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UNIVERSITY OF 
ILLHNOIS LIBRARY 
AT URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 
NATURAL HIST. SURVEY 


Digitized by the Internet Archive 
in 2011 with funding from 
University of Illinois Urbana-Champaign 


http://www.archive.org/details/windbreaksforill02davi 


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oS WATURAL HISTORY. SURVEY 


APR 03 1999 


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HLEINOTS 
NATURAL HISTORY 
SURVEY 
In Cooperation With 
University of Illinois + College of 
Agriculture - Agricultural Experiment 
Station and Extension Service in 
Agriculture and Home Economics 


STATE OF ILLINOIS 
William G. Stratton, Governor 


DEPARTMENT OF REGISTRATION AND EDUCATION 
Vera M. Binks, Director 


WINDBREAKS 
for Illineis Farmstead 


J. E. DAVIS 


Printed by Authority of the State of Illinois 


NATURAL HISTORY SURVEY DIVISION 
Harlow B. Mills, Chief 


Circular 38 
(Fifth Printing, With Revisions by L. B. Culver) 
Urbana February 1954 


CONSULTANT IN HERPETOLOGY: 


CONSULTANT IN PARASITOLOGY: 


STATE OF 


ILLINOIS 


WILLIAM G. STRATTON, Governor 


DEPARTMENT OF REGISTRATION AND EDUCATION 
VERA M. Binks, Director 


BOARD OF NATURAL RESOURCES AND CONSERVATION 
VERA M. BINKs, Chairman 


A. E. Emerson, Ph.D., Biology 
L. H. TirFany, Ph.D., Forestry 


WALTER H. NEWHOUSE, Ph. D.,Geology 
RoGER ApAMs, Ph.D., D.Sc., Chemistry 


Rospert H. ANDERSON, B.S.C.E., Engineering 
Lioyvp Morey, B.A., B.Mus., C.P.A., LL.D., President of the University of Illinois 
DELYTE W. Morris, Ph.D., President of Southern Illinois University 


NATURAL HISTORY SURVEY DIVISION 
Urbana, Illinois 


SCIENTIFIC AND TECHNICAL STAFF 
HARLOW B. MILLS, Ph.D., Chief 
BessiE B. East, M.S., Assistant to the Chief 


Section of Economic Entomology 


GEORGE C. DECKER, Ph.D., Entomologist and 
Head 

J. H. Biccrer, M.S., Entomologist 

L. L. EnGuiisu, Ph.D., Entomologist 

S. C. CHANDLER, B.S., Associate Entomologist 

Wiis N. Bruce, Ph.D., Associate Entomologist 

Norman C. GANNON, Ph.D., Associate Ento- 
mologist 

Joun M. Wricut, Ph.D., Associate Entomologist 

PAUL SuRANYI, Ph.D., Assistant Entomologist 

H. B. Petty, M.A., Extension Specialist in 
Entomology 

STEVENSON Moore, III, Ph.D., Extension 
Specialist in Entomology 

SuE E. WATKINS, Technical Assistant 


Section of Faunistic Surveys and Insect 


Identification 


H. He Ross: Ph.D., Systematic Entomologist and 
Hea 

Mitton W. SANDERSON, Ph.D., Associate Tax- 
onomist 

Lewis J. STANNARD, JR., Ph.D., Assistant Tax- 
onomist 

Puitie W. SMITH, Ph.D., Assistant Taxonomist 

Leonora K. Gioyp, M.S., Laboratory Assistant 

VirGIniA A. WHIPPLE, Technical Assistant 


Section of Game Research and Management 


T. G. Scott, Ph.D., Game Specialist and Head 
RatpnH E. YEATTER, Ph.D., Game Specialist 
F. C. BELLROSE, B.S., Associate Game Specialist 
H. C. Hanson, M.S., Assistant Game Specialist 
J. S. JorDAN, Ph.D., Assistant Game Technician 
Jor E. Brooks, B.A., Technical Assistant 
FRANCES D. ROBBINS, B.A., Technical Assistant 
WILLIAM NuEss, Field Assistant 
LysLeE R. Pretscn, M.F., Project Leadert 
WILLIAM B. ROBERTSON, JR., M.S., Project 
Leadert 


Technical Library 


RutH Warrick, B.S.L.S., Technical Librarian 
CATHERINE V. EYLER, A.B., Assistant Technical 
Librarian 


nois. 


Veterinary Research, University of Illinois. 


Section of Applied Botany and Plant 


Pathology 


LEO R. TEHON, Ph.D., Botanist and Head 

J. CEpric CARTER, Ph.D., Plant Pathologist 

J. L. ForsBERG, Ph.D., Associate Plant Pathologist 

G. H. BoEwe, M.S., Assistant Plant Pathologist 

R. J. Campana, Ph.D., Assistant Plant Pathol- 
ogist 

E. B. Himetick, M.S., Assistant Plant Pathologist 

B. M. ZucKERMAN, M.S., Assistant Plant Pa- 
thologist 

RosBert A. Evers, Ph.D., Assistant Botanist 

E. A. Curt, Ph.D., Special Research Assistant 

RoveniA F. Fitz-GERALD, B.A., Technical 
Assistant 


Section of Aquatic Biology 


GEORGE W. BENNETT, Ph.D., Aquatic Biologist 
and Head 

WILLIAM C. STARRETT, Ph.D., Associate Aquatic 
Biologist 

DonaLp F. HANSEN, Ph.D., Assistant Aquatic 
Biologist 

R. W. Larimore, Ph.D., Assistant Aquatic Bi- 
ologist 

Rosert D. Crompton, Field Assistant 

LEONARD DurRHAM, M.S., Technical Assistant* 

P. L. McNen, B.S., Technical Assistant* 


Section of Publications and Public Relations 


James S. Ayars, B.S., Technical Editor and Head 

BLANCHE P. YounG, B.A., Assistant Technical 
Editor 

WILLIAM E. CLARK, Assistant Technical Photog- 
rapher 

James W. CurFMAN, B.S., Technical Assistant 


Section of Forestry 


Witter N. WANDELL, M.F., Foresler and Head 

LAWSON B. CuLVER, B.S., Associate in Forestry 
Extension 

Ross J. Miter, M.S., Field Ecologist 

Harriet W. Smitu, M.A., Technical Assistant 


Hosart M. SmitH, Ph.D., Associate Professor of Zoology, University of Illi- 


Norman D. LeEvingE, Ph.D., Professor of Veterinary Parasitology and of 


*Employed by the Illinois Department of Conservation and assigned to the Natural History Survey for 


administrative and technical supervision. 


+Employed by the Illinois Department of Conservation under terms of the Federal Aid in Wildlife Res- 
toration Act and assigned to the Natural History Survey for administrative and technical supervision. 


This paper is a contribution from the Section of Forestry. 


(84896—5 M—1-54) 


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JL TEEDERS DS) UTS e oS es a ey ree or er eee eT ee ee eee 29 
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Colorado (Blue) Spruce................... STN PA he wee yl eed et to OTR 30 
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ASP CENCE CEO ATE 57 iter ents png, ot ee hi chs ddan Ey arsed pueen eaten coe ios 32 
PLES UN TIER) fh eye) es tale, SIS, ohn se ee eal re Re on GE, 32 


Photographs for figs. 6 and 7 from Claude Thorp and Son, Wapella; for fig. 22 from 
Ray T. Nicholas, Lake County Farm Adviser, Grayslake, Illinois. 


*AJUNOD UOSSUIALT UL SI 910Y po}VA4SN]]L Yeaiqpulm sonids AVMION PlO-1v94-F][ OY, “eSnoyUlses & Jo yno owOY 
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WINDBREAKS. :.z.pavis: 
for Mlinois Farmstoads 


WinpbBREAK, as commonly understood in Illinois, is the name 
given to a narrow belt of trees planted on one or more sides of 
a farmstead to provide protection from the wind. 


NEED FOR WINDBREAKS 


In Illinois, with only a tenth of the state occupied by forest 
growth, which is irregularly distributed, there is a strong need 
for evergreen plantings to protect farmsteads from cold north- 
west winds that blow in winter. This need is felt particularly 
in sections of intensive agriculture, both in originally timbered 
sections and on the prairies, where differences in elevation are 
not sufficient to break the force of the wind. From 1870 to 1875, 
considerable interest in windbreak planting was evidenced in 
the northern part of the state, and the early plantings that 
were given good care and protection now stand as landmarks, 
the better evergreen windbreaks having reached heights of 60 
feet and more. 

The trees used in early windbreaks were mostly of European 
origin, and it was not always easy to obtain good planting stock. 
Today, with numerous private tree nurseries in the state produc- 
ing comparatively large quantities of trees suited to windbreak 
planting, farm people can easily provide themselves with wind 
‘protection at reasonable cost. 


BENEFITS FROM WINDBREAKS 


The greatest benefit that can be expected from a good wind- 
break is the sheltering effect on the farmhouse, the farm build- 
ings, and the feedlots, fig. 1. A house protected by a windbreak 
is more comfortable in winter, and less costly to heat, than one 
lacking such protection. Windbreak-protected barns and feed 
sheds are warmer in winter and keep more nearly even tempera- 


*Formerly Extension Forester, Illinois Natural History Survey and University 
of Illinois College of ee ere: cooperating. Revisions in the present edition of 
this circular are by L. B. Culver, successor to Mr. Davis. 


[1] 


2 ILLINOIS NATURAL HISTORY SURVEY CIRCULAR 38 


tures, so that livestock can be more easily carried over winter 
in good condition. Also, livestock can make more winter use of 
protected feedlots. For men working around feedlots and barns, 
or for women hanging out clothes, the windbreak provides com- 


i] 


Fig. 1—Farmstead facing south in southeastern Henry County. Upper: 
Protective strips of trees are on the north and west sides. Lower: Feed 
shed and feedlots of this farmstead are well protected by a 28-year-old wind- 
break of Norway spruce. 


parative comfort in the zone of quiet air to the leeward of its 
spreading branches. The windbreak also catches snow, and if 
properly located it prevents blocking of walks and drives, and 
drifting around buildings. Snow in the shade of the trees melts 
slowly in the spring, and the moisture is conserved for garden 
crops and small fruits planted near the windbreak. 

With its contribution of beautiful form and color, as well 
as comfort, the windbreak can make a farm home out of a farm- 
house. While protecting the farm buildings, the windbreak also 
protects near-by flowers, shrubs, and ornamental trees, giving 
them a better chance to develop and beautify the home grounds. 
The windbreak may well serve as background for conveniently ar- 
ranged farm buildings enriched by well-chosen trees and shrubs, 
the whole of which makes the farm home attractive. 


DAVIS: WINDBREAKS FOR ILLINOIS FARMSTEADS 3 


EXPECTATIONS 


Under average conditions the evergreen trees recommended 
for windbreaks grow at moderate rates, figs. 2, 3, and 26. Trees 
in a Norway spruce windbreak planted near Greenville in Bond 
County averaged 18 feet in height in 12 years. Another Norway 
spruce windbreak planted in the southeastern corner of Hamilton 
County reached a height of 30 feet at 18 years of age; its 
branches now form an almost impenetrable barrier to the wind. 
In northern Rock Island County another Norway spruce wind- 
break at 28 years attained a height of 38 feet, fig. 4. Evergreen 
windbreaks planted in northern Illinois 70 years ago now stand 
60 to 70 feet high and have been affording good protection for 
more than 50 years. Patience and attention to details in caring 
for an evergreen windbreak will be well rewarded, for its pro- 
tective influence will last several generations. 


Fig. 2.—This farmstead in Jo Daviess County enjoys the protection of 
a 60-year-old Norway spruce windbreak. 


Fr 


Fig. 3.—A Norway spruce windbreak in McLean County. Protected from 
stock and poultry by a good fence, the trees in this windbreak in 18 years 
reached a height of 20 feet. 


4 ILLINOIS NATURAL HISTORY SURVEY CIRCULAR 38 


Most of the windbreak trees may be expected to increase in 
height an average of 1 foot per year throughout their lives. For 
the first 20 years some trees may grow as much as 8 feet a year, 
variations in growth depending on seasons, soil and moisture 


a 


ve 4 aS & BLA tink is ooze eS OSs 


Fig. 4.—This 28-year-old windbreak of Norway spruce in Rock Island 
County stands as a bulwark against winter storms. In summer it serves 
as an area for studying birds that find a haven there. The trees, spaced 
16 feet apart in and between the three rows, average 38 feet in height. 


conditions, and care. On the Grand Prairie, none of the ever- 
greens should be expected to make as good height growth or to 
maintain as dense foliage as they do in other sections of the state. 
In this area, Norway spruce exceeds the pines in height and it 
does not flatten out as do the pines. : 

Some persons who are not well acquainted with evergreen 
trees and their rates of growth would rather plant Chinese elm, 
Lombardy poplar, or soft maple to make a showing more quickly. 
Although their growth is rapid, these species do not make satis- 
factory windbreaks or even good, permanent shade. Because 
their wood is weak, they are subject to ice and wind damage. 
Lacking foliage during winter months, they fail to furnish pro- 
tection when it is most needed. 


PLANNING THE WINDBREAK 


Locating the Windbreak.—Weather records show that, for 
most of Illinois, prevailing winter winds are from northwest- 
erly directions, fig. 5; therefore, the windbreak, to give the 
best protection, in most cases should be located on the north and 


DAVIS: WINDBREAKS FOR ILLINOIS 


a 


FARMSTEADS 


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Fig. 5.—The arrows show the direc- 


—-- == — 


tion of the average prevailing wind 
during winter months of a 10-year 
period, 1938-1947, for 27 cities of 
Illinois. (From [Illinois weather re- 


ite ies “aaa eae ) 
ports.) % \é ims 


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——-1 @ MC LEANSBORO 


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6 ILLINOIS NATURAL HISTORY SURVEY CIRCULAR 88 


west sides of the farmstead, figs. 6 and 7. Even in those 
localities in which the prevailing wind is southerly, it is not 
advisable to place a windbreak south of the farmstead. In such 
localities the coldest winds are generally from the north and 


Fig. 6.—A Norway spruce windbreak on the prairie in De Witt County 
3 years after being planted along the north and west sides of a farmstead. 
Because of the size and shape of the farmstead area, 200 trees were re- 
quired. The average farmstead requires between 100 and 150 trees. 


Fig. 7.—The windbreak shown in fig. 6 at 9 years of age. With the 
trees averaging 15 feet in height, the planting is already giving some pro- 
tection. 


DAVIS: WINDBREAKS FOR ILLINOIS FARMSTEADS 7 


northwest. Also, the prevailing summer winds are southwest, 
and it is desirable to have the farmstead exposed on the south 
to receive the cooling effects of these winds. In localities where 
the prevailing winter wind is south or southwest, it is advisable 
to run the north-south line of the windbreak at least 100 feet 
farther than usual to the south of the farm buildings. 

The most effective and most easily arranged windbreak is 
in the form of an L, fig. 8, with the point to the northwest. The 


Fig. 8.—An L-shaped windbreak in McHenry County shortly after being 
planted in 1938. This arrangement is most effective in protecting farm- 
steads from prevailing winds. 


legs of the L may be broken to make way for farm lanes, but the 
windbreak should not be broken near the point, where north- 
west winds may sweep through directly to the buildings. 

Figs. 9 and 10 show windbreak plans for farmsteads facing 
the cardinal points of the compass. These plans are for typical 
farmsteads found in Illinois and are set up only as guides for 
the prospective windbreak planter. Because of the unlimited 
ways in which farm buildings are arranged, nearly every farm- 
stead presents a different problem in the planning of the wind- 
break. If the principles recommended in this circular are followed 
in planning the windbreak, it should be possible to provide satis- 
factory protection for any type of farmstead arrangement. 

Farmsteads facing south or east, fig. 9, are the easiest for 
which to plan windbreaks. Those facing west or north, fig. 10, 


8 ILLINOIS NATURAL HISTORY SURVEY CIRCULAR 88 


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Fig 9.—Plan for windbreak on farmsteads facing (above) ‘south; (below) east. 


DAVIS: WINDBREAKS FOR ILLINOIS FARMSTHADS 


” 

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‘ig. 10.—Plan for windbreak on farmsteads facing (above) west; (below) north. 


10 ILLINOIS NATURAL HISTORY SURVEY CIRCULAR 38 


present more difficult problems because of the necessity for shut- 
ting out completely the front outlook of the house, if the best 
protection is to be realized. Most Illinois farm homes are built 
so close to the road that there is not room enough to plant a solid 
windbreak between the front of the house and the road. Usually, 
in instances where homes face west or north, it is necessary to 


ee 


ing out rows in a wind- 
break with a simple corner 
arrangement. First lay 
out the three rows indicat- 
ed by A; then lay out the 
row of trees marked B, 
starting 12 feet from the 
last tree of the inner row 
A. Line up the remaining 
trees as shown. 


oe 


ag 


i Fig. 11.—Method of lay- 


IN 


BN 
= 


~ ae ak & 
|e ae de oe: 


& 
m 


T 
‘z 
B 


sacrifice part of the efficiency of the windbreak and part of the 
view, and make the short leg of the L only a single row of trees 
extending whatever distance is desired across the front of the 
property. 

If a farmstead faces north or west, and it is desired not to 
obstruct the view at all from the front of the house, the wind- 
break can then take only the form of a single strip running along 
the north or west side of the farmstead. 

Distances From Buildings.—Effective protection is afforded 
by a good windbreak to a distance approximately eight times its 
height. Thus, a windbreak 40 feet high should almost completely 
check the wind for 320 feet to leeward, and buildings and lots 
in this area should have adequate protection. Some influence of 
the windbreak may be felt at a distance up to 20 times the height 
of the trees, but in Illinois it is best to keep principal buildings 
within a 300-foot distance. 


DAVIS: WINDBREAKS FOR ILLINOIS FARMSTEADS at 


To prevent dead-air pockets around buildings in summer, 
and to minimize the piling of snow on buildings and walks in 
winter, the windbreak should be set not closer than 50 feet from 
buildings, and 100 feet is a better distance if room is available. 
Where possible, the end of the windbreak should extend at least 
50 feet past the line of the last building to be protected. 

Number of Rows and Spacing.—For the species of ever- 
greens recommended for use, the best type of windbreak con- 
sists of three rows of trees, the trees in the middle row being 
alternated with those in the two outside rows, fig. 11. The rows 
should be at least 14 feet apart and the trees should be spaced 
14 feet apart in the rows. At this spacing, with three rows being 
used, three trees are required for every 14 feet of windbreak; the 
planting rate is one tree per 4.7 feet. At this rate, a 600-foot 
windbreak will require 128 trees. An easy way to estimate the 
approximate number of trees required is to multiply the wind- 
break length in feet by 0.22. As estimated by this method, the 
number of trees required for a 600-foot windbreak is 132. 

Trees should not be planted close together to form a hedge, 
fig. 12, for evergreens need plenty of room and light to develop 
dense lower branches, and the lower branches are needed to check 
surface winds when the trees start making good height growth. 


Fig. 12.—A well-spaced windbreak being planted in DeKalb County. 
The trees were trucked from the nursery on the planting day and were out 
of the ground only a few hours. 


12 ILLINOIS NATURAL HISTORY SURVEY CIRCULAR 38 


To avoid difficulties in laying out the corner of the wind- 
break, follow the plan shown in fig. 11. First stake out one strip 
of the windbreak for its entire length, the three rows indicated 
by A. Then lay out the outer row of the second strip, the trees 
indicated by B, in line with the trees nearest the letter A in the 
outside rows of the first strip. In staking out the first row in the 
second strip, begin 12 feet from the nearest tree in the inside 
row of the first strip. The middle row of the second strip will 
then start 19 feet from the inside row of the first strip. 

Species of Trees to Use.—Evergreen trees provide the most 
satisfactory windbreak because they hold their foliage during 
the winter months when protection is most needed. The spruces 
and firs form an almost solid barrier to the wind because of their 
dense-branching habit and their tendency, if given plenty of 
growing room, to hold heavy foliage on branches close to the 
ground, fig. 2, page 3. Of this group the Norway spruce and 
the Douglasfir are best adapted to Illinois conditions. Norway 
spruce is suited to the northern two-thirds of the state. Douglas- 
fir, from the dry Rocky Mountain region, is more drought resist- 
ant and is adapted to a wider range of soils. 

Pines make more rapid height growth than spruce or fir, but, 
because their branching habit is more open and their foliage 
thinner, they do not break the wind so effectively. For height in 
a windbreak at an early date, pines may be used as a center row 
between two outer rows of spruce or fir. Pines should not be used 
alone, except on light, sandy soils to which the other trees are 
not adapted. Five pines—red (Norway) pine, eastern white pine, 
loblolly pine, shortleaf pine, and Austrian pine—may be used for 
windbreaks. The shortleaf pine is a southern tree, native to lower 
Illinois, and should be used only in the southern third of the state. 
Loblolly pine, another southern species, may be planted as far 
north as East St. Louis, Salem, and Lawrenceville. The other 
three pines may be used throughout Illinois. 

Another evergreen, the eastern redcedar, is occasionally used 
for windbreaks. It has very dense foliage and is pleasing in ap- 
pearance, but it is comparatively short and slow growing, and it 
harbors the cedar-apple rust. See page 32. 

It is advisable to use more than one species of tree in the 
windbreak to prevent the severe appearance of straight rows of 
trees all of the same form and color, and to make the windbreak 
blend into the farmstead landscape scheme. Norway spruce or 
Douglasfir or both may be used for the foundation of the wind- 


DAVIS: WINDBREAKS FOR ILLINOIS FARMSTEADS 13 


break, but the solid rows should be broken with small groups of 
evergreens having foliage of different texture, color, and form. 
Such groups at the ends and in corners are particularly pleasing 
in appearance. The windbreak spacing is not changed; the other 
varieties simply replace the spruce or fir in the regular spacing. 
Some trees that may be used in this way without lessening the 
effectiveness of the windbreak are Colorado (blue) spruce, white 
spruce, Black Hills spruce, concolor fir, red pine, Austrian pine, 
and Scotch pine. 

Selection of Planting Stock.—A careful selection of planting 
stock contributes much to high survival the first season and 


Fig. 13.—Balled-and-burlapped tree of size recommended for windbreak 
planting. This tree has a ball of earth large enough to insure its being 
handled without disturbance to the root system. Quickest results may be 
expected from balled-and-burlapped stock. 


favorable growth and development in the following years. Trees 
with dense, vigorous foliage and compact systems of fine, fibrous 
roots offer better chances for success than do those with spindly 
tops, thin or yellowish foliage, and weak root systems. Thrift 
and vigor, reflected in the appearance of the foliage, determine 
the inherent ability of the tree to withstand the shock of being 
transplanted. 

“Bargain” trees should be avoided. Usually in such stock 
some quality desirable in good trees is lacking. Perhaps the 
stock is weak and poorly developed because of crowding in the 


14 ILLINOIS NATURAL HISTORY SURVEY CIRCULAR 38 


nursery row. It may have been damaged by severe weather that 
has seriously lowered the vitality of the trees. Possibly the trees 
are too large for safe transplanting, or they may have been grow- 
ing too long without the benefit of root-pruning. Spruce or fir 
that has grown for more than 4 years without being root-pruned 
develops long, spreading roots that must be cut off in digging. 
Such loss of roots proportionately reduces the chances for sur- 
vival and later growth. 

Quickest results and greatest early success may be expected 
from balled-and-burlapped stock, fig. 13. Balled-and-burlapped 
trees are those that have been dug with a ball of earth on the 
roots and this ball wrapped securely in burlap. Trees dug in this 
manner never have the roots exposed to the air, and, if they are 
carefully handled, the soil does not become loosened from the fine 
feeding roots. In this class of stock, trees with 2- to 4-foot tops 
are considered most economical and also most convenient to 
handle. If larger trees are used, their height should not exceed 
6 feet, and then the ball of earth should be large enough to in- 
clude a high proportion of the roots. 

Trees that have balls of earth too small to include most of 
the roots should be rejected. Balls of earth that are too small 
will show numerous ends of freshly cut roots, shorn off in digging. 
Narrow-crowned trees that give evidence of having been crowded 
in the nursery should be similarly rejected. 

Balled-and-burlapped trees should be used, if finances will 
permit. Other factors being equal, losses are considerably less in 
balled-and-burlapped stock than in bare-root stock. 

If low cost is an important consideration, however, bare-root 
stock may be used. Bare-root trees are those that have had the 
soil shaken from the roots, which are then kept moist by being 
packed in wet moss or similar material. Because of the unavoid- 
able loss of some roots in this type of handling, it is essential 
that the root system consist of a mass of fine, fibrous roots, fig. 
14, rather than a few coarse, stout ones. In bare-root trees, the 
qualities of thrift and vigor and dense, well-balanced tops and 
roots are even more important than in balled-and-burlapped trees. 

Bare-root trees should be transplants at least 5 years old. 
Those with 12- to 15-inch tops have proved most successful, and 
the height should never exceed 18 inches. Planters have experi- 
enced severe losses with bare-root stock of larger size. If trans- 
plants smaller than 12 inches in height are used, severe damage 
by rabbits may result. (See “Protection,” page 26.) Trans- 


DAVIS: WINDBREAKS FOR ILLINOIS FARMSTEADS 15 


with bare-root stock. 


16 ILLINOIS NATURAL HISTORY SURVEY CIRCULAR 38 


plants designated as 2-3 stock have been grown 2 years in the 
seedbed and 3 years in transplant rows; 2—2-1 stock consists of 
trees grown in the seedbed for 2 years and in transplant rows 
for 2 years followed by 1 year in rows after a second transplant- 
ing. Transplanting has a root-pruning effect and aids in the de- 
velopment of compact, fibrous root systems. In selecting bare- 
root trees it should be realized that sharp attention is necessary 
in handling and care to assure satisfactory results. 

Windbreaks generally require 100 to 150 trees, varying, of 
course, with the length necessary to protect buildings and lots. 
(See “Number of Rows and Spacing,” page 11; also ‘“Replant- 
ing,” page 26.) It is advisable to purchase at least 10 more trees 
than are actually needed for the original windbreak planting, 
so that some extra trees may be planted in the garden and used 
later to replace losses in the windbreak. 

The majority of ornamental nurseries grow the types of 
trees satisfactory for windbreaks, and some of the large nurs- 
eries specialize in producing windbreak trees. Information on 
sources and prices of windbreak planting stock may be obtained 
by writing to the Extension Forester, 219 Mumford Hall, Urbana, 
Illinois. 

Because farmstead windbreaks have ornamental value, trees 
for planting them are not available from Illinois state nurseries, 
which supply stocks for shelterbelts (field windbreaks) and for 
the establishment of forest plantations in which wood crops are 
grown and produced. 

Trees should be ordered early in the winter to assure obtain- 
ing those desired before supplies run out. 


PLANTING THE WINDBREAK 


Preparation for Planting.—All plans for the windbreak 
should be made in the fall, and the area should be marked out. 
Included in the area should be a strip at least 6 feet wide be- 
tween each outer row and a fence that should be erected to pro- 
tect the trees, figs. 11 and 21. An 8-foot strip between the trees 
and the fence is advisable where space permits, since this dis- 
tance allows more room for mowing equipment, and the trees are 
larger in size and better established by the time their branches 
reach the fence. Experience in Illinois indicates that it is advis- 
able to maintain a sod cover on the windbreak area; so soil prepa- 
ration will be necessary only where a satisfactory sod does not 


DAVIS: WINDBREAKS FOR ILLINOIS FARMSTEADS 17 


aed 


Fig. 15.—Drainage from barnyards kills evergreen trees. This section 
of windbreak area is part of the short strip shown in fig. 8, 10 years after 
being planted. Note dead trees, thin foliage, and lack of good stand. 


already exist. Where plowing of the windbreak area is essential, 
this work should be done thoroughly in the fall and followed by 
disking and harrowing in the spring. 

Since windbreaks are located to protect barns and feedlots, 
as well as houses, there may often be drainage of barnyard water 
across the windbreak area. Such drainage, and even slow seep- 
age, will kill evergreens in a short time and should be taken care 
of before the trees are planted, figs. 15 and 16. The local sit- 
uation will, in most cases, dictate the manner of meeting this 
problem. Where the natural surface drainage across the wind- 
break area is well defined, a ditch or tile may be most practical. 
Usually, seepage in level or nearly level situations can be pre- 
vented by forming a ridge 2 or 3 feet high between the lot and 
the windbreak on the windbreak side of the fence. Improvement 
of drainage in another direction may also be necessary. In some 
cases where a pronounced even slope would carry lot drainage 
across the windbreak area, it might be advisable to provide a 
catch basin by laying a tile line between the lot and the windbreak 


18 ILLINOIS NATURAL HISTORY SURVEY CIRCULAR 38 


on the windbreak side of the fence and filling from tile to ground 
surface with crushed rock. It is preferable to carry barnyard 
water around the windbreak by a diversion ditch where that 
method is at all practicable. 

It is advisable to build necessary fences around the wind- 
break area in the fall rather than to postpone this job until the 


as 


Fig. 16.—These vigorous Norway spruce trees are located in the same 
windbreak as those shown in fig. 15. Absence of manure water accounts for 
the difference in growth and survival rate. The stand here, not exposed to 
barnyard drainage, is already giving protection, 10 years after being planted. 


trees are planted, when the fencing might be neglected because 
of the rush of spring work. The fence must be adequate to keep 
out both stock and poultry. 

Only spring planting of windbreaks is recommended. Spring- 
planted trees have the advantage of one growing season before 
they encounter the rigors of their first winter. Fall-planted wind- 
breaks may suffer heavy losses from frost heaving or winter 
burning, and the average farmstead owner cannot afford to lose 
a large number of trees of the size used for windbreak planting. 

In the spring each row should be laid out and the place for 
each tree marked with a stake. Laths make handy markers for 
this use, fig. 17. It is important that the area be ready so that 
planting may be done without delay as soon as the trees are 
received. 

Handling the Trees.—Arrangements can be made to have 
nurseries ship your trees, have them ready to be called for, or 
deliver them at the time you request. When your order is con- 


DAVIS: WINDBREAKS FOR ILLINOIS FARMSTEADS 19 


firmed, you should notify the nursery of a date that will bring 
you the trees at a time when in your experience you may expect 
the ground to be in good condition; the earlier in the spring the 
better. 

Balled-and-burlapped trees should be moved to the farm and 
planted in the shortest time practicable after being dug at the 
nursery. The greatest danger of damage through drying exists 
in this period. Trucking is generally the most satisfactory means 
of transportation, since it is usually the most prompt and eco- 
nomical. Some windbreak planters in areas 125 to 150 miles from 


Fig. 17.—Windbreak area in Putnam County that has been well prepared 
and made ready for the trees. Lath stakes indicate where the trees are to 
be planted. 


nurseries of their choice in the Chicago area have used return 
trips of livestock trucks in transporting their trees. Freight is 
too slow for such a perishable product as nursery stock, and, be- 
cause of the weight of balled-and-burlapped trees, express is 
usually not economical. In transit the balls of earth should be 
kept moist with wet sacks or straw, or the trees should be pro- 
tected with a tarpaulin so that wind and sun will not dry them 
out. 

Use care in handling the trees. Dropping or other rough 
handling breaks the ball of earth and tears away fine feeding 
roots; such handling also loosens the soil, which can then dry 
out quickly. Trees should be picked up by the ball and not by 
the stem. Lifting by the stem places an excessive strain on the 


20 ILLINOIS NATURAL HISTORY SURVEY CIRCULAR 38 


root system and tears the fine roots, particularly if the ball of 
earth is large and heavy. 

When temporary storage becomes necessary, balled-and-bur- 
lapped trees should be grouped together in a shady place, as on 
the north side of a building or in a cool shed. The balls of earth 
should be packed with wet sacks or the trees protected with a 
tarpaulin to reduce evaporation. 

Rapid transportation of bare-root trees is important, and 
both express and truck shipments have proved satisfactory. 
However, if your trees are to be shipped by express, telephone 
your express office daily after receiving notice of shipment so 
that you can call for the trees as soon as possible after their 
arrival. Bare-root trees of the size suitable for windbreak plant- 
ing are usually tied in bunches and packed tightly in crates or 
burlap-covered bundles with the roots in moist moss. The moss 
is necessary to keep the tree roots moist, but if left very long it 
will heat and mold, seriously damaging the trees. It is therefore 
urgent that you remove the trees promptly from the transporta- 
tion office and plant them or heel them in the same day in a cool, 
shady place. 

To heel-in trees, make a trench of sufficient depth, width, 
and length to accommodate the roots when the trees are placed 
side by side in a single row. Dig the trench with one side of it 
slightly sloping; when removing the soil pile it on the other side 
so that you can easily throw it over the roots after you have 
placed them in the trench. Before opening a bunch of trees, cut 
off any long, straggling roots, as roots curled up in the bottom of 
the planting hole or turned back toward the top cannot grow 
properly. After pruning the straggling roots, open the bundle 
and spread three to five trees along the sloping side of the trench; 
immediately cover the roots with moist soil and firm it about 
them. 

Keep the bundles of trees in the moist moss of the package 
until the trench is prepared. Use care at all times to keep the 
roots of the trees moist. Drying of the roots will kill them; it is 
improper handling of the trees that causes many serious planta- 
tion losses. After heeling-in the trees, water the soil about the 
roots and keep it well watered until the trees have been planted. 
If you have not heeled-in the trees in a shady place, shade them 
with boards or burlap set high enough off the ground to allow 
free circulation of air around the tree tops. You can safely keep 
the trees heeled-in for a week or 10 days, but you can expect 


DAVIS: WINDBREAKS FOR ILLINOIS FARMSTEADS 21 


best results if you plant them in the windbreak area at once. 
When you remove trees from the heeling-in bed, be sure to loosen 
the soil around the roots so that the fine ones will not be torn 
away. These fine roots are important to the survival of the 
trees. 

When planting bare-root trees, carry them in a galvanized 
bucket or tub containing sufficient water to cover the roots. The 
water will serve to keep the roots moist while the trees are being 
_ carried along the rows. Take trees from the bucket one at a 
time; keep each tree in the bucket until the hole for it is pre- 
pared. The exposure that results from carrying bare-root trees 
in your hand along the planting row for even a few seconds will 
kill the fine roots. 

Planting.—Where a sod cover exists on the windbreak site, 
it is necessary to cut away an area of sod at least 4 feet in 
diameter where each tree is to be planted. The hole in which 
the tree is planted should be wide enough and deep enough to 
accommodate the ball of earth without crowding, or to receive 
the roots well spread out in a natural position, and to allow the 
tree to be set at least as deep as it grew in the nursery. Planting 
the tree as much as an inch deeper than it grew in the nursery 
will do no harm, but it should never be planted any shallower. 

A grub hoe, spade, or round-pointed shovel may be used 
to cut away sod. Holes may be dug with a round-pointed 
shovel, or they may be dug to desired hole depth with a powered 
post-hole auger and enlarged to proper size with shovel or spade. 

Immediately after each hole is dug, select a tree, and plant 
it in the hole. Avoid digging holes in advance of planting, be- 
cause holes dry rapidly under average spring weather condi- 
tions. Dry soil, as well as air, in contact with the roots can 
damage and possibly kill the tree. Moist soil in the hole is essen- 
tial for bare-root stock and desirable for balled-and-burlapped 
trees. In planting a balled-and-burlapped tree, set the ball in 
the hole without removing the burlap, fig. 18, and tamp top soil 
around the ball until the hole is filled within an inch or two of 
the top. A small-diameter post tamp is useful in packing the 
soil around the curved bottom of the ball as well as the sides. In 
planting a bare-root tree, hold the tree in an upright position 
and work fine soil down around the roots, tamping it in firmly 
until the hole is about three-quarters filled. In the planting of 
either balled-and-burlapped or bare-root stock the soil should be 
packed firm; loose soil or air pockets are to be avoided. Extreme 


22 ILLINOIS NATURAL HISTORY SURVEY CIRCULAR 38 


Fig. 18.—Balled-and-burlapped Norway spruce set in windbreak row 
without removing burlap from ball of earth. The cords will be cut and the 
burlap turned back from the top of the ball before the hole is completely 
filed with soil. 


ac Bed 


eB, 
x 


Fig. 19.—Watering newly planted Norway spruce after the hole has 
been filled within an inch or two of top with soil. After the water has 
soaked in, the hole will be filled level with the ground surface with loose soil. 


DAVIS: WINDBREAKS FOR ILLINOIS FARMSTEADS 23 


care is necessary in handling bare-root trees to assure satisfactory 
results. 

Before completely filling the hole of the balled-and-burlapped 
or the bare-root tree, pour in at least one bucket of water and 
let it soak in, fig. 19. Do no more tamping after watering. Fill 
the hole to the ground surface with loose soil; do not make a 
mound around the base of the tree. In planting a balled-and- 
burlapped tree, before the hole is completely filled with soil, 
loosen the burlap from the top of the ball and spread it out to 
be covered with a mulching material. Cut cord or twine that 
may be tied around the stem of the tree. 

When planting windbreak trees, observe these precautions: 

Keep tree roots or ball of earth moist. 

Dig the hole deep enough to avoid curling or bunching of 
the roots. 

Set the tree in an erect position. 

Set the tree at least as deep as it grew in the nursery, and 
not more than 1 inch deeper. 

Keep dry soil, sod, or other debris out of the hole. 

Use only moist soil in filling the hole. 

Pack soil around the tree roots or ball of earth. 

Settle the soil with a bucket of water. 


CARE OF THE WINDBREAK 


Mulching.—A good mulch should be placed around the trees 
immediately after planting and this mulch should be maintained 
until the lower branches of the trees cover the area normally 
covered by the mulch. The importance of such a mulch cannot 
be overemphasized. Experiences of windbreak planters clearly 
show that an effective mulch pays valuable dividends in higher 
survival, denser foliage, and more rapid growth. In summer it 
keeps grass and weeds away from the tree and conserves moisture 
for the shallow feeding roots; in winter it keeps the soil at a 
relatively even temperature that assures minimum winter injury. 

Peat moss, chopped hay, straw, or ground cobs make good 
mulching material. Straw is frequently used, as it is usually 
available and is easy to handle, fig. 20. Any straw used should 
not contain animal manure. Although thoroughly rotted manure 
may be used effectively, the high nitrogen content of manures 
usually available on farms burns the tree roots and makes use of 
such materials dangerous. 


24 ILLINOIS NATURAL HISTORY SURVEY CIRCULAR 36 


In recent years ground corn cobs have increased in popu- 
larity as a mulch. The material is easy to apply and keep in place 
in spring winds; also it does not rot down so fast as straw and 
requires less frequent replacement. Under average conditions a 


Fig. 20.—Straw mulch placed arvound this Douglasfir has been completely 
effective in keeping weeds and grass away from the tree. 


liberal application of ground cobs will be effective for two sum- 
mers, whereas a similar application of straw will need replace- 
ment after one season. Cobs should be ground to the fineness 
commonly used in poultry brooder houses. Broken cobs from corn 
shelling, because of their coarseness, are not effective. 

Sawdust and fine, chaffy materials are not entirely satisfac- 
tory because of their tendency to crack with the soil in dry 
periods. 

The mulch should cover an area not less than 4 feet in diam- 
eter and should be at least 3 inches thick.. The mulching material 
should not be placed against the tree; a 2- or 3-inch clearance 
should be provided around the stem to reduce the possibility of 
mouse injury. As soon as the mulch breaks down so that weeds 
start growing through, it should be replaced. 

Sod Cover or Cultivation?—Establishing a good sod cover 
between the trees and maintaining a good mulch around the trees 


DAVIS: WINDBREAKS FOR ILLINOIS FARMSTEADS 25 


have been found much more satisfactory practices than cultivat- 
ing the windbreak close to the trees. 

In case farmstead owners desire to grow garden crops in the 
windbreak area, cultivation is not objectionable if kept far enough 
away from the trees to avoid disturbing the roots and mulch. 
Any row crops may be grown, but vining crops should be avoided. 
The cultivation of garden crops in the windbreak should not be 
carried on for more than 8 years after the trees are planted, as 
the roots of the trees will begin to spread out where they will 
be liable to injury by the cultivator. 

In establishing a sod cover, use any grass mixture suited to 
the locality. Mixtures including alsike clover or lespedeza are 
desirable; sweet clover and alfalfa should be avoided. A suitable 
mixture includes timothy, redtop, and alsike clover. In parts of 
the state where it reseeds, lespedeza may be added. After the sod 
is established, usually about two clippings a season are advisable 
to reduce competition with the trees. Clipping should occur be- 
fore the growth becomes rank and develops heads. 


Fig. 21.—The fence is important in windbreak planting. This young 
windbreak in Vermilion County is protected from livestock by good fence. 


26 ILLINOIS NATURAL HISTORY SURVEY CIRCULAR 38 


Protection.— Windbreaks, to be successful, must be protected 
throughout their entire lives from both stock and poultry. As 
stated above, adequate fences, fig. 21, should be built even before 
the trees are planted and thereafter permanently maintained. 

Animals pack the soil and injure tree roots; they browse 
and trample small trees and spoil the effectiveness of larger trees 
by browsing the foliage and by breaking the lower branches, 
fig. 22. Poultry scratch earth away from the roots, fig. 23, and 


Fig. 22.—A Norway spruce in windbreak damaged by sheep. Note hang- 
ing wool (circle) and stub of branch (arrow) broken by rubbing. Absence of 
low branches permits ground wind to whip under the green crowns and 
reduce effectiveness of the windbreak. All forms of livestock should be 
permanently excluded from the windbreak area. 


pick the opening buds in the spring; when they roost in the trees 
their droppings kill the branches. Both stock and poultry destroy 
the mulch applied after planting, as well as the carpet of needles 
that later naturally forms and provides mulching benefits. Fif- 
teen- to 20-foot trees have been observed losing needles and be- 
coming thin-foliaged as a result of the scratching and dusting 
of poultry beneath their crowns. In some situations where small 
trees are used, protection from rabbits may be necessary, but 
usually no special protection from these animals is required if 
the fence is poultry tight. 

Replanting.—The success of a windbreak depends on a solid 
stand of trees being brought through to maturity. Each tree 


DAVIS: WINDBREAKS FOR ILLINOIS FARMSTEADS 27 


missing from the original pattern cuts down the efficiency of the 
windbreak and lessens the planter’s reward for his efforts in 
setting and caring for the trees. The planter cannot expect every 
tree to live, and, as there are usually a few losses during the first 


Fig. 23.—Poultry scratched soil away from this Douglasfir and exposed 
fine, shallow feeding roots. Note absence of mulch around the tree and of 
vegetation in the foreground. Protection from poultry is essential to good 
windbreak development. 


few years, it is advisable to order at least 10 more trees than 
will actually be needed to plant the windbreak. These trees should 
be set about 3 feet apart in a row in the garden, cared for as are 
the windbreak trees, and used to replace the windbreak trees that 
die. There should be no further losses in the young windbreak 
after it is 5 years old, and any remaining replacement trees may 
be used for ornamental planting about the grounds. 

Renewing Old Windbreaks.—Evergreen trees, like other 
plants, will not live forever, and the time must be expected to 
arrive when the trees in the mature windbreak will start dying. 
Then the windbreak will begin to lose its effectiveness. Many 
of the old windbreaks planted in northern Illinois in the 1860’s 
and ’70’s have served well for many decades but are now becom- 
ing thin and ineffective, as is shown clearly in fig. 24. The life 
span of the evergreens is usually longer in northern Illinois than 
in the southern or central parts of the state, and on the Grand 


28 ILLINOIS NATURAL HISTORY SURVEY CIRCULAR 38 


Fig. 24.—A Norway spruce windbreak, 65 years old and beginning to thin 
out; this windbreak is badly in need of supplemental planting. 


Prairie their life span is shortest. The windbreaks planted today, 
however, should last much longer than the old windbreaks have 
lasted, because in the early plantings the trees were invariably 
set too close together and their greatest loss was the result of 
overcrowding. 

As soon as the old windbreak starts thinning out, steps 
should be taken to get new trees established so that these trees 
will be tall enough to be effective by the time the old trees have 
to be removed. The best plan is to start two new rows of trees 
outside the old windbreak, as was done in the case illustrated 


Fig. 25.—Two new rows of Norway spruce planted to supplement an old 
windbreak that is thinning out. When the old windbreak is gone, a third 
row can be set where the old trees now stand. 


DAVIS: WINDBREAKS FOR ILLINOIS FARMSTEADS 29 


in fig. 25. When the old trees finally have to be cut, a third row 
of new trees may be set where the old windbreak originally stood. 
If it is desired to work the windbreak in closer to the farmstead, 
the first two rows of new trees can be set on the inside of the 
old windbreak rather than on the outside. New trees should never 
be planted among the old ones, for the evergreens need full light 
for their development and will be quickly killed by the shade 
from the old trees. 

Diseases and Insects.—The trees in the windbreak should 
be watched for symptoms of injury by disease or insects, for 
such injury may seriously retard the growth of the trees, or even 
kill some of them. Red spider and bagworm are rather common 
pests that may attack individuals or small groups of the kinds 
of trees recommended for windbreak planting in Illinois. Alert- 
ness in detecting an attack is important to avoid loss; controls 
properly timed are simple. (See University of Illinois College 
of Agriculture Extension Circular 509, Protecting Shade Trees 
From Insect Damage.) No control has yet been developed for 
the tip moth, which attacks shortleaf pine, or the Zimmer- 
man pine moth, which damages Austrian and Scotch pines. 

A disease known as Cytospora canker has been found in a 
few instances on young Norway spruce; apparently it had spread 
from old spruce near-by. Recent occurrence of white pine blister 
rust on eastern white pine in northern Illinois may make the 
planting of that species in windbreaks unadvisable except in loca- 
tions (usually on the prairie) where cultivated and wild goose- 
berries and currants, alternate hosts of the disease, do not usually 
grow. Gooseberries and currants that grow within 900 feet of 
the white pine location should be destroyed. 

It is advisable to look over the trees occasionally and, when- 
ever any symptoms of disease or unidentified insect injury appear, 
immediately send specimens of the injured branches to the 
Natural History Survey, at Urbana, for identification and recom- 
mendations for control measures. Quick action may save con- 
siderable loss. ) 


WHAT THE WINDBREAK TREES ARE LIKE 


Norway Spruce (Picea abies).—A native of Europe that has 
been found well adapted to planting in North America. Makes 
good growth throughout most of the state of Illinois but will not 
develop on sandy or excessively dry soils. Develops a tall, conical 


30 ILLINOIS NATURAL HISTORY SURVEY CIRCULAR 38 


crown with the branches tending to sweep downward and then 
turn slightly upward at the ends. The twigs often hang down 
like streamers from the lower branches, fig. 26. The leaves are 
short, needle-like and rich dark green. Grows best on deep, fresh 
soils. See figs. 2, 3, 4, 16, and 27, as well as fig. 26. 

Douglasfir (Pseudotsuga taxifolia).—A native of western 
North America found growing under a wide variety of conditions. 
The type found growing in the dry central Rocky Mountain region 
is well adapted to planting in Illinois. It is somewhat drought re- 
sistant and much less suscep- 
tible to red spider damage than 
is Norway spruce. Develops a 
dense, pyramidal crown, with 
lower branches sweeping down- 
ward; similar to the Norway 
spruce. The densely leaved 
twigs, also, sweep downward 
from the branches, giving an 
exceptionally attractive appear- 


Fig. 26.—Interior of Norway 
spruce windbreak, showing density 
of foliage. The trees in this wind- 
break in southern Hamilton County 
averaged 30 feet in height growth 
in 18 years; they illustrate the 
adaptability of Norway spruce to 
southern Illinois. 
ance to the tree. The leaves are needle-like, averaging 1 inch in 
length, and, although normally dark green, they often have a 
blue tinge. Early growth is at about the same rate as for Norway 
spruce. A few cases of late spring frost damage have been seen. 

White Spruce (Picea glauca).—A native tree of the north 
woods of the Great Lakes region, northeastern United States, 
and Canada that has been used successfully in ornamental plant- 
ings in Illinois. It does not grow so fast as Douglasfir or Norway 
spruce, but it has a dense, bluish-green foliage that is useful for 
windbreak plantings and that gives pleasing ornamental effects. 
Black Hills spruce (Picea glauca densata) is a variety of white 
spruce from the Black Hills of South Dakota. This variety is 
exceptionally drought resistant, but it grows too slowly to be 
generally recommended for windbreak planting in Illinois. 

Colorado (Blue) Spruce (Picea pungens).—A native of the 
Rocky Mountains well adapted to Illinois conditions. Highly de- 


DAVIS: WINDBREAKS FOR ILLINOIS FARMSTEADS 31 


sirable in the blue forms as an ornamental tree because of the 
light bluish cast and denseness of the foliage. Drought resistant, 
but slow growing. An excellent tree to mix with Douglasfir or 
Norway spruce for pleasing landscaping effects. 

White (Concolor) Fir (Abies concolor).—A true fir native 
to western North America and successfully planted as an orna- 
mental tree in Illinois. The dense, bluish-green foliage and the 
stocky, pyramidal form of the crown make it highly attractive 
as an occasional tree in mixture with Norway spruce or Douglas- 
fir. High cost usually makes its extensive use prohibitive. 

Red (Norway) Pine (Pinus resinosa).—A native tree of the 
forests of the Great Lakes region and northeastern United States 
that is doing exceptionally well in plantations in Illinois, even 
on dry, sandy soils. Makes rapid growth and attains good height. 
The reddish color of the bark and the sturdy, upright form of 
this tree add to the beauty of an evergreen planting. The needle- 
like leaves are long, but, being borne in clusters of two leaves 
each, do not make such dense foliage as spruce or fir. This, as 
well as the other pines, may be planted as the center row of a 
spruce or fir windbreak for more rapid height growth in the early 
years of the windbreak. However, it should not be planted alone 
except in the sand regions where conditions are too dry for spruce 
or fir. Although red pine is quite free from insect pests and 
diseases, on slowly drained soils it dies at an early age. 

Eastern White Pine (Pinus strobus).—A native tree of 
northern Illinois commonly found as a dooryard tree throughout 
the state. Well adapted to a wide variety of soils, but will not 
stand dry conditions so well as red pine or Austrian pine. This 
tree makes comparatively fast growth and reaches greater height 
than the other evergreens, except on the Grand Prairie, where 
the top tends to flatten out. The dark green, needle-like leaves, 
borne five in a cluster, are fine and limber, and form a denser 
foliage than that of the shortleaf, Austrian, or red pines. It may 
become infected by the white pine blister rust where that disease 
occurs on near-by currants and gooseberries. See discussion, 
“Diseases and Insects,” page 29. 

Shortleaf Pine (Pinus echinata).—A native pine of southern 
Illinois found on the dry ridges of the Ozarks. Grows rapidly and 
is well adapted to planting in poor, dry soils. The needle-like 
leaves, borne two or three in a cluster, do not make a dense foli- 
age. This tree is useful principally because of its rapid growth, 
but should be planted only in the southern part of the state. 


32 ILLINOIS NATURAL HISTORY SURVEY CIRCULAR 38 


Loblolly Pine (Pinus taeda).—A native of southern United 
States that has grown very rapidly in southern Illinois since its 
introduction there about two decades ago. Adapted to moist soils, 
it should not be planted in poor, dry situations. The bright green, 
needle-like leaves, occurring in clusters of two and three, fail to 
provide dense foliage. This tree, sometimes attacked by sap- 
suckers, should be used only south of an east-west line between 
East St. Louis and Lawrenceville. 

Austrian Pine (Pinus nigra).—A native of Europe that was 
widely planted in Illinois as a dooryard tree in the late years of 
the last century. The needle-like leaves are long and dark green, 
and form a fairly dense foliage. It makes rapid growth and will 
develop on poor, dry soils. It is a preferred host of the Zimmer- 
man pine moth and subject to attack by sapsuckers. Its value 
in a windbreak is somewhat inferior to that of red pine. 

Eastern Redcedar (Juniperus virginiana).—A native ever- 
green of Illinois with short, needle-like and scalelike leaves, and 
a very dense branching habit. It does not make great height 
growth, seldom reaching a height of 40 feet, but is adapted to 
practically all soils. Because of its dense crown, it is useful where 
there is room for only a single row of trees. The redcedar harbors 
the cedar-apple rust, which may cause serious damage to its 
alternate host, the apple. It is therefore not recommended for 
use in apple regions, even though orchardists may grow rust- 
resistant varieties of apples. See fig. 27 for windbreak of red- 
cedar and Norway spruce. The average growth rate of the 
eastern redcedar is slow. 


WINDBREAKS AND WILDLIFE* 


The usefulness of evergreen windbreaks to wildlife begins 
soon after planting and lasts throughout the life of the trees. 
Such usefulness may be perpetuated by replanting, as discussed 
on pages 26 to 29 of this circular. During the first few years the 
planting area may supply good nesting cover for game and cer- 
tain ground-frequenting songbirds. As the trees become larger 
they become increasingly valuable to tree-nesting birds, including 
mourning doves. Squirrels make use of larger windbreaks, es- 
pecially if suitable nest boxes are provided. «| 

Windbreaks supply dense, close-to-the-ground cover, par- 
ticularly valuable in winter in protecting wildlife during periods 


*This section by Lee E. Yeager, formerly Forester, Illinois Natural History Survey. 


DAVIS: WINDBREAKS FOR ILLINOIS FARMSTEADS 33 


of deep snow and very cold weather. They offer this sort of cover 
for a much longer time than do regular forest plantations be- 
cause the trees, spaced farther apart, allow the development of 
low, spreading branches that are not quickly killed by shading. 
The open spaces between trees are inviting to many native birds. 
Spruce, eastern redcedar, and fir are somewhat more valuable 
than the pines for cover purposes. 

Windbreaks in the vicinity of farm buildings serve song- 
birds probably more than they do quails, pheasants, rabbits, or 
squirrels. No situations are more attractive to wintering birds 
than those provided by evergreen trees. Bluejays, brown creep- 
ers, nuthatches, cardinals, native sparrows, woodpeckers, and 
other birds flock to such winter 
quarters. Quails and pheasants 
take shelter here during severe 
weather and they may use the 
cover at other seasons. 


; 
y 
ae 


Fig. 27.—Eastern redcedar and 
Norway spruce combined in a wind- 
break. .The two kinds of trees are 
the same age, but the Norway 
spruce in the background is twice 
as tall as the redcedar in front. 


Windbreaks make the best possible locations for winter bird 
feeding stations. The erection of suitable nest boxes after the 
trees reach a height of 12 to 15 feet may attract the useful 
screech owl, sparrow hawk, flicker, and other cavity-nesting birds. 
On the Illinois prairie, screech owls are year-round residents and 
they are known to destroy an average of one mouse per day. 
Sparrow hawks, common only during the late spring, summer, and 
fall, feed largely on insects, especially grasshoppers, and on mice. 
Most birds likely to use the windbreak are useful insect eaters; 
therefore, the windbreak, by attracting birds, has an important 
bearing on protection of the farm garden. 

Few places on the farm will serve the youngsters better as 
an outdoor laboratory for studying nature and her ways, fig. 4. 


No. 


yul9; 
pails 


aaa 


. 23. 
. 24, 
. 25. 
. 26. 
rails 
. 28. 


< 8): 
. 30. 


5 oul 
. 32. 


30. 


Biological Notes Published Recently by the 
ILLINOIS NATURAL HISTORY SURVEY 


Lake Management Reports. 5. Winterkill of Fishes in an Illinois 
Lake. George W. Bennett. January, 1948. 9 pp. 


Wildlife and Fisheries Values of Bottomland Lakes in Illinois. 
Frank C. Bellrose and Clair T. Rollings. June, 1949. 24 pp. 


Population Losses in the Mallard, Black Duck, and Blue-Winged 
Teal. Frank C. Bellrose and Elizabeth Brown Chase. January, 
1950. 27 pp. 


Cost of Bass Fishing at Ridge Lake, Coles County, Illinois. George 
W. Bennett and Leonard Durham. February, 1951. 16 pp. 


Control of Horse Flies on Cattle. Willis N. Bruce and George C. 
Decker. February, 1951. 8 pp. 


Commercial Fisheries of Illinois Rivers: A Statistical Report for 
1950. William C. Starrett and Sam A. Parr. November, 1951. 35 pp. 


Lead Poisoning in Wild Waterfowl. James S. Jordan and Frank 
C. Bellrose. December, 1951. 27 pp. 


Automatic Sprayer for Control of Biting Flies on Cattle. Willis 
N. Bruce. February, 1952. 11 pp. 


Home Pools and Homing Behavior of Smallmouth Black Bass in 
Jordan Creek. R. Weldon Larimore. June, 1952. 11 pp. 


An Inventory of the Fishes of Jordan Creek, Vermilion County, 
Illinois. R. Weldon Larimore, Quentin H. Pickering, and Leonard 
Durham. August, 1952. 26 pp. 


Sport Fishing at Lake Chautauqua, near Havana, Illinois, in 1950 
and 1951. William C. Starrett and Perl L. McNeil, Jr. August, 
1952. 31 pp. 


Some Conservation Problems of the Great Lakes. Harlow B. Mills. 
October, 1953. 14 pp. 


Some Facts About Illinois Snakes and Their Control. Philip W. 
Smith. November, 1958. 8 pp. 


A New Technique in Control of the House Fly. Willis N. Bruce. 
December, 1958. 8 pp. 


Single copies of publications in the Biological Notes series listed above 
are available without cost from the Illinois Natural History Survey, 


Urbana, Illinois. 


SOME RECENT PUBLICATIONS 


A.—ILLINOIS NATURAL HISTORY SURVEY BULLETIN. 


Volume 25, Article 1—Characteristics of Residual Insecticides Toxic to the 
ee Fly. By Willis N. Bruce. July, 1949. 32 pp., frontis. -+ 14 figs., 
bibliog. 

Volume 25, Article 2.—Effect of Permanent Flooding in a River-Bottom Timber 
Area. By Lee E. Yeager. August, 1949. 34 pp., frontis. + 21 figs., bibliog. 

Volume 25, Article 3.—Canada Geese of the Mississippi Flyway, with special 
reference to an Illinois flock. By Harold C. Hanson and Robert H. Smith. 
March, 1950. 144 pp., frontis. + 82 figs., bibliog. 

Volume 25, Article 4.—Biology of the White Crappie in Illinois. By Donald F. 
Hansen. August, 1951. 56 pp., frontis. + 13 figs., bibliog. 

Volume 25, Article 5—Commercial and Sport Fishes of the Mississippi River 
Between Caruthersville, Missouri, and Dubuque, Iowa. By Paul G. Barnickol 
and William C. Starrett. September, 1951. 84 pp., frontis. + 10 figs., bibliog. 

Volume 25, Article 6.—Tularemia, Weather, and Rabbit Populations. By 
Ralph E. Yeatter and David H. Thompson. June, 1952. 32 pp., frontis. + 
29 figs., bibliog. 

Volume 26, Article 1—The Mayflies, or Ephemeroptera, of Illinois. By B. D. 
Burks. May, 1953. 216 pp., frontis. + 395 figs., bibliog. 


B.—ILLINOIS NATURAL HISTORY SURVEY CIRCULAR. 


32.—Pleasure With Plants. By L. R. Tehon. February, 1952. (Fourth print- 
ing, with revisions.) 32 pp., frontis. + 9 figs. 

39.—How to Collect and Preserve Insects. By H. H. Ross. June, 1953. (Fourth 
printing, with alterations.) 59 pp., frontis. + 65 figs. 

41.—How to Recognize and Control Termites in Illinois. By B. G. Berger. 
February, 1947. (Reprinted without text revision, April, 1950.) 44 pp., 
frontis. + 82 figs. 

42—Bird Dogs in Sport and Conservation. By Ralph E. Yeatter. December, 
1948. 64 pp., frontis. + 40 figs. 

43.—Peach Insects of Illinois and Their Control. By Stewart C. Chandler. 
December, 1950. 638 pp., frontis. + 39 figs. 

44—The Drug Plants of Illinois. By Leo R. Tehon. July, 1951. 135 pp., 
frontis. + 262 figs. 

45.—Housing for Wood Ducks. By Frank C. Bellrose. April, 1953. 47 pp., 
frontis. + 33 figs. 


C.—ILLINOIS NATURAL HISTORY SURVEY MANUAL. 


2.—Fieldbook of Illinois Land Snails. By Frank Collins Baker. August, 1939. 
166 pp., color frontis. + 170 figs., 8 pls. $1.00. 

3.—Fieldbook of Native Illinois Shrubs. By Leo R. Tehon. December, 1942. 
307 pp., 4 color pls. + 72 figs., glossary, index. $1.25. 


List of available publications, about 400 titles, mailed on request. 


Single copies of ILtino1s Narurat History Survey publications for which no 
price is listed will be furnished free of charge to individuals until the supply be- 
comes low, after which a nominal charge may be made. More than one copy 
of any free publication may be obtained without cost by educational institutions and 
official organizations within the State of Illinois; prices to others on quantity orders 
of these publications will be quoted upon request. 


Address orders and correspondence to the Chief 
ILLINOIS NATURAL HISTORY SURVEY 
Natural Resources Building, Urbana, Illinois 


Payment in the form of money order or check made out to 
State Treasurer of Illinois, Springfield, Illinois, 
must accompany requests for those publications on which a price is set. 


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