ALBERT R. MANN
LIBRARY
New York State Colleges
OF
Agriculture and Home Economics
Cornell University
Cornell University Library
TX 728.S478
The menu book; 4th ed. of PracW^^^^^
82 156
Cornell University
Library
The original of this book is in
the Cornell University Library.
There are no known copyright restrictions in
the United States on the use of the text.
http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924003582156
Lemco
and the Chafing Dish
Absolutely essential to success in
Chafing-Dish Cookery, is Lemco.
All culinary authorities are agreed
on ,tbis.
Prime beef stock always ready,
pure and fresh, Lemco enables
dainty little dishes to be readily
prepared, which, without it, would
be iinpossible or troublesome.
No added flavour to Lemco, it
is just pure concentrated beef
essence which cannot be told
from fresh beef stock in savoury,
curry, or ragout.
"tm
i!S.Sm!-\-
Cl)e menu Book
FOURTH EDITION OF
PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY
A MENU COMPILER
AND REGISTER
OF DISHES
JCopyrigUei IS91)
BY
C: HERMAN SENN, G.C.A.,
Inspaotop and Consulting Chef, National Training School of
Cookery, 1892-1908.
AUTHOR OF "RECHKRCHK COOKERV," "THE NEW CENTURY
COOKERV BOOK," "RECHERCHE SIDE DISHES/* "THE PRACTICAL
COOKERY MANUAL," ETC., ETC.
LONDON, S.W. :
THE FOOD &■ COOKERY PUBLISHING AGENCY,
WESTMINSTER.
mdcdviii.
PREFACE.
The ever-growing necessity for variety in our menus
'mgels us to glean new ideas and fresh help from every
•^ssible source.
Vhe object, therefore, of this culinary handbook is in
the'Bj-st place to assist caterers, restaurateurs, managers,
maltres d'h6tel, chefs, stewards, head waiters, and house-
keepers to plan and compile menus of every kind of meal
with greater ease, and to enable them to have at their
disposal a k -ge and constant variety of seasonable and
suitable dishes.
Every course, from hors-d'oeuvre to dessert, has been
exhaustively treated ; and the work • is compiled so as
to give at a glance an almost infinite variety of every
possible kind of dish that can be introduced into a menu.
In most cases the - requisite mode of cooking, the
garniture and style of dressing or dishing up, is briefly
described. The book should not, however, be confused
with a book of recipes, for its raison d'Ure is to enable
1;libse who can cook or superintend cooking to draft
menus with greater ease, and to give each dish its proper
French name.
The adoption of French names in menus has become
fashionable because most of the typical French dishes
have become fully naturalised in the kitchens and on
the tables of this country. It therefore becomes the
duty of all persons interested in culinary matters to
know how to describe them in correct French.
The author can hardly expect that this book will
bring about a revolution in the customs of gastroilomy,
but he does hope that its use wUl be the meians of intro-
ducing greater variety into the daily menus, and, if
possible, economy in the preparation of dishes. ' Hence
its mission should, if for no other purpose, prove practical
and useful to such who .avoid ordinary cookery books
and fight shy of scientific culinary treatises. If such
an aim is achieved the author's efforts will be amply
rewarded.
The present, enlarged] edition contaiiis a special chapter
on the Art of Menu Compilation, as well as over 2,000
additional dishes.
C. HERMAN SENN. .
Insist upon
/<-
the Best Cocoa.
(
VAN
HOUTEN'S
is the
BEST
GOES FARTHEST.
tffe
PRINCIPAL CONTENTS.
Part i.
THE MENU.
PAGE
The Origin' of Menus . . ; .
9
Modern Megus
lO
-The Art of Compiling Menus
12
Selection of, and naming the Dishes
14
When Food is in Season
16
Names of Food in English and French
19
'Spelling and Pronunciation of Principal Words usee
in French Menus
21
Luncheon and Dfejfiuner Menus
. 26
Dinner — Le Diner " . .
30
■Specimen Dinner Menus for various
Seasons
31
Royal Menus
41
Table d'Hote Menus
46
'Private Dinner Menus
48
Supper, and Supper Menus . .
52
Ball Supper Menus
55
Menu with Quotations
57
Part ii. '
HORS=D'(EUVRE.
Plain Hors d'CEuvre (Side Dished)
58
Hors d'CEuvre Garni
60
Part in.
SOUPS— POTAQES.
Broths — Bouillons
68
Clear Soups — Consommes
69
Creams — Crimes "^ . . ....
80
. .
83
PRINCIPAL CONTENTS.
Part iv.
" '
THE FI5H COURSE-LES POISSONS.
■'■f>.':ri "•;»
PAGE
Fish Dishes — Plats de Poissoa
92
Cod— Cabillaud
.. 95
Herring — Hareng
.. 98
Lobster — Homard
.. 98
Oysters — Hultres
; . . . 100
Mackerel — Maquereau
. . lOI
Whiting — ^Merlam
. . 102
Red Mullet — Rougets
. . 104
Salmon — Saumon
... 105
Soles — Soles
.. 109
Turbot— Turbot
.. 119
Part v.
SAUCES.
Alphabetical Order of Sauces
121
Part vi.
QARNITURES.
Gamishings^for Fish, Meat, and Poultry
. .. 138
Part vi
THE ENTREE COURSE.
Special Light Entrees and new Vegetable
Entrees 145
Light Entries and Hot Side Dishes .
147
Timbales and Darioles . .
.. i^;
Meat Entrees
.. 156
Entr6es of Beef
.. 158
Entrees of Veal (du Veau)
.. 166
Entries of Lamb (d'Agneau) . .
.. 176
Entrfees of Mutton (de Mouton)
• • ir9
Entries of Pork (de Pore)
.. 187
Entrees of Poultry (de Volaille)
. . 190
Entrees of Game (de Gibier) . .
.. 2 ID
Cold Entrees (Entries froides)
. . 222
Part viii.
REMOVES— RELEVES.
Beef — Boeuf
Pork and Ham — Pore and Jambon . .
Veal — Veau
Tui'key — Dinde, Poularde, etc.
229
233
-34
23s
PRINCIPAL CONTENTS.
Part ix.
THE VEQETABLE COURSE.
PAGE
Artichokes — Artichauts
• .237
Asparagus^-Asperges . .
. 238
Egg Plants— Aubergines
. 240
Carrots — Carottes
. 241
Celery— Celeri
. 24i
Mushrooms — ChamDiffiions
• 243
• 244
Cabbages — Choux
Cauliflower — Choux-fleur
• 245
Cucumber — Concombre
. 246
Endive and Spinach — Epinard
• 247
Broad, Haricot, and French Beans . .
. 248
Lettuces, Lentils, and Turnips
. 249
Green Peas and Onions
. 250
Potatoes — Pommes de Terre . .
• 251
Salsify and Tomatoes . . , . . . , ...
■ 257
-Jerusalem Artichokes and Truffles
• 259
' Part x.
ROAST— ROTI,
Poultry — Volaille
Game— Gibier (Wild Poultry)
iPour-Footed Game
Part xi.
SALADS— SALADES.
Salads — Salades
Entremets, Notes on
Part xii.
THE SWEET COURSE.
260
261
263
263
269
Apricots — Abricots
. . 270
Pine Apples— Ananas
. . 271
Bananas — Bananes
. . 272
Creams and Bavaroises
. . 272
Fritters— Beignets, etc.
■ ■ 274
Borders — Bordures
.. 275
Cherries — Cerises ' . .
. . 276
PRINCIPAL CONTENTS.
THE SWEET COVRS'E.— continued.
Charlottes
PAGE
. . 276
Fruit Compotes
278
Strawberries — Praises .
279
Croutes of Fruit, etc. .
280
Jellies — Gelees . .
280
Melon — Oranges
282
Peaches— P6ches
283
Pears — Poires . .
284
Apples — Pommes
285
Puddings — Poudings .
286
Special Sweet Entremets
^91
Souffles and Omelettes . .
292
Fancy Cakes and Pastry^Gdteaux .
294
Ices — Glacis
298
Part xiii.
THE SAVOURY COURSE.
Fish Savouries . .
Meat Savouries
Vegetable Savouries
Farinaceous and Cheese Savouries
Special Af ter-Dinner Savouries
Dessert and Coffee . .
Part xiv.
EQQS AND OMELETS.
Egg Dishes and Omelets
3H
PART I.
THE MENU.
♦
THE ORIGIN OF MENUS.
Menu is a French word, denoting minute details as
applied to kitchen bill, bill of fare, table card, or pro-
gramme of a meal, its object being^to present a list of
dishes and courses, eatables, and beverages. '
Although the kitchen bill of fare is probably as old as
the art of cooking, our forefathers in past ages had- no
use or need for menus ; they contented themselves with
merely looking at the dishes to judge the nature of the
viands as they were brought to table.
Ancient Rome, and all her glories, according to history,
had enormous feasts and expensive banquets. Untold
wealth was lavished on foods and drinks, and its
culinary triumphs were incomparable to our modern
gastronomic feasts, yet no mention is made of a menu
or bill of fare being in use in those days.
The use of menus was first heard of as being adopted -
for table use in 1541, when, at a banquet given by the
Duke Henry- of Brunswick, his Grace was seen to have
a sheet of paper by the side of his plate, to which he
occasionally referred. One of the duke's guests asked
what the paper was for, and on its being explained that
it was a sort of programme of what they were going to
eat, and by looking through it he could reserve his appe-
tite for those dishes he liked best, the idea was so much
admired that it soon became generally known and
adopted. The old-fashioned bills of fare were usually
written on large cards gaudily ornamented with gastro-
nomic symbols, etc. ; they were, however, of such a size
that only one copy could be conveniently placed at each
end of the table.
Another version is that Count Hugo de Montfort, at
a dinner given in the year- 1498, was noticed to have a
piece of written parchment near his plate, which he
frequently consulted, and when asked what it was he
10 THE MENU BOOK.
explained that he had ordered the head cook to write
on it the various dishes that were being sent from the
kitchen.
The size of these parchments and paper lists gradually
diminished, and, as they became smaller, larger numbers
were placed at the table, until the present form of menu
was generally introduced, when each guest is provided
with a written or printed menu card.
Modern Menus.
Modern menus, as a rule, are much more prettily got
up than those of olden times. In the matter of material
for menus, white paper is mostly used, but more expensive
material is also employed. I have seen some made of
silk, papier-mache ; some in the form of shells, books,
almanacks, cigars, cigarettes, matchboxes, newspapers,
maps, post-cards, bank-notes, blank covers, envelopes,
etc. Menus in the shape of envelopes are particularly
pretty, and now very much in favour. One takes the
form of a small, deUcately-coloured envelope of thin
cardboard, decorated with gold ; the flap is engraved
with a motto, crest, name of host or hostess, some flowers,
or a knife and fork crossed, and a sprig of herbs; the
post-mark is " Bon App6tit." On the address side is
a stamp in gold, with some gastronomic design, and a
post-mark bearing the name of the place where the meal
is given, with the respective date and name of the diner.
The enclosure is, of course, the menu itself.
Hand-painted menus on paper, parchment, and satin
are in great favour in all society circles. Some of the
newest have a miniature of the host or hostess painted
in the centre, and are occasionally the work of noted
artists.
In England, America, and France much art and
luxury have been lavished on menu cards. Parchment
of the Middle Ages competes with Japanese rice-paper.
Some menus, with their seals and ribbons, are like a
charter of nobility, whilst others are in the form of
beautiful miniature fans.
For some time there has been a reaction against extra-
vagant luxury, which is being replaced by a simpUcitj-
not less excessive. Sometimes the names of the dishes
are written by hand on thick paper, without any orna-
mentation. As usual, the best kind are between these
MODERN. MENUS. ii
excesses of ostentation and severity. Menus of out-of-
the-way and awkward shapes are at all times to be
avoided, because they encumber the table, and are
difficult to consult.
Skint dA Afffi^ A- J^ 'vniC<MUAici£:
&3fijdjslOUi ^jCA^MimMaaji .
SX^sicAo j^iaAUfieVCea .
A TYPICAL FRENCH DINNER MENU.
Without microscopical print, they should be suffi-
ciently small to be readable without much difficulty,
and not add to the embarrassment caused by a succession
of glasses and other articles on the table. The menu
card is a simple accessory, and should be treated as such.
This rule ought to be taken into consideration when
ordering the menu cards.
12 THE MENU BOOK.
The Art of Compiling Menus.
To be able to compose or construct a menu is an art
learnt only by experience ; it is by no means as easy
as some people imagine.
But few of the guests partaking of an elaborately
prepared banquet have any idea of the amount of skill
that is devoted to the composition of the menu, selecting
choice provisions, and planning the dishes so that all
have the desired harmonising effect which bring about
the gastronomic success of the banquet. It is, of course,
comparatively easy to make out a menu for a luncheon
or a small dinner consisting merely of soup, fish, joint,
vegetable, and a sweet— for such presents no difficulty
to the average cook or housekeeper.
But when it comes to arranging a first-class and well-
planned dinner of recherche character, it is quite a
different matter, for then every course, from the hors-
d'ceuvre to the entremets, present more or less difficulties,
especially tg. J^ose inexperienced in the art of menu
composition. There are many hard-and-fast rules in the
gasfi-onomic laws which must be observed if one is to
attain success, for a badly-composed menu is likely to
spoil the best dinner. That great gastronomic and
culinary artist, Brillat-Savarin, truly said : " Menu nial
fait, diner perdu."
To be able to plan or compile a recherche luncheon,
dinner or supper, is regarded as a high accomplishment,
for, as already stated, much of the success of a. repast
depends upon its menu.
The arrangement of an elaborate dinner is an art in
itself, and consists in selecting the various courses so
that the dishes harmonise with each other ; the chief
requirements being that : —
1. Each dish shall be different in composition and
inode of cooking.
2. The composition of the individual dishes must be
excellent ; while they should be well cooked, tastefully
dressed, and yet distinct in character.
3. The harmonising effect is obtained by so arranging
the dishes that each one is distinct from the other, bearing
no relation in appearance to the preceding or following
dishes.
4. A judicious selection of the raw materials, having
THE ART OF COMPILING MENUS. 13
regard to the season of the year, must be made in all
cases, else the menu of a meal may easily be marred.
IS99 fiiesicr nua
superior dry
1888 ChGlcau Rloiiioil
Roisdiilil SiMol
b'i^mn
Caolar frals
Consomme am qusnellcs kuMa
Cruile au bleu
See. bordeaux rouge
Foie d'ole sauii
la j/iirSe'Soubisc'
CImbale Gourjoin
Conard rouennis
Solade romaine
Compole
SooffiS rculs a I'flncnas
Welsh Rarebit
Frails
(Bocca
3 0(%i!)re I'l
MBND OF A BECHEECHfi PRIVATE DINNER.
14 THE MENU BOOK.
5. The various meats and other more important
materials forming one course must not be repeated in
the same menu from one course to another.
6. The various kinds of sauces employed in the pre-
parations, and serving as accompaniments to the dishes,
must each be distinctly different in colour, taste, and
flavour.
It is well to remember that tne true estimate of the
value of a menu as a literary composition is not always
obtained by observing the attention given to it by the
guest at a dinner table, for at such a time the average
diner is engaged in concentrating his whole mind on a
rapid analysis of the good things present and to come.
It is often later, in some leisured moment, that the menu
is read with a critical eye, and if found the least worthy
from a literary point of view, is treasured as an interesting
souvenir of a memorable occasion.
Menus are planned for every meal, breakfast, luncheon,
dinner, and supper, but of all these the dinner menu is
of the greatest importance, and the most difficult.
For special occasions, such as ball suppers, dinner or
luncheon parties, etc., the menu is usually prepared a
day or more in advance, so that the needful provisions
may be purchased and other necessary arrangements
made, thus allowing ample leisure to get everything
ready in good time, and avoiding much confusion when
the moment for cooking and serving arrives.
The menu, it is hardly necessary to say, must in all
cases be strictly followed.
Selection of Dishes.
In compiling a menu it is necessary to study the variety
of dishes, and their selection, for each dish should vary-
both in colour and taste from those served before or after.
The character of dishes must be retained throughout ;
sauces (except sauces served with fish) should correspond
in taste and colour with the viands with which they
are intended to be served. If two soups appear on a
menu, one ought to be clear and the other thick ; should
the thick soup be a pur6e of vegetables, the clear
soup must contain no vegetable roots as garnishing.
When two or more fish are to be served, the first, as
a rule, is boiled, and generally a large fish, such as turbot,
salmon, cod, etc. ; the next one would be a small fish.
NAMING THE DISHES. 15
either fried or broiled. Whitebait are often served as a
third dish.
The entrfees should always be so classified that light
dishes, such as rissoles, bouchees, croquettes, quenelles,
kromeskis, etc., are served first,
If there are two removes, poultry is served before the
butcher's meat.
The cardinal point is to have all dressed removes
served before the plain roasted ones.
What is called the second service on a menu includes
the roast, the savoury, and the sweet entremets, the
dessert, and cheese. When two or more sweets are
served, the first one should be hot and the other cold.
If fancy savouries are given, they come in after the
sweets, for they are intended to prepare the palate for
the choice wines which usually follow a good dinner.
Naming the Dishes.
In preparing a bill of fare for a large dinner, it is advis-
a)3le to avoid such dishes as are difficult to dress when
done in a great number, for they will cause complication
and needless confusion in the kitchen, and often lead to
disorganised service. It is also most unwise to use
new names of dishes which are not known, or which
may be known under a different title, for they will only
puzzle the diner, who might not know the standard
names of old dishes. Avoid also the use of pompous
names of dishes, especially when inexpensive in character,
for they often lead to confusion and disappointment.
The names of high-standing personalities, towns,
countries, etc., are applied in connection with many
dishes ; the French cuisine especially has the names
given to dishes in honour of men who gained their
celebrity either by their talent as diplomats, states-
men, soldiers, artists, or such as have distinguished
themselves by their gastronomic or epicurean merits.
Hence we have such names in connection with certp,in
dishes as LucuUus, Savarin, Louis XV., Soubise,
Richelieu, Cardme, Maintenon, Cond6, Colbert, .Villeroy,
Talleyrand, Nesselrode, Demidoff, Marie-LOuise, Montglas.
Victoria, etc.
These names, as well as very many others registered, in
this book, are associated with various culinary preparations,
and are recognised by cooks of all nations.
1 6 THE MENU BOOK.
There are, unfortunately, some cooks in the habit of
altering the genuine names of dishes, to which they
apply some other high-sounding names, in order to
make themselves famous, but they only succeed in
making themselves look ridiculous in the eyes of a
real gourmet, who is not likely to be thus deceived.
If, however, the composition of a certain dish is due
to the talent and initiative of a cook, then the case
is different, and he or she will have a perfect right
to name such a dish according to his fancy.
The foregoing remarks show that the composition of
a menu may mar or make the success of a dinner.
Defectively composed menus can often compromise the
reputation of a good chef. Although the menu may be
of little use to some people, it is indispensable to con-
noisseurs who understand the language of the kitchen,
for they will be able to judge the kind of dinner on
analysing the menu, and by so doing be able to give
their verdict as to the capacity of the chef, according to
the arrangement of the dishes and the combination of
the viands.
WHEN FOOD IS IN SEASON.
Arr.\nged i^ Alphabeticai, Order.
The following is a table showing the period when the
principal foods are in prime condition and best obtainable
m the markets.
When marketing it is well to remember that the food
most seasonable is usually that which is most plentiful,
most wholesome, and as a rule the most reasonable in
price. It is well to remember that a number of the
articles named can be had at almost any time of the
year, though not, strictly speaking, in season.
Apples . . . . . . September to May
Apricots . . . . . . August to September
Artichokes (Globe) . . Januarj' to April
Artichokes (Jerusalem) . . October to February
Asparagus (Giant). . .. February to July
Asparagus (Sprue) . . January to July
Barberries . . . . . . September to November
Barbel . . . . . . August to February
Bass . . . . . . May to September
Blackberries . . . . September to October
Black Cock . . . . October to December
Broad Beans . . . . July to August
Broccoli Sprouts . . . . October to March
WHEN FOOD IS IN SEASON.
17
Brussels Sprouts.
bullaces
Capsicums . .
Carp
Carrots (New)
Cauliflowers
Celeriac
Celery
Cherries
Cherries (Montreal)
Chestnuts . .
Chickens, Spring ,
Cygnets (Norfolk)
Cobnuts
Codfish
Cranberries
Crawfish
Crayfish
Cucumb|;rs . .
Currants, English
(red, white, and blaclc
Currants, French
Damsons
-Dawsons
Ducks, Wild
Ducklings . .
Eels
Endive
Fieldfare . .
Figs, Green
Filberts
Flageolets . .
Flounders . ,
Foie-Gras . .
Fowl, Wild
French Beans
Geese
Geese, Wild
Gooseberries, Green
Gooseberries, Ripe
Goslings
Grapes, Almeira
Grapes, French
Greengages
Grouse
Halibut
Hares
Hares, Grey
Herrings, Fresh
Indian Corn
John Dories
Kale
September to February
September to November
Septenlber to October
July to February
May to June
March to November
October to March
September to February
June to September
May to August ■
November to January
April to June
May to July ■
September to February •
September to February '
November to January
May to July •■
July to February •
May -to September
June to September
May to July -
September to October
September to October '
August to March
March to September
September to May
November to March
November to February ■
August to September
August to October
May to August >,
August to April ■
October. to April'
August to March •
July to October
September to February
September to March-
April to May
June to July
March to September
October to April
September to October
July to September
August to December *
May to January
August to March
October to December -
July to February
August to December
July to April "
December to March •
i8
THE MENU BOOK.
Lamb
Landrails . .
Larks
Lettuces, English
Lettuces, French
Leverets
Lobsters
Mackerel
Maize
Medlars
Melons (Hothouse)
Melons, Rock
Melons, Spanish Water-
Mulberries
Mullet, Grey and Red
Mushrooms
Mussels
Nectarines . .
Oranges
Oranges, Seville . .
Ortolans . .
Oysters
Parsnips
Partridges . .
Partridges, Foreign
Peaches
Pears
Pears, Californian
Peas, English, Green
Perch
Pheasants . .
Pigeons, BorIjeaux
Pike
Pines, St. Michael's
Pintail
Plaice
Plovers' Eggs
Plovers, Golden and Grey
Plums, English
Plums, French
Pomegranates
Pork . .
Potatoes, New Kidney
Ptarmigans . .
Prairie Hens
Prawns
Pumpkins . .
Quails
Quinces
Raspberries
Red Cabbage
Reeves
January to July
October to February
August to February
April to September
December to March ■
August to March ^
July to September
April to December
August to December -
September to October
August to September ■
August to September
October to March
August to September -
July to October
March to October
August to March •.
August to October ■
November to June s
February to March >
June to August »
September to April
September to April
September to Februarj'
February to June '
August to October
August to December
November to April ^
August to September
July to February
October to February
August to April
July to February
October to April
September to March ■
May to January •
April to May -
August to March -
August to September
July to August
October to November
September to April
March to May
December to May •
February to April •
April to August
September to October
June to August
October to November
June to September
September to Jauuarj'
August to September -
NAMES OF FOOD IN ENGLISH &■ FRENCH. 19
Rhubarb, Forced
Rhubarb, Natural
Ruffs
Shrimps
Salmon
Salsify
Savoys^
Scarlet Runners.
Scallops
Skate
Snipe
Spinach
Sprats
Strawberries
Sturgeon, Royal .
Tangerine Oranges
Teal
Tench
Tomatoes
Trout
Turkeys
.Vegetable Marrow
Venison
Walnuts
Whitebait
Whiting
Widgeons
Woodcocks
December to May ■
April to July
August to Septernber '
April to September
February to October
Defcember to March
October to March '
July to October ■
October to April ■
October to May ■
August to March •
March to December
November to April--
June to September
September to March •
November to February
September to March -
July to February
March to December
February to September
September to February
August to October *
May to October
September to December
February to August
May to January
August to March
August to March
NAMES OP FOOD IN ENQUSH AND FRENCH,
English.
Anchovy
Artichoke
Asparagus
Bacon
Beans
Beef
Beetroot
Brains
Broccoli
Brussels
sprouts
Butter
Cabbage
Calf's head
Caper
Capon
Cardoon
Carrbt
Cauliflowei
Caviare
Celery
French.
A nchois
Artichaut
Asperges
Lard
Fives, haricots
Bett^rave
Cervelles
Brocoli
Chou de Brux-
elles
Beurre
Chou
Tete de Veau
Cdpre
Chapon
Cardan
Carotte
Chpufleur
Caviar
Celeri
English.
French
Cheese
Frontage
Chicken
Poulet
Chic-chicken
Poussin
Cod
Cabillaud
Cod (salt)
Morue
Cos lettuce
Romaine
Coffee
Cafe
Cress
Cresson
Cucumber
Concombre
Cutlet
Cotelette
Duck
Canard
Duckling
Caneton
Eel
Anguille
Egg
CEuf
Egg-plant
A uiergine
Endive
Chicorie
Fillet
Filet
Fish ■
Poisson
Game
Gibier
Garlic
Ail
Gherkin
Cornichon
THE MENU BOOK.
Goose
Die
Poultry
Volaille
Goose-liver
Foie-Cras
Pullet
Poularde
Gosling
Oison
Pumpkin
Potiron
Grey mullet
■ Mulet
Rabbit
Lapin
Gudgeon
Goujon
Radish
Radis
Guinea-fowl Pintade
Red mullet
Rouget
Haddock
Merluche
Rib
Cote
Halibut
Fletan '
Roe
Laitance
Ham
Jambon
Saddle
Selle
Hare
Lievre
Sago
Sagou
Herring
Hareng
Salmon
Saumon
Horseradish
Raifort
Salt
Sel
Kale
Chou-frise
Sausage
Saucisse
Kidney
Rdgnon
Seakale
Chou de mer
Lamb
Agneau
Semolina
Semoule
Lark
Mauvietie
Sirloin
A loyeau
Leek
Poireau
Skate
Raie
Lettuce
Laitue
Smelt
Eperlan
Liver
Foie
Snail
Escargot
Lobster
Homard
Snipe
Becassine
Mackerel
Maquereau
Soft roes
Laitances
Meat
Viande
Sorrel
Oseille
Milk
Lait
Spinach
Epinard
Mushroom
Champignon
Sturgeon
Esturgeon
Mussels
Monies .j
Sucking Pig
Cochon de lait
Mustard
Moutarde
Sugar
Sucre
Mutton
Mouton
Sweetbread
Ris de veau
Onion
Oignon
Teal
Sarcelle
Ox-tail
Queue deBoeuj
' Tongue
Langue
Oyster
Huitre
Trout
Truite
Parsley
Persil
Truffles
Truffes
Parsnip
Panais
Turkey
Dinde
Partridge
Perdrix
Turnip
Navet
Peas
Pais
Turtle -
Tortue
Pheasant
Faisan
Veal
Veau
Pigeon
Pigeon
Vegetable
Courge d la
Plaice
Plie
marrow
moelle
Plover
Phwier
Vegetables
Legumes
Plum
Prune
Venison
Venaison
Pork-chop
Cotelette di
Whitebait
Blanchaille
pore
Whiting
Mertans
Potato
Pomme de
Widgeon
Sarcelle
ierre
Woodcock
Btcasse
Fruit.
Almond
A mande
Currant liaison de
Angelica
A ngelique
Corinl/ie
Apple
Pomme
Damson Prune de damas
Apricot
Abricot
Date Datte
Banana
Banane
Fig Figue
Cherry
Cerise
Gooseberry GroseiUe
Chestnut
Marron
Grape Raisin
Cranberry
Airelh
Greengage Reine-Claudf
SPELLING AND PRONUNCIATION.
Plum Prune
Prune Pruneau
Quince Coing
Raisin Raisin sec
Raspberries Framboises
Rliubarb Rhubarbe
Strawberry Praise
Tomato Tomat
Pineapple Ananas Walnuts Noix
Lemon
Citron
Medlar
Nifle
Melon
Melon
Mulberry-
Mure
Nut
Noix
Orange
Orange
Peach
Peche
Pear
Poir
SPELLINQ AND PRONUNCIATION OF
PRINCIPAL WORDS USED IN FRENCH MENUS.
Tlie custom of writing menus for lunclieons, dinners
or suppers is one of long standing, not only in this country,
but in all parts of the civilised world, although there are
many people who regard it with a certain amount of
prejudice. Those who go abroad or frequent first-class
hotels, clubs, and restaurants, are familiarised with the
langue de cuisine ; but the occasional diner is frequently
at a loss to understand not only the terms and phrases
used in the compilation of the menu, but also their
correct pronunciation. It is a recognised fact that we
owe much of the advancement and development of
cookery to the French, who excel in the culinary art ;
and with the introduction of Special dishes and processes
of food preparation, we have also to a certain extent
become acquainted with many of the ordinary culinary
terms used in the French fawgwoge, which, as far as menus
are concerned, has -become the fashion, notwithstanding
the inconvenience which the average Englishman feels
in consequence, tt is, however, a matter of difficulty to
give the correct rendering of the phonetic pronunciation
of French words, on account of there being in English no
equivalents in many instances for the sounds in French.
The accents must receive especial attention in writing
or reading menus, as the meaning of a word may be
completely changed by its use or omission. At the
same time, it must be observed that there is, in general,
no especial stress of voice on any one syllable in French,
even when an accent is placed over a letter in that
syllable. The accent determines the sound or pronun-
ciation of the letter alone.
The following suggestions and explanations having
reference to the various courses comprising a luncheon
or dinner menu may prove helpful, not only in the
compilation of the latter, but also as an aid to the correct
interpretation and pronunciation * of the phraseology
generally in vogue.
* It ,is, however, impossible to give exact equivalents to the French «,
the e in many instances, the ot, and the om. Our phonetic rendering is
approximate only. -
22 THE MENU BOOK.
The following are a few examples of the names of
dishes and words used in French menus, with their
approximate pronunciations : —
Aigre (ehgr), souy, acid or piquant.
Aigrefin (eh-gre-fan), haddock.
k la diable (ah lah dee-abl), devilled.
k la (AH lah), in the style of ; after the manner of.
Alose (ah-lose), shad.
Aloyau (al-oy-yo), sirloin of beef.
Alouette (al-ou-et), lark.
Ananas (an-a"n-ah), pineapple.
Anguille (an-geeye), eel.
Aspic (ahs-pke'k), savoury jelly.
au bleu (o bluh), stewed in wine or in vinegar and water,
with herbs.
au gratin (o grah-tan), scalloped.
au kari (o karee), curried.
au maigre (o mehgr), dish in which no meat is used.
au naturel (o nah-tu-rehl), uncooked or boUed in water.
Baba (bahbah), spongy yeast cake like savarin, but con-
taining currants, or soaked in rum syrup.
Bfearnaise (ber-nehz), rich white herb sauce with egg-yolk
liaison.
Becasse (beh-kas), woodcock.
Bechamel (beh-shah-mel), French rich white sauce — the
premier foundation sauce.
Beignets (bayn-yeh), fritters.
Beurre-noir (berr-nooahr), butter cooked to a brown colour.
Bisque (beesq), thick soup, made from shell fish.
Blanchailles (blan-shy), whitebait.
Bouch6es (boo-shay), small puff paste patties filled with
minced meat, fish, etc.
Bouilli (boo-ee), fresh boiled beef.
Brais6 (breh-zeh), a combination of roasting and stewing.
Broche (broh-sh), roasted before a fire on the spit.
Brunoise (bruh-nuwahs), a class of French thick soups.
, Cabillaud (cab-ee-yo), codfish.
Cafe (kah-feh), coffee.
Caille (kiey), quail.
Canard (can-ar), duck.
Caneton (can-ehton), duckling.
Celeri (seh-le-ree), celery.
Cerises (ser-ease), cherries.
Canape (kah-nah-peh), fried or toasted pieces of bread.
Cepes (sehp), a species of large mushroom.
Cervelle de veau (serve-el-de-vo), calf's brains.
Champignons (cham-i>een-yon), mushrooms.
Chartreuse (shar-trerrz), a liqueur, also a mould of
savoury meat and vegetable or sweet.
Chaudfroid (shoh-frwa), a name for dishes which are
prepared hot, coated with sauce, dressed, and served cold,
usually garnished with aspic and truffles, etc.
SPELLING AND PRONUNCIATION. 23
Chevreuil (shev-retjye), roebuck, roe-deer.
Chicor6e au jus (she-co-reh-oh ju), endive stewed in stock.
Choux (shoo), cabbages.
Civet de.Lidvre (see-vay de Lee-ehvre), jugged hare.
Colbert (kholbehr), a French clear soup and certain other
dishes, named after Jean Baptiste Colbert, a clever states-
man in the reign of Louis XIV. of France, 1619-1683.
Compote (kom-poht), stewed fruit or game.
Consoinm6 (kon-some-meh), clear gravy soup, clarified
double stock.
Coquilles (coquee), light fish or meat entrees served in
shells.
CrSme Crevette (crayme crev-et), shrimp soup.
Crfepes (CREHPE),- pancakes.
Croquette (kroh-ket), Savoury minced shapes rolled in
breadcrumbs and fried.
Croutons (kroo-ton), sippets of fried bread.
Dejeuner (deh-jerr-neh), 7«»cA or luncheon.
Dinde (dand), hen turkey.
Dindon (dandon), young turkey or turkey poult.
Ecrevisse (eh-crev-esse), crayfish.
Entree (on-treh), a course of dressed dishes, or side dish
for the first course.
Entremets (entreumeh), name of a course of dishes com-
prising sweets and savouries,
Epaule d'agneau (eh-pole dan-yo), shoulder of lamb.
Eperlan (ehper-lan), smelt.
Epinard (ehpin-ar), spinach.
Faisan (fay-san), pheasant.
Farce (farce), stuffing or forcemeat.
Feves (fayve), broad beans.
Filet de bceuf (fee-leh de-beuf), fillet of beef.
Foie de veau (fwa de-vo), calf's liver.
Fondue (fon-du), cheese melted with butter and served hot.
Fraises (frayze), strawberries.
FriciTssee (free-kah-seh), a white stew of fish or poultry.
Frites (freet), fried.
Gateaux (gahto), cakes.
Gelee (jeh-leh), jelly.'
Gigot de Mouton (gee-go de mooton), leg of mutton.
Glace (glahs), ice.
Glace (glah-seh), iced or glazed.
Goujon (goojon), gudgeon..
Grive (grebve), thrush.
Gras Double (graa doobl), tripe.
Hachis~(HAH-SHEE), hash or mince. ^
Haricot (hah-ree-koh), haricot beans or meat stewf4 with
vegetables.
Haricots (arry-co), beans.
Homard (ome-ar), lobster.
54 THE MENU BOOK.
Hors-d'a3Uvre (or-derrvr), small relishes with which
luncheon or dinner begins — appetisers.
Hultre (WEETRE), oyster.
Jambon aux epiuards (jambon oes ay-peen-ar), ham
with spinach.
Julienne (juh-lee-en), finely shredded vegetables used for
clear soup, etc.
Jus (juh), gravy ; liquid unthickened seasoning for roast
meat, etc.
Kromeskies (kroh-mes-kees), chopped meat fried in batter.
Langouste (lan-gooste), crawfish or rock lobster.
Lapereaux (lap-er-roh), rabbits.
Laitue (leh-tu), lettuce, served plain or braised.
Lapin sautfe (la-pan-so-teh), stewed rabbit.
Maquereau (mac-er-ro), mackerel.
Mauviettes (mauvi-yet), larks.
Mayonnaise (my-yo-nehz), the principal salad sauce,
composed of yolk of egg, oil, and vinegar.
Menu (MEH-NEU), bill of fare or list of dishes.
Meringue (meh-rang-g), light-baked egg crust made with
frosted white of egg and sugar.
Merlan (iwARE-LAij), whiting.
Merluche (mare-luche), smoked haddock.
Morue (more-u), salt cod.
Navet (nav-ay), turnips.
Noix (nwa), walnuts.
Noisettes (nwa-set), nuts.
Nougat (noo-gah), edible paste of sugar and almonds.
Oie (wa), goose.
Oseille (o-zay), sorrel.
Pate (pah-t), paste of meat, fish or fruit.
Pat6 (PAH-TEH), pie, patty.
Peche (PEYSH), peach.
Petits four (puh-tee foor), small pastry of the sponge cake
variety, decorated with sugar, etc.
Petits pois (PUH-TEE PWA), peas.
Perdreaux (pear-drow), partridges.
Pidce de resistance (pee-es de reh-zees-tons). tite
principal dish of the meal.
Pintade (pan-tahd), guinea fowl.
Poire (pwar), pear.
Pommes (pohm), apples.
Pommes Pailles (pohm p:e), potato straws.
Pommes de Terre (pohm de tare), potatoes
Pommes Nouvelles (pohm noovel), new potatoes
Pommes Rissolees (pohm ree-sole-ay), olivc-shaiieJ
potatoes browned in butter. '^
Potage a I'oseiUe (potaaj ah lo-say), acream soub
with sorrel as garmsh. '^
Potage Parmentier (potaaj par-mon-tyay). potato cream
soup, so-called because Parmentier introduced potatoes
into France. '^
, SPELLING AND PRONUNCIATION. 35
Potage petite marmite (potaaj pee-tee mar-meat), Beef
broth vegetables, served in small earthen pots with garnish.
Potage a la Reine (potaaj ah la ren), Chicken puree
with cream, garnished with small fried bread croHtons.
Potage St. Germain (san-jer-man), green pea soup with
cream.
Potage k la Soubise (soo-beese), puree of omons.
Potage au tomates (oh-to-mat), tomato puree (filtered
soup),
Poularde au riz (poo-lard o ree), boiled chicken with
rice.
Poule au pot (pool o po), a fowl boiled and served with
bourgeois sauce.
Poulet saute (pool-ay so-teh), joints of chicken saute,
with mushrooms, etc.
Pruneaux au riz (prune-o o ree), prunes with rice.
Prunes (preun), prunes.
Pur6e (puh-reh), pulp of vegetables or fruit.
Quartier de pre sale (pray-sal-eh), fore-quarter of South-
down mutton.
Quenelles (quh-nel), pounded meat, poultry or fish mixed
with panade and poached in- stock.
Ragout (rah-goo), brown stew of meat or poultry.
Raie (reh), skate.
Raisin (ra^san), grapes:
Rechauffe (reh-shoh-feh), cold meat warmed up.
Ris-de-veau a la jardiniere (ree-de-vo), sweetbreads gar-
nished with vegetables.
Rissoles (ree-sohl), half-moon shapes of fried minced
pastry containing meat, fish, poultry or game.
Rognons (rohn-yon), kidneys.
Rouget (roo-jeh), red mullet.
Salmis (sahl-mee), a rich brown stew of game.
Saute (soh-teh), tossed in butter ; cooked rapidly.
Souffle (sou-fLeh), pu-ffed ; applied to very light culinary
preparations.
Soupe au choux (soop o shoo), cabbage soup with cream
liaison (thickened with cream).
Soupe au lait (soop o leh), milk soup thickened with
potato puree.
Soupe a i'oignon (soop ah lun-yon), onion soup.
Terrine (teh-eeen), earthen dish ; term applied to dishes
served in such a vessel.
Tete de veau (teht de vo), calf's head.
Timbale- (tam-bal), thimble-shaped moulds applied to
crusted hash, purees, etc., baked or steamed.
Thon (ton), tunny-fish.
Tomates (to-mat), tomatoes.
Truite (trwbete), trout.
Vol-au-vent (vohl-o-vohn), case of pastry in which
stewed meat or fruit t? served.
26 THE MENU BOOK.
LUNCHEON AND LUNCH MENUS.
Menus des Dejeuners "a la Fourchette.
The French have two kinds of dejeuners : one is called
" d la Tasse," being a plain breakfast, and the other
" d la fourchette," which is equivalent to an English
luncheon.
The word " lunch," or " luncheon," is said to be derived
from the Welsh llwne, which is a derivation of lump.
In bygone days lunch or luncheon meant simply a lump
of bread and cheese taken between meals, " a frugal
bit " ; but now the lunch, more especially among the
upper classes, has become a fashionable meal, and one
quite as important as the dinner of former times. Few
meals offer better opportunities for combining smart
little dishes at comparatively small expense than the
lunch or luncheon. There are plenty of dainty dishes which
can be prepared with little trouble, suitable as luncheon
dishes, that can with advantage be brought within the
scope of high-class cookery. The menus given below
show what kinds of dishes are suitable for such repasts.
SPECIMEN MENUS FOR SET LUNCHEONS.
I.
French. English.
Souffle aux HuJtres Oyster Souffle
Cdtelettes de Venaison Venison Cutlets with
aux Marrons Chestnut Puree
Pommes Soufflees Puff Potatoes
G&teau au Chocolat Chocolate Cake
Compote de Figues Stewed Figs
Fromage. Cheese.
II.
Bouillon en tasse Beef Broth in cups
Artichauts k la Chanzy Artichokes with Poached
Entrecote k la Bfearnaise . . -^off-s
Okras aux Tomates Sirloin Steak, Bearnaise-
Bordure Japonaise a la nh^„. ,.^,V"i-
P f, Okras with Tomatoes
TJ-u r, Japanese Border in Jelly
PaiUes au Parmesan cheese Straws
Dessert. Dessert.
LUNCHEON AND LUNCH MENUS. . 27
Dejeuner dinatoire du 30 Septembre 1903.
Oglio.
Pains a la Careme.
Cotelettes d'agneau a la provengale.
Salade a la Helgoland.
Canards de France k I'andalouse.
Gel^e de fruits au vin de Champagne.
Failles de fromage
Fruits.
Dessert.
LUNCHEON MENn OF H.A.M. THE -EMPEROR OF AUSTRIA.
28
THE MENU BOOK.
Dejeuner de Chasse.
French.
Filets de Soles a la
Mayonnaise
Mousse de Homard
frappfe
Boeuf braise i la Gelee
Langue a I'Ecarlate
Filets de Caneton k la
Loraine
Cailles Po616es k la
Parisienne
Faisan en Robe de
Chambre
Salade A la Japonaise
Bordure de Riz aux
Prunes
Gdteaux a I'Africaine
Batons Gougfire
Fromage
Dessert.
Hunt Luncheon.
English.
Fillets of Soles in
Mayonnaise
Iced Lobster Souffle
Braised Beef with Savoury
Jelly
Dressed Ox-tongue
Fillets of Duckling with
Goose-liver Farce
Braised Stuped Quails
Roast Pheasant in Paste
Crust
Japanese Salad
Border of Rice with Stewed
Prunes
African Cakes
Savoury Cheese Fingers
Cheese
Dessert.
MENUS DES DEJEUNERS.
I.
Truites k la McuniSre Trout, Meuniere style
CEufs moUets aux Scrambled Eggs with
fepinards Spinach
Langouste Sauce Tartare Lobster with Tartare Sauce
Lasagnes au Parmesan Cheese Pastry
Beignets de Pommes. Apple-Fritters.
II.
jambou d'York a la Gelee York Ham with Savoury
Veau saute aux
Champignons
Cdtelettes de pre-sale,
vert-pr6
Pur6e de Pommes au
gratin
Omelette aux Confitures.
CEufs a la Meyerbeer
Poulet en CasseroUe
Parmentier
CarrS d'Agneau r6ti
Salade de Laitue
Tartelettes de Reine-
ClauJe.
Jelly
Stewed Veal with
Mushrooms
Mutton Cutlets with Green
Pea Sauce
Scalloped Potatoes
Jam Omelet.
III.
Eggs Meyerbeer style
Chicken in pot with
Potatoes
Roast Neck of Lamb
Lettuce Salad
Greengage Tartlets.
LUNCHEON AND LUNCH MENUS.
29
SPECIAL DEJEUNER OR LUNCHEON MENUS.
Dejeuner du 30 mars.
Consomm6 en tasses
Cotelettes de ris de veau
k la Villeroy
Tournedos, pommes frites
Poulardes a la gelee
salade" parisienne
Haricots verts a I'anglaise
Ananas glace
Failles au Fromage
Dessert. {March)
Dejeuner du 15 Mai.
Consomme double aux
CEufs poches
Tournedos ^ la Rossin
Poussins de Paris grilles
Sauce Diable
Pommes pailles
Salade verte
Omelette en Surprise
{May)
De'jeuner du 16 Juillet.
Consomme frappe en Tasses
OEufs brouilles aux Truffes
Dame de Saumon a la Tartare
Escalopes de Volaille a la Reine
Petits Pois au beurre
Cotelettes d'Agneau k la Russe
Soiurenirs de Praises. {July)
DEJEUNER OR LUNCHEON MENUS.
Hors-d'oeuvre
GEufs brouilles, au Jambon
Boeuf braise aux Nouilles
Sauce piquante
Pdtfe de lidvre
Pouding aux figues
Fromage
Cafe noir.
Saucisson de Foie-gras
Omelette aux Crevettes
Chateaubriand k la Moelle
Pommes de terre a la
maltre d' hotel
Chaudfroid de Faisan
Souffte 4 1' Ananas.
Ecrevisses au Natiirel
Filets de Soles aux
Aubergines
Cotelettes de Pore, Sauce
Robert
Pommes Mirettes
Terrine de Becasse a la
Perigoutdine
Salade de Chicoree
Souffle a la Creole.
{December)
Crevettes, beurre frais
CEufs poches, aux epinards
Escalopes de veau, milanaise
Pommes pailles
Timbale de poirea
30 THE MENU BOOK.
DINNER— LE DINER.
The word " dinner " {diner, f.)is supposed to be a corrup-
tion of dix heures, indicating the hour at which in the days
of Norman rule this meal was taken. In a book published
in 1 5 12, entitled the Household Book, it is stated that
the family rose at six, breakfasted at seven, dined at ten,
supped at four, and closed the gates at nine p.m.
Dinner with all classes forms the principal meal of the
day. The working and middle classes take it at mid-day,
whilst the better classes and fashionable society partake
of it between 6 p.m. and 8 p.m. The aristocracy have
always dined later in the day than the other classes.
The number of courses of a dinner depends on the
circumstances of the host and hostess, but the courses
have increased with time and fashion, whilst the number
of dishes served have decreased ; that is to say, instead
of serving two soups, two or three fish, and as many
entries, not more than one, or at the most two, are now
placed on modern menus.
One must not overlook the fact that the greater the
variety of dishes introduced in a menu, the greater must
be the waste.
The present tendency is for shorter meads — that is,
fewer dishes than formerly ; but the maxim is, " Let there
be choice of excellent quality, well-cooked, and daintily
served."
The gastronomic world of this country owes a debt of
gratitude to H.M. King Edward as regards dinners, for
he has expressed a wish that aX the houses where he
dines dinners should be quickly served, and never last
more than an hour. Hence short dinners have now
become the rule as well as the fashion.
This has a great significance, for the all-important
fact that the dishes selected for a recherche dinner shall
gain in quality what they lose in quantity.
A short resume of the various courses that constitute
a " full-course dinner " is given, under the respective
headings, in order to explain the correct service, suit-
ability, and character of the various dishes belonging
to each cours«.
DINNER~LE DINER.
31
SPECIMEN DINNER MENUS
A SIMPLE MENU.
French. English.
Soup :
Ox-tail
Fish :
Fillets of Cod
{Normandy style)
Entree :
Mutton Cutlets
(Milanese style)
Roast :
Roast Turkey stu'ffed with
Chestnuts
Salad
Sweet :
Viennese Pudding.
Queue de Bceuf
Poisson :
Filets de Cabillaud k la
Normande
Entree :
C6telettes de Mouton k la
Milanaise
Rati :
Dinde rdtie aux Marrons
Salade
Pouding El la Viennoise.
Season — January or February.
Note. — It will be observed that no vegetables are given
in' the above bill of fare. One or -two vegetables should
always be served ; these are selected according to taste
and season. The following, in addition to potatoes, is
a list of vegetables procurable in January : artichokes
(Globe and Jerusalem), brussels sprouts, celery, greens,
savoys, salsify, parsnips, turnips, Spanish onions.
TWELVE MONTHLY MENUS IN FRENCH.
A January Menu.
Consornme ChifEonade
Puree a la Reine
Filets de Raie au gratin
Salmi de Perdreaux
Artichauts k la Barigoule
Filet de Boeuf braise
Pommes de terre Duchesse
Sarcelle rotie
Salade d' Oranges
Charlotte a la St. Jose
Huttres en caisses k la
Diable
Dessert
Cafe turque.
II.
A February Menu.
Hors-d'CEuvre Russe
Petites Marmites
Filet de Saumon bouilli.
Sauce Verte
Poulardes k la Supreme
Selle d'Agneau rotie a,ux
Epinards '
Jambon de Prague
Sauce Cumberland
Canard Roti
Salade de Saison
Pommes Julienne
Peches k la Melba
Friandises
Sardines Diables
Dessert.
32
THE MENU BOOK.
III.
A March Menu.
Potage de Tomates a
I'Americaine
Darne de Cabillaud grille,
Sauce Tartare
Filets de Boeuf pique a la
Brillat-Savarin
Pat6 de Cailles
Mac^doiue de Legumes i la
Poulette
Caneton R6ti
Pommes de terre Anna
Salade de laitues
Bombe Glacee Richelieu
Compote de Mirabelles
patisseries assorties
Dessert.
A May Menu.
Consomme a la Victoria
Truites k la Chambord
Blanchailles
Quenelles de Volaille a la
Nantaise
Filets de Mouton aux
Concombres farcies
Canetons d'Aylesbury
Salade m^lang^e
Artichauts au buerre fondu
Pouding aux Cerises
Parfait au Moka praline
Ddmes d'honneur
Cafe Liqueurs.
vn.
A July Menu.
Consommi a la Colbert
St. Pidrre 4 la Talleyrand
Blanchailles ^ I'lndienne
Chaudfroid de Quenelles
de Veau
Poulet t la Milanaise
Cailles bardees k la Broche
Salade d'ete
Bananas farcies aux fraises
Creme renver.sfee
Fruits et Dessert
Caf6 i la Tuique.
IV.
An April Menu.
Potage Julienne (maigre)
Eperlans frits 4 la
Brochette
Vol-au-vent de Guochis
Dame de Saumon braise
Croutes aux Champignons
Salade de Cardons
Abricots t la Conde
Pouding Diplomate au
Marasquin
Tomates i I'Americaine
Hultres a la Diable
Dessert
Caf6 noir.
VI
A June Menu.
Hors-d'CEuvres varies
Bisque d'Ecrevisses
Petites Tirabales de
Filets de Sole
Ris d'Agneau braises en
caisses
Jambon braise au
Champagne
Haricots verts sautees
Poularde k I'Ecossaise
Pommes Soufflees
Pouding a la Prussieune_
Corbeilles de Glacfe fantaisie
Petites croutes a la Norfolk
Dessert
Cafe Liqueurs
VIII.
An Aug:ust Menu.
Croute au pot
Filets de Merlans i. la
Momay
Quenelles de Volaille
a la Turque
Filets de Boeuf ^ la
Bordelaise
Pommes de terre i la Bignon
Aubergines au gratin
Reine-Claudes a
rimpera trice
Canapes de Banaues
Fruits et Dessert.
DINNER— LE DINER.
33
FACSIMILE OF FRENCH MAYORAL DINNER MENU CARD,
REPRESENTING THE ORDER OF LA LEGION D'HONNEUR.
34
THE MENU BOOK.
IX.
A September Menu.
Olives d'Espagne sur
Canapes
Radis, Salami
Pur6e de Gibier
Samon k la HoUandaise
Rouelles de Veau
Choux de Bruxelles au lard
Gigot de Mouton braisfe
a la Bretonne
Cailles ilrla Broche
Salade
Pommes Failles
Souffle au Riz
Glace ii 1' Ananas
Gaufrettes Suisses
Laitance de Cabillaud fum6,
X.
An October Menu.
Consomme a la Chasseur
Barbue bouillie. sauce
huitres
Filets de Sole a la
Tyrolienne
Carre de Mouton braisS
aux Navets
Souffles de Perdreaux a la
Reine
Sorbet a I'Imperiale
Dindon roti au cresson
Salade de C^leri
Savarin au Rhum
Compote de Poires
Fromage de Brie
Dessert.
•^••1^-
XI.
XII.
A November Menu.
Hors-d'CEuvre Russe
Consomme Demi-Tortue
Filets de Barbue a la
Salamandre
Ris de Veau 4 la Regence
Filets de Boeuf &, la Rossini
Poularde de Bresse rdtie
Salade Japonaise
Parfait de C^Uri
Pouding k la Saxon
Glace Montreuil
Canapes de filets de Harengs
Dessert.
A December Menu.
Consomm^ ^ la Moelle
Potage crSme de riz
Turbot, sauce HoUandaise
Boeuf garni k la Vichy
Chou-fleurs
Sauce Mousseuse
Timbale de Foie-gras
Faisan de BohSme
Salade Imperiale
Bombe Nesselrode
Patisseries
Paillettes au Parmesan
Fruits et Dessert.
•^{■■m
DINNER— LE DINER.
35
SPECIMEN DINNER MENU.
Hors-d'CEuvre varies
Potage :
Consomme Brunoise
Poissons :
Saumon a la Cardinal Blanchailles a I'lndienne
Entrees :
Poussins ^ la Souvaroff Tournedos k la Choron
Releve :
Gigot d'Agneau r6ti Asperges, Sauce Mousseline.
Granite au Kirsch
CaiUes a la Broche
Rdti .
Salade Polonaise
Entremets :
Charlotte Fougdres Glace Carmen
Canapes St. Jaques Dessert.
SPECIMEN MENUS FOR VARIOUS SEASONS.
Menu du Diner.
Le 1$ Mars.
Hors-d'CEuvre :
Anchois sur Canapes
Pofage :
Consomme Fleury
Poisson :
Fillets d'Anguille i la
Juive, Sauce Tartare
Entree :
Tournedos i la Bearuaise
Pommes Parisienue
Rati :
Canard roti
Salade a la Franjaise
Entremets :
Concombres farcies
etoufi6e
Riz 4 rimpera trice
Tourte a la Rhnbarbe
Bonne Bouche :
Hultres k la Diable
en caisses.
Bill of Pare.
March i$th.
Side Dish :
Anchovy fillets on toast
Soup ;
Clear - Soup (Rice and
Vegetable garnish)
Fish :
Fried Fillets of Eel
(Jewish fashion), Tartare
Sauce
Made Dish :
Tournedos (Bcarnaise style)
Parisian Potatoes
Roast :
Roast Duck
French Salad
Vegetable :
Stuped Cucumber (baked)
Swee.ts :
Rice Mould (Empress style)
Rhubarb Tart
Savoury :
Devilled Oysters in Cases.
36
THE MENU BOOK.
MENUS MAIQRES
Dejeuners —
Anchois sur canap6s
CEufs a, la Reine MargotsJ
Homard — Sauce Gribiche
Haricots beurre nouveaux
Poires t la Jeanne Granier
Dessert.
Escargots a la Bourguig-
nonne
OEufs el la Vaucourt
Raie au buerre noire
Spagheti k la Milanaise
Croutes aux fruits
Dessert.
LENTEN MENUS.
Luncheons.
Hors-d'CEuvre
Cabillaud grille
Sauce bearnaise
CEufs moUets aux epinards
Sarcelles k I'oranges amSres
Riz k la Conde
Dessert.
Favorits de Caviar
CEufs frits aux epinards
Sole a la Portugaise
Champignons sous la cloche
G3,teau mousseline k
I'orange
Dessert.
A Lenten Dinner.
Escargots en Chablis
Consomm^ Fermifire
Saumou, Sauce Genoise
Blanchailles au Paprika
Petites Bouch6es aux Cfepes
Bordure de Homard a la Norvdgienne
Cotelettes de Semoule k la Jardiniere
Salade de Celeri
Ponding a I'Ambassadrice
Bombe de P6che en Surprise
Nouilles au Gratin.
MENUS MAIQRES.
Diner Careme — A Lenten Dinner.
French :
Purfee de Choufleur,
maigre
Blanchailles au Naturel
Souchet de Carrelets
Mousses d'Homard a la
Cardinal
Cotelettes de Turbot k
rindienne
Darne de Saumon k la
Sufidoise
Chou de Mer k la
HoUandaise
Chartreuse aux Oranges
Caf6 frappfi k la Neige
j^clairs de Sardines.
English
Cauliflower Soup
Whttebail
FlouiiJcrs in Souchet
Lobster Mousses, Cardinal
Sauci
Turbot Cutlets {Indian
style)
Cold Salmon (Swedish style)
Seakale with Dutch Sauce
Orange Jelly (Chattnuse
style)
Iced Coffee with Whipped
Cream
Sardine Eclairs.
SPECIMEN MENUS.
37
SPECIMEN MENUS IN FRENCH AND
ENGLISH,
Season— May-June.
Menu. Bill of Fare.
Consomme Brunoise
Filets de Soles a la
Regence
Cotelettes d'Agneau a la
Clamart
Petits Pois i la
Mayonnaise
Cdte de Boeuf roti a
I'Anglaise
Creme d'Asperges k
I'Argenteuil
Canard farcies, 6touliee-
Salade d' Orange
Pommes Nouvelles
Mousse frappee, Prince
Puckler
G5,teaux Pithiviei's
Fromage
Fruits et Dessert.
Clear Vegetable Soup
(Brunoise style)
Fillets of Sole {Regent
style)
Lnmb Cutlets {Clamart
style)
Green Peas with Salad
Dressing
Roast Beef with Yorkshire
pudding and Horseradish
Sauce
Asparagus in Savoury
Jelly
Braised Duck, Stuffed
Orange Salad
New Potatoes
Iced Chocolate Mousse
with Chestnut Puree
Pithiviers Cakes
Cheese
Fruit and Dessert.
•^1-ls
Season— June-July.
Potage :
Creme k I'Oseille
Poissons :
Sole au Gratin
Petites Bouchees de
Crevettes
Entree :
Cotelettes de Veau aux
puree de Pois vert
Rdti :
Poulet r6ti
Salade de Laitue
Pommes Souffles
Entremets :
. Omelettes sucree
Bavaroise aux Peclies.
Soup :
Cream of Sorrel
Fish :
Sole au Gratin {baked)
Small Puff Paste Patties of
Prawns
Entree :^
Veal Cutlets with Puree
of Green Peas
Roast :
Roast Chicken
Lettuce Salad
Puff Potatoes
Sweets :
Sweet Omelet
, Peach Cream.
338
THE MENU BOOK.
Season— November-December.
French.
Hors-d' ceuvre :
Varies.
Potages :
Consomm^ k la Royale
Potage i la Mulligatawny
Poissons :
Sole au vin blanc
Eperlans frite, Sauce
R^moulade
Entrees :
Petites Bouch6es de
Faisan El la Moderne
Terrine de Lapereaux
Relevi :
Gigot de Mouton, Galois,
Legumes
Rdti :
Sarcelles r6ti
Pommes Julienne, Salade
Entremets :
Pouding Souffle aux
Pommes
Crdme glac^e de Prunes
de Damas
Savoureux :
Petites Croustades au
Parmesan.
English.
Assorted Appetisers :
Selection of Side Dishes
Soups :
Clear Soup with Royal
Custard
Thick Mulligatawny
Fish:
Soles with White Wine
Sa%ice
Fried Smelts, Remoulade
Sauce, Tomato Flavour
Made Dishes
Small Pheasant Patties
Terrine of Rabbit or Hare
Remove :
Roast Leg of Welsh
Mutton
Vegetables
Roast:
Roast Teal
Straw Potatoes and Salad
Sweets :
Apple Souffle Pudding
Damson Cream Ice
Savoury :
Parmesan Cheese, Cream
in Crusts.
FRENCH FAMILY
French. I,
Potage S6vign6
Filets 'de Turbot i. la
Vatel
Poulets de Grains en
Cocotte
Flageolet? au Beurre
Cailles de Vigne sur
Canapfes
Salade de Chicorfie
Glace, Vanille et Fraise
Tartelettes aux Araandes
DINNER MENUS.
English.
Sevigni Soup
Fillets of Turbot {Vatel
style)
Spring Chicken {Cocotte
style)
Flageolets tossed in Butter
Quails on Toast
Chicoree Salad
Vanilla and Strawberry Ice
Almond Tartlets
SPECIMEN MENUS.
39
FRENCH FAMILY DINNER MENUS.
French.
Potage k la Reine
Truite Saumonee, sauce
Genoise
Ris de Veau aux Petits
Pois
Perdreau roti
Salade de C6!6ri en
branches
Fonds d'Artichauts
a ritalienne
Compote de Fruits
au Kirsch
Biscuit Manque.
II.
English.
White Chicken Puree
Boiled Salmon Trout,
Genoise Sauce
Sweetbread with Green Peas
Roast Partridge
Celery Salad
Artichoke Bottoms in
Brown Sauce
Stewed Fruit with Kirsch
Syrup
French Biscuits.
Hors-d'CEuvre
ConsommS Grisonne
Filet de Sole a I'Horly
Cotes d'Agneau aux
Points d'Asperges
Caneton de Rouen poele
Petits Pois Paysanne
Pommes Noisettes
Salade Fran9aise
Tartelettes de Fraises
Souffle au Parmesan.
Appetisers.
Clear Beef Broth with
Batter Garnish
Fillets of Soles, Fried,
with Tomato Sauce
Lamb Cutlets with
Asparagus Points
Rouen Duckling braised iif
the pot
Green Peas
(Farmer's style)
, Potatoes Browned in Butter
French Salad
Strawberry Tartlets
Parmesan Souffle.
IV.
Consomme au Tapioca
Cabillaud, Sauce aux
Cypres
Poulet saute aux
Champignons
Gigot d'Agneau
a I'Anglaise
Salade de Laitue
Haricots Verts a la
Poulette
Tarte aux Cerises,
Tapioca Clear Soup
Boiled Cod, Caper Sauce
Stewed - Chicken with
Mushrooms
Roast Leg of Lamb
Lettuce Salad
French Beans (Poulette
style)
Cherry Tart,
40
THE MENU BOOK.
PETITS DINERS.-SMALL DINNERS.
Petite Marmite a la
Fraiifaise
Vol-au-vent A. la Toulouse
Perdreau sur Canape
Cfeleri au Jus
Croutes aux Peches.
Consomme k la Royale
Paupiettes de Soles
Cuissot de Chevreuil
k la Poivrade
Asperges, Sauce MousseUne
Sorbet au Rhum
Chapon Truffee
Salade de Laitue £i, la
Mayonnaise
P3.le de Grouse
Pommes au riz Meringuees.
A Recherche Diner.
CrSme a la Marquise
Croustades aux Huttres
Turban de filets de Soles a
r Ambassadrice
Filet de BcEuf Braise
Ris de veau k la
Cardinal
Pctits pois a la
Fran9aise
Sorbet au Kirsch
Faisan barde au Cresson
Pommes Julienne
SoufHes d'Epinards
Glace Dame blanche
Gclteaux Madelaines.
Potage fausse Tortue
Filets de Turbot d la
Normande
Cuissot de veau k
TAUemande
Truffes au Champagne
Souvenirs de Foie-gras
Dinde rotie
Salade a la Fran9aise
Artichauts, Sauce Chasseur
Glace Plombidre.
Hors-d'CEuvre.
Consomme ttlestine
Bisque de Homard
Turbotin braise a la RuSse
Vol au Vent de Ris de Veau
Toumedos Catalane
Pommes Rissolees
Canetou d'Aylesbury Roti
Salade
Petits Pois au Beurre
Biscuit Glac6
Friandises
Dessert.
Consomme au Riz
Paupiettes de Merlans
Entrecote grilles
Haricots vertu sautfes
Faisan roti
Pommes frites, Salade
Rouding Nesselrode,
ROYAL MENUS.
4,1
ROYAL MENUS.
Dinner of H.M.
King Edward VII.
Consomms k I'lmp^riale, or?
CrSme de Pois Printaiiifere
Coquilles. d'Huitres au
Gratin
Filets de Truites a la
Chambord
~ Cailles a la Diane
Selle de Pre-Sal6 a la
Nifoise
Chaudfroid de Poulets A. la
Renaissance
Sarcelles Roties a I'Orange,
Sauce Porto
Salade k la Rachel
Asperges d'Argenteuil,
Sauce Mousseuse
Souffles de Fruits a la
Leopold
Patisseries Parisienne
Barquattes de Caviar a la
Russe
Glaces 4 la Venitienne
Paniers de Friandises.
(March)
Dinner of H.M. the
King of Italy.
Consomme Julienne
Truites au Beurre
Tournedos k la Semmering
Chaud-froid de Poulardes
Selle de .Chevfeuil
Compote, Salade
Asperges, Sauce Mousseline
Souffle a la Desio
Glace MeI6e
Fromage
Fruits
Dessert
Cafe Noir.
{August)
Luncheon of H.M.
King Edward VII.
Hors-d'CEuvre
CEufs Brouilles Pointes
d' Asperges
Filet de Barbue Mornay
Cotes d'Agneau aux
Petits Pois
Chaud Froid de VolaiUes
Pommes Bonne-Femme
Salade Romaine
Dessert
Benedictine, (May)
Dinner of H.M. the
King of Spain.
Consomme de Volaille Glace
CrSme, d'Epinards
Saumon d'Ecosse, Sauce
Laguipi^re
Aiguillette de Boeuf
Fondante
Pommes Casa Campo
Poularde Bagatelle
Bouchee des Rois
Aubergines a I'Orientale
Biscuit Glace a la
Napolitaine
Patisserie Feuilletee
Cheese Wafers.
(June)
v/indsor ©aatle
Se*tMHU% Am. -i>At.iM
3.0 Jvirt iJ«S
REDUCED FACSIMILE OF ONE OP HIS MAJESTY KING EDWAPD VII. S
DINHER MENUS.
Dinner Menu ot H.R.H. the
Prince of Wales.
(Marlborough House.)
Consomme a la Main tenon
Saumon, Sauce HoUandaise
Poussins k la Gauloisc.
Canetons de Rouen 4 la
Beauvilliers
Selles de Mouton de Galles
Jambons de Prague
B6cassines
Asperges Vertes
Pdches du Cap k la
Montebello
Souffles au Parmesan,
{March is(, igoQ.)
Translation ol Menu— H.M.
Kine of Spain.
Consommfe de Torme
Potage k la Maintenon
Petits p&l6s de riz 4 la
Pifemontaise
Quenelles de Caneions piqu6es
k la Senn
C6telettes d'Agneau froides
&. la Princesse
Pi6ce de Boeuf brais6e
k TEspagnole
Petiis pois au beurre
Haricots verts sautfes
Poulardes du Mans rdties
Salade k I'Ambassadrice
Asperges, Sauce HoIUndaise
Gateaux Mousseline k la Cibdard
Glaci k la P6dro
TarteleitesTA la Gisors
(rS* tfarcH, 1908,)
f6 </€ QMai^ Je f9CS.
tie ^ei/a d /a (2/enn
Oai^Ma^ ae colaeio ^amMt, d £i G/Aincf^a
faca a <a &^Sanota
'yeti64 «fcl
ecmt tnM«Mta a ta ^emt^
^/CcKieu> at dema y /iu/aa
FACSIMILE OF A GALA DANQnET MEND GIVEN BV H.M. THE
KING OF SPAIN, AT THE ROYAL PALACE, MADRID.
44
THE MENU BOOK.
Luncheon of M.M.
the King of Norway.
CEufs poches & la Princesse
Saumon du Rhin grill6,
sauce Vertc
Ris de Veau A. la Rothschild
Filet de Bceuf piqu6 a la
Regence, sauce Porto
Savarins aux Fruits frapp6s
Biscottes SI 1' Alexandra.
Dejeuner of H.M.
the King of Siam.
Tortue des Indes
Ilomards k la Delmonico
au riz
Sclle de Mouton,
tomates farcis, haricots
verts, et pommes soufflees
Poulets k la Mascotte
Salade modemc
Pfiches d. la Melba
Fromage
Fruits
Mocca.
(August)
Dinner of H.M.
the King of Denmark.
Potage Louis Philippe
Rissoles & la Pompadour
Cabillaud
Selle d'Agneau a la
Flamande
Poulets k la Vicomtesse
Homards en Bellevue
Faisans R6tis
Compote, Salade
Fonds d'Artichauts k
I'Espagnole
Glace Dessert.
(September)
Dinner of H.M.
the King of Sweden.
Consomme aux Profiteroles
Bouchees Cardinal
CEufs a la Wladimir
Coeur de Filet a la Massenet
Pommes Noisettes
Chaudfroid de Poulet a la
Gelee
Salade Marocaine
Asperges en Branches
Sauce Mousseline
Petits Pois de Crdme
Caramel *
Glace Panachee
Patisserie.
(April)
* The King's favourite dish.
Dinner of H.M.
the King of Portugal.
Consomme k la Chasseur
Filets de Soles a I'Horley
Sauce Remoulade
Poularde en Casserole k la
Edouard VII.
Chaudfroid de Cotelettes
de Prfesale a la Belle Alliance
Cailles farjies en caisses
a la LucuUus
Chartreuse de fruits a la
Diploma te
Petits Fours k la Frangaise
Fruits et Dessert
Caf6 Noir.
(May)
ROYAL* MENUS.
45
\\l
/cfyj
&^-
f/^e^*^M** A«^;»ii
FACSIMILE- OF A DINiNER MENU OF H.M. IHB
EMPEROR or GERMANY.
46
THE MENU BOOK.
TABLE D'HOTE MENUS.
Hors-d'CEuvre
Cr(5me J6rusalem
Filets cle Sole Meunifire
CEufs poches Portugaise
Noisette d'Agneau Bergfire
Poulet grille. Sauce Tartare
Pommes Grenobloise
Petits pois au Sucre
Crfinie St. Claire glac6e
Fromage.
3s. 6d. per head. (March )
Hors-d'Oiuvre
Consomme Viveur
Filets de Barbue a
I'Anglaise
Caille Froide Richelieu
Contrefilet de Boeuf a
la Broche
Pommes Nouvelles
Petits Pois aux Laitues.
Poussin Grand M6re
Salade de Saison
Glace Plombidre
Dessert.
55. per head. (April)
Hors-d'CEuvre
Veloutfe de Tomates
Ox Tail Soup
Suprfime de Turbotia Boitel
Pommes Nouvelles i
I'Anglaise
Selle d'Agneau k la Richelieu
Ris de Veau braise
aux epinards
Pcularde de Mans rdtie
au Cresson
Salade de Saison
Asperges d'Argenteuil,
Sauce Mousseline
Parfait Praline
Friandises
Compotier de Fruits.
ys. 6d. per head. (June)
Hors-d'CEuvre 4 la Russe
Consommii Princesse
Fausse Bisque
Timbales de Filets de
Sole Grimaldi
Poussin au.x petits pois
k la Fran9aise
Selle de Mouton 4 la
Broche
Tomates Champignons
Pommes persillfees
Cailles de Vigne roties
au Cresson
Salade de cceurs de
Romaine
Asperges, Sauce Mousseliue
Fraises au Royal Port
Ananas glac6 dans son
fruit
Dessert.
6s. per head. (May)
Caviar d'Astrakaa
Tortue Claire
SuprSme de Turbot, Duglerc
Poussin t la Paysaune
Langue de Renne fumee
Cailles de Vigne bardees
Salade Chips
Asperges Vertes
Roses Glacces Friandises
Fondu au Chester
Dessert Cafe Noir.
los. 6d. per head. (June)
Consomme Mousseline
Filets de Sole Americaine
Coles d'Agneau
Marechale
Points d'Asperges a la Creme
Cailles Cocottes aux Trufles
CcEurs de Laitues
Parfait de Foie-gras
Suprfimes de Volaille
Jeannette
Terrine de Canard
Roueuuaise
Macfedoine de Fruits glac6
Mille Feuilles
Corbeilles de Fruits
Caf6 Turque.
1 25. 6(1. per head. (Feb. )
MISCELLANEOUS MENUS.
47
^^ej^adiijcj-^l^t^c^'l^icl
''//?.
BJ7J
/tnt'dote. /"or Cout
"^CLAM CoCJfTA/LS
GreenTurtle
IpBSTERjkuTE -^ ^
Cucumbers a laJ^DrJ'chhmm
Jure Cure for Ptomaine Ji '
Filet °/BEEFjsrd>niir.fl^
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ms^RiNCH
rtturn
Wyom/S3/Ai^ Club.
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NESSELPODE PUDDING
AN AMERICAN MOTOR CLUB DINNER MENU.
England and Norway.
Menu of a Dejeuner composed in honour of the King and
Queen of Norway's visit to England :
Menu.
E-Escalopes de Turbot k la Nansen-K
N-Navarin de Poulet i la Marengo-0
G-Goulash Viennoise a la Xavier-R
L-Langouste en salade, Stroganov-V
A-Alumettes de Cel^ri k la Grfique-E
N-Neigeau Champagne k la Dantzig-G
D-Darioles de PSches k la Royale-K
48
THE MENU BOOK.
PRIVATE DINNER MENUS.
Hors-d'CEiivre ;
Salade d'Anchois
Cel6ri Rave k la Tartare
Olives de Lucca
Potages •:
Consomme Riche
Fausse Tortue Liee
Pois'ion:
Turbot i I'lmperiale
Merlans a la Colbert
Entrees :
Mousse au Jambon
Poularde de la Bresse,
Chevalidre
Releve :
Selle de Mouton t la
Paysanne
Rdti :
Faisan de BohSme sur
Croustade
Pommes Failles
Salade de Saison
Legume :
Choufleur k la Polonaise
Entremets :
Charlotte de Pommes
Gdteau St. Honorfe
Bombe Petit Due
Dessert Petits Fours
Caf6.
i2s. 6d. per head. {Feb.)
Mignardises
Hors-d'CEuvre
Potage
Crfime de Volaille
Valenciennes
Barbue k la Parisienne
Selle de pre-sale
Bouquetidre
Salmis de bfecasses
Poulardes truffees
Terrine Voisin
Salade gauloise
Cardons a la nioelle
Nelusko glace
Gaufrettes — Petits fours
Desserts
Oafs Liqueur.
IDS. 6d. per head. {Jan.)
Huitres Royales
Sole a la Palace
Poulet k la Stanley
Caille de Vigne Rotie
Salade Coeur de I^itue
Asperges NouveUes
Sauce HoUandaise
Dessert. {March)
Crevettes Roses glacees
Crfime k la Dubarry
Poupiettes de Soles
Demi-denil
Ris de Veau Trianon
Rouennais k 1' Imperial
Quartier d'Agneau roti
Salade Quatre Saiaons
Panachfi k la Maltre d'lldtel
Bombe Fran9iUon.
Consomme Montmorency
Saumon de
Sauce Genevoise
Pommes NouveUes
Mignonnettes d'Agneau aux
Petits Pois
Risotto Milanaise
Poularde k la Vendome
Salade Nipoise
Asperges en Branches
Sauce Mousseline
Mousseline aux Fraises
Fruits et Dessert.
{April)
PRIVATE DINNER MENUS.
49
Menu :
Consomme Piincesse
Dame de Saumon
Sauce Genevoise
Crfepinettes de pigeons aux
Pointes d'Asperges
Jarabon de Prague
Sauce Espagnole
Gigot de Pri-Sale i la
Godard
Poulardes du Mans a la
P^rigord
Salads Lyonaise
Petits Pois Nouveaux
Crfime Glacee aux Praises
GS-teau Moderne Paillettes
Dessert. {Spring)
Menu ;
CrSme Velout6 Duchesse
Truites du Rhin
Sauce Chambord
Filet de Boeuf i. la Richelieu
Supreme de Volaille a la
LucuUus
Aspic de Foie-gras en
Belle- vue
Faisaus Flanques de Cailles
Salade de Saison
Asperges de Paris
Sauce Mousseline
Bombe Prince Piickler
GS,tf!au Trois Frdres
Dessert
Cafe Moka.
BILL OF FARE OF A TYPiCAL ENGLISH DINNER.
Soup :
Clear Gravy and Tomato
Fish :
Boiled Turbot, Dutch Sauce
Whitebait (plain and devilled)
Entries :
Chicken Cutlets Stewed Cucumbers
Braised Sweetbread, larded Mashed Potatoes
Remove :
Sirloin of Beef Horseradish Sauce
Yorkshire Pudding Seakale and Potatoes
Roast :
Larded Guinea Fowl Lettuce Salad
Sweets :
Brown Bread Pudding Apricot Creams
Savoury :
Oysters on Horseback. {September)
D
50 THE MENU BOOK.
A FRENCH CHRISTMAS DINNER.
Diner de Noel.
Consomme Chambellan
Supreme de Soles Mornaj'
Filet de Boeuf k la Rossini
Poularde Soufflee a la Princesse
Pave a la Lucullus
Sorbet k la Cyrano
Asperges en Branches
Sauce Mascotte
Faibans rotis en VoUiere sur Croustade
Salade a la Marianne
Glace D&me blanche
Gdteau Trois FrSres
Temple Historique
Fruits
Desserts.
SPECIMEN MENUS FOR CHRISTMAS DINNERS.
I.
Chicken Soup
Fried Soles Anchovy Sauce
Jugged Hare Red Currant Jelly
Roast Sirloin of Beef Horseradish Sauce
Yorkshire Pudding Vegetables
Plum Pudding Brandy Sauce
Vanilla Custard Mince Pies.
II.
Oxtail Soup
Boiled Turbot Shrimp Sauce
Mutton Cutlets with Braised Celery
Roast Turkey stuffed with Chestnuts
Cauliflower and Potatoes
Plum Pudding
Apple Tart and Custard
Chocolate Cream Ice.
III.
Mock Turtle Soup
Fried Whiting Lemon Sauce
FJUets of Beef with Tomatoes
Veal and Ham Pie
Roast Goose, stuffed Apple Sauce
Clipped Potatoes Braised Celery
Plum Pudding Mince Pics
Vanilla Cream Ice.
PRIVATE DINNER MENUS.
51
DINER A LA RUSSE.
14-20 guests at
Hors d'CEuvre :
Caviare glace
Salade d'Anchois
Folates :
Tortue Claire Puree
Poissons :
Saumon Bouilli
Sauce de Homard'
Filets de Soles k I'Orly
Sauce Tartare
Entrees :
Supremes de Volaille aux
Truffes
Tournedos de Boeuf a la
Bfeamaise
15s. per head.
Releve :
Quartier d'Agneau r6ti
Asperges, Sauce Hollandaise
Rdts :
Canetons de Rouen
Cailles bardces
Petits Pois Nouveaux
Entremets :
CEufs de Pluviers en
Croustade
Creme aux Framboises
Suedoise d'Abricots
Gateau k la Mascotte
Bonne Bouche
Glaces
Sorbet au Champagne. Petites Coquilles d'Ecrevisse.
A MENU IN THREE LANQUAQES.
English.
Clear Soup, Italian Style
Pumpkin Soup.
Grilled Soles, St. Germain
style
Chicken Fillets, Ambassador
style
Braised Leg of Mutton
Champagne Sherbet
Rouen Ducklings
Orange Sauce
Mixed Salad
Green Peas, Farmer's
style
Peaches, Cardinal style
Cheese Cakes.
French
Consomme 4 I'ltalienne
Potage au Potiron
Filets de Soles, Grilles k la
Saint Germain
Supreme de Volaille
Ambassadrice
Gigot de pre-sale a la
Saint Hubert
Sorbet au Champagne
Canneton de Roueu k la
Bigarrade
Salade Melee
Petits Pois Paj'sanne
PSches Cardinal
Ramequins.
German. ,
Italienische Kraftbriihe
Kurbis-Suppe
Gerost. Seezungenschnitten nach St. Gerraancr-Art
Gefliigelbrustchen nach Dotschafterin-Art
Hammelschlegel nach Sankt Hubertus
Scherbet mit Schaumwein
Rouenaiser Ente mit Pommeranzen
Gemischter Salat
Erbsen auf Bauern-Art
Pfirsiche auf Kardinals-Art
Kase-Tortchen.
52 THE MENU BOOK.
SUPPER AND SUPPER MENUS.
Souper et Menus de Soupers.
This is the term for the last meal of the day, and one
which has a wide and varied meaning. During the
Middle Ages supper used to be served as early as 5 p.m.,
when it was customarj' to serve soup ; from this the name
supper is supposed to have originated. History tells us
that soups, or supper dishes, originally consisted of liquid
food both savoury and sweet, such as frumenty, porridge,
and various kinds of spoon meat, which were eaten with
pieces of bread called sops, soppets or sippets.
Where late dinner is served, as is usually the case at
the present time, supper is rarely eateUr
So-called ball suppers and theatre suppers are fashion-
able both here and abroad. There is no set rule as to
the kind of dishes served for supper, but when partaken
of as an every-day meal supper may consist of dishes hot
or cold, with or without soups, vegetables or even sweets.
Cheese and salad when in season are usually included,
but this is not to be regarded as a hard-and-fast rule
Light cakes and fancy gateaux, tea or coffee, are some-
times included in a supper menu, which shows that many
regard this meal as but a light repast.
The foUomng menus are selected as specimens for
so-termed set suppers :
SPECIMEN MENUS FOR SUPPERS.
Menus de Soupers.
French. I. English.
Darne de Saumon k la Salmon Stoak, Rcmoulade
R6moulade style
Roulade de Veau en Veal Roll, coated, with
Chaudfroid Chaudfroid Sauce
Jambon k la Gelee Yorli Hum with Aspic Jelly
Salade Salad
Risotto ci ritalienne Italian Risotto
Souffl6 a la Mexienne Cold Chocolate Souffli
Denises aux Amandes FrosteJ Almond Sandwiches
Fruits et Dessert. Fruit and Dessert.
II.
Ecrevisses en Aspic Prawns in Savoury Jelly
Darioles de Crfime de Volaille Chicken Creams
Boeuf 4 la Presse Pressed Beef
Pates de Veau et Jambon Veal and Ham Patties
Salad de Haricots Panaches Haricot Bean Salad
CrSme k la Romaine Roman Cream
Compote de Poires Strwed Pears
Fromage de Camcmbert Cauiemhert Cheese
C6Ieri. Celery.
SUPPER MENUS.
53
il^euu iu ^oupev.
8 MAI, l£CS.
Saumon k I'Essence
Cotelettes d'Agneau a la
Printani^re
Chaudfroidde Cailles
k la Sefton
QEufs de Pluviers
a la Russe
Gelees Har!equin^.
Chartreuses Cdloniales
Paniers-aux Raisins
Huttres en Surprise'
L,™™«=J>essert
FACSIMILE OF A PRIVATE SDPPER MENO.
54
THE MENU BOOK.
MENU DE SOUPER.
III.
Denises Suedoise
Filets de Boeuf li'la Madrid
Salade de Cel^ri a la
Rachel
Foie-gras a la. Dumas
Pate de Volaillc et Jambon
Bordure de Creme de
Homard
SUPPER MENU.
Swedish Sandwiches
Fillets of Beef, Madrid style
Celery and Truffle Salad
Foie-gras CroHtes
Chicken and Ham Fie
Border of Lobster Cream
Petites Crimes k la Princesse ^'"'^^ ^''^'""^ (Princess style)
Fromage de Roquefort Roquefort Cheese
Biscuits de Fromage. Cheese Biscuits.
S5|"|S
SOUPER DE BAL.
Huitres au Nature!
Plats Chauds :
Homard k la Gauloise
Mauviettes en Casserole
Ris de Veau en Caisses k la
Chasseur
Plats Froids :
Filets de Soles en Aspic
Zephires de Foie-Gras a la
St. Martin
Carr6 de Mouton k la
Boh6mienne
Dindonneau farci k la
Moderne
Jambon de York a la Gelee
Faisan roti
Pate de Pigeon el la
Franyaise
Salade de Saison
Denises a la Princesse
Entremets :
Gel6e au Champagne
Crfime aux Amandes
Charlottes Mignonnes
Corbeilles de Nougat k la
Chantilly
patisserie
Dessert.
BALL SUPPER.
Natives
Hot Dishes :
Lobster served in Shells
Larks stewed in Casserole
Sweetbread iv cases with
Mushroom Puree
Cold Dishes :
Fillets of Soles in Savoury
Jelly
Zephyrs of Foie-gras (Goose
Liver)
Neck of Mutton (Bohemian
style)
Young Turkey, stuffed
York Ham with Aspic Jelly
Roast Pheasant
Pigeon Pie, French fashion
Salad
Princess Sandwiches
Sweets :
Champagne Jelly
Almond Cream
Little Russian Charlottes
Nougat Baskets with
Whipped Cream
French Pastry
Dessert. ^^
SUPPER MENUS.
55
SPECIAL SUPPER PARTY MENU.
French.
Consomme de Volaille
Mayonnaise de Homard
Chaudfroid Mauviettes
LucuUus
Mousse de Jambon
Parisienne
Filet BcEuf pique
Bouquetidre
Galantine Volaille truffee
Poulet Surrey a la Gelee
Jambon de York
Salade Henriette
Crdme de Fraise
G&teaux Duchessc
Petits Fours
Dessert.
English.
Clear Chickeri Broth
Lobster Mayonnaise
Chaudfroid of Larks
with Truffles
Ham Mousse (Parisian style)
Fillet of Beef, larded and
braised, with Vegetables
Chicken Galantine, truffled
Surrey Fowls with Aspic
York Ham
Cauliflower, Bean, and
Truffle Salad
Strawberry Cream
Duchess Cake
Fancy Pastry
Dessert.
•^I-I^*
SOUPER DU BAL.
Salade.de Homard
Filets de Sole k la New York
Medallions de Pigeon a la
Monaco
Chartreuse de Faisan
Souffle de Volaille
Macedoine -
Cailles en Aspie
Rdtis.
De Dindon, Grouse
Pate de Gibier
Galantine a la Reine
Jambon d'York
Langue de Boeuf glacee
Gelees aux Vins et Liqueurs
Meringues a la Suisse
Crdmes varides
Salade de Fruits au
Marasquin
Triffle a I'Anglaise
Dessert Bon-bons
Consomme au Depart.
MENU DU SOUPER.
Petites Tables
Tortue Claire — Citrons
Cotelettes d'Agneau aux
Petits Pois
Poulets rotis au Cresson
Cailles sur Canapes
Froid
Consomme de Volaille
Paupiettes de Truites
Venitienne
Salade de Homards
Petites Cotelettes a
I'Ecarlate
Poulardes Poelees
Macedoines de Fruits
Rafratchis
Petits Gateaux Assortis
[Consommd au depart.
(t4 Juillet)
56 THE MENU BOOK.
BALL SUPPER MENU OF H.M. THE KINQ, GIVEN
AT BUCKINQHAM PALACE, JULY loth, 1908:
Consommfe Riche
Filets de Truites k la Britania
Cendrillons de Soles a la Bagration
Medallions de Volaille en Belle-vue
Cotelettes d'Agneau k I'Ambassadrice
Chaufi'oix de Cailles a la Moscovite
Poulets et Langue a 1' Aspic
Jambon de Prague k la Montpensier
Sandwiches varies
Petits Pains a la Fran9aise
Macedoine de Fruits au Grand Mariner
Gelees PrintaniSres au Champagne
Crimes Rubanees a la Parisienne
Gradins de Patisserie
Pieces Montees sur Socles
Petites Glaces Bouqueti^res
Paniers de Mignardises
Limonade et Orangeade
Dessert.
DANCE SUPPER MENU.
Consommd Chaud a la Royale
Cotelettes d'Agneau
au Beurre Noisette
Petits Pois Clamart
Poulets rotis
Froid
M^daillons Alexandra
Eclairs de Homard
Galantine de Volaille trufi6e
Sandwiches varies
Salade Indienne
Macedoine de Fruits au Champagne '
Glace a la Vanille Glace aux Praises
Corbeilles de Friandises
Dessert.
\ SPECIMEN menu: 57
A SPECIMEN MENU WITH QUOTATIONS.
Hors-d'CEuvre varies.
" Dishes alike deliglitful aod appetising." — Leigh Hunt.
POTAGE.
Tortile Claire. Bisque d'ecrevisses.
Consomme de Volaille Royale a la Printaniere.
" Soup of tlie evening, beautiful soup." — Alice in Wonderland.
POISSONS.
Dames de Saumon Bouilli, Sauce Mousseline.
Pommes de terre nouvelles. Concombres.
Filets de Sole I'Orly.
" There's no meat Uke them ;
I could wish my be3t friend at such a feast." — Timcn of Athens, i. 2.
Releve.
Filet de Bceuf pique d, la Renaissance.
* What say you to a piece of beef and mustard." — Taming of the Shrew, iv. 5
Entrees Chauds.
Supreme de Volaille a la Victoria.
Ris de veau A la Perigueux.
" The daintiest that they taste." — 3 Henry IV,
Entrees Froides.
Foie-gras en belle vue. Aspic de Homard.
"To please all kinds of appetite?." — Massinger.
Ponche A la Romaine, cigarettes Turques.
" You cannot judge the hquor from the lees." — Tennyson.
ROTK.
Aloyau de Bceuf A I'Anglaise.
Quartier d'Agneau, Sauce Menthe.
" Look to the baked meats, good Angelica ;
Spare not for cost." — Romeo and Juliet.
Vor.AILLE,
Cailles de Vigne sur Canapes.
, Canetons A la Rouennaise.
Pommes pailles. Petits pais nouveaux.
Asperges en branches. Sauce Hollandaise.
" A table richly spread in regal modes,
With dishes piled, and meats of noblest sort and savour." — Milion.
Entremets.
Pouding souffle d la Vanille.
Gelee aux fruits. Vacherin A la Chantilly.
Gateaux A la Napolitaine.
"A surfeit of the sweetest things." — Midsummer Night's Dream.
Glace en surprise.
" A piece of ice," — Taming of the Shrew.
Savoureux.
Petits souffles au fromage. Pailles A, la Yarmouth.
' "To make the matter savoury." — Hamlet.
Dessert.
" Partook a choice repast." — Massinger.
Cafe noir et cognac.
" Cofiee, which makes the politician wise,
And see through all things with his half-shut eyes." — Pope.
58 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY.
PART II.
HORS-D'CEUVRE— APPETISERS.
The hors-d'oeuvre course, which forms the so-called
prelude to a complete dinner, has of late become very
popular.
A very large variety of 'little dishes, both plain and
dressed, can be served under this heading. These dishes
to the thoughtful cook present one of the best opportunities
for showing his or her skill and originality in combination
and garnish. Such dishes must, however, be strictly
confined to such colour and such material as will harmonise
with the other dishes on the menu.
, Usually one or two plain and one dressed hors-d'oeuvre
are served at a dinner, this being a matter of taste left
to the maitre d'hotel or to the chef.
Whatever the hors-d'oeuvre may consist of, let it be
remembered that these little side dishes are intended to
stimulate and not satisfy the appetite, i.e., they must be
tempting and smart in appearance, and the portions must
be very small, so as not to impair the enjoyment of the
remainder of the meal.
These dishes are frequently placed on the table before
the guests enter the dining-room ; and, when dressed in
a pretty and dainty manner, they add greatly to the
effective decoration of a table.
CLASSIFICATION OF HORS-D'(EUVRE.
Plain Side Dishes.
Note. — These, as well as certain of the dressed hors-
d'oeuvres, are generally served under the name of
hors-doeuvre varies.
French. English.
Anchois a I'huile Anchovies in oil
Anchois aux cypres Anchovies with capers
Anguilles fumdes Smoked eel
Anguilles marinees Pickled or soused eel
Betterave marin^e Pickled beetroot
Boeuf fume Smoked beef
Carrelots fum^s Smoked flounders
HORS-D'CEUVRE— APPETISERS.
59
French.
Caviar glace
Caviar riisse
CeUri &n salade
Celeri en salade
Clames Americains
Cornichons
Cornichons a la moutarde
Cresson alenois
Crevettes
Crevettes dressees
Ecrevisse garnie
Ecrevisges
Escargots farcis
Filets de harengs •
Greuouilles marinees
Harengs marines
Harengs a la remoulade
Huitres au naturel
Jambon d'Espagne
Jambon fum6
Jambon de Strasbourg
Jambon Westphalie
Lamproies k I'huile
Langouste
Langue de Boeuf fumee
Langue de Renne fumee
Lax fume a I'huile
Maquereau marine
Maquereaux k I'huile
Melesses f umees
Melon brod6
Melon cantaloup
Melon glace
CEufs, de mouettes
CEufs de pluviers
CEufs de vanneaux
Olives d'Espagne
Olives farcies
Olives LucuUus
pate de foie-gras
Petite artichauts crus
Poitrine d'oie fumee
Radis au beurre
Radis rose et'blanc
Royans k I'huile
Salami
Sand panachee
Sandwich aux anchois
Sandwich au caviar
Sandwich de foie-gras
English.
Iced caviare
Russian caviare
Celery dressed in mayonnaise
Celery-falad
American clams
French gherkins
Gherkins in mustard sauce
Garden cress
Prawns
Dressed prawns
Dressed crawfish
Crayfish
Stuffed snails
Fillets of herrings
Pickled frogs' legs
Pickled herrings [sauce
Pickled herrings in mustard
Oysters on shells
Spanish ham
Smoked ham
Strasburg cured and smoked ham
Westphalian ham ^
Lampreys in oil
Spiny lobster
Smoked ox-tongue
Smoked reindeer tongue
, Smoked salmon preserved in oil
Soused mackerel fillets
Mackerel in oil
Smoked sprats '
Pickled melon
French rock melon (iced)
Iced melon
Mew eggs (gull eggs)
Plovers' eggs
Lapwing eggs (puvet eggs)
Spanish olives
Stuffed olives
French olives
Goose-liver pie in terrines
Small young green artichokes
Smoked breast of goose
Small radishes with butter
Radishes, pink and white
Royans in oil
Smoked Milan sausage
Mixed sandwich with different
, kinds of meat, etc.
A nchovy sandwich
Caviare sandwich
Goose-liver sandwich
6o
PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY.
French.
Sandwich au fromage
Sandwichi de homard
Sandwich au jambon
Sandwich aux sardines
Sardines sans ar§tes
Sardines au citron
Sardines fumees
Sardines k I'huile
Sardines russe
Sardines a la tomate
Saucisson Wane
Saucisson de Bologne
Saucisson de Brunswick
Saucisson de foie-gras
Saucisson de foie de Stras-
bourg
Saucisson de jambon
Saucisson de Lyon
Saucisson de Milan
Saucisson de Mordadelle
Saucisson noir
Saucisson de perigueux
Saumon fume
Then k I'huile
Then marine
Thon en salade
Tomates crues
Tomates farcie
Tomate en salade
Tomate A la tartare
English.
Cheese sandwich
Lobster sandwich
Ham sandwich
Sardine sandwich
Boneless sardines [sauce
Sardines preserved in lemon
Smoked sardines
Sardines in oil
Russian sardines (pickled)
Sardines in tomato sauce
White sausage {smoked)
Bologna sausage
Brunswick sausage
Goose-liver sausage
Strasburg liver sausage
Ham sausage
Lyons sausage
Salami sausage
Mordadella or Italian sausage
Black sausage {smoked)
Liver and tritffle sausage
Smoked salmon {thinly sliced)
Tunny fish in oil
Pickled tunny fish
Tunny fish salad
Small fresh tomatoes, sliced
Stuffed tomatoes
Tomato salad
Tomatoes filled with tartare sauce
Note.— AU side dishes of this description should
be served on small glass or china dishes, and small
pats of butter ought to be handed round at the same
time.
Smoked provisions, such as salmon, ham, and sausage,
suitable for hors-d'oeuvre, cut into very thin slices, are
usually served in hors-d'oeuvre dishes.
Hors d'muvre garni — Dressed Hors-d'CEuvre.
App^tlssants Maconnais. — Small bread croutons hollowed
out and filled with pur6e of mussels, anchovies, e^g-
yolks, etc. ; decorated with savoury butter.
— & la Su6doIse. — Half-moon shaped slice of brown bread
spread over with anchovy and sardine paste, lined
with slice of lax ' or smoked salmon, garnished
with hard-boiled white of egg, gherkins, and stufied
olives.
Anchols sur Canapis. — Anchovy canapfees.
HORS-D'CEUVRE— APPETISERS. 6i
Anchois et queues d'Eerevisses au Capisantis. — Anchovies
and crayfish tails dressed in shells.
— en Salade. — Anchovy salad dressed with oil and
vinegar ; garnished with capers and hard-boiled eggs.
— en Surprise. — Small choux paste rolls/ fdled with
a puree of hard-boiled yolk of egg, anchovy paste,
capers, and herbs ; glazed and garnished with curled
anchovy fillets.
Artichauts d I'Grique. — Very small blanched artichokes,
marinaded in oil, vinegar, coriander seed, fennel, and
other herbs ; served with its liquor.
Ballotlnes de Homard i la R£f orme. — Ballotines of lobster,
reform style.
Barquettes de concombre, Danoise. — Small boat-shapes of
cucumber filled with a puree of smoked salmon,
.herring fillets, and hard-boiled eggs ; garnished with
grated horseradish and pimiento strips.
— & la Suedoise. — Small boat shapes of savoury choux
paste, baked and filled with caviare, masked with
pink chaudfroid sauce, and garnished with gherkins,
fillets, and lobster spawn or coral.
— au pois verts, Clanet. — Boat shaped thin tartlet
paste crust, baked and filled with green pea pur^e,
mixed with mayonnaise aspic, a little chutnej' in
centre of each ; surface garnished with sliced radishes,
and masked with aspic.
Batons de Caviar, Russe.^Thin water biscuits, oblong, or
triscuits cut to finger shape, spread with caviare,
iced, and coated with whipped cream, and decorated
with green herb butter.
BtBUf fum6 k la Hambourgeoise. — Smoked beef, Hamburg
style.
— ^ hachie k, 1' Aspic. — Finely shredded- beef with savoury
jelly.
Bonnes-Bouches k la Cardinal. — Lobster and anchovy
bonnes-bouches.
— de Caviar Russe. — Small, artichoke bottoms, sur-
mounted by a ring of cooked sole fillet, and filled
with artichoke caviare ; served iced.
— de Crevettes k I'Avondale. — Bouche-shaped cups of
pastry, filled with shrimps or prawn tails ; garnished
with tomato aspic.
— de Foie-gras. — Goose-liver patties.
— de Sardines. — Fancifully cut shapes of brown bread
filled with, sardine paste ; decorated with hard-boiled
egg and savoury butter.
62 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY.
Bonnes-Bouches de Sardines i la Royale. — Sardine patties,
royal style.
Brisolettes de Caviar. — Very small stuffing rolls, cut in
halves and filled with caviare, surface masked with
aspic, and garnished with anchovy fillets, parsley, etc.
— 4 la Moscovite. — Caviare dressed in paste crusts,
Moscow style.
* Canap6s Alberta. — Oval or finger-shaped crofites spread
with anchovy paste, lined with lax,- decorated with
chopped beetroot, green herb butter, anchovy butter,
and aspic.
— ^ I'Arlequln. — Oblong or crescent shapes of toasted
and buttered bread, with strips of tongue, smoked
salmon, gherkins, and truffles, arranged in harlequin
style.
— & la Coquelin. — Croutons of fried bread, spread over
with a paste composed of cooked ham, chicken, butter,
and grated cheese ; garnished with gherkins, beetroot,
and capers.
— & la Dlaua. — Layers of chopped ham, truffles, and hard-
Ijoiled egg-yolks placed alternately on croiitons of
bread ; decorated with chopped aspic.
— 4 la Darvelle. — Oval-shaped pieces of toasted or fried
bread, spread with anchovy paste, and finished with
layers of ham and caviare ; decorated with hard-
boiled eggs and aspic.
— de Pole-gras i la Russe. — Rounds of toasted bread
spread with foie-gras puree, a dice of hard-boiled
egg placed on top ; garnished with anchovy fillets
and caviare.
— Frivolltis Bohemlenne. — This name is applied to any
variety of light and daintily dressed hors d'oeuvres,
mostly of fancy character.
— & la Geneve. — Oblong croutons of fried bread, spread
with a paste composed of anchovy, sardine, and nam ;
garnished with hard-boiled egg-yolk and white, and
parsley.
— de Harengs i, la Russe. — Fingers of fried bread
spread with anchovy butter mixed witii herring roes ;
fillets of kippered herrings are placed on each ;
garnished with gherkins.
— de Homard & la Reine. — Lobster canapees, queen style.
— ' de Sardines d la FranQalse. — Small fried bread
croutons masked with sardine paste or butter, layers
of sardines, chopped parsley, and coated with
remoulade sauce.
* Canapfe. — This word is applied to boih Hors-d'ceuvre aud Savouries,
which are made of toasted or fried bread, previously cut into suitable sizes
and shape slices.
HORS-D'(EUVRE~APPETISERS. 63
Canapfis de Saumon tumS.— Smoked salmon on toast.
— d la Selon. — Buttered water biscuits covered with
slices of hard-boiled egg dipped in lemon juice and
chopped parsley, caviare in centre, and garnished
with prawns.
— ^ la Turque. — Finger-shaped pieces of fried bread,
spread with savoury ham mixture, decorated with
three distinct coloured butters, anchovy, herb, and
yolk of egg.
— !l la Turbigo. — Halves of very small bread rolls (stuffing
rolls), filled with crayfish tails, celery, truffle, and egg
white ; dressed with tomato and r6moulade sauce.
— d la Windsor. — Puree of cooked chicken fillets, ham,
tongue, butter, Cheshire cheese, mustard, and cayenne,
spread on canapees of fried bread ; garnished with
gherkins and hard-boiled egg whites.
Carolines. — Name applied to small finger shapes or ball
shapes of unsweetened choux paste baked, centre
scooped out and filled with cold savoury fish, foie-
gras or other dainty puree ; usually masked with
chaudfroid sauce.
Cassolettes de Betterave. — -Small cases made of cooked
beetroot, pickled, and filled with a salpicon of egg,
anchovies, capers, gherkins, etc.
— d, I'Epicurienne. — Little pastry cases filled with seasoned
lax, tongue, olives, and gherkins, all cut into fine shreds.
Caviar & TAllemande. — Small cooked kidney potatoes,
filled with caviare, with curled anchovy fillet on top,
and covered with chopped hard-boiled egg.
— en Belle-vue. — Halves of lemon prettily edged,
centre filled with caviare ; dressed on bread socle in
pyramidal form ; garnished with parsley.
— de Biliiga, glac6.— Shallow ice cup shape of plain water
ice and watercresses to form dish, which is filled with
fresh iced Biluga or best Russian caviare ; - served
with lemon, and thinly cut toast or wafer biscuits.
— aux BUnlS.^This is a special Russian dish, the
caviare being served on a glass dish set in a block of
ice ; garnished with quarters of lemon and parsley.
Blinis is served at the same time. It is a kind of
light yeast batter; without sugar, made into small
thin pancakes, and sent to table hot with a boat of
sour cream.
— sur Canapfi d la Rimoulade. — Caviare canapees,
remoulade style.
— d la Capuclne. — Small oval or boat-shaped bread
crusts, filled with caviare and chopped prawns,
seasoned with mayonnaise ; garnished with hard-
boiled egg and cress.
64 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY.
Caviar i, la Duchesse. — Small unsweetened choux paste
shapes baked, and filled with caviare, seasoned with
mayonnaise, or plain and iced ; coated with aspic jelly.
— aux Ecrevisses. — Small fried bread cups, filled with
caviare and prawns ; garnished with olives and
gherkins.
— en Mayonnaise. — Fresh Russian caviare, pounded,
with breadcrumbs, soaked in cream, and seasoned
with mayonnaise.
— en Salade.— A neatly dressed salad of caviare, and
small dice of tomato and hard-boiled egg.
Ciian4relles on Salade. — Chahtrelles are a species of mush-
room grown in Switzerland. When cooked they are
dressed with plain salad dressing, seasoning and
served as hors-d'ceuvre.
Concombres a la Danoise. — Cassolette shapes of cucumber
pickled, and filled with a salpicon of smoked salmon,
hard-boiled egg, with salad anchovy, seasoned with
mayonnaise.
Crabe garnie. — Dressed crab. The meat of crab, seasoned
with salad or cream dressing, refilled into the shell,
and garnished neatly.
Crofites d 'Ecrevisses h la Tartare. — Croutes of crayfish or
prawn tails, dressed with tartare sauce.
CroQtons ^ I'EspagnoIe. — Large Spanish olives, stuffed
v/itli tartare sauce, placed on round croutons, with
anchovy fillets twisted round olives ; decorated with
lobster coral, egg-j'olk, and parsley.
Darloles de Caviar. — Caviare darioles, dressed in small
tartlet pastry crust, seasoned.
— de Fole-gras. — Goose liver darioles.
— de Hoinr.rd i la Tomate. — Lobster darioles with
tomatoes.
— d'Huitres t la Carlton. — Oj'ster darioles, Carlton style.
— de Tomate 4 la Creme. — Tomato darioles with cream.
D611catesse Husse. — Name given to a collection of selected
small hors-d'oeuvre dishes of the Russian type.
Denises d la Turque. — Dainty little sandwiches filled with
prawns, tomato puree, hard-boiled egg, and anchovy,
and decorated with paprika butter.
— d la Princesse. —Dainty little sandwiches filled with
chicken puree, walnuts, and cream mixture ;
garnished with small cress.
Duehosse d la Russe. — Small ball shapes of baked uu-
sv/eetened choux paste, filled with a delicate chicken
puree, sauced, with mayonnaise, and coated with
chaudfroid sauce.
HORS-D'CEUVRE— APPETISERS. 65
Eclairs Karoly. — Baked choux paste eclairs (unsweetened),
filled with savoury game pur6e, and coated with
brown chaudfroid sauce.
Escargots aux flnes herbes. — Snails, with fine herb butter.
Frivolitis Boh^mienne. — This name is applied to any five
or more varieties of cold hors-d'oeuvre dishes, without
any specific rule.
Homard i, la CarSnie. — Lobster dressed Careme style.
Hors-d'(Euvre Su^doise. — Cold roast veal or chicken,
herring fillets (smoked), cold potatoes, and beetroot,
all cut up into small fillets or dice, seasoned with
French dressing and decorated with chopped hard-
boiled egg, etc.
Jambon sur Canapes. — Ham on fried bread croutons.
Laltance de CablUaud fum£ sur Canapes. — Smoked or
pickled tunny 'fish on toast.
Langue de Bosuf sur Canapes. — Ox-tongue, finely shredded
or in purfee form, on toasted or fried bread slices.
Lax fum6 aux Concombres. — Salad made of thin slices of
smoked salmon and thin slices of cucumber, neatly
dressed on small glass dishes.
Nids a la Chartres.^Little nest-shaped bread croutes
filled with foie-gras puree, decorated with truffle and
hard-boiled white and yolk of egg.
(Eufs farcis h la Russe. — Stuffed eggs, Russian style.
— il la Su^doise. — Small-hard-boiled eggs cut in halves,
filled with green herb butter and egg-yolk ; prettily
decorated and served on glass dishes.
Olives. — Both French and Spanish olives are used as
hors-d'ceuvre, but for dressed hors-d'ceuvre the latter
are best suited on account of their size.
— ^ I'Alsacienne. — Large Spanish olives stuffed with
foie-gras and ham puree ; dressed on croutons.
— & rAnchoiS. — Spanish olives stuffed with anchovy
crea.m, and curled round with anchovy fillets, dished
on bed of small salad.
— ik la Madias. — Spanish olives stuffed with anchovy
and chutney puree, dressed on croutons.
— it la Reine. — Large Spanish olives, farced with a puree
of anchovy, gherkins, and hard-boiled egg ; dressed
on croutons.
— 4 la Tartare. — Stoned Spanish olives filled with
tartare sauce, stiffened with aspic, and glazed with
savoury jelly.
Palmiers d'Ecrevisses. — Small oval-shaped paste crusts
filled with picked shrimps "and mayonnaise dressing
(cream), finished with chopped parsley and lobster
coral.
66 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY
pate d'Ecrevisses sur Canapes. — Potted crayfish spread on
small fingers of toasted bread.
Petites Bouch^es 2I la Caroline. — Very small rice cassolettes,
filled with chopped hard-boiled white of egg and
truffles, seasoned with mayonnaise.
— de Jambon i, la Crime. — Small puff-paste patties filled
with minced ham and cream.
Petites Caisses i la Casanova. — Small china or paper
ramakin cases, filled with celery and truffle shreds,
seasoned with tartare sauce, an oyster, slice of egg
on top, and decorated with green herb butter.
Polreaux i, la Russe. — The inner part (heart) of leek cut
into cube shapes, blanched, and marinaded, farced
with caviare, seasoned with mayonnaise and grated
horseradish.
Rosettes aux Anchols. — Small heart-shaped slices of fried
bread spread with anchovy butter and garnished
with anchovy fillets, with small mushroom head in
centre, arranged in Rosette form, and decorated with
green herb butter and chopped hard-boiled egg.
— de Caviar. — Small heart-shaped slices of brown
bread toasted, spread with caviare, decorated with
lobster butter, and dished up in rosette form.
Roulettes k la Creole. — Thinly cut slices of brown bread,
spread with game or chicken pur6e, mixed with
pounded capers and anchovy paste rolled up, buttered,
and sprinkled alternately with chopped parsley and
lobster coral.
Salades as Hors-d'ceuvre. — Cucumber, celery, celeriac,
melon, beetroot, tomatoes, hard-boiled eggs, cauli-
flower (cooked), artichokes (raw and cooked), cold
potatoes, French beans, etc., cut up small in shreds
or dice, dressed with mayonnaise or oil and vinegar,
are served as hors-d'oeuvre. These salads, however,
must not be confused with salads served with roasts.
Salade Bagration. — Finely shredded lettuce hearts, tunny
fish, and lobster cut in dice, also pickled beetroot,
seasoned with mayonnaise and garnished with stoned
olives and anchovy fillets.
— Russe. — Russian vegetable salad made of cooked
vegetables, set in aspic, with caviare in centre.
— Suidoise. — Cooked lean veal, fillets of salt herrings
or kippers ; cooked potatoes and beetroot, all cut in
dice ; seasoned with oil, vinegar, salt, and pepper ;
garnished with haid-boUed egg-yolks.
Sardines sur Canapes. — Sardine canap6es (boned and
skinned, and dressed on fried or toasted bread).
Souvenirs, Viennolse. — Small chicken quenelles, poached
and set in aspic, with vegetable mac6doine garnish.
HORS-D'(EUVWE— APPETISERS. 67
Tartelettes de Saumoa, Ecossaise.— Little tartlet crusts of
pastry filled with shreds .of cooked salmon and
mayonnaise aspic ; garnished with slices of hard-boiled
egg and truffle.
Tartines ^ la Baroda. — Very small sandwiches, lined with
chicken and rice puree, flavoured with curry ; masked
with white chaudfroid sauce, and decorated with set
aspic.
— i la Cardinal.-^Faijcifully cut sandwiches made of
brown bread and savoury lobster puree ; decorated
with truffle, hard-boiled egg, gherkin, and parsley.
— • de Caviar en chaudfroid. — Round fried bread
croutons, slit open and filled with caviare, coated
alternately with brown and white chaudfroid sauces,
dressed round a, small salad.
— LueuUus.— Finger-shaped puff pastry, seasoned with
cheese, and layer of anchovy paste In centre ; gar-
nished with olives and anchovy butter.
Thon marine sur Canapes. — Pickled tunny fish on toast.
Tomates Monigasque. — Small ripe tomatoes marinaded
and filled with chopped tunny fish, hard-boiled egg,
and fine herbs, seasoned with mayonnaise or French
dressing.
— en quartiers. — Peeled tomatoes, hollowed out in centre
and filled -with fish farce or vegetable macedoine,
seasoned with mayonnaise, aspic, iced and cut in
quarters before dishing up.
Tranches de Caviar, Remoulade. — Layers of bread covered
with caviare, decorated with savoury butter, and cut
into neat slices.
Zakousky. — This is the name given for hors-d'oeuvre
dishes in Russia. They consist of various kinds of
daintily dressed caviare, pickled or smoked fish, etc.
Certain Russian liqueurs are usually served with
Zakousky, which form a great feature in the Russian
cuisine.
Note. — A large number of these dishes are suited alike
as after-dinner savouries as well for hors-d'oeuvre,
especially those made from shell fish, smoked fish, eggs,
meat, and certain savoury vegetable mixtures.
For typical after-dinner savouries please refer to
Part XIII. at end of book.
68 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMV.
PART III,
POTAQES— SOUPS.
Next to hors-d'ceuvre, Soup forms the best introduction
to a meal ; it is, as far as the dinner is concerned, an
indispensable course, and therefore important. Soups arc
divided into four groups : Broths, Consommes, clear soups
with garnish ; purees of meat, poultry or game ; bisques
and fish soups ; and creams, or filtered soups made from
vegetables and farinaceous products. Sometimes the
choice of two or three varieties of soups are given at one
meal, in which case the clear soup, or consomme, must be
placed on the menu before the thick soups. Tlie present
fashion is in favour of one soup only, either clear or
thick. For a full-course dinner, or one of many courses,
a clear or light thick soup, cream or bisque, gives more
satisfaction than a heavy soup, because it conduces better
to the appreciation of the succeeding dishes. Heavy or
thick soups are generally considered more seasonable in
winter than in summer.
There are certain more or less flexible rules observed
in serving consomme : cheese straws, or grisini, fingers,
toasted bread and grated parmesan cheese are generally
handed round with it. Sherry is served with turtle soup ;
fried bread croutons with purees ; and celery salt with
vegetable and cream soups. With mulligatawny, both
thick and clear, a small dish of plain boiled rice is handed
round, unless included in the soup as garnish.
BOUILLONS— BROTHS.
(Unclarlfled Soups.)
Bouillon Alsacienne. — Beef and ham broth, garnished
with dice shapes of potatoes, julienne of leeks and
cabbage, and sippets of bread.
^ Ancienne. — Beef broth with small pieces of beef and
vegetables as garnish, small croutons of bread served
with cheese (gratine).
— de Boeuf. — Beef broth (not clarified).
— Bonne Femme. — Beef broth with usual garnish
and dice shapes of cooked potatoes.
POTAGES—SOUPS.^ 69
Bouillon Bouillabaisse. — Fish broths with slight saffron
flavour, garnished with mussels, crayfisli or lobster,
and other fish.
— Ecossalse. — Mutton broth with small pieces of lean
mutton and vegetables, and pearl barley as garnish.
— Henri IV. — Beef and chicken broth, garnished with
pieces of fowl, cooked rice and soup vegetables.
— Hotchepot. — Beef broth, garnished with small pieces of
ox-tail and ox-palate cooked in the broth, and the
usual garnish of vegetables.
— Marmite or Petite Marmite is a simply-made, but rich,
broth of beef and fowl or mutton cooked in an
earthenware pot (marmite), and as a rule served in
large or small (portion size) fire-proof earthenware
soup pots.
— de Mouton. — Mutton broth.
— aux CEufs. — Beef broth with beaten egg, usually
served in cups.
— Parisienne. — Beef broth, enriched with chicken boiled
in it, garnished with usual soup vegetables — cab-
bage, etc. , and pieces of beef ; baked bread crusts
handed separately.
— en tasses. — Beef broth, served in cups.
— de Veau. — Veal broth.
— de Volaille. — Chicken broth.
— de Volaille & I'Orge. — Chicken broth thickened with
pearl barley.
CONSOMMES— CLEAR SOUPS.
Consommi tt I'Atricalne. — A rich clear chicken soup,
flavoured with curry and garnished with rice and
small shreds of artichoke bottom.
— Agnelotti. — Clear soup with small Italian raviolis filled
with lamb farce, and poached.
— Ajoblanco. — Clear soup, slightly flavoured with garlic,
garnished with finely shredded sweet almonds.
— Albion (Maigre). — Fish consomme, a clarified fish stock,
thickened with tapioca, garnished with shreds of
lobster and truffle.'
— Alexandra. — Chicken consomme, thickened with
tapioca, garnished with small chicken quenelles,
finely shredded lettuce, and chicken fillets.
— Ambassadrlce. — Chicken consomme, garnished with
three different kinds of royal custard cut into round
cubes — i.e., tomato, truffle, and greeii pea purees,
also shreds of mushrooms and chicken fillets.
70 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY.
Consommi A I'Anclenne. — Chicken consomme, garnished
with small chicken quenelles and fried bread
croutons coated with cheese.
— Andalouse. — Clarified chicken stock with tapioca
(I quart to | oz. tapioca). Garnitures : small rounds
of tomato, cucumber cubes, and small chicken
forcemeat quenelles.
— Aurora. — Clear soup, flavoured and coloured with
tomato, thickened with tapioca, and garnished with
finely cut chicken fillets.
— Bairgneuse. — Clear soup with small forced lettuce balls.
— Bagration (Maigre). — A richly flavoured clear soup,
garnished 'with small fish quenelles, vegetable, and
prawns.
— Bavi6re (Bavarian). — A clear soup with very small
semolina dumplings.
— Belle-Fermldre. — Rich clarified chicken stock, garnished
with lozenge shapes of cabbage, French beans, and
nouillo paste (poached).
— Benjamin Lepols. — Kich chicken consommfe, garnished
with green peas, small cubes of truffle, and royal
custard containing chicken puree.
— Bohimlenne. — Clear soup with cubes of royal custard
and foie-gras, also small profiteroUes.
— Bouqnetldre. — Clear soup, garnished with spring vege-
tables daintily cut.
— Bourbon. — Chicken consomme, garnished with chicken
farce quenelles, fleur-de-lys shaped slices of truffle,
and pearl barley.
— Bretonne. — Clear soup with finely shredded leek,
celery, and mushrooms, also chopped chervil.
— Brisse. — Clear soup with a garnish of three varieties
of vegetable purle, custard, or plain boiled rice.
— Brunolse (Brunoise Soup). — A clear gravy soup with
finely minced carrots, turnips, leeks, and onions.
— Brunoise au Riz. — The same as above, witli the addi-
tion of some plainly boiled rice.
— Cabure. — Clear soup with small round slices of cabbage
and lettuce, also rounds of toasted bread coated with
cheese.
— Capucine. — Clear soup with finely shredded spinach
and small profiteroUes filled with chicken pur^e.
— Cardinal. — Consommfe, flavoured with tomato, gar-
nished with small lobster quenelles.
— CarSme. — Chicken and veal stock, clarified, and gar-
nished with slices of cooked carrot, lettuce, turnip,
leek, asparagus points, and thin rounds of bread
crusts.
POT AGES— SOUPS. n
Consommfi 4 la Carmen.— Clear soup, flavoured and
coloured with tomatoes, garnished with fine strips
of pimiento, chervil, and plain rice.
— Caroline. — Straw-coloured rich consomm6, garnished
with Carolina rice, royal custard, and chicken fillets,
both cut very small.
— Cil^stine (Celestine Soup). — A clear §ravy soup with
thin pancakes cut into julienne strips.
— Cbaneellidre. — Chicken consomme, garnished with rings
of royal custard, flageolets, and fine strips of truffles,
champignons, and beetroot.
— ChantUly. — Rich consomme, garnished with strips of
hard white of egg, chicken fillets, and rice.
— Chasseur. — ^A clear, game-flavoured soup, garnished
with small game quenelles.
— CbSteleine. — Clear soup with slight tarragon flavour,
garnished with royal custard, mixed with artichoke
puree, green peas, and French beans.
— Chiflonnade (Chifionade Gravy Soup). — A clear soup,
garnished with finely shredded spring onion heads,
green peas, and lettuce leaves stamped out round,
seasoned with green mint and tarragon leaves.
— Chpron 4 la Richelieu. — Clarified game stock, garnished
with julienne strips of cooked game, pea shapes of
young carrots, and Brazil tapioca.
— Choux (arcis, aux. — Clear soup garnished with stuffed
Brussels sprouts.
— Christlania. — Chicken consomme, garnished with pro-
fiteroUes, filled with chestnut purfee.
— Cbristophe Colombe. — Clear chicken broth with two
coloured diamond or ring shapes of poached royal
custard.
— Clair. — Clear soup (plain, without any kind of garniture).
— Claremont. — Clear soup with royal custard and fried
onion rings as garnish.
— Clodilde. — Clear soup with very small button onions
fried in butter and cooked in stock.
— Coek-a-Leekie (Cock-a-Leekie Soup). — Clear chicken
broth, with leeks cut into julienne strips, pearl barley,
and small dice of cooked chicken. Prunes are some-
times added as a garnish.
— Colbert. — A clear soup with small poached eggs and
green peas.
— Colombine. — Chicken consomme, garnished with jar-
diniere of carrots, turnips, and green peas, also fine
trips of pigeon iiUets, and poached pigeon eggs.
— Comtesse. — Clear soup with finely shredded lettuce,
chicken quenelles, chervil leaves, and royal custard
shapes.
72 PRACTICAL CASTRONOM
Consomm^ A, la Cond4.— A clear game soup, garnished
with quenelles of haricot bean puree and julienne
strips of partridge fillets.
— Crtcy. — Clear soup with very fine strips of red carrot
and pink royal custard.
— CroQte au Pot. — A clear beef soup, garnished with
stock-pot vegetables and very thinly cut pieces of
toasted bread.
— Cussy.— Clarified game, thickened with small game
farce quenelles, chestnut, and strips of truffles.
— Cyrano. — Clear soup, flavoured with duck (fumet), gar-
nished with small duck farce quenelles.
— Dame-blanche. — Rich consomme, garnished with fine
shreds of chicken fillets, white of egg, and chervil
leaves.
— Dant6. — Clarified beef stock in which two or three
roast pigeons have been cooked. Garniture : small
darioles of chicken farce in two colours, i.e., white
and yellow, the latter coloured with saffron, also
truffles and ox-tongue.
— Daumont. — Clarified beef stock with fine tapioca, and
a garnish of champignons and cooked ox-palate cut
into julienne strips.
— Dauphlne. — Clear soup with vegetable macedoine,
small cubes of royal custard, and profiteroUes.
— Demidoff. — Clear soup, thickened with tapioca, gar-
nished with small chicken quenelles, strips of truffles
and carrots.
— DisUgnac. — A clear soup with dice of royal custard. The
eggs for this are mixed with milk and stock,
finely chopped parsley, celery, and truffles before
poaching.
— Diablotin. — Clarified beef stock with tiny baked bread
crusts, seasoned with cheese and cayenne.
— Diane. — Game-flavoured consomme, enriched with
XerJs wine, with small game quenelles.
— Dietrich. — Clarified veal stock with garniture of
nouilles, carrots, turnips, and French beans, cut in
fine shreds.
— Diploraate. — A rich clear soup with poached egg-yolks
and small olive shapes of cucumber and turnip, also
very small button onions.
— Dorla. — Clear soup, garnished with pea-shaped cucum-
ber and profiteroUes.
— du Barry. — Clear chicken and veal stock, with cubes of
royal custard and finely shredded Jordan almonds.
— Dubelloy. — Clear chicken broth with royal custard,
green peas, and rice as garnish.
Missing Page
74 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY.
Consommi d la Grisonne. — Clear soup, garnished with
batter passed through a coarse colander into the soup
when boiling. ,
— Henri IV. — Chicken consomm6 or broth with suitably
cut soup vegetable and small chicken fillets, rice,
and chervil leaves.
— • Hombourg.— Clear soup with small calf's liver quen-
elles, round slices of beef marrow with pronounced
paprika flavour.
— Hongroise. — Clear chicken soup with tomato flavour,
strips of tomatoes tossed in butter, and paprika
seasoning.
— Imp^rlale. — Clear chicken soup, garnished with whole
poached yolks of eggs and shreds of ham and truffles.
— Indlenne. — Clear mulligatawny soup, served with
cooked rice.
— Intante. — Chicken consomme, garnished with small
bread croutons coated with liver pur6e or farce.
— Irma. — Rich clear soup with small chicken quenelles
each filled with green peas prior to poaching.
— Italienne (Italian). — Clear soup with small pieces of
macaroni, cubes of spinach, and tomato custard
(royal).
— Jardlnldre. — Clear soup, garnished with carrots, turnips,
and celery scooped out in olive shapes.
— JolnvUIe. — Chicken consomme with pea shapes of
carrot, royal custard, two kinds, one mixed with
chicken pur6e, and one with green pea purfee.
— Jubil^. — Chicken consomm6 with julienne strips of
celery, truffle, and tomato.
— Judlc. — Clear soup with finely shredded lettuce, chive,
and chervil.
— Julienne. — Clear soup with carrots, turnips, onions,
leeks, cabbage, and lettuces, cut into very thin
strips, called julienne, about an inch long.
— Juliette. — Clarified chicken stock, with a garnish con-
sisting of very small cream quenelles, green pea
puree a la Royal cut in cubes, tiny rounds of
truffle, and lozenge shapes of hard-boiled white
of egg.
— Kapriva (Russian). — Consomme with small fried eggs,
sorrel, and slices of smoked sausage, served with
sour cream.
— Kiselefl (Russian). — Chicken consomme with julienne
strips of celeriac and leek, strips of ham, and chicken
fillet.
— Kolodnlk (Polish). — Iced chicken consomm6, garnished
with hard white of egg and cucumber cut in fine
strips, also crayfish tails.
Consomm§ &Ia Lafltte.^-Chicken consomme flavoured with
sherry or marsala, garnished with financiere.
— Laltues. — Clear soup with finely shredded lettuce
(tossed in butter).
— Leopold. — Clear soup with semolina, shredded lettuce,
■ and sorrel.
— Lllienne. — Clear soup, flavoured with tarragon and
chervil, and garnished with a julienne of slightly
baked almonds, truffles, and mushrooms.
— Lorette. — Clear soup with finely cut strips of celeriac,
potato, pimiento, and truffle.
— Macaroni. — Clear soup, garnished with cooked macaroni
cut into short pieces.
— Madrid. — Tomato-flavoured clear soup, garnished with
thin slices of skinned and cooked tomatoes.
— Magenta. — Rich clear soup, flavoured and coloured
with ripe tomatoes, and mac^doine of vegetables as
garnish.
-^ Maigre. — -Clear fish soup (Lenten soup) made with
fish stock and vegetables.
— Maintenon. — Clear soup with strips of tomato and
leeks, served with small toasted cheese croAtons.
— Maneelle. — Clarified beef and veal stock, garnished
with dice shapes of roasted chestnuts and julienne
strips of cooked game or poultry.
— Merc6dds.— Rich clear soup with star shapes of cocks'
combs and cucumber, flavoured with Xirte wine.
— Messallne. — Clarified chicken broth with tomato
essence, garnished with cock's kernels, Carolina rice,
and Spanish pimientos cut in julienne.
— Metternlch. — Clarified beef stock, flavoured with
chicken, garnished with cooked tomatoes cut into
dice, and chicken fillets.
— MIgnon (Maigre). — -Fish consomme with crayfish tails,
strips of trufiBe and fish quenelles.
— Mikado. — A curry-flavoured clear chicken soup, garn-
ished with finely-shredded chicken fillets and cooked
rice.
— Milanaise.-^-Clear soup, garnished with cooked rice,
dice of ox-tongue, and shreds of ripe tomatoes.
— Mlrianne. — Clarified chicken stock with the following
garnish : plainly cooked rice tossed in lobster butter,
to which is added oysters cut in dice, chopped trufiies
and pistachios, the whole moistened with white •
sauce and cheese as for salpicon ; filled in very small
shell-shaped thin paste crusts, which are handed
round with the consomme.
— Mock Turtle. — Clear soup with strips of calf's head
(turtle flavour).
76 PRACTICAL GASTRONOM
ConsommS i la Moelle de Boeuf (Beef Marrow).— Cleax
soup with small marrow-fat quenelles.
— Monaco. — Clear soup with stuffed fried bread quen-
elles.
— Monte Carlo. — Clear soup with small chicken quenelles
and profiterolles, shredded lettuce, and chervil.
— Monte Christo. — Chicken consomme with brunoise of-
vegetables and profiteroUes.
— Nansen. — Iced consomme, served with small caviare
croutons.
— Nantaise. — Clear soup with pearl barley, garnished with
chicken fillets and green peas.
— Napoleon. — Clarified chicken stock, garnished with
small foie-gras Talmouse (triangular-shaped nouille
paste stuffed with foie-gras puree), and poached in
stock.
— Napolitaine. — A game-flavoured clear soup with
macaroni, shreds of celery and ham as garnish.
— Nationale. — Beef consomme with croute au pot gar-
nish.
— Nelson. — ^Turtle-flavoured clear soup with tliree varieties
of chicken quenelles (red, white, and green).
— Nimours. — Clear soup, garnished with diamond shapes
of custard made with carrot puree, bechamel sauce,
and egg-yolks.
— Nesselrode. — Clear soup with small chestnut quenelles.
— NifOise. — Chicken consomme, garnished with tomato
strips, dice of potatoes, and flageolets.
— Nids d'Hirondelles. — Clear soup, garnished with Chinese
bird's nest (salenganes), previously poached.
— Normande., — Clarified chicken stock, garnished with
green peas and soup vegetables.
— NoulUes. — A clear soup with nouilles (a kind of macaroni
paste, only flat instead of round).
— Nouveau Rigne. — Rich chicken consomme, witii a
special kind of chicken quenelle, made by having
cubes of richly flavoured aspic and gold- leaf intro-
duced prior to being cooked, these quenelles being
put into the soup just at the moment of serving.
— (Eufs fll6s. — Clear soup with beaten egg run through
a colander whilst the soup is boiling.
— Olga. — Clarified chicken broth with julienne strips of
chicken breast, ox-tongue, and truffles, also green
peas
— OUa-Podrida (Spanish). — Clear soup or broth made
from various kinds of meat — ox-tail, pig's-tail, and
mutton breasts, garnished with sausage, ham, and
vegetable, all cut in slices.
-■^^■^'~^simj!r-jsn^
Missing Page
78 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY
Consomm§ a la PrinlanWre (Spring Soup);— A clear gravy
soup, garnished with finely-cut spring vegetables.
— Prlntanldre aux Quenelles.— Clear soup with poached
chicken forcemeat quenelles and macedoine of spring
vegetables.
— Proflterolles.— Clear soup with very small cheese paste
fritter.
— Pyr^nalse.- Clarified mutton stock with brunoise
vegetables, tomato strips, and nouilles or Italian
paste as garnish.
— Quenelles {rites.- Clear soup, garnished with very
small choux paste quenelles, fried.
— Quenelles de VolaUle (Chicken Quenelle Gravy Soup).—
A clear soup with small, chicken forcemeat dumplings.
— Queues de Boeuf. — Clear ox-tail soup.
— Rabelais. — Game-flavoured consomme, garnished with
small game quenelles and julienne strips of truffle and
celery.
— Rachel. — A richly flavoured clear soup with small
chicken quenelles, dice of tongue, and truffles.
— Ramboule. — Clear chicken soup, garnished with
stamped-out rounds of poached chicken quenelle
meat and young green peas.
— Raphael. — Chicken consomme with very small dice
shapes of celeriac (tossed in butter).
— • Ravioli. — A clear soup made with chicken and veal
stock, with little round nouille paste shapes stuffed
with forcemeat (poached).
— R§jane. — Chicken consomme, flavoured with chervil,
garnished with dice of carrot and egg strips (oeufs
fil6s).
— Renaissance. — Clear soup with sliced white mushrooms,
green peas, rice, and small cheese croutons (separate).
— Riche. — Chicken consommfe with small chicken quen-
elles forced with truffle.
— Richelieu (Carfime maigre). — Fish consomm6 (tomato-
flavoured), garnished with small lobster quenelles.
— Rlz. — Clear soup, garnished with plain boiled rice.
— des Rois. — A rich chicken stock, clarified, garnished
with julienne strips of quail fillets, truffles, and
asparagus points. Parmesan croutons handed sepa-
rately.
— Rossini. — Consomm^ double, garnished with very
large macaroni, boiled, drained, and forced with
joie-gras cream, poached and cut into small, short
pieces.
— Rothschild. — Game consommS, garnished with finely
cut pheasant fillets, chestnuts, and strips of truffles,
ConsommS a la Royale. — Clear soup with poached egg
custard, called royal, cut into cube, dice, round,
diamond, or other fancy shapes.
— Russe (Russian). — Clear soup with finely-cut slices of
carrots, beetroot, celery, and leeks, flavoured with
beetroot juice.
— Sagou (Sago Soup). — Clear soup with sago.
— Salvator. — Clear soup with dice shaped ripe tomatoes
and chervil leaves.
— Santos-Dumont. — Consomme of chicken lie with
Brazilian tapioca, garnished with carrots cut in
small olive shapes, French beans cut in julienne
shapes, and turnips scooped out in pea shapes.
— Sarah Bernhardt. — Rich chicken consomme, garnished
with small chicken quenelles, crayfish tails, fine
tapioca, and tiny bits of blanched beef marrow.
— Saxonne. — Clear soup with tapioca, small pink chicken
quenelles, dice of beef marrow, and green peas.
— Semoule. — Clear soup with finely-grained semolina
cooked in the consomme.
— S£vlgn6, — A clear soup with small chicken quenelles.
— Solterino. — Clear soup with carrots, turnips, and
potatoes, cut out with a small round vegetable scoop,
termed, in French d la cuillere.
— Souveraine. — Chicken consomme, garnished with dice-
shaped vegetables and small chicken quenelles.
— St. Georges. — Clear / soup made from hare stock,
flavoured with claret, garnished with hare quenelles,
champignons, and truffles.
— St. Saens. — Chicken consomme, garnished with fine
pearl barley and small dice of black-skinned potatoes,
known as pommes de terre negresse.
— Stschy (Russian). — Clear soup made from duck and
beef, flavoured with beetroot juice, and garnished
with small fried button onions.
— Talma. — A rich clear soup, garnished with almond-
flavoured custard cut into cubes or diamonds, and
rice.
— Tapioca (Tapioca Soup). — A clear soup with tapioca.
— Tchy de Soldat (Russian). — A clear soup made with
duck and veal stock, garnished with vegetables cut
into small strips, and dice shapes of duck fillets.
— Tlvoli. — Clear soup with coarse-grained semolina and
small ravioles.
— Tortue. — Clear real turtle soup.
— Tortue Fausse. — Clear mock turtle soup.
— Tosca. — Clear soup, garnished with fried profiteroUes,
pea-shaped carrots, and truffle.
8o PRACTICAL GASTBONOl.
Consomm£ h la Toscane. — Clear soup, garnished with sliced
tomato, fried aubergine, and macaroni.
— Vrianon. — Clear soup with dice shape of cucumber and
chicken fillets, and strips of tomato and chervil.
— Vatel. — Clear soup with small chicken quenelles (red),
truffle filling, also finely cut tarragon and chervil.
— Veneur. — A rich, clear soup, garnished with finely
shredded lettuce hearts, celery, and truffles.
— Vermicelles. — Clear soup with vermicelli.
— Victor Emanuel. — Clear soup with short pieces of
spaghetti (macaroni), strips of tomatoes, and royal
custard ; served with grated cheese.
— Victoria. — Chicken consomme, garnished with julienne,
strips of truffle, chicken fillets, and royal custard.
— Vlennolse. — Clear soup with profiteroUes stuffed with
cheese, cream, and paprika.
— Vltellus. — Clear chicken-flavoured soup, thickened with
pearl barley, and garnished with lozenge strips of
nouille paste.
— Vivian. — Cold chicken consomme, garnished with small
dice-shaped cooked cucumber, tomato, and lettuce
leaves, also cubes of royal custard made with aspic
and cream, and cut out when set.
— Voiaiiie. — Clear chicken soup.
— Volaille frapp4. — Iced clear chicken soup.
— Windsor. — Turtle-flavoured clear soup, with finely cut
strips of calf's foot and veal quenelles.
— Xavier. — A vegetable-flavoured clear soup, with a kind
of cheese-flavoured batter quenelles run through a
colander into the soup.
CREMES, PUREES— POTAGES LIES.
(Creams, Purees, and other Thick Soups.)
Bortsch Polonaise. — A rich beef soup of broth-like con-
sistency, flavoured with duck essence, beetroot juice,
and sour cream, dice of duck fillet as garnish.
Bisque do Crevettes (Shrimp Soup, puik).— .4 cream-like
puree of fish stock and shrimps or prawns.
— Ecrevlsses (d') (pink).— Crayfish puree or cream soup.
— Homard (de) & la Mariniere (Lobster Bisque). — Lobster
,cream soup with small fish quenelles as garnish.
— Homard (de) i la Parlsienne. — Lobster cream soup.
— aux Huttres (Oyster Pur6e). — A light, cream-like
oyster soup, served with croutons.
POTAGES— SOUPS. 8i
Bisque Langoustes (de) (Crawfish, pink).— A cream-lilce
puree of sea crawfisli or large lobsters.
— P6toncles (dD). — Scallop cream or pur6e soup (white).
CrSme h rAfrlcaine. — Cream of rice soup, flavoured with
curry, with small dice shapes of artichoke bottoms
and aubergine.
— Ambassadrice. — Green pea cream, blended with sorrel
and lettuce puree, chervil and green peas as garnish.
— Andalouse (Maigre).— Cream of rice soup (fish or
vegetable stock), with addition of very little tomato
puree.
— Artichauts ( d'). — Green artichoke soup (cream or puree).
— Asperges (d') & la PrlntanlSre.— Asparagus cream, with
jardiniere, vegetables as garnish.
— Avolne (d'). — Oatmeal soup with cream (white).
— Cambaoeres (Spanish). — A blend of lobster bisque,
chicken puree, and pigeon puree — one third of each —
finished with cream and garnished with crayfish tails.
— C£l£ri (de). — Celery puree or cream soup.
— Champ^noise. — Cream of potato soup, blended with
puree of celery and leek, chopped chervil, and
croutons.
— Chatelaine. — Green pea and onion pur6e, blended
together with cream and herbs.
— Chlcor^e (de) au Velout£. — Puree of chicoree or endive,
enriched with cream and egg-yolks.
— Clementine. — Light chicken cream, with three-coloured
royal stamped out in small cubes.
— Concombre (de) & la Relne. — Cucumber cream with dice
of royal custard.
— Dame-Blanche. — White chicken pur6e with cream,
flavoured with sweet almonds, garnished with barley
and royal custard.
— Orge (d'). — Pearl barley soup with cream (white).
— Rlz (de). — Filtered rice cream soup (white).
— • Valeneienne. — White cream of rice soup, with a liaison
of sago cooked in consomme.
— ^ Volaille (de) Chevalidre. — -Light white chicken cream,
with truffles and tongue julienne as_garnish.
— Volaille (de) aux Ecrevlsses (white). — Light chicken
cream with crayfish tails as garnish.
— Volaille (de) a la Fran(;aise (fawn). — A light brown
chicken puree enriched with cream.
Potage Albion. — rBrown giblet soup with pea-shaped
cucumber and carrots as garnish.
— des Ambassadeurs. — A light cream soup, made with
chicken stock, rice and peas pur6e, and finely
shredded sorrel,
82 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY.
Potage Amiricalne (American). — Tomato soup, blended
with a -little lobster puree (bisque), and thickened
with rice or tapioca. ,
— Andalouse. — Light white soup (vear stock foundation)
mixed with tomato puree, and nouilles as garniture.
— Anguilles t rAllemande.' — German eel soup (white).
— Ardenals. — Game (pheasant) pur6e, blended with red
lentil puree and cream.
— Argentenil (Asparagus). — Filtered rice and cream soup
with asparagus points.
— d'Asperges t la Princesse (Asparagus Soup, Princesse
Style, white). — Asparagus puree, garnished with
asparagus points and rice.
— d'Asperges aux Quenelles. — Asparagus puree with
small chicken quenelles.
— Aubergine. — Egg plant or vegetable marrow soup
(white).
— • Bagration.— A light cream made of veal stock, gar-
nished with small chicken quenelles.
— Balmoral. — Pur6e of mutton, flavoured with turtle
seasoning and finely cut calf's foot.
— Bavlere (Bavarian). — Lentil puree with slices of
smoked sausage.
— Bicasses. — Woodcock or snipe pur6e soup (brown).
— Bercy. — Puree of young turnips with cream liaison.
— B16 vert aux ceuls. — Green corn soup with eggs and
cream liaison.
— Boeul (de). — A thick, brown soup made of beef.
— Bonne Femme (Good Woman). — Sorrel cream soup
with small chicken forcemeat quenelles.
— BouiUe-i-Balsse. — A rich fish soup, with small fillets
of fish, onions, and tomato strips as garnish.
— Bourgeolse. — Chicken cream with addition of finely
shredded turnips and celery.
— Bretonne. — A puree of white haricot beans, blended
with tomato pulp (fried t)read crofttons).
— Cailles. — Quail soup (brown), pur^e or cream.
— Canard i I'Anglalse (de).— A thick soup made from
duck giblets (brown).
— Capri. — A thick game soup, garnished with minced
quail fillets and cocks' combs.
— Carmen. — Light cream of rice soup, blended with
tomato puree, with fine strips of pimiento, tomato,
and rice.
— Carottes. — Pur6e of carrots (pink).
— Castelaine. — A thick brown soup made with beef.
rr- C616rl i. I9 Crdme, — Pur6e of celery with cream,
POTAGES— SOUPS. 83
PQtage Champignons (de).— Mushroom soup (light brown).
— Chantilly. — Lentil pur^e with cream liaison, served with
small croutons.
— Chartreuse. — A white cauliflower pur^e with tapioca
and cream.
— ■ Chasseur (Hunters Soup, brown). — A game pur6e with
minced mushrooms and small dice of cooked game.
— Choux de Bruxelles (pale green). — Brussels sprouts
soup.
— Choux-FIeuTs. — Pur6e of cauliflowers with croutons.
— Choux-FIeurs k la Creme. — Cauliflower soup enriched
with cream.
— Clamart. — Green pea pur6e with cream liaison, and
fresh whole peas as garniture.
— Compldgne. — White haricot bean puree with sorrel and
chervil.
— Comtesse. — Asparagus and pea puree and cream
liaison, with green asparagus tops.
— Pur§e de Concombre. — Cucumber soup.
— Cond£ (red). — A thick soup made with fried croutons,
haricot beans, and cream liaison.
-^ Crficy. — Puree of young carrots (red part only) thick-
ened with rice or barley.
— Cressoni^re. — Potato pur6e and watercress pur6e,
blended with cream and egg-yolks.
— Cussy. — Game pur6e with small partridge quenelles,
round of truffle, and game shreds.
— ■ Czarine. — Game pur^e, blended with chestnut cream.
— • Danolse. — Chicken purfee with pea shapes of spring
vegetables.
— Dartoise. — Puree of white haricot beans with finely
cut vegetables (brunoise).
— Dauphine. — Pea puree, blended with tomato pulp and
fine strips of lean ham.
— • Demldoff, — A light brown chicken puree, garnished
with julienne strips of mushrooms, truffles, and
carrots, also small braised button onions.
— Diane.— Game (partridge) puree with small game
quenelles and strips of truffles.
— Dieppoise. — V/hite fish soup with mussels and cream
liaison (fried croutons).
— Doyen. — A blend of green pea purfee and chicken cream
soup, with small chicken quenelles and green peas as
garnish.
— Dubarry. — Cream of cauliflower soup, with small
cauliflower-buds as garnish.
— Duchesse. — A light chicken cream, garnished with rice
and savoury custard (royal).
84 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY.
Potage Duchesse. — A light puree of fowl with minced
chicken or game fillets, and truffles as garnish.
— Dumonteuil. — A bisque of crawfish blended with
tomato puree egg-yolk liaison and cream), garnished
with small fish quenelles.
— ■ Ecossalse (Hotch Potch). — National Scotch soup, con-
sisting of mutton broth, finely-cut carrots, turnips,"
leeks, parsley, cauliflowers, and peas.
— Egyptlenne. — Puree of lentils, with finely shredded
ham and fried croutons.
— Ena. — Chicken cream soup with cucumber strips,
also sorrel and chervil (pluche), and croutons.
— Eplnards. — Spinach pur^e, soup (green).
— Espagnole (Spanish Soup). — A brown beef or mutton
blended soup with onion puree.
— Esturgeon. — Sturgeon soup (white).
— Excelsior. — Asparagus pur6e with barley cream liaison,
and whole Nizam pearl barley as garnish.
— Falsan. — Pheasant soup (light brown).
— Faisan t la Diana. — A light puree of pheasant, flavoured
with claret and cream, garnished with small game
quenelles.
— Faisan. — Pur6e of pheasant, with sherry flavour and
cream liaison.
— Faubonne. — Puree of French lentils and haricot beans,
enriched with cream, garnished with green peas and
fried bread croutons.
— Fausse Tortue (Mock Turtle Soup, thick). — A brown
thick soup made from calf's head, flavoured with
sherry or Marsala wine, garnished with small pieces
of calf's head.
— Favorite. — White chicken pur6e diluted with consomme
with Brunoise — i.e., finely minced carrots, turnips,
and leeks, as garnish.
— Fermlire (Farmhouse Soup). — Potato soup with minced
carrots and turnips.
— Flamande (Flemish). — Pur^e of Brussels sprouts,
celery, and potato, with cream liaison (croutons).
— Florentine.— Spinach puree with cream liaison and
croutons.
— Fonds d'Artlchauts (de). — Artichoke bottom soup
(white).
— Freneuse. — Pur^e of young turnips with cream liaison.
pea-shaped turnip and carrot as garnish.
— Garbure. — White vegetable pur6e with small cheese
coated croutons.
— Gascogne. — Potato pur^e with grated parmesan cheese,
cream and egg liaison, and small ravioles or profite-
roUes.
POTAGES— SOUPS. 8$
Pptage Gellnotte. — Grouse soup (brown).
^- Gentiihomme (Gentleman's Soup, brown). — Puree of
rabbit, pork, and ham, garnished with mioced
sausages and mushrooms.
— Geiitilhomme. — Puree of game with sherry or marsala
flavour, and croutons.
— Georges Sand. — White fish cream soup with shredded
lettuce and crayfish tails.
— Georgette. — Tomato and carrot puree, blended together
with pearl barley as garnish.
— Gibiei (de). — ^Filtered game soup (brown).
— Gibier ^ I'Anglaise. — English game giblet soup.
— Gibier a la Cond6. — Venison soup with lentils.
— Gounod. — A light green peas puree made with rich
chicken stock, garnished with julienne of chicken
fillets.
— Grenouilies (de). — Filtered frog soup (white).
— Gr^que (Greek). — Puree of peas and mutton broth
(blended), garnished with julienne strips of vegetables.
— Gulyas (Hungarian). — Puree of beef and green peas
(onion flavour), potato dice, and paprika seasoning.
— Haricot Blanc. — White haricot bean puree.
— ■ Huitres (aux). — Oyster soup (white).
• — Imperiale. — A white soup composed of cream of rice
and tapioca, garnished with shreds of truffle.
— Indlenne. — Mulligatawny soup, with addition of
cocoanut milk and rice.
— Iriandaise. — A kind of thick mutton broth.
— Istrlenne. — Puree of chestnuts and tomatoes, flavoured
with juice of pomegranates, and finished with a
liaison of egg-yolks and cream (Austrian origin).
— Italienne. — A light mutton or lamb puree, garnished
with macaroni, slice of fowl, and macedoine.
-^ Jackson. — Potato soup enriched with cream and egg
liaison.
— Japonnaise. — Puree of crosnes, with cream liaison and
Japanese pearl barley.
— Jeanette. — Puree of safsifits, enriched with cream and
egg yolk liaison, garnished with rice and small chicken
quenelles.
— Judic. — Tomato puree with cream and mushroom
essence, finely shredded mushrooms arid ham as
garnish.
• — Krupnick (Polish). — Cream of pearl barley with
chicken puree, garnished with small dice vegetables
and chicken fillets.
— Laitues (de). — Lettuce soup (green), cream or puree.
86 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY.
Potage Lapln^A roseille. — Rabbit puree, soup with sorrel.
— Lavallidre. — Wliite chicken cream soup with celery and
profiteroUes.
— Lentilles. — ientil soup (cream or puree).
— LentlUes h la Brunolse (Lentil Soup, Brunoise style). —
Filtered lentil soup with finely cut vegetables.
— LiSvre i, I'Anglalse. — English hare soup (brown).
^- Macaroni au Lalt. — Macaroni soup with milk (white).
— MacMahon. — A curry-flavoured cream-like soup, gar-
nished with pieces of calf's brain and cubes or slices
of cooked cucumber.
— Madeleine. — Rich consomm6 stock blended with
haricot bean and tomato puree, with leek and carrot
strips as garnish.
— Malakoff (Russian). — Puree of potatoes, blended with
spinach and tomato pulp.
— Marichale. — Bread soup with cream and small lobster
quenelles.
— Marquise. — Chicken cream soup, with braised lettuce
and peas as garnish.
— Marie-Louise. — Pearl barley soup with cream and small
chicken quenelles.
— Marie-Stuart. — White chicken cream with foie-gras
cubes, carrot, and green peas as garnish.
— Marlgny. — Puree of green peas, blended with sorrel
and lettuce (chiffonade) and chervil.
— Marrons. — Puree of chestnuts.
— Marrons i, la Chasseur (fawn). — Chestnut puree,
enriched with cream and garnished with dice of
cooked game.
— Martha. — Chicken cream soup, blended with onion
puree (soubise) and rice.
— Mathild^e. — Cucumber puree, enriched with cream, and
peas or olive shapes of cucumber as garnish.
— Mauviettes St. Hubert. — This is a pale brown cream
soup, made with veal stock, roux, and braised larks,
garnished with fillets of larks cut into strips.
— Midicis. — Sorrel puree, blended with green pea and
carrot purees.
— Mero6des.— Jerusalem artichoke puree, enriched with
cream and egg-yolks, garnished with dice of artichoke
bottoms and chicken fillets.
— Monaco. — Bfechamel cream soup with egg yolk liaisofi,
and sippets of toasted bread.
— Montglas. — A thick soup made of capon, with minced
truffles and mushrooms.
— Montmorency. — Chicken cream soup with grated
parmesan. braised lettuce, and vermicelli as garnish.
fUTAGHH— SOUPS. 87
Potsge Montpensler.— Cream of rice soup, blended with
.• cauliflower puree (fried croutons).
— Morilles, — Puree of morilles (a species of mushroom),
with cream and morilles cut in fine strips.
— Mozart.— Puree of French beans blended with game
puree and cream (croutons).
— Mufle de Boeuf. — Ox-cheek puree soup (brown).
— Mulligatawny. — Thick mulligatawny soup, curry
flavour, and rice.
— Murillo (Maigre). — Tomato puree, enriched with fish
essence and cream, garnished with small fish
quenelles.
— Nelousko. — A white chicken cream soup with small
veal or chicken quenelles.
— N6mours. — Potato puree, blended with rich consomme
and liaison of cream and egg-yolks (croutons).
— Nemrod. — Puree of game with profiterolles forced with
game puree.
— Nimoise (Maigre). — White fish cream soup, blended
with tomato puree.
— Nissarde (Maigre). — Vegetable marrow or pumpkin
soup, thickened with tapioca and cream liaison.
— Nivernaise. — A puree of vegetables, potatoes, turnips,
leeks, and sprouts, enriched with cream and garnished
with jardinidre.
— Normande (Maigre). — Puree of leeks, celery, and
potatoes, garnished with celery shreds and chervil.
— Oignons (aux). — Onion soup, white or brown.
— Okra. — Puree of tomalio aiid gambos, cream liaison.
— Orleans. — A chicken puree with tapioca as liaison.
— Orleans Maigre. — A soup made with white bread and
milk, finished with cream.
— Osellle. — Puree of sorrel (light green).
— Ostendaise. — White fish soup with oysters, cream
liaison, and quarters of oysters as garnish.
— Pain-bis ^ la Russe. — Russian brown bread soup with
poached eggs.
— Palestine. — Puree of Jerusalem artichokes with small
bread croutons.
— Parmentler (Parmentier Soup, cream). — A cream-like
potato soup with croutons of fried bread.
— Patti. — Artichoke puree with cream liaison, and rice
as garnish.
— Pauvre Hoinme (Poor Man). — A kind of brown meal
soup, the flour being roasted with butter or dripping
to a chestnut brown colour. "
— Pavilion. — Purees of peas and stachys, blended with
mixed vegetable (brunoise) as garnish.
88 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY.
Potage Perdreaux. — Partridge soup with croutons.
— Perdreaux h la Grand Due (brown).— Partridge puree,
thickened with oatmeal, garnished with small mush-
room quenelles.
— Pieds de Veau. — Calf's feet soup (white).
— Pierre le Grand. — White barley cream (veal stock
foundation), with puree of pigeon and dice of pigeon
fillets as garnish.
— Pigeons Sauvages (brown). — Wild pigeon soup.
— Pluche (pink).— Potato soup with finely minced carrots
and herbs.
— de Pluvlers (brown). — Plover soup.
— Poireaux. — Puree of leeks with crofitons.
— Poireaux k la Creme. — Leek soup enriched with
cream.
— Pur6e de Pois. — Filtered pea soup (made from dried
peas), served with croutons.
— Pols Vert. — Green pea soup.
— Polonaise (Polish Soup, light brown). — A puree of beef
and pork, with sauerkraut as garnish.
— Pommes de Terre. — Potato soup (white) with croutons.
— Pompadour. — Pur6e of lentils, thickened with tapioca
and cream liaison,
— Portugaise. — Purees of tomato and onion, flavoured
with garlic, garnished with rice.
— Potiron. — French pumpkin soup.
— Prince de Galles (Prince of Wales Soup, brown). — A
thick mock turtle with small veal quenelles.
— Princesse. — Chicken cream soup, with pearl barley and
asparagus tops as garnish.
— Quebec (Maigre). — White haricot bean puree, enriched
with cream, garnished with finely cut vegetables.
— Queues de Boeuf (Ox-tail). — Thick ox-tail soup with
jardinifere or macedoine vegetable garnish (brown).
— Queues de Veau h. I'lndienne (Indian Calf's Tail Soup).
— A thick calf's tail soup, flavoured with curry and
garnished with rice.
— Rachel. — White veal purde, enriched with cream,
garnished with strips of fried bacon, calf's head,
and slices of truffle.
— Raphael. — Chicken puree, garnished with dice shapes
of celeriac and rice.
— Rigence (Regent). — A light puree of fowls, garnished
with macfedoine of vegetables.
— Reine (Queen). — A cream-like chickea soup, gcirnished
with small chicken quenelles and rice.
— Beiue Margot. — Chicken cream soup with rice.
POTAGES— SOUPS. 89
Palfage Reine Wilhelmine. — Chicken puree, thickened
, ' with rice, cream and egg-yolk liaison, with asparagus
points and julienne strips of cooked carrots and
truffles as garnish.
— Ris de Veau & la Reine. — Sweetbread soup, queen
style.
— Risotto. — Rice puree, mixed with tomato pulp diluted
with rich consomme.
— Riz aux Choux. — Light cream of rice soup with
julienne cut white cabbage, blanched and cooked
in stock.
• — Romaine (Roman). — A white thick soup with small
rice quenelles.
— Romio. — A rich Parmentier puree (potato) mixed with
half its volume of onion puree (Soubise), finished with
a liaison of cream and egg-yolks ; garniture ; chervil
leaves, poached white of egg, and dice of ham.
— Rouennaise. — Puree of duck with lentil puree and
cream (croutons).
— Russe (Russian). — Lobster bisque, blended with tomato
puree, with small lobster quenelles as garnish.
— Sagou au Lait. — Sago soup with milk (white).
— Sant6 (Health).— Sorrel soup, with cabbage, lettuce,
and herbs. ,
— Savoyarde. — Celery and potato purees, blended with
cream, and cheese-coated crofltons as garnish.
— Semoule. — Semolina soup with cream (white).
— Sivigni, — Light chicken pur^e with cream, and royal
made with egg and chicken cream as garnish.
— S6vlgn6 (Royale). — A light chicken cream, with aspar-
agus points, royal custard, dice of chicken fillets, and
truffles as garnish.
— Souveraine. — Chicken cream soup, enriched with
pistachio pounded kernels and butter liaison.
— St. Cloud. — Puree of French beans and broad beans,
with finely chopped lettuce.
— St. Germain. — Pea puree enriched with cream (crofi tons).
— St. Hubert. — Puree of game (hare or other game),
with small game quenelles or dice cut fillets of
game.
— St. Martha. — A blend of green pea, leek, and lettuce
purees, with cream liaison.
— St. Martin. — Potato puree with sorrel and watercress
purees added, cream liaison (croutons).
— SuUane.^White chicken puree with pistachios and
truffles as garniture.
— Suzette. — Puree of cucumber and peas, blended,
garnished with poached yolks of eggs.
90 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY.
Potage Sylvestra. — Chicken consomme, blended with
velout6 cream and egg-yolks, garnished with
asparagus points and small chicken quenelles
stuffed v/ith spinach.
— Tapioca au Lait. — Tapioca soup with milk.
— Terapene (River Turtle Soup). — A kind of thick turtle
soup made with terrapin turtle.
— Tomates (aux). — Thick tomato soup.
— Tomate Maigre (red). — Tomato soup made from vege-
table or fish stock.
— Tomate k la St. Louis. — Tomato puree thickened with
tapioca, garnished with small chicken quenelles.
— Toplnambours. — Palestine or artichoke soup (white).
— Tortus lifie. — Thick real turtle soup (brown).
— Tortue Fausse. — Mock turtle soup (brown).
— Trazondre. — Salsify puree, enriched with cream (crou-
tons).
— Trufles (aux). — A light puree of fresh truffles, made with
veal stock, egg, and cream liaison, and consomme.
— • Tschl de Soldat (A Russian Soup). — A rich beef broth,
slightly thickened with brown roux, and flavoured
with sour cream ; served with small fried choux paste
balls and shredded ham.
— Turqne (Turkish). — Tomato' puree with rice.
— Tyrolienne (Tyrolian Soup). — Barley cream soup with
onions and carrots.
— Tzarina. — Pur6e of grouse and celery cream, with
celery strips as garnish.
— Val§ry. — Puree of partridge with small quenelles.")
— Veau (Veal Soup, white). — A thick soup made of veal.
— Valour (au) (Velvet). — Chicken cream soup thickened
with rice and tapioca.
— Veloutd au Riz. — Rice soup made with rich veal or
chicken stock, enriched with cream.
— V6nitienne. — Bechamel cream soup with spinach
puree (croutons).
— Vermicelle au Lait. — Vermicelli soup with milk (white).
— Vl«hy. — Pur6e of red carrots with cream liaison.
— Victor Hugo. — Purfee of Jerusalem artichokes with
tapioca and cream liaison.
— Victoria. — A puree of potatoes, with sprigs of cauli-
flowers as garnish.
— Vin de Bourgogne (au). — A brown beef soup, flavoured
with Burgundy wine.
— Virginia. — Puree of broad beans with cream liaison
(croutons).
i - THE FISH COURSE. pi
fot^ge Voisln. — Chicken and veal puree with cream
/' liaison, and spring vegetables as garnish.
— Waldstein. — A rich puree of pheasant, mixed with an
equal quantity of consomme, flavoured with white
Burgundy, seasoned with paprika, etc., garnished
with chopped truffles and Piquoli kernels.
— Wellington. — Chicken cream soup, blended with celery
puree, and rice as garnish.
— Windsor (brown). — A thick soup made with calf's feet,
mutton or beef, and rice.
— Xavler. — Cream of rice soup, blended with chicken
puree, garnished with royal custard and chicken
fillets cut in dice.
Soupe i la Blere. — French beer soup, (brown).
— aux Chrises. — Cherry soup, made with sour cooking
cherries, and a liaison of potato flour flavoured with
cinnamon. JBread crovttes as garnish.
— au Lait. — Milk soup (Lenten soup).
— d, rOlgnon. — French onion soup (brown).
PART IV.
THE FISH COURSE.
LES POISSONS.
Fish is served in two ways, viz., plainly cooked and
dressed as an entree. Many people prefer fish cooked
in the simplest way, accompanied by a good sauce ; and
the English epicure finds far greater enjoyment in fish
cooked in the simplest manner than the French epicure
in the elaborately cooked and dressed fish entree. Fish
is cooked in various ways — boiled, steamed, baked, fried,
stewed, and grilled. Almost every kind of fish gains in
importance' if served with a well-made sauce.
When two fish are served at a dinner, the boiled or
whole — i.e., solid — fish should be served before the fried,
stewed or braised.
Plain boiled potatoes or so-called fish potatoes, which
are of marble shapes, sprinkled with chopped parsley,
should be handed round with all solid fish cooked au
naturel, whilst boiled or grilled salmon should in all
cases be accompanied by a dish of sliced cucumber,
plainly dressed.
92 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY.
PLATS DE POISSON-FISH DISHES.
Aigrefin—Uaddoch.
Algrefin dtouSi. — Fresh haddock steamed in the oven.
— grilH. — Grilled or broiled fresh haddock.
— ^ la Maltre d 'Hotel. — Boiled or steamed haddock with
parsley sauce, or grilled with parsley butter.
Filets d'Algrefins Irits, Sauce Tartare. — Fried fillets of
fresh haddock, tartare sauce.
Able sautS h la Dlable. — Devilled bleak tossed in butter.
Alose au gratin. — Baked shad, gratin style.
Anguille — Eel,
Anguille h, I'Anglaise. — Stewed eel, English style.
— en Aspic (Eel in Savoury Jelly). — Cooked and boned
eel and slices of hard-boiled egg set in aspic jelly.
— & la Beaucaire. — Boned eels stuffed with whiting farce,
mixed with chopped mushrooms, dressed in spiral
form in baking dish or casserole, and braised with
white sauce, small onions, and mushrooms.
— 4 la broche. — Grilled eel with parsley butter.
— en caisses. — Braised eel in paper cases.
— ik la Durand. — Boned eels, stuffed with whiting farce,
curled up and trussed, braised with butter and vege-
table mirepoix.
— & I'EspagnoIe.— Eel fried in oil, then stewed in fish
stock and wine, flavoured with garlic, saffron, and
peppercorns ; garnished with blanched coarsely
shredded baked almonds.
— i la Florimond. — Marinaded eels, wrapped in oiled
paper and baked in oven, served with parsley butter,
and echalote sauce.
— glacie. — Rolled fillets of eel, broiled, and glazed with
a rich brown sauce and meat glaze.
— i ritalienne (Eel Stewed, Italian style). — Stewed eel
with small rice timbales.
— 4 la Maconnalse. — Eel stewed in Burgundy wine sauce,
with crayfish tails and oysters.
— en Matelote. — Brown eel stew, flavoured with claret,
button onions, and mushrooms.
— 4 la M6nagire. — Split eel, grilled, spread over with
maitre d'hotel butter and mustard.
— A la Meunidre. — Boned eel, cut in portion pieces, dipped
in flour aud fried in butter, : .:rved \vith Noisette
butter, lemon juice, aud chopped parsley.
THE FISH COURSE. 93
^ Aihguille ii rOrly. — Fillets of eel, egged and crumbed or
' dipped in frying batter, and fried in deep fat, served
with tomato sauce.
— 4 la Pompadour. — Boiled eel, coated with white sauce,
egged and crumbed, and fried ; egged sauce or
choron sauce, and small potato balls.
— & la Poulette. — Fricasseed eel in parsley sauce.
— d la Proven^ale. — Fried eel, onion sauce.
— & la Romaine. — Small piece of eel stewed with butter
sauce, green peas, and finely cut lettuces, served in
casserole.
— !l la Rouennaise. — Boned eel, cut in portions, stewed
in matelotte sauce, garnished with oysters, soft roes,
champignons, and fried smelts.
— ^ la Taitare (Eel, Tartare style). — Parboiled eel,
cut in pieces, drained, dipped in batter and fried,
dished up in circles, with tartare sauce in centre.
— ^ la Vinitienne. — Rolled eel fillets, cooked, (j.e.,p9ached)
in court-bouillon and glazed in oven, garnished with
dice-cut champignons, and fish roe ; sauce Venitienne.
Blanquette d'AnguUle. — Stewed eel in white sauce.
Friture d'Anguille. — Skinned and boned pieces of eel,
seasoned, egged, crumbed, and fried, served with
piquant sauce.
Barbue — Srill,
Barbue brals^e k I'Amlral. — ^Brill braised with chablis and
white stock, garnished with fried oysters and mussels,
pommes Parisienne, and thin slices of truffle and
lemon ; served with cardinal sauce.
— bouilUe. — Boiled brill.
— au gratln.— Baked brill, gratin style.
BarbiUon. — Young brill.
Filets de Barbue frite.— Fried fillets of brill.
— 4 la Boulonnaise. — Fillets of brill, poached in oven, with
white wine sauce, mixed with chopped parsley,
garnished with oysters, mussels, and soft roes.
— i la Donter. — Fillets of brill, poached in oven, drained
on rice foundation, and sauced over with shrimp
sauce ; breaded and browned in oven.
— ^ la Grand Due. — Fillets of brill, dipped in velout6
sauce, eggs and breadcrumbs, served with veloute
sauce, to which is added horseradish, tomato pulp,
and cream ; garnished with mussels and oysters.
— i la Madeleine. — Fillets of brill covered on one side
with whiting forcemeat mixed with herbs, placed in
paupiette rings and saut6ed, and. white stock and
mirepoix ; then dipped in egg and breadcrumbs and
fried ; served with marseillaise sauce.
94 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY.
Fiiefs de Barbiie k la Russe.— Fillets of brill poached
richly flavoured fish essence (reduced fish stock)
sauced over with a mushroom sauce, and glazed
under the salamander.
BlanchaiUes^ Whitebait,
BlanchalUes .^ la DIable.— Whitebait devilled, seasoned
with salt and cayenne.
— a I'Indienne — Fried whitebait, seasoned with salt and
curry powder.
— a la Madras.— Same as "Indienne."
— au natnrel.— Whitebait fried crisp in deep fat.
Bouille-a-Baisse (French Fish Stew).— Fish stew made
from various kinds of fish and lobster, flavoured with
garhc, savoury herbs, and white wine,
Court-Bouillon (au).— A French savoury fish stew pre-
pared from various kinds of fish, tomatoes, etc.
Jirochet — Pi/ce.
Brochet 4 TAnclenne.— Stewed pike, served with white
sauce, garnished with truffles, gherkins, mushrooms
and capers.
— 4 la Castelalne (Pike, Castelaine style).— Braised pike
stufied with sliced truffles, tongue, and bacon-
served with white sauce, and garnished with lobster
croquettes, truffles, and oysters. -
— a la Cavour (Pike, Cavour style).-BroUed pike, gar-
nished with nouiUes, grated horseradish, and carrSts •
served with rich velout6 sauce.
— frit.— Fried pike garnished with lemon and parsley.
— farcl ef grating,- Stuffed pike, baked, gratin style
— grills.— Grilled or broiled pike.
— 4 la RSmoulade (Pike. Remoulade style).— Grilled pike
erved with a remoulade sauce ^
^""'fxrH"^®"*"!"". '?'•>"! ^ '* Colbert-Fillets of pike
larded, cooked m the oven, with brown wine sauce
— piqu6 i la Lyonnaise.— Fillets of pike stewed in white
ZTJ^'"''^- f°^ P^jshed with small marble-shaped
potatoes cooked m fish stock. ^
''^^^fr!?!! «?, Bfo«het.~Round or oval-shaped fillets
Lnd but'J^r '^h"®'"',^"^ P°^'=^^'l '" couS-bouiUon
fish s^uce " ^ • ^""^ ^"^^^ ^"'^ ^™^»
—a la R6gence.--Small oval fillets spread with butter an,]
shces of truffles, wrapped in oUed paper and cooked
m oven with white wine and butter fgarartu re
Regence and sauce. giin'ture
THE FISH COURSE. 95
Cabillaud — Cod,
Cabillaud i, I'Andalouse. — Slices of cod cooked in white
wine sauce and tomato purfee ; garnished with
noisetti potatoes.
— a I'Anglaise. — Boiled cod with melted butter sauce.
— bouilli. — Boiled cod.
— bouilli aux Capres. — Boiled cod with caper sauce.
— • en coquilles. — Codfish baked and served in shells.
— aux Crevettes. — Boiled cod and shrimp sauce.
— ^ la Di^ppoise. — Slices of cod dipped in milk and flour,
fried, drained, and served with white matelotte sauce.
— 4 la Flamande. — Cod slices, baked in white sauce,
flavoured with white Bordeaux wine and chopped
herbs.
— ■ frit, sauce Anchols. — Fried cod and anchovy sauce.
— au gratln. — Baked cod, gratin style.
— grill6 k la Colbert (Grilled Cod, Colbert style).— Slices
of cod dipped in dissolved butter and flour, grilled,
and served with maStre d'hotel butter.
— sauce aux Huitres. — Boiled cod, oyster sauce.
— • d rindlenne. — Fried or grilled cod with curry sauce.
— -4 la Maitaise. — Cod stewed in veloute sauce, white
wine, stock, shallots, and bouquet garni ; sauce
flavoured with anchovy paste, chopped parsley, and
capers.
— i la Nantaise. — Slices of cod, spread over with lobster
pur6e or farced, baked, and served with fish supreme
sauce.
— • i! la Portugaise (Cod, Portuguese style). — Slices of cod
fried ; served with a sauce composed of tomato sauce,
essence of anchovy and mussels.
— recr^pl, bouilH.^Crimped cod, boiled.
— d . la Reine. — Poached cod slices with fish supreme
sauce and fish quenelles.
Darne de Cabillaud k la Sefton. — Boiled cod coated with
cream chaudfroid sauce, coloured with spinach
pur6e. Garnish : salad, chopped cucumber, and
diamond shapes of aspic.
Kedgeree de Cabillaud. — Finely flaked cooked cod, re-heated
with butter, jrice, and hard-boiled egg (shredded),
moistened with bfechamel sauce ; served hot as
breakfast dish.
Mousseline de Cabillaud. — Steamed codflsh souffle served
with cardinal sauce.
96 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY.
, t
Carpe—Carp.
Carpe t I'Alsacienne. — Boned carp stuffed with white fish
farce, and cooked in wine-flavoured fish stock.
Served with choucrouts and potato cubes (boiled).
Light white butter sauce.
— ^ 4 la Juive. — Filleted carp, fried in oil, served on fish
farce basis, with chopped parsley and suitable sauce.
— il la Royale. — Skinned and boned carp, poached in fish
stock with Chablis and aromatic herbs, dressed crown
shape, with slices of truffles. Garnished in centre
with mushroom heads and fish roe. Sauced over
with Sauce Normande.
— au bleu. — Boiled carp.
— tarcle. — Stuffed carp, baked.
— frlte. — Fried carp.
— gratin^e. — Baked carp, gratin style.
Carrelet — Flounder.
Carrelet frit, Sauce Persil. — Fried flounder, parsley sauce.
Souchet de Carrelet (Souchet of Flounder). — Boiled
flounder with finely-cut strips of carrots and turnips,
and chopped parsley.
Belgnets de Clames.— Clam fritters.
Coquilles de Crevettes.— Coquilles of shrimps.
— aux Huitres. — Coquilles of oyster.
— de Moules. — Scalloped mussels.
— de Poissons (Coquilles of Fish). — Stewed fish served in
shells. Scalloped fish.
— aux Queues d'Ecrevlsses. — Coquilles of crayfish tails.
Crabe larcle, — Dressed and stuffed crab.
Ecrevisses — Crayfish.
(May also be prepared as Lobster.)
Ecrevisses i la Bordelaise. — Crayfish tails or prawns
cooked in rich mirepoix, served with fish veloute
sauce and lobster butter. With chopped parsley — in
casserole.
— 4 la Cardinal. — Crayfish tails dressed with Normande
sauce and truffle slices in buttered gratin dish, with
potato border, and browned in oven.
— 4 la Magenta — Prepared the same as "Bordelaise."
with addition of sliced tomatoes, sa\'oury herbs, and
white wine sauce, served in casserole.
Belgnets d'Ecrevisses.— Crayfish fritters.
Belgnets d'Esoargots. — Snail fritters.
Escargots 4 I'Anglalse. — Stewed snails.
THE FISH COURSE. 97
Eperlans — Smelts.
Eperlans k I'Anglalse. — Split smelts, boned, egged, and
crumbed, and fried in butter ; served with lemon.
— & la Baron Brisse.— Split and boned smelts, grilled,
spread with parsley butter, garnished with Noisette
potatoes.
— en Broehettes. — Fried smelts on skewers.
— & la Cilistlne. — Boned smelts stuffed with forcemeat,
placed on pancake and forcemeat sandwiches cut in
triangles or other shapes, sauteed ; garnished with
prawns, and served with remoulade sauce.
— au Citron. — Smelts dipped in panurette, and fried ;
garnished with fried parsley and lemon. Served
with plate of brown bread and butter.
— ^ la Diable. — Fried smelts devilled.
— frits. — Fried smelts.
— gratlnSs. — Baked smelts.
— ^ la Julve. — Boned smelts, dipped in frying batter and
fried ; served with tartare sauce.
— farcis d, la Pouraine. — Smelts stuffed with forcemeat,
mushrooms, and parsley, covered with melted butter,
and baked ; dished up, covered with bechamel sauce,
and browned under salamander.
Souffle d 'Eperlans. — SoufHfe consisting of fillets of smelts,
whiting, bechamel sauce, cream, and white of egg.
Timbale d'Eperlans k la St. Mandd. — Mould lined with
smelt fillets and filled with smelt-flavoured fish
mousse. Steamed aad served with caviare sauce.
Esturgeon — Sturgeon.
Esturgeon & I'Anchois. — Boiled sturgeon with anchovy
sauce. I
— brals6. — Braised sturgeon.
— k la Cardinal (Sturgeon, Cardinal style). — Boiled
sturgeon, garnished with quenelles of whiting and
crajrfish, and served with cardinal sauce.
Darne d 'Esturgeon k la Milanaise (Sturgeon Steak,
Milanese style). — Middle piece or steak of sturgeon
stewed ; garnished with eel-pout livers and crayfish
tails.
PapiUotes d'Estnrgeon. — Stewed sturgeon in paper cases.
Belgnets de Grenouilles. — Frogs' legs fritters.
Goujon (Gudgeons). — A kind of small fish like whitebait,
dipped in flour, and fried in deep fat.
Grenouilles frites. — Fried frogs.
G
98 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY.
Grondins farci 6toufl6. — Baked gurnet, stuffed ; dished on
fried bread croutons ; served with sauce matelot,
mixed with anchovy essence and fish liquor.
— i la Talleyrand. — Baked fillets of gurnet, served with
a sauce consisting of butter, flour, fish liquor, fish
stock, cream, and yolks of two eggs beaten up with
lemon juice.
Jn^tan — Halibut ,
(May also be prepared as Flounder, Brill or Turbot.)
Fl§tan au gratin. — Baked halibut.
— griI16e, sauce crevettes. — Grilled halibut, shrimp sauce.
Hareng — Herring.
Hareng frals grille. — Grilled fresh herring.
— ;au beurre. — Broiled herring in butter.
— i la Diable. — Grilled herrings, coated with mustard and
fried breadcrumbs, and served with ravigote sauce.
— Farcis. — Boned herrings, stuffed with herb farce,
wrapped in oiled paper and baked in oven. Served
with white wine sauce.
— a la Maitre d'Hotel. — Grilled herring with parsley
butter.
— 4 la Moutarde. — Grilled herring with mustard sauce.
— ^ la Nantaise. — Herrings with soft roes, rolled in flour
and crumbed, then fried in butter, served with
mayonnaise flavoured with cooked roes and mustard.
— & la Portidre. — Herrings with incisions filled with
mustard and parsley, then fried in butter. Served
with brown butter, flavoured with vinegar.
Homard — Lobster.
Homard & rAm6ricaine (Lobster, American style). —
Lobster stewed in the shell with tomato sauce, red
wine, and savoury herb seasoning.
— en Aspie. — Lobster and hard-boUed egg set in moulds
with savoury or aspic jelly.
— i la Bechamel (Baked Lobster, Bechamel style). —
Shells of lobster filled with minced lobster meat,
bechamel sauce, and seasoning, and baked.
— & la Bordelaise. — Lobster steiyed in tomato sauce,
blended with white wine and chopped herbs ; served
in timbales.
— 4 la Cardinal. — Minced lobster, mixed with Nantua
sauce, and filled in shells, breaded, and browned in
oven. .
— sautfi i, la Dumas. — Lobster meat tossed in butter and
finished in brown sauce, flavoured with white wine,
paprika, and lemon juice.
THE FISH COURSE. 99
itdfomard larcl. — Stuffed lobster baked.
— k la Gloucester (Lobster, Gloucester style). — Stewed
lobster, with a sauce composed of pulverised lobster
shell, butter, egg yolks, and meat extract.
— au gratin. — Baked lobster, gratin style.
— it la Hongrolse (Hungarian). — Scalloped lobster in
shells, moistened with white sauce, paprika seasoning,
and cream, browned in oven.
— h rindienne. — Curried lobster in border of rice.
— 4 la Newbury. — Lobster, sliced, poached in Madeira,
with sherry, chopped parsley, etc., and finished in
cream and egg-yoUc liaison.
— i la Suidolse (Lobster, Swedish fashion). — Border of
lobster meat and forcemeat, poached in a fancy
border mould, and sauced over with anchovy
sauce.
— d la Tourville. — Slices of lobster meat tossed in butter,
and cooked with " risotto," dressed in shells and
sauced with fish veloute.
— ^ la Turque (Turkish). — Sliced lobster meat, cooked in
mirepoix, flavoured with brandy and saffron ; dish
garnished with small curried rice timbales.
— 4 la Vanderbilt. — Minced lobster meat with chopped
truffles and mushrooms, blended with Nantua sauce,"
filled into shells, and browned in oven.
Bordure de Hoiuard ik I'lndlenne. — Border of savoury
lobster mixture, centre filled with rice, decorated
with hard-boiled egg and truffle.
Buissons de Homard (Bush of Lobsters). — Lobster dressed
in a pyramidal form.
Coquilles de Homard t, la Gauloise. — Poached coquiUe
shapes of lobster forcemeat, with lobster scallop in
centre of each, served with cardinal sauce.
— de Homard (Scalloped Lobster). — Stewed lobster
served in shells.
CStelettes de Homard (Lobster Cutlets). — Mixture of
lobster, shallots. Bechamel sauce, mushrooms, and
egg made into cutlet shapes, egged, crumbed, fried,
and served with tomato or other sauce.
— de Homard :l 1' Aspic. — Slices of lobster meat set in
aspic, cutlet shapes.
— 4 la Tomate. — Lobster cutlets with tomato sauce.
Mayonnaise de Homard. — Pieces of lobster and salad
masked with mayonnaise sauce, decorated with
pieces of claws, hard-boiled egg, strips of fillet of
anchovy, capers, beetroot, coral, stoned olives, and
gherkins.
Mousse de Homard {rapp£e. — Iced lobster souffle, top
decorated with lobster coral and paprika.
100 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY.
Petites Dormes de Homard i la Crime. — Lobster an,
tomato aspic set in square fluted moulds, dressed pn
squares of pastry. ■
Souffli de Homard, sauce aurora. — Steamed soufiHe, con--
sisting of lobster, eggs, and bechamel sauce, served
with aurora sauce.
Huitres— Oysters.
(See also chapter on Oyster Savouries.)
Huttres ^ I'Americalne. — Oysters, poached in fish liquor,
served in own shells or coquilles, sauced over with
tomato sauce, flavoured with lobster puree.
— en coquilles. — Scalloped oysters.
— !l la Duxelles. — Oyster stew baked in shells.
— i la Du Barry. — Small baked potatoes stuffed with
oysters ; supreme sauce.
— & la Favorite. — Scalloped oysters, served in shells, with
dice of truffle on each, sauced with bechamel and
grated parmesan cheese, then browned in oven.
— frites. — Fried oysters.
— grill^es. — Grilled or broiled oysters.
— i la Poulette. — Fricasseed oysters, rich white sauce,
and chopped parsley.
— i la Salamandre. — Oysters on shells with supreme
sauce and cayenne ; sprinkled with breadcrumbs,
grated parmesan, and butter ; browned under
salamander.
Belgnets d'Huttres. — Oyster fritters.
Cbaudfroid d 'huitres k la Montpeller Oysters set in aspic
in border of rice, masked with white or red chaud-
froid sauce, centre filled with seasoned green salad.
Cromeskies aux huitres. — Small cork shapes or rolls,
composed of minced oysters, oyster liquor, cream,
lemon juice, egg-yolks, etc., then wrapped in bacon,
dipped in batter, and fried in deep fat ; garnished
with fried parsley.
Fricassee d 'huitres. — Oysters stewed in white sauce,
also sliced mushrooms, if liked.
Quenelles aux huitres. — Small chicken or veal quenelles,
with one or two oysters in centre of each, poached
in fish stock, served coated with white sauce.
— frltes aux huitres.— Fried oyster quenelles, served with
piquant or white wine sauce.
Petlts Pat6s aux huitres.— Puff pastry patties filled with
a delicately-prepared oyster stew or ragout.
Lamprole saut^e & la Fran; alse. — Stewed lamprey, French
style.
— en Iricass6e. — Fricasseed lamprey.
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THE FISH COURSE. 105
Aougets aux fines herbes. — Stewed red mullets with fine
herb sauce.
— au gratin. — Baked red mullets, gratin style.
— grilles, sauee ravigote. — Grilled mullets and ravigote
sauce.
— ^ ritalienne. — Broiled red mullets, served with Italian
sauce.
— ^ la Janin. — Red mullets, boned and stuffed, cooked
in oven, same as in papilottes ; served with Genfivoise
sauce.
— ^ la Juive. — Fillets of red mullets soaked in oil mari-
nade, and fried garnished with parsley ; served with
tartare or tomato sauce.
— ^ la Marseillaise. — Red mullet broiled in butter, then
finished in tomato and onion stew ; suitably flavoured
and served like " Bouillabaise."
— & la Nantalse. — Grilled red mullet, served with demi-
glace sauce, flavoured with shallots, wine, and puree
of fish roes ; garnished with slices of lemon.
— ^ la Ni(jolse. — Grilled red mullet, garnished with
tomatoes tossed in butter, anchovy fillets, olives,
and capers.
— en papillotes (Red Mullets in Paper Cases). — Fish
wrapped separately in oiled paper, with the ends
twisted, and thus baked or broiled, dished up, and
served with brown fine herb sauce.
— & la Polonaise. — Baked mullets with rich butter and
cream sauce, breaded, and browned.
— i la Portugaise. — Baked mullet, with chopped savoury
herbs, sliced tomatoes, and claret sauce.
— i la ProvenQale. — Baked iilullets with chopped parsley
and onion ; served with tomato sauce (garlic-flavoured)
and cucumber puree.
— d la Trouville. — Boned mullet, poached in white wine
and fish stock, then dished and sauced with Colbert
sauce, and baked.
— & la V6nltienne. — Baked red mullets with brown sauce ;
garnished with Spanish olives, stuffed with fish
forcemeat and mushroom heads.
— ^ la Villeroi. — Marinaded red mullet, dipped in Villeroi
sauce, egged and crumbed, and fried in deep fat.
Saint Pi'erre — John Dory.
Cooked and served like Brill, Flounder or Plaice.
Saumon — Salmon.
Saumon & I'Amiral. — Boiled salmon, garnished with
lobster or cra)^sh and fried oysters, and served with
Gen§voise sauce.
io6 PRACTICAL GASTRONOME.
Saumon & la Balmoral. — Thick slices of salmon, poached
in fish stock, garnished with fish quenelles, crayfish,
truffles, and small potato balls ; served with cham-
bord sauce.
— a la champ^ry. — Thick slices of salmon, baked in butter
and white wine, served with brown caper sauce and
olive-shaped potatoes.
— i la Danoise (Danish). — Boiled salmon, served with
hoUandaise sauce, blended with anchovy essence.
— k la Di^ppoise. — Boiled or baked slices of salmon with
mussel sauce, garnished with potato balls.
— ^ la Godard. — Braised salmon with a. collection of
cooked vegetable mac^doine dressed round the dish.
— 4 la HoUandaise. — Boiled salmon with Dutch sauce,
garnished with olive-shaped boiled potatoes.
— & la Marianne. — Baked slices of salmon, dressed on
spinach puree or with spinach timbales, mariniere
sauce, with addition of mussels.
— d la Matelote. — Sauteed slices of salmon with
espagnole sauce, poached fish quenelles, slices of
mushrooms, and truffles ; garnished with braised
button onions, truffles, etc.
— en tranches t la Meurlce.^ — Slices of salmon braised and
served with a rich brown sauce, flavoured with
savoury herbs.
— ^ la Monte-Carlo. — Centre piece of salmon, boiled,
sauced with Nantua sauce, and garnished with
asparagus tips, French beans, and carrots ; also
small carrolette of potato or rice.
— & la Montmorency. — Head piece or middle cut of
salmon baked, dished up, upper skin removed ;
sauced over with matelote sauce ; garnished with
. stoned and stuffed Spanish olives.
— ii la Michat Faeha. — Boiled salmon with date sauce.
— en papillotes. — Heart-shaped slices of salmon wrapped
in grease-proof paper, and thus boiled or baked ;
served with a rich brown herb sauce.
— & la Parislenne. — Slices of salmon, cut rather thick,
braised in mirepoix and claret ; dished up and gar-
nished with groups of champignons, little fish
croquettes, crayfish tails, and poached oysters ; sauce
genoise is served with it.
— i la PiSmontalse. — Fried fillets of salmon ; garnished
with small timbales of savoury rice ; tomato
sauce.
— ik la Richelieu. — Centre piece of salmon, boiled or
baked, coated with lobster mousse sauce, and gar-
nished with fried soft roes, oysters, and crayfish or
prawns.
THE FISH COURSE. toy
Saumon t ia Sichemont. — Grilled pickled salmon with
tomato sauce.
— i la Rothschild. — Centre piece of salmon, farced with
truflle stufifing, and baked ; garnished with champig-
nons, oysters, and truffles ; served with Nantua sauce.
— a la P6rigueux. — Broiled salmon or salmon trout
stuffed with truffles and served with truffle sauce.
— ^ la Valoiss. — Grilled salmon steak, with lobster
butter, served with valois sauce, and garnished with
small rounds of baked potatoes and fried oysters.
— i la Victoria. — Broiled salmon with stewed oysters,
crayfish quenelles, Madeira sauce.
— bouilli, sauce HoUandaise. — Boiled salmon with Hol-
iandaise or Dutch sauce.
— grills au beurre d'anchois. — Grilled salmon with
anchovy butter.
— grille au persU. — Grilled salmon with parsley butter.
— griU6 aux fines herbes. — Grilled salmon with fine herb
butter.
Cdtelettes de Saumon i, la Danolse. — Salmon cutlets spread
on each side with anchovy paste and fried ; served
with Danish sauce.
— 4 la Richelieu. — Salmon cutlets, poached in marinade,
masked with cold fish farce (flavoured with tomatoes
and anchovy), and with tomato aspic, dressed crown
shape with cucumber and pimiento salad in centre.
Darloles de Saumon k la Moscovlenne (cold). — Darioles,
shapes of salmon, ornamented with truffles, oysters,
chopped aspic, and cucumber.
Darne de Saumon> i la Chambord. — Boiled middle cut of
salmon, skinned, dished up, garnished with fish
quenelles, heads of mushrooms, cooked oysters,
slices of truffles and crayfish tails, sauced with a rich
brown fish sauce.
— k rArcliiduc— Boiled middle cut of salmon, skinned,
dished up, sauced over with a rich brown fish sauce,
and garnished with fried oysters and small puff-
pastry lobster patties.
— aux fines herbes. — Grilled salmon steak with parsley
butter.
— 4 la National. — Broiled piece of salmon and white
sauce ; garnished with groups of stewed potato and
cucumber balls.
— 4 la Ravigote (cold). — Boiled centre piece of salmon,
masked and decorated with cold ravigote sauce and
fresh butter, centre of salmon filled with salad or
vegetable macedoine, and sides garnished with hard-
boiled egg, green peas, and chopped aspic ; served
with tartare sauce.
io8 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY
Darne de Saumon A, la Vert-Pr6 (cold). — Cold salmon,V;oated
with green chaudfroid sauce, garnished with di^ssed
salad, sliced cucumber, and diamond shapes of asp^c.
Escalopes de Saumon & I'lndlenne. — Fried salmon cutlets>-
served with curry sauce, mixed with chopped picca-
lilli, also plain rice as accompaniment.
— i la Nantaise. — CoUops of salmon, seasoned and
broiled in butter ; dished up alternately with slices
of lobster ; dressed with stewed oysters and lobster
sauce.
Filets de Saumon 4 la Duehesse. — Braised fillets of salmon
arranged in the centre of a mashed potato border,
masked with rich brown sauce, and garnished with
mushroom heads and slices of tomatoes.
— aux huitres. — Rolled fillets of salmon with stewed
oysters braised and served with a rich brown sauce.
— sautes ^ la P^rlgueux. — Braised fillets of salmon, with
truffle sauce.
— & la Rfigence. — Rolled fillet of salmon, stuffed, and
served with regent sauce.
Grenadins de Saumon & la Vinitlenne. — Fillets of salmon,
larded, seasoned, and braised, dressed in a circle
alternately with heart-shaped bread croiitons, sauced
with a well-buttered parsley sauce blended with
tomato.
Hflre de Saumon aux truffes. — Braised headpiece of
salmon, with truffle sauce..
— jk la Cambac^res. — Braised head-piece of salmon,
garnished with truffles, mushrooms, and stoned
olives, sauced with a rich brown fish sauce seasoned
with cayenne and lemon juice.
— d la Mod^rne. — Boiled and baked head-piece of salmon,
sauced over with brown fish sauce ; garnished with
small groups of cork-shaped pieces of fish sausage,
sliced truffles, mushroom heads, and stoned and
blanched olives ; top of fish garnished with slices of
lemon, truffles, and parsley.
Mousseline de Saumon 4 la Cardinal. — Timbale or dariole
of light salmon forcemeat (souffle), served with
cardinal sauce.
Pat6 de Saumon k I'Homard. — Raised salmon pie with
layers of lobster meat.
Pauplettos de Saumon i. la Relne. — Quenelles of fish, rolled
in salmon fillets, and poached in chablis and fish
stock ; dressed in fi,sh farce border, and garnished
with braised olive shapes of cucumber ; hot ravigote
sauce.
Souffles de Saumon d I'lndlenne.— Cold souffle of curried
salmon, decorated with anchovy butter or anchovy
cream.
Hit. jri^iH cuuiiim. 109
Queue de Saumon aux huttres.— Braised tail-piece of
salmon with stewed oysters.
Tranchettes de Saumon en Belle Vue (cold). — Small
sandwich-shaped moulds of salmon set in aspic and
mayonnaise cream.
Soles — Soles.
Sole frlte k I'Anglaise. — Fried sole with anchovy sauce or
melted butter.
Soles d la Bedford. — Grilled soles garnished with croustades
half filled with mushroom and truffle, and other half
with spinach; sauce, mornay.
— & la Bfircy. — Skinned soles, cooked in oven, with
butter, shallots, white wine, mushroom liquor, and
chopped parsley ; coated with bercy sauce.
— d la Bignon. — Steamed sole, with white wine sauce,
blended witR* tomato puree a la Portugaise.
— d la Banne Femme. — Poached on mirepoix of fresh
mushrooms, shallots, parsley, white wine, and fish
stock ; fish veloute sauce.
— d la Bosanlaque. — Steamed sole, seasoned with paprika
and white wine ; garnished with julienne of carrots,
celery, and mushrooms cooked in fish stock ; sauce,
au vin blanc.
— bouillie. — Boiled sole.
— d la Gastillene. — Baked sole, with normande sauce,
garnished with champignons, lobster dice, and glazed
potato balls.
— ik la Colbert.— Fried sole with centre bone removed,
stufled with fine herb or parsley butter.
— 4 la Cond6. — Baked sole, with sliced tomato and white
wine sauce.
— d la Daumont. — Soles with centre bone removed, and
filled with whiting farce, cooked in white wine and fish
stock ; sauce, nantua
— d I'EspagnoIe. — Fried soles, garnished with sliced
tomatoes sauteed in oil, and fried onion rings.
— frlte. — Fried sole, garnished with fried parsley and
cut lemon.
— & la Gastronome. — Stuffed fried sole with shrimp sauce.
— au gratin. — Baked sole, with brown sauce and mush-
rooms, breaded and browned in oven.
— gratinfe. — Baked sole, gratin style.
— grill^e k la Maltre d'Hdtel.— Grilled sole with parsley
butter.
— d la Hambourgeoise. — Steamed sole, garnished with
julienne strips of carrot and celery root cooked in
stock, sauced over with sauce vin blanc.
no PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY. "
Soles ik la Normande. — ^Poached soles in white wine, etc.,
garnished with oysters, mussels, and button mush-
rooms, sauced over with normande sauce, served with
buttered and browned slices of French rolls. ,
— au Parmesan. — Soles cooked in mushroom liquor, etc.
sauced over with bechamel, flavoured with parmesan
cheese ; browned under salamander, and served in
same dish. /
7— au vin blanc. — Braised sole with white wine sauce.
Filets de Soles k TAmirlcalne. — Fillets of soles cooked
with white wine in gratin dish ; sauced over with
rich tomato sauce and lobster butter ; breaded aud
browned in oven.
— 4 I'Ambassade. — Filleted sole, cooked in fish stock and
white wine in oven, coated with Momay sauce, with
tomato pur6e added.
— t I'Andalouse. — Rolled fillets of sole, farced with
lobster puree, -poached, and finished with brown
butter ; served with tomato sauce, with addition of
cream or bechamel.
— en Aspic (Cold). — -Folded fillets of sole poached, when
cold dressed in aspic border shape, centre filled with
seasoned salad. *■
— aux aubergines. — Baked fillets of soles dressed with
nut browp buttery garnished with fried olive shapes
of aubergine (egg-plant).
— ^ la Belle H616ne. — Rolled fillets of sole, poached in
white wine and mushroom liquor, dressed on nouille
paste foundation, coated with bechamel sauce,
breaded, and browned in oven.
— Belles de Nutt. — Fillets of soles forced with fish farce
and prawns ; poached" in white wine ; garnished with
mushroom heads, potato cubes, and fomatbes ;
sauce, normande.
— i la BlanehalUe Sole fillets cut into fine strips, to
^resemble whitebait, dipped in milk amd flour, Snd fried
in deep fat.
— !l la Boitel. — Fillets of soles folded and poached in
white wine and mushroom liquor ; dressed on dish
and sauced over with white mushroom sauce ;
baked.
— sk la Bovin. — Poached fillets of soles with rich cream
sauce flavoured with fish essence ; garnished with
potato balls and chopped parsley.
— i la Catalalne. — Poached fillets of soles dressed on
border of Jerusalem artichokes, centre filled with
cdpes tossed in butter ; sauced over with well-
reduced rich b6chamel sauce.
THE FISH COURSE. in
Filets de Soles d la Cancale. — Fillets of soles poached in fish
liquor and oyster liquor ; dressed and garnished with
poached oysters and mushrooms ; sauced over with
maitre d'hdtel sauce
— i la Cardinal. — Curled up or folded fillets of soles,
poached in fish stock, coated with red sauce com-
posed of tomato, lobster sauces, and anchovy essence ;
' garnished with prawns or crayfish.
— & la CarSme. — Braised fillets of spies, coated with rich
white fish sauce, and garnished with lobster slices,
soft roes, and fried oysters."
/ - 4 -la Chasseur Royal. — Steamed fillets of soles dressed
on a white fish border, decorated with tnifHes and
gariiished with oysters, mushrooms, and truffles ;
royal chasseur sauce.
a la Cherbourg. — Rolled fillets of soles braisgji in white
wine, dished'up and garnished with oysters, crayfish,
and mussels; sauced over with cardinal sauce.
en fers 4 Chevai (cold).— Stuffed rolled fillets of^sole
^"^ set in horseshoe-shaped moulds, with mayonnaise or
> aspic cream, decorated with truffles.
— & la Chevaliire. — Rolled fillets of soles stuffed with fish
farce mixed with chopped truffles ; poached in white
wine ; sauced over with crayfish or bisque sauce, with
finely chopped truffles on top.
— & la Czarina.— Baked fillets of soles dressed on potato
puree, scraped horseradish on each fillet ; served
with a rich brown fish sauce, flavoured with tomato
and meat glaze.
— k la Dauphine. — Sole fillets spread over with a mixture
of forcemeat, chopped shallots, parsley, and mush-
rooms, folded and braised ; egged, crumbed, and
fried ; served with lobster sauce.
— & la Diable. — Rolled fillets of soles, crumbed and fried,
served in paper cases, with devilled sauce poured
over.
— a la Diocl6tien. — Fillets of soles spread with fish farce,
folded or rolled, and cooked in butter and Marsala
wine ; garnished with small braised lettuces and small
fish quenelles ; rich espagnole sauce, flavoured with
fish liquor and chopped truffles.
— ik la Dor6e. — Fillets of sole, dipped in flour and cream
or milk, and fried in deep fat ; served with tomato-
flavoureld bearnaise sauce.
— & la Dugl£r6. — Fillets of sole, marinaded in gratin dish
with cfushed tomatoes, onions, and parsley, savoury
herbs, white wine, and lemon juice; seasoned and
. cooked in dish. Pour ofif liquid, mix with flour and
butter liaison, work up with fresh butter, and serve
/ over the fish.
112 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY.
Filets de Soles & la Dumas. — Fillets of soles braised with
butter, sauced over with white wine sauce mixed with
tomato pur6e and chopped savoury herbs.
— k I'Ellzabeth. — Rolled fillets of sole, farced with lobster
pur6e, baked, and placed on small artichoke bottoms,
sauced with bfechamel, coated with cheese, and
browned before serving.
— 4 la Ficampolse. — Poached fillets of sole, garnished
with mussels, and served with shrimp sauce.
— i la Florentine. — Fillets of soles dressed on and
coated with a light spinach puree, enriched with
cream, and flavoured with grated cheese ; baked
in oven.
— jk la Grand Due. — Fillets of soles poached in mushroom
liquor, etc. ; dressed with alternate slices of truffles
and prawn tails, masked with mornay sauce, sprinkled
with cheese, etc., and browned ; garnished with
asparagus points.
— ^ la St. Georges. — Comet shapes of rolled fillets
of sole, poached, and filled with salpicon of
shrimps, lobster, and cream sauce ; placed in halves
of baked potatoes, coated with t«rcy sauce, and
browned in oven.
— i la St. Germain. — Rolled and crumbed fillets of soles
fried in butter, dressed on slices of lemon, with stiff
beamaise sauce forced on top of each ; garnished with
olive-shaped fried potatoes.
— k rindienne. — Fried fillets of soles stuffed with lobster
pur6e ; garnished with shreds of piccalilli, gherkins,
and mushrooms, curry or madeira sauce ; served
with boiled rice.
— Jl la JoInviUe. — Rolled fillets of soles, dressed with
truffles, prawns, cra^vfish, smelts, and small fish
quenelles.
— 4 la Leopold. — Baked fillets of sole, sauced over with
truffle sauce, blended with shrimp puree.
— ^ la Louis XV. — Lobster shells filled with fillets of sole,
covered with lobster puree and white sauce, garnished
with truffle slices.
— Louisa- Anna. — Fillets of soles, folded, and poached in
white wine, dressed on bread croiitons, sauced over
with rich tomato puree, with slice of truffle in
centre.
— k\a, Marcelle. — Fillets of soles spread over with cham-
pignon pur6e, folded and poached ; dressed on dish
in border form, sauced over with pferigueux sauce,
pommes de terre Anna (potatoes) in ceiitie.
THE FISH COURSE. 113
Filets de Soles Jl la Marie-Louise. — Fillets of soles, folded,
poached in white wine and mushroom liquor ; dressed
in centre of oblong dish, with a fancy border of
potato puree ; baked in oven ; sauced over with
supreme sauce, with border , of green mousseline
sauce, julienne strips of truffles sprinkled over the
fillets ; served hot.
— it la Mar^chale. — Stewed fillets of soles in reduced
white sauce, egged, crumbed, and fried in butter ;
bechamel sauce served separate.
— 4 la Mayonnaise. — Fillets of soles set in border mould
with mayonnaise aspic, centre filled with dressed
salad.
— & la Menagire. — Poached in red-wine flavoured stock,
and served with bordelaise sauce.
— tXa, Menni^re. — Sole fillets dipped in flour and cooked
in butter, flavoured with lemon juice, and brown
butter (beurre noisette) and herbs poured over.
— ^ la Messallne. — Fillets of soles poached in champagne,
dressed, and sauced over with tomato sauce, flavoured
with Italian pimientos ; garnished with artichoke
bottoms.
— i la Minute. — Similar to " Sole a la Menniere."
— ^ la Mirabeau. — Poached sole fillets, sauced over with
tarragon-flavoured anchovy sauce, and garnished
with anchovy fillets.
— d la Montgolfier. — Cooked in white wine sauce, and
garnished with slices of lobster and mushroom heads,
truffles, and fleurons.
— k\^ Montpensier, — Fillets of sole rolled round crayfish,
and poached ; dressed on a fish farce border, centre
filled with ragout of lobster, truffles, and mushrooms ;
sauce cardinal, and fleurons as garnish,
— 4 la Montreuil. — Fillets of soles cooked in white wine,
dressed in a circle, with fried potato balls in centre ;
fillets sauced over with veloute sauce, enriched with
fish essence.
— & la Mornay. — Baked fillets of soles, dressed on dish
with rich white sauce and grated cheese ; browned
under salamander.
— ^ la Nantua. — Fillets of soles poached in white wine,
dressed on rice or semolina border, and sauced over
with allemande sauce flavoured with crayfish butter,
centre filled with prawn or crayfish tails, heated up
in allemande sauce.
— ^ la NiQoise. — Dipped in oil and grilled ; garnished
with sliced tomatoes, olives, and capers.
— & la Normande. — Sole fillets poached, with ijormande
sauce, garnished with mussels and oysters, truffles,
and small fried smelts.
114 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY.
Filets de Soles i la Norveglenne (cold).— Rolls or rings of
fillets of sole, poached ; when cold, jellied, and filled
with lobster puree, placed in halves of tomatoes and
suitably garnished ; served with salade norge.
— i 1 'Orlentale.— Dome shape mould, lined with fillets of
sole, decorated with' truflie slices, etc. ; interior filled
with white fish farce, steamed, garnished with fleurons,
prawns, and truffles ; white wine sauce.
— i rOrl^ans. — Poached sole fillets or whole Bole, sauced
over with three sauces — bfechamel, green herb, and
pink shrimp or lobster.
— & I 'Orly.— Fried fillets of soles with tomato sauce and
fried parsley.'
— i la Pagani. — A dish similar to sole au vin blanc,
finished with a rich veloute ; garnished with mussels,
champignons, and grated cheese, browned.
— i la Plimontaise. — Fillets of soles with tomato sauce ;
garnished with polenta croutons and slices of truffles.
— & la Polignac. — Sole fillets, with white wine sauce,
finely shredded champignons, and tarragon leaves.
— ^ la Pompadour.— Sole fillets with white wine sauce,
dice shapes of tomatoes and truffles.
— ^ la Rachel. — Sole fillets with shrimp or prawn sauce,
garnished with truffle slices.
— en Ramequin. — Rings of pastry filled with layer of
white sauce, fillets of soles, soubise pur6e and grated
cheese, etc., baked in sharp oven.
— 4 la R6gence (cold). — Stuffed rolled fillets of sole,
masked in aspic, dished up in fprm of border, each
fillet being decorated with truffles and cream, salad
in centre.
— & la Rouennalse. — Farced fillets of soles, folded, and
poached ; served with momay sauce, and garnished
with mussels.
— 4 la Royale. — Rolled fillets of sofes, stuffed with
minced truffles and champignons and bechamel sauce ;
steamed in oven ; served with hot mousseline or
hoUandaise sauce.
— 4 la Salisbury. — Lobster shells filled with sole and
lobster forcemeat and veloute sauce, with folded
fillets of soles on top of each ; steamed in oven ;
dressed on rice border ; garnished with button
mushrooms.
— & la S^zet. — Fillets of soles stewed in bechamel and
tomato sauce, flavoured with anchovy butter ; gar-
nished with small lobster croquettes, truffles, anchovy
fillets, and mushroom heads.
— en ScuHli. — Fillets of soles set in dish, covered with
mornay sauce and beaten egg-whites, and baked.
THE FISH COURSE. 115
Filets de Soles k la Su^tone. — Fillets of soles, folded, and
poached In the oven with butter and white wine ;
sauced over with normande sauce, flavoured with
pounded pistachio Icernels ; garnished with small
shells of prawns or shrimps, and pistachios.
— & la Sully. — Fillets of soles egged and crumbed, slightly-
fried in butter,' dressed with mushroom head on each
fillet, sauced over with bSarnaise, and around with
anchovy sauce.
— i la TrouvlUe. — Folded fillets, seasoned, broiled in
saute pan with white wine and mushroom liquor,
dressed with mushrooms, oysters, fresh breadcrumbs,
and white sauce ; surface brdwned in oven.
— d la Valfery. — Rolled fillets of sole with white wine
sauce, and champignons as garnish, breaded, and
browned in oven.
— 4 la Vendome. — Poached rolled fillets of sole, dressed
on spaghetti border, and sauced over with nautua
sauce.
— i la V£nitienne. — Folded fillets of soles poached in
white wine, butter, and parsley ; dressed in circle,
centre garnished with mushroom heads, sauced with
hoUandaise sauce.
— a la Victoria. — Folded fillets of soles cooked with
a little white wine, dressed on border of mashed
potatoes, previously browned in oven ; sauced over
with white wine sauce ; garnished with chopped
truffle and tongue and small fleurons of puff paste.
— ^ la Xavier. — Baked fillets of soles tied in knots,
dressed on a border of whiting forcemeat, covered
with hot Xavier sauce ; liquid meat glaze sprinkled
over surface.
— en Zephires (cold). — Cold fillets of sole set in aspic
cream in small zephyr moulds.
Chaudfroid de Filets de Soles t la Capuelne (cold). — Stuffed
and rolled fillets of sole dressed on pink rice. border,
decorated with prawns, truffles, etc. ; seasoned salad
in centre.
Coquilles de Filets de Soles t la Favorite. — Cockle-shell
moulds filled with cooked fillets of sole and lobster
meat, coated with mayonnaise, decorated with
truffle and hard-boiled white of egg.
Escalopes de Soles k la Vernon (Scallops of Soles, Vernon
style). — Braised fillets of soles dressed on rice ;
garnished with stewed oysters and mussels ; rich
white sauce
Hdtelets de Sole d la Villeroi. — Rolled sole fillets stuffed
with forcemeat, placed on silver skewers, seasoned,
crumbed, and baked in the saute pan ; served with
a richly buttered tomato sauce.
n6 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY.
Pauplettes de Sole A r Alexandra.— Fillets of soles spread
with lobster farce and rolled into paupiettes ; poached
in sauterne and fish stock ; garnished with truffles,
anchovy butter, and new potatoes tossed in butter ;
sauce, cardinal.
— & la Bismarck. — Fillets of soles soaked in marinade,
spread with fish farce and chopped truffles, and rolled
up ; poached in white wine ; dressed on a border of
potato puree, sauced over with sauce marguery,
sprinkled with grated parmesan, and browned in
sharp oven.
— ik TEmpereur. — Braised fillets of soles, rolled and
stufEed with tnrbot farce, dressed in cassolettes,
sauced over with bechamel cream sauce, flavoured
with paprika, anchovy essence ; tops sprinkled with
finely chopped truffle and horseradish.
— ^ la St. Michel. — Rolled fillets of soles stuffed with foie-
gras farce and poached, dressed on a border of green
peas, with ragout of prawns in centre ; sauce suprlme.
— & la NiQOlse. — Baked rolled fillets of soles, stuffed with
fish farce, herbs, and anchovy paste ; sauced over
with a rich tomato pur^e containing parmesan
cheese ; garnished with small gherkins, sprinkled with
grated cheese, and browned in oven.
— de Filets de Soles h la Richelieu. — Baked rolled
fillets of soles stuffed with whiting forcemeat, dressed
on croutes spread with fish farce, with mushroom head
on each ; sauced over with cardinal sauce, enriched
with egg-yolk ; a star of truffle placed on centre of
each fiUet.
Soles en souchet (Souchet of Soles). — Boiled soles with
finely cut strips of carrot and turnips and chopped
parsley.
— ^ la Vatel. — Baked soles, boned and stuffed, with
whiting forcemeat, cooked in white wine and mush-
room liquor ; masked over with white wine sauce ;
garnished with truffles, gherkins, cocks' combs, and
mushrooms.
— i la Vllleroise. — Soles cooked in cyder and mushroom
liquor, garnished with cubes of plain boiled potatoes.
Stoudines de Polssons ^ la Russe (cold). — Fillets of soles
and small fillets of salmon poached and dressed
alternately in crown shape, masked with aspic, and
served with iced horseradish sauce.
Turban de Filets de Soles a la Montpeller (cold).— Cold
fillets of soles set in turban or border mould, with
green herb chaudfroid sauce, aspic, etc. ; gainished
with white of egg and truffle ; centre filled with
dressed salad, etc.
' THE FISH COURSE. 117
Timbale de Filets de Soles i, la Savoy. — Poached fillets of
soles, fiuished in rich white wine sauce, mixed with
truffle, macaroni, and crayfish, served in pastry crust
made of pdte A foncer.
Sterlet h la Russe. — Broiled sterlet with braised button
onions, small ball-shaped fried potatoes, and anchovy
sauce.
— au bleu. — Boiled sterlet.
Tanche au bleu. — Boiled tench.
— grlUde au beurre d'Anchois. — Grilled tench with
anchovy butter.
— it la Maitre d'Hdtel.— Broiled tench with parsley butter.
Truite—Trout.
Truite saurnonee — Salmon Trout.
Truite de Hiviire — River Trout.
Truite au bleu. — Trout boiled in water and white wine
flavoured with herbs.
— au beurre d'Anehols. — Broiled trout with anchovy
butter.
— t la Cambacer^s. — Baked trout, garnished with
slices of truffles, heads of mushrooms, stuffed olives
and fleurons ; brown genoise fish sauce.
— au Chablis. — Braised river trout (mirepoix and chablis),
garnished with olive-sha,ped potatoes, plain boiled,
and parsley ; sauce noisette. (See Sauces.)
— 4 la Chambord. — Baked trout with claret sauce, and
chambord garnishing.
— ^ la Chrlstiania. — Boned trout stuffed with fish farce
and hard-boiled egg slices, rolled up, cooked in stock
and milk ; skinned when cold, and masked with aspic
jelly and mayonnaise ; garnished with caviare
canapees, etc.
— & la Divonnalse. — Braised river trout, breaded, sauced
over with sauce genoise ; garnished with braised
button onions and mushroom heads
— tarcle. — Stuffed trout, baked or au gratin, marinifire
sauce.
— frlte. — Fried trout.
— d la Gavarnie. — Small river trout, spread over with
parsley butter (maitre de hotel), then wrapped in
oiled paper and baked in oven. Garnished with
potatoes.
ii8 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY. : .
Trulte d la Helvetia. — Fillets of trout rolled round farce
cubes orquenellei and poached, sauced with bechamel
enriched with lobster butter. Star of trufiSe on top
of each fillet.
— ^ la Hoteliere. — Baked trout in butter, with duxelle
puree, and maitre d'hotel butter, and lemon
garnish.
— & la Maitre d'HStel. — Broiled trout with parsley butter.
— ^ la Malvolsle (cold). — Boiled trout masked with
aspic mayonnaise ; garnished with cucumber balls ;
served with mayonnaise flavoured with cucumber
pur6e.
— & la Mantone. — Boned trout stuffed with truffle farce,
braised on herb and mushroom mirepoix, and served
with sauce Italienne.
— Maritime (cold). — Soused or pickled trout, masked with
half-set savoury jelly, (aspit).
— & la Meuniere. — Braised' trout served with brown
butter (buerre noisette), breadcrumbs, and chopped
parsley.
— & la Moutgolfler. — River trout, boned and stuffed with
whiting farce mixed with chopped truffles, poached in
oven (fumet de poisson), dressed with garnish of
lobster cut in dice, and mushroom heads ; sauce au
vin blanc (white wine saUce).
— & la Hansen (cold). — Cold trout masked with finely
cut vegetable, brunoise, and aspic, dressed on a shape
of aspic ; garnished with small tomato-flavoured tim-
bales and cucumber ; served with frozen horseradish
sauce and semi-set aspic mixed with brunoise.
— aux petlts pois. — Broiled trout with green peas.
— & la Royal. — Braised trout, with white wine sauce,
garnished with small fish quenelles, champignons,
truffles, and glazed croutons.
— saumon6e boullUe. — Boiled salmon trout.
— saumon^e t la Norvigienne (cold). — Boiled salmon
trout dressed on rice socle, masked with mayonnaise
and aspic ; garnished with tarragon and chervil leaves,
cucumber rind and slices, and chilli ; served with
cold horseradish sauce.
— saumon6e k la Rothschild (cold). — Baked stuffed
salmon trout masked cold with madfere sauce (chaud-
froid), decorated with trufSe's, blocks of set aspic,
cucumber, lemon, and parsley.
— d la Vaucluse. — Same as " Meunidre," using Provence oil
in place of butter.
— ^ la Vinaigrette (cold). — Cold boiled trout, served with
vinegar and oil dressing, chopped gherkins, capers,
and parsley.
THE FISH COURSE. 119
FUets de Trulte au Vin blane. — Broiled fillets of trout,
with white wine sauce.
— £t la Mayonnaise (cold). — Cold fillets of trout, in border
of aspic and mayonnaise, centre filled with dressed
salad.
— frites i la Milanaise. — Fillets of trout marinaded in
oil, etc., then rolled in breadcrumbs and grated
cheese, then in egg and chopped parsley, and fried
in oil ; served with Italian sauce.
— ^ la Mirabeau. — Braised fillets of trout with mirabeau
sauce.
— au vin rouge. — Fillets of trout poached in court-
bouillon, and sauced with bordelaise (red wine sauce).
— tla Tomate. — Fried fillets of trOut with tomato sauce.
Mousseline de Trulte i la Tosca. — Quenelles of trout
(niousseline farce) poached, garnished with slice of
lobster and truffle ; sauce mornay.
Tron(!ons de truite h la Grfique. — Slices of large trout, or
salmon- trout, cooked in " court-bouillon," skimmed,
and masked with fish aspic, centre of each filled with
cold fish farce (cooked) ; garnished with hard-boiled
egg slices, truffles, and small salad.
Turbot — Turbot.
Turbotin— Foung Turbot.
Turbot a rAmlral.— Slices of turbot poached in fish stock
with sauteme, garnished with groups of oysters,
mussels, mushrooms, and truffles, also crayfish
bouchees ; sauce normande.
— boulUi. — Boiled turbot.
— & la Cambac6res. — Braised turbot with velbut6 sauce,
garnished with celery strips, crayfish croquettes, and
mussels.
— ^ la Daumont. — Same as " i. I'Amiral," but garnished
with fish quenelles, fried fish roe, prawns, and mush-
rooms, also fish potatoes ; sauce nantua.
— sauce aux Crevettes. — Boiled turbot with shrimp sauce.
— sauce Homard. — Boiled turbot with lobster sauce.
— & la Hongroise. — Boiled slices of turbot, dished, and
sauced over with paprika or Hongroise sauce, and
browned in oven, garnished with Parisian potatoes.
— sauce aux Huttres. — Boiled turbot with oyster sauce.
— ik la ProveUQale. — Small whole turbot (or thick slices)
cooked in veloute sauce, white wine, white stock,
chopped shallots, and bouquet garni ; dished up with
a rich white herb sauce, flavoured with anchovy
essence, chopped parsley, and capers.
— sauce aux oeufs. — Boiled turbot with egg sauce.
— sauce aux Anchols. — Boiled turbot and anchovy saupe.
120 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY.
Turbot A, la Reyni4re. — Stewed turbot, flaked, and served
in shells, coated with shrimp sauce.
— bouilli ti la Victoria. — Boiled turbot, garnished with ball-
shaped lobster croquettes, prawns, and parsley;
served with Victoria sauce.
— i la Vatel.— Boned turbot, stuffed with lobster farce,
grilled or braised, and served with white wine sauce
and crayfish garnish.
Escalopes de Turbot i la Daupblne. — Fillets or escallops of
turbot, poached, and covered with fisti farce, baked,
and dressed in centre of decorated border of potato
pur6e, sauced over with prawn or crayfish sauce, and
garnished with small fish quenelles.
Filets de Turbot frits. — Fried fillets of turbot.
— i la Boltel. — Turbot fillet with white wine sauce,
and champignons, browned in oven.
— ^ la CarSme. — Slices of turbot, garnished with slices of
trufiies, mushrooms, halves of oysters, dressed on
border of whiting forcemeat, with garniture and
picked prawns in centre ; sauced over with rich
cardinal sauce.
— 4 la Cussy. — Fillets of turbot, poached in white wine,
mushroom liquor, etc. ; garnished with mushrooms,
cocks' kernels, and quenelles, covered with allemande
and tomato sauces (blended) ; decorated with slices
of lemon and fleurons.
■ — ft la Duchesse. — Fillets of turbot, poached, and ranged
on potato border (Duchesse), sauced over with
cream sauce, and garnished with truffles.
— ft la Florentine. — Saut^ed fillets of turbot, covered with
layer of spinach puree and bechamel sauce, mixed
with grated cheese, then sprinkled with breadcrumbs,
grated cheese, and oiled butter, and baked.
— ft la Maltre d'H6tel.— Broiled fillets of turbot with
parsley butter.
— ft la Salamandre. — Poached fillets of turbot, dished up
in row on buttered dish, covered with veloute or rich
bechamel sauce, sprinkled with grated cheese, etc.,
and browned under salamander.
— au vln blanc— Poached or broiled fillets of turbot,
with white wme sauce.
Fleurettes de Turbot ft la HoUandalse (cold).— Small flat
dariole shapes of cooked turbot set with mayonnaise
cream, dressed on bed of salad or little blocks of aspic.
SuprSme de Turbot ft la Royale.— Fillets of turbot, poached
in white wine, etc., dressed on gratiu dish, covered
with rich white fish sauce, sprinkled with grated
Swiss cheese and butter, and browned in the oven.
SAUCES. 121
Timbales de Turbot & la Russe. — Small timbale shapes of
cooked flakes of turbot, garnished with prawns,
parsley, etc., dressed round a rice shape.
Turbotin k la Lusslnoise.— Small young turbot filleted and
steeped in marinade, then cooked in an onion mire-
poix ; upon this a light layer of fish farce is placed,
and then finished in the oven ; sauce aux champignons
is poured over the top before serving ; served in
casserole.
Croquettes de Polsson. — Cutlet shapes of mixture com-
posed of cold fish, bdchamel sauce, anchovy essence,
6gg-yolk, dipped in egg and breadcrumbs or panu-
rette, and fried in deep fat.
Entrees de Polsson froid Cold dressed fish entries ;
suitable also as luncheon, buffet, cold collation, and
ball supper dishes.
Pat§ de Poisson & rAm^rieaine (American Fish Pie). —
Pie crust filled with layers of mashed potatoes,
cooked turbot, cod or haddock, flaked ; white sauce
and grated cheese ,■' surface egged and sprinkled over
with grated cheese, and baked in oven.
— a la Marini^re. — French raised pie filled with twisted
fillets of sole, pieces of eel, mushroom heads, prawn
tails, button onions, anchovy sauce flavoured with
claret, and baked.
Timbales de Poisson A, la Marigny. — Small dariole moulds
lined with fish farce, centre filled with prawn tails,
herring roes, and trufile, made up as salpicon ; sauce
hollandaise with crayfish butter ; served hot.
Vol-au-Vent h la Chambord. — Round or oval puff paste
crust (vol-au-vent) filled with crayfish tails, truffles,
mushrooms, small fish quenelles, bearded oysters,
and genoise sauce.
PART V.
SAUCES.
The importance of sauce in cookery is so well known that
I need not offer any excuse for including the definitions
of all the standard sauces and the most popular of other
liquid seasonings in this book.
In almost every instance some kind of sauce is named
along with, or as an ingredient in, the preparation of dishes.
Again, the blending of two or more sauces is frequently
recommended, so that we have given the names of these.
122 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY.
together with a condensed description of the kinds most
frequently required. It is needless to add that the blend-
ing of a sauce, its flavour and colovir, has much to do with
the success of any dish with which it is served, whilst the
harmonising effect, or the want of it, may make or spoil
a, dish listed on a menu.
Sauce Albert. — AUemande sauce with finely chopped
shallots reduced in tarragon vinegar, grated horse-
radish, cream, yolks of eggs, and chopped parsley.
— Albut^ra. — Rich white sauce (supreme) enriched with
meat extract or glaze.
— AUemande (German). — A white sauce made from veal
stock, thickened with white roux, cream, and yolks of
eggs, flavoured with nutmeg and lemon juice.
— Am^rlcalne (American). — Tomato sauce blended with
lobster butter (whisked in).
— Amiral (Admiral). — A white sauce, with chopped
capers, parsley, lemon rind and juice, and anchovy
paste to flavour.-
— Anchols (Anchovy). — A fish sauce made with flour,
butter, fish stock, milk, and anchovy essence.
— Andalouse (cold). — Mayonnaise, blended with tomato
pulp and mixed with finely cut red sweet peppers.
— Aromate (Aromatic). — White sauce, blended richly
with aromatic herb puree.
— AuTore (Aurora). — Bechamel sauce, cream, red pepper,
tarragon, and shallot, flavoured with lobster butter to
give it a reddish tint.
— Avignonnaise. — Bechamel sauce, yolks of eggs, grated
parmesan cheese, and chopped parsley, flavoured with
shallots and garlic.
— Ayola. — A mayonnaise flavoured with crushed garlic
and lemon juice.
— Ayoii, Aioii (cold). — Mayonnaise made with hard-
boiled egg-yolks, flavoured with garlic, lemon juice,
and cayenne.
— B&rtaide Anglalse. — English melted butter sauce
flavoured with lemon juice.
— Bartarde (cold). — Bearnaise, flavoured with fish essence
(stock), enriched with tomato pur6e and anchovy
butter.
— Bavaroise. — HoUaudaise (Dutch) sauce, enriched with
whipped cream and crayfish butter.
— B6arnalse. — Consists of fresh butter, yolks of eggs,
chopped shallots or onion, tatragon, parsley, a pinch
of cayenne, and lemon juice.
SA UCES. 123
Sauce B^arnaise Brune. — Same as " Beamaise," with the
addition of meat glaze to give it a brown colour.
— B^arnaise-Tomate. — Same as "Beamaise," adding
tomato puree in place of meat glaze.
— Beauharnals. — Beamaise sauce, enriched with tarragon
pur6e.
— B6chamelt(Foundation^Sauce). — ^Made with milk or
milkj, aiid stock, flour, and butter (white roux),
flavoured with pepper, nutmeg, and bay-leaf.
— Beefsteak. — A light brown sauce made of chopped
onion, parsley, meat glaze, and butter, flavoured with
sherry and lemon juice.
— B^rcy. — Thin demi-glace with chopped shallots reduced
in white wine, enriched with fresh butter, chopped
parsley, and lemon juice.
— Beurre (au). — Melted butter sauce.
— Beurre Crimeuse. — Creamed butter sauce ; beaten egg-
yolks and butter stirred into boiling stock.
— Beurre Nolr (Black Butter). — A thin brown sauce made
with nut-brown butter, flavoured with tarragon
vinegar and anchovy essence.
— Beurre Noisette (au), — Same as " Beurre Noir," with
butter only slightly brown.
— Bigarade. — Demi-glace sauce with shreds of orange
rind, flavoured with orange juice and red-currant
jelly.
— Blanche. — White sauce made with white roux, half
stock and milk, finished with butter and lemon juice.
— Blanquette. — AUemande (white) sauce, enriched with
an extra quantity of cream.
— Boh^mienne (Bohemian). — ^A white sauce made with
fresh breadcrumbs, white stock, butter, and grated
horseradish, seasoned with pepper and salt.
— Bonne Femme. — A white sauce made with finely
chopped onion and shallots, blended in butter and
cooked m fish stock, thickened with egg-yolks and
whipped cream, seasoned and flavoured with lemon
juice.
— Bonnefoy. — A light bordelaise sauce, into which
fresh butter, chopped parsley, and beef marrow are
incorporated.
— Bordelaise (Bordelaise). — A brown sauce, with reduc-
tions of red wine, chopped parsley, tarragon, and
shalots.
— Bouillabaisse.— Tomato sauce, enriched with fish essence,
flavoured with garlic, and finished with fresh butter.
— Bourguignonne (Burgundy). — Espagnole sauce, finely
jninced onions reduced in Burgundy wine, flavoured
with thyme, bay-leaf, cloves, and mace.
124 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY.
Bread Sauce. — Milk, flavoured with onion and clove,
and thickened with fresh breadcrumbs.
Sauce Bressolse. — Reduced espagnol, flavoured with shallots
and orange juice, enriched with puree of chicken liver.
— Bretonne (Britanny), — Veloutfe sauce with finely-cut
wisps of celery, leek, and truffles.
— Broglle. — Espagnole, blended with ham, reduced v/ith
sherry and mushroom liquor, enriched with fresh
butter.
— Bulgare. — Cold tomato sauce, blended with finely-
shredded cooked celery.
— Byron. — Demi-glace sauce, with a reduction of claret
and chopped Jiuffles.
— Cambridge (cold). — Mayonnaise, mixed with parsley
puree, capers, and anchovy paste, flavoured with
mustard.
— Canop6re.^-A hot fish sauce made with fish, court-
bouillon, and blond roux, enriched with crayfish
butter.
— Canotlere. — White fish sauce with white wine flavour,
enriched with fresh butter, seasoned with cayenne.
— CSpres (Caper). — A white sauce with capers.
— C&pres Brune (Brown Caper Sauce). — ^A brown sauce
with capers, seasoned with black pepper and nutmeg.
— Cap£tienne. — White wine sauce with tomato puree,
made B6arnaise style.
— Cardinal. — White fish sauce mixed with lobster coral
or spawn, flavoured with essence of anchovies and
tarragon vinegar.
— Carlet. — A white cream-like sauce made with fish
stock, white wine, butter, flour, and egg-yolks,
seasoned with salt, pepper, nutmeg, and sugar.
— Casteiaine (Castillane). — Demi-glace, with pimiento
(Spanish pepper) and finely-chopped ham, flavoured
with lemon juice.
— Cavalier. — Thin brown sauce, blended with tomato
puree, flavoured with tarragon vinegar and French
mustard, mixed with finely chopped chutney,
gherkins, and capers.
— Cazanova. — A cold fish or salad sauce, composed of
mayonnaise, finely-shredded truffles, and whites
of hard-boiled eggs, flavoured with garlic.
— C616rle (Celery). — A white sauce, with cooked chopped
celery ; served with boiled poultry.
— Champagne. — Thin brown sauce, reduced with cham-
pagne and ham essence.
— Champignons (Mushrooms). — Velout6 and mushroom
liquor, or demi-glace and sliced mushrooms.
SAUCES. 125
Sauce ChantlUy. — Well reduced bechamel blended with
whipped cream.
— Cbantilly (cold). — Mayonnaise sauce with whipped
cream, flavoured with grated horseradish.
— Chasseur (Huntsman). — Espagnole sauce, with chopped
shallots, mushrooms, and parsley, flavoured with
pepper, lemon juice, and game essence.
— Chateaubriand. — Rich brown sauce made with meat
glaze, espagnole sauce, fresh butter, white wine, lemon
juice, and chopped parsley, flavoured with cayenne
pepper and red currant jelly.
— Chaudfrold. — Masking or coating sauce, made of well-
reduced white, fawn, cream, green, red, or brown
sauce, blended with sufficient dissolved gelatine or
aspic to set when cold.
— Chevreuil (Venison). — A brown sauce, reduced with
claret, port wine, and thinly sliced gherkins, seasoned
with red pepper.
— Chicory. — Veloute sauce, blended with green herb
butter (fines herbes),
— Chivry. — Veloute sauce with infusion of chablis tarra-
gon, chervil, parsley, and chives, finished with green
herb butter.
— Choron. Bearnaise sauce, blended with tomato puree.
— Citron au (Lemon). — HoUandaise sauce with finely-
grated lemon rind added.
— Colbert.— Thin brown fish sauce, enriched with butter
and glaze, finely chopped herbs, and lemon juice. ,
— Comtesse. — White wine sauce, enriched with fish
essence and truffle puree.
— Concombre (Cucumber). — B6chamel or white cream
sauce, blended with cucumber puree.
— Cordolier. — Maddre sauce, enriched with truffle and
foie-gras puree.
— Cornichon (Gherkin). — A brown sharp sauce, like
poivrade, with finely chopped gherkins.
— Crapaudine. — Espagnole, reduced with veal stock,
vinegar, shallots, and bouquet garni, enriched with
fi-esh butter.
— Creme (Cream). — Bechamel sauce enriched with fresh
cream.
— Creole. — Tomato sauce, blended with finely chopped
shallots reduced in white wine, mixed with thin strips
of pimiento.
— Crevettes. (Shrimp). — Pink fish sauce with picked
shrimps.
126 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY.
Sauce Cumberland. — Thin brown sauce, witji meat glazed
orange juice, red-currant jelly, lemon juice, and port
wine, fine shreds of orange rind, seasoned with mus-
tard, paprika, and ginger.
— Curry (Currie). — A pale brown or fawn coloured sauce
made with veloutfe gravy, finely chopped onion
fried in butter, and curry powder, well reduced and
tamined.
— Cussy.— Espagnole sauce, blended with fumet of
pigeon, reduced with Sherry.
— Czarlne.^Demi-glace sauce with chopped gherkins,
capers, and bleached raisins.
— Danolse (Danish). — White wine sauce flavoured with
grated cheese, anchovy cream, and lobster butter.
— Daumont. — Fish sauce made like HoUandaise, using
oyster liqueur, egg-yolks, lemon juice, with sliced
oysters, mushrooms, and truffles.
— Demi-Deull. — VeIout6 sauce, mixed with finely chopped
truffles.
— Demidoff. — MadSre sauce with sliced truffles.
— Deml-glace (Half-glaze). — Espagnole reduced with
veal stock or gravy of light consistency.
— Diable (Devilled).— Chopped shallots blended in butter
and reduced in vinegar, diluted with demi-glace and
red wine, reduced and highly seasoned with Worcester
sauce, cayenne, etc.
— Diane. — Poivrade sauce, enriched with cream.
— Digestive. — Soubise sauce, blended with apple and
tomato pur6e, and flavoured with curry paste and
French mustard.
— Diplomato. — B6chamel sauce blended with lobster
butter and anchovy essence.
— Duchesse. — B6chamel, enriched with fresh butter,
with finely chopped ox-tongue and mushrooms.
— Ducl6r6 or DugI6r6.— Tomato sauce blended with
bechamel and tish essence, finished with fresh butter
and chopped parsley.
— Duxelle — Brown sauce enriched with tomato puree and
meat glaze, chopped mushrooms, truffles, ham, blended
shallots and parsley, fliavoured with lemon juice.
— Echalote (Shallot).— Thin brown gravy sauce, with
finely chopped shallots and parsley blended in butter,
flavoured with shallot vinegar or finely chopped
shallots mixed with vinegar, and lemon juice and
seasoning ; served with oysters.
— Ecossalse (Scotch) — Bfechamel sauce mixed with finely
chopped hard-boiled white and yolk of egg.
SAUCES. 127
Sauce Ecrevisses (Crayfish). — White cream sauce mixed
with crayfish butter.
• — Epicurlenne. — (Cold). — ^Mayonnaise cream mixed with
cucumber pur^e, aspic, chopped gherkins and chutney,
served cold.
— Epicurienne (Hot).— White sauce acidulated with
vinegar, reduced with cayenne pods and catchup.
— Espagnole (Foundation Sauce). — A brown sauce made
with brown roux, mirepoix of vegetables, and ham or
bacon, tomatoes, mushrooms, meat stock, wine, and
seasoning.
— Estragon (Tarragon). — Demi-glace reduced with white
wine and tarragon vinegar, with finely chopped
blanched tarragon leaves.
— Etretat. — AUemande sauce or veloute flavoured with
white fish essence and veiry little tomato puree.
— Filix. — Brown sauce, flavoured with lemon j uice and
crayfish essence, finished with butter.
— FenouU (Fennel). — A white sauce, with finely chopped
fennel, flavoured with lemon juice; served with boiled
fish.
— Fermldre (Farmhouse). — Brown sauce, with finely
chopped ham, and onion puree, served with game.
■ — Financidre. — Brown mad^re sauce reduced with
chicken essence, trufiie, and mushroom liquor.
— Fines Herbes. — A white or brown sauce, with finely
chopped herbs (parsley, tarragon, and chervil) ;
chopped shallots blended in butter are sometimes
added.
— Flamande (Flemish). — A white sauce, with egg-yolks,
flavoured with mustard.
— Fleurette. — Rich white cream sauce enriched with
chicken essence,
— Foyot. — BSarnaise sauce, enriched with meat glaze.
— Franpaise (French). — Bearnaise sauce with tomato
pur6e and fish essence flavour.
— Francois. — Tomato sauce reduced with white wine,
with chopped mushrooms finished with butter.
— Garibaldi. — A brown sauce, flavoured with crushed
garlic, capers, curry, anchovy paste, and mustard ;
served with fish or meat.
— Gastronome. — Brown sauce, espagnole or demi-glace,
reduced with champagne, seasoned with cayenne.
— G6n6TaIe. — A brown savoury sauce flavoured with
lemon juice, tarragon vinegar, orange peel finely
chopped, garlic, and sherry.
— Genivoise (Geneva), — ^Madfere sauce reduced with fish
essence, flavoured with garlic and anchovy essence.
128 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY.
Sauce G^noise (Genoese). — Demi-glace or espagnoie-
reduced with fish stock and red wine, flavoured with
anchovy essence, parsley, and mushrooms.
— G^noise (cold). — Mayonnaise sauce, blended with
bechamel, flavoured with pounded pignolis or
almonds, also green herb pur6e.
— Gibler (Game). — A brown sauce flavoured with essence
of game.
— Gloucester (cold). — ^Mayonnaise cream mixed with
chopped tarragon, flavoured with mustard and chilU
vinegar ; served with fish or meat salads.
— Godard. — Espagnoie or demi-glace, reduced with chablis,
mixed with chopped ham and champignons.
— Gooseberry (groseille verte). — Gooseberry puree,blended
with syrup, with or without cream, served with grilled
mackerel or roast goose.
— Gourmet. — A brown fish sauce mixed with lobster
butter, chopped prawns, and truffles.
— Grand Venear. — Espagnoie reduced with blood of game,
hare, etc., highly spiced with pepper,
— Granville. — White wine sauce mixed with chopped
mushrooms, shrimps, and truffles.
— Gratln. — White wine sauce, blended with demi-glace,
mixed with dropped champignons (Duxelle).
— Gribiche. — Mayonnaise mixed with mustard and finely
chopped herbs, and hard white of egg.
— Hachie, — Espagnoie and tomato sauce with shallot and
vinegar reduction.
— Hachls. — Brown sauce, with chopped mushrooms,
capers, and gherkins.
— H&VTOise. — White wine sauce reduced with liquor of
mussels.
— Hessoise. — Cold horseradish sauce made with sour
cream, grated horseradish, and fresh breadcrumbs,
seasoned with sugar and salt ; served with roast beef
or steaks.
— HoUandalse (Dutch). — A rich fish sauce prepared
with butter, yolks of eggs, tarragon vinegar, lemon
juice, and mignonette pepper.
— HoIIandaise Verte. — HoUandaise sauce mixed with
parsley leaves, blanched and pounded.
— Holstein. — Bechamel sauce reduced with fish stock and
white wine, thickened with egg-yolks, and flavoured
with nutmeg.
— Homard (Lobster). — Bechamel, with chopped lobster
meat, finished with lobster butter.
— Hongroise (Hungarian). — Veloutfe or allemande sauce
mixed with sour cream, and highly seasoned with
paprika.
SAUCES. 129
Sauce Horly. — A supreme (rich white) sauce blended with
tomato puree, meat extract or glaze, and butter.
— Horseradish (Raifort). — Cold cream sauce with grated
horseradish, mustard, and vinegar, or hot white
sauce blended with grated horseradish and mustard.
— Huitres (Oyster). — B6chamel, with oysters,' bearded and
cut in four, egg-yolks and lemon juice.
— Hflre de Sangller (Boar's Head). — A cold sauce pre-
pared with bitter orange juice and finely chopped rind,
sugar, red-currant jelly, port wine, and prepared
mustard, seasoned with black pepper. A useful
stock sauce.
— Hussarde. — Espagnole sauce and veal stock reduced,
mixed with onion and tomato purees, flavoured with
grated horseradish.
— Impfratlice. — ^AUemande or veloute sauce enriched
with chicken and truffle essence, finished with
cream.
— Indienne (Indian). — A brown sauce flavoured with curry
powder or paste.
— • Itallenne (Italian). — Espagnole sauce blended with
tomato puree, chopped mushrooms, white wine, and
chopped shaltots fried in oil ; seasoned with pepper,
lemon juice, and nutmeg.
— Ivoire. — Rich white sauce with chicken essence and
cream finish.
— Jambon (Ham). — A brown sauce, with finely shredded
ham, chopped chives, shallots, and parsley, flavoured
with lemon juice and paprika or krone pepper.
— Joinville. — A white fish sauce enriched with yolks of
eggs, fresh butter, and lobster coral ; flavoured with
lemon juice, and cayenne pepper.
— Juliette. — Supreme sauce with tarragon and chervil
flavour.
Jus ^ I'Estragon. — Gravy sauce with tarragon flavour.
Jus TomatS-^Gravy sauce with tomato flavour.
Sauce Kari, — Indian curry sauce. White or brown sauce
with curry flavour.
— • Laguipiere. — Melted butter sauce with fish essence
and lemon juice. >
— Lavalliere. — Demi-glace sauce with game fumet (es-
sence), blended with sour cream, mixed with finely
shredded truffles and (mushrooms.
— Livonienne. — Dissolved meat glaze, blended with sour
cream and fennel puree, finished with butter.
— Llvournaise. — A cold sauce prejpared with anchovy
fillets, yolks of eggs, sweet oil, vinegar, chopped
Darslev. nenner. anH rm+mpcr
r^o PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY.
Sauce Lyonnalse (Lyons sauce). — A kind of tomato sauce
with minced Spanish onions (previously fried in
butter), flavoured with meat glaze and lemon juice ;
also made with bechamel foundation.
— Madere (Madeira).— ^A brown sauce composed of demi-
glace sauce, and tomato puree, Madeira wine.
— Maillet. — Madere sauce mixed witli hard egg-yolks,
sieved and blended shallots, cayenne seasoning.
— Malntenon. — White onion puree thickened with egg-
yolks and veloute sauce.
— Maitre d 'Hotel (Hotel-keeper). — A white sauce with
butter, cream, and chopped parsley.
— Malaga (Port Wine). — A brown sauce prepared with
meat glaze, port wine, and lemon juice, flavoured
with shallots and cayenne.
— Maltaise. — ^Veloute sauce with chopped parsley, shallots.
and mushrooms, diluted with sherry wine, flavoured
with lemon j nice and finely shredded orange peel.
— Marchand de Vin (Wine merchant). — Demi-glace,
reduced with fried shallots, cUiret, and meat
glaze.
— Itlarichale. — Allemande or veloute sauce mixed with
champignon pur6e.
— Marguiry. — White fish sauce, blended with oyster
puree, and finished with cream.
— Marigny, — Demi-glace sauce with tomato purfee and
mushroom liquor, wliite wine reduction.
— Marinldre. — White wine sauce, with finely chopped
herbs, shallots, and fish essence.
— Marseillaise. — HoUandaise sauce blended with tomato
' puree
— Matelote (blanche.) — A white fish sauce, with mush-
room juice, white wine, and button mushrooms,
flavoured with savoury herbs.
— Matelote (brune). — A red wine sauce reduced with fish
essence, mushroom liquor, and anchovy essence.
— Matlgnon, — Ham essence reduced witli Madere sauce
blended with port wine, and mixed with peeled
muscate grapes, paprika seasoning.
— Maximiltan.— Tartare sauce, with tomato pulp and
finely chopped tarragon leaves to flavour.
— Mayonnaise. — A cold sauce composed of yolks of
eggs, salt, pepper, salad oil, and vinegar ; a little cold
bechamel sauce or cream is sometimes added as
foundation.
— Mayonnaise collie.— Mayonnaise sauce, fortified with
liquified gelatine or aspic, used for coating or masking.
SAUCES. 131
Sauce Midicis. — Beamaise, flavoured with tomato puree
and very little red wine.
— Mel&a.^Chopped shallots cooked in chabUs, reduced
in tomato sauce, and thickened with egg-yolks,
finished like hollandaise.
— Menthe (Mint). — Consists of vinegar, chopped green
mint leaves, and moist sugar to flavour.
— Mlrabeau.— Veloute sauce with pounded garlic, chopped
parsley, lemon juice, and a liaison of butter and meat
extract.
— Miroton. — Demi-glace, blended with finely minced,
blanched, and fried onions, tomato sauce, vinegar
and mustard to flavour.
— Moelle (Beef Marrow). — Espagnole sauce flavoured
with fried shallot, mixed with blanched beef marrow
cut in thin slices, chopped parsley, vinegar and
cayenne to taste.
— Morley. — Velout6 sauce, enriched with mushroom
essence and cream.
— Mornay. — Bechamel, enriched with egg-yolks and
grated cheese.
— Mosfovlte. — Poivrade or pepper sauce mixed with
sour cream, flavoured with juniper berries.
— Moules (Mussels). — Hollandaise sauce, with cooked
mussels.
— Mousseline. — A very light, froth-like sauce, holland-
aise whisked with double cream. Other moussehne
sauces are made with tomato or spinach foundations.
— Mousseuse. — Hollandaise sauce, enriched with whipped
cream.
— Moutarde (Mustard). — Melted butter or bechamel
sauce, mixed with prepared mustard.
— Nantua. — Bechamel, reduced with fish essence, finished
with crayfish butter and cream.
— Napolitaine. — A brown sauce, with finely minced ham,
claret, currant jelly, and grated horseradish, flavoured
with shallots, hay-leaf, thyme, and cloves.
— Nipoise. — Demi-glace, blended with concentrated
Italian tomato pur6e.
— Niveraaise. — Allemande or veloute with finely shredded
carrots.
— Noisette. — Hollandaise sauce, mixed with baked,
pounded, and sieved hazel-nuts, finished with
double cream.
— Nonparellle. — Hollandaise sauce enriched with cray-
fish or lobster butter, mixed with chopped lobster
meat, mushrooms, hard-boiled whites of eggs, and
truffles.
132 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY.
Sauce Norah. — Poivrade or pepper sauce with red-currant
jelly, Worcester sauce, meat glaze, and lemon -juice.
— Normande. — A white fish sauce, thickened with egg-
yolks, fresh butter and cream, flavoured with lemon
juice and essence of fish.
■ — Norv^gienne (Norwegian). — A cold sauce prepared with
hard-boiled egg-yolks (passed through a sieve), yolks
of fresh eggs, salt, pepper^ prepared mustard, oil, and
vinegar, mixed with finely chopped herbs.
— (Eufs (Egg). — A white sauce or hoUandaise sauce with
hard-boiled eggs finely chopped.
— Oignon (Onion). — A white sauce, with minced and
blanched onions, seasoned with nutmeg, salt, and
pepper ; served with rabbit or mutton. Brown
onion sauce is made by frying the onions first, mixed
with espagnole.
— Olives. — A brown sauce, with stoned or turned olives,
flavoured with lemon juice ; served with ducks,
fowls, and beef.
— Orange. — Reduced gravy sauce, mixed with orange
juice and finely shredded orange rind ; served with
roast duck or game.
— Orleans. — Fish veloutfe sauce, reduced with white wine,
finished with crayfish butter.
— Orly. — Espagnole sauce, reduced with mushroom
liquor and tomato pur6e.
— Osellle (Sorrel). — Gravy or demi-glace sauce, with finely
chopped blanched sorrel leaves ; served with fish, veal
or fowls, etc.
— Ours (Bear). — Poivrade sauce reduced with braize
liquor, finished with butter.
^ Oxford. — A cold game sauce, same as Cumberland,
with addition of finely grated orange-rind.
— Oyster. — White sauce with quartered oysters.
— Pain (Bread). — Milk thickened with fresh bread-
crumbs, cooked with a small onion stuck with a clove ;
finished with a little butter, and seasoned with salt
and pepper ; served with roast poultry and some
game.
— Paloise. — B^arnaise or HoUandaise sauce with an
infusion of green mint.
— Paprika. — Veloute or allemande sauce highly seasoned
with paprika and red Hungarian pepper.
— Parlsienne. — A rich brown sauce, witli chopped shallots,
parsley, lemon juice, and meat glaze, worked up a
little with fresh butter ; served with entrecotes,
steaks or fillets of beef.
— Paul Bort.— White wine sauce, blended with tomato
pur6e and Bearnaise sauce.
SAUCES. 133
Sauce Pauvre Homme (Poor Man). — A brown sauce,
blended with tomato ketchup, vmegar, and anchovy
sauce ; suitable as a fish sauce.
— P6rlgueux (Perigord). — MadSre sauce with finely
chopped truffles, enriched with meat glaze.
— Persil (Parsley). — Melted butter or bechamel sauce,
with finely chopped parsley.
— Persillade. — A kind of vinaigrette sauce, prepared with
mustard, sweet oil, vinegar, salt, pepper, lemon juice,
and chopped savoury herbs ; served cold with fish,
vegetables or salad.
— Piccadilly. — Demi-glace sauce, blended with anchovy
butter, shallot flavour, and English mustard.
— Pi^montaise. — Velout6 sauce, enriched with veal essence,
anchovy butter, and chopped truffles.
— Pignol. — Poivrade sauce, enriched with cream and
chopped pignolis.
— Piment. — ^Demi-glace sauce blended with tomato puree,
highly seasoned with chopped pimentos and cayenne.
— Piquante (Sharp). — A sharp brown sauce with chopped
gherkins, capers, and shallots, seasoned with plenty
of pepper and essence of anchovy.
— Poivrade (Pepper). — A brown pepper sauce, flavoured
with lean bacon or ham, celery, onions, thyme, and
bay-leaf, reduced with vinegar, anchovy essence, and
black pepper.
— Polignac. — White wine sauce, enriched with cream and
fresh mushrooms cut into fine shreds.
— ■ Polonaise (Polish). — Veloute sauce with sour cream,
grated horseradish, chopped fennel, and lemon juice;
served with cutlets or steaks.
— Pomme (Apple). — Apple pulp, slightly sweetened, en-
riched with whipped cream ; served hot with roast
pork, goose or duck.
— Pompadour. — Allemande or veloute sauce with shallots
(fried), cream, egg-yolks, chopped mushrooms, and
parsley.
— Porto. — Demi-glace sauce reduced with port-wine, and
fried onion flavour.
— Portugalse. — Tomato sauce diluted with well reduced
veal gravy, flavoured with onion and garlic, blanched
and fried.
— Poulette (Veloute). — A white sauce, flavoured with
aromatic herbs, thickened with egg-yolks and fresh
butter, finished with chopped parsley and lemon juice.
— Prince do Galles (Prince of Wales). — A cold sauce pre-
pared with hard-boiled and raw egg-yolks, salad oil,
tarragon vinegar, mixed with finely chopped herbs and
French mustard ; served with grilled or fried fish
or meat,
134 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY.
Sauce Prlncesse. — Well reduced aUemande or bechamel with
chicken essence and mushroom liquor, sliced mush-
rooms and double cream.
— Prlneiire. — White fish sauce, enriched with cray-
fish butter, finely shredded crayfish tails, and
truffles.
— PrintanlSre. — Veloute sauce, enriched with fresh butter
and green vegetable pur6e or cubes.
— Provenfale. — Demi-glace with tomato pulp, finely
chopped and fried onions, sUced mushrooms, and
chopped parsley and olives, flavoured with lemon juice
and garlic.
— Raifort (chaude) (Horseradish, hot). — Bechamel sauce,
mixed with grated horseradish and a little cream.
— Raifort (frolde) (Horseradish, cold). — Sour cream,
mixed with freshly grated horseradish and a little
vinegar, seasoned with sugar and salt.
— Ravlgote (chaude).— A white sauce, flavoured with
savoury herbs, reduced with wine \'inegar, finished
with fine herbs, butter, and cream (hot).
— Ravlgote (froide). — Mayonnaise sauce, mixed with
chopped parsley, chives, chervil, tarragon, and shallots,
tinted with a little spinach greening (cold).
— Rfiforme.— Poivrade sauce, diluted with port wine, red-
currant jelly, and Worcester sauce.
— Rigence. — Demi-glace or gravy sauce, reduced with
white wine and truffle essence, flavoured with finely
minced and blended onions.
— R6gente. — Rich white sauce with truffle and mushroom
essence incorporated.
— Reine-Marie (Queen Mary). — A brown sauce, made
with rich meat gravy, port wine, chopped shallots,
parsley, and pounded anchovies ; served with all
kinds of roast meats or boiled fish.
— R6moulade. — A mayonnaise sauce with chopped
parsley, fennel, tarragon leaves, shallots, and pre-
pared mustard.
— Rieardo. — A brown sauce, prepared from the carcase
of game, with finely minced fried onions, toasted
bread, sherry, thickened with a little meat glaze ;
servefi with dishes of game, etc.
— Rlche. — HoUandaise, enriched with lobster butter or
spawn, with dice shapes of truffles and crayfish tails.
— Richelieu. — A brown game sauce, reduced with
Madeira wine and meat extract.
— Robert (Robert). — A brown sauce with finely chopped
onionsf fried in butter, chilli vinegar, prepared
mustard, and a little anchovy essence.
SAUCES. 135
Sauce Romaine (Roman). — Demi-glace or espagnole sauce,
mixed with currants, sultanas, Italian pine-seeds
ipignoli), diluted and reduced with white wine
vinegar, and strained.
— Roosevelt. — Tomato sauce blended with apple puree,
flavoured with' lemon rind grated.
— Rouennaise. — MadSre sauce, blended with raw duck-
liver puree.
— Rubens. — Fish veloute sauce, blended with mushroom
liquor, enriched with anchovy butter and hard egg-
yolks.
— Russe (Russian).^ — AUemande or bechamel with grated
horseradish, finely chopped ham, shallots, reduced
with vinegar and white wine, seasoned with sour
cream, sugar, pepper, and salt ; served hot.
— Russe (Iroide). — Cold remoulade sauce blended with
grated horseradish and caviare.
— Salmis. — A brown game sauce, reduced with white
wine, meat glaze, and tomato pulp, flavoured with
savoury herbs.
— Saxonne. — Melted butter sauce with fish essence,
shallot flavour, blended with grated lemon rind
and mustard.
— Slcilienne (Sicilian). — Espagnole sauce, reduced with
Marsala wine ; sliced onions fried in butter are mixed
with the sauce just before serving ; served with
beefsteaks, roast fillets of beef, etc.
— Smitane. — Onion puree, reduced with white wine and
bechamel, enriched with sour cream.
— SoIt6rino. — Demi-glace sauce with shallot reduced in
Madeira wine, blended with tomato puree.
— Soubise. — A white, sauce with onion puree, seasoned
with nutmeg, pepper, sugar, and salt, enriched with
cream and butter.
— Souchet. — Fish licjuor, reduced with finely-shredded
carrots, onion, and celery, also chopped parsley.
— Soyer. — A white fish sauce, flavoured with savoury
herbs, shallots, and lemon juice, thickened with
egg-yolks and cream.
— St. Malo. — White wine sauce with shallot flavour,
enriched with anchovy butter and mustard.
— St. Menehould. — Bechamel sauce, enriched with veal
essence, mixed with chopped parsley and cham-
pignons.
-^ St. Vincent ^cold). — R6moulade sauce, flavoured with
well-reduced white wine (chablis).
— Stragotte. — A rich game sauce, reduced with tomato
pulp and Madeira wine, flavoured with vegetable
mirepoix, shallots, cloves, and mace, and strained ;
generally served with Italian dishes,
136 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY.
Sauce Su^doise (Swedish). — A white sauce, highly flavoured,
with grated horseradish and chilli vinegar ; served hot.
— Su^doise (cold). — Mayonnaise sauce, blended with
French mustard and grated horseradish.
— Sultane. — Demi-glace sauce, enriched with game es-
sence (fumet) and port-wine, mixed with small
sultanas.
— SuprSme.^ — A rich white sauce, made with chicken
stock and white roux, enriched with egg-yolks, cream,
and fresh butter ; a garniture of sliced truffles and
mushrooms is sometimes added.
— Tartare. — Mayonnaise mixed with French mustard,
finely chopped chives, spring onions, tarragon and
chervil leaves, gherkins, capers, and parsley ; served
cold.
— Texienne (Texas). — A mild curry sauce with a little
saffron, chopped parsley, lemon juice, finished with
fresh butter.
— Tomate (Tomato). — Fresh tomatoes, cooked with mire-
poix, white wine, and veal stock, thickened with
white roux, seasoned and strained ; or puree of
tomatoes, mixed with a little brown sauce and meat
glaze, flavoured with aromatic herbs and shallots,
seasoned with salt and sugar.
— Tortue (Turtle). — A brown sauce, made from turtle
stock, with finely chopped shallots, flavoured with
anchovy essence, lemon juice, sherry, and finely
chopped lemon rind ; seasoned with salt and cayenne
pepper ; strained.
— Toulouse. — AUemande or veloute sauce, flavoured with
truffle and mushroom essence.
— Tournedos. — Rich beef stock, reduced with white wine
and tomato puree, mixed with blended shallots,
capers, and chopped champignons.
— Trianon (cold). — Mayonnaise sauce, blended with
tomato pulp and soubise pur6e, tarragon flavodr,
mixed with finely cut gherkin and pimiento strips.
— TyroHenne (cold). — Mayonnaise sauce, blended with
tomato puree.
— Tyrollenne (hot).— HoUandaise sauce, blended with
tomato purfie.
— Unlverselle (Universal). — A highly spiced cold sauce,
for cold meats, etc. , prepared with mushroom ketchup,
port wine, shallot vinegar, ground spice, mace,
cayenne pepper, and anchovy essence.
— Valolse. — Finely chopped shallots, reduced in white
wine, mixed with meat extract, egg-yolks, chopped
parsley, cream, and butter ; whisked in bain-marie ;
treated as ^earnaise,
SAUCES. 137
Sauce Velout6 (Foundation Sauce).— A rich white sauce,
prepared with chicken or veal stock, flavoured witli
savoury herbs, vegetable mirepoix, and white roux.
When finished it should be as smooth as velvet :
hence its name veloute (velvet-like).
— Vfinltienne (Venetian). — A white fish sauce, thickened
with egg-yolks and butter or cream, mixed with
chopped parsley, flavoured with lemon juice, and
garnished with small button mushrooms.
— - Verjus. — Espagnole sauce with mashed, unripe green
grapes, cooked in stock, reduced with sherry and
finished with fresh butter ; served with roast duck
or pork.
— Vernet. — Bechamel sauce with finely chopped herbs,
tarragon, and chervil, also shredded gherkin,
truffle, and champignons.
— V§ron. — B^arnaise sauce, blended with veloute and
anchovy essence.
— Verte. — Green herb sauce (same as " Verte-pr6 " ).
— Verte-pr6 (Green Herb). — Composed of puree of cooked
spinach, blanched parsley, chives, and tarragon, ,
worked up with whipped cream or butter, and mixed
with ravigote sauce.
— Victoria. — Supreme sauce, enriched with lobster butter
and champignon essence.
— Viennoise. — Poivrade (pepper sauce), blended with
lemon and orange juice, reduced and finished with
cream.
— Villageolse. — AUemande or veloute sauce, enriched with
meat glaze or chicken essence.
— Villeroi.— Veloute or b6chamel, with finely chopped
cooked ham and tongue, enriched with egg-yolks and
fresh butter.
— Vinaigrette. — Composed of salad oil, vinegar, chopped
shallots, parsley, chervil, and gherkins, seasoned with
pepper and salt ; served cold with calf's head, seakale,
asparagus, etc.
— Vln-blauc. — Bechamel or veloute, flavpured with
white wine, lemon juice, and fish essence.
— Vincent. — Mayonnaise mixed with green herb puree
(tarragon, chervil, chives, and parsley).
— Vin-rouge (claret sauce). — Red wine, reduced in
mirepoix, thickened with espagnole sauce, flavoured
with anchovy essence.
— York, d' (Yorkshire). — Demi-glace sauce, fine shreds of
orange rind, red currant jelly, port wine, orange
juice, and a little ground cinnamon ; served with
Spiled ham, roast or pickled pork.
138 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY.
Sauce Yorkshire. — Orange shreds, reduced in port wine'
and orange juice, thickened with espagnole, seasoned
with cinnamon and cayenne.
— '■ Zingara. — Espagnole or demi-glace or game sauce,
blended with tomato puree, mixed witji finely
shredded truffle and smoked ox-tongue.
— Zouave. — Demi-glace with tomato sauce,- blended,
reduced with chilli vinegar, flavoured with garlic,
tarragon, and mustard.
PART VI.
GARNITURES.
Principal Garnitures chiefly suitable for Removes
(Relevds), certain Fish Entries, as well as Joints of Meat
and Poultry.
Oarnitures — Garnishings.
Garniture d r Alexandra (for Poultry). — Artichoke bottoms
cut into quarters and sliced truffles ; supreme sauce.
— d I'Alsacienne (for Meat). — ^Braised spring cabbage,
fondante potatoes ; demi-glace sauce.
— 4 I'Amiral (for Fish). — Mussels, shrimps, and crayfish ;
matelotte sauce.
— d KAndalouse (for Meat or Poultry). — Braised iDutton
onions, stuffed tomatoes, and risol6e potatoes ; rich
gravy.
— & l'ArI6sienne (for Meat or Poultry). — Aubergines,
tomatoes, and onion rings ; tomato and demi-glace
sauce, blended.
— k l'Ath6nlenne (for Meat or Poultry). — Stufied auber-
gines ; Madeira sauce.
— d la Banquiire (for Entries). — Larks, stufifed with
truffle, and small quenelles ; perigueux or truffle sauce.
— i la Bayard (for Poultry), — .Truffles, mushroom heads,
slices of foie-gras, and artichoke bottoms ; Madeira
sauce.
— d la Beatrice (for Meat or Poultry). — Morrels, or c&pes,
young carrots, quarters of artichoke bottoms, new
kidney potatoes.
— a la Belle- H«l§ne (for Fillets of Beef, etc.).— Small
croquettes of asparagus points and sliced truffles ; rich
gravy or demi-glace.
— & la Bohdmienne (for Meat). — Stoned olives, mush-
rooms, button onions, and small kidney potatoes ;
poivrade sauce,
GARNITURES. 139
Garniture A, la Bontoux (for Meat or Poultry). — Macaroni
croquettes ; Madeira sauce.
— ^ la Boulangdre (for Meat). — Kidney potatoes balced
with fried onions ; demi-glace sauce.
— a la Bouqueti^re (for Meat or Poultry). — Artichoke
bottoms grilled, asparagus tips, with groups of
green peas, French beans, young carrots, turnips,
and cauliflower buds ; demi-glace sauce.
— ^ la Bourgeoise (for Meat). — Young carrots, turnips,
button onions, kidney potatoes ; demi-glace sauce.
— 4 la Bourguignonne (for Meat or Poultry).^Braised
and glazed button onions, mushroom heads, and
rolled lean bacon, grilled brown ; Burgundy wine sauce.
— & la Bretonne (for Meat).— Haricot beans, whole or as
puree, with fine herbs ; demi-glace sauce.
— ^ la Brillat Savarin (for Meat or Poultry). — Duchesse
potato croustades, filled with tomato puree, sliced
trufHes, and sliced artichoke bottoms
^ ^ la Bristol (for Meat). — Savoury rice croquettes, or
risotto timbales, flageolets, and Parisian potatoes ;
demi-glace sauce.
— ^ la Bruxelloise (for boiled or braised Meat). — ^Brussels
sprouts, and braised chicory or endive, olive-shaped
boiled potatoes ; gravy.
— d la CambacSres (for Meat or Poultry). — Truffles, mush-
rooms, and turned olives ; Madeira sauce
— & la Cameranl (for Meat). — Braised sauerkraut (chou-
croute) and rolled bacon, grilled ; Madeira sauce, with
chopped trufiles.
— i, la, Cancale or Cancalaise (for Fish). ^Oysters and
shrimps, or prawns ; Normande sauce.
— ^ la Canova (for Meat or Poultry). — Slices of foie-gras
(escalopes), cocks' kernels, and truffles ; demi-glace.
— d la Cardinal (for Fish). — Shrimps, prawns, or lobster
dice ; Cardinal sauce.
— d la Chambord (for Fish). — Mushroom or champignon
heads, quenelles, slices of truffle, crayfish tails, soft
roe, and glazed croutons ; sauce Genevoise.
— d la Chatelaine (for Meat or Poultry). — Braised lettuce,
artichoke bottoms filled with chestnut puree and
soubise puree, chateau potatoes ; demi-glace sauce.
— & la Chlpolata (for Meat or Poultry). — Braised chestnuts,
mushroom heads, small button onions, small smoked
sausages, and sliced truffles ; demi-glace sauce.
— 4 la Chlvry (for Fish). — Small oyster bouchees or
patties, mussels tossed in white sauce, and small
potato croquettes ; chivry sauce,
- — d la Choisy (for Beef Fillets). — Braised cabbage lettuce
and chateau potatoes ; demi-glace saiice.
140 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY.
Garniture k la Clamart (for Meat or Poultry). — Artichoke-
bottoms filled with puree of green peas ; rich gravy.
— ^ la Clermont (for Meat). — Small stuffed onions, and
slices of fried artichokes ; demi-glace sauce.
— i la Cumberland (for Pork or Gam6). — Small tartlet
crusts filled with apple pttree ; venison sauce, with
port-wine flavour.
— a la Dartols (for Meat or Poultry). — Duchesse potato
croustades filled with green peas ; madSre sauce.
— k la Dauphlne (for Poultry or Meat). — Dauphine
potatoes, placed in nests made of straw potatoes ;
demi-glace or gravy.
— & la Dieppoise (for Fish). — Mussels, mushrooms, cray-
fish or shrimps ; fish-flavoured veloute sauce.-
— ^ la Don Juan (for Poultry). — Puff paste cases or
bouchees, filled with salpicon of chicken fillets,
truffles, and mushrooms ; demi-glace sauce or gravy.
— i la Dorla (for Fish). — Olive shapes of cucumber,
braised, and tossed in sour cream, also thin rounds
of lemon ; cream sauce.
— 4 la Doria (for Meat or Poultry). — Braised cubes of
cucumber and noisette potatoes ; rich gravy or
demi-glace sauce.
— ^ la Dubarry (for Meat). — Breaded and baked cauli-
flower (au gratin) ; white or brown sauce.
— ^ la Duchesse (for Meat). — With Duchesse potatoes ;
maddre or demi-glace sauce.
— ^ la Favorite (for Meat or Poultry). — Braised lettuce,
artichoke bottoms, small potato timbales and
mushroom heads ; rich gravy.
— d la Fermiere (for Meat). — Young carrots braised,
braised lettuce, and olive-shaped potatoes ; rich gravy.
— ^ la Flamande (for Meat). — Braised cabbage, young
carrots, turnips, marble or egg-shaped potatoes, and
small pork sausages ; demi-glace sauce.
— 4 la Florentine (for Fish or Meat). — Spinach timbales
or savoury semolina ; pastry cassolettes or croquettes ;
veloutfe or demi-glace sauce.
— - Jk la Florian (for Lamb). — ^Braised cabbage lettuce,
olive-shaped baked and'glazed potatoes, glazed button
onions and fondante potatoes ; demi-glace sauce.
— il la Fran^alse (for Meat). — Croustades of rice or
potato filled with vegetable macedoine, with groups
of asparagus points, cauliflower, lettuce ; rich gravy
or madSre sauce.
— ik la Gastronome (for Meat or Poultry). — C6pes tossed
in butter, slices of truffles and fleurons ; rich gravy
or madSre sauce.
GARNITURES. 141
'Garniture i la Gaulolse (for Poultry). — Truffles, mush-
rooms, cocks' kernels, and slices of ham ; demi-glace
with tomato sauce.
— !l la GrSque (for Poultry). — Savoury rice as basis or as
timbales ; tomato sauce.
— ^ la Godard (for Meat or Poultry). — Slices of sweetbread,
small chicken quenelles, cocks' combs, mushroom
heads, and sliced truffle ; madere sauce or demi-glace.
— i la Henri IV. — Artichoke bottoms and noisette
potatoes ; bearnaise sauce.
— ^ la Hongroise (for Meat). — Small cooked cauliflowers,
breaded and baked (au gratin), and fondante pota-
toes ; veal gravy or cream sauce with paprika
flavour.
— k I'Imperiaie (for Meat or Poultry). — Mushroom heads,
cocks' combs and kidneys, trufilies, quenelles ; veloute
sauce.
— k I'Indienne (for Fish or Poultry). — Savoury rice, with
curry flavour ; curry sauce.
— !k I'ltalienne (for Meat). — Artichoke bottoms and
macaroni croquettes ; brown mushroom or tomato
sauce.
— k I'lvolre (for Poultry). — Chicken breasts cut in slices
or scallops, and cocks' combs ; suprSme sauce.
— d la Japonaise (for Meat or Poultry). — Plain tartlet
crusts filled with Japanese crosnes (stacki) blended
with veloute sauce, also potato croquettes ; rich gravy.
— ^ la Jardiniere (for Meat). — Groups of young spring
vegetables or vegetable macedoine ; gravy or demi-
, glace.
— 4 la Joinville (for Fish). — Slices of truffles, and mush-
rooms ; shrimp or lobster sauce.
— a la Judic (for Meat). — Braised lettuces stuffed with
savoury ham farce, also sliced truffles ; demi-glace.
— 4 la Jules Verne (for Meat).— Stuffed kidney potatoes,
baked, and braised turnips ; rich gravy.
— 4 la Jussien (for Meat). — Braised cabbage lettuces and
glazed button onions ; demi-glace sauce.
— 4 la Landron (for Meat or Poultry).' — C6pes or morilles,
aubergines, and Parisian potatoes ; gravy.
— d la Lavaiiere (for Meat). — Artichoke bottoms filled with
asparagus puree ; bordelaise sauce.
— 4 la Lorraine (for Ham or Pork). — Braised red cabbage
or choucroute and potato quenelles ; Albert sauce.
— 4 la LucuIIus (for Poultry). — FiuanciSre, truffles,
sweetbread slices, cocks' combs, and cocks' kernels ;
demirglace sauce.
— 4 la Lyonnaise (for Meat). — Braised stuffed onions and
potato puree ; gravy.
142 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY.
Garniture ^ la Mar^chale (for Poultry). — Chicken quenelles"
truffles, aird champignons ; suprSme sauce.
— i la Marie Louise (for Meat or Poultry). — Paste crou-
stades filled with pea-shaped carrots, turnips, and
green peas ; rich gravy.
— i la lUarigny (for Meat or Poultry). — Croutons or
croustades filled with flageolets beans, also fondante
potatoes ; gravy.
— 4 la Mariniere (for Fish). — ^Mussels, bearded oysters,
and crayfish ; white fish sauce.
— i la Marseillaise (for Fish). — Halves of tomatoes tossed
in butter, flavoured with garlic, and ribbon pota-
toes ; brown fish sauce.
— & la Mascotte (for Meat). — Artichoke bottoms, braised
button onions, and noisette potatoes ; rich gravy.
— 4 la M^dlcis (for Meat). — Paste or bread croustades,
with olive-shaped braised turnips ; tomato sauce.
— d la Mentonnaise (for Meat). — Small vegetable marrows,
stuffed with savoury farce meat, and braised ; also
new kidney potatoes, and artichoke bottoms ; gravy.
— & la Mignon (for Poultry or Meat). — ^Artichoke bottoms
filled with small green peas, chicken quenelles, and
sliced truffles ; demi-glace sauce.
— il la Milanaise (for Meat). — Macaroni, julieime strips
of tongue, and mushrooms ; tomato sauce.
— d la Mirelle (for Meat). — Plain tartlet crusts filled with
saffron flavoured rice, potato croquettes, and toma-
toes ; tomato sauce.
— d la Mirabeau (for Meat). — Stoned olives, anchovy
fillets, and artichoke bottoms ; demi-glace sauce,
with tarragon or chervil flavour.
— ^ la Moderne (for Meat). — Braised cabbage lettuces,
potato croquettes, and chicken quenelles mixed with
chopped tongue ; demi-glace sauce or gravy.
— ^ la Montebello (for Poultry or Meat). — Tartlet crusts
filled with shredded truffles and tongue ; bearnaise
sauce, blended with tomato pulp.
— ^ la Montpsnsier (for Meat). — .\sparagus tips, sliced
truffles, and artichoke bottoms ; demi-glace.
— 'k la NaP-tua (for Fish). — Small puff paste bouchees
filled with salpicon of truffle and crayfish ; nantua
sauce.
— 4 la Napolitaine (for Meat). — Spaghetti mixed with
tomato sauce and Parmesan cheese.
— & la N6inours (for Meat). — Grilled cup mushrooms and
JJuchesse potatoes ; gravy.
— i, la Nl(oise (for Meat). — Grilled or sauteed tomatoes,
French beans, stoned olives, and Parisienne pota-
toes ; gravy.
GARNITURES. 143
Garniture & la Nivernalse (for Poultry or Meat). — Small
braised carrots and button onions ; demi-glace.
— 4 la Normande (for Fish). — Oysters, shrimps, mussels,
mushrooms, fried smelts, and fried and glazed
troutons ; Normaude sauce.
— a la Orientale (for Poultry or Meat). — Savoury rice
timbales and potato croquettes ; tomato sauce.
— a la Portugaise (for Meat). — Small tomatoes stuffed
with duxelle puree, and chclteau potatoes ; tomato
sauce.
— 4 la Proven^ale (for Meat). — Stuffed tomatoes and
fried aubergines, French beans, and new potatoes
ranged in groups ; gravy.
— 4 la Providence (for Poultry or Meat). — Sliced mush-
rooms and truffles, olives and slices of foie-gras ;
Madeira or demi-glace sauce.
— 4 la Rachel (for Meat). — Artichoke bottoms filled with
braised beef marrow, mixed with chopped parsley ;
bordelaise sauce.
— a la Radzlwyl (for Fish). — Soft roe, truffles, mush-
rooms, French gherkins, and crayfish quenelles ;
Genevoise sauce.
— 4 la R6forme (for Meat). — Julienne strips of truffles,
carrots, hard-boiled white of egg and tongue ; gravy
or demi-glace.
— 4 la Regince (for Fish). — Fish quenelles, oysters,
truffles, mushrooms, and soft roe ; Normande sauce.
— 4 la Reg^nce (for Meat or Poultry). — Chicken quen-
elles, truffles, foie-gras, mushrooms, and cocks'
kernels ; allemande sauce.
k la R6naissanee (for Fish or Meat). — Artichoke
bottoms filled with macedoine of . vegetables, also
small cauliflower buds coated with HoUandaise
sauce.
— • i la Riehe (for Meat). — Artichoke bottoms filled with
green peas, and coated with choron sauce, and
decorated with truffles.
— i la Richelieu (for Poultry or Meat). — Braised stuffed
musTirooms, braised cabbage-lettuces, and artichoke
bottoms filled with chicken pur6e, also chdteau
potatoes ; demi-glace.
— a la Romanoff (for Meat). — Stuffed and braised cubes
of cucumbers, and potato croustades filled with
■ salpicon of celeriac and mushrooms ; demi-glace.
— 4 la St.'ffland6 (for Meat). — Baked potatoes filled with
green peas and asparagus points.
— 4 la Sards (for Meat). — Rice croquettes flavoured with
saffron and parmesan cheese, also stuffed tomatoes
or cucumbers ; tomato sauce.
144 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY.
Garniture t la Savoisienne (for Meat). — Braised cucumbers,
noisette potatoes, and artichoke bottoms ; demi-
glace sauce.
— d la Saxonne (for Poultry or Meat). — St'uSed tomatoes
and braised cucumbers ; demi-glace sauce.
— i la Semlllante (for Fish). — Quenelles, carp's roe,
crayfish and mushrooms ; matelotte sauce.
— i la Sorel (for Meat). — Slices of foie-gras and
croiites filled with puree of mushrooms ; madere
sauce.
— ^ la Strasbourgeoise (for Pork or Ham). — Frankfort
sausages, choucroute, or pickled cabbage, and slices
of foie-gras ; demi-glace sauce.
— & la Talleyrand (for Meat). — Spaghetti or macaroni,
with julienne strips of truffles and slices of foie-gras ;
perigueux sauce.
— ^ la Trianon (for Poultry or Meat). — Puree of carrots,
green peas, and potatoes ; demi-glace sauce.
— & la Trouvlllalse (for Fish). — Shrimps or prawns,
and mussels ; lobster or shrimp sauce.
— & la Windsor (for Meat). — Green peas, braised turnips,
and sauteed potatoes ; demi-glace or gravy.
PART VII.
THE ENTREE COURSE.
Dishes following the fish course or preceding the
Remove when such is served, are called entrees ; which,
being translated into English, means " entrance." Hence
the dishes served under this heading are considered by
the epicure as the first "of the essential dishes of a correct
dinner, and rightly so, because there may be dinners
without hors-d'oeuvre, and even without soup, or without
a remove or releve, but there can be no proper dinner
without an entree course.
Entrees are generally defined as " dressed dishes," or
" made dishes." A dish bearing the name " entree " is,
as a general rule, composed of more than one ingredient,
and there should always be a distinction from roast or
boiled meat served with a vegetable or other garnish and
an entree.
When two entries are chosen in a dinner, the first
should be the lighter of the two. All entries should be
made in fancy style, so as to avoid carving ; for entries
THE ENTREE COURSE. 145
snould not be carved or served from the sideboard.
During Lent (mi-cargme) dishes known as fish entrees,
excepting in the case of cold dishes, are allowable as
entrees.
The great secret in entrees in general lies undoubtedly
in the sauces used for their preparation or their accom-
paniment. All sauces should serve the purpose of liquid
seasonings, and as such they must be rich and carefully
prepared.
Compound or long process sauces, foundation sauces
and their offsprings, play a most important part in the
entrees themselves, as well as in their relation to the
dishes which precede and follow them ; their character,
flavour, and colour must, of course, be studied so as to
harmonise with the rest of the dishes selected for the same
meal, more particularly so in the case of Dinner Entrees.
Special Light Entries, including several
New Vegetable Entrees.
Biscuits glacis i, la tomate (Cold). — A delicately prepared
tomato puree, enriched with cream and paprika
seasoning, frozen in brick shape, then sliced and
placed on thin oblong wafer biscuits ; decorated with
whipped cream and parsley sprigs.
BQches de tomates i, la Rossini (Cold). — Leaf or heart
shaped tartlet crusts, filled With halves of tomatoes
containing foie-gras puree, flavoured with tomato
pulp and aspic ; garnished with truffles and pimientos,
also small salad.
Cliartreuse de jambon 4 la Clamart. — Small timbale moulds
lined with heart-shaped slices of cooked ham and a
layer of chicken souffle mixture, centre filled with
green pea puree, and covered with chicken farce ;
steamed and served with tomato sauce.
— de legumes h la Qulrinal (Cold). — Cold vegetable
chartreuse, octagon shape, outside decorated with
chopped hard-boiled white of egg, egg-yolk, trufiies
and parsley, four distinct sections ; interior filled
with cooked asparagus tips, French beans, artichoke
■bottoms, kidney potatoes, chopped truffles, etc., all
blended with mayonnaise and aspic to set
Cdtelettes de volaille k I'Ecarlate. — Small cutlets made of
chicken farce, and poached, placed on cutlet-shaped ■
slices of ox-tongues, and served on similarly shaped
fried bread croutons ; garnished with mushroom
heads ; demi-glace sauce.
146 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY.
Crepinettes de toie-gras i la Princesse. — Salpicon of braised
foie-gras, truffle, ham, etc., made up -in oblong
shapes, wrapped in pig's cawl, and fried in butter ;
garnished with small green asparagus (sprue) ; demi-
glace sauce.
Darioles de rls d'Agneau h la St. Germain (Cold). — Dariole
or timbale shapes, lined with green pea puree, and
filled with salpicon of lamb's bread, truffles, mush-
rooms, and veloute sauce, covered with pea, puree,
^and poached or steamed, then set in aspic coated
moulds.
— de Jambon & la Bayonne (Cold). — The same as
" Chartreuse de Jambon k la Clamart," but prepared
cold and set in aspic jelly.
— d'oeufs ^ la Cr6cy. — Bouche cups or dariole moulds,
lined with thin slices of carrot, filled with carrot
puree and savoury custard, and poached or steamed ;
tomato sauce.
Feuilles de laltues aux Crevettes (Cold)^ — Salpicon
composed of pickled shrimps, vegetable macedoine,
mayonnaise and aspic, shaped in balls, and placed
on round lettuce leaves, coated with mayonnaise
aspic, and garnished with beetroot and cucumber.
Frlandlnes de ris d'Agneau. — Round puflf-paste pasties,
filled with a rich salpicon of lamb's bread, tongue,
and truffle, served with tomato sauce mixed with
chopped gherkins.
Matelotte do cervelles de veau. — Brown fricassee of
calf's brains, dressed in rice cassolettes or croutes
of rice.
CEufs pangulne 4 la Carola (Cold). — Hard-boiled penguin
eggs, cut up and mixed with rice, lobster, bechamel,
curry sauce, and mayonnaise ; dressed as mayonnaise,
with sliced eggs on top ; garnished with pimiento,
lobster, and lemon slices.
Ris d'Agneau t la MIrabeau. — Lamb's breads braised
white and cut in rounds (m6dallions), masked with
white chaudfroid sauce, and placed on tartlet crusts
filled with lamb's bread pur6e mixed with tongue ;
garnished with truffle and pimiento slices.
Tlmbales or Darioles t la Gaulolse (Cold).— Small aspic
lined timbales or other shapes of green pea pur6e,
mixed with chopped ham, mayonnaise, cream and
aspic.
— do tomates aux noix (Cold). — Tomato flavoured and
coloured aspic coated timbales, filled alternately
with walnut pur6e and sliced tomatoes ; garnished
with julienne of salad plant.
LIGHT ENTRIES. 147
Entrees Legirs, etc.
I Light Entries and Hot Side Dishes.
A number of these dishes are also suitable as buffet
or supper dishes for balls and receptions, and can be
served cold.
Seignets, etc.
Beignets fie Cervelle de Veau (Calf's brain fritters.)—
Boiled brain pieces dipped in batter and fried in
deep fat.
— de Pied de Veau (Calf's Foot Fritters). — Cooked calf's
foot cut in strips, marinaded, coated with batter, and
fried in deep fat.
— de Rls de Veau (Sweetbread Fritters). — Slices of cooked
or blanched sweetbread, egged and crumbed or
dipped in batter, and fried in fat.
— de VoIalUe (Chicken Fritters). — Small joints of chicken,
boned, marinaded, coated with batter, and fried in
deep fat.
Boudins or Boudinades.
These are, as a rule, small oblong, cylindrical, spherical,
or border shapes of souffle-like mixtures (farce) of fish,
meat, poultry or game, steamed or poached, and served
with a suitable sauce.
Boudins de Volaille t, la Reine. — Small cylindrical shapes
of chicken farce, poached, and served with supreme
sauce.
— • de Volaille blanc. — White chicken boudins, centre filled
with chicken salpicon, and served with white sauce.
— de Gibier & la P^rigueux. — Small oblong or oval
shapes of game farce mixed with chopped truffle,
steamed, and served with a rich truffle sauce.
— de Liivre k la Richelieu. — Boudins of hare farce with
truffle salpicon in centre, steamed in oven, and served
with rich truffle sauce.
— de Sanglier. — Wild boar boudins, poached, and served
with bigarade sauce.
— de Veau. — Boudins of veal, poached or steamed in
oven, served with cream or veloute sauce.
Bouch^es or Petites Boiichtles.
Bouchees are, unless otherwise stated, small puff-paste
cases filled with certain savoury preparations of either
fish, meat, poultry or game.
Bouchdes d, I'Astrachan. — Very small pufi-paste cases or
patties filled witji coarse-grain seas oned best Russian
caviare.
148 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY.
Bouchdes de Gibier. — Game patties.
— de Homard. — Lobster patties.
— aux Huitres. — Oyster patties.
— de Jambon. — Ham patties.
— d la Mod^rne. — Small bouclie cups lined thinly with
potato puree, and filled with chicken salpicon.
— i la Montglas. — Puff-paste patty cases filled with
chicken fillets, sweetbread, mushrooms and truffles
cut in dice, and moistened with white sauce.
— & la Prlncesse. — Puff-paste cases filled with minced
ortolan fillets and truffles (brown sauce).
— 4 la Relne.— Puff-paste cases filled with minced chicken
fillets, ham or tongue, mushrooms and truffles (white
sauce).
— k la Toulouse. — Puff-paste cases filled with veal
fillets, chicken, cocks' combs, mushrooms and truffles
cut in dice (white sauce).
— de Volatile. — Chicken patties, being puff-paste cases
filled with chicken puree or ragout.
Petltes Bouch6es t la Su6doise. — Pastry crusts, or patties
of puff paste, filled with ragout of sweetbread,
lobster, crayfish tails, and broiled bacon, top of
bouchees sprinkled with grated cheese, breadcrumbs,
and lobster butter, and browned in oven.
Cannelons.
Cannelons are small rolls of puff-paste filled with a
savoury mince of game, poultry, meats, etc. They are
either egged and baked in the oven, or egged and rolled
in crushed vermicelli or breadcrumbs, and fried in clarified
butter or dripping
Cannelons k la purie de champignons. — Cannelons filled
with mushroom purfee.
— a la pur£e de gibier. — Cannelons filled with game puree.
— aux saucisses. — Sausage meat cannelons.
— sk la pur6e de truDes. — Cannelons filled with
truffle puree
— sk la purie de Volaille. — Cannelons filled with chicken
farce.
Cassolettes.
These, like croustades, are small thin crusted, oval,
round or other suitable shapes, hollowed out to receive
any desired mixture, savoury, fish, meat, poultry or game,
vegetable purde, salpicons, etc.
Cassolettes are made from potato puree, semolina,
cornflour, rice or riceflour, etc., all of which are previously
LIGHT ENTRIES. 149
cooked in thick pur6e or pulp form, shaped to the
desired sizes when cold, and subsequently egged, crumbed,
and fried in deep fat. The fat must be very hot to
ensure the crust being crisp. Silver-plated and earthen-
ware porcelain fireproof cassolettes have also lately
been introduced, and are most useful for this purpose.
Cassolettes d'isslny. — Small cake or cork shapes of fresh
butter, twice egged and crumbed, fried in deep fat,
carefully drained and cut open to allow the liquid
butter to run out, when they are filled with the desired
mixtures ^
— a la Piequart. — Semolina or rice cassolettes filled with
salpicon of tongue, ham, calf's brain, bechamel, and
truffle.
^ a la Suzanne.— Potato or duchesse cassolette shapes,
filled with minced chicken fillets, asparagus points,
supreme sauce, and round of truffle on top of each.
(For other varieties see " Croustades" and " Bouchees,"
which can be adopted.)
— de Jambon. — Small ham souffles (dariole-shaped).
Vol-au-Vent,
The name " vol-au-vent " is given to a large light
puff-paste crust made oval or round in shape, the Interior
of which is filled with delicately flavoured ragouts of fish,
lobster, oyster, etc., meat, veal, rabbit, and sweetbread
or chicken. This dish is always served hot. For other
fillings -safi Bouch£es.
Vol-au-Vent & la Chambord. — Small fish quenelles,
mushrooms, and truffles heated up in veloute sauce,
and filled into vol-au-vent cases.
— i la Duchesse. — Boned boiled fowl, cut up small, with
mushrooms and truffles, heated in supreme sauce, and
filled into vol-au-vent cases.
— ^ la Financiere. — A brown stew of sweetbread, truffles,
cocks' combs, kernels, small chicken quenelles,
mushrooms, and stoned olives, dressed in vol-au-vent.
— & la Toulouse. — A white stew of small chicken quenelles,
truffles, mushrooms, and veal fillets, dressed in vol-
au-vent
Coguilles, etc.
Coqiiilles are scallop shells, filled with coarsely-minced
meats, etc., baked in the oven to brown the surface.
C!oquUIes de Volaille truffle. — Chicken fillets minced and
mixed with truffle and white sauce, baked in shells.
— de Champignons. — Mushroom and white sauce baked
in shells.
ISO PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY.
CoqulUes de Cervelle de Veau.—Calf s brain and white
sauce baked in shells.
— de Perdreail. — Partridge fillets baked in shells.
— de poulet ^ la Cardinal. — Minced chicken and crayfish
tails baked in shells.
— de Ris de Veau. — Sweetbread salpicon, breaded, and
baked in shells.
— de Truffes. — Sliced truffles, with brown sauce, baked
in shells.
Croustades or Cassolettes.
Croustades are oval or spherical shapes of baked or
fried paste, bread, rice or potato crusts, which are filled
with minced or delicate ragouts of'meat or game.
Cassolettes 4 la Montglas. — Comucopian shapes of puS-
paste, baked and filled with braised lambs' breads,
cut in dice, mushrooms, and truffles, with allemande
sauce.
CroQstades aux huitres. — Oyster croustade filled with
poached oysters, mushroom heads, sliced truffles, and
velout6 sauce.
— de glbier t la Vatel. (Game Croustade, Vatel style). —
Stewed fillets of game, richly flavoured with chopped
truffles and mushrooms, served in fried bread
croustades.
— & I'lmpiriale. — Baked rice croustade filled with a
ragout of chicken fillets, foie-gras, mushrooms, and
truffles (supreme sauce).
— de Macaroni. — ^Macaroni croustade filled with cooked
macaroni, ham cut in dice, cheese and tomato sauce.
— de volallles k la P^rigueux (Chicken Croustade, Perigord
style). — Stewed fillets of chicken with truffles and
brown sauce, baked in paste crust cases.
— 4 la PSrlgourdine. — Fried rice croustade filled with
' small game quenelles, slices of sweetbread, cocks'
combs, kernels, and truffles ; sauce mad^e.
— 4 la Richelieu. — Baked paste croflstade filled with
small chicken quenelles, poached and fried, mush-
room's, and truffle sauce.
— de Venalson (Venison Croustade). — Finely cut or
minced fillet of venison, moistened with brown sauce
and baked in paste crust cases.
Crepinettes and J ndouillettes.
Crepinettes- are small square-shaped meat mixtures,
wrapped in pig's caul, egged, crumbed, and fried in
clarified butter or dripping.
Andouillettes are made similarly to crepinettes, but,
LIGHT ENTRIES. 151
in place of being crumbed and fried, are braised in butter
and served in paper cases
Creplnettes de Volaille truffle. — Chicken and truffle
crepinettes.
— de Falsan.— Pheasant crepinettes.
— de Llevre. — Hare crepinettes.
— de Levraut. — Wild rabbit crepinettes.
— de Perdreau truffle.— Partridge and truffle crepinettes.
— de Pluvler. — Plover crepinettes.
Andouillettes de Gibler. — Game andouillettes.
— i la Romaine. — Minced chicken, mushroom, truffle,
cheese, and meat glaze, made into salpicon, shaped
oval, wrapped in caul, and braised ; served with
truffle sauce.
Cromesqui.i — jKromeskis.
Cromesquis or kromeskis are small rolls of savoury-
preparations called . salpicon, which are rolled in thin
slices of bacon, dipped in frying batter, and fried in hot
lard or other fat ; garnished with fried parsley.
Cromesquis au Jambon. — Little rolls or cork shapes of
minced ham, mushroom, and truffle, made up in
salpicon with madSre sauce, rolled up in bacon,
dipped in batter, and fried in deep fat.
— d'^crevisses. — Crayfish kromeskis.
— de gibier. — Game kromeskis.
— de homard. — Lobster kromeskis.
— aux huitres. — Oyster kromeskis
— de pied de pore. — ^Pig's feet kromeskis.
— de pluvier. — Plover kromeskis.
— & la Russe (Russian Kromeskis). — These consist of
minced chicken, ham or tongue, truffles, and
mushrooms.
— de volaille. — Chicken kromeskis.
Croquettes,
Croquette is the name given to oval, round, ball, cutlet,
or cork shapes of minced meats, fish, poultry or game.
These shapes are egged, crumbed, and fried in clarified
butter or dripping.
Croquettes de volaille. — Chicken croquettes.
— de fole-gras.^Goose liver croquettes.
— de gibler aux truffes. — Game croquettes with truffles.
— de perdreau. — Partridge croquettes.
152 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY
Croquettes de riz au salpieon. — Cooked rice and minced
chicken, ham, etc., made into croquettes and fried.
— de Rognons de Veau. — Calf's kidney croquettes.
— de Veau. — Veal croquettes.
Friandines.
These are made of puff-paste, rolled out thinly with
a 2-inch fluted round cutter ; a portion of prepared mince
or salpieon of meat or game, etc., is placed in the centre
of each round ; this is covered with a round of paste,
egged, dipped in crushed vermicelli, and fried in clarified
butter, lard or dripping.
Friandines de volallle. — Chicken friandines.
— de fole-gras. — Goose liver friandines.
— de glbler. — Game friandines.
— de homard. — Lobster friandines.
— aux huitres. — Oyster friandines.
— de poisson. — Fish friandines.
— de rls de veau. — Sweetbread friandines.
Friture d'huitres (Fried Oysters). — Poached oysters,
bearded and drained, dipped in batter, fried in boiling
lard, and served with fried parsley.
Petites Caisses.
Caisses are small round or oval-shaped pastry crust,
paper, china or silver cases. These are filled with certain
savoury mixtures.
Petites caisses de Ris de Veau. — Braised sweetbread in cases.
— de Champignons (arcis. — Stuffed mushrooms in cases.
— de Fole-gras aux trufles. — Goose liver truffled in cases.
— ^ la Henri IV. — Chicken souifl6 mixture baked in cases.
with mushroom head on top of each.
— de Moelle. — Braised marrow fat in cases.
— PStis aux Huttres. — Small oyster patties.
— aux Alouettes. — Small lark patties.
— aax Cailles. — Small quail patties.
— t la, Joinville. — Small patties filled with lobster,
chicken, and trufile.
Petits Pains or Souffles.
Pains or darioles are made \vith certain kinds of prepara-
tion forcemeat, which are placed in suitable small buttered
moulds, and poached in the oven ; usually served with
rich white or brown sauces. Pains are made in plain and
darioles in fluted moulds,
LIGHT ENTR&ES 153
Petlts Pains de Cailles. — Small souffle darioles with quail
farced with forcemeat ; served with truffle sauce.
— de Foie-gras. — Small goose liver and truffle timbales ;
served with madere sauce.
— de Jambon. — Small ham souffles (dariole shaped).
— SoufQis de Poisson en caisses. — Small fish souffles
baked in china or paper cases.
— de Volaille i la Cr§me. — Chicken cream souffles baked
in china or paper cases.
Pilau or Pillaw i I'lndienne. — Braised, boned, and stuffed
fowl, cut into small slices, dressed with minced fried
onions, mangoes, on small rice shapes ; curry sauce.
Pilau h la Turque. — Minced chicken and ham with savoury
rice, seasoned with savoury herbs and sherry wine.
JRissoles.
These are small half-moon shapes of short crust or
pufiE-paste, filled with prepared minced fish, meat or game,
egged, crumbed, and fried in clarified butter, dripping or
lard ; they are garnished with fresh or fried parsley.
Rissoles d, la Russe (Russian Rissoles). — Filling : salpicon
of minced chicken, tongue, ham, and mushrooms.
— ^ ia Moelle de Bceuf. — Rissoles of beef marrow.
— de B6casse aux truffes. — Snipe rissoles with truffles.
— d la Chasseur. — Venison or other game meat rissoles.
— de Foie-gras.— Goose liver rissoles.
— de Gibier.^Game rissoles.
— a ia Hollandaise. — Oyster and truffle rissoles.
— de Homard. — ^Lobster rissoles.
— aux Huttres. — Oyster rissoles.
— de Rls de Veau. — Sweetbread rissoles.
— de Volaille i i'lndienne. — Curried fowl rissoles.
Ravioles — Ravioli.
Ravioies t ia Napoiitaine (Neapolitan Ravioles). — These
are very small round flat patties made of nouille paste,
and filled with a mixture of grated parmesan cheese,
yolks of eggs, and cayenne, poached in stock or baked
in the oven, and served with tomato sauce.
MOUSSES AND SOUFFLES.
(See also Cold Entree Section.)
A souffle or mousse usually consists of a very light souffle
mixture, and is prepared to be served either hot or cold.
Ham mousse, as a rule, is made with pounded cooked or
154 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY.
raw ham, with panada cream, eggs, and seasoning. As>^
aspic cream is incorporated in the case of cold mouss
There are also other and more modern styles of preparing
mousse, as indicated by the new formulas. " Mousselines "
is applied to smaller shapes or single portion shapes of
mousse. Souffle or souffles are also adapted for dishes of
this character.
Mousse k la Brandimbourg (cold). — York ham, boiled and
braised, top half cut off and cut partly in slices,
glazed with aspic ; other part pounded with foie-gras
and made into mousse ; then refilled with sliced ham
and mousse mixture (cold), surface coated with
chaudfroid sauce and decorated with'trufHe and white
of egg squares to resemble a chessboard.
— i la Carmen. — A light ham souffle, centre filled with
a salpicon of artichoke bottom, champigncm, and
supreme sauce. Pimiento or paprika sauce.
— i la Clamart. — Souffle of ham, made &om raw ham,
pounded with bechamel, cream, and egg whites and
seasoning ; moulded witii centre filled with green pea
puree, and poached or steamed ; sauce supreme.
— de Jambon en surprise. — Boiled or braised York
ham (whole), centre part cut out when cold, and
refilled with hot or cold ham mousse ; served with
reform sauce when hot, or with Cumberland sauce
when served cold.
— & la P^rlgourdin. — Mousse of ham, mixed with sliced
truffles ; served hot with perigord sauce
Mousselines de Jambon k I'Alexandra. — Quenelles of ham,
decorated with slices of truffles, poached ; garnished
with asparagus tips tossed in butter ; served with
cheese-fiavoured allemande sauce.
— i la Florentine. — Dariole or timbale shapes of ham
mousse, ranged on a border or bed of spinach ;
demi-glace sauce.
— A, la HongFoise. — Ham quenelles, seasoned with
paprika, sauced over with hongroise sauce ; garniture
of cauliflower cassolettes.
Souflli de Jambon & la Gastronome. — Souffle of ham,
mixed with c6pes, morelles or sliced large mush-
rooms ; steamed, covered with cliopped truffles, with
a wliole truffle on top ; sauce madlre.
— h. la Mllanalse. — Ham souffl6, centre filled with
salpicon of cooked macaroni, cubes of ham, tongue,
truffles, and champignons ; garnished with cheese-
flavoured macaroni cut short ; sauce tomato.
Souffles de langue en cocotte. — Baked ox-tongue souffles,
filled in cocotte pans, with salpicon of cooked sweet-
bread, asparagus tips, and peas in centre.
LIGHT ENTlijEES. 155
Timbales and Darioles.
The wofd timbale means a cup, bowl or beaker,
but in cookery it is applied to certain kinds of light fish,
meat or game soufSes, cooked in cup, or timbale-shaped
moulds, either baked or poached. The moulds are
frequently lined with a thin paste, nouille or short crust
or with cooked macaroni.
Timbale k la Eadoise.— Paste-lined timbale shape filled
with ragout of sweetbread, truffles, champignons, and
nouille paste.
— de Cailles. — Quail timbale.
— ^ la Cond6. — Similar to "Badoise timbale,'' but omit-
ting the nouille paste ; served hot with mad&e sauce.
— il la Clissy. — Chicken farce-lined timbale, with layers
of foie-gras, tongue, mushrooms, and truffles,
moistened with madere sauce ; may also be made
with paste crust lining and filled as above.
— ^ la Diane. — Timbale mould lined with game farce,
and filled with small game quenelles, truffles, cham-
pignons and game fillets ; garnished also with latter,
and served with sauce Diane. ^
— de Gibier. — Game timbale.
— h 1 'Imp^ratrlce (cold). — Aspic-lined mould, decorated
with truffle, etc., filled with foie-gras and chicken
mousse, fortified with aspic jelly ; served with cold
cucumber sauce.
— i la Mirabeau. — Dome-shaped timbale mould, lined with
halves of stuffed olives, coated with a layer of duck
farce, filled with fillets of duck, champignons, and
truffles ; served with mirabeau sauce.
— d la D 'Orsay. — Timbale mould lined with nouille
paste, and filled with white chicken ragout,, sliced
artichoke bottoms, truffles, and champignons ; served
with supreme sauce richly seasoned with paprika.
— de Perdreau. — Partridge timbale.
— d la Relne (cold). — Chicken mousse timbale, hot or
cold ; in latter case mould is lined with aspic, and
decorated with truffles and pimiento, etc., then
masked with white chaudfroid sauce and filled with
light chicken mousse.
— & la St. Estephe. — Chicken forcemeat and ox-tongue
timbales with claret sauce.
— d la Talleyrand. — Dome-shaped timbale mould closely
lined with cooked macaroni, and filled with tomato
and macaroni stew ; served with supreme sauce.
— d la Toulouse (cold).- — Timbale mould lined with aspic
and decorated, filled with evenly cut salpicon of
chicken and sweetbrfiad, mixed with aspic cream, etc.
156 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY.
MEAT ENTREES.
Boeuf—Beef.
Cervelle de Boeut (Ox-Brains) en Matelote. — Stewed ox-
brain in red wine sauce with braised button onions.
— Irlte (Fried). — Blanched, cut into pieces, egged and
crumbed, or dipped in frying batter and fried.
— au gratin (Baked). — Blanched, placed in a buttered
di^, sauced over, breaded, and baked in the oven.
ChSteaubriand. — Double fillet, cut very thick, and
generally boiled or grilled ; usually served with
chateau potatoes.
— & la B6arnaise. — Basted with sweet oil and broiled ;
served with b^arnaise sauce.
— ^ la Chlpolata. — Grilled ; garnished with braised
chestnuts, fried pieces of sausages, and mushroom
heads ; tomato sauce.
— A la Cldrln. — Grilled a. point, sliced truffles fried in
butter, and cooked in mad^re sauce ; garnish, pommes
allemande, and rondelles of foie-gras dipped in flour
and fried in butter (grouped).
— 4 la Cordon Rouge. — Basted with oiled butter, seasoned,
sprinkled with finely-chopped ham and fresh bread-
crumbs, and grilled or broiled ; garnished with sliced
trufiBes, brussels sprouts, and small stufEed tomatoes ;
demi-glace sauce. -
— & la Grecque. — Grilled ; garnished with fried egg-plants
(aubergines) ; madere sauce with chopped parsley.
— ^ ia Hotelldre. — Grilled, ; sauced over with supreme
sauce and a few drops of dissolved meat glaze.
— i la Lombardie. — Grilled; garnished with stuffed, baked
tomatoes ; maddre sauce.
— i la Marquise.— Broiled or grilled in butter ; garnished
with artichoke bottoms, filled with small stuffed
lettuce.
— 4 la Marseillaise. — Broiled or grilled ; surrounded with
groups of glazed carrots, button onions, and small
pieces of fried calf's feet ; bordelaise sauce.
— i la Rosny. — Grilled or broiled in butter ; served with
fried slices of cucumber and poivrade sauce.
— 4 la V6ron. — Stuffed from the side with " chopped
blanched beef-marrow and savoury herbs, basted
with sweet oil, and grilled ; served with eschalote sauce.
— 4 la Vert-Pr§. — Grilled fillets, glazed, and round of
green herb butter on top of each ; garnished with
straw potatoes and watercress ; sauce demi-glace.
MEAT ENTRIES (BEEF). 157
Beef Steak or Small Butnp Steak,
Beef Steak t, la Bardoux.— Steaks cut rather thin, dipped
in oiled butter, rolled in a mixture of fresh bread-
crumbs, chopped beef-marrow and parsley, salt and
pepper, fried briskly, and served with brown herb
sauce.
— 4 la Brisse. — Slightly marinaded and broiled ; served
with richly sj)iced tomato sauce, surrounded with
small turnip timbales.
— d la Godard. — Grilled ; garnished with sliced sweet-
breads, mushroom heads, quarters of artichoke
bottom, and truffles ; demi-glace sauce.
— ik la Soyer. — Thickly cut steaks, dipped in oiled butter,
sprinkled with breadcrumbs, iinely chopped chives,
parsley, and seasoning, and broiled ; sauce fines
herbes.
— 4 la Su£doise. — Small steaks cut from rump, seasoned,
and cooked in butter ; dressed with onion, finely cut
and fried, and garnished with saute potatoes,
— 4 la Turinoise. — Grilled ; garnished with small nouilles
timbales ; tomato sauce.
Entrecdtes — Sirloin Steaks.
EntrecSte t la B^arnaise. — Grilled sirloin steak ; served
with bearnaise sauce.
— au beurre d'AncholS. — Grilled; with anchovy butter.
— 4 la Bordelaise (Saut^ed).— -Broiled or grilled, with
beef-marrow and bordelaise sauce.
— & la Maitre d'Hdtel. — Broiled or saut^ed ; with maitre
d'hotel butter.
— ' & la Moelle. — Broiled ; with blanched and grilled slices
of beef-marrow.
— & la Montagu^. — Grilled ; garnished with small stuffed
tomatoes, and artichoke bottoms filled with tossed
mushrooms.
— & la Nicolas.- — Broiled in butter ; dressed in casserole,
with whole trufifles and slices of foie-gras.
— i la Parisienne. — Broiled or grilled ; spread over with
crushed shallot and chopped parsley, lemon-juice and
meat glaze, and garnished with marble-shaped fried
potatoes.
— aux Pommes souRI^es. — With parsley butter, garnished
with puff or soufi[i6 potatoes.
• — & la Rockaway. — Grilled ; served with fried onion rings
and grated horseradish.
Note. — For other kinds of dressing and garnish, see
Fillets and Tournedos.
IS8 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY.
Filets de BoBuf—FiUets of Beef.
{See also Tournedos.)
Note. — Filets mignons, or coeurs de filets de bcenf, are
rather smaller than ordinary fillets, and more closely
trimmed than the former. Faux-filet is the name given to
fillets cut from other parts, such as rump, sirloin or the
rib of beef. All these names are intended to be included
under the above heading, the mode of cooking being
exactly the same as for ordinary fillets.
When no special sauce is quoted, demi-glace or plain
gravy should be poured round the base of the dish.
Filets de Boeuf i rAmbassadrice. — Grilled or broiled
fillets of beef with chicken liver farce, and garnished
with financifire ; sauce maddre.
— & TAmericaine. — Grilled fillets with fried egg- yolk on
top of each, garnished with fried egg-plant; sauce
tomate.
— A I'Andalouse. — Larded and "braised ; garnished with
glazed chestnuts, braised cabbage-lettuces, and
tomatoes.
— ii I'Ath^nienne. — Larded and braised; served with
fried, sliced egg-plants ; madSre sauce.
— au beurre d'Anchois, — Broiled or grilled ; with anchovy
butter.
— d la B^arnalse. — Broiled or grilled ; with bearnaise
sauce on fillets, and demi-glace round them.
— it la Bordelaise. — Grilled or broiled ; with beef-marrow
and bordelaise sauce.
— aux Champignons. — With sliced mushrooms (cham-
pignons) and brown sauce.
— & la Choron. — Broiled or sauteed, with slices of beef-
marrow, small artichoke bottoms filled with asparagus
points as garnish ; sauce choron.
— 4 la Clamart. — Sautfeed or grilled, garnished with
artichoke bottoms filled with green pea pur6e ; sauce
demi-glace.
— 4 la Claremont. — Larded and braised ; served with
braised cucumber and tomatoes, and small stuffed
onions glazed ; bearnaise and demi-glace sauces.
— i la Dauplilne. — Larded and grilled ; garnished with
fried cocks' combs, sliced trufSes ; pferigueux sauce.
— & la Duchesse. — Grilled or broiled fillets, dressed in
duchesse potato border, with chclteaubriand sauce.
— aux fines herbes. — Grilled or broiled ; with brown
savoury herb sauce.
MEAT ENTREES (BEEF). 159
TUets de BoBuf k la Garfield. — Larded and grilled ; served
with finely cut julienne strips of ham, tongue, truffles,
and mushrooms ; poivrade sauce. '
— 4 la Gouffe. — Larded and fried ; garnished with small
beef-marrow toasts ; demi-glace sauce.
— k la Grand Veneur. — ^Marinaded fillets, braised, gar-
nished with French beans ; sauce Moscpvite.
— & la Helder. — Broiled or sauteed fillets with sliced
tomatoes tossed in butter, Parisienne potato balls,
and bearnaise sauce.
— ^ la Jardiniere. — Grilled ; garnished with groups of
spring vegetables.
— ^ la Judic. — Sauteed or grilled fillets with braised
lettuce, and gravy.
— i la Maltre d'H6tel. — Grilled ; with parsley butter.
— au Malaga. — Barded and braised ; dressed with madere
or marsala wine sauce ; garnished with potato
croquets done up in the shape of grapes, with nouille
paste stalks inserted, and fried.
— ^ la Marinade.— Larded and marinaded in vinegar wine
and herbs ; grilled or braised ; poivrade sauce.
— a la Mirabeau. — Broiled ; garnished with fried eggs,
tarragon leaves, and anchovy fillets on fillets of beef ;
group of truffles and champignons around dish ;
madere sauce.
— k la Moscovite. — Larded ; placed in Rhine wine mari-
nade, and braised or sauteed ; served with madere
sauce, and garnished with chopped and rolled
almonds.
— £l. la Nicolas. — Sauteed or grilled fillets, with a slice
of foie-gras and truffles on top ; sauce madere.
— aux Olives farcies. — ^Grilled ; with stuffed olives.
— ^ la Palmeritaine. — Larded and broiled, and garnished
with stuffed aubergines and mashed potatoes.
— i la Parisienne. — Grilled fillets, garnished with aspara-
gus tips and potato balls ; bearnaise sauce and
gravy (jus 116).
— 4 la Polonaise. — Finely chopped lean beef and chopped
suet, seasoned, and shaped like fillets ; egged,
crumbed, and fried in butter ; garnished with small
rounds of fried potatoes ; demi-glace sauce.
— & la Pompadour. — Sauteed or broiled v/ith slices of
tomatoes tossed in butter ; noisette potatoes, and
choron sauce.
-=-4 la Provencal*. — Grilled ; garnished with stuffed
mushrooms and tomatoes ; demi-glace or madere sauce.
— & la Jtossini. — Sauteed or grilled fillets, with slice of
foie-gras and truffle on top of each ; sauce
perigueux
i6o PRACTICAL GASTliONOMV.
Filets de BcBuI 4 la Slcllienne. — Grilled ; served with rings
of fried onion ; sauce madfere.
— 4 la Sigurd. — Larded filletof beef, marinaded in madere,
and braised ; garnished with small potato cassolettes
filled with asparagus-point puree, sauteed artichoke
bottoms cut in dice, chestnut croquettes, and mush-
room heads.
— 4 la St. Jean. — Broiled or sauteed ; garnished with
artichoke bottoms filled with tossed tomato dice, and
covered with b^arnaise, with farced olive on top ;
derai-glace sauce
— aux truffes. — Broiled or grilled ; served with brown
sauce containing sliced truffles.
— ik la Theodora. — Broiled ; dressed on a bed of mush-
room puree, sprinkled with finely chopped herbs,
garnished with olive-shaped fried potatoes and
truffles, sauced over with nut-brown butter and
Worcester sauce.
— ^ la Toreador. — Grilled, rather underdone ; garnished
with sauteed fresh mushrooms and Spanish pimi en tos ;
tomato sauce.
— k\3, Viennoise. — Fillet or other tender lean beef chopped
finely and shaped into small fillets, fried in butter,
garnished with onion puree and fried onion rings ;
brown sauce.
— d la Wellingtoii. — Tossed in butter over a brisk fire,
cooled and wrapped carefully in thinly rolled-out puff-
paste, with a layer of fines herbes spread over the
fillets ; brush over the paste with egg-yolk, and bake
in moderate oven lo to 15 minutes ; dress on potato
puree (socle), garnish with green peas, French beans,
truffles, and potatoes cut in cubes and tossed in
butter.
Tournedos de Bceuf.
(See also Fillets of Beef.)
Unless otherwise stated, all tournedos are to be broiled or
tossed in butter over a fairly quick fire.
Tournedos de Bceuf. — Small fillets of beef, trimmed into
oval shapes, weighing about two ounces. They are
usually dressed on croutons of fried bread.
— & I'Arl6slenne. — Tournedos dressed on croutons
sauced over with demi-glace containing juliennt
strips of celery.
— 4 1' Alexandra. — Larded, braised, and glazed ; dressed
on croutons with slice of truffle on each ; garnished
with quarters of artichokes ; sauce pferigueux.
MEAT ENTRIES (BEEF). i6i
Tournedos de BoeuJ it TArmand.— Grilled ; dressed on
fried bread crouton, covered with foie-gras puree ;
garnished with souffle potatoes and slices of truffles ;
sauce bordelaise,
— braisfis au C616rl.— Larded fillets of beef braised with
celery, and finished in rich brown sauce ; dressed on
croutons in a circle, with braised celery in centre.
— !l la Chasseur.^Slightly marinaded, fried in butter, and
served with chasseur sauce,
— 4 la Colbert. — Fried in equal parts of sweet oil and
butter, dished up in circle, centre of dish fiUfed with
small rounds of fried potatoes; eschalot sauce,
reduced with sherry wine.
— i la Drexel. — Grilled, dressed on fried bread croutons
' coated with bearnaise sauce, border of each fillet
garnished with tomato pur^e, slice of truffle in
centre, and dish surrounded with straw potatoes
(pommes pailles).
— 4 I'Elysie. — Slice of braised sweetbread and mushroom
head on each tournedo, with a, border of bearnaise
sauce.
— d I'Empereur. — Broiled in butter, dressed on fried
bread croutons, with half a grilled tomato and a
sinall piece of grilled marrow on each; garnished,
with asparagus points and noisette potatoes ; sauce ■
perigueux.
— ^ la Favorite. — Grilled, dressed on croutons, with slice
of foie-gras ; garnished with truffles and asparagus
points ; sauce madere.
— d la Gabrielle. — Sauteed, dressed oh rounds of puff
pastry of similar size, covered with light chicken
puree ; garnished with truffles, green peas, and straw
potatqes ; sauces bearnaise and demi-glace.
— & la Grand Hdtel. — Grilled, dressed on croutons of rice
of same size, slices of foie-gras and asparagus points ;
sauce madere.
— jl la Helder. — Broiled in butter, dressed on croutons,
with bearnaise sauce as border of each tournedo, and
tomato puree in centre ; surrounded with noisette
potatoes.
— d la Khedive. — Sauteed tournedos, dressed on slices of
foie-gras of same shape ; garniture, tossed tomatoes in
butter, asparagus pomts, champignon heads ; sauces,
madSre and horseradish cream.
— i la MacMabon. — Grilled, garnislied with slices of
truffles, flageolets, and chateau potatoes ; sauce
madSre.
— d la Menagdre. — Tournedos dressed on a border of
duchess potato (puree), centre filled with braised-
carrots and turnips (olive shape), button onions, and
noisette potatoes ; sauce demi-glace.
i62 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY.
Tournedos de Bceuf i. la Mercid^s. — Coated with artichoke
puree and mushroom heads ; sauce, demi-glace or
madSre.
— ^ la Merldlonale. — Grilled, garnished with sorrel, stuffed
tomatoes, green peas, and cepes ; plain gravy.
— i la Mikado. — Grilled and garnished with half a stuffed
and baked tomato on each tournedo ; sauce madSre.
— i la Mireille. — Tournedos dressed on croutons of
brioche paste ; garnished with asparagus points ;
sauce tomate.
— il la Monaco. — Tournedos dressed on bread croutons
spread with foie-gras farce ; garnished with mush-
room heads and slices of tongue ; demi-glace sauce.
— i la Motmonrency. — Tournedos placed on rice croutons ;
garnished with artichoke bottoms filled with asparagus
points ; plain gravy.
— & la Monte Carlo. — Garnished with slice of foie-gras and
trutSe on top of each, ^nd dish surrounded with fried
slices of sweetbread and fried calf 's brain ; sauce madere.
— ^ la Nelson. — Par-fried tournedos, finished in casserole,
with braised button onions, demi-glace or maddre
sauce, and dice of fried potatoes.
— ik la Nesselrode. — Garnished with chestnut purfee,
potato chips, sauced round with demi-glace.
— ft la NiQOlse. — Sauteed beef fillets dressed on croutons ;
garnished with small French beans and small tossed
tomatoes ; sauce, demi-glace,
— ft I'Orsay. — Tournedos dressed on croutons, garnished
with stoned olives, mushrooms, and chateau potatoes ;
sauce maddre.
— k 1 'Othello. — Poached or fried egg on each tournedo,
with p^rigueux sauce.
— ft la Farlsienne. — Broiled, with a garnish of asparagus
points, noisette potatoes, and bearnaise sauce.
— ft la Pl^montalse. — Tournedos dressed on croutons,
garnished with small timbales of rice mixed with
chopped truffles, with mushroom head on each ;
sauce demi-glace.
— ft la Pompadour. — Tournedos spread with tomato puree,
with a slice of fried ham and a slice of truffle on top
of each ; clear gravy.
— ft la Prince Murat. — Small fillets of beef and slices of
raw foie-gras, of similar size, broiled separately,
dressed together on bread croutons ; garnished with
turned Spanish olives, stuffed with farce de champig-
nons and olive-shaped potatoes baked in butter ;
sauced over with tomato and mad^e blended sauce.
— ft la Qulrlnal.— Tournedos dressed on croutons, spread
with duralle or champignon pur6e ; garnished with
straw potatoes ; sauce madere,
MEAT ENTRIES (BEEF). 163
Tournedos de Bceul 4 la Rachel. — Tournedos dressed on
artichoke bottoms, sauced over with beef-marrow
sauce (moelle).
— ^ la Rlche. — Artichoke bottoms, filled with green peas,
placed on each tournedo, with a slice of truffle on
top ; sauce chorrou.
— sk la Savoisienne, — Braised tournedos done in casserole,
with demi-glace sauce, ' small button onions, cham-
pignons, green peas, and chateau potatoes.
— i la Scribe. — Tournedos dressed on croutons of rice,
spread over with foie-gras puree ; sauce madSre.
— 4 la Strasbourgeoise. — Slice of braised foie-gras and a
slice of smoked sausage on each tournedo ; sauce
maddre.
— d la Thiers. — Par-fried tournedos finished in casserole,
with braised button onions, slices of truffles, stoned
olives, and brown sauce flavoured with sauterne.
— !t la Troja. — Grilled tournedos with anchovy fillet and
slice of truffle on top of each ; when cold enclosed in
brioche paste and baked in a quick oven ; served
with madere sauce, containing finely cut strips of
trufae.
— & la Vallidre. — Sauteed and dressed on croutons, coated
with demi-glace sauce, containing julienne strips of
truffle, mushrooms, and tongue.
— 4 la Victoria. — Grilled tournedos of beef, garnished
with broiled small cup mushrooms, filled with
bearnaise sauce ; served with truffle sauce.
Beignets de Boeut i la Minute. — Cold roast beef cut in
strips, seasoned, dipped in frying batter, and fried
in deep fat.
Boeuf santfi 4 la Bourgeolse. — Coarsely minced broiled
beef with braised button onions ; brown sauce.
— 4 la Flamande. — Braised pieces of rump ' of beef ;
garnished with stuffed spring cabbages ; brown sauce.
Carbonade de boeuf 4 la Flamande. — Thin slices of lean
beef stewed in casserole, in rich brown sauce, with
minced onions, neatly shaped, plain boiled potatoes
placed on top of stew ; served in casserole.
Croquettes de Boeuf i I'Anglalse (Beef Croquettes). —
Finely minced cooked beef, made into square, cork,
cutlet or ball shapes, egged, crumbed, and fried.
— i I'ltallenne. — Fried beef croquettes with Italian sauce.
Culottes de Boeuf, Malntenon.— Braised beef cut in slices
and dressed in pyramids ; garnished with small
timbales of nouilles ; seasoned with soubise and
duchesse potatoes ; sauce demi-glace.
Fricot de Boeuf i la Charles X. — Braised rump steak, when
cold cut into strips ; egged, crumbed, and fried ;
served with a brown eschalot sauce.
l64 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY.
Pricot de Bceuf i I'Indlenne. — Curried beef stew, served
with boiled rice.
— 4 I'Irelandaise. — Stewed beef with potatoes cut in
cubes, and onions ; brown sauce.
Goulasch de Boeuf. — Lean beef cut in dice shapes, and
tossed in butter ; mixed with dice-shaped potatoes ;
seasoned with paprika, and finished in brown sauce.
— d ia Herzigovine. — Saute of beef, sliced finely, and fried
onions ; tomato sauce and elaret flavour ; seasoned
with salt and paprika ; garnished with small rounds
of fried potatoes.
— 4 la Polonaise. — Sliced beef, stewed, with fried bacon
and potato cut in dice ; seasoned with Hungarian red
pepper.
HSchls de Bceuf t la Fran^aise. — Sliced cold beef braised
in butter and finely chopped onions, finished in brown
sauce and chopped parsley.
— & I'Anglalse. — ^Minced or hashed beef with poached
eggs ; garnished with fried bread sippets.
Langue de Bceuf— Ox-tongue.
Langue de Boeuf d, la Flamande. — Braised ox-tongue,
garnished with groups of cooked carrots, turnips,
green peas, French beans, and braised spring cabbage ;
sauced over with brown sauce.
— fum^e aux petlts pels. — Smoked, braised ox-tongue,
with green peas.
— au gratln (Baked Ox-Tongue). — Sliced boiled ox-
tongue dressed on a buttered baking-dish, with a
mixture of brown sauce, breadcrumbs, chopped
shallots, parsley, and mushrooms, yolks of eggs, and
fresh butter, baked in a quick oven, and served on
the dish it is baked in,
— t I 'Indienne. — Curried ox- tongue with boiled rice.
— & la NapoUtalne.i — Braised ox-tongue with stewed
macaroni, tomato pur^e, and parmesan cheese. .
— au Parmesan. — Boiled ox-tongue sliced, arranged on
a gratin dish, with a mixture of white sauce, grated
parmesan cheese, breadcrumbs, chopped shallots, and
fresh butter, baked in a quick oven.
— & la Robert. — Braised ox-tongue with brown onion
sauce.
— ^ la Romalne. — Braised pickled ox-tongue, served with
a sauce composed of espagnole sauce, white wine,
blanched currants, sultanas, Italian pine-seeds
(pignolis), flavoured with chilli vinegar and castor
sugar.
Mlroton de Boeuf. — Sliced cooked beef broiled in butter
and chopped onions, and stewed in brown sauce.
MEAT ENTRIES {BEEF). 165
Moix de Boeaf 4 la Bourgeoise. — Braised piece of kernel
or cushion of beef larded, finished in axichly flavoured
brown sauce witli a little tomato puree, garnished
with braised carrots and button onions.
— ft I'^touflade. — Kernel of beef with brown sauce,
stewed in the oven.
Olives de Boeuf 4 I'Anglaise. — Thin slices of rump steak
spread over with suet stuffing, rolled and braised,
served with richly flavoured brown sauce, chopped
parsley, and thin slices of fried bacon.
Oreilles de Boeuf ft la Sainte-Men^hould. — Boiled pickled
ox-ears, when cold dipped in batter and fried in
deep fat.
Paupiettes de Boeuf ft la Richelieu. — Sliced fillets of beef
spread with forcemeat, rolled and braised ; garnished
with forcemeat quenelles, truffles, mushrooms ;
served with Richelieu sauce.
Palais de Boeuf— Ox-palate.
Palais de Boeuf au gratin. — Braised ox-palates prepared
and baked in gratin style
— grilles. — Pickled ox-palates egged and crumbed, dipped
in oiled butter and grilled, served with a piquant
tomato sauce.
— ft I'lndienne. — Curried ox-palate with boiled rice.
— ft ritalienne. — Stewed ox-palates dished up in a circle
with fried bread croutons ; Italian sauce.
— aux Macaroni. — Braised ox-palates with macaroni.
— ft I'Orly. — Stewed ox-palates; when cold spread with
forcemeat mixed with savoury herbs, rolled, coated
with white sauce, egged, crumbed, and fried ; served
with tomato sauce.
— ft la Ravigote. — Stewed ox-palates dressed in a border
of fried bread,; sauced over with ravigote sauce.
Poltrlne de Bceuf frite ft la Sainte-Men61iouId. — Boned and
braised breast of beef cut into slices, egged, crumbed,
and fried in deep fat.
Queue de Scettf— Ox-tail.
Queue de Boeuf, brais^e aux Olives. — Braised ox-tail with
turned olives and brown sauce.
— aux Haricots Verts. — Stewed ox-tail, garnished with
French beans.
— ft la Hotch-potch. — Hotch-potch ox-tail stew, garnished
with glazed carrots and small onions (a national
Scotch dish).
i66 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY.
Queue de Boeuf aux Pefits Pols. — Stewed ox-tail, with green
peas in centre of dish.
— d la Polonaise. — Braised ox-tail, with rich brown sauce ;
garnished with cauliflower buds, tossed in brown
butter, and besprinkled with brown breadcrumbs.
Haricots de Queue de Boeut. — Stewed ox-tail, with braised
carrots and turnips neatly shaped, small onions,
and white haricot beans.
Veavr—Veal.
Ballotine de Veau farcie. — Stuffed rolled breast of veal,
braised ; served with demi-glace sauce.
Blanquette de Veau t rAlIemande.— Fillet or breast of
veal with sliced mushrooms stewed in white sauce.
— aux concombres. — Stewed veal in white sauce with
cubes of braised cucumber.
— k \ 'Indlenne. — Stewed "veal in white sauce flavoured
with curry ; served in'border of rice.
— k la, Poulette. — Stewed veal with sliced mushrooms in
white sauce with finely chopped parsley-
— aux truffes. — Stewed veal in white sauce with sliced
truffles.
Carr6 de Veau pique aux petits pois. — Neck of veal larded
and braised, with green peas.
— piqu6 t la Creme Aigre. — Braised larded neck of veal
with sour cream sauce (sauce creme aigre).
— la Purte de Tomate.— Braised neck of veal with
tomato sauce.
Cetelettes de Veau or C6tes de (Veal Cutlets).— Cotes or
cutlets of veal should be cut from the neck or loin ;
cutlets, however, should be trimmed with the bone
left on, and in consequence can only be obtained
from the neck. (See also Filets de Veau.)
— 4 TAllemande. — Breaded veal cutlets fried in butter,
dressed round potato puree ; sauce demi-glace.
— k I'Anglaise. — Breaded veal cutlets .grilled ; garnished
with potatoes fried or tossed in butter.
— en Belle-Vue (Cold).— Fillets or cutlets of veal cooked
set in aspic, coated with chaudfroid sauce ; garnished
with truffles and jardinidre.
— 4 la Bordelaise.— Broiled veal cutlets, dished up on
fried bread croutons, with stewed c6pes in centre ;
sauce bordelaise.
— au Chicorte.— Broiled veal cutlets with mashed or
braised chicory.
' ' MEAT ENTRIES (VEAL). 167
CStelettes de Veau A, la Cracovie.^^Broiled veal cutlets,
larded with strips of anchovy fillets ; sauce madfere.
— en Cr^pinettes. — ^Veal cutlets wrapped in pig's caul,
egged, crumbed, and fried ; demi-glace or plain gravy.
— i la Dauphine. — Veal cutlets stuffed with chopped
tongue and truffles ; garnished with potato cro-
quettes ; perigueux sauce.
— i la Demi-glace. — Veal cutlets fried or grilled ; served^
with brown, i.e., demi-glace sauce.
— ^ la Dreux. — Broiled veal cutlets la;rded with tongue,
streaky bacon, and pickled gherkins ; served with
a garniture of sliced mushrooms and sweetbread;
sauce tomate.
— aux Epinards.— Broiled veal cutlets with mashed
spinach.
— 4 I'Ecarlate. — Plain broiled veal cutlets, dressed
alternately with heart-shaoed slices of ox-tongue ;
sauce tomate.
— gr!116es. — Plain grilled veal cutlets.
— h ritalienne. — Plain broiled veal cutlets with Italian
sauce.
— & la Lorgnette. — Egged, crumbed, and fried veal
cutlets ; garnished with rings of onions dipped in
milk and flour, and fried in clarified butter.
— !k la Maitre d'HStel. — Plain broiled veal cutlets served
with ihaitre d'hotel butter.
— • ^ la Marfichal." — Egged and cheese-crumbed veal
cutlets fried ; served with bigarade sauce.
— ^ la Milanaise.^ — Veal cutlets,- garnished with macaxoni,
stewed in tomato sauce and parmesan cheese.
— au naturel. — Plain broiled or grilled veal cutlets.
— pannes. — Breaded and fried veal cutlets.
— en papillotes. — Stuffed veal cutlets braised, served in
paper cases.
— i, la Parjarskl. — Cutlet shapes of minced veal, egged,
crumbed, and fried ; sauces demi-glace and tomate.
— i la Parma. — Veal cutlets egged and crumbed in
grated parmesan cheese, and fried ; tomato or demi-
glace sauce.
— i la Prusse. — Veal cutlets spread with a mixture of
truffles and finely chopped shallots braised.
— & la Beine. — Veal cutlets egged and crumbed, broiled
in butter ; served with demi-glace sauce, truffles, and
' preserved mushrooms.
— saut^es au beurre. — Veal cutlets broiled in butter ;
served with plain gravy.
— 4 la Singarat. — Veal cutlets, larded with small strips
of smoked ox-tongue, and braised.
l6S PRACTICAL CASTRONOMY.
C6tclettes de Veau jk !a Soubise. — Egged, crumbed, and
fried veal cutlets ; served with white onion puree.
— 4 la Salnt-CIoud.^Veal cutlets, larded with strips oif
truffles, broiled in fresh butter, and garnished with
forcemeat quenelles ; sauce allemande.
— ^ la Zingara. — Fried veal cutlets dished up alternately
with cutlet-shaped slices of broiled ham ; sauce
mad^re.
Cervelle de Veau. — Calf's brain.
— au beignets. — Calf's brain fritters.
— au beurie nolr. — Poached calf's brain ; served with
nut-brown butter (beurre noisette).
— ^ la Demi-glace.— Calf's brain blanched and cooked in
brown sauce.
— 4 la Financiere. — Boiled calf's brain with a rich
financi^re sauce and garniture.
— Iriture or frites. — Fried calf's brain.
— au gratin. — Calf's brain prepared with white sauce,
dressed on. dish, and browned in oven.
— aux huitres. — Calf's brain stewed with oysters and
chopped parsley.
— 4 la Milanalse. — Fried calf's brain served with macaroni
and tomato sauce ; garnished with ham, tongue,
finely shredded mushrooms, and truffles.
— & la Ravigote. — Fried calf's. brain with savoury herb
sauce.
— & la Tartare. — B'ried calf's brain served with tartare
sauce.
Souffle de Cervelle do Veau. — Calf's brain souffle, baked
in paper cases or shells.
Escalopes de Veau are fillets of veal cut into cutlet,
round, oval, or heart shapes, flattened and trimmed.
seasoned, egged, crumbed, and fried in butter.
— aux asperges. — With stewed asparagus points.
— aux 6pi!iards. — With spinach as garnish.
— 4 la Holstein. — Garnished with slices of hard-boiled
egg, anchovy fillets, gherkins, and capers.
— au jambon. — With fried or broiled slices of ham.
— £k la Pirigord. — Larded with truffles and bacon, and
fried ; served with madftre sauce.
— aux petlts pois. — With green peas.
— i la Savoisienne. — Dressed in the centre of a border
of small savoury rice timbales ; sauce, demi-glace
and tomato.
— ^ la Toinate. — Served with tomato pur6e.
— ik la Viennoise. — Served with brown sauce ; garnished
with gherkins, olives, capers, fillets of anchovies,
and hard-boiled egg.
MEAT ENTRi:ES (VEAL). 169
Foie de Veau—Calf's Liver.
Fole de Veau sautt a TAllemande. — Sliced calf's liver
tossed in butter, with brown savoury sauce.
— ib I'Anglaise. — Fried calf's liver with slices of bacon
and brown sauce.
— & la Bourgeoise. — Slices of calf's liver larded and
braised ; garnished with braised carrots and button
onions ; sauce demi-glace.
— bralsi k 1 'Itallenne. — Braised calf's liver with brown
sauce containing tomato puree, chopped shallots,
and mushrooms.
—: pan£. — Breaded, i.e., egged or crumbed, calf's liver
fried.
— piqui. — Larded calf's liver braised.
— rStl. — Roast calf's liver.
— sant6, sauce piquante. — Stewed or tossed calf's liver
with piquante sauce.
— frit A, la Tomate-. — Fried calf's liver with tomato sauce.
Quenelles de Foie de Veau. — Calf's liver quenelles poached
and served with brown sauce.
Fricandeau de Veau. — Cushion or kernel of veal, braised.
— aux Champignons. — Served with stewed mushrooms.
— d la Mac6dolne. — Larded and braised cushion piece
of veal ; garnished with fancifully cut vegetables
called macedoine de legumes.
— au naturel. — Braised and served with plain gravy.
— ^ la Regence. — Larded, braised, and glazed with its
own gravy reduced ; garnished with veal quenelles,
slices of sweetbread, mushrooms and truffles ; sauce
madfire.
— il la Tomate. — Served with stewed tomatoes and
tomato sauce.
Fricandelles de Veau, Sauee Tomate. — Small veal force-
meat dumplings, boiled, drained, and when cold
egged, crumbed, and fried ; served with tomato sauce.
— au gratin. — ^Veal forcemeat dumplings, boiled, placed
in a buttered dish, covered with white sauce and
breadcrumbs ; browned in the oven.
JFilets de Veau — Veal Fillets,
Filets de Veau t la Bechamel. — Fillets of veal, par-boiled
and stewed in bechamel sauce.
— i la Franpaise. — Braised, fillets of veal, served with a
brown sauce, blended with tomato pur6e.
J70 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY.
FUets de Veau farcl k la PranpaJse.— Larded fiiJets ot veal
stuffed, rolled, and braised; served with brown
sauce and marble-sliaped fried potatoes.
— aiu Haricot Verts.— Broiled fillets oi veal with French
beans.
— d la MUsnafse. — ^Fried fillets of veal, garnished with
stewed macaroni mixed with white sauce, parmesan
cheese, and finely shredded ox-tongue ; tomato sauce.
— i I'OselUe. — Small veal fillets t>roiled, and served with
sorrel puree, gravy or demi-glace sauce.
— a la Purte de Concombres.— Broiled fillets of veal with
mashed cucumber.
— r6ti aux Pommes Pailles.— Roast fillet of veal, larded ;
garnished with very finely cut strips of fried potatoes.
— & la Talleyrand. — Small circular or oval slices of veal
fillets fried in butter, and finished by cooking in a
cream sauce flavoured with lemon juice and shallots,
and enriched with egg-yolks.
Fricassee de Veau i I'Anglaise. — Stewed veal in white
sauce with sliced preserved mushrooms ; served with
thin slices of fried bacon.
— it I'Allemande. — Stewed pieces of breast of veal in
white sauce, garnished with small quenelles^ crayfish
tails, asparagus, and sprigs of cauliflower.
G&teau de Veau aux trufles. — Savoury veal cake, baked
and served with truffle sauce.
— au bain-marie. — Veal cake, poached or steamed ;
served with white sauce.
Goulache de Veau i la Hongroise. — Finely cut broiled
veal with pepper sauce.
Grenadins de Veau. — Larded veal fillets (collops), broiled
or braised.
— aux Spinards. — .Braised veal fillets with spinach purfee.
— & la Fermlere. — Garnished with groups of cooked
carrots, lettuce, cauliflower, and small round fried
potatoes ; sauce demi-glace.
— aux petits pols. — With green peas.
— il la Tomate.^-With tomato sauce or garnished with
fried tomatoes.
Timbales de Godiveau. — A kind of small pudding made of
veal forcemeat, steamed ; served with white sauce.
Haricot de Veau & I'Anglaise. — Stewed pieces of neck of
veal, with braised button onions, green peas, carrots,
and turnips ; brown sauce.
HSchis de Veau. — Minced veal, cooked in white sauce.
MEAT ENTRAes (VEAL). 171
Langue de Veau — Calf's Tongue.
Langue de Veau aux epinards. — Calf's tongue, with spinach.
— au gratin, — Cooked calf's tongue sliced, dressed on
dish, and baked with brown sauce.
— a I'ltallenne. — Boiled pickled calf's tongue with
Italian sauce. '
— en papillotes. — Braised calf's tongue in paper cases.
— aux petits pois. — Braised calf's tongue with green peas.
— a la Polvrade. — Braised calf's tongue with brown
pepper sauce.
— aux pointes d'asperges. — With asparagus points.
— & la Tartaie. — Cooked veal tongues, cut in halves,
egged, crumbed, and fried ; served with tartare sauce.
Longe de Veau— Loin of Veal.
Longe de Veau k I'Anglaise. — Loin of veal stuffed with
forcemeat and savoury herl?s ; served with fried or
grilled slices of bacon.
— d I'Allemande. — Braised loin of veal, boned, and stuSed
with veal forcemeat and bacon.
— 4 la FrauQaise. — Braised loin of veal, boned, and
stufied ; served with stuffed tomatoes and potato
croquettes.
— ^ la Montglas. — Braised loin of veal, larded, garnished
with tongue, truffles, chicken fillet, and mushrooms
cut in dice or shreds ; sauce demi-glace.
— ^ la Provenyale. — Roast loin of veal, stuffed with
minced onions and pork forcemeat ; served with
stuffed tomatoes ; sauce proven9ale.
Mous de Veau Si I'lndienne. — Calf's lungs, stewed in curry
sauce, and served with boiled rice.
Noix de Veau— Kernel of Veal.
Noix de Veau piquee k la Bechamel. — Larded kernel or
cushion of veal, braised white ; served with b6chamel
sauce.
— ^ la Financiere. — Stewed whole with cocks' combs,
cocks' kernels, sliced mushrooms, and truffles ;
sauce demi-glace or financiere.
— ^ la Gendarme. — Larded and roasted ; served with a,
highly spiced brown sauce reduced with chilli vinegar
and tomato puree.
— 4 la Jardiniere.— Larded and braised ; garnished with
groups of small spring vegetables.
— & la Lyonnaise. — Braised ; garnished with stuffed
braised onions, glazed chestnuts, and small pieces
of fried sausages.
172 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY.
Noix de Veau piqufie i la Montpensier. — Braised cushion
or kernel of veal, larded with truffles and bacon.
— 4 la Napolitaine. — Stewed or braised with macaroni
and timbales ; tomato sauce.
— a la Nivernalse.— Braised ; garnished with braised
turnips ; sauce espagnole reduced with white wine.
— & la Sarde. — Larded and braised ; garnished with
baked, parboiled ravioli, previously filled with
spinach and parmesan cheese.
— piquie i la Tiianon. — Larded and braised ; served with
a puree of chestnuts and demi-glace sauce.
— & la Westphalle. — Braised with slices of Westphalian
ham.
Paupiettes de Veau aux Champignons.— Rolled fillets of
veal, larded and braised ; served with sliced mush-
rooms and brown sauce.
— aux tomates farcies. — Served with braised stuffed
tomatoes.
Pieds de Veau— Calf s Feet.
Pieds de Veau en fricassee. — Stewed in white sauce with
sliced mushrooms.
— & la Poulette. — Boiled and stewed in white sauce,
sliced mushrooms, and chopped parsley.
— frits i, la Tyrolienne. — Fried calf's feet with tomato
sauce.
— a la Vinaigrette. — Boiled in stock, dressed and served
with vinaigrette sauce.
Olives de Veau— Veal Olives.
Olives de Veau.- — Slices of lean veal, spread over with
savoury forcemeat, rolled up like olives, and stewed
in white or brown sauce.
— k I'Anglaise. — Small olive-shaped rolls of thin sUces'
of fillet of veal, stuffed with veal forcemeat and bacon,
egged, crumbed, and fried ; served with brown sauce
and fried slices of bacon
Oreilles de Veau— Calf s Ears.
Orellies de Veau farcies, sauce tomate. — Stuffed with
forcemeat and baked, and tomato sauce,
— ^ la Lyonnalse. — Boiled, cut into strips, stewed in
brown sauce, and served with fried onion rings and
bread croutons.
— ^ la Tomate. — Calf's ears fried with tomato sauce.
MEAT ENTRIES (VEAL). 173
Queue de Veau — Calf's tail.
— A I'AIIeniande. — Calf's tail stewed in white sauce.
— i, I 'Indlenne. — Curried calf's tail with rice.
RagoQt de Veau.— Pieces of breast or other parts of veal
fried and stewed in brown sauce, with sliced mush-
rooms, carrots, turnips, and button onions.
Mis de Veau— Sweetbread,
Ris de Veau k la Car§me. — Braised sweetbread, stuffed
with^ taushroom and trilfifJe puree, coated with
supreme or velout6 sauce, dished and breaded with
cheesecrumbs, and browned in oven.
— d la Chasseur. — Stewed in brown sauce ; served in a
border of puree of game.
— ^ la Chicor€e. — With chicory or endive puree.
— ^ la Colbert. — rSlices of cooked sweetbread, dipped in
melted butter, sprinkled with, fresh breadcrumbs,
and broiled ; served with Colbert sauce.
— i la Comtesse. — Braised, garnished with^ small puff-
paste bouchees filled with vegetable macedoine tossed
in butter,
— i la Creme sur Bordure de Riz. — White sweetbread
stew ; served on a border of rice.
— d la Pauphine. — Larded and braised ; serve'd with
potato croquettes and sori^el puree-.
— en Demi-Deuil. — Braised sweetbreads, larded with
black truffles only,
— a la Duxelles. — Slices of sweetbread, coated with
veloute sauce, mixed with chopped parsley, ox-
tongue, and mushrooms, breaded and fried ; sauce
supreme.
— aux £pinards. — ^Braised sweetbread with spinach.
— frit, sauce tomate. — Fried sweetbread with tomato sauce.
— ^ la Finanddre.— Same as " Toulouse," but garniture
is prepared in brown Madeira sauce,
— 4 la Gentilhomme. — Larded with bacon and truffle, and
braised ; served with perigord sauce.
— & la Godard. — The same as "Financiere;" with addi-
tion of stuffed "olives.
— k I'ltalienne. — Fried sweetbread, masked with white
sauce and breaded ; Italian sauce.
— ^ la Jardiniere. — Larded and braised, with neatly cut
groups of spring vegetables ; demi-glace sauce.
— & la Matlgnon. — Parboiled, slightly marinaded in white
wine and savoury herbs seasoning, and braised ;
served with demi-glace sauce.
174 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY. .'.\^
Ris do Veau i la Mllaaaise.^Larded, braised and gla2,<",d ;
served with stewed macaroni, flavoured with parmesan
cheese, and mingled with shreds of ox-tongue, mush-
rooms, and truffles ; demi-glace sauce.
— & la Montpensier. — Larded and braised ; served in a,
border of rice with truffles.
— i rOsellle. — Braised sweetbread with sorrel puree.
— en papUlotes. — Braised sweetbread, served in paper
cases.
— aux petits pols. — Braised sweetbread with green peas.
— plqu6 aux champignons. — Larded and braised, with
mushrooms ; demi-glace sauce.
— aux pointes d'asperges. — With asparagus points.
— & la Rachel. — Larded and braised ; garnished with
artichoke bottoms filled with finely shredded truffles.
— k la St. Cloud. — Braised sweetbread, larded, served
with tomato sauce and sliced truffles.
— & la Senn (invented by M. A. Meyer, New York). —
Par-boiled, slit in two, dipped in butter and crumbed,
and broiled in butter ; garnished with straw potatoes
and watercress ; served with tarragon-flavoured butter
sauce enriched with beef extract.
— d la Talleyrand. — Larded and braised ; dressed on
spinach or chicory pur6e ; truffle sauce.
— & la Tomate. — Braised sweetbread with stewed toma-
toes, and tomato sauce.
— 4 la Toulouse. — Larded and braised white ; served with
truffles, chicken quenelles, and cocks' combs ; pre-
pared in allemande sauce ; garnished with fried
bread croutons or fleurons.
— & la Tnrque. — Blanched and braised, cut into slices,
then egged, crumbed, and fried ; sauce tomate.
au Vol-au-Vent. — White sweetbread stew in a light
puff-paste crust.
— !l la Vllleroi. — Braised sweetbread, sliced, coated with
veloute sauce, egged, crumbed, and fried in butter ;
garnished with fried parsley ; tomato sauce.
Belgnets de Rls de Veau. — Sweetbread fritters.
CoquiUes de Rls de Veau. — Sweetbread stew, baked in
shells.
Escalopes de Ris de Veau aux Huttres. — Slices of fried
sweetbread, with stewed oysters as garnish.
— ^ la Dorla. — Slices of braised sweetbread,, finished in
veloutfe sauce ; garnished with cooked cucumber slices.
HStelettes de Rls de Veau. — Larded sweetbread fried,
grilled or broiled on silver skewers.
PapUlotes de Veau i la Malntenon. — Boned veal cutlets,
fried in butter, stufied with forcemeat and savoury
herbs, wrapped in paper, and baked ; served with
fried parsley.
MEAT ENTRIES {VEAL). 175
Mdgnon ite Veaw—Valfs Kidney.
RSgnon de Veau k la Bordelaise.— Fried and stewed ;
red wine sauce with chopped shallots and parsley,
and dice shapes of fried potatoes. ■■
— 4 la Demldofl.— Sliced, fried in butter, with sliced
mushrooms, chopped parsley, and stewed in sauce
madSre ; dressed in border of stewed rice mixed with
truffles.
— en Demi-glace. — Veal kidneys, larded and braised
whole ; served with demi-glace sauce
— grinds. — Grilled veal kidneys, cut in halves and served
with fried bacon.
— 4 la Maitre d'HStel. — Stewed veal kidneys with sliced
mushrooms and chopped parsley.
— saut6s. — Thinly sliced veal kidney, tossed in butter,
and stewed with onion sauce.
— sautes au Vln blanc. — Sliced, sauteed, and stewed in
white wine sauce.
— sautes au Vln rouge. — Sliced, sauteed, and stewed in
red wine sauce.
Roulade de Veau au Madere. — Rolled fillet or boned loin
of veal, stuffed and braised ; served with madSre
sauce.
Sauti de Veau ^ la Marengo. — Slices of cushion, neck, or
loin of veal, fried and stewed, with sliced mushrooms,
chopped shallots, tomato and espagnole sauce ;
flavoured with sherry wine ; dished up in pyramid
form ; garnished with eggs fried whole in very hot
sweet oil, and bread croutons.
Tendrons de Veau. — Veal gristles, or veal tendrons, cut
off the thick end of the breast of veal and fried, and
stewed in brown sauce.
— aux Concombres. — Braised and garnished with stewed
cucumbers.
— k 1 'Indienne. — Stewed in curry sauce with slices of
fried bacon and boiled rice.
— 4 la Provenijale. — Fried in salad oil with finely
chopped onions and herbs, drained, and stewed in
a brown onion sauce.
— frits k la Suisse. — Braised ; when cold cut into one
inch thick slices, egged, crumbed, and fried ; tomato
sauce.
— au Velout^. — Braised white and stewed in veloute
sauce.
— i la Villerol. — Braised ; when cold, cut into slices,
soaked in marinade, drained, dipped in frying batter,
and fried : tomato sauced
176 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY.
Tete de Veau — Calfs Head.
T6te de Veau t I'Amirieaine. — Stewed in tomato sauce,
with peeled tomatoes, chopped parsley, and fennel.
— & I'Anglalse. — Stewed in brown sauce, garnished with
calf's brain fritters and sippets of bread.
— & la Destilllire. — Stewed in brown sauce with sliced
ox-tongue, gherkins and mushrooms ; garnished with
pieces of calf's brain and slices of pickled beetroot.
— Escalopes (de). — Boiled, cut in slices, steeped in oil and
vinegar, sprinkled with chopped parsley, dipped in
batter and fried.
— trite k la Tartare. — ^Boiled, cut in pieces, pickled,
egged, crumbed, and fried ; served with tartare sauce.
— en fricassee. — Stewed in white sauce with sliced
mushrooms.
— aux huitres, — Stewed in white sauce with oysters.
— i I'ltalienne. — Stewed in brown sauce, chopped mush-
rooms, shallots, white wine, and tomato puree.
— 4 la Maltre d'HStel. — Stewed in white sauce with
choppted parsley ; maltre d'hotel sauce.
^ 4 la Poulette. — Calf's head stewed in white sauce
with sliced mushrooms and chopped parsley.
— i la Robert. — Stewed in brown onion sauce.
— d la Sainte-Menihould. — Boiled, dished in a well-
buttered dish, covered with a mixture of veloute
sauce, yolks of eggs and breadcrumbs, baked in the
oven.
— en Tortue. — Stewed in rich brown sauce with veal
quenelles, button mushrooms, sliced trufBes, cocks'
combs, cocks' kernels, crayfish tails, and pickled
gherkins ; garnished with fried whole eggs and
fleurons (little half-moon shapes of baked puff-pjiste).
— i la TyroUenne. — Cooked in stock, cut in slices, egged,
crumbed, and fried in butter ; garnished with fried
parsley and lemon quarters ; sauce Tyrolienne,
— 4 la Vinaigrette. — Boiled in stock and served with
vinaigrette sauce ; garnished with hard-boiled eggs,
anchovy fillets, and olives.
Agneau et Mouton — Lamb and Mutton.
Note. — Pr£-sal6 or Behagu6 denotes Southdown
mutton, and is frequently quoted on menus for mutton.
Blanquette d' Agneau k la Romaine.— A white stew of
lamb (shoulder and breast pieces), enriched with
egg-yolks, lemon juice and meat glaze ; garnished
with small baked timbales of pur^e of artichoke
bottoms.
MEAT ENTREES (LAMB). 177
CerveUes d'Agneau — Lamb's Brains.
Cervelles d'Agneau au beurre noir. — Blanched lamb's
brains, boiled and drained, with nut-brown butter
poured over.
— en coquilles.— Stewed sheep's brains, baked and served
in shells.
— Irltes. — Parboiled sheep's brains, egged, crumbed, and
fried.
— 4 la Mattre d'HStel. — Blanched sheep's brains cooked
in white sauce with chopped parsley.
— en Matelote. — Braised sheep's or lamb's brains with
a red wine sauce ; served with small dice of broiled
bacon and glazed button onions.
— & la Rosita. — Croustades of fried bread with half a
poached lamb's brain, sauced over with mornay
sauce, sprinkled with parmesan, and baked ; dished
in circle with fine macaroni, and shredded trufides in
centre of dish.
Beignets de Cervelles i, la Turquo. — Parboiled, seasoned,
dipped in frying batter, fried, and served with
tomato sauce.
Chartreuse d'Agneau A, la Gastronome. — Boned breasts of
lamb, stewed in white stock, cut into strips, ranged
in a, chartreuse mould, alternately with braised
lettuce steamed " au bain-marie," and served with
demi-glace sauce.
Carbonados d'Agneau k la Bechamel. — Larded fillets of
lamb or mutton braised, and served with bechamel
sauce.
— d la Bretonne. — Cooked as above ; served with puree
of white haricot beans.
— & la Chartreuse. — Cooked as above, cut in slices, and
dressed in a plain mould, with green peas, sprigs of
cauliflower, and French beans ; demi-glace sauce.
— 4 I'Osellle. — Cooked as above ; served with pur6e of
sorrel.
— sauce Poivrade. — Braised boned loin of lamb or
mutton larded, served with poivrade sauce.
Casserole k I'Anglaise. — Slices of lean lamb or mutton
with suet crust, stock, and seasoning, stewed in
earthenware pot.
Cotelettes d'Agneau — Lamb Cullets.
COtelettes d'Agneau i la Constance. — Breaded and fried
with financiere ragout as garnish.
— aux Concombres.-^Broiled or grilled with slightly
fr;e(i cucunibers.
178 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY.
Cdtelettes d'Agneau k la Cussy.— Breaded and fried ;
served with veloute sauce, mixed with cliopped
cooked ox-tongue and mushrooms.
— & la Ducbesse. — Braised, masked with duxelle puree,
egged, crumbed, and fried ; dished up on a border of
green peas pur6e ; served with sauce suprferne.
— aux £pinards. — Grilled or fried ; garnished with
spinach.
— 4 la Jaidlnlire. — Breaded and fried ; served with
stewed spring vegetables.
— & la Longuet. — Partially cooked, pressed, and coated
with villeroi sauce mixed with mustaoom and soubise
purfee, then egged and crunibed, and fried in butter ;
garnished with mushroom heads ; sauce demi-glace.
— & la Maltalse. — Breaded and fried ; served with well re-
duced sauce, composed of veloute sauce, sherry, leraou
and orange juice, and finely shredded orange peel.
— ft la Mar6chal. — Egged and cheese crumbed, fried, with
bigarade sauce.
— ft la Mlnute.^Plain grilled or fried ; served with gravy
or demi-glace sauce.
^- en paplUotes. — Par-broiled, wrapped in oiled paper with
ends twisted, baked in the oven, and served
with demi-glace sauce.
— aux petits pols. — Broiled ; garnished with green peas.
— ft la Princesse. — Par-fried, pressed, coated with chicken
farce, mixed with finely chopped parsley, shallots,
mushrooms, ham, lemon juice, and grated nutmeg ;
when set, egged, crumbed, and fried ; dressed round
a pur§e of green peas or asparagus.
— ft la Robert. — Breaded and fried ; served with brown
onion sauce.
— ft la Royale. — Grilled, dressed en couronne, with foie-
gras purfee and tomato pulp (mousse) in centre ;
garnished with pommes souifl^es ; sauce madere.
— ft la Sainte-Men6hould. — Stuffed from the sides with
a mixture of bfechamel sauce, grated cheese, chopped
shallots, mushrooms, sind parsley ; braised in the
oven and served with Italian sauce.
— ft la SIngarat. — Grilled or broiled ; served with finely
shredded ox-tongue and onion pur6e.
— anx truffes. — Grilled or broiled ; served with truffle
sauce.
— ft la Villeroi. — Broiled or grilled and pressed, dipped in
velout6 sauce, rolled in crushed vermicelli, egged,
crumbed, and fried in deep fat.
RIs d'Agneau (Lamb's breads). — These can be treated
in the same way as calf's sweetbreads {see Ris de
Veau). Lamb's breads are also largely used as
garnish for all kinds of entree?,
MEAT ENTREES {MUTTON). 179
Cdtelettes de Mouton — Mtitton Cutlets.
CSteJsttes de Mouton h I'Avignonnaise. — Boiled or grilled,
dressed in a circle on a baking dish, maslied with
veloute sauce, sprinkled with breadcrumbs and
parmesan cheese, and baked in the oven.
— i la Bardoux. — Breaded, and broiled in butter ; served
with green peas mixed with chopped fried ham.
— ^ !a Bouchere. — Breaded and fried ; served plain or
with gravy.
— i la Byron. — Par-broiled, pressed, immersed in brown
sauce, egged, crumbed, and fried ; dished up in a
circle, with stewed kidneys in centre.
— ^ la Chasseur. — Broiled, served with brown sauce
containing finely chopped mushrooms.
— S la Chatelaine.— Grilled mutton cutlets served round
. a bed of soubise puree, surrounded by artichoke
bottoms filled with petits pois (green peas) au beurre,
and a slice of truffle on top ; demi-glace sauce.
— d la Choiseuil. — Spread over with veal forcemeat,
mixed with chopped herbs and mushrooms, wrapped
in pig's or lamb's caul, dipped in oiled butter, rolled in
fresh breadcrumbs, and fried ; tomato sauce.
— d la Clamart. — Breaded, fried, dished up in a circle with
pnr^e of green peas in centre ; demi-glace sauce.
— a la Dreux. — Breaded and fried ; garnished with minced
fried bacon, tongue, and gherkins ; dished up in a
circle with mashed potatoes, in centre.
— & la Finaneiere. — Larded, cooked in butter, sliced onion ,
carrot, and bay-leaf ; dressed in crown shapes, with
financidre ragout in centre.
— !l la Frangaise. — Breaded and fried in butter ; garnished
with macedoine of vegetables ; sauce madere.
— aux Haricots Verts. — Fried, garnished with French
beans.
— d, rindienne. — Breaded and fried, served with curry
sauce and boiled rice.
— ^ I'ltallenne. — Marinaded in a mixture of salad oil and
chopped savour)' herbs, egged and crumbed in finely
chopped mushrooms, parsley, shallots, lemon peel,
a pinch of mace, and breadcrumbs, fried in butter ;
Italian sauce.
— 4 la Malntenon. — Split open from side, filled with a
stuffing of chopped mushrooms, parslej^ shallots,
and chicken forcemeat, broiled or baked in the oven,
dressed alternately with heart shapes of tongue and
ham ; Italian sauce.
— ^ la Madras. — Breaded and fried (crumbs mixed with
finely chopped ham) ; garnished with piccalilli cut
in julienne shreds, and served with curry sauce.
i8o PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY.
Cdtelettes de Mouton ^ la Mancelle. — Plain broiled or grilled,
dressed round a puree of chestnuts; demi-glace sauce.
— ^ la Milanaise. — Grilled, dressed in the centre of a rice
border, the rice being stewed with tomato puree and
parmesan cheese ; demi-glace or tomato sauce.
— ^ la Minute. — Plain grilled or broiled, with gravy or
brown sauce, chopped mushrooms and shallots.
— au naturel. — Plain broiled or grilled mutton cutlets.
— ^ la Nelson. — Par-broiled and pressed, covered with
chicken forcemeat, onion puree, and grated cheese,
baked in the oven ; demi-glace sauce.
— ^ la Nivernalse. — Plain broiled ; served with glazed
turnips in centre ; gravy or demi-glace sauce.
— & la Pompadour. — Stuffed with onion puree, fried, and
garnished with stuffed tomatoes.
— & la Proven; ale. — Par-broiled, one side coated with
onion puree, egged, and breaded (crumbs mixed with
grated cheese), -fried, and served with olive-shaped
fried potatoes.
— & la Purie de Pommes de Terre, — Breaded and fried,
dressed round mashed potatoes.
— ^ la R^forme.— Ireaded with white breadcrumbs,
mixed with finely chopped ham, and fried in butter ;
garnished with mushrooms, trufHes, gherkins, ham,
and hard-boiled white of eggs, all cut into fine
julienne strips, and served with poivrade sauce,
mixed with red- currant jelly.
— 4 la Salvanty. — Braised neck of mutton, divided into
cutlets, dished up with pur^e of green peas in centre ;
sauce demi-glace.
— 4 la St. Cloud. — Larded with truffles and broiled ;
served with gravy or demi-glace sauce.
— & la St. Germain. — Grilled or broiled with green pea
puree.
— d la Soubise. — Broiled or braised with white onion
soubise sauce.
— & la Soyer. — Par-broiled and pressed, seasoned,
sprinkled with finely chopped parsley, shallots, and
savoury herbs, crumbed, and fried in butter, served
with demi-glace sauce, and flavoured with garlic and
red-currant jelly.
— aux Tomates. — f",rumbed and fried, with stewed
tomatoes or tomato pur6e.
— A la Vatel. — Stuffed from tlie sides with chicken farce,
mixed with chopped truffles, egged, crumbed, and
fried ; garnished with financiSre ragout.
— d la Vicomtesse. — Grilled and pressed, coated with
reduced madSre sauce, egged, crumbed, and fried ;
garnished with macidoine of spring vegetables ;
demi-glace sauce.
MEAT ENTR&ES {MUTTON). i8i
Oarbonades de Mouton en RagoQt. — Stewed mutton, neck
' or loin chops, with carrots, turnips, onions, and
f mushrooms, and brown sauce,
— ^ la Jardiniere. — A brown stew of mutton, garnished
with a mixture of carrots, turnips, peas, and French
beans.
Epaule — Shoulder (lamb or mutton),
Epaule d'Agneau (de Mouton) roul^e aux petits pois. —
Boned, rolled shoulder of lamb, braised, served with
green peas.
— a la Bretonne. — Braised ; served with a puree of white
haricot beans and denii-glace sauce.
— brais^e aux trufles. — Boned, stuffed, and rolled, braised ;
served with sliced truffles and demi-glace sauce.
— A. la Chevet. — Boned, rolled, roasted, and glazed ;
served with a brown sauce reduced with white wine,
flavoured with chopped shallots and parsley.
— glacie. — Boned, rolled, braised, and glazed ; served with
demi-glace sauce.
— a la Montmorency. — Boned, stuffed with forcemeat,
larded and braised ; served with a garniture of cocks'
combs, mushroom heads, truffles, chicken quenelles,
and slices of sweetbread, done in veloute or allemande
sauce.
— ^ la Paysahne. — Boned and braised ; garnished with
small stewed carrots, turnips, and peeled tomatoes ;
demi-glace sauce.
— ^ la Polonaise. — Boned, braised, and sliced ; dressed
in the centre of a border of mashed potatoes ; sauced
over with gravy, sprinkled over with fried bread-
crumbs, and baked.
— ^ la Sainte-MenShOuId. — Boned and braised, with
carrots, turnips, bacon, and savoury herbs ; when
done cut into slices, dished up, covered with brown
sauce, breadcrumbs, and small pieces of butter,
browned in a hot oven or under the salamander.
— aux tomates farcies. — Braised with baked stuffed
tomatoes and demi-glace sauce.
— ^ la Windsor. — Boned, rolled, and braised ; garnished
with cauliflower, carrots, turnips, capers, and fried
potato croquettes ; espagnole sauce.
Epigrammes. — Boned breast of lamb or mutton, braised
or boiled, pressed, and cut into small portions
coUops) ; denotes also a dish of alternate cutlets, cut
from_the neck and the breast, according to the style
adopted.
Epigrammes d'Agneau (de Mouton) k la P^rigord. —
Fried slices of lamb stewed in truffle sauce.
1 82 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY.
Epigrammes d'Agneau (de Moulon) aplapfiarna!s^r//7p^
pared as above ; when cold, coated with veloute J-ugg '
dipped in eggs and breadcrumbs, and fried in clariftv '
butter ; served with bearnaise sauce in the centre oi~
dish.
— d'Agneaux i la Dauphlne. — Cooked, pressed, cut up,
dipped in a mixture of butter and yolks of eggs,
and crumbed, fried, and served with a puree of green
peas and potato croquettes.
— i la Mac6doine. — As above, with a mixture of vegetables
in centre of dish ; gravy or demi-glace sauce.
— ^ la Napolitaine. — ^Fried, served with stewed macaroni
and tomato puree.
— 4 la Parme.— Braised, pressed, cut up, egged, and
crumbed in bread and grated parmesan cheese, and
fried in butter.
— au Pur6e de Marrons. — As above, with chestnut puree
in centre of dish ; gravy or demi-glace sauce.
— ^ la Soubise. — Prepared as above and fried in butter ;
served with white onion puree in centre of dish ;
demi-glace sauce.
Escalopes. — Fillets or cutlets' cut from the neck or loin
(chump end) of lamb or mutton, freed from bone or
fat ; egged, crumbed, and fried in butter.
— 4 la Chlpolata. — Crumbed and fried ; garnished with
braised chestnuts, carrots, turnips, and button onions,
pieces of fried sausages, and potato croquettes
— aux fines herbes. — Broiled, served with a rich brown
sauce, mixed with chopped shallots and parsley.
— h \& Pur6e de Champignons. — Grilled or broiled, with
puree of fresh mushrooms.
Filets d'Agneau ou de Mouton — Fillets of
Lamb or Mutton.
These are obtained from the loin or neck of lamb or
mutton, cut of usual thickness, and musl: be free from
bone and fat.
Filet de Mouton brais6 4 1'Anglaise. — Boned loin of mutton
stufEed with forcemeat, braised, cut up and" dressed ;
garnished with French beans.
— & la Byron. — Grilled or broiled, coated with onion
pur6e, and stewed sheep's kidne3rs in centre of dish.
— & la Gascogne. — Larded with anchovy fillets, and
braised ; served with brown sauce, flavoured with
garlic.
— i la Minute. — Grilled or broiled ; served with plain
gravy.
— i la Polonaise. — Larded, pickled, and braised ; gar-
nished with stuffed mushrooms ; brown sauce.
MEAT ENTREES '(MUTTON). 183
; de Mouton braiss k la Venaison. — Larded and mari-
naded whole in vinegar brine ; flavoured with cloves,
juniper berries, peppercorns, and savoury herbs ;
braised, and served with brown sauce enriched with
sour cream.
— t\a, Viiieroi. — Braised whole, cooled, cut up, and masked
w;ith alletnande sauce, then egged and crumbed in
bread and grated cheese, fried in deep fat, and served
%vith tomato sauce.
Fricassee d'Agneau. — Stewed breast of lamb in white
sauce with mushrooms and chopped parsley.
— aux Champignons. — Stewed breast of lamb in white
sauce with sliced mushrooms.
— aux Houblons. — Stewed breast of lamb with hop sprigs.
— aux pointes d'Asperges. — Stewed breast of lamb with
asparagus points.
HSchis de Viande. — A superior kind of hashed or minced
meat, lamb or mutton.
— k I'Eeossaise. — Hashed or minced meat laid in a pie-
dish ; seasoned, covered with brown or white sauce
and breadcrumbs, and baked in the oven.
— aux oeufs poclv^s. — Hashed or minced cold meat fried
in butter and heated up in brown sauce, with poached
eggs placed on top.
— 4 la Pompadour. — Hashed meat, with stewed mush-
rooms, truffles, and artichoke bottoms as garnish.
— ^ la Portugaise. — Sliced cold lamb or mutton slightly
browned in butter, with ham, carrots, and shallots, a
little garlic, and parsley ; heated up in brown sauce.
Haricot or RagoQt. — Pieces of loin or neck of mutton or
lamb, fried in butter, with a few small turned carrots,
turnips, and onions, drained, and stewed in brown
sauce.
— & la Bourgeoise. — Braised, with vegetables ; garnished
with same, and small braised button onions and
boiled potato dumplings.
— 4 I'Eeossaise. — Stewed lamb in brown sauce, surrounded
with small forcemeat timbales lined with thin pan-
cakes.
— a la Flamande. — Stewed in brown sauce, with spring
vegetables cut into neat shapes.
— 4 la Hessoise. — Par-fried, stewed in brown sauce ;
served with sour-crout (chou-croute), and pieces of
small ham sausages.
— k I'Indienne. — Par-frieid, and stewed in curry sauce;
served in a border of boiled rice.
— a la Parisienne. — Par-fried, stewed in brown sauce,
with cubes of carrots and turnips and fried button
onions ; garnished with small round fried potatoes.
1 84 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY.
Haricot or Ragoflt aux Petits Pols. — Par-fried, stewed in
brown sauce, with green peas.
— & la Provencale. — Hashed, re-heated in brown onion
sauce, and garnished with small stuffed tomatoes.
Langues d'Agneau — Lamb's Tongues.
Langues d la Duxelles.^-Braised, spread over with a mix-
ture of breadcrumbs, chopped shallots, parsley, and
mushrooms, butter, and egg-yolks, dressed on a dish,
coated with duxelles sauce, and browned in a, sharp
oven.
— marin^es. — Pickled and broiled ; served with brown
sauce.
— au Madere. — Braised, in Madeira wine sauce.
— il la Soubise. — Braised, served with white onion puree
and demi-glace sauce.
Langues de Mouton — Sheep's longues.
Langues de Mouton bralsees i la Fran^aise. — Blanched
and braised, split in half, and garnished with puree of
turnips, braised button onions, and turned carrots ;
brown sauce.
— aux Olives. — Braised, with French olives ; brown sauce.
— en papillotes. — Braised, dressed in paper cases, and
glazed.
— grill6es h la Suisse. — Cooked, split in halves, seasoned,
dipped in butter and breadcrumbs, and grilled ;
served with piquant sauce.
Longe de Mouton — 1 oin of JUutton,
Longe de Mouton en ChevreuU. — Boned loin of mutton
stewed in a rich game stock, flavoured with savoury
herbs, carrots, onions, peppercorns, and juniper
berries ; served with port wine sauce.
— A, la C61estine.— Braised, garnished with pancakes
spread over with chicken farce, rolled, dipped in
frying batter, and fried.
— i la Demi-glace. — Braised, and served with demi-
glace sauce.
Noisettes de prt-sal6, ChStelalne.— Braised noisettes (fillets
of mutton) dressed on halves of braised lettuce ;
garnished with noisette potatoes and artichoke
bottoms filled with chestnut pur6e ; sauce madfire.
— Malntenon. — Small slices from neck or loin of mutton,
free from bone and skin, breaded, and fried, dressed
on croutons ; garnished with artichoke bottoms filled
with green peas ; sauce demi-glace.
, MEAT ENTRi:ES [LAMB). 185
Noisettes d'Agneau au Chou.— Small lamb chops, freed
from skin, fat, and bone, tossed in butter and braised,
with small spring cabbages,
Oreillcs — Ears.
Oreilles d'Agneau. — Lamb's ears.
— de Houton. — Sheep's ears.
— d'Agneau farcies. — Stuffed lamb's ears, fried or braised.
— frites, sauce Tomatei — Fried lamb's ears, with tomato
sauce.
— gratin§es. — Stewed lamb's ears, sauced over, breaded,
and baked.
— i I'Indienne. — Curried lamb's ears with boiled rice.
— i, I'ltalienue. — Braised lamb's ears with Italian sauce.
Pieds — Feet.
Pieds d'Agneau. — Lamb's feet {see Pieds de Mouton).
— de Mouton. — Sheep's trotters.
— (arcis et braises. — Boiled, boned, stuflfed, and braised ;
sauce demi-glace.
— frits i, I'Horley. — Cooked in stock, boned, and cut in
slices, marinaded in oil, vinegar, and herbs, dipped in
frying batter, and fried in deep fat ; sauce tomate.
— A I'Indienne. — Boiled, boned, egged, crumbed, and
fried ; served with curry sauce and boiled rice.
— d la Poulette. — Cooked in stock, boned, and stewed in
white sauce, with sliced mushrooms, chopped parsley,
and lemon juice.
— ^ la Souennaise. — Boiled, boned, and stuffed with
sausage meat, dipped in frying batter, and fried in
hot fat ; served with piquant sauce.
— frits i la Tartare. — Fried as above ; served with tartare
sauce.
— !k la Villeroi. — Boiled, boned, stuffed, rolled, coated
with suprgme sauce, egged, and crumbed, and fried
in deep fat.
Poitrine d'Agneau. — Breast of lamb.
— aux Asperges. — Biaised ; served with asparagus points.
— d I'Espagnole. — Boned, stuffed, rolled, and braised;
garnished with olives, and served with Spanish sauce.
— ^ la Milanaise. — Braised ; dressed on a bed of rice,
stewed in tomato sauce, etc.
— farcie k la V6ry. — Boned, stuffed with veal forcemeat,
and braised ; served with saut6 of French beans and
demi-glace sauce.
— d'Agneau 4 la Turque. — Boned, stuffed, with sausage
meat, braised, dressed in a border of stewed rice,
flavoured with saffron, sauced over with demi-glace.
i86 PRACTIQAL GASTRONOMY.
Poitrine de Mouton.— Breast of mutton.
— aux Haricots Verts. — Braised ; served witii Frencli
beans.
— aux Macaroni. — Cut into pieces, stewed, and served
with macaroni stewed in tomato sauce.
— ^ la Nivernaise. — Stuffed and braised ; garnished with
braised turnips and button onions.
— ■ aux Petits Pois. — Slewed the same way as ragout or
haricot ; served with green peas.
— & la Robert. — Braised ; served with brown onion sauce.
Queue d'Agneau. — Lamb's tail.
— sauties. — Sheep's or lamb's tails fried in butter and
stewed in brown sauce.
— t\ZL pirrie de pois. — Stewed in brown sauce, dressed in
a border of puree of green peas.
— au Riz. — Stewed in brown sauce with rice.
Queue de Moutoc. — Sheep's tail.
— aux ^pinards.— Braised, served with spinach.
— braisSes 4 la Franpaise. — Braised, with carrots, turnips,
and small onions ; garnished with these vegetables
and with fried potato balls.
— si la Jardiniere. — Braised, served with neatly cut mixed
spring vegetables.
Rls d'Agneau aux Petits Pois. — Braised lamb's breads,
larded ; served with green peas.
— en ealsses. — Braised lamb's breads, served in paper
cases.
— frit. — Fried lamb's breads.
— & la Jardiniere. — Braised lamb's breads, larded ; served
with finely cut spring vegetables.
— au riz. — Stewed lamb's breads with sliced mushrooms
and white sauce ; served in a rice border.
Coquilles de Ris d'Agneau. — Lamb's breads-stew baked
in shells or cases.
Mognons — Kidneys.
RSgnons de Mouton. — Sheep's kidney.
— au beurre d'Anchois. — Broiled or grilled, with anchovy
butter in centre ; demi-glace sauce.
— & la broche. — Grilled or broiled on skewers.
— au Champagne. — Sliced, par-fried, and stewed with
champagne and brown sauce.
— 4 la Chlnoise. — Split, grilled, centres filled with stewed
asparagus points, and garnished with whole fried
eggs ; tomato sauce.
MEAT ENTRIES (PORK). 187
Rdgnons de Mouton i rEpleufienne. — SpHt open and
broiled, the centres filled with tartare sauce ; garnished
with small round fried potatoes ; poivrade sauce
round dish.
— dia Maitre d'HStel. — Skinned, split open, and broiled ;
served with maitre d'hotel butter.
— aux fines herbes. — Grilled or broiled, centre filled with
parsley butter ; demi-glace sauce.
— saut^es i, la Franpaise. — Sliced and seasoned, tossed,
with butter over a quick fire, when partly done
dredged with flour, and finished with demi-glace
sauce ; garnished ^ with fried bread croutons, and
sprinkled with chopped parsley
— sautts au Madire. — Sliced, tossed in butter, and served
with madSre sauce.
— panSs. — Par-broiled split sheep's kidneys put on
skewers, buttered, breadcrumbed, and baked in .the
oven or fried in deep fat.
— ft la Turblgo.— Sliced and stewed, with finely chopped
shallots and white wine, mixed with thin slices of
sausages and dice of fried lean bacon.
Pore — Pork.
(See also Light Entree Section.)
Carbonade de Pore ft la Franpalse (Breast or Belly part). —
Slices of fresh pork with vegetable garnish stewed
in brown sauce.
Carrfi de Pore ft la Nivernaise. — ^Braised neck of pork with
glazed button onions and cubes of turnips.
— brais^e, sauce Piquante. — Braised neck of pork with
piquant sauce.
— ft 1 'Indienne. — Curried neck of pork, with boiled rice.
Cervelles de Pore ft la Demi-Glace. — Blanched pork brains
stewed; in dpmi-glace sauce.
— ft I 'Italienne. — Stewed in Italian sauce, with macaroni
garnish.
C6tes de Pore ft la, Diplomate. — Braised spare ribs of pork,
garnished with stewed red cabbage, fried pork
sausages, and stuffed potatoes.
CStelettes de Pore griil^es. — Broiled pork cutlets.
— aux fines herbes. — Broiled, and stewed in brown sauce
containing chopped parsley and white wine.
— aux Haricots blancs.- — Fried, served with purSe of white
haricot Beans.
— de Pore ft 1 'Indienne. — Par-fried, stewed m curry sauce,
and served with boiled rice.
i88 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY.
Catelettes de Pore aux LentUles. — Braised or stewed, with
a puree of lentils.
— marin6es. — Pickled pork cutlets, fried in oil, stewed,
and served in tomato sauce.
— ^ la Navarraise. — Pickled, fried, and stewed in brown
sauce with sliced tomatoes ; dressed on a bed of
stewed rice.
— aux Pommes. — Fried- pork cutlets or chops with
apple sauce.
— & la Robert. — Par-fried, and stewed in brown onion
sauce.
— d la Soubise.— Grilled or fried ; served with onion puree ;
demi-glace sauce.
Jambon grill6 aux petits pois. — Grilled ham with green
peas.
— k rAIsacienne. — Braised ham, with sour-crout, mashed
potatoes, and Strasbourg sausages.
— i I'Anglaise. — Parboiled ham, wrapped in a paste crust
made of flour and water, and baked ; served with the
crust and skin removed ; reduced wine sauce.
— bouilli, sauee MadJre.— Boiled ham with Madeira wine
sauce.
— brais^ aux NouiUes. — Braised ham with nouilles as
garnish.
— brais6 au Champagne. — Braised ham with champagne
sauce.
— brals6 ^ la Franfaise. — Parboiled ham, braised in
espagnole sauce, flavoured with sherry or Madeira
wine,
Jambon bralsfi ^ la Choucroute. — Braised ham with stewed
choucroute (sauerkraut).
— ik la Bayonnalse. — Braised ham with fried onions.
dressed on stewed rice ; garnished with pieces of fried
sausages ; demi-glace sauce.
— & la Clamait. — Braised ham, glazed with reduced demi-
glace ; garnished with puree of green peas.
— & la Polonaise. — Braised ham, garnished with small
timbales of peas, choucroute (sauerkraut), and small
smoked pork sausages.
— 4 la Russe. — Braised ham, with small stuffed spring
cabbages and stewed rice.
Beignets de Jambon (Ham Fritters). — Minced ham, mixed
with yolk of eggs and bechamel sauce, shaped into
- small rolls or balls, dipped in frying batter, and fried
in fat.
Jarrets de Pore marine 4 I'AUemande.— Boiled pickled
knuckles of pork with stewed sauerkraut, forcemeat
dumplings, and white sauce.
MEAT ENTRIES {PORK). 189
Langues de Pore i I'ltalienne.— Braised pork tongues with
brown sauce and chopped preserved mushrooms.
— it la Lyonnaise. — Boiled with fried sliced onions and
brown sauce.
Oreilles de Pore en Vinaigrette. — Boiled pickled pig's ears
with vinaigrette sauce ; garnished with hard-boiled
eggs, capers, gherkins, and olives.
— frites, sauce Tartare. — Boiled, soaked in oil and chopped
herbs, dipped in frying batter and fried ; served with
tartare sauce.
— en Menus Droits. — Pickled, braised, and served with
finely sliced fried onions.
Palais de Pore grating. — Boiled pig's palate, seasoned,
dressed in a gratin dish with bechamel sauce, sliced
mushrooms, breadcrumbs, and small pieces of butter,
baked in a quick oven.
— aux Champignons. — Stewed pig's palate with sliced
mushrooms.
Pleds de Cochon au Champagne. — Pickled pig's feet,
stewed in champagne sauce.
— en Fricassee.— Fricasseed pig's feet (white sauce and
mushrooms).
— au Madere. — Stewed pickled pig's trotters (pig's feet),
with madere sauce.
— farcis A, la P6rigueux. — Pickled, stuffed with finely
chopped truffles, braised, and served with truffle
sauce.
— sauce Piquante. — Pickled pig's feet, stewed and served
in piquant sauce.
— ^ la Sainte-Men^hould. — Pickled, boned, boiled, and
stuffed, dipped in frying batter, fried in deep fat ;
served with piquant or Robert sauce.
Saucisses"" de Pore aux truffes. — Fresh German pork
sausages (Bratwurste) fried ; served with truffle sauce.
— 4 la ' Lyonnaise. — Fried pork sausages with braised
sliced onions,
— d la Purfie de Pommes de Terre. — Fried pork sausages
with mashed potatoes,
TSte de Pore 4 la Poulette. — Boiled pickled pig's head
with parsley sauce.
— frite, sauce R6mouiade. — Boiled pickled pig's head, cut
in small pieces, egged, crumbed, and fried ; served
with remoulade sauce and fried parsley.
— &\a Mobile. — Braised salted pig's head, with fried sliced
tomatoes ; dished on stewed rice ; demi-glace sauce.
* Saucisse usually stands for fresh sausage, whilst saucisson denotes
smoked sausage.
igo PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY.
VOLAILLE— POULTRY.
Canard — Duck : or Caneton — Duckling.
Canard (or Caneton) bra1s§ aux Petits Pois. —Braised duck
with green peas.
— 4 rAmiricaine. — Duck divided down the middle,
rubbed over with a mixture of French mustard,
chutney sauce, and seasoning, broiled in butter ;
served with brown sauce containing white wine,
chopped lemon, pickles, and preserved mushrooms.
— i la Blgarade. — Braised duck with orange sections and
bigarade sauce.
— t la Bordelaise. — Boned, stuffed, and braised, served
with bordelaise sauce.
— en casserole. — Braised and served in earthenware fire-
proof casserole, with demi-glace or other browiL
sauce.
— & la Chasseur. — Par-roasted, and stewed in brown
sauce with chopped mushrooms and fillets of game.
— en ehemlse. — StufEed and braised like "Rouennaise,"
wrapped in pig's caul, and finished "en casserole";
rouennaise sauce.-
— d la ehlpolata. — Braised in casserole, with reduced
demi-glace and chipolata garniture.
— !l la Duclair. — Stuffed with the hearts and livers,
finely chopped shallots, parsley, and seasoning,
roasted, and sauced with demi-glace reduced with
claret, orange juice, and chopped chives.
— Escalopes or Filets de Canard. — Breast part of duck or
duckling, braised and cut into slices, served with
suitable sauce.
— braisi A, la Fran^alse. — Braised (breast larded), stuffed
with chestnuts, chopped onions, and savoury herbs ;
served with port-wine sauce.
— & 1 'Itallenne. — Par-roasted, cut up, fried in oil, with
chopped chives, parsley, and herbs, stewed in Italian
sauce.
— & la Lyonnaise. — Braised, liquor reduced to demi-
glace, with small glazed button onions and glazed
chestnuts.
— & la Moll^fb. — Boned, stuffed w.ith liver farce, and
braised ; sauce madSre.
— aux Navets. — Stewed duck with new turnips.
— & la Nlvelle. — Boned, and stuffed with chopped ham
and beef, braised, cut up, and sauced over with
demi-glace.
POULTRY ENTRIES (DUCK). 191
Canard t la Nivernaise. — Braised, with glazed turnips and
button onions, and demi-glace sauce.
— aux Olives. — Stewed duck with olives and brown sauce.
— d 1 'Orange. — Braised, with sections of orange, glazed ;
orange ilavoured brown sauce.
— k l& Palestine. — Braised, with quarters of Jerusalem
articholjes and demi-glace sauce.
— au Porto. — Par-roasted, and braised in casserole, with
port-wine sauce.
— i la Proven^ ale. — Broiled, and stewed in brown sauce ;
garnished with braised carrots, turnips, and button
onions.
— ^ la Presse. — Roast fillets and wing portions removed,
carcase chopped and pressed, and the juice thus
obtained is blended with chopped liver and port-
wine sauce ; this, is strained over the dish.
— sk la Routiere. — Roasted, and served with brown
sauce containing finely chopped duck liver, duck
juice, and shallots. (Ducklings or ducks can be
served in the same manner as a roast by stuiifing
them with a mixture of breadcrumbs, chopped
, livers and hearts,, herb seasoning, chopped parsley
and shallots, egg,' and fresh butter.)
— i la Rouennaise. — Boned, stuffed with liver farce, and
braised ; demi-glace sauce, reduced with Burgundy
wine.
— 4 la Saint-Mand6. — Braised, and served with madfird
sauce ; garnished with thick slices of cooked cucumber,
slightly fried in butter, and fried bread croutons.
— & la Valeneienne. — Roasted, garnished with rows of
slices of orange, and served with orange sauce.
— saut6 au PScheur. — Par-fried, and stewed in demi-glace
sauce ; garnished with crayfish-tails.
— ^ la R^forme. — Par-roasted, and stewed in brown
sauce, reduced with black-currant jelly and port wine.
Croustade de Canard t la Chariraine. — French raised pie
crust lined with forcemeat and filled alternately with
sausage meat and stewed fillets of duCk, baked in
the oven.
Darioles de Canard k la St. Germain. — Dariole shapes made
of braised duck, made into souffle and poached or
steamed ; garnished with paste crusts (tartlet
shapes), filled with green pea puree, and glazed
tangerine sections ; hot zingara sauce.
Mousse deCaneton. — A light souffle of duckling, with
garniture of oranges, cherries, or vegetable puree ;
- Rouennaise or bigarade sauce.