi- 
^  tants ;  it  fometimes  happens  at  Cairo,   about  this 
time,  that  a  fcatcered  cloud  lets  fall  a  few  drops  of 
rain  in  paiTing.     This  has  been  fcarcely  obferved 
by  any  traveller,   therefore  they  have  no  true  idea 
of  the  Egyptian  climate  in  Europe  j  fome  faying 
it  rains  there,  others  aiTerting  the  contrary,  and 
both  are  in  the  right.     After  harveft,  and  with 
the  month  of  May,  begins  a  dreadful  feafon  in. 
Egypt,  a  fummer,  which  makes  the  earth  refem- 
ble,  in  fome  refpe6t,  that  of  Norland  in  the  months 
of  January  and  February.      Then  the  earth  ap- 
pears full  of  fiffures,  and,  by  the  excelTive  heat,  is 
brought  into  the  fame  fituation,  that  the  feverefb 
frofts  occafion  with  us,  but  with  this  difference, 
that  the  ruggedneis  of  our  frozen  earth,  is  concealed 
by  an  ufefui  and  not  difagreeable  fnow,  whereas  the 
parched  earth  of  Egypt  has  no  veil  to  hide  its 

oiilery. 


454  LETTER    S. 

mifery,  the  fight   of  which  every  mortal  dreads 
to  behold. 

Egypt,  two  months  before,  well  deferved  a 
journey  from  the  north  and  fouth  pole.  According 
to  the  accounts  of  fome  travellers,  with  whom  I 
have  converfed  on  the  fubjedt,  and  who  had  feen 
both  the  Indies,  all  Europe,  the  greateft  part  of 
Afia,  and  the  acceffible  parts  of  Africa,  there  is 
not  fuch  a  glorious  profpe6t  to  be  feen  under  the 
fun,  as  an  Egyptian  field,  when  the  earth  is  in  its 
verdure,  and  efpecially  if  it  can  be  beheld  at  that 
fame  time  and  from  the  fame  place  which  I  faw  it, 
namely,  the  latter  part  of  December,  from  the 
top  of  the  higheft  Pyramid,  where  I  was  in  com- 
pany with  fome  Englifhmen,  feveral  of  whom  had 
travelled  in  the  Eaft,  others  in  the  Weft  Indies,  in 
Barbary,  and  in  Europe. 

Egypt,  which  is  fo  agreeable  in  our  winter,  is, 
thus,  to  the  higheft  degree,  horrible  in  our  fummer. 
The  birds  defert  it,  and  fly  to  more  northern 
climes.  The  vegetable  kingdom  is  in  no  better 
fituation.  The  fpontaneous  plants  are  withered,  and 
thofe  they  cultivate  are  removed;  the  Reft-harrow 
and  Succory  alone  remain  ;  of  the  former,  thefe 
flower  in  the  ftrongeft  heat,  and  amongft  the  lat- 
ter, the  banks  of  the  Nile  are  covered  with  all  kinds 
of  Melons,  Cucumbers,  and  oily  grain  (Sefamum) 
which  ripens  in  the  fields,  where  it  is  fown  af- 
ter the  corn  ;  and  this,  I  prefume,  is  the  reafon, 
that  fome  travellers  fpeak  of  two  and  three  har- 
vefts  in  Egypt. 

All  Egypt  however  does  not  fufter  alike  from 
the  heat  of  the  fummer.  The  rifing  grounds  about 
Rofetta  and  Damiata  are  to  be  excepted,  being 
at  this  time  covered  with  Rice,  which  is  planted  in 
May,  and  harvefted  in  Odober,  to  effeft  which, 

the 


LETTERS.  455 

the  water  is  carried  with  much  labour  from  the 
Nile.  The  inhabitants  of  thefe  places  have  there- 
fore the  pleafure  of  beholding  green  fields,  when 
the  Egyptians  fee  nothing  but  a  parched  earth  ;  but 
they  pay  dear  for  their  pleafure,  for  all  the  plagues 
of  Pharaoh,  frogs,  flies,  gnats,  &c.  which  delight 
in  putrid  water  and  a  moid  earth,  make  their 
dwellings  almoft  uninhabitable. 

It  is  in  this  exceflive  hot  weather,  that  we  mufl 
admire  the  wifdom  of  God,  who  ordered  that  a 
quantity  of  Dew  lliould  fall  in  the  evenings  and 
mornings,  and  prevent  the  total  deflruclion  of  the 
country. 

This  Dew  is  particularly  ferviceable  to  the  trees, 
which  would  orherwife  never  be  able  to  refift  this 
heat ;  but  with  this  afliftance  they  thrive  well, 
bloffom  and  ripen  their  fruit.  Therefore,  the 
upper  parts  of  the  Egyptian  trees,  at  one  time  of 
the  year,  do  the  office  of  roots,  attrading  nouriih- 
ment  by  their  abforbent  vefTels,  the  leaves,  from 
the  moift  air;  which  the  root,  at  other  feafons  of 
the  year,  draws  from  the  damp  earth.  It  is  far- 
ther to  be  obferved,  that  the  dew  falls  at  the  fame 
time,  that  the  heavy  clouds  move  from  the  north 
to  fouth  ;  and  by  the  number  of  thefe,  the 
Egyptians  judge  of  the  future  affluence  of  the 
Nile.  Thefe  darken  the  Heavens  in  the  morning  ; 
but  in  the  day  it  clears  up,  and  the  nights  are  as 
refplendent.  v/ith  as  many  liars,  in  the  midft  of 
fummer,  as  the  lighted  and  cleareft  winter  nights 
in  the  north  -,  this  appearance  of  the  ikies  in  Egypt 
never  changes,  and  has  been,  undoubtedly,  a 
great  inducement  for  the  ancient  Egyptians,  and 
afterwards  for  the  Egyptian  Arabs,  to  lludy  aflro- 
nomy.  I  am  furprized,  that  none  of  the  European 
Academies  of  Sciences,  have  ever  thought  of  fup- 

poriing 


'4s6  LETTERS. 

porting  an  Aftronomer  in  Cairo,  which  is  favoured 
with  the  fereneft  horizon,  a  conftant  mild  climate 
and  clear  fky ;  and  thefc  would,  I  imagine,  aflford 
opportunities  for  eafy  and  conftant  obfervations.  He 
might,  perhaps,  have  fome  trouble  from  the  inha- 
bitants, on  account  of  their  fuperftition,  but  even 
this,  he  might  foon  get  over.  He  would  find 
learned  Arabs,  powerful  men,  who  love  and  ftudy 
Aftronomy  in  their  manner,  whofe  protedion 
would  defend  him  from  the  people,  and  the 
-expence  would  not  be  very  great. 


The     E    N    D.