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^^rcscittcb  to 
of  the 

^nberstty  of  ^oroutn 


bv 


Mrs.   Eric  E.Ryerson 


THE  WIDE   WORLD   MAGAZLXE 

Al'RlL,     1903,    TO    SeI'TEMBER,     1 903 


\a/  ill  li 


WIDE   WORLD 


/»^ 


MAGAZINE 


AX  IIJA'STRATI-D 

M()X'"11LY 

OF 

TRUE  NARRATIVE 

ADVENTURE 

"TRUTH  IS 

TRAVEL 
CUSTOMS 

A  X'  I  ) 

STRANGER 

SPORT 

THAN    • 

Vol.  XT 


FICTION" 


APRIL 

1903. 

TO  LONDON: 

SL  PT  I{  M  P)I^  K  GEORGE   NEllNES,  LTD. 

SOUTHAMPTON  ST. 
1 903  STKAND 


'CM.MI'.I\(.    A     I  \Vi;XTVFOr)T   TKM'XIUAI'H    I'.JLIC    I\     Till':    DARK    TO    ('.n'K    VVAKNINC." 

(sKK  i'A(;k  8.) 


The  Wide  World  Magazine. 


Vol.  XI. 


MAY,    1 903. 


No.  61. 


The  ''  Hold-up ''  at  Fenelon. 


By  Walter  George  Patterson. 


A  remarkable  railway  story.  How  the  would-be  train-robbers  seized  the  station  and  dismantled  the 
telegraph  office;  how  they  laid  their  plans  for  "holding-up"  the  "Overland  Limited";  and  how  the 
pluck  and  enterprise  of  a  young  girl,  coupled  with    the   keen  eyes  of  a  brave  boy  and  the  sagacity  of 

a  dog,  averted  what  might  have  been  a   great  disaster. 


Stage 


ciiiencies 


XACTLY  two  years  ago  to-day  as  I 
write  this  (October  27th,  1902)  I 
was  an  unwilling  actor  in  one  of 
those  almost  exclusively  American 
incidents,  the  "holding-up"  of  a 
railroad  train— the  modern  successor  of  the  old 
coach  robbery.  Although  the  news 
distributed  the 
usual  account  of  the 
affair  at  the  time — accounts 
to  which  the  n  e  w  s  - 
papers  devote  less  space 
each  year  owing  to  the 
increasing  and  deplorable 
frequency  of  these  des- 
perate enterprises  —  no 
detailed  and  ungarbled 
story  of  the  "  hold-up  "  at 
Fenelon  has  ever  yet  been 
presented  to  the  public. 

As  everyone  knows  who 
has  ever  crossed  the  great 
American  continent  by  tlie 
original  Union  and  Central 
route,  the  larger 
the  last  half  of  the 


trip   is    made    through    the 


Pacific 
part  of 
is 
most  desolate  and  forsaken 
six  hundred   miles  of  terri- 
tory known  to  this  greatly 
diversified  country. 

Beginning  with  the  cane 
and  brake  sloughs  which 
stretch  out  for  miles  from 
the  north-western  shores  of 
that  greatest  of  inland  seas, 
the  Great  Salt  Lake,  the  Central  I'acific  Rail- 
road winds  its  monotonously  unbroken  course 
for  the  half  of  a  thousand  miles  through  the 
death-breeding  alkali  plains  of  Nevada,  known  a 

Vol.  xi.— 1. 


MISS  MINNIE  VAN  ANDI.E,  WHOSE  PLUCKY  ACT  \V-\RNED 
THE  OFFICIALS  ON  THE  TRAIN  THAT  THE  TWO  WOULD- 
l-.E    ROUBERS    HAU    PLANNED  A   "  HOI.D-UI' "  AT    FENELON. 


Ft  out  a  Photo,  by  Elite. 


few  years  back  in  geographies  all  over  the  world 
as  the  Great  American  Desert. 

Fancy  what  life  must  be  at  a  railroad  station 
on  such  a  line  as  this  to  a  young  girl  not  yet 
out  of  her  teens,  and  you  may  be  able  to  con- 
jure up  a  partial  realization  of  the  existence  of 
Miss  Minnie  Van  Andle,  who  was  sent  to  the 

station  at  Fenelon,  some 
six  months  before  the 
occurrences  of  which  I  am 
writing,  as  the  day  telegraph 
operator. 

Miss  Van  Andle's  father, 
Corjielius  Van  Andle,  was 
at  this  time  the  oldest 
engine-driver  on  the  C.P. 
system,  having  run  the  first 
engine  across  the  line  after 
the  driving  of  the  golden 
spike  which  announced  the 
completion  of  the  first 
great  trans-continental  rail- 
road. Being  frequently 
with  her  father  as  a  little 
girl  both  at  the  depot  at 
Ogden,  Utah,  where  they 
then  resided,  and  also 
making  brief  journeys  with 
him  u[)on  his  engine,  she 
had  from  curiosity  chiefly 
— picked  up  a  knowledge 
of  telegraphy.  Being  am- 
bitious, she  had  then 
applied  for  a  position  on 
the  line. 

The  latest  employe  on 
this  system,  as  elsewhere,  was  started  off  witit 
what  surely  was  the  least  desirable  berth,  not  on 
the  C.P. R.  alone,  but  probably  on  any  other 
railway  in  the  world.      Night  operator  there  was 


iHi:   wihi:   WORLD   .magazine. 


none.  In  case  of  a  belated  train  needing  help 
at  night,  the  day  operator  was  expected  to 
respond  with  ala  rity  to  the  discordant  screech- 
ings  of  the  engine  whistle.  The  only  company 
that  the  young  girl  had  in  her  lonely  work  was 
such  as  was  afforded  by  a  brief  glance  at  the 
faces  of  passengers  flying  by  in  trains — no  trains 
stopped  at  Fenelon  if  they  could  help  it — or 
by  the  presence  of  the  old  grey-headed  station 
agent,  Michael  Dermody,  the  pleasant-faced  but 
somewhat  feeble  guardian  of  this  remote  post, 
who  lived  with  his  faithful  old  wife  in  a  red 
shack  of  a  detached  building  near  the  depot, 
and  with  whom  .Miss  \'im  Andle  boarded  and 
lodged. 

The   latter  gojs   without       ' 
saying,   when    it    is  known 
that  therj  was  not  another 
habitation  or  human  being 
within  fifty   miles  of  I'ene- 
lon.      Tiie  public  edifices  of 
Fenelon   consisted   of  one 
storm  -  beaten    water    tank 
and  one  squat  bin  fur  the 
storing  of  coal  and  wood. 
If   the    locality    had    a 
redeeming    feature,    it   was 
certainly     the     exhilarating 
atmosphere     of 
its    eight    thou- 
sand   and    odd 
feet  of  elevation 
on    the    great 
Sierra     Nevada 
plateau.     The 
wonderful     dry- 
lightning     of 
these  great  alti 
tudes    and    the 
awful  reverbera- 
t  i  <j  n  s  of  the 
thunder,    with 

nothing  to  break  its  full  volume,  were  not  with 
out  their  grandeur. 

The  writer  of  this  piece  of  history,  at  the 
time  these  things  occurred,  was  a  conductor 
on  a  passenger  train,  going  cast  and  west  on 
alternate  days  through  tlie  lonely  little  station  at 
Fenelon.  I  am  myself  a  widower  of  middle 
age,  the  proud  father  of  one  son,  a  lad  who  is 
now  just  past  his  sixteenth  year.  He  was 
fourteen  at  the  time  when  he  was  largely  instru 
mental  in  sfjoiling  a  cleverly  planned  "  hold-up" 
of  his  father's  train,  probably  saving  more  lives 
than  one  by  his  prompt  action. 

During  the  afternoon  of  Tuesday,  October 
2-jlh,  1900,  a  through  freight  train  had  shunted 
one  cattle  car  and  one  somewhat  decre[)it  box- 
car on   the  siding  at   Fenelon,   on  account  of 


1  HI':    Al     i  M'  .K-,  ,.     .  :    ,  1    ,       '  .(  .1       (    -,  1    i  1    I      I    -    ,      .■.  1   .  H      il . 

UOWN    O.SB  Of    IHfc    IKAIN-KollHhK^,  AM>  illb  llttl.  "  FKINCK," 

Front  a  I'hoto. 


burning  journal-boxes,  caused  by  the  rapid  run- 
ning generally  indulged  in  all  along  this  level 
stretch  of  track.  Miss  Van  Andle  glanced  at 
the  cars  casually,  for  even  they  were  something 
in  the  way  of  added  architecture  to  her  weari- 
some surroundings,  though  only  temporarily  so  : 
and  as  she  glanced  she  was  startled  to  see  the 
slidingdoors  of  the  bo.x-car,  which  had  been 
placed  directly  opposite  the  open  windows  of  her 
office,  slowly,  but  unmistakably,  being  shoved 
apart  from  within.  Leaning  forward  with  the 
j)alms  of  her  hands  pressed  flat  down  upon  her 
window-desk  —  a  mere  shelf  containing  the 
instruments  —  she    saw     what    seemed    to    be 

four  human  legs 
l^rojecting  from 
the  now  open 
car  doors  ;  and 
asshecontinued 
to  stare  and 
wonder  these 
four  human  legs 
begun  to  curve 
downwards  to 
the  ground,  and 
then  she  was 
able  to  see  that 
each  pair  of 
legs  was  but  the 
forerunner  of 
ihe  trunk,  shoul- 
ders, and  head 
of  what  seemed 
in  each  case  to 
be  some  sort 
of  a  hum  a  n 
being.  And  she 
speedily  de- 
cided as  to  wIkU 
sort  they  were, 
when  the  two 
forms  had  fully 
materialized  and  stood  erect  upon  tiie  right  of 
way  but  a  few  feet  in  front  of  her.  They  were 
of  the  genus  "  hobo,"  of  the  great  tramp 
family;  and' they  were  about  as  villainous  and 
forbidding  a  i)air  of  tramps  as  she  had  ever  vet 
beheld. 

Her  first  impulse  was  to  fly  to  the  protecting 
care  of  Mike,  the  station-master,  but  after  a 
second-s^  hesitation  she  said  to  herself:  "Oh,  it's 
only  a  couple  of  'break-beam  tourists.'  They 
never  hurt  anyone  except  by  the  shock  of  their 
general  appearance  getting  upon  one's  nerves." 
She  proceeded  t(j  make  an  appearance  of  being 
busy  at  the  wires,  so  as  to  discourage  any 
])Ossible  familiarity  upon  the  part  of  lur  un- 
welcome visitors. 

"Hi,  there,  you  gall"  came  the  words,  in  a 


WHO  SECLKbU   IHK  Ol  HIil;. 


11 


iioi.D- L'l'"   Ai'   i-i:ni-.i.on. 


rasping,   hoarse,    menacing    voice.    "  Drop   that 
telegraph  key  !  " 

As  she  jumped  back  in  a  frightened  manner 
at  this  unexpected  command,  her  eyes  fell  u[)on 
two  great  revolvers  levelled  directly  at  her  face. 

"Don't  bother  your  pretty  self  to  announce 
our  arrival  down  .  the  line,  miss.  It  will  all 
come  out  in  the  .society  papers  in  due  time, 
after  we've  finished  our  little  seance  with  the 
Limited  to-night,"  said  one  of  the  men.  And  a 
diabolical  grin  overspread  jthe  two  repellent 
physiognomies,  as  they  saw  the  girl  shrink  back, 
pale  and  affrighted. 

Like  a  flasli  she  knew  now  with  what  she  had 
to  deal.  The  men  were  not  merely  ride-stealers. 
'Ihey  were  train-robbers  !  They  had  found  out 
somehow  that  the  two  cars  were  to  be  shunted 
at  Fenelon  and  had  got  left  there  purposely 
an  ideal  location  for  their  desperate  work,  two 
successful  '*  hold- 
ups" having  already 
come  off  near  Fene- 
lon within  the  past 
few  years. 

''Vou  keep  her 
covered,  Bill,  while 
I  go  inside  and  pay 
my  respects,"  said 
the  first  speaker,  the 
more  \illainous-look- 
ingof  the  pair,  if  there 
were  any  choice. 

"  Bill'-'  held  his 
gun  in  position, 
covering  the  cower- 
ing form  of  the  girl, 
while  the  other  des- 
perado came  through 
the  side  door  into  the 
ofiice.  He  quickly 
seized  the  young 
woman  in  his  power- 
ful grasp  and,  having 
forced  her  to  a  seat 
in  the  ofifice  chair, 
proceeded  to  tie  her 

securely,  with  such  material  as  he  could  readily 
find. 

"  I  won't  gag  you,  missy,  unless  you  are 
foolish  enough  to  scream,  for  Bill  and  I  want 
you  to  tell  us  things  ;  and  then  we  shall  have  a 
little  story  to  tell  you  about  what  we  are  going 
to  do  to  Number  .Seven  to-night. 

'•  \'^ou  re  all  alone  here,  I  take  it,  missy?" 
continued  he.  "  Where's  the  old  man  that  runs 
the " 

But  the  "old  man  "  in  question  made  an 
answer  to  the  unfinished  query  superfluous. 

Poor   old    Mike,  who   had   been  taking  a  n:ip 


I  HK    "  STAl  ION  ' 


AND     TEI 
From 


m  the  shanty,  hearing  voices,  came  hurrying 
around  the  north  end  of  the  platform,  breaking 
mto  a  run  and  feeling  for  his  revolver  as  the 
scene  being  enacted  broke  more  clearly  upon 
his  view. 

With  a  muttered  curse  the  robber  outside 
the  window  pointed  his  pistol,  which  he  had 
gradually  withdrawn  from  Miss  \'an  Andle's 
direction  and  allowed  to  rest  at  his  side, 
straight  at  the  breast  of  the  advancing  station- 
keeper.  Then  he  pressed  the  trigger,  and  with 
a  loud  cry  the  poor  old  Irishman  fell  forward 
dead,  shot  through  the  heart. 

His  wife,  hearing  the  report  and  the  scream 
of  agony,  came  running  anxiously  towards  the 
spot,  only  to  fall  fainting  at  the  sight  of  her 
husband's  body. 

Without  waiting  to  assure  them>elve7i  \siiLther 
the  old  lady  was  dead  cjr  alive,  the  two  villains 

tied  her  hands  to- 
gether and  bundled 
her  into  the  waiting- 
room,  where  they  laid 
her  on  the  floor  ; 
they  then  conveyed 
the  body  of  the  man 
whom  they  had  so 
ruthlessly  shot  down 
into  the  empty  box- 
car. After  this  both 
returned  to  the  white- 
faced  and  violently 
agitated  girl  in  the 
telegraph  office. 

"  Now,  I  reckon 
you  see  that  we  mean 
business,  sis,"  re- 
sumed the  man  who 
had  been  doing  most 
of  the  talking;  "and 
we  want  you  to  make 
no  breaks  of  any 
kind,  but  to  pay 
attention  to  us." 

The  frightened  girl 
heard  the  voice,  harsh 
and  discordant  though  it  sounded,  as  if  it  came 
to  her  from  a  great  distance.  Her  eyes  were 
partly  closed  from  sheer  terror  at  what  had  taken 
place  ;  but  she  realized  in  a  dim  soil  of  way 
that  she  needed  all  her  wits  about  her,  and  with 
a  brave  effort  she  partially  recovered  her  waning 
senses  and  tried  to  fix  her  mind  upon  her 
perilous  position.  She  resolved,  if  possible,  to 
devise  some  means  of  averting  the  dan.  ■ 
which  she  knew  threatened  not  only  her.  i .!. 
but  a  train -load  of  unsusixrcting  passengers. 
She  hail  no  need  of  further  a.ssurance  from 
her  captors  as  to  their  scoumlrelly  intentions; 


.Er.RAPM    OKFICE   .^T    KKNEI.ON. 
a  P/iclo. 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MA(}AZINE. 


"  IMS    WIFE    PEI.I.    FAINTING    AT   THF    SKJHT   OK    HICK    HUSBANDS    liODV. 


but  the  assurance  was  none  the  less  speedily 
forthcoming. 

"  Me  and  Hill,"  continued  the  ruffian,  "want 
the  money  that's  on  that  train  to-night,  and 
we're  going  to  have  it.  \Ve've  worked  the  same 
lay  before,  and  it  hasn't  interfered  with  our 
being  in  pretty  good  health  right  up  to  date. 
Number  Seven  ought  to  be  due  here  about  8.15, 
and  she's  generally  right  on  time.  We  want  the 
keys  of  the  hand-car  first.  Just  tell  us,  now, 
where  the  old  man  keeps  those  articles,  will 
you,  or  where  he  did  keep  'em  ?  " 

With  a  shudder  of  horror  at  this  reminder  of 
tlij  fate  which  had  befallen  the  harmless  old 
man,  Miss  Van  Andle  indicated,  in  a  faint 
lone,  the  drawer  in  the  agent's  desk  where  the 
keys  were  kept.  These  secured,  the  man 
continued  :   - 

■■  We're  going  to  hustle  up  the  line  a  bit  as 
soon  as  it's  well  dark  say,  about  two  miles. 
We're  going  to  plant  two  red  lamps  all  by  them- 
siilves  on  the  track  where  we  stop.  'J'hen  we're 
going  to  lie  low  along  the  track  and  wait  for 
Number  Seven.  We  shall  dump  the  hand-car 
off  into  the  ditch,  where  it  won't  give  any  tips. 
When  the  cars  slow  down  we  intend  to  sneak 
aboard  the  '  blind  baggage.'  Now,  right  here 
is  where  you  get    intn   the   game,    little    missy. 


And  you  want 
to  be  mighty 
(-areful  that  you 
don't  miss  your 
cue.'' 

Miss  V  a  n 
Andle  remem- 
bered afterwards 
that  the  man 
had  evidently 
found  it  difficult 
to  speak  like  a 
man  of  no  edu- 
cation —  forget- 
ting, apparently, 
at  times,  the  part 
he  was  assum- 
ing. It  trans- 
pired, as  a 
matter  of  fact, 
at  a  later  time, 
that  while  his 
companion  was 
in  reality  the  un- 
couth and  low- 
born "  hobo  '' 
he  seemed  to 
be,  the  speaker 
himself  was  the 
''  black  sheep  " 
of  a  very  re- 
spectable New  York  State  fannly. 

"Our  object  in  going  up  the  line  to  board  our 
train  is  simply  because  we  don't  care  to  take  a 
fifty-mile  ride  x>x\  the  front  of  the  baggage-car 
from  the  next  station,  and  we  don't  reckon  the 
conductor  would  receive  us  in  the  proper  spirit 
if  we  flagged  him  here  at  the  depot.  Then,  too, 
our  get-away  plans  won't  let  us  do  any  other 
way  than  how  we've  got  the  thing  laid  out." 

Meanwhile,  the  poor  old  woman  in  the 
adjoining  room  had  recovered  consciousness 
and,  moaning  piteously,  was  rolling  from  side 
to  side  on  the  floor. 

The  two  men,  after  a  brief  conference,  picked 
her  up  roughly  and  carried  her  out  to  the  little 
cabin  which  had  been  her  own  and  her  dead 
helpmate's  home  ever  since  the  road  was  built. 
Here  they  threw  her  upon  a  bed,  where  she  was 
firmly  bound. 

Thrusting  a  gag  formed  from  a  towel  into  the 
poor  woman's  mouth,  the  men  returned  to  their 
other  victim. 

"  \\'hen  Number  Seven  stops  and  don't  find 
no  one  around  to  ex|)lain  the  red  lamps,  they're 
going  to  crawl  into  the  station  with  a  danger- 
signal  ahead  of  them  or  they're  going  to  send  a 
brakeman  in  here  to  find  out  what  the  troul)le 
is.      ICither  way,  it's  all  the  same  to  us.      It  rests 


THK     "HOI.D-Ur'    AT    FEXK  I.OX. 


with  you  llien  to  show  liow  much  you  ihiiik  of 
us.  They're  going  to  lind  you  trussed  here  in 
the  chair  :  and  you're  going  to  give  'cm  a  luirry- 
up  story  as  to  how  the  old  man  went  off  liis 
head  all  of  a  sudden,  beat  his  wife  with  a  club, 
tied  you  down  to  a  chair,  and  rushed  off  up  the 
line  swinging  a  pair  of  red  lights  and  screaming 
for  *  Ould  Ireland.'  We'll  [)ut  the  old  lady  to 
sleep  before  we  light  out.  so  she  cant  talk. 
Don't  make  no 
mistake,  as  me 
and  Bill  will  be 
laying  for  you 
even  if  one  of 
us  has  to  follow 
the  bra  k  em  an 
in.  We're  think- 
ing the  train'll 
flag  in  without 
waiting  for  any- 
thing.'' They'll 
have  you  unfas- 
tened and  want 
you  to  come 
along  with  them 
on  Number 
Seven ;  but  you 
ain't  to  go.  \'ou 
might  forget  the 
feeling  you've 
got  for  us,  and 
blow  our  game 
as  soon,  as  you 
get  out  of  the 
range  of  our 
admiring  eves 
and  these  pop- 
gun.s.  You're  to 
say  you  aren't 
afraid  any  more, 
and  t h at  y o u 
can't  desert 
your    post    and 

the  old  girl.  Then  the  train  will  go  off  and 
well,  that  lets  you  out  of  it.  But  just  for  fear  of 
accidents  —  there's  no  knowing  what  a  female 
girl  may  think  u|)  —  we'll  take  this  blooming 
telegraph  thumper  along  and  heave  it  m  the 
ditch.  Now  you  have  got  to  swear  you'll  do  as 
you've  been  told.  'I'hat's  right,  my  pretty,  and 
now  off  we  go  ;  it's  getting  toward  the  hour. 
Be  careful  you  don't  make  any  mistakes.'' 

And  the  worthy  couple  sidled  out  into  the 
fast  deepening  shadows.  There  is  no  twilight 
on  these  plateaus,  and  this  night  there  was  no 
niooni  Despite  the  awful  experiences  of  the 
j)ast  few  hours  the  young  woman  felt  singularly 
composed  when  she  realized  how  necessary  it  was 
that  .something  should  be  done,  and  that  (piickly. 


They  had  rendered  the  telegraph  useless. 
Hut,  then,  of  what  use  would  it  be  now  anyhow  > 
Number  Seven  had  long  since  pa.ssed  the  next 

telegraph    station,   fifty   miles   distant,   and 

Ah  I  a  bright  idea  flashed  across  her  mind. 

All  the  big  overland  trains  in  these  modern 
days  are  provided  not  only  with  the  usual 
up-to-date  luxuries,  but  each  of  them  alsa 
carries  its  own  telegraph  operator,  together  with 


VOU  UF.    GOIN'<;   TO   C.IVE     ICAl    A    HIKKV-Ul'    STdHV. 


a  clever  device  for  telegraphing  from  a  moving 
train. 

If  by  any  bit  of  good  fortune  the  operator  on 
Number  Seven  should  happen  to  be  "cut  in'' 
on  the  train  wire  at  this  critical  juncture— and 
she  knew  that  he  generally  was  -and  if  she 
could  but  free  herself  from  her  bonds,  she 
would  find  some  way  to  get  word  to  him  with- 
out an  instrument. 

The  ropes  hurt  her  cruelly,  but  desperation 
rendered  her  insensible  to  mere  physical  |)ain  : 
and  by  dint  of  grim  persistence  she  at  last 
succeeded  in  freeing  one  arm.  The  rest  was 
comparatively  easy,  and  she  was  soon  free  but 
painfully  sore  and  stiff. 

Iler  first  act  was  to  hasten  to  tiie  relief  t>t  the 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


old  lady,  whom  she  found  breathing  heavily  in 
a  profound  slumber  or  stupor,  having  evidently 
been  compelled  to  swallow  an  opiate  or  other 
sleep-producing  draught  by  the  two  men.  Never- 
theless, she  seemed  to  be  in  no  immediate  danger. 
Satisfied  as  to  this,  and  having  cut  the  ropes 
about  the  woman's  wrists,  the  girl  started  back 
toward  the  office  at  a  nun.  In  her  excitement 
she  thought  that  she  heard  voices  up  the  line. 
The  robbers  nii^ht  be  returning  !  Willi  but  a 
moment's  hesitation  she  turned  about  and 
rushed  down  the  track  in  an  opposite  direction. 
She  had  rapidly  evolved  a  plan  of  action,  which 
she  gaspingly  prayed  might  not  be  too  late. 

In  the  meanwhile  the  Overland  Limited, 
loaded  with  California  tourists  and  many  other 
Western-bound  passengers,  was  skimming  along 
merrily,  all  unconscious  of  impending  e\il. 

In  the  iron-beamed  express  car  was  a  vast 
quantity  of  treasure.  There  were  two  liig 
"  through  "  safes  bearing  the  seals  of  the  great 
Wells  Largo  Corporation,  loaded  with  gold  and 
currency  and  other  valuable  articles,  besides  the 
"local"  safe,  which  on  this  trip  contained  in 
one  consignment  sixty  thousand  dollars  in 
currency  destined  for  the  pay  boss  of  the  big 
Con.,  Cal.,  and  \'a.  ?\lining  Company  at  \'irginia 
City. 

Messenger  E.  Chenoweth,  who  had  charge  of 
the  run  on  this  eventful  night,  glanced  coiii])hi- 
sently  now  and  then  at  the  loaded  Winchester, 
clung  to  brackets  within  easy  reach,  and  patted 
the  brace  of  loaded  revolvers  in  his  hip-{)ockets. 

"  Lots  of  stuff  on  our  hands  to  night,  Johnny," 
Ite  remarked  to  his  assistant.  '•  It  would  be  a 
great  night  for  the  '  hold-uj) '  laddies  to  get  in 
their  work,  this  would.". 

"  Oh,  bother  them,"  re[)lied  the  assistant, 
confiileiitly.  "They've  got  the  last  pair  that 
tried  that  game  down  in  the  San  Quentin  Caol. 
I  reckon  they  won't  be  trying  that  on  again  in  a 
hurry." 

"Oh,  no;  not  that  pair  won't  ;  but  there  are 
others,  you  know." 

"  Well,  we're  fixed  fi)r  'em  if  they  come,'' 
replied  the  other.  And  so  they  dismissed  the 
subject  from  their  minds,  and  went  on  about 
their  work. 

In  the  parlour-car  a  group  of  stylishly-die-scd 
passengers,  many  from  abroad,  were  crowding 
about  the  telegraph  operator-  a  young  ftllow 
named  I''oster  craning  their  necks  over  one 
another's  shoulders,  watf.hing  and  listening  to 
the  young  man's  exhibition  and  ex|)lanation  of 
this  new  a[)plication  cf  telegraphy  telegrajiliing 
from  a  moving  train. 

Loster  hail  made  a  connection  with  the  wire 
usfd  by  the  dispatcher's  office  for  the  giving  of 


train  orders,  and  was  in  the  midst  of  a  long  and 
semi-scientific  elucidation  of  the  principle  of 
this  forerunner  of  Marconi,  when  he  paused 
abruptly  at  an  unusual  and  somewhat  jumbled- 
u[)  tickingoff  of  signals  on  the  part  of  the 
"sounder." 

"  Reckon  some  greenhorn  is  at  the  key  some- 
where on  the  line  ;  or  else  it's  a  case  of  wire 
trouble,"  he  remarked. 

But  whatever  it  was,  or  whoever  it  was,  it  was 
certainly  persistent. 

"  I  can't  make  head  or  tail  out  of  it,"  remarked 
Loster,  in  a  puzzled  fashion.  "I— but  what's 
this? — 

"  '  B-e-w-a-r-e    r-o  b-b-e-r-s    L-e-n-e-1-on '' 

"  Beware  7-ohbers  Feiie/oii .' ''  he  gasped. 
"  It's  a  '  hold-up.'  Someone's  warning  us  !  Wait  ; 
here  it  goes  again  :  — 

"  '  D-o-n-t  m-i-n-d  r-e-d  la  m-p  s.  D-o-nt 
s-t-o-p '     There,  I've  lost  her  ! 

"  That's  a  girl  there  at  Lenelon,"  he  jerked  out, 
excitedly;  "and  by  the  style  of  her  'sending' 
the  robbers  have  just  about  scared  her  out  of 
her  office  and  she  has  broken  the  wire  some- 
where outside,  and  is  getting  this  warning  to  us 
by  tapping  the  two  broken  ends  together,  thus 
opening  and  closing  the  circuit  I  That's  all  a 
telegraph  'key'  does. 

"  Oreat  Scot  ! "  he  cried,  to  the  white-faced 
passengers,  who  thus  far  formed  his  audience, 
"  I  have  it  now  !  There's  onlv  one  ])lace  on 
earth  outside  of  the  office  itself  where  she  could 
possibly  Riake  a  thing  of  that  kind  work,  and 
that's  at  the  top  of  a  pole  !  That  girl  fias  out- 
witted the  scamps  by  sliding  away  from  them 
and  climbing  a  twenty-foot  telegraph  |)ole  in  the 
(lark  to  give  us  warning  I  '' 

This  was  a  guess  on  the  part  of  Mr.  I''oster 
which  afterwards  [)roved  to  be  perfectly  correct. 
It  was  an  heroic  thing  for  a  young  girl  to  do, 
although  .Miss  Van  Andle  had  selected  a  testing 
]K)le  which  had  a  sort  of  stairway  of  ten-inch 
spikes  running  up  either  side  of  it,  thereby 
rendering  the  leat  comparatively  easy  of  accom- 
[ilishmeiit. 

On  board  the  train  many  [)lans  were  discussed, 
and  suggestions  more  or  less  wild  and  impos- 
sible made  and  rejected,  as  we  rapidly  neared 
the  localih'  of  the  proposed  "hoM  up."  Cheno- 
weth, the  ex[)ress  messenger,  and  myself  made  a 
lapid  inventory  of  the  numbt-r  of  weapons 
carried  by  passengers,  and  found  that,  together 
with  the  guns  always  carried  of  late  by  the  train 
crew,  we  could,  if  need  be,  keep  off  a  small  regi- 
ment of  "hold  up  '  rurtians.  Of  course,  we  had 
no  idea  how  many  there  were  (jf  the  robbers. 

It  was  finall)-  settled  upon  as  the  wisest  plan 
to  *'i)ut  on  the  air  '  (l)rakes)  as  soon  as  we 
reached  the  danger  signals,  and   be  prepared  to 


THE    'HOLD- UP"    AT    FEXKLOX. 


pul  u[)  the  best  fight  of  our  li\cs  when  \vc  saw 
what  we  had  got  to  face. 

It  so  happened  that  I  was  taking  my  young 
son  Walter  with  nie  on  this  trip,  inleiuhng  to 
let  him  make  a  month's  stay  with  liis  grand- 
parents, who  had  a  small  fruil  farm  over  in  the 
Sacramento  X'alley.  With  Walter  was  a  mon- 
strous great  giant  of  a  dog, 
part  Newfoundland  anil 
part  St.  IJernard,  who 
answered  to  the  name  of 
Prince.  The  two  were 
inseparables.  The  photo- 
graph of  him  shown  in  this 
article  does  him  but  scant 
justice.  He  was,  in  reality, 
nearly  as  big  as  a  voun^ 
grizzly,  and  not  altogether 
lacking  in  the  chief  charac- 
teristics of  a  grizzly  when 
he  was  angry. 

I  was  naturally  kept 
pretty  busy  as  we  were 
getting  closer  and  closer 
to  Fenelon  in  calming  the 
more  timid  of  the  lady 
passengers.  I'll  admit, 
too,  I  was  a  bit  excited 
myself  Thus  it  came 
about  that,  as  our  engine 
gave  a  single  piercing  blast 
of  the  whistle  which 
meant  that  we  had  sitzhted 
the  red  lamps  ahead  of  us 
and  were  about  to  put  on 
the  brakes  - 1  failed  to 
notice  that  Walter  and 
I'rince  had  gone  forward 
and  taken  a  stand  at  the 
glass  door  at  the  front  of 
the  long  express  car, 
directly  behind  the  tender 
to  the  engine. 

As  we  came  to  a  dead  stop,  not  a  dozen  feet 
this  side  of  the  red  lights,  I  rushed  ahead  to 
Join  the  posse  in  the  express  car,  for  we  well 
knew  that  this  would  be  the  place  of  attack  by 
the  boarding  party  if  that  proved  to  be  their 
business  with  us. 

For  one  interminable  nionunl  tliere  was  a 
breathless  hush  of  expectancy.  Tlitn  every- 
botly,  myself  especially,  was  horrified  to  see 
my  young  son  grab  a  big  Colt's  revolver  out 
of  the  hand  of  one  of  the  passengers  who  was 
with  us,  snatch  open  the  glass-panelled  door, 
and  fire  rapidly  three  times  at  some  object  in 
the  outer  darkness.  At  the  instant  that  Walter 
opened  the  door  his  giant  comjxanion,  i'rince, 
leaped  through  the  opening,  with  a  savage  growl. 


and  by  sheer  weight  bore  something  to  the 
ground  below,  where  he  immediately  engaged 
whatever  or  whoever  it  was  in  a  fight  for  life. 

Above  the  hissing  of  the  escaping  steam  we 
could  hear  mingled  curses  and  groans  and  the 
rending  of  clothes,  as  I'rince  worried  the  would- 
be  robber  he  had   selected   for   his  share  of  the 


l-RINCK    l.KAlTr)   Tlli;oi(,ll    TMK   Ol'KMMi,    Willi    A    SAVAl.li   CKOWI.. 

sport.  .\t  the  expiration  of  the  brief  twenty 
seconds  it  took  for  this  to  hapjien  we  were 
all  out  of  the  express  car  through  the  side  doors, 
my  brave  lad  well  to  the  front  with  the  rest  of 
us,  and  all  our  weapons  ready  for  quick  use  if 
theie  proved  to  be  anything  for  them  to  do. 

r.ut  there  wasn't. 

The  engine  driver  and  fireman  came  jumping 
down  off  the  coal  laden  tender,  each  bearing  a 
huge  lighted  torch  of '' waste  "' aloft  in  one  hand, 
a  revolver  grasped  in  the  other;  and  by  the  light 
of  these  flares  we  quickly  sized  up  the  situation. 

One  robber  lay  moaning  on  the  "  blind 
baggage"  platform,  shot  through  the  shoulder 
and  through  the  fleshy  part  of  the  neck,  where 
two  of  Walter's  shots  had  taken  effect  ;  a  second 


V.jl. 


2. 


lO 


'IHE     WIDE    WOKLU     MAOAZIXE. 


■  WIC    KKSCUKU    HIM    l-Hi)\l     Tills    rKl.ll,. 


one  was  still  pinned  to  the  ground  by  the  big 
dog,  screaming  with  fright  and  trying  to  escape 
the  evident  intention  of  Prince  to  finisli  him. 

Of  course,  we  rescued  him  from  this  peril, 
and  we  soon  had  the  pair  of  them  securely 
bound  on  the  door  of  the  baggage-car. 

'i'here  is  not  much  to  add.  Brave  little 
Minnie  ^'an  Andle  came  up  with  us  before  we 
were  ready  to  move,  and  from  her  we  quickly 
learned  all  the  facts  we  were  neces.sarily  in 
ignorance  of-^  particularly  as  to  the  number  of 
robbers  involved.  I  was  much  relieved,  and  I 
think  everyone  el.se  was,  too,  to  learn  that  we 
had  bagged  the  whole  parly.  'J'hat  is  to  say,  a 
young  girl,  a  little  boy,  and  a  dog  had  averted 
what  might  have  been,  even  with  the  warning 
we  had  received,  one 
of  the  big  "  hold- 
ups "  of  the  West. 
Everything,  how- 
ever, had  played  into 
our  hands  even  the 
chance  by  which  my 
boy  hap[)ened  to 
detect  the  despera- 
does stealing  on 
lo  the  "blind  bag- 
gage" car,  as  origin- 
ally |)Ianne(l  by  them. 

They     must     of 


INK   CiiI.I.AK    I'KKSK.S  lEI)    TO    "  II 
•1  K^NSIA  f-KD    HKAOS,    "l 


necessity  soon  have  discovered  the  fact  that  we 
had  received  a  warning,  from  the  posse  crowd 
ing  the  express  car,  and  they  would  un- 
doubtedly have  sprung  their  coup  without  a 
moment's  delay.  W'e  found  enough  dynamite 
ill  a  hand-bag  on  the  "  blind  baggage"  platform 
(after  we  had  pulled  into  the  station  at  Fenelon) 
to  ha\e  blown  the  whole  train  and  everybody 
aboard  it  into  eternity  ! 

Proper  attention  was  given  the  body  of  poor 
Mike  Dermody  ;  his  old  wife  was  still  living, 
though  very  feeble,  when  I  last  heard  of  her 
some  little  time  ago.  Minnie  \an  Andle  and 
Walter  were  not  forgotten  by  the  railroad  and 
express  officials,  while  Prince  received  a  fine  gold- 
plated  collar  bearing  the  legend  "  I'icivinctorcs^' 

which  is,  as  nearly  as 
some  well  -  meaning 
person  could  ex- 
press succinctly  in 
Latin  what  was  in- 
tended to  be  freel}'. 
very  freely,  ren 
dered  :  "  I  held  up 
the  '  hold-ups.'  "  As 
for  the  two  despera- 
does, they  are  now 
serving  out  long  sen 
tences  in  the  Nevada 
State  Penitentiary. 


INCK     —IMF    I.AIIN    i.K(;i;ni)    I  NI-.I  l.V 
iii:i,i)  ui'    I  111-:  '  iii)i.i)-t  PS.'  " 


The  author  has  had  special  opportunities  for  studying  these  terrible  scourges  of  the  mountains,  the 
dread  alike  of  the  climber  and  the  dweller  in  the  valleys,  where  whole  villages  are  sometimes  swept 
away  and  rivers  dammed  up.      The    article    is    illustrated    by   a    set    of  striking   photographs    taken    by 

Mr.   G.   R.   Ballance,   of  St.  Moritz  Dorf,  Switzerland. 


')  one  who  is  renewing  old  acquaint- 
ance with  the  High  Alps  in  summer- 
time the  frequent  roar  of  minor 
avalanche  comes  as  a  something 
without  which  the  country  does  not 
seem  altogether  itself  'J'he  sound  is  merely 
incidental,  and  the  hearer  never  pauses  to 
think  of  its  real  meaning.  Even  a  note  in  the 
daily  paper,  which  tells  of  one  more  avalanche 
fatality  on  the  Matterhorn,  finds  no  particular 
connection  in  his  consciousness  with  the  distant 
dull  roar,  like  the  firing  of  heavy  guns,  which  is 
the  sum  total  of  his  acquaintance  with  this 
dread  danger  of  the  mountains.  It  is  well  for 
him  if  his  awakening  does  not  come  by  way  of 
actual  personal  disaster  on  the  glacier. 

The  present  writer  and  the  photographer  who 
took  the  snap-shots  which  illustrate  this  article 
have  been  fortunate  in  that  they  have  witnessed, 
as  it  were  face  to  face,  avalanches  which  must 
have  destroyed  any  living  creature  or  any  work 
of  mortal  hands  which  stood  in  the  path, 
fortunately,  however,  these  great  falls  occurred 
without  claiming  a  single  human  life. 

An  avalanche  and  a  landslip  differ  only  in  so 
far  that  the  matter  which  falls  is  in  the  one 
case  snow,  in  the  other  earth.  In  both  cases  the 
determining  cause  may  be  due  to  any  one  of  a 


dozen  various  possibilities,  but  in  the  case  of  the 
avalanche  the  usual  motor  force  is,  of  course, 
the  heat  of  the  sun.  As  this  increases  with  the 
advance  of  the  season,  overhanging  or  roughly- 
balanced  masses  of  snow  fail  to  maintain  their 
cohesion  with  the  main  bulk  and  plunge  wildly 
down  into  the  lower  pastures,  sometimes  into 
the  very  valleys  themselves. 

Only  a  few  seasons  ago  the  papers  told  of  an 
avalanche  which  menaced  the  existence  of  a 
village  in  the  Tyrol,  while  those  who  have  passed 
a  while  near  the  Rigi  will  recall  a  true  valley  of 
desolation  where,  says  local  tradition,  grass  shall 
never  again  clothe  the  hillside  nor  cattle  browse, 
because  of  the  snows  which  were  loosed  on  a 
devoted  village  and  overwhelmecT  the  houses, 
their  inmates  and  cattle  alike,  in  one  awful 
grave. 

Nor  is  it  only  in  high  summer  thai  the 
mountain  snows  fall  upon  the  valley  dwellers. 
Between  St.  Moritz  in  the  Upper  Engadine  and 
Davos  in  the  lower  valley  the  road  lies  through 
the  Muela  Tass.  This  pass  i.s,  by  the  nature  of 
the  mountain  sides  above  it,  peculiarly  open  to 
the  sweeping  onrush  of  snow  masses,  before 
which  nothing  can  stand.  Four  winters  or  so 
back  the  Davos  post  never  reached  the  upper 
valley,  and  all  endeavours   to  find   the  missing 


12 


THE    WIDE    WORLD     MAGAZINE. 


men  or  mails  failed,  so  huge  was  the  fatal  area 
involved  in  the  fall  and  so  deep  the  subsequent 
snow,  which  covered  all  trace  of  the  where- 
abouts of  the  actual  disaster.  Four  months 
later,  in  the  bright  days  of  early  June,  another 
"post"'  .saw  a  human  arm  stretched  upward  as 
though  in  mute  accusation  of  the  smiling  sky. 
And  there  the  searchers  found  those  who  had 
perished  in  performance  of  their  duty — six 
couriers  and  drivers  of  the  Staats-post,  their 
horses  and  their  mails,    fresh  and  sound   as  on 


days  rushes  a  cloud  of  smoky  snow,  beneath 
which  the  noisy  masses  of  the  fall  rush  and 
tumble. 

Straight  in  front  of  Miirren,  also,  is  a  huge 
mountain  of  bare  rock  called  the  Black  Monch. 
So  steep  is  it  that  on  its  extreme  top  alone  will 
any  quantity  of  snow  lie,  and  even  there  the 
masses  are  ever  slipping  away.  When  this 
glacier  -  like  movement  has  forced  a  certain 
quantity  of  the  packed  snow  over  the  edges  of 
the  rock  the   cornice  breaks  away  and   falls,  a 


Frotii  a\ 


A    GENKK'AI.    \  li;\V    i<\-    AN    A  VALANCIIK, 


{Photo. 


the  moment  when,  more  than  .six  score  days 
before,  the  mountain  let  loose  their  snowy 
winding-sheet. 

No  more  instructive  sights  in  the  ways  of  the 
minor  avalanche  can  be  seen  in  all  Switzerland 
than  are  visible  between  June  and  September 
from  the  high  places  on  which  the  buildings  of 
-Miirren  cluster.  This  village  is  in  the  heart  of 
the  Bernese  Olterland,  and  hangs  on  the  very 
verge  of  a  two  thousand  foot  precipice,  which 
forms  the  wall  of  the  Lautc-rbrunnen  \'alley. 
On  the  far  side  is  a  chain  of  mountains,  worthy 
peers  of  the  three  [K-aks  in  which  they  culminate 

the  Eiger,  Monch,  and  Jungfrau.  Between 
the  various  mountains  — not  that  there  is  any 
observable  break  in  their  eternal  chain — several 
permanent  slides  stretch  their  dirty,  fan-shaped 
courses  into  the  valley.      Down  them  every  few 


solid  wateifall  of  snow  and  ice,  into  the  valley 
far  below.  Few  finer  sights  are  imaginable  than 
the  spurting  leaps  of  this  dazzling  fall  as  it  is 
tossed  from  ledge  to  ledge  in  that  sheer  eighteen 
hundred  foot  fall.  Afterwards  the  Black  Monch 
justifies  its  dark  name  by  contrast,  for  the 
uleaming  relics  of  the  fall  linger  in  crevice  and 
on  ledge  until  the  sun  at  last  restores  the  rock 
to  its  habitual  nakedness. 

From  Miirren,  again,  the  present  writer  was 
witness  of  a  most  wonderful  sight.  Away  a 
matter  of  two  miles  to  the  right  of  the  village 
runs  a  narrow  valley,  by  name  the  Sefinen  Thai. 
The  thai  is  no  more  than  the  bed  of  a  rocky 
torrent,  and  so  constrained  is  this  stream  that 
lower  down  it  has,  by  some  cataclysm  of  Nature, 
forced  a  tunnel  through  an  immense  mass  of 
rock    which    otherwise   would    have    completely 


.WAI.ANCHES. 


From  a 


AN    AVALANCHE. 


barred  its  course.  About  a  mile  above  this 
spot  there  is  a  steep  shde,  above  which  lies  a 
vast  snowfield,  almost  a  miniatu-e  tableland  of 
snow. 

One  hot  day  in  early  July  some  five  years 
since  this  space  shot  its  thousands  of  tons  of 
I)acked  snow  into   the   t]ial.     A\'ith 


save  a  deafening  ivxir  like 
the  boom"  cif  a  dozen 
heavy  guns  the  mountain 
emptied  its  covering  into 
the  narrow  valley,  where 
it  completely  blocked  the 
stream,  and  had  the  spot 
been  other  than  totally 
barren  must  have  caused 
some  terrible  disaster. 
The  fall  continued  for  at 
least  two  minutes,  during 
the  whole  of  which  a 
fortunate  chance  enabled 
nie  to  observe  it  through 
glasses  at  a  distance  of  not 
much  more  than  half  a 
mile.  From  the  same  spot 
a  telescope  enabled  me  to 
watch  some  less  gigantic 
falls,  but  which  might 
have  well  found  record 
throughout  the  world. 
A  party  of  climbers  were  late  in  reaching  the 
summit  of  the  Eiger,  and  it  was  not  till  about 
9  a.m. — it  should  have  been  6.30  at  latest — 
that  they  commenced  the  descent.  A  matter 
of  an  hour's  climb  from  the  top  the  way  leads 
down  a  narrow  passage  between^  steep  rocks. 
Avalanches  from  that  side  nearly  always   take 


{I'lioto. 


AN    AVAI.ANCHK    WHICH    UKSCtNDKl)    UP<^N    THF    UISCHMAIHAI.    \AI.11V.    IS     IHE    I-NGAUINK,    IN    All;ll,     ly.- 

From  a  Photo. 


14 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


THE    FLOOR    Ol-     AN    A  VAl.ANCI  I K,    SH0\V1N(;    THli;    CURIOUS    MANNKk    IN    WHICH     THE    SNOW     HAS    HKKN     K(>I.I.KD    INTO    I'.AI.I.S. 

From  a  Photo. 


this  course  in  their  fall.  Suddenly  we  who 
were  watching  saw  the  faint  cloud,  as  of  far-off 
smoke,  which  hovers  about  the  avalanche  in  its 
course.  With  a  desperate  effort  the  two  guides 
literally  dragged  their  climber  on  to  the  rocks. 
A  moment  later  the  avalanche  swept  by.  It 
was  after  a  week  or  more  of  extreme  heat,  and 
all  the  forenoon  fall  followed  fall.  The  guides 
made  several  attempts  to  get  their  man  down  ; 
but  his  nerves  appeared  unstrung  and  they  had 
to  give  over.  At  last,  about  four,  we  saw  them 
make  a  new  start,  and  finally  had  the  satis- 
faction of  seeing  the  party  emerge  on  the 
glacier  below  Wengcrn  Alp  just  as  the  light 
began  to  fail. 

If  any  man  would  know  the  excitement  of  a 
climb  without  risking  a  single  step,  let  him  go 
to  the  Hotel  des  Alpes  at  Miirren,  and  watch 
another  such  climb  through  .  Herr  Giirtner's 
glass  there. 

And  now  let  us  turn  once  more  to  the 
lingadine,  to  the  lower  valley,  where  the  village 
of  Davos  Dorfli  stands.  Full  in  view  of  the 
station  hotel,  a  broad  valley,  known  as  the 
Dischmathal,  runs  up  at  right  angles  to  the 
Davos  valley  proper.  Here,  in  April,  1902, 
occurred  the  tremendous  fall  whose  strange 
vagaries  are  illustrated  by  the  photographs  which 
accompany  this  article. 

The  Dischmathal  is  a  fairly  broad  valley,  with 


well  wooded  and  not  very  steep  sides.  It  lies, 
however,  between  mountains  on  many  of  which 
there  are  large  glaciers,  and  it  was  from  one  of 
these  that  the  immense  mass  of  snow^  which 
caused  such  ruin  originally  fell.  Gathering  im- 
petus as  it  went,  the  avalanche  projected  its 
thousands  of  tons  of  snow  on  the  pine  woods, 
through  which  it  cut  a  road  as  clean  as  though 
every  tree  had  been  felled  flush  with  the  ground 
by  the  axe  of  some  miraculous  woodman. 

The  chief  glacier  above  the  woods  is  the 
famous  one  called  the  Scaletta,  but  it  was  from 
a  smaller  field  on  the  Jatzhorn  that  the  trouble 
came.  It  had  been  snowing  for  about  a  week 
and  the  depth  of  new  snow  in  the  valley  was 
about  ten  or  eleven  feet,  probably  much  more 
on  the  high  peaks.  Next  came  a  warm  spell  of 
true  A[)ril  weather.  The  new  snow  settled,  i.e., 
grew  compressed  by  its  own  weight  and  the 
softening  influence  of  the  sun.  Vou  are  to 
remember  that  this  new  snow  did  not  lie  upon 
the  earth  nor  yet  upon  a  bare  rocky  bed.  It 
lay  as  it  had  fallen,  a  separate  mass  su[)er- 
imposed  upon  the  hard  frozen  crust  of  last 
winter's  falls.  As  it  contracted  from  above  it 
naturally  began  to  expand  slightly  on  its  unstable 
base.  Tl;e  movement  begun  continued,  and 
the  whole  mass  commenced  to  shift.  Finally 
it  came  clean  away,  leaving  a  gash  of  over  a 
mile  long  on    the   side  of   the   Jatzhorn    where 


A\ALAXCHKS. 


15 


fe?1^.-^ 


NOTICE   THE   CUUI' 


I  I  WL-LIKE    MOUI.DliNGS   CAUSED    liV   HIE    IMMENSE    WEIGHT   OF    THE    MOVlNi;    MASSES   OK    SNOW 

From  a  Photo. 


it  had  parted  from  the  main  mass.  This  gash 
was  upwards  of  fifteen  feet  deep  and  was  plainly 
visible  miles  away  from  the  bottom  of  the  valley. 
Now,  avalanches  are  not  so  rare  on  the 
Jatzhorn,  which  possesses  one  of  the  permanent 
slips  or  slides  of  which  I  have  spoken  in  the 
Lauterbrunnen  Valley.  'I'he  present  fall  was, 
however,  on  such  a  scale  that  it  at  once  filled 
the  entire  channel,  and 
literally  brimming  over 
the  edge  swept  everything 
before  it  down  the  valley 
sides.  Acres  of  pines  of 
unknown  age  went  down 
as  easily  as  skittles,  and 
the  giant  moved  down 
the  valley  with  a  roar 
heard  for  miles  away,  and 
under  a  cloud  of  snow- 
dust  so  thick  as  to  be- 
come a  veritabK;  fog, 
through  which  nothing 
could  be  seen  for  many 
minutes.  For  weeks 
after  every  tree  and  rock 
within  a  large  radius 
was  shrouded  with  a 
dirty  covering  of  wet 
snow  mingled  with  all 
manner  of  dust  taken  up 
by  the  fierce  draught  of 
the  fall. 


Now,  an  oidinary  well-behaved  avalanche  is 
content  to  roll  its  troubled  masses  down  into 
the  bed  of  a  valley,  there  to  stay  until  the  st  n 
has  effaced  its  last  relics  from  the  summer  land- 
scape. Not  so  this  one,  the  force  and  weight 
of  which  carried  it  right  across  the  valley  so  that 
it  partly  mounted  the  opposite  hillside— a  thing 
almost  U'  precedented  in  the  history  of  its  kind. 


I  Ml     1  IGLKE  OK  THE  I.ADV  HEKE  SHOWS  WII.I.  (;l\  E  AN   \\>\ 

From  n  I'hoto. 


i6 


THE    WIDE     WORLD 


xMAGAZINE. 


This  same  impetus  and  weight,  acting  on  snow 
already  packing  under  the  heat  of  a  week  of 
spring  sun,  compressed  the  moving  masses  into 
a  consistency  Httle  short  of  the  famihar  asplialt. 
Moreover,  the  masses  naturally  split  up,  and  it 
was  the  side  pressure  of  the  later  parts  which 
threw  up  the  extraordinary  bevels  or  mouldings 
of  snow  shown  in  several  of  the  photographs. 

At  the  same  time  five  successive  falls  occurred 
from  the  same  mountain   on   its  other  side  in 


wards  only  (o  meet  a  similar  wall  of  ejected  air  ; 
then  the  two  fought  as  to  which  should  triumph, 
and  so  a  false  wind  arose. 

As  the  great  avalanche  rushed  down  the 
valley  it  flung  up  walls  or  ramparts  on  either 
side  '.o  a  height  of  over  thirty  feet.  The  figure 
of  a  lady  seen  in  one  of  the  photos,  gives  a 
good  idea  of  this,  although  you  must  note  that 
her  feet  are  already  far  more  than  her  own 
height  above  the  level  of  the  avalanche  bed. 


!■  I'oin  a\ 


A   TERRIBLE    AVALANCHE    DANllER — MOUNTAINS   UK   SNOW    BLOCKING    UB   A    STREAM. 


iPhoto. 


the  Ziige  gorge,  which  is  on  the  coach  road  from 
Davos  to  the  Up[)er  Engadine.  The  noise  of 
these  joined  forces  with  that  of  the  Dischmathal, 
and  the  combined  result  was  very  curious. 
]''irst  there  arose  a  loud,  dull  roar,  which  soon 
changed  into  a  deafening  thunder  of  ever- 
increasing  volume,  which  again  rose  in  a  weird 
sort  of  chromatic  scale,  mingled  at  last  with  a 
wild  sighing,  almost  a  moan,  as  of  a  thousand 
storm-wraiths  wailing  for  some  dread  disaster. 
This  curious  phenomenon  was  doubtless  due 
to  the  great  displacement  of  atmosi-jhere  caused 
in  two  valleys,  the  air  from   which   rushed   up- 


Of  course,  the  snow  blocked  up  the  course  of 
the  stream  in  either  valley.  In  the  Ziige  gorge 
it  resulted  in  a  rise  of  water  which  washed  away 
the  bridge  and  a  part  of  the  road,  so  that  com- 
munication was  not  restored  for  many  weeks. 
In  the  Dischmathal  there  is  no  road,  and,  fortu- 
nately, no  particular  harm  resulted  here,  though 
the  photo,  which  shows  how  the  water  at  once 
began  to  form  a  miniature  lake  will  give  you  an 
idea  of  the  results  which  may  occur  when  a 
blocked  stream  rises  to  a  great  head  behind  a 
barrier  composed  of  nothing  more  stable  than 
snow. 


viiSPAIN 


Mr.  Kennedy  here  describes  his  long 
tramp  from  Granada  to  Jaen,  and  the 
incidents  which  occurred  en  route,  in- 
cluding his  meeting  with  the  old 
wanderer,  Aquilino,  and  the  young 
Spaniard  who  spoke  "  English." 


HE  night  before  I  left  Granada 
Santiago  gave  a  dinner  in  my 
honour.  Jose  Castro,  Constant, 
Rafael,  and  several  others  were  pre- 
sent. It  was  a  clear,  warm  night, 
and  we  dined  together  at  a  big  table  in  the 
garden. 

I  sat  next  to  Joaquin,  the  advocate  who  had 
engineered  my  defence  at  the  trial.  I  endea- 
voured to  tell  him  what  great  friends  and 
comrades-in-arms  briefless  barristers  and  jour- 
nalists were  in  London.  I  tried  to  picture  the 
aflfinily  between  the  two.  Joaquin  looked  intel- 
ligent and  then  he  endeavoured  to  tell  me 
something— what,  I  don't  know. 

We  had  a  gay  and  jovial  and  jolly  time. 
Santiago  came  to  the  front  like  a  hero  of  old. 
He  made  the  strongest  sort  of  a  requisition 
upon  the  forces  of  the  cellar  of  the  hotel.  The 
way  he  commanded  Emilio  to  bring  up  the 
bottles  caused  me  to  gaze  u[ion  him  with 
respectful  admiration. 

All  of  us  made  speeches  at  the  dinner.  They 
were  of  a  complimentary,  flowing,  and  flowery 
nature,  as  speeches  at  dinners  ought  to  be.  As 
near  as  I  could  get  at  it  the  burden  of  the 
speeches  was  that  I  was  all  right — was  one  of 
the  best.     They   were  much  cliarmed   because 


of  the  fact  that  I  had  graced  Andalusia  with 
my  presence.  Everybody  was  proud  to  have 
met  me  ;  indeed,  we  were  all  j)roud  and  j)leased 
and  gratified  to  have  met  one  another. 

I'he  end  of  each  speech  was  punctuated  by 
the  commanding  voice  of  the  noble  Santiago 
as  he  ordered  Emilio  to  bring  up  yet  another 
bottle. 

My  speech  was  by  common  consent  admitted 
to  be  the  speech  of  the  evening.  I  praised 
Andalusia  and  everything  Andalusian  to  the 
skies  ;  I  praised  Granada  and  all  its  works  of 
art  and  monuments  ;  I  praised  Santiago  and  the 
hotel— and  more  especially  its  wines  ;  I  praised 
everyone  at  table  ;  and  I  praised  Spain  in 
general  and  all  its  wonderful  sports  and  insti- 
tutions. In  fact,  I  gave  forth  a  pa\an  of  praise 
at  the  top  of  a  naturally  strong  voice. 

By  this  time  I  had,  of  course,  become  some- 
what facile  in  the  art  of  {jraising  Spain.  I  had 
done  it  so  often. 

I  sat  down  in  the  midst  of  tremendous 
applause.  Rafael,  who  had  not  understood  a 
word  of  what  I  had  said,  applauded  even  more 
loudly  than  anyone  else.  I  thought  he  was 
going  to  break  the  table. 

And  then  Constant  arose  and  made  a  trans- 
lation of  my  speech.  Again  there  was  applause 
— if  possible  greater  than  ever.  During  it 
Rafael  shook  me  fervently  by  the  hand. 
"  Mucha  bueno    Ingles  1 "    he  exclaimed,   with 


Vol. 


Copyriglit,  1903,  by  George  Newiies,   Limited. 


i8 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


emotion.     When  the  applause  softened  down  I 
got  up  and  made  a  few  closing  remarks. 

After  that  we  turned  in. 

At  five  o'clock  in  the  morning  I  was  up  and 
getting  ready  to  start.  It  had  been  arranged 
that  Santiago,  Constant,  and  Joaquin  were  to 
accompany  me  along  the  road  for  a  few  kilb- 
metros.  My  next  point  was  Jaen,  a  town  ninety- 
seven  kilometros  from  Oranada.  It  lay  up  due 
north.  It  would  take  me  three  days  to  make 
the  journey. 

At  six  o'clock  the  four  of  us  were  in  a  carriage 
bowling  down  the  road  leading  out  from  the 
Alhambra.  And  soon  we  were  out  through  the 
low,  Moorish  arch  at  the  entrance  of  the  gardens. 
I  turned  for  a  last  look  at  this  arch.  Many  a  hot 
day  I  had  toiled  up  the  steep  road  towards  it 
and  passed  through  it  into  the  grateful,  cool 
shade.  Most  likely  I  would  never  see  the 
strange  old  arch  again. 

We  were  going  now  at  a  swinging 
rate  along  the  Calle  de  los  Reyes 
Catolicos.  The  shops  were  begin- 
ning to  be  opened,  and  people  were 
moving  about  and  along. 

And  then  we  turned  to  the  right 
by  the  big  plaza  at  the  end  of  the 
street — and  to  the  right  again.  And 
we  were  on  a  road  that  went  out 
in  a  straight  line  into  the  distance 
— out  as  far  as  the  eye  could  see — 
the  road  to  Madrid. 

Little  was  said  as  we  went  along. 
Partings  have  always  in  them  a 
touch  of  sadness  ;  you  can  never 
tell  if  you  will  meet  people  again. 
You  may  have  shaken  them  by  the 
hand  for  the  last  time.  It  is  hard 
to  meet  people  and  to  like  people 
and  to  pass  from  them  and  never 
see  them  again. 

The  carriage  had  stopped,  and 
Constant  was  strapping  up  my  knap- 
sack on  to  my  back.  We  were  now 
some  kilonutros  away  from  (iranada. 
The  town  was  not  to  be  seen  :  it 
was  lying  off  behind  the  mountains. 

They  were  going  back  along  the 
road  now,  and  I  was  standing  look- 
ing after  them.  'Ihey  had  shaken 
me  again  and  again  by  the  hand, 
and  had  wished  me  all  sorts  of  luck 
on  my  journey.  Joaquin  had  told 
me,  through  Constant,  that  some 
time  or  another  he  might  come  and 
see  me  in  London.  Poor  old 
Joaquin  !  He  had  the  goodness  and 
kindness  of  heart  of  the  Andalusian. 


I  watched  the  carriage  till  it  was  out  of 
sight. 

For  a  wliile  I  felt  low-spirited,  but  in  time 
it  began  to  wear  off.  It  was  a  beautiful  morn- 
ing, and  the  air  was  fresh  and  cool,  and  soon  I 
felt  myself  again.  I  began  to  think  of  what 
I  was  going  to  see  and  what  would  happen.  It 
was  grand  to  walk  briskly  along  this  fine  road, 
and  after  an  hour  or  two's  tramp  I  was  as  right 
and  as  fit  as  a  nail. 

As  I  was  coming  up  to  the  first  pueblo 
(village)  I  heard  in  the  distance  the  barking  of 
dogs,  and  soon  I  saw  two  of  them  running 
towards  me.  'But  I  was"  fully  prepared  to  receive 
them.  Constant  had  warned  me  that  the  dogs 
in  the  country  were  savage  and  dangerous,  and 
I  had  provided  myself  with  a  heavy  latigo 
(whip).  I  had,  of  course,  my  revolver  to  hand, 
but  shooting  dogs  was  no  part  of  my  plan.  It 
would  only  get  me  into  needless  trouble. 


'  IlK   .SKIOL)   STILL   ANLl    CA\  li    WHAT    I    SUri'OSli    WAS   A    HOWL   OF    WONUliU.' 


A    'I'RAMP    IX     SI'AIX. 


19 


As  the  dogs  were  rusliing  towards  me  I  slipped 
off  my  knapsack  and  got  off  the  latigo,  which 
was  strapped  along  the  top  of  it.  Then  I  stood 
a  little  to  one  side  of  the  knai)sack  and 
waited,  my  latigo  grasped  m  my  left  hand 
behind  my  back.  Had  the  dogs  seen  it  they 
might  not  have  rushed  on  me  with  such  valour. 

The  foremost  dog  was  a  big,  ferocious  fellow. 
His    hair     bristled     and 
stood  around    his   neck, 
forming  a  sort  of  collar. 

As  he  came  on  I 
backed  as  though  afraid, 
and  he  jumped  at  me  as 
though  he  would  take 
me  down  at  a  bite.  But 
— well,  he  met  the  latigo 
right  across  the  eyes. 
And  as  he  howled  and 
swerved  he  met  it  again 


gesture  IS  a  gesture,  but  a  mispronounced  word 
IS  either  nothing  or — what  is  worse — misleading. 
*  'i'he  woman  to  whom  I  made  the  signs  was 
rather  good  looking.  She  understood  at  once 
what  I  meant.  A  man,  who  was  probably  her 
husband,  was  sitting  at  the  farther  end  of  the 
posada  smoking  a  cigarette.  He  came  forward 
and  looked  at  me. 


and 


again. 


He    stood 


still,  and  gave  what  I 
suppose  was  a  howl  of 
wonder,  and  I  got  him 
again  right  in  the  middle 
of  the  howl.  It  was  a 
glorious  moment. 

Just  as  I  was  swinging 
the  latigo  to  let  him  have 
one  for  good  measure, 
he  turned  and  executed 
with  great  swiftness  a 
strategic  movement  to 
the  rear — to  the  village 
from  whence  he  came. 
His  tail  hung  limp  and 
useless  as  he  hurried 
along.  I  suppose  he  was 
going  to  tell  the  other 
dogs  that  it  was  just  as 
well  to  treat  me  with 
civility. 

I  looked  round  for  his 
companion  in  the  charge. 
But  I  could  see  him  no- 
where. He  was  in  all 
likelihood  a  dog  of  a 
discreet  calibre. 

I  picked  up  my  knap- 
sack and  walked  into  the 
village.        When     I     got 

there  I  saw  the  big  dog  with  whom  I  had  had 
the  interview.  I  whistled  to  him.  But  he  was 
coy.     He  withdrew  himself. 

I  went  in  to  what  seemed  to  be  a  sort  of  a 
posada  (inn)  and  made  signs  that  I  wanted 
something  to  eat.  I  thought  it  just  as  well  not 
to  trust  to  the  few  words  of  bad  Spanish  that  I 
had    at    my   command.      A    sign    is   a    sign,   a 


1    WENT    I.N    TO   WHAT   SKF.MED   TO    UE   A 
SOKT   OK    HOSADA." 


"  Buenos  dias  " 
(good  day),  he 
said. 

I  bowed  and 
wished  him  good 
day,  and  then  he 
went  and  sat  down 
to  resume,  I  sup- 
pose, his  flow  of 
thought.  His 
curiosity  had  been  satisfied. 

I  turned  towards  the  door 

of  the  posada,  and   in   front 

of  it  there  was  standing  a  crowd  of 

men,     women,    and    children.      The 

whole    village    had    evidently    turned 

out   to  see  what   I  was  like.     They 

stared  at  me  in  a  frank,  natural  way. 

I   waved   my  hand  and  smiled  to  them. 

"  Buenos  dias,"  I  said. 

"  Buenos  dias.  Buenos  dias,"  said  several  of 
them.  And  then  some  of  them  came  right  into 
the  posada  to  get  a  closer  look  at  me.  My 
knapsack  claimed  especial  attention.  One  little 
girl,  with  round  blue  eyes,  examined  tlie  straps 
of  it. 


26 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


The  woman  of  the  posada  had  gone  to  get 
something  ready  for  me  to  eat,  and  I  thought  I 
would  try  and  engage  the  posadero  (the  man  of 
the  inn)  m  conversation.  He  seemed  not  un- 
wilhng^  and  we  began  to  try  to  talk  to  each 
other.  But  the  labour  was  of  too  vast  a  nature. 
We  had  to  give  it  up.  The  posadero  relapsed 
l)ack  again  into  thought,  and  began  to  roll  for 
himself  a  fresh  cigarette. 

Just  then  one  of  the  Guard ias  Civiles  came 
into  the  inn.  He  looked  at  me  closely,  and 
then  asked  me  several  (juestions  at  once.  I  did 
not  understand  his  questions,  but  I  knew  what 
their  general  drift  must  be.  He  wished  to  know 
who  and  what  I  was,  what  my  intentions  were, 
where  I  was  going,  and  if  I  were  a  person  of  a 
generally  sound  and  honourable  character. 

He  was  a  fine-looking  young  fellow,  and  was 
armed  with  a  Mauser  rifle,  a  bayonet,  and  a 
revolver.  He  wore  a  three-cornered  hat  with  a 
jjiece  of  white  linen  hanging  from  the  back  of 
it  for  protection  from  the  sun. 

I  answered  his  questions  by  producing  my 
passport.  He  held  it  upside  down  and  scanned 
it  with  much  care.  The  crowd  round  the  door 
pressed  nearer. 

The  English  passport  is  a  large,  impressive 
document.  The  man  who  designed  it  knew^ 
what  he  was  about.  It  fills  the  bill.  It  is  well 
and  clearly  printed  on  good,  thick  paper,  and  is 
a  thing  of  much  size  and  space.  It  crackles 
with  much  importance  when  it  is  being  opened 
or  flourished  in  the  air.  Even  a  Fiji  Islander 
would  know  that  such  a  document  could  only 
come  from  a  Government  of  great  weight  and 
might  and  heft. 

The  guard  handed  me  back  the  passport  and 
bowed.  And  then  I  showed  him  a  Spanish 
paper,  published  in  Seville,  in  which  was  printed 
a  couple  of  paragraphs  concerning  me.  This, 
combined  with  the  passport,  clinched  the  matter 
of  my  introduction  to  the  village.  Again  the 
guard  bowed. 

By  this  time  the  woman  of  the  posada  had 
got  something  ready  for  me  to  eat.  She 
beckoned  to  me,  and  I  went  into  a  big  room 
that  o[)ened  off  from  the  back  of  the  posada. 
But  just  as  I  got  in  it  struck  me  that  I  had  for- 
gotten something.  I  ought  to  have  invited  the 
guard  and  the  rest  of  the  people  to  eat  with  me. 
It  is  the  custom  in  Spain.  So  out  I  came  again 
and  I  invited  the  guard  and  everyone  in  sight 
to  join  mc  in  my  repast.  They  thanked  me, 
but  did  not  respond  to  my  invitation — which  is 
also  the  custom  in  Spain.  It  is  just  as  well  for 
travellers  to  remember  this  latter  part  of  the 
custom. 

The  ceiling  of  the  big  room  into  which  1  had 
been  invited  was  low,  and  tiie  floor  of  it  was 


])aved  with  small  cobble-stones.  In  fact,  the 
whole  floor  of  the  place  seemed  to  be  paved 
in  this  way.    It  was  the  first  thing  I  had  noticed. 

In  the  centre  of  the  table  upon  which  the 
meal  was  spread  was  a  small  skin  of  wine  with  a 
mouthpiece  standing  out  from  the  top  of  it.  I 
poured  some  of  it  into  the  thick  glass  that  stood 
near  my  plate.  It  was  Valdepehas — a  yellow- 
coloured  wine  tasting  like  sherry.  It  was  a  good 
wine,  but  it  had  rather  a  hard,  peculiar  flavour, 
perhaps  owing  to  being  kept  in  a  skin. 

The  rest  of  the  meal  was  composed  of  bread 
and  fried  eggs  and  ham — not  the  ham  one  gets 
in  England,  but  the  ham  of  Spain — ham  that 
tastes  like  a  cross  between  uncured,  salted 
leather  and  something  else.  Still,  on  the  whole 
the  combination  of  Valdepehas  and  bread  and 
eggs  and  ham  was  good.  Indeed,  I  have  often 
fared  much  worse.  I  have  often  in  my  time 
dined,  so  to  speak,  off  a  combination  of 
nothing. 

After  I  had  demolished  the  lot  I  asked  how 
much  the  charge  was.  (Cuanto  ?)  But  the  woman 
would  take  nothing.  I  appealed  to  the  man 
whom  I  thought  to  be  the  posadero.  But  he 
seemed  helpless  in  the  matter.  All  he  did  was 
to  shrug  his  shoulders  and  smile.  I  had 
happened  amongst  hospitable  people. 

I  then  tried  to  find  out  the  name  of  the 
village,  but  either  they  did  not  understand 
my  question  or  I  could  not  follow  the  name 
when  it  was  pronounced.  And  after  thanking 
the  woman  and  her  husband  I  picked  up  my 
knapsack  and  went  out. 

Over  on  the  other  side  of  the  road  was  the 
group  that  had  stood  outside  the  posada  when  I 
first  entered  it.  They  were  looking  at  me  and 
talking  amongst  themselves.  As  I  passed  them 
I  raised  my  hat.  The  children  of  the  grouji 
followed  me  as  I  went  on  out  of  the  village.  I 
was  honoured  with  a  rearguard. 

About  an  hour  after  this  I  came  up  with  a 
little  old  man  who  was  going  in  the  same 
direction  as  myself.  He  carried  a  folded-up 
blanket  upon  his  back,  and  at  once  I  knew  him 
for  a  tramp.  He  had  the  characteristics  that 
tramps  have  the  world  over  —  characteristics 
difficult  to  describe,  but  plain  to  the  eye  of 
experience.  The  sign  of  the  road  and  of  the 
open  air  and  of  the  instinct  to  wander  was 
written  all  over  him. 

I  was  glad  to  see  him.  Here  was  indeed  one 
who  might  turn  out  to  be  a  companion  for  me. 

I  stopped  him,  and  we  began  to  try  and  talk 
to  each  other — and,  curiously  enough,  we  in  a 
way  understood  each  other.  There  must  have 
been  some  afiinity  between  us.  But  even  if 
there  were  not,  there  was  still  the  tie  that  binds 


A    TRAMP     IX    SPAIN. 


21 


tramps    tho    world    over,      ^\'c   were   g<^ing    the 
same  way. 

His  name  was  Aquilmo.  Plus  I  soon  found 
out.  He  was  going  to  Madrid — Madrid  that 
was  off  to  the  north  more  than  four  hundred 
kilometros.  I  tried  to  find  out  wliy  he  was 
going  to  Madrid,  and  after  a  while  I  understood 
that  he  had  a  son  there. 

He  must  have  been  at  least  si.xty  years  old, 
and  his  eyes  were  brown  and  his  skin  was  very 
brown  and  very  wrinkled.  His  face  had  a 
gentle  expression  and  his  voice  was  quiet.  His 
hair  and  beard  were  white.  He  was  a  very  little 
old  man — a  little,  worn-out  old  man  whom  the 
world  did  not  want.  I  felt  very  sorry  for  him, 
and  I  determined  to  keep  him  with  nic  for  a 
while. 

I  asked  how  he  managed  with  the  dogs  on 
the  road,  and   he  gave  me  to  understand  that 
the  pcrros  (dogs)  did  not  bother 
him    much.      Perhaps    they    con- 
sidered that    he  was   not  one  to 
be  afraid  of. 

A\'e  walked  slowly  along  to- 
gether—he  with  his  blanket  and 
I  with  my  knapsack.  I  showed 
him  the  latigo  that  I  had  for  the 
dogs.  He  smiled  and  said  some- 
thing that  I  did  not  understand. 

All  around  us  on  the  road  the 
mountains  were  showing  in  the 
distance.  We  were  still  within 
the  range  of  the  Sierra  Nevada, 
W'e  would  be  in  it  for  some  time. 
And  then  we  would  pass  iiito 
another  range,  and  then  to  Jaen. 

The  country  around  looked 
lonesome.  Not  many  people  lived 
in  it.  Constant,  who  had  sur- 
veyed it,  had  told  me  that  it 
was  much  the  same  all  the  way  up 
to  Madrid.  It  was  a  country  full 
of  beautiful  colour  and  possessed 
of  a  strange  stillness  of  aspect. 
As  we  were  going  along  Aquilino 
paused  and  pointed  towards  the 
mountains  to  the  west. 

"  Aguila,"  he  said. 

I  stopped  and  looked.  Off  thcrL-,  high 
above,  a  great  bird  was  poised — an  eagle. 
It  was  a  long  time  since  I  had  seen  one. 

The  eagle  seemed  to  stay  motionless 
in  the  air.  And  then  it  began  gradually 
to  descend.  And  then  it  rose  again — 
and  went  round  slowly  in  a  circle.  And 
all  the  while  its  wings  did  not  appear  to 
move.  It  moved  as  though  impelled  by 
some  power  other  than  the  power  of 
Hight. 


Suddenly  it  swooped,  or  rather  fell — fell  so 
quickly  that  the  eye  could  not  follow  it.  A 
tragedy  was  passing  before  us.  And  then  from 
a  tree  beneath  a  bird  began  to  fly  away.  It 
flew  slowly — reluctantly—  as  if  it  had  left  its 
mate  behind. 

At  about  five  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  we 
came  in  sight  of  the  village  of  Campot^gar.  It 
stood  off  from  the  road  about  a  mile  to  the 
right  of  us,  and  I  proposed  that  we  should  go 
there  and  get  something  'to  eat.  I  was  not 
hungry,  but  I  thought  that  my  companion 
might  l)e.  He  looked  as  if  a  good  meal  would 
do  him  no  harm. 

At  first  Aquilino  did  not  want  to  come.  I 
suppose  he  was  afraid  of  the  Guardia  Civil. 
But  I  prevailed  upon  him,  and  we  cut  off  fiom 
the  road  and  on  towards  the  village. 

We  were  in   it  now — a  curious  old  Moorish- 


'  \\  I     nil)   s<ir  .\rri;AH     i  m.  .\  i  i  r  n  i  i"  >    i 


22 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


looking  village  of  narrow,  uneven  streets  and 
low,  strong-walled  houses.  It  was  a  much  larger 
place  than  the-village  I  had  been  in  last,  and  it 
looked  as  if  the  people  of  it  saw  strangers  now 
and  then,  for  we  did  not  attract  the  attention  I 
had  expected.  Even  the  Guardia  Civil  did  not 
ask  us  questions;  he  only  came  up — looked  at 
us — and  passed  on. 

We  walked  on  through  it  till  my  eye  caught 
what  seemed  to  be  the  fonda  (hotel).  I  stalked 
in  as  if  I  owned  it,  Aquilino  following  behind. 

"  Buenos  dias,"  I  said  to  a  stout-looking  man 
who  came  to  meet  me,  and  I  signed  to  Aquilino 
to  translate.  Aquilino  did  not  know  English,  but 
he  knew  what  was  wanted,  and  he  fell  in  at 
once  with  my  idea — that  he  was  to  act  as  though 
he  were  able  to  interpret  for  me.  Life  on  the 
road  sharpens  a  man's  wits. 

Thanks  to  Aquilino  things  travelled  here  in 
the  fonda  with  smoothness.  I'he  people  of  the 
place  evidently  took  him  for  my  bodyguard  and 
factotum-in-chief.  And  soon  we  were  seated  at 
a  table  discussing  the  provisions — or,  rather, 
Aquilino  was  discussing  them.  I  was  not 
hungry. 

I  watched  the  old  man  as  he  ate  without 
letting  him  see  that  I  was  watching  him.  It 
must  have  been  a  long  time  since  he  had  had  a 
proper  meal  at  a  table.  It  was  easy  to  see  that 
he  had  been  on  the  road — rough- 
ing it — for  a  long  time.  He  ate 
nearly  everything  from  his  hand. 
It  is  a  habit  into  which  a  tramp 
naturally  falls. 

I  would  have  given 
worlds  to  have  been 
able  to  talk  with  him. 
I  would  have  liked  to 
have  found  out  his 
view  -  point  of  men 
and  of  things  and  of 
the  world.  He  must 
have  had  a  j)hilosophy 
of  his  own  concerning 
life  just  as  all  men 
have  —  whether  they 
are  able  to  expre.ss  it 
or  not.  He  must  once 
have  had  ambitions, 
even  though  they 
w ere  no \\i  perhaps 
dead — this  little  old 
tramp  with  the 
brown,  wrinkled  face 
and  the  white  hair ! 
1  watched  him  as 
he  broke  his  bread 
and  slowly  ate 
it       I     noticed     the 


THE   GUARIJ    LOOKEU   AT    IT. 


change  that  gradually  came  into  his  face  as 
he  drank  his  wine.  What  could  he  be  thinking 
of?  What  memories  were  coming  up  before 
him  ?  Did  the  wine  bring  back  to  him  some 
feeling  of  the  magic  of  his  youth  ?  He  was  a 
Spaniard  and  I  was  an  Englishman.  We  were 
men  of  a  different  race.  We  could  not  exchange 
a  thought.  ^Ve  could  hardly  even  exchange  a 
word.  And  still — and  still  there  was  a  link 
between  us.  Had  he  suddenly  told  me  his 
history — in  words  that  were  clear  to  me — I  felt 
that  it  would  have  been  a  history  the  like  of 
which  I  had  known  of  before. 

Race  is  a  big  word,  but  circumstance  is  a 
bigger  word. 

We  stayed  at  the  fonda  till  the  next  morning, 
and  then  I  paid  the  bill  and  we  went  off.  To 
me  the  going  along  the  road  was  like  old  times. 
The  only  real  difference  was  that  I  was  tramping 
along  in  a  country  where  I  didn't  know  the 
language.  But  the  circumstances  were  in  a  way 
much  about  the  same,  and  I  had  a  companion 
with  me  who  was  going  the  same  way — little, 
wrinkled,  brown-faced  Aquilino. 

'Lhe  road  wound  along  through  the 
beautiful  sunlit  mountains — a  fine,  good  road 
along  which  it  was  a  joy  to  walk.  I  know  of 
nothing  better  than  walking  along  a  road 
in    the    clear,    open    sunlight. 

We  did  not  meet 
many  people,  and  the 
dogs  gave  us  little 
trouble.  Now  and 
then  we  came  upon  a 
man  of  the  Guardia 
Civil,  but  he  let  us 
pass  without  question. 
Campillo  de  Arenas. 
We  came  near  to  this 
village  towards  the 
evening,  and  the  dogs 
came  out  to  look  at 
us  ;  but  I  showed 
them  the  latigo. 

Here  there  was 
some  trouble  about 
Aquilino.  'Lhe  guard 
came  ui)  and  asked 
him  some  question, 
and  Aeiuilino  fumbled 
all  through  his 
pockets  and  at  last 
produced  a  battered- 
looking  paper.  The 
guard  looked  at  it  and 
,^  o  then  asked  him  more 
questions — and  I  was 
wondering  what  might 
happen.    Aquilino 


A     IRAMl'     l.\    SPAIN. 


looked  perturbed.  I  gathered  then  that  the 
paper  he  liad  showed  the  guard  was  a  pa[)er 
describing  luinself,  which  tlie  law  required  a 
Spaniard  to  carry.  Evidently  there  was  sonie- 
thmg  not  quite  up  to  the  mark  about  it,  or  it 
was  out  of  date.  The  guard  was  adopting  a 
stern,  judicial  sort  of  an  attitude,  perliaps  in  a 
measure  fur  the  l)enefit  of  the  people  of  the 
village  who  had  thronged  round  us. 

'liien  It  was  that  1  pulled  out  my  impressive- 
looking  passport — my  English  passport.  It  made 
a  crackling,  important  sound  as  1  flourished  it 
before  the  guard.  And  I  talked  loudly  in 
English  to  the  effect  that  Aquilmo  was  my 
servitor  and  bodyguard  generally,  and  that  I  had 
brought  him  with  me  from  Granada.  Aquilino 
also  hfted  u[)  his  voice,  and  between  the  noble- 
looking  English  passport  and  him  and  myself 
the  affair  was  settled.  What  affair  I  don't  quite 
know.  But,  anyhow,  the  guard  was  vanquished, 
lie  stepped  down  from  his  lofty  horse. 

I  liked  the  people  I  met  in  Campillo  de 
Arenas.  They  had  the  simplicity  that  country 
jK'Ople  have  the  world  over,  and  added  to  it  they 
had  the  charm  and  grace  and  lightness  of  bear- 
ing of  the  Andalusian.  There  was  nothing  of 
the  clodhopper  air  about  them,  such  as  one 
•  may  see  aljout  the  people  of  a  small  village  in 
England,  and  sj.ill  no  one  could  mistake  them  for 
anything  but  country  people.  Country  people 
with  grace.  They  seemed  somehow  different 
from  the  people  of  Campotegar.  Perhaps  Cam- 
potegar  had  upon  it  the  influence  of  Granada. 

The  accommodation  we  got  in  Campillo  de 
Arenas  was  hardly  the  best  going.  I  would  as 
lief  have  camped  out.  But  Aquilino  and  I  didn't 
mind  that  very  much.  We  were  old  cam- 
paigners. 

Jaen.  At  last  we  were  coming  towards  it. 
It  was  the  morning  of  the  day  but  one  after  we 
had  been  in  Campillo  de  Arenas.  We  saw  it 
first  through  a  gap  in  the  mountains — about 
seven  kilometros  off  from  us.  And  then  we 
lost  sight  of  it  again  in  a  bend  of  the  road. 

The  colour  of  the  soil  of  the  country  had 
now  changed.  It  had  turned  from  dark  brown 
to  red,  and  the  vegetation  was  much  stronger. 
There  was  more  life  in  the  soil — more  vigour  in 
the  earth.  We  were  still  in  a  mountain  country, 
but  the  sterility  had  gone.  The  cuunlry  behind 
u.s,  though  beautiful  to  the  eye,  had  still  a 
sterile,  unfruitful  aspect. 

It  was  a  very  old  town,  this  Jaen.  The 
Romans  had  been  here  ;  the  Moors  had  been 
here.  Its  name  had  an  odd  sound,  just  as 
"hine"  would  sound  in  English.  It  had  been 
the  scene  of  assaults  and  strife  between  oppos- 
ing races.  And  still  it  remained  here  in  the 
mountains— an  old  town. 


In  the  town  itself  there  was  an  air  ot  bustle 
and  activity,  and  the  people  looked  altogether 
different  from  the  people  of  Granada.  The 
men  looked  stronger  and  bigger,  and  they  moved 
around  with  energy.  One  felt  that  they  had 
something  to  do  in  life.  The  town  was  only 
ninety-seven  kilometros  from  (Jranada,  but  as 
far  as  the  difference  in  the  people  was  con- 
cerned it  might  have  been  a  thousand.  In 
Granada  everyone  seemed  to  be  lost  in  an 
eternal  siesta.  But  here,  in  Jaen,  the  people 
were  alive  and  awake.  It  may  have  been  the 
difference  in  the  soil  and  the  air  that  caused  it, 
but,  whatever  the  cause,  the  difference  in  the 
people  was  striking. 

I  don't  mean,  of  course,  to  suggest  that 
Granada  was  in  any  way  inferior  to  Jaen  because 
the  people  of  Granada  took  life  with  ease. 
Rather  is  it  the  other  way  about.  I  personally 
prefer  people  who  know  and  appreciate  the  full 
value  of  leisure  ;  these  hurrying,  bustling  people 
and  these  hurrying,  bustling  towns  and  nations 
by  no  means  have  the  meaning  in  the  life  of 
the  world  that  is  generally  imagined.  They  are 
but  mere  puffing  bubbles  on  the  great  river  of 
Time.  And  for  this  blessing  thanks  be  to 
Heaven.  No  ;  when  I  compare  the  people  of 
Jaen  to  the  people  of  Granada  I  am  only  telling 
of  what  came  under  my  eye — as  an  observer. 

In  some  curious  way  Jaen  suggested  — to  me 
— an  English  town.  It  was  essentially  a  Spanish 
town,  and  still  the  suggestion  of  England  was 
in  it.  As  I  walked  through  it  I  thought  of 
Richmond,  though  it  was  outwardly  in  no  way 
like  Richmond.  Indeed,  it  rather  looked  like  a 
small  Seville — a  Seville  of  uneven,  steep,  up  and 
down  streets.  In  the  middle  of  it  was  an 
immense,  irregularly  shaped  plaza.  To  the 
right  a  jagged  mountain  towered  above  it.  In 
the  distance — when  I  had  seen  the  town  first — 
this  mountain  seemed  rather  off  from  it.  But 
now  it  stood  right  up  against  the  town — close 
and  steep  and  threatening. 

Here  it  was  that  I  had  a  difference  of  opinion 
witii  Aquilino.  He  would  not  come  with  me  to 
the  hotel.  I  tried  all  the  persuasion  that  my 
limited  stock  of  Spanish  words  would  allow  ot, 
but  it  was  of  no  use.  And  then  I  tried  to  bring 
him  with  me  by  force.  Put  he  was  firm,  and 
in  the  cud  I  handed  him  three  pesetas,  with  the 
uiulerstanding  that  he  was  to  shift  for  himself, 
and  that  he  was  to  meet  me  the  next  morning 
in  the  plaza,  so  that  we  could  continue  our 
journey  north  together.  He  insisted,  however, 
on  giving  me  back  two  pesetas.  *'  Una  "  (one) 
was  enough  for  him. 

At    the    fonda   (hotel)    I    cut    rathei    .1    i'oor 


'IHE    WiDL    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


figure,  so  far  as  making  myself  understood  \vas 
concerned.  The  few  words  of  bad  Spanish  that 
I  had  picked  up  turned  out  to  be  the  merest 
reeds.  No  one  seemed  to  have  the  remotest 
idea  of  what  I  was  driving  at  whenever  I  tried 
to  ask  a  question. 

The  place  was  kept  by  a  very  nice  old  sefiora, 
who  seemed  to  take 
some  sort  of  an 
interest  in  me.  First 
I  would  ask  the 
waiter  a  tjuestion 
He  would  look 
puzzled,  and  he 
would  call  the 
other  waiter  to  the 
rescue.  He  also 
would  look  puzzled. 
Then  the  old  sehora 
—  who  sat  in  a 
great  chair— would 
be  referred  to.  To 
tell  the  truth  she 
never  looked 
puzzled  at  all,  but 
always  talked  to 
me  quickly  and  at 
length.  She  was 
kindly  disposed,  but 
unintelligible. 

The  chief  ques- 
tion I  wanted  to  ask 
was  when  dinner 
would  be  ready.  I 
was  hungry.  And 
the  mystery  of  my 
question  was  at  last 
dragged  -from  its 
lair  by  the  old  seiiora's  daughter.  I  was  told 
that  dinner  would  be  ready  at  "siete  media"  (half- 
past  seven).  After  this  1  subsided.  I  indulged 
in  no  more  questions  —  life  was  too  short. 
ICvidenlly  the  people  here  spoke  Spanish  with  a 
different  accent  from  that  spoken  in  (Canada. 

The  dinner  was  a  most  free  and  easy  affair, 
and  most  enjoyable.  The  waiters  served  it  in 
their  shirt-sleeves  and  cracked  jokes  with  the 
guests,  who  were  all  Spaniards.  I  was  looked 
upon  witli  curiosity,  and  one  of  the  waiters 
came  over  to  me  and,  after  a  while,  made  me 
understand  that  a  "cabaliero"  near  the  other 
end  of  tlie  table  wished  to  enter  into  conversa- 
tion with  me.  'I'lie  "cabaliero"  knew  English  ! 
I  smiled  and  looked  towards  the  "cabaliero" 
and  wailed  for  him  to  open  fire.  He  was  rather 
a  smart-looking  young  Spaniard. 

He   smiled  as   I   smiled,  but   he   said  nothing 


I  cur  RAi  lUvK  A   roou    1-U;UKE 

U.SUEKSrOOU    WAS 


to  me.  And  then  it  dawned  upon  me  that  he  was 
waiting  for  me  to  talk.  1  |)resume  he  wanted  to 
hear  a  sample  of  the  English  language. 

1  made  some  remark  about  the  weather,  and 
all  at  once  there  was  a  sudden  lull  in  the  con- 
versation which  was  going  round  Everyone 
became  attentive.     They  wanted  to   hear  how 

their  compatriot 
acquitted  himself 
as  a  linguist. 

The  young 
Spaniard  answered 
my  remark,  but  1 
understood  him  no 
more  than  the  dead. 
His  English  was  of 
a  make  weird  and 
curious — something 
like  myown  Spanish. 
I  pretended,  liow- 
ever,  to  have  under- 
stood him  perfectly. 
In  Spain  politeness 
is  as  necessary  as 
salt  is  to  an  egg. 

"Bueno  Ingles" 
(good  English)  I 
said.  He  under-' 
stood  what  I  meant 
and  he  looked 
pleased.  Indeed, 
everybody  at  table 
looked  pleased. 
Their  compatriot 
had  acquitted  him- 
self with  honour.  I 
had  said  the  tactful 
thing. 

During  dinner  this  young  man  enlivened  me 
with  his  conversation.  He  seemed  to  burn 
witii  the  desire  to  tell  me  a  number  of  things. 
He  would  address  a  cryptic  remark  to  me  in 
alleged  English,  to  which  I  would  reply  m 
I'^nglish.  After  each  reply  I  would  wind  up 
witli  the  compliment  in  Spanish  ("  Bueno 
Ingles  ")  upon  his  high  linguistic  attainment. 

As  the  dinner  got  towards  its  end  I  found 
myself  becoming  a  favourite — rapidly  attaining 
to  j)opularity.  Even  the  waiters  began  to  beam 
brolherliness  upon  me.  I  do  believe  that  I 
could  have  got  credit. at  that  fonda.  Such  is  the 
power  of  politeness  —  in  Spain. 

When  my  linguistic  friend  arose  from  the 
table  he  said  "Good  night  1  "  These  were  the 
only  two  words  of  his  that  I  understood,  and  I 
was  not  sorry  to  hear  them.  His  conversation 
was  getting  to  be  rather  a  strain. 


\>/mW1CK  GoBLRl 


so    l-AK    AS    MAKING    MVSEIK 
CONCEK.NEl). 


( 7'o  lie  continued.) 


Hunting   the 

Giant  Tortoise. 

Bv  Frederic  Hamilton. 

An    account    of    the   expedition    dispatched   by   the    Hon.   Walter    Rothschild   to   the  Galapagos    Islands 
in  quest  of  the  last   survivors  of  a  prehistoric    race  of  monster  tortoises. 


OME  .seven  hundred  and  thirty  miles 
we.st  of  the  coast  of  Ecuador,  the 
South  American  State,  hes  a  group 
of  rugged  islands  of  volcanic  origin 
known  as  the  Galapagos  group.  They 
are  situated  far  out  of  the  beaten  track  of  the 
ocean  traffic,  and  are  conse(]uently  but  seldom 
visited.  Under  these  circumstances,  therefore, 
it  is  small  wonder  that  very  little  is  known  about 
them,  and  that  they  are  practically  a  closed  book 
to  all  but  a  select  few.  Yet  these  islands  are  of 
great  interest  and  value,  since  they  form  a  con- 
necting link  between  the  animal  life  of  the 
twentieth  century  and  prehistoric  times. 

On  these  islands  are  found  the  famous  giant 
tortoises,  which  often  weigh  some  four  hundred 
pounds  apiece  and  are  re- 
markable for  their  longevity, 
many  of  them  being  over  two 
hundred  years  old  ;  one  in 
Lord  Rothschild's  collection 
is  at  least  three  hundred  and 
fifty  years  old. 

These  huge  monsters  are 
the  only  living  descendants 
in  direct  line  from  the  dino- 
saurs of  the  reptilian  age, 
and  consequently  constitute  a 
valuable  prize  to  the  naturalist. 
In  no  other  known  island  on 
the  globe  are  they  to  be 
found,  and  probably  it  is  the 
[)ractical  inaccessibility  of 
these  islands  that  has  preser- 
ved them  to  the  present  day, 
though,  unfortunately,  they 
are  very  scarce  and  promise 
to  become  extinct  altogether 
in  the  near  future.  When 
Charles  Darwin,  the  famous 
savant,  visited  the  ( lalapagos  group  during 
his  voyage  round  the  world,  the  islands 
were  overrun  with  the  creatures.  The  author 
of   "The   Origin    of   -Species"  was    greatly    in- 

Vol.  xi.-4. 


MR.    FKA'.  K     II.    \',  I 
"  AI.TKK  Ki'  1  llsClii...  I    . 
TION    OK    THK 

I'lom  a  Photo,  by 


terested  in  the  animals,  and  spent  much  time 
in  studying  their  habits,  haunts,  and  life. 

Since  Darwin's  visit,  however,  the  numbers  of 
the  tortoises  have  been  greatly  decimated,  and 
now  only  a  comparative  few  remain.  In  order 
to  preserve  a  selection  of  the  best  of  these 
remaining  links  of  a  bygone  race  the  Hon. 
Walter  Rothschild,  who  is  an  enthusiastic  natur- 
alist, organized  a  special  expedition  in  1896  to 
visit  the  Oalapagos  Islands,  to  secure  some 
specimens  to  enrich  his  e.xtensive  and  valuable 
zoological  collection  at  Tring  Park.  The  work 
was  entrusted  to  Mr.  Frank  B.  Webster,  the 
well-known  naturalist  and  taxidermist  of  Hyde 
Park,  Massachusetts,  U.S.A.  When  I  visited 
Mr.  Frank  B.  Webster,  on  behalf  of  The  Wide 
World  Magazine,  to  secure 
an  account  of  his  work  he 
was  sorting  out  some  speci- 
mens of  the  tortoise  from  a 
large  collection  in  a  field 
adjoining  his  domicile,  which 
is  a  combined  residence, 
workshop,  and  museum.  He 
gave  me  an  account  of  the 
journey  in  the  following 
^^  words  :  — 

^  ^^^  "  When  I   received  the  re- 

quest from  the  Hon.  \\alter 
Rothschild  to  organize  an 
expedition  to  visit  the  islands 
I  was  somewhat  dul)ious  of 
success,  for  it  appeared  to 
me  a  question  as  to  whetlier 
the  tortoises  had  not  already 
been  exterminated.  I'here 
are  about  a  dozen  islands  in 
all  composing  the  Oalapagos 
group,  ami  they  belong  to 
Ecuador.  Only  one  or  two 
of  them  are  inhabited.  One,  Chatham  Island,  is 
practically  controlled  by  Senor  Manuel  Cobos, 
who  has  some  three  hundred  slaves  under  him 
— people  who  have  been  deported  from  Ecuador 


KXI'KUITION. 

tialdwin  Coolidge. 


26 


THE     WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


by  the  Ecuadorian  Government  for  various 
offences,  so  that  it  is  to  all  intents  and  purposes 
a  penal  settlement.  Charles  Island,  another  of 
the  group,  is  inhabited  by  a  small  colony 
headed     by    an     Englishman,    but     none     of 


MK.   WEBSTER  S   COLLll   ll'N    >iF    TORTOISES   AT    HYDE    l-ARK,    MASSACHUSETTS. 

From  a  Photo. 


the  people  are  slaves.  The  remaining  islands 
are  desolate  and  uninhabited,  though  it 
appeared  that  at  various  times  efforts  had 
been  made  to  colonize  and  develop  them, 
since  cattle,  horses,  goats,  pigs,  and  dogs  run 
wild  in  great  numbers,  especially  on  Albemarle 
Island,  the  largest  of  the  group,  which  is  some 
one  hundred  and  twenty  miles  long  and  ranges 
from  twenty  to  thirty  miles  in  width.  The 
character  of  the  islands  is  very  bold,  consisting 
of  numerous  extinct  volcanoes,  the  broken  lava- 
covered  sides  and  craters  of  which  are  covered 
with  an  almost  impenetrable  growth  of  thorn 
bushes  and  cactus,  woven  with  vines,  with  a  few 
fertile  spaces  here  and  there.  There  are  few 
beaches,  as  the  cliffs  rise  abruptly  and  pre- 
ci[)itou.sly  from  the  sea,  affording  few  favourable 
anchorages,  while  the  tides  run  very  strongly, 
so  that  it  is  a  difficult  matter  to  bring  a  vessel 
in  very  close  to  the  shore.  Chatham.  Island  is 
the  only  one  in  an  advanced  state  of 
cultivation,  and  is  about  the  only  place  where 
water  can  be  obtained.  Although  directly 
under  the  Equator,  the  temperature  on  the 
i.slands,  owing  to  their  high  elevation,  is  very 
even  and  comparatively  cool,  averaging  about 
seventy  degrees  all  the  year  round.  Taken  on 
the  whole,  therefore,  you  see  it  was  rather  an 
inhos[)itabIe  spot  to  visit,  and  my  mission  was 
rather  an  arduous  and  risky  one. 

"Still,  I  didnot  despair  of  achieving  partial,  if 


not  complete,  success.  I  decided  that  the  only 
way  to  carry  out  the  task  was  to  make  a 
thorough  and  methodical  investigation  of  the 
islands.  I  submitted  my  proposals  to  the  Hon. 
Walter  Rothschild,  and  he  ordered  me  to  go 

ahead.  I  gath- 
ered together  a 
party  of  five  ex- 
perienced men, 
consisting  of  Mr. 
C.  M.  Harris,  a 
taxidermist,  and 
Mr.  O.  E.  Bul- 
lock and  Mr. 
George  Nelson, 
to  act  as  his 
assistants;  to- 
gether with  Cap- 
tain Robinson, 
navigator,  and 
Mr.  James  Cor- 
nell, mate.  The 
expedition  was 
amply  equipped 
with  everything 
necessary,  and  in 
the  middle  of 
March,  1897, 
the  party  started  on  their  journey.  I  in- 
structed them  to  sail  from  New  York  to  Colon, 
cross  the  Isthmus  of  Panama  to  Panama  City 
on  the  Pacific  Coast,  and  there  charter  a  suitable 
craft  to  reach  the  island,  some  nine  hundred 
miles  distant.  On  the  arrival  of  the  expedition 
at  Panama  City,  when  it  was  known  they 
required  a  vessel  every  possible  obstacle  was 
thrown  in  the  way  to  prevent  their  procurmg 
one,  exce[)t  at  a  price  far  above  the  value  of 
the  miserable,  undersized  hulks  that  were  avail- 
able. They  were  delayed  in  a  most  provoking 
manner  for  nearly  three  weeks,  and  to  crown 
their  troubles  the  curse  of  that  region — yellow 
fever  —  appeared  among  them  and  wrought 
terrible  havoc.  Captain  Robinson  contracted 
the  disease  and  succumbed  in  a  few  hours. 
Bullock,  one  of  the  assistants  to  Harris,  insisted 
on  returning  to  New  York,  as  he  took  fright 
at  the  appearance  of  the  plague.  Harris 
procured  him  a  passage,  and  he  started 
for  home  in  good  spirits.  But  the  fearful 
malady  was  upon  him,  and  although  he 
reached  New  York  he  died  in  quarantine  the 
next  day.  Meantime  Harris  had  cabled  me 
of  his  difficulties  in  obtaining  a  ship  and  the 
news  of  the  di.saster  to  his  party.  I  immediately 
replied,  instructing  them  to  proceed  at  once 
northwards  to  San  Francisco,  and  there  start  for 
the  Galapagos  Islands.  But  misfortune  still 
dogged    their   footsteps.      The   mate,    Cornell, 


J 


HUXTIXd     THE    (ilANT    TORTOISE. 


27 


SOME   OF   THE   MEMBERS   OF   THE    FIRST   EXPEDITION — IT    MET 

From  a]  living  to  return  home. 

died  while  on  the  way  to  San  Francisco  and 
was  buried  at  sea.  Harris  and  Nelson  reached 
San  Francisco  without  mishap,  sole  survivors 
of  the  ill-fated  party,  but  Nelson  had  passed 
through  enough  terrible  experiences,  and  upon 
arrival  at  the  Californian  seaport  took  the  first 
train  home.  Harris,  however,  was  made  of 
sterner  mettle.  Nothing  daunted,  he  stayed  at 
San  Francisco  and  telegraphed  to  me  :  '  Send 
me  a  new  party,  so  that  I  can  start  at  once.' 

"  Although  my  first  attempt  to  reach  the  Gala- 
[)agos  tortoise  had  resulted  in  such  disaster, 
I  gathered  together  new  assistants  for  the 
undaunted  Harris  with  all  possible  speed. 
I  dispatciied  Mr.  G.  D.  Hull  and  Mr. 
F.  P.  Browne,  both  New  England  men,  to  San 
Francisco,  and  also  a  man  named  Beck  from 
California.  While  I  was  reorganizing  the  expe- 
dition Harris  had  not  been  idle.  He  had 
chartered  a  small  schooner,  the  LiVci  and  Mattie, 
commanded  by  Captain  Linbridge,  and  on 
June  2 1  St,  1897,  the  second  party  passed 
through  the  Golden  (iate,  ninety  days  after  the 
start  of  the  first  expedition,  e7t  route  for  the 
Galapagos  Islands. 

"On  July  25lh  Culpepper,  the  first  of  the 
grouj),  loomed  up  in  sight.  Duncan,  a  small 
islet  only  three  miles  in  diameter,  overlooked 
probably  owing  to  its  small  size  by  previous 
tortoise  marauders,  was  the  first  to  yield  a 
specimen.  The  party  climbed  a  mountain  and 
passed  over  its  dangerous  peak  down  some  two 
hundred  and  fifty  feet  into  the  crater.     Signs  of 


tortoises  were 
soon  discovered, 
and,  following  up 
these  trails,  the 
parly  came  across 
a  herd  of  more 
than  thirty  of  the 
creatures.  After 
twenty  days'  hard 
labour  they  were 
safely  stowed  be- 
tween the  decks 
of  the  little 
schooner.  It  was 
no  mean  task  con- 
veying some  of 
these  huge  mon- 
sters from  their 
haunts  to  the 
vessel.  Several  of 
the  mountains 
exceed  four 
thousand  feet  in 
height.  When  a 
tortoise  was  dis- 
covered he  was 
strapped  securely  to  two  poles,  one  on  each 
side,  by  which  the  men  lifted  and  carried 
the  creature.  In  the  case  of  the  largest  speci- 
mens two  other  poles  were  lashed  at  right  angles 
to  the  first  two,  so  that  more  men  could  lend  a 
hand.  Some  of  the  reptiles  were  found  in  such 
inaccessible  places  that  it  was  found  impossible 


7    -- 

t^f^ 

T^ 

w 

\     - 

i 

• 

'\^ 

^^\m 

H 

JZ 

m^ 

~    Si 

|Ky  tffl 

■■% 

i.  V  -^ 

1_ 

— 

_j_ 

<nL       1 

^H    \ 

^^K'^ 

L 

^^^^A 

1 

^^^Hl 

^^^V 

^^^^^^p 

rflv 

«&"" 

^Hf 

1^ 

■ 

k 

* 

WITH    DISASTER,    ONLY    TWO    MEN 

\Pll0t0. 


c 

X 

^ 

^ 

^- 

f     ■ 

^ 

V 

■MK.    L.     M.     HAKKI-.,     l.KAHh.K    Ml-      Wit.    .--hCOSU    tX  11  " '  '  l""-'- 

From  a  Photo,  by  L.  Monaco. 

to    secure    them,    and    the    jiri/es    had    to    be 
abandoned. 

"The  specimens  sccun-d  by  the  party  on 
Duncan  Island  were  the  Testiido  ephiN'iutn, 
the   special    feature   of  which    is  a  long   shell, 


28 


THE    WIDE    WORLD     ^^AGAZINE. 


A     MIDDAY     REST- 

From  a\ 


smooth  plates,  with  narrow  rising  in  front. 
Hitherto  only  two  specimens  of  this  creature 
had  been  secured,  and  they  are  mounted  in  the 
museum  at  Edinburgh  and  Tring  Park  respec- 
tively. The  party  scoured  Duncan  Island  from 
end  to  end  and 
thought  they  had 
secured  every 
specimen,  but  in 
this  they  were 
mistaken,  since  a 
few  more  were 
obtained  by  a  sub- 
sequent exploring 
party. 

"Island  after 
island  failed  to 
yield  a  prize  until 
Albemarle  was 
reached,  and  from 
this  island  were 
taken  the  same 
number  as  from 
Duncan.  They 
varied  from  thirty 
pounds  to  two 
hundred  pounds  in  weight  and  from  forty  to 
one  hundred  and  fifty  years  in  age.  At  the 
time  they  were  supposed  to  be  of  the  variety 
Testudo  vicina,  but  when  the  Hon.  Walter 
Rothschild  examined  them  later  he  found  them 
to  be  Testudo  elephantopiis.  The  feature  of  this 
latter  variety  is  a  round  shell  with  low  opening 
in  front,  and  the  shell  -  plates  finely  marked 
almost  to  the 
centre. 

"Two  days 
after  Christmas 
Day,  1897,  the 
Lila  and  Mattie 
hove  anchor  for 
the  last  time  and 
sailed  for  home. 
San  Francisco 
was  reached  on 
February  8th, 
1898,  wiili  about 
sixty  living  tor- 
toises. 'I'  h  e 
handling  of  the 
reptiles  during 
the  voyage  was 
one  of  the  most 

difficult  parts  of  the  undertaking,  but  few  deaths 
occurred  during  the  passage.  The  party  covered 
no  fewer  than  twelve  thousand  miles  by  water, 
which  testifies  to  the  thoroughness  with  which 
the  hunt  for  the  tortoises  was  carried  out.  The 
party  experienced  many  exciting  episodes  in  the 


■OBSERVE     THE     TORTOISE     STRAPPED     TO     POLES, 
CARRYING. 


READY      FOR 
{Photo. 


A    GIANT   TORTOISE    FOUND   ON   TOP   OF   A    MOUNTAIN    AT    DUNCAN    ISLAND. 

From  a  Photo. 


course  of  their  investigations,  the  gales  at  times 
being  so  fierce  that  it  seemed  as  if  the  little  craft 
could  not  possibly  weather  them. 

"  The    tortoises  were  transported   by  railway 
fr(Mn  San  Francisco  to  my  zoo   at  Hyde  Park, 

under  the  super- 
intendence of  Mr. 
Harris.  As  the 
weather  was  un- 
settled at  the  time 
of  their  arrival  they 
were  placed  in  the 
main  room  of  the 
m  u  s  e  u  m ,  and 
whenever  the  sun 
was  shilling  were 
carried  out  byhand 
into  the  yard  for 
a  few  minutes' 
sunning.  On  Julv 
5th  I  sailed  for 
London  with  fifty- 
six  specim  ens, 
and  delivered  them 
to  the  promoter 
of  the  expedition, 
the  Hon.  Walter  Rothschild,  and  they  were 
placed  in  the  Tring  Park  collection.  The 
Hon.  Walter  Rothschild  defrayed  the  entire 
cost  of  the  expedition,  which  amounted  to 
several  thousand   pounds. 

"  In  the  following  year,  1899,  Captain 
Noyes,  a  well-known  Californian  seal-hunter, 
sailed  from  San  Francisco  en  route  to  the  Gala- 
pagos Islands  in 
(juest  of  seal  fur. 
.Stopping  at  Dun- 
can and  Albe- 
marle he  found 
on  the  former 
four  tortoises, 
which  Mr.  Har- 
ris's previous 
party  had  failed 
to  discover,  and 
on  Alhemnrle 
Island  he  dis- 
covered, in  a  new 
and  unexpected 
haunt,  a  further 
thirteen  of  the 
creatures  of  the 
true  vidua  antl 
a  few  of  the  Testudo  niicrophyes  varieties. 
Captain  Noyes  took  them  to  San  I'Yancisco,  in 
the  public  gardens  of  which  they  were  exhibited. 
But,  unfortunately,  all  but  six  of  the  collec- 
tion   died    from    the     effects    of    the     journey 

iialf-dozen    1 


and    exposure.       The 


remammg 


HUNTixc;    11  ii:  liiAxr    loRrcjisK. 


20 


I  HI-.     HK.W  lb;>  I       I  Ilk  I  .  'ISF. 


-,  r    III   \<AM     IM.ANlJ 

J'roni  a  Photo. 


secured  for  the  Hon.  ^^'alter  Rothschild,  who 
kept  them  in  the  warm  until  the  suitable 
season  arrived  to  enable  them  to  be  shipped 
to  the  Atlantic  coast.  They  were  dispatched 
by  a  fast  passenger  train  to  Boston  at  a  cost 
of  seventy-six  pounds  for  their  fare,  and  thence 
shipped  to  London.  Two  of  them  were  huge 
monsters,  weighing  about  three  hundred  and 
fifty  pounds  apiece,  and  over  two  hundred  and 
fifty  years  of  age.  When  they  stood  on  the 
ground  these  two  creatures  could  easily  eat 
from  the  hand  when  outstretched  four  feet 
above  the  ground,  from  which  a  comprehensive 
idea  of  their  size  may  be  gathered. 

"In  1900  Captain  Noyes  went  on  another 
expedition  to  the  Galapagos  group. 
He  made  another  searching  in- 
vestigation for  tortoises  upon 
1  )uncan  Island,  but  only  found 
four  specimens,  which  fact  caused 
him  to  remark  to  me,  'I  do  not 
think  any  more  will  be  found.' 
At  Albemarle  Island  Captain 
Noyes  had  better  luck,  for  he 
caught  nineteen  more,  and,  satis- 
fied with  the  result  of  his  labours, 
he  returned  to  San  Francisco.  In 
this  last  catch  Captnin  Noyes  had 
beaten  the  record,  for  right  up  in 
the  mountains  of  Albemarle 
Island,  about  two  miles  from  the 
coast,  he  found  old  patriarchs  ex- 
ceeding in  weight  and  size  the 
monsters  of  his  previous  catch. 

"They  were  found  in  the  most 
difficult    places,    where     it    took 


sixteen  men  twelve  days 
to  get  them  cnit.  When  1 
arriVL-d  at  the  port  cjI 
arrival  I  at  once  made 
ariangements  for  their 
transportation  from  San 
Francisco  to  Hyde  Park, 
and  nine  of  the  largest 
were  to  be  dispatched  to 
London  for  the  Hon. 
Waller  Rothschild's  collec- 
tion. During  this  journcv 
a  most  exasperating  inci- 
dent occurred,  which  re- 
sulted m  the  death  of  the 
finest  specimen.  After 
some  three  thousand 
miles'  run  across  the 
continent  without  mishap 
or  delay,  the  railway  car 
containing  the  curious 
passengers  was  detained 
by  a  petty  railway  official 
for  several*  hours.  It  was  an  exceptionally  hot 
day  ;  the  temperature  in  the  car  was  one  hundred 
degrees.  Horses  were  dro[)ping  in  the  streets 
under  the  influence  of  the  terrific  heart,  and  two 
of  the  largest  tortoises  could  not  stand  it.  They 
succumbed,  and  thus  London  was  deprived  of 
seeing  the  largest  tortoise  ever  brought  from  the 
Galapagos  Islands.  It  weighed  five  hundred 
pounds — nearly  a  quarter  of  a  ton — was  four 
feet  ten  inches  in  length,  and  over  four  hundred 
years  old.  The  creature  has  been  stuffed  and  is 
to  be  dispatched  to  London.  Seven,  including 
a  new  variety,  sent  to  London  reached  their 
destination  safely. 

"  One  of  this  batch — approximately  a  hundred 


—  I  1      Whh.HKl)    2lXJl.ll. 


3<^ 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


THE    LARGEST  TORTOISE    EVER    BROUGHT    FROM   THE     ISr.ANDS — IT 

From  d\  over  four  hundred  years  old. 

years  old — I  was  obliged  to  kill  at  Hyde  Park, 
and  I  seized  this  opportunity  of  tasting  the  flesh 
of  the  reptile,  since  it  is  claimed  by  sailors  that 
the  flesh  of  these  tortoises  is  a  great  delicacy, 
and  I  wished  to  satisfy  myself  on  the  point.  I 
cut  several  steaks  from  what  I  deemed  the  best 
part  of  the  reptile's  body  and  broiled  them  over 
a  fire.  With  a  little  salt  and  butter  we  truly 
found  that  the  flavour  was  all  that  had  been 
claimed  for  it.  The  grain  was  like  that  of 
venison,  but  the  taste  was  much  sweeter. 
Notwithstanding  the  comparatively  great  age 
of  the  creature  its  flesh  was  quite  tender. 
How  it  would  be  with  one 
four  hundred  years  old  I  cannot 
tell. 

"  In  all  about  a  hundred  and 
twenty  five  tortoises  from  the  Ciala- 
pagos  Islands  have  passed  through 
my  hands,  the  great  majority  of 
which  were  for  the  Hon.  Walter 
Rothschild.  I  consider,  now  that 
these  creatures  are  so  nearly  ex- 
tinct, that  any  remaining  ones 
there  may  be  in  their  natural 
habitats  will  only  be  stragglers, 
and  will  only  be  secured  at  a 
great  expense  of  time,  hardship, 
and  money. 

"In  the  islands  the  tortoises 
feed  on  the  cactus,  thorn  bush, 
and  other  vegetation  which  grows 
in  such  profusion.  I  feed  them 
on  grass,  cabbages,  and  other  in- 
digenous foods  of  this  description. 
'I'hey  like  bananas,  ap[)lcs,  and 
oranges.  They  are  the  most  docile 
creatures  I  have  ever  handled. 
I      never     found    one     at     all      /-Xra]""    ' 


vicious,  and  personally  1 
should  say  that,  being  of  a 
tun  id  disposition,  they  have 
no  means  of  defence.  The 
shell  is  a  thin,  greyish-black 
colour,  and  is  of  no  com- 
mercial value  whatever.  They 
soon  learn  to  know  their 
keeper,  and  will  follow  him 
about  for  food. 

"The  question  will  no  doubt 
arise  with  many.  Why  should 
such  determined  efforis  have 
been  made  to  finish  a  rapidly 
expiring  race  ?  In  the  island 
the  wild  dogs  and  pigs  have 
preyed  so  extensively  on 
the  eggs  and  the  young  as 
to  stop  all  breeding,  and  so 
long  as  they  were  within  convenient  places 
the  natives  hunted  them  and  dispatched 
their  carcasses  to  the  mainland  for  food. 
Thus  only  the  creatures  who  secluded 
themselves  in  the  most  remote  places  resisted 
the  depredations  of  man  and  beast,  and 
when  they  had  expired  there  would  have 
been  no  young  to  take  their  place.  Had  it 
not  been  for  the  determined  efforts  of  the 
Hon.  Walter  Rothschild,  science  would  have 
been  left  with  but  very  few  little  known 
specimens  for  future  reference  of  what  appears 
to  be  the  last  of  a  prehistoric  creature." 


weighed    500LB.    AND  WAS 

[Photo. 


IIK     ULNCAN      ISLAM!      l(ij;lc>lMs     LAN      KAISE     THKMSKl.VKS     NKAKI.V 

FOUR    FEET    FROM    THE   GROUND.  [J'ltoto. 


A     Desert    Tragedy. 

By  Captain  A.   Hii.liard  Atteridge. 

An  authoritative  account  of  a  little  -  known  episode  —  the  murder  of  the  Marquis  de  Morfes 
in  the  "forbidden  hinterland"  of  Tripoli.  The  Marquis  had  an  ambitious  project  for  a  great  "  Franco- 
Islamic  Alliance,"  by  means  of  which  the  Khalifa  —  then  fighting  Lord  Kitchener — should  be  able 
to  hurl  back  once  for  all  the  encroaching  British.  Unfortunately  for  himself,  however,  the  gallant 
but  unpractical  visionary  "  fell  among  thieves,"  and  the  desert  tribes  whom  he  had  hoped  to 
lead    to    victory   against    the  British  turned  upon    him  and  killed  him. 


:> 


FRENCH  military  Court,  sitting  at 
Susa,  in  the  Tunis  Protectorate, 
recently  condemned  to  death  one 
of  the  murderers  of  the  Marquis  de 
Mores    and    sentenced    another   to 

twenty  years'  ini[)risonment.     The  murder  was 

committed  in  the  summer  of  1896,  and  the  two 

Arabs  had   been    nearly    four 

years  awaiting  trial,  a[)|)arently 

because  the  authorities  hoped 

from     month     to     month     to 

secure  the  arrest  of  others  of 

the    band.       De    Morbs    had 

lived     for     some     years     in 

America     and    had     married 

there.     His   widow   offered  a 

large  reward    for   the  capture 

of  his  murderers,  and  the  two 

who  have  just  been  tried  were 

entrapped  by  Arab  '-friendlies" 

in  1898. 

In   the  summer  of   1896  I 

was  on    the  Upper  Nile  with 

the  Sirdar's  army.      One  day 

I  was  discussing  with  an  officer 

of    the    Intelligence    Depart- 
ment the  desert  routes  on  the 

west  of  the  Nile.    I  asked  him 

if  it  would  be  possible  to  make 

a    journey  thiough    the    great 

oasis    and     then    across    the 

desert  to  Tripoli.     He  said  at 

once   that    for   a    white    man 

such  a  journey  would  be  about 

the    most  dangerous  march  a 

man  could  make  in  Northern 

Africa.      "  In  the  hinterland  (jf 

Tripoli,"    he    said,    "  on     the 

borders    of    the    desert,    there 

is  no  powerful   tribe  the  chief 

of    which    could    secure    the 

traveller's  safety.      There  are 

a     number     of     small    tribes, 

many  of  them  of  bad   charac- 
ter, and    the   place   is  full  of 


'  scallywags '  from  the  North  African  coast 
countries,  who  are  simply  brigands  and  outlaws. 
A  white  man  would  be  murdered  for  the  sake 
of  his  kit." 

Next  day  a  Reuter's  telegram  brought  the 
news  that  De  Mores  had  entered  this  very  tract 
of  desert  with  a  caravan  that  he  had  organized 


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MAI'  siitiwiM,  RciurE  OK    I  III;  K.\ri.ui  rioN. 


32 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


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SKETCH    MAP   Ol-     1AI;T    OK     NORTH-EAST   AFRICA    ILLUSTRATING   THE    PROJECT   OK    UE    MOR£s. 


at  Gabes,  and  that  he  hoped  to  penetrate  to 
Khartoum  and  offer  the  Khahfa  his  services 
against  the  British.  I  was  not  surprised  to  hear 
a  few  weeks  later  that  he  had  been  murdered 
by  the  lawless  brigands  of  the  hinterland. 

In  Paris  in  the  following  year  I  met  some 
French  friends  who  took  a  special  interest  in 
African  questions,  and  with  their  help  I  got  the 
details  of  the  wild  enterprise  and  tragic  end  of 
De  Mores.  He  was  a  wealthy  man,  plucky, 
adventurous,  eager  for  distinction.  He  had 
conceived  a  fantastic  dream  of  France  putting 
herself  at  the  head  of  a  great  Mussulman 
movement  to  drive  the  "  perfidious  English  " 
from  every  Moslem  land.  The  Frenchman,  the 
Arab,  the  Tuareg,  and  the  Soudanese  were  all  to 
be  allies  against  the  encroaching  Briton.  He 
would  go  to  Africa,  preach  the  new  alliance, 
and  then  cross  the  desert  to  the  Upper  Nile 
and  present  himself  to  the  Khalifa  as  the  envoy 
of  French  sympathy  with  his  cause  against  the 
invaders  of  the  Soudan.  The  fate  of  Oliver 
Pain  might  have  warned  him  of  what  he  had  to 
expect  at  the  hands  of  the  Dervishes  if  he  ever 
got  so  far. 

He  went  to  Tunis,  where  one  evening  he 
delivered  a  lecture  at  the  theatre  on  the  pro 
posed  "Alliance  Franco-Islamicjue."  At  that 
moment,  he  said,  the  English  were  moving  on 
the  Nile.  'J'he  Dervishes  were  fighting  for 
liberty.  They  had  numbers,  arms,  wealth.  All 
they  wanted  was  the  advice  and  guidance  of 
trained  officers.     Well,  let  the  watchword  of  the 


alliance  resound  from  Dun- 
kirk to  the  Upper  Nile,  and 
French  volunteers  would  soon 
find  their  way  to  the  standard 
of  the  Khalifa.  A  resolution 
was  passed  setting  forth  that 
two  thousand  Frenchmen  and 
Mussulmans  assembled  at 
Tunis  acclaimed  the  principle 
of  the  alliance,  and  sent  their 
good  wishes  to  the  Mussul- 
mans who  were  fighting  for 
liberty  on  the  Nile.  Copies 
of  the  resolution  were  to  be 
sent  to  the  French  President, 
the  Sultan,  the  Russian 
Ambassador  at  Pari.s,  Lord 
Salisbury,  and  other  eminent 
persons.  Oddly  enough,  the 
Khalifa  was  omitted  from  the 
list.  It  was  all  a  bit  of  a 
farce,  but  De  Mores  was  in 
deadly  earnest,  and,  in 
reality,  it  was  the  prelude  to 
a  tragedy. 

After  this  the  adventurer 
spent  some  weeks  at  Hammam-Lif,  near  Tunis, 
planning  this  expedition.  He  told  his  intimate 
friends  that  he  hoped  to  cross  the  desert  to 
Rhat,  in  the  Tuareg  country,  make  friends 
with  the  tribes,  and  then  visit  the  chief  of 
the  Senoussi  at  Kufra,  and  after  assuring 
his  co-opi;ration  make  his  way  to  the  camp 
of  the    Khalifa.     In    his    utter    ignorance    of 


vnX:    MAFOjLIS    Hi;    MOl;F,s,    WHO    WAS     MIRIJKKKD    IIV   THK    AKAi;b. 

J''roiii  a  I'ltoto.  by  £.  Piiou,  Paris. 


A  i)i:>i:Rr    ikAcii^hv. 


the  siiuaiiuii  in  North-East  Africa,  Dc  Mures 
does  not  appear  even  to  have  heard  that 
the  Dervish  leader  had  invited  the  cliief  of  the 
Senoiissi  to  be  his  ally,  and  that  the  latter  had 
denounced  him  as  an  impious  impostor. 

The  I'Vench  authorities  gave  him  no  encour- 
agement. On  the  contrary,  they  warned  him 
that  he  must  not  enter  the  Sahara  from  Tunisia. 
To  do  so  would  be  to  court  destruction,  and 
they  did  not  want  to  have  to  get  up  an  expedi- 
tion to  punish  the 
border  tribes  after 
the  catastrophe. 
They  would  not 
mind,  however,  his 
making  a  sim[)le 
exploring  ex[)edi- 
tion  on  the  frontier 
of  Algeria.  There 
he  had  made  friends 
of  the  Azdjer  tribes 
by  sending  them  a 
caravan  -  load  of 
flour  as  a  present 
on  hearing  that 
they  were  suffering 
from  famine.  In 
that  direction  he 
would  not  be  likely 
to  be  tempted  by 
wild  projects  of 
marching  to  Khar- 
toum. 

I'inally  he  agreed 
to  organize  his 
caravan  at  Gabes 
and  march  through 
Southern  Tunisia  to 
the  Algerian 
border.  His  friends 
lioped  he  had  been 
saved  from  himself. 

On  April  22nd 
he  parted  with  his 
American  wife, 
whom  he  sent  back 
to  France.  On 
May    6th     he    left 

Tunis  by  steamer  for  Gabes,  taking  with  him 
some  stores  for  his  caravan  and  a  number  of 
natives  he  had  engaged  to  accompany  him.  He 
only  knew  a  few  words  of  Arabic.  He  took 
witii  him  his  interpreter  and  secretary,  Abd-el 
Hak,  a  highly-educated  young  Arab,  and  as  his 
chief  guide  El-Hadj-Ali,  a  wealthy  trader,  who 
was  about  to  return  to  his  home  at  Ghadames, 
and  possessed  great  influence  with  the  desert 
tribes.  He  was  to  be  paid  ten  thousand  francs 
(four  hundred  pounds)  for  his  services. 

Vol.  xi. — 5. 


UV    IIIKEATS,    PERSUASIO.N'S,    ANO    TKOMISKS    HE    INDUCKU     IHKM    lU  GO  OS. 


At  Galjes  I  )c  Morl-s  bought  camels  and 
hired  camel-drivers.  Hcfore  he  left  the  place 
on  May  14th  he  held  a  meeting,  at  which 
he  tielivered  another  lecture,  like  liis  'I'unis 
harangue,  on  the  alliance  of  France  and  Islam. 
It  was  addiessed  to  an  audience  most  of  whom 
did  not  understand  a  dozen  words  of  French. 

He  first  marched  for  some  days  to  the  west- 
ward, as  if  he  really  meant  to  conduct  his 
caravan   to   Southern   Algeria.     On   May   23rd, 

however,  he  sud- 
denly changed  his 
route  and  turned 
to  the  south-east, 
heading  for  the 
dangerous  Tri|)oli- 
tan  hinterland. 
Possibly  it  had 
from  the  first  been 
his  intention  to  re- 
sume his  old  plan 
of  campaign  as 
soon  as  he  was 
clear  of  the  French 
frontier  posts  and 
could  not  be  for- 
cibly turned  back  ; 
or,  perhaps,  when 
he  found  himself 
in  the  desert,  his 
old  dreams  as- 
sumed an  irresis- 
tible mastery  over 
him. 

As  he  plunged 
farther  into  the  wil- 
derness his  men, 
who  knew  better 
than  he  did  the  risks 
tlieywere  incurring, 
I)  e  came  almost 
mutinous  and  pro- 
tested against  the 
change  of  route,  but 
by  threats,  persua- 
sions, and  promises 
he    induced     them 


to  go  on. 


At  the  beginning  of  June,  alter  a  trying 
march,  he  reached  the  wells  of  El  Ouatia,  about 
three  hundred  miles  from  his  starting-point. 
Here  he  halted  for  a  week.  Tuareg  and 
Ciiambaa  tribesmen  came  flocking  into  his 
camp.  He  told  them  he  had  come  as  a  friend. 
He  gave  them  presents  of  arms  and  robes,  and 
threw  gold  pieces  to  the  children.  He  talked 
to  the  chiefs  of  his  projects,  and  they  told  him 
they  would  be  glad  to  man  h  with  him  against 
the  English.     The  camels  he  had  brought  from 


34 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    .MAGAZINE. 


Gabcs  were  exliauslfd  with  the  desert  march, 
the  canicl-men  reluctant  to  go  farther ;  it  had 
been  difficult  to  bring  them  so  far.  The  chiefs 
offered  to  find  camels  and  guides  to  escort  him 
to  Rhat.  He  accepted  their  offer  and  paid 
them  a  large  sum  on  account. 

On  June  6th  De  Mores  told  his  Tunisian 
and  Tripolitan  camel-men  that  he  would  pay 
them  off  and  supply  them  with  provisions  for 
their  journey  back  to  the  Mediterranean.  He 
wrote  his  last  letters  to  France,  full  of  praises  of 
his  Tuareg  and  Chambaa 
hosts  and  of  hopes  for  his 
great  project.  Then,  of 
his  [)artyof  thirty- 
eight,  all  buteight 
left  him.  His  new 
friends  were  to 
bring  their 
camels  and  start 
for  Rhat  next 
day. 

D  e  Mores, 
happy  in  his 
dreams  of  suc- 
cessful adven- 
ture, had  no  idea 
that  the  very 
chiefs  who  were 
camped  beside 
him  were  mur- 
derers for  whom 
rewards  had  long 
been  offered  by 
the  French  fron- 
tier authorities  ; 
that  they  had 
been  lying  in 
wait  for  him  near 
the  wells  of  El 
Ouatia  for  days  ; 
that  a  few  miles 
to  east  and  west 
other  parties 
were  watching 
lest     he    should 

change  his  route  ;  that  a  rumour  had  passed 
through  the  desert  that  a  French  officer  was 
coming  with  millions  of  Government  money  on 
his  camels,  and  a  stfjre  of  arms — wealth  which 
was  to  be  had  for  the  taking.  The  tribesmen 
were  only  too  anxious  to  separate  him  from 
most  of  his  servants  whom  he  had  brought 
from  the  coast.      He  had  fallen  into  a  trap. 

On  the  night  of  Saturday,  June  6th,  the  chiefs 
sent  word  to  their  accomplices  to  the  east  and 
west  to  close  in  upon  ICI  Ouatia.  On  the 
Sunday  De  Mores  and  his  eight  men  were  alone 
in  the  midst  of  the  brigands.     He  still  suspected 


UlE   CIIIKHS    MAUIi   EXCUSES. 


nothing.  By  a  strange  chance,  that  day  when 
he  virtually  became  a  [)risoner  was  the  day  on 
which  Kitchener  fought  at  Firket  his  first  battle 
in  the  victorious  advance  up  the  Nile. 

On  the  Sunday  and  Monday  no  camels 
appeared.  The  chiefs  made  excuses.  They 
were  gaining  time  for  their  friends  to  arrive. 
On  the  Tuesday  a  few  camels  were  brought  in, 
but  without  proper  pack  saddles,  and  some  of 
the  baggage  was  plundered.  De  Mores  became 
suspicious.      He  sent   for  the  chiefs  and  told 

them  he  would  not  go . 
to  Rhat.  He  would 
be  satisfied  if  they 
would  take  his  bag- 
gage to  the  neighbour- 
ing oasis  and  town  of 
Sinaoun.  They  might 
keep  all  he  had  paid 
them  for  the  longer 
journey.  It  was  a  vain 
effort  to  escape  from 
the  trap. 

Next  day,  June  9th, 
forty-five   camels  were 
brought  in.  The  tribes- 
men had  been  largely 
reinforced,    and    their 
conduct  was    bruscjue 
and     unfriendly. 
They  loaded   up 
the  baggage  and 
started     after     a 
long  delay.       De 
Mores  rode  apart 
from  the  caravan. 
Abdel-IIak,    El- 
Hadj-Ali,    and 
two  Algerian  ser- 
vants     were     the 
nearest  to  him. 

A  few  miles 
from  the  wells 
the  line  of  march 
struck  the  beaten 
caravan  track 
from  Rhat  and  Ghadames  and  the  south-west  to 
Sinaoun  to  the  east.  The  tribesmen  turned  to  the 
right  away  from  Sinaoun.  De  Mores  called  out 
that  they  must  go  to  the  left.  There  was  a  halt, 
some  confusion  and  hesitation.  Suddenly  De 
Mor^s  saw  three  men  with  drawn  swords 
moving  stealthily  towards  him  from  a  clump  of 
scrub.  He  slipped  off  his  camel  and  drew  his 
revolver.  Tiiey  rushed  at  him,  one  coming  so 
close  ns  to  wound  him  slightly,  but  he  killed 
one  and  badly  wounded  the  two  others  with  his 
pistol,  and  tlien  tocjk  his  repeating  carbine 
from    his    saddle.      Abd-el-FIak   and    old    El- 


A    i)i:si;K'r    ri<.\(;i;i)V. 


.13 


Hadj-Ali,  true  tu  llicii 
salt,  dismounted  and 
stood  beside  him,  car- 
bines in  hand.  His 
two  Algerian  servants 
also  tried  to  reach 
him,  but  were  cut 
down  or  shot  by  the 
tribesmen  as  they  dis- 
mounted. His  other 
servants  were  over- 
powered and  made 
prisoners. 

Meanwhile,  the 
Frenchman  and  the 
two  brave  Arabs  were 
attacjced  by  some 
thirty  of  the  brigands. 
They  sold  their  lives 
dearly,  but  were  soon 
shot  down,  De  Mores 
being  the  last  to  fall, 
riddled  with  bullets. 
The  murderers  buried 
their  victims  in  the 
sand  and  then  plun- 
dered the  baggage, 
leaving  untouched, 
however,  the  property 
of  El-Hadj-Ali,  which 
tlie  chiefs  ordered  to 
be  sent  to  his  family 
at  Ghadames. 

The  surviving  ser- 
vants expected  to  be 
killed,  but  one  of  the 
Tuareg  chiefs  told 
them  that  all  who 
were  to  be  killed 
were  already  dead. 
"  You  are  mere  wage- 
earners,"  he  said  : 
"  you  may  go.''  Be- 
fore the  end  of  June 
two    of    them     had 

reached  Tripoli   and    a   third  had   l)rought   the 
news  of  the  tragedy  to  Tunis. 

So  died  De  Morbs,  a  victim  to  his  wild 
dreams  of  the  alliance  with  Islam  in  Africa.  He 
had  borne  himself  in  the  last  scene  as  befitted 
a  s(jldier  of  France.  The  |)ity  was  that  the 
dashing  officer  of  Cuirassiers  should  have  fallen 
in  so  mad  an  enterprise. 

Before  the  end  of  tlie  summer  a  party  of 
Arab     friendlies     visited     the     scene     of     the 


THEY   SOLO   THEIR    I.IVES    IJEAKLV. 


skirmish  and  brought  the  body  of  De  Mor^s 
to  the  coast,  sewn  up  in  skins  and  carried 
on  a  camel.  It  was  still  quite  recognisable, 
and  the  numerous  wounds  proved  that  the 
servants  had  not  e.xaggerateil  in  telling  the 
story  of  his  last  gallant  fi^ht.  The  body 
was  placed  in  a  coffin  and  sent  back  for 
honourable  burial  in  France.  And  now.  alter 
more  than  six  years,  tardy  justice  has  overtaken 
two  of  his  murderers. 


^r^kpimp'God. 


^^^    .^^_J  m  • 


( 


^4' 


\'I"-R\'  j^lolic  trotter  whose  wander- 
ings lead  liim  to  San  I'rancisco 
feels  in  duty  bound  to  visit  China- 
t(nvn.  It  is  one  of  the  sights  of 
that  most  cosmopolitan  city,  and  as 
such  it  has  been  carefully  fostered  by  the 
municipal  authorities  until,  like  some  tro[)ical 
plant  in  an  I'lnglish  hothouse,  it  has  lost  almost 
all  its  natural  characteristics.  The  outward 
form  remains,  'tis  true,  but  nowadays  the  gold- 
smiths' and  chemists'  sho|)s,  the  stalls  of  the 
carvers  of  jade,  the  bespectacled  Chinese  doctor 
beneath    his   canoi)y   of  stuffed   alligators,    the 


A    description    of    a    remarkable 
Chinese  community  on  the  shores 
of  San  Pablo  Bay,  near  San  Fran- 
cisco.     Its    members    live    by   fishing,    worship    a    god    of 
their   own  —  the  Shrimp  -  God    -  and  owe    allegiance    to    a 
"Queen,"    who    is    also  the  head  of  a  flourishing  "trust" 
which   exports  dried   shrimps  to  China 


opium  dens,  the  very  joss-houses  of  San  Fran- 
cisco's Chinatown  are  managed  with  a  sole  eye 
to  iicenic  effect  and  the  nimble  shilling  of  the 
ubiquitous  tourist.  Of  course,  the  show  is  well 
ordered  and  emphatically  worth  seeing  ;  but  it 
ceased  years  ago  to  be  the  real  thing. 

Yet  San  Francisco  can  boast  a  genuine 
"  Little  China "  at  her  very  door — and  the 
remarkable  thing  is  that  scarcely  one  in  every 
thousand  of  her  inhabitants  knows  of  its 
existence.  It  is  unfealured  and  unphrased  in 
that  marvel-mongering,  multi-coloured  "  tourist- 
literature  "  disseminated  gratis  by  every  Ameri- 
can railway  company,  for  no  railway  reaches  it. 
For  the  n)allcr  of  that,  neither  does  any  road. 
The  prospective  visitor  nuy  take  his  choice  of 
trundling  a  bicycle  up  and  over  sundry  hills 
that  closely  resemble  mountains,  or  walking. 

The  Chinese  villages — there  are  three  of  them 
— lie  huddled  along  the  shore  of  San  Pablo 
Bay  where  Poitit  San  Pedro  cuts  its  waters,  five 
miles  due  cast  from  San  Rafael.  They  harbour 
a  population  of  five  hundred  souls,  all  Chinese ; 


THi:    I.AM)   ()!•    I  in:   >ijkiMi' cod. 


37 


TDK    SIIKl.Sl.    OK     IHK    Sll  KIM  IH,i  il).    UlUhK    THli    VI I  l,,\l  .EK'S    Olf 

From  a\  suri'LlCATloNS  kuk  a  good  day's  catch. 

and  when  the  shrimp-fishing^which  constitutes 
the  chief  industry  of  the  community — is  par- 
ticularly good  the  population  reaches  a  thousand. 
No  white  man  lives  in  any  of  the  villages,  and, 
in  point  of  fact,  probably  less  than  3  per  cent, 
of  the  inhabitants  can  speak  a  single  word  of 
English.  In  this  sequestered  nook,  girt 
landward  by  the  rock-ribbed  mountain 
slope,  their  harvest  field, the  sea,  stretch- 
ing away  from  their  very  doorsteps, 
these  Chinamen  live  and  labour, 
governed  by  chiefs  of  their  o\vn  choos- 
ing, who  legislate,  try,  condemn,  and 
even,  it  is  said,  execute  offenders 
against  strange  laws  of  their  own 
making.  They  worship  a  god  unknown 
in  the  San  Francisco  joss-houses  —  the 
Shrimp-(iod. 

Up  the  steep  trail  we  scramble,  and 
emerging  on  the  brow  of  the  hill  from 
a  thicket  of  madrone  and  scrub-oak  we 
catch  our  first  glimpse  of  the  domain 
of  the  vShrimp-God- -a  collection  of 
ramshackle  rookeries,  sprawled  along 
the  bay  shore,  where  strange  craft  lie 
moored  to  snaky  piers.  This  is  the 
central  and  largest  village  of  the  three, 
and,  since  none  of  them  possess  names 
meaning  aught  to  Western  ears,  we 
shall  call  it  "Village  No.  2."  No.  i  is 
behind  us,  and  No.  3  lies  beyond  a 
rocky  point  in  the  background.  Those 
bare  spots  on  the  hillside  are  carpeted 
with  drying  shrimps.     Every  vestige  of       /.v^«/.'.'; 


undergrowth,  grass,  the  very  soil 
itself  has  been  laboriously  cleared 
away  by  patient  Chinamen,  who 
every  evening  scrub  and  polish  the 
naked,  sun-baked  clay  with  many 
brooms  —  for  John,  although  his 
ideas  of  sanitation  are  rudimentary, 
is  a  scrupulously  clean  person 
according  to  his  lights. 

Let  us  enter  the  long,  narrow, 
crooked  principal  street,  past  the 
(jueer  tables  of  netting  on  which 
shrimps  are  sorted,  giving  a  wide 
berth  to  some  fish,  nailed  to  boards, 
which  shriek  to  heaven  ;  but  first 
let  us  look  at  the  shrine  of  the 
tutelary  divinity  of  the  community 
—  the  Shrimp-Cod,  or,  rather,  the 
"Cod  of  the  Little  Fishes,"  for 
according  to  Chinese  natural 
history,  all  marine  organisms,  from 
the  oyster  to  the  whale,  are  fish. 

Before  this  little  shrine — there 
is  one  on  the  outskirts  of  each 
village  —  the  hardy  shrimp- 
fishers  gather  long  before  dawn,  pour  their 
libation  of  rice  brandy  into  one  of  the  three 
tiny  porcelain  tea-cups,  kindle  a  punk-stick  and 
place  it  reverently  in  the  sand  in  the  bronze- 
mounted  vase,  and  while  it  smoulders  prostrate 
themselves  upon  the  platform  shown  in  the  fore- 


EU  ui'  Tin-: IK 

{FItoto. 


IO<,KAFIIKI>,   AMI    H  H'    «MfN 


lit   .■..\«      MIL    lA.MKKA. 


\rii0lir. 


3« 


THE    WIDE     WORLD     MAC.AZINE. 


ground  of  the  photograph 
and  offer  up  their  supplica- 
tions for  a  good  day's  catch. 
The  last  thing  at  night, 
after  the  shrimps  and  fish 
are  sorted,  the  largest  and 
best  are  laid  on  the  shrine 
behind  the  vase,  and  hither 
steals  the  lank  priest 
through  the  darkness  and 
bears  them  away,  for  they 
are  his  perquisite,  altiiough 
no  man  may  see  him  take 
them. 

On  the  preceding  page 
we  see  the  gentleman  him- 
self m  airy  garb— a  shrimp- 
pink  blouse  of  watered  silk 
and  knickers  of  lavender 
damask.  He  is  not  the 
least  bit  glad  to  see  us 
either,  and  when  he  spies  the 
camera  he  emits  a  screech 
andscurries behind  the  build- 
ings and  across  the  drying- 
grounds  like  a  frightened 
rabbit.  He  is  an  important 
personage,  priest  and  governor  rolled  into  one, 
and  also  physician,  as  the  herbs  growing  in  his 
quaint  little  net-covered  garden  testify. 

But   who   is    this   handsome  and    intelligent 


lillS     GENII. EMAN      IS     THE 
AGENT,     AND     LIVING 

From  a\  shrimp 


makes  the  round  trip  to 
San  Francisco's  Chinatown, 
and  returns  laden  with 
bundles  of  goods  and  all 
the  latest  news  and  gossip 
— shark-fins  for  the  priest 
and  birds'  nests  for  the 
Queen  of  Village  No.  3, 
whose  appetite  must  be 
pampered  ;  the  latest  ordi- 
nance of  His  Imperial 
Majesty  the  Son  of  Heaven 
and  Brother  of  the  Sun  and 
Moon  ;  the  winning  num- 
bers in  the  big  lottery ; 
what  crazy  schemes  the 
"foreign  devils"  are  con- 
cocting now  to  make  John 
a  cleaner  but  poorer  man  ; 
the  personal  character, 
private  income,  and  get- 
at-ableness  of  the  last - 
ap[)ointed  Chinatown 
policeman  ;  and  where 
the  gasoline  launch  of 
those  children  of  evil,  the 
Fish  Commissioners, 
is  cruising   at    present. 

Everywhere  we  go  there  are  ducks  and  cats, 
all  on  terms  of  the  closest  intimacy.  What 
feeds  they  have  when  the  shrimp-fishers  return 


rARCEL-FosT,     rri.i-  ii.\  ,i 

NF.WSPAI'EK     OI-"    THE 
VILLAGES.  [Photo. 


TIIK    CORHUCArED    K 


.Ij    I  l>K    KE.MOVING    THE   SHELLS    I- KU.M    THE    SHKl.MIS. 

From  a  Photo. 


gentleman  running  towards  us,  waving  his 
arms  and  jabbering  pigeon-English  thirteen 
to  the  dozen  ?  He  is  the  parcel-post,  the 
purchasing  agent,  the  living  newspaper  of 
these  strange  conununities.     Thrice  a  week  he 


at    nightfall  !      No   wonder  that    ihiy    look    so 
sleek  and  fat ! 

What  are  these  curious-looking,  corrugated 
rollers?  Well,  after  the  shriin[)s  are  sorted  and 
parboiled    they    are    sun-cured    on    the    drying- 


Till';     I.AM)     ul       1111::     SllKIMl^liuD. 


39 


ri 


-   <M»^.»^^g^^«Wa«M 


«r»'% 


"ASIA   VERSUS   AMERICA'' — THE    VILLAGE   JUNK    RACES   THE   SCHOONER. 

From  a  Photo. 


grounds  and  then  rolled  with  these  rollers  to 
remove  the  shells.  They  are  next  pounded 
into  meal,  packed  in  baskets,  and  wheeled  on  a 
narrow  barrow  along  the  rickety  pier  to  the 
junk,  which  bears  them  to  San  Franci.sco. 
There  they  are'  reshipped  on  a  Pacific  liner  to 
China,  for,  as  the  village  Mercury  phrased  it, 
"Slimpee,  him  yelly  lare  in  China  !  " 

Here  is  a  race^Asia  versus  America — and 
Asia  wins  !  The  junk  has 
distanced  the  scow- 
schooner  and  is  bearing 
in  shore.  Now  she  is 
lying  at  her  wharf,  with 
her  sail  housed.  Let  us 
board  her.  Isn't  she  a 
staunch  craft  ?  Her  tim- 
bers are  ten  inches  thick 
and  she  boasts  twcj  water- 
tight transverse  bulkheads 
—  a  Chinese  invention, 
by  the  way,  as  old  as 
ConhuMus.  Every  stick 
of  her  was  fashioned  and 
fabricated  in  the  village 
here.  There  isn't  a  single 
nail  in  her — all  wooden 
pegs  !  Her  cordage,  too, 
was  woven  here,  on  that 
queer  machine  that  we 
passed  at  the  rear  of  the 
buildings,  and  her  stone 
anchor  was  quarried  from 
that  hill  beyond. 

We  ask  the  skipper  if        F>v,n.i\ 


his  vuyage  has  been  a  prosperous 
one.  It  has.  A  <iuick  hun.eward 
run  from  San  Irancisco?  A  fair 
average  run  — twenty  miles  in  nine- 
teen hours  !  But  then  John 
Chinaman  is  never  in  a  hurry. 

We  wander  off  through  the 
village,  past  tumble-down  houses 
placarded  with  signs  of  red  paper, 
the  lintel  festooned  with  gaudy 
calico,  while  to  each  door-post  is 
nailed  an  old  baking-powder  tin 
containing  sand  and  punk-sticks  ; 
for  does  not  the  law  say  that  no 
man  may  enter  a  dwelling  unless 
he  burns  incense  upon  the  thres- 
hold to  the  ancestral  gods  ?  Here, 
sitting  in  the  sun,  is  an  old  man 
weaving  baskets,  and  there,  just 
beyond,  is  a  man  with  something 
in  his  hand,  leaving  a  rather  pre- 
tentious building.  Surely  that  can 
be  nothing  else  than  a  Chinese 
lottery  -  ticket  ?  Its  shape  and 
colour  betray  it.  We  are  right,  it  is  ;  and  the 
building  is  the  lottery-shop— for  John  would 
gamble  if  he  were  at  death's  door. 

It  is  a  toilsome  climb  to  the  graveyard  in  a 
grove  of  eucalyptus  on  the  crest  of  the  bluff 
Here,  in  the  scant  acre  of  the  Shrimp-Cod, 
slumber  his  quondam  worshippers,  but  not  for 
long.  Three  years  is  the  limit.  Three  years  of 
peaceful  sleep  beneath  waving  eucalyptus  fronds, 


A    ClilNESE    KOrE-WALK. 


\rh0lO. 


40 


THE     WlDi:    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


wild  oats,  and  eschscholtzias,  and  thc-ii  one  day 
the  lank  priest  conies,  and  to  tlie  beatmg 
of  many  gongs  and  the  burning  of  mucli  in- 
cense  the     mouldering    remains   are   dug   up, 


httle  attraction  for  hini.  He  will,  however,  stint 
himself  all  his  years  to  keep  his  bones  fully 
assured,  so  that  when  death  overtakes  him  he 
may  know  that  they  will  tnid  their  final  resting- 


J-'j  oiii  a 


A    SIKEKl    S^ENE    ]  X     I  11 E    I'lilNCll'AL    Ml.LAGE. 


\  Photo. 


boxed  in  empty  fiie-gallon  coal-oil  cans,  and 
transported  per  junk  to  the  city,  where 
they  are  invoiced  and  shipped  by  steamer 
to  China.  Eor  if  it  were  done  otherwise, 
as  every  Chinaman  knows,  the  poor  soul  would 
surely  lose  itself  in  the 
limitless  realms  of  celes- 
tial space  and  go  wander- 
ing helplessly  through  all 
eternity.  'I'he  Pacific 
steamship  companies 
know  all  this  as  well  as 
any  Chinaman,  and  with 
provident  forethought 
have  arranged  their  tariff 
to  meet  John's  views  as 
to  the  only  desirable  place 
of  sepulture.  "Miscel- 
laneous—Chinese bones " 
figures  on  every  way-bill, 
and  the  uniform  rate  for 
the  voyage  is  two  guineas 
per  petroleum  tin  !  John 
is  far  too  practical  to 
insure  his  life.  He  will 
gamble  until  cock-crow, 
but  the  beauties  of  a 
game  where  one  must  die 
to  win  anything  have  but 


place  within  the  mud-walls  of  his  native  village. 
A  score  of  Chinese  insurance  companies  see  to 
It  that  John's  wishes  are  gratified. 

Aj)ropos   of   this,   a   few   years   ago  a  certain 
coroner — he  was  the  town  undertaker  as  well — 


TIU.      .....:..!.;..-.,..    ACRE     — HERB     HIS    W ,...-,,  1 1 ,,  i-.kt,     ,!,>■■.     Iniuia,     Iwk      ,,,,.,-,■      ,,-./m.-     I  .■  1  uKE 

THEIR    BONES   ARE   DUG    UP   AND    DISI'ATCHKl)     TO     I  HEIR    FINAL   RESTING-I'I.ACE    IN   CHINA. 

FiPtti  a  Photo.  , 


i 

I 


THR     l.ANI)    Ol'     THK    SI  I  kl  M  I' ( .ol ). 


41 


conc-civcd  ami  executed  a  brilliaiU  scheme. 
Business  wiili  hiui  in  l)()tli  l)ranclics  had  been 
very  bad  uideed.  The  town  folk  were  appal 
hnyly  heallliy.  The  cro[)  of  suicides  had 
dwindled  down  to  nolhuig.  People  were 
so  prosperous  and  so  busy  that  they  sinii)ly 
wouldn't  take  the  time  to  kill  one  another. 
Then  he  bethought  himself  of  the  shrimp 
village,  raided  the  burying-ground,  secured  six 
very  de.id  Chinamen,  impanelled  si.x  juries,  held 
six  intjuests  at  the  legal  charge  of  two  pounds 
two  shillings  per  inquest,  and  subpamaed  pretty 
nearly  the  whole  population  of  the  three  villages 
as  witnesses  at  one  shilling  and  sixpence  per 
subpcena  and  mileage  extra.  It  was  a  glorious 
harvest  while  it  lasted  1  'I'he  verdicts,  to  be 
sure,  left  something  to  the  imagination  :  "  \\'e, 
the  jury,  find  that  deceased,  John  Doe,  whose 
true  name  is  unknown,  age  unknown,  supposed 
to  be  a  nati\e  of  China,  died  from  a  cause  or 
causes  unknown,  on 
a  date  unknown,  at 
or  in  the  neighbour- 
hood of  a  Chinese 
fish-camp."  Just  as 
the  zealous  official 
was  on  the  point  of 
rem  tern  ng  the  lot  ot 
them  at  two  pounds 
sixteen  shillmgs  and 
sixpence  per  head, 
under  a  law  providing 
for  the  burial  of  the 
indigent  dead,  a  re- 
]5rcsentati\e  of  a 
Chinese  bone  insur- 
ance company  a|)- 
peared,    reclaimed 


past 


his  defunct   clients,  and    settled    all    bil 
and   jjrospective. 

'i'hrough  many  drying-grounds  strewn  with 
shrim[)s  and  shrim[)-nets  we  wander  down  into 
Village  No.  3,  which  is  ruled  by  a  woman— the' 
feminine  J.  I'leipont  Morgan  of  Shrimpland. 
Here  is  an  opportunity  for  a  fortune-hunting 
bachelor.  The  somewhat  corpulent  lady  in  the 
photograph  is  the  head  of  a  flourishing  trust — 
the  dried-shrimp  trust  I  Moreover,  she  is  the 
despotic  ruler,  more  than  Queen,  of  a  small 
kingdom  of  three  hundred  and  twenty-three 
souls,  l-'urthermore,  she  receives  as  revenue 
one  hundred  and  tliirtcen  three  hundred  and 
twenty-thirds  of  the  gross  profits  of  her  subjects 
a  bewildering  fraction  which  yields  her  a 
good  income.  Lastly,  she  is  reported  to  have 
fifty  thousand  pounds  in  cash — and  she  is  a 
widow.  She  speaks  a  moderately  fiur  imitation 
of  English  and  entertains  us  with  tea,  abomin- 
able Chinese  sweet- 
meats, and  rice 
brandy. 

But  we  must  hasten 
homeward,  as  night  is 
approaching.  As  we 
reclimb  the  mountain 
slope  we  catch  a 
glimpse  of  a  China- 
man repairing  a  net 
— and  an  illegal  net 
at  that,  with  meshes 
scarcely  a  quarter  of 
an  inch  wide.  And 
so  we  bid  fare- 
well to  the  curious 
villages  of  the  Shrimp- 
( ;od. 


illl-;    ■'  l,>L  I-.KN        (li-      IIIK     MIUIMI'    VIl.l.AOl-.s       SHI': 
WUVJW,    AM)    IS   SAID   TO    I'OSSESS   /JsO.OOO  ! 

/•'roiii  a  Photo. 


Vol 


Biovo  '' Buffalo  Bill"  U)on  ^is  J^ams. 

By  Frederick  Moore. 

The    story  of    the    remarkable    achievement  which    won    "  Buffalo    Bill  "    his   world-famous    sobriquet. 

When  the   thousands  of  men  engaged  in   constructing  the  first    trans-continental  railway  were  all  but 

starving  for  want  of  fresh    meat,  young  Cody  undertook  to    supply  them,  and  carried  out   his  contract 

single-handed,  in  spite  of  the  bands  of  hostile  Indians  who  menaced  the  flanks  of  the  railway. 


X  army  of  hungry  workmen,  far 
from  ihe  confines  of  civilization, 
literally  starving  for  fresh  meat  and 
surfeited  with  an  endless  course  of 
salt  pork.  How  were  they  to  be 
fed?  That  was  the  problem,  more  serious  than 
any  immediate  engineering  ditificulties,  that  con- 
fronted the  builders  of  the  first  American  trans- 
continental railway,  pushing  rapidly  across  the 
plains  in  the  spring  of  1867.  That  pioneer 
road  was  built,  so  men  said  at  the  time,  as 
fast  as  a  horse  could  gallop.  So,  indeed, 
it  seemeJ.  Across  the  great,  level  plains 
from  St.  Louis,  then  a  mere  frontier  town, 
the  permanent  way  was  laid  with  remarkable 
speed.  Mile 
after  mile  behind 
the  workers  the 
tracks  spun  out 
straight  as  the 
crowflies,  till  the 
ribbons  of  steel 
met  at  the  van- 
ishing point  on 
the  horizon. 
Ahead,  as  far  as 
the  eye  could 
reach,  the  mid- 
dle hair  of  the 
engineer's  lev(.l 
split  the  tack- 
heads  in  the 
surveyors'  pegs. 
Construction 
trains  rushed 
material  to  the 
front,  and  a  host 
of  workers 
swarmed  to  lay 
it  down  almost 
as  fast  as  it  could 
be  unloaded 
from  the  cars. 
'J'here  were  three 
thousand  men 
in  one  capacity 
or  another  to  be 


r  iiioro(.i(Ai'ii  OK  coi 
J-rom  a  Photo,  by  John  C. 


fed  at  the  head  of  the  line,  and  the  work  had  long 
been  beyond  the  uttermost  limits  of  civilization. 
It  was  long  before  the  days  of  refrigerator 
cars,  and  fresh  meat  from  "  the  East  "  was  out 
of  the  question.  But  men  cannot  work  in  the 
burning  summer  sun  of  that  arid  region  on  a 
steady  diet  of  salt  meat.  To  feed  them  was  the 
problem. 

It  hardly  suffices  to  say  that  game  was 
abundant.  It  was  the  heyday  of  the  buffiilo, 
and  game  at  times  was  an  absolute  nuisance. 
Monster  herds  of  the  shaggy  beasts  drifted 
north  across  the  line  of  construction  for  days 
at  a  time,  sometimes  actually  stopping  the  work. 
Then  they  would  vanish,  and   it  took  not  only 

hunters  but  In- 
dian fighters  to 
risk  the  perils  of 
the  desert  be- 
yond the  pro- 
tection of  the 
cavalry  patrols 
and  bring  meat 
into  camp.  The 
perils  were  of 
varied  sorts  — 
death  by  sun 
and  thirst  in 
summer,  and  by 
the  icy  blast  of 
the  norther  in 
winter,  and  at 
all  times  there 
was  the  risk  of 
capture  and  tor- 
t  u  re —  m  any 
times  worse  than 
death  —  by  the 
tribes  of  "  hos- 
tiles"  that 
hovered  for  ever 
on  the  flanks  of 
these  white  in- 
vaders of  their 
ancient  hunting- 
grounds. 


OMvl.    CODV,         IIUKI-ALO    DILL, 

ticiiimcnt,  New  York, 


But 


g  a  m  e 


HOW    "15L1I  AI.O     151  LI.'    WON     HIS     XAMi:. 


43 


was  the  only  fresh  meat  available.  It  iiai.! 
to  he  procured,  and  the  superintendent 
of  construction  conferred  witii  his  lieutenants 
about  letting  a  contract  to  some  of  the  best 
scouts  and  hunters  to  keep  the  camps  supplied. 
None  of  the  railway  men  knew  just  how  large 
a  force  they  might  have  to  enrol  to  keep  up  the 
meat  supply,  till  the  foreman  of  the  tie-gang 
suggested,  "  S'pose 
you  talk  it  over 
with  Cody  ?  " 

"And  w  h  o  '  s 
Cody  ?  "  incjuired 
the  chief  engineer. 

"Oh,  he's  a 
youngster,"  replied 
the  f o  re  m  a  n . 
"  He's  done  some 
freighting  and  rode 
mail  routes  back 
in  Pike  County, 
and  he's  scouted 
for  Hazen.  They 
say  he's  all  right. 
He'll  know  as 
much  as  anybody 
you  can  ask." 

So  they  sent  for 
the  young  fellow 
called  Cody.  He 
came,  handsome  as 
a  (Jreek  god,  in 
buck-skins.  Cody 
was  always  good- 
looking,  and  just 
then  he  was  at  his 
best.  With  his 
long  brown  hair  curling  over  his  shoulders  after 
the  fashion  of  the  frontiersman,  his  clean-cut 
features,  and  tall,  athletic  frame,  he  was  a 
picture,  but  not  an  effeminate  sort  of  picture. 

The  chief  engineer  wanted  to  know  how 
many  men  Cody  thought  would  be  required  to 
keep  the  camp  supplied  with  fresh  meat.  Cody 
thought  one  could  do  it,  and  the  chief  was  sur- 
prised. But  he  offered  the  young  fellow  the 
job  if  he  thought  he  was  ecjual  to  it. 

"  Well,"  remarked  Cody,  "  I  guess  I  can 
come  pretty  near  doing  it." 

"  Come  pretty  near  doing  it  !  "  The  West 
always  was  chary  of  promises,  though  precipitate 
to  the  verge  of  recklessness  when  it  came  to 
fulfilment.  "  Come  pretty  near  doing  it"  from 
one  of  those  sons  of  the  saddle  and  si.x-shooter 
was  about  as  good  as  a  bond  from  a  niodern 
trust  company,  and  so  young  Cody  got  the  job 
and  started  on  the  career  that  was  to  win  him 
the  name  that  has  become  familiar  the  world 
over. 


During  the  next  eighteen  month.s,  while  he 
was  with  the  Kansas  and  Pacific  Company, 
Cody  killed  and  delivered  to  the  railway  camp 
over  five  thousand  buffalo — an  average  of  more 
than  ten  a  day,  including  Sundays  !  But  the 
regrettable  extinction  of  the  buffalo  on  the 
Western  plains  is  not  to  be  laid  at  his  door. 
For  the  time   being,    it  is   true,    he   was  a  pot- 


^^/^r. 


WELL,'  HKMAKKED  CODV,  '  I  GUKSS  I  CAN  C(.i.ME  I  UETTY  NEAK  OOING  IT. 


hunter,  but  he  killed  no  more  than  there  was 
immediate  use  for  ;  and  if  it  had  not  been  for 
Cody  and  his  bufialo  the  first  trans-continental 
road  would  never  have  been  built  at  the  rate 
that  established  an  engineering  record  for  the 
New  \\'orld. 

It  was  before  the  days  of  the  repeating  rifle. 
Indeed,  even  the  breechloader  was  more  or  less 
of  a  novelty  on  the  frontier;  but  Cody,  who  was 
always  extremely  up-to-date,  had  acquired  some- 
where a  Springfield  breech-loading  needle  gun, 
which  he  christened  "  Lucretia  Borgia."  "  I.u- 
cretia "  was  his  constant  companion,  till  the 
advent  of  the  A\inchester  revolutionized  the 
whole  practice  of  Western  gun-play.  His  other 
inse[)nrable  ally  was  his  buflalo-hunter,  a  swift, 
powerful  horse  named  Brigham— after  the  then 
famous  head  of  the  Mormon  Church.  "  Lucretia 
Borgia "  was  as  deadly  >is  her  classic  prede- 
cessor ;  and  as  for  Brigham,  Cody  to  this  day 
declares  that  "  he  knew  enough  to  vote  and 
lacked  only  the  property  qualification."      Brig- 


44 


THK    WIl)]-:    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


ham  knew  as  much  about  liuntuig  buffalo  as 
his  master,  and  the  trio — man,  gun,  and  horse — 
were  a  formidable  combination. 

Cody's  reputation  was  not  made  in  a  day, 
and  he  tells  a  good  story  against  himself  con- 
cerning his  experience  with  a  party  of  army 
officers  after  he  had  taken  the  meat  contract  for 
the  Kansas  Pacific.  They  had  been  short  of 
work  horses  at  the  head  of  the  line,  and  Cody, 
who  was  a  good  hand  anywhere,  had  drafted 
Brigham,  mufh  to  that  worthy  animal's  disgust, 
into  waggon  work  with  one  of  the  advance  parties. 
Brigham  had  never  known  the  indignity  of 
traces  and  a  blind  bridle,  but  he  worked  most  of 
the  day.  I'owards  evening,  meat  being  needed 
in  camp,  Cody  took  him  out  of  the  team  and 
started  off  bareback  to  look  for  game  with  the 
working  bridle  still  on  him.  Cody  himself  was 
in  boots  and  overalls. 

Some  strange  officers  had  just  joined  the 
railway  construction  party  from  one  of  the 
military  posts  farther  east,  and  a  few  miles 
outside  of  camp  they  came  across  Cody  in  his 
remarkable  hunting  get-up  just  as  he  had 
sighted  a  small  "  bunch  "  of  eleven  buffalo  over 
the  crest  of  a  "hog-back,"  about  a  mile  away. 

"  Young  man,"  remarked  one  of  the  officers, 
"  do  you  think  you  are  out  chasing  buffalo  on 
that  waggon-horse  ?  " 

Cody  admitted  modestly  that 
he  had  some  notion  that  way. 

"  You  are  wasting  time," 
said  the  captain  ;  "  it  takes  the 
fastest  sort  of  a  horse  to  run 
down  a  buffalo." 

"  Does  it  ?  "  said  Brigham's 
rider,  with  mild -eyed  inno- 
cence, as  though  it  were  an 
entirely  new  proposition  to 
him. 

"  That's  what  it  does,"  re- 
joined the  soldier,  "and  that 
plough-horse  of  yours  won't  be 
ill  the  hunt  at  all.  ]}ut  I'll 
tell  you  what.  We  are  going 
to  kill  some  of  those  beasts, 
and  all  we  want  are  the  tongues 
and  a  bit  of  the  tenderloin. 
You  can  have  all  the  meat  you 
want." 

"Thank  you,"  said  Cody, 
politely,  and  the  hunt  com- 
menced. 

The  buffalo  "  winded  "  pur- 
suit immediately,  and  the 
cavalrymen- all  of  them  well 
mounted— started  full  tilt  after 
the  herd.  Now,  Ijolh  Cody 
and  Brigham  knew  their  game. 


Far  away,  and  considerably  to  the  left,  a  faint 
line  of  Cottonwood  trees  showed  on  the  horizon. 

Cottonwood  trees  mean  water  in  that  arid 
region,  and  Cody  divined  that  the  buffalo  would 
run  for  water,  and  that  with  a  hot  chase  behind 
them  it  would  take  a  good  deal  to  turn  them. 
So  he  slipped  the  blind  bridle,  kicked  Brigham 
in  the  ribs  just  to  let  him  know  there  was 
"  something  doing,"  and  headed  across  the 
chord  of  the  circle,  while  the  soldiers  followed 
the  circumference.  The  result  was  that  at  the 
end  of  a  few  miles  he  emerged  from  a  hollow 
right  on  the  tail  of  the  flying  herd,  with  the 
officers  still  nearly  half  a  mile  behind. 

Then  Brigham  showed  what  he  knew  of  his 
end  of  the  game.  Without  the  suggesting  touch 
of  a  bridle  he  darted  into  the  "  bunch  "  and 
brought  his  master  alongside  the  rearmost 
buffalo.  A  crack  of  the  rifle  and  the  buffalo 
was  rolling  over  and  over  in  a  cloud  of  dust. 
^^'ithout  pausing  in  his  stride  Brigham  ranged  up 
with  the  next  of  the  fugitives,  and  that,  too, 
dropped  to  a  single  shot.  Another  and  another 
followed  in  quick  succession,  and  the  soldiers 
spurred  up  just  as  the  young  fellow  in  overalls 
slipped  off  his  barebacked  horse  alongside  the 
last  of  the  dead  beasts,  having  killed  the  eleven 
buffalo  with  twelve  bullets. 


WITHOUT    I'AU.SINc;    IN    HIS   STHinE    IIKIGHAM    RANr.UI)    Ul'    Willi     TIM-.    MAT    I  Uc.lTIVE. 


HOW    ■•  I'.I'I'I'AIO     lill.I.""    WON     HIS     XAMi:. 


45 


"Young  man, '  said  the  officer  who  luid  lately 
referred  to  Brigham  as  a  plough-horse,  "  will  you 
kindly  tell  nie  who  you  are?" 

'•  My  name  is  Cody,"  replied  the  unknown. 
"  And  you  gentlemen  are  welcome  to  as  many 
iongues  and  tenderloins  as  you  care  to  have." 

His  reputation  as  a  scout  and  hunter  was  just 
beginning  to  be  made,  and  he  had  not  then 
arrived  at  the  distinction  of  "  Buffalo  I'ill." 

The  reputation  came  in  due  time,  but  on  the 
frontier  in  those  days  re|)utations  were  built  on 
more  than  a  single  exploit.  Young  Cody  was 
the  contemporary,  though  much  the  junior,  of 
such  men  as   Kit   Carson,  Uncle   Hick  \\'ootan, 


manches,  and  Blackfeet  in  turn  disputed  the 
progress  of  the  railway.  Many  a  consignment 
of  meat  meant  a  fight  before  it  was  delivered  at 
the  construction  camp  ;  and  while  Cody's  work 
was  primarily  that  of  a  hunter,  it  was  during 
this  time  that  he  passed  through  what  may  be 
termed  his  postgraduate  course  in  desert  craft 
and  scouting,  which  afterwards  made  him  the 
ablest  lieutenant  of  Sherman,  Sheridan,  Miles, 
Custer,  Carr,  Crook,  and  the  other  noted  Indian 
generals  of  the  West. 

The  buffalo  had  their  times  and  seasons,  and 
the  winter  months  proved  a  lean  season  for 
game  of  all  sorts  ;  but  Cody  was  indefatigable, 


\ 


ULOW    mil    UK    I'.I.OU    Cor.U,     IIIK    MliAr    SUITLY    was    NEVEK    ALLOUta)    Tl'     KAIL. 


Jim  Ikidger,  Te.xas  Bill,  Wild  Bill,  and  Call 
fornia  Joe.  Hunters,  scouts,  and  Indian  fighters 
they  all  were,  the  very  pick  of  the  ^Vest,  and  a 
man  to  rise  to  prominence  among  them  had  to 
l)e  someone  very  much  out  of  the  ordinary  run. 
Kit  Carson,  the  trusted  companion  of  l-'ieemont 
the  Pathfinder,  stood  pre-eminent  among  that 
remarkable  group  of  strong  men  of  the  early 
West,  and  upon  no  shoulders  can  his  mantle  be 
said  to  have  descended  more  fittingly  than  upon 
those  of  "  Buffalo  Bill." 

Cody's  reputation  grew  apace  as  the  Kansas 
Pacific  pushed  west  to  the  foothills  of  the 
Rockies.  It  was  a  record  of  mixed  hunting  and 
fighting.     The  Siou.x,  Cheyennes,  Kiowas,  Com 


and,  blow  hot  or  blow  cold,  the  me.it  supjily  was 
never  allowed  to  fail. 

To  understand  how  such  a  monster  hunting 
contract  could  be  successfully  carried  out  by  a 
single  man,  it  may  be  worth  while  for  the 
benefit  of  those  not  familiar  with  the  conditions 
prevailing  on  the  i)lains  in  the  late  sixties  to 
e\[)lain  somelhin.,'  both  of  the  plenitude  and  the 
habits  of  the  buffalo.  Records  compiled  with 
the  utmost  care  after  the  awful  carnival  of 
slaughter  that  ended  in  the  practical  extinction 
of  the  buffalo  in  1881  show  that  in  Kansas 
alone,  between  1S65  and  the  early  eighties,  no 
fewer  than  ten  million  buffalo  were  slaughtered 
and    their   bones  afterwards   sold  for   fertilizer ! 


46 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    ^^LVC.AZINE. 


As  late  as  1870  the  migrating  herds  were  at 
times  so  dense  as  to  delay  the  traffic  on  the 
railways.  There  is  one  record  of  a  train  not  far 
west  of  Kansas  City  being  held  up  for  five  hours 
by  a  monster  herd  passing  northward  over  the 
track. 

'J'his  suggests  another  curious  idea  firmly 
believed  by  the  Indians,  and  that  was  that  the 
buffalo  always  moved  north  and  that  the  same 
animals  never  returned.  The  migratory  move- 
ment certainly  started  each  spring  among  the 
animals  south  of  the  old  Arkansas  River  line, 
where  they  wintered  by  the  million.  They 
moved  north  in  droves  of  from  a  few  score  to 
countless  thousands,  following  the  receding 
snows  and  grazing  on  the  new  grass  that  in 
the  early  spring  covered  even  the  sub-desert 
section  of  the  plains  region.  The  migratory 
movement  carried  them  far  over  what  is  now 
the  Canadian  line,  and  there  in  the  brief,  hot 
northern  summer  they  waxed  fat  preparatory  to 
returning  south  before  the  advent  of  winter. 
IJiit,  curiously  enough,  there  was  no  great  migra- 


Jivin  a\ 


THE    LAST    IIEKI)   OF    IIUKI-AI.O    NOW    IN    VELLOWSTONli   I'AUK 


tory  moNeniL-nt  .south,  and  if  the  buffalo  returned, 
as  they  doubtless  did,  it  was  in  such  straggling 
parties  that  the  movement  passed  unnoticed. 

The  Indians  declare  that  they  never  did 
return,  but  vanished  into  the  unknown  north 
into  certain  great  caves,  where  they  were  cared 
for  by  the  Great  Spirit,  who  next  spring  sent  a 
fresh  multitude  from  the  south  for  the  benefit  of 
his  children — the  plains  Indians. 

One  thing  is  certain — that  when  the  great 
slaughter  of  the  buffalo  was  in  progress  many  of 


the  huge  beasts  did  actually  seek  sanc:tuary  in 
the  far  north,  never  to  return.  There  they 
bred,  in  the  face  of  hardships  and  strange  and 
unfavourable  conditions,  a  new  and  stunted 
breed,  the  wood  bison  of  the  far  North-West 
of  Canada,  whose  presence  there  to-day  has 
been  verified  by  explorers. 

The  immensity  of  the  northward- moving 
herds  almost  passes  comprehension  by  those 
who  never  saw  them.  Densely  packed  droves, 
with  a  front  from  a  mile  to  ten  miles  across, 
would  take  hours  to  pass  a  given  point.  From 
the  tops  of  the  scattered  buttes  eye-witnesses 
have  declared  the  country  black  with  moving 
herds  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach.  And  after 
the  great  slaughter  that  came  with  the  advent 
of  the  hide-hunter  and  his  magazine  rifle 
there  were  sections  of  Kansas,  Nebraska,  and 
Colorado  where  one  could  walk  for  miles  over 
the  dead  carcasses  of  buffalo  without  ever  setting 
foot  to  the  ground. 

With  such  a  game  preserve  to  work  in  Cody's 
task   does    not    seem   such  a  phenomenal  one. 

]!ut  while  advantage  could 
be  taken  of  the  plentiful 
spring  season  and  a  con- 
siderable supply  of  meat 
dried  and  stored  for  use, 
the  winter  months,  with 
blizzards  and  long 
stretches  of  intense  cold, 
forced  him  far  afield  and 
taxed  every  resource  to 
keep  the  supply  equal  to 
the  demand. 

A  dozen  times  he  and 
lirigham  had  to  race  for 
their  lives  to  avoid  getting 
caught  in  the  deadly  rush 
of  a  stampede.  On  one 
occasion  there  came  gal- 
loping suddenly  over  a 
hill-top  an  enormous  herd 
of  the  animals,  its  front 
stretching  as  far  as  the  eye 
could  see  in  either  direc- 
tion. Cody  and  "Saw- 
bones," his  Scotch  com- 
panion, who  butchered  the  buffalo  after  they  were 
shot,  were  making  their  midday  meal.  Crabbing 
only  their  riflos,  they  jumped  on  their  bare- 
backed horses  and  started  in  wild  flight  before 
llie  maddened  beasts.  Hour  after  hour  they 
fled,  first  diagonally  towards  one  end  and  then 
towards  the  other.  "  Sawbones's  "  animal  played 
out  first,  r.righam  could  have  run  for  another 
hour,  but  Cody  was  not  the  man  to  desert  a 
companion.  They  drew  up  on  an  eminence, 
"  Sawbones's  "     exhausted     horse    falling    the 


Photo. 


now     -liUFFALO     lllLL'     WON     HIS    XAMK. 


47 


nioiiKiU  lie  lialtccl.  IJuih  iiun  jumped  beliind 
the  dying  animal,  while  the  faidiful  IJrigliam 
stood  like  a  statue  behind  his  master.  At  a 
hundred  yards  range  a  battery  of  fire  broke 
forth  from  behind  that  curious  living  redoubt 
such  as  never  two  men  discharged  in  war,  for 
they  were  fighting  for  their  lives.  It  was  their 
only  hope  to  s[)lit  the  herd. 

Gradually  they  piled  up  a  series  of  hurdles  of 
dead  buffalo.  At  first  the  others  vaulted  these 
without  hesitation.  By  the  time  they  got  to  the 
men,  however,  the  line  was  beginning  to  swing 
around  the  obstacles,  and  the  fire  from  the  rifles 


the  night  inside  the  warm  caica^:^,  .m  expedient 
olten  adopted  by  hunters.  Once,  indeed,  he 
was  just  in  lime  to  save  the  life  of  one  of  the 
older  tra[)pers  who  had  resorted  to  the  same 
curious  shelter  and  been  frozen  in,  being  utterly 
unable  next  morning  to  escape  unaided  from 
between  the  frozen  ribs. 

The  winter  of  '67  passed,  and  the  fall  of  the 
succeeding  year  found  the  transcontinental 
road  beyond  the  confines  of  the  plains  region 
and  forcing  its  slow  way  over  tiie  almost 
inaccessible  passes  of  the  Rockies. 

The  land  of  the   buffalo   lay    behind  them. 


•j>*'PS^ 


completed  the 
split  in  the  herd. 
After     two    hours 

of  this  Cody  and  Scotty  together  mounted 
Uiigham  and  went  back  to  their  camp,  but 
there  was  not  a  vestige  of  it  left  on  the  ploughed 
field  the  buffalo  had  left  behind  them.  Once, 
indeed,  the  resistless  rush  of  an  immense  herd 
of  maddened  buff;\lo  routed  a  full  regiment  of 
cavalry  on  escort  duty. 

But  winter  was  the  worst  time  for  the  young 
hunter.  The  blizzard,  the  great  white  death  of 
the  West,  comes  without  warning,  and  neither 
man  nor  beast  can  live  against  it.  Even  the 
thick-coated  buffalo  fled  before  it  to  the 
sheltered  valleys,  and  there  Cody  followed 
them,  never  returning  emi)ty-handed.  More 
than  once,  caught  suddenly  l)y  the  storm,  he 
killed  and  disembowelled  a  buffalo  and  spent 


"OR.\l)l.Al.l.V    THliV    rlLKD   VF   A   SEKIES   OF    HURDLES   OF 
DEAll    BUFFALO.  ' 


Ikit  young  Cody's  services  as  scout,  hunter,  and 
courier  were  too  valuable  to  be  dispensed  with, 
and  he  continued  in  the  service  of  the  construc- 
tion party  clear  to  the  end.  His  achieve- 
ment of  the  previous  year  and  a  half  was  too 
striking  to  be  forgotten,  and  thereafter  \\'illiam 
Codv,  even  when  he  rose  to  be  chief  of  scouts 
in  the  United  States  Army,  was  universally 
known  by  his  now  world-famous  sobriquet  — 
"  Buffido  Bill." 


The  Looting  of  the  '"Bang  Yee." 


Kv  Captain   T.   Costello. 

While  in  Penang,  Straits  Settlements,  looking  for  a  ship,  the  author  heard  that  the  command  of  a 

certain  vessel  was  literally  going   a-begging.     The  explanation  of  this  curious  state  of  affairs  was 

given  him  by  the  chief  engineer  of  the  ship  in  question,  who  unfolded  a  most  remarkable  story. 


T.T)  NORTON  was  one  of  the  most 
genial  and  kind-iiearted  of  men, 
and  although  our  acquaintance  was 
short — more's  the  pity — I  can  never 
forget  that  at  a  time  when  I  was  in 
sore  need  his  was  the  helping  hand  which  gave 
me  a  fresh  start,  or  at  least  was  the  means  of 
doing  so. 

Mine  had  been  an  eventful  career,  and  at  the 
age  of  forty-five  I  found  myself  in  Penang. 
Like  many  another  I  was  looking  for  a  ship, 
and  not  particular  as  to  the  size,  kind,  owner- 
ship, or  in  fact  anything  else,  provided  I  could 
only  get  command  of  one.  How  it  came  to 
pass  that  at  my  time  of  life  I  was  in  such  a 
predicament  is  a  long 
story.  Suffice  it  to  say 
that  I  had  commanded  as 
fine  a  liner  as  ever  left 
the  London  Docks,  but 
thick  weather,  an  unex- 
pected set  of  currents, 
and  a  shoal  in  that  most 
treacherous  and  scandal- 
ously ill-lighted  of  places, 
the  Red  Sea,  had  wrecked 
my  vessel,  and  with  it  my 
previously  prosperous 
career.  So  here  I  was, 
after  trying  my  fortune  at 
various  places,  endeavour- 
ing to  get  a  ship  out  of 
I'enang,  where  I  had 
heard  that  if  one  could 
keep  away  from  the  bottle 
—  to  which,  I  am  thankful 
to  say,  I  had  never  been 
addicted  — there  wasalways 
an  opening  to  be  found. 

On  the  particular  morning  which  was  to 
bring  the  first  gleam  of  sunshine  through  the 
very  dark  cloud  which  had  been  hanging  like 
a  pall  over  my  fortunes  I  had  strolled  down  to 
the  landing  jetty  on  the  off  chance  of  hearing  of 
some  opening.  I  was  quite  resigned  to  take  a 
beith   even  as  mate  of   a  vessel,  if  it  offered, 


sooner  than  lead  my  present  life  of  idleness, 
which  was  sadly  straining  my  reduced  resources. 

Suddenly  my  attention  was  attracted  by  a  very 
heated  altercation  between  the  occupant  of  a 
dilapidated  sampan,  or  native  boat,  and  the 
very  dirty  and  scantily-clad  native  who  had 
rowed  him  to  the  jetty,  evidently  from  one  of 
the  numerous  steamers  lying  off  the  city. 

"  You  grimy-faced  son  of  a  gun  !  "  I  heard 
the  European  exclaim.  "  Twenty  cents  for 
bringing  me  a  few  fathoms  !  I  could  almost 
have  jumped  !  Here's  ten,  and  that's  too 
much  !  Away  with  jou,"  and  then  followed 
some  very  forcible  remarks,  presumably  in 
Malay,    a    language    with    which     I    was    not 


niliN    lul.LOUtl)    SOMli    VEKV    I  (JKLI  Ul.L    KliMAUKS. 


acquainted  ;  but  it  was  evidently  very  efifica- 
cious,  as  the  sampan  and  rower  disappeared 
with  remarkable  celerity. 

T  had  been  standing  quite  close  to  the  scene 
of  this  occurrence,  and  as  the  speaker  turned 
hurriedly  he  came  into  collision  with  me, 
knocking  my  topee  to  the  ground. 


Tin:    loOTixc.   ()|-    I'lii-:   "  iiAX(}   vi.i: 


49 


"I  beg  your  i).irdon,  sir,"  he  said,  us  lie 
stooped  to  piek  it  up,  "but  I  didn't  notice  you 
standing  there.  T'aet  is,  I  was  too  much  taken 
up  witli  tliat  dirty  rascal  who  brouglit  nie  on 
shore.  He  can  thank  his  lucky  stars,  or  what- 
ever the  native  equivalent  is  for  it,  that  I  didnt 
give  him  an  unexpected  bath.  The  idea  of  try- 
ing to  charge  >//c-  twenty  cents  to  land  !  ^Vhy, 
anyone  would  think  I  was  a  globe-trotter, 
instead  of  an  old  stager  who  has  sailed  in  and 
out  of  this  port  for  the 
last  twenty  years." 

The  speaker  was  a 
short,  stoutly  built  man 
of,  as  far  as  I  could 
judge,  some  fifty  years, 
but  it  would  have  been 
very  hard  to  guess  what 
his  age  really  was,  as  his 
face  was  so  tanned  and 
wrinkled  that  the  skin 
rather  resembled  a  piece 
of  rusty  old  parchment 
than  anything  else. 

Now,  I  thought,  here's 
a  chance  at  last.  If  this 
old  fellow  has  been  sail- 
ing out  of  Penang  all 
these  years  he  may 
possibly  be  able  to  put 
me  in  the  way  of  getting 
something.  No  doubt 
he  would  know  person- 
ally some  of  the  local 
shipowners,  which  at  all 
events  would  be  a  help. 
I  determined  to  ask  his 
assistance,  and  so  I  put 
the  matter  plainly  to 
him,  giving  a  short  out- 
line of  my  career  and  my  hopes  of  getting  a 
berth  out  of  the  port. 

He  listened  to  me  very  attentively  and  pulled 
his  beard  vigorously — a  habit,  1  noticed  after- 
wards, he  always  had  when  in  deep  thought. 

"  Well,"  he  said  at  last,  "  I  don't  quite  know 
what  to  say.  You  see,  it's  like  this  ;  I  do  know 
of  a  berth,  and  a  command  at  that,  but  as  to 
whether  you'll  feel  inclined  to  take  it  after 
you've  heard  my  story,  well,  that's  quite  another 
matter.  It's  only  fair  to  tell  you  that  the  billet 
has  been  going  a-begging,  so  to  speak,  for  the 
last  four  weeks,  and  although  there  are  to  my 
knowledge  half-a  dozen  skippers  knocking  about 
the  port,  there's  not  one  of  them  will  look  at  it." 

I  expressed  myself  an.vious  to  know  what 
vessel  it  was  and  the  reason  of  there  being  any 
difficulty  in  finding  a  commander  for  her  ;  it 
struck  me  that  if  any  of  the  other  skipjiers  were 

Vol.  xi.  -7. 


THE   AUTHOR,    CAPTAIN    T.    COSTEI.I.O. 

Froir.  a  Photo. 


at  such  a  low  ebb  as  myself  it  must  needs  be 
something  very  serious  indeed  which  could  keep 
them  from  taking  it. 

"The  best  plan,"  he  answered,  "is  to  tell  you 
the  whole  story,  and  then  you  can  judge  for 
yourself  whether  you  think  you  would  care  to 
take  it,  for  I  can  assure  you  there  will  be  no 
difficulty  in  getting  the  appointment. 

"  But  surely,"  he  continued,  as  if  struck  by  an 
after-thought,   "  you  have  heard  of  the  looting 

of  the  Ban};  Yee  off 
Acheen  ?  It  has  been 
the  talk  of  the  city  for 
t!ie  past  month." 

I  protested  my  ignor- 
ance of  the  affair. 

"  Of  course,"  he  said, 
"  )0u  wouldn't  know, 
having  only  been  here 
three  days.  Well,  I'll 
tell  you  what  you  had 
better  do  :  come  up  and 
have  a  bit  of  dinner  with 
me  and  the  wife  to-night, 
and  we'll  talk  it  over 
after  she's  gone  to  bed. 
You'll  understand  after 
you  hear  the  story  that  I 
want  her  to  forget  about 
it  if  possible,  for  I  happen 
to  be  chief  engineer  of 
the  old  packet,  and  the 
only  white  man  saved  of 
the  four  who  were  on 
board.  Here's  my  ad- 
dress," he  said,  as  he 
jotted  it  down  on  a  by 
no  means  clean  piece  of 
paper.  "  Any  rickshaw 
coolie  will  be  able  to 
find  it,  so  we'll  expect  you  at  seven. 

"  No,  captain,  I  don't  want  any  thanks  "—for 
I  had  begun  to  give  expression  to  the  sense  of 
obligation  I  felt— "  wait  until  you  have  heard 
me  to  night,  and  then  perhaps  you  will  not  think 
there  is  much  to  be  thankful  for." 

I  doubt  if  he  realized  the  sense  of  relief  our 
meeting  had  afforded  me,  as  he  wished  me  a 
kindly  good-bye,  for  I  felt  lighter  at  heart,  not- 
withstanding his  ominous  words,  than  I  had 
done  for  nuiiiy  a  tkiy.  Surely  at  last  a  berth 
had  turned  u[),  and  1  determined,  unless  some- 
thing very  terrible  was  wrong,  to  give  it  a  trial 
whatever  the  drawbacks  might  be. 

It  was  with  a  sense  of  excitement  that  I 
arrived  at  my  prospective  host's  bungalow  that 
evening,  and,  as  far  as  I  could  judge  in  the 
darkness,  a  very  pretty  little  house  it  was,  as 
houses  go  out  in  the  East. 


5° 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


Norton  and  his  wife  were  both  on  the 
veranda  to  receive  me,  and  made  me  feel  at 
home  immediately  by  the  warmth  of  their 
welcome.  Bearing  in  mind  what  he  had  told 
me  in  the  morning,  I  was  careful  to  eschew  the 
one  subject  I  was  burning  to  hear  about,  and 
conversed  on  general  topics  until  the  pleasant 
little  dinner  came  to  an  end.  My  host's  wife 
had  evidently  been  told  that  my  visit  was  partly 
a  business  one,  and  as  she  rose  from  the  table 


A  more  villainous-lookmg  lot  than  those 
deck  passengers  I  don't  think  I  ever  recollect 
seeing,  though  one  does  meet  all  sorts,  good 
and  bad,  in  a  little  coaster  such  as  ours. 
Looking  back  after  the  event,  I  recall  them 
vividly  to  mind — and  I  have  indeed  cause  to  do 
so — but  at  the  time  I  don't  suppose  I  gave  them 
a  passing  thought.  They  were  a  queer  mixture 
of  nationalities,  half  Chinese,  half  Malay,  but, 
whatever  their  race,  as  great  a  set  of  villains  as 


IIIK    m-XK    I'ASMi.NuKKS — "A    VlLLAliSuL;>-l.uOKI.Nw    l.o  1  . 


she  wished  me  "good-night,"  and  hoped  I  would 
soon  give  them  the  pleasure  of  seeing  me  again. 

"  Now,"  said  Norton,  as  his  wife  left  the 
room  and  he  lighted  his  pipe,  "  I'll  give  you 
the  details  of  a  tragedy  which,  had  I  not  been  a 
witness  of,  I  could  scarcely  have  believed  could 
happen  in  these  modern  times." 

And  as  I  drew  my  chair  closer  to  his  and  lit 
up,  he  told  me  the  following  remarkable  story. 

Six  weeks  ago  the  steamer  Bang  Yee,  of  which 
I  am  chief  engineer,  left  Penang  bound  for 
Kluang,  a  small  trading  port  on  the  north-east 
coast  of  Sumatra.  She  carried  a  little  general 
cargo,  twenty  deck  passengers,  and  twenty 
thousand  dollars  in  specie,  and  it  was  this  last 
item  which  was  the  cause  of  the  dreadful  events 
which  happened  subsequently.  I  had  another 
engineer  besides  myself,  Arkwright  by  name, 
and  Captain  Fairbank  and  Mr.  Linn,  tlie  chief 
mate,  completed  the  European  crew.  The 
native  crew  numbered  eighteen  all  told,  but  my 
experience  is  they  don't  count  for  much  in  an 
emergency — at  any  rate  not  in  the  sort  of  one 
we  experienced. 


ever  crossed  a  ship's  gangway,  as  we  discovered 
only  when  too  late. 

We  weighed  anchor  on  Sunday  afternoon, 
which  was  our  usual  day  of  departure,  and  were 
due  at  Kluang  on  the  Tuesday  morning  follow- 
ing. I  little  thought  as  we  passed  out  beyond 
Muka  Head  of  the  terrible  trial  in  store  for  me. 

Nothing  occurred  to  raise  suspicion  on  that 
day,  or  the  next.  After  dinner  on  the  evening 
of  the  second  day  I  was  having  a  pi|)e  and  a 
yarn  with  the  captain,  a  man  I  greatly  respected, 
as  did  everyone  who  knew  him.  The  after- 
deck,  where  we  were  sealed,  was  dimly  lighted 
by  a  sickly  globe-lamp,  whose  feeble  rays  made 
it  just  possible  for  us  to  see  each  other. 

'I'he  better  to  illustrate  the  terrible  events 
which  shortly  occurred,  I  must  explain  our 
positions.  The  captain's  chair  was  near  to  a 
canvas  screen,  which  separated  the  after  from 
the  main  deck,  where  the  deck  passengers  were 
located,  and  we  were  both  seated  with  our 
backs  towards  this  screen.  My  chair  was  a  few 
feet  farther  away  from  the  screen  than  his, 
fortunately  for  me,  though  it  seems  selfish  to 
say  so.      We    had    been    chatting   as   seafaring 


'11  IK   LooTixc  c)i    nil': 


i5AN(;   vi:E" 


51 


men  aie  prune  lo  do,  mostly  about  mailers 
connected  with  ships  and  shipping,  and  I  was 
just  making  up  my  mind  to  turn  m,  when,  with 
a  suddenness  which  is  smiply  indescribable,  three 
men  with  dalis  flashing  in  their  hands  appeared 
on  the  deck  behind  us,  and  almost  as  I  shouted 
out  a  warning  cry  pounced  on  poor  Fairbank. 
The  biggest  of  the  three — a  very  giant  in  stature 
— with  one  sweep  of  the  terrible  weapon  he  was 
wielding,  almost  decapitated  the  poor  fellow, 
who  with  a  muffled  groan  slid  from  his  chair 
to  the  deck  an  inert  mass.  The  suddenness  of 
his  death  was  appalling 

I  jumped  to  my  feet  as  the  men  appeared. 
My  only  weapon  of  defence  was  the  chair  I 
had  been  sitting  on,  but  as  the  two  other  fellows 
made  for  me  I  swung  this  round  my  head  with 
all  the  force  I  was  capable  of,  bringing  it  down 


had  hurried  up  on  deek,  only  to  be  ruthlessly 
cut  down  by  the  bloodthirsty  ruffians  of  deck 
passengers,  who  by  this  time  had  seized  the  ship. 
W  hat  had  become  of  the  chief  mate,  Mr.  linn, 
will  never  be  known,  but  he  disappeared  — 
murdered  and  thrown  overboard,  in  all  proba- 
bility.    Who  can  say  ? 

Dazed  with  the  rapidity  with  which  this 
horrible  tragedy  had  been  enacted,  and  sick  at 
heart  with  apprehension— for  I  lelt  certain  that 
as  soon  as  1  was  discovered  I  should  be  the 
next  victim  —  I  made  my  way  down  into  the 
engine-room,  thinking  I  should  be  safer  there 
than  on  the  deck,  where  the  inhuman  brutes 
were  no  doubt  now  looking  for  the  specie. 

The  engine-room  crew  were  all  huddled  about 
in  abject  terror,  most  of  them  being  in  the  stoke- 
hold.    As  I   afterwards  learnt,   the  deck  crew 


Ji;    I    WAS   CAPABLE   OF. 


with  a  crash  on  the  nearest  villain's  skull.  He 
fell  like  a  log.  rrovidentially,  I  struck  the 
lanij),  which  was  hanging  over  my  head,  with 
the  same  blow,  shattering  it  to  pieces.  It  was 
to  this  accident  I  owe  my  life. 

Under  cover  of  the  complete  darkness  which 
now  prevailed  I  rushed  to  the  other  side  of  the 
deck  and  fled  for  my  life  towards  the  engine- 
room,  which,  fortunately,  I  reached  in  safety, 
but  only  to  find  another  terrible  sight  awaiting 
me.  There,  outside  the  door,  lay  my  second 
engineer,  stone  dead.  He  was  quite  a  youth, 
and — the  pity  of  it  !—  married  but  a  few  months. 
1  have  \\<c)  doubt,  hearing  the  cries  of  alarm,  he 


were  down  forward  in  their  quarters  in  much 
the  same  state  ;  and,  strange  to  .say,  no  attempt 
was  made  on  their  lives.  The  villains  rightly 
guessed  there  would  be  no  resistance  from  that 
cjuarter. 

What  to  do  now  was  my  ne.\t  thought. 
Should  I  stop  the  engines  ?  N'o ;  that  would 
never  do,  for  the  pirates  would  immediately 
come  below  to  find  out  what  was  the  matter.  It 
was  no  use  courting  death  in  that  way.  I  could 
open  a  sea-cock  and  scuttle  the  ship  !  The 
thought  flashed  across  my  mind  only  to  be 
rejected.  That  would  mean  launching  a  number 
of  innocent  souls  into  eternity,  for  the  sake  of 


52 


THE    WIDE    WOREl)    MAGAZINE. 


I)unishing  a  few.  Besides,  there  were  my  dear 
old  woman  and  the  two  children  to  think  of.  I 
could  see  her  m  my  mind's  eye,  sitting  where  we 
are  to-night,  little  thinking  of  the  terrible  tragedy 
being  enacted,  or  the  slender  thread  by  which 
her  husband's  hfe  was  then  hanging.  No  ;  I 
would  see  the  business  through  to  the  bitter 
end,  and  if  my  appointed  time  had  come  I 
must  try  and  meet  it  like  a  man.  A  hundred 
plans  flitted  through  my  brain — some  of  them 
mad  enough  in  all  conscience— only  to  be  thrown 
out  as  impractic 
able,  until  finally 
a  sense  of  utter 
helplessness 
seemed  to  come 
over  me.  I  strained 
my  hearing  to  catch 
the  slightest  sound 
which  should  warn 
meof  the  approach 
of  the  murderers. 

Suddenly  an  in- 
spiration seized  me 
— an  idea  I  had  no 
sooner  thought  of 
than  I  set  to  work 
to  put  it  into  exe- 
cution. U'e  for- 
tunately had  a 
good  length  of 
hose  in  the  store- 
room below,  with 
a  nozzle  attached, 
kept  in  readiness 
in  case  of  fire. 
This,  if  fastened 
on  to  a  connection 
on  the  main  feed- 
pump, wliich  had 
been  fitted  before 
my  time — I  doubt 
if  for  the  same 
purpose  as  I  was 
going  to  use  it — 
would  give  me  a 
strong  pressure  of 
boiling  water,  at 
two  hundred  and 

twelve  degrees  ol  heat,  so  I  had  but  little 
doubt  that  at  last  I  had  found  a  sure  weapon 
of  defence,  and  one  which  would  be  no  less 
effectual,  pcrha[)s  even  more  so,  than  the  razor- 
like da/is  which  had  been  used  with  such  deadly 
results  on  my  poor  friends. 

However,  I  hadn't  long  to  wait  to  test  it.  It 
surprised  me,  as  a  matter  of  fact,  that  my  respite 
had  l)een  such  a  long  one,  but  I  su|)po.se  the 
villains  must  have  had  .some  trouble  in  findinsr 


1    LET  THEM    HAVE    FULL    PKESSUKE. 


the  specie.  That  their  (juest  had  been  success- 
ful I  didn't  doubt,  as  I  could  now  hear  voices 
overhead  close  by  the  engine-room,  and  the 
sound  of  heavy  boxes  being  dragged  along  the 
deck.  Vou  can  well  imagine  what  my  state  of 
mind  was,  as,  their  main  object  being  attained, 
the  robbers'  thoughts  would  naturally  return  to 
me,  who,  if  left  alive,  would  be  able  to  give 
damning  evidence  against  them  in  the  future. 
I  felt  as  if  a  tight  cord  were  stretched  across  my 
head,  which  threatened  every  moment   to  burst. 

Action  was  better 
than  this  awful 
state  of  suspense, 
no  matter  what  the 
upshot.  Thank 
Heaven,  it  soon 
ended,  or  I  think 
my  mind  would 
have  given  way. 

A  slight  sound 
above  attracted 
my  attention,  and 
looking  up  I  saw 
the  forms  of  two 
of  the  wretches 
stealing  cautiously 
down  the  ladder 
and  peering  about, 
no  doubt  trying  to 
locate  me  in  the 
semi  -  darkness. 
They  little  guessed 
in  what  manner 
they  would  do  so  ! 
I  allowed  them 
to  come  down 
sufhciently  far  to 
be  well  within 
reach  of  my  water- 
jet,  and  then  I 
connected  the 
hose  and  let  them 
have  full  pressure. 
The  results  far 
exceeded  my  most 
sanguine  expecta- 
tions, for  as  the 
boiling,  seething 
fluid  caught  them  f;iirly  on  their  scantily-clad 
bodies  they  let  out  wild  yells  of  agony  and 
retreated  helter-skelter  to  the  deck,  their  groans 
being  audible  for  a  long  time  after  they  had 
departed.  It  gave  me  some  satisfaction  to  know 
that  at  least  I  had  managed  to  partly  skin  two 
of  the  scoundrels.  The  lesson  must  have  been 
a  salutary  one,  too,  for  I  had  no  more  visitors 
that  night. 

But    what    would    their    plans     be    now  ?      I 


THE   LOoriNi;   c)i    nil 


nAN(i     VEE." 


53 


wondered.  I'o  kind  the  specie  would  certainly 
be  dieir  first  aim.  But  where  ?  I'liat  was  the 
point  which  troubled  me.  However,  it  was  no 
use  conjecturing  ;  the  only  thing  to  be  done  was 
to  keep  the  engines  going,  and  trust  that  they 
had  some  knowledge  of  the  coast,  at  least 
sufficient  to  keep  clear  of  the  rocks,  of  which, 
fortunately,  there  are  'but  few  on  the  north 
coast  of  Sumatra,  and  those  very  close  inshore. 

As  far  as  I  could  judge  we  ought  to  have 
i)oen  getting  within  the  radius  of  Pulo  Weh 
light,  and  whether  they  intended  to  go  on 
through  the  Malacca  Passage  and  round  Acheen 
Head  would,  I  knew,  be  decided  in  a  very 
short  time.  The  revolutions  we  had  made  since 
leaving  Penang  were  my  only  guide,  but  I  had 
made  the  voyage  so  often  tliat  I  could  give  a 
pretty  fair  guess  as  to  our  position. 

How  the  weary  hours  of  that  terrible  night 
dragged  on  !  It  seemed  an  eternity.  I  wasn't 
to  be  left  long  in  doubt,  however,  as  to  the 
intentions  of  the  pirates,  for,  just  as  daylight  was 
breaking,  without  any  preliminary  warning  I 
was  thrown  violently  on  my  back  on  the  engine- 
room  plates,  and  the  poor  old  packet,  with  a 
shudder  that  seemed  to  shake  her  as  with  a  fit 
of  ague,  gave  one  convulsive  heave  and  slopped 
dead. 

My  first  sensation  was  a  feeling  of  thankful- 
ness that  I  had  fallen  backwards  instead  of  into 
the  crank-pit,  which  I  should  assuredly  have 
done  had  I  been  pitched  forward  :  and  there 
one  turn  of  the  crank  would  have  been  quite 
sutiticient  to  put  an  end  to  all  my  troubles. 

I  struggled  to  my  feet  and  stopped  the 
engines,  which  I  knew  were  only  driving  the 
ship  harder  on  to  whatever  obstacle  she  iiad 
struck. 

What  would  be  the  next  item  on  this  horrible 
programme?  1  could  hear  shouting  and  a  great 
tramping  of  feet  on  the.  deck  overhead,  and 
later,  to  my  great  joy,  the  sound  of  boats  being 
lowered  into  the  water,  so  I  concluded  that  they 
evidently  intended  leaving  the  sliip.  My  con- 
jecture was  right,  for  after  an  hour  of  yelling  and 
bustle,  the  welcome  sound  of  oars  beating  the 
water  reached  my  ears.  Then  a  great  silence 
seemed  to  settle  over  the  vessel,  and  I  felt  as 
though  a  weight  had  been  lifted  from  my  brain. 
IJroad  daylight  now  Hooded  the  heavens,  antl 
the  relief  of  it  after  the  long  night  of  dark- 
ness and  horror  was  simply  indescribable. 

I  determined  to  wail  for  an  hour,  so  as  to 
make  sure  they  had  departed,  before  \enturing 
on  deck,  and  at  the  end  of  that  time  I  cautiously 
ascended,  having  my  trusty  friend  the  hose  ready 
in  case  any  of  the  villains  were  still  lurking  on 
board,  though  I  felt  certain  in  my  own  mind 
that  I  need  not  feel  anv  ahuiu  on  thai  score,  as, 


having  secured  what  they  wanted,  they  would  try 
to  efface  themselves  as  quickly  as  possible. 

As  I  reached  the  deck  I  saw  that  we  were 
heading  on  to  the  beach,  which  was  about  half 
a  mile  distant.  By  a  stroke  of  good  fortune  it 
was  a  sandy  one.  Three  of  our  boats  lay  at  the 
water's  edge,  deserted  ;  but  of  the  murderers 
not  a  sign  could  be  seen. 

My  first  thoughts  were  of  the  poor  skipper 
and  Arkwright.  I  shudder  now  when  I  think 
of  the  awful  sight  their  bodies  presented  in  the 
daylight.  'I'he  latter  was  lying  on  his  side,  quite 
dead,  close  to  his  cabin  door,  which  place  he 
had  no  doubt  tried  to  reach  after  he  had  been 
cut  down.  He  had  made  a  hard  fight  for  his 
life,  as  I  could  see  by  his  hands,  which  were 
badly  cut  where  he  had  tried  to  ward  off  the 
keen-edged  (/ii//s.  The  captain  lay  on  the  deck, 
aft,  just  as  he  had  slid  from  the  chair.  By  this 
time  my  trembling  crew,  who  had  cautiously 
followed  me  up  from  below,  appeared  0:1  the 
scene,  and  the  deck  crew  turned  out  soon  after. 

I  now  stood  face  to  face  with  a  dilemma. 
^Vhat  was  I  to  do  ?  The  captain  and  chief 
mate  both  gone,  and  nobody  to  -consult  with  ! 
Even  if  I  managed  to  get  the  ship  off,  who 
would  navigate  her?  Well,  it  was  no  use  to 
stand  still  and  wonder ;  the  first  thing  was  to 
see  if  the  ship  was  leaking.  I  therefore  sounded 
the  wells,  and  could  have  cried  out  with  joy  ; 
there  was  not  a  sign  of  a  leak,  the  only  water  in 
the  wells  being  the  usual  inch  or  two  which  the 
pumps  never  suck  dry. 

I  could  see  by  the  beach  that  the  tide  was 
out,  so  that  we  must  have  grounded  somewhere 
near  low  water.  I  saw  that  if  1  could  lay  out 
an  anchor  and  hawser,  and  as  the  tide  rose  heave 
on  that  and  go  astern  with  the  engines,  I  might 
get  her  off  My  plan  was  put  into  execution, 
and  much  to  my  delight  by  midday  I  had  the 
satisfaction  of  seeing  my  efforts  rewarded  and 
the  little  vessel  once  more  afloat.  Things  were 
working  bravely  indeed  for  me. 

.My  difficulty  now  was  as  to  our  position,  and 
that  I  could  only  make  a  guess  at.  One  tiling 
I  if/(f  know,  and  that  was,  that  we  had  not  run 
on  our  course  towards  Acheen  during  the  night, 
for  I  knew  the  coast  about  there  intimately.  I 
concluded— and  rightly  so,  as  after  events 
proved  that  the  ruffians,  after  seizing  the  shi|), 
iiad  turned  her  round  and  headed  back  along 
the  coast,  no  doubt  beaching  her  at  a  pre- 
arranged spot.  I  accordingly  decided  to  get 
the  log-book  and  see  what  course  had  been 
steered  on  our  return  journey  on  previous 
voyages.  That  at  any  rale,  I  thought,  should 
lead  us  somewhere  in  the  riglit  direction. 

.\ntl  so  we  steamed  away,  but  what  a  difference 
from  twelve    hours    before !      Who  could  have 


54 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


THE   SADDEST    TASk'    nF    ALL. 


foretold  the  dreadful  events  which  were  to 
haj)pen  in  that  short  space  of  time  ? 

Now  came  the  saddest  task  of  all  — the  con- 
signing of  the  two  hapless  victims  to  the  deep, 
for  it  would  have  been  impossible  to  keep  the 
bodies  until  our  arrival  at  Penang.  Having 
sewn  them  up,  with  weights  at  their  teet,  I 
offered  up  a  short  prayer,  and  with  my  heart 
full  silently  gave  the  signal.  A  dull  splash,  a 
ripple  on  the  surface  of  the  water,  and  all  that 
was  mortal  of  two  lives  that  had  been  so  bright 
a  few  hours  before  disappeared  from  sight.  I 
trust  it  may  never  fall  to  my  lot  to  endure  again 
what  I  did  at  that  moment. 

Mine  was  now  no  easy  task,  for  I  had  to 
divide  my  time  between  the  engine-room  and 
the  bridge,  but  fortunately  my  engine-room 
senrng  could  work  the  engines,  which  lightened 
my  task  considerably  ;  though  I  took  good  care 
not  to  carry  too  big  a  head  of  steam,  as  I  had 
no  mind  for  a  boiler  catastrophe,  after  all  I  had 
gone  through. 

It  was  an  anxious  time,  but  on  the  Wednesday 
night  I  had  the  joy  of  seeing  Muka  Head  light 
flashing  out  through  the  darkness ;  and  I  thanked 
Heaven  that  my  task  was  nearly  at  an  end. 

In  the  early  morning  I  picked  up  a  pilot,  who 
took  us  safely  into  port,  and  so  brought  to  a 
close  the  most  terrible  experience  of  my  life. 

"  My  story  is  told,  and  you  now  know  why  I 
doubted  whether  you  would  feel  inclined  to 
undertake   the   command   of    the    old    packet. 


which  everyone  fights  shy  of,  though  I  doubt 
very  much,  armed  as  we  are  now  and  careful  as 
to  whom  we  allow  to  embark,  if  such  a  blood- 
thirsty crime  could  ever  happen  again. 

"  Has  anything  been  done  to  capture  the 
murderers?"  he  exclaimed,  in  answer  to  my 
question.  "  Well,  yes  ;  the  Government  have 
taken  it  up,  and  a  gunboat  has  been  dispatched 
to  the  scene  of  the  tragedy,  but  I  doubt  if  any 
good  will  come  of  it.  You  must  remember  that 
these  villains  have  landed  on  the  shores  of  a 
country  whose  inhabitants,  the  Achinese,  are  a 
wild  and  warlike  race  and  up  to  the  present  time 
unconquered,  as  the  Dutch,  who  own  the  island, 
know  to  their  cost,  for  they  have  been  at  war 
with  them  for  the  past  fifty  years  or  more. 

"  It  is  a  long  story,  and  one  I  don't  care 
about  repeating  often,  for  the  shock  has  been  a 
severe  one  to  a  man  of  my  years,  and  I  some- 
times doubt  if  I  shall  ever  get  over  it.  But  I 
promised  you  should  hear  it,  and  now  you 
know  the  truth  of  the  matter." 

Poor  old  Norton  !  He  didn't  live  long  enough 
to  get  over  the  shock,  for  six  months  afterwards 
he  was  laid  in  his  grave,  his  health  having  given 
way,  mainly  due  to  the  events  related. 

This  all  happened  nearly  ten  years  ago,  and 
though  I  did  iAkc  command  of  the  little  packet, 
but  on  a  different  line,  I  am  thankful  to  say  no 
such  terrible  experiences  as  my  old  friend  went 
through  ever  happened  to  me  as  the  "  Looting 
of  the  Bang  Vee." 


On  the  March  in  the  Bahr-el-Ghazal. 


Bv  Captain  H.  E.   Havmes,  of  the  Roval  Army  Medical  Corps. 

III. 

An  interesting  account  of  one  of  the  little  expeditions  of  which   the  general  public  hear  next  to  nothing, 
but  which  accomplish  a  vast  amount  of  useful  work.     Captain  Haymes  was  a  member  of  a  small  but  well- 
equipped  expedition  which,  under  Colonel  Sparkes,  C.M.G.,  was  sent  to  re-occupy  the  Bahr-el-Ghazal 
province.    The  author  illustrates  his  narrative  with  some  extremely  striking  and  curious  photographs. 


T  the  end  of  April  Colonel  .Sparkes 
joined  nie  at  \\'a\v,  having  dis- 
patched Boulnois  to  Rumbek  to 
form  a  post  of  forty  men  there. 
We  had  now  visited  both  our 
eastern  and  western  boundaries,  and  Sparkes 
was  anxious  to  make  a  patrol  directly  south 
from  Waw,  through  the  little  known  >«iam-Niam 
country. 

The  portion  of  this  tribe  which  came  within 
our  boundary  was  governed  by  two  big  chiefs, 
or  "  Sultans "  as  they  are  called,  one  named 
'ranibura,  the  other  Yambeo.  Reports  were 
constantly  reaching  us  to  the  effect  that  this 
tribe,  the  strongest  and  best  armed  in  the 
country,  meant  to  oppose  our  further  advance. 
All  the  smaller  tribes,  especially  the  Bongo  and 


Golo,  were  terrified  at  the  very  name  of 
I'ambura,  who  had  made  constant  raids  on 
their  villages  and  carried  off  all  the  women  and 
children.  We  were  strongly  advised  not  to 
enter  his  country  unless  with  a  large  force. 
Previous  to  starting  on  this  patrol  large  numbers 
of  natives  from  the  surrounding  tribes  came  in 
to  welcome  the  commandant.  They  all  receive^ 
food  and  presents,  and  two  or  three  days' 
feasting  ensued.  Dancing  is  a  favourite  pastime 
amongst  all  native  tribes,  but  more  especially 
amongst  the  men-folk.  The  photo,  here  repro- 
duced shows  a  Dinka  dance  in  progress.  '1  he 
outstretched  arms  and  extended  fingers,  together 
with  the  obvious  exertion  entailed,  are  well 
shown  in  the  picture. 

Our  start   was  delayed  for  some  days  owing 


Front  a] 


A    UlSKA    UAK-L)ANCE. 


[Photo. 


56 


THF.    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


to  S;)ark.es  having  a  bad  attack  of  fever,  and  by 
the  time  we  got  on  our  way  the  rains  had  set  in 
properly  and  there  was  every  prospect  of  a  very 
unpleasant  march. 

No  guide  could  be  found,  as  very  few  people 
had  ever  vi.sited  the  Niam-Niam  and  returned — 
a  sinister  suggestion  of  what  our  own  fate  might 
be.  We  knew,  however,  that  we  had  to  follow 
the  Jur  River  for  about  two  hundred  and  fifty 
miles,  and  hoped  there  to  be  able  to  get  some 
definite  information  concerning  this  strange 
people,  whose  name,  by  the  way,  means  "Great 
Eaters."  Our  force  consisted  of  thirty  men — 
several  of  whom  could  speak  the  Niam-Niam 
language — our  servants,  five  mules,  and  twenty 
donkeys.  These  carried  rations  for  forty-two 
days,  together  with  the  men's  blankets  and 
presents  for  the  great  Tambura.  As  .we  were 
short  of  pack  animals  we  managed  to  engage  a 
few  j)orters  to  cany  our  lighter  burdens.  Up  to 
this  time  the  natives  hereabouts    had    refused 


the  village  of  Kusshuk  Ali.  The  whole  country 
hereabouts  was  several  inches  under  water  and 
the  poor  donkeys  had  a  dreadful  time  of  it, 
constantly  falling  with  their  loads  into  some 
elephant  hole  or  small  khor  (watercourse). 

On  leaving  the  village  we  were  told  that  we 
should  not  find  any  signs  of  natives  for  twelve 
days,  and  that  we  should  certainly  die  in  the 
forest.  The  first  part  of  this  prediction  turned 
out  to  be  correct,  but,  happily  for  us,  the  latter 
did  not.  Our  journey  took  us  through  the 
thickest  jungle  we  had  yet  met  with.  Game  of 
all  sorts  swarmed,  and  had  it  not  been  for  the 
constant  heavy  rains  we  should  liave  had  a 
lovely  trip.  The  kliors  were  now  quite  full  and 
caused  us  endless  delay,  as  when  we  came  to  one 
it  always  meant  getting  out  the  boat  and  taking 
off  all  loads,  only  to  load  up  again  on  the 
other  bank.  My  mule,  carrying  my  bed  and 
clothes,  generally  led  the  way,  and  seems  to 
have  been  used  to  test  the  depth  of  khors  or  the 


THE   EXPEDITION    EN    ROUTE   TO  THE   NIA.M-NIAM 

From  a\  couN tky.  [f'lioto. 


\ 


absolutely  to  carry  a  load,  and  it  was  only  by 
the  exercise  of  great  patience  that  we  managed 
to  persuade  them  to  do  so. 

'rhey  are  always  well  i)aid  and  well  fed,  and 
at  the  jjresent  time  we  have  no  difficulty  in 
getting  about  fifty  carriers  in  Waw  alone.  A 
strong  man  will  simply  run  away  with  a  forty- 
pound  load,  and  is  always  good  for  a  twenty- 
mile  march.  The  accompanying  photograpli 
shows  our  carriers  with  their  miscellaneous  loads. 

After  [)assing  the  ^^'aw  River— which  we 
cros.sed   in  our  useful  canvas   boat     we  reached 


strength  of  bridges.  Through  this  little  arrange- 
ment I  found  most  of  my  belongings  mixed  up 
with  weeds  and  mud  when  I  reached  camp.  I 
had  all  the  luck  in  this  line  during  the  early  part 
of  the  march,  but  later  on  had  the  supreme 
satisfaction  of  seeing  Colonel  Sparkes's  traps 
floating  gaily  down  stream.  Our  chief  enemies 
in  this  country,  by  the  way,  were  the  white  ants, 
which  were  absolutely  ubicjuitous.  It  was  never 
safe  to  leave  anything  on  the  ground  for  more 
than  a  few  minutes,  as  it  was  certain  to  be 
destroyed  by  them.  C)ur  books,  clothes,  etc., 
therefore,  were  cither  hung  u|)  or  taken  to  bed 
with  us  to  keep  them  .safe.  In  the  next  |)lu)to. 
will  be  seen  a  l)ack  view  of  Colonel  Sparke.s, 
wearing  a  coat  which  accidentally  fell  from  its 
peg  and  was  eaten  by  these  terrible  pests. 

We  were  now-well  in  the  elephant  country, 
and  realized  what  an  amount  of  damage  these 
huge  beasts  can  do  to  a   forest.     Nearly  every 


OS    iiiH   MAkcii    IN"    rill,    ii.\iiki:i.(;HA/.A!.. 


57 


day  we  saw  one  ur  more,  as 
our  road  lay  near  the  river. 
One  evening  llie  whole  cara- 
van was  routed  by  an  elephant. 
He  was  between  our  line  and 
the  river,  got  our  wind,  and 
at  once  made  a  bolt  for  cover 
—  crossing  between  S[)arkes 
and  the  guide.  Everyone 
sought  his  own  particular 
tree,  and  the  leading  donkey 
gave  a  strident  bray  which 
stampeded  the  rest  of  the 
animals.  It  was  some  time 
before  we  got  things  straight- 
ened out  again. 

After  marching  for  seven 
days  we  reached  the  deserted 
Frem.h  post  of  Raffele.  This 
was  where  Marchand  had  put 
together  the  boats  w ith  which 
he  reached  Fashoda.  All 
the  buildings  here  had  been 
burned,  but  cotton  bushes 
and  a  few  solitary  garden 
flowers  still  remained  as 
relics  of  the  occupation. 
Above  Raffele  the  river  for 
a  mile  or  so  is  filled  with  huge  rocks,  which 
would  render  it  quite  unnavigable.  I  shot  a 
big  crocodile  here  which  measured  sixteen  feet. 
Our  men  were  exceedingly  fond  of  the  meat, 
preferring  it  to  antelope.  'I'hey  also  prized  the 
musk  glands.  Half  an  hour  after  taking  the 
accompanying  photo,  nothing 
but  the  head  ai 
creature  were  It 
meat  is  cut  into 
dried  in  th( 
w  armed 
over  the  fire, 
and  the  n 
eaten. 

By  this 
time  almost 
everyone 
had  had  one 
or  more 
attacks  of 
fever, 

Sparkes    up  ' 

to  this  date   having 
had  an  attack  every 
second    day.       The 
rains  were  so  heavy 
that  on   several  days  w 
were  not  able  to  light 
fire,  and  went  to  bed  in 
soaking  garments  covered 

VjI.  xi.-8. 


I'AUKES  SCOAT  AKTEK  THE 

[  1  E  .\NTS  H.-\l)  FlXI-i 

'  a]       WITH  II'.         [P/iato. 


EK  THE  ^^^ 

P/wta.  ^\ 


A   SIX  I  r.l.N-IOd  I    CKi  ■CiMil!  K    '-lliil     l:V     llll. 

/•'torn  a  I'hoto. 


by  damp  blankets,  and  with- 
out any  supper  to  cheer  us. 
If  any  jaded  globe-trotter  is 
seeking  novelty,  let  me  re- 
commend him  to  take  a  trip 
to  the  Bahr-el-Ghazal  in  June 
or  July.  I  can  promise  him 
a  moist,  weary,  unpleasant, 
tinned-sausage  time  of  it. 

A  further  march  of  si.\ 
days  took  us  to  a  second 
deserted  French  post,  where 
we  met  the  first  men  we  had 
seen  for  fourteen  days.  They 
were  on  the  0[)posite  bank 
of  the  river,  so  I  launched 
the  boat  and  went  over  to 
see  them.  The  headman 
turned  out  to  be  the  brother 
of  Tambura,  and  he  had 
brought  some  honey  and 
Indian  corn.  As  I  turned  to 
conduct  him  to  the  boat  he 
let  off  a  rifle  within  a  foot  of 
my  head.  It  was  distinctly 
.y,  disconcerting,  but  I  imagine 
.  ^^^^^^  it  was  merely  his  way  of 
^^^^  saying  "  How  do  you  do?" 

He  told  us  that  we  were  five  or  six  days'  march 
from  Sultan  Tambura's  place,  and  at  once  sent 
on  messengers  to  inform  him  of  our  coming. 
He  also  provided  us  with  a  guide. 

From  this  point  we  left  the  river  and  marched 
in    a    south-westerly    direction.      The    country 
changed  in  character,  becom- 
quite    hilly.       Numerous 
swollen    khors    impeded 
our  march,  and  the  boat 
was  in  constant  recjuest. 
Many  barren,  rocky 
mountains,    consist- 
ingof  gigantic  blocks 
of   gneiss,   rose    far 
above  the  tree-tops  ; 
they  were  generally 
peopled   by  huge 
liaboons,  who    filed 
along  parallel  to  us, 
vociferously  barking 
their  disapproval. 
It  was  very  curious 
to  watch  their  antics, 
(iame    entirely    dis- 
ai)|)eared,     and     we 
were  not  even  able 
to  get  guinea  -  fowl, 
and    so    much    bis- 
cuit had  been  spoilt 
by    the    ceaseless 


58 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


large 


downpour  tliat  we  had  to  be  very  careful  about 
the  rations. 

A  four  days'  march  took  us  to  the  first  Niam- 
Niam  village,  where  we  were  most  hospitably 
received,  a  hot  meal  of  chicken  and  boiled  corn, 
flanked  with  a  jar  of  marissa,  or  native  beer, 
being  provided  for  us.  We  noticed  many  curious 
little  huts  raised  on  piles,  the  walls  made  of  blue 
clay  and  the  roof  thatched  with  grass.  These 
were  the  "googoos,"  or  granaries  of  the  country, 
and  are  raised  from  the  ground  to  keep  out  the 
damp,  and  also  to  check  the  insatiable  white 
ants.  After  being  filled  with  corn  they  are 
thatched,  and  keep  the  grain  in  perfect  con- 
dition till  required.  A 
typical  "googoo'Ms  shown 
in  my  next  photo. 

Two    days    later   we 
reached   the   residence  of 
Sultan    Tambura.      He 
came    out    with    a 
following  to  meet  us. 
In    our    honour   all 
the  grass  had  been 
pulled  up  for  a  dis- 
tance of  quite   two 
miles,    making    a 
broad  carriage-way. 

Tambura  was  a 
fine  -  looking  man, 
but  he  wore  a  most 
remarkable  get-up, 
consisting  of  a 
Horn  burg  hat,  a 
Newmarket  coat, 
a  striped  football 
jersey,  loose  trousers,  and  red  shoes.  This 
costume  was  doubtless  assumed  in  our  honour. 
Immediately  behind  him  came  two  little  boys, 
one  carrying  a  very  long  pipe  and  the  other  a 
piece  of  live  charcoal.  The  leading  files  of  the 
accompanying  procession  were  the  band,  who 
blew  ivory  war-horns  and  French  trumpets  or 
beat  side-drums.  Every  man  of  the  escort  was 
armed  with  a  rifle  —  many  of  the  French  pattern 
and  the  remainder  chiefly  Remingtons.  They 
marched  in  stej)  and  had  a  thoroughly  military 
appearance. 

At  the  entrance  to  the  Sultan's  private 
stockade  a  guard  of  about  ten  men  was 
posted  night  and  day,  and  drawn  up  in  an 
open  space  outside  were  about  five  hundred 
armed  men.  'I'here  was  no  talking  or  gesticu- 
lating on  our  arrival,  and  we  at  once  realized 
that  Tambura  was  the  most  important  man  we 
had  yet  had  to  deal  with.  We  were  conducted 
to  a  large  empty  house  with  a  veranda  running 
all  round  it,  which  was  given  to  us  for  x)ur 
personal  use,  whilst  our  men  were  housed   in  a 


similar  building  close  by.  These  houses  were 
seventy  feet  long  and  about  thirty  broad  ;  they 
were  rather  dark,  but  beautifully  cool.  A  meal 
of  chickens,  cooked  whole,  a  la  woodcock,  with 
several  sorts  of  vegetables,  was  quickly  put 
before  us,  and  this  was  served  regularly  morning 
and  evening  during  our  stay. 

Tambura  spoke  Arabic  well,  which  was  a 
great  thing,  as  we  were  able  to  dispense  with 
the  endless  and  unsatisfactory  interpreting.  He 
showed  us  many  of  his  treasures,  including  a 
double-barrelled  hammerless  gun  by  (jreener,  a 
capital  Colt's  revolver,  and  two  magazine  rifles. 
All  these  he  had  received  from  the  French,  who 

had  evidently 
been  in  high 
favour  with  him. 
He  presented  six- 
teen fine  tusks  as 
a  present  to  the 
new  Government, 
and  afterwards 
added  about 
seventy  more  in 
exchange  for 
Khartoum  goods. 
Some  of  these 
tusks  —  together 
with  Sultan  Tam- 
bura himself — are 
shown  in  the  next  snap- 
shot. Tambura  is  seen 
standing  in  front  of  the 
great  nagara,  or  war- 
drum,  surrounded  by  his 
ivory.  The  house  in  the 
background  is  the  one  occupied  by  our  men, 
while  the  two  flags  on  the  right  are  placed  in 
front  of  the  entrance  to  our  own  house. 

The  Niam  Niam  were  known  to  be  cannibals, 
and  I  was  anxiously  on  the  look-out  for  signs  of 
this  awful  custom.  The  whole  tribe  have  the 
incisor  teeth  of  both  jaws  filed  into  points. 
This  is  quite  distinctive  of  the  Niam-Nia:n,  and 
gives  them  a  savage  appearance  when  grinning. 
Tambura  spoke  (luite  o[)cnly  about  cannibalism. 
He  said  that  he  and  those  immediately  around 
him  did  not  indulge  in  it,  but  he  i)ointed  out  to 
us  several  great  "  man-eaters."  One  of  these 
told  us  that  he  could  not  eat  a  white  man  as  it 
was  sure  to  make  him  ill,  and  then,  pointing 
a[)preciatively  at  Sparkes's  I'-gyptian  servant, 
said,  "That's  the  colour  I  like!"  The  pros- 
pective victim  got  terribly  chaffed  about  this, 
and  my  own  small  boy  was  quite  nervous  during 
tile  rest  of  our  stay. 

Bananas  are  cultivated  by  all  classes  in  this 
district  and  were  a  real  treat  to  us.  Indian 
corn   is  grown   in    great    quantities,   and   many 


A  NIAM-NIAM   "  GOOGOO,"  OK  GRANARY.        \Plloio. 


ON    THE    MARCH    lx\    THE    iJAHR-EL-CiHA/Al.. 


59 


"rt>;«  «]       SL'LTAN    TA.MUURA    A:. 


)W)  vegetables,    including 

'~'  tomatoes  and  onions, 

havQ  been  introduced  by 
the  French.  The  Niam- 
Niam  are  a  very  warlike  race,  and 
certainly  the  most  powerful  in  our 
district.  This  is,  of  course,  due  to 
the  large  number  of  firearms  they 

possess,  and  also  to  the  state  of  discipline  they 

are   in.     The    men   all  wear   small  straw   hats 

covered  with  cocks'  feathers,  and 

many  of  them  use  a  blue   or  red 

dye   with    which    they   paint    their 

bodies.     They  were  the  only  tribe 

we    met    with   who   did   this.     All 

the  men  wear  loose-fitting  knicker- 
bockers made  from  the  bark  of  a 

tree.    This  is  called  "  roko,"  is  dull 

red    in   colour,  and   very   durable. 

These  curious   hats    and   breeches 

are  well  shown  in   the  photo,  here 

produced,  which  depicts  a  group  of 

Niam-Niam  warriors.     Those  who 

do  not  carry  rifles  are  armed  with 

throwing  -  spears     and     throwing - 

knives  called  "  pinga,"  which  they 

carry  inside    their   wicker    shields. 

They    also    wear    an    ugly-looking 

knife  in  their  belts.   They  are  great 

elephant  hunters,  large  parties  going 

out  for  two  or  three  months  at  a 

time  for  this  purpose.     They  have 

a  good     number    of    old     nni//le- 

loading  elephant  rifies  and  plenty 

of  ammunition.     Most  of  the  ele- 
phants are,  however,  killed  by  fire. 
Miles  of  country  are  beaten  when 

the  grass  is  dry  and  tall,  and  the  /vw/nj 


ele[)hanls  in  the 
cordon  are  gra- 
dually brought 
together  and  sur- 
rounded by  hun- 
dreds of  natives. 
At  a  given  signal 
on  the  uar-horn 
the  grass  is 
lighted  simul- 
taneously by 
each  man.  The 
poor  elephants, 
who  dare  not 
face  this  circle 
of  fire,  die  from 
suffocation. 

Medicine  was 
very  popular 
among  theXiau':- 
Xiam,and  I  gave 
away  all  the  pills  and         *  powders  that  had 

escaped    the    rain.  These,  however, 

did  not  seem  to  suit  Tambura  at  all,  as  he  kept 
complaining  of  a  dreadful  pain  in  his  "middle," 
which  he  assured  me  could  only  be  cured  by  a 
dose  of  "Abu  Sim,"  or  Father  of  Poisons,  by 
which  he  meant  whisky.  As  we  were  practically 
out  of  this  useful  commodity,  I  am  afraid  he 
must  have  suffered  a  good  deal. 

We  spent  a  week  with  Sultan  Tambura,  and 


A   GROL.'!'   UK    NIAM-NIAM    WAkKlUKS. 


[rAr/a. 


6o 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


found  him  only  too  anxious  to  help  us  in  every 
way.  He  was  in  want  of  Khartoum  goods  and 
we  were  afier  ivory  and  food,  so  we  were  able  to 
accommodate  each  other.  He  sent  us  three 
hundred  banana  trees  to  our  post  at  ^^'aw,  and 
expressed  a  great  desire  to  visit  the  Sirdar  at 
Khartoum.  We  left  him  a  mule  to  ride,  and  in 
return  he  lent  us  fifty  carriers  to  make  up  for 
the  losses  we  had  had  amonsist  our  animals.  He 
also  lent  us  one  hundred  carriers  for  the  ivory 
we  had  bought  off  him,  so  we  started  back  quite 
a  large  party.  'l"he  ivory,  under  an  escort  of 
ten  men,  was  to  go  by  a  new  route  to  \\'aw, 
whilst  Colonel  Sparkes  and  I,  with  twenty  men, 
intended  returning  through  fresh  country  to  our 
first  post  at  'long.  This  meant  crossing  the 
Jur  River,  which  turned  out  to  be  a  very  big 
undertaking. 

The  annexed  photo,  shows  our  carriers  just 


covering  the  patches  with  melted  rubber  col 
lected  from  the  trees.  Very  luckily  we  were 
enabled  to  engage  the  help  of  a  dug-out  canoe 
which  would  take  abcnit  eight  men  at  a  time. 
We  started  to  cross  over  at  dawn.  The  stream 
was  so  strong  that  every  load  was  carried  far 
down  stream.  Only  Sparkes  and  myself  and 
one  other  man  knew  anything  about  rowing,  so 
all  the  work  fell  on  us. 

The  donkeys  were  made  to  swim  behind  tlie 
boat,  and  nearly  capsized  us  each  time.  The 
mules  absolutely  refused  to  face  the  water,  and 
we  thought  for  a  time  we  were  beaten.  At  last, 
however,  I  found  one  of  the  men  who  could 
swim,  and  with  him  managed  to  ride  them  into 
the  river  well  up  stream  and  swim  them  over 
without  much  bother.  As  we  knew  that  there 
were  plenty  of  crocodiles  about  the  work  was 
none  too   pleasant.     Soon  after   the  sun   went 


leaving  Tambura's  stockade  with  the  ivory ; 
each  man  carried  about  fifty  to  sixty  pounds 
weight  and  his  own  food  for  what  proved  to  be 
about  two  hundred  miles.  Tusks  over  sixty 
pounds  in  weight  were  slung  on  a  pole  and 
carried  between  two  men. 

We  reached  our  old  camp  on  the  banks  of 
the  Jur  River  after  a  march  of  five  days.  At 
this  time  the  river  was  at  its  highest,  rushing 
down  at  a  tremendous  rate  between  banks  (juite 
two  hundred  yards  apart.  We  could  see  that 
we  were  in  f(;r  a  big  business,  having  to  get 
about  a  hundred  men  across,  with  all  our 
baggage,  as  well  as  fifteen  animals,  and  only 
one  small  canvas  boat  at  our  disposal.  As 
this  was  torn  in  several  i)laces  we  had  to  patch 
it    up  with  strapping   out   of  our   medical   box, 


down  we  had  transferred  everything  to  the 
opposite  bank,  with  the  trifling  loss  of  a  keel- 
rope.  Taking  into  consideration  the  strength 
of  the  stream  I  always  think  this  the  hardest 
day's  work  we  went  through. 

Our  day's  exertion  was  succeeded  by  one  of 
the  most  terrific:  thunderstorms  we  had  experi- 
enced, and  poor  Sparkes,  who  had  had  fever  all 
day,  went  to  bed  with  a  tem[)erature  of  losdeg. 
At  dayljreak  we  started  marching  north-east  and 
said  good-bye  to  the  Jur  River.  Twelve  miles 
took  us  to  a  Niam-Niam  village,  where  we  were 
offered  as  food  a  foul-smelling  mass  whicli  turned 
out  to  be  the  fiesh  of  an  elephant  deceased 
some  two  months  previously. 

A  further  march  of  two  days  through  undu- 
lating country   and   we   reached   the   village    of 


ON    THi: 

Sheik  I'.ti  DoriiiKi,  brother  of 
Tanibura.  No  game  had  been 
seen  for  three  weeks,  and  the 
few  guinea-fowl  we  were  able  to 
get  here  were  a  great  treat.  Our 
carriers— some  fifty  to  sixty  m 
number— were  havmg  rather  a 
hard  time  of  it,  as  we  were 
quite  unable  to  feed  them,  and 
expected  each  day  to  shoot  a 

beast. 

At  this  village  I  met  tlie  Urst 
native    musician     1 
had  seen.      He  was 
an  old  man,  wearing 
the    " roko "    bark 
breeches    and   also 
several   skins   of 
animals  and  tails  of 
wild  cats.    Over  his 
shoulder  was  slung 
a  small  ivory  horn, 
half  covered  by  the 
skin  of  a  snake.   He 
played  on  a  curious 
kind  of  mandoline, 
the  strings  of  which 
were  made  from  the  hair  of 
a  giraffe's  tail.     As  his  tune 
progressed  he  did  a  curious 
kind  of  step 
dance,  the  whole 
effect  being  cer- 
tainly    pleasing. 
He  was  a  plea- 
sant old  man  and 
marched    about 
a  hundred  miles 
with     us,    being 
highly  delighted 
with  a  present  of 
a  few  beads  and 
some     brass 
bracelets. 

The    sheik    com- 
plained  of  a   raid 
having    been    made 
upon    him     by    the 
Bongos,     who    were 
now  under  our  pro- 
tection.    He  told  us 
that  he  had  not  fol- 
lowed them  as  he  did 
not  wish  to  interfere 
withtheOovernment. 
The  next  day,  how- 
ever, we  came  upon 
throe    or    four    dead 
Bongos     and     grain 


MARCH     IN      llli:    liAHR-EL-GHAZAL. 


(')i 


A  CURIOb"^    cl-N     N.'.il\t    MUSICIAN    WHO 
ACCOMI-AN'IED    THE     PARTY    FOR    MANY 

From  ii\  mii.es.  {Photo. 


THE     AUTHOR 

Front  a\ 


'ONE     ANn    ONt-Y     SHIRT 
TKE   I'.XI'EOITIDN. 


ON 


HIS     KKTUK.N     l-KOM 

[I'lwto 


and  loot  scattered 
all  over  the  track, 
which  scarcely  fitted 
in  with  his  tale. 

After  a  two  day.s' 
march  I  was  lucky 
enough    to     kill    a 
hartebeeste,  the  first 
animal  we  had  seen 
since     leaving    the 
river.     Our  hungry 
carriers   could    not 
even    wait  to  cook 
the  meat,  but  ate  it 
raw.     The  following 
day  we  struck  theTong  River 
about  forty  miles  above  our 
post,  and  halted  for  the  day. 
W'c  soon  reached  our  post 
long,    which    we    found 
much  improved.     The  rains 
continued  daily  and  march- 
ing became  more  and  more 
difficult.      Sixty  miles   took 
us    back    to    our    startmg- 
point,    Waw,    where    we 
once    more    had    to     cross 
the  river.     Colonel  Sparkes 
had  been   ill  practically  the 
whole     march,     which     had 
lasted     fifty- 
four   days,    and 
reached    Waw 
completely  worn 
out.      His  fever 
continued  for 
about    a    fort- 
night,   when     I 
persuaded    him 
to   go  down    to 
Khartoum.  The 
country    had 
been     visited 
east,    west,   and 
south,     a  n  d 
friendly    relations 
established      with 
most    of    the    tribes, 
and  we  all  felt  badly 
in    want    of    a    rest. 
C)ur    clothes,    too, 
were  practically  done 
for,  as  will    be   seen 
from  the  last  photo., 
whii  h  shows  the  back 
view  of  my  one  and 
only    shirt   on    my 
return  from  this  long 
and  arduous  patrol. 


Francisca  Flachalek,  the  Female  Burglar. 

1]V    ]..     H.    ElSKNMANN,    Ol-    \'lLNNA. 

Being  an  account   of  the  extraordinary   career  of  a    remarkable   woman,    who    caused  a  veritable  reign 

of  terror  among  nervous  householders  in   Vienna.      The  audacity   and   skill  of  this  one-armed  female 

criminal  enabled  her  to  perform  seemingly  impossible  feats,  and  when  finally  caught  and  placed  in  the 

dock  she  was  charged  with  no  fewer  than  thirty-nine  burglaries ! 


HENEVP:R  we  hear  of  a  daring 
burglary  perpetrated  by  an  unknown 
hand,  we  naturally  suppose  that  the 
crime  has  been  committed  by  a 
man,  and  probably  a  healthy  and 
powerful  one  to  boot.  That  the  criminal  might 
be  a  woman  never  enters  our  heads.  And  yet, 
during  a  space  of  not  much  more  than  a  year, 
many  dozens  of  skilful  burglaries,  some  of  them 
carried  out  with  extraordinary  audacity  and  skill 
and  invoking  the  theft  of  many  hundred  pounds' 
worth  of  valuables,  have  been  committed  in 
Vienna  by  a  woman — and  a  one-armed  woman 
at  that. 

This  one-armed  female  burglar,  in  all  human 
probability,  has  established  a  world's  record  in 
crime  with  her  thirty-nine  proved  burglaries 
within  one  year,  while  as  many  again  have 
probably  not 
been  brought 
home  to  her. 
In  her  lodging 
in  the  Kopp- 
strasse  there 
was  found  a 
regular  store 
of  jewels, 
clothes,  arti- 
cles de  luxe, 
and  house- 
hold utensils, 
the  fruits  of 
her  misplaced 
activity. 

Francisca 
Machaiek,  as 
this  artist  in  burglaries  is  called,  is  now  thirty-six 
years  old.  She  may  plead  as  an  excuse  for  her 
criminal  tendencies  that  she  lost  her  parents  in 
early  childhood,  and  therefore  lacked  all  training 
and  sujjervision  during  the  years  when  these  are 
most  necessary,  as  no  one  took  any  notice  of  her. 
besides  this,  her  health  was Weak  and  she  only 
attended  school  for  a  short  [)eriod.  Thus  it  came 
about  that  she  lived  all  alone  in  a  miserable  hut 
outside  her  little  native  village  in  Moravia,  and 
all  she  got  fron)  the  mayor  of  the  place,  whose 
duty  it  should  have  been  to  look  after  her  as  an 
orphan,  was  the  advice  to  go  begging.  This 
advice  she  took,  soliciting  alms  regularly  in 
various  directions.  Soon  this  small  vagrant 
turned    tin  •!',  and  as  such   made   the   acquaint- 


•iill-.    l-OLlCt.    111010tji:Al'll    ol'    KUANCISCA  MAtllAI.tK,  THi;    I-li.MAl.li    ULIiCl.AK    UV    VlliNNA. 


ance  of  the  inside  of  u  prison  as  early  as  her 
twelfth  year.  AVhen  thirteen  years  old  a  disease 
from  which  she  suffered  rendered  necessary  the 
amputation  of  her  left  arm.  As  she  received 
no  assistance  whatever  from  any  quarter — and  it 
was  impossible  for  her,  uneducated  and  maimed 
as  she  was,  to  earn  her  own  living  honestly — 
begging  and  theft  were  her  only  remaining  re- 
sources. These  soon  brought  her  into  contact 
with  the  law,  and  conviction  followed  convic- 
tion. She  has  probably  spent  at  least  a  quarter 
of  her  days  within  the  walls  of  various  prisons. 

In  1894  Francisca  Machaiek  came  to  \'ienna, 
where  it  is  beyond  doubt  that,  at  least  at  first, 
she  endeavoured  to  earn  her  living  in  an  honest 
manner.  In  the  end,  ho.vever,  she  took  to 
begging  again.  As  a  mendicant  she  came  into 
conflict   with    the    police    regulations,   and    was 

finally  perma- 
n  e  n  1 1  y  e  x  - 
I)elled  from 
Vienna  and 
forcibly  con- 
ducted back 
to  her  native 
village.  But 
there,  as  be- 
fore, she  met 
wilh  no  suc- 
c  o  u  r  ,  and 
hence  f or t  h 
her  life  for  at 
least  three 
\ears  was  as 
wandering  as 
that  of  a  gipsy. 
During  the  whole  of  this  time,  according  to  her 
own  confession,  she  lived  exclusively  by  begging. 
At  last,  weary  of  her  nomad  life,  Machaiek 
returned  in  1900  to  Vienna,  and,  as  she  knew 
from  previous  experience  that  a  professional 
beggar  in  \'ienna  is  terribly  harassed  by  the 
police,  she  made  a  virtue  of  necessity,  gave  up 
begging  altogether,  and  turned  burglar,  com- 
mitting one  burglary  after  another  with  astonish- 
ing b(;ldness  and  skill,  in  spite  of  her  crippled 
condition.  She  chose  her  victims  among  all 
classes  of  society,  robbing  the  town  flats  of  the 
rich  while  they  were  away  in  the  country  and 
the  lodgings  of  the  poor  while  they  were  absent 
at  work. 

The   methods   she    followed   in    these    under- 


iR.wciscA   .macii.\i.i:k,    riii:   fi:mai.i:   ulrc.lar. 


6- 


takings  Were  very  various.  I  kr  most  comiuoii 
courj-c  was  to  lnul  uiit  fruiii  tlic  concieri^t-  of  a 
housL',  or  the  neighbours,  by  means  of  cunning 
inquiries,  what  tenements  were  left  empty  for 
the  moment.  ,  For  this  purpose  she  often  pre- 
tended to  have  been  sent  to  fetch  clothes  for 
the  wash  or  to  have  a  message  to  deliver,  'llil n 
she  used  to  open  the  door  of  the  tenement  with 
a  false  key  in  broad  daylight,  even  safety  locks 
yielding  to  her  skill.  In  spite  of  her  one  arm 
she  displayed  extraordinary  aptitude  in  the 
manufacture  of  skeleton  keys.  She  would  hold 
a  key  which  had  to  be  filed  down  with  her  foot 
or  in  her  teeth,  while  she  used  the  file  with  her 
one  hand.  Her  teeth,  by  the  way,  played  a 
great  role  in  all  her  burglaries,  for  it  seems 
certain  that  she  employed  them  somehow  or 
other  in  breaking  open  chests  and  drawers,  and 
also  in  packing  up  and  carrying  away  stolen 
property.  This 
employment  of  her 
teeth  in  her  work 
as  a  burglar  no 
doubt  explains  why 
seven  otherwise 
sound  front  teeth 
were  found  to  be 
broken  off  short 
when  the  police 
doctor  e.xamined 
her  mouth. 

Once  she  had 
effected  entrance 
into  a  flat,  she  col- 
lected and  carried 
off  with  the  greatest 
thoroughness 
everything  she  re- 
garded as  worth 
taking.  Sometimes 
she  paid  several 
visits  to  the  same 
flat,  and  then  she 
would  literally  carry 
everything  away 
except  the  furni- 
ture. She  used  to 
wrap  up  the  stolen 

property  in  an  ami)le  piece  of  cloth,  which  she 
carried  slung  over  one  shoulder  in  the  way 
peculiar  to  this  country.  Then  she  would 
watch  her  opportunity  when  the  corridor  and 
staircase  were  deserted,  and  so  leave  the 
house  without  exciting  any  notice.  Altogether 
the  mass  of  her  spoils  was  so  great  that  it 
at  first  ap[)eared  incredible  that  a  single  one- 
armed  woman  could  possibly  have  carried  away 
so  much.  When  she  once  got  clear  of  the 
house,  however,  she   often   took   a   cab   and  so 


SHE     lOUIC     AinANlAI.K    I'h      I  111-. 
ON    ONE   SIDK 


drove  home  in  triumph  with  the  stolen  property. 
This  was  [>roved  to  have  been  done  in  many 
cases.  To  take  one  instance.  A  newly-married 
couple  named  Hupka  suffered  very  severely  Irom 
her  de[)redations.  While  they  were  away  on 
thJir  honeymoon  Krancisca  Machalek  broke 
open  the  flat  they  had  just  furnished  and  carried 
off  everything  of  any  value,  including  all  the 
clothes,  linen,  boots,  and  shoes.  Even  Krau 
Hupka's  bridal  dress  was  taken,  together  with  all 
the  wedding  presents  and  the  poor  bride's  dowry. 
The  rapidity  with  which  Francisca  Machalek 
went  about  her  work  is  well  shown  in  the  follow- 
ing case.  A  certain  Frau  Barbara  Sladik  crossed 
the  passage  from  her  flat  to  that  of  a  neighbour  in 
order  to  return  a  book  she  had  borrowed,  and 

meanwhile  left  htr 
own  door'open.  As 
ill-luck  would  have 
it  Machalek  hap- 
pened to  be  on  the 
staircase  at  the 
moment  and  ob- 
served this.  She 
at  once  entered 
through  the  open 
door  and  set  to 
work.  When  Frau 
Sladik  returned  to 
her  room — accord- 
ing to  her  own 
account,  after  a 
lapse  of  only  one 
minute — she  found 
a  locked  chest 
broken  open,  the 
jewels  and  money 
it  had  contained 
gone,  and  the 
thief  already  dis- 
appeared. 

When,  as  some- 
times happened, 
she  was  caught  in 
the  act  by  the  in- 
habitants of  the 
house  she  broke 
into,  she  either 
confessed  her  guilt  at  once  and  offered  to  restore 
the  stolen  property,  or  else  took  advantage  of 
the  persons'  surprise  to  shove  them  on  one  side 
and  esca[)c  arrest  by  hasty  llight. 

With  the  stolen  property  Machalek  drove  a 
good  trade.  She  managed,  with  great  adroit- 
ness, to  completely  deceive  her  neighbours  and 
the  tradesmen  living  near  her  as  to  her  real 
character.  She  disposed  of  her  l)ooly  locally, 
representing  that  she  made  a  business  of  redeem- 
ing forfeitcil  pleiiges   in   the  pawnshops.     Thus 


ll-.l(MI.\>>      M  KCUIM- 

AND   ESCAIJi." 


.-.HOVE  THEM 


64 


THE     Wll)!-:    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


no  suspicion  was  aroused  as  to  the  origin 
the  articles,  and  she  was  able  to  get  rid 
a  great  quantity  of  i)lunder  at  fair  prices. 

The  way  in  which  tliis  remarkable 
woman  carried  out  some  of  her  burglaries 
was  daring  in  the  extreme.  Once  she  came 
to  a  house  and  di.scovered— as  usual,  by 
cautious  inquiries— that  a  tenement  on  the 
fourth  story  was  for  the  moment  unoccupied, 
the  tenants  being  out.  She  hastened  up 
the  staircase  ;  but,  despite  all  her  efforts, 
was  unable  to  open  the  door  with  any  of 
her  false  keys.  ^Vhen  about  to  retire  in 
disgust  she  noticed,  through  a  window  of 
the  corridor  which  opened  on  a  court,  that 
one  of  the  windows  of  the  flat  in  question, 
also  looking  on  to  the  court,  and  about 
four  feet  distant  from  the  corridor  window, 
was  open.  Very  few  able  -  bodied  men 
would  care  to  take  a  leap  from  one  fourth- 
story  wmdow  to  another  at  right  angles  to 
it  and  four  feet  distant,  with  the  prospect 
of  a  terrible  fall  if  the  narrow  window-sill 
were  missed,  as  was  the  case  here.  But  this 
one-armed  woman  performed  this  daring 
feat  without  the  slightest  hesitation.  She 
jumped  from  one  window  to  the  other  with- 
out any  more  nervousness  than  when,  in 
her  early  days  as  a  girl  tramp,  she  used  to 
jump  across  a  ditch  by  the  side  of  a  road. 
Once   safely    over,   she   pushed  open    the 


'■/ 


im:     1  lJLUlil-.->luUV     1I.,\1      VVlill.ll       l  KA-.t-lbCA     MAI.I1A1.1-.K     llKoKli 
INTO     IIV     JUMriNc;      FKOM     ONE,     WINDOW     TO     ANOTMIiR.        Till-: 

From  (t\  WINDOWS  ahe  maukkd  with  ckosmcs.  [Photo. 


"  SMK  JCMTKO    I-KOM    ONH. 
WINDOW  TO  1  IlIC  OTHKU." 


window  and  en- 
tered, opened 
several  boxes, 
and  appro- 
priated whatever 

she  fancied.  She  then  returned  to  the  corridor 
by  the  same  breakneck  xouW.  Once  in  the 
passage  she  left  the  house  with  her  booty  with- 
out exciting  notice.  W'hun  the  tenants  of  the 
flat  returned  and  r,aw  that  a  robbery  had  been 
carried  out  they  naturally  thought  that  a  burglar 
had  got  in  through  the  door  by  means  of  a  false 
key,  and  even  when  they  noticed  a  footprint  on 
liie  window-sill  of  the  vestibule  they  would  not 
have  thought  that  the  burglar  had  got  in  that 
way  had  they  not  been  told  so.  It  happened, 
however,  that  a  slater  engaged  on  the  roof  of  a 
neighbouring  house  had  been  a  fascinated 
witness  of  Maclialek's  daring  return  leap,  and 
ha<l  given  infornialion  to  tlu;  coiicicri^c  as  soon 
as  he  could  get  down  from  his  elevated  position. 
On  another  occasion  Machalek  di.scoveretl  a 
flat  the  occupants  of  which  were  in  the  couiUr)'. 
Here    again,    however,    the    lock    of    the    door 


I  RANCISCA     M.\(li.\l.i:K.      llli:     1  I MALF.     P.URC.LAR. 


6S 


Oil  yet  another  occasion,  when  slie  was 
uiisucccssful  in  ()[)cning  a  door,  she  revenged 
herself  1))'  steahng  two  incandescent  gas 
hun[)S  Irom  the  staircase,  and  in  disgust  at 
tlie  poor  result  of  this  e.\i)edition  went 
straiL;ht  to  a  shop  to  sell  the  burners. 
While  waiting  at  the  shop  Machalek  actually 
managed  to  aiuiex  a  gold  watch  and  chain 
belonging  to  the  shopkeeper  I 

One  of  the  female  burglar's  most  desperate 
and  daring  e.\[)loits  was  the  following.  She 
had  discovered  that  the  flat  of  an  opera 
singer  was  occupied  only  by  a  servant  maid, 
the  singer  herself,  with  her  family,  being  in 
the  country.  She  accordingly  determined 
to  pay  the  place  a  visit.  She  contrived  to 
slip  into  the  attic  of  the  house  one  day, 
when  the  door  which  led  to  it  happened  to 
be  o[)en,  and  allowed  herself  to  be  locked 
u[)  there.  When  night  came  she  climbed 
through  a  little  window  on  to  the  roof,  and 
from  there  let  herself  down  a  whole  story 
by  means  of  two  clothes-lines  knotted 
together,  until  she  came  upon  an  open 
window  belonging  to  the  apartment  she 
desired  to  enter.  Had  anyone  seen  this 
one-armed  woman  climbing  down  the  side 
of  one  of  the  high  Viennese  houses,  in  all 
likelihood  clinging  with  her  teeth  as  well 
as  her  one  hand  to  the  frail  cord  which 
supported  her,  he  would  probably  have 
thought  that  some  cripple  had  been  left  in 


SHE    REIURNED    IIV   THE   SAME 
HAZAKDOUS   ROUTE." 


resisted  her  utmost  efforts  ;  but  the  next  Hat 
on  the  same  staircase  was  empty  and  open, 
as  plasterers  and  painters  were  busy  pre- 
paring it  for  a  new  tenant.  She  managed 
to  slip  into  this  flat  one  evening  without 
being  seen  after  the  workmen  had  gone 
away,  and  when  it  was  night  she  opened  a 
window  and  dropped  down  upon  a  narrow 
ledge,  no  broader  than  a  man's  hand,  which 
ran  along  one  side  of  the  house.  On  this 
she  managed  to  walk,  holding  on  to  the  wall 
with  her  one  hand,  till  she  came  to  a  window 
of  the  next  flat.  This  she  broke  noiselessly, 
in  the  ordinary  burglar's  way,  by  means  of 
a  sticky  cloth  pasted  over  it,  and  then 
entered  the  flat.  Here  she  appropriated  a 
quantity  of  valuables  and  other  property, 
and  returned  before  the  night  was  over  by 
the  same  hazardous  route,  but  this  time 
carrying  her  bundle  on  her  back,  jjrobably 
holding  it  fast  with  her  teeth.  Ikfore  the 
workmen  came  in  the  morning,  but  alter  the 
main  gale  of  the  house  had  been  oi)ened, 
she  left  the  premises  unchallenged. 

Vol.  .\i.-9. 


I  III 

111.  a 

1    A  IV      > 

V  .\i   K  1   1  '     r 

OK 

ANOTIIKK 

THE  CROSSliS    INUICATK   THE    WINDOWS. 


66 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


a  burning  house  to  make  her  escape  as  well 
as  she  could.  He  would  certainly  never  ha\e 
dreamed  for  an;  instant  that  anyone  could 
run  such  terrible  risks  in  order  to  make  a  living. 
However,  Machalek  was  not  observed  in  the 
darkness  of  the  night,  and  without  making  the 
least  noise  she  entered  the  rooms  from  the 
window,  ransacked  the  cupboards  and  chests 
which  she  found  without  waking  the  servant, 
and  after  collecting  a  number  of  small  but 
valuable  objects  left  the 
flat  by  the  door  leading 
to  the  staircase,  the  key 
of  which  happened  to  Ije 
in  the  lock.  W'hen  morr.- 
ing  came  she  escaped  un- 
noticed from  the  house, 
as  on  other  occasions, 
and  added  one  n)ore  to 
the  long  list  of  mysterious 
burglaries  which  worried 
the  Vienna  police.  The 
manner  in  which  the  bur- 
glary had  been  effected 
was,  of  course,  revealed 
the  next  day  by  the  sight 
of  the  two  clothes-lines 
hanging  down  from  the 
roof,  but  no  one  ima- 
gined that  a  woman,  let 
alone  a  one-armed  one, 
could  have  been  the  per- 
petrator. The  burglar 
would  have  remained  un- 
discovered to  this  day  it 
various  objects  belonging 
to  the  opera  singer  had 
not  been  found  in  Macha- 
lek's  lodging  after  her 
arrest. 

Fmally,  Nemesis  over- 
took this  remarkable 

female  outlaw.  Various  clues  having  led  the 
|)olice  to  suspect  the  identity  of  the  long-sought 
burglar,  whom  they  had  never  been  able  to 
catch  in  the  act,  Machalek  was  arrested  on  the 
13th  of  January,  1902.  When  first  examined 
she  obstinately  denied  the  charges  brought 
again.st  her,  and  only  confessed  to  having  com- 
mitted the  various  thefts  one  by  one  when  con- 
Ironted  with  irrefutable  proofs,  such  as,  in  most 
cases,  stolen  objects  actually  found  in  her 
posses.sion. 

When  she  was  tried  before  a  Vienna  jury  on 
the  26th  and  27th  of  August,  1902,  she  was 
charged  with  being  an  habitual  thief  and  vagrant 
and  also  with  Iiaving  committed  no  fewer  than 
thirty-nine  burghiries. 


TMF,  HOUSE  FliOM  1  HE  ATTIC  WINDOW  mi  uiiicil  IRAN'ClsCA 
MACHALEK  LET  HEKSEl.F  DOWN  UY  TWO  t:i  OTHKS-I.INES  TO 
THE    WINDOW   OK    A    ROOM    BELOW.      THE    KP  SI'ECI  IVE  Wl  N  DOW  S 

I'yoin  a\  AUE  shown  ijy  chosses.  [Photo. 


To  all  these  counts  she  finally  pleaded  guilty, 
but  it  is  absolutely  certain  that  the  total  number 
of  her  burglaries  was  far  greater  than  the  number 
stated,  though  it  was  impossible  to  bring  all  of 
them  home  to  her. 

The  trial  of  Francisca  Machalek  was  an 
extremely  interesting  one,  as  in  answer  to  the 
questions  of  the  presiding  judge,  the  Public 
Prosecutor,  and  her  own  counsel,  she  gave  an 
impressive  description  of  her  own  past  life  and 

revealed  a  state  of  social 
misery  of  such  a  pitiful 
character  as  is  seldom 
heard  of.  She  described 
the  terms  of  imprison- 
ment she  had  suffered  in 
her  youth  as  the  best 
days  of  her  life,  and  said 
she  was  anxious  to  find 
herself  again  in  confine- 
ment. \\'hen  asked  by 
the  judge  if  she  had  not 
learned  that  theft  was 
forbidden  by  her  religion, 
she  answered,  "  Yes  ;  but 
if  one  cannot  work,  what 
is  one  to  do  ?  " 

The  defending  counsel 
put  in  the  plea  of  force 
majeure,  a  plea  which  in 
Austria  includes  cases 
where  circumstances  are 
so  strong  that  it  is  morally 
impossible  to  resist  the 
temptation.  He  pointed 
to  her  destitution  and 
laid  stress  on  her  crippled 
state,  which  prevented 
her  from  finding  any 
work,  and  referred  to 
the  inadetjuate  provision 
which  IS  made;  by  the 
State  and  society  in  Austria  for  such  poor 
persons.  "  When,"  said  her  counsel,  "  sickness 
is  added  to  hunger,  it  is  surely  in  the  course  of 
Nature  that  a  suffering  human  being  should  lay 
hands  on  other  people's  jjioperty.  It  was  the 
duty  of  the  Stale  to  provide  this  woman  with 
bread.  'Phe  State  should  be  in  the  dock,  not 
this  poor  creature  before  us." 

In  spite  of  this  elocjuent  appeal,  the  jury,  of 
course,  had  no  choice  but  to  bring  in  a  unani- 
mous verdict  of  "  duilly."  The  Court,  however, 
took  the  extenuating  circumstances  of  Macha- 
lek's  incapacity  to  work  and  her  neglected  up- 
bringing into  consideration,  and  passed  what 
was,  considering  her  manifold  crimes,  a  very 
mild  sentence— five  years'  penal  servitude. 


The  Wilson  Life  Insurance  Fraud. 

Hn       I  ><  ik(  H  ll\      \  I  IN      II  1. IONIAN. 

The   story    of    one  of   the  most    remarkable    frauds   ever   perpetrated    upon   a    life    insurance  company. 

How    two    men     and    a    woman    obtained    fifty    thousand    dollars    by  means  of    a    clever    plot    and    got 

safely  away  with  the  money.     The  fraud  was  only  discovered    by  the   merest   accident. 


H  XI"^  of  tlic  cleverest  frauds  ever 
practised  upon  a  life  insurance 
coni[)any  took  place  about  sixteen 
years  ai;o  in  a  remote  village  in 
Wisconsin,  in  the  United  States. 
Huntley,  a  scattered  hamlet  of  eight  hundred 
inhabitants,  was  the  terminus  and  single  station 
of  a  branch  line  of  the  CM.  and  L. R.R. 
Every  morning  a  discarded  engine  drew  a 
melancholy-looking  coach  containing  a  solitary 
mail  sack-  and  on  rare  occasions  a  passenger — 
u[)  to  our  little  village  ;  but  for  this  we  sh  )uld 
have  been  cut  off  from  the  outside  world  com- 
pletely. It  was  an  indescribably  dull  and  sleepy 
little  place,  where  the  men  congregated  at  the 
one  store  in  the  evenings  to  discuss  the  crops 
and  the  price  of  hay,  and 
where  the  women  looked 
upon  a  funeral  as  their  only 
recreation.  My  father  had 
charge  of  the  plan  of  the 
village  cemetery,  and  wlien 
a  death  occurred  a  lot  was 
selected  from  this  plan,  and 
my  father  gave  the 
necessary  instruc- 
tions for  the  digging 
of  the  grave. 

One  hot  afternoon 
in  August  our  front- 
door bell  rang.  Now 
this  door  was  never 
used  save  by  the 
minister  wiien  he 
made  his  periodical 
call,  and  with  the 
curiosity  of  a  country 
girl  I  rushed  to  the 
door  to  see  who  the 
unexpected  caller 
might  be.  A  well- 
dressed,  middle  aged 
man  stood  on  the 
steps,  hat  in  hand. 
He  iiKiuired  for  my 
father.  I  replied 
that  he  was  not  at 
the  house  and  asked 
if  I  could  take  his 
message.  He  re- 
plied that  his  name 
was    Barber,    and 


IIK     INOl'IKKU    KUK    MV    KA  I'llKK. 


that  he  had  brought  his  wife's  remains  to  the 
village  for  burial,  as  it  had  been  her  home  as  a 
child.  He  came,  he  said,  from  lio.scobel,  fifty 
miles  distant,  but  having  arrived  ■too  late  for  the  ' 
branch  train  he  had  been  obliged  to  hire  a  team 
and  driver  to  bring  him  from  the  main  line 
station,  fifteen  miles  away,  to  Huntley.  He 
said  it  was  very  necessary  that  he  should  leave 
by  the  fast  train  at  six  o'clock  ;  to  do  this  he 
must  first  see  the  body  buried  and  then  make 
the  return  drive. 

My  father  was  summoned  at  once,  the 
stranger  was  given  the  plan  of  the  cemetery,  and 
he  immediately  chose  a  lot  and  begged  that  no 
time  should  be  lost.  My  father  promised  to 
make    all    possible    speed,    and,    securing    the 

necessary  tools  and  a 
man  to  help,  started 
at  once  for  the 
cemetery,  while  the 
stranger  said  he 
would  go  for  the 
team  and  driver 
and  join  them  at 
once.  He  looked 
worn  and  seemed 
very  nervous  and 
troubled,  but  that,  of 
course,  was  to  be 
expected. 

I  evaded  my  work 
and  followed  the 
men  out  to  tlie 
graveyard,  as  the 
country  people  called 
it.  It  lay  beyond 
the  outskirts  of  the 
\iliage  —  a  dreary, 
melancholy  -  looking 
place.  A  broken 
fence  and  a  number 
of  forlorn  -  looking 
pine  trees  added  to 
its  neglecteil  appear- 
ance. The  better- 
kept  graves  were  a 
mass  of  myrtle  and 
wild  pinks,  with  here 
and  there  a  brilliant 
poppy,  but  for  the 
rest  it  was  given  over 
to  weeds  and  decay. 


68 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


1  found  my  father  and 
his  helper  hard  at  work. 
']'he  waggon  containing 
the  coffin  was  drawn  u[) 
under  the  shade  of  the 
trees  just  outside  the 
fence.  The  husband  of 
the  dead  woman  sat  near 
in  gloomy  silence,  while 
the  driver  lay  asleep  on 
the  grass. 

The  law  provides  that 
a  grave  shall  be  six  feet 
long,  six  feet  deep,  and 
four  feet  wide.  It  was 
already  three  o'clock.  If 
the  stranger  was  to  arrive 
in  time  for  the  train  a 
good  hour  and  a  half 
must  be  allowed  for  the 
return  journey.  As  the 
time  went  by  the  stranger 
began  to  exhibit  great 
impatience  and  anxiety. 
He  suggested  that  a  little 
less  than  the  required  six  feet  would 
suffice,  and  offered  tjie  men  extra  pay  if 
they  would  hurry  the  work. 

At  last  the  grave  was  finished.  The 
gentleman  said  that  funeral  services  had 
already  been  held,  so  the  waggon  was  drawn  as 
near  as  possible  to  the  grave,  and  the  men  pre- 
pared to  lower  the  coffin  into  the  earth.  The 
coffin  bore  on  the  outside  a  doctor's  certificate 
stating  that  Mrs.  Mary  Barber  had  died  three 
days  previously  in  the  township  of  Barton,  of  con- 
sumption, and  that  he,  the  attending  physician, 
testified  to  the  same.  Here  followed  the  name 
of  the  physician,  Dr.  John  Gray,  and  the  date, 
August  1 6th,  1 886. 

So  far  all  was  well,  but  when  the  three  men 
tried  to  lift  the  box  out  of  the  waggon,  prepara- 
tory to  lowering  it  into  the  grave,  they  found 
that  they  were  unable  to  move  it.  My  father 
expressed  his  surprise  at  the  weight  of  the 
coffin,  whereupon  the  stranger  replied  that  the 
remains  were  enclosed  in  a  metallic  casket. 
Three  men  were  called  in  to  assist,  and  finally, 
after  great  effort,  the  coffin  was  placed  on  two 
stout  leather  strajjs  and  made  ready  to  lower 
into  the  pi. ice  prepared  for  it.  Almost  instantly, 
however,  the  straps  snapped  and  the  coffin  fell 
with  a  thud  into  the  grave.  The  men  were 
astonished  at  this,  for  the  strajjs  were  new  and 
capable  of  bearing  a  great  weight.  However, 
nothing  was  said,  the  grave  was  rapidly  filled  up, 
and  the  stranger  paid  his  bill  and  drove  away. 

As  soon  as  they  were  left  to  themselves  the 
men  began  to  talk  of  the  extraordinary  weight 


■''V 


THK   COFFIN    FELl,    WllH 

A   THUD    INTO   1  HE 

CRAVE." 


of  the  coffin,  and  later  on,  when  they  assembled 
at  the  store  for  their  usual  evening  gossip,  the 
talk  began  to  take  the  definite  form  of  suspicion. 

Meanwhile  the  men  who  had  been  present  at 
the  grave  had  related  the  circumstances  to  their 
wives,  and  the  result  was  that  what  the  men 
lacked  of  imagination  the  women  supplied.  By 
bedtime  everyone  in  the  village  and  even  some 
people  in  the  surrounding  country  were  in  full 
possession  of  all  the  fact.s,  which  each  one 
coloured  to  suit  his  or  her  imagination.  Never 
before  had  the  sleepy  village  known  such  e.x- 
citemenl.  vSpeculation  of  all  sorts  was  rife,  but 
by-and-by  it  got  down  to  the  one  ugly  word, 
"  Murder."  The  stranger  had  given  absolutely 
no  information  in  the  few  hours  he  had  been  in 
the  village.  He  had  spoken  to  no  one  save  at 
our  house,  and  there  he  had  merely  said  that 
his  wife  had  lived  in  the  village  as  a  child.  As 
he  had  not  given  her  maiden  name,  however, 
the  information  afforded  us  no  clue. 

Of  course,  no  definite  accusation  could  be 
made  until  it  was  certain  that  a  crime  had  been 
committed,  but  next  morning  a  meeting  was 
held,  and  the  three  principal  men  of  the  village, 
the  doctor,  the  minister,  and  my  father — who 
was  also  the  local  justice  of  the  peace  -  decided, 
with  the  full  consent  of  all  the  villagers,  to  have 
the  grave  opeiied.     It  was  noon  before  all  the 


'PHI-:    WILSON     llll.     IN-slRAXCi:     IRAl'l). 


rKj 


arr.iiV4cinciUs  were  comijlctcci,  l)ut  imiiicdiatuly 
alter  tlimicr  the  |)eoplc  began  to  hurry  toward 
llie  cemetery  by  twos  and  threes  and  ni  groii()s 
of  half  a  dozen.  In  dead  silence  they  stood 
around  the  grave,  and  as  the  men  threw  out  the 
eartii  and  brought  nearer  to  their  eyes  what 
each  one  believed  to  be  the  evidence  of  a  dread- 
ful crime,  even  their  breathing  became  hushed, 
and  they  stood  there  motionless  iincicr  the 
blue  sky,  with  the  hot 
sun  beating  down  upon 
them.  Not  a  sound  was 
to  be  heard  above  the 
noise  of  the  spades  save 
the  sighing  of  the  wind 
in  the  pine  trees  and  the 
clear  call  of  a  meadow- 
lark  from  the  adjoining 
field.  Presently  the 
shovels  in  the  hands  of 
the  two  men  at  work 
gave  out  a  scraping 
sound,  and  the  men  asked 
for  more  help  in  order  to 
raise  the  coffin.  This 
was  a  difficult  task,  but 
finally  it  was  accompli- 
shed and  the  casket  laid 
ready  to  open.  One  of 
the  villagers,  a  carpenter, 
stepped  forward,  tools  in 
hand.  His  tanned  face 
turned  a  shade  paler,  and 
the  hand  that  held  the 
chisel  trembled  a  little. 
The  people  ste[)ped  back 
and  then  surged  forward. 
The  coffin  opened  readily 
and  revealed  a  strong, 
handsome  inner  case  of 
metal. 

Slowly  the  screws  of 
this  shell  yielded,  and 
two  men  stepped  for- 
ward to  raise  the  lid. 
Those  who  stood  near 
enough  to  see  fell  back. 
Slowly  the  men  raised  the  lid 

'I'hey  found  inside  what  no  one  in  their 
wildest  imaginings  had  thought  oi—s/o>ii-s.' 
About  fifty  stones  of  varying  sizes,  each  one 
wrapped  in  paper  so  that  it  might  give  no  sound. 
One  by  one  the  people  came  up  and  looked 
wonderingly  in  and  turned  away.  The  real  truth 
of  the  matter  had  by  no  means  dawned  upon 
them  yet  and  th.e  mystery  seemed  deeper  than 
ever.  The  coffin  and  box  were  returned  to  the 
grave,  the  earth  was  filled  in,  and  the  people 
slowly  retraced  their  steps  to  their  homes. 


There  could  be  no  doubt,  however,  that 
something  was  wrong.  It  was  finally  decided  to 
telegraph  to  the  station  where  the  aisket  was 
|)ut  on  the  train,  but  all  the  information  gained 
was  tiiat  at  three  o'clock  in  the  morning  of  the 
preceding  day  two  men  had  driven  to  the  rail- 
way station  m  a  waggon  containing  the  casket. 
They  came,  they  said,  from  their  home  in 
the    country,     showed     the     official     in     (Ii.irge 


THi;V    FOLND    INSIDE    WH.M"    NO   ONt    MAD    IHOLGMT   OF — STONES! 


a  doctor's  certificate  properly  made  out, 
and  asked  for  the  usual  permit  to  take 
a  corpse  by  train.  There  had  been  no  reason 
for  refusing,  so  the  forms  were  filled  out, 
and  one  man,  taking  a  ticket,  accompanied  the 
remains,  while  the  other  drove  away  at  once. 
The  great  weight  of  the  cot'fin  had  been  noticed, 
but  the  two  men  had  helped  in  placing  it  on  the 
train  and  had  explained  that  it  contained 
a  metallic  shell.  Moreover,  they  Imd  arrived 
barely  in  time  to  place  the  body  on  the  train, 
and    there    had    been    no    time    for     (juestions. 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


Furtlu-r  telegraphing'  elicited  the  fact  that 
the  man  had  arrived  at  the  station  on  the 
main  line  the  preceding  evening  in  time  to 
catch  the  fast  tram,  had  bought  a  ticket  for 
Chicago,  and  had  departed.  The  police  in 
Milwaukee  were  communicated  with,  and  some 
weeks  later  we  heard  the  true  particulars  of  this 
remarkable  case. 

It  appeared  that  two  years  previously  a  man 
named  Wilson,  accompanied  by  his  wife  and 
her  brother,  a  Dr.  Clray,  had  rented  a  small 
farm  in  a  remote  part  of  Wisconsin.  They  did 
not  say  where  their  last  residence  had  been, 
merely  giving  out  that  they  came  from  the 
State  of  New  York.  Their  new  home  was  m  a 
thinly-settled  region,  their  nearest  neiglibour 
being  ten  miles  away,  and  nearly  all  the  farmers 
in  the  district  were  foreigners. 

Mr.  Wilson  gave  out  that  he  had  come  West 
and  taken  a  farm  on  account  of  his  wife's  ill- 
health.  She  was  never  seen  at  all,  and  her 
brother  made  no  attem[)t  to  {)ractise  his  pro- 
fession. 

At  that  time  there  was  but  one  life  insurance 
company  in  the  United  States  that  took  women 
as  a  risk,  and  then  only  at  a  very  high  premium. 
Shortly  after  their  arrival  in  Wisconsin  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Wilson  went  to  Milwaukee,  the  nearest 
large  city.  Here  Mrs.  \\'ilson  applied  for  an 
insurance  policy,  and  after  passing  a  very  rigid 
medical  examination  the  life  insurance  com- 
pany insured  her  life  in  her  husband's  favour 
for  the  sum  of  fifty  thousand  dollars,  which  —  at 
that  time,  at  least- — was  the  maximum  sum 
issued  on  a  female  life.  Returning  to  their 
lionie  the  cou[)le  kept  strictly  to  themselves. 

liy  degrees  Mr.  Wilson  gave  out  that  his 
wife's  health  was  failing,  and  as  her  brother  was 
a  physician  no  comment  was  excited  by  the 
fact  that  no  other  medical  man  was  called  in. 
Finally,  after  two  years'  residence,  the  end  came. 
Mr.  Wilson  drove  to  a  town  about  lliirly  miles 
away,  where  he  was  a  perfect  stranger,  and  there 
bought  a  metallic  coffin.  On  his  return  home 
he  went  to  his  nearest  neighbours,  who  were 
Swedes  and  had  but  a  slight  knowledge  of  tfie 
English  IcMiguage.  He  told  them  that  his  wife 
was  dead,  and  that  he  was  going  to  take  her  to 
her  birlh|)la(e,  where  the  funeral  services  would 
be  lield,  for  burial.  When  the  neighbours 
called  the  ( (jftin  was  already  closed,  Mr.  Wilson 


explaining  that  il  had  been  necessary  lo  tlu  so. 
Meanwhile,  some  days  before,  INIrs.  Wilson  had 
driven  during  the  night  to  a  railway  station 
thirty  miles  away  acro.ss  country.  Here  she  had 
taken  a  ticket  for  Chicago,  and  llien  presum- 
ably for  New  York,  the  nearest  seaport. 

The  husband  and  brother  locked  up  the  house 
—  which  contained  only  the  barest  necessaries  — 
and  started  in  the  niglu  for  tiie  nearest  railway 
station,  taking  the  "remains  "  with  their..  After 
seeing  the  husband  .safely  on  his  way  the  brother 
probably  took  the  next  train  to  New  York  and 
joined  his  sister. 

The  husband  after  leaving  our  village  went 
at  once  to  Chicago,  arriving  early  the  next 
morning.  He  went  direct  to  the  office  of  the 
insurance  company,  to  whom  he  had  already 
sent  word  of  his  wife's  death,  together  with  the 
certificate  of  her  brother.  Dr.  Gray.  Everything 
had  been  properly  done  ;  the  company  had  no 
reason  to  dispute  the  claim,  and  it  was  imme- 
diately paid  in  full,  and  by  noon  Wilson  was  on 
his  way  to  join  his  wife. 

They  were  never  caught.  So  much  time  had 
been  lost  before  the  real  facts  of  the  case  were 
discovered  that  they  were  able  to  make  good 
their  escape,  and  are  probably  enjoying  their  ill- 
gotten  gams  somewhere  to-day.  They  were 
certainly  clever  enough  to  have  decided  on  a 
safe  hiding  place  before  they  launched  their 
project. 

These  people's  plans  had  been  well  laid  and 
carefully  matured.  They  chose  a  residence 
remote  from  everyone,  made  no  acquaintances, 
and  finally  cho.se  as  a  burial-place  one  of  the 
most  isolated  and  forsaken  \illages  in  the 
United  States.  Had  they  not  overdone  the 
business  in  the  matter  of  weight  in  the  coffin, 
the  fraud  would  probably  never  have  been  dis- 
covered, the  insurance  company  would  not  know- 
that  they  had  been  duped  into  paying  hfty 
thousand  dollars  to  a  rascal,  and  little  Huntley 
would  have  missed  the  greatest  excitenieiil  that 
it  has  ever  known. 

Experience  is  a  great,  if  costly,  teacher,  aiul 
nowadays  the  life  insurance  companies  ha\e 
grown  very  wary.  A  fraud  of  this  kind  would  be 
painfully  unsuccessful  if  tried  to-day,  for  a  policy 
IS  seldom  or  never  paid  at  once,  ami  under  ikj 
circumstances  until  an  agent  of  the  company 
has  assured  himself  that  there  really  is  u  corpse. 


MONKEY. 


THE    BIOGRAPHY    OF 

A    FAMOUS    DOG. 


]\\    I )  will.  ( liiinoNs. 

Monkey  is  a  wire-haired  Siberian  terrier,  and  the  most  famous  and  valuable  dog  in  the  United  States. 
He  has  won  countless  prizes,  and  is  valued  at  fVve  thousand  dollars.  Monkey's  fame  is  so  great  that 
dog  thieves  from  all  parts  of  the  country  have  endeavoured  to  steal  him.  He  has  been  abducted 
no  fewer  than  ten  times,  and  even  now  three  professional  criminals  are  serving  long  sentences  in 
the  State  Penitentiary  of  Pennsylvania  on  his  account.  No  amount  of  money  would  purchase  Monkey, 
as  he  is  the  one  diversion  in  life  of  his  master's  invalid  mother.  This  biography  has  been  compiled 
with    the    assistance    of   the   dog's  owner,  Mr.  Willard    Lee  Hall,  of   Philadelphia. 


()XKI'v\'  lives  ill  Pliihulel|)liia  with 
-Mr.  Willnrd  Lee  Unll  aiul  his  invalid 
mother.  He  was  born  in  Russia,  at 
St.  Tetersburg.  There  were  eleven 
of  them  in  the  family,  and  they  ha<l 
a  very  happy  time  till  there  came  a  day  when 
they  were  all  boxed  up  like  real  monkeys  in  a 
cage,  and  were  put  into  a  train  for  the  first  time 
in  their  lives.  The  bumping  and  noise  of  the 
journey  worried  the  poor  little  puppies  so  tiiat 
two  of  them  sickened  and  died. 

Soon  the  younysters  were  carried  out  of  the 
train   and   placed   aboard  a   steamer,  and  here 
they  stayed  for  a  great  number  of  days.     They 
had  a  terrible  passage  across   to  the  States,  and 
all  of  them   were   very   ill.      Day    by   day   they 
grew  worse  and  worse,   and   one  after  another 
they    died.      When     the     ship     reached     her 
destination.    Mon- 
key   was     all     alone 
—  a    poor    little 
orphan    in  a   strange 
land. 

He  was  at  once 
borne  off  and  taken 
into  a  long  building, 
where  dogs  were  ex- 
posed for  sale.  To 
thisplacecamea  lotof 
people,  among  them 
Monkey's  present 
master.  He  had  a 
long  talk  with  the 
dealer,  and  finally 
purchased  the  dog 
and  took  him  away. 

But  Monkeys 
troubles  Were  not 
over  yet.  He  had 
some  more  train 
journeys  to  undergo, 
but  this  time  not 
quite  such  long 
ones..  When  these 
were    ov;.'r     he    was 

,  MONKl-V,      I  III:     MI'ST    VAI.IAIII.K 

taken      on      another  f-;,^,,,^ 


short  trip  "to  a  place  where  many  other  animals 
were  kept.  It  was  a  veterinary  hospital,  and 
Monkey  was  sent  there  to  be  acclimatized. 

And  then  it  became  awfully  hot,  unlike  any- 
thing the  little  dog  ever  dreamed  of  at  St. 
i'etersburg.  He  was  ill  for  a  long  period, 
and  spent  histime  between  that  awful  veterinary 
hospital  and  a  cellar  where  it  was  delightfully 
cool,  just  like  his  native  St.  Petersburg.  But  it 
was  so  dark  that  he  did  not  enjoy  it  half  as 
much  as  the  bright,  sunshiny  rompings  he  used 
to  have  in  Russia. 

His  master  used  to  come  every  couple  of 
days  and  ask  after  Monkey,  who  grew  slowh; 
better,  recovering  by  degrees  from  the  effects  of 
his  long  journcy.s  ;  and  at  last  his  master  came 
to  take  him  away  to  his  home  in  Philadelphia. 
Once  out  in  the  street  Monkey  ran  a  little. 

It  made  him  feel 
so  happy  that  he 
could  not  help  run- 
ning about,  till 
finally  his  master 
grew  almost  angry 
w  i  t  h  hi  m  ,  and 
shouteti  after  him, 
"  Here,  you  little 
Afonkey,  stoj)  your 
running  about,  or  I 
shall  have  to  carry 
you,  and  spoil  vnur 
fun." 

This  was  the  first 
time  Monkey  heanl 
his  name,  but  from 
that  day  to  this  he 
has  always  been 
.Monkey. 

His  master's 
mother,  a  gentle- 
voicetl  invaliil  lady, 
was  delighted  with 
the  little  dog,  and 
he  immediately  be- 
came her  pet.  ■ 

.\    lew    days   after 


pot.    IN      I  III-".     l'\III-I>    s  1  A  1  1 


72 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


.,       .1.1    ,     ,11      ii:^     ,  iill    i         ,11.    n.\S    A    \ALKr    WHO.Sli    SOLK    UUIV    IT 

Front  a  Photo. 

Monkey  arrived    home   he    had    his    first    taste 
of    the    grim    realities    of    life    in    a    big   city. 
One   of  the   servants    left   a    back   door   open 
and     Monkey   saw   out    into    the    street.       It 
looked  so  warm,  and   broad,  and  splendid,  so 
like  St.  Petersburg,  that  he  tliought  he  would  go 
out  and  take  a   walk.     So  oft  he  trotted.      He 
saw  the  houses   all  along  the  street,  and    the 
green  plot  of  ground  just  below  where  he  lived. 
Across  this  he   went,  meeting  a  lot  of  strange 
dogs,  but  none  of  them  at   all    like  him     his 
eyes    were   wider    apart — and, 
indeed,  his  master  often  joked 
about  this  peculiarity,    saying, 
"  Monkey  looks  like  a  Tartar.'' 
Tile     little     dog     kept     on 
through   the   square,  and  after 
a    wliile    a    ruffianly    looking 
man  began  to  follow  him.    He 
glanced  around  under  his  over- 
hanging  eyebrows   and,    when 
he  seemed  sure  that  the  dog 
was    alone,     picked     him    up. 
Monkey   was    so    young    then 
that  he  did  not  know  enough 
to   make    a   row,  but   he   has 
got    over    that    by    this    time, 
'i'he  man  took  his  pri/.e  a  long 
way,  into  a  part  of   the  town 
where   the    houses  were   small 
and  dirty-looking,  and  here  he 
hid  tile   dog   away   in    a    box, 
after  giving  him  a  ijcating  to 
keep  iiim  quiit. 

A    f e  w    (1  a y  s     afterwards         i., ,„„  „ ) 


]\ronkey's  master  came  and 
fetched  him  away,  after  paying 
over  a  substantial  sum  to  the 
"  finder  "  of  the  dog. 

Mrs.  Hall  fairly  cried  with 
joy  when  her  little  pet  came 
home,  and  she  hugged  him  so 
hard  that  it  hurt.  His  master 
brought  him  into  the  room 
where  she  was  sitting  in  her 
chair,  and  she  burst  out  at 
once : — 

"Oh,  darling  Monkey,  I 
am  so  delighted  to  see  you  ! 
You  are  the  dearest  thing  in' 
all  the  world,  and  my  life 
would  be  lonely  without  you." 
Monkey  led  the  other  dogs 
a  nice  life.  There  were  none 
of  them  just  like  him,  as  I 
have  said ;  and  when  they 
tried  to  stiffen  their  tails  and 
snort  at  him,  because  he  had 
a  rough  -  haired  coat  and 
his  eyes  were  so  far  apart,  he  merely 
"  waded  in,"  as  his  master  says,  and,  before 
they  knew  what  they  were  about,  the  plucky 
little  fellow,  although  he  only  weighs  eight  and 
a  half  pounds,  had  them  thrashed  soundly  and 
well. 

His  master  tries  to  stoi)  him  from  fighting, 
but  it  is  of  little  use  ;   it  is  in  his  blood. 

"  My  son,"  says  Mrs.  Hall,  "  that  little  rascal 
will  be  killed  fighting  with  such  big  dogs. 
\\'hv  do  vou  let  him  do  it  ?  " 


IS    TO    A  1  1  li.NU    TO    IIIM. 


MIlNKKV    Al     IJINNKI;    V\  ir  II     Ills    MASIi:i(. 


rhoto. 


THE  I]I()(;r.\1'II\'  oi"  a  famous  doc;. 


73 


And  tlicn  Monkey's  master  laughs  all  the 
more,  and  says  : — 

'*  Ix't  him  nL;ht,  mother  !  \\"hy,  one  mij4ht  as 
well  talk  about  letting  chain  lightning  go.  It 
doesn't  need  it,  does  it  ?  And  as  for  getting 
killed,  mother,  I  begin  to  think  he  is  like  sailors, 
drunkards,  and  babies  — Providence  surely  must 
have  iiim  in  its  special  care.  There  is  a  good 
deal  more  danger  of  the  big  dogs  you  talk  of 
bemg  killed.  He  fears  nolhmg  in  the  dog  line 
that  comes  along.  Vou  know  that  mastiff  down 
in  the  next  square  ?  ^^'ell,  he  defeated  him 
yesterday  in  the  shortest  time  I  ever  saw.  'I  o 
see  the  giant  bolting  at  record  speed  down  the 
street  ahead  of  Monkey 
was  worth  going  miles  for." 

Nevertheless,  Mrs.  Hall 
is  an.xious  about  her  pug- 
nacious little  pet,  for  he 
is  one  of  the  few  pleasures 
she  has  in  life. 

Monkey's  wardrobe  is 
extensive  and  varied  ;  and 
his  jewellery  and  decora- 
tions are  magnificent.  He 
has  any  number  of  little 
suits,  complete  with  hat, 
gloves,  and  watch-chain, 
which  he  wears  when 
being  photographed.  And 
no  grizzled  war  veteran 
wears  anything  like  the 
sixteen  silver  medals  that 
he  bears  at  these  times, 
or  the  two  magnificent 
jewelled  collars,  or  the 
diamond  anklet.  Monkey 
has  a  valet,  whose  sole 
duty  it  is  to  attend  upon 
him  and  minister  to  his 
wants ;    and    it  will    have 

to  be  a  very  cute   thief   who  succeeds   in   kid- 
napping him  again. 

Monkey  has  been  stolen  no  fewer  than  ten 
times !  It  was  not  till  after  he  had  been 
around,  being  exhibited  at  the  various  shows 
and  winning  prizes  and  medals  in  shoals,  that 
he  got  so  much  of  a  name  and  value  as  to  make 
it  worth  while  for  thieves  to  run  all  the  risks. 
Several  well  known  criminals  have  tried  their 
hands  at  stealing  Monkey,  and  it  is  gratifying  to 
know  that  three  are  still  "  doini:  time "  as  a 
result. 

Monkey  will  not  soon  forget  the  last  time  he 
was  stolen.      He  went  out  for  a  walk  with  the 


MAGNII-lCt.NT     UIAMONU   COI.l.Ak    WON     BY    MO.NKEV 
AT    THE    MADISOM    SQUARE    DOG   SHOW. 

From  a   Photo. 


servant,  who,  as  servants  will,  got  into  conver- 
.sation  with  a  policeman,  \\hilc  she  was  talking 
Monkey  roamed  about  with  another  dog  his 
own  size,  whose  acquaintance  he  had  made 
early  in  his  American  career. 

I'eople  were  passing  in  numbers.  Kor  the 
most  part  they  did  not  seem  to  take  much  notice 
of  Monkey,  even  though  he  had  on  his  best  suit 
that  day — his  I'ersian  lamb  coat  lined  with  red 
satin. 

I'resently  two  villainous  looking  men  came 
along,  and  one  of  them  recognised  Monkey  as 
the  dog  which  had  caused  such  a  furore  at  the 
Madison  Sfniarc  and  other  dog  shows,  where  he 

had      taken      upwards    of 
seventy  special  prizes. 

Poor  Monkey!  He  was 
soon  in  their  hands,  the 
servant  having  quite  for- 
gotten her  precious  charge 
(luring  her  flirtation  with 
the  stalwart  man  in  blue. 
The  little  dog  bit  at  his 
captors,  but  they  pounded 
him  until  he  lost  heart, 
and  then  took  him  away 
to  a  dark  cellar  in  a  low 
quarter  of  the  city  where 
they  had  their  abode. 

A  long  period  of  sus- 
pense followed,  while  the 
thieves  awaited  the  raising 
of  the  reward  offered  by 
Monkey's  distracted 
owner. 

Then  one  morning  a 
boy  came  to  the  cellar 
where  he  had  been  spend- 
ing the  dreary  days,  and 
took  him  by  a  cord  to  a 
certain  place  near  the 
square  where  Monkey  had  disappeared.  There 
he  was  handed  over  to  his  master.  When 
Mr.  Hall  picked  the  dog  up  and  saw  his  sore 
legs  and  mouth,  eloquent  of  ill-treatment,  he 
didn't  say  much,  but  took  him  straight  to  the 
veterinary  hospital  where  he  had  been  acclima- 
tized. In  a  few  days  Monkey  was  well  enough 
to  be  taken  home.  Mr.  Hall's  mother  was  so 
overcome  with  joy  that  she  could  only  cry,  say- 
ing to  her  son  :  — 

"Oh,   son,    I    am    so    happy    that   you    have 

brought  him  back  to  me  1     Vou  know " 

"Yes,  mother,  1  know,"  was  all  he  said. 
but  1  do  believe  both  of  them  were  crying. 


Vol.  xi.-10. 


m  \s.mMwm  -%  ^gp^ns? 


Being  an  account  of  the  adventures  of  three  sailors  who  undertook  to  smuggle  seditious  literature 
into  St.   Petersburg.     Two  mistakes  completely  wrecked  their  enterprise,  and  plunged   them  into  a 

most  remarkable  series  of  complications. 


f^l.^ 


II-LRE  were  tliree  of  us  in  the 
venture— Olaf  ami  Ivor  Petersen, 
two  Swedish  brothers,  strong  as 
hullocks,  cool  as  water-melons  at 
ordinary  times,  thorougli  devils  when 
aroused,  and  myself.  The  inception  of  the  affair 
took  place  simply  enough  in  all  conscience,  and, 
of  ail  towns  iiiuk-r  the  sun,  in  Shields  grimy, 
coal  dusty,  unromantic  South  Shields. 

Olaf  and  Ivor  whom  I  may  term  "the 
inseparables  "  -had  been  ashore  to  buy  soa[)  and 
matches  for  the  voyage.  Our  rusty  steam  tramp 
was  lying  in  Tyne  Dock  loading  "black 
diamonds"  f(jr  St.  Petersburg.  It  was  late,  and 
we  three  chums  were  turning  in,  with  the  fo'c's'le 
to  ourselves.  They  were  telling  me  of  a  peculiar- 
looking  nian  having  accosted  them  outside  the 
dock  gules. 

His  conversation  liad  slujwn  thai  he  knew 
them  to  be  part  of  the  I'ohin/cs  crew.  How 
and  where  his  information  had  been  gained  was 
a  mystery,  with  v  hich  we  did  not  much  concern 
ourselves.  Hut  what  did  interest  us  was  his 
offer  of  two  five-pound  notes  to  carry  a  parcel  to 


St.  Petersburg.  AVithout  declining  tlic  offer, 
they  had  [)ut  off  accepting  it  until  the  following 
day,  on  the  excuse  of  being  in  a  hurry  ;  in 
reality  to  ask  my  advice  on  the  matter,  because 
of  its  suspicious  appearance,  ^\'e  had  been 
shipmates  and  friends  during  six  months  in  the 
Mediterranean.  They  were  simple  fellows  ;  I 
had  "  book  learning,"  and  was  generally  referred 
to  when  the  subject  lay  outside  of  our  own 
narr(jw  lives. 

As  we  talked,  smoked,  and  [)repared  for  our 
biuiks,  a  black  figure  quietly  entered  the  fo'c's'le 
alleyway  and  advanced  into  the  dim  light  of  our 
sixpenny  paraffin  lamp.  An  eye-signal  and  a 
gesture  from  Olaf  told  me  that  the  strange  indi- 
\idual  they  had  mentioned  stood  before  us. 
Tall  and  thin,  his  pale,  un-l^iglish  face  over- 
to[)ping  a  shabby  frock-coat,  a  Ijowler  hat  half 
covering  his  rather  long  hair,  and  a  pair  of  thin 
white  hands  dangling  at  his  sides,  he  looked 
more  like  a  dock-side  missionary  than  anytliing 
else.  But  instantly  my  mind  flew  to  Anarchism 
and   Niiiilisiu,  and  all  liie  other  revolutionary 


"  isms." 


THF.     MAPPi:XIXC-,S    OF    A     \Tr;HT. 


75 


He  gave  me  a  quick,  searching  glance,  spoke  nf  wliat  we  were  doing,  especially  as  Olaf  and  I 
a  collective  '•  (lOod  evening''  in  a  gentle  tone  had  tasted  the  rigours  of  a  French  military 
with  a  foreign   accent,  then  turned  to  Olaf  and         prison   together.      Finally,  our   beds  were  fixed 


asked  if  they  had  decided  to 
accept  his  offer.  For  some 
seconds  there  was  an  awkward 
feeling  in  the  air,  but  an  ad- 
mission on  Ivor's  part  that  the 
matter  had  been  referred  to  me 
caused  the  stranger  to  turn  my 
way  at  once,  and  soon  we  were 
all  closely  discussing  the  whole 
subject.  The  parcel  was  to  be 
delivered  at  a  stated  address  in 
St.  Petersburg,  and  help  would 
be  given  to  get  there  from  the 
quay.  I  asked  its  contents,  and 
was  assured  that  it  consisted 
solely  of  printed  matter.  1  then 
said  that  before  taking  a  hand 
in  the  affair  I  should  want  to 
see  every  scrap  of  what  the 
parcel  contained. 

Infernal    machines,     bombs, 
and  the  like  were  in  my  mind. 
I     knew     something     of     the 
"  Friends  of  Russian  Freedom 
Society,"  and   had  not  been  in   Russian  ports, 
north    and    south,    for    nothing.       To    smuggle 
''  liberty  literature  "  into  the  country  I   was  by 
no  means  averse  ;  but  uncer- 
tain explosives,    meant  for  a 
fiendish  purpose,    were  quite 
another  matter.      However,  a 
third    five -pound    note    was 
offered  me  to  join  the  project ; 
we  were  to  see  the  whole  con- 
tents   of  the    package  before 
leaving  Tyne  Dock;  and  the 
work  was  agreed  to.     On  the 
following    evening    we    went 
ashore      for      the     literature, 
examined  it,  took  it  aboard, 
and  at   1.30  a.m.  the  Volanle 
was  en  route  for  the   Russian 
capital. 

After  passing  Copenhagen 
we  three  tackled  the  difficult 
subject  of  where  to  stow  the 
l)arnphlets  and  leaflets  whilst 
the  Russian  revenue  officers 
werernaking  their  usual  search. 
At  the  outset  we  had  decided 
that  the  undertaking  was  to 
be  kei)t  a  |)rofound  secret 
between  ourselves,  lest  some 
unfriendly  shipmate  should  get  us  into  trouble 
over  it.  Thoughts  of  horril^le  Russian  [)risons 
and  Siberia  made  us  feel  the  due  importance 


IVOR    rETERSU.V. 

From  a  Photo,  by  IF.  Audas,  Gr  iiisliy 


iii.AK  ri-:  11  1.-1   . 
J-roiii  a  Photo,  by  Carl  Patter/en 


upon  as  the  best  re[)Ositories  of 
the  dangerous  parcel.  Luckily 
we  three  formed  one  watch,  a 
fact  which  left  us  a'one  in  the 
fo'c's'le  during  our  watches 
below.  So  to  the  work  we  set, 
ri|)ped  open  the  seams  of  our 
"donkeys'  breakfasts"  (as  sea- 
men term  their  mattresses), 
])lared  the  literature  between 
the  straw,  and  sewed  up  the 
scams  again.  Ey  this  means 
the  Russian  preventive  men 
were  cheated  when  we  reached 
our  destination. 

Next  came  the  more  danger- 
ous and  delicate  task  of  con- 
veying our  consignment  ashore, 
for  the  reward  was  not  to  be 
paid  us  until  it  had  been  de- 
posited at  a  given  address.  We 
arrived  on  a  Friday  morning,  as 
expected.  The  landing  of  the 
literature  was  to  be  effected  on 
the  following  Sunday  evening,  and  the  house 
where  it  was  to  be  taken  reached  under  specific 
directions  given  us  by  our  mysterious  employer. 

When  our  fellow  A.B.'s  had 
gone  ashore  after  tea  on  the 
Sunday  we  fastened  the  fo'c's'le 
door,  undressed,  opened  our 
beds  once  more,  tied  the 
literature  —  printed,  fortu- 
nately, on  very  thin  paper — 
around  our  legs  and  bodies 
with  rope  -  yarns,  and  then 
dressed  again.  Thus  weighted, 
a  scramble  was  made  across 
an  intervening  vessels  deck, 
and  the  quay  gained  some 
two  hundred  yards  above  the 
Custom-house. 

Now  we  were  veritably  in 
the  eagle's  claws.  A  wrong 
move  and  we  should  be — 
Heaven  and  an  autocratic 
Ciovernment  alone  knew 
where.  But,  acting  on  the 
directions  given  us,  we  saun- 
tered, in  apparent  carelessness, 
towards  the  Custom-house,  in 
front  of  which  was  a  row  of 
droskies  plying  for  hire.  Here 
we  were  to  find  the  promised  help  of  a  vehicle 
to  take  us  to  our  destination. 

Keepitig  the   roadway  between  them  and  us, 


76 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


and  watching  them  out  of  the  corners  of  my 
eyes,  I  made  a  certain  sign  taught  us  by  the 
strange  man  in  Shields.  Not  one  of  the  drivers, 
however,  made  an  answering  sign.  This  put  us 
into  a  quandary.  We  paused,  apparently  to 
look  at  a  wheat  barge ;  in  reality  to  whisper 
our  surprise  and  misgivings  to  each  other.  We 
repeated  the  sign  without  result,  then  went  on 
and  returned  again,  when  Olaf  made  the  sign. 
To  our  great  joy  a  long-hatted  driver  made 
what  we  took  to  be  the 
return  signal.  Over  to  him 
we  walked,  and  were  greeted  >-i-»» 

with  :    "  Drosky,    Sjhonny —  \  1  / 

Nevska?"  W 


stop  and  have  a  glass  of  vodka  each,  because 
when  once  in  a  Russian  prison  we  should  never 
again  have  a  chance  of  tasting  the  national 
spirit.  At  this  grim  jest  Olaf  smiled,  and  I 
instinctively  felt  for  the  revolver  I  had  dropped 
into  my  pocket  when  leaving  the  Volante. 

Presently  the  drosky  pulled   up  with   a  jerk. 

The    sound    of  an.  imperative  voice   drew   our 

attention    sharply  to   a    uniformed  man  asking 

cjuestions  of  the  driver.     This  sent  all  sorts  of 

wild  ideas  flashing  through  our  minds.    But 

in   a  minute   we   were   off  again,   over   the 

bridge.    The  man,  a  police-officer,  had  been 

merely    taking    the    drosky's    and    driver's 

numbers,  and  noted  down  where   he  had 


"over  to  him  we  walked,  and  weue  ckeeted  with:  '  dkoskv,  sjhonnv— nevska? 


These  were  the  passwords  for  which  we  had 
been  told  to  listen. 

Still  more  highly  pleased,  I  replied  with  the 
other  password  :   "  Nevska,  dobra." 

He  nodded  his  head,  opened  the  docjr  of  the 
vehicle,  and  in  we  tumbled,  feeling  awkward  in 
our  thick  padding  of  revolutionary  literature. 
The  next  minute  we  were  being  driven  away 
towards  the  great  bridge  across  the  river,  beliind 
a  pair  of  shaggy,  long-tailed  animals  with 
jingling  bells  on  wooden  arches  o\er  their 
shoulders. 

It  was  early  in  the  liallic  season,  and  night 
was  setting  down  rather  chilly.  We  watched 
the  ship|)iiig  and  barges  on  one  side  as  tlie 
drosky  rattled  along,  and  llie  houses  on  the 
other  side,  wondering  what  kind  of  place  we 
Were  being  taken  to,  how  we  siiould  come  out 
of  the  affair,  and  what  strange  ha[)penings  we 
should  experience  before  returning  to  the 
Volanlc.      Ivor  jokingly  said  that  we  had  better 


picked  up  his  passengers  and  whither  he  was 
going.  This  information  is  always  exacted  of 
every  drosky  driver  who  crosses  the  bridge  after 
nightfall. 

Now  we  were  in  the  cit)'  i)roper,  the  [)art  left 
behind  being  but  a  suburb.  Soon  the  long, 
straight  Nevska  Trosjiect  stretched,  seemingly 
endless,  before  us.  Half  an  hour's  safety  was 
making  us  think  more  lightly  of  the  undertaking. 
The  rest  lay  with  the  man  on  the  box,  and  we 
began  to  think  of  the  fifteen  pounds  as  sure  and 
ourselves  happily  back  aboard  the  Volanie. 

Never  were  surmises  more  premature  or 
erroneous.  Onward  we  were  carried,  and  still 
onward,  till  it  seemed  to  us,  who  had  never 
before  been  more  tlian  a  quarter  of  a  mile  down 
the  street,  tliat  the  prin(i|)al  thoroughfare  of  the 
Russian  capital  must  stretch  across  the  whole 
kingdom.  Probably  this  was  owing  to  a  return- 
ing anxiety  to  be  rid  of  the  seditious  matter 
about  us. 


THE     HArrj.NIXGS    OF    A    NIGHT. 


77 


Presently,   however,   our  Jehu  slackened  the 
pace  of  his  annuals,  half  turned  on  the  box,  and 
said  sonKlliiiiL;  in   Russian.      \'crl)al  and  [)anto 
mimic    attcm|)ts     to     understand     each    other 
followed.     Then  said  he,  "  Vou  go  ship?  ' 

'I'his  baflled  us  more  than  ever.  Considering 
the  whole  circumstances  under  which  we  came 
to  be  in  his  vehicle,  we  could  make  neither  head 
nor  tail  of  his  meaning.  At  last,  putting  the 
(juestion  down  to  be  something  tjuite  beyond 
our  reasoning  powers,  we  waved  him  onward,  at 
the  same  time  trying  to  make  him  understand 
that  we  wished  to  "get  there  cjuickly."  At  that 
he  whipped  up  his  horses  again,  but  the  look  on 
his  face  as  lie  turned  back  to  them  left  us 
wondering. 


live  minutes 
as  one  man— a 
which    was    written 


triangl 


silent 


enough  to  fill  us  with  consternation 


Iter  wc  three  sat  bolt  upright 
e    of    staring    faces    on 
query,    weighty 
Had  2ve 
got  the  wrong  man  ? 

(jcnerally  law-abiding  fellows  as  we  were,  this 
idea  was  enough  to  turn  our  hair  into  bristles  on 
the  instant.  Our  three  heads  came  together, 
and  a  hurried  consultation  ensued.  We  com- 
pared thoughts  and  o[^inions,  and  then  Ivor 
suddenly  vented  his  favourite  exclamation, 
"  Tunder  I  "  meaning  thunder. 
"What's  up?"  I  asked. 


"  Time,"  said 
sign  at  seven 
o'clock.  We 
made  it  at  soon 
after  si.\  !  " 

It  was  true — 
only  too  true ! 
In  the  hurry  and 
excitement  of 
secreting  the 
prints  about  us 
and  getting  away 
with  them,  we 
had  forgotten 
that  important 
item  of  time. 

The  drosky 
man  was  pulled 
up  shar[)ly,  we 
alighted,  and  he 
camedown  tous. 
Further  efforts 
ivcre  matle  to 
understand  each 
other,  during 
which  wc  almost 
forgot  the  nature 
of  what  we  were 
trying  to  find 
out.      There   in 


ne. 


We  was  to   make  der 


the  main  street  of  St.  Petersburg  we  were  asking 
the  man  if  he  was  with  us  in  a  plot  against  the 
(Icjvcrnment  of  the  country  !  Then  Olaf  s[)oke 
to  him  in  Finnish,  which  he  understood,  and 
for  s(jme  minutes  they  talked  in  that  language. 
Meantime,  Ivor  and  I  stood  by  on  tenterhooks, 
lest  our  comrade  should,  in  getting  the  informa- 
tion we  needed,  give  the  man  an  inkling  of  that 
which  we  must  keep  secret  at  all  hazards. 

At  length  Olaf  turned  to  us  with  the  assurance 
of  his  having  divulged  nothing  of  our  purpose. 
Then  he  explained  iiow  the  man  had  accidentally 
made  something  like  the  sign  we  had  been 
instructed  to  look  for.  As  for  the  "  iJrosky, 
Sjhonny— Nevska?"  that  was  a  connnon  remark 
of  his  kind  to  foreign  seamen.  Right  enough, 
and,  alas  !  wrong  enough,  it  was  obvious  that 
we  had  made  a  serious  mistake  !  To  bewail  or 
further  discuss  this  was  useless.  The  busy  part 
of  the  city  was  left  far  behind  us.  ^^'here  we  had 
halted  the  Nevska,  Prospect  was  quiet  as  a 
village  street.  After  a  short  discussion  between 
ourselves  we  agreed  that  our  best  plan  was  to 
g'et  rid  of  the  drosky,  then  endeavour  to  find  our 
destination  on  foot,  as  we  were  apparently  in  its 
neiglibourhood. 

^\'ith  this  end  m  ^ 

view  Olaf  turned  to 
ask  the  driver  his 
fare  ;   but  that  fare 


"we   WEKIi   AT   (INXE    HEMMED   INTO  THE 
DROSKV<    ■illiK." 


78 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


was  never  paid.  As  Olaf  turned  there  was  a 
patter  of  ([uick  footsteps  close  l)y  us,  and  we  were 
at  once  hemmed  into  the  drosky's  side  l)y  half-a- 
dozen  long-coated,  big-booted  police.  "  Now  we 
aie  in  for  the  worst,"  was  the  thought  that  flashed 
through  our  minds.  Instinctively  we  pressed 
back  to  the  vehicle,  and  would  most  likely  have 
gone  leaping  over  it  in  an  endeavour  to  escape 
had  not  the  officer  in  charge  spoken  to  the 
driver  in  a  way  that  curiously  relieved  our  fears. 
Yet  the  lessening  in  our  anxiety  was  only 
momentary.  Not  more  than  three  remarks 
passed  between  them  ;  then  the  officer's  sharp 
eyes  swept  us  up  and  down.  We  so  guiltily 
remembered  our  padding  of  seditious  litera- 
ture that  a  better  light  would  probably  have 
betrayed  us.  Me  he  passed  over  as  unworthy 
of  prolonged  notice,  but  the  Slavonic  cast  of  my 
shipmates'  faces  cost  them  some  unpleasant 
attention  on  his  part.  From  them  he  turned  to 
the  driver  with  another  question.  Then  we  three 
were  roughly  pushed  aside — for  the  Russian 
police  never  waste  any  gentleness — and  the 
driver  was  marched  off,  his  drosky  also  being 
taken.  Us  they  left  standing  there  like,  three 
rural  simpletons,  gaping  after  them  in  amaze- 
ment and  unable  to  believe  our  senses,  until 
the  party  and  the  vehicle  were  lost  to  sight 
country  wards. 

Then  we  turned  to  gaze  at  each  other,  which 
action  was  quickly  interrupted  by  a  sharp 
mutual  turn  in  the  direction  of  the  city,  and 
off  we  went  at  the  fastest  swinging  pace  our 
padding  would  permit.  Even  then  it  was 
liardly  in  our  thoughts  that  we  had  been  inside 
the  Imperial  eagle's  cruel  claw.s,  to  use  a 
meta[)hor,  and  escaped  untouched.  What  the 
driver  had  been  arrested  for  was  of  no  concern 
to  us,  our  own  affairs  being  too  prominent  and 
pressing  to  allow  of  any  worry  or  even  conjec- 
ture about  another  person. 

Hut  presently  we  regained  some  of  our  lost 
self-possession,  and  began  to  cast  about  quietly 
for  the  street  containing  the  house  at  which 
we  were  to  deliver  those  prints.  So  far  this 
was  the  most  delicate  part  of  the  whole  venture. 
The  name  of  the  street  had  been  told  us,  also 
the  number  of  the  house  ;  but  of  the  latter  our 
strange  employer  had  given  us  such  a  minute 
and  telling  description  that  wc  could  not  forget 
it.  He  had  likewise  conveyed  to  us  some  idea 
as  to  how  far  dawn  the  Nevska  that  special 
street  was.  Witli  these  particulars  to  guide  us 
we  commenced  the  search. 

In  the  matter  of  lighting,  especially  in  side 
thoroughfares,  St.  Petersburg  was  then  far 
from  being  a  model  city.  To  us  the  half- 
Asiatic,  half-Iuiropcnn  buildings,  the  dress  of  the 
few  [)eoi)le  we  met,  and  general  tout  ense))ibk  of 


the  place  were  anything  but  assistant  factors. 
Ask  a  question  as  to  locality  of  even  the  most 
disreputable  creature  in  our  way  we  dare  not, 
lest  he  should  prove  to  be  a  (iovernment  s[)y 
and  cause  our  arrest.  Thus  we  sought  for  that 
wretched  house — strangers  in  a  strange  land, 
hampered  by  semi-darkness,  and  the  damping 
expectation  of  rough  hands  and  a  rougher 
prison.  Added  to  these  drawbacks  was  the 
awkwardness  of  our  padding  and  the  fact  that 
we  were  novices  at  the  work.  Facing  death  at 
the  masthead  in  a  gale  was  child's  play  com- 
pared to  this  horrible  prison-risking  affair  in  the 
ill -lit  side  streets  of  the  Muscovite  capital. 
Nor  did  success,  by  the  way,  inspire  hope  of 
better  things,  nor  that  confidence  in  action  need- 
ful for  the  final  gaining  of  our  goal.  To 
enumerate  the  incidental  accidents  would  make 
this  account  a  long  story. 

After  several  minor  mistakes  that  might  easily 
have  led  to  serious  complications,  we,  believing 
ourselves  at  last  in  the  right  street,  stood  before 
the  door  of  what  we  took  to  be  the  assigned 
depository  of  those  seditious  leaflets—  which  we 
would  ere  this  have  dropped  in  the  thorough- 
fares behind  us  had  we  dared  to,  and  if  we 
could  have  decided  to  forego  all  chances  of 
gaining  the  promised  reward.  The  house — an 
exact  description  or  location  of  which  it  would 
ht  unwise  and  unkind  to  give  here,  seeing  what 
would  happen  to  it  if  the  Russian  police  were 
to  get  hold  of  this  article — stood  slightly  back 
between  two  others,  and  three  doors  from  a 
corner  that  was  left  without  even  the  usual 
glimmering  apology  for  a  street  lamp. 

\\'e  were  in  the  middle  of  a  whispered  debate 
as  to  our  plan  of  procedure,  and  which  amongst 
us  should  be  the  unfortunate  one  to  knock  at 
the  door,  when  round  that  unlighted  corner 
came  a  small  party  of  natives,  whose  soft-leather 
high  boots  made  so  little  noise  on  the  earthen 
side-walk  that  they  were  in  collision  with  us 
almost  before  we  knew  of  their  presence.  To 
the  best  of  my  knowledge  there  were  five  of 
them,  for  we  never  learnt  the  exact  number,  so 
(juickly  did  the  affiiir  take  place. 

The  first  indication  of  their  coming  was  a 
hurried,  mingled,  soughing  thud  of  feet.  Then 
we  were  paitially  knocked  aside;  gruff  voices 
used  apparently  strong  words,  accompanietl  by 
violent  and  im[)atient  actions.  Naturally,  we 
thought  the  new  comers  a  posse  of  more  than 
usually  rough  police  come  to  arrest  us.  I  felt 
the  grazing  of  what  at  closer  quarters  would 
have  been  a  heavy  clbow-blow  on  my  ribs,  and 
half  turned  to  pay  it  back  when  between  me 
and  the  strikers  came  Ivor,  sent  sideways  by  the 
lumbering  shoulder  lurch  of  a  bearded  Russian. 
The  next  instant  this  one  of  the  brawlers     for 


iiii.   iiAi'ri:.\iX(is   ()!■    A   Mdiri'. 


79 


such  they  evidently  were— was  sent  reehng  our 
way  by  Olaf,  who  liail  received  some  lessons  in 
English  fisticuffs  and  had  strength  enougii  to 
make  a  bullock  reel.  Round  s[)un  Ivor,  calling 
to  me  in  ICnglish  to  get  out  of  the  way,  which 
injunction  I,  recollecting  some  of  his  former 
exploits  at  such  times,  quickly  obeyed.  Scarcely 
had  I  done  so,  by  a  ducking  movement,  when 
over  my  head  whirled  the  lower  part  of  that 
lurching  ^fuscovite's  anatomy.  \W  l)ending 
sideways  a  little, 
putting  his  left 
arm  to  the  fel- 
low's right  side, 


in  the  scene.  The  door  of  the  house  behind 
us  was  opened,  and  someone  came  out  and 
began  to  pluck  gently  at  my  sleeve  (1  being 
nearest  the  house),  saying,  "Come,  come."'  In 
the  partial  darkness  I  could  see  that  this  last- 
comer  was  dressed  in  native  clothes  ;  but  the 
English  word,  and  our  being  at  the  place  we  had 
looked  for,  reassured  me.  I  drew  Olaf's  atten- 
tion from  his  brother  to  this  new  departure. 
Wc  looked  at  the  man,  at  the  dark  open  door- 


r^ 


a\)l(    IIAU    TAKEN    TH 
AS   A 


US  right  arm  to  the  left 
side,  Ivor  had,  owing  to  his 
enormous  strength,  taken 
the  Russian  in  his  arms, 
and  was  using  him  as  a 
kind  of  battering-ram 
against  his  own  com- 
panions. Mow  those  top- 
boots  did  swing  about  the 
other  Russians'  heads,  whilst  tlie  wearer  of  them 
gurgled  out  exclamations  which  Ivor  under- 
stood as  little  as  he  heeded  I  How  the  assaulted 
ones  juiii{)ed,  stumbled,  and  rolled  out  of  the 
strong  man's  way,  venting  cries  of  pain  and  fear 
as  their  compatriot's  boots  struck  them  I  It 
was  as  though  a  fury  with  a  giant's  strength  had 
suddenly  been  let  loose  in  their  midst,  and 
witliin  the  space  of  a  few  minutes  all  our 
assailants,  save  the  captive,  were  fleeing  like  rats 
from  a  terrier. 

Meantiuje  another   change   was   taking   place 


way,  answered 
"All  right," 
and  went  to 
Ivor.  At  our 
news  he  put 
his  battered 
victim  on  his 
feet,  gave  him 
a  shove,  said 
"  Go  "  —  and 
the  other  went. 
Now,  (juietly 
laughing  at  the 
afidiir  and  at 
what  seemed 
to  be  a  happy 
end  to  our  dangerous  venture,  we  entered  the 
house  behind  the  man,  who  cjuickly  closed  and 
secured  the  door.  \\'e  were  led  along  a  semi 
dark  jiassage,  shown  into  a  dimly-lighted  room, 
motioned  to  sit  down,  and  left  there.  For  some 
minutes  we  talked  of  the  affair  outside  ;  then, 
ever  inquisitive  in  new  surroundings,  I  began  to 
turn  my  attention  to  the  room  and  its  contents. 
It  was  a  large  apartment  with  a  deep  recess  at 
the  farther  end.  I  had  made  the  tour  of  its  walls 
from  al)out  tlie  middle  of  the  opposite  side,  and 
was  slowly   penetrating  this  almost  totally  dark 


B    RU.SSIAN    IN    HIS   ARMS    AND   WAS    USING    HIM 
KIND   0|-    BATTKKIxe.-KAM." 


8o 


THE    WIDi:     WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


sitting 


recess,  when  a  voice  at  my  side  abruptly  said, 
with  a  foreign  accent,  "  Always  learn  what  you 
can,  but  never  forget  the  necessity  of  secrecy." 

I  started  back,  and  past  me  brushed  a  tall 
man  in  a  skull-cap  and  a  dressing-gown  that 
reached  to  his  heels.  Without  saying  more  or 
giving  me  a  glance,  he  advanced,  with  a 
shambling  gait,  to  where  Ivor  and  Olaf  were 
1  followed  him. 

The   stranger   paused,  looking   at    my    com- 
panions in   silence   and  at  such  undue  length 
that  we  three  began  to  feel  decidedly  ill  at  ease. 
His  manner  and  appearance  im- 
pressed us  in  a  strange  way.    By 
some  occult  means  we  felt  that 
we  were  in  the  presence  of  an 
uncommon   kind    of 
man.      At  last   he 
grunted   rather  than 
said  :  — 

"  Humph !  you  are 
from  England";  then 
turning  to  myself  he 
added,  "  Come  you 
with  me,"  and  re- 
sumed his  shuffling 
walk  towards  the 
door  by  which  we 
had  entered  the 
loom. 

"  But  cannot  we 
finish  this  business 
here  ?  "•  I  asked,  not 
liking  to  be  separated 
from  my  companions. 
He  made  no  answer 
nor  looked  back,  and 
somehow,  willy-nilly, 
I  moved  after  him. 
When  half  way  to  the  door  I  turned  to  Olaf  and 
Ivor  and  put  two  fingers  to  my  lijjs,  indicating 
lliat  I  would  whistle  should  I  need  them.  'I'hey 
nodded  their  comprehension  of  my  meaning, 
and  I  followed  my  guide  out  of  the  room  and 
along  a  continuation  of  the  pa.ssage.  When 
about  to  enter  another  apartment  I  saw  Olafs 
head  i)rotruding  from  the  doorway  we  had  left. 
He  was  watching  where  we  went,  and  nodded 
again  as  I  disappeared. 

This  second  room  was  well  lighted.  A  low 
log  fire  burnt  in  the  huge  grate,  before  which 
the  strange  man  halted,  lacing  me,  his  back  to 
the  fire.  I  noted  that  his  long  face  was  peculi- 
arly cadaverous.  Altogether  he  reminded  me 
of  the  alchemists  and  astrologers  of  whom  I 
had  read  in  (jld  romances. 

"  You  are  an  adventurous  trio,"  he  remarked. 
"Sit  down."  I  did  so  as  best  I  could,  my 
padding  considered.      He  added,    "They  have 


the  strength,  you  the  wits.     How  long  have  you 
been  in  partnership  ?  " 

"  About  a  year,"'  said  I. 

"Humph!  and  how  often  in  lli:it  time  liave 
you  played  fools  together?  ' 

"  Probably  more  times  than  we  have  sove- 
reigns," I  replied,  carelessly,  now  feeling  more 
at  my  ease  in  his  presence. 

"  Humph  I  and  that  is  why  you  undertook  to 
bring  me  an  explosive  into  a  country  wliere  the 
possession  of  it  means  years  in  a  vile  prison  ?  " 

"We  have  brought  no  explosive  into  Russia," 

was    my   quiet 
answer. 
"  What  ?  " 


VOL'   ANli    AN    AUVKMUNULS     IKKi,'    HE    KEMAUKED. 


"I  say  we  have  brought  no  explosive  into 
Russia." 

He  looked  steadily  at  me  for  some  seconds, 
then  drew  forth  a  paper  from  which  he  appeared 
to  read  :  "  Three  sailors,  two  powerful  Scandi- 
navians and  a  British  subject  with  the  brains 
of  the  i)arty,  will  arrive  on  Friday,  April  27th, 
and  come  to  you  on  the  following  Sunday  even- 
ing at  about  8.30."  The  time  was  then  a  (juarter 
to  nine  by  a  clock  on  the  mantelpiece  beliind 
him.  "  Now,"  he  concluded,  again  looking  at  nie 
from  under  his  shaggy  brows,  "  will  you  deny  that 
you  three  answer  this  information  to  the  letter  ?" 

"  No,  I  will  not,"  I   rejoined. 

"'I'hen  why  do  \ou  not  hand  over  the  parcel, 
instead  of  wasting  time  }  " 

"  I  tell  you  once  more  that  we  have  not 
brought  any  explosive  substance  or  li(iuid  into 
this  country  now  or  at  any  time,"  I  again 
reiterated,  this  time  with  some  force. 


Tni:    ii.\ri'i-NiNi;s  or   a   night. 


Si 


"  Do  you  know,"'  he  nskcd,  sternly,  "  that 
your  presence  Iiere,  esi)ecially  after  my  servant 
rescuing  you  Irom  that  fracas  at  my  door,  greatly 
endaugers  i)Olh  your  safely  and  mine  ?  " 

I  replied,  "My  wits  are  not  asleep,  and  I 
know  what  country  we  are  in.  I,et  us  get  back 
to  the  subject  — our  errand." 

"Give  up  the  explosive,"  he  angrily  inter- 
rupted,    "or    I     will "      lie    was     mo\ing 

towards  a  bell-pull  about  six  feet  away  when  I 
stopped  both  words  and  action  by  bringing  my 
revolver  quickly  into  sight  and  saying:  — 

"Touch  that  bell-rope  and  I'll  blow  your 
brains  out." 

"  What  ?  "  he  cried. 

I  was  about  to  repeat  my  threat  when  there 
came  three  heavy  knocks  on  the  street  door, 
followed  by  a  loud,  stern  command  in  Russian. 
Instantly  that  strange  man  stood  rigidly  upright, 
fear  making  his  unpleasant  face  appear  truly 
repellent. 

Scarcely  had  the  echoes  of  those  knocks 
ceased  to  resound  through  the  house,  when  in 
rushed  the  person  who  had  come  to  us  in  the 
street.  "The  police!"  said  he  in  English, 
horror  in  his  tones.      He  was  visibly  shaking. 

\\ithout  a  moment's  further  thought  my 
fmgers  went  to  my  mouth.  I  gently  whistled 
the  signal  well  known  to  Olaf  and  Ivor,  who 
were  in  the  room  with  us  almost  before  I  had 
finished.  Altogether  disregarding  the  cadaverous 
individual  and  his  servants,  I  rattled  off  explana- 
tions. More  imperative  knocks  fell  on  the  front 
door,  and  we  three  made  hastily  for  the  back  of 
the  house.  W'e  found  ourselves  in  an  enclosure 
surrounded  by  a  high  wall.  Back  we  scurried, 
got  a  chair  and  a  stool,  secured  the  door  form- 
ing our  exit,  and  returned  to  the  wall.  \\'ilh 
the  stool  on  the  chair,  Olaf  on  the  top  of  them, 
and  Ivor  steadying  the  whole,  I  —  being 
considerably  smaller  than  they  were — climbed 
up  Olafs  back  and  gained  the  summit  of  the 
wall.  Beyond  the  barrier  was  darkness — 
pitch  darkness,  uncertainty,  but  possible  escape. 
I  whispered  this  to  them. 

"  Get  up,"  was  the  sole  reply. 

A  minute  later  we  were  all  perched  side  by 
side  on  the  wall  — three  unlucky  black  crows 
gazing  doubtfully  into  a  dark  abyss.  The  im- 
provised ladder  had  been  kicked  away  to  avoid 
a  clue.  Olaf  and  Ivor  lay  across  the  wall-top  - 
no  easy  feat  in  their  seditious  padding — with 
their  heads  on  the  side  we  wished  to  go.  They 
each  took  one  of  my  hands  and  lowered  me 


gently  down  till  I  felt  solid  earth.  An  instant's 
survey  of  a  couple  of  yards  around  where  I 
stood,  a  reassuring  "  Come  along  I  "  and  they 
were  by  my  side.  Awhile  we  listened  anxiously 
after  the  thud  occasioned  by  their  drop  from 
the  wall.  But  for  the  rattling  of  some  distant 
cart  or  drosky  all  was  still  as  the  grave. 

We  now  began  the  delicate  business  of  as- 
certaining into  what  kind  of  place  mischance 
had  made  us  venture.  One  great  help  in  this 
came  by  our  eyes  becoming  accustomed  to  the 
darknes.s.  Foot  by  foot,  yard  by  yard,  we  pro^ 
gressed  in  our  reconnaissance,  yet  making  all 
possible  haste.  At  last  we  made  sure  of  being 
in  some  sort  of  private  grounds,  divided  from  a 
street  by  another  wall.  Behind  us  we  could 
see  the  house  we  had  left,  now  with  lights  in  all 
its  formerly  dark  windows. 

In  the  shadow  of  the  second  wall  a  halt  was 
made,  owing  to  Ivor  whispering  his  intention  to 
rid  himself  there  and  then  of  the  incriminating 
])rints.  That  idea  was  seized  on  at  once  by 
Okifand  myself.  Quick  as  thought  almost  off 
came  our  outer  clothes,  the  rope-yarns  were  cut, 
the  prints  dropped  away  from  us,  and  again  we 
stood  dressed  ready  for  action.  \\t  decided  to 
find  the  most  ill-lighted  portion  of  the  street 
without  and  then  senile  the  wall  and  be  off. 
At  that  moment  Olaf  announced  his  intention 
of  ha\ing  some  satisfaction  out  of  the  affair  by 
scattering  the  leaflets,  so  far  as  he  could  with 
safety,  on  our  way  back  to  the  lo/a/i/e.  In  this 
madcap  freak  we  joined  him.  Our  pockets 
were  stuffed  with  the  thin  sheets  of  paper,  the 
street  was  safely  gained,  and  we  hurried  from 
the  place,  without  too  much  show  of  haste.  In 
every  dark  corner  we  passed  a  few  leaflets  were 
surreptitiously  dropped,  until  there  was  not  one 
left  on  us.  About  twenty  minutes  after  scaling 
the  second  wall  we  were  suddenly  confronted  at 
a  crossing  by  the  name  of  the  street  for  which  we 
had  sought  so  diligently.  Then  came  the  dawn- 
ing of  truth— we  had  been  in  the  wrong  house  ! 

It  was  too  late  to  bemoan  the  mistake— the 
second  of  that  eventful  night.  ^^'e  arrived 
aboard  safely  at  eleven  o'clock,  and  had  the 
pleasure  of  hearing  on  the  following  day  that  the 
city  was  in  a  furore  owing  to  the  discovery  of 
seditious  prints  strewn  in  the  streets  of  a  certain 
quarter.  That  was  our  sole  reward  for  risking 
the  horrors  of  a  Russian  prison.  We  did  not 
dare  again  set  foot  ashore  during  that  stay  in 
St.  Petersburg.  Nor  did  we  ever  see  or  hear 
again  of  the  strange  man  in  Shields. 


Vol.  xl  -  11. 


A   West  African    Mutiny. 

Bv  Francis  W.  H.  Durrant. 

An    account,    by    an    eye-witness,    of    an    exciting    episode   of    which    very    little   was    heard    in    this 

country— the    mutiny  of  the    West    African    Regiment     at     Cape    Coast     Castle    in  March,    1901.      Mr. 

Durrant    describes    the    stirring  events  of  the  week,    during   which  the   mutineers  were  masters  of  the 

situation,   and    the   final  coup  by  which   the    regiment  was  disarmed   and   all    danger  averted. 


APE  COAST  CASTLE,  where  1 
was  staying  at  the  time  the  following 
events  happened,  is  the  largest  town 
in  the  Cold  Coast  Colony,  although 
it  is  not  now  the  (jovernor's  head- 
quarters.      It     takes     its 

name   from    the    large, 

rambling  Dutch  fort  which 

is    built   at   the  end  of  a 

rocky  promontory  on    the 

sea     front,     originally    in- 
tended as  a  defence  from 

attacks  both  by  land  and 

by    sea,     but     now     only 

used     as    Covernment 

offices,  court-house,  prison, 

barracks,  etc.,  although  at 

the    time    in    question     it 

had    to    be    put    into    a 

state  of   defence  to  meet 

a  land  attack.     'The  town 

has    an    estimated    black 

population      of      between 

sixty    and    seventy    thou- 
sand,    chiefly     I'antis,     a 

very   fine    race   physically, 

but  arrant  cowards,  while 

at  the  time  of  the  mutiny 

there   were   only   about    a 

hundred       Europeans, 

chiefly  luiglishmen,  in  the 

place.     'The  town  is  almost 

entirely  built  of  mud,  and 

nearly  all  the  houses  have 

flat    roofs    made    of     the 

same  material. 

On       Monday,      March 

25th,    1 90 1,    I    was   being 

shown    over    the    fort, 

wliich    is  a    most  interest- 
ing  old    building,    by   the 

offi(  er  in  command  of  the 

garrison,     which,     by    the 

way,    was   then    practically    non-existent,    there 

being    only    about    seventy   soldiers    left,    the 

remainder   having   gone  to  join    an   expedition 
'n    the    (iambiu   'Territory.       'The    officer   wliu 


TUB   AUTIIUK,    MK.    FKANCIS  \V.   H.   UURKANT. 

I'roiti  a  Photo. 


showed  me  around  told  me  there  were 
rumours  in  the  air  that  a  strong  body  of 
fiausa  troops  were  daily  expected  to  arrive  in 
Cape  Coast  from  Kumasi,  bringing  prisoners  of 
war  from  the  late  Ashanti  campaign,  but  that 

it  was  also  said  there  had 
been  recent  disturbances 
in  Kumasi.  No  definite 
information  could  be 
obtained,  however,  as  the 
telegraph  line  to  Kumasi 
was,  as  usual,  broken 
down. 

No  war  prisoners  arrived 
that  day,  but  it  was 
noticed  in  the  town  that 
the  natives  were  in  a 
very  excited  state,  and 
that  they  had  evidently 
got  hold  of  some  informa- 
tion which  they  had  not 
imparted  to  the  Euro- 
peans. 

On  the  following  morn- 
ing ('Tuesday,  March 
26tli)  about  two  hundred 
soldiers  came  into  the 
town.  Everyone  thought 
they  were  Hausas  at  first, 
but  there  were  no  prisoners 
with  them,  and  it  was 
soon  discovered  there 
were  no  white  oflicers, 
and  that  they  were  not 
TIausas,  but  men  of  the 
\\'est  African  Regiment. 

During  the  day  still 
more  of  them  came  in, 
and  by  nightfall  there 
were  over  five  hundred 
of  them  in  the  town. 
It  then  became  apparent 
that  the  regiment  was  in 
open  nuiliny,  although  for  the  present  they 
were  very  (jiiiet,  probably  owing  to  fatigue, 
as  they  had  marched  down  from  Kumasi, 
a   hundred  and  forty  miles  away,  in  a  remark- 


A   \Vi:s|-    AIRICAX    Murixv. 


83 


ably  sliurt  lime.  Il  uIm)  liaiisijircd  tli;it 
before  leaving  Kumasi  the  men  had  looted 
the  nmg.i/.ine  there,  so  that  besides  their  arms, 
consisting  of  carbine  and  bayonet,  each  nian 
had  about  a  hundred  rounds  of  ball  cartridge 
at  his  command. 

That  night  the  mutineers  took  i)ossession  of 
the  Covernment  schools,  the  best  buildings  in 
the  town,  where  they  quartered  themselves.  This 
reiiiment  is  recruited  from  the  Colony  of  Sierra 
Leone,  chiefly  from  two  tribes  known  as  the 
Mendis  and  Tiniinis,  both  of  which  are  in  a 
very  savage  state,  and  have  the  reputation  of 
being  amongst  the  bravest,  and  at  the  same 
time  the   most   treacherous   and   cruel,   of  the 


nigger  race. 


On  the  following  day  a  few  more  stragglers 
came  in,  and  the  whole  of  them  spent  the  day 
in  parading  the  town,  and  as  the  day  wore  on 
became  very  rowdy  and  insolent  to  the  white 
people,  firing  off  their  carbines  all  over  the  town. 

I  and  two  friends  ha[)pened  to  have  an  engage- 
ment to  dine  that  evening  with  the  fellows  at 
the  bank,  which  is  situated  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  road  to  the  Government  schools. 
On  our  way  there  we  were  considerably  inter- 
fered with  and  molested  by  the  mutineers,  and 
when  we  arrived  at  the  house  we  found  the  two 
I'anti  policemen,  who  are  sent  every  night  to 
guard  the  bank,  in  a  state  of  absolute  terror. 
Their  carbines  were  empty  and  they  had  no 
ammunition  or  bayonets.  'J'heir  teeth  were 
chattering  in  a  way  that  only  negroes'  teeth  can 
chatter. 

Wc,  of  course,  incjuired  the  cause  of  this 
fright,  and  they  told  us  that  the  mutineers  had 
given  them  ten  minutes  to  clear  out  or  they 
would  be  shot.  As  the  mutineers  were  working 
themselves  up  into  a  most  excited  state  and  still 
firing  off  their  carbines  there  seemed  to  be 
a  reasonable  ])robability  of  the  threat  being 
carried  out.  I'hinking  that  discretion  was  the 
better  part  of  valour,  therefore,  the  {)olicemen 
threw  down  their  useless  arms  and  bolted  along 
the  road  towards  I'vlmina. 

On  going  into  the  bank  we  found  the  three 
Englishmen  considerably  worried  about  the 
state  of  affairs,  as  it  seemed  that  all  through  the 
day  the  mutineers  had  been  firing  off  carbines 
outside  the  bank  and  working  themselves  up. 
The  officials  advised  us  not  to  stop,  but  to  get 
back  to  our  quarters  before  dark,  as  we  should 
be  obliged  to  pass  the  mutineers  on  our  way 
home,  there  being  only  one  road  leading  to  the 
part  of  the  town  we  were  staying  in. 

On  leaving  the  bank  we  were  immediately  sur- 
rounded by  about  two  hundred  armed  mutineers, 
who  refused  to  let  us  pass,  saying  they  would 
allow  no  white  uian  to  go  down  the  road.     'Ihe 


silualioii,  having  regard  to  the  extremely  excited 
_ state  the  men  were  in,  was,  to  say  the  least  of 
it,  decidedly  unpleasant,  and  we  then  realized 
for  the  first  time  that  we  had  all  three  left  our 
revolvers  at  home.  Not  that  they  would  have 
been  much  use  against  such  numbers,  but  every 
iMiglishman  likes  to  sell  his  life  dearly — as 
dearly  as  he  can. 

For  some  time — ten  minutes,  I  suppose — it 
was  very  trying,  and  it  was  only  by  treating  the 
rowdy  crew  with  disdain  and  showing  them  we 
had  no  fear — which  was  somewhat  difficult,  as 
we  certainly  had — that  we  were  at  last  allowed 
to  i)roceed,  the  mutineers  contenting  themselves 
by  hurlirig  lumps  of  wood,  pieces  of  iron,  bricks, 
etc.,  obtained  from  a  tumbledown  house  just 
opposite.  We  were  all  hit  several  times  and 
more  or  less  bruised  and  cut ;  but,  as  we  had 
sun -helmets  on,  our  heads  were  fairly  well 
protected. 

On  this  trying  journey  home  we  had  to  pass 
the  fort,  and  went  in  to  inform  the  officer  in 
charge  what  had  occurred.  We  then  found 
that,  as  a  measure  of  precaution,  all  the  Euro- 
peans had  been  invited  to  come  into  the  fort,  as 
the  Ciovernor  and  some  officers  of  the  mutinous 
regiment,  who  had  just  arrived  from  Kumasi, 
took  a  very  serious  view  of  the  matter.  As  we 
were  staying  in  the  native  quarter  of  the  town, 
about  half  a  mile  from  any  other  Euiopeans, 
we  thought  it  best  to  go  into  the  fort  and  stop 
there. 

On  the  following  morning  (Thursday)  all 
business  in  the  town  was  suspended,  and, 
under  the  superintendence  of  Major  Charrier, 
the  second  in  command  of  the  mutinous 
regiment,  who  had  been  temporarily  appointed 
to  command  the  fort,  everyone  worked  hard 
in  barricading  the  place  and  preparing  for  its 
defence.  There  were  then  in  the  fort  about 
twenty  white  men,  including  about  ten  officers, 
and  between  sixty  and  seventy  loyal  black 
troops,  consisting  partly  of  Hausas  and  partly 
of  some  men  of  the  Central  African  Regi- 
ment— all  of  them  splendid  fellows.  Arms 
and  ammunition  were  that  morning  served  out 
to  everyone,  as  it  had  been  arranged  that 
the  Governor  should  palaver  with  the  mutineers 
outside  the  fort  and  endeavour  to  get  them  to 
surrender,  and  if  not  possible  by  peaceable 
means  to  do  so  by  force  ;  but  on  reckoning  up 
it  was  found  that  there  were  only  about  eighty 
white  men  in  the  town,  so  with  the  black  troops 
there  were  not  more  than  about  a  hundred 
and  forty  of  us  against  nearly  si.\  hundred  well- 
armed  and  courageous  men,  and,  of  course,  the 
native  population  of  the  town,  numbering 
upwards  of  sixty  thousand,  who  had  by  this 
time  sided  with  the  mutineers,  as  they  saw  they 


84 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


WE    KEALIiilCU    l-OK    Tllli    FIKST     llMt    TllAr    Wli    IIAU,    ALL     lllKLl;,    LKIT    OLU    KliVOl.VrikS    AT    IIO.ML'. 


were  temporarily  masters  of  the  situation.  The 
idea  of  coercion  had,  therefore,  to  be  aban 
doned,  and  definite  instructions  were  then 
issued  by  the  Governor  that  we  were  to  act 
entirely  on  the  defensive  and  endeavour  to  over- 
come the  mutineers  by  peaceable  means.  With 
this  object  in  view  he  addressed  the  men  and 
endeavoured  to  point  out  to  them  their  foolish- 
ness, but  without  avail.  It  was  at  this  palaver 
that  we  discovered  who  was  the  chief  ring- 
leader— a  man  named  Mandingo,  who  had 
been  a  sergeant,  but  for  misconduct  had  been 
reduced  to  the  ranks.  This  [)alaver  was 
absolutely  abortive,  and  various  other  sugges- 
tions for  disarming  were  made,  but  all  put  aside 
as  useless. 

A  refjuest  had  by  this  time  been  made  by 
telegraph  for  a  gunboat,  but  it  was  known  that 
it  could  not  possibly  reach  us  for  some  days. 
During    the  day   three    ships  belonging   to  the 


Elder,  Dempster  line  arrived  in  the  roads  and 
began  discharging  cargo,  etc.  ;  but  during  the 
afternoon  the  mutineers,  apparently  thinking  we 
should  get  help  from  them— as  we  no  doubt 
could  have  done — collected  all  the  surf-boat 
paddles  and  oars  in  the  town,  and  as  the  boats 
came  in  laden  with  goods  cai)si/.ed  the  boats 
and  let  them  drift  away,  taking  the  paddles  up 
to  the  Government  schools,  where  they  piled 
them  in  a  heap  ready  to  set  on  fire  if  we 
attempted  to  regain  possession  of  them.  So 
there  we  were  with,  I  suppose,  two  hundred 
Englishmen  willing  to  help  us  within  a  mile 
of  the  town,  but  absolutely  unable  to  come 
ashore,  there  being  only  the  ships'  own  boats, 
which  were  quite  useljss  without  someone  to 
steer  them  through  the  surf. 

There  was  only  one  other  exciting  incident 
during  the  remainder  of  thai  tlay.  I  managed 
to  slip  out  of  tlie  fort  uiiiioiiccd,  and  was  taking 


A    WEST    AFRICAN     MLllXY. 


85 


a  walk  along  the  road  in  the  direction  of  tiie 
bank  wlicn  I  came  upon  an  excited  group  of 
mutineers,  and  on  coming  close  to  them  dis- 
covered that  they  had  just  killed  one  of  their 
own  men  witli  their  bayonets  — for  what  reason  I 
don't  know,  except  that  perhaps  he  may  have 
disagreed  with  their  views.  I  then  concluded  it 
was  not  safe  for  me  to  be  out  and  returned  to 
the  fort,  and  from  that  time  until  the  affair  was 
over  no  one,  with  the  exception  of  one  or  two 


iorthcoming.  Mandingo  (the  ringleader)  went 
up  to  the  ( Governor,  shook  his  fist  in  his  face, 
swore  at  iiim,  and  then,  drawing  a  sword,  he 
flourished  it  m  the  Governor's  face.  While  this 
was  going  on  all  the  men  in  the  fort  were  in 
position  along  the  battlements,  with  their  car- 
bines loaded  in  case  any  shots  were  fired  by  the 
mutineers. 

This  palaver  produced  no  good  result,  and  a 
further  one  was  held  in  the  afternoon,  when  the 


DKAWING    HIS    SWOKI),    HE    FLOURISHED    IT   IN    THE   GOVERNORS    FACE. 


officers  belonging  to  the  mutinous  regiment,  was 
allowed  to  leave  or  enter  the  fort. 

On  the  next  day  (Friday,  March  29th)  the 
("lOvernor  came  down  to  the  fort  from  the 
hospital,  where  he  was  staying,  and  another 
palaver  took  place  early  in  the  morning  with  the 
mutineers,  or  rather,  I  should  say,  with  their 
ringleader.  Those  who  were  in  and  around  the 
fort  then  saw  what  is  probably  one  of  the  greatest 
insults  ever  offered  to  the  Governor  of  a  British 
Colony    without    unmediate    [)unishment    being 


same  scenes  took  place,  the  mutineers  being 
there  in  force  with  loaded  carbines,  and  they 
practically  dictated  their  own  terms,  which  the 
Governor,  to  end  the  matter  as  he  thought, 
accepted,  viz.,  to  pay  every  man  five  pounds  in 
cash,  in  exchange  for  which  they  were  to  lay 
down  their  arms.  As  a  matter  of  fact,  however, 
tlicre  was  not  sufficient  money  in  the  place  to 
pay  them  at  this  rate.  It  was  arranged  that  the 
men  were  to  parade  in  two  hours'  time  to 
receive  this  money,  and  it  was  hoped  that  the 


86 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


anxious  time  wc  had  all  cNpciienccd  was  at  an 
end,  and  we  were  rather  congratulating  ourselves 
on  having  come  out  of  the  business  so  well. 

We  were  soon  disabused  of  that  idea,  how- 
ever. Instead  of  allowing  us  to  come  out  of  the 
fort,  the  mutineers  kept  a  stronger  guard  than 
before  outside  the  gate,  and  we  were  still 
prisoners.  \'ery  soon  a  message  came  down  to 
the  Covernor  to  the  effect  that  they  were  not 
going  to  accept  the  terms  they  had  previously 
agreed  to,  but  that  they  wanted  more  money 
and  meant  to  kill  all  the  white  men  in  the 
town  and  capture  the  fort,  where,  they  said, 
they  knew  there  was  plenty  of  gold. 


we  all  expected  that  the  time  to  fighl  liad 
arrived.  On  arriving  at  the  fort  the  mutineers 
halted  outside  the  main  gate  for  some  time,  and 
then  split  up  into  sukiU  groups  and  surrounded 
us,  and  so  remained  all  night.  Why  they  did 
not  attack  cannot  be  explained,  and  it  is  only 
surmised  that  they  were  under  the  impression 
that  we  had  more  defenders  than  was  really  the 
case.  Had  they  attacked  we  could  not  pos- 
sibly have  kept  them  out ;  in  fact,  the  whole 
night  long-we  expected  them  in  every  minute, 
and  only  those  who  have  gone  through  a  similar 
experience  can  imagine  the  strain  and  anxiety 
of    such    a    vigil,    especially    in    an    enervating 


I  III-:    Kolir,    CAl'li  COAST   CASTLE,    l.N    WHICH     1  Mli   AU  IHOK    AND    .MOST   OF     Till-;    UllITE    IN  MAUI  1  ANTS    TOOK    MilL(,li 

J-'rom  a\  duki.ng  the  mutinv.  [Photo. 


Things  were  now,  therefore,  more  serious  than 
before,  and  we  soon  after  got  word  that  at  nine 
o'clock  in  the  morning  the  bank  had  been 
attacked  and  captured  by  the  mutineers.  'I'he 
three  white  men  comprising  the  staff  were  held 
as  prisoners. 

Extra  precautions  were  now  tak(Mi  for  the 
safety  of  the  fort,  as  a  night  attack  was  expected. 
I'^ndeavours  were  made  to  get  at  the  remainder 
of  the  white  population  who  were  still  outside 
the  fort  and  practically  at  the  meicy  of  the 
mutineers,  but  wilh(nil  success.  I'y  this  lime 
we  had  succeeded  in  fixing  up  in  a  favourable 
position  a  Maxim  gun,  and  every  man  stood 
to  arms  ready  lox  any  emergency. 

It  was  a  very  d.irk  night,  although  clear,  and 
about  mitlnight  we  could  discern  the  mutineers 
creeping  softly   down   the   road  lijwards  us,  and 


climate  like  the  West  Coast  of  Africa,  where  the 
white  man  is  always  more  or  less  half  dead. 

During  the  night  it  was  decided,  in  the  event 
of  no  attack  being  made  by  the  mutineers,  that 
the  affair  must  be  ended  in  the  morning  one 
way  or  the  other,  as  we  were  prisoners  with 
nothing  to  eat  and  the  rest  of  the  white  men 
in  the  town  were  at  the  mercy  of  these  men. 
Of  course,  had  a  massacre  taken  place  in  Cape 
Coast  Castle  it  would  probably  have  spread  all 
over  the  Colony.  There  are  very  few  people  in 
this  country  who  know  or  realize  by  what 
slender  threads  Britain  holds  some  of  her 
African  possessions,  and  this  remark  is  particu- 
larly applicaljle  to  the  Cold  Coast  Colony, 
where  the  proportion  of  black  to  white  is  some- 
thing like  a  thousand  to  one.  It  is  only  by 
always  keeping  up  the  while  man's  i)restige  that 


A     Wi;sr     AlKKAX     MLIIW 


87 


the    l)iitishcT   is  alilc    to    maintain   his   hold  on 
these  savage  rai-es. 

Uavini;  arrived  at  a  delinile  ()laM  of  action, 
arrangonients  were  niaile  at  daybreak  lor  carry- 
ing it  out.  Tlie  plan  of  canij)aign  was  that  all 
the  ofticiTS  of  the  mutinous  rci^iment  (witli  the 
exception  of  Major  Charrier)  and  also  Colonel 
Henstock,  the  Kase  Commandant,  who  lived  in 
a  bungalow  outside  the  fort,  should  have  a  final 
palaver  with  the  mutineers.  A  sortie  party 
comprising  nearly  all  the  native  troops,  under  the 
command  of  Major  Charrier  and  two  while  slaff- 


inuiiediately  in  front  of  the  fort  in  .some  sort  of 
order  and  Colonel  Henstock  commenced  to 
address  them,  but  without  any  effect.  As  it 
happened  the  ringleader,  Mandingo,  was  stand- 
ing immediately  opposite  the  colonel,  and  it  was 
soon  apparent  that  so  long  as  Mandingo  was 
free  there  was  no  chance  of  getting  the  men  to 
surrender,  for  if  a  man  laid  down  liis  carbine  or 
showed  signs  of  wavering  his  leader  either  made 
him  take  it  up  again  or  fall  to  the  rear,  so 
("olonel  Henstock  resolved  on  a  bold  move. 
Turning   to  his  staff  officer.  Lieutenant  Wat.son, 


WATSON   RUSHED    IN    AMONG   Tllli   MUTl.NEEKS   AND   SECURED    Ills    .MAN." 


sergeants,  was  paraded  just  inside  the  principal 
gate  ready  for  any  emergency,  the  Maxim  gun 
was  loaded  and  placed  in  position  ready  for 
firing,  and  the  remainder  of  the  garrison  lined 
the  ramparts  facing  the  square  where  the  men 
were  assembled. 

Soon  after  daybreak  the  mutineers  were 
observed  to  be  cleaning  and  loading  their  car- 
bines, and  about  7  a.m.  the  officers  left  the  fort 
as  arranged.  I'"or  the  purpose  of  showing  the 
mutineers  we  had  no  fear  of  them  they  went 
entirely  unarmed,  merely  carrying  canes. 

The    nuitinecrs    had    formed    themselves    up 


an  old  Lifeguardsman,  he  pointed  towards  Man- 
dingo and  said,  "Arrest  that  man."  \Vithout 
the  slightest  hesitation  Watson  rushed  in 
amongst  the  mutineers  and  secured  his  man, 
(luieting  his  struggles  with  a  heavy  blow  on  the 
jaw. 

'I  hen  came  the  critical  moment.  The  men 
demanded  their  ringleader  back  and  some  fixed 
their  bayonets,  while  others  had  their  carbines 
at  their  shoulders  ready  to  fire.  It  was  simply 
a  trial  of  moral  force — white  versus  black — for 
about  ten  minutes,  when  AVatson,  seizing  a 
favourable  opportunity,  rushed    Mandingo   into 


88 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


the   fort,    at  wliicli   a  howl   of   rage   and   disap- 
pointment rose  from  the  mutineers. 

During  all  this  time  we  in  the  fort  were  ready 
to  act  on  any  emergency,  and  it  was  probably 
the  effect  of  seeing  the  muzzles  of  the  rifles,  the 
Maxim  gun,  and  some  thirty  or  forty  car- 
bines levelled  at  them  that  kept  the  mutineers 


about     three     day.s    after     llic    trouble    was    all 
over. 

A  court-martial  was  held  the  same  day  and 
^landingo  was  sentenced  to  be  shot,  this 
being  duly  carried  out  in  the  presence  of  the 
loyal  troops  and  the  mutineers  and  the  white 
residents.      It   was  decided    to  have   a    public 


"thus   ended   the   mutiny  ok    the   west   AFRICAN    REGIMENT. 


from    falling   on    the    little   grou[)   of   unarmed 
officers. 

The  rushing  of  Mandingo  into  the  fort  was 
the  turning-point  of  the  struggle,  for  the  men 
then  began  to  surrender,  and  with  the  excep- 
tion of  some  hundred  and  fifty,  who  inmiedialely 
marched  straight  away  out  of  the  town,  we  had 
secured  the  whole  lot  in  about  half  an  hour. 
The  men  who  marched  away  were  captured 
about  a  hundred  miles  along  the  coast — after 
having  done  a  considerable  amount  of  damage — 
by  a  party  of  bluejackets  landed  frf)m  the  gun- 
boat we  had  tek  graphed  for,  and  which  arrived 


execution,  as  by  so  doing  it  was  hoped  that  tlie 
white  man  would  regain  some  of  the  prestige  he 
had  lost  during  this  lamentable  affair. 

Thus  ended  the  mutiny  of  the  West  African 
Regiment  of  March,  1901,  of  which  very  little 
was  heard  in  this  country  at  the  time.  Although 
not  in  itself  responsible  for  much  bloodshed,  it 
might  have  developed— had  not  the  handful  of 
white  men  concerned  displayed  the  splendid 
courage  and  forbearance  which  they  did  into  a 
general  massacre  of  the  white  inhabitants  of 
Cape  Coast  Castle,  and  ended  most  disastrously 
for  the  whole  Colony. 


Paris    to    New    York    Overland. 


THE     NARRAThVE    OF    A    REMARKABLE     EXPEDITION. 

\\\    IIarrv  hi:  Wind  I,   l'.  R.Ci.S. 
VI.— FROM    CAPE    PRINCE    OF    WALES    TO    NEW    YORK. 

We  have  much  pleasure  in  announcing  that  we  have  secured  the  sole  and  exclusive  right  to  publish 
the  only  illustrated  account  of  Mr.  de  Windt's  great  feat  which  will  appear  in  this  country,  the 
reproductions  of  the  Kodak  photographs  taken  during  the  expedition  adding  greatly  to  the  vividness  Df 
the  narrative.  As  a  glance  at  a  map  of  the  world  will  show,  the  explorer's  journey  necessitated 
traversing  some  of  the  wildest  and  most  inhospitable  regions  of  the  earth,  where  even  the  elements 
fought  against  the  intrepid  party.  Mr.  de  Windt  essayed  the  journey  once  before,  but  on  that  occasion 
the  expedition  came  to  grief  on  the  ice-bound  shores  of  Behring  Sea,  and  the  author  barely  escaped 
with  his  life  from  the  hands  of  the  savage  natives.  This  time  complete  success  has  crowned 
the  venture  ;  but  the  adventures  met  with,  and  the  unheard-of  privations  endured  by  the  party 
form    a   unique    record   of    human    endurance    and   dogged   pluck. 


APE  PRINCE  OF  WALES  is  a 
rocky,  precipitous  promontory  which 
stands  fully  exposed  to  the  furious 
gales  so  prevalent  at  all  times  on  this 
connecting  link  between  Behring  Sea 
and  the  Arctic  Ocean.     The  Eskimo  settlement 


Mr.  \\'inkle  in  "  Pickwick  ")  "quietly  and 
comfortably  out  of  the  frying-pan  into  the 
fire."  For  we  were  welcomed  by  a  howl- 
ing gale  and  showers  of  driving  sleet,  against 
which  we  could  hardly  make  headway  from 
the  s[)ot  where  a  landing  was  effected    to  the 


IIIK    K:>KI.MU   SKTILIiMENT   AT  CAl'E    I'UINCF.   OK    WALES.    TIIIC    MOST   NORTH-WESTKRLV   POINT   Ol'    AMERICA. 

Froui  a  Photo. 


wliich  nestles  at  the  l)ase  of  the  cliff  is  low, 
drearier,  and  more  desolate  than  the  filthy 
Tcluiktchi  village  which  had  been  our  home  for 
so  many  weary  weeks.  At  first  it  seemed  to 
me  as  though  we  had  stepped  (like  tlie  iinmorlal 

Vnl.   xi.-T2. 


miserable  village,  a  distance  of  perhaps  a  mile, 
wiiich  it  took  us  an  hour  to  accomplish.  It 
was  barelv  six  o'clock  and  no  one  was  stirring  in 
the  settlement,  which  was  only  visible  a  short 
distance    awav,    for    the    Ivskimos,    unlike    the 


g6 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


Tchuktchis,  build  their  dwellings  underground. 
But  the  sight  of  a  wooden  house  with  glass 
windows  considerably  enlivened  the  dismal 
grey  and  storm-swept  landscape,  and  we 
made  our  way  to  this  solitary  haven,  which 
proved  to  be  the  residence  of  Mr.  Lopp,  an 
American  missionary.  His  home,  though  snug 
enough,  was  too  small  to  contain  more 
inmates,  being  already  occupied  by  its 
owner's  wife  and  family,  but  an  empty  shed 
adjoining  it  was  placed  at  our  disposal,  and  our 
hospitable  friend  bustled  about  to  make  it  as 
cosy  as  possible  for  our  reception.  'Hie  place 
was  cold,  {)itch  dark,  and  draughty,  being  only 
used  as  a  store-house  ;  but  by  midday  our  tent 


and  restraining  hand  of  Mr.  I-opp  to  keep  them  in 
order.  A  fairly  wide  and  varied  experience  of 
savage  races  has  seldom  shown  me  a  more 
arrogant,  insolent,  and  generally  offensive  race 
than  the  Alaskan  Eskimo,  at  any  rate  of  this 
portion  of  the  country.  The  Tchuktchis  were 
infinitely  superior  in  every  respect  l)Ut,  j)erhaps, 
cleanliness,  wliich,  after  all,  matters  little  in 
these  wilds.  With  all  their  faults  our  ^^"halen 
friends  were  just  and  generous  in  their  dealings, 
though  occasionally  dis(|uieting  during  their 
periods  of  festivity.  The  Eskimos  we  found 
boorish  and  surly  at  all  times,  and  the  treachery 
of  these  peoj)le  is  shown  by  the  fi^ct  that  they 
had  brutally  nmrdered   Mr.  Lopp's   predecessor 


!•  tout  a\ 


A   STKliKT    IN    NOME   CITY    IN    UI.NTEK. 


[Photo. 


was  pitched  inside  the  building  and  a  fire  was 
burning  merrily  in  a  small  stove  cleverly  fi.xed 
up  by  ilie  missionary,  whose  kindly  assistance 
was  very  welcome  on  this  bleak  and  barren 
shore.  I-'ood  is  scarce  enough  here,  and  iiajd  it 
not  been  for  our  good  friends  in  need  we  should 
have  fared  Inidly,  liaving  landed  on  this  coast 
with  but  few  provisions.  lUit,  although  they 
could  ill  afford  it,  the  missicjiiary  and  his  school 
teacher,  .Mrs.  Uernardi,  gave  freely  from  their 
scanty  store,  thereby  rendering  us  a  service 
whi(  h   I  can  never  adef|uately  repay. 

We  were  lucky  to  find  a  white  man  at  Cape 
Prince  of  Wales,  for  the  natives  would  certainly 
have  afforded  us  no  assistance  and  might,  indeed, 
have  been  actually  unfriendly  without  the  firm 


(without  apparent  cause)  by  shooting  him  with  a 
whale-gun.  Although  many  of  the  Prince  of 
Wales  natives  were  fairly  well  educated,  thanks 
to  nu'ssionary  enter{)rise,  the  Tchuktchis  could 
certainly  have  taught  them  manners,  for  the 
'I'cluiklchi  is  a  gentleman  by  nature,  the  Eskimo 
a  \  ulgar  and  obtrusive  cad. 

Nome  City  was  now  our  objective  j)oint,  but 
how  to  reach  it  by  land  was  a  puzzler,  the 
hundred  odd  miles  of  country  being  fiooded  by 
the  melting  snows.  The  natives  also  reported 
a  wide  and  unlordable  river,  which  at  this 
season  of  the  year  is  swollen  and  imi)assal)le. 
There  was  nothitig  for  it,  therefore,  but  to  wait 
jiatienlly  for  some  passing  craft  to  take  us  down' 
— a  gloomy  outlook,   for  the   wli.ilcrs   were   now 


PARIS    TO    Xi:\V    YORK    OVERLAND. 


91 


From  n\ 


WW.    MAIN    SIKEKT   UK    NOME   ClIV    IN    SI.MMKK. 


\l'!wto. 


nil  hound  northward.  Our  good  luck,  however, 
which  never  abandoned  us  throughout  this  long 
land  journey,  again  stood  us  in  good  stead,  and 
on  the  tenth  day  a  small  vessel  was  sighted 
approaching  the  Cape.  She  proved  to  be  the 
steamer  Sadi(\  of  the  Alaska  Commercial  Com- 
pany, which  had  put  in  for  water  and  was  pro- 
ceeding direct  to  Nome  City.  In  less  than 
twenty-four  hours  we  were  once  more  in  civiliza- 
tion, for  during  midsummer  there  is  now  un- 
broken   steam     communication     between     this 


remote  (aUiiough  up-to-date)   mining  settlement 
and  our  fnial  destination,  New  York. 

Our  journey  on  from  here  to  the  American 
capital  was  comparatively  uneventful,  for  Alaska 
is  becoming  so  civilized  that  I  fancy  she  will 
soon  be  invaded  by  the  army  of  Mr.  Cook. 
Cape  Nome,  only  four  years  ago  an  Arctic 
desert,  is  now  a  fine  city.  In  winter  the 
place  is  approachable  only  by  dog-sled,  but 
in  summer  you  can  now  travel  there  in 
large   liners    from    San    Francisco.       It    seemed 


FfOfH  a  I'hottK  hy\  IHK    VL  KUN    KIVI  K    SlIiAMKk    '*\VMnii    HOKbt   '    tN    K<jUTE    lO    DAWSON    CITY.  I //.   C".   I^arhy. 


92 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


A    STKAMKU    .NE(;()T1A  I  ING    Till':        FIVE    FlNCiliU        H 

From  a  Plioto.  by  Goetzman, 


Al'IDS    UN     |]|K    ^\.Kll^     KlVhK. 

Daivson. 


like  a  dream  to 
land  suddenly  in 
this  modern  town, 
within  a  day's 
journey  of  Wha- 
1 e  n  with  its 
savagery  and 
squalor,  and  it 
was  rather  trying 
to  walk  up  the 
main  street  in  our 
filthy,  ragged  state, 
hut  we  soon  got 
rigged  up  at  a  well- 
stocked  clothing 
estahl  ishm  e  n  t. 
And  that  evening, 
dining  in  a  luxuri- 
ous hotel,  with 
people  in  evening 
dress,  around  us 
•even  palms,  and 
a  string  hand,  I 
could  scarcely 
realize  that  almost 
yesterday  I  was 
living  from  hand 
to  mouth  in  a 
filthy  Siberian 
village.  Hand- 
some buildings, 
rhurches,  i)anks, 
theatres,  nt-ws- 
|)a[)crs,  and    elec- 


TIIK   STEAMERS   ARE   ASSISTED   THROUr.ll   THE 
From  a  /'hoto. 


RAIiDS   BY   A   TOW-KOI'E. 


trie  light  are  not 
usually  connected 
with  the  icebound 
Arctic.  But  ihcy 
are  all  to  be  found 
at  Nome  City. 

This  place  im- 
pressed me  as  a 
kind  o  f  d  i  r  t  y 
Monte  Carlo. 
There  is  the  same 
unrest,  the  same 
feverish  quest  for 
gold,  and  the 
same  extravagance 
of  life.  Five  years 
ago  nuggets  were 
picked  up  here  on 
the  beach  ;  now  it 
takes  machinery 
to  find  them  in 
the  interior.  For 
Alaska  is  no  place 
ff)r  a  poor  man. 
-Ml  the  country 
round  Nome  is 
owned  by  capital- 
ists, and  the  same 
can  be  said  of 
Dawson  City. 
The  best  property 
about  T'lome  is 
Anvil  Creek,  from 
which  about  three 


PARIS    TO    Xi:\\     YORK    OVLRl.AXD. 


million  dollars  have  been  taken  in  two  years, 
and  the  man  who  took  thcni  came  here  five 
years  ago  as  a  labourer  at  a  ijoimd  a  week  ! 
Much  indignation  was  caused  in  those  days  by 
the  amount  of  ground  seized  upon  by  the 
Protestant  missionaries.  An  Alaskan  poet  thus 
describes  the  situation  :  — 

Al  1.1-it  we  were  sure  we  had  struck  it, 
Hut  alas  for  our  hopes  of  reward  ; 

The  lau(lsca|>e  froiu  sea-beach  to  sky-line 
Was  staked  in  the  name  of  the  Lord  I 

From  Nome  City  a  few  hours  brings  us  to  St. 
Micliael's,  near  the  mouth  of  the   \'ukon  River. 


the  British  boundary  and  hailed  the  Union 
Jack  at  I'orty  Mile  City  as  an  old  ar.d  long- 
lost  friend. 

Dawson  City  has  been  so  repeatedly  described 
that  I  won't  go  over  old  ground.  Put  here, 
again,  it  seemed  as  though  a  good  fairy  had, 
with  one  touch  of  her  hand,  converted  the 
collection  of  half-a-dozen  filthy  Indian  wigwams, 
which  I  remember  in  1896,  into  a  bustling, 
modern  metropolis.  Barely  six  years  ago  we 
landed  here  and  vainly  endeavoured  to  procure 
some  hot  water  for  our  kettle  from  the  un- 
savoury natives.      The   place  was    then  known 


From  a  Photo .  ^y] 


IK      MK.     I.K     UIMjI    S    lAUIV    AKKI'.!-,!/     Illl    I.K     II      UAs    SLhI   tlil.NL, 
A    I'LAGUE   OK    RATS. 


[liodzinan. 


Five  years  ago  I  travelled  down  the  Yukon 
in  a  grimy  little  steamer,  where  we  slept  on 
planks  and  ate  bacon  and  beans  in  our  shirt- 
sleeves. This  time  I  went  on  a  Mississippi 
flier  with  every  luxury  on  board,  from  spring 
mattresses  to  a  dinner  of  five  courses.  The 
journey  of  about  a  fortnight  from  the  sea  to 
Dawson  City  is  intolerably  monotonous,  the 
Catiiolic  mission  of  Holy  Cross  being  the  one 
interesting  spot  throughout  the  sixteen  hundred 
miles.      A  few  miles   below  Dawson   wc  crossed 


as  "Throndiiik,'  or  the  "  I'ish  River,"  a  name 
now  converted  into  "  Klondike  "  by  the  jargon 
of  many  nationalities.  Bacon  and  beans  (or 
'•  Alaskan  strawberries,"  as  the  latter  are  here 
called)  formed  our  modest  meal  on  that 
oc;casion,  and  it  .seemed  more  than  strange 
on  the  first  sultry,  sunny  afternoon  of  my  recent 
stay  to  be  invited  by  a  party  of  smartly-dressed 
ladies  to  partake  of  ices  in  a  palatial  cafe 
on  the  very  same  spot  !  The  latter  was, 
on    the    occasion    of    my    former    visit,    about 


94 


-v\iv:  wiDi: 


WORLD   ma(;azine. 


the  worst  place  on 
the  river  for  that 
curse  of  Alaska — 
mosquitoes. 
"Old-timers" 
used  to  aver  that 
at  "Throndiuk' 
these  pests  were 
as  "  biy  as  rahtiits 
and  bit  at  botli 
ends,"  but,  al- 
t  h  o  u  ff  h  still 
numerous  on  its 
outskirts,  they 
have  now  entirely 
disajtpearcd  from 
the  town.  'l"he 
latter,  however, 
has  lately  suffered 
from  a  visitation 
of  rats  which  is 
rapidly  assuming 
serious  [)ropor- 
tions.  Originally 
brought  to  St. 
Michael's  during 
the  gold  rush  by 
an  old,,  patched-up 
barque  from  San 
I'Vancisco,  the  en- 
terprising  rodents 


/■'/  oin  a  Photo,  by} 


AN    Al.ASKAX    INDIAN    COD. 


IUuU\. 


boarded  a  river 
s  t  e  a  m  e  r  and 
landed  in  Dawson 
City,  where  con- 
ditions appear  es- 
pecially favourable 
to  their  rejjroduc- 
tion.  When  we 
were  there  last 
July  scarcely  a 
house  in  the  place 
was  free  from  this 
vermin,  and  at 
night,  or  through 
its  twilight  hours, 
the  streets 
swarmed  with  the 
disgusting  brutes, 
who  seemed  to 
regard  h  u  m  a  n 
beings  with  su- 
preme indiffer- 
ence. A  fortune 
a  w  aits  a  goo  d 
Lo  n  d  o  n  r  a  t  - 
catcher  in  Dawson 
City. 

I'rom  what  I 
could  glean  the 
days  of  fiibulous 
finds    are    over 


ln<iii  n  /'liolo.  l>y] 


AN    INDIAN    "Por-LAILII        DAI^Ct, 


[//.  C.  liarti-y. 


PARIS    TO   xi:\v   YORK   ()\'i:ri..\n I). 


95 


Frotit  a  I  ..    ;,'.  ry\ 

here.  Klondike 
lias  generally 
been  boomed  or 
slumped  to  ex- 
tremes ;  but  I 
fancy  tbe  real 
truth  is  that  in 
these  days  a 
man  with  ten 
thousand  [)ounds 
capital  can  make 
money  here,  and 
"  no  others  with 
less  need  ap|)lv." 
I  know  Alaska 
too  WL-ll  to  ad- 
vise anyone  to 
go  there,  but  if 
any  man  is  bent 
on  doini;  so  let 
li  i  m  try  t  h  e 
(lopper  River 
country,  which  at 
present  is  prac- 
tif.ally  unknown. 
I  have  seen  a 
nugget  from 
there,  picked  up 
last  year,   worth 


•v^-n 


.   V 


■  -    -5 


J.«»«» 


A.-«»- 


IK 


|V 


^ 


\\  Al'    (li      E.il    Iw     I,      M,\^k\       \.\    iJ.ri,    >L|,i,    i.\l.;|;    -IHK    CHIl.KnoT    rA>,~. 


I 

< 


THE  >.;:\v  WAV— VIA  tmr  wiiirr  pass  raiiavay. 
Frctit  a  /'/to to.  I'y  //.  C.  Hatlcy. 


I  ( .    itziiiaii. 

two  hundred 
dollars.  A  friend 
of  mine  is  there 
now  prospecting, 
and  in  his  last 
letter  had  struck 
indications  of 
Very  rich  ground. 
Many  have  been 
scared  away 
from  the  C'opper 
River  by  reports 
of  dangerous 
natives,  but  there 
is  now  nothing 
to  fear  on  that 
score.  There 
are  very  f  e  w 
prospectors 
there  as  yet,  but 
it  is  a  poor  man's 
country  with 
great  possibili- 
ties, and  it  is 
open  all  the  year 
round. 

The  new  route 
out  from  Daw- 
son   ("ity    is    by 


r6 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


THE    WHITK    I'ASS    RAILWAY    IS   A    .MARVFI.   OK    ENGINEERING   SKILL— HERE   WE    SEE    .MEN    FKETAKINt;   THE    WAY 

Froiii  a  Photo,  hy]  for  the  track.  \ll.  C.  P,ajley, 


the  White  Pass  Railway,  which  is  distinctly 
interesting.  In  1S96  I  crossed  the  Chilkoot  Pass, 
and  suffered  severely  from  cold  and  exposure. 
This  time  I  left  Alaska 
over  a  mountain  nearly 
as  precipitous  as  the 
Chilkoot  in  a  comfortable 
railway  car.  The  White 
Pass  Railway  is  a  wonder 
of  the  world,  but  I  should 
recommend  nervous  tra- 
vellers to  avoid  it.  For 
it  is  rightly  called  a 
"  hair-raising  line  "  1  At 
one  point  the  train  passes 
over  a  light  trestle  bridge 
clamped  to  the  rock  by 
means  of  iron  girders, 
and  here  you  may  stand 
u|)  in  the  car  and  look 
down  a  sheer  thousand 
feet  into  space.  I  lie 
whole  flimsy  structure 
shook  so  under  the  heavy 
weight  of  metal  that  I 
felt  some  relief  when  our 
wheels  were  once  more 
gliding  over  lerra  ftniia. 
"  Something  will  ha[)pen 
here  some  day  ! "  re- 
marked a  fellow-passen- 
ger, and  I  fancy  he  was 
not  far  wrong.      The  train  /,v^„,  „  p,,^,^. 


A    KLO.NOIKE 


runs  daily  either  way  throughout  the  year,  and 
in  winter  horse  and  dog  sleds  are  used  instead 
of   steamers    to    reach    Dawson.       Comfortable 

post  -  houses  at  intervals 
of  about  twenty  miles 
now  render  this  a  com- 
paratively easy  trip  even 
in  midwinter  for  the  most 
inexperienced  traveller. 

Skagway,  the  southern 
terminus  of  this  line,  is  a 
pretty,  well-laid-out  town. 
It  was  once  the  residence 
of  a  noted  "  crook  "  and 
confidence  man,  whose 
deeds  of  violence  are 
still  s|)oken  of  with  bated 
breath.  This  iminident 
scoundrel  was  clever 
enough  to  become  mayor 
of  the  town  (about  three 
years  ago),  and  was  thus 
riiabled  to  ronunit  rob- 
beries on  a  much  larger 
scale.  Many  a  poor 
miner  leaving  the  country 
with  a  hardly  earned  pile 
has  been  completely 
llceced  and  sometimes 
murdered  by  the  in- 
iijuitous  and  ubiquitous 
"  Soapy,"  who  is  said 
to  have  shiin    (indirectly 


si  I- II    poos. 


PARIS    TO    Ni:\V    YORK    OVERLAND. 


or  cliixclly)  owi  hvciUy  men.  I'iiiiilly,  liowevcr, 
a  mass  meeting  was  lielcl  and  "  Soapy  "  was  shot 
tienci,  not,  liowcvcr,  before  he  had  also  taken 
the  life  of  his  slayer.  Oiw  illustration  shows 
the  ruffian  in  the  saloon  in  which  most  of  liis 
deeds  of  darkness  were  committed. 

Many  who  have  read  this  account  of  our  long 
land  journey  will  no  doubt  ask,  "What  was  the 
object  of  this  stupendous  voyage,  or  the  reward 
to  be  gaini'd  by  enduring  all  these  hardshi[)s 
and  i)ri  vat  ions  ? "  I  would  reply  that  my 
primary  pur|)ose  was  to  ascertain  the  feasibility 
of  constructing  a  railway  between  lYance  and 
Ainerico,   a    ([uestion    in    wliich    the    Euiopean 


the  newspa|)ers,  but  a  project  jjromoted  by 
[)er.sons  who  (I  am  credibly  informed)  have 
never  been  nearer  Siberia  than  the  (lare  du 
Xord  is  scarcely  worthy  of  consideration. 
\\  hen  lilting  out  our  expedition  I  was  nmch 
amused  Ijy  a  letter  from  a  worthy  IVencI)  gentle- 
man, which  appeared  in  the  Paris  edition  of 
the  New  York  Hera/d.  This  irate  Oaul  appa- 
rently resented  my  embarking  on  the  long  land 
journey  as  lie  claimed  the  "  paternity  of  the 
scheme,"  which,  presumably,  was  fathered  on  the 
Boulevards,  where  it  has  apparently  remained. 
However,  it  is  an  incontestable  fact  that  my 
expedition  has  been  the  first  to  accomplish  this 


Till-.    MAN    WITH    IHli    IJliAKl)    IS   "SOAI'Y   SMITH,"    A    NdlDKIOUS   KLONDIKE    DESPERADO   UllO    WAS    I.VNCHED    IN    1399. 

From  a  I'hoto.  hy  Lams  ami  Duclos. 


Press  was  then  largely  interested.  Another 
reason  is  one  with  which  every  Englishman  will 
readily  sympathize.  The  feat  had  never  before 
been  accomi)lished,  and  my  first  attempt  in 
1.S96  hatl  failed  half-way  on  the  Siberian  sliores 
of  Hehring  Straits. 

One  word  in  conclusion  as  to  the  pro]iosed 
line  from  ICuro[)e  to  the  United  States.  That  a 
railway  will  some  day  connect  Paris  and  New 
York  I  have  little  d<jubt.  \Yhere  riches  are  a 
railway  must  surely  follow,  and  there  is  no  (jues- 
tion  whatever  about  the  boundless  mineral 
resources  of  Siberia  and  Alaska.  Put  I  am 
cjuite  certain  that  the  line  won't  be  laid  in  this 
generation,  and  I  very  much  doubt  whether  the 
next  will  travel  by  it.  Some  time  ago  a  wikl- 
cat   I'Vench   scheme  was  vaguelv  mentioned   in 

Vol.  xi.-i3. 


land  journey  from  end  to  end,  and,  although  no 
engineer,  I  can  well  realize  the  almost  insur- 
mountable obstacles  in  the  way  of  a  railway.  I 
need  only  mention  two  —  Hehring  Straits  and  the 
three  thousand  miles  of  "  tundras,"  or  swamps, 
wlii<h  separate  them  from  \'akulsk.  liehring 
Straits  are  forty  milts  wide  at  the  narrowest 
part,  or  nearly  twice  the  breadth  of  the  Straits 
of  Dover.  'I'he  "bridge  theory"'  is  therefore 
absurd,  although  my  Parisian  friends  discussed 
it  with  amusing  gravity.  They  might  as  well 
talk  of  a  line  to  the  planet  Mars,  for  the 
mightiest  bridge  ever  built  would  not  stand 
the  break-up  of  the  ice  here  for  a  week. 
A  tunnel  coultl  no  doubt  be  constructed, 
ijut  what  would  it  cost  and  where  is  the 
money    coming    from    to    re[)ay    its    construe- 


98 


I'HE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


tion  ?  The  three  thousand  miles  of  swamp  is 
another  stumbHng-block  ahiiost  as  hard  to  get 
over.  No  doubt  this  could  be  railed  on  the  same 
system  as  that  employed  to  negotiate  Chat  Moss 
in  Lancashire.  But  the  line  across  Chat  Moss 
is  only  four  miles  long,  and  cost  twenty-eight 
thou-sand  pounds.  At  this  rate  the  "swamp 
section  "  of  the  Behring  Straits  Railway  would 
alone  cost  over  twenty  millions  sterling,  and  tin's 
must    be    expended   before  a  tunnel   under  the 


would  eventually,  but  a  piactical  mineral  survey 
of  Arctic  Siberia  must  take  at  least  fifteen  or 
twenty  years.  If  reports  are  then  very  favour- 
able Russia  may,  perhaps,  begin  to  consider 
the  question  of  a  Russo -American  Railway. 
Personally  I  should  at  present  be  sorry  to  invest 
money  in  any  venture  connected  with  the 
scheme,  for  all  the  prominent  Russian  officials 
whom  I  have  met  almost  ridicule  the  idea  of 
this  visionary,  so-called  "  All-^^'orld  Railway." 


From  a\ 


NliW    VOKK— HIE   li.ND   Ol'    THE   t.KEAT   JULKNEV 


riiofo. 


Straits  is  even  thought  of!  When  I  arrived 
home  in  September  last  I  was  asked  by  news- 
pa|)er  reporters  whether  I  considered  a  railway 
possible.  Most  certainly  is  it  possible,  but  the 
(|Uestion  is,  would  it  i)ay  1  Surely  not  unless  the 
countries  traversed  would  (within  a  measurable 
time)  refund  a  gigantic  outlay.      Probably  they 


On  the  5th  of  August  San  Francisco  was 
reached.  On  the  18th  of  August  we  arrived 
safely  in  New  York,  comparatively  little  the 
worse  for  our  tough  experiences,  after  a  journey 
of  eighteen  thousand  four  hundred  and  twenty- 
eight  miles  from  Paris,  which  took  two  hundred 
and  forty-eight  days  to  accomplish. 


IIIK    KXO. 


Odds    and    Ends. 


Caught    in    a    Prairie    "Muskeg"  — A    Mexican    Carrier  —  The    Artist's    House-boat 

Conflagration— An  Easter  Ceremony  at  Jerusalem,  etc. 


A    Terrific 


HE  first  pliotograph  represents  an 
unpleasant  and  rather  exciting  ex- 
perience which  occasionally  falls  to 
the  lot  of  the  Western  settler.  The 
correspondent  who  sends  us  the 
photograph  writes  as  follows  :  "  We  were  driving 
out  to  a  ranch  and  had  diverged  from  the  trail 
in  order  to  see  a  fine  collection  of  brood  mares, 
when  we  unluckily  fell  into  a  swam[).  This 
proved  to  be  a  prairie  '  muskeg '  of  the  worst 
description.  Both  our  horses  got  hopelessly 
bogged  up,  like  flies  in  a  trcacle-pot.  \Vhen  they 
had  been  cut  loose  and  the  buggy  removed,  one, 
by  mighty  efforts,  fought  its  way  to  safety,  while 
the  other,  after  a  few  desperate  attempts  to 
escape  from  the  mud  and  slime,  a[iparently  gave 
up  all  hope  of  extricatmg  itself.  For  three  hours 
we  hauled  at  it,  cutting  down  branches  of  trees 
and  doing  everything  else  we  could  think  of  to 
give  the  poor  beast  a  foothold.  While  this 
struggle  was  proceeding  it  occurred  to  me  to 


take  a  photograph.  The  camera  was  stood  on 
a  tussock  of  grass,  the  tripod  sunk  in  the  mud, 
and  as  we  all  slowly  subsided  together  the  ex- 
posure was  made.  I  am  pleased  to  add  that  we 
were  eventually  able  to  recover  the  poor  animal 
alive.  A  team  of  strong  horses  was  fetched 
from  a  neighbouring  ranch,  a  long  rope  carried 
from  the  bank  out  to  the  unfortunate  horse,  and 
before  it  could  realize  that  relief  had  come  it 
was  hauled  out  to  dry  land  on  its  back,  shivering 
and  groaning,  but  safe." 

The  careador,  or  carrier,  of  Mexico  is  a  most 
remarkable  individual.  He  is  a  carrier's  cart  of 
England,  the  express  waggon  of  the  States, 
and  a  strong  man  all  in  one.  Nothing  seems 
too  bulky,  nothing  too  heavy  for  him  to  carry, 
and  it  is  quite  wonderful  how  he  manages  not 
only  to  lift,  but  to  balance  his  cumbersome 
loads.  It  is  nothing  for  a  man  to  carry  a  load 
weighing  four  hundred  pounds,  this  being  borne 
either  on  the  top  of  the  head  or  on  the  shoulders. 


I 


y. 


riir. 


— *l'**v**^^-"^. 


v^-;TV 


•t  .'^ 


•K  :^- 


41 


CAUr.HT    IN    A    PRAIKIF. 

From  a  Photo.  />)>] 


MUSKF.r,    — IT    TOllK    OVKK    TIIKKK    HOURS   Tl)    KXTKICATE   THK    I'OOR    HOKSK    KHn\l    TIIR 

ML'I>   AND    SI.IMi:    UIIICII     I  IIRKA  I  KNED    In    KMill.K    II'.  [.V.   P.   F.dwards. 


100 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


THE     MFXICAN 

Front  a] 


^I'hoto. 


shot  is  apparently  a  believer  in  solid  com- 
fort, and  also  a  hit  of  a  dandy.  His  sun-hat 
is  of  the  latest  summer  pattern,  and  he 
wears  trousers  of  blue  jean  to  keep  the  tlies 
from  Ijiling  his  legs.  A  large  piece  of  canvas 
over  his  back  shelters  him  from  rain  as  well 
as  insects.  Appreciating  the  photographer's 
attempt  to  make  a  good  picture  of  him,  he 
ap[)arently  tried  to  smile,  but  opened  his 
mouth  too  wide,  the  result  being  a  kind  of 
horse-laugli.  This  extraordinarily-equi|)ped 
quadruped  was  photographed  at  Toledo, 
U.S.A.,  in  the  summer  of  last  year,  while 
engaged  in  hauling  a  waggon  laden  with 
furniture.  His  owner  must  be  i)oth  con- 
siderate and  bold. 

We  have  next  to  consider  a  remarkable 
little  medi;x,'val  church  which  was  dis- 
covered through  a  drca nr.  A  )()ung  woman 
living  in  a  village  near  Pirot,  in  Servia, 
dreamed  one  night  of  a  buried  church. 
She  s]ioke  of  it  to  the  prefect  and  the 
local    clergy,     but    they    only     laughed    at 


and  kept  in  place  by  a  flat  braid  passing 
across  the  forehead.  Men  take  the  place  of 
vehicles  in  Mexico,  all  furniture  being  moved 
from  house  to  house  either  on  men's  heads  or 
shoulders  or  on  small  wooden  stretchers.  The 
man  seen  in  the  photograph  is  carrying  two 
large  tables,  four  boxes,  and  a  chest  of  drawers, 
a  feat  worthy  of  a  professional  strong  man,  yet 
(juite  a  common  sight  in  Mexico. 

The  horse  seen   in   the  accompanying  snap- 


>i*? 


lloi:si;   wi  Alls 


A    MNIIAl,     I  Kin  sl.Hs,    A.M)   AN    0\  l-.KtUA  1 . 

J'roiii  a  /'holo. 


A    CriAri-l,    HUII,T    FROM    THK   RUINS   OF    A    MF,Dl.i;VAL  CIILKCH 
WHICH    WAS    DISCOVEKFI)   THROUGH    A    DkKAM. 

From  a  riioto. 

her.  She  persisted  in  her  statements,  however, 
and  ultimately  induced  the  people  to  dig  at  a 
spot  she  indicated.  Here,  to  the  intense  sur- 
prise of  everyone  but  the  dreamer,  the  ruins  of 
a  mcdiajval  church  were  found.  These  were 
rebuilt  as  a  tiny  chapel,  and  since  then  hundreds 
of  peo|)le  have  macle  pilgrimages  to  the  place. 
The   chapel    is    simply   crowded    with    tablets, 


ODDS    AND     I:NM)S. 


101 


r> 


sacred    icons,  and  other   tril)Utcs  of   the 

faillilul.     The  woman  whose  dream   led 

to  its  discovery  is  the  presiding  genius  of 

tlie  |)lace,  and  receives  so  many  gifts  from 

the  worsluppers  that  she  is  already  tiuite 

rich.     Our  photograph  shows  the  dream- 
church    and     its     discoverer,     witli     her 

children. 

In  a  garden  belonging  to  a  native  at 

Madras  there  is  a  small   grove   of  whip 

trees.      Here  all    the  flying-fo.xes    in    the 

neighbourhood  roost  during  the  daytime, 

hanging  with  tlieir  heads  down,  like  bats. 

As  will  be  seen  from  the  photograph  the 

trees  afford  a  most  remarkable  s[)ectacle, 

as  they  appear  to  be  covered  with  a  curious 

kind  of  fruit.     People  residing    near  the 

spot    look   on    the   flying-fo.xes  with    dis- 
favour, for  when   not  asleep  they  spend 

most  of  their  time  in  quarrelling,  chatter- 
ing, and  screaming  incessantly  until  they 

bceome  sleepy    again.       In  the    evening 

these  curious  creatures  all  fly  off  to  their 

feeding  -  grounds,     where     they     remain 

during  the  night,  returning  to  their  home 

in  the  trees  at  dawn. 

There  are  several  well-known  artists  in 

this  country  who  make   their   homes  for 

painting    purposes    on    house-boats    and 

other  craft,  but   it   is   safe  to  say  that  we 

have  no  painter  who  not  only  lives  and 

works  in  a  floatmg  home,  but  who  also 

uses  it  as  an  exhibition  hall  for  his  pictures 

and  as  a  means  of  getting  from  place  to  place.         appropriately  named  the  Roamer^  and  in  it  Mr. 

The  accom[)anying  photograph  shows  the  house-         Nieuwenkamp  travels  from  place  to  place  paint- 
boat  which  is  the  home  of  Mr.  Nieuwenkamp,  a         ing  pictures.      Periodically  he  moors  his  vessel 

well-known    Dutch  artist.      This  little  vessel  is         to  the  quay  at  some  town  or  other,  and  holds 

an  exhibition  and  sale  of 
his  works,  a  small  entrance 
fee  being  charged.  When  a 
place  has  been  thoroughly 
"  done,"  the  Roiimc?-  sails 
away  either  to  another  town 
or  to  one  or  other  of  the 
artist's  painting  -  grounds. 
The  boat  is  beautifully  fitted 
up,  the  carving  and  decora- 
tion being  Air.  Nieuwen- 
kamp's  own  work. 

The  impressive  photo- 
grapli  we  next  reproduce 
shows  an  oil  "gusher" 
and  a  tank  containing 
thirty- seven  thousand 
barrels  of  oil  on  fire  at 
the  "Spindle  T  o  p  " 
oil -field  in  Texas.  Just 
three  weeks    after    the 

THIS    llOUSIi-lJO.\T   IS   THE    HOME,    STUDIO,    AND    EXHnilTION    GAl.LKKV   ALL   IN   ONE   OF  -  ,  • 

^•"""«)  A  xvE,.L.KN„w.s  ..urc.  AXT.sr.  \Photo.        great      fire      at      Jennings, 


A    CURIOUS   SPECTACl.F.   AT    MADRAS —TREKS   COVERED    WITH    SLEETING 
From  a\  FLYING-FOXES.  [Photo. 


162 


THE   WIDE  WORT.D   MAGAZINE. 


described  in  our  January  number,*  the  tank 
seen  on  the  left  of  the  photograph  was 
mysteriously  ignited.  Everything  hereabouts, 
even  the  very  derricks  themselves,  is  saturated 
with  oil,  and  when  the  great  tank  burst  into 
flame  the   fire   spread  with   lightning    rapidity. 


of  the  well's  gushing  propensities.  Why  one 
well  among  so  many,  all  doubtless  tapping  the 
.same  subterranean  reservoir,  should  suddenly 
commence  spouting  is  inexplicable.  No  words 
of  descri[)tion  are  needed  to  attest  the  terrific 
grandeur    of     the     scene     depicted     in      the 


A     rKKKIFIC  <")It.-l"IHE   AT   TIM,    "  s]|  Md.K    luf"    I'l  KI.IJS,     1  I.XA 

1-ront aCofyrigltt  Photo.}  on  rm-;  i.kft  a  tank  coma 

l^verything  on  the  surface  was  threatened,  but 
lljcre  was  no  danger  of  the  fire  sapping  out  all 
the  valued  stores  of  Mother  Earth,  as  from  too 
much  tajjping  the  "gushers"  had  long  since 
sto|)ped  s[)outing.  The  fire  had  not  been  burn- 
ing an  hour,  iiowcvcr,  when  suddenly,  with  a  roar 
like  a  cannon,  a  great  ball  of  flame  shot  u[)  from 
a  well  beside  the  i^urning  tank,  expanding  into  a 
huge  sphere  as  it  cleft  the  suffocating  black 
smoke  arising  from  the  burning  oil.  It  poised 
for  a  moment  -balanced,  as  it  were,  on  the 
point  of  the  stream  that  followed  it  a  hundred 
and  fifty  feet  into  the  air  and  then  burst  like 
a  bomb,  each  of  the  smaller  balls  into  which  it 
broke  flaming  as  they  fell.  More  mysterious 
even  than  the  origin  of  the  fire  was  this  revival 

*  "  Fighting  a  Fire  for  a  Fortune,"  l>y  Frederick  Moore.  — FU>. 


s— (i.N     I  mi:    kh.ll  r    will,    l!E   SliE.V    A    l'.I.AZI\(; 
IM.Nt;    37,000    IIAKKEI.S   OK    OIL. 


•(USMEl;        AND 

l/y  /•■.  /.  Frost. 


photogra[)h,  and  the  striking  contrast  between 
the  slender  fountain  of  fire  and  the  great 
billows  of  jet-black  smoke.  One's  imagination 
reels  at  the  thought  of  what  might  have 
happened  if  the  conflagration  had  occurred 
when  all  tiie  wells  in  tiiis  region  were 
spouting.  After  a  time  the  tank  fire  was 
starved  out  by  the  drawing  off  of  the  oil 
from  underneath  it.  The  burning  "gusher" 
presented  a  more  difficult  problem,  but  as  luck 
would  have  it  the  stream  of  oil  clogged  in 
some  way  and  the  few  flames  left  were  soon 
extinguished,  so  that  wlien  a  special  train 
arrived  from  Houston,  bringing  a  thousand 
excursionists  all  eager  to  see  the  great  fire,  there 
was  nothing  but  the  smoking  wreckage  to  be 
seen,  and  an  army  of  labourers  already  hard  at 
work  clearing  the  way  for  new  derricks. 


ODDS    AND    ENDS. 


lO: 


THF        MlEKItATEKb' 

From  a\ 


.MO.SL.MK.Nl         SEAK- 
lOAHO. 


1  IILNIJI.U     MuUN  IAIN, 

\rhoh>. 


The  striking  photograjih  reproduced  above 
shows  a  curious  work  of  Nature  near  Thunder 
Mountain,  Idaho,  U.S.A.  This  gigantic  niono- 
hth  is  eighty  feet  high,  and  about  ten  or  twelve 
feet  square  at  the  base,  tapering  towards  the  top 
to  about  seven  feet  or  less.  The  great  rock 
poised  on  the  top  is  estimated  to  weigh  fully  ten 
tons.  The  obelisk  is  known  as  the  "  Sheepeaters' 
Monument,''  and  the  Indians  have  a  curious 
legend  to  account  for  it.  Many  years  ago,  they 
say,  before  the  white  men  came,  the  Sheepeaters 
were   attacked    in    the    valley    below   the   shaft 


by  a  war  i)arty  of  liannocks  from  the  south. 
The  conflict  raged  fiercely,  but  the  Sheep- 
eaters, fighting  for  their  homes  and  hunting- 
grounds,  ultimately  defeated  their  foes.  The 
Clreat  Spirit  was  told  of  the  battle  by  the 
Indians  who  had  been  killed  in  the  fight,  and 
gone  to  the  happy  hunting-ground.  They 
told  the  Great  Spirit  of  the  valorous  deeds  of 
their  tribe  in  defending  their  homes,  and  he 
said  that  he  would  build  a  monument  on  the 
battle-ground  that  should  stand  for  all  ages  as 
evidence  of  the  Sheepeaters'  prowess.  Ne.xt 
spring  there  came  a  great  snow-slide,  and  when 
the  grass  grew  again  there  stood  the  monument, 
about  ten  feet  high,  and  on  the  top  the  balanced 
rock,  'i'he  monolith,  they  say,  has  grown  larger 
each  year,  as  the  Great  Spirit  has  been  more 
pleased  with  the  Sheepeaters.  The  enemies  of 
the  tribe,  the  Indians  declare,  were  placed 
underneath  the  top  rock,  and  there  has  been 
no  trouble  since.  As  a  matter  of  fact,  the 
monument— which  is  of  a  granite-like  hard- 
ness— has  been  formed  by  the  gradual  wearing 
away  of  the  softer  rock  formation  surrounding 
it.  A  more  striking  natural  monument  it  would 
be  difficult  to  find  anywhere  in  the  world. 

At    first  glance  the   photo,   next   reproduced 
a[)pears    to    show    an    elephant    sitting    down 


A    CURIOUS    KI.EI'HANT   CUT   Ol'T   OF    THE    SOLID 
Front  d\  SWISS     RIVULET. 

in  a  running  stream,  amusing  himself 
ing  water  from  his  trunk.  In  reality 
the  gigantic  beast   is  cut   out   of  the 


OCK    IN    A 


by  Sfjuirt- 
,  however, 
.solid  rock 


I04 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


From  a\      an  raster  ckremoxv  at  Jerusalem— watting  kor  the  "holy  fire. 

ill  the  middle  of  a  rivulet  in  the  forest  of 
Ziirichberg,  near  Ziirich,  Switzerland.  Thi-s 
curious  piece  of  sculpture  was  erected  by  a 
society  in  Zurich  which  occupies  its  time  embel- 
lishing the  beautiful  walk.s,  etc.,  round  about 
that  favourite  tourist 
resort. 

The  photograph  repro- 
duced above  was  taken 
in  Jerusalem  on  the 
eve  of  the  (jreek  Easter, 
and  shows  the  courtyard 
of  the  Church  of  the 
Holy  Sei)ulchre  at  the 
moment  when  the  great 
cr(jwd  of  Russian  and 
other  !>  i  1  g  r  i  m  s  w  h  o 
annually  visit  the  place 
are  waiting  m  suspense 
for  the  "holy  fire  "— 
which  they  believe  to 
come  direct  from  Heaven 
—  to  be  lighted  inside. 
The  great  bells  of  the 
church  have  just  tolled 
out,  and  the  figure  seen 
running  is  that  of  the 
first  [lerson  to  come 
out  with  the  sacred 
flame.      This   is  contained 


in  a  lantern,  ami  the 
ir.an  will  run  with  it 
the  whole  way  to  Beth- 
lehem, where  the  priests 
are  waiting  at  the  altar 
for  it. 

The    difficulties    of 
travel      in       the      Andes 
are    strikingly    shown    in 
our    last    photograph, 
which     depicts     a    mule 
train  traversing  the  snow 
and    ice    of   one    of    the 
high     passes.       In    addi- 
tion   to  the    fearful    cold 
of     these    altitudes,     the 
rarefied    air    causes    the 
blood    to  ooze   from    the 
nose  and  ears  of  the  un- 
fortunate   traveller,  while 
the     perils    of    [)recipice, 
avalanche,    and     tempest 
menace     him    on     every 
hand.      Vet    this    terrible 
range    must    perforce    l.'e 
crossed   liy  anyone  wish- 
ing   to    go    from    Chili    to    the    y\rgenline    Re- 
public.     In   winter    even   this  uninviting    route 
is    impracticable,    no    other    way     being    open 
except     the    long    and    perilous    sea    journey 
round    stormy  Cape    Horn 


{Photo. 


^W 


I'lOIII  a  I'koto.  Ov\         A    .MULii    TRAIN    CROSSING   A    l.I.ACIEK    IN     VWV.   ANDES.  {N.  P.  Edlvards, 


'>Uor\-e   ^ 


THE    MAN    ALMOST    SI'UN    IX    THE    AH<    AS    HE    HURTLED    BACKWARDS 

INTO    THE    RIVER." 


(SEK    PAGE    Io8. ) 


The  Wide  World  Magazine. 


Vol.  XI. 


JUNE,    1903. 


No.  62. 


3   Chapter  of    flishaps. 

Bv  LovAT  Fraser. 

An    account    of  a    disastrous    canoe    trip    up    the    Zambesi.      The    native    boatmen    mutinied    and 
plotted  to  kill  the  author ;  malarial  fever  laid  hold  of  him  ;  and  the  wreck  of  the  canoe  and  a  forest 

fire  put   an   abrupt  end  to   the  ill-starred  expedition. 


r  all  happened  during  my  recent 
expedition  to  Central  Africa,  when, 
unaccompanied  by  any  other  white 
man,  I  set  out  from  Chinde,  at  the 
mouth  of  tne  Zambesi,  with  the 
object  of  making  my  way  up  the  river  as  far  as 
its  junction  with  its  tributary,  the  Shire,  and 
thence  up  the  latter  stream  to  Chiromo. 

There  are  several  river  steamers  which  will 
convey  the  traveller  with  moderate  comfort  as 
far  up  stream  as  the  latter  village ;  but  in  my 
own  case,  having  plenty  of  time  on  my  hands,  I 
decided  to  essay  the  journey  in  an  ordinary 
native  canoe,  accompanied  only  by  natives. 

My  craft  was  one  of  the  most  uncomfortable 
that  I  have  ever  been  in.  It  leaked  prodigiously, 
and  at  the  slightest  movement  of  its  occupants 
threatened  to  overturn  the  lot  of  us  amongst  the 
hungry-looking  crocodiles  which  abound  in  the 
Zambesi  and  Shire  rivers. 

My  crew  were  very  little  better  than  the  vessel. 
A  more  sulky,  ill-tempered,  lazy,  and  insolent 
set  it  has  not  often  been  my  misfortune  to' come 
across — even  among  the  coast  negroes  of  Equa- 
torial Africa.  Before  we  started  upon  our  long 
river  trip  they  appeared  willing  and  energetic 
enough  ;  but  once  we  had  left  Chinde  behind 
us,  and  had  passed  on  our  right  the  flourishing 
sugar  plantations  at  Vicenti,  they  threw  off  the 
mask. 

Besides  myself  and  my  black  servant,  our 
canoe  had  eight  occupants  ;  and  the  task  of 
looking  after  these  scoundrels,  making  them 
work  during  the  day  and  seeing  that  they  did 
not  run  away  with  any  of  my  property  during 
the  night,  became  after  the  first  week  a  terrible 
strain  u[)on  my  nerves. 

The  canoe  was  a  very  large  and  heavy  one, 
and  as  the  tree-trunk  from  which  it  was  formed 
had  been  chosen  rather  for  its  size  than  for  its 
straightness,  the  thing  was  shaped  somewhat  like 
a  bow. 

'I'o  steer  this  crazy  concern,  keep  an  eye  on 
the  haling  arrangements,  and  at   the  same  time 

Vol.  .vi.-14. 


incite  my  lazy  crew  to  the  maximum  of  en- 
deavour took  me  all  my  time  ;  and  I  very  soon 
became  altogether  too  jaded  and  nerve-harassed 
to  take  advantage  of  the  splendid  opportunities 
which  offered  themselves  of  bagging  s-ome  of 
the  innumerable  hippopotami  and  crocodiles 
which  surrounded  the  boat,  to  say  nothing  of 
the  various  kinds  of  game  which,  as  we  pro- 
ceeded farther  up  stream,  abounded  upon  the 
banks  at  night  time. 

Our  progress  was  necessarily  extremely  slow, 
and  after  about  ten  days  of  it  I  made  up  my 
mind  to  stop  at  the  very  first  village  we  should 
come  to  after  entering  the  Shire  River,  and  there 
await  the  arrival  of  the  next  river  steamer  which 
might  chance  to  come  along.  1  had  always 
hitherto  disliked  these  little  boats,  and  had 
looked  upon  their  small  and  stuffy  sleeping 
accommodation  as  something  not  to  be  tolerated 
whilst  it  was  m  my  power  to  breathe  the  free 
and  invigorating — though  malaria-impregnated 
— air  of  the  river-bank.  But  now,  tired  out  as 
I  was  with  my  long-sustained  efforts  to  keep  my 
crew  at  work,  and  low-spirited  and  despondent 
from  want  of  food  and  sleep,  I  looked  forward 
with  longing  to  once  more  enjoying  a  sound 
night's  rest,  untroubled  by  fears  as  to  the 
safety  of  my  guns  and  other  property,  and  to 
getting  outside  a  good  square  meal  in  the 
company  of  fellow  white  men,  instead  of  having 
to  content  myself  with  some  handfuls  of  wet 
native  mealie  flour,  my  stock  of  European  [pro- 
visions having  barely  sufficed  me  three  days. 
Moreover,  the  additions  I  had  anticipated  in 
the  sha[)e  of  guinea-fowl  and  water-buck  I  had 
been  unable  to  go  in  quest  of,  for  the  moment  I 
turned  my  back  I  knew  my  rascally  crew  would 
undoubtedly  make  off  with  whatever  they  could 
lay  their  hands  on. 

My  practice  was  to  moor  the  canoe  to  a 
convenient  tree  every  evening  as  soon  as  it 
grew  dusk.  I  then  had  a  small  tent  pitched,  in 
which  I  collected  all  my  belongings.  Outside 
this  I  kept  a  large  fire  burning,  and  at  intervals 


loS 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


during  the  night  I  would  reluctantly  leave  my 
warm  rugs  within  the  tent  and  take  a  look 
round,  in  order  to  see  that  my  precious  fol- 
lowers had  not  gone  off  with  the  canoe,  or  in 
any  other  way  taken  advantage  of  my  presumed 
somnolence. 

That  these  precautions  were  by  no  means 
unnecessary  I  proved  upon  several  occasions. 

I  once  interrupted  a  very  pretty  scheme, 
having  for  its  object  the  seizure  of  my  rifle 
whilst  I  slept  and  the  "  accidental "  discharge 
of  its  contents  into  my  unconscious  head  ! 

This  little  plot  had  followed  upon  a  day  of 
more  than  ordinary  trials.  We  had  managed  to 
get  the  canoe  stranded  upon  a  sand-bank,  and 
my  crew  had  resolutely  refused  to  do  anything 
to  get  her  once  more  adrift.  They  endeavoured 
to  persuade  me  to  permit  them  to  carry  my 
goods  ashore,  saying  that 
they  knew  of  an  easy  path 
tlirough  the  forest  which 
would  soon  bring  us  to  a 
large  village  where  I  would 
shortly  be  able  to  get 
"  estema  "  (a  European 
boat).  They  had  already 
gathered  that  I  had  had 
enough  of  them  and  their 
canoe. 

I  had  no  difficulty,  how- 
ever, in  seeing  through  this 
piece  of  rascality. 

Confined  within  the 
limited  space  of  the  canoe, 
and  immediately  under  my 
eyes,  it  was  impossible  for 
them  to  get  safely  away  with 
any  of  my  guns  or  baggage. 
But  once  in  the  thick  under- 
growth of  the  forest  it  would 
be  perfectly  easy  for  them 
to  disappear  with  my 
belongings,  either  singly  or 
all  together,  and  then  to  meet  again  on  the 
banks  of  the  river,  return  to  their  canoe,  and 
pursue  their  journey  quietly  and  comfortably  in 
the  full  enjoyment  of  my  possessions. 

It  may  be  well  to  mention  here  that  these 
scoundrels  were  not  Chinde  negroes,  but  had 
come  down  the  Zambesi  from  the  Portuguese 
settlement  at  Tete  ;  they  were,  consequently, 
very  much  more  independent  and  insolent  than 
any  natives  accustomed  to  British  authority 
would  venture  to  be. 

In  the  present  case  I  pointed  out  to  them 
that  I  was  perfectly  certain  that  the  stranding  of 
our  canoe  had  not  been  accidental ;  and  I  added 
that  I  was  quite  determined  that  they  should  by 
their   unaided   efforts  get  her  once  more  adrift. 


THE   AUTHOR, 

From  a  Photo,  by  G. 


Neither  my  native  servant  (a  boy  of  fifteen)  nor 
myself  would  in  any  way  assist  them. 

I  was  inwardly  boiling  with  rage,  for  a  long 
series  of  similar  mishaps  and  annoyances  had 
completely  ruined  my  usually  e(]uable  temper, 
but  outwardly  I  was  calm  and  collected,  and  I 
remember  that  it  was  in  almost  a  mild  tone  that 
I  remarked  quite  casually  that,  unless  they  im- 
mediately set  to  work,  1  should  proceed  forth- 
with to  shoot  them  one  after  the  other,  com- 
mencing with  the  headman,  taking  one  man  for 
each  minute  that  the  canoe  remained  upon  the 
sand-bank. 

They  looked  at  me  with  incredulous,  though 
uneasy,  expressions  as  I  slowly  drew  my  loaded 
rovolver  from  its  holster  with  my  left  hand. 
The  headman  in  particular,  being  the  first  on 
my   list,    seemed    especially    disquieted.       But, 

essaying  a  little  bravado, 
he  pointed  jeeringly  at  my 
pistol,  saying,  in  the  tone 
of  a  man  who  is  not  to  be 
frightened  by  such  child's 
l)lay,  "  It's  no  good  ;  no 
loaded  ;  no  fire.  Me  no 
fear,  like  slave  boy  here." 
And  he  gave  a  scornful 
kick  to  my  native  servant, 
who  was  sitting  at  my  feet 
in  the  canoe.  He,  being 
acquainted  with  the  ways 
of  Englishmen,  had  always 
rendered  me  such  unques- 
tioning obedience  as  to 
earn  for  himself  the  title  of 
"slave  boy"  from  his 
fellow-blacks  in  the  boat. 

This  piece  of  insolence, 
offered  me  thus  openly  in 
the  presence  of  all  these 
natives,  so  angered  me  that, 
forgetting  the  loaded  re- 
volver in  my  left  hand,  I 
let  drive  with  my  right  fist  fairly  between  the 
man's  eyes  ;  and  though  for  the  sake  of  one's 
knuckles  it  is,  as  a  rule,  an  unwise  thing  to 
strike  a  negro  in  the  face,  yet  such  force  did  I 
put  into  my  blow  that  the  man  almost  spun  in 
the  air  as  he  hurtled  backwards  into  the  river. 
To  add  to  the  efificacy  of  my  anger,  the  revolver 
which  I  held  in  my  left  hand,  the  trigger  com- 
pressed in  my  furious  grip,  discharged  its  "450 
bullet  point-blank  into  the  man's  heart  as  he 
struck  the  water  ! 

The  discharge  of  the  pistol  had  been  entirely 
accidental,  but  my  cowardly  crew  took  it  as  the 
first  step  in  carrying  out  my  threat  to  treat  the 
lot  of  them  in  a  similar  manner,  and  with  one 
accord    they    snatched    up    their    paddles    and 


» 


MR.    I.OVAT    FRASER. 

y.  Jones  &'  Co.,  Surbiton 


A  chaptI':k  of   mishai>s. 


109 


thrust  frantically  un  all  sides  in  a  desperate  effort 
to  get  the  canoe  once  more  afloat. 

Under  the  strain  thus  suddenly  put  u[)on  it 
the  heavy  boat  slid  instantly  from  the  sand-bank, 
and  its  impetus  carried  it  a  considerable  distance 
out  into  the  stream.  Xot  one  of  the  headman's 
companions  made  the  slightest  attempt  to  rescue 
the  corpse  ;  and  before  I  could  stay  the  way  on 
the  boat  there  was  an  ominous  swirl  in  the 
water  behind  us,  which  told  that  the  crocodiles 
had  scented  their  prey. 

The  whole  tragedy  had  happened  like  a  flash, 
but  the  impression  made  upon  my  men  was 
most  salutary.  Instead  of  the  laughter  and 
noise  with  which  they  usually  accompanied  their 
paddling  operations,  my  crew  now  exchanged 
sullen  looks  and  whispers  ;  but  their  energy 
increased  amazingly,  and  by  nightfall  we  had 
put  a  considerable  distance  between  ourselves 
and  the  fateful  sand-bank. 

It  was  during  the  night  which  followed  that  I 
overheard  the  scheme  I  have  previously  referred 
to,  and  interrupted  the  men  in  the  very  act  of 
discussing  the  feasibility  of  murdering  me  whilst 
I  slept  and  decamping  with  my  goods. 

I  decided  immediately  that  my  best  course 
was  to  show  a  bold  front — and,  indeed,  I  can 
honestly  say  that  I  felt  no  alarm  whatever,  but 
merely  contempt  and  loathing  for  the  cowardly 
scoundrels  who,  though  seven  to  one,  were  yet 
unable  to  bring  themselves  to  attack  me  except 
when  asleep  and  unprepared  for  their  onslaught. 

Full  of  disgust  I  strode  out  of  my  tent  and 
into  the  centre  of  the  whispering  group  around 
the  fire.  Silence  fell  upon  the  party  directly  I 
appeared. 

A  forward  drive  from  the  toe  of  my  heavy 
shooting-boot  shifted  Juma — one  of  the  most 
insolent  of  their  number — from  his  position 
upon  a  large  log  in  front  of  the  blaze.  Seating 
myself  upon  it,  I  made  them  all  stand  up  whilst 
I  harangued  them. 

I  had  long  perceived  that  I  must  abandon  all 
idea  of  the  pleasant  shooting  trip  which  I  had 
planned  out  for  myself  when  I  first  resolved  to 
essay  the  passage  of  the  river  in  a  native  canoe  ; 
and  my  chief  object  now  was  to  get  myself  and 
my  belongings  as  quickly  as  I  possibly  could  to 
the  habitation  of  some  white  settler  near  the 
banks  of  the  stream,  where  I  might  await  at  my 
leisure  the  passing  of  the  next  river  steamer.  I  had 
conclusively  proved  the  utter  futility  of  kindness 
or  torbearance  towards  my  rascally  crew,  and  I 
was  now  fully  determined  to  work  them  hard,  in 
order  to  reach  some  white  settlement  within  the 
next  few  days. 

This  I  proceeded  to  explain  very  forcibly. 

I  pointed  out  that,  as  I  was  obliged  to  keep 
awake  all   night   owing  to   their  dishonesty  antl 


treachery,  I  was  certainly  not  going  to  allow 
them  to  enjoy  the  night's  rest  which  their  plutting 
and  scheming  prevented  me  from  obtaining ; 
and  since  I  preferred  to  keep  moving  rather 
than  spend  the  night  doing  nothing  in  my  tent, 
I  meant  in  future  to  keep  them  at  work  all  day 
and  all  night  until  we  arrived  at  the  nearest 
white  man's  dwelling. 

My  words  were  received  with  many  guttural 
interjections  ;  when  I  had  finished  there  was  a 
burst  of  protesting  exclamations,  mingled  with 
cries  of  "  Koofa  !  koofa  I  mfumu  "  ("  We  shall 
die!  we  shall  die!  O  chief");  "  Msungo 
mtumbi  kutali  "  ("The  white  man's  dwelling  is 
far  away  ').  But  my  patience  was  completely 
exhausted,  and  by  a  free  use  of  my  shooting- 
boots  I  soon  had  my  tent  struck  and  my 
baggage  collected  in  the  boat.  In  a  few 
minutes  we  were  once  more  pursuing  our 
tedious  journey  up  stream. 

It  was  about  two  o'clock  in  the  morning  ;  and 
though  there  was  a  full  moon,  yet  the  river  was 
shrouded  in  a  thin,  cold  mist,  which  seemed  to 
penetrate  to  the  marrow  of  my  bones,  and  must 
have  caused  no  little  discomfort  to  the  scantily- 
clad  blacks. 

Our  progress  was  naturally  extremely  slow. 
We  had  to  keep  close  in  to  the  bank,  and  were 
constantly  coming  into  collision  with  submerged 
tree  trunks  and  little  hillocks  of  mud  and  sand 
which  just  rose  above  the  surface  of  the  water. 

From  the  dark  forest  alongside  arose  strange 
cries  and  mysterious  noises,  as  the  canoe  toiled 
on  its  way,  disturbing  in  their  nightly  prowlings 
great  numbers  of  hyenas  and  jackals,  whilst  an 
occasional  deep-toned  growl  and  the  crashing  of 
some  heavy  body  through  the  undergrowth 
showed  that  some  larger  beast  had  been  inter- 
rupted in  its  nocturnal  drinking. 

All  around  us  from  the  silvery  surface  of  the 
water,  glittering  dimly  through  the  mist  in  the 
moonlight,  there  came  a  constant  succession  of 
curious  hollow  grunts,  resembling  nothing  so 
much  as  the  protests  of  a  big  hog,  as  the  hippo- 
potami —  which  abound  in  this  part  of  the 
Zambesi  raised  their  massive  heads  in  mid- 
stream to  have  a  look  at  us. 

There  was  little  to  fear  from  these  great 
beasts  unless  we  should  chance  to  run  into  one, 
in  which  case  our  canoe  would  inevitably  be 
upset  and  we  should  go  to  feed  the  crocodiles. 

I  felt,  however,  quite  indifferent  to  this  con- 
tingency, 'i'he  trouble  and  worry  which  I  had 
undergone  during  the  last  few  days  had  brought 
on  an  attack  of  my  old  enemy,  malarial  fever  ; 
and  although  my  temperature  had  not,  so  far, 
risen  much  above  the  normal,  yet  I  felt  savage 
and  irritable  to  a  degree  which  would  have  been 
impossible  had  I  been  in  my  usual  health 


no 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


When  morning  dawned  we  could  scarcely 
have  advanced  more  than  two  miles  from  our 
last  stopping-place,  and  my  crew  were  hungry, 
tired,  and  shivering,  but  I  kept  them  hard  at 
work  paddling  and  pushing,  lugging  the  canoe 
over  shallows  and  baling  continually,  as  the 
water  flowed  steadily  in  through  the  leak  in  her 
keel. 

The  heat  became  intense  as  the  sun  rose  high 
in  the  heavens,  but  I  felt  no  desire  either  for 
shade  or  for  food,  though  my  crew  kept  furtively 
cramming  into  their  mouths  great  handfuls  of 
moist  mealie  flour  as  they  worked  at  the  paddles. 
I  must  have  become  to  some  extent  delirious, 
for  I  imagined  myself  lying  on  the  lounge  in  the 
smoking-room  of  the  Kaiser,  of  the  (ierman  East 
African  Steamship  Company  (which  had  brought 
me  from  Delagoa  Bay  to  Chinde),  whilst  some- 
one at  my  elbow  kept  pouring  out  and  drinking 
off  glass  after  glass  of  iced  soda-water. 

The  sudden  cessation  of  this  gastronomical 
feat  brought  me  abruptly  to  my  senses  ;  and  I 
found  that  the  monotonous  lapping  of  the  water 
against  our  gunwale  had  stopped.  A  glance 
siiowed  me  we  were  once  more  firmly  wedged 
u[)on  a  sand-bank,  almost  in  mid-stream. 


A  hasty  glance  at  her  keel  soon  disclosed  the 
reason. 

A  sharp-pointed  bit  of  timber  lying  just  below 
the  surface  (in  Africa  many  species  of  wood 
sink  in  water)  had  gone  clean  through  her 
bottom  ;  and  as  we  had  no  means  whatever  of 
patching  up  the  hole  it  was  evident  that  once 
we  succeeded  in  shifting  the  canoe  from  the 
sand-bank  she  would  certainly  fill  and  sink 
inmiediately. 

Here,  then,  was  the  finish  of  my  river  trip. 
I  could  have  gnashed  my  teeth  with  rage,  as  I 
compelled  the  jabbering  rascals,  whose  careless- 
ness had  brought  about  this  misfortune,  to 
gather  up  my  belongings  from  the  bottom  of 
the  boat  and  convey  them  to  a  place  of  safety 
upon  the  bank. 

The  Zambesi,  though  very  broad,  is  in  most 
places  quite  shallow,  and  the  water  scarcely  rose 
above  my  waist  as,  rifle  in  hand,  I  waded 
towards  the  shore. 

The  great  danger,  of  course,  was  from  the 
crocodiles,  but  I  made  the  men  keep  close 
together  and  shout  at  the  top  of  their  voices, 
and  making  as  much  noise  as  possible  we 
reached  the  bank  in  safety. 


MV    CNEW    WKKIO     IIAHI)     Af    WllK'K    KNDKA\'OU  NlNi; 
•I()    DlSl OlKil-:    OUR    CHAI'T." 


My  crew,  who  had  evidently  been 
quite  imaware  of  my  temporary  un- 
consciousness— for  I  had  been  reclining  in  a 
sitting  posture — were  hard  at  work  endeavouring 
to  dislodge  our  craft ;  but  with  all  their  efforts, 
which  I  saw  were  genuine  enough,  the  boat 
refused  to  budge  a  single  inch. 


The    sun    vv-as    already    setting,    and    in 

another    quarter   of  an    hour    it   would    be 

quite  dark;  so,  as  it  was  impossible  to  con- 

Iniue  our  journey  on  foot  through  the  forest 

at  night  time,   I  set  my  crew  to  work  to  clear 

a  s[iace  amongst  the  brushwood  and  set  uj)  my 

tent. 

I  had  at  first  suspected  that  this  affair  might 
have    been    deliberately    planned,    but    the    be- 


A    CHAPTER    OF    MISHAPS. 


nil 


haviour  of  the  men  soon  convinced  nie  of  the 
contrary.  They  exhibited  every  sign  of  the 
most  intense  nervousness,  and  after  a  whispered 
discussion  approached  me  with  Juma  at  their 
head.  I  was  in  no  mood,  however,  for  a 
palaver,  and  Juma's  opening  words  merely 
served  to  increase  the  irritability  from  which 
I  was  suffering.  "  Funa  tieni,  mfumu,"  he 
commenced,  apprehensively,  "  iei  kalipansi 
kuno "  ("We  wish  to  go  on,  O  chief;  not  to 
sit  down  here  "). 

"You  wish  to  go  on,  do  you?  Then  go  on 
with  your  work,  you  scoundrel,"  I  shouted  ;  "  you 
shall  do  what  /  wish  now  !  " 

"  lei,  msungo  "  ("  No,  white  man  ''),  chimed  in 
the  others  ;  "  no  good  here  ;  many  devils  come  ; 
we  all  die  !  " 

This  direct  contradiction,  in  my  irritable  con 
dition,  enraged  me  beyond  measure,  and  I 
fetched  Juma  a  slap  on  the  side  of  his  head  with 
my  open  hand.  "  Die,  by  all  means,"  I  retorted, 
furiously,  "  but  you  shall  put  up  my  tent  first  in 
spite  of  the  de\  ils." 

The  fever  in  my  blood   had   rendered  me  by 
this  time  scarcely   responsible   for  my   actions ; 
and  there  was  that  in  my  face  which 
completely  cowed   and    subdued   the 
insubordinate  men  before  me. 

They  lost  no  further  time  in  putting 
up  my  tent ;  my  baggage  was  soon 
safely  stored  inside,  and  a  big  supply 
of  dry  brushwood  piled  near  the 
entrance. 

Tired  out,  niyhead  aching  horribly, 
and  too  feverish  to  desire  any  food,  I 
made  fast  the  flap  at  the  doorway, 
and  then  threw  myself  down  on  my 
rugs  with  my  loaded  rifle  by  my  side 
and  my  revolver  under  my  pillow. 

Of  the  night  which  followed  I  can- 
not even  now  —  many  thousands  of 
miles  from  that  accursed  spot  —  recall 
the  events  without  a  shudder.  I  had 
not  lain  many  minutes  before  the 
swarms  of  mosquitoes  which  com- 
menced to  throng  into  the  tent  caused 
me  perfectly  intolerable  suffering.  I 
fell  at  the  moment  that  I  could  have 
welcomed  death. 

I  scarcely  like  to  say  what  might 
have  occurred  in  my  delirium,  when 
suddenly  something  thin,  and  stiff, 
and  hooked  touched  my  burning  face. 

It  felt  like  a  piece  of  wire,  but 
hairy,  and  with  sharp  claws  attached  ; 
and  even  in  my  delirious  condition  I 
knew  at  once  to  what  it  belonged. 
As  I  sprang  to  my  feet  I  caught  a 
glimpse  of  the  horrible  thing— a  huge 


and  bloated  tarantula  —  the  largest  and  most 
ferocious  of  the  venomous  spiders. 

A  bite  from  this  monster  might  easily,  in  my 
feverish  state,  have  caused  death,  and  I  put 
all  my  remaining  energy  into  the  blows  which  I 
aimed  at  the  loathsome  thing  with  the  butt-end 
of  my  rifle  as  it  sped  about  the  tent.  Twice  I 
succeeded  in  breaking  one  of  the  creature's  legs, 
but  its  activity  was  incredible,  and,  so  far  from 
avoiding  me,  it  all  but  managed  to  fasten  its 
powerful  mandibles  in  my  hand  by  suddenly 
darting  up  the  stock  of  the  rifle  as  I  struck  the 
ground  beside  it.  I  dropped  my  weapon  on  the 
instant,  and,  in  falling,  it  knocked  over  the 
little  candle-lamp  which  I  had  kept  burning  in 
the  tent,  and  inmiediately  I  was  plunged  in 
darkness.  My  feelings  during  that  moment 
were  not  enviable — expecting  each  moment  to 
feel  the  creature's  deadly  fangs  fastened  into 
me.  But  I  somehow  managed  to  undo  the  flap 
of  my  tent,  and  was  soon  panting  outside  in 
the  firelight. 

Mv  men  were  all  broad  awake  and  sitting  as 


I    DKOi'l'KU    MV    WKAfON    ON    THE    INSTANT. 


I  I  2 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    iMAGAZINE. 


■close  to  my  tent  as  possible  ;  but,  contrary  to 
the  habit  of  the  African  ne.sroes,  they  uttered 
no  exclamation  of  surprise  at  my  sudden  hasty 
appearance. 

They  must  have  distinctly  heard  the  scuffling 
which  had  taken  place  inside,  but  they  asked 
no  questions,  whilst  in  obedience  to  my  request 
they  removed  every  article  from  the  tent  and 
thoroughly  shook  out  my  pillow  and  blankets. 
There  was  no  sign  of  my  late  enemy,  and  but 
for  the  two  hairy  legs  which  still  adhered  to  the 
stock  of  my  rifle  I  might  have  supposed  him  to 
be  a  figment  of  my  fevered  imagination. 

'I'here  was  nothing  to  be  gained  by  staying 
<nic  in  the  open  air,  except  a  probably  fatal 
termination  to  my  attack  of  malaria,  so  having 
had  my  baggage  stowed  inside  again  I  went 
back  to  my  rugs  and  my  insect  assailants. 

I  turned  over  in  my  mind  the  inexplical)le 
conduct  of  my  men,  whose  appearance  and 
behaviour  indicated  a  condition  of  nerves  which 
could  only  be  the  result  of  some  extraordinary 
and  utterly  overmastering  terror.  Juma's  coun- 
tenance in  particular  had  altered  from  its 
customary  blackish  brown  to  an  unearthly  kind 
of  grey,  and  the  remainder  of  my  crew  were  in 
very  similar  plight. 

I  was  just  recalling  to  my  memory  the  curious 
-eagerness  which  they  had  evinced  that  evening 
ito  proceed  on  our 
journey  —  an  eager- 
ness the  more  re- 
markable as  t h e \- 
were  u  n  d  o  u  b  t  e  d  1  \- 
•considerably  fatigued 
.after  their  long  day's 
labour  and  the  loss 
•of  the  preceding 
night's  rest  —  when 
my  reflections  were 
suddenly  put  an  end 
to  by  a  hollow,  deep- 
toned  growl,  which 
seemed  to  come  from 
somewhere  just  out- 
side the  tent.  The 
commotion  whicli 
immediately  resulted 
amongst  my  men 
showed  me  that  they 
also  heard  and  under- 
stood the  significance 
of  the  sound.  Snatch- 
ing u{)  my  loaded 
rifle  I  hurried  out. 

The  night  was 
pitch-dark,  the  moon 
being  obscured  by 
thick  banks  of  cloud. 


but  the  fire  was  burnir.g  up  brightly,  and  by  its 
light  I  was  able  to  see  a  few  yards  into  the  thick 
forest  which  surrounded  us.  It  would  have  been 
madness  to  cjuit  for  an  instant  that  circle  of  light, 
and  with  the  men  huddled  together  behind  me  I 
stood  for  some  time  peering  into  the  dense  gloom. 
Far  away  in  the  forest  I  could  hear  the  sharp 
barking  of  a  jackal  and  then  the  horrible,  blood- 
curdling cry  of  a  hyena.  But  the  soul-stirring 
growl  which  had  disturbed  me  was  not  repeated; 
and  presently  some  distance  away  on  my  right  a 
deep-throated,  booming  roar  seemed  to  indicate 
that  the  enemy  had  taken  himself  off  in  search 
of  a  meal  less  on  the  alert  than  myself. 

Once  'more  I  re-entered  my  tent  ;  but  my 
nerves  were  now  raw  and  quivering,  and  the 
sight  of  a  colony  of  white  ants  streaming  under 
the  tent  cover  seemed  to  be  the  last  straw. 
These  pests  appear  to  nourish  themselves 
solely  upon  travellers'  baggnge — what  they  eat 
when  there  are  no  travellers  about  I  cannot 
imagine. 

I  sat  down  disconsolately  upon  one  of  my 
boxes,  and  with  my  elbows  on  my  knees 
supported  my  aching  head  between  my  hands. 

I  had  been  in  this  position  about  five 
minutes  when  a  sudden  gust  blew  open  the  flap 
of  my  tent  and  sent  a  swirl  of  dust  and  dead 
leaves  inside.     The  wind  was  rising  rapidly,  and 


'-w 


^T 


TH1-'    WIND    lll.KW    A    I'Rin-ECT    IllRNrCANE. 


A    CHAl'lKR    Oi-     MISHAPS. 


I  I 


in  a  short   time   the   air   became  so  thick   with 
dust  that  I  could  hardly  breathe. 

In  these  latitudes  a  tempest  will  frequently 
arise  apparently  from  nowhere,  and  after  raging 
in  ever-increasing  fury  for  an  hour  or  so  will  dis- 
appear as  suddenly  as  it  came. 

In  the  present  case  the  wind  blew  a  perfect 
hurricane.  Half  choked  with  dust,  I  clutched 
wildly  at  my  rugs  and  pillow,  but  the  latter  was 
torn  out  of  my  hand  and,  with  the  flap  of  the 
tent,  vanished  for  ever  in  the  river  behind  me. 

Nearly  blinded,  I  got  outside  just  as  the  tent 
itself  gave  way  ;  but  I  managed  to  grip  the  guy 
ropes,  and  stirring  u[)  my  crew — who  were  all 
lying  flat  upon  their  faces  —  we  held  on  for  all 
we  were  worth  to  the  mass  of  fluttering  canvas. 

It  seemed  to  me  that  the  cyclone  would 
never  cease. 
Scarcely  able  to 
breathe,  my 
eyes  t  i  g  h  1 1  }■ 
closed,  and  my 
fever  -  racked 
head  feeling  as 
though  about  to 
burst,  I  was  just 
able  to  say  to 
myself,  "  Now  I 
have  touched 
bed  rock ;  my 
troubles  can't 
possibly  get  any 
worse  than  this," 
when  suddenly 
my  unspoken 
thoughts  were 
proved  to  be 
premature.  A 
groan  from  the 
man  beside  me 
made  me  open 
my  eyes,  and  I 
saw  that  he  lay 
crushed  to  the 
earth  beneath  a 
huge  bough  torn 
by  the  fury  ot 
the  blast  from 
a  neighbouring 
tree. 

It  may  give 
some  idea  of  the 
horrible  crash- 
ing and  rending  going  on  in  the  forest  around 
us  when  I  say  thcit  I  had  been  quite  unaware  of 
the  fall  of  this  great  mass  close  beside  me. 

The  man's  back  was  broken,  but  it  was  un- 
fortunately out  of  my  power  to  render  him  any 
assistance,  and  in  a  few  minutes  he  was  dead. 

Vol.  xi.— 15. 


It  had  become  impossible  any  longer  to  hold 
on  to  the  tent,  which  in  another  moment  would 
have  dragged  the  whole  lot  of  us  into  the  river, 
and  the  next  gust  tore  it  from  our  hands. 

lUit  now  the  greatest  danger  of  all  was  about 
to  threaten.  Two  hundred  yards  ahead  of  me, 
as  I  crouched  on  the  ground  with  my  back  to 
the  river,  I  became  aware  of  a  strange,  ruddy 
light  dancing  amongst  the  trees.  It  grew  and 
grew  in  the  strong  wind  with  frightful  rapidity, 
and  with  absolute  despair  in  my  heart  I  saw 
that  the  forest  was  on  tire  and  that  the  flames, 
driven  by  the  tempest,  were  licking  up  the  trees 
with  appalling  speed.  The  origin  of  such  a 
monstrous  blaze  so  far  from  any  human  habi- 
tation was  to  me  utterly  inexplicable  and  its 
rapid  development  simply  amazing. 


IHK    KLAMES    WEKI';    l.k.KlMi    UP    THE    IKEES    WITH    Ai'l'ALLIN'G    SI'EED. 


Behind  us  lay  the  black  and  cruel  river,  teem- 
ing with  crocodiles,  effectually  preventing  any 
chance  of  escape  in  that  direction.  On  either 
side  spread  the  thick  jungle  and  twisted  under- 
growth, rendering  progress  even  in  broad  day- 
light   a    slow   and    arduous    business,  and    by 


114 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


night  practically  impossible.  My  prospects 
looked  poor  indeed  ;  but  with  the  fever  in  my 
brain,  and  my  fatigued  and  aching  body,  I  felt 
that  I  did  not  greatly  care.  I  lay  there  in  a 
kind  of  stupor  and  watched  the  fast  approaching 
flames  devouring  in  their  terrible  greed  the 
tallest  trees  like  so  many  fagots. 

The  air  was  full  of  hurtling  branches  and 
whirling  leaves,  and  volumes  of  thick  black 
smoke  rushed  by  on  the  wings  of  the  wind. 

'J  he  night  had  now  become  as  bright  as  day  ; 
and  the  crimson  glare  of  the  flames  was  re- 
flected from  the 
dense  clouds 
which  shrouded 
the  sky  over- 
head. To  my 
fevered  fancy 
the  noise  and 
din  of  the  tem- 
pest, thC;  falling 
branches  and 


swirlmg    leaves, 


THE  HUT  AT  WHICH  THE  AUTHOR  ARRI 

From  a]  akter  his   i 


tl'^e  hurrying 
c  o  1  u^  m  n  s  of 
smoke  and 
steam  glowing 
red  in  the  light 
of  the  fierce- 
blazing  trees, 
the  crouching 
black  forms 
around  me,  and 
the  distorted 
face  of  the  dead 
man,  all  seemed  to  form  jxirt  of  some  awful  and 
terrifymg  nightmare. 

I  think  that  for  a  sirigle  instant  I  must  have 
lost  consciousness,  for  I  have  a  vague  idea 
of  some  hideous  and  indescribable  /hiii^:;  or 
thi/i(^s  rushing  hither  and  thither  around  and 
over  me. 

T>ut  as  I  slowly  came  to  myself  one  great  and 
incredible  fact  quickly  impressed  itself  upon  me. 
The  wind  had  ceased  as  suddenly  as  it  had 
begun,  and  m  its  stead  the  rain  was  falling 
in  perfect  torrents.  The  force  and  energy  of 
tropical  rain  are  very  generally  known,  but  the 
deluge  which  followed  exceeded  in  copiousness 
any  rain  1  have  ever  experienced. 

To  say  that  it  descended  in  L)uckelfuls  would 
be  very  much  understating  the  case.  It  came 
down  in  a  regular  Niagara,  and  beneath  this 
immense  avalanche  of  water  the  flames  (]uickly 
diminished  and  shrank  away,  the  clouds  of 
smoke  were  replaced  by  volumes  of  white 
steam,  and   in   a  short   time,  save  for  the  swish 


of  the  rain  amongst  the  trees,  quiet  was  once 
more  restored  where  but  lately  there  had  been 
pandemonium.  liut  all  this  had  been  too 
much  for  my  fever-weakened  brain. 

I  fainted  dead  away,  and  did  not  return  to 
consciousness  until  the  sun  was  already  high  in 
the  heavens  and  the  air  had  become  thick  with 
steam  from  the  fast  drying  earth. 

I  found  that  the  body  of  the  dead  man  slill 
lay  at  my  side.  In  front  of  me,  seated  on  their 
haunches,  with  my  belongings  neatly  arranged 
beside  them,  were  three  of  my  seven  followers. 

Of  the  other 
four,  one  lay 
(lead  beneath 
ihe  tree  -  trunk, 
but  three  of  my 
boat  m  e  n  and 
my  native  ser- 
vant had  com- 
p  1  e  t  e  1  )■  d  i  s  - 
appeared. 

It  was  in  \ain 
that  I  t]  u  e  s  - 
lioned    the    re- 


mam  mg  men  ; 
they  either  could 
or  would  say 
nothing.  So  1 
ordered  them  to 
march  in  front 
of  me  with  my 
baggage,    and 

VED   WITH    HIS    THREE    REMAINING    BOAIMEN  •    i 

ERRIBLE   JOURNEY.  [P/loto.  ^^'^    SCt    OUt    WltH- 

o  u  t  f  u  r  t  h  c  r 
delay  in  .search  of  a  white  settlement. 

I  need  not  describe  the  ensuing  two  days,  but 
on  the  evening  of  the  second  day  we  came 
across  the  hut  of  an  e.x-employe  of  the  African 
Lakes  Corporation.  From  him  1  learned  that 
we  had  long  passed  the  mouth  of  the  Shire 
River  where  it  flows  into  the  Zambesi,  and  had 
proceeded  some  considerable  distance  beyond 
it  alongside  the  banks  of  the  latter  stream.  M\- 
boatmen  must  have  overshot  our  mark  during 
my  period  of  unconsciousness  in  the  canoe  the 
day  we  got  wrecked  on  the  sand-bank  ;  and  my 
host  was  of  opinion  that  had  it  not  been  for  that 
accident  my  crew  had  intended  to  lun  me 
ashore  near  .some  village  of  their  own,  and  there 
to  rob  and  murder  me  whilst  I  slept. 

This  view  seemed  the  more  probable  as  my 
three  remaining  followers  vanished  during  the 
first  night  I  sj)ent  at  my  new  friend's  house,  and 
I  never  saw  or  heard  of  any  of  them  again.  And 
so  ended  my  pleasant  little  shooting  trip  and  its 
chajitcr  of  mishaps. 


ny  EAPERiEiNcns  at  kano, 

And  What   I   5aw  on   the  Way. 

Bv  THE  Rev.  A.  E.   Rkhardsox. 

Until  the  British  troops  under  Colonel  Morland  planted  the  Union  Jack  on  the  walls  of  Kano  in 
February,  only  three  living  Englishmen  had  visited  this  mysterious  Mohammedan  city  during  recent 
years.  Three  years  ago  Mr.  Richardson  accompanied  Bishop  Tugwells  mission  to  the  "Manchester 
of  the  Soudan,"  and  he  here  recounts  his  experiences  during  that  memorable  visit.  The  excellent 
photos,  illustrating  the  article  were  tak;a  by  the  Rev.  J.  C.  Dudley  Ryder. 


I^P 


HE  question  has  often  been  asked, 
'■  What  is  there  to  be  found  in  the 
interior  of  the  Dark  Continent  ? 
Wliat  should  we  discover  if  we 
{penetrated  tlie  great  forest  and 
journeyed  far  from  its  surf-beat  shore?" 

If  you  are  fortunate  enough  to  possess  one 
of  those  ancient  "globes  "  from  which  our  fore- 
fathers learnt  "geography  "  (when  not  engaged 
in  the  exciting  pastime  of  sj)inning  it  round 
upon  its  axis)  hasten  to  look  at  the  Niger  district. 
What  is  now  so  familiar  as  Upper  Nigeria  is 
there  labelled  with  precision  "  Desert — occupied 
chiefly  by  wild  elephants."  \\'hat  a  vast  mistake  ! 
The  great  city  of  Kano  has  existed  at  least  a 
thousand  years — hidden  away  in  the  heart  of 
Africa,  unheard  of  and  unknown. 

Very  few  white  people  had  ever  set  foot 
inside  the  place  until  our  black  troops,  under 
Colonel  Morland,  captured  it  on  Eebruary  3rd 
of  this  year.  And  what  is  found  there?  Are 
the  Hausas  cannibals?  Do  they  revel  in  human 
sacrifices?  And  does  their  morning  dress  con 
sist  merely  of  bows  and  arrows  ?     Ear  from  it. 

The  country  lying  northward  beyond  the  great 
Niger  River  in  West  Africa  is  not  endless  forest 
peopled  by  pagan  or  pigmy  hiding  in  mountain 
cave  or  forest  den,  or  living  in  miserable  mud 
hovels.  It  is  occupied  by  the  mighty  Hausa 
nation  the  most  i)owerful  and  the  most  interest- 
ing of  any  race  in  the  continent  ^of  Africa. 
At  least  fifteen  million  people  inhabit  the 
Hausa  States — dwelling  in  vast  walled  cities, 
and  possessing  a  civilization  which  is  at  once 
the  astonishment  and  the  bewilderment  of  the 
world 

But,  ama/ed  at  its  existence  and  perplexed  at 
its  origin  as  we  well  may  be,  yet  this  marvellous 
civilization  exists,  raising  the  Hausa  head  and 
shoulders  above  all  the  other  six  hundred  tribes 


in  Africa.  Eor  the  power  of  this  people  does 
not  lie  in  its  mighty  walls,  nor  in  strength  of 
arm  alone.  The  Hausa  has  an  intellect  not  a 
whit  inferior  to  that  of  the  European.  He  is 
bright  and  witty,  cultured  and  courteous. 
Police  patrol  the  streets  of  his  cities  ;  schools 
are  dotted  here  and  there,  wherein  the  rising 
generation  is  taught  to  read  and  write  and  sew; 
and  herein  is  the  greatest  wonder  — the  Hausas 
possess  a  literature  and  are  able  to  read  and 
write.  What  other  native  race  throughout  the 
length  and  breadth  of  the  country  can  make  a 
like  boast  ? 

But  this  marvellous  land  is  not  a  paradise. 
It  has  for  centuries  been  darkened  by  the 
shadow  of  that  worst  of  all  evils — the  slave 
trade.  There  are  some  ten  million  slaves  in 
that  fertile  country.  The  imagination  can 
perhaps  fill  in  the  background  to  this  statement. 
Tvranny,  o[)pression,  and  crime  are  ]")roniinent. 
The  white  man,  however,  can  never  know  a 
tithe  of  the  horrors  that  are  involved  in  that  one 
word — slavery.  My  memory  reverts  to  stories 
of  heartless  cruelty  and  abuse  learnt  from  the 
lips  of  the  emancipated  victims  themselves. 

It  is  not  my  object,  however,  to  picture  the 
people,  but  rather  to  tell  of  a  journey  made 
three  years  ago  right  up  to  the  great  city  of 
Kano.  It  was  my  ])rivilege  with  three  other 
men  to  accompany  that  best  of  all  leaders,  the 
Right  Rev.  Bishop  Tugwell,  in  his  quest  to 
extend  the  spiritual  "sphere  of  influence"  of 
this  vast  diocese  on  the  ^Vest  Coast. 

We  purposed  to  reach  Kano  city,  establish  a 
mission  there  in  the  interests  of  the  Church 
Missionary  Society,  and  to  strive  to  dispel  the 
darkness  of  Mohammedanism  by  the  admission 
of  the  light  of  Christianit)-.  So  we  set  out  from 
Eagos  on  our  journey  of  six  hundred  miles. 
Our   only  weapons   were  a   rifle  and  a   double- 


ii6 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


things 


One  of  our  men, 
to  whom  we  graciously 
gave  an  emaciated  fowl 
— which  must  ha\e  died 
of  starvation  had  its  life 
been  spared  but  an  hour 
-roasted  it  and  ate  it, 
bones  and  all. 

I  have  seen  these  men 
scaling  city  walls  to  collect 
a  basketful  of  snails,  and 
have  passed  their  huts  at 
sundown  only  to  find  them 


cook in" 


and    eating 


this 


rvriCAI.    VOKUUA    VILLAGE,    SHOWINc;    I  HE    PAUnCIIIAL   t.N AN AKIES, 


barrelled  gun,  wherewith  we  added  to  the 
attractions  of  our  larder.  Our  goods  were 
packed  in  boxes  not  exceeding  seventy  pounds 
in  weight,  to  be  carried  upon  the  heads  of 
men  hired  for  the  purpose.  We  made  a 
start,  with  our  cheerful  carriers  as 
full  of  fun  as  a  pack  of  school- 
boys. The  coloured  man  —  like  his 
washed-white  brother  —  has  his 
faults,  but  he  is  a  delightful  com- 
panion. 

Our  road  lay  first  through  the 
Ijebu-odi  country  —  the  land  of 
those  splendid  fellows  who  so 
bravely  withstood  the  onslaught  of 
the  Fulah  conciuerors  and  limited 
their  progress.  Then  intoYoruba- 
land  we  came.  The  smaller  towns 
have  no  walls,  and  the  first  photo, 
shows  one  of  the  many  Yoruba 
villages  through  which  we  passed. 
It  was  not  scru[)ulously  clean. 
The  parochial  granaries,  standing 
on  billiard-table  legs  of  mud  and 
surmounted  by  thatch(;d  nightcaps, 
stood  in  the  centre  of  the  hamlet. 
A  smoky  fire  cooked  a  well-smoked 
meal,  whilst  a  score  of  vultures, 
with  confidence  inspired  by  their 
repulsiveness  and  unpalatability, 
kept  vigil  close  at  hand,  ready  to 
seize  any  op[)ortunity  of  securing 
food  by  means  fair  or  foul. 

Yet.  why  does  not  the  Yoruba 
devour  the  vulture?    He  eats  most 


luxury,  whilst  surrounded 
by  an  odour  better  ima- 
gined than  described. 
Moreover,  when  our  agent 
told  us  the  sad  news  of 
the  death  of  one  of  our 
horses,  he  hastened  to  add 
that  its  carcass  had  been 
sold  for  thirty-five  shillings 
to  provide  a  great  feast  ! 
On  one  occasion  a  messenger  of  ours  was 
robbed  of  his  horse  by  brigands.  The  Bishop 
sent  down  to  demand  restitution.  AVith  their 
accustomed  courtesy  the  robbers  returned  the 
horse's    tail,    with   regrets    that   they   could   not 


I  Plwto. 


A   YORUBA    WHO 

From  a\ 


CAME    ro    INSI'KCT    THE   CAM!' — HE    LI  r  1  LE    IHOLl^lIT    IHA  1     ME    WAS 
r.EING    I'HOTOGHAI'HEU  I  \PItoto. 


MV    EXPERIENCES    AT    KAXO. 


1 1 


refund  the  remainder  -  they 
had  c.heady  devoured  it.  Did 
they  suppose  tliat  the  wliite 
man  also  considered  horse-tail 
soap  a  luxury  ? 

Needless  tu  say,  we  were  a 
constant  source  of  amusement 
and  astonishment  to  the  natives. 
They  came  at  all  hours  of  thi' 
day  to  see  us — and  laugli  ! 

The  solemn  individual  in 
the  second  photograph  chose 
the  heat  of  the  day  to  inspect 
our  quarters.  And  it  is  hot 
at  noontide.  Not  a  breath  of 
air  —  not  a  vestige  of  living 
creature.  All  is  hushed.  No 
song  or  cry  of  bird  or  noise 
of  insect  breaks  the  death- 
like silence.  All  sleeps.  You 
can  almost  hear  the  birds 
breathing  !  No  doubt  our 
visitor  concluded  that  we  too 
were  slumbering,  and  little 
thought  his  "  face  would  be 
taken  away "  by  that  mysteiy 
of  mysteries — the  camera. 

At  last  the  lordly  Niger  is  reached—  that  great 
artery  of  the  West  Coast  which  at  Lokoja  (three 
hundred  and  fifty  miles  above  the  sea)  is  five 
miles  across  during  the  wet  season. 

We  struck  the  river  at  Jebba — seen  in  the  third 


Ft  om  a 


THU   CAMl'   OK     JHE    I'ARTV   AT    JEBBA. 


\rhoio. 


J- > pill  a\ 


VIKW    OF   JlilSl'.A,    SHiiUING    THE    .VIVEN    M  Al  1,-STI'.A  M  H;. 


snap-shot — a   place  five  hundred  and  fifty  miles 

above    its    mouth,    the    head-quarters    of    the 

Government  until  last  year. 

The  arrival  of  the  mails  was   always  a   time 

of  great  excitement.     The  stern-wheeled  Empire 

made  a  pretty 
picture  as  she- 
steamed  quick])' 
up  stream,  whilst 
hundreds  of  the 
idle  and  curious 
rushed  down  to 
see  her  moored. 
I'he  river  is  a 
stupendous  sight 
to  the  slave  from 
the  interior. 
When  brought 
down  country  to 
its  banks  it  was 
no  uncommon 
thing  for  a  man  to 
faint  at  the  sight 
of  so  much  water. 
And  the  steam 
boats!  What 
rumours  were  cir- 
culated along  the 
Niger's  shores'. 
The  dwellers 
on  the  river's 
banks  were  firmly 


{Photo. 


ii8 


THE    WIDE     WORED    MACiAZINE. 


I  IlK    MVSTEMOIIS    JU-JU    KclCIC— THH    N  A  I  I  \  EN    DKCI.AUKIJ     IIIAI     II 
/•IPllia]  UNTII.     I  WO    BKI  I  ISII    OFF-ICEKS    SCALED    If. 

persuaded  that  the  funnels  were  cannons  on  (^nd 
and  lighted  ready  to  fire  !  llie  white  man,  they 
declared,  had  only  to  lower  the  funnel  and  great 
iron  balls  would  belch  forth  therefrom  ! 

r.efore  the  removal  of  the  head  (juaiters  of  the 
(Icnernment  to  Zunguru,  the  military  cam[)  was 
situated  on  the  island  at  Jebha.  A  few  white 
houses  can  be  seen  to  the  right 
of  our  fourth  picture,  whilst  an 
eminence  known  as  the  Ju-ju 
Rock  stands  out  in  the  distance. 
A  better  view  of  this  noble  crag 
is  given  in  the  above  photogra[)h, 
which  was  taken  from  the  north 
bank  of  the  river,  which  here  flows 
from  west  to  east. 

The  Ju-ju  Rock  is  sacred  in 
the  eyes  of  the  people.  No  man 
can  set  foot  on  it  -still  less  reach 
the  summit,  they  say.  Two 
English  officers  determined  to 
disabuse  the  natives'  minds  of 
this  illusion,  and  gaily  set  forth 
to  scale  the  height.  I'hey  speedily 
returned  -very  much  to  the  de- 
light of  the  black  troops— with  a 
little  more-  than  they  bargained 
for. 

No  spirits  barred  their  way, 
however.  I'ar  worse  than  that 
a  swarm  of  bees  made  havoc  of 
their  feelings  !  Not  to  be  beaten, 
they  returned  to  the  charge  and 
climbed    by  another    path.       The 


summit  reached,  a  gun  was 
fired  and  the  Union  Jack 
planted.  Thus  was  a  ridicu- 
lous belief  finally  exploded 
and  common  sense  vindi- 
cated. 

The  river  here  —  as  else- 
where—  abounds  in  crocodiles. 
\Vhilst  we  were  at  Jebba 
several  disasters  occurred. 
One  brute  was  known  to 
have  eaten  twelve  men.  He 
heljied  himself  to  an  arm  to 
remind  us  that  he  was  still 
eating. 

We  were  not  sorry  to  leave 
unhealthy  Jebba  and  to  get 
well  away  into  the  interior. 
We  passed  Zunguru,  the 
present  head-quarters  of  the 
.  (jovernment,  but  then  mere 
virgin  bush. 

The  Nupe  people,  through 
whose  territory  we  passed,  are 
great  huntsmen,  and  are  very 
proud  of  their  prowess  in  the  chase.  Hence 
the  establishment  of  most  unique  open-air 
museums  such  as  the  one  depicted  in  the  next 
illustration.  The  warriors  pile  upon  a  raised 
stand  horns  and  tusks  and  even  mammoth 
bones — the  trophies  of  the  hunt.  Thus  the 
spirit  of  emulation   is   kept  alive  in   the  young 


\V„S   UNCl.l'MliAr.l.l- 
[J'/iotp. 


•;.N-AIK    MUSICUM    liF    |11.N"II\C.     IKnl'IIM'S    IN    A    NUl'H    VIIIAGK. 
h'rfliii  a   J'/intiK 


MY    EXPERIENCES    A'l'    KANO. 


119 


ll                  __                                   1 

'.f. 

k^'>- . 

•a: 

■a^»-- ••■    •        ^!)■' 

'1 

^'  *..* 

'■1 

.-•<,v.r?^^      ' 

r«' 

p 

^jtSt 

■f     ^4 

^ii^BI^ 

k       'M 

L  f 

1 

*** 

i 

1                                                                                                                      '   \ 

Ffoni  a\ 


A    SCENE    IN'    THE    FOREST. 


exhibition   standing  as   a   permanent 
the  prowess  of  the  inhabitants  of  the 


men,  the 
record  of 
village. 

The  forest  itself,  however— a  glimpse  of  it   is 


here  shown  — is  very  disappointing. 
A  few  giant  trees  stand  up  above 
their  fellows,  the  cotton  trees  being 
especially  fine ;  but  as  a  rule  the 
country  is  only  thinly  wooded. 
Shade  is  very  much  sought  a''tcr,  and 
nearly  every  town  can  boast  of  mag- 
nificent trees  in  its  near  vicinity, 
whilst  the  foliage  within  the  walls 
presents  a  very  pleasing  effect. 

Once  you  reach  the  Hausa  coun- 
try you  notice  that  every  town  and 
village  possesses  its  wall,  as  shown  in 
the  last  photograph.  Some  of  the 
walls  are  rather  tumble-down  and 
([uaint,  and  nearly  all  aspire  after 
turrets.  The  city  gates  are  closed 
at  sunset,  not  only  to  exclude  wild 
animals,  but  also  to  guard  against  a 
sudden  raid.  For  no  one  is  safe 
from  the  malice  of  the  slave-trader. 

The  women  work  hard.  Poly- 
gamy is  defended  on  the  plea  that 
one  wife  cannot  prepare  enough 
food  for  her  lord  and  master  I 
Moreover,  when  I  explained  that 
in  England  a  man  was  allowed  only 
one  wife,  I  was  told  that  it  was 
flying  in  the  face  of  Providence. 
"  Only  look  at  your  hand,''  they  cried.  "  God 
made  it.  There  are  four  fingers  to  one  thumb, 
and  thus  God  teaches  us  that  one  man  may 
have  four  wives  !  " 


{Photo. 


\\YM\     liiUN    AND    Vll.l.AGk    IN     HAL'SAI.ANU    I'l  )^s1.;SM;s    IIS    WAI.I.,    Till-.    liAIES    r.KINi,    CI-OsKll    Al 
/'•Ollia]  SUNSET — THIS    IS    DONE    TO    GUAKD    AGAINST    RAIDS    UY    SLAVE-TK AUEKS.  \PhotO. 


(  To  he  continued.) 


BESIEGED    IN    A    TREE. 


AN  OFFICER'S  ADVENTURE  WITH  A  "ROGUE"  ELEPHANT. 

Rv  C.    E.   (TOUF.Ds^,|•K^,   District  Superixtkxdext  of  the  ]]e\gal  Police. 

The  author  writes  :  "  This  story  is  an  account  of  a  terrible  adventure  which  happened  to  a  friend 
of  mine  Lieutenant  (now  Captain)  R.  McLeod  Porteous,  of  the  Indian  Staff  Corps.  His  regiment 
was  quartered  in  the  district  to  which  I  was  attached  at  the  time,  and  as  he  related  his  experiences 
to  me    a   few    days    after   the    occurrence    all    the    facts  were    still    fresh    in    his    mind    and    made    a 

lasting  impression  on  mine." 


HE  wing  of  the  regiment  to  which 
my  friend  Porteous  belonged,  the 
9th  Bengal  Infantry,  was  quartered 
on  a  hill  some  two  thou.sand  feet 
above  the  plains,  which  were  covered 
by  vast  and  almost  impenetrable  jungles,  inter- 
sected by  swift-rushing  mountain  streams  and  m 
fested  with  herds  of  wild  elephant.  Rhinoceroses, 
tigers,  and  leopards  were  also  abundant,  and  pig 
and  deer  of  all  kinds  were  so  plentiful  and 
such  comparatively  easy  prey  that  the  tigers  and 
leopards  had  ample  for  their  sustenance  without 
being  constrained,  as  is  usually  their  wont,  to  kill 
the  cattle  belonging  to  the  few  villages  scattered 
here  and  there  along  the  military  road  passing 
through  the  forest.  Hence  the  usual  methods 
of  hunting  these  animals,  by  watching  over  the 
carcass  of  any  cow  or  bullock  killed  by  them 
and  reported  by  the  owner,  or  beating  tlie  ])ar- 
ticular  patch  of  jungle  into  which  sucli  carcass 
had  been  dragged,  could  not  be  adopted  ;  there- 
fore, the  only  plan  likely  to  be  successful  was  to 
tie  up  an  old  bullock  or  cow  occasionally  at 
nights  in  some  run  or  path  known  to  be  fre- 
quented by  tigers.  If  a  "kill"  took  place  a 
platform  was  hastily  constructed  in  the  branches 
of  a  tree  nearest  to  tiie  sjjot,  and  here 
the  spcrtsman  look  up  his  position  at  sun 
down  on  the  chance  of  the  tiger  returning  to 
finish  what  was  left  of  his  previous  night's 
dinner.  This  plan  was  almost  invariably 
adopted,  and  most  fre(]uently  by  my  young 
friend,  who,  being  a  keen  and  fearless  sportsman, 
thought  Httle  of  the  risks  from  fevers  or  the  dis 
comfort,  not  to  .say  danger,  necessarily  attendant 
on  these  nightlong  vigils. 

He  had  pursued  these  tactics  for  some  weeks, 
but  so  far  had  not  been  fortunate— either  ius 
"  baits  "  broke  away  and  wandered  home  or 
were  killed  during  the  dark  phases  of  the  moon. 
He  watched  over  some  of  these  "kills"  and 
fired  a  shot  or  two  in  the  direction  in  which 
the  tiger  could  be  heard  at  his  meal,  but 
wlietlier  he  liit  or  missed  he  could  not  tell  ;  at 
any  rate,  the  morning  light  never  revealed  any- 
thing dead,  except  the  remains  of  the  unfor- 
tunate "kill." 


However,  perseverance  at  last  was  apparently 
about  fo  be  rewarded,  for  one  bright  afternoon, 
at  a  time  when  the  moon  was  at  her  best,  the 
shikari,  who  had  been  to  visit  the  "  baits," 
reported  that  a  bullock,  tied  in  the  bed  of  a  dry 
river  in  the  heart  of  the  forest,  had  been  killed, 
apparently  by  a  large  tiger,  as  the  body  had 
JK'en  dragged  a  considerable  distance  into  a 
comparatively  open  patch  of  jungle,  close  to 
which  was  a  suitable  tree  for  a  platform,  the 
upper  branches  commanding  a  full  view  of  the 
carcass.  The  shikari  added  that  he  had  already 
constructed  the  "  machan,"  or  platform,  and 
suggested  that  as  evening  was  approaching  the 
sahib  had  better  start  at  once.  Porteous,  as 
may  be  supposed,  was  not  likely  to  make  any 
unnecessary  delay,  but  as  the  distance  was 
about  five  miles,  and  it  was  likely  to  be  late 
before  he  could  reach  the  spot,  he  obtained  per- 
mission from  his  commanding  officer  to  take 
one  of  the  regimental  elephants,  a  steady  old 
female,  on  which,  with  his  '577  E.xpress  and  a 
couple  of  rugs,  with  the  shikari  behind  him, 
he  was  soon  e7i  roufc. 

W'neMi  he  arrived  at  the  "  kill  "  it  was  getting 
dark,  Init  still  there  was  sufficient  light  to 
clamber  into  the  tree,  which  he  did  off  the 
elephant's  back  and  with  the  assistance  of  the 
shikari.  He  noticed  as  he  got  up  that  the 
tree  was  rather  a  slender  one.  However,  as  he 
found  his  platform  steady  enough  and  suffi- 
ciently high  to  be  safe  from  any  attack  the 
tiger  could  make,  he  lelt  quite  secure;  and  so, 
dismissing  the  shikari  and  ele{)hant  with  instruc- 
iKJiis  to  stav  the  night  in  a  village  aboul  two 
miles  off  and  to  come  for  him  in  the  morning, 
he  made  himself  as  comfortal)le  as  he  could  on 
his  lofty  [)erch  and  waited  longmgly  for  the 
moon  to  rise,  as  he  feared,  in  spite  of  the  dis- 
turbance caused  i)y  his  arn\al,  that  the  tiger 
might  come  while  it  was  yet  dark.  But 
ap|)arently  "Stripes  "  iiad  no  such  intention,  for 
two  or  three  long  hours  passed  without  any 
signs  of  him. 

The  moon  was  now  shining  brightly  and  all 
around  was  as  light  as  day.  Porteous  noticed 
that,    though    there   was   very   heavy  jungle  for 


besie(;ed  in  a  tree. 


121 


miles  around,  immediately  to  the  right  of  where 
he  sat  the  cover  was  comparatively  light,  thin- 
niiiij  down  to  low  scrub  in  the  direction  of  the 
river-bed,  which  was  plainly  visible  about  a 
hundred  yards  off.  He  had  completed  his 
reconnaissance  and  was  beginning  to  find  the 
tmie  going  rather  slowly  when  he  fancied  he 
heard  the  soft,  muffled  tread  and  low,  purring 
sound,  so  familiar  to  the  sportsman,  with  which 
a  tiger  a[)proaches  when  suspecting  danger. 
Soon  these  sounds  became  so  distinct  and 
drew  nearer  so  steadily  that  Porteous  felt 
the  tiger  might  show  at  any  moment.  He  had 
brought  his  rifle  to  the  ready  when  he  heard  at 
some  little  distance  off,  but  rapidly  approach- 
ing, a  noise  as  of  several  heavy  bodies 
crashing  quickly  through  the  jungle  fringing 
the  opposite  bank  of  the  river  -  bed,  and 
loud  squeals  and  trumpeting,  as  if  all  the 
elephants  in  the  country  had  assembled.  Soon 
a   gigantic    male    elephant,    with    huge    tusks, 


"a  r.iuANi  ic  male  ki.kihant  rushed  out  into  the  river-ui;u. 


rushed  out  into  the  river-bed,  and  going  down  it 
as  fast  as  he  could  disappeared  from  view.  He 
was  followed  almost  immediately  by  a  large  herd 
of  some  twenty  ele[)hants,  evidently  in  pursuit 
of  him,  and  apparently  in  a  furious  rage,  for 
they  were  squealing  and  trumpeting  as  they 
went,  and  going  at  a  tremendous  pace,  as  though 
determined  to  catch  the  fugitive. 

All  chance  of  the  tiger  was  now  of  course  at 

Vol.  xi.— 16. 


an  end,  for,  though  tigers  are  not  as  a  rule  shy  of 
wild  elephants,  a  disturbance  of  the  kind  I  have 
described  was  enough  to  scare  any  wild  animal. 
Porteous  was  naturally  much  interested  in  the 
very  rare  scene  he  had  just  witnessed,  for  it  is 
not  every  sportsman  who  has  the  luck  to  see  an 
unruly  "  tusker  "  being  driven  out  of  a  herd  ; 
at  the  same  time,  he  could  not  but  feel  that 
"  the  show  "  had  not  only  lost  him  his  tiger,  but 
had  condemned  him  to  a  long  and  useless 
solitary  vigil  for  the  rest  of  the  night.  He  little 
thought  of  the  exciting  experience  which  was 
in  store  for  him. 

The  troop  of  pursuing  elephants  had  now 
passed  out  of  sight,  but  could  still  be  heard 
faintly  in  the  distance,  and  Porteous  made  pre- 
parations for  passing  as  comfortable  a  night 
as  was  possible  under  the  circumstances. 
Accordingly,  securing  his  rifle  as  best  he 
could  to  the  platform,  he  lay  down,  inclined 
to  sleep,  but  kept  awake  by  a  faint  hope  that 

the  tiger  might  yet 
return.  He  was, 
however,  just  doz- 
ing off  when  he 
was  aroused  by  the 
noise  of  the  herd 
returning,  and 
soon  saw  them,  in 
Indian  file,  pass- 
ing quietly  up  the 
river-bed  on  their 
way  back  to  the 
jungle  from  which 
they  had  originally 
come.  They  were 
quickly  out  of 
sight  and  hearing. 
From  their  pre- 
sent quiet  and 
peaceful  demean- 
our it  was  evident 
that  the  " rogue  " 
had  been  effect- 
ually driven  off — at  least,  this 
was  the  conclusion  arrived  at 
by  the  young  Sj)ortsman,  who, 
now  that  this  little  excitement 
was  over,  lit  his  pipe  for  a 
final  smoke  before  returning  to 
his  rugs.  He  had  hardly  begun,  however, 
when  he  heard  what  sounded  like  another 
elephant  moving  through  the  jungle  into 
which  the  "  rogue  "  had  been  driven,  and 
suddenly  a  large  tusker  appeared  walking 
slowly  up  the  river-bed.  As  he  came  in  a  line 
with  Porteous's  tree  he  halted,  and  raising  his 
trunk  in  the  air  appeared  to  be  scenting  some- 
thing.    Then,    turning    to    his    right,    he    came 


122 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


slowly  on,  scenting  as  he  walked;  this  move- 
ment brought  him  to  within  some  twenty-five 
yards  abreast  of  the  tree.  .  To  Porteous,  who  was 
watching  him  with  considerable  interest,  he 
appeared  as  though  about  to  pass  on  into  the 
jungle,  when,  without  the  slightest  warning,  the 
great  brute,  suddenly  turning  at  right  angles  to 
his  course,  charged  straight  at  the  tree  !  For- 
tunately for  Porteous  he  was  standing  up  at  the 
time,  with  his  hand  on  a  bough,  and  had  just 
time  to  throw  his  arms  round  it.  Otherwise,  so 
completely  had  he  been  taken  by  surprise  that 
the  terrific  crash  which  followed  would  most 
certainly  have  hurled  him  off  the  platform  and 
left  him  at  the  mercy  of  the  furious  beast  below. 
As  It  was,  he  had  the 
greatest  difficulty  in  main- 
taining his  position,  for, 
not  satisfied  with  the  one 
attempt,  the  elephant 
returned  again  and  again 
to  the  charge,  the  tree 
bending  to  each  blow, 
having,  as  already  men- 
tioned, a  somewhat  slen- 
der trunk  and  being  a 
comparatively  young  and 
elastic  tree.  Had  it  not 
been  so  it  must  assuredly 
have  snapped  under  the 
heavy  blows  so  frequently 
repeated. 

In  the  meanwhile  the 
young  ofiicer's  position 
was  indeed  a  most  peri- 
lous one,  and  his  feelings 
may  be  better  imagined 
than  described.  He 
could  not  tell  how  long 
the  elephant  would  per- 
sist in  his  attacks  nor 
how  much  longer  the  tree 
would  withstand  them. 
Casting  a  hurried  look 
down  he  found  that 
another  misfortune  had 
befallen  him  —  his  rifle 
had  slipj)ed  from  its  place 
on  the  platform  and  had 
stuck  in  some  branches 
a  little  lower  down,  where 
he  could  not  reach  it 
without  relinquishing  his 
hold  of  the  bough,  'i'his 
he  dared  not  do,  as  the 
elephant,  when  not 
actually  butting  at  the 
tree,  watched  him  in- 
tently, the  slightest  move- 


ment  on  his  [)art  being  immediately  followed 
by  an  impetuous  charge. 

This  extraordinary  one-sided  duel  had  been 
going  on  for  about  ten  minutes  when  the 
elephant,  apparently  tired  of  his  futile  attempts 
to  dislodge  the  sportsman,  or  to  gain  time  to 
concoct  a  fresh  plan  of  attack,  began  to  march 
slowly  off.  Seizing  this  opportunity  Porteous 
let  go  his  hold  and,  leaning  over  the  platform, 
seized  his  rifle,  but  the  very  slight  noise  he 
made  in  recovering  it  was  sufficient  for  the  wily 
brute  below,  who  turned  in  a  second  and 
charged  more  furiously  than  ever.  Luckily 
Porteous  had  regained  his  position  before  the 
shock  came,  and  was  able,  though  with  dififi- 


TIIE   (iUKAl-    liNUllO   SlilZKL)    IIOI.O   OI"    IT    WITH    HIS   TRUNK." 


BESIEGED    IN    A    TREE. 


123 


CLilty,  ns  lie  was  now  hampered  by  the  gun, 
to  hold  on. 

The  elepliant  charged  once  more  and  then 
suddenly  changed  its  tactics.  Putting  up  its 
trunk  in  search  of  something  to  lay  hold  of,  it 
saw  the  end  of  the  thin  rope  with  which  the 
platform  had  been  secured  to  the  branch.  This 
had  slipped  off  in  the  struggle  and  was  now 
dangling  down.  The  great  brute  promptly 
seized  hold  of  it  with  his  trunk,  and  Porteous, 
to  his  intense  horror  and  consternation,  found 
himself  being  gradually  drawn  towards  the 
ground,  as  the  bough  bent  under  the  strain  ! 
The  branch  creaked  and  must  soon  have  parted, 
when  providentially  the  rope  snapped  and  the 
bough,  rebounding  with  considerable  force, 
nearly  accomplished  what  the  elephant  had  been 
so  long  attempting  to  do.  Fortunately,  however, 
Porteous  was  prepared,  and,  though  much 
bruised  and  shaken,  still  held  on. 

Now  came  his  opportunity.  The  elephant, 
for  the  moment  taken  by  surprise,  stood  still, 
gazing  upwards,  and  Porteous,  placing  the 
muzzle  of  his  rifle  between  his  left  arm  and 
the  bough,  fired  it  at  the  brute's  head,  hitting 
him,  apparently,  but  too  high  up  for  the  shot 
to  be  fatal.  Maddened  with  rage  and  pain, 
the  now  doubly  infuriated  animal  dashed  at  the 
tree  again,  but,  missing  it  in  his  headlong  charge, 
passed  on,  giving  Porteous  time  to  fire  the 
second  barrel,  which  he  did,  apparently  with 
considerable  effect,  for  the  elephant  on  receiving 
the  shot  seemed  to  quicken  its  pace  and  dashed 
into  the  jungle.  By  this  time  Porteous  had  put 
in  fresh  cartridges,  and  he  now  fired  both  barrels 
in  quick  succession  at  what  he  could  see  of  the 
retreating  animal  through  the  trees.  These 
shots  evidently  settled  any  doubt  the  elephant 
might  have  had  as  to  returning  to  the  attack, 
for  he  continued  his  flight,  as  could  be  guessed 
from  the  sounds  of  his  heavy  tread  and  the 
crashing  of  the  jungle,  which  became  fainter  and 
fainter,  till  finally  lost  altogether  in  the  distance. 

Porteous  had  now  leisure  to  consider  his 
position,  and  could  but  feel  thankful  for  his 
marvellous  escape.  Not  that  he  was  by  any 
means  out  of  the  wood  yet,  in  more  senses  than 
one.  Consulting  his  watcli,  he  found  it  was  but 
little  past  one  o'clock,  and  he  could  look  for  no 
succour  for  another  four  or  five  hours  to  come. 
In  the  meanwhile  the  elephant  might  return  at 
any  moment— he  knew  full  well  tlie  vindictive 
disposition  of  these  animals,  jjarticularly  the 
solitary  "  rogues  " —and  if  this  one  did  return, 
further  infuriated  as  it  was  by  the  wounds  it  had 
received,  it  would  not  be  likely  to  retire  again 
without  making  every  effort  to  obtain  its  revenge. 


It  was,  therefore,  necessary  to  be  fully  prepared 
for  such  a  contingency.  But  what  could  be 
done  to  make  his  position  more  secure  ?  He 
looked  about  liun  in  the  hope  of  finding  a  tree 
better  suited  to  withstand  the  severe  shocks  he 
had  experienced,  but  could  not  see  one  that  he 
had  any  means  of  climbing.  Then  the  idea  of 
getting  down  and  making  his  way  through  the 
forest  occurred  to  him,  but  only  to  be  dismissed 
as  hopelessly  impracticable  ;  for,  in  the  first  place, 
he  was  not  at  all  sure  that  he  could  find  his  way 
to  the  village  where  his  own  elephant  was,  and 
there  was  no  other  refuge  for  him.  Secondly, 
for  all  he  knew,  the  "rogue"  might  have  worked 
his  way  round  to  the  very  jungle  through  which 
his  path  lay.  No  ;  there  was  nothing  to  be 
done  but  to  stay  where  he  was  and  to  go 
through  the  long,  anxious  hours  with  all  the 
fortitude  he  could  summon.  So  hauling  m  what 
remained  of  the  dangling  rope,  which  had  so 
nearly  proved  fatal  to  him,  he  sat  down  on  the 
platform  and  commenced  his  long  and  anxious 
vigil.  Sleep  was  of  course  out  of  the  question, 
for  even  had  he  felt  drowsy  he  dared  not  yield 
to  the  feeling,  for  if  the  elephant  returned  obvi- 
ously his  only  chance  was  to  be  fully  prepared 
for  him,  and  if  possible  to  give  him  a  fatal  shot 
or  cripple  him  before  he  had  time  to  charge. 
But,  as  a  matter  of  fact,  sleep  was  the  last  thing 
he  thought  of;  the  events  of  the  night  had 
been  far  too  exciting,  and  the  recollection  of  the 
horrors  he  had  so  recently  undergone  were 
more  than  sufficient  to  dispel  any  feelings  of 
somnolence. 

Hour  after  hour  dragged  slowly  on,  each  one 
seeming  longer  tlian  the  last,  but  happily  they 
brought  no  sign  of  the  "  rogue's  "  return.  At  last 
the  dawn  appeared,  and  shortly  afterwards  a 
distant  rustling  told  of  something  approaching, 
and  soon  the  heavy  tread  and  crashing  of 
branches  left  little  doubt  as  to  what  it  was. 
Porteous,  seizing  his  rifle,  started  up.  "  The 
'  rogue  '  again  !  "  was  naturally  his  first  thought, 
but  now  the  sound  of  human  voices  reached  his 
ears,  and  a  minute  or  two  later,  instead  of  the 
truculent  "tusker"  he  had  expected,  there 
appeared  in  the  river-bed  the  benign  counten- 
ance of  the  good-tempered  old  lady  off  whose 
back  he  had  scrambled  the  night  before  into 
his  uncomfortable  and  perilous  position  in  the 
tree. 

Never  was  sight  of  elephant  more  welcome, 
for  Porteous  had  not  expected  his  deliverance 
so  early.  He  was  soon  on  her  back  jogging 
merrily  homewards,  and  congratulating  himself 
on  being  still  alive  to  tell  the  tale  of  his 
midnight  adventure  with  a  wild  elephant !. 


The    Man  -  Stealers. 

By   Captain   Wilton   Forster,    late  of   the   Lmperl\l   Chinese   Navy. 

An  incident  of  the  horrible  Chinese  coohe  slave  trade.  The  author  held  a  roving  commission  to 
hunt  for  pirates,  but  by  mistake  pursued  a  slaver,  the  result  being  a  stiff  fight,  the  destruction  of  the 
kidnappers  at  the  hands  of  the  people  whose  homes  they  had  rendered  desolate,  and  the  release  of  the 

unfortunates  aboard  the  slaver. 


URING  the  latter  days  of  the  coolie 
slave  trade*  I  was  an  officer  in  the 
Chinese  Imperial  Navy,  with  a  rank 
equivalent  to  that  of  commander  in 
our  own.  I  had  been  for  some  time 
engaged  in  hunting  down  the  Hing  Ti  pirates, 
the  terrible  "  Brotherhood  of  the  Seven  Pirate 
Captains."  By  means  of  successful  ruses  and 
surprises  I  had  already  been  fortunate  enough 
to. kill  or  capture  three  of  these  captains  and 
most  of  their  crews.  One  of  the  vessels  I  had 
taken  was  a  sort  of  cross  between  a  fore-and-aft 
schooner  and  the  fastest  kind  of  Chinese  junk 
— a  very  smart  little  craft  of  some  ninety  tons 
burden.  This  vessel  had  been  known  far  and 
wide  as  the  Red  Pirate,  because  its  late  owners, 
in  staining  her  light  canvas  sails  so  as  to 
resemble  the  thin,  flexible  mat  ones  of  the  junks, 
had  contrived  accidentally  to  tinge  them  a 
reddish  hue. 

I  had  persuaded  the  authorities  to  allow  me 
to  have  this  craft  fitted  up  as  a  Government 
vessel  and  to  put  my  fifty  foreign- drilled  seamen 
and  Marines  on  board  her.  A  Chinese  military 
mandarin  of  the  rank  of  major  was  associated 
with  me  —  as  was  customary  —  in  order  to 
facilitate  any  arrangements  I  might  need  to 
make  with  officials  on  shore.  The  ship's  arma 
ment  consisted  of  a  long  brass  twelve-pounder 
and  four  long  "sixes"  in  the  bow  and  stern 
ports.  With  this  fast  and  useful  vessel  and  my 
smart  crew  I  hoped  to  do  great  execution  among 
the  pirates. 

When  well  out  at  sea  the  ex-Red  Pirate  was 
restored  to  her  old  appearance  sufficiently,  at 
least,  to  be  able  to  defy  any  but  the  very  closest 
scrutiny.       Uniforms,     arms,     armament,     and 

*  The  Chinese  coolie  trade,  which  originally  purported  to  supply 
labourers  for  the  mines  in  Peru  and  Cuba  and  tfie  guano  pits  of  the 
Chincha  Islands,  had  by  the  last  quarter  of  the  nineteenth  century 
liec  me  simply  a  form  of  the  slave  trade  and  a  disijrace  to  civiliza- 
tion. \  oung  men  of  the  upper  and  middle  as  well  as  of  the  lower 
classes  were  frequently  kidnapped  by  force  or  fraud  by  these  "coolie 
traders,  and  tli'-ir  sufferings  on  the  voyage  to  South  America 
equalled  the  hcrors  of  the  famous  "  Middle  Passage  '  The  sur- 
vivors on  arrival  were  forced  to  work  in  gangs  under  overseers 
armed  with  cowhi'le  whips.  In  i860,  out  of  four  thousand  coolies 
who  had  been  sent  to  the  Chincha  Islands  guano  pits  during  a  space 
of  about  seven  years,  not  one  survived  !  Some  had  poisoned  them- 
selves; others  deliberately  jumped  over  the  clilTs  and  drowned 
themselves  in  the  sea  The  coolies  were  imnris  ined  in  the  Portu- 
guese barracoons  at  Macao  till  put  on  hoard  the  South  American 
or  Portuguese  vessels,  many  hundreds  at  a  time.  Official  repre- 
sentations concerning  this  horrible  traffic  eventually  caused  the 
British  Government  to  take  action,  and  with  the  support  of  the 
British  fleet  China  wa.  enabled  to  suppress  it. — Author. 


European  officer  all  vanished,  and  an  appa- 
rently unarmed  vessel  of  doubtful  appearance, 
with  but  a  few  men  in  her,  remained. 

We  sailed  quietly  along  till  we  reached  the 
port  of  Pmghoi,  entering  the  harbour  just  as 
day  was  breaking. 

I  had  been  asleep  some  three  hours  or  so 
when  the  rays  of  the  rising  sun,  entering  the 
stern  ports  and  falling  on  my  face,  aroused  me. 
Ever  a  light  sleeper,  I  sat  up  and  was  looking  at 
my  watch  when  a  rush  of  men  on  deck,  with 
the  creaking  and  groaning  of  the  gun-ropes, 
caused  me  to  spring  out  of  my  berth  in  double- 
quick  time.  Hastily  donning  helmet,  tunic,  and 
sword-belt,  I  sprang  up  the  companion-ladder  in 
time  to  witness  a  most  extraordinary  scene. 

The  vessel  had  just  entered  the  harbour. 
The  peaceful  traders  and  numerous  small  craft 
therein  seemed  in  a  state  of  mad  panic.  Their 
crews  were  frantically  rushing  about,  some  beat- 
ing gongs  and  others  firing  crackers.  Great 
cargo  vessels  were  hastily  hoisting  their  sails 
and  cutting  their  cables  in  order  to  escape 
out  to  sea,  while  the  whole  of  the  female  popu- 
lation of  the  place  were  apparently  screaming 
together  in  shrill  chorus  I  But  in  contrast  to 
all  this  abject  terror  were  some  dozen  or 
so  of  fishing  craft  anchored  by  themselves, 
the  ''  tankars,"  or  fishermen,  on  which  were 
busy  loading  antiquated  iron  guns  of  small 
calibre  and  handing  up  matchlocks  and  gingals 
from  below  with  an  evident  intention  of  using 
them  ! 

Then  the  meaning  of  it  all  began  to  dawn  on 
me.  Looking  towards  the  foremast  head,  where 
— it  being  after  sunrise — the  Imperial  l)ragon 
ought  to  have  been  flying,  I  discovered  that  my 
impudent  blackguards  had  seen  fit  to  hoist  tiie 
dreaded  three-cornered  blood-red  flag  of  the 
[)irate  brotherhood  in  its  place,  while  the  beams 
of  the  morning  sun,  falling  on  the  sails,  showed 
u[)  the  peculiar  tint  of  the  Red  Pirate's  canvas 
to  perfection  !  That  nothing  might  be  wanting 
to  complete  the  effect  of  their  practical  joke 
some  two  score  of  the  rascals,  stripped  to  the 
waist,  were  "  making  believe "  to  handle  the 
guns  or  flourishing  boarding-pikes  in  the  most 
ferocious  fashion,  meanwhile  exchanging  broad 
grins  to  indicate  their  delight  at  the  success  of 
their  trick. 


THK    MAN-STEALERS 


125 


The  unholy  joy  of  the  Hakkas  at  tlieir 
trick's  success  was  quickly  changed  to  appre- 
hension as  1  stepped  on  to  the  deck,  but  all 
fear  of  my  displeasure  quickly  faded  before 
the  imminent  peril  we  stood  in  of  getting 
blown  out  of  the  water  as  a  consequence  of 
their  daring  "  lark.''  For  from  the  lee  side 
of  a  small  island  there  suddenly  appeared  the 
huge   new  junk   of    the   Chinese  admiral,   and 


double  discomfiture  of  the  inhabitants  and  my 
European-drilled  men — neither  being  exactly 
beloved  of  the  mandarin  order — and  said  no 
more  about  the  matter.  On  learning  that  I 
was  going  ashore  he  offered  to  go  with  me  to 
expedite  my  getting  a  supply  of  fresh  provisions, 
and  to  smooth  over  any  difficulties  caused  by 
my  men's  misconduct.  Admiral  Wang  then 
seated  himself  beside  me,  preferring  my  whale- 


"tHIiRE   suddenly    APTEARED    the    [IL'GR    JUN'K    OK    THE   CHINESE    AOMIKAL." 


above  its  bright  teak  wood  sides  and  yellow 
metal  sheathing,  flashing  in  the  sun,  protruded 
the  grinning  muzzles  of  a  battery  of  nine  long 
eighteen-pounders,  while  with  thoughtful  con 
sideration  a  huge  thirty-two-pounder  amidships 
was  being  specially  trained  on  to  the  Red  Pimle. 
The  tide  was  running  swiftly,  and,  combined 
with  the  exertions  of  some  one  hundred  and 
fifty  men  at  the  long  oars  or  sweeps,  was  rapidly 
bringing  the  mandarin's  vessel  broadside  within 
half  musket-shot  when  I  sprang  into  the  bows 
and  by  dint  of  shouting  and  waving  my  helmet 
succeeded  in  averting  the  admiral's  fire.  A 
boat  was  then  quickly  dragged  from  under  a 
pile  of  deck  lumber  concealing  it,  and  the  men 
having  resumed  their  uniforms,  manned  it 
and  pulled  me  over  to  the  Chinese  admiral's 
vessel,  in  order  to  explain  matters  to  that 
puzzled  Celestial.  He,  being  a  good-natured 
mandarin,  only  indulged  in  broad  grins  at  the 


boat  to  his  own  huge,  unwieldy,  shoe-sha[ied 
punt.  The  interpreter  and  the  major  quickly 
followed,  and  we  went  ashore  to  visit  the  tepo, 
or  head  magistrate  of  the  place. 

After  we  had  gone  through  the  formalities  of 
greeting  a  very  animated  discussion  arose  re- 
garding the  recent  doings  of  the  "  man-stealers". 
on  that  part  of  the  coast.  It  appeared  that  one 
of  their  craft  had  actually  had  the  audacity  to 
enter  the  harbour  at  sunset  while  the  admiral's 
vessel  lay  there,  and  young  men  and  youths 
had  been  kidnapped  or  beguiled  on  board  from 
the  neighbourhood  under  the  great  man's  very 
nose  ! 

While  we  were  sipping  the  inevitable  tea  a 
tremendous  hubbub  arose  in  the  street  outside. 
The  soldiers  and  "  runners  "  who  were  in  wait- 
ing outside  the  closed  doors  in  vain  attempted 
to  quell  the  disturbance,  until  at  last,  as  a  riot 
seemed  likely  to  occur,  the  mandarin  listened  to 


126 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


the  advice  of  his  host,  the  tepo,  and  gave  orders 
that  the  crowd  who  were  clamouring  to  see  him 
should  be  admitted. 

The  instant  the  doors  were  thrown  open  the 
angry  folk  quickly  filled  the  outer  apartment. 
Then,  somewhat  abashed  in  the  great  man's 
presence— supported  as  he  was  by  a  European 
officer  and  half-a-dozen  European-drilled  Marines 
■ — the  ringleaders  duly  kow-towed  and  then 
presented  a  petition.  The  burden  of  their  com- 
plaints was  the  same  in  every  case,  and  the 
redress  begged  for  identical.  Son,  grandson, 
nephew,  or  cousin  had  been  taken  away  from 
his  home  by  force  or  fraud  by  the  scoundrelly 
"  man-stealers."  "  Get  them  restored  to  us,"  each 
petition  invariably  concluded.  All  ranks  were 
represented  here — schoolmasters,  merchants, 
shopkeepers,  farmers,  agricultural  labourers,  all 
carefully  attired  in  their  best  clothes,  and  all  now 
perfectly  orderly  and  decorously  behaved.  Yet 
the  unhappy  men,  it  was  easy  to  see,  were  terribly 
in  earnest,  and  both  mandarin  and  tepo  were 
much  moved.  Some  of  the  missing  youths  were 
personally  known  to  both  of  them.     Moreover, 


Personally,  I  felt  much  sympathy  with  the 
bereaved  parents  and  relatives  of  these  unlucky 
young  men  and  lads  ;  for  I  well  knew  that  in  all 
human  probability  they  would  never  be  heard 
of  again. 

While  the  mandarin  and  his  host  were  dis- 
cussing in  whispers  what  they  should  say  to 
pacify  the  people,  a  stir  arose  at  the  door  and 
all  the  other  petitioners  stood  on  one  side  to 
allow  of  the  entrance  of  a  venerable  dame  in 
costly  satins  and  silks,  who  was  carried  in  on  the 
back  of  her  maid,  as  her  small  feet  prevented 
her  walking  even  so  far  as  from  her  chair  to  the 
inner  apartment  without  assistance.  Her  age 
and  social  position  as  the  widow  of  a  landed 
proprietor  made  the  step  she  had  taken  of 
coming  personally  to  obtain  redress  a  most 
unusual  one,  and  her  high  rank  caused  the 
mandarin  to  promptly  order  a  seat  to  be  pro- 
vided for  her  while  she  presented  a  statement  of 
her  case  in  writing,  according  to  custom. 

It  was  a  very  simple  story  that  she  set  forth. 
Her  grandson,  the  only  male  left  of  her  once 
numerous    family,    had    been    asked    by    some 


IT   WAS   A   Vi-l.Y    hl.MlI.L    ;,ToKV    illAT    SHE    SET   I'UK  1  M. 


Iiowever  bad  a  .sailor  the  admiral  might  be 
(he  scarcely  ever  i)ut  to  sea),  he  was  undoubtedly 
a  very  good  mandarin,  one  who  tried  to  do 
justice  and  did  not  "  squeeze."  The  tepo,  too, 
was   an    upright    and    energetic    local    official. 


strangers  to  point  out  to  them  the  road  to  the  sea, 
and  being  a  good-natured  and  fearless  youth  he 
had  done  so — and  had  never  been  seen  since ! 

At  the  sight  of  the  poor  old  lady's  tears  my 
Ghinese    major    and    interpreter   could  restrain 


THE     MAXSTEAI.KRS. 


12- 


themselves  no  longer,  and  appealed  to  nic  to 
intervene  and  tell  the  lady  we  would  do  all  we 
could  for  her.  Unfortunately,  the  old  lady  spoke 
Hakka  and  understood  what  passed.  There- 
upon, with  piteous  tears  and  lamentations,  she 
seconded  their  appeal,  until  at  last,  quite  unable 
to  stand  the  painful  scene  any  longer,  I  proniised 
that  if  we  could  overhaul  the  slaver  I  would  take 
the  lad  out  of  her  by  force,  should  his  surrender 
be  refused.  I  added  that,  in  the  event  of  resist- 
ance being  made,  it  was  for  my  Chinese  major 
to  decide  what  should  be  done  with  the  rest  of 
the  kidnapped  young  men  on  board. 

This  decision  seemed  to  give  immense  relief 
to  all  present,  though,  as  the  chances  were,  even 
in  my  own  opinion,  ten  to  one  against  my  ever 
falling  in  with  the  slaver  at  all,  the  admiral's  and 
tepo's  compliments  seemed  to  be  equally  out  of 
place  with  the  delight  of  the  venerable  dame  and 
the  townspeople.  I  did  not,  however,  know  my 
Chinese  friends  quite  so  well  in  those  days  as  I 
came  to  do  afterwards. 

The  tepo  having  begged  me  to  leave  the 
supply  of  fresh  provisions  to  him,  and  the 
mandarin  pressing  me  to  return  to  his  own  ship 
for  the  morning  meal,   the  official  party   broke 

While  enjoying  an  excellent  breakfast  on 
board  the  admiral's  ship,  he  informed  me  that 
his  vessel  was  too  heavy  and  drew  too  much 
water  to  attempt  the  pursuit  of  the  fast  craft 
that  the  man-stealers  employed  with  any  chance 
of  success. 

"But,  Admiral  \Vang,"  I  said,  "you  must 
know  that  my  instructions  were  to  cruise  after 
the  Hing  Ti  pirates.  I  have  no  orders  to  meddle 
with  the  coolie  slavers,  and  unless  these  man- 
stealers  actually  knock  up  against  me  I  don't 
think  there's  any  chance  of  my  interfering  to 
any  purpose." 

Thereupon  it  seemed  to  me  that  the  admiral, 
major,  and  interpreter  exchanged  very  knowing 
glances. 

"  I  suppose  they  think  that  this  is  only  'save 
face'  talk,"  I  thought ;  then  added,  aloud,  "By 
the  way,  admiral,  where  does  report  say  these 
Hing  Ti  vessels  usually  are  to  be  found  just 
now  ?  " 

"  Somewhere  near  Samun,  captain,  I  have 
heard,"  rei)lied  the  admiral^ and  again  the 
look  seemed  to  pass  between  the  three — "  but 
I  fancy  nightfall  is  the  only  time  they  enter  the 
harbour  there,  when  they  are  intending  mis- 
chief." 

"  I  wonder,  admiral,"  I  continued,  "  that  you 
don't  rout  them  out  of  it  yourself.  This  is  a 
fine  new  vessel  ;  I  suppose  you  have  about 
three  hundred  and  fifty  men  in  her  ?  " 

But  the  admiral  adroitly  parried  my  incjuiry. 


"  Samun  is  just  outside  my  jurisdiction,  cai)- 
tain,"  he  said  ;  "  it  is  for  the  KouUmg  mandarin 
to  act.  I  have  no  small  steam  craft  at  my  ser- 
vice either,  and  the  harbour  entrance  would  be 
dangerous  for  this  vessel  unless  she  were  towed." 

I  looked  at  the  large,  lofty,  and  handsomely 
decorated  and  furnished  cabin,  and  as  I  noted 
the  expensive  black  wood  and  marble  furniture, 
the  beautiful  carving,  the  clock,  pictures, 
cushions,  fans,  and  altar,  all  of  the  costliest 
kind,  and  the  many  dishes  served,  I  realized 
that  this  ban  vivant  and  lover  of  his  ease  was 
hardly  the  man,  however  just  and  fair-dealing 
according  to  Chinese  standards,  to  curb  the 
pirates  and  man-stealers  of  that  notorious 
locality. 

After  an  enormous  number  of  dishes  had 
been  disposed  of,  the  admiral  and  his  Chinese 
guests  indulged  in  "just  one  pipe"  (of  opium) 
while  I  returned  on  board  my  ship  to  see  that 
all  was  ready  for  sailing  for  Samun  when  the 
tide  turned,  so  that  we  should  arrive  outside 
that  harbour  about  sunset.  I  found  that  not 
only  had  a  most  lavish  amount  of  fresh  supplies 
been  placed  on  board,  but  that,  to  my  astonish- 
ment, payment  had  been  refused  by  the  tepo's 
express  order ! 

"  Truly,  these  are  hospitable  folk  indeed, 
interpreter  !"  I  .remarked,  but  the  Hakka  did 
not  appear  at  all  astonished  either  at  the  abund- 
ance or  the  refusal  of  payment,  or,  stranger  still, 
at  the  enthusiastic  "  send-ofi""  accorded  to  the 
tx-Hed  Pirate  when  she  sailed.  It  never  struck 
Mr.  Interpreter  as  singular,  either,  that  so  much 
gong  beating,  cracker  firing,  demon-candle  and 
joss-stick  burning  should  proceed  from  the  folks 
on  shore  ! 

Samun  was  reached  just  before  dark,  and 
from  a  couple  of  fishing  vessels  anchored  outside 
we  extracted  the  information  that  a  suspicious- 
looking  craft,  evidently  full  of  men,  had  been 
seen  hovering  off  the  other  side  of  the  island, 
doubtless  intending  to  slip  into  the  harbour 
some  time  after  darkness  had  set  in. 

The  pilots  then  took  us  in  very  cleverly. 
After  anchoring  just  inside  by  a  single  light 
anchor  and  grass  cable,  I  set  the  watch  and 
picked  two  of  my  best  men  as  look-outs  to 
give  warning  of  any  stranger's  arrival.  About 
an  hour  or  so  before  eight  bells  they  reported 
that  a  large  and  apparently  fast  native  vessel 
was  bringing  to  under  the  land,  and  that  from 
the  way  she  was  handled  she  was  evidently 
strongly  manned.  The  distance  that  the 
stranger  anchored  at  and  the  precautions 
taken  on  board  her  to  escape  notice  caused 
me  to  have  little  doubt  that  she  was  a  piratical 
craft,    bent    on     mischief,    and    most    probably 


I2S 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


one  of  ihc  very  Hing  Ti  pirates  that  I  was  in 
search  of.     If  so,  I  was  indeed  in  luck's  way. 

Though  I  had  talcen  every  precaution  to 
avoid  attracting  notice,  yet  it  was  apparent  that 
the  stranger  was  suspicious  of  us  and  pre- 
pared to  run  out  to  sea  at  the  first  alarm,  and 
therefore  had  anchored  well  to  windward  of 
what  he  apparently  considered  to  be  a  possible 
enemy. 

At  midnight  all  was  quiet  on  board  the 
stranger,  not  even  a  single  light  being  visible 
on  the  low  hull,  then  merely  a  shapeless  object 
of  a  blackness  more  solid  than  the  shadow 
projected  by  the  high  rock  which  stood  out  in 
bold  relief  against  the  starlit  sky  behind  her. 
I  saw  that  our  halyards  and  ropes  were  clear, 
that  axes  lay  in  the  bow  beside  the  grass  cable, 
and  the  covers  merely  laid  over  the  guns,  which 
had  previously  been  carefully  loaded.  (jun- 
lanterns,  too,  were  trimmed  and  ready,  while 
beside  the  masthead  light  on  deck  was  the 
Dragon  flag,  ready  bent  on  to  the  halyards 
for  hoisting.  Then  I  lay  down  on  the  mat  my 
servants  had  placed  on  deck  for  me, 
rolled  myself  in  my  boat-cloak,  and 
slept  the  sleep  of  tired  youth,  till  a 
hand  lightly  laid  on  my  arm  and  a 
whisper,  "  The  stranger  is  hauling  in 
her  cable,  sir, 
roused    me   in 

order,  "  Cut  the  cable,  look  -  outs  ! 
Watch,  hoist  the  main-sail ! "  just  as 
our  former  neighbour,  who  was  already 
heeling  over  to  a  steady  breeze,  slipped 
outside  the  entrance  of  the  harbour. 
Then,  as  the  blows  of  the  axes  fell  on 
the  thick  "grass"  rope,  the  severed 
part  of  the  cable  rushed  through  the 
hawse-hole  overboard,  the  huge  sails, 
rapidly  hoisted,  as  quickly  filled,  and 
the  light  craft  forged  ahead  in  hot 
pursuit.  Tew  vessels  could  escape  the 
noted  Red  Pirate,  as  I  knew,  and  in 
less  than  half  an  hour  a  cable's  length 
only  divided  us  from  the  chase. 

'i'iien  the  Imperial  Dragon  flag  was 
run  up  under  the  mast-head  light,  and 
through  my  speaking  trumpet  I  ordered 
the  stranger  to  bring  to  and  show  his 
pai)ers.  I  received  the  not  altogether 
unexpected  reply  that  the  contents  of 
■A  hundred  foreign  rifles  and  the  shot 
from  her  deck  -  guns  were  the  only 
papers  any  official  who  tried  to  board 
their  vessel  would  see,  and  that  all 
mandarins,  and  their  master,  the  Em- 
peror, as  well,  might  do  something  not 
fit  for  ears  polite,  for  aught  that  the 
speaker  cared. 


I  waited  for  nothing  more,  but  ordered  the 
crew  of  the  midships  gun  to  try  and  knock  one 
of  this  insolent  stranger's  spars  out  of  him.  But 
before  it  could  be  trained  there  came  the  roar 
of  our  opponent's  broadside,  and  the  spattering 
fire  of  her  riflemen  knocked  sundry  holes  in 
sails,  cut  ropes,  and  splintered  deck  fittings, 
besides  dropping  two  of  the  men  at  the  sheets, 
and  this  unfortunately  allowed  the  chase  to 
increase  her  lead  very  appreciably.  The 
advantage  was  but  a  temporary  one,  however. 
My  disciplined  Chinese  speedily  warmed  to 
their  work,  and  convinced  that  I  had  now 
"  spotted  my  quarry  " — an  expression  that  quite 
"floored  "  the  interpreter,  by  the  way — I  ordered 
a  charge  of  canister  to  be  sent  home  after  each 
round  shot,  and  then  turned  the  twelve-pounder 
and  two  long  "sixes"  with  some  score  of  Snider 
breech-loading  rifles  on  to  our  big  antagonist. 

The  fire  then  grew  very  hot  indeed  for  a  time, 
as  the  enemy  had  four  or  five  muzzle-loaders 
for  every  single  breech-loader  we  possessed. 
Chinese  mixed   shot — iron   balls,  varying  from 


from  the  mterpreter, 
a   trice.      I   gave  the 


THE  SUI'EKIOK  TRAINING  AND   BETTER   WEAPONS  OF  MY  MEN  BEGAN  TO  TELL. 


'11  li:     MAX  STEALERS. 


1^9 


the  bi/c  of  a  biuull  orange  lo  lluil  ol'  a 
large  walnut^was  pitted  against  the  British 
"  canister." 

Both  vessels  were  now  running  along  the 
coast  of  the  mainland  and  pretty  close  to  the 
shore,  while  the  mist  coming  off  it  had  obscured 
the  waning  light  of  the  stars,  so  that  the  flashes 
of  her  big  guns  and  musketry  fire  were  the 
only  means  by  which  we  could  ascertain  our 
opponent's  position.  But,  as  the  chill  grey 
light  of  early  dawn  began  to  appear,  and  grew 
stronger  and  clearer  momentarily,  the  superior 
training  and  disci- 
pline and  better 
weajjonsof  my  men 
began  to  tell  the 
inevitable  tale. 
True,  our  antago- 
nist was  more  than 
double  our  si/e  and 
had  more  t  ha  n 
twice  as  many  men, 
but  his  low  "  side- 
boards," instead  of 
the  higher  bulwarks 
that  had  been  fitted 
on  the  Q.\-  Red 
Pirate,  proved  a 
fatal  drawback 
when  the  d  a  y 
dawned  fully,  and 
guns  could  be  ac- 
curately laid  and 
rifies  sighted  cor- 
rectly. Then  her 
men  literally  fell  in 
heaps  round  her 
guns,  the  guns 
themselves  were 
dismounted,  and 
finally,  when  her 
mainmast  fell  with 
a  crash  across  her 
deck,  all  conceit  of 
fight  was  knocked 
out  of  her,  and  the  helmsman  was  seen  to  run 
his  vessel  deliberately  on  a  huge  rock,  while 
the  survivors  of  the  crew  lowered  their  least- 
injured  boats  and  made  frantically  for  the  land. 
The  vessel  herself  remained  fast  on  a  reef  of 
rock  some  thousand  or  eight  hundred  yards  only 
from  the  low,  sandy  shores  of  a  small  bay. 

Our  two  whale-boats  were  cjuickly  launched 
and  following  in  hot  pursuit,  a  heavy  fire 
being  turned  on  the  men  escaping  in  the 
"  sampans."  Meanwhile,  the  sound  of  the  firing 
had  drawn  numbers  of  peojjle  from  the  villages 
near.  Many  of  the  clansmen  aj)peared  armed 
with  matchlocks,  gingals,  spears,   or  bamboos. 

Vol.  xi.-17. 


THEY   Ari'EAKED   TO    liECO.ME    ALMOST   FKANTIC   WITH    1  EKROK. 


being  apparently  apprehensive  that  their  villages 
were  the  object  of  an  attack. 

Seeing  that  it  was  impossible  to  overtake  the 
two  "  sampans,"  Major  ^^'ong  and  I  raced  our 
boats  for  the  stranded  vessel.  As  we  clambered 
up  her  side  her  deck  presented  a  fearful  sight, 
dead  and  dying  men  lying  in  all  directions. 

But  what  was  this  terrible  noise  ?  It  seemed 
as  if  a  perfect  pandemonium  were  contained 
under  the  hatches  of  the  ship  !  Shrieks, 
screams,  groans,  and  cries  of  despair  ascended 
continually  from  below  our  feet. 

Then,  in  a  single 
instant,  the  real 
character  of  the 
vessel  dawned 
upon  me,  and  I 
understood  fully 
the  meaning  of  the 
generous  behaviour 
of  the  natives  of 
Pinghoi  towards 
me.  This  was  not 
a  Hing  Ti  pirate, 
but  a  coolie  slaver. 
Next  moment, 
however,  humanity 
asserted  itself. 
Seizing  a  n  axe, 
while  the  major, 
the  interpreter,  and 
the  men  caught  \\\) 
choppers,  iron  bars, 
or  the  broad,  chop- 
per-like swords  of 
the  dead  man- 
stealers,  I  set  to 
work,  and  crashing 
blows  were  soon 
falling  on  hatch 
covers  and  the 
wooden  bars  secur- 
ing them.  Not  a 
moment  was  to  be 
lost,  either,  if  the 
wretched  creatures  confined  below  in  the  hold 
were  to  be  saved,  for  the  captured  coolie  slaver 
was  now  taking  water  fast,  and  the  rapidly  rising 
flood  would  soon  place  all  in  her  hold  beyond 
human  aid. 

As  the  daylight  began  to  penetrate  to  them 
the  wretched  captives  underneath  redoubled 
their  cries  and  prayers  lor  help.  At  last,  when 
the  hatches  were  fairly  battered  to  pieces,  they 
appeared  to  become  almost  frantic  with  terror  at 
the  rising  water.  But  presently  the  men  were 
springing  down  into  that  awful  inferno,  and 
cutting  the  ropes  by  which  its  unfortunate 
occupants  were  lashed  to  iron  rings. 


f^^o 


Tin:     VVIDE    WOKLI)     -MAC.AZINE. 


Over  six  score  pour  creatures,  many  of  them 
mere  lads,  and  all  exhausted  by  hunger  and 
suffering  horribly  from  thirst,  were  got  up  on 
deck.  One  unfortunate  victim  of  the  coolie 
slavers'  brutality  had  already  succumbed. 

When  some  of  the  rescued  prisoners  were  able 
to  speak,  they  stated  that  more  than  two  hundred 
of  their  companions  had  been  taken  to  the 
barracoons  at  Macao,  but  that  they,  not  having 
been  accustomed  to  manual  labour,  were  not 
considered  of  sufficiently  robust  physique,  or 
were  too  young  to  be  fit  for  coolie  labour  in  the 
mines,    and   they   had   therefore  been  rejected. 


instant  that  the  captain  of  the  slaver,  wiili  some 
dozen  or  fourteen-of  his  men,  set  foot  on  land 
they  were  assailed  by  hundreds  of  furious  men, 
and  even  women,  who  had  recognised  their 
vessel.  Their  weapons  were  beaten  from  their 
hands,  and  they  were  literally  torn  to  pieces 
by  way  of  revenge  for  the  countless  homes  they 
had  made  desolate.  The  treasure-chest  which 
they  had  taken  on  shore  with  them  was  appro- 
priated for  the  benefit  of  the  mothers  or  wives 
of  those  who  had  lost  their  sole  support  through 
these  wretches  having  kidnapped  their  sons  or 
husbands. 


TllliY    \Vi:kl',    ASSAILED    BY   HUNDREDS   OK    l-URIOUS   MEN. 


So  the  man-stealers  had  risked  bringing  them 
back  to  see  if  a  ransom  could  be  extorted  from 
their  friends  before  they  were  all  thrown  over- 
board to  make  room  for  a  fresh  cargo  ! 

Despite  my  grievous  disappointment  in 
missing  the  pirates,  I  bore  no  malice  against  the 
I'inghoi  folks  who  had  put  me  on  the  slaver's 
track  so  successfully.  I  was  very  glad  to  find 
that  the  grandson  of  the  white-haired  old  dame 
who  had  come  so  far  to  plead  her  cause  was 
amongst  those  rescued,  as  indeed  were  the  rela- 
tives of  most  of  the  people  who  had  presented 
their  petitions  to  the  mandarin  the  day 
previously. 

My  attention  was  now  drawn  to  a  remarkable 
tragedy  that    was    being  enacted  ashore.     The 


Curiously  enough,  the  Chinese  admiral  and 
my  major  gained  great  "kudos"  by  the  capture 
of  this  notorious  man  stealer  ;  while — save  an 
expression  of  mild  disappointment  and  dis- 
satisfaction from  the  authorities  at  my  failure  to 
capture  the  pirates,  and  some  sarcastic  chaff  from 
my  cronies  anent  "shooting  at  the  hawk  and 
hitting  the  carrion  crow  ''—I  got  nothing.  Never- 
theless, I  was  not  ill-pleased  at  my  mistake. 

Moreover,  the  laugh  was  eventually  on  my 
side,  for  it  was  discovered  that  the  captain  of 
the  man-stealer  was  none  other  than  a  notorious 
Hing  Ti  leader  who  for  a  year  past  had  l)een, 
in  his  fishion,  "  lying  low  "  since  the  capture  of 
three  of  his  confederates  !  So  that  I  scored 
after  all  ! 


The  author,  accompanied  by  a  young  backwoodsman,  penetrated  into  the 
heart  of  a  vast  morass  known  as  "  Big  Indian  Swamp,"  in  search  of  trout. 
The  pair  got  separated  in  this  great  wilderness  of  mud  and  vegetation,  and  death 
in  two   horrible   forms  menaced   the  author  ere  he  was   able    to   rejoin   his   companion. 


IKE  COUNTY,  in  Pennsylvania,  is 
only  one  hundred  miles  from  New 
York  and  Philadelphia,  with  their 
millions  of  souls,  yet  the  greater 
part    of     it    is 


practically  a  virgin  wilder- 
ness. A  single  railroad 
touches  its  soil,  and 
that  only  just  within  the 
borders.  With  the  excep- 
tion of  a  few  hundred  per- 
sons, its  less  than  ten 
thousand  of  population  is 
massed  along  a  narrow  strip 
of  land  bordering  the  Dela- 
ware and  I.ackawa.xen 
rivers.  Its  one  town,  in 
which  the  county  court 
assembles,  contains  fewer 
than  a  thousand  persons. 

The  Blue  Ridge  Moun- 
tains occupy  the  entire 
county,  and,  save  fur  a  few 
clearings,  tiie  rugged  hills 
are  covered  by  a  thick 
growth  of  forest  trees  and 
tangled  underbrush.  Within 
the  miles  of  thickets  and 
woods  are  bears,  panthers. 


I  lit  IIO.N.   VV.   li.    .Ml-.liHA.\,   I  ISII  Cu.M.MISSIOM 
OK    FENNSVI.VANIA,    TO   WHOM    THE 
ADVKNTURK    HAITENKD. 

From    a    Photo,    by    Berber. 


catamounts,  deer,   rattlesnakes,  and  other  wild 
animals  and  reptiles. 

The  county  is  plentifully  studded  with  small 
mountain    lakes    and    streams,    abounding    in 

char,  or  speckled  trout.     It 
is  a  paradise  for  sportsmen. 
But  there  is  a  dark  side 
to    the    picture.       In    the 
valleys  there  are  multitudes 
of    luige    swamps,    densely 
overgrown      with     willows, 
alders,  swamp-maples,   and 
rhododendrons,      often 
nearly  impassable  for  man. 
There  grim  death  waits  for 
the  unwary.     Beneath   the 
network    of      undergrowth 
are   treacherous  quagmires 
filled  with  coze  so  fine  and 
liquid     that,    when 
scooped    up    in     the 
hand,     it    will    run 
almost    as    freely    as 
water.      These  quag- 
r       mires    are   the  death- 
traps of  Pike  County. 
They  are   charnel- 
houses  for  cattle  and 
wild  animals.     It  is  a 


V 


132 


Till.    WlDi:     WORLD     MACA/.IKE. 


frequent  occurrence  for  a  herd  of  cows  to 
return  in  the  evening  from  the  woods  with  one 
or  more  of  its  number  missing.  l"he  backwoods 
owner  knows,  without  seeking,  that  the  absentees 
liave  been  caught  and  smothered  in  one  of  the 
deadly  "  quags,"  as  the  mires  are  locally  named. 
It  is  useless  to  search  for  the  bodies.  The  mud 
closes  over  the  doomed  creatures  more  swiftly 
than  quicksand,  and  the  surface  smooths  imme- 
diately and  leaves  no  more  of  a  sign  than  water. 
Some  years  ago  I  was  in  Pike  County  on  a 
fishing  trip.  My  abiding-place  was  a  small 
backwoods  resort  for  men  who  were  willing  to 
undergo  hardships  and  enjoy  simple  fare  for  the 
sake  oi'  the  glorious  sport  and  health-giving,  pine- 
scented  air.  The  house  stood  on  the  shore  of 
a  picturesque  lake  teeming  with  pickerel  and 
other  fish.  It  was  kept  by  an  aged  man, 
familiarly 
called  "Wil- 
liam K.,"  and 
a  nephew 
"Billy  J."  Billy 
was  a  stalwart 
backwoods- 
man, who  re- 
verenced a 
tireless,  enthu- 
siastic fisher- 
m  a  n  and 
a  bom  in  ated 
anyone  whose 
fishing  ardour 
was     confined 


As  a  rule,  the  victim,  on  returning  to  the  house 
so  worn  out  that  he  could  scarcely  drag  one 
foot  after  the  other,  would  pack  his  valise  and 
flee  that  part  of  the  country  as  soon  as  he 
could  secure  a  conveyance.  Billy  J.  invariably 
watched  the  departure  with  satisfaction,  and 
remarked  to  some  chosen  spirit  :— 

*' There  !  I  guess  that  dude  won't  come  back 
here  in  a  hurry." 

Once  in  a  while  Billy  J.  would  fail  to  "kill" 
his  victim — perhaps  would  be  "killed"  in  turn. 
But  such  a  misadventure  afforded  him  only 
satisfaction.  He  would  calmly  confess  to  the 
victim  what  he  had  attempted  to  do  and  instal 


HUNTERS   RANGE,    PIKE   COUNTY,    WIIKKE   THE    AUTHOR    STAYED 

From  a  Photo. 


to  words  or  a  track-beaten  stream  flowing  through 
cultivated  lands. 

Billy  J.  exhibited  an  unworldly  disposition 
to  go  fishing  with  a  tireless  angler,  and  to 
"  kill  "  or  drive  from  the  region  all  "  kid-glove  " 
followers  of  Izaak  Walton.  'When  he  found  a 
fisherman  after  his  own  heart  he  would  inconti- 
nently forsake  the  primitive  sawmill  where  he 
worked,  no  matter  how  many  railroad  ties  there 
were  to  cut  on  urgent  orders,  and  go  a-trouting, 
without  the  slightest  expectation  or  desire  of 
being  paid  for  his  services  as  guide. 

His  metliod  of  "kilHng"  an  undesirable 
visitor  was  both  simple  and  effective.  He 
would  either  wait  to  be  engnged  at  so  much  for 
the  day,  or  invite  the  luckless  stranger  to  go 
trouting  and  lead  him,  through  dense  tangles  of 
underbrush  and  fallen  trees,  to  the  roughest  fish- 
ing-grounds, and  keep  him  on  tiie  move  all  day. 


him  on  the 
pinnacle  of 
his  favour. 

Billy  J. 
s  u  b  jec  ted 
me  to  his 
mere  i  1  e  s  s 
ireatm  e  n  t 
the  second 
day  after 
my  arrival ; 
but,  as  I  was 
no  stranger 
to  that  part 
of  the  coun- 
try, I  came 
out  with  flying  colours.  Billy  was  happy  in  gain- 
ing another  companion.  \Vith  his  acknowledg- 
ment of  equality  he  declared  that  as  long  as  I 
was  in  the  woods  "  it  wouldn't  cost  me  a  cent 
for  a  guide,  and  he  meant  to  be  the  guide." 

After  that  he  was  my  constant  companion  on 
the  trout  stream,  and  many  an  adventure  we 
had  together. 

Billy  J.  had.  either  through  the  inspiration 
of  his  uncle  or  his  own  conscience,  devoted  two 
days  faithfully  to  the  sawmill  and  commenced 
bravely  on  a  third  ;  but  I  concluded  it  was  time 
to  interrupt  him.  I  had  a  daring  project  in  my 
mind,  to  which  he  formed  a  very  neces-sary 
atljunct. 

I  found  him  among  flying  sawdust  and 
whirring  machinery.  Seating  myself  on  a  con- 
venient pile  of  boards,  I  watched  him  silently 
for  a  while  and  then  remarked,  casually: — 


In    rill.   (.KM'   oi'    riii;   oi  acmIrL:. 


133 


"  Dilly  |.,  1  liLar  llig  Indian  Swamp  has  a  rinc 
still-water  full  of  trout." 

'l"he  backwoodsman,  labouring  at  an  uncon- 
genial task,  stop|>e(l  the  whirring  circular  saw 
in  record  time,  turned  as  though  he  had  been 
shot,  and  stared  at  me  with  blank  amazement. 

"l>ig  Indian  I  What  d(j  you  mean  by  that? 
What  foolishness  have  you  in  your  head  now  ? 
1  )o  you  mean  to  have  a  try  for  the  place  ? 
1  )on't  you  know  "—excitedly — "  it  can't  be 
clone  ?  Don't  you  know  that  no  man  has  dared 
to  push  through  the  swamp  to  that  there  still- 
water  ?  ■' 

"  Ves,  I  know  what  they  say.  I  also  under- 
stand that  no  man  has  thus  far  dared  to  try  ; 


A 


'■  it  you  don't  care  to  make  the  attempt  with  me 
at  some  other  part  of  the  swamp  I  dare  say  I 
can  get  Abe  Heater  to  go  along.  He  suggested 
it,  anyway." 

'i'hat  was  a  master  stroke.  Abe  was  a  rival. 
Billy  flashed  out,  hotly  :  — 

"  Abe  Heater  !  He  can't  do  it.  Why,  you 
'  killed  '  him  down  on  Saw  .Swamp  last  week,  and 
he  won't  dare  to  try  Big  Indian  ;  it's  ten  times 
worse.  I  guess,  if  you  have  made  up  your  mind 
to  go,  I'm  the  man  that  goes  along.  Only," 
he  added,  "  you'd  better  fix  your  will  first, 
because  plenty  of  cattle  have  gone  in  there  and 
never  come  out." 

"  But,"  I  objected,  out  of  pure  devilry,  "  how 
about  that  load  of  ties  William  R.  wants  cut  in 
a  hurry  ?  " 


•-> 


but  a  woman  did  last  winter,  and  succeeded,"  1 
replied,  scathingly. 

Billy's  face  flushed. 

"You  mean  Sally  Hobday?  \'es,  I  know 
she  did  ;  but  then  Sally  went  in  with  a  boat 
when  there  was  water  enough  above  to  let  her 
drift  over  the  shallows.     You  can't  do  it  now." 

"  \\  hy  can't  we  wade  down  the  shallows  ?  " 

"Soft  mud  bottom,  deeper'n  you  are," 
answered  Billy,  in  a  tone  that  was  meant  to 
settle  the  question. 

"Oh,  well,"  1  said,  with  apparent  indifference, 


THE  I'IKE  COUNTY  WILDERNESS — IT  WAS   IS"  THIS  KIND  OF  COUNTKV 
IHAT   THE   GUIDE    HILLY    "  KILLED"    SYBARITIC   SPORTSMEN. 

Ftom  a  Photo. 


''William  K.  can  want!  We'll  do  Big  Indian 
to-morrow.  What's  more.  111  lay  off  work  now 
and  dig  a  lot  of  worms  for  the  trip." 

Later  William  R.,  to  his  pained  surprise, 
found  his  ne{)hew  diligently  grubbing  with  a 
pick  in  the  potato  patch  behind  the  house, 
filling  old  tomato  cans  with  wriggling  worms, 
instead  of  sweating  in  the  now  silent  sawmill. 

We  started  next  morning,  long  before  day- 
light, and  reached  the  edge  of  the  great  swamp 
as  the  sun  was  rising  above  the  surrounding 
ridges.  Big  Indian  was  not  an  inviting-looking 
tract.  Rank  vegetation  grew  to  its  very  edges, 
with  tightly  interlaced  branches.  A  heavy, 
unhealthy  mist  overhung  tlie  tree-tops  for  its 
whole  length  and  breadth.  Strange  and  uncanny 


134 


'III 


WIDi:     WORLD     MAdA/lXl':. 


sounds  came  from  lis  mysterious  depths.  They 
could  not  be  described,  nor  were  they  actually 
terrifying;  but  they  were  at  least  depressing  to 
us  who  were  about  to  penetrate  to  the  heart  of 
the  tangled  morass  and  its  hidden  dangers. 

I  think  Billy  J.  would  have  been  glad  if  at 
that  time  I  had  suggested  the  abandonment 
of  the  trip.  I  know  1  would  not  have  been 
sorry  if  he  had  made  a  similar  suggestion.  But 
we  were  both  silent,  probably  because  each  was 
afraid  of  ridicule  from  the  other.  So,  after  a 
short  rest  and  a  smoke,  we  sought  a  place 
where  we  might  begin  the  attack  with  the  least 
expenditure  of  labour. 

We  skirted  the  edge  of  the  swamp  for  possibly 
a  quarter  of  a  mile  without  success,  when 
Billy  J.  gave  a 
w  hoop  and 
pointed  to  a 
very  slight  in- 
dentation in  the 
wall  of  green 
bushes  and  a 
few  broken 
twigs. 

"Here   we 
are  !"    he   ex- 
claimed,   excit- 
edly. "I  believe 
we  are  going  to  do  it 
easy    after     all,    for 
here's  a   bear's  path 
that  leads  right  in." 

Parting  the  bushes, 
he  pointed  out  a 
narrow,  deep  path 
among  the  moss,  fern, 
and  rhododendron 
tangle. 

It  was  a  find  in- 
deed, for  it  meant  a 
reduction  of  the  diffi- 
culties by  at  least  75 

per  cent.  I  did  not  ask  for  the  whereabouts  of 
the  bear.  During  that  time  of  the  year  little  black 
Bruin  is  inclined  to  be  a  coward,  and,  if  not 
come  upon  unawares,  he  makes  himself  scarce. 
It  was,  therefore,  without  any  premonition  of 
trouble  or  danger  that  we  plunged  into  the 
thicket  and  followed  the  trail  made  by  the 
clumsy  feet  of  the  black  bear  of  Pennsylvania. 

It  soon  became  evident  that,  if  we  had  not 
found  the  bear-path,  we  never  could  have 
penetrated  the  swamp.  As  it  was,  the  diffi- 
culties we  encountered  were  frequently  dis- 
heartening. Fallen,  rotting  logs,  rhododendrons, 
and  deadly  "quags"  impeded  our  progress. 
More  than  once  we  experienced  ugly  falls.  An 
unwary  step   sent    Billy  waist   deep  in   a   foul- 


long   cane 


THE       STII.I.-WATEK       IN    lilG    INDIAN    SWAMl' 
SH)W1NG        KINGS       MADK      BY      "bKEAKING 

J''roin  a]  tkout.  [Photo. 


smelling  mire,  from  which  I  extricated  hun  with 
much  exertion.  We  were  more  than  two  hours 
in  traversing  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  and  we  were 
very  tired  when  at  length  we  caught  a  glim[)se 
of  shining  water  among  the  leaves  ahead.  Our 
spirits  revived.  In  a  few  minutes  we  were  peer- 
ing through  the  thickets  at  the  prettiest  trout 
pool  I  had  ever  seen,  It  was  like  a  long, 
narrow  lake.  In  places  it  was  more  than  a 
hundred  feet  wide,  and  the  water  held  a 
delicate  tinge  of  brown.  It  was  studded  with 
the  ripples  made  by  "  breaking  "  trout. 

Billy  J.   and    I    looked   at   each   other   with 
satisfaction. 

"  I'm   glad   we   came,"   said    Billy.      "  It   was 
worth  the  trouble,  for  we'll  get  lashin's  of  trout 

out  of  this  here 
hole  ;  see  if  we 
don't.  Only 
we'll  have  to 
yank  'em  when 
we  have  played 
'em  out.  We 
can  never  use  a 
landin'  net  with 
the  bushes  and 
the 
andes." 

W't  had  not 
brought  jointed 
rods  with  us. 
T  hey  would 
have  been  out 
of  place  in  such 
a  swam[).  In- 
stead, we  had 
chosen  cane 
angle  poles, 
about  sixteen 
feet  long,  with 
guides  fastened 
every  foot  or  so. 
AVe  tied  our 
reels  hastily  to  the  butts,  ran  the  lines  through  the 
guides,  baited  the  hooks  with  good,  honest,  fat 
worms,  and  dropped  them  in  the  beer-brown 
water.  Instantly  I  felt  a  vicious  tug,  and  a 
twelve-inch  trout  was  thrashing  around  at  a 
lively  rate.  P.illy  J.  found  himself  struggling 
with  a  fish  equally  large.  \\  e  hauled  the  i)rizes 
over  the  bushes  about  the  same  time.  For  two 
hours  we  had  great  s[)ort.  The  trout  bit 
hungrily  and  fought  savagely.  Our  baskets 
became  heavy  with  spoil.  At  length  the  fish 
grew  wary  and  took  hold  only  at  long 
intervals. 

Billy   J.    met    the  changed    condition    philo- 
sophically. 

"They'll  come  to  us  again  after  a  while,"  he 


i\  'II IK  cRii"  OF    rm:  olacmiki-: 


135 


remarked;  "  su  I'll  just  lix  up  a  cut  bait,  set 
my  pole,  and  take  a  snooze." 

He  acted  on  the  inspiration.  In  a  few 
minutes  he  was  fast  asleep.  IJut  I  was  much 
younger  than  he,  and,  to  my  shame  be  it  said, 
the  lust  of  killing  was  strong  upon  me.  Perhaps 
if  the  trout  would  not  bite  at  that  point  they 
might  elsewhere.  With  this  thought  1  unrigged 
the  line  and  pushed  my  way  up  the  swam[) 
through  the  thick  masses  of  bushes  and  ferns. 

The  stream  was  lost  sight  of,  but  that  gave 
me  small  concern,  for  I  believed  it  would  soon 
be  met  again.  In  about  fifteen  minutes  I  found 
a  running  brook,  but  there  were  no  still-waters 
—only  a  broad,  shallow  creek  with  a  hard,  rocky 
bottom.  Evidently  I  had  passed  above  the  still- 
waters.     I   had   heard   that   there  were   two  of 


and  hung  low.  I  had  proceeded  in  this  manner 
for  perhaps  half  a  mile,  when  certain  signs  con- 
vinced me  I  was  not  wading  the  main  creek,  but 
a  tributary. 

The  discovery  gave  me  such  a  shock  that  I 
lost  my  head.  Instead  of  turning  around  and 
retracing  my  footsteps,  I  endeavoured  to  strike 
the  mam  creek  by  cutting  across  the  swamp. 
In  less  than  the  time  it  takes  to  tell  it  I  was 
completely  lost,  with  not  the  faintest  idea  of 
the  direction  in  which  to  go.  The  trees  arched 
themselves  closely  overhead  and  prevented  me 
from  seeing  either  the  sky  or  sun.  The  trunks 
and  stems  did  not  permit  me  to  look  far  ahead. 
Still  I  pushed  on,  trying  to  guide  myself  by  trees 
and  hoping  every  minute  to  come  again  to  the 
edge  of  either  the  still-water  or  the  swamp. 

For  a  couple  of  hours  I  floundered  aimlessly 
through    thickets   until    completely    bewildered. 


THE    DEADLY    "(^LAO"    INTO    WHICH   MR.    MEEHAN'    FKI.I..  v     w\ 

From  a  Photo. 


these  bodies  in  the  IJig  Indian,  and  the  shallows, 
I  naturally  concluded,  formed  the  neck  separat- 
ing them.  I  went  on  confidently,  anticipating 
more  exciting  sport  with  the  trout. 

Presently  the  stream  divided  into  half-a-dozen 
arms.  I  followed  the  widest,  travelling  in  a 
stooping  position,  for  the   bushes  were   matted 


Then  I  saw  light  ahead  and  made  towards  it. 
To  my  disgust  I  was  confronted  with  a  field  of 
willows  growing  among  a  group  of  the  worst 
"  quags  "  I  had  ever  encountered.  Beyond,  I 
fancied  I  caught  a  glimpse  of  the  still-water,  and 
determined  to  brave  the  perils  of  the  ooze-pits 
to  reach  it.     I  found  a  partly  rotten  branch  as 


136 


THE    WIDE    WUREI)    ALACA/JNE. 


thick  as  my  arm,  laid  it  across  the  first  hole,  and, 
catching  a  handful  of  willow  branches  to  steady 
me,  made  my  way  cautiously  over. 

I  passed  several  treacherous  mires  in  this 
manner  when,  through  an  opening,  I  perceived 
that  which  made  my  heart  leap  with  pleasure. 
It  was  not  the  looked- for  still-water,  but  the  top 
of  a  huge  yellow  pine,  a  tree  that  grows  only  on 
high  ground.  It  was  a  place  of  safety.  J  was 
on  the  edge  of  the  swamp ;  in  a  few  moments 
my  troubles  would  be  over.  There  was  only 
one  drawback  to  my  satisfaction.  It  was  a 
"  quag "  fully  ten  feet  across  and,  beyond,  a 
second  nearly  as  wide.  My  portable  bridge 
was  not  long  enough  to  extend  over  either.  I 
looked  about  me  for  another  and  found  one  I 
thought  might  serve,  although  it  was  farther 
gone  in  decay  than  the  stick  I  had  been  using. 
I  laid  it  over  the  mud  and,  as  before,  caught 
several  swaying  branches  of  an  overhanging 
willow  and  began  the  uncertain  passage. 

Half-way  over  the  bridge  suddenly  broke,  and 
I  was  in  the  grasp  of  the  deadly  quagmire. 

Before  I  could  utter  a  cry — almost  before  I 
realized  my  deadly  peril— the  slimy  mud  closed 
over  my  head.  The  ooze  entered  my  ears  and 
nostrils  and  stopped  my  breathing.  Beneath 
my  feet  there  was  apparently  no  bottom.  I 
could  feel  the  ooze  creeping  up  my  arm  beyond 
the  elbow  and  towards  the  wrist.  Despair, 
deep  and  dreadful,  nearly  stilled  my  heart- beats. 
I  was  still  sinking.  Nevertheless,  I  clung  con- 
vulsively to  the  branches  of  the  willow.  They 
were  frail  and  brittle,  and  might  break  at  any 
moment. 

Then  I  had  another  dreadful  shock.  Some- 
thing struck  against  the  back  of  my  head.  With 
my  left  hand  I  reached  up  and  found  it  was  my 
creel.  It  had  caught  on  a  submerged  piece  of 
wood  and  held  while  I  sank.  Perhaps  it  was  my 
salvation,  for  almost  instantly  I  ceased  to  sink, 
although  there  was  still  no  bottom  for  my  feet. 

The  willow  branches  were  bearing  the  strain. 
I  began  to  pull.  |To  my  inexpressible  joy  I 
felt  myself  rising.  My  head  emerged  from  the 
mud  into  the  blessed  light  and  air. 

A\'ith  my  left  hand  I  cleared  away  some  of 
the  ooze  from  my  fact  and  nostrils,  and  drew  a 
long,  deep  breath  of  life-sustaining  air.  It  was 
none  too  soon,  for  I  was  nearly  suffocated. 

By  the  aid  of  the  friendly  branches  I  raised 
myself  higher,  and  with  my  left  hand  seized 
what  appeared  to  be  a  stronger  limb.  It 
scarcely  felt  my  weight  when  it  broke.  Once 
more  I  sank  beneath  the  foul  "quag." 

Again  the  slimy,  semi-liquid  ooze  surrounded 
me,  sucking  me  down,  filling  my  ears  and  nose, 
smothering  me  in  its  soft,  fatal  embrace.  My 
head    seemed   as   though  it   would    burst ;   my 


lungs  gave  me  exquisite  pain.  I  gave  myself  up 
t(j  death.  Fortunately  I  had  not  relinquished 
hold  of  the  other  branches.  As  before,  they 
sustained  me  in  my  time  of  dire  extremity. 
Once  more  by  their  friendly  aid  I  was  enabled 
to  draw  my  head  above  the  surface. 

I  tried  another  branch  and,  this  holding, 
pulled  myself  slowly  towards  the  base  of  the 
willow,  where  the  roots"  would  give  a  secure  loot- 
ing. There  was  little  resistance  and  no  more 
suction. 

Slowly,  inch  by  inch,  I  drew  myself  forward 
for  a  foot  or  more,  and  was  beginning  to  hope 
for  life,  when  something  curled  up  on  the  roots 
before  me  made  me  cease  my  labour.  It  was  a 
huge  rattlesnake,  coiled,  watching,  and  ready 
for  a  spring  as  soon  as  1  should  be  near  enough  ! 
One  foot  more  and  my  face  would  be  within 
reach  of  its  deadly  fangs. 

The  ugly  flat,  triangular  head  was  bent  far 
back  in  readiness  to  strike  the  fatal  blow.  Its 
beady  black  eyes  glinted  cold,  baleful  glances. 
Its  rattles  sang  ominously. 

I  was  in  a  desperate  predicament,  from  which 
there  seemed  no  escape.  Death  was  my  com- 
panion, visible  in  two  horrible  forms.  Beneath 
and  around  me  was  the  awful  "  quag  ''  ,  before 
me  the  swift,  fatal  venom  of  a  rattlesnake.  No 
man  in  mid  ocean,  floating  on  a  raft,  alone  and 
without  food,  could  have  felt  his  situation  more 
desperate  than  I,  armpit -deep  in  fathomless 
slime,  gazing  into  the  glittering,  pitiless 
eyes  of  that  reptile,  a  few  feet  away.  How 
long  I  hung  there  gazing  at  the  serpent 
I  do  not  know.  Perhaps  it  was  ten  minutes. 
Without  ceasing,  the  metallic,  vibrant  notes  of 
the  rattles  fell  upon  my  ears.  Occasionally  the 
forked  tongue  of  the  snake  darted  from  its 
mouth  like  flashes  of  red  lightning.  Momen- 
tarily I  expected  to  see  the  wicked  spring.  One 
thought  alone  gave  me  a  grain  of  comfort :  the 
snake  was  too  far  away  to  reach  me  on  the  first 
strike,  and,  if  it  were  made,  the  ooze-pit  might 
hold  the  reptile  in  its  embrace. 

I  determined  that,  if  I  had  to  make  a  choice, 
I  would  meet  death  in  the  mud,  for  suffocation 
was  to  be  preferred  to  the  venom  of  a  rattle- 
snake. I  have  seen  one  person  die  from  snake- 
bite, and  the  sight  was  shocking  in  the  extreme. 

Suddenly  my  eyes  caught  sight  of  the  fishing- 
pole,  lying,  half-buried,  within  easy  reach. 
Hope  once  more  came  to  me.  If  only  I  dared 
free  my  right  hand  !  I  must.  It  was  my  only 
chance.  The  rattlesnake  exhibited  no  disposi- 
tion to  depart.  It  was  its  death  or  mine,  with 
the  odds  greatly  in  favour  of  the  reptile. 
Slowly  I  brought  my  two  arms  together ;  the 
serpent  watched  closely  every  move.  Inch  by 
inch    I    brought    my  arms    together    until    they 


1\   'iiii:   cikir   ()!•    iiii;   oUAdMiuE. 


137 


touched,  ;ukI  I  coukl  grasp  the  hfe-saving 
brandies  in  my  left  hand.  To  my  joy  I 
aceoniphshed  this  without  disaster. 

Watehing  every  movement  of  the  reptile  as 
intently  as  it  did  mine,  I  reached  cautiously  for 
the  pole  and  grasped  it. 

Lifting  myself  with  a  supreme  effort  I  raised 
the  weapon  and  struck  as  vigorously  as  I  could. 
The  serpent  saw  the  descending  pole  and  gave 
a  vicious  leap.  The  spring  made  its  undoing 
certain.  The  thin,  flexible  bamboo  caught  it 
fairly  in  mid-air  across  the  neck,  breaking  the 
vertebne. 

Ikit  my  peril  was  still  great,  for,  lying  at  full 
length,  the  head  of  the  reptile  was  not  more 
than  a  foot  away  from  my  face.  Its  death- 
struggles  carried  it  still  nearer.  Again  I  brought 
the  cane  into  pkay,  with  the  desperation  of 
despair.  Reversing  the  rod,  I  pushed  the  butt 
beneath  the  writhing  body  and  succeeded  in 
hurling  it  to  a  safe  distance. 

The  effort  and  narrow  escape  from  poison  left 
mj  faint  for  some  moments.  It  was  with  the 
greatest  difticulty  that  I  clung  to  the  willow 
branches.  In  time  I  felt  better,  and  resumed 
my  dangerous  passage  of  the  quagmire. 

Presently,  to  my  uiexpressible  joy,  my  feet 
touched  some  buried  root's,  and  I  was  safe 
beneath  the  willow  bush.  My  first  act  was  to 
take  the  cane  rod  and  push  it  carefully  into  the 
depths  of  the  mire.  1  thrust  it  down  for  the 
entire  sixteen  feet  without  touching  bottom.  I 
knew  death  had  been  near  to  me  ;  but  the  fruit- 
less effort  to  sound  the  depths  of  the  '"quag" 
made  me  realize  clearly  how  close  indeed  had 
been  the  danger. 

When  I  had  fully  recovered  from  the  awful 
shock  I  drew  the  now  dead  snake  towards  me 


and,  with  my  knife,  cut  away  the  rattles  for  a 
trophy.     There  were  fourteen  of  them. 

There  was  yet  another  quagmire  to  pass 
before  I  could  hope  to  reach  safety.  But  with 
the  caution  born  of  bitter  experience  I  did  not 
venture  until  I  had  made  a  perfectly  safe  bridge 
by  cutting  down  half  the  willows  on  the  island. 
Half  an  hour  later  I  stood  safe  on  the  high 
ground  bordering  the  swamp. 

Then  I  yelled.  But  cry  after  cry  only  brought 
in  response  the  echoes  from  the  hills.  Where 
was  Billy  J.  ?  And  where  was  I  ?  I  did  not 
know.  The  woods  were  strange.  I  was  lost ; 
but  I  was  content  in  the  possession  of  life. 

I  walked  slowly  along  the  edge  of  the  swamp, 
shouting  every  few  minutes  at  the  full  strength 
of  my  lungs.  After  a  time,  out  of  the  depths 
there  came  a  faint  answering  voice  from 
Billy  J.  My  companion  was  located  once 
more,  but  I  was  on  the  wrong  side  of  the 
morass,  and  an  exhausting  five-mile  tramp 
through  villainous  underbrush  was  my  lot  before 
1  could  reach  the  spot  where,  in  the  morning, 
the  two  of  us  had  entered  Big  Indian. 

We  bore  our  burden  of  splendid  trout  home- 
ward and  had  some  of  them  for  the  evening 
meal  At  the  table  there  was  a  new  arrival,  of 
the  type  Billy  detested.  But  the  guide  was 
magnanimous.  He  offered  the  neophyte  one 
of  the  delicious  trout.  A  mouthful,  and  the 
comment  came  :  — 

"  So  this  is  trout !  Well,  1  believe  I  like 
catfish  better  !  " 

Billy  J.  looked  at  me  solemnly  for  a  space, 
in  grave  realization  of  the  enormity  of  the 
offence.     Then  he  spoke  : — 

"  And  death  scraped  you  twice  before  this 
mud-digger  could  taste  trout  !  " 


Mil-;    "  Mill. -WATER  "   TKOLT    FOU    WHICH    HHK   Al'THOK    RISKfcD    HIS    I.IFE. 

From  a  Photo. 


Vol.  xi.— 18 


1^^  "Herbert  Vivian. 


An  extraordinary  community  of  monks  who  live  in  mediaeval  fortresses  perched  on  the  side  of  an 
inaccessible  mountain.  They  make  their  own  laws,  and  no  female  is  allowed  to  enter  their  territory, 
guards    being    stationed    at    the    frontier    to    turn    them    back.      This    curious    regulation    is    rigidly 

enforced  even  in  the  case  of  female  animals ! 


1 

HE  idea  of  an  independent  re- 
public in  the  heart  of  the  Turkish 
Empire  sounds  unreal,  and  the 
fact  that  it  consists  entirely  of 
Christian  monks  will  dissipate 
many  prejudices  against  the  in- 
tolerance of  Moslems.  Mount  Athos,  the  Holy 
Mountain  (as  it  is  commonly  called  by  Greeks 
and  Slavs),  consists  of  twenty  monasteries, 
eleven  villages,  two  hundred  and  fifty  cells,  and 
a  hundred  and  fifty  hermitages,  with  a  popula- 
tion of  some  three  thou.sand  monks  and  as 
many  lay  brothers,  who  are  known  as  kosmiki, 
or  worldlings.  No  Moslem  save  the  Sultan's 
representative,  no  woman,  or  female  animal  may 
enter  the  sacred  territory,  and  an  army  of  fifty 
Albanian  guards  is  stationed  at  Karyas,  the 
capital,  to  keep  them  out.  The  favourite  jest  of 
ribald  visitors  is  levelled  at  the  admission  of 
female  fleas,  but  the  monks  retort  that  their 
hospitality  prevents  them  from  instituting  th« 
necessary  search. 

Few  travellers  visit  Mount  Athos,  for  it  is  by 


no  means  easy  of  access,  but  it  aiuply  repays  an 
effort  as  well  by  its  natural  wonders  as  by  its 
unique  character  and  its  romantic  traditions.  It 
is  the  sole  remaining  theocracy  in  the  world  ; 
it  contrives  to  combine  independence  and 
authority,  faith  and  charity,  austerity  and 
happiness  in  a  manner  unrivalled  at  any 
other  time  or  place.  To  reach  it  you  must 
repair  to  Salonica,  the  Mohammedan  town, 
whose  population  is  fivc-sixlhs  Jew,  and  take 
a  local  steamer  to  the  Chersonese  of  our 
school-days.  If  you  are  wise  you  will  .select 
a  Russian  boat,  not  merely  because  good  food 
will  be  a  certainty  on  board,  but  also  because 
your  fellow-pilgrims  are  sure  to  repay  perusal. 
There  on  the  deck  are  strange  beings  in  brown 
robes  and  mustard  mantles,  with  sandals  on 
their  feet  and  yellow  cai)S  like  glorified  sponge- 
cakes ui)on  their  heads.  These  are  the  monks 
of  the  mountain,  rugged-looking  fellows  as  a 
rule,  but  kindly  and  talkative.  Like  all  the 
clergy  of  the  Orthodox  f!hurch,  they  are  for- 
bidden to  cut  their  hair.     Some  compromise  by 


'11 1 1:  MONKS'  ri;i'L'I;lic\ 


139 


Front  a\ 


THE   MONASTERY  OF    IVERON— IT    IS    I.IKE    A    HLGE    VILI.ACf 


[l-h.olo. 


rolling  it  up  into  a  chignon  inside  their  caps,  but 
the  majority  cultivate  a  [)orcupine  appearance, 
with  long  manes  down  their  backs  and  bristling 
beards  of  enormous  length. 

Soon  the  solemn  peak  of  Athos  comes  into 
view,  bright  and  white  as  it  rises  sheer  from  the 
sea  at  the  end  of  the 
peninsula,  dark  and 
mysterious  with  its 
cloak  of  dense  forest. 
The  monks  will  tell 
you  that,  from  the  little 
Chapel  of  the  Annun- 
ciation at  the  summit, 
you  may  descry  the  sun 
three  hours  before  it 
rises,  but  it  is  difficult 
to  make  them  e.\[)lain 
precisely  what  they 
mean  by  that.  Round- 
ing the  cape  you  land 
in  the  small  harbour 
of  Daphne,  where  a 
choice  of  two  indiffer- 
ent C5reek  inns  awaits 
you  for  the  night.  If 
the  day  is  not  too  far 
advanced  you  will  do 
well    to    push   on   to 


Karyas,  the  capital  of  the  republic.  It  is  a 
picturesque  village,  hidden  among  gardens  and 
olive -yards  on  the  eastern  slope  of  the  Holy 
Mountain.  The  overhanging  rocks  are  studded 
with  limpet  hermitages  and  pock  -  marked 
with  cavern    cells.      There   is   only  one  street, 


l-roiii  a] 


STAVKONIKIIAS    HAS   A    DISTINCTLY    Mll.llAKY    AJ-FEAKA.SCE. 


[Photo. 


140 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZLXl-. 


lined  by  low  wooden  cottages  and  a  bazaar 
or  honeycomb  of  open  shops,  where  monks 
drive  a  modest  trade  in  rosaries,  pictures, 
images,  and  various  household  articles  made  by 
the  hermits.  At  the  end  of  the  street  stands 
the  council  chamber,  an  unpretentious  building 
not  conspicuously  larger  than  the  others.  Besides 
this  there  is  little  to  see  except  the  church, 
which  I  suppose  we  must  call  a  cathedral.  It 
is  the  oldest  edifice  in  the  peninsula,  and  con- 
tains some  Byzantine  frescoes  of  the  eleventh 
century. 

Each  of  the  twenty  monasteries  sends   one 


authoi"ity,  for  he  can  do  nothing  without  the 
delegates  of  the  four  "  imperial  "  monasteries, 
who  act  as  his  privy  council.  No  act  is  valid 
without  their  seal.  This  is  a  silver  instrument 
and  is  cut  up  into  four  parts,  one  part  being 
held  by  each  of  the  privy  councillors,  so 
that  it  can  never  be  joined  together  unless 
all  four  are  agreed.  And  the  president  holds 
an  ingenious  key,  without  which  the  four  parts 
cannot  be  joined,  so  that  he,  too,  enjoys  a  very 
I)ractical  veto.  The  seal  bears  an  image  of  the 
J>lessed  Virgin,  who  is  the  patron  of  the  moun- 
tain, and   the  following  legend   in   Greek  and 


From  a] 


IHE   GKEAT   CASTELLATED    MONASTERY   OF    SI. 


[J'hoto. 


delegate  to  the  synod,  lie  resides  during  his 
year  of  ofifice  at  Karyas,  with  a  number  of 
novices  who  attend  school  there.  Four  more 
delegates  are  taken  from  the  four  "  imperial " 
monasteries,  and  this  parliament  of  twenty-four 
elects  every  four  years,  a  president,  known  as 
"  the  First  of  Athos,";-who  rules  the  State.  His 
"foreign  affairs"  are  practically  limited  to 
settling  with  the  Turkish  commissioner,  who 
receives  the  annual,  tribute  of  fifteen  hun- 
dred to  four  thousand  five  hundred  pounds. 
But    the    president    exercises   a    very    limited 


Turkish  :   "  Seal  of  the   Epistates   of  the  Com- 
munity of  the  Holy  Mountain." 

On  arriving  at  Karyas  your  first  duty  is  to 
visit  the  kaimakam.  'i'his  is  a  'i'urkish  title 
usually  given  to  district  prefects,  but  here 
allotted  to  a  Christian  who  is  in  command 
of  the  Albanian  guard.  The  only  article 
of  contraband  in  the  republic  is  the  eternal 
feminine,  so  there  is  no  need  to  search 
your  luggage  at  the  Custom-house.  But  the 
utmost  vigilance  is  exercised  to  exclude  the 
dangerous  sex.     Beardless  youths  are  especially 


riii:   MONKS    Ki:i'L'i;i.iC 


f4i 


suspect,  and  tlic  soldiers  can  tell  strange  tales 
of  inquisitive  women  who  have  tried  to  pene- 
trate in  disguise.  As  cows  and  female  goats 
are  excluded,  you  are  surprised  to  find  an 
abundance  of  milk  at  many  of  the  monasteries  ; 
but  you  learn  that  this  is  l)rought  daily  in  large 
quantities  from  the  mainland.  The  prohibition 
*  of  females,  you  learn,  was  originally  due  not  so 
much  to  the  fear  of  temptation  or  scandal  as 
to  a  desire  on  the  part  of-  the  original  monks  to 


bristling  array  of  bastions,  towers,  turrets, 
redans,  and  parapets,  all  stained,  riddled, 
and  crenellated  by  the  action  of  time  and 
tempest.  As  far  as  the  eye  can  see  there  is  no 
opening  anywhere  along  the  whole  expanse  of 
walls.  Wooden  galleries  project  beneath  the 
roof,  but  they  are  of  comparatively  recent  con- 
struction, having  only  been  added  since  the 
pirates  ceased  to  harry  the  Holy  Mountain. 
They  are   painted   a   defiant    blood-red.      The 


llILIi.NDAK    HAS    UEliiM    INHABITED   BV   SERVIANS    KOR    COUNTLICSS   GENEKAIJUNS    A.NU    l-USbliSsliS    .\1ANV    TKtAbUKtb. 

From  a  Photo,  by  lovanovitch,  Belgrade. 


keep  the  mountain  to  themselves.  Their  rule 
proved  an  effectual  obstacle  to  the  invasion  of 
shepherds,  who  desired  to  colonize  this  fertile 
region.  It  is  said  that  a  Byzantine  Empress 
insisted  on  visiting  Athos,  but  she  lived  to 
regret  it. 

The  chief  industry  at  Karyas  is  that  of  silk- 
worms, from  which  you  may  argue  that  the  pro- 
hibition of  females  is  not  carried  to  an  illogical 
extent.  If  you  desire  to  spend  a  night  at  the 
ta{)ital  you  may  find  a  bedroom,  but  it  will 
probably  have  to  be  cleared  of  silkworms  first, 
and  you  will  be  lucky  if  you  do  not  find  that 
other  insects  remain  to  torment  you.  However, 
it  is  likely  that  you  will  prefer  to  push  on  to 
Russicon,  the  Russian  monastery,  which  is 
only  four  hours'  mule-ride  away.  As  you 
approach  you  are  impressed  and  bewildered 
by    that    strange    fortress  -  sanctuary,    with    its 


whole  mass  of  masonry  clings  acrobat-like  to  a 
rock,  which  is  covered  with  luxuriant  verdure. 

You  draw  up  at  a  venerable  double  door, 
covered  with  bolts  and  bars  like  a  prison,  and 
admire  an  image  of  the  Holy  Virgin  in  golden 
vestments  which  glisten  through  a  grating  over 
the  gateway.  Doffing  your  cap  in  deference  to 
orthodox  custom,  you  enter  a  vast  courtyard, 
in  the  centre  of  which  is  the  catholicon,  a 
noble  cathedral  with  five  cupolas  ornamented 
with  fantastic  tracery.  All  round  the  square  are 
monks'  cells  with  a  double  row  of  arcades. 

Vou  are  received  by  the  heguman,  who 
answers  to  an  abbot.  The  etiquette  is  to  hand 
him  immediately  a  sum  of  money  amounting 
to  six  or  seven  francs  a  head  per  diem  for 
your  estimated  stay.  Then,  after  compliments, 
he  will  lead  you  straight  into  the  church.  This 
is  the  rule  of    St.   Basil,   under    which  all    the 


142 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


monasteries  are,  that  guests  shall  go  first  to  the 
shrine.  After  that  you  will  see  your  room  and 
receive  hospitable  entertamment. 

Many  profitable  and  happy  days  may  be 
spent  in  wandering  from  monastery  to  monas 
tery  all  over  this  strange  peninsula,  home  of 
those  who  are  weary  of  the  world.  Iveron  is 
like  a  huge  village,  and  astounds  you  by  the 
confusion  of  its  architecture.  To  the  right  is  a 
venerable  chateau,  which  recalls  that  of  St. 
Germain  and  the  Escurial  at  the  same  time. 
Then  comes  a  Roman  villa.  There  are 
glimpses  of  Cagliari,  of  Rhenish  castles,  of 
rural  pleasaunces,  of  Oriental  kiosques,  of  Irish 
towers,  of  the  remotest  lands  and  the  wildest 
dreams.  The  whole  nestles  in  a  demure  valley 
by  the  sea.  And  with  the  solemn  romance 
comes  a  feeling  of  sadness,  an  impression  of 
damp  porches,  cold  courts,  and  dreary  corridors. 
The  pictures  here  are  mostly  morbid. 

An  image  of  the  Blessed  Virgin,  which 
occupies  a  niche  behind  a  heavy  grating  over 
the  doorway,  is  highly  venerated.  The  legend 
runs  that  Theophilus,  Patriarch  of  Alexandria, 
the  enemy  of  St.  John  Chrysostom,  had 
burned  several  monasteries  and  dispersed  their 
images.     This   one    he  cast  into   the  sea,  and 


It  travelled  miraculously  to  Mount  Alhos. 
Another  is  to  l)e  seen  in  a  small  chapel 
dedicated  to  the  Twelve  Apostles.  It  is  related 
that  in  the  year  650  pirates  broke  into 
the  monastery.  Their  leader,  an  Ethiopian, 
entered  the  chapel  and  stabbed  the  image  with 
a  knife,  whereupon  a  stream  of  blood  gushed 
forth.  Touched  by  this  miracle,  he  and  his 
followers  were  converted  and  joined  the 
monastery,  where  they  set  an  example  of  great 
piety.  The  image  still  bears  upon  its  face  an 
ugly  scar  and  traces  of  blood,  and  the  monastery 
commemorates  the  incident  by  the  figure  of  a 
negro,  who  suj)ports  a  huge  wooden  clock. 

Little  more  than  a  mile  away  is  Stavronikitas, 
close  by  the  sea,  nestling  amid  myrtles  and  rose 
trees.  It  has  a  distinctly  military  appearance, 
with  a  square  keep  and  various  towers  and 
battlements.  At  the  gate  you  notice  a  little 
funeral  chapel,  called  kimisis,  where  the  bodies 
of  dead  monks  are  exposed  before  burial.  There 
is  also  a  serious-looking  dungeon,  where  monks 
work  out  their  hardest  penance  ;  but  about  this 
they  do  not  much  care  to  talk.  The  gardens  are 
chiefly  tended  by  lay  brothers,  who  go  about 
this  work  in  the  summer-time  clad  only  in  loose 
cotton  knickerbockers  and  broad-brimmed  straw 


I<rom  a\ 


VAIoriil;!,    THE    OI.DKSr    OK    Tllli    MONASTERlIiS. 


[Photo. 


THL     MONKS'     RLI'UBLIC. 


143 


from  a 


KOUTLOUMOUSIS   DUES   A   THKIVING    TRADE   IN    NUTS. 


hats.  The  monks  help  them  in  the  very  neces- 
sary work  of  irrigation,  for  which  water  is  brought 
from  the  rock-springs  by  means  of  hollow  trees 
— chestnuts  and  oaks  for  the  most  part. 

Let  us,  however,  explore  the  more  important 
monasteries   before  describing  the  daily  life  of 


their  mmates.  I  give 
a  picture  of  the  great 
castellated  monastery 
of  St.  Paul,  which  for 
centuries  remained 
one  of  the  greatest 
glories  of  the  moun- 
tain. With  its  hun- 
dreds of  friendly 
windows  peering  out 
above  a  sheer  pre- 
cipitous wall  in  one 
of  the  most  romantic 
glens,  It  must  have 
amazed  every  be- 
holder. Unfortu- 
nately, on  the  22nd 
of  January,  1902,  a 
great  fire  broke  out 
there.  The  hegu- 
man,  or  abbot,  and 
nine  monks  perished, 
but  the  church  and 
chapel  were  saved. 
Hilendar  is  also  interesting,  not  only  by  its 
fairy-tale-  appearance,  but  also  on  account  of 
recent  events.  It  has  been  inhabited  by 
Servians  for  countless  generations,  and  possesses 
many  treasures  which  date  back  to  the 
days    of   the    old    Servian    Empire.      But    the 


{Photo. 


From  a 


ZOGRAFON    IS   CONSIDSKED    VERY    UEAUTIFUL,    VITU    ITS    MAUBLE    WALLS    AND   (JLISTENINO   CUl'OLAS. 


il'holo. 


144 


THi:    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


Bulgarians,  who  are  sparing  no  effort  to  oust 
the  Servians  from  their  Macedonian  inheritance, 
have  carried  their  propaganda  even  on  to  the 
Holy  Mountain.  They  made  a  recent  effort  to 
seize  Hilendar  and  annex  it  for  their  own 
monks.  This  aroused  extreme  indignation  at 
Belgrade,  and  is  affording  lively  litigation  before 
the  council  of  the  monks  at  Karj'as.  The  fact 
is  that  Mount  Athos  has  a  political  as  well  as 
a  religious  importance.  Many  of  the  old  risings 
against  the  Turks  were  fomented  there,  and  it 
is  likely  that  coming  events  in   Macedonia  are 


Vatopedi  is  thought  to  be  the  oldest  of  the 
monasteries,  and  it  almost  amounts  to  a  little 
fortified  town,  with  its  own  harbour  and  landing- 
stage  and  impregnable  masonry.  It  is  also  one 
of  the  most  prosperous,  for  it  does  a  thriving 
trade  in  timber,  which  brings  in  at  least  five 
thousand  pounds  a  year.  It  is  one  of  the 
largest  owners  of  the  vast  properties  (known  as 
me/ox)  which  the  monasteries  hold  m  Wallachia, 
the  Island  of  Thasos,  and  the  coast  of 
European  Turkey.  Koutloumousis  depends 
largely  on  its  nut-harvest,  which  often  amounts 


UIONYSIOS   IS    PERCHED   ON    A    PRECIPITOUS   CRAG   JUST    UKSIUK    THE   SKA. 

From  a  Pho.o. 


eagerly  watched  by  the  monks  and  their  powerful 
patrons.  Russia  has  always  utilized  the  monas- 
teries of  the  Balkans  for  insurrectionary  prepara- 
tions, and  other  States  continue  to  connive  at  such 
proceedings.  In  old  days  all  the  monasteries 
of  Mount  Athos  were  armed,  some  of  them 
■with  cannon,  and  this  was  originally  necessary 
as  a  "protection  against  pirates.  But  after  the 
Oreek  War  of  Independence  Turkey  forbade 
therri'to  possess  munitions  of  war.  At  Hilendar 
and  elsewhere  you  may  still  discern  the  loop- 
holes in  the  walls  to  enable  cannon  to  be  fired 
against  besiegers. 


in  weight  to  six  or  seven  hundred  thousand 
pounds  a  year. 

Zografon  is  considered  among  the  most 
beautiful,  with  its  marble  walls  and  glistening 
cupolas  and  fantastic  towers,  but  Dionysios 
and  Simopetra  (Simon  Peter)  are  the  most 
mysterious. 

Ten  of  the  monasteries  are  known  as 
cenobite  (living  in  common),  the  others  as  idior- 
rhythmic  (living  separately).  The  first,  or 
communist,  class  is  by  far  the  stricter.  The 
monks  receive  all  their  necessaries  from  the 
monastery,    take   their    meals    together   in    the 


THE    MONKS'    RKPUBLIC 


'45 


Photo. 


refectory,  and  are  restricted  to  the  same  diet — 
namely,  one  daily  meal,  coiisistin:,'  of  bread, 
vegetables,  and  water.  For  the  first  three 
days  of  the  great  forty-day  fasts  they  eat 
nothing  at  all  if  their  health  permits.  They 
must  devote  six  hours  out  of  the  twenty-four  to 
religious  exercises,  and  twelve  on  festivals. 
Many  of  their  services  take  place  in  the  night, 
and  you  may  see  them  from  your  guest-chamber 
flitting  about  the  courts  like  ghosts,  bearing 
faint  flickering  lanthorns  in  their  hands. 

The  second,  or  individualist,  class  of  monks 
live  together  in  their  monasteries,  but  each  of 
them  feeds  and  clothes  himself  as  he  pleases. 
The  monastery  provides  bread  and  wine,  but 
everything  else  must  be  found  by  the  monks 
themselves.  For  this  each  receives  a  fi.xed  sunl 
of  money  according  to  his  rank  and  ofifice. 
They  elect  two  or  three  monks  as  administrators 
for  one  year,  but  are  practically  free  to  order 
their  lives  as  they  please.  The  cenobites,  on  the 
other  hand,  owe  entire  obedience  to  a  heguman, 
or  abbot,  who  is  elected  by  them  for  life. 

The  monks'  cells  are,  perhaps,  the  dreariest 
of  human  habitations.  The  walls  are  covered 
with  dingy  whitewasii,  and  the  furniture  consists 
of    wooden   divans,    where    they   snatch   short 


slumbers  between 
the  hours  of 
prayer.  They  are 
by  no  means 
learned  men,  but 
they  have  con- 
trived to  keep  up 
a  strange  mediae- 
val school  of 
painting,  which 
admits  of  fancy 
about  as  much 
as  copper  -  plate. 
I'heir  libraries  are 
chaotic,  most  of 
the  books  being 
huddled  away  \\\ 
cupboards  for 
worm  and  damp 
to  corrupt.  They 
have,  moreover, 
been  ransacked 
by  experts,  so 
that  little,  if 
anything,  remains 
for  the  codex- 
hunter. 
The  hermits  of  Mount  Athos  are  entirely 
distinct  from  the  monks.  They  live  in  huts  or 
caves  quite  alone,  almost  like  wild  animals,  and 
are  held  in  reverence  as  very  saintly  persons. 
But  they  do  not  like  the  monks.  This  seems 
to  be  a  traditional  feeling,  for  the  hermits  were 
first  on  the  mountain  and  have  always  regarded 
everyone  else  as  an  intruder.  When  Athanasius 
of  Athos  originally  applied  to  Constantine  for 
permission  to  build  a  monastery,  the  hernnts 
sent  a  deputation  to  Byzantium  to  protest,  but 
their  prayer  was  not  heard.  No  one  knows 
exactly  how  they  subsist.  They  will  sometimes 
remain  for  months  in  the  mountains  and  then 
come  down  half  starved  to  barter  rosaries  or 
carved  crosses  for  a  few  vegetables.  And  they 
take  as  little  thought  for  their  raiment  as  for  their 
food.  You  may  sometimes  see  one  of  them  stjuat- 
ting  on  the  rocks  clad  only  in  a  very  long  beard. 
The  Monks'  Republic  deserves  careful  study, 
for  it  is  one  of  the  completest  and  most  perfect 
relics  of  the  Middle  Ages  that  remain  in  the 
modern  world.  It  is  picturesque,  romantic, 
and  full  of  surprises.  The  climate  is  abomin- 
able and  fevers  abound,  but  more  than  that  may 
be  risked  for  so  supreme  a  sensation  as  a  visit 
to  the  Holy  Mount 


Vol. 


-19. 


T«t  S 


By 

]OHX  Kennedy. 


f» 


her  car  (TO. 


NE  of  the  most  remarkable  and 
dramatic  incidents  ever  recorded  in 
the  annals  of  steam  navigation  was 
the  theft  of  the  steamer  Ferret  and 
the    piratical    seizure    and    sale    of 


'I'he  Ferret  was  a  screw  steamer  with  a  speed 
of  twelve  knots  per  hour.  She  was  built  on  the 
Clyde  in  1871  by  the  well-known  firm  of  J. 
and  G.  Thomson,  for  Messrs.  G.  and  J.  Burns, 
of  Glasgow,  from  whom  the  Highland  Railway 
Company  purchased  her  for  their  mail  and 
passenger  service,  and  she  held  a  Board  of 
Trade  certificate  to  carry  two  hundred  passengers. 

The  conspirators  who  succeeded  in  stealing 
this  vessel  laid  their  plans  with  great  care  and 
attention  to  details,  and  carried  them  out  with 
marvellous  audacity.  One  of  them  took  an 
office  in  Gracechurch  Street,  London,  and 
obtained  a  sui)ply  of  printed  stationery  describ- 
ing himself  as  "  Henderson  and  Co.,  Ship 
Brokers,  etc."  He  also  opened  an  account  with 
a  well-known  bank  in  the  name  of  "  Smith," 
taking  care,  until  his  plans  were  perfected,  to 
keep  a  respectable  balance  to  his  credit. 

Early  in  October,  1880,  the  plot  had  ripened, 
and  one  of  the  gang,  representing  himself  to  be 
"  Mr.  \Valker,  Purser  of  the  Ferret,''  called  at  the 


The    remarkable   adventures 
of  a  Glasgow  steamer.     She 
was  stolen  from  her  owners, 
the  Highland  Railway  Com- 
pany,   by   a    clever    gang    of 
criminals,  who  subsequently 
made    it  appear  that    the   vessel 
had  foundered   in    the  Straits  of 
Gibraltar.     Thereafter  the  "  Fer- 
ret "  changed  her  name  not  once, 
but  several  times,  and  her  captors 
embarked  upon  an  extraordinary 
career  of  fraud  and  crime,  until 
their   nefarious    operations  were 
brought  to  an  abrupt  conclusion 
at  Melbourne. 


office  of  Messrs.  Douglas  and  Company,  Union 
Street,  a  leading  ship-chandlers'  firm  in  Glasgow, 
and  ordered  a  large  quantity  of  expensive  ship- 
stores.  The  stores  were  for  the  account  of  "  Mr. 
Smith,"  who  was  referred  to  as  a  relative  of 
Mr.  W.  H.  Smith,  the  late  First  Lord  of  the 
Admiralty. 

Naturally  references  were  required  and  were 
freely  given.  Mr.  Smith  had  chartered  from  the 
Highland  Railway  Company  the  steamer  Ferret 
for  a  six  months'  cruise  in  the  Mediterranean,  his 
wife  having  been  ordered  by  her  doctor  to  take 
a  long  sea  voyage.  The  Ferret  was  then  in  J. 
and  Ci.  Thomson's  yard,  being  overhauled  pre- 
paratory to  the  cruise.  Both  of  these  firms 
could  be  referred  to,  as  well  as  Mr.  Smith's 
bankers,  and  Messrs.  Henderson  and  Company, 
ship-brokers,  Gracechurch  Street,  London. 

The  bankers  were  written  to,  and  replied  that 
Mr.  Smith  had  an  account  with  their  bank. 
"  Henderson  and  Co."  were  also  a[)plied  to, 
and,  of  course,  gave  a  very  favourable  account 
of  Mr.  Smith. 

The  merchants,  being  satisfied  with  the  result 
of  their  inquiries,  supplied  the  stores,  which 
included  an  excellent  selection  of  first-class 
wines  specially  brought  from  London.  'I'he 
account,  which   amounted   to  no  less  than  one 


I'm;   si'RANdE  CASE  oi'  Tin: 


I'ERRET. 


m; 


thousand  four  liuiidrcd  and  ninety  pounds,  was 

presented   to  Walker,  who  gave  a  Ijill  at  three 

months    endorsed    l)y  Smith.      It 

IS   to  be  [)resumed   that  the  first 

half- month's  charter  was  paid,  as 

customary,    m    cash    in    advance, 

because  the  conspirators,    havmg 

once  got  possession  of  the  iH'rnt, 

were  ni   no  violent    hurry   to  get 

her  out  of  Britisli  waters. 

About  tlie  2oth    of  October  a 

man  named  William  Griffin  joined 

the  steamer  at  (Ireenock  as  chief 

engineer.      Although  Griffin  was 

not   placed   on   trial,   yet  it  is  to 

be    noted    that    he    had    a    prior 

acfiuamtance    with    \\'alker,    who 

had    introduced    hun     to    Smith. 

It  is  also  undeniable  that,  without 

the  assistance  of  Griffin  and  the 

ship's    carpenter,    the    alterations    which    were 

subsequently  made 
in  the  steamer 
could  not  have 
been  effected. 

From  Greenock 
the  Ferret  sailed 
in  charge  of  a  crew 
of  "  runners  "  to 
Cardiff,  Robert 
^^' right  {alias  Car- 
lyon)  being  master, 
and  Walker  (alias 
Wallace)  acting  as 
purser. 

.  The  steamer  ar- 
rived at  Cardiff  on 
the  22nd  of  Octo- 
ber, and  remained 

there  for  three  days  taking  in  a  cargo  of  coal 

for   ship's  use,  the 

coal  being  paid  for  by 

valueless    bills    on 

London. 

At  Cardiff  the  ''run- 
ners "  were  discharged 

and   a   fresh    crew, 

strangers  to  the  Ferret, 

were  shipped.     Smith 

(otherwise     Hender- 
son) also  embarked  at 

Cardiff,    accompanied 

by  "Mrs.  Smith." 
The    Ferret    sailed 

from    Cardiff   on    the 

25th  October  and  |)Ut 

into    Milford    Haven, 

l)robably    from    stress 

of  weather,  where  she 


J.     S.     HKNDEKSON,    ALIAS    SMITH, 
WHO    STOLE    THE    "  FERRET.' 

Frovi  a   P/wio. 


JAMES    WALKEK,    ALIAS   WALLACE, 

WHO  ACTEU  AS  THE   SHIP  S    FUR-SEK. 

From  a  P/ioto. 


remained  for  about  a  week.  She  left  Milford  on 
the  I  St  November,  ostensibly  for  Marseilles.  In 
pursuance  of  this  report  she 
passed  through  the  Straits  of  Gib- 
raltar on  the  morning  of  the  nth 
of  the  same  month,  and,  showing 
her  number,  requested  to  be  re- 
ported. 

Having  steamed  out  of  sight  of 
the  signalling  station  the  crew 
were  set  to  work  to  change  the 
colour  of  the  funnel  from  white 
to  black,  and  of  the  boats — with 
the  exception  of  two — from  blue 
to  white,  and  at  night,  with  her 
lights  carefully  screened,  she  re- 
turned westwards  through  the 
Straits.  While  passing  through, 
the  two  boats  that  had  not  been 
altered,  some  empty  casks,  several 
lifebelts,  and  other  articles,  all  havmg  the 
steamer's  name  painted  on  them,  were  thrown 
overboard.  This  was  done  for  the  purpose  of 
making  it  appear  that  the  vessel  had  foundered. 
So  evident  did  this  seem  that,  as  a  matter  of 
fact,  the  underwriters  paid  the  Highland  Rail- 
way Company  their  claim  for  the  total  loss  of 
the  steamer. 

That  same  night  all  the  crew  were  sent  aft  to 
the  saloon,  where  Smith  made  a  remarkable 
speech  to  them.  He  stated  that  he  was  a  poli- 
tical refugee  from  the  United  States  ;  that  he 
had  purchased  the  Ferret  to  use  partly  as  a  yacht 
and  partly  for  trading ;  and  that  after  he  had 
tiaded  for  some  time  he  intended  to  sell  the 
boat  and  make  it  worth  their  while  to  keep 
his  secret.  On  the  other  hand,  if  any  of  them 
disclosed  anything  they  saw  or  heard  on  board, 
he  would  blow  their  brains  out.  The  crew, 
when  arrested  later  on,  alleged   that   it  was  the 


THE    "  FERRET,"   WHICH   WAS   STOLEN    FROM   THE    HIGHLAND    RAH. 

From  a  Vholo.  by  F.  ZiegUr. 


148 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


bags    of    coffee    con- 

signed to  various  con- 

signees at    Marseilles. 

Having   obtained  this 

valuable      cargo      the 

SMITH     MADE   A   REMARKABLE 
SPEECH    TO   THEM." 


fear  of  this  threat  which  prevented  them  from 
giving  information  when  in  port  of  what  they 
knew  to  be  suspicious  actions. 

Avoiding  the  Canary  Islands,  presumably 
as  being  too  much  frequented  by  British 
shipping,  the  conspirators  kept  away  to  the 
southward  until  they  reached  St.  Vincent,  Cape 
Verde  Islands.  Entering  the  harbour  here  they 
anchored  for  several  days,  during  which  they 
took  in  fresh  water  and  a  supply  of  pigs,  poultry, 
fruit,  and  vegetables,  paying  for  them  in  their 
usual  manner,  by  means  of  worthless  bills. 

The  Times  (23rd  June,  1881)  Sydney  corre- 
spondent states  that  after  leaving  St.  Vincent 
the  vessel's  name  was  altered  to  the  Benton. 
But  this  seems  most  improbable,  as  it  would  be 
apparent  that  the  Ferret  did  not  founder  in  the 
Mediterranean,  and,  moreover,  it  would  have 
left  a  clue  by  which  she  could  easily  have  been 
traced.  The  truth  probably  is  that  the  altera- 
tion was  made  immediately  she  got  clear  of  the 
Straits  of  Ciibraltar.  Be  this  as  it  may,  the 
Benton  arrived  at  Santos  on  the  26th  of 
December,  and  nothing  more  was  heard  of  the 
Ferret. 


At  Santos  Smith 
went  on  shore  and  lost 
no  time  in  opening 
negotiations  with  the 
local  shipping  agents, 
to  whom  he  stated 
that  the  Benton  was 
from  Cape  Town  in 
ballast,  bound  for 
England.  The  nego- 
tiations resulted  in  the 
shipment  of  t li r e e 
thousand  nine  hun- 
dred and  ninety-two 
Dffee  con- 
irious  con- 
Marseilles, 
ained  this 
argo  the 
Benton  sailed  from 
Santos  on  the  1 1  th  of 
January,  1881,  but  in- 
stead of  proceeding  to 
Marseilles  she  steamed 
direct  to  Cape  'J'own. 
While  the  Benton 
was  steaming  across 
the  South  Atlantic  the 
Glasgow  holders  of 
the  bill  for  fourteen 
hundred  and  ninety 
pounds  received  some 
information  which 
made  them  uneasy, 
and  on  presentation  of  the  bill  when  due  it  was 
returned  dishonoured.  The  account  was  closed, 
they  were  informed,  the  balance  had  been  with- 
drawn,' and  the  acceptor's  whereabouts  were 
unknown.  The  holders  then  applied  to  Hender- 
son and  Co.,  but  the  letter  was  returned  marked 
"  Addressees  gone,  no  address."  They  then 
wrote  to  the  Highland  Railway  Company, 
and  received  a  reply  from  the  secretary  to 
the  effect  that  the  Highland  Railway  Com- 
pany had  already  done  all  in  their  power  to 
trace     the     Ferret,     in     their     own     interests, 


having   received    no 
charterers    since     the 


charter- money    from    the 
vessel    sailed    from    the 


Clyde, 
with     L 


They    had    been    in 
oyd's   and    the    Board 
British    Consuls    and 
nKjuines    had    been   made  all 
About     ten     days     before    the 


through 


communication 
of  Trade,  and 
Lloyd's  agents 
over  the  world, 
receipt  of  the 
merchants'  letter  the  Highland  Railway  Com- 
pany had  heard  that  the  Ferret  had  arrived  at 
Malta,  but  on  cabling  there  had  received  a  reply 
denying  the  report.  'I'hereupon  they  had  cabled 
a  second  time,  ordering  the  vessel  to  be  seized 
at  Malta  in  the  event  of  her  putting  in  there. 


Till':    .STR.WC.i:    CASIC    OF    THi:    •' FERRKT.- 


•49 


Meanwhile  the  Bciiloii  was  ncaring  Cape 
Town,  laden  with  the  coffee  shipped  at  Santos. 
During  the  voyage  further  changes  had  been 
effected  in  the  appearance  of  the  vessel,  and 
the  name  India  was  substituted  for  Benton. 
The  original  name  Ferret  had  previously  been 
filed  ofi"  the  ship's  bell,  and  now  as  a  further 
precaution  the  ship's  number  on  the  main  hatch 
coamings  was  altered  to  77,942.  The  India 
put  into  Cape  Town  on  the  29th  January,  and 
at  once  began  to 
discharge  her 
cargo. 

The  conspira- 
tors had  gone  so 
far  as  to  provide 
themselves  with 
a  printing  press, 
and  had  on  board 
everything  neces- 
sary  for  the 
manufacturing  of 
the  vouchers  and 
documents  neces- 
sary to  the  suc- 
cess of  their 
frauds,  as  well  as 
revenue  stamps 
of  all  nationali- 
ties. Those  who 
know  the  compli- 
cated formalities 
which  have  to  be 
gone  through  in 
connection  with 
shipping  matters 
will  realize  what 
a  great  help  this 
printing  plant 
was  to  the  con- 
spirators. 

At  Cape  Town 
Smith  produced 
a  document  with 
a  printed  head- 
ing, purporting  to 
be  an  invoice  for 
three  thousand 
ninehundredand 

ninety-two  bags  of  coffee  sold  by  coffee  planters 
at  La  Guayra,  a  small  port  in  Venezuela,  to 
C.  S.  Henderson  and  Co.,  and  with  it  a  receipt 
for  the  amount,  duly  stamped.  He  succeeded 
in  selling  the  cargo,  and  realized  by  the  sale  of 
it  about  eleven  thousand  pounds.  He  had  to 
accept  in  part  payment  bills  to  the  extent  of 
eight  thousand  pounds  drawn  on  the  Standard 
Bank,  Clement's  Lane,  London,  payable  nine 
months  after  date.     It  is  satisfactory  to  know 


THE   COMMISSIONER    OF    CUSTOMS   SEIZED   THE    VESSEL 


that  the  frauds  were  discovered  before  these  bills 
matured,  and  payment  of  them  was  stopped. 

After  discharging  the  cargo  Smith  tried  to 
sell  the  steamer,  but  not  succeeding  in  his 
attempt  he  shipped  a  (}uantity  of  coal  and  sailed 
on  the  14th  February  for  Mauritius.  I'he  con- 
s[)irators  arrived  at  NL\uritius  on  the  ist  March, 
but  did  not  succeed  m  getting  any  plunder  there, 
and  so  they  cleared  out  "  for  Guam." 

The  next  port  they  entered  was  Port  Albany 

in  \\'estern  Australia, 
whence  they  steamed 
direct  to  Mell)ourne. 
Here  Wright  and  Walker 
put  up  the  steamer  for 
sale,  but  received  no 
offers. 

While  she  was  at  Mel- 
bourne several 
circumstances 
made  the  Cus- 
toms officers  and 
the  harbour  po- 
lice suspect  that 
there  was  some- 
thing  \v  r  o  n  g 
about  the  vessel. 
It  was  observed 
that  the  fires  were 
always  banked, 
so  that  steam 
could  be  got  up 
at  the  shortest 
notice.  Captain 
^^Vight,  too,  never 
left  the  steamer, 
and  none  of  the 
crew  (except 
Walker,  the 
purser)  were  ever 
allowed  "  shore 
leave."  The 
Customs  authori- 
ties, therefore, 
instructed  one  of 
their  officers  to 
make  a  special 
investigation  of 
the  matter.  The 
result  was  startling.  The  officer  reported  that 
there  was  no  steamer  of  the  tonnage  given 
registered  at  Lloyd's  in  the  name  of  India,  but 
that  the  particulars  of  tonnage  and  dimensions 
corresponded  exactly  with  the  register  of  the 
missing  steamer  Ferret. 

Noting  all  these  suspicious  circumstances,  the 
Customs  authorities  determined  on  prompt 
action.  Requisitioning  two  crews  of  the  water 
police,  as  it  was  feared  there  might   be  violent 


IsO 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


opposition  on  the  part  of  the  crew  of  the  steamer, 
the  Commissioner  of  Customs,  on  the  27th 
April,  seized  the  vessel. 

Fortunately  their  anticipations  as  to  resistance 
were  not  realized,  the  crew  surrendering  without 
opposition.  Althougli  the  authorities  had  been 
extremely  cautious  in  their  inquiries,  it  is 
evident  that  the  conspirators  became  aware  of 
what  was  being  done,  for  when  the  steamer 
was  seized,  Smith,  Mrs.  Smith,  and  Captain 
Wright  had  fled.  The  previous  day  Smith  and 
Mrs.  Smith  removed  from  their  cabin  a  number 
of  articles,  and  amongst  them  two  heavy  iron- 
bound  bo.xes  which  were  never  traced.  Smith 
succeeded  in  getting  away  from  Melbourne  to  a 
distant  township,  but  was  finally  arrested.  Mrs. 
Smith,  who  had  disappeared  for  a  time,  re- 
appeared when  she  heard  of  his  arrest  and  visited 
him  in  prison.  The  object  of  her  visit  may  be 
surmised  from  the  fact  that  shortly  after  her  visit 
Smith  tried  to  escape  by  filing  through  one  of 
the  bars  of  his  prison  window. 

Captain  Wright  had  found  a  safe  retreat  in  a 
Melbourne  sailors'  lodging  house,  but  having 
got  drunk  and  quarrelled  with  his  landlady  he 
was  thrown  out  and  arrested  for  being  drunk 
and  disorderly.  When  the  charge  was  being 
booked  at  the  police-station  he  was  recognised 
as  the  missing  master  of  the  steamer,  for  whom 
the  police  were  searching. 

Confirmation  of  the  suspicions  which  induced 
the  Commissioner  of  Customs  to  seize  the 
steamer  was  speedily  obtained.  Traces  of 
fraud  were  quickly  discovered  on  the  ships  hull 
and  a[)pointments  and  in  her  books  and  papers, 
some  of  the  latter  being  found  in  very  unusual 
places  of  deposit.  Between  the  leaves  of  the 
log-book  a  seaman's  advance  note  was  found 
with  the  name  of  the  ferret  on  it.  There  was 
also  found  a  MS.  cipher  code,  by  means  of 
which  communication  might  be  made  between 
those  on  the  vessel  and  others  on  shore.  This 
volume  served  to  show  the  unscrupulous  cha- 
racter of  the  criminals  and  the  extreme  lengths 
to  which  they  were  pre[)ared  to  go  One  or 
two  quotations  will  illustrate  the  truth  of  this 
assertion  :  — 

"  Accept  charter  referred  to  and  lose  vessel 
before  you  arrive  in  port.     Don't  fail." 

"  Get  out  of  port  the  best  way  you  can,  but 
sink  the  ship  before  you  allow  them  to  stop  her." 

"  Destroy  all  papers  and  sink  sliip  if  possible, 
or  burn  her  and  get  away.  Make  best  of  your 
way  over  here." 

"Things  going  wrong.  Mate  not  to  be 
trusted  ;  shall  get  rid  of  him." 


"  Things  going  wrong  with  some  of  the  crew ; 
must  get  rid  of  them." 

"Things  going  wrong  witli  the  whole  of  the 
crew  ;  must  get  rid  of  them." 

"  Lost  vessel,  landed  here  to-day,  all  hands 
forward  lost." 

"  Game  is  all  up  ;  all  discovered  ;  destroy  or 
hide  everything  and  make  yourselves  scarce  ; 
communicate  with  me  through  the  arranged 
channel." 

Among  the  papers  seized  was  a  card  of  a 
Dr.  Bonefin.  Now,  a  swindler  of  this  name — • 
not  a  common  one,  by  the  way  — was  convicted 
shortly  before  the  arrival  of  the  Fetret  for 
obtaining  goods  under  false  pretences  from  a 
number  of  Melbourne  jewellers,  and  was 
sentenced  to  a  term  of  imprisonment  in  Pent- 
ridge  Gaol.  In  the  cipher  code  referred  to 
Melbourne  figures  as  "51,''  so  that  it  is 
extremely  probable  that  Bonefin  was  one  of 
the  conspirators  on  shore. 

Eventually  the  three  criminals  arrested — viz... 
Smith  {a/ias  Henderson,  a/ias  Benard),  ^\'right 
{a/uis  Carlyon),  and  Walker  [alias  Wallace) — 
were  indicted  on  three  counts  :  — 

I  St. — Conspiracy  to  defraud  the  owners  of  the 
Ferret,  the  Highland  Railway  Company. 

2nd. — Conspiracy  to  defraud  intending  pur- 
chasers of  the  Ferret  in  Melbourne  ,  and 

3rd. — Conspiracy  to  deceive  the  Commis- 
sioner of  Trade  and  Customs  by  entermg  the 
vessel  in  a  false  name,  and  to  obtain  a  certificate 
of  sale  under  which  the  vessel  could  have  been 
sold  in  that  port. 

They  were  all  acquitted  on  the  first  count,  but 
convicted  on  the  second  and  third.  Smith  and 
Walker  were  each  sentenced  to  seven  years' 
penal  servitude  and  Wright  to  three  and  a  half 
years. 

This  result  is  most  remarkable.  No  mention 
is  made  of  the  frauds  perpetrated  at  (jlasgow, 
Cardiff,  and  St.  Vincent,  C.V.,  nor  of  the 
steps  taken  (if  any)  to  secure  the  confederates 
on  shore  Nor  does  anyone  seem  to  have 
concerned  themselves  about  the  fraudulent 
sale  of  the  valuable  cargo  of  coffee  at  Cape 
Town. 

As  for  the  unfortunate  crew,  who  hatl  rccei\cd 
no  wages,  they  obtained  a  temporary  refuge  in 
the  Melbourne  Sailors'  Home. 

The  after-history  of  the  Ferret  is  briefly  told. 
She  was  purchased  in  1885  by  the  Adelaide 
Steamship  Company,  of  Currie  Street,  Adelaide, 
South  Australia,  and  is  at  the  present  date 
employed  by  that  company  in  the  Australian 
coasting  service. 


The  Calulut  Affair. 

AN    INCIDENT    01-    THI.    I'l  III.IPPIXE    WAR. 
1J\    Ikkdekic  Coleman. 

The    author's    first    and   last  experience    as  an  engine-driver.     The  Filipinos  planned  to  wreck  and 
capture    the    military    train,    but    the    scheme    miscarried,     and    most     of    the    passengers    slipped 

through  their  fingers  and  escaped  in  safety. 


O  begin  wilh,  I  am  not  an  engine- 
driver,  nor,  in  fact,  an  engineer  of 
any  sort.  I  ;ini  a  newspaper  corre- 
spondent who  has  been  fortunate 
enough    to  have  been   sent  at  odd 

times    to    the    wars,    and    my    knowledge    of 

mechanics  would  never  earn   me  a  certificate. 

But  on  one  occasion  in  my  life  I  acted  as  an 

engine-driver  under  peculiar  circumstances,  when 

it   was  well  for  all  con- 
cerned   that    I    did    so. 

And  thereby  hangs  a  tale. 
Late   in   the    summer 

of    the   year    1899    the 

American    army  in    the 

Philippines,  or,   more 

particularly,    in    the    Is- 
land of  Luzon,    had 

worked  as  far  north  from 

the  city  of  Manila  as  a 

town  called  Angeles. 

Angeles   was    something 

like  half  a  hundred  miles, 

or  thereabouts,  from 

Manila,  and  on  the  line 

of  the   Manila  and  Da- 

gupan  Railway.      Down 

the  track,  ten  miles  from 

Angeles,  in  the  direction 

of  Manila,  was  San  Fer- 
nando.    This  town  had 

for    a   long    time    been 

the   base   of  su[)plies   of 

the    American    army    in 

Northern    Luzon,    and 

was   still   the   head- 
quarters  of    the    forage 

transport  and  one  or  two 

other    de[)artments. 

Half-way  between   San 

Fernando    and    Angeles 

lay  the  town  of  Calulut, 

which  was  the  only  station   between    the    two 

towns. 

The  railway  was  not  in  first-class  condition. 

It  had  been   torn   up  by  the  insurgents  as  they 

retreated   along    it,    and    in     many    places    the 

embankment   was   found   to   have   been    mined 

and  blown  up  to  prevent  the  Americans  from 


Tllli      AUTHOK,     MK.      HitDKl.lC     COLEMAN,      l.V     THF.     COSTUME 
HE    WOUE    AS   A    NF-WSI'ACER    CORRESl'ONUENT    IN      IME     PHU.IP- 

Froin  a  Photo.  by\  I'lNES.  \Geo.  Ncivncs,  Ltd. 


hastily  laying  new  rails  and  utilizing  the  road  for 
transport  purposes.  By  judicious  use  of  hard- 
working gangs  of  Chinese  coolies,  however, 
those  in  charge  of  the  reconstruction  of  the 
line  had  managed  to  keep  up  with  the  advance 
thus  far  very  fairly.  The  road  was  no  model, 
naturally,  and  was  a  good  thing  for  persons  of 
nervous  temperament  to  stay  a  long  distance 
away    from.      Speed    on    that    railway    meant 

probability  of  accident, 
and,  though  but  few 
serious  mishaps  occur- 
red, everyone  agreed  that 
the  scarcity  was  due 
more  to  good  fortune 
than  anything  else. 

At  the  time  of  the  in- 
cident which  I  am  about 
lo  relate,  trains  from 
Manila  were  running  as 
far  as  San  Fernando 
only.  A  separate  train 
ran  from  San  Fernando 
lo  Angeles,  making  two 
return  trips  per  day. 
Although  Angeles  was 
the  point  of  the  ad- 
vance of  the  northern 
line,  and  the  enemy 
were  close  about  the 
town  both  in  front  of 
it  and  on  each  side,  the 
San  Fernando  train  was 
allowed  to  run  without 
any  armed  guard  what- 
ever. 

The  insurgents  had 
thus  far  never  evinced 
any  tendency  to  bother 
the  train  service,  and 
the  large  numbers  of 
troops  at  San  Fer- 
nando, Calulut,  and  Angeles  gave  those  who 
ran  the  train  a  sense  of  security  which  was 
hardly  warranted,  as  was  proven  by  what  took 
place. 

One  bright  morning,  about  half-past  eight 
o'clock,  I  stood  on  the  platform  of  the  San 
Fernando  Station,  bound  for  Angeles.      Before 


^s- 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


me  stood   the   train,    which    consisted  of   eight  . 
cars,    four  of   which    were    passenger   coaches. 
The  train  was  to  pull  out— or  rather  to  push  out, 
as  the  engine  came  last — at  nine  o'clock. 

When  that  hour  arrived  I  had  pretty  well 
taken  a  census  of  the  passenger  list.  Major 
"Jake"  Augur,  of  the  4th  United  States 
Cavalry  ;  Captain  "  Al  "  Perry,  of  the  Commis- 
sary Department ;  and  Captain  Percy  Lowe, 
formerly  of  the  14th  United  States  Infantry,  but 
at  that  time  in  command  of  an  organization 
known  as  Lowe's  Scouts,  were  the  only  officers 
who  were  going  by  the  train.  The  "  hospital 
car,"  or  car  occupied  by  the  Hospital  Corps,  was 
in  charge  of  a  couple  of  Hospital  Corps  men. 
Half-a-dozen  or  more  soldiers,  unarmed,  were 
returning  to  the  lines  from  the  Manila  hospitals. 
There  was  a  messenger  or  two  aboard,  a  com- 
missary clerk,  an  orderly,  and  a  civilian,  the 
latter  bound  for  Angeles  on  business.  One  flat 
car  was  loaded  with  Macabebe  workmen,  Fili- 
pinos in  the  employ  of  the  American  army  ; 
another  bore  a  cavalry  forge,  upon  which  was 
seated  a  cavalryman  ;  and  last,  but  not  least, 
was  Captain  Perry's  Chinese  servant,  Sam, 
brought  all  the  way  from  Arizona,  who  was,  as 
usual,  at  the  captain's  heels. 

As  the  train  was  about  to  pull  out  from  the 
station,  a  non-commissioned  otificer  and  three 
privates  of  Lowe's  Scouts  happened  to  come 
along.  Lowe  at  once  called  them  to  the 
carriage  window  and  asked  them  where  they 
were  going.  As  they  replied  that  they  were 
not  bound  for  any  particular  destination,  Lowe 
suggested  that  they  should  come  to  Angeles 
with  hmi  and  get  a  look  at  the  country  along 
the  railway  line. 

Accordingly  they  climbed  into  a  carriage  with 
their  four  rifles  -the  only  rifles  on  that  train  — 
and  we  started  a  moment  later  for  Angeles. 
Had  those  four  men  not  passed  by,  or  had 
Lowe  not  taken  it  into  his  head  to  bring  them 
with  him,  there  would  probably  have  been  a 
very  different  story  to  be  told  at  the  close  of 
that  day,  and  as  likely  as  not  I  should  not  be 
telling  it. 

The  five  miles  between  San  Fernando  and 
Calulut  passed  without  incident,  and  after  a 
stop  of  a  few  minutes  at  the  latter  town  we  were 
again  on  our  way  to  Angeles,  five  miles  to  the 
northward. 

The  country  on  either  side  of  the  railway 
was  beautiful.  The  feathery  hedges  of  bamboo 
and  the  dark  green  clumps  of  trees,  witli  a 
brown  nipa  hut  here  and  there,  made  the  ride 
one  series  of  charming  pictures.  'l"he  day  was 
a  perfect  one. 

The  first  car  of  tlie  train  was  the  flat  car  on 
which  the  cavalryman  sat  upon  his  forge.    Then 


came  the  four  passenger  coaches,  then  the 
hospital  car  and  another  flat  car,  and  last  of  all, 
next  to  the  engine,  another  goods  car  contain- 
ing fodder.  The  passenger  carriages  were  like 
ordinary  English  railway  carriages,  without  parti- 
tions between  the  compartments. 

I  was  seated  by  a  window  on  the  right  side 
of  the  train  in  the  first  compartment  of  the  first 
coach.  Opposite  me,  at  the  other  window,  sat 
Captain  Perry.  Major  Augur  and  Captain 
Lowe  were  in  the  same  compartment.  The 
only  other  passengers  in  the  same  carriage  were 
the  commissary  clerk  and  Sam,  the  Chinaman, 
who  were  at  the  other  end  of  the  car.  Lowe's 
four  scouts  were  in  the  car  behind  us. 

The  fine  weather,  the  beautiful  scenery,  and 
the  general  gaiety  of  our  little  party  would  have 
lightened  the  heart  of  the  veriest  misanthrope 
alive.  When  we  reached  a  point  about  half- 
way between  Calulut  and  Angeles  I  began  to 
point  out  to  the  officers  the  various  landmarks 
of  the  battle  which  had  won  an  entry  into 
Angeles  for  Colonel  (since  General)  "Jake" 
Smith  and  his  12th  Infontry.  I  was  the  only 
member  of  the  party  who  had  been  present 
during  that  engagement,  and  the  trio  of  officers. 
Captain  Lowe  particularly,  were  anxious  to  hear 
what  details  I  could  give  them. 

I  knew  the  road  at  this  point  well,  as  I  had 
gone  over  it  many  times. 

"W'ait  till  we  get  to  the  curve  half  a  mile 
farther  on,"  I  said.  "  You  can  see  a  fringe  of 
bamboo  from  where  you  sit,  Perry.  That  was 
the  place  from  which  we  had  such  hard  work 
to  drive  out  the  '  insurrectos.'  " 

A  few  momenls  later  we  came  to  the  fringe  I 
had  mentioned.  As  I  felt  the  car  take  the  turn 
I  said,  "  Here's  the  place." 

The  words  had  no  sooner  passed  my  lips  than 
we  were  thrown  into  the  air  as  if  by  an  ex[)losion. 
The  carriage  leaped  upward  hysterically  one, 
two,  three  times,  and  then  came  to  a  standstill 
with  a  bump  that  gave  us  all  a  thorough 
shaking  up. 

The  very  instant  the  car  ceased  its  drunken 
gambols,  crash  !  came  a  storm  of  bullets  through 
the  woodwork. 

The  train  had  been  wrecked  and  fired  into  by 
the  insurgents,  and  there  was  fighting  to  be 
done — hard,  quick  fighting,  too,  if  we  wislied  to 
get  out  of  the  mess  alive. 

At  the  first  volley  Captain  Perry  cried  out, 
"They've  got  me  all  right,"  and  dropped  back 
on  the  seat.  A  glance  out  of  the  window  (for- 
tunately there  was  no  glass  in  the  windows) 
showed  black  forms  springing  from  the  tall  grass 
and  weeds  just  across  the  narrow  ditch  by  the 
side  of  the  track  and  running  toward  us  through 
the  cane-field  on  the  right  of  the  track. 


THE    CALULUT    AFFAIR. 


153 


Two  or  three  black  villains  made  for  our  car 
straiglu  across  tlie  ditch.  Lowe  and  I  emptied 
our  45-calibre  Colts  out  of  the  window  and 
stopped  their  progress  there  and  then.  Major 
Augur  with  great  coolness  stei)ped  to  the  other 
window   and   reconnoitred   the   left  side   of  the 


They  were  as  good  men  as  could  be  found  in 
Uncle  vSam's  army,  and  no  soldier  needs  higher 
praise  than  that.  Other  than  those  four  rifles  we 
knew  we  had  none  aboard  the  train.  Pistols 
there  were,  probably,  but  no  guns. 

Perry   and   I  lay  together  in  one  end   of  the 


l.KWE   AND    I    EMPTIED   OUK    COI.TS   OUT   UF    THE    WINIMIW. 


train.  Not  an  insurgent  was  in  sight  from  that 
side,  the  entire  attacking  party  having  evidently 
gathered  on  the  right. 

Our  pistols  empty,  we  all  four  threw  ourselves 
to  the  floor  of  the  car  and  reloaded.  What  we 
had  been  able  to  see  of  the  enemy,  the  fusillade 
they  were  keei)ing  up,  and  the  frequent  and 
ominous  sound  of  bullets  ripping  their  way 
through  the  car  satisfied  us  that  we  were  so 
outnumbered  as  to  make  a  fair  stand-up  fight 
practically  out  of  the  question. 

From  the  first  of  the  firing  we  heard  the  crack 
of  Krag-Jorgensens*  from  the  next  car,  pro- 
claiming   the    presence   of  Lowe's   four    scouts. 


Vol.  xi.— 20. 


The  American  service  rifle. 


compartment  and  .\Lijor  Augur  and  Lowe  in  the 
other.  We  made  an  agreement  when  we  took 
this  position  that  we  would  try  to  escape  the 
eyes  of  the  insurgents  by  lying  quiet,  but  the 
appearance  of  a  black  face  at  either  window 
would  mean  death  to  its  owner,  and  then  we 
woukl  finish  off  as  many  of  the  enemy  as  possible, 
with  whatever  result  the  fortunes  of  war  might 
bestow  upon  us. 

As  we  lay  there  I  borrowed  all  the  handker- 
chiefs in  the  party  and  tied  up  Perry's  wounds. 
A  great  lead  slug  had  torn  its  way  in  and  then 
out  of  his  fore-arm,  only  to  rip  another  gash  in 
his  flesh  as  it  entered  his  biceps,  where  it  was 
firmly  embedded.  The  three  large  wounds  made 
things  pretty  nasty  at  our  end  of  the  compart- 


154 


THE    WIDE    WORED    MAGAZINE. 


ment,  but  I  managed  to  bind  them  up  so  as  to 
stop  most  of  the  hemorrhage. 

As  we  Hstened  anxiously  the  firing  seemed 
to  be  gradually  going  away  from  us.  Fewer 
bullets  came  through  the  car,  and  the  pan 
demonium  of  yells  which  had  filled  our  ears 
died  down.  It  was  partially  quiet,  like  a 
momentary  lull  in  a  fierce  storm.  Then  the  air 
was  once  more  full  of  shrieks  and  cries,  and 
rifle  shots  again  rang  out.  The  yells  were 
closer,  were  right  under  the  windows  of  the  car, 
were  all  about  us. 

Mad  shouts,  the  thud  of  heavy  blows,  death- 
screams,  groans,  and  every  manner  of  fiend-like 
sound  that  frenzied  combatants  could  make, 
together  with  the  discharge  of  firearms,  made 
the  most  awful  combination  I  have  ever 
heard.  We  learned  later  that  it  was  by  our  car 
that  the  more  venturesome  spirits  among  the 
insurgents  came  upon  the  Macabebe  work- 
men, armed  with  bolos  and  their  tools,  and 
then  ensued  a  fight  for  life  that  was  truly 
terrible. 

To  our  dismay  the  sound  of  the  Krags  had 
ceased.  We  could  but  hope  that  the  four  scouts 
had  not  been  killed,  though  everything  seemed 


THE   CAR    .SHOOK    WrTM    TIIK    Ui.l'.lll     IJI-    sd.MKOM-.    UMii    jrAI)    Mi  lUN'TKI)    TIIF.    STKl'. 


to  point  that  way.  So  there  we  lay,  breathing 
as  quietly  as  possible,  our  fingers  on  the  triggers 
of  our  pistols,  awaiting  the  discovery  which 
seemed  more  inevitable  every  moment.  The 
car  shook  with  the  weight  of  someone  who  had 
mounted  the  step.  We  held  our  breath.  Sam, 
the  Chinaman,  and  the  commissary  clerk  in  the 
other  end  of  the  car  hugged  the  hard  floor  in 
an  ecstasy  of  terror.  In  fact,  it  was  fully  a 
week  before  Sam  could  be  convinced  that  he 
would  ever  be  able  to  breathe  regularly  again. 

Seeing  no  one  in  the  compartment  into  which 
he  looked,  the  insurgent,  fortunately  for  himself, 
stepped  down  and  went  off. 

The  cries  began  to  die  away  and  the  firing 
almost  ceased.  The  strain  was  growing  intoler- 
able, and  we  were  beginning  to  suffer  from  our 
cramped  position  on  the  floor. 

"  Well,  boys,"  said  Major  Augur,  presently, 
"  either  our  men  are  all  killed  or  have  all 
escaped,  and  the  insurgents  have  evidently 
drawn  off  a  bit.  We  can  do  no  more  good 
here.     Let's  move." 

So  move  we  did.  Not  cautiously  and  slowly, 
as  you  might  suppose,  but  with  a  burst  of  relief 
and  a  feeling  that  almost  anything  was  better 

than  that  awful  suspense, 
out  of  sight  but  in  full 
hearing  of  sounds  that, 
horrible  as  they  were, 
could  not  mean  worse 
sights  than  our  minds 
had  pictured. 

Thus  far  I  have  chro- 
nicled the  progress  of 
events  as  they  appeared 
to  me  at  that  time. 
Later  discoveries  ac- 
counted for  much  that 
was  quite  inexplicable  to 
the  three  oflicers  and 
myself. 

The  train  had  been 
wrecked  by  about  sixty 
or  seventy  insurgents,  or 
at  least  by  a  party  with 
that  number  of  rifles. 
They  had  dug  the  earth 
from  under  the  rails  for 
a  number  of  yards,  filled 
in  the  hole  with  grass, 
spread  earth  cner  the 
trap,  and  laid  in  wait 
for  the  coming  of  the 
train. 

The  first  car,  loaded 
with  the  forge,  our  car, 
and  the  car  occupied  by 
the    four  scouts  were 


■riTE  calulut  affair 


155 


sent  over  the  excavation  by  the  train's  impetus. 
The  carriage  occupied  by  the  scouts  was 
derailed,  however,  and  the  two  coaches  following 
were  completely  overturned,  one  resting  on  its 
top  and  the  other  on  its  side.  Next  came  the 
hospital  car,  which  was  also  derailed.  The  flat 
car  behind  it,  the  goods  car  laden  with  forage, 
and  the  engine  itself  were  left  on  the  rails. 

The  cavalryman  on  the  forge  was  hurled  into 
a  ditch,  made  prisoner,  and  kept  in  captivity  for 
nine  months,  when  he  was  finally  released. 
One  or  two  other  men  were  made  prisoners. 
The  car  containing  the  scouts  received  the 
heaviest  fire  ;  it  was  fairly  riddled  with  bullets. 
Three  of  the  four  scouts  were  wounded  at  the 
first  volley,  but  all  so  slightly  as  to  leave  them 
able  to  put  up  a  good  fight. 

Their  fire,  steady,  rapid,  and  deadly,  drove 
back  the  first  rush  of  the  insurgents.     The  four 


from  the  engine  en  the  left  side,  the  former  dis- 
charging his  pistol  into  the  face  of  a  Filipino 
before  he  jumped,  and  they  had  fled  down  the 
track  toward  Calulut.  The  civilian  on  his  way 
to  Angeles  was  shot  through  the  body  and  a 
number  of  soldiers  were  wounded. 

Such  was  the  situation  when  we  alighted  from 
the  carriage.  Both  sides  had  felt  the  fierceness 
of  the  onslaught.  Our  defenders,  thinking 
defeat  was  certain  on  account  of  such  over- 
powering numbers,  had  left  for  Angeles.  The 
insurgents,  meeting  such  determined  resistance 
where  they  had  expected  little  or  none,  drew  off 
for  the  moment  in  surprise,  aware  that  they  had 
suffered  no  small  percentage  of  casualty. 

In  an  instant  we  had  taken  in  the  situation. 
We  had  been  given  a  breathing  space  in  which 
to  act,  and  we  must  use  it.  The  engine  stood 
on    the    track,    hissing    forth   clouds   of  steam. 


'tiieik  fire  drove  back  the  first  rush  of  the  insurgents. 


then  left  the  car,  alighting  on  the  left  side, 
where  there  were  no  insurgents  ;  and  after  being 
joined  by  a  handful  of  ex-invalids  started  up  the 
track  for  Angeles,  fighting  as  they  went.  They 
did  not  stop  to  look  for  us,  thinking  we  had 
either  escaped  or  been  killed.  Some  of  the 
soldiers  on  the  train  were  killed.  The  Hospital 
Corps  man  was  shot  dead  in  the  door  of  his  car, 
a  soldier  lay  dead  beside  the  track,  and  corpses 
of  dead  insurgents  and  Macabebes  could  be 
seen  here  and  there  by  the  side  of  the  wrecked 
train. 

The  engineer  and  fireman  had  jumped  down 


Hasty  inquiries  were  made  to  find  someone  who 
could  run  it.  We  all  realized  it  to  be  our  one 
chance  of  escape.  But  not  a  single  man  in  the 
little  crowd  could  run  an  engine. 

In  despair  I  ran  to  the  iron  horse  myself, 
calling  out  as  I  ran,  "  Stand  clear  till  you  see  if 
I  blow  her  up  when  I  try  to  move  her.  If  I 
don't,  pile  the  wounded  in  that  box-car,  clinlb 
in,  and  I'll  run  her  somehow  or  other." 

Two  things  I  knew  about  a  locomotive  engine, 
and  two  things  only  :  I  knew  there  was  a  reverse 
lever  and  a  throttle,  and  I  knew  the  general 
location  of  both. 


'56 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MACJAZINE. 


As  I  jumped  into  the  cab  a  bullet  struck  the 
ironwork  beside  me.  The  rifles  began  to  crack 
again  from  the  bamboo  thicket  a  couple  of 
hundred  yards  distant.  The  insurgents  had 
discovered  our  movements  and  might  come 
down  upon  us  at  any  moment.  We  had  seconds, 
not  minutes,  in  which  to  work. 

The  throttle  lever  ran  in  a  slit,  with  a  word  at 
each  end  — 
"open  "  and 
"shut."  To  my 
dismay  it  stood 
at  "open."  If 
the  throttle  was 
open,  why 
didn't  the  brute 
move?  I  shut 
my  eyes  and 
threw  the  lever 
back  to  "shut." 
I  opened  them, 
thankful  no- 
thing had  hap- 
pened. The 
reverse  lever 
was  within  two 
notches  of  full 
reverse,  but  it 
didn't  take  me 
long  to  get  it 
two  notches  far- 
ther back.  As 
I  did  so  she 
moved  slightly. 
I  opened  the 
throttle  a  little 
and  she  obeyed 
it.  She  backed 
up  so  that  Cap- 
t  a  i  n  I^  o  w  e 
could  uncouple 
the  flat  car 
from  the  hospi- 
tal car,  and  we 
were  ready  to  go. 

Bullets  were  flying  thick,  and  the  insurgents 
had  really  started  for  us  when  I  gave  that  old 
engine  full  speed  ahead  down  the  track.  She 
may  have  been  an  old  bone-shaker,  but  she  did 
very  well  that  day.  I  gave  a  glance  at  the 
steam-gauge  and  nearly  fainted.  It  registered 
nearly  two  hundred  pounds  !  My  ideas  as  to 
that  old  engine's  capacity  for  steam  were 
rather  vague,  but  I  didn't  think  siie  could  carry 
that  amount  long.  To  tell  the  trutii,  I  was 
awfully  nervous  about  ihe  steam  until  we  over- 
took and  picked  up  the  engineer,  who  explained 


I    THREW    THE    LEVER    BACK    TO       SHUT. 


to  me  that  a  bullet,  which  had  broken  the  glass 
over  the  face  of  the  gauge,  had  dislocated  the 
hand  in  some  way.  As  he  seemed  to  thmk  I 
was  a  hopeless  idiot  for  ever  dreaming  the  old 
engme  could  hold  two  hundred  pounds  of 
steam,  I  didn't  pursue  the  question. 

To  bring  the  story  to  a  close,  we  got  down  to 
Calulut  some  way,  though  Providence  had  much 

to  do  with  our 
staying  on  the 
track.  There  we 
found  General 
Lloyd  Wheaton 
and  several 
companiesof  in- 
fantry ready  to 
relieve  us  of  the 
train  and  speed 
back  to  the 
scene  of  the 
wreck.  But 
though  they  got 
there  as  soon  as 
possible,  the  in- 
surgents were 
safe  within  their 
own  lines  before 
the  Americans 
could  overtake 
them. 

That  train  and 
engine  were  so 
marked  up  and 
riddled  by  bul- 
lets as  to  be  the 
principal  ob- 
jects of  interest 
along  the  rail- 
way for  some 
time.  After  an 
inspection  of 
the  carriages  it 
seemed  wonder- 
ful indeed  how 
any  of  the  occu- 
pants of  the  coaches  escaped  death.  The  marks 
of  over  seventy  bullets  were  found  in  and  around 
the  engine  cab,  which  tended  to  show  that 
the  insurgents  had  planned  to  prevent  anyone 
from  escaping  by  those  means.  So  heavy 
was  the  hail  of  bullets  around  the  engine  at 
one  time  and  another  during  the  fight  tiiat  the 
escape  without  wounds  of  the  engineer  and 
fireman,  and,  for  that  matter,  of  myself,  was 
nothing  short  of  the  best  of  luck. 

Such   is  the  story  of   my   first  and   last  ex- 
perience as  an  engine-driver. 


Some  Japanese   Signboards. 


Bv  Charles  Ashton. 


Amusing  specimens  of  "  English  as  she  is  written"  on  would-be  "smart"  tradesmen's  signboards  in 
Japanese    towns.      Some   of    the    notices    are    decidedly    curious,   and    much    ingenuity    is    required    to 

decipher    them. 


the    Japanese    have 
Western     knowledge 


^lEATLY    as 

.idvanced  in  ..^...^...  ,...^„  .^^j,. 
(luring  the  last  thirty  years,  that 
time  has  been  too  short  to  ensure 
them  against  occasional  lapses  in 
the  use  of  the  King's 
English,  and  these 
sometimes  give  as  much 
amusement  to  the 
travelling  Englishman 
as  his  own  blundering 
attempts  at  the  expres- 
sion of  his  wishes  in 
the  Japanese  language 
must  afford  to  the  ever 
polite  race  among 
whom  he  finds  himself. 
Of  the  multitude  of 
travellers  who  yearly 
visit  Ja{)an,  a  large 
proportion  are  armed 
with  cameras,  but  to 
none  of  them— so  far 
as  the  present  writer  is 

aware — has  it  ever  occurred  to  take  a  photo- 
graphic record  of  the  odd  signboards  which  are 
often  to  be  seen.  It  may,  therefore,  be  worth 
while  to  reproduce  here  a  few  tyi)ical  examples 
taken  in  Tokio  and  Yokohama.  Anyone  stay- 
ing longer  in  the  country  than  the  writer  did, 
or  travelling  in 
remote  districts 
where  the  know- 
ledge of  English 
is  less,  might  find 
many  and  much 
more  amusing  in- 
stances, but  the 
following  will 
serve  as  a  first 
instalment,  to 
which  other 
travellers  may  be 
able  to  make 
large  additions. 


Frovi  a 


COAL   MERCHANTS    SIGNBOARD 


^ 


P 


TOlSBAm  BEAW^  OR  TO  OKESS 

■       0Am,*   WAY 


brmi!  a\ 


A    UAUBliU  S    liOAKD    AT   TOKIO. 


First  we  have  the  keeper  of  a  small  coal  store 
at  the  foot  of  one  of  the  roads  leading  up  to  the 
"bluff"  or  hill  in  Yokohama,  on  which  most 
of  the  foreign  residents  live.  Following  the 
example  of  many   of  his   kind  he   dignifies  his 

appellation  by  the  ad- 
dition of  the  vague 
word  "  Co."  —  which 
may  signify  anything 
between  a  large  number 
of  solvent  merchants 
in  combination  and  a 
man's  own  wife  and 
bairns  —  and  then  he 
shows  how  the  con- 
tinual prosperity  we  all 
seek  for  is  to  be  gained, 
in  his  case  by  his  being 
"  honest  and  industo- 
rious."  Let  us  hope 
he  practises  what  he 
[^reaches. 

If  we  go  up  to  Tokio 
we  find  in  the  main 
up  to  the  University  this  large 
sign,  in  which  the  readiness  "  to  shave  beard  " 
is  quite  correctly  expressed.  The  neighbour- 
hood of  a  large  staff  of  able  foreign  professors, 
however,  has  not  prevented  the  first  letter  of 
the  word  "  dress  "  becoming  an  "  O,"  and  one 

is  left  a  little 
puzzled  as  to 
what  "  o  r  e  s  s 
hairs  way  "  may 
mean.  Probably 
it  is  an  invitation 
to  have  one's 
hair  cut.  But  as 
it  stands  it  is 
evidently  con- 
sidered a  credit- 
able effort  in 
expression  of 
idea  and  worthy 
of  imitation,   for 


{Photo. 


Street 


leading 


w 


^ 


i^ 


[Photo. 


J58 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAc;a/INE. 


"  so    NEAKl.Y   RIGHT,    HUT   YET   SO   WRONG. 

From  a  Photo. 


an  exact  counterpart  —  evidently 
a  copy — is  to  be  seen  a  mile 
farther  east,  near  Uyeno  Station. 
In  the  same  thoroughfare, 
about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  farther 
from  the  University,  is  the  simple 
little  inscription  above  shown, 
which  is  so  nearly  right,  but  yet 
so  wrong.  At  first  sight  one  tries 
to  make  a  separate  word  out  of 
the  first  line,  and  then,  helped 
by  the  realistic  picture,  one  gets 
the  idea  that  the  first  line  is  like 
a  sum    in    addition,    with  some- 


anyway?  It  is  only  when  the  seeker  after 
knowledge  sees  in  the  shop  two  or  three  gold- 
embroidered  military  uniforms  that  light  dawns 
on  him.  It  is  the  abode  of  an  army  tailor,  who, 
because  he  puts  gold  lace  on  some  of  his 
"creations,"  thought  to  describe  himself  as  a 
"gold  tailor,"  and  gave  a  different  turn  to  the 
expression  by  omitting  the  last  two  letters  of 
the  second  word. 

Nearly  opposite  to  him  is  the  perfectly  in- 
telligible, but  nevertheless  somewhat  brutal,  sign 
of  a  butcher  who,  though  he  makes  his  meaning 
clear,  coins  his  own  words  for  the  purj^ose. 
However,  they  do  very  well,  and  "  cowmeat  "  is 


From  d\ 


THIS    BUTCHER  S    SIGN    IS    FRANK,    IF    SOMEWHAT    IIKL'JAL. 


\rhoto. 


From  a] 


WHAT    DOES  THIS    SHOI"  SELL? 


iPhoto. 


a  fair  substitute  for  beef,  though  our 
butcher  friend  omits  to  take  into  con- 
sideration the  fact  that  bullocks  usually 
furnish  the  supply. 

But  it  is  not  to  cattle  only  that  beef  is 
due  in  Japan.  At  least,  the  butcher  near 
the  buildings  of  the  Diet,  who  describes 
his  establishment  as  a  "  Horse  liF  Shop," 
puts  in  the  first  word  so  fully  and  clearly 
that  there  is  no  doubt  about  the  source 
of  his  raw  material  ;  and  when  one  sees 
on  the  counter  a  number  (jf  joints  ready  for 
sale,  it  is  easy  to  fill  up  in  the  second  word 
the  two  letters  of  which  it  has  been  shorn 


thing  to  carry  over.  Much  more 
ambitious  and  hard  to  resolve  into 
reason  is  the  next  specimen  repro- 
duced, which  is  to  be  seen  about 
a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the 
British  Legation.  As  a  tail  made 
of  gold  is  an  unusual  appendage, 
it  is  usual  for  those  to  whom  this 
problem  is  submitted  to  inungine 
that  the  first  wf)rd  begins  with  a 
"C"  instead  of  a  "(),"  but  after 
pronouncing  it  thus  a  few  times 
they  find  themselves  no  nearer  an 
answer.       What     is    "  cold    tail," 


From  a] 


A    LICENSED   VICTUALLER  S   NOTICE   BOARD. 


[Photo. 


SOME    JAPANESE    SIGNBOARDS. 


159 


To  turn  from 
eatables  to  drink- 
ables we  find  that, 
at  a  wine  -  shop 
near  theShinbaslii 
Raihvay  terminus, 
Mr.  S.  Aj^uchi 
announces  himself 
i  n  a  r  u  n  n  i  n  g 
hand,  rather  ir- 
regularly written ; 
and  having  men- 
tioned in  the  first 
line  that  he  has 
the  "Best  of 
Liquor,"  he  adds 
in  the  second  as 
a  separate  item  "  And  Wine  ligor"  —  which  is 
evidently  something  different. 


From  rt) 


THE     'JUiMONJI    PATENT   GUN    OFFICE. 


{Photo. 


I    I '.  i      U  1 .  L  1  -  K 

hroin  a\ 


.1.    IMMi  A  i  1- I)   ..\     IHli    SIGN    IN 
INTKKl'RET   THEiM  ? 


gun  department  is 
to  provide  for  the 

shooting. 

D  i  f f i  c  u  1 1  ies 
abound  in  the  next 
e.xample  shown, 
which  is,  or  was, 
to  be  admired  in 
a  street  between 
the  English  and 
German  Lega- 
tions. Unfortu- 
nately, one  must 
use  the  past  tense, 
for  when  'I'aneko, 
the  proprietor  of 
this  gem,  found 
that  a  foreigner  came  to  photograph  his  sign- 
board, he  became  suspicious  that  there  must  be 

something  odd  about  it. 
So  he  took  it  down  and 
replaced  it  by  one  in 
Japanese  characters  only, 
in  which  he  felt  less 
likely  to  commit  himself 
The  last  word  in  the 
inscription  is  the  shop- 
owner's  name,  and  the 
first  words  describe  his 
wares.  Exactly  what  they 
are  it  may  be  difficult  to 
make  out  until  it  is  ex- 
plained that  the  Japanese, 
whose  language  is  one 
of  vowel  sounds,  try 
always  in  pronouncing 
English  to  modify  our 
harsher  syllables.  The 
\.i'koto        l^t-ter  "  1,"  too,  does  not 


Following  theGinza,  the  Regent 
Street  of  Tokio,  eastward  for  a 
mile  we  come  to  the  "Jumonji 
Patent  Cuii  Office,"  a  large,  well- 
to-do-looking  establishment  which 
opens  its  announcement  by  put- 
ting a  personal  (question  as  to  the 
tastes  of  the  passer-by.  There 
are  not  many  sportsmen  among 
the  Japanese  who  would  rej)ly 
that  they  loved  shooting,  but  to 
them  the  giin  on  the  sign  would 
sufficiently  explain  the  second  part 
of  the  incjuiry.  The  first  portion, 
"I)on't  you  love  your  life?"  is 
quite  unintelligible  till  one  sees 
revolvers  exposed  for  sale  in  the 
shop  front.  These  are  evidently 
to    protect    your    life,    while    the 


Tins   MVSTEKIOUS  ANNOUNCEMENT   DENOTES  A   FLI^KIERS   bllOI'. 

From  a  Photo. 


i6o 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


"  Souda,"  then,   is  a 
sasupre "    sarsa- 


exist  to  them  ,  they  have 
difficulty    in  giving    that 
sound,    and    accordingly 
turn  it  off  into  what  with 
us  is  represented  by  "  r." 
Now,  if  we  look  at  Mr. 
Taneko's  sign  with  these 
hints  in   mind,  by  substi- 
tuting   "1"    for    "r"    in 
his  first  word  we  obtain 
something  like  lemonade. 
This  is  a  distinct  clue, 
modification    of    soda,    and 
parilla,  while  "  zinzinbiya  " 
and  "jinjiyae-1"  are  noth- 
ing    more    or    less    than 
ginger-beer  and  ginger-ale 
softened  down  into  a  kind 
of  smooth  sing-song  !     So 
the     whole     reads     thus  : 
"  Lemonade.  Soda.  Sarsa- 
parilla.      Ginger -beer. 
Ginger-ale." 

Kawachiya,  who  has  his 
little  shop  on  the  steep 
Kudan  Hill  in  Tokio,  has 
under  the  eaves  of  his 
roof  and  above  the  sliding 
panels  which  serve  him 
for  wnlls  the  rather  am- 
biguous statement  that  he 
is  "  to  trade  hair-skin-sort 
shop."  Peep  into  the  shop 
itself  and  you  will  find 
that  "  hair-skin-sort  "  is 
a      roundabout     way     of 

saying   furs    and  deerskins,    which    are    Kawa- 
chiya's  staple  industry. 

Now  we  go  back  to  Yokohama,  where  a 
Chinese  tailor  with  a  defect  in  his  visual  organs, 
nicknamed  ac- 
cordingly by  some 
foreigner  years 
ago,  has  accepted 
the  designation 
seriously  and  put 
it  above  the  front 
of  his  shop. 

To  the  same 
origin  is  due  the 
style    and    title 


THIS   YOKOHAMA    TAILOR    TOOK    AN    ENGLISH    NICKNAME 

From  a\  seriously.  [Photo. 


A  silversmith  in  the  same  city   made  A  similar 
I-rotn  a\  MISTAKE.  [Photo 


of  Whisky  Boy,  a  Japa- 
nese silversmith,  who 
does  very  good  work, 
but  is  credited  with  a 
thirsty  disposition.  He 
winds  up  a  rather  diffuse 
statement  of  what  he  is 
prepared  to  do  by  the 
words  "  other  difficult 
employment  in  sure  "  in 
letters  becoming  gradu- 
ally larger  as  the  sign-painter  found  he  had 
hardly  enough  to  eke  out  the  line  with.     Even 

then  he  could  only  get 
half-way  across  the  board, 
so  he  had  to  fill  up  the 
deficiency  with  a  good 
big  "  &:c."  thrice  repeated. 
It  has  not  been  possible 
to  give  an  illustration  of 
a  highly  characteristic  in- 
stance of  perverted  mean- 
ing which  appeared  on  a 
signboard  in  Osaka,  which 
described  the  shop  owner 
as  "  Monopolist  of  Milk." 
What  he  thus  said  was 
that  he  controlled  the 
milk  of  the  universe  !  He 
meant  to  say  that  he  was 
a  milkman  —  and  no 
more. 

We  return  to  Tokio  for 
the  last,  and  perhaps  the 
best,  of  the  series.  This 
is  to  be  found  on  the 
right-hand  side  of  the  street  leading  from  the 
English  Church  to  the  Shiba  Park  and  temples. 
Two  cocks  in  the  centre  form  a  sort  of  coat 
of  arms,  and  below  them  is  the  mystic  legend, 

"Extract  of  Fowl." 
The  Chinese 
characters  on 
either  side  signify 
what  is  exposed 
for  sale  in  the 
shop  below,  and 
explain  what  is 
meant  by  "  E.x- 
tract  of  Fowl"— 
simply  eggs  ! 


THE   GEM    OI-'    THE   COLLECTION —"  EX  I  R ACT   Ol'    I-OWL  "    MEANS    EG(;S  ! 

From  a  Photo. 


3    TRAMP    lis    SPAIN. 

By    IJakt    K^■;.^■^■I■:I)^•. 

Vn._FROM    MADRID   TO    (TuADALAJARA. 

Our  commissioner's  journey  northward  from    Madrid   to    Guadalajara,  via  Torrejon    and   Alcala  de 

Henares.     Mr.   Kennedy  describes  the  "  Feast  of  Our  Lady  of  the  Rosary,"  which  he  had  the  good 

fortune  to  witness,  and  his  quaint  experiences  at   "  the  birthplace  of  Cervantes." 


PICKED  up  my  knap.sack  and 
descended  the  stairs  of  the  hotel 
into  the  hall.  At  once  I  was 
surrounded  by  waiters  and  porters 
and     interpreters     and     boys     and 

servants  of  all  sorts  and  sizes  and 

descriptions.      I   could   feel    their 

eyes   all   over   me — concentrated, 

so  to  speak,  into  one  intense  gaze 

that  was  at   once    critical,-  expec- 
tant,  and   ingratiating.      I    could 

feel  my  measure  being  taken  from 

crown  to  toe.     For  me  it  was  a 

moment   of    anxious   excitement. 

As  I   moved  they  moved.     As  I 

glanced  they  glanced.     All  I  had 

in   my   pocket   was   two    hundred 

pesetas  (about  six  pounds).     My 

funds  had  withered  through  gazing 

on  the  sights  of  Madrid.  .1  grasped 

the  two  hundred  pesetas  firmly  in 

my  hand  as  it  lay  in  my  pocket, 

breathed  hard,  and  tried  to  dodge. 

Useless  ;  these  hotel  servants  of 

sunny   Spain    knew  a  thing  or 

two.    They  were  before  me  and 

behind  me  and  around  me,  and 

at  one  stage  of  the  game  I  was 

afraid    that    they   would   down 

me  and  take  the  two  hundred 

pesetas  from  me.     But  at  last  I 

escaped — escaped  with  a  loss  of 

twenty-five  pesetas. 

Here  I  was  standing  outside 

the  hotel  in  the  Calle  de  Alcala. 

I  was  slowly  recovering  from  the 

scrimmage  I  had  had  with  the 

servants  who  would  be  tipped. 

I  was  just  beginning  to  realize 

that    I  was   lucky   to   have  got 

out  of  the  hotel  with  any  money 

at  all. 

After  fortifying  myself  with  a 

very  strong    drink    in    the  cafe 

next  door  to  the  hotel  I  again 

found  myself  in   the   Calle  de 

Alcala  —  thinking.       But  in  a  moment   I  was 

myself  again,   and   I   turned  to  the   right  and 

moved  slowly  along— knapsack  in  hand. 

It  was   light,   this    knapsack,   for    I    had    left 

everything  behind  me  in  the  hotel  that  was  not 

Vol.  xi.— 21.  Copyright,  1903,  by 


absolutely  necessary  for  me  to  carry.  I  had  a 
long  tramp  before  me,  and  the  having  to  carry 
everything  on  my  back  chastened  my  require- 
ments as  to  luggage. 

There  were  a  great  many  people  in  the  street, 


A1     LA.ST    I    ESCAIEU. 


for  it  was  Sunday, 
and    Sunday    in 
Madrid  is  really 
a    holiday — a   day  of  re- 
joicing.     And,  moreover, 
that  afternoon  there   was 
to  be  a   bull-fight  in  the 
Plaza  de  Toros.     The  great  matador,  Luis  Maz- 
zantini,  was  to  show  his  power  with  the  sword 
in  the  killing  of  bulls. 

Here   I  was  up  to  the  Plaza  de  Madrid,  and 
I  turned  round  for  one  last  look   towards  the 

George  Newnes,  Limited. 


l62 


THE    WIDE    WOREl)    AEACiAZlNE. 


Puerta  del  Sol.  Perhaps  I  would  never  see  it 
again. 

Madrid  itself  looked  so  fresh  and  beautiful 
and  full  of  light.  The  sun  was  shining  with  a 
wonderful  brightness.  It  was  the  beginning  of 
October,  and  the  deadly  heat  had  gone  from  it. 
But  still  it  shone  with  a  strange,  illuminating 
brilliance.  Shone  in  a  way  that  it  never  shines 
in  England. 

I  was  now  in  the  Plaza  de  la  Independencia,  and 
stretching  out  before  me  were  parks  and  gardens 
— and  palaces  in  the  distance.  At  this  moment 
of  brilliant  sunshine — illumining  distant  palaces 
and  open  plazas,  and  soft  greenness  of  park  and 
garden,  and  noble  public  statuary — Madrid 
appeared  to  me  to  be  the  most  beautiful  city  I 
had  ever  seen. 

At  last  I  could  see  the  great,  sullen  roundness 
of  the  bull-ring  to  my  right,  and  soon  after  that 
I  was  out  of  the  city  and  at  the  Venla  del 
Espiritu  Santo.     Madrid  was  behind  me. 

Once  more  I  was  on  the  road.  My  destina- 
tion was  Zaragoza  (Saragossa),  which  lay  three 
hundred  and  twenty-three  kilbmetros  to  the 
north-east.  I  had  tried  to  find  out  something 
of  the  nature  of  the  country  through  which  I  had 
to  pass,  but  no  one  seemed  to  know  anything 
about  it.  I  had  met  no  one  who  had  ever 
travelled  by  road  through  the  country.  The 
only  man  whose  knowledge  promised  to  be  of 
any  value  was  an  Englishman  who  had  lived  for 
a  long  time  in  Madrid.  But  he  turned  out  to  be 
a  person  gifted  with  imagination.  He  told  me 
of  a  Si)aniard  who  lived  in  the  Calle  de  Arenal, 
and  who  sold  bicycles  to  bicyclists.  The 
Englishman  averred  that  this  Spaniard  knew 
every  twist  and  turn  and  quip,  so  to  speak,  of 
the  road  going  up  north.  But  the  Spaniard  was 
only  a  polite  tradesman  who  knew  nothing 
further  than  the  fact  that  the  road  to  Guadala- 
jara went  out  past  the  bull-ring.  This  in- 
teresting fact  I  knew  myself,  and  after  glean- 
ing it  for  the  second  time  I  departed  in 
search  of  a  road  map.  But  in  vain.  There 
was  none  to  be  liad.  No  one  knew 
anything  about  anything  concerning  the 
road  going  from  Madrid  to  Zaragoza.  No 
one  knew  anything  even  about  the  distance 
between  the  two  places.  I  had  to -find  that  out 
for  myself  in  the  fulness  of  time.  At  last,  in 
despair,  I  went  and  got  a  railway  map — for  a 
railway  did  run  to  Zaragoza.  But  a  railway  map 
is  a  fearful  and  wonderful  thing.  It  is  built 
expressly  for  the  eye.  I  was  forced  in  the  end 
to  fall  back  on  an  ordinary  map  of  Spain — pub- 
lished in  Paris — which  told  me  nothing  further 
than  that  Zaragoza  lay  to  the  north-east,  and 
that  before  I  got  there  I  would  have  to  negotiate 
many  mountain  chains. 


I  was,  therefore,  walking  along  the  road 
armed  with  information  of  the  vaguest  and 
slightest  kind.  I  had  not  the  remotest  idea  of 
what  was  before  me.  All  that  I  really  knew 
was  that  it  was  a  beautiful  day,  and  that  I  was 
walking  through  the  province  of  Castile,  in 
Spain. 

Here  was  a  pueblo  (village)  called  Canillejos. 
I  had  been  walking  now  for  about  two  hours, 
and  was  feeling  in  a  little  better  form  than  when 
I  had  started.  I  had  strapped  my  knapsack  up 
on  to  my  back  and  was  beginning  to  feel  com- 
fortable. 

In  the  pueblo  men  were  engaged  building  a 
house.  I  stopped  to  look  at  them.  It  seemed 
rather  rough  on  them  to  have  to  work  on  a 
Sunday.  But  they  were  not  hurting  them- 
selves. They  were  going  about  it  very  easy — 
giving  the  bricks  and  stones  and  mortar  time  to 
set.  It  would  be  a  good  house  when  it  was 
built. 

I  went  up  to  a  Guardia  Civil,  who  was 
leaning  against  a  wall,  thoughtfully  smoking  a 
cigarette,  and  I  managed  to  ask  him,  after  some 
labour,  the  distance  to  Torrejon  de  Ardoz.  I 
had  found  out  that  it  was  on  the  road  along 
which  I  was  going,  and  its  being  marked  on  the 
map  showed  that  it  was  a  place  of  some  size. 
The  Guardia  Civil  informed  me  that  it  was  doce 
(twelve)  kilbmetros  from  where  we  were — 
Canillejos — and  after  giving  him  a  cigarette  I 
passed  on. 

Gradually  I  entered  on  to  a  great  plain  that 
was  bounded  on  either  side  by  mountains. 
The  mountains  showed  dim  and  blue  in  the 
distance.  On  the  road  before  me  lay  Torrejon 
de  Ardoz.  The  air  was  so  clear  that  it  seemed 
as  if  I  were  away  from  it  but  a  couple  of  kilb- 
metros. I  could  make  out  the  houses  and  a 
church  and  a  tower  with  great  distinctness.  It 
looked  but  a  couple  of  kilbmetros  away,  but  I 
knew  it  must  be  nine  or  ten  by  a  cart  that  was 
coming  along  the  road  towards  me.  The  town 
was  as  clear  to  see  as  was  the  cart,  but  I  calcu- 
lated by  objects  in  between  that  it  must  be 
something  over  four  times  as  far  away.  There 
was  something  strange-looking  about  the  town. 
It  seemed  to  rise  right  up  over  the  plain. 

By  this  time  I  was  feeling  rather  hungry  and 
I  turned  into  a  ventorro  (inn)  that  lay  along  the 
road.  No  one  seemed  to  be  around.  I  clapped 
my  hands  again  and  again,  and  at  last  a  big  dog 
came  to  the  front  of  the  inn  and  began  to  bark 
loudly.  I  cracked  my  latigo  at  the  dog  and  he 
made  off.  And  then  an  old  woman  appeared 
behind  the  little  bar  of  the  ventorro.  She  came 
so  quietly  and  so  suddenly  that  she  startled  me. 
An  old  woman  with  a  keen,  sallow-coloured  face 

"  Vino  ?  "  I  asked. 


A     TKAMl'     IN     SI'AIX. 


163 


■T^r 


ON    TUli   KOAU    liEFOKE   .ME    LAY   TOKKEJON    DE   AUUOZ. 

"  Si,"  she  answered,  as  she  put  a  jar  of  wine 
on  the  counter.    "  Que  cuanto  ?  "  (How  much  ?) 

For  answer  I  put  a  ten-centinio  piece  on  the 
bar,  and  slie  filled  me  up  a  jug  which  contained 
about  a  pint  of  wine.  A  pint  of  wine  for  less 
than  a  penny  !     It  was  cheap. 

l"he  wine  was  good  and  I  called  for  another. 
And  then  I  thought  about  something  to  eat. 
]Jut  when  I  asked  the  old  woman  in  my  clipped, 
halting  Spanish  about  food,  she  did  not  seem 
to  understand.  Again  and  again  I  approached 
the  subject,  helping  out  my  words  with 
appropriate,  primitive  gestures.  But  it  was  of 
no  use.  And  in  the  end  I  sat  down  with  the 
idea  in  my  mind  that  the  keen-faced  old  woman 
knew  what  I  was  driving  at  the  whole  time, 
but  for  some  reason  or  another  she  did  not 
want  to  get  me  the  food.  I  would  have  to  wait 
till  I  came  to  another  ventorro,  or  till  I  got  to 
Torrejon  de  Ardoz. 

I  ordered  another  jug  of  wine —wine  was 
much  belter  than  nothing — and  then  1  began  to 
meditate  about  the  wonders  of  Spain.  AVhat  a 
fine  thing  it  was  to  be  here  in  Castile,  the  home 
of  sunshine  and  chivalry  and  legend  and 
glowing  romance.  This  ventorro  was  so  pic- 
turesque and  strange.  It  might  have  been  here 
at  the  time  of  ^  the  Moors.  How  wonderful 
everything  was.  But — well,  how  was  I  going 
to  get  some  grub  ?  This  thought  suddenly 
knocked  the  poetry  out  of  my  imaginings.     I 


I 


A- 


\ 


^  stood  up  and  again  approached  the  food 
problem.  The  eyes  of  the  old  Spanish  woman 
twinkled. 

I  was  in  the  middle  of  the  history  of  my 
wants  when  a  loud,  harsh  voice  came  forth  from 
the  interior  of  the  ventorro.  A  man  appeared 
— a  bow-legged,  square-set  man.  He  turned 
out  to  be  Ezekiel,  the  proprietor  of  the  ventorro. 
His  voice  was  harsh  11  nd  his  face  was  harsh, 
but  he  became  amiable  when  I  told  him  of 
the  "gran  torrida  "  (great  bull-fight)  I  had  seen 
in  Madrid,  with  Luis  Mazzantini  as  principal 
matador.  I  had  hit  upon  a  topic  at  once  safe 
and  productive,  for  I  was  soon  enjoying  a  meal 
of  huevos  (eggs),  sardines,  bread,  and  onions. 

Once  more  I  was  on  the  road  going  to 
Torrejon.  This  time  I  was  going  at  a  sharp, 
swinging  pace.  I  was  feeling  at  peace  with  the 
world  in  general. 

The  sun  was  going  down  as  I  got  into  the 
town,  and  I  turned  into  the  first  posada  I  came 
to — the  Parador  del  Cristo.  I  was  asked  a 
number  of  questions  which  I  did  not  under- 
stand by  a  young  man  who  was  attired  in  a 
picturesque  costume.  He  turned  out  to  be  the 
son  of  the  sehora  who  kept  the  posada,  and  the 
reason  of  his  picturesqueness  of  attire  was 
because  there  was  a  feast  going  on — the  festa 
"  Nuestra  Senora  del  Rosario."  A  good  many 
people  were  in  the  covered-in  yard  of  the  posada. 
They  had  come  from  the  outlying  districts  so 


164 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


as  to  take  part  in  the  fcsta.  Nearly  all  of  them 
were  gaily  attired — men,  women,  and  children. 
They  gathered  about  me  whilst  the  young  man 
— the  son  of  the  proprietress — was  asking  me 
the  questions. 

I  told  them  that  I  had  come  afoot  from 
Madrid  and  that  I  was  going  afoot  to  Guada- 
lajara, and  after  that  to  Zaragoza. 

That  night  I  went  out  to  have  a  look  round 
the  town  in  company  with  Antonio,  a  grabador 
(engraver).  He  was  a  small,  slight  young  fellow, 
not  at  all  like  a  Castilian,  and  he  seemed  to  take 
an  interest  in  me.  We  went  together  down  the 
main  street  towards  the  plaza,  from  whence 
was  coming  the  sound  of  singing  and 
the  playing  of  instruments.  p 

The  plaza  was   a  blaze  of  light,  and 
from  out  of  it  there  was  coming  a  pro- 
cession   of    men,    women,    and 
children,  who  were  singing  and 
carrying  candles  and  torches.    In 
the    deep    shadow    outside    the 
immense    blaze 
of  light  stood  the 
church.     "Ora 
pro   nobis.     Ora 
pro  nobis."    The 
mingled  voices  of 
the  men,  women, 
and  children 
singing  the  litany 
swelled  up  in  the 
blaze  of  light  in 
the  plaza  and  out 
and   around  and 
into  the  darkness. 
And  chanting  priests 
headed   the  proces- 
sion.     Just    behind 
them  came   the 
figure  "  N  uestra 
Sefiora  del  Rosario  " 
(Our   Lady  of   the    Rosary). 
It  was    raised  high   up  aloft 
over  the  heads  of  the  people, 
supported     on     a     structure 
carried    by  four  men.     The 
priests    were     swinging     censers     as    they 
marched  slowly  along,  chanting.    "  Ora  pro 
nobis."      The     Latin     words    came     forth 
solemnly.     And  out  and   out  of  the   plaza 
the  people  went.     Antonio   and    I   joined 
the  end  of  the  procession  and  went  along 
with  heads  uncovered.    I  turned  and  looked 
round,  and  there  was  the  plaza  in  silence 
and  darkness.     It  had  been  one  great  blaze 
of  light  when   I  had  seen  it  first,   but  now 
it    was    dark    and     silent    as    the    grave. 
"  Ora  pro  nobis."    The  words  were  swelling 


out  solemnly  before  us  as  we  went  slowly 
along.  The  deep  voices  of  the  priests  and 
the  men  mingled  with  the  voices  of  the 
women  and  the  voices  of  the  children.  And 
over  all  was  the  great  light  from  the  hundreds 
of  candles  and  torches.  A  light  that  moved  and 
cast  shadows  strangely  and  still  was  one  great, 
soft  blaze,  in  the  midst  of  which  was  the  figure 
"  Nuestra  Sehora  del  Rosario."  Slowly  the  pro- 
cession wound  round  Torrejon,  till  at  last  it  came 
back  to  the  plaza  and  gradually  made  it  again 
one  blaze  of  light.  All  the  time  the  voices 
were  singing.  "  Ora  pro  nobis."  And  then  the 
procession  went  towards  the  old  church  that  lay 


"    IllKV    MAKCFIED    SLOWLY    ALONi;,  CIIAN'I  INC.     '  OKA    I'KO   NOBIS.' 


A    TRAMP    IN    SPAIN. 


165 


in  the  ilcc[)  shadow.  And  now  the  chuiiii  was 
one  great  l)la/e  of  V\'j,\)[.  And  a  prii'st  clad  in 
vestments  mounted  the  steps  to  an  altar,  shining 
in  the  hght,  and  began  again  the  chant,  and  the 
whole  people  chanted  in  response. 

I  liked  Antonio,  the  grabador.  We  were 
sitting  by  the  wood  fire  that  night  in  the  posada, 
trying  to  talk  together.  We  were  as  opposite  as 
men  could  be,  opposite  in  race  and  every  way, 
but  still  we  were  trying  to  talk  together.  There 
was  some  sympathetic  chord  between  us. 

He  was  asking  me  what  sort  of  a  place 
London  was,  and  I  was  trying  as  well  as  I  could 
to  give  him  some  idea  of  it.  If  I  understood 
him  aright  he  was  also  saying  that  he  would  like 
to  go  there  and  work  as  a  grabador. 

It  is  curious  how  men  can  sometimes  ex- 
change ideas,  even  when  they  speak  a  different 
language.  It  must  depend  upon  some  conso- 
nance of  temperament.  Although  I  could  not 
follow  Antonio's  words  I  knew  what  was  in  his 
mind.  And  I  think  he  could  follow  me  in  the 
same  sort  of  way. 

At  last  the  fire  in  the  great  hearth  got  low 
and  we  went  off  to  the  part  of  the  posada  where 
the  peo[)le  slept.  It  was  in  the  covered-in  yard 
where  I  had  stood  first  when  the  son  of  the 
senora  who  kept  the  place  had  been  asking  me 
questions.  It  presented  an  odd  sight  as 
Antonio  and  I  went  in.  It  was  lit  up  by  three  or 
four  long  candles,  and  men,  women,  and  children 
were  sleeping  in  it  together.  They  slept  in 
their  clothes  on  separate  piles  of  twigs  or  rushes. 
Here  in  the  dim  light  was  to  be  seen  a  child, 
here  a  man,  here  a  woman.  Some  had  blankets, 
some  had  not.  My  pile  of  twigs  or  rushes  was 
next  to  Antonio's.  It  was  primitive,  but  I 
didn't  mind.  I  had  knocked  around  too  much 
and  seen  too  much  to  mind  a  little  roughing  it, 
so  I  lay  down,  put  my  knapsack  under  my  head, 
and  wrapped  myself  in  the  blanket  that  the 
seiiora  had  provided.     Soon  I  was  asleep. 

I  was  awakened  next  morning  by  the  stamping 
and  the  noise  of  the  mules  who  were  occupying 
what  might  be  called  an  extension  of  our  slee^)ing 
compartment.  I  rubbed  my  eyes  and  looked 
round.  Daylight  was  just  coming  in.  I  could 
see  it  through  a  chink  at  the  top  of  the  big 
door.     A  candle  was  still  burning. 

As  no  one  seemed  to  be  stirring,  I  turned 
round  and  fell  asleep  again.  When  I  woke  up 
again  I  found  that  they  had  all  gone.  I  got 
up  and  went  into  the  plaee  where  the  fire  was. 
Antonio  was  there  drinking  coffee.  The  senora 
who  kept  the  posada  was  also  there.  She  was 
having  a  stiff  argument  with  a  woman  who 
was  cooking  at  the  fire  as  to  how  much  the 
woman  owed  her.    It  was  concerning  a  difference 


of  citico    (IWc)    centimos.      The     woman     who 
was  cooking  won. 

Antonio  was  very  friendly,  and  asked  me  to 
share  his  coffee  with  him.  It  seemed  that  there 
was  something  special  on  that  morning — the 
nature  of  which  I  could  not  (juite  understand — 
and  he  had  to  get  out  quickly.  When  he  was 
gone  I  spoke  to  the  seiiora  about  getting  break- 
fast, but  there  was  a  deadlock  somewhere.  It 
took  me  nearly  half  an  hour  before  I  made  her 
understand  that  I  wanted  breakfast. 

After  I  had  breakfast  I  paid  the  score — three 
pesetas — and  got  my  knapsack  up  on  to  my 
back.  My  intention  was  to  make  Guadalajara 
that  day — a  distance  of  thirty-six  kilbmetros, 
But  just  as  I  was  going  out  of  the  door,  after 
bidding  farewell  to  the  seiiora  and  her  son,  I 
heard  someone  across  the  street  shouting 
"toros,"  and  then  I  saw  several  people  running 
along  in  the  direction  of  the  plaza.  I  asked 
what  was  the  matter,  and  the  reply  I  got  gave 
me  to  understand  that  there  was  to  be  a  corrida 
that  day,  and  that  the  bulls  were  just  being 
brought  in  to  Torrejon. 

I  left  my  knapsack  in  the  posada  and  hastened 
down  to  the  plaza,  but  when  I  gqt  there  I  found 
that  the  bulls  had  been  taken  off  to  the  campo 
(field).  People  were  going  in  the  direction 
where  they  were  and  I  joined  in, with  them.  I 
was  anxious  to  see  how  the  bulls  looked  when 
they  were  not  fighting  in  the  circus. 

There  they  were,  about  half,  a  mile  away, 
grazing  peaceably.  Quiet,  black,  powerful  animals. 
It  was  almost  difficult  to  believe  that  they  were 
of  the  same  breed  of  bulls  that  I- had  seen  fight- 
ing terribly  in  Seville  and  Madrid.  People  were 
standing  close  enough  to  them  to  touch  them. 

I  came  back  to  the  plaza  and  made  inquiries 
as  to  what  time  the  bull-fight  was  to  begin.  I 
was  told  four  o'clock.  Workmen  were  now 
erecting  a  barricade  around  the  plaza.  There 
was  no  regular  bull-ring  in  Torrejon,  and  the 
bull-fight  was  to  take  place  there.  Trees  were 
here  and  there  in  the  plaza,  and  I  wondered 
how  che  picadors  would  manage  to  escape  being 
unhorsed  in  the  rush  of  the  fight.  I  tried  to  get 
information  as  to  this  from  a  stout  Spaniard 
who  was  directing  the  erection  of  the  barricade. 
Put  he  was  uimble  to  enlighten  me  on  the 
subject.  'Phe  danger  of  having  a  bull-fight  in 
a  plaza  wherein  there  were  trees  had  never 
occurred  to  him.      He  was  not  a  picador. 

In  the  main  street  leading  from  the  plaza  there 
were  stalls  whereat  venders  of  all  sorts  of  things 
were  calling  out  the  merits  of  their  wares.  And 
here  it  was  that  I  came  u[)on  Antonio,  the 
grabador.  He  was  sitting  down  at  a  little  low 
stall,  with  his  engraving  tools  before  him.  The 
reason  of  his  hurry  to  get  out  of  the  posada  that 


1 66 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


morning  was  now  jjlain.  He  had  been  anxious 
to  get  a  [)lace  as  near  to  tlie  actual  bull-ring  as 
possible. 

We  shook  hands  and  I  tried  to  find  out  wliat 
he  was  going  to  engrave.  But  his  explanation 
was  not  very  clear  to  me.  The  noise  the 
venders  were  making  was  confusing.  It  seemed 
to    me    that    he    was   saying   something   about 


engravmg  names  on  ruv^s. 


The  plaza  was  now  filling  up  again  with  the 
people  who  were  coming  back  from  the  campo 
after  having  seen  the  bulls.     They  just  slipped 
in    under    the    partially-made    barricade — men, 
women,  and  children.      And  a  band  began  to 
play  from  a  terrace  at  the  end  of  the  plaza  and 
they  began  to  dance.     The  men  wore  flat  cloth 
caps    shaped    like    tam-o'-shanters,   the    women 
wore  mantillas  and  had  their  hair  done  up  in 
the  usual  fashion,  and  the  children  were  dressed 
anyhow.  All  were 
dancing.     The 
sounds  from  the 
hammers  of  the 
workmen     broke 
into    the    music, 
but  no  one  took 
any  notice  ;   they 
danced    on    and 
on.      A    curious 
sort    of    dance 
with  a  waltz  step. 
Parties    of    four 
danced  together. 
They  bowed  and 
figured,  and  then 
whirled   round 
and  round  with- 
out touching 
each  other,  their 
arms    held    up 
high.      And    all 
the    while    the 
workmen  were 
hammering  away 
at   the   barricade 
and  swinging  big 
timbers  and  logs 
into    place,    and 
hauling  up  heavy 
waggons    to  but- 
tress and  streng- 
then   the    struc- 
ture. 

For  a  mad- 
dened bull  would 
rush  with  fright- 
ful power.  A 
maddened  bull 
breaking  the 


^y 


barricade  would  mean  death  to  those  within 
reach.  And  so  the  barricade  was  to  be  made 
tight  and  safe  and  strong.  And  here  were  the 
workmen  hammering  and  hauling  and  shifting 
and  swinging  and  placing  while  the  band  played 
and  the  people  danced. 

I  went  back  to  the  posada,  and  at  four  o'clock 
I  was  again  at  the  plaza.  The  barricade  was 
up  now  and  the  stands  behind  it  were  filled  with 
people  shouting.  I  climbed  up  into  a  stand  and 
looked  down.  About  fifty  men  and  boys  were 
running  here  and  there  and  around  in  the  en- 
closed space.  They  were  baiting  and  plaguing  a 
very  young  bull.  When  I  had  heard  the  shouts 
of  the  people  as  I  was  coming  from  the  posada 
I  had  thought  that  the  bull-fight  had  begun. 

I  turned  to  a  man  who  was  standing  next  to 
me. 

"  Porque    no    corrida  ? ''    (For    why    no    bull 

fight  ?)  I  asked. 

"Ah  !"  he  an- 
swered, "corrida 
manana." 

So  the  bull- 
fight was  not  to 
be  to-day  after 
all ;  it  was  to  be 
to  -  morrow.  I 
had  misunder- 
stood what  I  had 
been  told  in  the 
posada.  That 
was  the  worst  of 
only  knowing  a 
word  or  two  of  a 
anguage. 

I   came  down 
from     the    barri- 
cade—  made  for 
the  posada — and 
in    a    few    mo- 
ments I  had  my 
knapsack    once 
more  on  my  back 
and    was    tramp- 
at    a    good 
pace  towards 
Alcala  de  He- 
nares,  the  next 
t o w n   on   t h e 
line  of  march. 
It  was  only  ten 
kilbmetros  off, 
and  I  had  been 
told    that   it  was  a   big 
town    of    more    than 
twenty  thousand  inhabi- 
As  I  went  along  I  could 


mg 


tants. 


TFIl-Y    \VI-;|:F.    HAITING    and    lI.Af.UlNG    A    VOUNG    BUl.l., 


Still  hear  the  shouts  of  the  people 


A    'I'KAMl'    IX     SI'AIN. 


167 


ill  'lorrLJon.  They  were  enjoying  the  baiting  of 
tlie  young  bull.  I  wtnikl  like  to  have  seen  a 
bull-light  in  the  plaza,  tor  1  was  anxious  to  know 
how  the  picadors  were  going  to  negotiate  the 
trees  in  the  plaza  when  the  fighting  was  going 
fast.  I  had  seen  a  fight  in  Seville  and  a  fight 
in  Madrid,  but  this  idea  of  having  trees  in  an 
arena  was  original.  However,  I  did  not  care  to 
lose  a  day  waiting  for  il.  1  wanted  to  push  on 
to  Guadalajara. 

I  had  been  hardly  iialf  an  hour  on  the  road 
when  it  began  to  rain.  It  was  the  first  rain  that 
I  had  been  in  since  I  had  come  to  Spain.  I 
thought  at  first  that  it  might  seen  pass  off,  but 
I  was  mistaken.  It  got  steadier  and  heavier. 
There  was  no  wind  blowing  and  it  fell  down 
straight.  I  saw  that  I  was  in  for  a  drenching. 
There  would  be  no  bull-fight  the  next  day  in 
Torrejon  if  it  kept  on.  Had  I  waited  I  would 
likely  enough  have  had  the  wait  for  nothing.  I 
could  have  kept  dry,  of  course,  but  then  I  was 
not  made  of  salt.  And  I  wanted  to  push  on  ; 
the  tramp's  instinct  to  move  was  upon  me. 

'1  he  country  lying  in  the  direction  of  Alcala  de 
Henares  was  just  like  the  country  through  which 
I  had  walked  when  going  to  Torrejon.  Had 
the  day  been  fine  I  would  have  been  able  to 
have  seen  it  in  the  distance  before  me.  But  as 
it  was  there  was  nothing  to  be  seen  but  the 
surrounding  greyness  and  the  steady,  drenching 
rain. 

I  was  soon  wet  through,  but  I  kept  on,  on, 
till  I  saw  some  building  emerging  out  of  a  mist. 
It  was  Alcala  de  Henares.  I  would  go  no 
farther  that  day.  It  would  surely  have  a  good 
hotel  where  I  could  stop  and  rest  and  dry 
myself  out  generally. 

The  entrance  into  the  town  was  through  a 
great  gate.  But  I  was  stopped  just  as  I  was 
passing  quickly  in  by  two  armed  guards,  and 
requested  politely  to  come  into  an  office  that 
lay  to  the  left  of  the  gate.  Here  my  knapsack 
was  examined  with  care.  They  wanted  to  see 
if  I  were  carrying  anything  into  the  town  upon 
which  they  could  claim  a  duty.  In  Spain  there 
is  practically  a  Customs-house  office  in  every 
town.  Even  provisions  can't  go  from  one  place 
to  the  other  without  paying  duty. 

In  this  office  I  was  apprised  of  the  fact  that 
Alcala  de  Henares  was  the  birth{)lace  (f  Cer- 
vantes. The  man  who  went  through  iny  knap- 
sack told  me  this,  I  suppose,  to  cheer  up  my 
spirits. 

I  was  very  wet,  and  feeling  very  pessimistic 
about  things  in  general,  and  it  may  have  been 
that  the  information  inrparted  by  the  guard  had 
not  quite  the  stimulating  effect  he  seemed  to 
think  it  ought  to  have.  I  would  have  preferred 
a  drink  of  whisky  to  tomes  of  such  information. 


He  told  me  about  ("ervanies  three  times.  And 
had  I  been  gilled  with  a  How  of  Spanish  I 
would  have  put  to  him  with  vividness  my  in- 
difference as  to  the  matter.  After  he  had 
rubbed  the  information  in  he  told  nie  proudly 
that  Alcala  de  Henares  was  a  town  of  twenty- 
four  thousand  inhabitants,  and  that  it  was  in 
every  way  superior  to  Madrid.  I  was  really  glad 
to  hear  this.  There  would  probably  be  a  good 
hotel  in  it. 

But  he  was  a  good  sojt  of  fellow,  this  guard, 
even  though  he  was  afflicted  with  a  mania 
for  imparting  information,  for  he  piloted  me 
through  the  streets  to  the  Fonda  Hidalgo.  He 
still  kept  telling  me  things  as  I  walked  by  his 
side  through  the  rain.  When  we  got  to  the 
fonda  I  offered  him  a  peseta,  which  he  wouldn't 
take. 

In  the  Fonda  Hidalgo  I  was  received  most 
cordially.  The  landlord,  a  big,  strapping 
Castilian,  shook  me  warmly  by  the  hand.  But, 
nevertheless,  I  took  the  -precaution  of  asking 
him  what  the  tariff  was.  One  learns  to  do  that 
sort  of  thing  in  a  town  in  Spain.  It  is  less  apt 
to  lead  to  argument  when  you  get  your  bill  on 
leaving. 

Five  pesetas  a  day  I  Everything  was  all 
right. 

The  waiter  then  came  forward  and  I  asked 
him  to  get  me  a  drink  of  whisky.  But 
whisky  never  seemed  even  to  have  been  heard 
of  in  Alcala  de  Henares.  The  waiter,  who 
turned  out  to  be  a  travelled  man,  said  that  when 
he  was  a  soldier  in  Havana  he  had  once  taken  a 
drink  of  it.  But  Havana  was  a  long  way  off 
The  landlord  had  never  heard  of  it. 

"  Rhum  !  "  That  was  what  they  had.  Plenty 
of  it  !  And  soon  I  was  enjoying  a  great  drink  of 
rum  and  hot  coffee  sweetened  with  sugar.  The 
world  was  not  such  a  bad  place  after  all,  and 
Spain  was  beginning  to  recover  for  me  its 
romance. 

It  turned  out  that  the  waiter  had  been  a 
soldier  in  the  Philippines.  And  we  conversed 
in  a  zigzag,  broken  sort  of  fashion  about 
America. 

But  he  was  a  native,  he  told  me,  of  Alcala  de 
Henares.  Alcala  was  a  place  mucha  grande  ! 
A  place  more  grand  even  than  Madrid.  I 
pricked  up  my  ears.  And  then  what  I  half 
expected  came  out.  Alcala  de  Henares  was  the 
place  where  Cervantes  was  born. 

I  would  have  succumbed  but  for  the  fact  that 
I  was  fortified  with  the  big  drink  I  had  had  of 
the  rum  and  coffee.  However,  I  let  the  waiter 
ramble  on,  and  in  time  I  got  used  to  it.  His 
way  was  to  begin  about  something  concerning 
the  Philippines,  he  would  then  glide  on  to  line 
merits  of  Alcala  de  Henares  as  a  towi'i,  and  h^ 


i68 


THE   WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


would   finish    with    the    information   concerning 
Cervantes.      After  that  he  would  be"in  all  over 


agam. 


However,  his  wanderings  were  turned  to  some 
purpose  so   far  as   I   was   concerned,  for  he  got 


i 


NvcS 


HE    WOULD    FINISH    WITH    1  ME    INFORMATION    CONCERNING   CEKVANTES, 

the  cook  to  grill  a  steak  for  me  in  a  proper 
manner.  It  was  the  first  and  only  good  steak 
I  ever  had  in  Spain.  "Ah,"  he  said,  as  he 
brought  it  up  to  the  table,  "estaka  Ingles."  He 
may  have  been  at  some  time  or  another  in 
England — though  he  said  nothing  about  it. 

Uy  this  time  I  was  dry  and  feeling  comfort- 
able. I  carried  a  change  of  underclothing 
wrapped  in  strong  oil-paper  in  my  knapsack. 
This  I  had  put  on,  and  my  coat  and  shoes  were 
drying  in  the  kitchen  before  the  wood  fire.  The 
Fonda  Hidalgo  was  a  free  and  easy  hotel. 


All  the  while  I  was  eating  the  waiter  stood  by 
my  side  and  watched  me  carefully.  He  seemed  to 
take  a  fancy  to  me.  His  curiosity  was  of  the' 
unadulterated  order.  There  was  nothing  in  it, 
however,  that  was  in  the  least  way  irritating. 
He  was  anxious  to  attend  to  all 
my  wants. 

After  I  had  finished  eating  the 
landlord  came  up  and  talked  for 
a  while.  And  it  was  then  that 
I  was  forced  to  the  con- 
clusion that  the  people  of 
Alcala  de  Henares  were 
a  fine,  decent  lot,  but  that 
they  rather  overworked 
the  Cervantes  business. 

I  started  out  the  next 
morning  for  Guadalajara. 
It  was  still  raining,  but  I 
had  provided  myself  with 
an  umbrella,  for  which  I 
paid  eight  pesetas  at  a 
^1^1^'  I  shop  just  across  the  street 

«P  ^^B^^^Hr  from  the  fonda. 

Twenty-six   kilbmetros 

lay     between     me     and 

Guadalajara,   the   capital 

of   the   province.     After 

walking  fifteen  kilbmetros 

it    suddenly   cleared    up 

beautifully.    The  sunlight 

lit    up    the    great   plain 

wonderfully. 

I    was    still    walking    over    the    plain 

upon  which  I  had  entered  after  leaving 

Canillejos,    eight   kilbmetros   from 

Madrid.     I  could  see  far  ahead  of  me 

a   great    mountain    chain    running   right 

across  the  horizon.     When  I  turned  and  looked 

back  I  could  see  the  towers  and  the  houses  of 

Alcala  de  Henares  standing  out  clearly  over  the 

great  plain. 

The  plain  was  breaking  u[).  I  was  entering 
the  low  foot-hills  that  lay  at  the  base  of  the 
mountain  chain.  It  was  about  four  in  the  after- 
noon. I  had  met  hardly  anyone  since  I  had 
left  Alcala  de  Henares. 

The  road  now  turned  sharply  to  the  right, 
and  I  walked  up  a  winding,  steep  incline,  crossed 
a  river,  and  found  myself  in  Guadalajara. 


(To  be  continued.) 


Hoist   By   His   Own    Petard. 


By  H.  Mortimer   Lamb,   of  Victoria,   B.C. 

A    tragic    happening  at    a  Skagway  bank.     The    routine  of  the   establishment  was    rudely  upset   by  the 

advent   of  a  stranger,  who   demanded   twenty  thousand    dollars,    enforcing   his    request  with    a    stick  of 

dynamite  and  a  revolver.     Thereupon  followed  an  appalling  catastrophe. 


HE  life  of  a  bank-clerk  is  not  a 
career  one  commonly  associates 
with  the  idea  of  hair  -  breadth 
escapes  or  dangerous  adventures. 
Even  in  the  "Wild  West'  of  Ame- 
rica his  life  nowadays  is  more  or  less 
humdrum  and  uneventful.  The  onward 
march  of  civilization  has  been  rapid  in 
the  last  few  years,  and,  in  consequence, 
terms  once  apt  enough  to  describe  con- 
ditions of  life  in  Western  America  are  no 
longer  applicable.  The  "  road  agent  " 
has  virtually  disappeared,  "hold-ups," 
"  shooting  scrapes,"  and  lynchings  are 
of  comparatively  rare  occurrence,  and 
even  in  the  remoter  districts  law  and 
order  are  fairly  well  respected  and  main- 
tained. 

But  it  will  be  noticed  that  all  these 
statements  are  qualified  ;  for  every  once 
in  a  while  "old-timers"  are  forcibly  re- 
minded of  the  wild  pioneer  days  by  read- 
ing in  their  newspaper  an  account  of  some 
crime  of  peculiar  craft,  daring,  or  brutality, 
committed,  in  nine  cases  out  of  ten,  for 
little  other  cause  than  the  satisfaction  of 
an  inordinate  craving  for  notoriety  on  the 
part  of  the  criminal.  Thus,  for  example, 
not  so  very  long  ago  the  desperado  Tracy 
successfully  defied  the  entire  police  force 
of  the  State  of  \Vashington  while  he 
ranged  at  will  through  the  country-side, 
terrorizing  the  inhabitants,  and  demand- 
ing and  obtaining  food  and  service  at  the 
point  of  the  pistol.* 

In  the  case  I  am  about  to  relate  retri- 
bution followed  the  attempted  crime  with 
strange  and  startling  suddenness. 

Skagway  is  a  little  town  of  a  few  thou- 


sand people,  situated  in  the  disputed  territory 
in  Alaska,  but  administered  at  present  by  the 
United  States  Government.  It  is  the  western 
terminus  of  the  W^iite  Pass  and  Yukon  Rail- 
way and  the  gateway  to  the  Klondike  region. 


See  ■•  The  Hunting  of  Harry  Tracy,"  in  our  issue  for 
December,  iqo?.  —Ed. 
Vol.  xi.-22. 


SAY,    DO    VOU    KNOW    WHAT   THIS    IS! 


170 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    ALVCIAZINE. 


Lately  it  has  become  tolerably  respectable, 
but  111  the  days  of  the  first  gold  excitement 
Skagway  was,  without  doubt,  an  exceedingly 
"tough"  place  of  abode.  Since  the  death, 
however,  of  one  "Soapy  Smith,"  the  chief  of  a 
notorious  gang  of  criminals  and  desperadoes, 
there  has  been,  until  the  remarkable  occurrence 
at  the  Canadian  Bank,  a  marked  absence  of 
what  may  be  termed  sensational  crime. 


Lay,  being  away  on  a  holiday,  Me?.srs.  Pooley 
and  Wallace  were  left  in  charge  of  the 
bank. 

^Vhile  attending  to  their  ordinary  duties  they 
were  startled  by  the  sudden  entrance  of  a  man, 
who  walked  up  to  the  ledger-keeper's  wicket 
and,  producing  first  a  revolver  and  then  a  stick 
of  dynamite,  remarked  to  Mr.  Wallace,  "  Say, 
do  you  know  what  this  is  ?  " — he  pointed  to  the 


'the   crack    of    the    pistol    was    HANDI.V    HEAUO    I\    a     IKHNll-lC    REI'OKT    WHICH    IMMEDIATELY    FOLLOWED. 


Some  time  ago  the  Canadian  Bank  of  Com- 
merce opened  a  branch  establishment  in  Skag- 
way, the  staff  consisting  of  the  manager,  Mr. 
H.  M.  Lay  ;  the  accountant,  Mr.  C.  Pooley,  a 
son  of  the  Speaker  of  the  British  Columbian 
Legislature  ;  and  the  ledger-keeper,  Mr.  Wallace. 
During  the  season  the  branch  had  done  a  very 
considerable  business  in  exchanging  drafts  for 
gold-dust,  and  probably  the  knowledge  that  so 
much  treasure  was  thus  stored  close  at  hand 
suggested  the  idea  which  resulted  in  a  daring 
attempt  to  "  hold-up "  the  bank,  and  which 
ended  so  tragically. 

One  day  last   September,    the   manager,    Mr. 


dynamite  —  "  Well,    I    want    twenty   thousand 
dollars,  and  be  quick  about  it  !  " 

Mr.  Wallace  served  with  the  first  Canadian 
contingent  in  South  Africa,  and  is  a  man  of 
very  considerable  sang  froid,  so  that  this  start- 
ling request  did  not  have  quite  the  effect  it 
might  have  done  on  a  more  timid  person. 
"  Oh,  all  right,"  he  replied,  hardly  raising  his 
head.  Then,  after  waiting  to  jot  down  a  figure 
or  two  in  his  ledger,  he  strolled  leisurely  towards 
the  open  door  of  the  cash  safe.  This  the 
would-be  robber  permitted  him  to  do,  believing, 
no  doubt,  that  his  extiaordinary  demand  was  about 
to  be  quietly  acceded  to.      But  as  Mr.  Wallace 


HOIST    liV     HIS    OWN     IM/l'ARD. 


171 


passed  Pcjolcv,  who  had  made  a  step  forward 
in  order  to  get  joossession  of  a  gun  which  lay 
beneath  the  counter,  he  said,  "  Look  out  for 
yourself,"  in  a  low  tone. 

The  stranger  was  now  covering  Mr.  \\'allace 
with  his  revolver,  and  Mr.  I'ooley  quickly 
realized  that  he  stood  no  chance  of  possessing 
himself  of  his  firearm  and  getting  in  the  first 
shot,  so  he  accepted  the  advice  so  calmly 
tendered  him  and  glided   behind  the  big  steel 


the  dust  and  smoke  which  hung  thick  in  the 
air. 

"  No,  I  think  not,"  was  the  reply,  in  rather  a 
shaky  voice;  "just  a  bit  u[)set,  that's  all." 

Pooley  emerged  from  his  retreat,  and  the  two 
regarded  the  wrecked  office  in  silence,  wonder- 
ing at  their  marvellous  escape  from  death.  It 
was  difficult  at  first  to  take  in  the  situation,  the 
whole  affair  had  happened  so  quickly.  It  was 
not  easy  to  recognise  in  the  scene  of  destruction 


From  a\ 


THE    INTERIOR    OF   THE    liANK,    SHOWING   THE    EFFECTS    OF    THE   EXPLOSION. 


{Photo. 


door  of  the  open  safe,  where  he  was  in  com- 
parative safety  if  the  thief  opened  fire.  Simul- 
taneously Mr.  Wallace  made  a  bolt  through  the 
back  entrance  of  the  bank. 

As  he  did  so  the  man  realized  that  he  had 
been  duped  and  fired  his  revolver. 

The  crack  of  the  pistol  was  hardly  heard  in 
a  terrific  report  which  immediately  followed, 
succeeded  by  a  bewildering  turmoil  as  the  office 
furniture  was  flung  hither  and  thither  by  the 
force  of  the  explosion. 

Presently  the  mystified  Mr.  Wallace  forced 
his  way  into  the  building.  "  Are  you  hurt, 
Pooley  ?  "  he  asked,  anxiously,  peering  through 


before  them  the  comfortable  bank  quarters  with 
the  appearance  of  which  they  were  accustomed. 
Every  vestige  of  plaster  had  been  shaken  from 
the  walls,  the  laths  in  the  ceiling  were  torn 
away,  leaving  great  gaping  holes,  and  the  pictures 
had  been  hurled  from  one  end  of  the  room  to 
the  other.  Papers,  bank-notes,  and  coin  were 
scattered  in  every  direction,  and  the  furniture 
was  splintered  and  ruined. 

Meanwhile  residents  of  the  town,  alarmed  by 
the  explosion,  came  hurrying  up.  To  them 
Mr.  Pooley  related  what  had  taken  place  as  well 
as  his  agitated  state  of  mind  permitted.  It  then 
occurred  to  someone  to  inquire  concerning  the 


172 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


fate  of  the  author  of  the  outrage.  A  search 
was  foithwith  instituted  among  the  piles  of 
debris. 

'I'lie  first  thing  discovered  was  the  stick  of 
dynamite  deposited  by  the  desperado  on  the 
ledge  of  the  ledger  -  keeper's  wicket.  This, 
curiously  enough,  was  intact.  A  moment  later 
all  that  remained  of  the  unfortunate  uank- 
robber  was  found   amongst   the    litter    on    the 


Although  the  attempt  at  holding-up  the  bank 
thus  fortunately  failed,  the  damage  done  to  the 
building  was  very  considerable.  A  quantity  of 
gold-dust  was  also  temporarily  lost — scattered 
by  the  explosion- — but  by  careful  scrubbing  and 
scraping  of  the  walls  and  fioor  of  the  room  the 
missing  gold  was  all  recovered. 

At  the  inquest  which  followed  the  accident 
the  identity  of  the  robber  was  not  proved,  but 


\m^n  w- 


l?!^BW^ 


ifi^S^^^ 


■ri'flMM^-* 


I' 


-  wfflgBHIJ^y^ " 


:PM TKO\t>- »<!    BANK   OF    COM  !v 

*^j-  ^M.   ^  ^  ^  A  r  £^^M  m  m^  P  r  *.  I-  P-  '  "— *  ^  "T  ■  ■  a  f  *  *  ' 


Front  a] 


THE   OUTSIDE   OF   THE   OFFICE    AFTER   THE   EXPLOSION. 


iPhoto 


floor.  The  face  and  right  arm  had  been  blown 
completely  away,  and  altogether  the  body  pre- 
sented a  most  horrible  appearance.  Nemesis 
had  indeed  overtaken  him,  swift  and  terrible. 

The  fact  that  one  stick  of  dynamite  was  found 
untxploded  is  one  of  those  things  which  do  not 
admit  of  explanation,  dynamite  being  a  peculiar 
explosive.  The  ruffian  must  have  had  about 
his  person  a  further  supply,  which  was  exploded 
by  the  concussion  produced  by  the  firing  of 
the  revolver. 


he  is  believed  to  have  been  a  notorious  criminal, 
well  known  to  the  police  authorities  of  the 
Pacific  Coast  seaports.  From  the  evidence  it 
appeared  that  the  man  was  (juite  sane,  and  that 
in  holding-up  the  bank  his  plan  had  been  to 
possess  himself  of  the  large  sum  of  money  he 
demanded,  using  the  dynamite  to  blow  up  the 
building  with  in  order  to  cover  his  retreat. 
'J'hat  his  own  life  was  the  only  one  lost,  and 
that  by  his  own  mad  act,  is  the  most  curious 
part  of  a  remarkable  incident. 


The  Island  of  Captive  Kings. 


By  Alex.  H.   Kirk. 

Very  few  people  are  aware  that  on  the  remote  Island  of  Mahe,  in  the  Seychelles,  the  British  Government 

keeps  in   comfortable  confinement  a  collection    of  monarchs  who   have  been   deposed  and  deported  for 

their  countries'  good.     The  author  paid  a  visit  to  Mahe  and  had   interviews  with  the  exiled  Royalties, 

who  graciously  permitted  him  to  photograph  and  sketch  them. 


AR  out  in  the  Indian  Ocean,  a 
thousand  miles  from  the  nearest 
mainland  and  almost  directly  under 
the  Equator,  lies  the  Island  of 
Mahe,  the  largest  and  most  im- 
portant of  the  Seychelles  Archipelago.  Mahe, 
as  its  name  suggests,  was  originally  a  French 
colony.  It  was  taken  by  the  British  during  the 
Napoleonic  wars  some  ninety  years  ago.  In 
spite  of  its  position  it  is  one  of  the  most 
favoured  spots  on  earth.  Hurricanes,  droughts, 
fevers,  poisonous  reptiles,  or  refractory  natives 
are  unknown.  The  scenery  is  magnificent, 
mountains  rising  directly  out  of  the  sea  to  a 
height  of  from  one  to  three  thousand  feet, 
clothed  from  base  to  summit  in  the  rich  green 
of  tropical  vegetation. 

The  population  consists  almost  entirely  of 
liberated  slaves  from  East  Africa  and  their 
descendants.  Curiously  enough,  although  the 
island  has  been  for  so  many  years  a  British 
colony,  French  is  the  only  language  in  general 
use,  and  the  Code  Napoleon  is  still  the  law  of 
the  land.  Poverty  and  want  have  no  place  in 
Mahe.  There  is  plenty  of  work  for  all,  either 
on  the  vanilla  estates  or  at  the  busy  little  port, 
where  numbers  of  small  schooners  carry  on  a 
contmual  trade  with  the  neighbouring  islands. 
The  sea  abounds  in  fish,  and  the  land  produces 
almost  all  the  necessaries  to  supply  the  simple 
wants  of  the  inhabitants.  It  is  therefore  scarcely 
surprising  that  General  Gordon,  after  some 
months'  residence  in  the  island,  thought  that 
he  had  discovered  in  it  the  Garden  of  Eden. 

Such  is  the  place  that  Great  Britain  has 
chosen  as  a  land  of  exile  for  some  of  the 
savage  tyrants  of  the  Dark  Continent, 
who  stood  as  barriers  to  all  progress  and 
humanity  in  the  countries  over  which  they  ruled, 
and  were  accordingly  deposed. 

First  in  importance  comes  the  historic 
Prempeh,  ex-King  of  Ashanti.  This  man  estab- 
lished in  his  kingdom  a  reign  of  terror  without 
parallel  even  in  the  history  of  Africa.      In  spite 


of  continual  warnings  from  the  British  authori- 
ties,  he  raided  the  neighbouring  territories  and 
carried  off  the  inhabitants  as  slaves  or  victims 
for  human  sacrifices.  The  taste  for  blood 
finally  acquired  such  a  hold  on  the  King  and 
his  people  that  hundreds  of  natives  were 
annually  .sacrificed  at  Kumasi.  In  order  to  put 
a  stop  to  this  terrible  state  of  affairs  the 
British  (iovernment  in  1895  dispatched  an 
armed  expedition  to  Kumasi,  under  the  leader- 
ship of  Sir  Francis  Scott.  Little  or  no  resist- 
ance was  offered  by  the  Ashantis,  but  the 
expedition  suffered  considerable  loss  of  life 
(including  that  of  Prince  Henry  of  Battenberg) 
owing  to  the  deadly  nature  of  the  climate. 

General  Baden-Powell,  who  accompanied  Sir 
Francis  Scott,  has  written  a  vivid  account  of 
what  they  found  after  entering  Kumasi.  He 
says  :  "  In  England  we  scarcely  realize  the  extent 
to  which  human  sacrifices  had  been  carried  on 
in  Ashanti  previous  to  the  late  expedition,  but 
evidences  were  not  wanting  to  show  it.  In 
the  first  place  Kumasi  means  the  '  Death  Place.' 
The  town  possessed  no  fewer  than  three 
places  of  execution.  One,  for  private  execution, 
was  at  the  palace  ;  a  second,  for  public  decapi- 
tations, was  on  the  parade  ground ;  a  third,  for 
fetich  sacrifices,  was  in  the  sacred  village  of 
Bantama."  He  then  goes  on  to  show  how  every 
public  festival  or  great  event,  especially  if  con- 
nected with  the  King,  was  celebrated  by  the 
slaughter  of  many  victims,  adding  :  "  As  a  rule 
they  were  killed  without  extra  torture,  but  if  an 
order  was  given  for  an  addition  of  this  kind 
the  executioners  vied  with  one  another  in  devis- 
ing original  and  fiendish  forms  of  suffering.  In 
great  executions  torture  was  apparently  resorted 
to  in  order  to  please  the  spectators."  It  is  even 
said  that  Prempeh,  not  being  content  with  the 
colour  of  some  of  the  walls  of  the  palace,  had 
them  redone,  using  for  the  puipose  the  blood 
of  four  hundred  captives  ! 

After  the  British  had  occupied  Kumasi 
Prempeh  was  forced  to  make  public  and  abject 


174 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


m 


submission  to  Sir  F.  vScott  by  kneeling  before 
liini  and  placing  his  head  between  the  general's 
feet.  Never  before  had  an  Ashanti  King  been 
thus  humiliated.  After  this  ceremony  Prempeh 
had  to  be  most  carefully  guarded,  as  it  was 
feared  that  the  Ashantis  would  kill  him. 
Finally,  he  and  his  family,  together  with  a  large 
following  composed  of  chiefs,  executioners,  and 
slaves,  were  conveyed  to  the  coast  and  from 
there  to  the  Seychelles. 

During  a  recent  visit  to  Mahe  I  took  the 
opportunity  of 
visiting  Prempeh 
in  his  present 
home.  I  was  lucky 
enough  to  obtain 
a  most  capable 
guide,  the  wife  of 
one  of  the  chief  c 
English  residents 
of  the  place 
After  a  walk  of 
about  three  miles 
from  the  town  of 
Port  Victoria,  the 
capital  of  the 
island,  we  arrived 
at  a  small,  two- 
s  t  o  r  i  e*d  house 
standing  back 
among  the  cocoa- 
nut  trees  and 
approached  by  a 
narrow  path,  end- 
ing in  a  flight  of 
steps  leadmg  up 
to  a  large  veranda. 
This,  1  was  told, 
was  the  abode  of 
the  fallen  Ashanti 
monarch.  At  first 
the  only  sugges- 
tion I  got  that 
the  house  was  not 
occupied  by  some 
peaceable  planter 
was  the  sight  of  a  khaki-clad  policeman  wander- 
ing about  in  the  garden.  One  of  these  men 
went  for  the  interpreter,  who  soon  appeared, 
and  at  once  went  to  tell  Prempeh  that  visitors 
awaited  him  outside.  A  few  minutes  later 
Prempeh  himself,  dressed  in  a  loose-fitting 
flannel  suit,  walked  down  the  steps  and  solemnly 
shook  hands.  He  is  a  big,  well-built  man,  with 
a  dignified  and  somewhat  self-satisfied  manner. 
His  face  is  of  a  by  no  means  low  type,  and  when 
he  smiles  his  expression  suggests  gentleness 
rather  than  ferocity.  The  colour  of  his  skin  is 
a  dark,  rich  brown,  unlike  the  .sooty  blackness 


rRF.MI'F.r!    \VALKl;U    DUWN    THE   STlil'S   AND    SOLEMNLY   SHOOK    HANDS. 


of  the  average  W^est  African  negro.  When  it 
was  explained  to  him  that  I  wished  to  photo- 
graph and  sketch  him  and -his  family,  m  order 
that  the  people  in  England  might  see  what 
they  were  like,  he  seemed  pleased,  and  nodded 
his  head  in  a  slow  and  thoughtful  manner.  He 
said,  through  his  interpreter,  that  he  would  go 
and  change  his  clothes,  and  thereupon  disap- 
peared into  the  house.  During  his  absence 
refreshments  were  served.  These  consisted  of 
fresh  cocoa-nuts,  with  a  hole  cut  in   the  end  of 

sufficient    size    to 

-^^.^^^  allow  one  to  drink 

•^.^  the  milk. 

Whilst  engaged 
^~^^  in    the   somewhat 

^  .  '  difficult     task     of 

trying  to  drink 
without  choking, 
\\c  were  continu- 
ally being  watched 
by  little,  bright- 
eyed  Ashanti  chil- 
dren, who  looked 
very  quaint  and 
pretty  as  they  ran 
from  one  place  of 
safety  to  another. 
Their  dress  in 
several  cases  con- 
sisted merely  of  a 
band  round  the 
waist  and  two  tails 
hanging  down, 
back  and  front, 
which  jumped  and 
waggled  in  a  very 
comical  manner. 
The  antics  of 
these  little  peo{)le 
were  so  entertain- 
ing that  I  hardly 
noticed  a  tall,  thin 
man,  dressed  in  a 
large  coloured 
sheet  thrown  over 
his  left  shoulder,  stroll  by.  On  being  told, 
however,  that  he  was  one  of  Prempeh's  chief 
executioners,  I  was  most  anxious  to  get  him  to 
stand  for  his  portrait,  but  he  would  have  nothing 
to  do  with  us,  and  stalked  off  with  a  sullen, 
pensive  air.  No  doubt  he  feels  that  his  is  now 
a  wasted  life,  and  that  he  may  never  again  be 
able  to  practise  his  profession,  or  show  his 
masterful  skill  in  inventing  new  and  original 
tortures. 

A  general  bustle  on  the  veranda  now  pro- 
claimed the  f.ict  that  I'rempeh  was  about  to 
reappear.     This    he    did,   accompanied    by   the 


THE    ISLAND    OF    CAl'l'iVK     KINC.S. 


X 


u  n.:'.\.^ 


/    '>' 


invited  into  the  house  to  witness  Prempeh  sign 
his  name,  an  accomplishment  of  which  he  was 
very  proud.  While  he  was  engaged  in  this 
laborious  undertaking  there  was  time  to  have  a 
good  look  round  the  room.  The  furniture  was 
simple  in  the  extreme,  consisting  of  the  table 
at  which  Prempeh  sat,  several  chairs  and  stools, 
and  a  couch  covered  with  a  green  cloth.  On 
the  walls  hung  some  cheap  calendars  and 
advertisements ;  beyond  this  there  was  no 
attempt  at  decoration.  In  the  meantime  the 
Royal  chair  had  been  brought  in,  still  zealously 
guarded  by  the  aged  attendant.  Having  j)re- 
viously  noticed  a  quantity  of  charms  hanging 
under  the  seat,  I  got  up,  intending  to  closely 
examine  them.  No  sooner  had  the  old 
man  behind  the  chair  perceived  my  object 
than  he  became  much  agitated,  and  waved 
me  away  with  violent  gesticulations.  I 
accordingly  abandoned  the  attempt. 


ONE    0|-    I'I.EMI'UH  S   CHIEF    EX'ECU  TKIN  I-.KS. 

aged  Queen-Mother  and  his  father,  all  dressed, 
like  the  executioner,  in  long  coloured  sheets. 
Then  followed  an  old  man,  carefully  carrying  a 
large  black  wooden  chair,  studded  with  brass 
nails  and  ivory.  On  the  seat  was  a  large  red 
cushion,  standing  upright.  When  Prempeh 
was  about  to  sit  down,  then,  and  then  only,  was 
the  cushion  carefully  laid  on  the  seat  of  the 
chair.  The  object  of  this  formality,  which  is 
strictly  observed,  is  that  none  save  the  King 
himself  may  ever  sit  on  the  Royal  chair  of 
Ashanti. 

When  the  party  had  finally  settled  themselves 
on  the  steps  leading  from  the  veranda,  I  pro- 
ceeded to  take  several  photographs  and  make 
sketches.      This  having  been  got  through,  I  was 


Kl.M.    I  Kl-.n  i.U     I. 

Frovi  a\ 


1- L  l.L    ivlii.Al.lA,    WITH    TIIIC    KOVAL    CHAUJ   UF 
ASHANTI.  [Photo. 


THE   QUEE>'-M0T11ER. 


By  this  time  Prempeh  had  finished  his  auto- 
graph, which  he  duly  presented  to  me.  My 
friend  then  asked  me  if  I  would  like  to  hear 
Prempeh  count  in  English,  adding  that  it 
would  give  him  immense  pleasure  to  do  so. 
Accordingly,  leaning  back  in  his  chair  and  star- 
ing fixedly  at  the  ceiling,  he  started,  "  One,  two, 
tree,"  etc.  When  later  on  he  got  stuck,  my 
friend  encouraged  him  by  saying,  "  Very  good, 
Prempeh  ;  go  on  !  "    Then,  suggestively,  "  thir — 


176 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


PREMPEH   SIGNING   HIS   NAME — HE   IS  VERY   PROUD   OF   THIS   ACCOMPLISHMENT. 


thir "     "Thirty,"  the  ex-King  would  say  at 

last,  and  start,  "thirty-one,  thirty-two,"  etc.,  until 
in  this  manner  a  hundred  was  reached.  The 
whole  proceeding  struck  me  as  so  ridiculous  that 
I  could  hardly  keep  myself  from  laughing.  Here 
was  the  bloodthirsty  Prempeh,  a  man  whose 
actions  have  sent  a  thrill  of  horror  through  the 
civilized  world,  being  talked  to  by  an  English 
lady  in  the  same  way  as  she  would  have  spoken 
to  a  junior  member  of  an  infant  school ! 

It  was  now  time  to  take  leave  of  our  interest- 
ing host,  which  we  did  by  again  shaking  hands, 
at  the  same  time  promising  him  a  portrait  of 
himself  to  commemorate  the  visit.  I  have 
since  received  an  autograph  letter  from 
Prempeh,  thanking 
me  for  the  picture. 
This  document  is 
here  reproduced. 

On  the  way  back  I 
visited  the  Ashanti 
village,  which  is 
situated  some  dis- 
tance from  Prempeh's 
house.  In  this  village 
are  the  exiled  chiefs 
of  Kumasi,  their  wives 
and  servants.  All 
these  people,  I  was 
told,  live  quietly  and 
peaceably  together, 
and  give  the  authori- 


Kumasi.      At 


ties   lilllc    or   no 
troul)le. 

On  continuing 
my  walk  home  I 
was  lucky  enough 
to  meet  Asibi, 
ex-King  of  Ko- 
kofu.  He  was 
strolling  along 
the  road,  dressed 
in  a  khaki  suit, 
surmounted  by  a 
large  white  i)ith 
helmet.  Kokofu 
is  one  of  the 
minor  kingdoms 
of  Ashanti,  and 
its  chief,  although 
a  King,  is  under 
the  sway  of  the 
paramount  King 
of  Ashanti.  Five 
years  after  Prem- 
peh had  been 
taken  prisoner 
Sir  F.  Hodgson 
was  appointed 
that    time    King 


Governor  at 
Asibi  was  in  Kumasi,  and  expressed  his 
loyalty  to  the  Queen  of  England  and 
her  representative.  In  spite  of  this,  however, 
he  entered  into  communication  with  some  of 
the  neighbouring  tribes,  who  were  then  in  a 
state  of  revolt,  and  came  to  an  understanding 
with  them  by  which,  had  the  rebels  been  suc- 
cessful, he  would  have  been  placed  on  the 
Golden  Stool  as  paramount  King  of  Ashanti 
until  such  time  as  the  exiled  Prempeh  might 
return.  Sir  F.  Hodgson,  however,  having  been 
informed  of  Asibi's  treachery,  had  him  at  once 
arrested  and  conveyed  to  the  fort  before  even 
his  own   people  realized  what  was  taking   place. 


*^LnjAM^^^    ^"^    ^I^XX^tu/^ 


fRCMPEH  S    LETTER    TO   THE    AU  I  IIOK    •IllANKlNG    HIM    lOK    HIS    rlCPLKE. 


THE    ISLAND    OF    CAPTIVE    KINGS. 


177 


On  the  termination  of  the  unsuccessful  siege  of 
Kumasi  by  the  rebels,  Asibi  was  sent  to  join 
his  late  chief  Prempeh  in  exile. 

OwinLT  to  the  chance  manner  in  which  I  met 
him,  and  being  without  an  interpreter,  I  was 
unable  to  hold  any  conversation  with  him. 
Possibly  this  was  no  great  loss,  as,  judging  by 
appearances,  he  is  a  somewhat  low  type  of 
negro.  The  departure  of  Asibi  was  the  closing 
incident  of  this  most  interesting  afternoon. 

The  next  visit  I  paid  was  to  Kabbaregga,  ex- 
King  of  Unyoro,  and  Mwanga,  ex-King  of 
Uganda.  Unyoro  and  Uganda  are  two  adjoin- 
ing kingdoms  situated  on  the  northern  shore 
of  the  Victoria  Nyanza  Lake.  The  Waganda 
and  Wanyoro,  as  the  people  of  these  countries 
are  respectively  called,  have  a  common 
origin,  language,  and  customs.  Mwanga 
and  Kabbaregga,  their  Kings,  are  of  the 
same  lineage,  and  were  both  equally  ambitious 
and  cruel.  These  two  men  have  in  their 
day  figured  largely  in  African  history.  Kab- 
baregga is  the  older  of  the  two.  He  first 
came  into  prominence  in  1872,  when  Sir 
Samuel  Baker  invaded  his  country  with  a  view 
to  annexing  it  to  the  Soudan.  In  this  he  was 
unsuccessful  and  retreated  to  the  Nile.  In 
1876  General  Gordon  did  annex  some  of  the 
northern  provinces  of  Unyoro,  but  the  Egyptian 
garrisons  were  afterwards  withdrawn,  with  the 
result  that  Kabbaregga,  on  retaking  the  country, 
proceeded  to  massacre  all  those  who  had  been 
friendly  to  tlie  invaders.  This  caused  General 
Gordon  to  dispatch  Emin  Pasha  on  a  mission 
to  the  King  to  try  and  induce  him  to  put  a  stop 
to  these  reprisals.  During  Emin's  stay  at 
Mpara,  the  capital  of  Unyoro,  he  saw  a  good 
deal  of  Kabbaregga  and  formed  a  somewhat 
high  estimate  of  his  character,  describing  him  as 
well-mannered,  dignified,  and  hospitable. 

From  that  lime  onwards  Unyoro  seems  to 
have  been  in  a  continual  state  of  war  in  one 
part  of  the  kingdom  or  another.  There  was  a 
chronic  war  with  Uganda,  as  well  as  several  civil 
wars  to  subdue  Kabbaregga's  brothers,  who  had 
set  themselves  up  as  independent  chiefs  in  remote 
parts  of  the  kingdom.  In  1887,  owing  to  the 
conquests  of  the  Mahdi  in  the  north,  Emin 
Pasha,  prior  to  the  arrival  of  the  relief  expedi- 
tion led  by  Sir  H.  M.  Stanley,  entered  into 
negotiations  with  Kabbaregga  for  the  passage  of 
Egyptian  troops  through  tb,e  latter's  country. 
For  this  purpose  he  sent  Major  Casati  to  Unyoro. 
He  was  received  with  great  coolness  by  the 
King,  who  rejected  his  present  of  ivory,  and 
finally  treated  him  so  cruelly  that  he  narrowly 
escaped  with  his  life.  After  Uganda  became  a 
British  Protectorate,  Kabbaregga  was  a  continual 

source    of    trouble    to    the    authorities    in    that 
Vol.  xi— 23. 


country.  Finally,  owing  to  his  complicity  with 
Major  Macdonald's  mutinous  Soudanese  soldiers, 
he  was  deported,  together  with  Mwanga,  in 
the  year   1899. 

Several  interesting  accounts  have  been  written 
about  the  customs  of  Unyoro  and  its  late  King. 
Kabbaregga  had  a  great  love  for  cattle-breeding, 
and  is  said  to  have  had  as  many  as  150,000 
head  of  large  cattle,  the  result  of  continual 
raids.  In  the  Court  of  Unyoro  the  possession 
of  enormously  fat  wives  was  considered  an 
emblem  of  great  wealth  and  distinction  on  the 
part  of  the  King.  Kabbaregga  had  some 
specially  fattened  women,  who  attained  such  a 
size,  owing  to  a  special  diet,  that  they  could  only 
move,  and  then  with  the  greatest  difficulty,  on 
their  hands  and  knees. 

Although  of  a  somewhat  cruel  nature,  he  did 
not  indulge  to  any  large  extent  in  human 
sacrifices.  During  times  of  great  danger  and 
perplexity,  however,  the  King,  on  the  advice  ot 
sorcerers,  would  have  recourse  to  the  ceremony 
of  the  mpango,  or  axe,  in  order  to  propitiate  the 
spirit  of  Kamrasi,  his  deceased  father.  During 
these  rites  innocent  peasants  and  passers-by 
were  caught  and  immediately  murdered,  in  order 
to  appease  the  supposed  anger  of  the  spirit  of 
the  departed  monarch.  These  rites,  however, 
seem  only  to  have  been  practised  at  rare 
intervals,  as  wanton  bloodshed  is  displeasing  to 
the  feelings  of  the  Wanyoro. 

Mwanga,  the  hereditary  enemy  of  Kabbaregga, 
succeeded  the  notable  tyrant  Mtesa  in  1884, 
being  at  the  time  eighteen  years  of  age.  He  is 
said  to  have  been  chosen  from  among  his 
brothers  on  account  of  his  great  resemblance  to 
his  father.  He,  however,  showed  from  the  com- 
mencement of  his  reign  that  he  was  quite 
unfit  for  his  high  position.  Being  a  young  man 
with  a  hard  heart  and  a  warped  mind,  he  soon 
destroyed  the  little  good  his  father  had  done. 
One  of  his  first  actions  was  to  get  rid  of  the 
old  Ministers,  and  to  place  foolish  and  badly- 
disposed  men  in  their  place. 

rhe  story  of  the  long  and  bitter  feud,  which 
took  place  later,  between  the  Roman  Catholic 
and  Protestant  parties  has  been  vividly  told  by 
General  Sir  F.  Lugard.  During  these  quarrels 
the  vacillating  and  cowardly  Mwanga,  encouraged 
by  the  Arabs,  had  recourse  to  massacres  and 
tortures  of  the  most  horrible  description.  In 
18S5,  by  Mwanga's  orders,  Bishop  Hannington, 
on  entering  Uganda,  was  murdered  with  his 
entire  party.  From  that  time  onwards  the 
King's  conduct  went  from  bad  to  worse,  until, 
owing  to  the  discovery  of  a  plot  against  the 
liritish,  he  fled  with  a  large  following.  He  then 
raised  the  standard  of  revolt,  declared  himself 
a     Mohammedan,    and     was    joined    by   many 


178 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


outlaws  from  the  German  sphere.  His  force 
at  this  time  numbered  about  two  thousand 
men,  armed  with  guns.  After  much  severe 
fighting,  resulting  in  the  death  of  several  British 
officers,  he  was  finally  captured,  in  1899,  ^^'■'^h 
Kabbaregga,  as  before  stated.  The  precious  pair 
were  then  deported  to  the  Seychelle  Islands. 

Being  desirous  of  making  the  personal 
acquaintance  of  this  interesting  couple,  I  set 
out  one  day  to  visit  them  in  their  present  home. 
The  modest  little  house  which  is  the  joint 
residence  of  these  two  Kings  is  situated  about 
three  miles  out  of  the  town,  in  the  opposite 
direction  to  that  of  the  Ashantis.  On  arriving 
there  I  obtained  the  services  of  one  of  the 
policemen  on  guard  to  act  as  interpreter.  He 
conducted  me  round  to  the  back  of  the  house, 
where,  under  a 
small  shelter 
made  of  dried 
cocoa-nut  leaves, 
I  found  Kabba- 
regga reclining 
on  a  long  chair 
and  dressed  in 
a  large,  brightly 
coloured  cotton 
robe.  As  he 
rose  to  welcome 
nie  I  noticed 
that  he  w  a  s 
minus  his  right 
arm,  lost,  doubt- 
less, during  one 
of  his  many 
battles.  On  the 
ground  by  his 
side  was  Mrs. 
Kabbaregga,  an 

enormously  tall,  gaunt  woman,  who  slowly  rose 
and  solemnly  shook  hands. 

Kabbaregga  is  a  fine-looking  man,  with  a 
wonderfully  expressive  face.  He  has  large,  pro- 
truding eyes,  which  survey  you  with  a  keenness 
(juite  uncommon  in  the  negro.  His  tightly- 
closed  mouth  and  somewhat  receding  chin  give 
an  air  of  determination  as  well  as  a  sugges- 
tion of  cruelty  to  his  face.  \\'l)i!e  talking  to 
Kabbaregga  a  figure,  dressed  in  a  slovenly 
flannel  suit,  presented  itself.  This  turned  out 
to  be  Mwanga.  As  I  shook  him  by  his  flabby 
hand  I  could  hardly  believe  that  he  was  the 
son  and  successor  of  the  great  Mtcsa,  and 
one  who  had  held  the  power  of  life  and  death 
over  one  of  the  most  enlightened  peoples  of 
Central  Africa.  His  almost  cringing  manner 
and  dull,  stujjid  face  were  in  strong  contrast  to 
the  dignified  bearing  and  keen  expression  of  his 
fellow-captive. 


1  ME    HOLSE    INHABITED    BY   THE 

From 


As  I  now  had  them  both  together  I  suggested 
a  photogra[)h,  but  when  Kabbaregga  learnt 
what  was  required  of  him  he  flatly  refused  to 
be  either  photographed  or  sketched  in  the  cos- 
tume he  was  then  wearing  or  under  the  cocoa- 
nut  shelter.  The  whole  party  accordingly  left 
and  entered  the  house.  After  waiting  some 
time  and  hearing  distinct  sounds  of  quarrelling 
going  on  inside,  I  sent  the  policeman  to  inquire 
what  the  trouble  was.  On  his  return  he  told 
me  that  Mrs.  Kabbaregga  wished  to  be  photo- 
graphed, but  that  Mrs.  Mwanga  refused.  This 
had  caused  an  argument,  in  which  their  respec- 
tive lords  and  masters  joined.  The  result  was 
that  Mwanga  and  Kabbaregga  emerged  alone, 
dressed  in  well-fitting  serge  suits. 

As   all   attempts   to   induce  the  ladies  to  join 

the  party  proved 
fruitless,  I  pro- 
ceeded to  photo- 
graph  and 
sketch  the  two 
Kings  alone. 
During  this  pro- 
cess the  different 
characters  of  the 
two  men  were 
plainly  marked. 
Mwanga  spent 
his  time  in  put- 
ting himself  into 
attitudes,  and 
continually 
pulled  or  stroked 
his  coat  to  pre- 
\ent  any  possi- 
bility of  a  crease, 
whereas  Kab- 
baregga Av  a  s 
quite  at  his  ease  and  seemed  rather  amused  at 
the  whole  affair.  While  this  was  going  on  I 
noticed  Mrs.  Mwanga  stealthily  looking  llirough 
a  half- open  door,  feminine  curiosity  having 
evidently  overcome  her  natural  modesty.  After 
a  walk  round  the  house  and  a  glance  into  one 
of  the  small,  ill  -  furnished  rooms,  I  took 
leave  of  these  two  fallen  monarchs.  It 
seems  a  curious  irony  of  fate  that  these  two 
men,  who  had  spent  the  greater  part  of 
their  lives  in  a  state  of  continual  war  with 
one  another,  should  end  by  being  huddled 
up  together  in  the  same  small  house.  Why 
they  should  live  thus,  whilst  Prempeh,  whose 
record  is  certainly  blacker  than  Kabharegga'.s,  is 
kept  in  almost  Royal  state,  I  do  not  know. 
The  only  time  tiiese  captive  Kings  come 
together  is  in  church  on  Sunday,  which  they 
attend  regularly,  all  sitting  in  the  same  row. 
They  enjoy  at  all   times  the  greatest   liberty, 


EX-KINOS   OF    UNVORO   AND   UGANDA. 

a  Photo. 


THE    ISLAND    01"     CAPTIVE    KINGS. 


179 


From  a\ 


HE    KIN'GS   OF    UNVORO    AND    L'GANDA. 


|/';, 


and  may  often  be  seen  walking  about  the  town 
or  riding  in  jinrikshas  wholly  unattended. 
Perhaps  no  better  example  could  be  given  of 
the  considerate  way  in  which  they  are  treated 
by  the  authorities  than  the  following,  which  I 
witnessed  personally.     Durmg  the  Jcit-s  in  con- 


nection with  the  coronation  of  His  Majesty 
King  Edward  VIL,  the  Administrator  held  an 
official  levee  at  Mahe.  All  the  exiled  Kings 
and  some  twenty  Ashanti  chiefs  attended,  and 
their  names  were  duly  published  in  the  ofihcial 
gazette. 


THK    CAIMIVE    KOYALTIES   ALU   ATTENU   CHURCH    ON    SUNUAVS,    SITTI.NG    IN    THE   SA.ME    KOU. 


UhQ  March  of  "Cojcey's  Jirmy." 

By  Frederick  Moore. 

During  a  period  of  acute  commercial  depression  in  America  a  man  named  Coxey  conceived  the  idea  cf 
leading  a  huge  army  of  the  unemployed  across  the  country  to  the  Capitol  at  Washington,  and  there 
demanding  work.  The  scheme,  however,  did  not  appeal  to  genuine  working  men,  and  tramps  formed  the 
majority  of  those  who  flocked  to  "  General  "  Coxey's  standard.  In  spite  of  many  vicissitudes  the  "  army  " 
struggled  on  its  way,  only  to  be  finally  defeated  and  dispersed  when  it  reached  its  destination. 


THINK  this  story  will  demonstrate 
that  freedom  of  thought  and  speech 
and  action  exists  in  America  as  it 
does  nowhere  else  on  earth.  This 
maximum  of  liberty,  however,  is  not 
conducive  to  content ;  Anarchists  have  robbed 
the  United  States  of  more  rulers  in  the  same 
length  of  tim,^  than  the  most  despotic  oligarchy. 
As  in  all  countries  where  the  franchise  is  broad, 
unscrupulous  and  ambitious  would-be  leaders 
prey  on  the  ignorant  voter. 

If  there  are  no  issues  these  demagogues  make 
them,  or  try  to.  Of  recent  years  they  have  not 
succeeded  well,  but  the  era  of  depression  that 
prevailed  during  the  last  Cleve- 
land Administration  provided 
plenty.  Workmen  were  idle 
from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific 
and  wages  were  lower  than  they 
had  ever  been  before.  Con- 
gress was  spendmg  its  time 
dickering  with  the  tariffs,  pull- 
ing down  the  protective  duties 
of  the  Re[)ublican  Administra- 
tion it  had  defeated,  and  laying 
the  ports  open  to  free  foreign 
trade.  Capitalists  were  stand- 
ing idle,  fearing  to  invest,  or 
improve,  or  even  continue 
workm,^  until  the  Democrats 
had  settled  the  new  order  of 
things. 

The  moneyed  men  could 
live,  however,  while  the  work- 
ing men  could  not.  J.  S. 
Coxey,  a  populist,  a  theoso- 
phist,  and  a  man  of  some  means,  grew  rampant 
in  his  tirades  against  this  state  of  affairs.  He 
listened  to  himself  so  earnestly  and  so  often 
that  he  came  to  believe  he  had  been  s[)e(ially 
chosen  for  the  deliverance  of  his  suffering  fellow- 
men,  though  his  original  idea  was,  no  doubt, 
that  he  v/ould  win  a  seat  in  Congress.  He  con- 
ceived a  great  idea  one  morning,  and  acted 
upon  it  instantly.  He  issued  a  proclamation 
calling  for  an  army  of  one  hundred  thousand 
of  the  unemployed  to  march  to  the  capital 
and  demand  employment ! 

"  Now,  hurry  up  !  the  time  is  short,"  ran  one 
paragraph  of  this  extraordinary  document,  "and 
althougli  the  roads  will  be  horrible,  renu-mber 
the  condition  of  the  soldiers  under  Washington 


GENEKAL       COXEY 


in  the  snow  at  Valley  Forge,  struggling  to  win 
this  fair  land  from  an  English  tax  on  tea,  and 
we,  the  degenerate  sons  of  illustrious  sires, 
have  allowed  English  bondholders  to  get  us 
more  tightly  in  their  grasp  than  George  HI. 
had  our  forefathers."  (There  was  a  kind  of  an 
English  invasion  of  America  at*  the  time  in  the 
purchase  of  an  issue  of  United  States  bonds.) 
•'Rouse  up!"  the  manifesto  continued,  "and 
demand  Congress  to  issue  paper  money  based 
upon  our  own  security.  If  paper  money  could 
fight  battles  and  kill  men  in  '6i,  it  can  build 
good  roads  and  streets  and  public  buildmgs 
and  thus  save  men  from  starving  to  death  in 
1894.  Rise,  ye  bondmen,  and 
protest  against  the  yoke  at 
least!  —  (Signed)  Carle 
Browne,  Secretary." 

But  the  working  men  of 
America  are  either  not  of  an 
adventurous  disposition  or  not 
fools  ;  they  declined  to  "  rouse 
up."  The  only  people  who  ral- 
lied around  this  self-appointed 
leader  were  "  hobos  "  —  the 
recipe  for  which  America  holds 
a  jealous  secret.  Weary  Willie, 
Meandering  Mike,  Wandering 
Watts,  Tired  Timothy,  Thirsty 
Thadius,  Dusty  Rhodes,  the 
whole  "Who's  Who"  of  tramp- 
dom  got  the  word  and  rolled 
in  from  the  country  round 
about  to  Missillion,  the  home 
of  the  new  "  General."  "  (Gen- 
eral "  Coxey  maintained  the 
early  arrivals  until  I^aster,  the  day  appointed  for 
the  start  of  the  great  "  march  on  \Vashington." 
P'rom  forty  to  live  hundred  set  out  that  sorry 
Eastertide,  according  tothe"war  corres[)ondents" 
accredited  to  the  "  army"  by  different  newspapers. 
From  what  I  know  of  the  American  tram[)  I 
believe  the  man  who  reported  forty,  for  a  blizzard 
was  blowing  that  Sunday  morning.  'I'hey  marched 
through  Ohio  where  they  were  the  butt  of 
ridicule  in  every  town  through  which  they 
passed — in  rain  and  sleet  and  along  almost 
impas.sable  roads.  Like  the  hosts  of  Napoleon, 
the  elem.cnts  thinned  their  numbers  more  than 
bullets.  Steadily  they  dropped  by  the  wayside, 
finding  snug  lodgings  in  the  haylofts  of  unlucky 
farmers,  or  catching  ireight  trains  going   south. 


THE    MARCH    OF    "COXEY'S    ARMY." 


i8i 


The  mountain  men  of  tlie  Middle  West  are  a 
liard  set,  with  no  mercy  on  tramps,  and  at  tiie 
hands  of  these,  up  in  the  high  altitudes  where 
they  were  nearly  frozen,  the  "army"  met  the 
only  stout  o[)position  it  encountered  until  it  was 
finally  re[)ulsc(.l  from  the  terrace  of  the  Capitol. 
'I'he  onslaught  of  the  stalwart  mountaineers,  with 
birch-sticks  fresh  stripped  from  the  leafless  trees, 
was  too  terrible  for  the  unacclimatized  volunteers 
to  resist,  and  they  vanished  like  chaff  before  the 
wind. 

The  "army"  proceeded  to  tlie  lowlands  on 


they  passed — literally  "  living  on  the  country." 
As  long  as  it  was  small  the  town  marshals,  who 
met  the  "army"  a  few  miles  out  of  their 
respective  villages,  dictated  terms.  They  un- 
ceremoniously locked  it  up  for  the  night  in 
baseball  parks  and  racecourses  on  the  out- 
skirts, and  then  hustled  it  on  its  way  to  fare 
better  or  worse  at  the  next  town.  Ihere  were 
generally  enough  kind-hearted  old  women  in 
each  city,  town,  or  hamlet  to  supply  the  miscel- 
laneous horde  with  food.  If  there  were  not, 
they  did  not  ask  a  pass  for  an  evening  out  from 


"tHEV    VANISIIF.I)    I. IKE   ClIAFK    HErOUE    THE    WIND." 


the  east  practically  denuded  of  its  "rank  and 
file,"  but  there  the  fugitives  rallied  to  the  old 
standard  and  fresh  "  recruits  "  enlisted  in  scores, 
till  the  correspondent  who  gave  the  higher  figure 
I  have  mentioned  could  prove  his  statement. 
Throughout  its  pilgrimage  the  strength  of  the 
"army"depended  entirely  on  the  "grub"  available. 
"  (General  "  Coxey  had  footed  the  bills  at  the 
start,  and  he  sup[)lied  the  ecjuipment  for  the 
journey — the  second-hand  circus  tent,  the  pro- 
perty and  mess  waggons,  and  the  horses,  draught 
animals,  and  "  officers' "  mounts.  But  the 
appetite  of  his  "  army  "  would  have  exhausted 
his  coffers  in  short  order.  'I'he  men  depended 
for  their  subsistence  on  the  land  through  which 


the  "  executive  officer,"  "  ^^arshal  "  Browne, 
but  deserted  and  went  "grubbing"  for  them- 
selves ;  and  the  roll-call  was  small  next  morning. 
On  the  Atlantic  slope  the  spring  sun  was 
waking  the  "hobos,"  who  had  lain  dormant  all 
the  winter.  This  novel  idea  of  travelling  in 
force  appealed  to  them.  'I'he  "war  corre- 
spondents" had  to  earn  their  salaries,  and  with 
such  Press  agents  the  enterprise  could  not  but 
"draw."  Coxey  began  charging  admission  to 
the  night  l)ivouac  and  passing  the  hat  on 
parade.  This  proved  so  successful  that  soon  the 
"army"  was  stiong  enough  to  dictate  terms  to  the 
marshals  and  demand  sustenance  in  return  for 
abstaining  from  foraging  in  their  neighbourhood. 


l82 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


The  whole  country  was  now  aroused  and 
everywhere  the  tramps  mobiHzed  to  rein- 
force Coxey.  On  one  or  two  railroads  in  the 
West  the  crews  of  the  freight  trains  had 
standing  orders  to  carry  all  individual  tramps 
who  applied  for  transportation  anywhere  along 
the  line,  for  it  was  long  ago  found  to  be  cheaper 
to  do  this  than  have  them,  in  revenge  for 
summary  ejection,  setting  fire  to  unguarded 
property  along  the  road.  Owing  to  this  same 
fear,  and  in  order  to  allay  the  apprehension  of 
the  inhabitants  of  the  small  towns  along  the 
railroads,  the  "regiments"  of  Coxey's  "army" 
were  very  often  given,  on  application,  passage  to 
the  end  of  the  line  infested.  The  strongest 
brigade  outside  of  the  main  "army,"  five  hundred 
and  seven  in  number,  put  in  a  formal 
request  for  transportation  over  a  division 
of  the  Union  Pacific.  The  company  ignored 
the  application,  whereupon  the  tramps  held  up 
a  freight  train,  kicked  the  crew  off,  manned  it 
themselves,  and  started  east.  The  news  was 
telegraphed  along  the  line,  and  to  avoid  an  acci- 
dent every  other  train  was  side-tracked,  and  the 
"hobo  special"  had  a  clear  line  until  its  fuel 
gave  out.  Waiting  at  a  little  station  where  it 
was  calculated  it  would  stop  for  coal  and  water 
was  a  regiment  of  Uncle  Sam's  regulars.  When 
the  train  pulled 
in  there  was  a 
jump  and  run  for 
freedom.  But  the 
cordon  was  sub- 
stantial, and  four 
hundred  and 
thirty-five  of  the 
gang  were  cap- 
lured. 

Coxey  himself 
was  more  astute 
than  to  break  the 
law.  The  name 
he  chose  for  his 
men,  "Common- 
w'ealers,"  largely 
protected  them 
from  t  h  e  Va  - 
grancy  Acts  of 
the  U.S.  He 
was  bent  on  get- 
ling  to  A\'ashing- 
ton  on  the  day  he 
had  promised  to 
be  there — May  i 
— and  leading  liis 
vagabonds  up  the 
Capitol  steps;  or, 
thwarted,  to  go 
down   in   history 


a  martyred  man.  But  he  did  not  march  all  the 
way.  W^hen  he  reached  the  Potomac  River  he  was 
two  days  late  in  his  schedule.  Two  leaky  old 
canal  boats  lying  idle  at  Cumberland,  the  famous 
Civil  War  battlefield,  offered  a  means  of  recover- 
ing lost  time.  The  owner,  a  typical  canal  man, 
agreed  to  transform  the  old  scows  into  tran- 
sports and  tow  the  "  army  "  a  hundred  miles 
towards  Washington  for  a  dollar  per  head. 

"  Six  hundred  dollars  ! "  exclaimed  Coxey 
and  staff,  especially  Coxey,  for  it  was  to  come 
out  of  his  pocket.  "  Too  much.  Can't  you 
make  us  a  cheaper  rate  than  that  ?  We'll  give 
you  fifty  dollars." 

"  It's  agin  the  law,"  said  the  man.  Then  he 
thought  a  moment.  "Now,  sar,  I'll  tell  you 
what  I'll  do,"  he  said,  finally.  "  You  have  the 
whole  lot  weighed  on  them  there  coal  scales 
yonder  and  bill  'em  as  freight,  and  I'll  take  the 
whole  cargo  at  fifty-two  cents  per  ton." 

With  this  curious  offer  Coxey  closed,  and 
waggons,  tents,  mess  paraphernalia  of  all  kinds, 
"hobos,"  horses,  and  other  living  creatures  all 
tipped  the  scales.  One  hundred  and  sixty-four 
tons  was  the  total  weight  of  the  "  army "  and 
its  stores,  and  eighty-five  dollars  and  twenty- 
eight  cents  were  duly  paid  over. 

P>arly  next  morning  camp  was  stru;-!'.     The 


I  I.I.   TAKK   TIIK    \VI 


■f      -J      _' 

lOl.K   CAHl.O    AT    KIKTV-TUO    Ul.M.S    IliU    TON. 


Tin:     MART  1 1     OI-     '•'('OXKV'S     ARMN'.- 


183 


"  Commonwealers  "'  filed  aboard  l)ct\vccii  lines 
of  spectators  wlio  iiululLjctl  in  a  good  deal  of 
good-natured  chaff,  finally  giving  three  cheers 
fur  Coxey's  "  navy. " 

All  along  the  line  the  inhabitants  turned  out 
and  cheered  the  '"sailors."  The  "sailors'' 
cheered  back,  and  the  "band"  —  the  only 
instruments  of  which  found  recorded  in  a 
civilized  dictionary  are  a  bagpipe  and  a  big  drum 
— played  merrily.  The  "  Commonwealers  "  were 
in  excellent  spirits,  for  a  good  dinner  was  in 
prospect  —  the  blackmail  extorted  from  the 
citizens  of  Cumberland  by  a  threat  of  entering 
the  town. 

Presently  they  were  in  sight 
of  the  Chesapeake  and  Ohio 
Railway,  which  follows  the 
Potomac  canal  for  miles.  Every 
train  that  passed  whistled  a 
salute,  and  the  passengers 
waved  their  handkerchiefs. 
Coxey  declared  that  the  inter- 
est taken  in  the  "army"  was 
another  example  of  ^Maryland 
hospitality,  and  the  men  cheered 
back  and  waved  their  blankets. 
At  Round  To[)  Mountain, 
where  the  hillside  is  honey- 
combed with  cement  quarries, 
the  quarrymen  knocked  off 
work  when  the  news — which 
was  being  shouted  along  the 
banks — arrived.  They  were  sit- 
ting with  their  legs  hanging  over 
the  white  cliffs  when  the  licet  hove  in  sight. 
They  demanded  a  speech,  and  the  ever-ready 
executive  ofiicer  rendered  a  harangue  at  the  top 
of  his  voice,  explaining  that  Congress  could 
print  money  just  as  it  printed  agricultural 
reports,  and  they  were  going  to  make  Congress 
do  it  and  give  work  to  all  idle  men.  On  con- 
clusion the  bagpiper  rendered  "Columbia,  'tis  of 
Thee,  Sweet  Land  of  Libertee,"  with  original 
variations. 

The  "navy"  was  broken  up -at  \\'illiamsi)ort, 
and  the  "Commonwealers"'  reverted  to  a 
land  force  and  marched  on  to  Hagerstown, 
where  it  had  I'orepaugh's  four  ring  circus  as  a 
ri\al  attraction.  It  put  the  circus  out  of  business 
while  it  stayed  in  the  vicinity. 

The  march  from  Hagerstown  to  Washington 
was  made  in  good  time,  the  "army"  being 
spurred  by  the  inspiring  [)roximity  of  its  desti- 
nation. On  the  28th  of  April  it  was  met  by  the 
Washington  cyclists,  who  had  taken  a  day  off 
from  their  res|)ective  duties  and  ridden  out  to 
meet  this  band  of  pilgrims,  of  which  they  had 
heard  so  much  during  the  past  five  weeks.  On 
the  29111,  early  in   the   nu)rning,  the  vanguard  of 


MARSHAL       CAKLE     BROWNE,    "GENERAL 
coxey's   EXECUTIVE   OFFICER. 


the  "  army "  met  the  most  advanced  of  the 
spectators,  who  had  ventured  out  upon  their 
route  of  march  to  get  a  glimpse  of  the  "Com- 
monwealers." The  curious  onlookers  fell  in 
behind  and  beside  and  before  the  "  army  "  and 
marched  with  it.  Thicker  and  thicker  the 
assemblage  got  as  the  day  advanced.  Afoot, 
on  horseback,  in  every  imaginable  kind  of 
vehicle,  by  train  and  trolley,  every  grade  of 
Washington  society  had  come  out  of  the  town 
to  meet  the  much-heralded  hosts  of  Coxey.  A 
detachment  of  mounted  and  one  of  foot  police.' 
met  the  "  Commonwealers"  at  the  district  line 
and  cleared  the  road  for  them 
to  the  park  allotted  as  a  camp- 
ing-ground. 

A  happy  thought  struck  one 
of  the  "(Jeneral's"'  staff  at  the 
sight  of  the  fight  the  spectators 
made  to  get  into  Brightwood 
Park.  He  imparted  it  to  the 
commander,  and  at  his  re- 
quest the  police  cleared  the 
place  of  outsiders.  Coxey  ap- 
pointed two  good,  reliable 
gate  -  keepers  — one  to  watch 
the  other  —  and  collected 
admission  fees  to  the  race- 
course. They  took  over  seven 
hundred  dollars  in  nickels  and 
dimes  and  quarters,  accepting 
whatever  they  could  get.  By 
the  time  the  tents  were  pitched 
the  grand  stand  was  filled  with 
spectators  ;  they  covered  the  paddock  and  the 
course  and  the  whole  field. 

"  Joe-Joe,  the  Dog-faced  Boy,"  "  The  I'en- 
Thousand  Dollar  Beautv,"  "The  Snake-Plater," 
"Phe  Fat  Lady,"  "'Phe  Wild  AL\n  from  Borneo," 
"The  South  African  Ciant,"  and  other  country 
circus  signs  and  panoramas  hung  over  res[)ective 
exhibits  where  the  tramps  had  taken  up  their 
([uarters.  'Phe  most  appro[)riate^anyway,  the 
one  that  took  most  effect  upon  the"  lookers-on — 
was  a  sign  that  had  hung  over  the  cage  of  a 
"Cila  monster,' or  something  of  that  kind.  'Phe 
trani[)  who  sat  under  it  could  not  read,  but 
wondered  why  the  peo{)le  did  not  crowd  about 
him  as  they  did  the  others.  'Phe  announcement 
read,  in  bold  black  letters,  "  Beware  !  it  is  alive  !  " 
Coxey  wanted  to  do  everything  "perfectly 
legal."  He  went  down  to  police  head-quarters 
and  procured  an  order  to  parade  his  men  through 
the  streets  of  the  city  on  J\Lay  ist.  'Phen  he 
re[)aired  to  the  Capitol  and  rec]uested  of 
the  serjeant-at-arms  a  permit  to  address  "  the 
American  people  and  the  Congress  of  the 
United  States  "  from  the  great  white  terrace  — 
which    he    did    not    procure.      He   would  do  it 


1 84 


THE    WIDE    WORLD     AL\GAZINE. 


anyway,  he  announced,  and  the  newspapers 
advertised  his  threat.  On  the  morning  appointed 
the  trains  coming  in  from  the  neighbouring 
countryside  were  filled  to  overflowing,  and  by  the 
time  scheduled  for  the  march  to  begin  the  route 
of  parade  was  blocked  with  people  and  the 
vast  grounds  around  the  Capitol  were  hiddei  by 
humanity. 

The  leaders' 
families  had  come 
to  Washington  by 
rail  and  joined  the 
parade,  together 
with  a  Philadelphia 
"  regiment "  that 
had  formed  a  junc- 
tion with  Co.xey's 
"army"  just  be- 
fore the  city  was 
stormed. 

A  break fiist  of 
beans,  beef,  and 
bread  was  dished 
out  promptly  at 
eight  o'clock.  Be- 
fore the  order  of 
march  was  formed 
"Executive 
Officer "  Browne 
gave  the  men  a 
last  word  before 
the  battle.  "  Carry 
peace  ! "  he  shout- 
ed, in  that  gruff 
voice  he  had  used 
so  effectively  in 
selling  a  patent 
medicine  (his  pre- 
vious occupation). 
"  Shoulder  peace, 
and      with      your 

white  flags  pointing  towards  High  Heaven  peace 
will  be  more  forcible  than  all  the  guns  and 
cannon  this  Republic  can  muster!" 

The  injunction  was  hardly  meant — it  was  a 
shield  from  arrest  on  the  eve  of  accomplishing 
their  threat.  Even  had  Browne  not  cautioned 
his  men  the  result  would  have  been  the  same, 
for  there  is  no  fight  m  the  American  "  hobo." 

Sharj)  at  ten  o'clock  the  procession  started. 
It  was  headed  by  four  mounted  police.  Behind 
them  rode  "  Chief  Marshal "  Browne  on 
Courrier,  a  magnificent  white  Percheron  steed 
belonging  to  Coxey,  a  huge  animal  with  long 
white  flowing  mane  and  shaggy  fetlocks. 
Browne  wms  not  outclassed  by  the  horse,  to  do 
him  justice.  He  was  a  powerful  six-footer,  with 
strong  features  and  a  piercing  eye — a  Buffalo 
Bill   type.     His  outfit   had  seen  much  service, 


THE   TliAMI'   VVONDliREO    WHY   THF,    I'liOlXE    DIU    NOT   CROWD    ABOUT    HIM 


I)ut  that  made  him  appear  all  the  more 
a  real  iiero  of  the  frontier.  He  wore  a 
leather  coat,  the  many  holes  in  which  he 
accounted  fur  in  brushes  with  the  Indians, 
when  their  bullets  found  the  space  between 
his  charmed  hide  and  the  leather  jacket. 
A  moth-eaten  sealskin  mantle  was  draped 
artistically  over  the  pommel  of  his  saddle,  a  great 
white  sombrero  was  slanted  rakishly  down  over 
his  right  eye,  and  in  his  high  riding-boots  was 
stuck  a  stave  on  which  was  tacked  one  of  the 

peace  banners.  All  the 
men  were  armed  with 
these,  ostensibly  an  em- 
blem of  labour,  but  really 
intended  for  the  fray. 

The  truce  flags 
had  been  fur- 
nished by  a  sharp 
advertiser  and 
originally  bore  his 
name  and  address 
along  the  bottom  ; 
butthe"Wealers" 
were  sharper  than 
the  tradesman  — 
they  tore  off  the 
advertisement. 

Riding  behind 
Browne  a  n  d 
mounted  on  a 
clean-limbed  white 
Arabian  came  Miss 
Coxey,  a  pretty, 
slender  girl  in  a 
long,  cream-white 
riding  habit.  Her 
glossy  auburn  hair 
flowed  from  under 
a  regulation  Coxey 
cap  of  red,  white, 
and  blue.  She  sat  her  prancing  horse  well,  and 
bowed  and  blushed  as  the  crowd  cheered  her 
by  name. 

Her  brother,  in  a  mixed  dress  com]:)osed  of 
the  Confederate  and  Union  uniforms,  rode  a 
fine  brown  animal,  and  with  "Oklahoma  Sam," 
a  scraggy  cow-puncher  on  an  ecpially  scraggy 
cow  pony,  acted  as  courier-general,  riding  back 
and  forth  along  the  line  giving  orders  and  carry- 
ing messages  from  his  father  to  the  "  marshals  " 
on  foot,  and  giving  the  news  to  the  "  war  corre- 
s[)ondents  "  who  still  followed  the  "army." 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  Coxey  and  their  infant  son, 
"  Legal  Tender,"  rode  in  an  open  buggy. 
Then  came  the  "  band  "  and  then  the  privates, 
('hristopher  Columbus  Jones,  "colonel  "  of  the 
Philadelphia  "regiment,"  rode  at  the  head  of 
his  tlelachment  in  a  hired  hansom. 


TlIK    MARCH    OF    "COXEY'S    ARMY." 


185 


lASSING   DOWN    THE    NATIONS    I'ROUDEST   THOROUGHFARE 


proudest 
for  a  ten 


Passincr  down  the  nation's 
thoroughfare,  tlie  "army",  halted 
minutes'  rest  in  front  of  the  White  House.  Again 
it  halted  in  front  of  the  hotel  at  which  Mrs. 
Coxcy  and  her  children  were  stopping,  and  Mrs. 
Coxey,  no  doubt  contemplating  trouble,  handed 
her  small  boy  over  to  the  hotel  clerk  to  care  for. 
The  crowd  of  curiosily-seekers  tried  to  climb  into 
the  carriage  with  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Coxey  and  tear 
off  pieces  of  their  clothes  for  souvenirs.  The 
"  General  "  sent  a  courier  back  to  the  "  war 
correspondents  "  with  the  request  that  they  would 
form  a  cordon  around  the  conuiiander's  car- 
riage such  as  the  secret  service  men  do  about  the 
President's.  They  did  so,  and  conducted  him 
safe  to  the  west  front  of  the  Capitol. 

There  Coxey  abandoned  his  rule  of  observing 
the  Liw.     His   permit   to   parade   read    that   he 

Vol.  xi.— 24. 


should  wind  round  the 
north  side  of  the  building ; 
he  swung  off  to  the  south. 
There  was  a  wild  rush  of 
police  —  who  were  in 
strong  force  on  the  north 
side — through  the  crowd 
to  the  south  grounds.  But 
their  road  was  blocked  by 
the  vastness  of  the  crowd, 
and  Coxey's  "army"  got 
there  first.  One  mounted 
officer,  who  was  posted  on 
the  south,  tried  to  halt 
them.  "  Stop  and  dis- 
band !  "  he  shouted,  but 
the  "army"  pushed  on 
until  Browne  wheeled  his 
white  horse  and  in  sten- 
torian tones  commanded 
"  Attention  !  Common- 
weal, halt ! " 

This  was  where  Browne 
and  Coxey  had  secretly 
arranged  to  make  their 
attempt  on  the  Capitol. 
Browne  slipped  from  liis 
horse,  handed  the  reins  lo 
one  of  the  men,  and 
threaded  his  way  back  to 
Coxey's  buggy.  The  men 
leaned  together  and  whis- 
pered. "  All  right,"  said 
Coxey  in  conclusion,  loud 
enough  to  be  heard.  He 
turned  to  his  wife  and 
kissed  her,  then  stepped 
out  of  the  carriage.  Chris- 
topher Columbus  Jones 
came  up  and  the  three 
started  on  a  run  for  the 
Capitol  steps.  Browne 
and  Jones  jumped  the 
low  coping  that  encloses  the  Capitol  grounds 
and  made  a  dash  through  the  flower-beds,  but 
Coxey  kept  to  the  walks.  The  crowd,  looking 
u[)on  the  affiair  as  a  grand  lark,  opened  up  for  the 
men  to  pass  through  and  rushed  behind  in  their 
wake.  The  policemen  were  pushed  off  their 
feet,  and  even  the  dismayed  Coxeyites  were 
tossed  and  tumbled  about  like  pillows  in  a 
college  rampage.  Pandemonium  reigned  for 
fifteen  minutes.  At  last  the  mounted  police 
made  a  charge  to  clear  the  way.  Then  occurred 
a  scene  never  before  witnessed  about  the  big 
building.  Men,  women,  and  children  rushed 
for  the  side-walks,  falling  over  and  trampling 
one  another  down  in  their  attempts  to  reach  a 
place  of  safety.      Finally  the  way  was  cleared  of 


i86 


THE   WIDE   WORLD   MAGAZINE. 


all  except  the  Coxeyites,  who,  in  their  rags  and 
tatters,  presented  a  comical  and  deplorable 
sight. 

Meanwhile  the  leaders  had  made  their  way 
successfully  across  the  grounds  almost  to  the 
grand  central  staircase.  A  mounted  officer 
galloped  over  the  grounds,  jumping  bushes  and 
taking  the  side-walks  recklessly,  to  where 
Browne  was   forging    his  way  on.     He    reined 


From  a]      the  cAriioi,  at  WAsmxtiTON,  to  which  coxey  leu  his  akmy  oi'    i  uA.^U's.       [P/ioto. 

up  in  front  of  the  "  Chief  Marshal  "  and  shouted, 
"  You  can't  pass." 

"  \Vhy  can't  I  pass  ?  "  Browne  roared  back, 
defiantly. 

'i'he  officer  did  not  reply,  but  reached  for 
Browne's  collar  and  gripped  it  like  a  bulldog. 
Browne  fought  like  a  tiger  until  he  was  over- 
powered by  numbers,  pitchc:d  into  a  police 
patrol  waggon,  and  hustled  off  to  prison. 

Christopher  Columbus  Jones,  who  had  stuck 
close  to  Browne,  vvas  arrested  and  carted  away 
in  a  like  manner.  But  Coxey  was  more  for- 
tunate. He  reached  the  Rotunda  steps.  The 
crowd  opened  a  way  for  him.  He  ran  lightly 
up  until  he  was  halted  by  a  house-officer  about 
half-way  to  the  top. 

"  Do  you  represent  the  serjeant-at-arms  ? " 
asked  Coxey. 

"  I  do.     What  do  you  want  ?  "  was  the  reply. 

"  I  wish  to  make  an  address  to  llie  American 
people." 

"  Well,  you  can't  make  it  here.'" 


"  Then    I    want   to    enter   a    protest   against 
this  perversion   of  the   Constitution,"    said    the 
"Ceneral,"  and    he    held    out  a   folded    paper. 
"  May  I  read  the  protest  ?  "  he  mquired. 
"Not  here." 

"Then  you  will  receive  it?" 
"Not  I." 

Coxey  hesitated  and  looked  round.  Spying 
one  of  the   "  war  correspondents,"   he    handed 

him  the  paper.  Then 
the  "  Commonweal  " 
leader  turned  to  cast 
a  look  over  the 
scene. 

The    great  opening 
of   the    portico,  filled 
with    hundreds     of 
spectators,    gaped    be- 
hind him.      Towering 
above    him     on    one 
hand    was    the    great 
statue    of     Columbus 
with  the  globe  in  his 
outstretched  hand, 
and  on  the  other  the 
group  of    the  settler's 
family   struggling  with 
the    Indians,       Below 
him  stretched  the  sea 
of   upturned   faces, 
thousands     of     them. 
No    President    had 
ever    had     a     greater 
audience.       But    it 
was   useless ;    he    had 
marched  his  "army"  six  hundred  miles  for  this 
opportunity,  and  now  it  had  been  snatched  from 
his  grasp.     Two  policemen  put  their  hands  on 
his  shoulders,  and  bowing  his  head  he  walked 
slowly  down    between    them.       At    the   foot  of 
the  steps  a  cordon  of  mounted  officers  formed 
about    him.      But    he   was    not   even    to   win 
arrest.       They    conducted     him     through    the 
now    hushed    crowd     to    the     buggy    in    which 
he  had  come,    to   his    wife   and  daughter   and 
the  "  Commonwealers,"  who   made   no  attempt 
to  support   their   leader  or  even  to  rescue  him 
from  his  captors. 

In  contempt  Browne  and  Jones  were  similarly 
released  that  night. 

Coxey  led  his  beaten  "army  "  back  to  camp. 
He  stayed  with  it  a  fortnight  or  more,  until  it 
dwindled  gradually  away  by  desertions.  'I'he 
other  bands  which  had  been  formed  all  over  the 
country  fell  apart  at  the  news  of  their  "  Cleneral's  " 
defeat  ;  and  the  great  march  of  Coxey's  "army  " 
came  to  an  inglorious  end. 


Sport  and  Adventure  in  Gallaland. 

li\  A.  Akkell-Uakuwick,   !•'. R.G.S. 
I.    ' 

The  narrative  of  a  most  eventful  journey  from  Kikuyu,  in   British  East  Africa,  to  Gallaland,  vid  Mount 

Kenia.     Much  of  the  country  traversed  is  very  little  known,  and  Mr.  Hardwick's  party  suffered  much  from 

the  difficulties  of  the  route,  want  of  food  when  game  was  scarce,  and  the  attacks  of  hostile  natives. 


HIS  account  of  an  expedition  into 
the  little-known  country  which  lies 
between  Lake  Rudolph  and  the  East 
African  sea-coast  will,  I  hope,  give 
the  readers  of  The  Widk  World 
Magazine  some  idea  of  the  perils  and  inconve- 
niences which  are  at  present  inseparable  from 
African  travel  away  from  the  beaten  track.  Wild 
beasts  and  wilder  natives  conspire  to  give  the 
adventurous  traveller  a  bad  time,  and  these, 
together  with  difficult  country,  such  as  thorn 
forests  and  waterless  desert  tracts,  test  one's 
patience  and  powers  of  endurance  to  the  utter- 
most. 

A  description  of  the  journey  from  Mombasa 
to  Nairobi,  the  capital  of  British 
East  Africa,  would  be  out  of 
place  here,  as  it  has  been  pre- 
viously described  elsewhere. 
Suffice  it  to  say  that  our  party 
of  three  white  men,  with  forty 
native  carriers  and  six  pack 
donkeys  —  who  between  them 
bore  everything  we  possessed 
in  the  way  of  tents,  provisions, 
ammunition,  and  trade  goods — 
left  Nairobi  in  the  early  part 
of  1900  bound  for  the  little- 
known  Waso  Nyiro  River,  via 
Mount  Kenia  and  the  River 
Tana. 

The  native  carriers  were  re- 
cruited from  several  different 
tribes  and  included  Swahilis, 
or  coast  natives,  Wa'kamba 
from  the  province  of  Ukam- 
bani,  A'kikuyu,  or  natives  of 
Kikuyuland,  and  Wa'nyamwezi 
from  Unyamwezi,  to  the  south 
and  east  of  Lake  Victoria 
Nyanza.  Each  man  carries  a 
load  of  ap[)roxiniately  sixty 
pounds  weigiit,  and  will  march 
on  an  average  from  ten  to  fifteen 
miles  a  day  for  weeks  at  a  time. 
On  the  first  few  days  after  start- 
ing there  is  generally  q  little 
trouble,  as  the  men  are  fresh 
from  the  delights  and  debau- 
cheries of  the  native  bazaar, 
and,  iiaving  consequently  grown 
very  "  soft  "   in  condition,   they 


1  IIK   AUTHOR.    MR. 
IM     IMS   AKH 


Front  a  I'hoto.  by  Frost,  Musivell  H ill. 


do  not  take  kindly  to  work  again.  The 
attempts  at  desertions  are  difficult  to  cope 
with,  and  in  s[)ite  of  the  most  watchful  precau- 
tions are  frequently  successful. 

After  leaving  Nairobi  we  made  direct  for 
Doenyo  Sabuk,  a  bold,  rounded  hill  whose 
summit  towers  some  eight  hundred  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  surrounding  plain  and  six 
thousand  feet  above  the  sea  level.  My  first 
argument  with  a  rhinoceros  occurred  while  cross- 
ing these  plains.  I  was  utterly  unprepared 
for  the  encounter,  and  only  escaped  injury 
by  the  most  extraordinary  good  luck.  The 
caravan  passed  the  animal  lying  asleep  on  the 
open  {/lain  about  three  hundred  yards  to  the 
left,  and  unfortunately  down 
wind.  About  two-thirds  of  the 
caravan  had  passed  unnoticed 
when  the  great  beast  scented 
us  and  woke  up.  From  my 
place  near  the  head  of  the 
caravan  I  heard  a  sudden  shout 
of  alarm,  and,  turning  round, 
a  most  disconcerting  sight  met 
my  gaze.  The  rhino  had 
charged  the  rear  of  the  caravan, 
and  the  men,  first  dropping 
their  loads,  were  scattered  all 
over  the  plain,  frying  with 
terror-stricken  feet  they  knew 
ujA  not  whither.     The  huge  beast, 

remarkably  like  an  overgrown 
pig  in  appearance,  was  stamp- 
ing about  among  the  deserted 
loads  in  a  state  of  great  in- 
dignation, his  comical  little  tail 
sticking  straight  up  in  the  air, 
while  he  proceeded  to  blow 
and  snort  with  great  energy 
and  ill-will.  Far  away  over  the 
l)lain  a  few  black  dots  indi- 
cated where  the  men,  having 
reached  what  they  considered 
a  safe  distance,  had  seated 
themselves.  There  they  waited 
with  stolid  indifference  until 
it  should  please  the  "  bwana " 
(master)  to  slay  their  assailant, 
so  that  their  interrupted  journey 
could  be  resumed. 

My  servant  had  fied  with  the 
others  and  taken  with  him  my 


A.    ARKKI.I  -IIANUU  Ids'. 
ICAN    COSTLMK. 


i88 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


cartridge-bag  containing  my  s[)arc  animuniliun. 
I  was  carrying  a  '303  sporting  rifle,  and  as  it 
happened  there  were  six  cartridges  in  the 
magazine,  but,  unfortunately,  they  were  soft- 
nosed  bullets  and  only  intended  for  soft-skinned 
game.  However,  as  there  was  nothing  else  for 
it,  I  determined  to  do  the  best  I  could  with  the 
inadequate  means  at  my  disposal. 

Cautiously  approaching  to  within  fifty  yards 
of  the  angry  beast  I  gave  him  a  bullet  behind 
the  shoulder,  but  did  not  succeed  in  disabling 
him.  Round  he  came  like  an  angry  cat  and 
charged  me,  head  down  and  ears  and  tail  erect. 
There  was  absolutely  no  cover,  so  I  ran  about 
twenty  yards  and  then  turned  sharply  to  the 
right,  hoping  he  would  pass  me  ;  but  the  beast 
had  fairly  got  my  wind  and  meant  business. 
I'he  only  safe  course  now  was  to  try  and  stop 
him  with  the  rifle — so,  kneeling  down,  I  worked 


are  that  my  wanderings  wuuld  have  ended  there 
and  then.  One  gets  used  to  such  risks,  how- 
ever, on  the  veldt,  and  they  are  eventually 
regarded  as  part  of  the  necessary  routine  of  the 
march,  inconvenient  perhaps,  but  unavoidable. 

Four  days'  marching  across  the  Athi  plains 
brought  us  to  the  Athi  River,  a  broad  and  noble 
stream  which  winds  round  the  north  end  of 
Doenyo  Sabuk  and  thence  flows  south-east  until 
it  joins  the  Tsavo,  the  combined  rivers  forming 
the  Sabaki,  which  flows  into  the  sea  at  Melindi. 
These  plains  are  infested  with  a  particularly 
malevolent  ti;-k,  a  flat,  red  insect  which  bites 
most  ferociously.  They  crawl  in  the  grass  in 
countless  millions,  and  during  the  march  we 
had  frequently  to  halt  and  get  our  servants  to 
brush  the  vermin  from  our  persons  and  clothing. 
On  our  arrival  in  camp  the  first  thing  to  be  done 
always  was  to  strip  and  hunt  over  our  clothes 


^Sri 


r^"  «r(i 


r  X- 


■.  V.' 

'1       .' 

A^ 

y^^ 

/ 

.  iW^ 

%,  ■.  ■ 

KNEKI.ING    DOWN,    I    WOUKED    MV   MAGAZINE    AS    RAI'IDLY   AS    POSSIRLE. 


my  magazine  as  rapidly  as  possible,  taking  care, 
however,  to  aim  carefully.  In  less  than  ten 
seconds  I  put  four  bullets  into  the  brute, 
hitting  him  every  time,  as  I  could  see  the 
dust  spurt  from  his  hide  in  little  puffs 
wherever  he  was  struck.  Fortunately  the  fourth 
shot  turned  him,  and  as  he  swerved  I  gave 
him  my  sixth  and  last  cartridge  in  the 
flank,  which  hastened  his  departure,  and  he 
finally  disappeared  over  a  rise  in  the  ground  a 
mile  away,  still  going  strong.  Had  my  magazme 
jammed  during  that  fateful  charge  the  chances 


and  bodies  for  ticks  ;  where  they  had  taken  hold 
of  the  flesh  it  was  a  painful  operation  to  jjuH 
them  off,  as  they  almost  invariably  brought  away 
a  piece  of  the  flesh  with  them. 

We  camped  on  the  south  bank  of  the  Athi 
River  for  two  or  three  days  trying  to  find  a  ford. 
Eventually  this  was  discovered  and  we  crossed 
with  some  difficulty,  the  river  being  in  flood. 
The  river  bed  was  composed  of  granite  slabs, 
worn  smooth  as  glass  by  the  action  of  the  swift 
and  powerful  current.  Dee[)  holes  between 
these     blocks    made     the     crossing     somewhat 


SPORT    AND    ADVENTURE    IN    OALLALAND. 


189 


Ft  out  a\ 


dangerous,  while  even  on  the  stones  iheniselves 
there  was  scarcely  any  foothold.  However,  a 
rope,  which  we  slung  across  from  bank  to  bank, 
helped  matters  somewhat,  and  we  landed  at  last 
on  the  opposite  bank  thoroughly  exhausted. 

Rivers  are  one 
of  the  greatest 
obstacles  to  the 
traveller  in 
Africa  when  he 
is  journeying  off 
the  beaten  path. 
Some  can  be 
forded  with 
difficulty  by 
means  of  a  rope, 
others  have  to 
be  crossed  by 
means  of  a 
hastily  construc- 
ted raft,  while 
others  again  can 
only  be  success- 
fully negotiated 
by  means  of  a 
rough    bridge, 

built  on  the  spot  with  whatever  materials  are  to 
hand.  I  am  speaking,  of  course,  of  the  un- 
inhabited districts,  where  there  are  no  natives 
with  canoes  to  assist  one. 

Four  days'  difficult  journey  awaited  us  on  the 
other  side  of  the  Athi.  One  march  brought  us 
to  the  Thika-Thika  River,  which  we  crossed  by 
means  of  a  raft  hauled  backwards  and  for- 
wards with  a  stout  line.  Two  separate  parties 
of  the  men  upset  it  in 
dragged  across,  drenched 
and  miserable,  amid  the 
jeers  of  their  com- 
panions. 

Leaving  the  Thika- 
Thika  behind  us,  we 
floundered  for  three  days 
among  steep  hills,  with 
deep  and  precipitous 
ravmes  crossing  and  re- 
crossmg  in  every  direc- 
tion. 'iVees,  a  tangle  of 
rank  undergrowth,  and 
various  rhinoceroses  con- 
stituted the  predommant 
features  of  the  landscape. 
It  is  most  exciting  while 
threading  one's  way 
through  the  jungle  to 
almost  walk  upon  a  sleep- 
ing rhinoceros.  There 
is  a  quick,  indignant 
snort,   then  a    rush    from 


THE   AUTHORS    CAMP   ON    THE   ATHI    RIVER. 


crossing,    and    were 


the  rudely  awakened  beast.  Everybody  dodges 
behind  the  nearest  cover  with  great  celerity, 
while  the  rhinoceros  charges  through  the  party 
with  great  speed  and  disappears  in  the  rear. 
A  gabble  of  voices   from  the  excited   men  as 

they  resume 
their  hastily  dis- 
carded loads, 
and  the  caravan 
once  more  falls 
into  line  and 
pursues  the  un- 
even tenor  of  its 
way. 

Final!  y  w  e 
reached  the 
Tana  River,  ren- 
dered famous  by 
Mr.  Rider  Hag- 
gard as  the  scene 
of  the  great  fight 
between  Allan 
Quater  main's 
party  and  the 
Masai  warriors. 
We  crossed  the 
Tana  with  the  timely  aid  of  an  A'kikuyu 
chief,  who  answered  to  the  euphonious  name 
of  Kinuthia.  Together  with  some  of  his 
aristocracy,  he  condescended  to  lay  aside  his 
scanty  dignity,  and  still  scantier  garments,  and 
help  us  across,  in  consideration  of  sundry 
pieces  of  cloth.  We  were  now  in  the  ]\Iaranga 
country,  and  here  we  camped  for  a  few  days  in 
order  to  lay  in  a  store  of  provisions  for  our 
journey  round   the    eastern    slopes   of    Mount 


{Photo. 


I-!0!ll   .l\ 


[Photo. 


190 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


'-■'-■J.  .., 


From  a\ 


THE   CAMP   AT   MARANGA,    WHERE   THE    EXPEDITION    CAME   VEKY    NEAR    BEING    MASSACKEU. 


[Pholo. 


Kenia,  whose  magnificent  snow  -  clad  peak 
towered  nearly  nineteen  thousand  feet  skyward 
some  sixty  miles  to  the  north-west. 

At  Maranga  we  were  warned  by  Manga,  the 
chief,  that  the  tribes  to  the  east  of  Kenia  were 
exceedingly  hostile  to  strangers,  and  had  already 
attacked  two  white  traders,  badly  mauling  their 
caravan  and  also  wounding  one  of  the  white  men. 
To  have  gone  round  by  West  Kenia  would  have 
entailed  a  toilsome  journey  of  at  least  twenty 
e.xtra  days,  so  we  decided  to  risk  the  hostile 
natives,  and  amid  much  croaking  and  shaking 
of  heads  by  the  people  of  Maranga  we  started. 

The  gloomy  predictions  of  our  late  hosts  we 
found  to   be  fully  justified.     The   natives  were 
sullen  and  inclined  to  be  actively  hostile,  and  it 
behoved    us    to    keep    a 
sharp  look  -  out.       At  the 
second    halting -place   an 
awkward   fracas   occurred 
which    might    have     had 
very  serious  consequences 
to  the  caravan. 

As  we  were  pitching 
the  tents  and  preparing 
generally  for  a  halt  a  large 
number  of  warriors,  fully 
armed  with  spears  and 
shields,  clubs,  bows  and 
arrows,  and  swords,  ap- 
peared in  the  surrounding 
bush.  They  j)roceeded  to 
demonstrate  in  force  by 
yelling  and  hooting  and 
otherwise  making  them- 
selves unpleasant,  without, 
however,   committing  any 


overt  act  of  hostility,  so  no  notice  was  taken 
of  them.  After  our  meal  my  two  companions 
and  myself  retired  to  our  tents  to  rest.  Suddenly 
we  heard  the  rush  of  naked  feet,  and  then  a 
mighty  yell  arose. 

Rushing  out  of  our  tents  we  were  just  in  time 
to  prevent  our  own  men  from  firing  into  the 
excited  mob  of  savages,  wlio  were  dancing  round 
the  camp  yelling  and  brandishing  their  spears. 
One  of  their  chiefs  was  endeavouring  to  keep 
them  in  check,  on  seeing  which  we  ordered  our 
men  to  put  down  their  rifles  while  we  sent  over 
to  the  excited  savages  for  explanations.  After  a 
lot  of  shouting  and  gesticulation  we  elicited  the 
information  that  the  sa\ages  had  just  come  from 
a   big  "beer   drink"   m   a  neighbouring  village. 


J''?oin  a] 


Jills  i.nii.i;,   1  !■..%  I    WAS   iiiii  Aiiii'iKS  iii'.Mi.  luic  sia'i.i;ai.  .Mu.sriis. 


{I'lwto. 


si'oRT   AM)  .\i)\i;.\ir 


IX     (iAJ. I.ALAN  IJ. 


191 


and  lliat  one  of  their  number,  bolder  or  more 
intoxicated  than  his  fellows,  had  rushed  through 
our  camp  shoutuiL;  his  war-cry  and  waving  aloft 
ins  club.  Our  men  thought  that  an  attack  was 
imminent,  and  were  preparing  to  use  their  rifles 
with  deadly  effect  when  our  timely  appearance 
l)revented  a  serious  outl)reak.  Had  a  shot 
been  fired  nothing  could  have  kept  the  drink- 
maddened  A'kikuyu  back.  The  camp  being 
absolutely  open  and  defenceless  there  could 
have  been  only  one  result,  and  another  massacre 
would  have  been  added  to  the  already  long  list 
of  tragedies  which  have  occurred  in  Africa's 
dark  places. 

Mutual  ex- 
planations ap- 
l)arently  set  the 
matter  right, 
but  we  could 
see  that  the 
natives  were 
very  sullen. 
They  hung 
about  as  if  con- 
templating an 
attack  in  earn- 
est, but  we  put 
a  strong  guard 
on  the  camp 
and  each  took 
a  watch  our- 
selves, and  thus 
the  remainder 
of  the  day  and 
the  succeeding 
night  passed 
([uietly. 

Next  morn- 
ing we  arose 
early  and 
moved  onwards 
before  our 
friends  the 
e  n  e  m  y    h  a  d 

awakened  to  the  realities  ot  the  situation.  We 
had  some  rather  rough  travelling  for  a  day  or 
two.  'I'iie  country  was  exceedingly  hilly  and 
the  vegetation  very  dense.  A  thick  mist  hung 
about  the  hillsides  in  the  early  morning,  and 
during  the  day  a  fine  rain  soaked  us  to  the  skin. 
'1  he  steep  [)aths,  being  mostly  red  clay,  were  very 
sli[)pery,  and  the  men  slid  and  sprawled  about 
under  their  loads  in  a  manner  which  severely 
tried  tlieir  strength  and  endurance.  The  rank 
vegetation  dripped  with  moisture,  and  in  forcing 
our  way  through  it  we  were  subjected  to  a  con- 
tinuous icy  shower-bath. 

On  the  fourth  day  we  reached  the  country  of 
the     Wa'M'bu,    a    sub-tribe    of    the    A'kikuyu. 


"our     two     CUIIIES    KENDEKEU      THEM 
SELVES  QUITE  HOARSE  WITH    SHOUTINi;. 


I'hese  were  the  people  who  had  attacked  the 
two  white  men  some  weeks  before,  so  that  it 
was  necessary  for  us  to  be  very  wary.  Our  first 
camp  was  pitched  at  midday  and  just  within  their 
borders.  During  the  afternoon  a  few  natives 
showed  themselves  in  the  distance,  evidently 
reconnoitring,  but  they  did  not  approach  near 
to  our  can)p.  As  the  country  round  appeared 
to  be  densely  inhabited  this  was  a  bad  sign, 
and  we  therefore  redoubled  our  precautions 
against  surprise.  The  next  day  the  natives,  having 
apparently  made  up  their  minds  to  try  our 
strength  and  temper,  made  a  demonstration  in 

force,  and  for 
an  hour  or  two 
our  camp  was 
the  centre  of  a 
vast  circle  of 
yelling  black 
natives,  who, 
however,  for- 
bore to  directly 
attack  us.  Our 
own  men  were 
very  nervous 
and  wished  us 
to  retire,  and 
we  could  see 
that  they 
needed  very 
little  encour- 
agement to 
make  a  bolt  for 
the  border,  in 
which  case  we 
should  have 
fa  red  very 
badly.  We 
decided,  there- 
fore, to  adopt  a 
bold,  if  some- 
w  h  a  t  hazard- 
ous,  course, 
and  instructed 
those  of  our  niLii  who  spoke  the  A'kikuyu  lan- 
guage to  call  out  to  the  Wa'M'bu  and  request 
tiiat  one  of  their  chiefs  would  call  on  us,  that  we 
might  try  to  arrange  matters.  This  the  chiefs  were 
very  reluctant  to  do,  but  finally,  after  an  hour's 
long-distance  conversation,  they  consented. 

Presently  two  men  were  seen  approaching 
our  camp.  'I'hough  both  were  old  men,  they 
were  of  fine  physicjue  and  haughty  presence, 
tall,  and  exceedingly  well  formed.  Once  they 
were  safely  in  camp  we  "  bluffed  "  for  all  we 
were  worth.  We  intimated  that  we  were  most 
annoyed  by  the  unseemly  noise  which  their 
people  had  made  round  our  camp,  and  in  the 
event  of  the  offence  being  repeated  we  threat- 


THK    WIDi:    WORLD    MAGAZINE 


'J 


1,.K   VAII'    A  I     MAKANOA,    WIlFKli     lllK    EXlKUniON    CAME   VEKY    NEAK    llEING    MASSACKEU. 


[I'hoto. 


K 


whose    nugtiificciU    snow  -  clad    peak 

\  nearly  t)iiictccn  thousand  feet  skyward 

•y  miles  to  the  north-west. 

.VI  .*i  we  were  warned  by  Manga,  the 

ch:ff,  \\.  iihes  to  the  east  ol   Kenia  were 

t  4ly  hostile  to  strangers,  and  had  already 

hite  traders,  badly  mauling  their 

J  wounding  one  of  the  white  men. 

'•  round  by  West  Kenia  would  have 

)n»e  journey  of  at  least  twenty 

^'1  we  decided  to  risk  the  hostile 

;  aniid  much  croaking  and  shaking 

by  the  people  of  Maranga  we  started. 

'     ris  of  our  late  hosts  we 
■-.--,   ,..  Litied.     The   natives  wcie 
'I  and  inclined  to  be  actively  hostile,  and  it 
!     us    to    kee[)    a 
^    '■■■?       At  the 
place  an 
'urred 


overt  act  of  hostility,  so  no  notice  was  taken 
of  them.  After  our  meal  my  two  companions 
and  myself  retired  to  our  tents  to  rest.  Suddenly 
we  heard  tlie  rush  of  naked  feet,  and  then  a 
mighty  yell  arose. 

Rushing  out  of  our  tents  we  were  just  in  tmie 
to  prevent  our  own  men  from  firing  into  the 
excited  mob  of  savages,  who  were  dancing  round 
the  camp  yelling  and  brandishing  their  s[)ears. 
One  of  their  chiefs  was  endeavourmg  to  keep 
them  in  check,  on  seeing  which  we  ordered  our 
men  to  i)ut  down  their  rifles  while  we  sent  over 
to  the  excited  savages  for  explanations.  After  a 
lot  of  shouting  and  gesticulation  we  elicited  the 
information  that  the  savages  had  just  come  from 
a  big  "beer  drink"   in   a  neighbouring  village, 


.  for  a  halt 

,    luiiy 

:;::rl 
..,,1 

•  \    and    Hwords,  a(>- 


1  .    .1 


in   force    by 

n.l 

in- 

ul. 

vvr,   commuting  any 


Ft  cm  a\ 


'II'     -v.   I  11  .i,  ;,    II. ..II     i.,K    sl.l.KAl.    ;.lw:.llls.  |/V;, 


SPORT   AM)   .\1)\i:n  rrki:    in   c.ai.laland. 


191 


:.>dMa.»»'' 

•„v.  ^ 


t 


and  tliat  uiic  of  their  luinibcr,  bolder  or  more 
intoxicated  than  his  lellows,  had  rushed  through 
our  camp  shoutiHL^  his  war-cry  and  waving  aloft 
ills  club.  Our  men  thought  that  an  attack  was 
miniinent,  and  were  preparing  to  use  their  rifles 
with  deadly  effect  when  our  timely  appearance 
prevented  a  serious  outl)reak.  Had  a  shot 
been  fired  nothing  could  have  kept  the  diink- 
maddened  A'kikuyu  back.  The  cam[)  being 
absolutely  open  and  defenceless  there  could 
have  been  only  one  result,  and  another  massacre 
would  have  been  added  to  the  already  long  list 
of  tragedies  which  have  occurred  in  Africa's 
dark  places. 

Mutual  ex- 
planations ap- 
l)arently  set  the 
matter  right, 
but  we  could 
see  that  the 
natives  were 
very  sullen. 
The)'  hung 
about  as  if  con- 
templating an 
attack  in  earn- 
est, but  we  put 
a  strong  guard 
on  the  camp 
and  each  took 
a  watch  our- 
selves, and  thus 
the  remainder 
of  the  day  and 
the  succeeding 
night  passed 
quietly. 

Next  morn- 
ing we  arose 
early  and 
moved  onwards 
before  our 
friends  the 
enemy    had 

awakened  to  the  realities  ot  the  situation.  We 
had  some  rather  rough  travelling  for  a  day  or 
two.  The  country  was  exceedingly  hilly  and 
the  vegetation  very  dense.  A  thick  mist  hung 
about  the  hillsides  in  the  early  morning,  antl 
during  the  day  a  fine  rain  soaked  us  to  the  skin. 
'1  he  steep  paths,  being  mostly  red  clay,  were  very 
slippery,  and  the  men  slid  and  sjjrawled  about 
under  their  loads  in  a  manner  which  severely 
tried  their  strength  and  endurance.  The  rank 
Vegetation  dripped  with  moisture,  and  in  forcing 
our  way  through  it  we  were  subjected  to  a  con- 
tinuous icy  shower-bath. 

On  the  fourth  day  we  reached  the  country  of 
the    Wa'xM'bu,    a    sub-tribe    of    the    A'kikuyu. 


()UI{     TWO     CUIDES     KENDEREO     1  HEM 
SELVES  QUITE  HOARSE  WITH    SHOUTINc;. 


'Ihese  were  the  people  who  had  attacked  the 
two  white  men  some  weeks  before,  so  that  it 
was  necessary  for  us  to  be  very  wary.  Our  first 
camp  was  pitched  at  midday  and  just  within  their 
borders.  During  the  afternoon  a  few  natives 
showed  themselves  in  the  distance,  evidently 
reconnoitring,  but  they  did  not  approach  near 
to  our  camp.  As  the  country  round  appeared 
to  be  densely  inhabited  this  was  a  bad  sign, 
and  we  therefore  redoubled  our  precautions 
against  surprise.  The  next  day  the  natives,  having 
apparently  made  up  their  minds  to  try  our 
strength  and  temper,  made  a  demonstration  in 

force,  and  for 
an  hour  or  two 
our  camp  was 
the  centre  of  a 
vast  circle  of 
yelling  black 
natives,  who, 
however,  for- 
bore to  directly 
attack  us.  Our 
own  men  were 
very  nervous 
and  wished  us 
to  retire,  and 
we  could  see 
that  they 
needed  very 
little  encour- 
agement to 
make  a  bolt  for 
the  border,  in 
which  case  we 
should  have 
fared  very 
badly.  We 
decided,  there- 
fore, to  adopt  a 
bold,  if  some- 
w  h  a  t  ha/ard- 
ous,  course, 
and  instructed 
those  of  our  men  who  spoke  the  A'kikuyu  lan- 
guage to  call  out  to  the  Wa'M'bu  and  request 
that  one  of  their  chiefs  would  call  on  us,  that  we 
might  try  to  arrange  matters.  This  the  chiefs  were 
\ery  reluctant  to  do,  but  finally,  after  an  hour's 
long-distance  conversation,  they  consented. 

Presently  two  men  were  seen  approaching 
our  camp.  Though  both  were  old  men,  they 
were  of  fine  physicjue  and  haughty  presence, 
tall,  and  exceedingly  well  formed.  Once  they 
were  safely  in  camp  we  "  bluffed  "  for  all  we 
were  wi^rth.  We  intimated  that  we  were  most 
annoyed  by  the  unseemly  noise  which  their 
peo[>le  had  made  round  our  camp,  and  in  the 
event  of  the  offence  being  repeated  we  threat- 


19^ 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


A  CKOUP  OF   ELDEKS  AT  M  1  IIAKA. 


encd   to  «uilly   forth   and   severely   punish    the 

U'c    wound    up    by    informing   the 

(.iii*.!-.  that   they  were   now  in   our   service  as 

Mil.!,  X    i(i(!  that  if  their  [people  interrupted  our 

.  the  country  their  own  Hves  would 

1       .    drastic  measures  sim[)lified 

i>ii<ly,   and    next    morning   we 

rncy. 

1  he  next  two  days'  march  i)rovided  us  with 

<■■        '  M'.-nl   to  last   us    for  some  time. 

I  .  -       !    natives  lined   the    heiglits   on 

of   the    |)ath.      'I'hey   yelled   and 

their    sixrars    with    great    energy, 

,1    ii,..y    \si:rc    coming    to  kill    us, 

;i  great  wealth  of  detail  the 

>   they   intended  to  employ   in 


ide 
d 


is  not  anxious  to  repeat    too  often,  as 
^gp       the    sus[)ense    is  rather    trying.     Open 
^^       hostilities    are    much    less    so,   as    one 
knows  what  to  expect. 

In  the  course  of  the  next  few  days 
we  travelled  over  the  lower  slopes  of  the 
eastern  side  of  Mount  Kenia,  crossing 
the  districts  of  Zuka,  Imbe,  Igani, 
Moravi,  Zura,  and  finally  Munithu 
(which  lies  to  the  north-east  of  that 
mighty  snow-capped  mountain),  where 
we  were  hospitably  received  by  Bei- 
Munithu,  the  chief  We  were  enabled 
to  cross  these  little  countries  in  safety, 
as  an  account  of  our  doings  in  M'bu 
had  preceded  us,  and  we  were  therefore 
held  in  respect.  From  Munithu  we 
marched  to  M'thara,  whose  chief. 
N'dominuki,  was  extremely  friendly. 
At  M'thara  we  found  a  large  caravan 
of  Somali  traders  under  the  leadership  of  one 
Jam:;h  Mahomet.  Some  of  Jamah  Mahomet's 
people,  under  another  Somali  named  Noor 
Adam,  had  journeyed  into  the  Jombeni  hills, 
a  day's  march  away,  whose  forest-clad  heights 
are  inhabited  by  the  powerful  and  treacherous 
\Va'Embe  tribe.  Their  camp  had  been  attacked 
and  nine  of  their  men  killed  by  the  Wa'Embe, 
a  quantity  of  their  trade  goods  being  stolen. 
After  careful  consideration  we  determined  upon 
an  exjK'dition  into  Embe,  with  the  combined 
purpose  of  punishing  the  murderers  and  recover- 
ing the  stolen  goods. 

We  did  not,  however,  succeed  in  accomplish- 
ing either  object.  Our  force  of  combined 
Somalis     and     caravan     porters,     with     rifles 


{Hhoto. 


•d    by 


IH       VC' 

i..  1    ■  i  .       ".  .■..!, I       ,iji|.)car 
n»h«r     ugly.       Howcvrr. 
>n  a  bold  fro: 


;> 


but  it  is  an  cxfx.Ticnce  one 


I     I   II  AK  A     LUII-  V  . 


[J'hoio. 


Sl'ORI"     AND    Al)\  KN  I  IKi:     IN     ( i  AI.I.ALAN  1 ). 


19.^ 


amounted  to  about  sixty  nun,  in  addition  to 
whii'li  we  coniniancktl  about  fifty  of  the 
M  iliara  warriors  armed  witli  spears,  sliields,  and 
bows  and  arrows.  As  we  atlvanced  just  belore 
daylii^lit  into  the  dense  banana  pkuilalions  of 
tile  Wal^mbe  wo  were  cleverly  ambushed. 
'Ihe  fust  alarm  was  a  single  long-drawn  cry  of 
"  Lulu-lulu  u-u  !  "  followed  by  a  rifle  shot  from 
our  advance  guartl.  Our  men  instantly  poured 
a  fierce  fire  into  the  bush  on  either  side  of  t!ie 
path,  and  for  a  few  moments  pandemonium 
reigned  supreme.  The  dense  blackness  that 
precedes  the  early  dawn  |)revented  us  seeing  the 
enemy,  while  the  almost  impenetrable  bush  on 
each    side    of    the    path    ap[)eared    weird    and 


blade  had  been  driv(Mi  right  through  his  l)ody, 
from  side  to  side,  'ihe  grief  of  his  lieutenants 
and  followers  knew  no  bound.s,  and  the  dawn 
resounded  with  their  cries  of  grief  and  supi)li- 
calions  to  Allah.  The  stricken  man  died  shortly 
afterwards  and  was  buried  there  and  then  by  the 
side  of  the  path,  with  all  the  ceremonies  and 
prayers  prescribed  by  the  K(jran.  A  guard 
stood  by  with  ritles  at  the  ready  in  order  to 
repel  any  attempts  on  the  part  of  the  ^^'a'^>mbe 
to  interrupt  the  funeral. 

At  sunrise  we  held  a  consultation  to  decide 
what  further  ste{^s  we  should  take.  We  found, 
however,  that  the  Somaiis  were  thoroughly  dis- 
couraged by  the  death  of  their  leader,  and  they 


1 1  out  a 


ghastly  as  revealed  by  the  intermittent  Hashes 
of  the  men's  Sniders.  \'ells,  howls,  the  re])orts 
of  the  rifles,  and  the  sound  of  groans  blended 
together  in  the  darkness  to  form  a  i)icturc  of 
raging  horror  not  easily  forgotten.  This  state 
of  things  lasted  for  some  minutes,  then  suddenly 

silence  I    dead   silence!       The  enemy   hatl 

withdrawn  as  (juickly  as  they  had  app'eareil, 
probably  daunted  by  the  fierceness  of  our  fire. 
Had  they  pushed  their  advantage  we  should 
have  been  in  a  very  tight  jilace  indeed. 

As  soon  as  the  firing  ceased  we  investigated 
our  casualties.  To  our  great  sorrow  we  lound 
tliat  Jamah  .Mahomet,  the  Somali  leader,  was 
dying.       A    great    spear    with    a    threefootlong 

V.-l.  xi.-25. 


[r/ioto. 


refused  to  proceed  fardier,  saying  that  their 
camp  was  undefended,  and  they  feared  it  would 
be  attacked  in  llieir  ai)sence.  As  we  were  not 
strong  enou'j,!)  to  attack  the  W'a'Embe  without 
their  aid  we  were  reluctantly  compelled  to 
acquiesce  in  a  retreat,  whic  h  was  accordingly 
(  arried  out  without  fiirther  accident.  On  our 
ri  turn  to  our  respective  camps  we  found  that 
tli(  y  had  been  surrounded  all  night  by  large 
numbers  of  armed  men,  who  had  concealed 
themselves  in  the  bush  and  who,  without  doubt. 
Were  wailing  for  news  of  our  defeat  and 
mas.sacre  in  Kmbe  to  rush  the  camps  ami  loot 
them,  first  spearing  the  few  defenders. 

Aflt-r  this  misha[i  we  stayed  (fuietly  in   (amp, 


IHK    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


;  l''""'o  '•-"'  "-'^"^  iiiarcli  north 

-    -'I    Xyiro.     At    this    time     1 
I  the  quaint  but  somewhat  disgust- 
1  V  of  "  blood  brotherhood  "  with  one 

oi  .., -i>  of  M'thara.     It    is  not  necessary 

to  go  fully  into  the  details.  Suffice  it  to  .say 
that  the  prospective  "  blood  brothers "  sit  on 
the  j(round  t.  nch  other,  while  their  friends 

s«jual  in  aw.  le   round   them.     The  oath 

of  "Muma,"  or  "blood-brotherhood,"  is  then 
;i  ■  !   with    appropriate    ceremony,    and 

;ii.  ncisions  are   made  with  a  knife  in 

the  chest  of  each  candidate,  deep  enough  to 
•  ause  the  blood  to  flow.  Pieces  of  toasted 
liver  from  a  sheep  killed  for  the  pur[)Ose  are 
then  proiUiced.  The.se  pieces  are  dipped  in 
their  own  blood  by  the  candidates,  after  which 
t'  '       je  pieces  and   devour  them.      The 

s;        -  -icii  cheer  and  shcnit  "  Oroi  Mumn" 

several    times   and     the 
iipleted. 
.. ..-  >>    T>.;ii.  iciit    food 
been   obtained    we 
!i  our  march  to 
n   Nyiro.      The 
li  u-.'  ^\•.  !■.■  al)Ie 

ist;-d 
ii(iii.ii/e) 

■ let)  Hour, 

■  yams  and  sweet 

U'e  re(|iiired  a 

'  '        iiuity,  for 

Iter  leav- 

^1  thara  we  plunjied 

■''"•■  !t 


was    uiiobiainabl. 
i|   lo  b. 
I   or  pet 
ks,    bir. 
various  cau.ses, 
*     return    for 
•iiul   a   half ! 


depended  upon  procuring  it  at  Mount  N'goniba, 
;in  extinct  crater,  marked  on  the  map  as  a  salt 
one.  \Vhen  we  reached  N'gomba  we  found 
that  the  alleged  salt  consisted  of  sulphate  of 
magnesia  and  carbonate  of  lime  !  Altogether 
we  were  over  four  months  without  a  grain  of 
salt,  but  we  none  of  us  felt  any  ill-effects  from 
our  forced  abstinence  from  this  indispensable 
adjunct  of  the  civilized  table.  Doubtless  the 
flesh  of  the  animals  we  killed  contained  enoueh 
of  the  mineral  to  prevent  actual  ill-health. 

On  the  fourth  day  after  leaving  M'thara  we 
reached  the  Waso  Nyiro  River.  This  river  rises 
in  the  north-west  of  Mount  Kenia,  and  not  in  the 
Aberdare  range  (as  re[)resented  in  the  maps),  and 
after  flowing  due  nortli  for  some  thirty  odd  miles 
makes  a  great  curve  to  the  eastward  and  winds 
on  through  the  desert,  finally  losing  itself  in  a 
swamp  known  as  I.orian.      Wlicther  there  is  any 


harl 


VOLCANIC   CI  IFIS    M;aR    THE    WAsO    NVIKO, 


il'lioto. 


Our   su[)ply  of  food 

w.i^  fxluusled  in  little  over  a  fortnight,  and  for 

';  ^^t^  l'Vf(l  u{)on  a  purely  meat  diet, 

■  -"ir  rilles  f«>r  our  daily  sustenance. 

Mies  happened,  game  was  scarce 

I   t<j   the  most  dire  straits,  the 

'>n  going  without    food   for 

;-.  alter  leaving   M'thara  we 

herd  of  buffalo,  and  after  a  couple 

'    careful    stalking   and    ten 

"  ■■'       '-cured    three    noble 

•    'lit    up    and    their 
''  ito  biltong. 

'  ')  that  we  were  without 
•bi  we  had  purpo.sely 
I   monlliV  supply,  as  we 

(Til  be  CO  Hi 


outlet  from  Eorian  is  not  known,  though  it  is 
l)rot)able  that  there  is  not  ;  but  so  much  is  certain 
— the  Waso  Nyiro  never  reaches  the  sea. 

Our  camp  was  pitched  u[)on  a  patch  of  green 
grass,  which  surrounded  a  small  spring  of  warm 
water.  This  water  was  so  strongly  im|)ieg- 
naled  with  mineral  salts  as  to  be  undrinkable. 
It,  however,  formed  a  beautilul  natural  bath, 
of  which  we  availed  ourselves  daily  while  we 
remained  in  this  place.  We  named  it  the 
"(ireen  Camp,"  as  it  was  in  such  pleasing 
'  onlrasl  to  the  surrounding  desert. 

Near   by  flowed  the    Waso   Nyiro,   its  banks 

eovered    with    tloum    palms    and    green    grass. 

(lame  was  exceedingly  plentiful,  and  we  laid  in  a 

good  slock  of  meat  for  the  long  journey  eastward. 

iudi'ii.) 


In  the  "Land  of  the  NeVer=NeVer." 


Bv  Alkxandi.r  Macdonai-d,   F.R.S.G.S. 

An  exciting  experience  in  the  little-known  interior  of  North-Western  Australia —the  grim   "  Land  of  the 

Never-Never."     While    on    a   prospecting   expedition    in   this    country   the    author  and    his   companions 

were  able  to  rescue  three  miners  from  a    fearful  fate  at  the  hands  of  cannibal  blacks. 


WAV  ill  the  far  North  -  West  of 
Australia  lies  a  grim  land  of  which 
tlie  ordinary  geographer  knows  but 
little,  and  which  will  probabl)-,  for 
many  years  to  come,  remain  un- 
visited  by  white  men.  It  is  peopled  by  hostile 
savages,  the  most  warlike  of  all  the  aboriginal 
tribes,  who,  from  the  mountain  fastnesses  of  the 
shadowy  Leopold  ranges,  guard  their  domain 
jealously,  sullenly  daring  the  wanderer  to 
penetrate  their  chosen  haunts.  It  is,  perhaps, 
the  least-known  area  on  the  face  of  the  earth, 
and  well  deserves  its  title  of  "  Land  of  the 
Never-Never,"  which,  in  native  parlance,  means 
"the  region  of  the  lost,"  for  lost  indeed  have 
many  venturesome  pioneers  been  amid  its  rocky 
steeps  and  forest-clad  vales — lost  to  all  time  ;  and 
what  fate  befell  them  is  more  than  mere 
conjecture  with  those  who,  like  myself,  have 
endeavoured  to  trace  their  footsteps. 

It  is  just  about  four  years  ago  since  I  left  the 
little  Settlement  of  Derby,  on  the  coastal  border 
of  this  gloomy  territory,  in  conuiiand  of  a  small 
party  bent  on  crossing  the  forbidding  ranges,  or 
at  least  making  the  attempt.  Only  a  week 
before  three  reckless  gold-miners  had  set  out 
from  Hall's  Creek,  farther  inland,  determined 
to  thoroughly  prcjspect  the  same  country  for 
niineial  treasure.  Their  outfit  was  carried  by 
two  camels  and  one  pack  iior.se,  and  they 
made  a  brave  show  as  they  headed  towards 
the  mountains.  lUit  their  sanguine  expecta- 
tions Were  by  no  means  shared  Ijy  the 
small  community  left  behind,  and  my  little 
expedition  was  instructed  to  keep  a  strict 
look-out  for  the  daring  trio,  and  warn  them 
against  proceeding  farther  on  their  mission  than 
events  justified.  And  so  we  bore  away  on  a 
N.N.E.  course,  steering  for  a  distant  break  in 
the  barrier  ranges,  the  only  gap  in  a  length  of 
over  a  hundred  miles.  Half-a-dozen  horses 
provided  our  means  of  ti"aiisi)ort,  for  camels, 
though  excellently  adapted  tor  travelling  across 
the  southern   desert,   were   not  to  my  likmg  as 


mountain  climbers,  and  their  ponderously  slow 
onward  movement  was  a  feature  I  had  grown  to 
detest  cordially  while  crossing  the  interior  salt 
wastes  but  a  few  months  previously. 

My  companions  were  three  of  the  best-known 
men  in  the  Western  Colony,  and  each  of  them 
had  accompanied  me  on  earlier  exploring  trips. 
Phil,  the  geologist  and  my  trusted  "  second," 
was  a  young  Englishman  of  inflexible  will  and 
oft-proved  courage.  Mac  was  a  bronzed  son 
of  Scotia,  whose  body  bore  the  scars  of  many 
conflicts  and  whose  muscles  were  as  bands  of 
steel.  Lastly  came  "Emu  Bill.'  He  was  a 
sun-dried  veteran  of  the  bush,  an  Australian 
e\ery  inch  of  him,  but,  as  he  said  himself,  "an 
adaptable  sort."  Certainly,  no  man  had  ever 
more  fit  associates  on  a  dangerous  expedition. 

We  were  four  da)s  (uit  before  we  reached  the 
foothills  of  the  frowning  peaks  flanking  the 
narrow  pass,  and  during  that  time  not  a  native 
had  been  observed  :  but  on  the  morning  (  f  the 
fifth  day  we  entered  the  rugged  defile  leading 
to  the  heart  of  the  forbidden  tract,  and  soon 
became  conscious  of  many  peering  eyes  watch- 
ing our  advance  from  every  piece  of  scrub  and 
convenient  boulder  on  the  rough  hillside.  We 
were  passing  through  the  doorway  of  the  ni\sti( 
Never-Never  Land. 

There  was  scarcely  a  vestige  of  timber  m 
sight  at  this  point ;  the  valley  seemed  graven 
out  of  solid  metal,  and  only  delicately  balanced 
boulders  strewed  the  lower  slopes  and  flats. 

That  night  we  cami)ed  near  the  bed  of  a  dry 
watercourse  that  descended  through  the  gaunt 
dioritic  rocks  on  our  left,  and  twined  a  la/y 
course  far  outwards  into  the  shimmering  plains. 
This  was  our  first  "discovery."' 

"It  proves  conclusively,'  Phil  remarked,  after 
we  had  partaken  of  supper,  "  that  the  interior  ol 
Australia  was  at  no  very  ancient  date  a  vast  sea 
into  which  the  great  rivers  of  the  north  flowed." 

"  \'ou  may  content  yersel"  wi'  that  informa- 
tion,' muttered  Mac,  drily;  '•but  I'm  more 
concerned    about    the    tactics    o'    them     black 


T./. 


THE    WIDE    WORI.l)    MAGAZINE. 


.  that  \ui\v  been  lunyiii'  ;ii  oui    heels  all 

li  looks  very  unhealthy  like,  I'm  thinkin". 

Phil  laughed.  "So  long  as  they  keep  a 
resjKctahle  distance  we  won't  growl,  Mac," 
he   said,   complacently.     "And    now  to  return 

to  the  rivers " 

"  Bother    the    rivers,"    grunted    Emu     15111, 

'     '  lund   uneasily.     "I    agree   with    .Mac 

Messed    niggers  will    keep   us   lively 

enough  He    broke    off    abruptly,    as    if 

d  t<i  confess  his  fears  ;    and  Phil  calmly 

i<  ,u...^d  his  instructive  discourse. 

"  I  don't  think  the  natives  will  trouble  us, 
boys,"  I  said,  during  a  pause  in  the  conversa 
tion.  "They  usually  like  to  attack  at  short 
range,  and  they  couldn't  very  well  do  that  here 
unless  they  come  along  in  the  dark.  I  rather 
think  they'll  wait  until  we  get  into  more  wooded 
cjuntry  " 

We  were  now,  as  nearly  as  I  could  guess, 
about  a  hundred  and  fifty  miles  away  from  our 
starting  [Kjint,  but  were  still  only  just  within  the 
Ujrders  of  the  Leopold  territory,  and  little  more. 
It  would  be  a  most  inauspicious  beginning  to 
our  long  overland  |ourney  were  we  to  have  a 
skirnii>h  with  the  blacks  at  this  stage,  and  I 
devoutly  ho|)ed  they  would  leave  us  alone. 

'  \Vc  can  only  trust  to  Providence,"  said 
Phil,  rolling  him.self  comfortably  in  his  blanket  : 
and  Mac,  who  was  taking  the  first  watch, 
chuckled  derisively  as  he  seized  his  cherished 
'  '       '     '  ind   began  to  patrol  the  camp  fire 

1  ilthy  steps,  as  if  he  were  praclising 
a  ghost  dance.  "  It  might  be  well  to  mind, 
Phil,  my  n)an,"  he  soliloquized  loudlv,  halting 
in  his  march,  "that  boiled  golologist  should  be 
very  tender,  an'  most  appetisin'  to  black  |)alates. ' 
With   whi< 'n  tiark  statement   he   continued  his 

■ -'ifions  through   the  vague    half-glo(jiii, 

iie  rest  of  the  camp  slumbered. 
All  that  night  the  distant  yells  of  the  wakeful 
'    '   ■    ■  Illy   thr(jiigh    the   air,  and 

1  ..  .  jke  with  a  start,  imagining 

iti>-  s.n.i^^e  horde  to  be  close  upon  us,  but  eacli 
time  I  found  our  w.iry  guardian  alert  and  watch 

'   '     '' 'Iiylight  approached  the  disconiant 

•-•    to  a  sombre    f|uiet,  and    wjuii 

■led     the   long    valley,    bathed    in 

;"  '      '    d  indescribably  peaceful. 

;t    have    been    celebrating 

•c  last  night,"  yawned   Phil,  arousing 

:    with  an  efTort.      "  I  do  wish  they  could 

'  ''  '  "'••rtainments  with  less  noise." 

I  "  "d  to  take  a  more  serious  view  of 

nal   dislurljan  \  corroboree  is 

■        '  ions,  and   when 

.^hbourhood   the 

iionial  is  rather  loo  obvious  to 

pi',a.s,i.  ;!),•  intruders  — that  is,  to   those 


who  are  experienced  in  aboriginal  customs. 
i:mu  l>ill  evidently  shared  my  misgivings,  for 
after  a  hurried  breakfiist  he  said  with  some 
apprehension  :  — 

"  'I'hem  nigs  had  something  special  on  the  go 
last  night,  and  the  sooner  we  get  out  of  this 
the  better.  I  could  have  sworn  I  heard  the 
ghinghi* " 

"  Maybe  ye  did,"  interjected  Mac,  calmly  ; 
"  it  sounded  all  right,  and  more  than  once  too, 
but  I  wasn't  willin'  to  wake  the  camp  unks; 
things  got  desperate.  All  the  same,  the  black 
beggars  had  some  unholy  rampage  about  mid- 
night, the  meanin'  o'  which  I  can't  understand." 

He  stopped  ;  then,  turning  to  me,  said 
abruptly,  "  I  wonder  if  the  three  miners  got  past 
liere  safely  ?  " 

The  implied  doubt  in  his  words  was  signifi- 
cant. As  yet  I  had  given  little  thought  to  those 
who  had  preceded  us  into  the  country,  thinking 
they  would  still  be  well  ahead  ;  but  now,  when 
I  considered  their  slower  rate  of  progression  and 
their  probably  indefinite  movements  when  once 
amid  promising  auriferous  areas,  a  sudden  fear 
crept  over  me.  What  if  they  had  dallied  by 
this  dry  creek  where  we  were  now  encamped  ? 
They  might  not  have  suspected  danger,  and 
lain  down  to  slee[)  without  thinking  of  posting 
a   sentry.       Phil   broke   in   on    my   un[)rofitable 


musings. 


"  We  might  have  gues.sed  that  something  had 
happened,"  he  said,  grimly.  "The  fact  of  the 
natives  watching  us  so  eagerly  yesterday  showed 
that  they  had  either  been  prepared  for  our 
coming  or  that  they  had  been  gathered  together 
before  and  because  of  some  special  occurrence. 
Then,  again,  they  never  attempted  to  check  us 
111  any  way,  and  by  not  trying  to  wipe  us  out 
last  night  they  have  made  it  plain  that  llieir 
\i;4ilaiice  of  the  day  was  a  mere  blind." 

"  I'm  not  quite  willing  to  credit  them  with  so 
much  intelligence,  Phil,"  I  answered,  "  but  it  is 
crrlninly  suspicious  that  they  should  indulge  m 
high  festival  immediately  we  have  passed.  .Any- 
how, we  had  better  decide  to  remain  in  the 
in  ighbourhood  another  day  and  make  what 
investigations  we  can.  ' 

"Sup|)ose  we  move  along  the  creek  a  mile  or 
two,"  suggested  Mac.  "  There  might  be  more 
vegetation  farther  down  the  valley,  an'  the 
horses  must  get  something  to  eat." 

.\  few  minutes  later  (Hir  little  cavalcade  was 
forcing  an  eastward  trail  aUjiig  the  base  of  the 
mountain  spur.  Already  we  had  diverged  from 
our  mapped  out  course.  The  sun  was  now 
well     lip     in     the     heavens:     the     gaunt     rocks 


•  A  war-cry,  created  by  swingin);  a  curiously-shaped  piece  of 
wood  ihroiigli  llie  air— used  at  special  festivals  or  war  preparations. 
—  .Pinion. 


I\      I111-:     ••l..\NI)    ol       Mil.     XKXKR    NKN'KR." 


1^7 


sciiuillalfil  and  shone  in  the  intense  lij;ht,  and 
the  s[)cctral  heat  vapour  fiUing  the  valley  rose 
and  fell  like  the  waters  of  a  vast  ocean.  The 
deep  drone  of  myriads  of  mos(iuitoes  and  flying 
pests  alone  broke  the  deathlike  stillness  as  we 
slowly  forged  along,  our  minds  filled  with  vague 
misgivings.  After  an  hour's  weary  travel  we 
reached  a  point  where  the  valley  broke  away  in 
chaotic  "  blows,"  forming  numberless  lesser 
ridges;  and  here  Kmu  Bill's  old  mining  in- 
stinct came  back  to  him  and  compelled  him 
to  shout  out  in  sheer  delight. 

''  Look  at  those  ([uart/  outcrops,"  he  cried, 
admiringly.      "  Millions  o'  tons  in  sight,  too." 

"  I  see  some  spiky  bits  o'  grass,  an'  that's 
more  to  the  purpose,"  said  Mac,  without 
enthusiasm  ;  and  we  steered  for  a  spot  on  the 
edge  of  the  winding  channel,  where  an  inviting 
patch  of  s[)inife\  and  mulga  brush  was  in 
evidence. 

"  And,  by  Jove  1  there's  quite  a  pool  in  the 
creek  beside  it,"  exclaimed  Phil,  as  we  drew 
near.  This  was  a  pleasant  discovery,  indeed, 
for  our  water  supply  was  going  down  rather 
rapidly,  and  the  horses  had  not  had  a  drink 
that  morning. 

"  If  that  mining  outfit 
missed  this  they  are  no 
good,''  growled  Emu 
Bill,  rushing  forward. 
"  I'll  bet  my  boots  the 
creek  sands  are  full  o' 
gold."  Then  suddenly 
he  uttered  a  cry  of 
horror.  '•  liones  !  "  he 
murmured,  feebly. 
"  Mates,  we  have  come 
too  late  :  " 

Me  stood  staring  at 
a  bleaching  mass  that 
bordered  on  the  steep 
banks  of  the  creek.  I 
hurried  to  his  side,  and 
there,  truly  enough,  lay 
a  heap  of  white  glisten- 
ing fragments.  Silently 
we  grouped  arouiul  the 
mouldering  remains  and 
gazed  at  the  woful  spec- 
tacle with  misty  eyes. 

"  They  had  hard  luck, 
boys,"  said  Phil,  sadly. 
"They  must  have  found 
the  water-hole  dry  and 
lain  down  beside  it, 
though  the  sj)ring  does 
not  look  an  intermittent 
one " 

"  P'Ut  how  could  they 


turn  into  skeletons  in  such  a  short  time?" 
interjected  .Mac,  doubtfully.  '"They  could  only 
be  here  two  or  three  days  before  us." 

"There's  something  in  that,"  I  said,  looking 
about  for  some  confirmatory  evidence  of  the 
recent  habitation  of  the  district.  Several  empty 
beef  tins  lying  near  by  attracted  my  attention, 
and  a  pick  and  shovel  were  soon  brought  to 
light  by  Emu  Bill.  The  labels  were  still  on  the 
former  articles,  and  the  mining  implements  were 
a[)parently  quite  new.  There  seemed  little  room 
for  tloubt  as  to  the  miners'  fate,  and  yet  I  was 
not  convinced. 

"  Are  you  sure  they  are  human  bones,  Phil  ?  " 
I  asked,  as  he  bent  to  examine  the  melancholy 
pile. 

He  gingerly  hauled  forth  a  camel's  skull  from 
the  bottom  of  the  heap,  then  poked  among  the 
litter  with  awakened  keenness. 

"  Thank  goodness  !  "  he  said  at  last,  raising 
his    head,    ''  there   are   only  the    bones  of  the 


N^V<./tKI,H  Hf^tP/ 


WE   GAZED    AT   TIIK   WilKUL  SPECTACLE. 


20O 


T\]K   \\\\)\'.   WORLD   .m.\(;.\/.im: 


of    tlif    narrow   taMcland,    wlicic    two  pititiilly 
1  .  !  ..  1.;.  .  „,(»„  i-ould  be  seen  rolling  among 

i  vainly  attcinpling  to  burn   their 
bonds.     A   i  w   yards  off  a  hoary-headed  old 
ing     them     malevolently,    his 
.  a  I'lendish   grin    wrinkling   his 
withered  features.     So  intently  was  he  watch- 
in;:  hi^  i)g  victims  that  he  did  not  notice 
■'        J,......,,    until    too  late  for  lus    nefarious 

Then  Mac's  gun  exploded  angrily, 
and  when  the  smoke  cleared  away  the  ancient 
warrior  had  disappeared,  and  a  loud  wailing 
from    hcvond    thi     liill    intini;ited  that    the   can- 


nibal band  had  a  .second  time  taken  refuge  in 
flight. 

With  thankful  hearts  we  rescued  the  prisoners 
from  their  dangerous  predicament.  Our  oppor- 
tune arrival  had  undoubtedly  saved  their  lives. 
As  soon  as  possible  our  augmented  company 
returned  to  cam[),  where  we  duly  celebrated  the 
iiappy  climax  of  the  day's  adventure. 

Next  morning  my  party  continued  its  course 
northwards,  but  the  three  miners  decided  to 
betake  themselves  to  more  settled  latitudes, 
wliere  they  might  pursue  their  search  for  gold 
under  less  trying  conditions. 


xi'Lorikij  A\f;Mii.v.' 


(m,  MaqL£.od  RAmSk^ , , 

of-  Ue/i]?er,  Colorado. 


A  description  of  the  desperate  struggle 

now  going  on  between  the  cattle  and 

sheep  owners   of  the  Western    States 

for   the    right    to    use    the    public    pasture  -  lands.      Where  sheep  have   grazed    cattle    cannot    exist,  and 

therefore  the  "  cattle  kings  "  do  all  in  their  power  to  prevent  sheep  using  the  ranges.     The  result  is  a 

fierce  guerilla  warfare,    in  which   thousands  of  animals  and   scores  of  men  lose    their    lives    every   year. 

The  U.S.  Government  is  now  taking  steps  to  put  an  end  to  this  lamentable  state  of  affairs. 


r  seems  incredible,  but  it  is  never- 
theless strictly  true,  that  \\\  the 
United  States  there  should  [)e 
waging  a  private  war  more  destruc- 
tive to  life  than  are  the  l''ili[)inos' 
bullets  to  American  troops  in  the  campaign  now 
being  pushed  to  a  conclusion.  And  not  less 
strange  is  the  fact  that  this  sanguinary  inter- 
necine struggle  creates  no  special  interest  and 
no  comment  other  than  an  occasional  newspaper 
paragraph.  A  deadly  feud  for  the  use  of  the 
range,  or  c>pen  grazmg-ground,  is  in  progress 
between  the  cattle  and  sheep  owners  of 
Colorado,  \Vyoming,  New  Me.xico,  and  Arizcjna, 
and  to  pay  for  the  greed  of  these  magnates 
many  thou.sands  of  sheep,  hundreds  of  cattle, 
and  scores  of  brave  men  have  yielded  \.\\)  their 
lives  on  the  arid  gra/ing-lands  of  Western 
America.  Their  Ijones  lie  bleaching  in  the 
untem|)ered  sun  of  the  desert  as  an  evidence  of 
the  fact  that  sheep  ant!  cattle  <  annot  exi^t  side 
by  side. 

rime  was  when  the  interests  of  the  sheep  and 
cattle  men  did  not  conflict.  In  those  days 
settlers  were  few  and  the  range  was  large 
enough  for  both.  Jiut  now  the  conditions  have 
very  materially  changed.     The  small  ranchman 

Vol.  .\i.-26. 


has  pushed  his  way  into  the  country  and  taken 
up  claim  after  claim,  despite  the  most  vigorous 
oi)position  of  the  larger  owners.  To  them  the 
free,  open  range  was  a  vital  necessity  for  the 
feeding  of  their  large  herds  of  cattle,  since  it  is 
imi)erative  that  the  cattle  should  move  from 
place  to  i)lace  in  search  of  fresh  grazing-grounds. 
But  the  settler  would  not  be  denied.  ]'"very 
here  and  there  his  fences  rose  to  interfere  with 
the  wandering  cowboy,  and  gradually  the  range 
grew  restricted  to  the  (lovernnient  t^rest  re- 
serves and  contiguous  territory,  too  arid  or  too 
rough  for  successful  Ihrming.  Sheei)  and  cattle 
began  to  be  pushed  together  I)y  tlie  inroads 
of  civilization  until  the  grazing-lamls,  although 
still  vast  ai'cording  to  luiropean  standards, 
became  so  contracted  that  sheep  ami  cattle 
must  both  derive  their  sustenance  from  the  same 
territory.  If  the  method  of  feeding  had  been 
the  same  doubtless  some  adiustment  of  the 
difficulty  could  have  been  made,  but  sheep- 
gia/ing  is  .so  destructive  that  this  was  impossible. 
A  Hock  of  sheep,  moving  slowl)-  over  the  ground 
in  a  dense  mass,  not  only  cat  all  the  living 
vegetation  off  close  to  the  earth,  but  drive  the 
roots  into  the  ground  with  their  small,  sharp 
feet,  so  that  no  feed  will  grow  for  several  years, 


I'm:   WIPE  woKi.i)   mac; A/. INI-:. 


ruimiig   llic 


fmc   jiia/iiig-lands  on 


......  li  *uuic  have  been  wont  to  fatten.      Hence 

the  issue  arose  sijuarely  between   the  cattlemen 
and  the  sheepmen  as  to  which  shouUl  hold  the 
grazing  grounds,  which  really  belon;^  to  neither. 
It   was  not   to    be   expected    that  the  rough- 
riders  of  the  plains  would  ap|)eal  to  the  law  to 
•;Ie  their  difTerences,  especially  since   neither 
...u,  had  a  shadow  of  claim   to   legal  protection. 
riiey  took  the  standpoint  that   possession  was 
..•   iMjints   of  the   law  and   that   might    made 
_  it.       Accordingly     the    cattle  -  owners    drew 
.;.  ad  lines' across  the  disputed  territory,  and 
Iteyond  these  lines  it   was  uiulerstood   that  the 
'i'  <pn)en  were  not 
1 .1    br  i  ng    t  h  e  i  r 
rto<:ks.     The  sheep- 
iiK-iu  laim  that  these 

"  dead  lines  "   ha\ 

^  4/ 


tion  will  bring  a  storm  of  bullets  towards  them, 
and  therefore  they  are  content  to  remain 
(|uict  while  their  woolly  charges  are  waiituiily 
slaughtered  by  thousands  as  a  warning  to  other 
sheepmen.  llut  on  other  occasions  they 
show  fight,  only  to  be  shot  down  by  the 
cattlemen,  after  they  have  made  one  or  two 
of  their  assailants  bite  ttie  dust.  More 
rarely  they  are  shot  down  in  cold  blood  ;  or 
most  rarely  of  all  a  sheepherder  or  a  cattleman 
mysteriously  disappears.  Months  later  his 
bleaching  bones  may  be  found  in  the  desert  - 
the  sole  traces  of  some  tragic  ei)isode  in  this 
silent  but  relentless  warfare. 

It   is   when   the    sheep-owners    get   word 

of  a  proposed    raid  upon  their  flocks  and 

prepare  to  meet  violence  with  violence  that 

bloodshed    is    most    imminent. 

,'  Then  occurs  a  desperate  battle 


'r::m^: 


llOin  a\  VAST    HtKUS   Ol'    CA  11  l.lv   uUA-ilNG    ON    THE    KANGIiS. 


[r/ioio. 


icroached    more    and    more 
upon     11k  11    icinlury.     'I'hey    refused  to  accept 

''"      ■■?'!•'       '.f    'I 'ilriucn    as     to    where 

•  ind   as   a  result   there 

of  ihc  tierccsi   kind.      That   the 

'  iter   is   due   to   tin- 

,     being    few    and 

vc  nol  txcn  able  to  make  an  effectual 

•ift     riding,     well  -  armed 

ige.      It  takes  only  one  or 

two  men  to  care  for  tlniuvnnds  of  shcef),  so  that 

.  on  11  bent,  descend 

'  "    "  ''■  ■  '  s   stand   aside 

""'    ^^"'l'    «!'  .  Mil    any   active 

'  iiey  know  that  the  least  provoca 


such  as  the  wild  Western  frontier  alone  can 
witness.  Men  die  gamely  "  with  lluir  boots  on," 
as  the  cowboy  phrase  goes,  to  the  sound  of  the 
cracking  rille  and  the  sna|)ping  six-shooter. 
When  the  smoke  of  the  conflict  clears  away 
.scarce  one  of  the  combatants  l)ut  bears  marks  of 
wounds,  for  a  battle  between  ^^■estern  frontiers- 
men is  a  furious  encounter,  ft)ught  as  long  as 
the  men  can  stand  or  see  or  shoot,  sometimes 
finished  e\en  when  the  combatants  are  lying  on 
the  ground  wounded  or  dying. 

A  few  months  ago  one  hundred  thousand 
sheep  were  moved  across  the  "dead  line"  that 
had  been  drawn  by  the  settlers  and  cattlemen  of 
Western  Wvoming.  The  cattlemen  prom|  tly 
raided  ilic  ilocks  and  destroyed  waggons  and 
sheep  to  the  value  of  twenty  thousand  dollars, 
while  the  hertlers  were  disarmed  and  warned  to 
leave  the  country  within  a  few  hours  on  penalty 


TMK     RAXCE 


WAR. 


U'voiDing 
tiraziiig 


A     TVl' 

1-toin  a 


of  clc-ath  111  ciM'  tlu'V  evt-r  rLluiiK-d.     Tlial  same 

inoiitli  nofcwiT  than  iwrlvc  tlu^iisaiul  .sln.(|)  were 

massacred  near  North  Roi  k   Springs,  Wyoming. 

'riie  animals  were  shot  and   chihbed  to  death, 

and  thousands  of  tliein  were  (hiveii  l)y  hands  of 

yelling    cow  punchers 

over  a  preci[)ice.    One 

methoti  ol  getting  rid 

of  the  shee|)  in  some 

parts   ot    the   country 

is  to  staltcr  blue  \it- 

riol  about  their  fjeil- 

mg     ground.       The 

sheep  devour  this  lor 

salt  and  soon  perish. 

There  are  extensive 
cattle    interests   in 
Routt  County,  Color- 
ado.     Of    late    the 
sheepmen  have  begun 
to    drive    their   flocks 
across    the 
line    to    that   c, 
ground,    and,    in 
consequ  c  n  c  e, 
several      pitched 
battles    have    re- 
sulted, the  sheep- 
men  being  de- 
feated.as  is  usual. 
One  Cheyenne 
firm     alone     lost 
two  thou.sand  five 
hundred     sheep, 

which  were  driven  to  the  mountains  by  cattle- 
men to  be  devoured  by  coyotes,  wolves,  and 
mountain  lion.s.  A  Laramie  owner  lost  his 
flock  in  almost  the  same  manner,  while  one 
from  Sheridan  had  a  large  flock  entirely  de- 
stroyed by  dynamite  tossed  among  the  browsing 
animals  by  the  genial  cow-punchers. 

Sometimes  the  sheep-owners  fight  desperately 
to  hold  their  own.  A  notable  instance  is  that 
of  "Criff "  1-^dwards,  a  plucky  flockmaster  who 
attempted  to  beat  the  "punchers"  at  their  own 
game.  In  one  season,  however,  he  lost  over 
fourteen  thousand  of  his  finest  sheep.  He  him- 
self, after  a  plucky  fight,  was  captured,  tied  to  a 
tree,  and  forced  to  witness  the  slaughter  of  his 
choice  flocks  by  a  band  of  masketl  cowboys. 
After  this  heartrending  ex|)erience  he  gave  up 
the  fight  and  moved  to  Eastern  Oregon. 

Year  by  year  the  fight  grows  more  desperate, 
and  at  la.st  the  United  States  (lovernment  is 
beginning  to  take  a  hand  in  this  terrible  game 
of  grab.  Colonel  John  Mosby,  a  noted  Con- 
federate officer  of  cavalry,  has  been  specially 
sent  out  to  suppress,  if  possible,  this  sanguinary 
war,  which  entails  the  sacrifice  of  many  scores 


of  li\es  every  year.  His  special  duty  is  to 
clear  the  Ciovernmenl  land  of  the  fences  which 
have   been   put  up   by  the    large   cattle-owners, 

who     ha\e     enclosed 
\        *  large  tracts  of  grazing- 

■;  land    and     forbidden 

the  .settlers  to  touch 
this  arbitrarily  re- 
served territory.  The 
cattle  kings  are  thus 
making  themselves 
wealthy  at  the  expense 
of  Uncle  Sam  and  in 
flagrant  defiance  of 
his  laws.  Near  Ster- 
ling, Colorado,  one 
large  company  built  a 
fence  enclosing  about 
twenty-five  thousand 
acres  of  land,  the 
tract  extending  from 
the  Union  Pacific 
Railroad  to  the  15ur- 
linuton  Railroad 
fences.  Immense 
herds  of  cattle  were 
kept  in  this  vast  tri- 
angular enclosure, 
regardless  of  the 
ordinances  which 
prohibit  the  fencing  of  public  lands. 

Colonel  Mosby  i)romplly  ordered  the  corpora- 


IC.M.        COW-PUNCMliK       (IFITINi; 
KtADV    FOK    ACllO.N.         [J'/lOtO. 


OiLONhl.    lOII.V    MdSltV,  WHO    HAS    (IF.EV    SHECIALI  V  DF.TAlI.En    BV 

rilK     U.S.     (.OVEKNMENT   TO   SL'ITKESS    IHE    WAK    ON     I  HE    KANGFS. 

/<■<>/«  a  Photo. 


rin:   wide   wori  d   mac.azini:. 


Ittlcr. 


take    duwii   llicir   icin.o.      h 
;    at    111''   iriicr-,   lidwcver,    dc- 
that    li  inst   fencing 

lands  was  u  dead 
Hut    the  colonel 
has  ihe  Government   at 
the   back   of    hun,    and 
from   the  Canadian   line 
to    'le\a:»   the    calllenicn 
arc     iHrginning     to    get 
r   the  jjer- 
uthorities. 
■sevelt  has 
hnnsclt  dc«  bred  that  the       \ 
fences  must  come  down, 
and    \shen    he    sets    his 
mind  on  anything  he  is 
apt  to  '  -  way. 

For  I. I  part  the  cattlemen 

of    the    West,    both   owners    and 

•*p  , "  are  a  manly  lot,  even 

th<'  V  are  hasty  and  reckless 

to!  .:  of  cruelty.     But  lately 

tliere  has  entered  into  the  fight  an  element  of 

•'    t   is  worthy  of  the   Hurgias  tlieni 

I        i.ired  assiissiii  has  appeared  on  the 

not  once  or  twice,  tnit  a  dozen  times  at 

least.       He   has   crept   through   the   long  grass 

towarti-  '''-  '"■••y  and  has  shot  down  the  defence- 

li>>    s!:  I    at   the   orders   of   his    masters. 

Thi-re  are  ugly  charges  afloat  against  some  of  the 


From  a  \ 


A    SHKEI'MAN    WATCHINi;    IMS    Ft.OCKS. 


I  II     Till',    \l  Al.l.liN 
•IS    I  Ml  lU  lll>MI'. 

;    ,.     I 'I:.    ',■, 


most  prominent  cattlemen  on  the  range,  to  the 
effect  that  they  are  employing  hired  assassins  to 
kill  men  whom  they  suspect  of  being  "rustlers."' 
Tom  Horn,  a  noted  scout  and  Indian  lighter 
under  (lenerals  Miles  and  C'rook,  lies  in  prison 
at  Cheyenne  convicted  of  the  murder  of  a  lad 
named  Willie  Nickell,  the  son  of  a  settler  who 
had  incurred  the  enmity  of  some  of  the  big 
cat  tie  kings.  Horn  later  boasted 
that  he  luid  slain  several  (Mher 
parties  at  so  inucli  a  head,  paid 
him  bv  a  certain  prominent  cattle 
company,  which  desired  to  get  rid  of 
its  enemies.  He  took  all  the  pre- 
cautions of  a  professional  murderer  to 
esca[)e  any  ])ossible  risk  of  detection, 
and  tl'.en,  with  the  recklessness  of  a 
(hiiiiken  i(jwl)oy,  boasted  during  a 
saloon  debauch  of  what  he  had  done. 
The  whole  cattle  country  was  stirred 
lo  its  depths  during  the  Horn  trial. 
Ihreats  of  death  were  freely  made 
against  any  witness  ]-iresumptuoiis 
enough  to  testify  against  I  lorn  or  any 
juror  with  sufficienl  leiiK  ril\-  to  bring 
in  a  verdict  of  guiity.  On  the  other 
hand,  it  was  staled  almost  openly  that 
in  case  Horn  was  ac<iuilted  he  would 
be  lynt  ht'd  witlujul  ceremony.  The 
law,  however,  has  triumphed  in  this 
case  so  far,  ami  all  good  <ili/ens  are 
hoping  that  it  may  proNe  a  forerunner 
of  tlu'  linal  end  of  iIh'  disastrous 
range  war. 


Odds    and    Ends. 


A    New    Zealand    School    Treat  —  On    Fire    in    the    Suez    Canal — A    Drought  -  Stricken 

Landscape,    etc.,    etc. 


t_H|[.l>Kfc.N     IN     NKW     /lAIAMJ    i.'M^ 


RATH 
ling  is 
graph, 
scliool 
being 
conveyed  to  a 
p  i  c  n  i  c  i  n  two 
trucks,  drawn  by 
a  traction  engine. 
'IVaction  engines 
are  very  largely 
used  in  New 
/ealaml  fur  eon 
veying  lieavy 
loads  of  timber, 
produce,  etc.,  and, 
although  they 
niyy  at  first  sight 
appear  somewhat 
cumbrous,  they 
are  really  most 
useful.  T  h  f 
children  were 
not  slow  to  ap 
predate  this 
curious     iikxIl- 


ER  novel  mode  of  travel- 
shown  in  the  above  photo- 
which  depicts  a  party  of 
children     in     New    Zealand 


of     locomotion,     and    enjoyed      their    journey 
hugelv. 

I'^nthusiaslic  amateur  gardeners  will  be  inte- 
rested in  the  little  photograph  here  reproduced, 

and  will  sigh  for 
the  climatic  con- 
ditions which  can 
produce  beautiful 
lilooms  in  such 
prodigal  profu- 
s  i  o  n  .  r  h  e 

photograph  shows 
a  field  of  nar- 
cissi near  the 
village  of  Cilion, 
in  Switzerland, 
where  the  charm- 
ing flowers  grow 
([uite  wild,  filling 
tile  air  with  their 
p  e  r  (u  m  e  and 
m  a  k  i  n  g  the 
ground  look  in 
the  distance  as 
though  covered 
with  snow. 


■rm-:   \\ii»i:   \\()Ri.i>   mac.a/ink 


/■  1  jii:  ,1 1 


OIL   bItAMl-.U    ON     I  11C1-,    I.N     lilt.    >Ll:/.    CA.NAU 


1  /  Vle/C. 


'I'he  above  photo;^raph  shows  a  remarkable 
marine  c  "le.    The  Sliell  Line  s.s. /j/z/rj-jv^- 

ha\ing    n urc  in   the  Jiitter   Lake.s  whilst 

|»assing  through  the  Suez  Canal,  it  was  decided 

to  lighten  her  of  part 

of     her    cargo,    which 

consisted  of  |jetroleuni. 

Her    sister    ship,    the 

J\'ffi/f,    was    therefore 

|)ut  alongside  to  receive 

about  a  thousand  tons, 

the  oil  being  pumped 


it. 


.ik. 


•I  a  I  Com 
ML'      /'n>- 
V  stage 
.  how- 
found 
Ung  into  the 
1    of    the 
•  aptain 
gave 
K-  fur- 
hed. 
d    be 
' aught 
amer 

front 


II. f    I, 


possible  to  do  aii)thing  to  save  her.  The  captain 
and  crew  mannged  to  get  awayfrcaii  the  burning 
ship  in  safety,  but  lost  everytliing  they  had. 
Our  next  photograph  depicts  two  distin- 
guished professors  of 
a  refreshingly  novel 
school  of  medicine,  the 
members  of  which  take 
their  own  prescriptions. 
The  estimable  couple 
here  seen  are  Yanda 
Kinmath  and  his  wife, 
the  doctors  of  the  Tahl 
Tan  Indians  of  Ikitish 
Columbia.  Unlike  the 
physicians  of  civiliza 
tion,  who  compel  their 
patients  to  swallow 
nauseating  mixtures, 
these  obliging  medicos 
undertake  to  cure 
their  patients  by  tak- 
ing the  medicine 
themselves,  only  allot- 
ting to  till-  Mifferers  the 
discomfort  of  liearing 
the  musical  strains  of 
tom-tom  drums  every 
n'ghi  during  their  in- 
dis|)osi  t  ion.  The 
couple  seem  to  lof)k 
pielly  healthy  in  s])ite 
of  the  weird  concoc- 
tions they  are  <om- 
pelled  U)  take  in  the 
interests  of  their 
clients.      It  is  probable 


.l)IA\       '  llflCroWS  ■'  — THKV 

AKiNc;    riiK  MKDiiiM.    nil-; 
/■roiii  ,j   /■//,■  ■ 


liNDlId  AKI-. 

:m  I  V  I s  I 


ODDS     .WD     IADS. 


J07 


Tins    l.MPKESSIVE    ILLL'>TKATIO.V   SHOWS 

From  a  Photo,  by  | 


im;    i;a\ages  ok    dkouchi   im  the    darling 

ALSTKALIA. 


that  their  "professional  brethren'  ni  this  country 
would  vote  their  conduct  decidedly  unpro- 
fessional and  nTegular.  Our  photograph  was 
taken  at  I'ort  Wrangel,  Alaska. 

People    in    this    country   have   heard  a  great 
deal  of  the  terrible  and  long  sustained  drouglit 
from  which  nearly  all  Australia  has  been  su.Ter 
ing.     They  have  read  in 
their    newspapers     of 
countless    tliousands     of 
sheep    and    cattle    dying 
for  want  ol    pasture  and 
water,  and  of  vast  area.-. 
of    once    fertile    country 
whicii  ha\e  now  become 
barren  and  sun-scorched 
deserts.     The     iiluslra 


herds  of  (at  callle, 
speaks  elo(|uently 
of  the  magnitude 
ol  the  disaster. 
So  severe  has  been 
the  drought  in  this 
region  that  until 
the  recent  rain- 
showers  some  ani- 
mals nearly  four 
years  old  had 
never  once  had 
their  hides  wetted  ! 
'Ihose  who  have 
had  the  opportu- 
nity of  .seeing  a 
shark  at  close 
quarters — say  from 
the  deck  of  a  shi[j 
in  harbour  —  will 
have  noticed  that 
it  is  not  only  loath- 
some in  appear- 
ance, but  has  a 
peculiar,  revolting 
smell.  That  any- 
body could  pos- 
sibly regard  shark 
flesh  as  a  tasty  addition  to  the  menu  seems 
strange  indeed.  Nevertheless,  in  Corea  the 
shark  is  highly  esteemed  as  an  article  of  diet, 
and  in  many  towns  on  the  coast  the  shark 
market  is  a  regular  institution.  The  ac- 
companying photograph  was  taken  at  Fusan, 
and  shows  a   number  of  young  sharks  exposed 


DOWNS     DISTRICT   O!' 

UV.  P.  Ed7vanh. 


tion     tiiveii 


a  bo 


ve    win 


enable  \\'iI)K  W'okii' 
readers  to  realize  some- 
thing of  this  heartrending 
state  of  affairs.  The 
photograph  was  taken  in 
the  drought-stricken 
regions  of  the  Darling 
Downs,  and  the  weird 
landscape  of  dead  and 
leafless  trees  and  bar 
ren,  burned-up  pastures, 
doited  wilii  the  remains 
of  what   were   once    finr 


tolo.  ■•) 


!OS 


I  111.    W  Ihl.    WOKl.D    MAC.A/.lNl". 


■>M0f.' 


Liroiiiul  f;ir  below,  but  the 
first  passenger  coach  hung 
poised,  lialf  on  and  half  ofl 
the  bridge.  The  picture 
shows  the  car  hanging  on 
the  edge,  and  indicates 
Avhat  an  ai)pallingly  narrow 
escape  from  death  the 
passengers  had.  Curiously 
enough,  although  the  catas- 
trophe was  of  such  an  alarm- 
ing nature  and  the  rolling- 
stock  was  completely 
wrecked,  it  happened  that 
onlv  one  person  was  killed 
— an  unfortunate  Indian 
who  was  stealing  a  ride 
on  the  top  of  one  of  the 
freight  cars. 


{•ram  a  l'hcti.<. 

f«»r   sale    in     tlic    market-i)lace    of 
ihat  town. 

A   curious   fog    phenonien(jn     is 
next   illustrated.     Uigby  Basin,  on 
the    south  -  west    coast    of     Nova 
.Srotia,  is  almost   always  free  from 
f>„'.    whereas   the    Hay   of    I'undy, 
to  which   is  obtained   from 
liic     i;.isin    l)y    a    narrow    passage 
known  as  I>igby  (iap,  is  hardly  ever 
without  dense  mists.     The  vapour 
•  nttis   the  (iap,  and    there    slops 
1    ••  .t......i,    hcUl    back     by 

1   invisible    hand. 

the    bank    oi    fog    lying    in    the 

'       '■     '      f'lap  is   well    shown 

'gtaph.      A     traveller 

I  )iiibv    by 


api 


thick  tuj; 


IIK 


itui 
■jicoine 


steamer 
of  sensa- 

-lightest 

from 

clear    air 

as   it    is 


'■ou)|)anyii)p    photograph 
"f   ihf   Temne 


1.. 
Ar 
mi 


|»r. 


and 


i"""i    I'JKenix, 

after    a 

passenger   train 

over     it.       .\ 

'^ave  way  and 

'I   the   engine  and  three 

river   bed   below. 

■   n  1 1 II  III  III  I       The 

the 


A    MAkV  HI  I.OtlS     KSCAIK  —    I  IIK     TKMIF     IlKIDCP.,     IN      ARIZONA,    <;AVK    WAV   JUM     AS   A 
IKAIS    WAS    Cl<"^>>IS<i,    I  HI-;    FIK'-I     lASM.Ni.KK    CAH    IIKING    LEFT  I'OISEIJ,   IIAl-K    ON    AND 

HAI  I-    OKK    THE    IIKIDCE, 
htoiii  a  I'hoto.  l>y  H arHvcll  mid  llaiiiakcr,  f'/urnix. 


■     "1      I  UK    KNI)   OI-    0\K    OF    THESE    PIPES." 

(SEB    PA(;E   212.) 


Tun  Win  I'  World  Magazine. 


Vol.  .\I. 


JULY,     1903. 


No.  63. 


/(  jhottsand    JYtiles  in  a  JlGfrioerafor. 

By  Raii'Ii  Stdck. 

An  out-of-the-way  experience  which  befell   a  young  "  tenderfoot  "  while  on  his  way  home   to  England. 

Not  being  overburdened  with  cash,  he  decided  to  travel  across  Canada  free  by  stowing  himself  away  on  a 

freight  train.     Thereupon  followed  an  adventure  which  nearly  ended  in  a  double  tragedy. 


ll.\l)  very  little  money  with  ir.e 
when  I  landed  at  Montreal  ;  in  fact, 
I  may  as  well  be  honest,  I  had  ex- 
actly twenty-five  dollars  {i\\e  pounds) 
^  when  I  started  on  my  wanderings, 
and  it  only  goes  to  show  how  a  young  man, 
possessed  of  a  fairly  good  physique  and  a 
rather  limited  amount  of  brains,  can  push 
along  in  the  Colonies  when 
I  say  that  with  that  five 
pounds,  and  steadfastly  re- 
fusing all  monetary  help 
from  home,  I  travelled 
the  greater  part  of  the 
country  from  Montreal 
to  the  other  side  of  the 
Rockies  and  back,  land- 
ing in  England  with  a 
good  deal  more  than  I 
started  with, 
both  of  money 
and  experience, 
after  a  tho- 
roughly enjoy- 
able, though 
rough,  journey. 


"the  work  was  hard  and  rough." 
Vol.  xi.— 27. 


The  end  of  October  found  me  in  a  small 
mining  and  saw-mill  town  of  three  years'  growth 
situated  in  the  Rocky  Mountains,  working  in 
the  "  bush  "  at  forty  dollars  a  month  and  board 
— of  a  sort.  The  work  was  hard  and  rough,  but 
sleep  had  far  more  unpleasantness  for  me  than 
work,  perhaps  owing  to  the  fact  that  during  the 
three  weeks  I  stayed   there  I  slept,  or,  rather, 

tried  to,  between  a  burly 
negro  and  a  greasy  Italian 
of  the  barrel-organ  type  ot 
London. 

But  lumber-camp  life  is 
not  to  be  lingered  over  in 
writing  ;  it    is   quite    suffi- 
cient   to    have    lived    it. 
Suffice   It    to  say  that    by 
this  time  I  was  beginning 
to  wonder  if  life  was  really 
worth  living — a  sure  sign 
of  home-sickness.    Add  to 
this  a  somewhat  severe  at- 
tack of  illness  caused   by 
sleeping    in    wet    clothes, 
and    an    overpowering 
desire  to  live  once  more 
like    a    civilized     human 
being,  and    you   have  my 
reason    for    throwing    up 
the  whole  thing  and  com- 
ing home  for  a  holiday. 
It   was    the    manner  ot 
my  home-coming  that  more  par- 
ticularly affects    this   narrative. 
I  had  saved  a  little  money,  but 
what  was   the   use  of  spending 
my   entire    savings    on    getting 
i»/  home,    and    perhaps    being 

,g^  stranded    half-way  with  insuffi- 

cient means  to  proceed  ?  I 
was  pondering  the  situation  as 
I  strolled  into  town  the  next  night  with  my 
worldly  belongings  in  a  grain-sack  slung  on 
my  back  when,  on  crossing  the  railway  track  at 
the  station  to  get  to  a  boarding  house  on  the 
opposite  side,  I  passed  what  at  home  is  called 
a  truck,  belonging  to  a  freight  train  awaiting  an 
engine  to  carry  it  eastward. 


212 


THE    WIDE     WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


Lying  the  entire  length,  and  resting  on  the 
edge  at  one  end  of  this  truck,  were  three  long 
iron  pipes  about  two  feet  in  diameter.  There 
was  nothing  ver>'  extraordinary  in  this,  but,  as  I 
was  about  to  move  on,  a  head  appeared  out  of 
the  end  of  one  of  these  pipes,  and  a  voice  with 
an  unmistakable  Western  accent  inquired 
genially,  "  Got  a  chew,  governor  ?  " 

Trying  not  to  look  surprised  (it  never  does  to 
show  surprise  at  anything  in  the  West),  I  re- 
marked that  I  could  oblige  him,  whereupon  six 
feet  of  ragged  "  hobo  " — i.e.,  a  tramp — squeezed 
itself  out  of  the  opening,  jumped  down  on  to 
the  track  beside  me,  and  relieved  me  of  half  a 
good  plug  of  "Bobs"  chewing  tobacco.  My 
curiosity  was  aroused. 

*'  What  on  earth  are  you  doing  in  there?"  I 
asked. 

••  Goin'  way  down  to  Winnipeg,"  he  answered, 
in  a  tone  that  seemed  to  express  surprise  at  the 
(jucstion. 

"  But  why  in  a  pipe  ?  "  I  asked,  innocently. 

"  Have  you  never  beat  your  way  anywheres?" 
he  replied,  looking  at  me  in  evident  contempt, 
an  attitude  all  \Vesterners  assume  when  they 
sec  they  have  a  "greeny"  to  deal  with.  "By 
the  looks  of  you  I  should  a  thought  you'd  done 
|)lenty  of  it  yerself." 

At  first  I  felt  inclined  to  take  this  as  an  insult, 
but  I  remembered  in  time  what  my  outer  man 
consisted  of  -a  leather  jacket  and  ragged  blue 
linen  trousers. 

"  You  see,  there's  no  use  in  payin'  four  cents  a 
ntile  in  a  passenger  when  you  can  travel  just  as 
comfortable  for  nothin',"  he  continued,  more 
amiably.  "  Look  at  this  now,"  pointing  with 
|)ride  to  the  three  pijjcs  ;  "  I'm  in  the  first  pipe, 
my  clothes  in  the  second,  and  my  food  in  the 
third.     I've  never  paid  a  train  fare  yet." 

An  idea  struck  me.  "  You  say  this  car  is 
g<iing  to  Winnipeg  ?  "   I  asked. 

"  Look  at  the  label  for  yourself." 

I  •  xamined  the  little  green  card.  Sure  enough. 
It  was  labelled  U'inni|)eg.      Here  was  a  chance. 

"  Do  you  think  there's  room  for  me  on  this 
outfit?"  I  imjuired,  intending  the  question  as  a 
gentle  hint  for  n»y  new  acfjuaintance  to  let  me 

;py    (Hie   of   his    pipes.       But    the   Western 

1     is    evidently    dense    (when     necessary). 

•'Waal,   I'll  tell  you,"  he  said,  leaning  towards 

me   and    whispering    confidentially   in    my  ear. 

"This  train's  'bout    the  best  I  ever  struck  for 

•»)calinV  and   it's  fair  full  of  men,  though,  of 

I  oursr,  you  ran't  see  'em.     See  that  box-car  full 

of  coal  ?      Well,  it   isn't  full.       [ust  U])  at  the 

top  there's  a  hole  thnt's  been  made  by  ihrowin' 

o'  the  coal  out  on  the  line,  and  there's  a 

>aw  him  gel  in  myself     See  that 

I  liit.V   ri    rn  m    in  tin-    middle 


of  that,  cos  he  came  over  and  asked  me  for  a 
chew.  An'  there's  one  goin'  to  work  his  way 
down  helpin'  the  stoker,  but  I  pity  him  ;  I've 
had  some.  But  to  my  mind  the  best  place  in 
the  whole  outfit  has  been  left  out,  and  I  had  a 
mind  to  give  up  my  present  quarters  for  it,  and 
that's  the  refrigerator." 

It  sounded  chilly,  I  thought. 

"It's  empty,  you  know,"  he  added,  seeming 
to  read  my  thoughts.  "I'll  take  you  down  and 
show  you." 

He  led  the  way  along  the  track  as  un- 
concernedly as  though  he  were  strolling  down 
Regent  Street.  "  It  doesn't  do  to  hurry,  or  they 
see  you're  trying  to  hide  yourself,"  he  explained. 

"  There  you  are,"  he  said  at  last,  pointing  to 
the  huge  box-car,  which  had  apparently  no 
opening  save  the  big  door  in  the  centre,  always 
kept  locked.  "  You  climb  in  through  a  '  heap ' 
in  the  top." 

"  Have  you  got  any  money  ? "  he  asked, 
suddenly. 

I  wondered  what  was  coming  next,  and  un- 
consciously put  my  hand  on  my  breast-pocket. 

"  Don't  put  it  there,"  he  said,  noticing  the 
action  ;  "  put  it  in  yer  sock.  There's  not  much 
chance  of  you  bein'  caught ;  but  if  you  are  it's 
chances  they'll  sneak  every  cent  on  you.  You'd 
better  go  and  get  some  grub  and  then  come 
right  along  here,  and  I'll  help  you  in." 

I  thanked  him  and  retired  to  the  boarding- 
house  that  had  been  my  original  goal.  I'here  I 
had  a  parcel  of  bread  and  meat  made  up  suf- 
ficient to  last  three  days,  and  wended  my  way 
back  to  the  freight  train  with  as  nonchalant  a 
manner  as  I  could  assume. 

My  adviser  was  waiting  for  me,  and  after  a 
hasty  glance  round  climbed  up  the  little  iron 
ladder  that  is  to  be  found  at  the  back  of  every 
car  for  the  convenience  of  the  brakesman.  I 
soon  joined  Iiim  on  the  roof,  and  with  our 
united  strength  the  little  padlock  of  the  trap — 
which  was,  of  course,  locked— gave  way,  and  it 
came  up  easily  enough.  Now,  however,  came 
another  task,  rather  more  difificult.  Underneath 
this  outer  trap  of  boards  was  a  heavy  zinc- 
covered  lid  about  four  inches  thick,  fitting  closely 
into  the  opening,  which  was  also  lined  with  zinc. 
This,  of  course,  was  intended  to  keep  the  cold 
air  in  when  the  chamber  was  full  of  ice  and  the 
van  below  filled  with  meat.  However,  after  a 
good  pull  this  also  gave  way  with  a  rushing 
sound  not  unlike  the  drawing  of  a  cork. 

"  Now,  then,  in  you  get,"  commanded  my 
com])anion  ;  "the  engine  may  come  along  any 
time  now."  There  was  no  use  in  hesitating,  so 
I  let  myself  boldly  down  into  the  hole,  which 
proved  to  be  two  feet  deep. 

"  Are  you  set  ?  "  came  the  voice  from  above. 


A     11K)LSAN1J    MILLS    h\    A    RLFRIGLRAlOR. 


213 


"  Ves,"  I  answered,  and  the  zinc  lid  shot 
down  into  its  [)lare  with  a  dull  "  sog  "  that  sent 
a  shiver  througli  me. 

It  was  (juite  dark,  and  I  was  crawling  slowly 
along  the  side  of  the  car  when  I  stumbled  into 
something  soft  and  alive.  For  a  moment  it 
gave  me  quite  a  turn,  but  I  was  soon  re- 
assured. 

"Who  you  pushin',  stranger  ?"  came  a  voice 
out  of  the  darkness.  It  was  a  fellow-passenger, 
and  I  heaved  a  sigh  of  relief. 

*'  What  you  doin'  in  here,  anyway  ? "  he  in- 
(]uired,  after  an  embarrassing  pause. 

"Much  the  same  sort  of  thing  as  yoursel'f," 
I  replied. 

"  CiOt  a  chew  ?  "     The  inevitable  query. 

I  handed  my  last  plug  into  the  darkness,  and 
it  disappeared  with  alacrity,  to  return  in  a 
moment  minus  a  fair-sized  corner.  My  com- 
panion was  evidently  not  a  conversationalist,  for 
we  sat  in  silence  for  quite  half  an  hour,  and  I 
began  to  wonder  if  the  engine  was  ever  coming, 
when  suddenly  a  terrific  jolt  shook  the  car  and 
landed  me  nearly  into  the  lap  of  my  fellow- 
passenger.  The  engine  had  arrived.  I  heard 
a  whistle,  unusually  muffled,  and  a  faint  pufifing 
that  seemed  to  be  very  far  off,  and  the  next 
moment,  with  many  jolts  and  jars,  we  had 
started  on  our  strange  journey. 

"They'll  be  at  Mitchell  in  a  few  hours," 
volunteered  my  companion,  after  another  lengthy 
pause. 

"  How  long  will  they  stay  there?  "  I  asked. 

"  Long   enough   to    shunt   off  the    cars    they 


don't  want  and   for   us   to  get  a  breath  of  fresh 
air,  anyway." 

"  Do  you  mean  to  say  you're  going  to  get 
out  there  ?  "  I  asked,  in  surprise. 

"  Why  not  ?  It'll  be  dark,  and  I've  only  got 
two  sausages  and  a  bit  of  bread  to  last  me  down 
to  Winnipeg.  Besides,  we  must  get  some  fresh 
air." 

"  Do  you  mean  this  hole  is  air-tight  ? "  I 
demanded,  a  creepy  sensation  stealing  over  me 
at  the  very  thought. 

"  How  do  you  suppose  they  keep  the  cold  air 
in  when  it's  full  of  ice  ? ''  was  the  abrupt  reply 

A  sudden  purely  imaginary  sen.sation  of 
stufifiness  came  upon  me,  for,  considering  that 
we  had  not  been  in  the  box  two  hours,  it  could 
be  nothing  more. 

"  Let's  have  a  breather  now,"  I  suggested. 

"  Can't ;  the  brakesman  might  see  us.  He's 
got  a  window  in  the  van  that  looks  all  along  the 
top  of  the  cars." 

"What's  the  fine  if  we're  caught?"  I 
inquired,  thirsting  for  information  as  well  as 
fresh  air. 

"  Six  months,  unless  you  can  get  the  brakes- 
man to  accept  a  dollar  or  two.  You  can't 
expect  to  travel  a  thousand  odd  miles  for  nothing 
without  some  sort  of  risk." 

Visions  of  a  luxurious  Pullman  or  even  a 
more  humble  colonist  car  came  before  me,  but 
I  felt  the  lump  of  paper  in  my  sock  and  my 
heart  was  refreshed.  My  reflections  were  cut 
short  by  another  jolt  that  again  precipitated  me 
against  my  companion. 

"  Mitchell,  I  guess,"  he  exclaimed,  and 
crawled  past  me.     I  heard  hard  breathing  and 

the  sound  as  of  someone 
straining  against  a  heavy 
weight. 


"  This  thing's  got 
kind  of  stiff,"  gasped 
my  fellow  "  beater  "  ; 
but  the  next  minute, 


iHis  thing'.s  got  kind  of  stiff,'  gasi'f,d  my  fellow 

'  HEATER.'  " 


>I4 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


with  the  same  sickening  "  sog,"  the  heavy  zinc 
lid  gave  way  to  the  burly  "  hobo's  "  back  and 
flew  open,  pushing  the  outer  trap  with  it, 
exposing  a  black,  star-spangled  sky. 

When  my  fellow-passenger  had  climbed  out 
an'  '  iiearcd  I  thrust  my  head  through  the 
op'-.-  „  -iiid  drew  in  deep  breaths  of  the  fresh, 
clear  air.  About  half  an  hour  elapsed,  during 
which  the  train  was  shunted  backwards  and 
forwards  in  the  usual  apparently  aimless  fashion 
to  which  freight  trains  are  addicted,  throwing 
me  hither  and  thither  like  a  shuttlecock.  At 
last,  however,  we  appeared  to  be  ready,  and 
the  engine  gave  forth  a  shrill  whistle.  I  was 
beginning  to  fear  that  my  fellow-passenger  would 
be  too  late,  when  a  head  appeared  over  the  edge 
of  the  car. 

The  "  hobo  "  was  evidently  in  a  hurry,  for  he 
ran  up  the  ladder  like  a  cat,  and,  crouching  low, 
he  made  a  dash  for  the  trap,  which  I  held  in 
readiness. 

**  Hrakesman  coming  down  the  line  ;  don't 
think  he  saw  me,"  he  whispered,  hurriedly, 
and,  snatching  the  trap  from  my  hand,  jumped 
down  into  the  car,  letting  both  trap  and  lid  fall 
simultaneou.sly  into  place  with  unusual  violence. 

We  were  soon  lost  in  the  solid  enjoyment  of 
munching  bread  and  meat  and  washing  it  down 
with  the  contents  of  a  bottle  which  my  com- 
|>ai)ion  prcMJuced  from  somewhere,  so  we  were 
thoroughly  warm  and  comfortable.  The  next 
slop  was  Crow's  Nest  Pass,  and  after  that  I  fell 
asleep  with  my  grain  sack  as  a  pillow.  After  a 
month  of  life  on  the  prairie,  with  no  roof  above 
you  except  Nature's  and  a  saddle  for  a  pillow, 
this  is  (juitc  possible.  I  haven't  the  least  idea 
hn''  'I  ■  i|  in  this  blissful  condition  ;  I 
oiii  le  fust  thing  I  noticed  on  wak 

ing  was  that  the  atmosj)here  was  decidedly  stuffy 

"  Arc  you  there,  pard  ? "  I  called  into  the 
(l.irkiiess. 

"  W.ial,  1  don't  know  where  else  I'd  be  con 
'  that  this  blamed  trap's  stuck,"  came  the 

r  thought  the  man  was  joking.     IIrh 
'  I   that   Westerners    never   played 

V  '  'ir  linn:  being  too  much  taken 

"'  ' -•  of  the  clammy  "greenbacks  " 

vv  of  such  divcr.sions.  I  crawled  to  the 
cnvi  .,f  ilu-  ear,  felt  for  the  tra[),  and  then, 
putting  my  bi' '■  •:■•.  it,  press(<l  with  all  my 
Mrength.      If  Iweii  ih.-  solid  roui  for 

•'••'  ''i^"  •'•'  I   could  make.     I  thought  a 

'  ■      '  '■  '^ut   o.  •  I,  "So  it  is  !"  and 

'tiinl.  .1.  t.  tt.,ii,,.,J  not  to 


I  no  remark 

I  her?"  I  suggested, 

natter  of  fact  tone. 


in  what  I 


"  Can't ;  there  isn't  room  for  both  our  backs 
in  that  opening." 

"Couldn't  we  cut  our  way  out  through  the 
side  ?  " 

"  Got  a  knife  ?  " 

"  No." 

"  Neither  have  I." 

"  What  on  earth  are  we  to  do  ?"  I  burst  out, 
in  desperation. 

"  Wait  till  the  next  stop  and  give  ourselves 
away,  I  guess,"  was  the  cheerful  response. 

"When  is  the  next. stop?" 

"  Look  here,  stranger ;  do  you  suppose  a 
'  freight '  goes  by  a  time-table  ?  How  do  /  know 
what  the  next  stop'll  be, or  ze^//^ «,  for  that  matter?" 

"And  supposing  at  the  next  stop  nobody 
happens  to  come  along?  " 

This  question  was  evidently  not  worth  answer- 
ing, for  no  reply  came.  As  a  matter  of  fact,  I 
expect  my  taciturn  friend  was  sick  of  answering 
the  fusillade  of  idiotic  ([uestions. 

My  imagination,  I  suppose,  must  have  in- 
creased the  stuffiness  of  the  atmosphere,  for  when 
I  sat  down  once  more  to  think  things  over  I  felt 
as  though  I  could  hardly  breathe. 

It  may  not  sound  a  particularly  awful  position 
to  be  in  ;  in  fact,  compared  with  some  of  the 
extraordinary  adventures  that  befall  travellers  all 
the  world  over,  it  may  be  dubbed  distinctly 
tame.  Ikit  circumstances  alter  cases.  It  is  one 
thing  to  go  through  peril  in  the  heat  of  the 
moment  and  quite  another  to  sit  still  in  cold 
blood  and  wait  for  it.  Besides,  there  are  perils 
and  perils.  Suffocation  has  always  been  my 
pet  aversion  as  a  means  of  shuftling  off  this 
mortal  coil.  If  I  have  a  nightmare  it  invariably 
takes  the  form  of  my  being  l)uried  alive,  usually 
m  a  trance,  when  I  can  neither  move  hand  nor 
toot,  yet  am  still  conscious  of  all  that  goes  on 
around  me.  Here,  to  all  appearances,  was 
my  nightmare  being  fulfilled  in  actual  life 
under  different,  though  none  the  less  terrifying, 
circumstances. 

Instead  of  the  narrow  coffin  of  my  dreams  I 
had  the  more  roomy,  though  more  substantial, 
chamber  of  a  railway  refrigerator.  In  place  of 
a  trance,  the  full  possession  of  one's  faculties, 
with  the  full  realization  of  their  uselessness.  I 
sat  there  for  what  seemed  to  me  hours,  till  at 
last,  with  a  feeling  that  I  must  do  something,  I 
started  kicking  and  pummelling  the  sides  of  the 
car  till  my  feet  and  fists  were  numb.  Ureathing 
was  now  becoming  a  matter  of  more  and  more 
difficulty  every  moment. 

"  It's  of  no  use  gettin'  scared,  stranger,"  said 
my  calm  companion.  Of  course,  I  was 
righteously  indignant  at  this  accusation,  but, 
as  my  expostulations  called  forth  no  res[)onse, 
they  were  rather  wasted  energy. 


A      IHOUSAXl)     MILLS     IX     A     Ri:i- KKIKRA  TOR 


2'5 


We  must  have  sat  there  in  suspense  for  at 
least  another  lialfhour,  during  which  time  I 
wontler  my  hair  did  not  turn  white  from 
anxiety.  How  my  companion  could  sit  there, 
gas[)ing,  but  otlierwise  impassive  and  apparently 
resigned  to  his  fate,  with  the  knowledge  that 
unless  fresh  oxygen  was  forthcoming  within  at 
the  most  two  hours  we  should  be  struggling 
desperately  for  the  breath  of  life,  and  after 
the  expiration  of  another  hour  would  have  sunk 
into  the  unconsciousness  from  which  there  is  no 
awakening,  surpassed  my  "tenderfoot"  under- 
standing. 

I  crawled  up  and  down  the  narrow  box,  hit- 
ting my  head  first  against  the  roof  and  then  the 
sides  of  the  car.  I  pummelled  and  yelled  and 
made  fierce  attempts  to  push  open  that  four 
itiches  of  zinc  that  separated  us  from  freedom, 
but  alt  to  no  purpose.  At  last  I  sank  into  my 
original  place  in  the  corner  with  the  chill 
of  despair  at  my  heart  and  beads  of 
perspiration  on  my  forehead. 

I  had  almost 
resigned      my- 
self   to    death 
when    a    shrill 
w  h  i  s  1 1  e  :in 
nounced     that 
the  train  was 
approaching 
a  station  or 
siding.     I 
think       that 
must  be  the 
first    time  a 
train  whistle 
was  blessed. 
Already     I 
began    to    feel 
fresh    air    and 
freedom      at 
hand,  the  two 
things    that    I 
have    sine  e 
come     to    the 
conclusion  are 
their      posses- 
sor's    greatest 
blessings. 

The  first  jolt 
had  not  shaken 
the  car  before 
we  both  set  to  shouting  and  ki(  king  the  sides  of 
our  prison. 

Jolt !  Jolt !  Jolt  :  IJang  !  Jiang  !  Our 
voices,  amidst  the  din  of  the  shunting  cars, 
sounded  like  the  squeals  of  a  caged  mouse. 

Even  in  the  position  I  was  then  in  I  could 
not  help  feeling  an   exultant  joy  as  I    noticed 


that  my  companion  was  at  last  just  as  excited  as 
myself. 

Ultimately  the  train  came  to  a  standstill,  and 
together  we  raised  one  frantic  shout,  accom- 
panied with  kicks  on  the  side  of  the  car,  which 
I  verily  believe  would  have  given  way  if  we  had 
kept  kicking  long  enough. 

There  was  no  answer. 

We  waited  in  breathless  suspense. 

Then  there  came  a  faint  methodical  crunch, 
crunch,  on  the  gravel  at  the  side  of  the  track. 
Again  we  shouted. 

The  crunching  came  nearer  and  nearer  and 
finally  stopped. 

We  yelled  and  beat  the  car-side  afresh. 

"Where  are  you,  anyway?"  came  a  gruff 
voice  from  outside. 

"  In  here,  and  very  nearly  stifled,"  I  yelled. 
"  For  Heaven's  sake  let  us  out  sharp." 


'WHKKE   AKE    VOU,    ANVWAY?'   CAME    A    (.RUKF    VOICR    l-ROM    OUTSIDE. 


"  Where's  here  ?  "' 

"  In  the  refrigerator.'' 

A  low  chuckle,  which  at  the  time  I  remember 
thinking  distinctly  out  of  place,  greeted  this 
piece  of  information,  and  soon  steps  could  be 
heard  ascending  the  little  iron  ladder. 

I  heard  the  outer  trap  opened.     That  was  one 


2  I  6 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


lucli  nearer  fresh  air,  but  there   were  still  four 
inches  of  zinc  between  ourselves  and  freedom. 

"You  can't  open  that,"  shouted  my  com- 
panion ;  "  it's  stuck  !     Open  the  other." 

There  are  always  two  traps  on  the  top  of  a 
car ;  but,  of  course,  the  second  in  our  case  was 
locked.  However,  it  soon  opened  to  the  brakes- 
man's key,  the  outer  lid  came  up,  and  after  a 
few  seconds'  lugging  the  lid  followed  suit  with 
the  same  curious  sucking  sound  as  before,  as 
though  it  were  loth  to  relea.se  its  captives. 

I  was  about  to  thrust  my  head  out  to  get  a 
mouthful  of  real  air  when  the  "  hobo  "  pushed 
me  aside  and  whis[)ered,  hurriedly  : — 


held  out  the  bottle  we  had  shared  on  the 
previous  day. 

"  Thanks  ;    but   why "     The   rest  of  the 

sentence  was  stopped  by  the  neck  of  the  bottle 
and  the  outflow  of  its  contents. 

He  was  ours  !  He  had,  as  it  were,  tasted  of 
our  salt. 

As. for  me  I  retired  into  the  darkness  once 
more,  and,  divesting  myself  of  a  boot  and  sock, 
selected  a  dollar  bill  which  I  knew  to  be  on 
the  outside  of  the  bundle.  Then,  climbing 
back  to  the  roof  again,  I  presented  the  money 
to  the  brakesman. 

He  looked  at  it  for  a  moment  and  then  at  me. 


"  I ' '  me  work  this." 

1     of    rnU\     tonight."     he     remarked, 

m.     As  the  perspiration 

"1  in  brads  I  couldn't 

'•mark. 

but     wh.i  |,c-gan     the     brakes 


Hav< 


,-r  .1   flrinl  V'  .,jj    the '♦  hobo,"  and   I 


)c 


THANKS,     HE   .SAID.       '  I  VE    DONE   SOME 
"  BF.ATIn'"    MVSF.I.1--.'   ■ 

I'  What's  this  for  ?  "  he  asked. 

"  Er— er     for  you,"  I  stammered. 

"  Thanks,"  he  said.  "  I've  done  some  'bcatin' ' 
my.self  in  my  time,"  and  passed  it  back. 

Which  goes  to  [)rove  that  \\'cstcrners  are 
enigmas,  and  that  there  are  brakesmen  and 
t)rakesmen.  We  travelled  the  rest  of  the  way 
7vi//i  that  trap  open  ! 


sport  and  Adventure  in  Gallaland. 

By  a.  Arkell-Harowick,  F.R.G.S. 
II. 

The  narrative  of  a  most  eventful  journey  from  Kikuyu,  in  British  East  Africa,  to  Gallaland,  via  Mount 

Kenia.     Much  of  the  country  traversed  is  very  little  known,  and  Mr.  Hardwick's  party  suffered  much  from 

the  difficulties  of  the  route,  want  of  food  when  game  was  scarce,  and  the  attacks  of  hostile  natives. 


HI'vN  \vc  liad  laid  in  a  sufficient 
supply  of  niL-at  we  continued  our 
journey  down  the  Waso  Nyiro.  The 
country  hereabouts  is  covered  with 
mineral  .salts.  Wide  expanses  of 
carbonate  of  soda  glitter  in  the  sun  with  blinding 
radiance,  while  great  masses  of  lava  occur  here 
and  there.  One  layer,  twenty-five  feet  in  thick- 
ness, consisting  of  blocks  of  black  vesicular 
lava,  gave  us  a  great  deal  of  trouble,  besides 
causing  us  no  small  anxiety.  The  blocks  varied 
in  si^e  from  a  football  to  a  small  trunk  ;  they 
were  very  sharp  and  jagged,  and  soon  cut  our 
boots  to  ribbons.  If  the  reader  will  imagine 
a  stream  of  ants  endeavouring  to  cross  an  exten- 
sive bed  of  small  coke  our  position  will  be  grasped 
at  once.  The  almost  vertical  sun  beat  down 
with  merciless  severity,  and  the  lava  absorbing 
a  large  amount  of  the  heat,  this  heat  was 
again  given  forth  by  radiation,  so  that  at  times 
we  seemed  to  be  walking  on  a  veritable  furnace. 
A  dreadful  thirst  assailed  us,  and  many  of  the 
men  drop[)ed  from  the  combined  effects  of  the 
terrific  heat  and  exhaustion.  After  a  march 
of  an  hour  or  so  we  considered  that  it  was  (]uite 
time  we  reached  the  other  side,  and  pressed 
forward  with  greater  speed.  Hour  after  hour 
we  toiled  along  among  the  piles  of  loosely- 
j)oised  blocks  of  lava,  which  rolled  and  slipped 
continually  under  our  feet,  threatening  at  times 
to  tiislurb  the  equilibrium  of  other  adjacent 
piles,  with  great  danger  of  their  rolling  down 
and  crushitig  us.  Our  one  desire  was  water. 
It  was  now  quite  as  difficult  to  turn  back  as  to 
go  forward,  so  we  kept  doggedly  on  with  the 
few  followers  who  remained  with  us.  The  bulk 
of  our  men  had  dro[)ped  out  one  by  one, 
utterly  exhausted.  We  pushed  on  in  the  hope 
of  reaching  the  farther  side  of  the  "  cinder 
hea[),"  as  we  called  it,  and  there  finding  water 
which  we  could  send  back  to  those  who  remained 
behind. 

At  last,  when  hope  had  almost  utterly  expired, 
with  our  heads  swimming  and  tongues  parched 

Vol.  xi.-28. 


and  swollen,  we  reached  a  spot  where  the 
layer  of  lava  seemed  thinner,  and  presently 
a  stretch  of  light  soil  appeared  with  a  few 
blades  of  stunted  yellow  grass  growing  upon 
it.  We  raised  a  feeble  cheer  and  staggered 
forward,  only  to  relapse  once  more  into  blank 
despair,  as  we  found  that  it  was  but  a  few 
yards  in  extent.  On  the  other  side  the  lava 
appeared  once  more,  black  and  forbidding  as 
ever.  Still  we  pushed  forward,  though  no  pen 
can  describe  the  horrors  of  that  unending 
tramp.  We  finally  became  apathetic,  moving 
along  like  automata,  gazing  listlessly  forward 
with  unseeing  eyes.  Once  a  pair  6f  giraffes 
crossed  our  path.  They  stood  and  gazed 
awhile  and  then  fled.  A  rhinoceros  also  passed 
within  twenty  yards  of  us,  and,  notwithstanding 
his  huge  bulk,  trotted  lightly  and  easily  over  the 
lava  blocks. 

Late  in  the  afternoon  we  reached  the  edge  of 
this  fearful  plateau  and  descended  to  the  sandy 
plain  which  lay  beneath.  It  was  covered  with 
coarse  scrub  and  clumps  of  sharp,  jagged  thorns, 
but  by  contrast  with  the  inferno  we  had  just 
quitted  it  seemed  a  very  paradise.  We  had  still 
a  long  and  weary  three-hour  march  before  we 
reached  the  river  once  more,  but  everything  has 
an  end,  and  towards,  evening  we  threw  ourselves 
down  in  the  shade  of  the  palms  on  the  river  bank, 
absolutely  dead  beat.  We  had  no  food  and  no 
tents  or  camp  equipment,  the.se  being  strewn 
along  the  road  behind  us,  as  the  men  halted 
one  by  one  and  fell  out  exhausted.  We  sent 
those  men  who  had  kept  up  with  us  to  carry 
water  to  those  still  upon  the  road,  but  it  was 
nearly  eight  hours  later  before  they  all  turned 
up.  They  came  into  cam[)  in  giou[)s  of  three  or 
four,  and,  throwing  down  their  loads,  collapsed 
in  a  heap  on  the  ground.  One  man  died  on 
that  terrible  "cinder  heap,"  and  was  left  where 
he  fell  by  his  comrades. 

During  the  night  some  of  the  men  managed 
to  set  the  grass  within  the  camp  on  fire.  All 
hands   turned   out   and,  armed   with    blankets, 


THK    WIDI-:    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


sacks,  and  buckets  of  water,  luught  madly 
against  the  fierce  flames,  which  sprang  up  every- 
where from  the  dry  vegetation.  Had  the  fire 
caught  the  pahus  nothing  could  have  saved  us, 
as  the  camp  must  inevitably  have  been  destroyed. 


On  the  fourth  or  fifth  day  after  leaving  the 
"Green  Camp"  we  reached  a  large  swamp  of 
brackish  water  several  miles  in  area.  ^\  V- 
camped  upon  a  patch  of  green  grass  at  the  end 
of   the   swamp    nearest    the    river.     A   [)eculiai 


"AI.I,    hands    lOttCillT    MADLY    A(.,.\I.\.sr    HIE    FIERCE    H.A.MKS. 


After  an  liour's  hard  work,  liowever,  we  managed 

Uliie   the  flames  and   retired   to  rest  once 

N\'e  were  all    more   or   less   singed   in 

^  wc  had   turned  out   in  our  shirts  and 

d,  so  that  wc  were  by  no  means  well 

!, 

norning  we  started  down  the  river  once 

iwrticular  care  to  keep  near  the 

Mce  of  short   cuts    the   day 

'  -     n    particularly    unfortunate. 

■vi-   tramped   along,  the  country 

id  ntore  desolate  as  we  advanced 

'         1      Gravel   or   red    earth 

.md    blcjcks    of   lava    or 

'^   wil'i  ity   Rrowih   of  thorn    trees, 

'  pe  as  one  could 

1-   •      •■••■'.    ;..' re    rose    towering 

'  k,  principally  red  and  pink  gneiss. 

'  f  the   cliffs  adjoining   the  river 

•      and    l)abf)ons   skipped  and 

ly.     'I'he  only  restful  feature 

'  was  the  long  line  of  palms  which 

'"'^    '    ■'      MUMUs  course  of  the  river,     (lame 

was  growing  s.  .u' er  anr|  we  had  some  difficulty 

in  feeding  the  caravan. 


circumstance  connected  with  this  swani[)  was 
that  its  bed  was  at  least  eighty  feet  higher  than 
that  of  the  river,  which  here  flowed  at  the 
bottom  of  a  deep  canon,  and  into  which  it 
emptied  itself  by  a  cascade  of  water,  highly 
impregnated  witli  minerals,  which  tumbled  over 
the  edge  of  the  cliff 

As  we  had  so  far  seen  no  signs  of  the  Roiulile 
and  Burkeneji  tribes,  of  whom  we  were  in 
search,  we  determined  to  retrace  our  steps  up 
the  river  to  the  "Green  Camp,"  and  from  there 
strike  northward  to  Mount  Lololokwc,  in  the 
hope  of  finding  them  in  that  locality.  W  i' 
therefore  arose  early  next  morning  and  departed, 
being  hastened  thereto  by  dense  clouds  of  tiny 
midges,  which  arose  from  the  swamp  and  fero- 
ciously attacked  both  man  and  beast,  driving  us 
all  nearly  frantic.  They  were  exceedingly  small, 
but  their  sting  was  most  venomous,  and  soon 
our  faces,  necks,  and  arms  were  itching  madly 
from  innumerable  bites.  It  was  not  until  we 
were  nearly  half  a  mile  from  the  swamp  that  we 
were  free  from  these  pests. 

On  the  day  that  we  reached  the  "(ireen 
Camp"  we  shot  a  couple  of  rhinoceroses,  which 


SPORT    AND    ADVEN'IURE    IN    CALLALAN I ). 


219 


were  immediately  cut  up  for  food  by  our  half- 
starved  retainers.  My  rhinoceros  made  things 
very  unpleasant  for  me  until  I  finally  downed 
him.  I  fired  at  him  with  the  Martini  at  twenty 
vards.  Being  so  close  to  him  I  aimed  some- 
what carelessly,  with  the  result  that  I  hit 
him  rather  too  high  up  in  the  shoulder  and 
wounded  without  disabling  him.  On  receiv- 
ing  the  shot  he  stood  quite  still  for  a 
moment  and  then  walked  slowly  away. 
Thinking  I  was  going  to  lose  him  I  moved 
cautiously  forward,  but  stumbled  over  a  small 
heap  of  loose  stones  in  doing  so.  Round  came 
my  quarry  and  charged  me,  while  I  hastily  re- 
loaded, finding,  to  my  consternation,  that  I  had 
but  one  cartridge  left.  I  dodged  behind  the 
stone  heap,  but  the  rhino  dodged  also,  and  we 
met  face  to  f;K-e  on  the  opposite  side.  I  had 
no  time  to  weigh  chances,  so,  raising  my  rifle, 
I  let  him .  have  my  last  cartridge  in  the  neck, 
and  by  great  good  luck  succeeded  in  smashing 
his  spine.  He  dropped  dead  instantly  within 
three  yards  of  me,  thus  relieving  my  mind  con- 
siderably, for  I  must  confess  I  had  already 
commenced  to  dwell  with  unpleasant  persistence 
upon  fractures,  dislocations,  and  other  incon- 
veniences incidental  to  a  meeting  with  an 
enraged  and  wounded  rhinoceros.  However, 
"all's  well  that  end's  well,"  and  my  late 
antagonist  proved  a  welcome  addition  to  our 
commissariat. 

When  we  reached  the  "  Green  Camp "  we 
sent  a  few  men  back  to  M'thara  to  try  to 
obtain  a  couple  of  Wandorobbo  guides.  These 
^^'andorobbo  are  great  hunters.  They  have  no 
Settled  habitation,  but  travel  about  from  place  to 
place  in  small  bands  to  any  sjjot  where  game  is 
to  be  found.  They  kill  elephants  by  means  of 
a  heavy  spear  with  a  poisoned  barb  loosely  fitted 
into  a  socket  at  the  head.  Creeping  into 
the  bush  to  the  spot  where  the  elephant  is 
feeding,  the  Wandorobbo  hunter  watches  his 
opportunity  and  selects  a  place  in  the  flank  of 
the  huge  beast,  where  the  skin  is  thinner  than 
on  the  rest  of  the  body,  and  with  a  quick  move- 
ment plunges  his  spear  into  his  vitals.  He  then 
disappears  into  the  bush  with  great  agility.  The 
startled  elephant  breaks  away  through  the  bush, 
and  the  heavy  spear-shaft  drops  to  the  ground, 
leaving  the  poisoned  barb  to  do  its  deadly  work 
in  the  animal's  body.  Sometimes  the  hunter 
is  caught  and  instantly  killed  by  the  enraged 
elephant  ;  but  I  did  not  learn  that  such  an 
occurrence  s|)oilt  the  ajjpetites  of  the  surviving 
members  of  the  band. 

After  five  days'  absence  the  men  whom  we 
sent  to  M'thara  returned,  having  secured  two 
Wandorobbo  guides,  who  informed  us  that  the 
Rendile    were    situated    by    the    river,     much 


farther  down  than  the  swamp  at  which  we  had 
camped.  We  therefore  started  once  more  on 
our  journey  down  stream,  but  at  the  first  halt, 
to  our  utter  dismay,  the  guides  suddenly  bolted 
and  disappeared  into  the  surrounding  bush, 
eluding  all  search.  W^e  were  utterly  at  a  loss 
to  account  for  their  singular  action,  and  a  cross- 
examination  of  our  men  threw  no  light  upon  the 
matter.  \\'e  finally  [>ut  it  down  to  the  perversity 
of  things  in  general  and  native  guides  in 
particular. 

We  then  held  a  consultation,  and  as  a  result 
decided  to  continue  our  march  down  the  river 
until  we  found  the  Rendile,  as,  at  any  rate, 
we  had  now  definite  information  of  their  where- 
abouts. For  the  next  few  days  we  tramped 
steadily  eastward,  the  country  becoming  daily 
more  forbidding  in  its  aspect.  For  many  miles, 
in  certain  places,  the  ground  was  covered  with 
loose  stones,  which  rolled  and  slipped  underfoot, 
bruising  our  ankles  and  making  a  long  march  an 
event  to  be  painfully  remembered.  With  the 
exception  of  the  palms  on  the  river  bank,  a  few- 
aloes  and  scattered  thorn  trees  were  the  only 
representatives  of  the  vegetable  world.  These, 
in  combination  with  the  great  red  masses  of 
gneiss  rock,  some  of  which  were  several  hundred 
feet  in  height,  and  patches  of  brown,  soft  earth 
into  which  we  sank  above  the  ankles  at  every 
step,  formed  as  desolate  and  dreary  a  landscape 
as  could  be  found  in  Africa.  Game,  too,  became 
very  scarce,  and  we  began  to  feel  the  sharp 
pinch  of  hunger. 

At  length  the  men  could  go  no  farther,  and 
one  afternoon  we  halted  on  the  river  bank  and 
decided  to  camp  there  all  the  next  day,  sending 
a  few  men  on  ahead  in  light  marching  order  to 
see  if  they  could  discover  anything  of  the 
whereabouts  of  the  Rendile.  If  they  did  not, 
we  promised  to  turn  back.  We  had  scarcely 
made  these  arrangements,  however,  when  a 
shout  from  some  of  our  men  of  "  People  ! 
people  !  Wc  can  see  many  people  I"  aroused  us. 
Inquiry  elicited  the  fact  that  a  body  of  men 
were  approaching  our  camp  from  down  the  river. 
When  they  reached  us  we  found  to  our  inex- 
pressible relief  that  they  were  some  eighty 
of  the  men  of  the  Somalis'  caravan  previously 
mentioned,  which  left  M'thara  two  or  three 
days  before  us.  Their  leader,  Mokojori,  in- 
formed us  that  their  main  body  under  Ismail 
was  even  then  camped  among  the  Rendile 
\  illages  five  days'  march  farther  down  the  river  ! 
His  party  had  been  sent  to  buy  food  at  Dhaicho, 
a  settlement  on  the  other  side  of  the  Jombeni 
hills,  the  home  of  the  Wa'Embe,  and  were  now 
on  their  way  thither.  They  very  kindly  lent  us 
one  of  their  number  as  a  guide,  and  then  pro- 
ceeded on  their  way.     We  resumed  our  march 


220 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


the  following  morning,  and  after  four  days'  hard 
travelling  arrived,  tired,  footsore,  and  hungry, 
within  sight  of  the  long -desired  encampments 
of  the  Kendile  and  Hurkcneji  tribes. 

We  were  well  received,  and  at  once  proceeded 
to  make  ourselves  comfortable.  Ismail  had 
constructed  a  large  thorn  stockade  and  pitched 
his  camp  inside.  When  we  arrived  he  was 
engaged  in  dispatching  parties  of  men  provided 
with  cloths,  iron  and  brass  wire,  and  beads  in 
every  "  "H,  for  the  purpose  of  buying  ivory 
and  ca.....    ::oni  the  Kendile. 

As  soon  as  we  had  settled  down  in  our  own 
cam|)s  we  received  visits  from  several  of  the 
kendile  chiefs.  In  appearance  these  nomads 
of  the  desert  were  most  prepossessing.  Well 
built  and  of  fine  physique,  they  exhibited  none 
of  the  characteristics  of  the  negro.  Their  jet- 
black  hair  was  long  and  straight,  their  foreheads 
were  high,  and  noses  inclined  to  be  aquiline. 
Their  jaws  and  chins  were  firm  and  clean  cut, 
while  in  colour  they  ranged  from  dark  brown 
to  olive,  'i'hey  were  clad  in  ample  cloaks  of  white 
cloth  ornamented  with  fringes  of  small  red 
beads,  and  presented  an  appearance  infinitely 
sujK.Tior  to  the  natives  farther  south. 

The  tribe  is  very  wealthy  as  natives  go,  some 
of  the  more  powerful  individuals  among  them 
possessing  thousands  of  sheep,  goats,  and 
camels.  One  chief  named  Lubo  possessed  no 
fewer  than  sixteen  thousand  camels,  with  sheep 
and  goats  iimumerable.  Though  they  are 
gentle  in  their  manners  almost  to  the  point  of 
absurdity,  they  are  fierce  fighters  on  occasion. 
A'  ill   of  the  old   men   bore  the  marks  of 

^  inds  gained  in  their  youth  in  sanguinary 

:ts  with  the  Horana,  who  live  more  to  the 
hufiliwards  in  the  Arushi  Oalla  country;  and 
with  ihi;  Turkana,  who  live  to  the  west  of  Lake 
Rudolph.  Their  weapons  consist  of  a  light 
»IH;ar  and  shield  of  buffalo  or  ox  hide  of  a 
|)cculinr  narrow  oblong  shape.  We  were  in- 
formed that  the  young  men  who  wished  to 
demonstrate  their  courage  were  in  the  habit  of 
I'  ir  shii-lds  away  at   the  commcncc- 

II  tit  and  receiving  upon  their  left  fore- 

•'!■  r  thrusts  they  were  unable  to  dodge. 

We  lound  ihcm,  in  S|)ilc  of  their  wealth,  most 


They  would  sit  in  front  of 
while   begging  for  a   bit   of 
When  remonstrated 
■   eyebrows  gently  in 
i  .  il  not  good  to  give  ?" 
lat  if  that  were  so  why  did 
something,  they  answered  still 
"  \'ou    have    never   asked  !  " 
;    out    that    it    was    not    the 
m  of  the  white  man  to  beg,  they  were  quite 
unaulc  to  understand. 


brass  wire  or  a  few  beads. 


\\  111  n  we  r» 


II.'    M- 

Wh'-n 


we 


The  climate  here  was  delightful— very  hot, 
but  the  air  was  dry  and  clear.  The  Rendile 
lived  on  milk,  of  which  they  obtained  immense 
quantities  from  their  vast  flocks  and  herds, 
though,  strange  to  say,  they  owned  very  few 
cat'tle.  They  milk  their  camels,  sheep,  and 
goats  indiscriminately,  pouring  the  mixed  pro- 
duct into  vessels  of  wood  or  plaited  string 
made  watertight  with  gum.  After  our  long 
spell  of  a  purely  meat  diet  we  followed  their 
example  and  lived  for  some  weeks  on  milk, 
which  we  bought  from  them.  A  few  beads 
would  purchase  about  a  gallon  of  milk,  which  we 
boiled,  and  this,  with  the  addition  of  a  saccharine 
tabloid  from  the  medicine  chest,  made  a  nourish- 
ing if  somewhat  unsatisfying  meal.  The  three 
of  us  usually  consumed  about  two  gallons  per 
day  each  when  we  could  get  it,  and  personally  I 
never  felt  so  well  in  my  life,  and  I  gained  a 
stone  in  weight. 

Small-pox  was  raging  with  great  violence  in 
the  tribe  and  the  deaths  were  very  numerous, 
the  population  of  some  of  the  villages  being  so 
depleted  that  the  survivors  were  unable  to  drive 
all  their  animals  down  to  water  at  once,  but 
instead  took  the  sheep  down  to  the  river  one  day 
and  the  camels  the  next,  and  so  on  alternately. 

The  Burkeneji,  who  are  also  known  as  the 
Samburu,  were  very  different  to  their  neighbours 
both  in  ap{)earance  and  disposition.     The  two 
tribes   lived   and    wandered    over   the   country 
together,   but  remained  perfectly  distinct  from 
one    another    in    language    and    habits.     The 
Burkeneji  closely  approached   the  negro  type, 
with   their   broad,  flat    noses    and    prognathous 
jaws.     In  their  behaviour  to  us  they  were  sullen 
and  inclined  to  be  quarrelsome  ;  indeed,  upon 
one  occasion  there  was  some  friction   between 
them  and   a   parly  of  our  men,  and  a  spear  was 
thrown,   though,    hap[)ily,    without    fatal    result. 
Fortunately,  we  managed  to  smooth   the  affair 
over  without   further  hostilities.      I  could  never 
rightly  understand  their  relations  with  the   Ren- 
dile.    I  was  informed  that  at  one  time  they  were 
the  slaves  of  the  latter,  but  they  have  so  increased 
in  numbers  (while  the  Rendile, owing  to  the  small- 
pox, have   proportionately  decreased)  that   they 
are  now  a  force  to  be  reckoned  with.     They  act 
as  a  kind  of  standing  army  to  the  Rendile,  and 
in  return  reserve  to  themselves  the  right  to  loot 
the  flocks  and  herds  of  their  erstwhile  masters. 
The  Rendile  more  than  once  complained  to  us 
after  some  particularly  daring  theft,  but,  strange 
to  say,  they  were  never  moved  to  resentment  or 
retaliation,  at  least  so  far  as  I  could  ascertain. 

At  this  time  the  Somali  caravan  met  with 
a  terrible  disaster.  The  party  of  eighty  men, 
under  the  headman  whom  we  had  met  upon  the 
road  and  who  lent  us  a  guide,  had  not  returned 


SPORT    AND    ADVlArURE    IN    C.ALI. ALAND. 


at  the  expected  lime.  A  few  days  alter  our 
arrival  among  the  Rendile  a  group  of  haggard 
and  travel  -  stained  men,  to  the  number  of 
sixteen,  staggered  into  Ismail's  camp,  the  sole 
survivors  of  the  large  party  which  he  had  sent 
to  buy  food  at  Dhaicho.  Their  story  was  very 
brief,  but  to  the  {)()int.  'i'he  day  after  they  met 
us  they  left  the  river  and  struck  southwards 
across  the  desert  in  tiie  direction  of  the  Jom- 
beni  hills.  Hie  water-hole  at  which  they  had 
intended  camping  was  found  to  be  dry,  so  they 
pushed  on.  For  three  days  they  pressed 
blindly  forward  in  the  .scorching  sun,  suffer- 
ing untold  agonies  for  want  of  water.  On 
the  afternoon  of  the  fourth  day  they  reached 
the  foot  of  the  hills  and  found  a  small 
pool.  They  threw  themselves  down  and 
drank  as  only  men  in  a  similar  plight  could 
drink,  and  then,  overcome  with  fatigue,  they  lay 
down  to  sleep.  The  Wa'Embe  had  watched 
their  arrival  from  the  hills,  and  while  they  slei)t 
descendctl  and  attacked  them  in  overwhelming 
force.  The  poor  wretches,  enfeebled  by  tlieir 
sufferings,  made  practically  no  defence,  but  were 
massacred  in  detail  as  they  attempted  to  flee. 
Spear  and  sword  soon  did  their  ghastly  work, 
and  over  sixty 
men  perished 
before  the  dusk 
descended  and 
[)ut  a  stop  to  the 
butchery.  Only  a 
few  of  the  more 
active  succeeded 
in  getting  away 
and  regaining 
their  camp. 

After  two  or 
three  weeks'  stay 
among  the  Ren- 
dile, it  occurred 
to  us  to  make 
the  attempt  to 
reach  the  Lorian 
s  w  a  m  [) ,  into 
which  the  W'a.so 
Nyiro  emi)ties  it- 
self. This  swamp 
was  discovered 
by  Mr.  As  tor 
Chanlcr  in  1893. 
He  and  his  com- 
panion, Lieu- 
tenant F>udwig 
Von  Hohnel,  of 
the  I m  1 )  e  r  i  a  1 
Austrian  Navy, 
having  heard, 
when      travelling 


on  the  upper  reaches  of  the  Waso  Nyiro,  that  a 
large  lake  existed  somewhere  to  the  eastward, 
determined  to  make  an  effort  to  reach  it.  They 
were  fired  by  the  hope  of  discovering  another 
great  African  lake,  and  wiien,  after  a  tremen- 
dous march,  suffering  incredible  hardships  by 
the  way,  they  found  that  it  was  only  a  swamp 
after  all,  they  were  so  disgusted  and  disappointed 
that  they  turned  back  at  once  without  examming 
it  further.  We  hoped,  therefore,  to  reach  Lorian 
and  examine  it  more  particularly,  a  hope,  alas  I 
doomed  to  disappointment. 

Leaving  our  Rendile  camp  in  charge  of  our 
headman  with  the  bulk  of  the  porters,  we 
started  with  only  a  dozen  men  in  light  marching 
order.  Tents  and  camp  equipment  were  all 
left  behind  ;  a  couple  of  blankets  apiece,  a  spare 
shirt  or  two,  a  (quantity  of  ammunition,  and  a 
couple  of  cooking-pots  constituting  our  sole 
impedimenta. 

For  the  first  day  or  two  the  travelling  was 
fairly  easy,  but  after  that  the  character  of  the 
country  completely  changed.  The  Waso  Nyiro 
now  flowed  through  the  barren  desert,  and  at 
tunes  patches  of  brown  earth  several  square 
miles  \n  extent  materially  impeded  our  progress. 


THAT  YOUTH  WITHOUT  MORK  AUO  LET  DRIVE 
AT  ISMAIL." 


222 


This  brown  rarth  was  of  the  consistency 
starch  and  seemed  to  be  undermined  in  every 
direction  by  holes  and  burrows.  We  sanlc 
up  to  our  knees  at  every  step,  while  the  mules 
floundered  along  in  a  most  pitiful  manner. 
It  was  utterly  impossible  to  ride  them.  Our 
passage  caused  clouds  of  fine  dust  to  rise,  which 
nearly  choked  us,  filling  our  eyes,  ears,  and 
nostrils  in  a  particularly  uncomfortable  and 
irritating  manner.  At  other  times  we  would 
meet  with  great  {)atches  of  smooth  white  sand, 
looking  to  the  eye  as  firm  and  hard  as  possible, 
but  we  found  it  every  whit  as  treacherous  as  the 
brown  earth.  It  gave  way  under  our  feet  and 
caused  us  endless  trouble  and  fatigue  in  travers- 
ing iL  Rhinoceroses  were  also  disgustingly 
frequent  and  frightened  the  men  considerably. 
Cr.at  .  r.Modilcs,  ranging  in  colour  from  bright 
ycUuw  and  bright  green  to  dark  brown, 
basked  in  the  sun  upon  the  mud  of  the  river 
banks.  One  of  the  loathsome  reptiles  captured 
and  devoured  our  little  dog  without  giving  us  a 
chance  of  retaliation,  an  event  which  damped 
our  spirits  considerably,  as  we  were  exceedingly 
fond  of  the  animal,  which  had  endeared  itself 
to  us  all  by  its  winning  disposition  and  playful 
manners 

The  men  now  commenced  to  grumble  openly 
and  desired  us  to  turn  back  before  worse  befell 
us.  W'c  {jersuaded  them  to  keep  up  for  a  day 
or  two  hunger,  but  they  were  already  half  mutin- 
ous, which  handicapped  us  somewhat.  Two  of 
ihini  deserted,  and  the  others  showed  signs  of 
following  their  example.  "  We  have  come  to 
the  end  of  the  world,"  said  they  ;  "  let  us  go 
l>ack.  There  are  many  devils  here,  and  we  are 
greatly  afraid  ! " 

To  cut  a  long  story  short,  we  reached  the 
limit  of  Mr.  Chanler's  journey  in  1893,  only  to 
find  thai  lx>rian   had   receded   still   more  to  the 
caMward,  doubtless  owing  to  the  drought,  which 
'     '     '        '     '     ''d  fi)r  three  years  at  the  time  of 
shot    a    lii|)popotamus    and   a 
'le  of  buffalo,   which    gave   us  a  sufficient 
•iy  of  ffKKJ  to  take  us  back  to  our  Rendile 
'    '  '..."■-  of  seven  days' journey.     Those 
among  the  hardest  we  had  yet 
.  but  we  jK-gged  away  and  eventually 
•  '•re  and  half  starved, 
r    we    bade  farewell    to    our 
id    commenced    our    march 
\  Sf)mali  youth  named  liarri 
and  joined  us  during  our 
We  allowed  him  to  stay  with 
not  in  their  pay,  but  was  a  small 
'int.     Ismail   Robli,  how- 
view  i.f  the  matter,  and, 
preparing  to  break   up  our  camp 
resuming    our    march    on     the 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    M.AGAZINE 
of 


great 


in  1 

A 

krn. 

lllr 

fr. 

• ,  .  ^  I 

tf. 

t!,. 

Ml 

1  r 

•vt'te 


second  day,  he  appeareil  in  a  state  of 
excitement  \vith  a  few  armed  followers,  having 
marched  all  night  in  order  to  overtake  us.  He 
demanded  that  Barn  should  be  given  up  to  him, 
but  as  that  youth  had  left  our  camp  two  or 
three  hours  earlier  to  try  to  procure  some  milk 
for  us  from  a  distant  Burkeneji  village  we  were 
unable  to  comply  with  his  request. 

In  the  meantime  some  of  Ismail's  men  were 
hunting  about  round  our  camp,  and  at  that 
moment  Barri  returned.  Two  of  the  Somalis 
rushed  at  him,  threatening  him  with  loaded  rifles 
and  demanding  his  immediate  surrender.  Barn's 
reply  was  a  shot  from  his  Martini,  which  sent 
them  helter-skelter  behind  a  neighbouring  bush, 
from  whence  they  opened  a  parley  while 
endeavouring  to  get  a  shot  at  him.  P)arri,  how- 
ever, was  equally  wary,  and  another  bullet  from 
his  rifle  showed  them  that  he  was  very  much  on 
the  alert.  Ismail,  hearing  the  shots,  rushed  out 
of  our  camp  with  his  rifle  and  ran  at  Barri, 
threatening  to  shoot  him.  That  youth  witliout 
more  ado  let  drive  at  Ismail,  bringing  him  down, 
and  then  turned  and  fled  into  the  bush  and  got 
clear  away.  We  had  rushed  after  Ismail  in 
order  to  prevent  bloodshed,  but  it  all  happened 
wath  such  rapidity  that  Ismail  was  shot  before 
we  were  halfway  out  of  camp. 

We  found  Ismail  lying  upon  the  ground  with 
a  bullet  wound  in  the  leg  just  above  the  ankle. 
Fortunately  the  bone  was  not  shattered,  and  the 
injury  proved  to  be  nothing  more  serious  than  a 
severe  flesh  wound.  We  dressed  the  injury 
and  then  rigged  up  a  sort  of  ambulance,  in  which 
we  sent  Ismail  back  to  his  own  camp.  Barri 
rejoined  us  some  days  later  when  we  were 
farther  down  the  river.  As  he  had  acted  purely 
in  self-defence  we  could  not  find  it  in  our  hearts 
to  condemn  him,  and  therefore  allowed  him  to 
remain  with  us,  more  esi)ecially  as  his  life  would 
not  have  been  worth  a  moment's  purchase  in  the 
.Somali  camp  had  we  sent  him  back. 

During  our  ten  days'  march  back  to  our 
"Green  Camp  "  wc  suffered  considerably  from 
want  of  food,  (lame  was  .scarce  and  the  forma- 
tion of  the  country  made  the  travelling  exceed- 
ingly arduous.  With  great  good  fortune  we 
secured  a  hippopotamus  which  was  disporting 
itself  in  a  pool  in  the  river,  and  that  helped  us 
somewhat ;  but  just  before  that  a  solitary  [)art- 
ridge  between  us  formed  the  only  meal  my  two 
comi)anions  and  myself  had  made  in  two  days. 

At  length,  however,  we  reached  the  "Green 
Camp,"  and  once  more  revelled  in  an  abundance 
of  meat,  which  we  secured  from  among  the  vast 
herds  of  zebra,  Grant's  gazelle,  and  watcrbuck 
which  roamed  over  the  surrounding  country. 
The  next  day  we  resumed  our  journey  to 
M'thara.     On   the  first  inarch  we  shot  a  young 


SPORT    AM)     ADVENTURi;     1\     CAI.I.AI  AN  1 ). 


223 


bull  elephant,  a  portion    of  which  \vc  atklcd   to 
our  larder. 

When  we  reached  M'thara  we  found  a  famine 
in  the  land,  the  bean  crop  having  failed  for  want 
of  rain.  'I'o  add  to  our  embarrassments  we 
found  that  the  natives  of  Munitlui,  who  had 
plenty  of  food,  were  hostile,  and  when  we 
marched  over  to  Munitlui  for  the  purpose  of 
buying  food  for  our  journey  round  West  Kenia 
we  were  attacked,  and  only  after  a  severe 
running  fight  for  over  five  hours  did  we  succeed 
in  regaining  our  M'thara  camp. 

During  our  stay  at  M'thara  we  shot  another 
elephant  in  the  thorn 
forest  adjacent  to  our 
camp.  He  was  a  fine 
beast,  and  gave  us  a 
three  hours'  stern  chase 
after  receiving  the  first 
shot,  which,  however, 
ultimately  proved  fatal. 
It  was  probably  the 
same  beast  which  had 
disappointed  me  so 
during  our  stay  in  this 
part  of  the  forest  three 
months  before.  I  was 
sitting  in  camp  one  day 
when  I  heard  some 
guinea-fowl  calling  in 
the  forest  outside  the 
camp.  Seizing  my  gun, 
I  sallied  forth,  intent 
upon  securing  a  bird  or 
two  for  the  pot.  I  was 
wearing  a  pair  of  thin 
rubber  shoes,  and, 
creeping  quietly  through 
the  bush,  wandered 
some  distance  from 
camp.  Presently,  as  I 
got  farther  into  the 
forest,  the  vegetation 
grew  extremely  dense, 
and  I  was  compelled  to 
follow  a  narrow  game- 
track  in  order  to  make 
any  headway  at  all. 
Suddenly  I  saw  a  large, 
brown,  shapeless  mass 
looming  through  the 
undergrowth  a  few  yards 
away.  Halting  instantly, 
I  ga/ed  upon  it,  wonder- 
ing what  on  earth  it 
could  be.  I  could  not 
make  it  out,  and  crept 
noiselessly  nearer  in 
order    to    get    a    better 


view.  When  within  ten  or  fifteen  yards  the 
object  suddenly  moved,  and  an  enormous  head, 
flanked  by  a  pair  of  magnificent  tusks,  swung 
into  view  ;  and  there  I  stood,  armed  only  with 
a  20-bore  shot-gun,  gazing  into  the  face  of  an 
old  bull  elephant.  For  an  instant  I  stood  still, 
and  then,  cautiously  backing  down  the  path,  I 
made  for  camp  with  all  speed  for  a  rifle,  but 
when  I  returned  an  hour  later  the  elephant  had 
withdrawn  into  the  deeper  recesses  of  the  forest 
and  could  not  be  found. 

The   weather    now    changed   and    the   long- 
delayed  rains  commenced  to  descend  in  earnest. 


FcK    AN    INSTA.N1     I    STUOD   STILI 


224 


THK     WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


MUVNT   KCNIA   rKOM    THE   NOK I  H— ALrilOUGH   SITUATED   ALMOST   ON    THE   EyUAIOK    IT    IS   CKOU  SUIJ    \VI  1  H    EVEliLASIlMi    SNuW. 

From  a  Photo. 


We  had  collected  a  few  loads  of  food  for  our 
journey  round  the  inhospitable  country  to  the 
north  and  west  of  Mount  Kenia,  and  only  waited 
for  a  favourable  opportunity  to  start.  At  last 
it  came,  and  we  bade  farewell  to  our  friends 
in  M'thara.  Kroin  the  first  the  travelling  was 
wretched.  It  rained  hard  day  after  day,  and 
as  we  ascended  the  lower  slopes  of  the  mountains 
the  air  grew  chilly,  and  altogether  matters  were 
as  uncomfortable  as  they  could  possibly  be. 
We  kept  dogijedly  on,  however,  and  put  mile 
after  mile  behind  us  as  we  advanced  steadily 
homeward.  Soon  the  country  grew  more  open, 
and  we  traversed  vast  undulated  uplands  covered 
with  short  green  gra.ss.  Several  herds  of  zebra 
gf'/-'!  'iKJUt,  but  they  were  so  shy  that  it  was 
i:  le  to  get  within  range,  though  we  tried 

freijuently,    as    our    food    supply    was    again 


running  low.  These  uplands  were  divided  by 
enormous  ravines,  which  radiated  from  the 
central  peak  of  Kenia  like  the  spokes  of  a 
wheel.  They  were  densely  forested.  Immense 
cedars  and  podocarpus  of  enormous  growth 
abounded  on  every  side.  Several  large  rivers 
flow  northwards  from  Kenia,  eventually  joining 
the  ^V^^so  Nyiro,  which  itself  rises  in  North- 
^Vest  Kenia. 

As  seen  from  the  north,  the  central  peak  of 
this  stupendous  mountain  presents  a  magnifi- 
cent appearance.  Though  situated  only  a  few 
miles  south  of  the  Equator,  its  altitude  is  so  great 
that  it  is  crowned  with  everlasting  snow.  The 
sides  of  the  peak  are  so  precipitous  in  places 
that  the  snow  has  no  hold  and  falls  off,  leaving 
exposed  great  patches  of  bare  black  rock.  I 
managed  to  secure  a  photograph   of  the  peak 


KKOM   THU   SOU TM-WiUtT— SKVKKAL    I.AKCI-:    RIVERS    HAVE   THKIR    SOURCES  NEAR   THIS  GREAT   PEAK. 

From  a   /V/^iA>. 


SPORT    AND    ADN'ENTUKE     IN     CAIJ.AI.ANU. 


'■25 


from  the  north  side,  when  for  a  few  iiioments 
it  happened  to  be  partially  uncovered  by  the 
drifting  cloud-hanks,  which  sometimes  conceal  it 
for  weeks  together. 

After   ten    days'    marching    we    reached  the 
Masai  settlement  at   Kwa  Ngombe,  or  N'doro, 


thickly-poi)ulated  country  to  Maranga,  where 
we  were  warmly  welcomed  by  the  chief,  our 
old  friend  Manga.  We  were  detained  here  a 
fortnight  by  the  flooded  condition  of  the  Tana 
River,  but  eventually  got  across  safely  with  all 
our  impedimenta.     We  found  that  the  Govern- 


From  a\ 


A    MASAI    CHIEF   AND    HIS   MEDICINE    MAN. 


\Photo. 


in  SouthA\'est  Keiiia,  first  visited  in  1S87  l)y 
Count  Teleki,  the  discoverer  of  Lakes  Rudolph 
and  Stephanie,  who,  indeed,  is  the  only  other 
white  man  who  has  been  there.  We  were  not 
very  hospitably  received,  as  the  Masai  chief 
demanded  a  heavy  tribute,  which  we  emphati- 
cally refused  to  pay,  and  he  left  our  camp  in  a 
very  abrupt  and  discourteous  manner.  At  this 
l)lace  we  procured  guides,  who  took  us  through 


ment  had  built  a  new  station  and  fort  at  Mbiii, 
a  matter  of  a  couple  of  hours'  walk  from  the 
Tana,  and  here,  in  the  person  of  the  officer  in 
charge  of  the  troops,  we  saw  the  first  white 
face  we  had  seen  for  six  months.  On  leaving 
M'biri  a  march  of  eiglit  or  ten  days  took  us 
safely  into  Nairobi  and  civilization,  and  thus 
ended  our  expedition  to  Mount  Kenia  and  the 
Waso  Nyiro. 


Vol.  xi.-29. 


^@w  THiTlRlgAJOR 


JAVED 


'><; 


J}v   loiiN   I).   Li.ckii;,  oi-  \'ii,i.A   Rica,  Paraguay. 


The  writer  was  formerly  accountant  of  the  Yuruari  Gold  Mine,  in  Venezuela,  and  here  relates  how 
the  officials  of  a  neighbouring  mine  saved    their  monthly  shipment  of  bullion,    value  £6,000,  from 

the  clutches  of  a  revolutionary  leader. 


liOU'I'  twelve  years  ago  1    was   for- 

tt-     etioiigli    to    be    appointed 

I  lit. ml  of  the  V'uruari  Mine,  in 
•J  kepiiijiic  of  Venezuela.  This  is 
uiw  of  the  smaller  .States  of  .S[Kiiiish 
America,  where  a  revolution  is  always  going  on, 
just  over,  or  just  about  to  coninience.  When  I 
reached  t!  ,  sore  all  over  after  a  four  days' 

rid ,  a  revolution  had  just  ended. 

*I  •  liail  succeeded  in  defeating  the 

(iovernincni  iroijjjs,  entered  the  capital,  and  pro- 

■'^    I '    '   'nr.     Hut    we    were    not 

„  in  peace  and  political 

iillity,  OH  the  following  incident  will  show. 

■  from  us  there  was  another  very  rich 

r.    _ ■   known  as  I*',!  Callao,  the  manager  of 

which  wa.s  an  American.  There  was  a  large 
mill  of  many  siamfw  attached  to  this  mine,  and 
"' ■'  '  ■  '  'iv  ''i  h  .ivy  |)ounding  of  these 
■^f  .     I    I  .|   the  c|uarl/  rock,  never 

<  r.ised,  .ind  could  be  heard  miles  away.  As  the 
tiuart/  was  rru.shed  it   was  carried   by  currents 


of  water  over  tables  inlaid  with  quicksilver, 
which  retained  the  particles  of  gold,  but  allowed 
the  dross  to  esca{)e.  Once  a  month  the 
"amalgam,"  as  the  mixture  of  (]uicksilver  and 
gold  is  termetl,  was  retorted,  in  order  to  obtain 
the  pure  gold,  which  was  then  cast  into  bars 
and  in  this  form  dispatched  as  bullion  to  the 
nearest  port,  whence  the  mining  company's 
agent  forwarded  it  to  Europe. 

A  small  armed  escort  was  sent  willi  ihc  gold 
as  far  as  the  town  of  El  Callao,  some  eight 
miles  distant,  whence  a  more  powerful  party 
conveyed  it  to  the  coast,  about  one  hundred 
and  fifty  miles  away. 

One  fine  morning— it  was  bullion  day— the 
officials  saw  a  man  approaching  the  mine  at  full 
galloj).  He  evidently  had  important  news  to 
communicate,  for  in  thai  sweltering  tropical 
(limate  no  one  woukl  ever  gallop  along  that 
hilly  road  unless  there  was  some  very  urgent 
necessity  for  it. 

In  a  few  minutes  nioie  he  reined  up  his  horse, 


HOW   nil.    ikEAsuRh:   was   sa\i:i) 


22" 


all  pantitip  anil  covered  witli  foam,  in  front  of 
tlie  veranda.  "There  is  not  a  moment  to  be 
lost,"  he  shouted.      "  A  revolution   has  broken 

out  at  ('iuaci[)ati,  and  deneral  X has  seized 

the  town.  He  knows  that  the  bullion  is  to  be 
sent  down  to-day  and  is  preparing  to  seize  it. 
When  I  left  he  was  getting  ready  a  troop  to 
intercept  the  escort  I  " 

For  some  little  time  previously  there  had  been 
rumours  of  an  impending  revolution,  but  in  the 
Republic  of  \'enezuela  the  air  is  always  full  of 
such  rumours,  and  little  importance  is  attached 
to  them.  At  any  rate,  it  was  never  expected 
that  the  rising  would  take  place  so  suddenly, 
nor  in  such  close  proximity  to  the  mine. 

(ieneral    X —    was    a    well  -  known    local 

character — a  regular  fire-eater,  who  was  always 
to  the  front  in  times  of  political  excitement,  and 
was  in  his  element  when  a  revolution  was  in 
progress.  In  times  of  peace  he  devoted  his 
energies  to  editing  a  small  weekly  paper,  which 
seemed  to  exist  chiefly  for  the  purpose  of  viru- 
lently attacking  his  enemies  and  opponents. 
The  mine  officials  were  now  informed  that  he 
had  obtained  the  co-operation  of  the  garrison 
of  less  than  one  hundred  men  stationed  at 
("luacipati,  had  seized  the  (jovernment  offices, 
and  was  now  busy  impressing  men  into  his 
service. 

The  officials  knew  they  were  likely  to  have  a 
warm  time  at  the  hands  of  this  man,  and  that 
not  a  moment  was  to  be  lost.  The  amalgamator 
had  just  finished  packing  the  gold  bars  for 
shipment.  There  were  some  fifteen  hundred 
ounces  of  gold,  worth  about  six  thousand 
pounds,  which  would   form  a  welcome  addition 

to  (ieneral  X 's  exchequer,  if  he  could  get 

it — which  they  determined  he  should  not.  No 
doubt  even  at  that  moment  he  was  calling  for 
volunteers,  holding  out  as  an  inducement  a 
share  in  the  rich  booty,  which  in  anticipation 
was  already  his. 

A  council  of  war,  composed  of  the  principal 
mine  officials,  was  at  once  convened,  in  order  to 
discuss  the  best  course  to  be  taken. 

It  was  inadvisable  to  leave  the  gold  where  it 
was,  as  it  would  certainly  fall  into  the  hands  of 
the  insurgents.  To  conceal  it  would  be  scarcely 
less  risky.  The  only  practical  method  of  hiding 
it  would  be  to  bury  it  in  some  concealed  s[)ot, 
and  this  could  not  be  done  without  taking  so 
many  people  into  their  confidence  that  the 
burial  place  would  be  an  open  secret.  Neither 
Were  they  inclined  to  follow  the  method  ado|)te(l 
by  the  tyrant  Lopez  of  Paraguay  when  he  wished 
to  conceal  his  treasure  chest,  as  not  unfrequently 
happened  when  he  was  pursued  by  the  enemy  in 
his  war  with  lirazil.  His  modus  operandi  w^x^^  to 
order  a  few  soldiers  to  dig  a  trench  in  a  secluded 


spot  and  bury  the  treasure  in  his  presence. 
When  this  was  done  and  the  men  had  returned 
to  camp,  a  firing -party  was  told  off  to  shoot 
these  unfortunates,  on  the  princii)le  that  "dead 
men  tell  no  tales." 

Various  modes  of  disposing  of  the  treasure 
were  suggested,  and  all  in  turn  rejected  as 
impracticaljle.  At  last  the  engineer,  who  had 
been  meditating  for  some  time  in  silence, 
suddenly  exclaimed,  "  I  have  it !  I  know  of  a 
method  by  which  we  can  cheat  these  bandits  of 
their  prey.  What  I  propose  is  this  :  Put  all  the 
gold  into  the  safe  and  then  leave  it  in  the 
engine-room.  I  can  fill  the  room  with  scalding 
steam  in  five  minutes,  and  I  warrant  that  no 
one  will  touch  it  while  it  is  there." 

A  shout  of  approval  greeted  the  suggestion, 
which  was  unanimously  ado{)ted,  and  the 
officials  proceeded  as  one  man  to  carry  out  the 
proposed  plan.  In  another  moment  the  gold 
was  locked  in  the  big  safe,  which  was  then 
deposited  in  a  waggon  and  carried  to  the  engine- 
room  adjoining  the  mill.  The  mill  was  a  large 
structure,  its  walls  principally  composed  of 
galvanized  iron,  but  the  engine-room  was 
stronjjlv  built  of  brick.  As  soon  as  the  safe  had 
been  lodged  in  its  new  quarters  the  doors  and 
windows  were  strongly  barred  up,  and  the  room 
was  filled  with  superheated  steam. 

Nor  had  this  been  done  a  moment  too  soon, 
for  shortly  after  the  officials  returned  to  the 
house,  on  looking  out  from  the  veranda,  they 
saw  a  cavalcade  appear  on  the  crest  of  the 
opposite  hill.  As  it  passed  over  the  hill  it 
seemed  to  grow  in  numbers  until  they  could  see 
that  it  was  composed  of  a  troop  of  at  least 
three  hundred  mounted  men.  It  was  not  a 
large  force  from  a  military  point  of  view,  but  it 
was  impossible  for  the  officials  to  show  any  active 
resistance,  for,  although  they  had  more  than  four 
hundred  men  at  the  mine,  they  could  not  arm 
more  than  twenty  or  thirty,  and  in  any  case  no 
reliance  could  be  placed  on  the  majority  of  the 
workers.  Indeed,  as  soon  as  they  heard  of  the 
approach  of  the  insurgents  nearly  all  the  able- 
bodied  men  took  to  the  woods,  afraid  of  being 
impressed  into  the  service  of  the  rebels.  There 
was  nothing  to  be  done,  therefore,  but  to  await 
the  course  of  events. 

As  the  cavalcade  approached  the  officials 
could  see  that  it  was  headed  by  the  general  him- 
self. As  he  drew  near  he  rose  in  his  saddle  and 
shouted,  "  Hurrah  for  the  Reds  !  "  this  being 
the  designation  of  the  political  party  he  repre- 
sented, their  opponents  being  known  as  the 
"  Blues,"  from  their  respective  colours. 

"("rood  morning,  Mr. ,"  he  said,  address- 
ing the  manager,  who  was  by  no  means  a  friend 
of"  his.      "I    iiave  a   little    business  to   do  with 


228 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


you.  I  hear  that  you  have  a  quantity  of  gold 
ready  for  shipment.  It  is  not  safe  to  send  it 
along  the  road  in  the  present  state  of  affairs,  but 
I  will  take  care  of  it  for  you.  You  are  aware 
that  a  revolution  has  just  been  proclaimed. 
In  the  name  of  the  Provisional  Government, 
which  I  represent,  I  request  you  to  hand  me 
the  treasure  without  delay." 

The  manager,  evidently  fuming   at  this  im- 
pudent sjieech,  nevertheless  retained  his  com- 


has  flown  ;  but  it  will  not  be  for  long.  I  will 
find  out  that  safe  even  though  you  have  buried 
it  in  the  bowels  of  the  earth." 

Meanwhile,  the  general's  troops  had  been 
busy  "  recruiting  volunteers,"  as  he  termed  it, 
among  the  workmen  employed  in  the  mine. 
As  I  have  already  said,  nearly  all  these  had  dis- 
appeared on  the  approach  of  the  revolutionists, 
knowing  only  too  well  from  former  experiences 
what  they  might  expect.     The  soldiers,  however, 


^^T^jJ^. 


"  '  PATHIOTIC   VOI.UNTEKRS    1..     nil-.   lAUSE   OF    I.IBERTV,'    HE    EXCLAIMED.' 


this 


<1  :  "  You  have  come  a  little 
TIk-    gold    was    dispatched 


ft) 


ily.      I     knew    the    danger   of 
.;  It  111  the  u.sual  way,  and  sent  it  by  a 

"Is.     1  he  escort 

I   by  this  time." 

lid    not   have   the   desired 

<  (txriaimed,    "  You 

i  "■•'•V  the  gold  [H/iere/ 

If  vou  do  not  deliver  it  I   shall  take   it  myself." 

')y  a   numerous  follow 

■■'^'    ""     '"'    "  ')    '"  'he   safe  -  room,   ih-- 

position  of  whi<  h  was  well  known. 

"  ila  !  "  he  said,  as  he  noted   the  absence  f)f 
the  ponderous  iron  case.     "  I  see  that  the  bird 


managed  to  capture  about  a  score  of  them,  and 
these  were  brought  in,  roped  together  to  prevent 
their  escape. 

The  general,  who  had  been  occupied  in  organ- 
izing two  search  parlies,  one  to  descend  the 
mine  and  explore  its  hidden  depths,  while 
another  party  performed  the  same  duty  above- 
ground,  now  thought  it  well  to  step  forward  and 
address  these  new  "recruits."  "  Patriotic  volun- 
teers in  the  cause  of  liberty,"  lie  exclaimed,  in  a 
grandiose  fashion,  "a  grateful  country  will 
not  be  unmindful  of  your  noble  endeavours. 
.Sergeant,  see  that  the.se  heroic  fellows  receive 
their  just  share  of  the  contribution  (  !  )  with 
which  this  mine  is  about  to  assist  us." 


HOW    THE    TREASURE    WAS    SAVED. 


229 


As  he  spoke  a  troop  of  horses  and  mules 
was  driven  up.  'I'hese  were  the  company's 
property,  whieh  had  evidently  been  forcibly 
"commandeered"  from  the  stables.  The 
nian:i<^er  was  about  to  protest,  but  the  general 
anticipated  htm.  "  We  are  not  thieves,''  he 
said  ;  "  we  require  your  animals  for  a  little  while, 
but  they  will  be  returned  to  you,  or  I  will 
give  you  notes  for  their  value,  which  will  be 
cashed  by  the  Provisional  Government."  The 
manager  was  apparently  not  satisfied  with  this 
assurance,  but  protest  was  unavailing. 

Hut  a  ray  of  hope  now  came  from  another 
quarter.  .\  negro  boy  named  Pompey,  who  had 
just    ridden    in    at    full    gallop    from    Callao, 


unaware  of  the  fact.  The  ofificials'  main  object 
now  was  to  gain  time,  in  the  hoi)e  that  help 
would  arrive  before  the  rebels  were  able  to 
accomplish  their  purpose. 

Meanwhile  the  search  parties  had  been  busy. 
The  safe  was  too  large  to  be  easily  concealed,  so 
that  it  did  not  take  them  long  to  search  every 
corner.  The  mill  was  the  last  place  to  be  over- 
hauled. As  they  approached  the  engine-room 
and  noticed  that  the  doors  and  windows  had 
been  heavily  barricaded,  they  at  once  jumped 
to  the  conclusion  that  the  safe  was  to  be  found 
inside.  Seizing  a  bar  of  iron  from  the  mill,  one 
of  the  most  adventurous  spirits,  not  without 
some  difificulty,  broke  open  a  window.      At  the 


-:iijvF'!fc, 


''  A   JET   OF   SCAI.DI.Nt;    STKAM    SHOT  OU  r. 


Stealthily  approached  the  manager  and  con- 
trived to  hand  him,  unobserved,  a  note  of  which 
he  was  the  bearer.  This  was  from  the  com- 
pany's agent  in  town,  and  informed  the  manager 
that  the  (lovernment  troops  were  in  pursuit  of 
the  revolutionists.  An  armed  body  had  been 
hastily  collected  and  dispatched  to  El  Callao, 
according  to  telegraphic  advices  just  received, 
and  might  arrive  at  any  moment.  This  was 
good  news,  for  the  revolutionists  were  apparently 


same  moment  a  jet  of  scalding  steam  shot  out, 
and  with  a  piercing  yell  the  man  fell  back, 
clapping  his  hands  to  his  face  and  writhing  with 
pain.  His  companions  drew  near  cautiously, 
l)ut  all  their  attempts  to  break  in  were  unavail- 
ing, for  they  had  too  great  a  respect  for  the 
scalding  vapour  to  approach  too  closely. 

Cries  of  rage  and  bitter  imprecations  filled 
the  air,  as  the  intruders  saw  themselves  baffled. 
But  only  for  a  moment.     A  shout  of  "  Dyna- 


Till':     WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


mite  ! "  was  heard,  and  the  suggestion  was  greeted 
with  loud  cheers.  There  was  a  large  quantity 
of  dynamite  at  the  mine,  where  it  was  required 
for  bl.v"  nurposes.  The  store  in  which  it 
was  li  ,  1   was    about   a   mile   distant,   as 

owing  to  its  dangerous  nature  it  was  thought 
prudent  to  keep  it  stored  in  a  secluded  spot. 
Its  position,  however,  was  well  known  to  the 
assailants,  and  a  party  was  at  once  told  off  to 
obtain  a  quantity.  The  hopes  of  the  officials 
sank  once  more  as  they  saw  the  new  turn  affairs 
had  taken.  The  only  prospect  of  saving  the 
^old  lay  in  the  chance  that  the  Government 
troops  might  arrive  before  the  robbers  were 
able  to  gel  ofT  with  their  booty. 

In  less  than  half  an  hour  the  party  returned 
with  several  cases  containing  dynamite.  The 
veranda  where  the  little  group  of  officials  stood 
commanded  a  complete  view  of  their  operations. 
In  a  few  minutes  more  the  dynamite  was  laid, 
and  exploded  with  a  dull  thud.  A  large  breach 
was  made  in  the  engine-room,  one  side  of  it 
being  completely  destroyed,  while  a  cloud  of 
mingled  steam  and  debris  shot  skyward.  The 
robbers  gave  a  loud  cheer  as  they  saw  the 
success  which  had  crowned  their  efibrt.s,  for 
ihcy  obtained  a  view  of  the  coveted  safe  lying 
on  its  side  inside  the  room. 

Hut  the  siife  was  still  intact.  It  was  locked, 
and  required  to  be  "  cracked "  before  they 
could  gain  i)ossession  of  the  treasure  it  con- 
tained. Again  recourse  was  had  to  dynamite  ; 
another  dull  thud  was  heard,  another  cheer,  and 
the  brigands  rushed  upon  their  prey. 

Ml  .1,:    .;..,,.  (1,^.  (Jistracted  officials  had  been 

*-'aK  ing    the   opposite   hillside    in    the 

hojK.-  of  tliscovering  some  trace  of  the  Govern- 

S  but  hitherto  without  success.     For 

V  moments   their  attention  had  been 

!  on  the  operations  of  the  bandits, 

to    say,    they   followed    with 

i-ent.     'I'hcn  once    more   they 

11!  the  direction  of  the  hill. 


A  squad  of  horsemen  was  now  seen  approach- 
ing at  a  rapid  pace.  Were  they  the  expected 
rescuers  or  were  they  only  another  party  of 
General  X — — 's  followers  ?  "J'he  excitement 
was  intense,  but  of  short  duration.  A  friendly 
gust  of  wind  unfurled  the  flag  held  by  one  of 
the  approaching  party,  and  the  little  band  of 
watchers  recognised  with  heartfelt  joy  the 
Government  colours. 

A  loud  cheer  burst  involuntarily  from  their 
throats  as  they  saw  the  welcome  spectacle. 
"Cheer  again  with  all  your  might,"  cried  the 
manager,  and  they  gave-  a  shout  that  must  have 
been  heard  m  the  town  of  Callao  The  loud 
cheering,  as  had  been  intended,  distracted  the 
attention  of  the  robbers,  who  at  once  guessed 
the  cause  of  it.  With  muttered  imprecations 
they  abandoned  the  safe,  sprang  into  their  sad- 
dles, and  galloped  off  in  the  opposite  direction 
from  the  advancing  troops.  In  a  few  minutes 
more  these  latter,  numbering  in  all  some  five 
hundred,  arrived  and  were  warmly  greeted. 

The  staff,  as  may  be  imagined,  were  in  a  fever 
of  suspense  to  know  if  the  treasure  had  been 
carried  off.  They  lost  no  time  in  repairing  to 
the  w'recked  engine-house,  and  found  to  their 
joy  that,  although  the  robbers  had  succeeded  in 
forcing  the  outer  door  of  the  safe,  the  inner  lid 
— for  the  safe  had  strong  double  doors  — was 
still  intact  and  the  treasure  consequently  safe. 
It  seems  that  the  robbers  had  been  too  liberal 
in  their  use  of  the  dynamite,  and  had  exhausted 
their  supply  when  they  forced  open  the  outer 
door,  being  apparently  unaware  that  there  was 
still  another  plate  of  iron  between  them  and 
the  coveted  gold. 

The  Government  troops  only  remained  long 
enough  to  exchange  a  hurried  conversation,  and 
then  galloped  off  in  hot  pursuit  of  the  enemy. 
These   were    presently   overtaken   and  a    fierce 

combat  ensued,    in   which  General  X was 

ca|)tured  and  the  remnant  of  his  followers  dis- 
persed.    So  ended  an  abortive  revolution. 


A  TARDY  VINDICATION. 


]1\     MuilAII.     KoLKIl'ITZ. 


A  remarkable  romance  of  real  life.  Many  years  ago  Count  Theodore  Kazimoff,  a  young  and  wealthy 
Russian  nobleman,  quarrelled  with  his  bosom  friend  about  a  girl.  The  two  became  reconciled,  but 
subsequently,  when  they  were  hunting  together,  the  friend  disappeared,  his  lifeless  body  being  after- 
wards discovered  concealed  in  a  snow-bank.  Count  Kazimoff  was  accused  of  the  murder,  found  guilty, 
and  sentenced  to  banishment  for  life  to  Siberia.  By  the  death-bed  confession  of  the  real  murderer 
the   unfortunate  nobleman  has  been  proved  entirely  innocent,  and  has  just  returned  to  St.  Petersburg 

after  fifty  years  of  exile,   an  old  and  broken  man. 


X  .some  respects  Count  Tolstoy's 
powerful  novel,  "Resurrection,"  is 
not  so  dramatic  or  absorbing  as  the 
life-story  of  a  worn,  sad-faced  old 
man  who  recently  stepped  feebly 
from  the  Moscow  exj^rcss  at  the  Central  Station 
at  St.  Petersburg  and,  with  the  help  of  a  young 
man  who  accompanied  him,  entered  the  sleigh 
wailing  to  convey  him  to  the  family  residence 
of  the  Ka/imoffs.  'J"his 
old  man  was  Count 
Theodore  Kazimoff,  who 
has  just  relumed  from 
Siberia,  whilher  he  was 
exiled  exactly  fifty  years 
ago  for  the  murder  of 
his  best  friend,  Count 
Demetri  Dolgorouki. 

For  fifty  long  years 
Count  Kazimoff  prayed 
for  death  in  a  Siberian 
l^enal  settlement,  crushed 
by  the  severity  of  his 
punishment  and  by  the 
knowledge  that  all  his 
relatives  and  friends  be- 
lieved him  to  be  guilty 
(jf  the  atrocious  crime  for 
which  he  had  been  coti- 
denined.  Now,  after  all 
these  years  of  physical 
suffering  and  mental 
agony,  it  has  been  dis- 
covered that  Count  Kazi- 
moff was  entirely  innocent 
of  the    murder  of  which 

lie  was  accused,  and  a  pardon  granted  by  the 
( "zar  has  enabled  him  to  return  to  his  old  home 
in  St.  Petersburg  to  die  in  liberty,  with  every 
stain  removed  from  his  character. 

Few  lives  have  been  more  tragic  than  that  of 
Count  Kazimoff,  and  few  innocent  men  have 
luul    to  undergo  so  terrible  an   ordeal   as   that 


lOLNI'    I  HEOIJOKE    KAZIMOKK    AT   THE    A(iK   OK    SI-.VKNTV-ITVK, 
JUST    BEKORK    HIS    RETURN    FROM    SIIIERIA. 

From  a  Photo. 


which  he  has  gone  through.  Yet,  as  things 
have  turned  out,  he  must  be  thankful  that  his 
prayer  for  speedy  death  was  not  answered,  and 
that  he  has  lived  long  enough  for  his  innocence 
to  be  established  before  all  the  world. 

"J"he  beginning  of  this  remarkable  story  takes 
us  back  to  the  year  1852,  when  Count  Theodore 
Kazimoff  was  a  dashing  )oung  officer  in  ihe 
cavalry  guards.      His  father  was  the  head  of  the 

Kazimoffs,  one  of  the 
foremost  of  the  noble 
families  of  the  Russian 
Knipire,  and,  being  the 
eldest  son.  Count  Theo- 
dore was  the  heir  to  the 
greater  part  of  the  vast 
estates  and  wealth  which 
his  forefathers  had  accu- 
mulated. The  magnifi- 
cent heritage  that  awaited 
him  consisted  of  half  a 
million  acres  of  Uuul  in 
various  parts  of  Russia, 
thirteen  palaces  and 
castles,  besides  some 
score  of  hunting  lodges, 
summer  villas. and  smaller 
residences,  and  a  fortune 
estimated  at  three  million 
pounds. 

He  was  twenty  -  five 
years  of  age,  tall,  hand- 
some, and  the  darling  of 
St.  Petersbuig  society, 
and  his  supeiior  officers 
prophesied  for  him  a 
distinguished  military  career.  In  short.  Count 
Kazimoff  seemed  to  i)ossess  everything  required 
to  make  a  young  man  hapjiy,  and  certainly 
few  men  can  hope  to  enjoy  life  more  than  he 
did  on  Ihe  e\e  of  the  tragedy  lliat  was  about  to 
overwhelm  him. 

Count  Demetri  Dolgorouki,  his  most  intimate 


232 


THE   WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


friend,  was  a  yonng  man  in  similarly  lortunate 
circumstances.  He,  too,  was  an  eldest  son  and 
the  heir  to  immense  wealth  and  estates,  hardly 
less  extensive  than  those  of  Count  Kazimoff",  on 
which  they  bordered.  The  two  had  been 
schoolboys  together,  had  gone  through  the 
University,  had  made  a  foreign  tour  together, 
and  were  the  best  of  friends  till  a  woman  came 
between  them.  This  was  a  girl  named  Fedora 
lebloff,  the  daughter  of  the  house-porter  at  the 
club  which  both  the  young  officers  frequented. 
Fedora  Tebloff  was  at  that  time  nineteen 
years  old  and,  according  to  the  standards  of 
■  ■  ■       itiful— a  fact    of  which   she  was 

j.  .: aware.     She  was  coquettish  in  the 

extreme,  and  always 
had  a  bevy  of  ad- 
mirers in  her  wake. 
Count  Ka/imofT  was 
her  chosen  favourite 
until,  in  an  evil  hour 
lor  all  parties  con- 
cerned, he  introduced 
his  friend  Dolgorouki 
to  her.  The  fickle 
maiden  (juickly  trans- 
ferred her  affections 
to  the  new  comer. 

Count   Ka/imoff 
sjjared  no  pains  to  re- 
gain Fedora's  favour, 
but  Dolgorouki 
did  his  utmost 
to  supplant  his 
comrade,     so 
that    the    old 
friendship     I)e- 
Iween    the    two 
vm!iii'  men  de- 

intothe 

hatred. 


'tween 


found    Dolgo 
rouki    in    Fe 


hand. to  hand  ";,:;r,;::; 


->l  1  ili;L:ir- 


I  ID.S'  TO 


A  duel  was  the  inevitable  result,  and  this  was 

ht  on  the  following  day  in  a  field  on  the 

'  "'  ^'    '  "TK-     Swords  were  used, 

''■'"  " ".  both  skilled  in  the  use 

<>'    t  .[K>n,    fought   as   only   the  deadliest 

t,  with  the  evident  intention  to  kill. 

•      '  '  •    "'ame  clear  that  Count  Kazimoff  had 


found  his  master,  and  in  the  fiflii  round  he 
received  a  wound  in  the  right  arm  which  dis- 
abled him  and  caused  the  seconds  to  put  an  end 
to  the  duel. 

The  combatants  shook  hands  at  the  finish, 
and  Count  Kazimoff  expressed  a  desire  that 
their  old  friendsliip  might  be  revived  and  the 
cause  of  tlieir  enmity  forgotten.  The  recon- 
ciliation seemed  complete,  and  not  long  after- 
wards Dolgorouki  accepted  an  invitation  from 
Kazimoff  to  go  hunting  on  his  estate  at  Ljuhjana, 
in  the  province  of  Novgorod. 

On  the  tliird  day  of  their  stay  came  the 
tragedy  that  meant  death  to  the  one  and  lifelong 
penal   servitude   to   the   other.       Kazimoff   and 

Dolgorouki  were  out  hunt- 
ing together,  and  the  topic 
of  Fedora  Tebloff  seems 
to  have  been  raised  again, 
for  the  hunts  in  en  and 
beaters  in  attendance  on 
them  noticed  that  the  two 
noblemen  were  engaged 
111  a  hot  dispute. 

At  the   height  of  their 
quarrel,   when    both    men 
were     beside     themselves 
with     passion,     they    sud- 
denly found  they  were  at 
clo.se    quarters   with    two 
wild  boars,  and  started  off 
in   haste  to  get  a  shot  at 
the  game.      The 
attendants    were 
left  far  behind,  but 
they     heard     the 
sound  of 
many    gun- 
shots, and 
con  c  1  u  d  e  d 
that  the  two 
noblemen 
were  having 
good  sport. 
Nearly 
a  n    h  o  u  r 
later  Count 
Kazimoff 
rejoined  the 
p  arty    of 
beaters  and 
in  ([  u  i  r  ed 
where    Dol- 
g  o  r  o  u  k  i 
was.       Dolgorouki,     however,     had     not     been 
seen,  and  as  he  did  not  jjut  in  an  appearance 
when     darkness    set    in    a    search    was    made 
for  him,  but  in   vain.      Ne.xt  day  the  quest  was 
renewed,  and,  guided   by  marks  of  blood,  the 


T  wrni 

Kll.l_" 


A    TARDY    VINDICATION. 


^'33 


rescue  party  found  his  dead  body  buried  in  ten 
feet  of  snow  about  half  a  mile  from  the  spot 
where  he  had  last  been  seen  in  the  c'om|iany  of 
his  host.  Count  Ka/.imoff  was  at  once  arrested 
on  suspicion  of  having  committed  the  murder. 

Tlie  evidence  against  the  Count  was  over- 
whelming. The  enmity  between  the  two  young 
men,  which  had  led  to  the  duel,  the  sudden 
reconciliation,  the  invitation  to  hunt  on  Ka/.i- 
moff s  estate,  the  renewed  (luarrel,  and  the  gun- 
shots   heard     by    the    beaters,    all    pointed   to 


the  presence  of  the  officers  and  men  of  Kazimoff's 
regiment.  He  was  brought  to  the  parade-ground 
in  chains,  and  two  private  soldiers  stripjied 
him  of  his  uniform  and  dressed  him  in  convict's 
garb  before  the  eyes  of  the  assembled  regiment. 
This  accomplished,  they  took  his  sword  out  of 
its  scabbard,  broke  it,  and  beat  him  with  the 
blunt  edge  of  the  severed  halves. 

Next,  one  half  of  Kazimoff  s  head  was  shaved 
clean  and  the  hair  on  the  remaining  half  rro[iped 
close.     Finally  he  was  led  round  in  front  of  the 


lllli   CASTLE   AND   ESTATE   OF    LJUUJANA,    WHERE   COUNT    UEMETRI    DOI.GOROUKI    WAS   MURUERED. 

From  a  Photo. 


Kazimoff's  guilt.  He  was  accused  of  having 
feigned  reconciliation  with  Dolgorouki  in  order 
to  lure  him  to  his  remote  estate,  there  to  butcher 
him  in  the  woods,  confident  in  the  assumption 
that  his  own  retainers  would  not  give  evidence 
against  him.  No  stranger  had  been  seen  in  the 
neighbourhood  for  weeks,  and  no  one  else  was 
in  that  part  of  the  forest  when  the  crime  was 
committed. 

Kazimoff  protested  his  innocence,  but  his 
declarations  were  disregarded,  and  he  was  found 
guilty  of  murder  and  sentenced  to  death.  This 
sentence  was  commuted  to  one  of  lifelong 
banishment  to  Siberia,  with  i)enal  servitude  for 
the  first  ten  years.  Hefore  his  start  eastwards 
Count  Kazimoff  had  to  undergo  the  terrible 
ordeal  of  being  formally  degraded  from  his  rank 
as  an  officer.  This  ceremony,  which  is  more 
relentlessly  .severe  in  Ru.ssia  than  in  any  other 
country — worse  even  than  the  ordeal  Dreyfus 
had  to  undergo   in    I'Yance — was  performed  in 

Vol.  xi.-  30. 


ranks,  while  the  two  soldiers  showered  blows  on 
his  bare  back  with  the  dreaded  knouts  used 
by  the  Cossacks.  This  custom,  it  is  interesting 
to  note,  is  still  practised  in  Russia  in  cases  of 
degradation  of  officers  from  their  rank. 

Count  Kazimoff  broke  down  utterly 
before  the  degrading  ceremony  was  half  over, 
wept  bitterly,  and  toward  the  end  had  to  be 
dragged  round  in  a  fainting  condition.  A  day 
or  two  later  he  started  on  his  long  and  terrible 
journey  to  Siberia.  To  put  the  finishing  touch 
to  his  misery  the  last  two  items  of  news  that  he 
heard  from  the  outside  world  before  leaving  St. 
Petersburg  were  that  \\\%  fiamce  had  become  the 
lietrothed  of  another  man,  and  that  l-'edora 
Tebloff  had  cursed  him  as  the  murderer  of  her 
lover  I  )olgorouki. 

Kazimoff  was  henceforth  "Convict  108,"  and 
was  disi)atched  into  e.xile  in  com|)any  with  a 
gang  of  other  unfortunates  condemned  to  the 
same  fate.     They  were  chained  together  and,  as 


234 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


was  customary  in  those  days,  did  the  Avhole  of 
the  journey  on  foot,  goaded  by  the  cruel  knouts 
of  the  Cossacks  sent  to  escort  them. 

Their  destination  was  Zistan,  some  hundred 
miles  north  of  Tomsk,  and  on  arrival  there  they 
were  put  to 
work  in  the 
mines.  Kazi- 
m  o  f  f  was 
chained  night 
and   day   to 


"C--- 


.rr   WA»    KItPATCtll'.O    INTO    KXII.K    IN    COMI'ANV   WITH    A    GANG    OK    OTHKK    UNPORTUNATES 


r  loiiMcts,   all   coarse,    hiulal   fellows, 

■J    i)UiiishrniM)t    for    crimes    of    excej)- 

W'hat    torture  this    permanent 

111(1  this  forci'd  association  wilii 

man  (A  Ka/.imcjffs  stamp  m:iy 


Uf> 

tional 

Inck  ot  i 

ruffuns  V. 

well  Ik;  r  i. 

For  ten  h-  ry  day  the  five  prisoners  had 

to  work  toj^eiii-  I  III  the  mines,  and  at  ni^hl  they 
slejtt  together  in  a  miseraMe  hut.  WIkii  there 
V.  to  be  done  the  four  plebeian  criminals 

<'  '     "   ^ive   their   aristoi  ralic  companion 

th'-       _,„  .hare  of  it,  and   when    lalions   were 


served  out  they  took  care  that  he  received  the 
stnallest  share.  When  they  found  that  he 
would  not  participate  in  their  coarse  conversa- 
tion, they  beat  and  kicked  him  "to  knock  the 
pride  out  of  him,"  as  they  put  it. 

Kazimoff    was    not    al- 
ways chained  to  tlie  same 
ruffians,     and    soinetitiies 
his  immediate  compatuons 
were  kind  enough,  if  rough 
and  far  too  uneducated  to 
be  real  company  to  him  ; 
but    during   the   ten  long 
years    that    it    lasted    this 
penal  servitude  in  chains 
was  literally  a   hell   upon 
earth  for  the  unhappy  ex- 
favourite  of  high  society 
in  St.  Petersburg. 
It  is  a  mystery 
how     Kazimoff 
ived    through 
these  terrible  years 
at  all,  for  when 
they     were     over 
he  reseml)led  a 
broketi-dowti  man 
of  seventy,  though 
he  was  only  thirty- 
five.    Thenceforth 
he  was  allowed  to 
nhabit     his     own 
lillle  hut,   and   to 
do  practically  what 
he  liked   so   long 
as  he  did  not  leave 
the     village     and 
re[)orted     himself 
to  tlic  authorities 
t  w  ice     a    d  a  y . 
Rations  were 
served  out  to  him, 
and  he  received  a 
small      allowance 
of    money    for 
necessary   ex- 
])eiises. 
Since  his  condctiinalion    and  departure  from 
St.    Petersburg   Kazimoff  had  not  received  any 
kind  of  message  from  his  relations  and  friends, 
and  his  heart  was  l)itter  against  them. 

After  three  years  of  solitude  Kazimoff  obtained 
permission  to  marry  the  widow  of  a  workman 
who  liad  been  exiled  for  a  political  offence  and 
who  had  died  before  his  term  expired.  The 
woman  belonged  to  the  working  classes,  l)ut  she 
was  kind  and  affectionate,  and  KazinK)ff  con- 
sidered marriage  with  her  to  be  preferat)Ie  to 
the  awful  solitude  which  he  had  been  enduring. 


A    TARDY    NTXDICATION. 


235 


On  the  day  of  the  wedding  Kazimofif  had  a 
portrait  of  himself  and  his  j)lel)eian  bride  taken, 
and  this  he  sent  to  his  relatives  in  St.  Peters- 
burg, with  a  reminder  that  his  first-born  would 
be  the  heir  to  the  Ka/imoff  wt-alth  and  estates. 
The  union,  however,  was  ehildless,  and  Kazi- 
moffs  wife  died  five  years  later,  leaving  him 
once  more  alone. 

I'or  over  thirty  years  he  dragged  on  a  solitAiy 
miserable  e.xistence,  limited  to  the  society  of 
ex-criminals  and  deprived  of  everything  that 
makes  life  worth  living.  In  the  earlier  years  he 
still  entertained  hope  that  his  innocence  might  be 
established,  but  as  year  after  year  went  by  with- 
out bringing  one  favour- 
able sign  he  resigned 
himself  to  the  inevitable 
and  prayed  that  death 
might  end  his  sufferings. 


waited  for  his  opportunity,  and  then  murdered 
him  in  the  wood  and  buried  his  body  in  the 
snow.  He  had  come  and  gone  without  seeing 
anyone  and  without  being  seen,  and  after  the 
crime  was  committed  escaped  from  the  neigh- 
bourhood without  attracting  attention. 

He  heard  that  Count  Kazimoff  had  been 
condemned  for  the  murder,  but  had  not  had 
the  courage  to  come  forward  and  admit  that 
he  himself  was  the  real  culprit.  He  desired, 
however,  to  unburden  his  mind  of  this  secret 
before  his  death  and  to  obtain  forgiveness 
for  the  double  sin  which  he  had  committed. 
Tebloff  swore  his  confession  on  the  crucifi.x, 
and  it  was  considered  sufficient  to  justify  Count 
Kazimoff's  immediate  pardon  and  release. 

Count    Kazimoff  returned   to    St.    Petersburg 

only  to  find  that 
nearly  all  his  old 
companions  had 
I)receded  him  to 
the  grave.  He 
is  now  the  head 
of  the  fa  m  i  1  y 
again,  but  he  has 


TEBI.OFF   SWOKE    HIS   CONFESSION   ON   THE   CKIJCIFIX." 


The  truth  of  the  mystery  came  out 
just  before  the  death  of  a  workman  named 
'Jebloff  recently.  Tebloff  was  the  brother 
of  the  pretty  Fedora,  who  had  been  the 
cause  of  the  quarrel  between  Kazimoff  and 
Dolgorouki,  and  on  his  death-bed  he  sent 
for  a  priest  to  hear  his  confession.  He  stated 
that  it  was  he  who  had  murdered  Count 
Dolgorouki.  'ihe  count,  he  told  the  priest,  had 
wronged  his  sister  l-'edora,  and  he,  the  brother, 
had  sworn  to  avenge  her.  He  had,  accordingly, 
followed  Count    Dolgorouki   to    Ljubjana,   had 


willingly  renounced  his  rights  in  this  respect. 
He  has  even  declined  to  live  permanently  in 
the  {)alatial  family  residence,  preferring  to 
occupy  a  modest  apartment  where  he  can  dis- 
pense with  all  formalities  and  ceremonies.  He 
totters  about  the  streets  of  tlie  capital  and  is 
glad  to  be  a  free  man  again,  but  justice  has 
been  done  too  late  to  be  of  much  value  to  him. 
He  is  broken  down  in  health  and  in  spirits, 
coarsened  by  hardship  and  suffering,  unable  to 
enjoy  the  luxuries  that  surround  him,  and  with 
only  a  short  span  of  life  before  him. 


Rambles  in   Macedonia. 


Bv  Hkri'.krt  Vivian. 

Now  that  the  eternal  "  Balkan  crisis  "  is  once  more  looming  large  on  the  political  horizon  this  article 

will  be  found  of  especial  interest.     Mr.  Vivian's  experiences    in  Macedonia  were  entirely  pleasant,  and 

he  found  the  alleged  lawlessness  and  turbulence  of  the  people  to  be  largely  mythical. 


\{E  French  appropriately  use  the 
I  me  word,  Macedoine,  for  a  holo- 
ust  of  sodden  fruit  and  for  that 
iirkish  province  which  remains  the 
i.i>t  cocSc-pil  of  I''.uro|)e.  Nearly  all 
the  I'owcrs,  great  and  small,  covet  Macedonia, 
and  there  seems  every  probability  of  serious 
di  c  there  l>efore  long. 

(  ....  .wcrable  ex|x;rience  as  a  traveller  has 
tauglit  me  that  places  with  the  worst  re[)utation 
are  usually  the  safest.  I  have  wandered  at 
nil'  '  *'  .    quarters  of  Seville  and 

<lf  1  1 1  Somali  deserts  where 

inaraudini{  Ixinds  were  expected  at  every  turn  ; 
ited  Russian  townships  where  cholera 
thousands  of  daily  victims.  IJut 
i.is  the  danger  compared  with  that  of 
'•n  cities  like  London  and  Paris. 
«•  by  the  papers,  you  may  only  \isii 
1  if  you  are  rontent  to  carry  your  life 
your  hand.  A  few  inquiries,  however, 
*  'I  to  convince  me  so  coini)lLtcly  of  its 
y  that  1  was  even  ready  to  take  my  wife 
thither.  As  a  matter  of  fa' t,  though  I  did  not 
know  it  at  the  time,  this  was  probably  the 
K''"'  •  'f'-guard  I  could  have  devised,  for  the 
Al  ,    who    are    the 

only  turbulent  jjersons  i 


I  ! 

nil 
n(. 


M 
in 


talk  Spanish  as  an  alternative  to  Hebrew.  Their 
leading  newspaper  is  printed  in  Spanish  with 
Hebrew  characters.  Its  editor  interviewed  me, 
and  put  such,  surprising  sentiments  into  my 
mouth  that  three-quarters  of  the  article  were 
struck  out  by  the  censor.  The  Jews  of  Salonica 
control  everything.  They  dress  in  a  strange,  far- 
away garb  of  their  own,  adapting  the  Ottoman 
fez  to  long  chintz  overcoats  and  weird  baggy 
breeches.  They  are  neither  apologetic  nor 
aggressive  ;  they  are  considered  honest  in  trade, 
and  they  submit  loyally  to  the  Government. 
What  most  delighted  me  about  them  was 
the  originality  of  their  butchers'  shops.  A 
Thessalonian  does  not  go  round  to  his  trades- 
man and  select  a  chop  or  steak,  but  waits  at 
home  until  a  horse  comes  round.  This  horse, 
seen  in  the  first  photograph,  has  two  boards 
across  his  back,  decorated  with  succulent  joints, 
so  that  a  housewife  may  choose  her  dinner  at 
her  very  door. 

Uskub— dreamy  Uskub— the  capital  of  Old 
Servia  and  of  the  vilayet  of  Kossovo,  is  a  far 
less  busy,  practical  place,  but  entirely  idyllic. 
Nestling  with  forests  of  minarets  and  minaret- 
like   cypresses    beside    the    silvery    X'ardar,     it 


at  lark    a 

(Kirr 

Cit!    ' 

m- 

thc   p 

1%  •' 

ch. 

lcmh«»oi  the  1 

■ 

the  pr 

Kuro{)c 

or    the 

d 

OWIi 

troilden, 

ritgitive  1 

--■• 

Tunisia 

nnfl       \ 

t 

'I'hry  are 

1, 

•d 

from 

Ihc  Spanisii  Jews, 

in« 

1  still 

A  if.kammui.atim;  hutcmkk's  siioi-  in  tiihssalonia. 


\l'hoto. 


RAMBLES    IN    MACEDONIA. 


237 


delights  the  eye  and  arrests  the  imagination  at 
all  seasons.  It  is  the  last  rampart  of  the  old 
Servian  Kmpire,  and  the  bulk  of  the  population 
is  Servian.  \'our  first  ex[)cdition  thence  will 
probably  be  to  the  historic  battlefield  of  Kossovo 
(the  blackbird  meadow),  where  the  last  Servian 
Czar  and  the  flower  of  the  Servian  nobility  fell 
victims  to  the  ad\ancing  Turk.  All  tiie  best 
songs  and  legends  of  Servia  are  wrapped  up  in 
that  great  disaster.  According  to  the  bards, 
black  crows  came  from  the  combat  to  announce 
the  result  to  the  Czarina  Milit.sa,  who  sat  watch- 
ing in  her  tower  at  Krushevats,  the  capital. 
Sultan  Murad,  the  Turkish  conqueror,  also  fell 
on  that  fi.atal  day.  A  Servian  hero  crept  into 
his  tent  in  the  hour  of  victory  and  slew  him. 
The  Sultan's  tomb,  shown  in  the  second 
photograph,     remains     a     place     of     Moslem 


back  lanes.  The  roads  iq  Macedonia  are  not 
so  bad  as  timorous  people  pretend,  for  the 
ofificials  take  great  trouble  to  perfect  com- 
munications between  towns,  and,  as  they  can 
commandeer  labour,  they  need  not  tax  a 
denuded   exchequer. 

But  once  out  of  the  beaten  track,  the  traveller 
must  take  care  of  himself.  'J'here  are  bridges 
over  the  rivers,  but  no  one  dreams  of  using 
them.  As  a  matter  of  course,  your  Jehu  drives 
straight  into  the  water,  even  when  it  swamps  the 
wheels  and  the  horses'  legs  ;  and  the  horses  seize 
the  opportunity  for  rest  and  refreshment.  Some- 
limes,  of  course,  you  have  an  anxious  moment. 
When  we  went  to  Prishtina  we  had  our  courage 
put  to  the  test.  From  the  station  we  pro- 
ceeded at  full  gallop  across  the  downs  for  twenty 
minutes,    bumping   and    rattling    over    hillocks, 


.Mil   OK    THE   SULTAN    MURAfi — A    I'LACK    Ul     liLt^!. 

From  a  Photo. 


{)ilgrimage  where  he  fell,  and,  though  his 
body  has  been  transferred  to  Asia,  his  heart 
is  here,  where  he  fulfilled  the  destinies  of  his 
race. 

Another  favourite  expedition  from  Uskub  is 
to  one  or  other  of  the  Servian  monasteries 
which  nestle  among  the  neighbouring  hills. 
We  were  lucky  enough  to  visit  one— named 
I'obu/hie  —  on  the  occasion  of  the  annual 
festival.  The  drive  thither  was  a  strange 
experience,  rattling  at  full  gallo[)  over  roads 
like  ploughed  fields,  mild  precipices,  and 
alarming  goat-tracks.  However,  I  have  always 
found  that  the  worse  the  roads  are  in  any  country 
the  better  are  the  horses.  You  hear  of  accidents 
on  slippery  macadam,  but  never  in  wild  switch 


with  soldiers  (armed  to  the  teeth)  caracolling 
beside  us.  Then  we  had  a  steep  descent  over 
a  very  stony  road  into  the  town.  A  prudent 
person  would  have  driven  at  a  foot's  pace.  Our 
cabman  was  not  prudent.  He  preferred  to 
drive  for  all  he  was  worth.  At  the  steepest  ai.d 
narrowest  place,  where  the  precipice  at  the  sitle 
was  sheerest,  a  wheel  came  off.  By  every  law 
of  probability  we  ought  to  have  been  flung  a 
mile.  As  it  was,  the  loss  of  the  wheel  merely 
acted  as  a  drag,  and  we  alighted  with  scarcely  an 
emotion,  half  ignorant  of  what  had  happened. 
Next  day  the  same  carriage  arrived  to-  take  us 
to  the  battlefield.  It  had  a  brand-new  wheel, 
but  the  driver  remarked  carelessly  that  the  other 
three  were  rickety  and   that,    with   the  luck   of 


238 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAf;AZINE. 


\Asii;i;v  \vh]:ki-:   riii-;  ii/ri-.  took  m.ack. 


another  accideru,  he  mi^ht  find  an  excuse  for 
further  repairs. 

To  return  to  the  Servian  monastery.  After 
an  exciting  drive  Ihrougli  parlous  |)laces,  we 
espied  a  mountain  dotted  with  white  figures. 
In   the  foreground  was  a  strange,  barrack-like 


edifice  as  thickly 
populated  as  a 
newly  opened  ant- 
hill. We  had  the 
Servian  Consul- 
General  with  us, 
and  were  accord- 
in  t^ly  welcomed 
with  enthusiasm. 
After  a  short  visit 
to  the  chapel, 
where  we  kissed 
imagesand  lighted 
candles,  we  were 
admitted  to  all 
the  fun  of  the  fair. 
Thousands  and 
thousands  of  Ser- 
vian peasants,  all 
dressed  in  the 
most  gorgeous 
and  brilliant 
raiment,  were 
packed  like  .sardines.  In  the  open  spaces 
they  were  dancing  the  Servian  kolo,  a  majestic 
and  mediaeval  exercise.  T-ong  strings  of  them 
took  hands  and  wound  gracefully  in  and  out 
among  the  mob,  dancing  to  the  strains  of  an 
old-world   bagpipe.     The  women  wore  glittering 


\ri:oto. 


ASTKKY, 


\rhoto. 


RAMBLES     IN     MACEDONIA. 


239 


t  ^^y^ 

i 

ir^BRj^^ 

1 

P 

m 

^^;^j 

M 

1         ■ 

'    « 

U 

S 

i. 

^  ^. 

^^^H^:^.^ 

1 

TIIOL'SANIIS    AND    THOUSANDS    OF  SKHVIAN    PEASANTS,    IN  (;i  HiliEOU.-^ 

From  a  Photo. 

aprons  of  silver  cloth  and  endless  collections  of 
coins  as  hair-ornaments,  breast-plates,  and  coats 
of  mail.  These  are  the  dowries  which  every 
maiden  displays  until  she  is  married,  vv^hen  she 
must  put  them  away  until  her  daughters  are  old 
enough  to  wear  them.  The  effect  is  exquisitely 
barbaric,  and  you  feel  yourself  hundreds  of  miles 
and  years  away  from  this  sober,  practical  century. 
The  kolo  looks  the  easiest  and  stupidest  dance 
imaginable,  but  when  you  have  tried  it  you  find 
it  intricate  and  exciting.  I  believe  that,  if  it 
could  be  introduced  into  England  and  America, 
it  would  soon  cut  out  the  cake-walk  and  the 
pas  de  (jiiatre.  There  are  endless  varieties  of 
steps  and  measures,  each  with  some  symbolical 
significance.  And  the  dance  has  this  advantage, 
that  it  can  be  danced  anywhere,  without  prepara- 
tion or  polished  floors  or  spacious  halls.  I  have 
seen  it  danced  with  equal  zest  in  a  forest,  in  a 
crowded  market-place,  in  the  garden  of  a 
Consulate,  and  in  the  ballroom  of  a  Queen. 
This  was  near  Biarritz,  at  the  villa  of  Queen 
Nathalie.  I  chanced  to  remark  to  the  lady-in- 
waiting  that  it  would  be  a  missionary  enterprise 
to  introduce  the  kolo  into  I'Lurope.  She  ran  off 
to  the  Queen  and  said,  "Mr.  Vivian  asks  for  a 
kolo.'"  The  Queen  took  up  the  idea  at  once  and 
herself  hummed  a  tune  to  the  musicians.  Three 
or  four  Servians  set  the  example  and  the  dance 
was  soon  in  full  swing.  The  uninitiated  were 
clumsy  at  first,  but  soon  mastered  the  motif  and 
rivalled  the  vigorous  energy  of  their  teachers. 
Perhaps  the  most  exciting  of  our  experiences 


UAlMi;:.'  I,  WERE  PACKED  LIKE  SARDINES.  ' 


in  Macedonia  was 
our  journey  to 
Kalkandcle 
(known  to  the 
Slavs  as  Tetovo), 
some  thirty  miles 
from  Uskub, 
though  much  of 
the  excitement 
was  due  to  the 
fact  that  it  was 
our  first  venture 
into  the  interior. 
Mrs.  Vivian  was 
only  the  second 
"  European  "  lady 
to  visit  it  within 
the  memory  of  the 
oldest  inhabitant. 
(All  over  the  Bal- 
kans it  is  custom- 
ary to  speak  of 
passing  north  of 
the  Danube  and 
Save  as  "going  to 
Europe.")  There 
were  plenty  of  alarmists  to  discourage  our 
expedition,  and  dreadful  tales  were  related  of 
battle,  murder,  and  sudden  death  by  the  way. 
The  whole  length  of  the  road  was  said  to  be 
flanked  by  Albanian  villages  with  the  most 
villainous  reputation,  and  we  set  out  half  per- 
suaded that  we  should  carry  our  lives  in  our 
hands.  A  friend  of  mine,  however,  had  assured 
me  that  he  often  travelled  thither  without 
escort,  and  only  once  met  with  a  disagreeable 
incident. 

An  hour  before  Kalkandele  there  is  a  dark 
wood  beside  the  road  :  it  is  called  "  Assassins' 
Corner,"  for  robbers  are  supposed  to  lurk  there 
constantly.  As  my  friend  was  passing  it 
towards  twilight  a  couple  of  wild -looking 
ruffians  jumped  out  of  a  thicket  and  seemed 
about  to  stop  his  carriage.  Just  then,  in  the  very 
nick  of  time,  a  clatter  of  hoofs  was  heard  behind 
and  two  zaptiehs  (mounted  police)  were  seen 
arriving  in  a  cloud  of  dust.  The  ruffians  hesi- 
tated for  a  moment,  calculated  their  chances, 
and  then  retired  hurrietlly  into  the  woods.  It 
is  no  doubt  probable  that  they  meditated 
violence,  but,  on  the  other  hand,  they  may  have 
JKul  innocent  intentions.  The  zaptiehs  had 
been  sent  on  by  the  vali  (governor)  directly  he 
heard  of  my  friend's  departure,  but  they  had 
only  now  had  time  to  catch  him  up.  It  is  by 
no  means  certain  that  an  escort  is  necessary  for 
travelling  in  Macedonia,  but  the  authorities 
always  prefer  to  furnish  it,  in  case  of  accidents. 
I  found  that,  whenever  I  drove  in  the  country 


240 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


without  warning  the  authorities,  zaptiehs  were 
sent  after  me,  sometimes  only  joining  me  when 
I  was  half-wav  home,  ^^■hen  I  was  starting  for 
Kalkandele  1  was  advised  to  let  the  vali  know, 
and,  accordingly,  two  zaptiehs  travelled  with  me 
all  the  way.  6i)inions  are  divided  as  to  their 
fulness  at  a  critical  juncture,  but  at  least  they 
,rd  moral  support,  and  they  look  very  im- 
posing,  with   their   long  guns  slung  over  their 


that  the  Albanians  never  molest  strangers,  I  saw 


no  need   for  hurry.     But 


carriage 


when  I  reached  the 
the  dragoman  was  so  much  alarmed 
that  Thad  to  agree  to  drive  off.  When  we  had 
proceeded  a  little  way  Mrs.  Vivian  wanted  to 
stop  and  see  the  fun  from  a  safe  distance  ;  but 
he  reminded  us  that  the  guns  carried  six  hun- 
dred yards,  and  implored  us  to  go  on  at  full 
gallop.     After  about  ten   minutes  the  zaptiehs 


'  h'o 


hn<\  IAN    "   Kol.iJ,  "    A    MAJI-.MIC    .MK.I)l.i;VAI.    OA.N 


[Pholo. 


backs.     Somciimes,  however,  they  are  .1  ^I'urre 
of  danger  rather  than  security. 

Thus,  the  only  disagreeable  incident  during 
th-  ■'•-••  was  provoked  by  their  prcsi-nce.  We 
li '  '«:tl  at  a  wayside  inn,  and  I  had  got  out 

to  strctrl)   my   legs.     .Suddenly    I   heard    angry 
^li      "  '1  '  J'l.rhs  i-ngaged  in  a  brawl 

\\  .^  .Morof  the  inn.     At  first 

was  only  a  great  deal  of  loud  threatening 
.'  i^hing,  but  presently  revolvers  were 

''         ..ipliehs  were  overpowered,  ;md  their 

were  taken  lr»)m  them.      Then  I  discovcnd 

tiiat   our    dragoman    had    rushed    back    to    the 

'  nlling   frantically   to   me    to 

I  had   been   told  virv  often 


came  clattering  up,  roaring  with   laughter  over 
their  exploits. 

It  appeared  that  one  of  them  owed  the  inn- 
keei)er  a  halfpenny  for  some  oats,  and  that  the 
innkeejier  hml  threatened  to  kill  him  if  he  did 
not  pay.  P.ut  an  Albanian  zaptieh  does  not 
willingly  yield  to  force,  and  he  refused  indig- 
iKiiilly.  There  might  have  been  a  serious  fight, 
but  one  of  the  bystanders  said  to  the  iniiktc[)er, 
"Do  not  hurt  him  while  he  is  in  altcndance 
on  strangers.  That  would  be  an  inhospitable 
tiling  to  do,  and  the  knimnkani  (prefect)  would 
take  a  great  revenge.  \\  ail  till  he  comes  ngain 
and  then  kill  him  if  you  like."  "So,"  said  the 
zaptieh,  with  a  very  fine  bow,  "  I  owe  my  life  to 


RAMBLES     IN     MACEDONIA. 


241 


IIIK    MAKKi:  1 -I'LACK    OK    K  A  I.K  AN  L<KI.1C    -.M  K.     V[\1AN     WAS     KILL)     I  HAT    H  K    Uoll.ll    I'li  AC  I  IC  ALLV     1  A  K  K    Mis 
/Vc'W  rt]  LIKE    IN    ms    HANDS    IP    HE    UANED   TO    VISIT   THIS    lOWX.  [I'/loto. 


you,  c/iekbia,   and   I    shall    never    cease    to    be 
profoundly  grateful." 

"  But,  you  foolish  fellow,"  said  the  dragoman, 
"  you  ought  not  to  have  engaged  in  a  brawl 
when  you  were  escorting  strangers.  Why  did 
you  not  give  the  man  his  halfpenny  and  have 
done  with  it  ?  " 

The  zaptieh  made  very  merry  over  the  idea. 
"You  know  how  we  Albanians  are,"  he  replied. 
"  We  think  nothing  of  a  fight,  and  we  are 
always  ready  to  take  a  man's  life  when 
we  ([uarrel  with  him.  If  it  is  not  about  a 
halfpenny  il  may  be  about  a  dog." 

The  dragoman,  however,  being  of  a 
timorous  turn,  saw  little  humour  in  the 
situation.  Throughout  the  journey  he  had 
kept  pointing  to  various  spots  and  relating 
in  awestruck  tones  the  various  calamities 
that  had  taken  place  there.  At  this  bridge 
a  woman  had  been  murdered ;  in  that 
defile  there  had  been  a  fight  between  the 
police  and  the  Albanians,  with  so  many 
casualties  ;  by  yonder  mill  a  peasant  hnd 
been  waylaid  and  held  to  ransom.  On 
cross-examination,  however,  many  of  the 
stories  proved  to  be  very  old  ones,  and 
the  others  became  either  commonplace  ur 
improbable. 

Half-way  to  Kalkandele  we  met  the 
kaimakam,  who  was  inspecting  the  repairs 
of  the  road.  He  bade  us  share  his  lunch 
under  a  shady  tree,  and  then  invited  us  to 
travel  with  him  the  rest  of  the  way.  It 
was  very  interesting  to  watch  his  adminis- 
trative methods,  and  even  the  most  dis- 
contented   peasants    admitted    that,    if   all 


officials  possessed 
his  energy,  there 
would  be  very 
little  room  for 
complaint  in  the 
district.  When- 
ever he  met  a 
group  of  peasants 
he  stopped  them 
and  asked  to  see 
their  passports. 

Two  men,  driv- 
ing a  large  flock 
of  sheep,  were 
treated  in  this 
way.  'I'hey  had 
a  long  story,  to 
the  effect  that 
they  were  travel- 
1  i  n  g  by  s  1  o  w 
stages  toSalonica, 
where  they  in- 
tended to  ship 
the  sheep  to  Constantinople.  But  the  passports 
did  not  bear  out  this  account,  and  presently 
it  appeared  that  they  were  notorious  robbers, 
whom  the  police  had  been  seeking  for  a  long 
time.  They  were  told  to  give  up  their  revolvers, 
which  they  did  with  some  reluctance.  Then 
they  were  told  to  consider  themselves  under 
arrest,  and  the  kaimakam's  two  zaptiehs  rode  up 
to  them.  They  were  inclined  to  resist,  and 
tried  to   hustle   the  zaptiehs,  protesting  loudly. 


A    KOADSIDK   COUKT  OK    INI^UIUV — IIIK    KAIMAKAM    INTEKK0(;AII;'^   TWO 

WAVPARERS   ANM>    DISCOVERS   THAT   THEV    ARE    NOTORIOUS    ROBBERS. 

Front  a  Photo, 


Vol.  xi.— 31. 


242 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


When  I  last  saw  them  they  were  being  com- 
pelled to  collect  and  drive  back  the  stolen 
sliecp,  while  the  zaptiehs  followed  them  with 
drawn  revolvers.  Afterwards  I  learned  tliat 
they  were  bound  and  cast  into  prison. 

Farther  on  the  kaiinakam  stopped  a  group 
of  a  dozen  peasants  and,  being  dissatisfied  with 
their  passports,  ordered  them  all  to  return  to 
Kalkandele.  As  he  look  away  their  passports 
and  they  could  not  go  on  travelling  without 
them  they  had  no  choice  but  to  obey,  and  so 
could  be  safely  left  at  large. 

"  See,"  exclaimed  the  dragoman,  triumphantly, 
"how  dangerous  is  the  state  of  the  roads." 

"  See,  rather,"  I  retorted,  "  how  energetic  the 
kaimakam  is  in  maintaining  their  security." 

"  Ah  I  "  was  the  reply,  "  while  he  is  here  no 
one  dare  do  anything,  hut  he  cannot  be 
everywhere  at  once,  and  in  his  absence  no 
one  can  travel  without  risking  a  murderous 
assiuilt." 

From  time  to  time  we  passed  long  files  of 
jxrasants,  men,  women,  and  children,  with  carts 
full  of  merchandise,  driving  cattle,  sheep,  pigs, 
and  |HJultry  to  and  fr<nn  the  market  at  Uskub. 
In  ntost  cases  they  had  to  travel  all  through  the 
nighr,  yet  they  had  no  military  escort.  I  drew 
the  dragoman's  attention  to  this  tangible  evi- 
dence of  public  security.  "  If  they  could  only 
travel  at  the  |H.-ril  of  their  lives,"  said  I,  "you 
would  surely  not  find  them  like  this  in  such 
numlicrs  every  week." 

"  Hut,"  he  retorted,  unconvinced,  "  many  do 
JH-    '     '      the  way,"  and  he  fell  to  reca[)itulating 


foil  of   outrage, 

su.^picious  precision. 

At  Kalkandele  I 
was  the  guest  of  the 
Servian  proia,  or 
•con,  the  most 
wiiinic  man  I  h.ive 
ever  met.     His  hoii^e 


lorating 


earh   one   with 


led  to  a  veranda  and  was  isolated  at  night  by 
letting  down  a  trap-door.  I  asked  the  cause  of 
all  these  precautions,  and  was  told  much  about 
the  fanaticism  of  the  po[)uiation,  who  might  at 
any  time  wish  to  raid  a  Christian  household.  I 
could  not,  however,  elicit  any  definite  instance 
of  such  conduct  within  recent  memory,  and  the 
population  seemed  perfectly  benevolent  when- 
ever we  drove  about  the  streets.  In  fact,  I 
thought  it  quite  unnecessary  that  we  should 
have  an  armed  escort  for  every  stroll,  but  my 
Christian  friends  were  very  firm  on  the  subject. 

Kalkandele  is  even  more  beautiful  than  most 
Turkish  towns.  Every  house  has  its  garden 
and  a  rippling  rivulet,  tall  poplars  and  cypresses 
rise  up  beside  the  glistening  minarets,  storks' 
nests  are  poised  upon  the  chimneys,  weather- 
beaten  wooden  dwellings  of  fantastic  shape  are 
relieved  by  the  gay  arrangement,  always  artistic, 
of  Turkish  shops,  and  the  women  are  among 
the  most  gorgeously  attired  in  all  Macedonia. 

Perhaps  the  most  idyllic  sjjot  is  the  tekki 
(monastery)  of  the  Bektashis,  a  heretical 
Moslem  sect.  Unlike  any  other  Moslems,  they 
drink  wine  and  spirits.  This  is  so  great  a 
here.sy  that  the  imaum  (or  Mohammedan  priest) 
may  not  even  speak  to  them.  They  are  very 
tolerant  to  Christians,  some  of  whom  are 
actually  admitted  to  their  .sect.  They  believe 
in  the  transmigration  of  souls,  and  are  accord- 
ingly most  kind  to  every  animal.  They  are 
especially  fond  of  birds,  cats,  and  horses,  but 
do  not  care  for  dogs.  Their  rules  for  good 
conduct  are  very  stiict,  and  any  member  who 
misbehaves    himself    is    at    once    turned    out. 


was 

t         t 

like  a  fortress.    A 

■    M.is 

...:.:«li, 

and 

li'               rs  were 

.    lAirricadcd  at 

!own.       If  in- 

(nT'fd      these 

d<t 

would 

»ti! 

Hunted   by 

a 

i     1  i  n  e    o  1 

fortiriration :    for   ih< 

•  r    was 

—  ; . 

iry,  ami 

IIU' 

d                  ruoiii  ^ 

only  be   ap 

i:.l     I  ili.    Ai;  I  llijl;     SIAVLA)  -' 
VULUIII.K   MAN    I    HAVE   EVEK    MET." 


illl-.    MObl' 

[I'/ioto. 


RAMIJLKS    IX     MACKIJON'IA. 


-43 


Beautiful  peacocks,  lordly  storks,  and  many 
strange  birds  strut  about  a  wonderful  wide 
garden  around  an  open-air  niosciue.  At  the 
corner  of  a  low  veranda  sits  the  baba,  or  abbot, 
(TOSS  -  legged  upon  a  divan,  an  old  man  of 
singularly  bene- 
\()lent  aspect. 
I  le  wears  a  fur- 
trimmed  coat, 
and  reminds  us 
of  a  picture  in 
"Lalla  Rookh." 
1  le  rises  to  re- 
ceive us,  and  the 
prota  kisses  his 
hand.  Then  we 
are  plied  with 
cigarettes  made 
of  the  finest 
monastic  to- 
bacco, with 
enormous 
peaches  and  lus 
cious  grapes, 
also  cups  of 
fragrant  coffee, 
and  all  the  deli- 
cacies of  the 
season.  Our 
talk  is  of  birds 
and  beasts,  of 
the  pleasures  of  life  and  other  restful  topics, 
and  we  envy  this  peaceful  retreat  as  we  turn 
again  to  the  narrow  streets  thronged  with  armed 
men. 

The  people  of  Macedonia  lead  a  mediaeval 
life  in  their  work,  in 
their  play,  in  their 
religion,  and  in  their 
semi  feudal  system, 
'liie  various  estates 
are  ruled  autocrati- 
cally by  a  chifji,  or 
seigneur,  who  enjoys 
extensive  authority 
over  his  peasants. 
'I'hey  are,  however, 
to  all  intents  and 
purposes  owners  of 
their  homesteads, 
except  that  they  owe 
him  one  third  of  the 
yearly  crops  in  lieu 
of  rent.      I    visitetl 


HI-:    Alil.iU    OK    A    CI  KlDts    HliKEIlLA  !  ■;    -IKM    MONKS   WHO    DKJNK    UIM 

THIS    IS   SO   GREAT   A    HERESY    THAT   UTHEK    .MOHAMMEDANS    MAY   NOT    EVEN 

From  a\  speak  to  them.  [P/ioto. 


tlic  house  of  one  of  these  lairds  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  Uskub  —  a  strange,  dreamland 
palace  surrounded  by  stout,  high  walls  and  look- 
ing as  though  it  were  in  a  chronic  state  of  siege. 
I    give    a    photograph    of    the    harem,    which 

looks  more  like 
a  prison  than  a 
ladies'  bower. 
One  reason  for 
the  gloom  was 
the  absence  of 
the  master,  a  very 
famous  Albanian 
chief.  He  was 
summoned  to 
Constantinople 
some  years  ago 
and  has  not 
I'een  allowed  to 
return  here  since. 
The  story  goes 
that  he  tried  to 
turn  his  domain 
into  a  little  in- 
dependent prin- 
cipality and 
steadfastly  re- 
fused to  pay  any 
taxes.  That  is  a 
frequent  aspira- 
tion in  Turkey, 
but  is  rarely  found  to  pay  in  the  long  run.  It  is, 
indeed,  typical  of  Macedonian  lawlessness,  such 
as  the  correspondents  love  to  describe.  The 
Macedonians  are  accustomed  to  fight  their 
own   battles,  as  other  people  did    four  or  five 

centuries  ago,  and 
this  gives  them 
a  different  attitude 
towards  each  other 
and  the  authorities, 
but  it  does  not 
necessarily  mean 
that  they  are  dan- 
gerous people.  In- 
deed, I  found  them 
without  exception 
courteous  and  hos- 
pitable, and  I  have 
no  hesitation  in 
recommending  any- 
one who  is  tired  of  the 
ordinary  tourist  track 
to  pay  them  a  visit. 


/■'riiit  a  I 


THE    HAUIM    OK    A    CHIFJI,    OR    FEUDAL    LORD. 


(/'/>>).V. 


^ttacKsd  by  Wolvss  in  ths  5)esert. 

By  J.  K.  M.  Shirazi. 

The   author   is    a    Persian    gentleman   who  acted  as  interpreter    to    a    Russian    scientific    expedition    in 

Persia      While  crossing  thi  desert    of    Mayan    in    mid-winter   the    party  were  attacked  by   a  ferocious 

pack  of  starving  wolves,  and  had  to  fight  for  their  lives  until  help  arrived. 


\  the  year  i8yi  Professor  Makaroff, 
of  the  University  of  St.  Petersburg, 
was  sent  on  a  scientific  mission  to 
the  north-western  districts  of  Azer- 
bijan,  in  Persia.  I  accompanied 
him  as  interpreter.  We  went  straight  to 
'I'eheran,  the  Persian  capital,  where  we  re- 
mained for  a  few  weeks  in  order  to  complete 
our  preparations.  From  Teheran  we  travelled 
to  Ispahan,  across  an  arid  plain,  and  again 
sto|)ped  for  some  weeks  in  the  neighbourhood 
()(  the  Kariin  Kiver,  which  rises  in  the  mountains 
to  the  south  of  Ispahan.  Leaving  Ispahan  we 
travelled  west,  visiting  Khoi,  Salmast,  and 
Maraghi. 

Then,  turning  our  faces  homewards,  we 
reached  a  place  called  Urmi,  situated  in  a  plain 
watered  by  four  rivers,  flanked  on  one  side  by 
I^ke  Urmi,  forty-seven  miles  long,  and  on  the 
other  side  by  a  chain  of  mountains  extending  as 
far  as  the  Turko-Persian  frontier  of  the  Khoi- 
vanSalmast  districts.  Here,  at  the  village  of 
(ieo-Tepe.  the  professor  stopped  to  study  the 
ruined  temples  of  the  Zoroastrians.  Many 
of  the  inhabitants  live  by  tending  immense 
herds  of  sheep  and  goats.  This  is  a  task 
fraught  with  considerable  danger,  as  the  plain 
is  infested  by  the  smaller  wild  beasts,  such 
as  the  (Caspian  cat,  the  hyena,  the  jackal,  and, 
most  dangerous  of  all,  the  common  wolf. 

Travelling  in  the  East  is  very  pleasant  in 
s[)ring  or  early  summer,  but  we  found  it  an 
arduous  task  in  mid-winter.  There  are  no 
railways  of  any  kind  ;  indeed,  our  superstitious 
natives  would  look  uptjn  steam  [xnver  as  the 
direct  work  of  .Shitan  (.Satan),  and  the  roads 
are  so  bad  that  they  seem  rather  to  separate 
than  to  unite  the  villages. 

Before  leaving  Urmi  to  return  to  St.  Peters- 
burg, 7m  Tabriz,  we  hired  six  horses  for  our 
journey— two  for  ourselves,  two  for  our  servants, 
one  for   t'      '  •,  and  another  for  Mushadi 

Ali,   our   '  (proprietor   of   the  horses), 

who  was  also  to  act  as  our  guide.  This  man 
was  a  sociable  person,  and  although  very 
rcligiwus,  with  the  name  of  each  saint  at  the  tip 
of  his  tongue,  he  was  always  ready  to  talk,  sing, 
or  tell  a  good  story  -in  fact,  he  represented  a  most 
rhnrarterislic  .A/erbijanec  type. 

On  the  24th  of  Kebruary,  after  spending  the 
night  with  an  Armenian  merchant,  we  left  the 
village  ofGeo-Fatali   Khan  escorted  by  soldiers, 


who  took  us  as  far  as  our  first  lialting-place,  the 
village  of  (}avillan,  which  is  inhabited  chiefly 
by  Nestorian  Christians.  This  military  honour 
we  owed  to  the  professor's  letter  of  introduction 
to  Amir  Nizan,  the  Governor-General  of  Azer- 
bijan.  As  we  had  spent  fourteen  hours  in  the 
saddle,  riding  through  very  rough  and  bleak 
country,  we  were  glad  on  reaching  the  caravan- 
serai to  dine,  warm  ourselves  at  the  fire,  and  go 
to  bed.  Next  morning,  after  rubbing  ourselves 
with  snow  by  way  of  washing,  and  eating  a  sub- 
stantial breakfast,  we  set  forth  at  about  four 
o'clock  in  the  most  intense  cold.  The  professor 
and  I  walked  on  a  few  miles  to  warm  ourselves. 
Tliat  evening,  without  adventure,  we  reached  our 
second  halting-station,  the  village  of  Tascich, 
which  was  so  small  a  place  that  the  best  cara- 
vanserai could  afford  us  nothing  better  to  sleep 
upon  than  the  floor,  with  a  bearskin  covering. 
Next  morning  at  about  four  o'clock  we  started 
for  our  last  halting  -  station  but  one,  a  place 
called  Dizai  Khalil. 

In  the  evening,  before  we  had  finished 
supper,  one  of  the  village  officials  came  to 
warn  us  not  to  cross  the  desert  of  Mayan, 
which  lay  between  Dizai  Khalil  and  Tabriz,  on 
account  of  the  ferocity  of  the  wolves,  which  were 
in  a  starving  condition  owing  to  the  intense  and 
protracted  cold.  Mushadi  Ali  also  joined  his 
entreaties  to  those  of  the  villager ;  but  the 
professor  was  determined,  in  spite  of  the  cold 
and  wolves,  to  travel  next  day  the  eighty  four 
English  miles  which  still  lay  between  him  and 
the  capital.  The  night  was  exceptionally  dark 
and  it  snowed  incessantly ;  the  natives  called 
this  tempest  a  boran  (devil's  storm),  and  I  have 
never  seen  a  blizzard  in  Northern  Russia  to 
equal  the  violence  of  that  hurricane. 

We  were  joined  at  this  place  by  a  Moham- 
medan Dervisii  whose  name  was  Bulbul.  He 
was  dressed  in  a  multi-coloured  aba  (frock-coat), 
with  an  arakhchin,  a  peculiar  cap  worn  under 
a  big  hat,  and  his  hair  fell  over  his  shoulders  in 
curls.  He  was  going  to  Tabriz,  and  asked  per- 
mission to  join  us,  to  which  request  we  readily 
consented. 

We  were  up  luxt  moriiiiig  before  three 
o'clock,  and  found  thai  snow  was  stilt  falling 
in  fantastic  wreaths.  Mushadi  .\li  and  the 
servants  could  be  heard  saying  their  prayers 
through  the  chill  darkness,  emphasizing  lustily 
the  word  Shitan   (Satan),      'i'he  professor   had 


ATTACICEr)    BV    WOLVKS    IN    THE    DESERT. 


US 


iioi  changed  his  mind  concerning  the  continu- 
ance of  the  journey,  and  in  half  an  liour  we 
were  all  in  the  saddle. 

I  could  not  help  noticing  that,  in  liie  event 
of  the  wolves  attacking  us,  the  party  was  badly 
armed.  The  professor  had  a  pair  of  revolvers, 
with  about  fifty  cartridges,  while  the  servants 
had  very  primitive  iron  tapanchas,  or  pistols, 
Tiie  Dervish  Hulbul  possessed  only  a  huge  club, 
as  it  is  against  the  rules  of  his  sect  to  carry 
firearms. 

We    had    not    travelled    two  hours    before    a 


"blinded   and   C1U)K1£I),    Wli   COULD    NKITHER   GO    FORWARD    NOR   BACK. 


terrific  snow-cloud  overtook  us.  The  snow, 
lashed  by  the  wind,  rose  from  under  our  feet  in 
whiding  eddies,  while  it  fell  faster  and  thicker 
from  above,  encompassing  us  like  the  waves  of  a 
great  ocean,  so  that,  blinded  and  choked,  we 
could  neither  go  forward  nor  back. 

On  consultation  we  resolved  to  halt  for  a  few 
hours  in  the  hope  that  the  weather  might 
improve  in  the  meantime.  We  accordingly 
scraped  a  space  clear  of  snow,  and  surrounded  it 
with  a  snow  barricade.  Unpacking  the  baggage, 
we  raised  an  inner  wall,  behind  which  we  might 
seek  jjrotection  if  attacked  by  the  wolves. 
Whilst  piling  the  saddles  one  upon  another  and 
listening  to  Bulbul,  who  was  relating  a  storm 
adventure  of  his  own,  the  servant  holding  the 
horses  turned  our  altenlion   to  a  huge  greyish 


mass  advancing  towards  us  far  out  in  the  desert. 
We  hoped  that  it  might  be  a  caravan,  but  were 
soon  undeceived  by  the  howling,  snarling  noise, 
which  betrayed  the  presence  of  a  pack.  As  they 
came  nearer  it  was  a  very  remarkable  sight  to 
see  the  great  brutes — there  were  sixteen  or 
eighteen  of  them — leaping,  rolling,  and  biting  at 
each  other  in  the  newly  fallen  snow,  and  yet  all 
the  time  rushing  towards  us  with  characteristic 
eagerness.  They  made  straight  for  our  snow- 
barricade,  and  although  we  began  to  fire  when 
they  were  about  twenty  paces  from  us,  not  a 

single  shot  told, 
and  the  whole 
pack  leapt  like 
1  i  g  h  t  n  i  n  g 
straight  into  the 
thick  outer  wall 
of  snow.  For 
the  next  two  or 
three  minutes 
we  [)0ured  a 
deadly  fire  into 
them  at  close 
(juarters,  and 
then they  turned 
tail  and  were 
out  of  sight  in 
a  minute. 
Looking  round 
to  see  if  anyone 
was  hurt,  1 
found  the  body 
of  a  huge  she- 
wolf  lying  dead 
at  my  feet, 
grasping  ni  her 
clenched  teeth 
one  of  the  golo- 
shes  of  Pro- 
fessor MakarolT, 
who  was  kneel- 
ing beside  her  on  the  snow  examining  her  body 
with  a  zoologist's  curiosity. 

We  were  not  destined  to  rest  long,  for  just 
as  we  had  more  securely  fastened  the  horses  to 
prevent  them  breaking  away  in  their  fright  we 
saw  the  pack  returning. 

This  time  they  changed  their  tactics,  for,  in- 
stead of  bursting  in  a  mass  through  the  snow 
wall,  they  spread  themselves  out  and  tried  to 
leap  it  singly.  1  had  just  succeeded  in  hitting 
a  beast  that  was  making  for  the  horses  when 
my  attention  was  arrested  by  a  terrible  cry,  and, 
turning  round,  I  saw  poor  Dervish  Bulbul  lymg 
under\a  wolf.  I  instandy  rushed  to  his  help 
and  fired  into  the  animal's  chest.  As  I  only 
wounded  him,  enraging  him  still  more,  he 
tunud  and  leapt  on  my  breast,  tearing  away  the 


246 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


front  of  my  thick  Russian  fur  coat  and  sending 
me  sprawling  on  to  my  back.  Before  he  could 
jump  forward  to  finish  me,  however,  the  pro- 
fessor struck  the  wounded  animal  to  the  ground, 
where  he  was  quickly  dispatched.     We  found 


our  very  eyes, 
we   deplored 


HK    I.KAIT   UN    MV    lll.KAST,    stNDING    MK   SI'KAWI.l.NG    ON    TO    MV    l;ACK. 

that  Hullnil  was  badly  wounded  on  the  chest 
and  right  side,  and  the  skin  of  his  arms  and  legs 
was  cruelly  torn  by  the  beast's  claws.  Not  only 
did  wc  lose  his  assistance,  but  he  also  added 
greatly  to  the  confusion  of  the  scene  by  scream- 
ing like  a  child  honi  the  pain  his  wounds 
caus(!d  him. 

Things  were  now  looking  very  bad  for  us  and 
we  held  another  consultation,  with  the  result 
that  it  was  decided  to  send  Mushadi  Ali  back  to 
Di/.ii  Khahl  for  help.  In  order  to  allow  our 
m'  I    to   get   clear   of   the  wolves    it   was 

nei  e>-Kiry  to  distract  their  attention,  for  they 
were  now  |K)sted  about  thirty  yards  from  the 
cnrampment  and  watched  our  every  movement 
with  the  greatest  eagerness.  After  we  had  dis- 
cussed various  plans  we  agreed,  by  mutual 
ron.-nr.  to  give  them  the  donkey  which 
b<  to  Dervish  lUilbuI. 

•So,  while  the  horse  and  man  were  ef|uijiped 
for  their  hazardous  gallop  and  dispatched  in  one 


direction,  the  ass  was  driven  forth  in  front  of  the 
wolves,  who  at  once  rushed  eagerly  on  the  poor 
beast,  literally  tearing  him  limb  from  limb  before 
It  was  a  horrible  sight,  and 
the  necessity  of  sacrificing  the 
poor  brute ;  but 
we  had  no  alter- 
native. We  were 
now  a  party  of 
five  men  and 
five  horses,  sur- 
rounded by  a 
dozen  or  more 
hungry  and  fero- 
cious wolves.  All 
our  cartridges 
were  exhausted 
except  three, 
which  tile  pro- 
fessor still  had, 
but  the  powder 
was  so  mois- 
tened by  the 
snow  and  general 
atmos{)heric  con- 
ditions that  it 
was  very  doubt- 
ful if  they  would 
be  of  use.  The 
se  rva  n  t  s  were 
shouting,  crying, 
and  praying  to 
all  tlie  saints 
they  could  re- 
member, while 
the  Dervish,  be- 
tween his  cries 
of  pain,  muttered 
long  pas.sages  from  Saadi,  the  moralist  j)oet  of 
Persia.  The  professor  grunihK'd  between  his 
teeth,  cursing  in  one  breath  both  the  weather 
and  the  wolves  for  having  obstructed  his  journey 
in  such  a  rude  manner. 

We  were  aroused  from  our  unpleasant  reflec- 
tions by  another  attack  from  the  wolves,  and 
almost  before  we  could  realize  it  they  were 
among  us  again.  I  was  thrown  violently  to  the 
ground,  with  the  paws  of  a  great  beast  planted 
on  my  chest  and  its  hot  breath  striking  my  face. 
The  professor  saw  my  terrible  struggles  and 
discharged  a  shot  through  the  wolfs  head.  The 
brute  rolled  over  in  its  death  agonies,  but  when 
1  tried  to  rise  I  found  that  1  was  unable  to 
move  my  left  leg  frnin  ilic  acute  pain  that  had 
seized  it.  Blood  was  pouring  from  my  knee, 
and  I  presently  realized  that  the  shot  which  had 
released  me  had  passed  through  the  neck  of  the 
wolf  and  entered  my  leg,  shattering  the  bone. 
The  ])rofessor  and    tlie  others  came  and  bound 


AITAf'KKI)     i;V     \\()L\'i;s     IX     IHF     DESERT. 


247 


up  my  wounds  as  best  they  could,  but  while  my 
comijauions  were  attending  to  me  the  wolves 
attacked  the  horses  and  three  of  them  broke 
loose  and  rushed  madly  about.  They  had, 
however,  no  chance  against  .such  terrible  odds, 
and  we  saw  them  pulled  down  and  devoured  in 
an  incredibly  short  space  of  time.  Soon  after 
this  I  fainted  from  pain  and  exhaustion,  where- 
upon my  coin[)anions  surrounded  me  like  a 
barricade  in  order  to  keep  our  four-footed  foes 
from  reaching  me. 

How    long  I    lay  unconscious   I    cannot  tell, 
but  wlien  I  came  to  myself  I   found  that  lUilbul 


professor  thought  of  setting  fire  to  the  saddles 
of  the  horses  that  had  been  devoured,  hoping 
that  while  they  blazed  the  wolves  would  not 
attack  us. 

This  plan  we  carried  out,  but  the  moment 
the  flames  died  down  the  pack,  now  greatly 
increased  in  number,  once  more  fell  furifjusly 
upon  us. 

The  attack  this  time  was  so  prolonged  and 
the  fight  so  deadly  that  the  professor  in  the 
extremity  of  our  danger  loosened  one  of 
the  horses  and  drove  him  out  of  the  camp. 
The  poor  animal   in   its   terror  galloped  round 


UE   SAW    TllKM    lULl.EU    UuW.\    AND    UEVOUKEU" 


and  I  were  lying  together  propped  up  by  the 
saddles.  The  Dervish  was  blowing  a  big  horn 
he  carried  in  the  face  of  a  wolf  that  had  lea[)l 
uni)erceived  into  the  back  of  the  encampment 
— greatly  to  our  alarm,  as  neither  of  us  could 
do  more  than  roll  from  side  to  side  when  we 
wanted  to  move.  Fortunately,  however,  the 
unexpected  sound  of  the  instrument  frightened 
away  all  the  wolves  for  a  few  minutes,  and  we 
reviewed  our  forces  on  the  chance  of  hitting 
upon  some  plan  of  campaign.  We  were  now  a 
party  of  three  able-bodied  and  two  wounded 
men,  and   we  had   only   two   horses  left.     The 


and  round  the  outside  of  our  snow  wall,  and 
nothinir  was  heard  but  the  thud  of  his  hoofs, 
scattering  snow  on  every  side,  and  the  rushing, 
snarling  sound  of  the  pursuing  pack,  whose 
white,  gleaming  teeth  were  painfully  visible  to 
our  horror-struck  ga/c.  The  professor  then 
suggested,  rather  tiian  part  with  our  last  horse 
and  last  hope,  that  we  should  fling  to  the  wolves 
first  our  baggage  and  then  our  fur  coats— any- 
thing, in  fact,  to  gain  time,  until  our  messenger 
could  fetch  a  rescue  party.  This  we  did,  but 
the  wolves  returned  upon  us  in  such  overwhelm- 
ing numbers  that  we  were  obliged  to  drive  out 


24S 


THE    WIDE 


WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


the  last  of  our  horses,  and  he  shared  the  fate 
of  the  others.  We  were  thus  reduced  to  the 
desperate  necessity  of  parting  widi  our  clothes, 
and  were  actually  taking  it  in  turn  to  give  up  a 
garment  when  the  welcome  bark  of  a  dog  was 
heard,  and  in  a  moment  some  splendid  hounds 
came  racing  up,  followed  by  a  party  of  well- 
mounted  horsemen  from  the  village,  who 
(|uickly  drove  our  enemies  away.  They  were, 
however,  only  just  in  time.  We  had  killed 
altogether  eleven  wolves,  and  had  sacrificed  five 


h' 
on; 


Th. 
woun< 

nnd  wiiin  I 
rcM)m  at  ihi 
a  few  viil.i 


1  a  donkry  with  their  .sadilles,  and  al 
■    "■■'  <oals. 


pain  that   I  suffered  from  my 

made  me  again  lose  consciousness, 

■  If  I   was  lying  in  a 

:ii  Di/.ai  Khalil,  with 

i/ing  at  me  as  though    I    had 

returned  Iruiii  anollur  world.      A    telegram   was 

..  nr  ],v  Professor  Makaroff  to  Tal)ri/,  and  soon 

ind  two  (.'ossacks  from   the    Russian 

Cohsuliite  arrived. 


We  remained  at  Dizai  Khalil  for  a  fortnight, 
during  which  time  the  professor  nursed  me  as 
if  I  had  been  his  son,  and  never  ceased  to 
blame  himself  for  the  shot  which  so  nearly  cost 
me  my  life.  Mushadi  Ali  also  stayed  on  with 
us  to  cheer  the  party  with  his  lively  presence 
and  help  to  dress  the  lacerated  limbs  of  the 
Dervish  Bulbul,  who,  however,  had  begun  to 
recover  the  moment  the  wolves  were  out  of 
sight.  The  opinion  of  the  Dervish  as  regards 
the  sanity  of  Russian  professors  had  undergone  a 

material  change, 
and  he  vowed 
he  would  never 
again  join  a  scien- 
tific party,  how- 
ever erudite  they 
might  appear. 

During  our 
stay  in  the  village 
we  heard  that 
the  wolves  had 
become  a  ter- 
rible pest.  No 
domestic  animal 
was  safe  if  left 
unprotected,  and 
so  fierce  and 
bold  had  these 
animals  become 
that  a  young 
child  was  stolen 
out  of  its  cradle 
and  {)artly  de- 
voured l)y  a  wolf 
before  ihe  beast 
could  be  over- 
taken :  this  hap- 
])eiied  the  night 
I  lefore  we  left 
liie  village  ! 

Our  adventure 
not  oiil)'  delayed 
the  professor's 
journey  very 
much,  but  he 
had  to  pay  for  all  tlu'  horses  destroyed  and  for 
I  )cr\  ish  lUilbul's  donkey,  not  to  mention  a  reward 
to  the  men  who  came  so  opporlunel)'  to  our  assist- 
ance. The  professor  took  six  wolf-skins  back  to 
Russia  with  him  as  a  .souvenir  of  the  event  ;  I 
have  nothing  to  show  for  my  share  in  the 
adventure  excej)!  the  wound  below  my  left  knee. 
Although  it  is  now  (|nite  lu.iKd,  yd  a  sudden- 
<'hange  of  weather  causes  me  much  discomfort, 
forcibly  recalling  to  my  mind  our  terrible  ex[)eri 
once  with  wolves  in  the  desert  of  Mayan. 


UK    11'    A    I.Ak.Mt.N  i." 


HAT  niglit  in  (luadalajara  I  sat 
down  to  dinner  with  tliree  Spanish 
officers  and  two  priests.  It  was  at 
die  P'onda  Espanola,  where  I  had 
been  welcomed  with  what  might  be 
called  cuinparntive  enthusiasm.  I  had  found  it 
rather  a  hard  job  getting  acconuiiotlation  in 
(Guadalajara.  The  people  of  the  first  fonda 
into  which  I  went  did  not  .seem  to  be  at  all 
im[)ressed  with  my  appearance.  I  su[)pose  I 
wore  a  trampish  air — a  come-day  go-day  Clod- 
send-Sunday  sort  of  air.  The  man  who  kept 
the  fonda  looked  me  up  and  down  and  seemed 
to  take  my  measure  from  many  view-points. 
Then  after  a  pause — laden  with  the  ripest  signi- 
ficance—he let  me  know  that  the  fonda  was 
full.  I  came  sadly  away  after  running  the 
gauntlet  of  the  eyes  of  himself  and   his  wife, 

Vol.  xi.— 82.  Copyright,  1903,  by 


After  leaving  Guadalajara  the 
author  set  out  for  Brihuega,  the 
next  point  on  his  tramp  northward. 
Stress  of  weather  drove  him  to 
spend  the  night  at  a  wayside  village, 
and  he  relates  his  experiences  in 
the  strange  underground  cellars 
of    the    Posada  Anastasio. 


and  what  appeared  to  be  his 
daughter,  and  a  scjuat-looking 
waiter.  I  suppose  that  to  them 
I  lacked  distinction  of  look.  And 
so  I  wandered  through  the  up- 
and-down  and  this-way  and  that- 
way  streets  of  (Uiadalajara  till  I 
arrived  at  another  fonda.  Here 
as  before  my  luck  deserted  me 
the  moment  I  got  inside  the  door. 
The  fonda  was  full,  said  the  land- 
lord, after  the  searching  look, 
and  the  pause  — the  pause  laden 
witli  ripe  significance.  Around  and  around  I 
wandered,  till  I  met  a  young  man  who  piloted 
me  to  the  Fonda  Espanola.  Here  the  scene 
was  changed.  'I'he  propietario  of  the  fonda 
and  his  wife  welcomed  me  with  such  effusion — 
when  compared  with  the  way  that  I  had  been 
welconieil  at  the  other  places — that  I  was  frozen 
with  the  horrible  thought  that  perhaps  the 
effusion  would  figure  witli  largeness  in  the  bill. 
15ut  such  turned  out  not  to  be  the  case.  They 
were  simply  kindly  Spanish  people  who  seemed 
to  be  captured  with  my  mud-splashed  ap{)ear- 
ance.  And  so  I  slipjjed  off  my  knapsack — 
forbore  to  ask  what  the  tariff  was— explained 
that  I  was  an  Englishman  of  much  importance 
— and  asked  to  be  shown  to  a  room.  And 
very  soon  I  was  seated  at  dinner  with  the 
three  Spanish  officers  and  the  two  priests. 

George  Newnes,  Limited. 


2^0 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


The  room  was  long  and  rather  low  and  lit  up 
with  big  hanging  oil  lamps.  The  food  was  food 
that  I  hardly  understood,  but  it  was  good  food. 
And  the  wine  was  excellent.  It  was  a  claret — 
a  full-bodied  claret— and  it  was  there  before  you 
on  the  table  to  take  as  much  as  you  wanted. 

I  liked  the  priests  much  better  than  I  did  the 
oliticers.  The  officers  had  the  air  of  carrying  the 
earth  on  their  shoulders — the  air  that  belongs 
the  world  over  to  gentlemen  of  the  military  per- 
suasion. I  could  not  make  out  the  regiment 
they  l)elonged  to.  At  first  I  was  under  the 
impression  that  they  belonged  to  the  band, 
because  of  the  fact  that  the  sleeves  of  their 
uniforms  were  adorned  with  trumpets  worked 
out  in  gold  lace.  But  they  were  neither 
trunifXTters  nor  bandsmen.  Their  carrying-the- 
earth-on-their-shoulders  air  forbade  so  lowering 
an  assumjjtion  as  this.  And  after  dinner  the 
prupietario  told  me  that  they  were  the  officers  of 
a  crack  Spanish  regiment. 

The  priests  had  the  look  of  jovial,  jolly,  easy 
men  of  the  world,  'i'hey  slapped  the  officers  on 
the  backs,  and  laughed  and  joked  and  made 
things  hum.  And  one  of  them  began  to  ask 
me  questions.  He  was  a  man  of  about  liiirty- 
five,  with  a  round,  red  face  and  clever,  shrewd 
eyes.  I  answered  his  questions  as  well  as  I 
could,  and  then  I  asked  him  what  sort  of  a 
country  it  was  between  Guadalajara  and  Zara- 
goza  He  explained  at  some  length,  but  the 
only  part  of  the  ex|)lanation  that  I  grasped  was 
that  the  country  was  mountainous.  He  seemed 
suri)rised  when  I  tr)id  him  that  I  was  going  to 
walk  there.  I  would  have  to  pass  through 
fiKiny  mountains  (mucha  montes),  he  said. 
And  then  one  of  the  officers  asked  me —or 
I  think  he  asked  me — why  I  was  going  a  pih 
(on  foot)  through  the  country.  He  seemed  to 
get  rather  vexed  at  the  answer  I  gave  him, 
but  the  priest  with  the  njund,  red  face  said 
something  to  him  that  soothed  him.  An  argu- 
ment now.risufdas  to  ICngland  and  her  niclhods 
of  ext.ndm-  li«r  l^tnpire.  And  (Jhamberlain's 
««-■"•"'»  diplomat    came     into   ([uestion. 

••  DiploniaiKo  siniestro  !"  ejaculated  the  priest. 
And  the  officer,  who  a  monient  before  had  got 
rather  v.x.-d,  looked  at  me  hard  and  asked  me 
soni  oncerning  our  great  statesman.     Hut 

I  si.,,,—  -1  my  shoulders  and  looked  blank. 
"No  im.-nder"  (I  t\,,i\\  understand),  I  said. 
And  after  that  the  topic  veered  round  to  the 
safer  one  of  bull  fighting.  Here  I  came  in  a 
Imlu.  My  knowledge  of,  and  enthusiasm 
for,  the  sfiort  won  for  me  the  gf)od  graces 
of  the  c)ffi<  ,T,  who  had  seemed  iiK  lined  to  carp 
at  me  whmevcr  he  got  the  chance.  His  eye 
now  Iwamc*!  with  fralirnity. 

After  dinner  I  went  out  to  have  a  look  round 


the  town.  I  turned  to  the  left  and  walked  up  a 
narrow  street  that  led  through  an  arch  into  a 
wide  plaza.  The  plaza  was  well  lit  up  and  filled 
with  a  crowd,  composed  nearly  all  of  men. 

These  men  of  Guadalajara  !  There  were  as 
fine  a  looking  Ijt  of  fellows  as  I  ever  saw 
in  my  life.  They  were  very  different  from 
the  people  of  Andalusia,  and,  indeed,  different 
from  the  peoj)le  of  Madrid.  Towerful,  middle- 
sized,  dark  fellows  with  broad,  rather  hard  faces 
— as  a  rule.  Broad-headed  men  of  the  absolute 
fighting  type.  They  suggested  the  Scotch,  and 
still  they  were  not  like  them.  Neither  were 
they  like  the  Irish.  Their  gestures  were  abrupt 
and  their  voices  were  deep.  Square,  strong, 
well-set  men.  It  struck  me  that  the  country 
that  could  produce  such  men  was  in  no  sense  a 
"dying  nation."  I  would  have  liked  the 
ICnglish  statesman  who  had  been  guilty  of  utter- 
ing this  foolish  phrase  to  have  seen  these  men 
here  in  the  plaza. 

The  next  day  I  went  on  my  way  to  Brihuega, 
after  bidding  good-bye  to  the  people  at  the 
Fonda  Espanola.  Brihuega  was  thirty-si.\  kilb- 
metros  from  Guadalajara,  and  my  intention  was 
to  make  it  that  night,  l^ut  luck  was  against  me. 
It  came  on  to  rain  again.  And  the  wind  blew 
it  steadily  in  my  face  for  hours.  There  is 
nothing  so  bad  for  making  time  in  walking  as 
facing  a  steady  rain-laden  wind. 

\Vhen  the  afternoon  came  I  saw  that  it  would 
be  impossible  for  me  to  make  Brihuega  that 
day,  and  I  concluded  that  I  would  j)ut  up  at  the 
posada  of  the  first  fair-sized  village  I  came  to. 
It  was  not  that  I  was  tired  or  fagged.  It  was 
rather  that  the  day  had  dispirited  me.  It  was  a 
dull,  wet,  heavy,  darkish  day  such  as  one  would 
never  expect  to  find  in  a  country  like  Si)ain. 

At  last,  after  I  had  walked  eighteen  kilbmetros, 
the  road  took  a  sudden  bend  around  a  great 
high  mass  of  rock  and  before  me  was  a  village. 
To  the  right  of  it  was  a  most  wonderful  ruin  of  a 
Moorish  castle.  It  was  strange  that  I  had  not 
noticed  it  when  coming  along  the  road.  But  the 
wind  had  been  dri\ing  the  rain  into  my  face 
steadily  for  hours. 

A  grand,  high,  strange-looking  Moorish  castle. 
It  stood  before  me  hewn  out  of  grey  stone.  The 
greyness  of  the  day  and  the  rain  and  the  wind 
added  to  its  effect.  It  was  as  high  and  as 
massive-looking  as  a  cathedral.  And  it  had  the 
nobility  and  grandeur  of  look  of  a  cathedral.  It 
was  there  —  something  Moorish,  something 
Arabic,  something  Ivistern.  There  on  a  grey  day 
in  the  midst  of  the  rain  and  the  wind.  Its  lines 
had  the  power  and  the  freedom  and  the  strength 
of  Gothic  lines,  and  still  there  was  in  it  the 
subtlety  and  the  strangeness  and  the  mystery  of 
the  East.      I  had  seen  nothing  that   could  be  at 


A    TRAMP    ]\     SIWIN". 


THE   WIND    HAD    RRF.N    DRIVING   THE    RAIN 
INTO    MV    FACE   STEADILV    FOR    HOURS." 


nil  compared  with  it  in  the  Alhanibra — nothing 
that  possessed  eitlier  its  mngnificence,  its 
beauty,  or  its  meaning.  The  Alhambra  was  but 
a  place  of  effeminate  marble  [)illars  and  courts 
and  baths  and  gardens.  But  this  ruin  was  of 
a  time  when  the  Moors  were  men  -  when  they 
were  strong  in  the  land.  It  was  a  castle,  simple, 
splendid,  and  strange.  And  it  was  here  in  a 
place  of  three  hundred  souls — a  place  called 
'J'orija — a  place  not  even  on  the  map  of  Spain. 

'Jo  the  side  of  it  stood  the  village.  It  was 
also  in  grey  stone.  But  the  meaning  of  the 
village  was  not  as  the  meaning  of  the  strange, 
wonderful  castle.  The  castle  told  of  another 
time,  another  life,  another  race.  And  still  it 
was  of  the  place  and  of  the  scene  as  the  village 
was  of  the  place  and  of  the  scene.  It  was  here 
in  the  greyness  of  the  day— and  the  rain  and 
the  wind. 

I  went  to  the  posada  in  the  village.  It  was 
a  weird,  dark-looking  pUu'e  in  the  middle  of  the 
narrow  street  of  the  village,  and  was  called  the 
Posada  Anastasio,  after  the  man  who  owned  it. 
Anastasio  was  a  gnarled-looking  old  .Sjianiard 
of  over  seventy.  He  had  a  curious  habit  of 
continually  turning  his  head  to  look  behind  him. 

His  wife  was  about  as  old  as  he  was.  But 
she  was  a  stronger   character  and  had  a   better 


grasp    of    the 
powers     of     her 
mind.  Anastasio's 
attention    waixlered    tjuickly 
from    one   thing  to   another. 
He  was  really  old. 
A  fire  was  soon  blazing  in   the  chief  room 
of  the  posada.    I  was  sitting  there  with  Anas- 
tasio and  his  wife.     She  was  asking  me  the 
usual  questions — where  had  I  come  from,  where 
was    I    going    to,    and    who    was    I  ?      I    was 
answering  her  questions  and  wishing  that  1  was 
anywhere   else   than    in    the    posada.     The   old 
man's   habit   of  continually  looking  round   had 
got  on  my  nerves.     And   I  was  thinking  of  the 
sullen  expression  that  I   had  seen  on   the  fixces 
of   the   men   who  were   standing  about    in   the 
narrow  street  of  the  village  as  I  was  coming  up 
to   the  posada.     They   were    fine-looking    men. 
But   they   looked    sullen.     And    it    all    at   once 
occurred    to   me    that    the    peoi)le    of    Castile 
looked    .sullen    generally.      Whilst     I    admired 
them  I  could  not  say  that  I  liked  them— as  I 
did  the  Andalusians. 

The  room  of  the  posada  was  gloomy-l<x)king 
and  weird.  There  were  black-looking  objects 
hanging  from  the  roof.  They  might  have  been 
wine-skins,  but  I  was  unable  to  make  out  their 
shapes  in  the  gloom.  The  strong  light  of  the 
fire  threw  them  into  a  deep,  almost  black, 
shadow.  And  a  sudden  resolution  came  to  me. 
I  would  leave  the  posada  and  walk  on  to  the 
next  village  ! 

I  could  see  that  it  was  still  daylight  through 
the  narrow  chink  at  the  top  of  the  chimney.  I 
would  still  have  time  enough  to  get  from  the 
village  well  out  on  to  the   road.     After  that  it 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


252 

did  not  matter 
much.  riie 
road  was  good. 
I  could  find 
my  way  along 
it  even  in  the 
darkness. 

I  picked  up 
my  knapsack 
and  asked  how 
much  I  owed 
for  the  jug  of 
Argando  that 
I  had  just  fini- 
shed. Hut  the 
old  woman 
would  not  hear 
of  my  going. 
It  was  dark  —  I 
would  lose  my 
way  —  ma  ny 
things  might 
hap|)en.  I  was 
not  to  go  1 

Anasta  sio 

said     nothing. 

H  e  d  i  d   not 

seem    to   care 

in    the    least 

whether     1 

went  or  stayed. 

And      this 

attitude      of 

his    finally 

made   me   de- 
cide   to    stay. 

After  all  there 

was    no    good 

reasr)n  for  my 

nervousness.  1 

was  well    able 

to  look  out  for 

myself.     Hut 

still,  knorkioL' 

round 

wdfld  aiiiungii 

all     sorts 

jH-'opIe   had    put   caution    into   me. 

I  had  learned  from  hard  experience  that 
rruft  and  caution,  combined  with  a  little 
l»ravery  at  the  right  moment,  make  together 
the  finest  armour  that  a  man  in  danger  can 
jv    —  Men   who  are   in  the  habit   of   rush- 

;:  it  blank  at  danger  usually  d(j  it  through 

rowardicc.     They  are  afraid  of  being  thought 
afraid.       And    evi:n     if    they    have     got     the 
stiii'lif.  real  stuff  in  then)  they  are  not  effective 
A   dead    man    is  but   a   dead    man. 

I I  Is   the    man    who    outlives    the    fight    who 


counts.  No,  there  is  the  time  to  retreat 
and  the  time  to  advance  —  just  as  in 
sword-play.  And  there  is  the  lime  to  be 
afraid  — to  run  away. 

Things  now  wore  a  cheerier  aspect  in 
the  posada  and  I  was  feeling  better.  Tlie 
Argando  was  mellowing  me  up  and  taking 
the  pessimism  out  of  me.  It  was  a  good 
wine^better  even  than  the  wine  I  had  had 
the  night  before  at  the  Fonda  Espanola  in 
(luadalajara.  The  company,  of  course, 
was  not  quite  so  lively,  but  I  suppose    it 

was  as  good 
as  could  be 
got  in  Torija. 
An  as  tasio's 
two  sons  were 
now  seated 
before  the  lire. 
They  were  two 
powerfully- 
built  young 
men  with  the 
sullen  under- 
look  in  their 
faces  that 
seemed  to  be- 
long especially 
to  the  m  e  n 
of  the  V  i  1  - 
lage. 

Anastasio 
had  improved 
considerably 
under  the 
genial  influ- 
ence of  his  own 
.\rgando.  His 
mind  had  stop- 
ped wandering 
and  he  was 
telling  me  all 
about  the 
posada.  He 
said  it  was 
more  than 
five  hundred  years  old.     It  looked  it. 

I  tried  to  find  out  something  about  the 
Moorish  castle.  "  Ah  !  "  said  Anastasio.  "  La 
Castillo  Moro."  P.ut  his  tone  was  the  tone  of 
one  who  was  touching  a  subject  that  did  not 
interest  him.  He  could  tell  me  nothing  of  it- 
save  that  it  was  old.  Was  it  older  than  the 
posada?  I  asked.  Yes,  it  was  older  tlian  the 
[)Osada,  he  answered,  after  a  jjause.  P>ut  it  was 
in  no  way  so  remarkable  — at  least  not  to  him  — 
for  he  went  on  to  tell  me  at  length  again  about 
the  posada.     He  was  human,  was  old  Anastasio. 


11 AU   uul    ON    MY    NliKVES. 


A     TkAMr     IN     STAIN. 


!53 


At  lust  the  lime  came  for  us  to  retire, 
and  I   was  offered    my  choice  either  of 
having  a  bed  or  of  sleeping  on  the  bench 
by  the  fire.      I  chose  the  b.d,  because  I 
thought    it  would   be   tlie  safest   in   the 
event  of    anything   out  of 
the  way  happening,    ^^'hilst 
we  were  all    in  a  pleasant 
humour  by  this  time  I  still 
thought  it  as  wxMl  to  keep 
my  weather  eye  o|)en. 

Anastasio  got  up  slowly 
from  where  he  was  sitting 
and  lit  a  small  oil  Iam|i.  It 
was  made  of  tin,  and  the 
wick  came  up  through  its 
spout.  I  had  seen  such 
lamps  stuck  in  men's  hats 
when  years  before  I  had 
been  working  in  the  head- 
ing of  an  underground 
tunnel.  They  were  worn 
by  the  men  who  ran  the 
machines  for  the  drilling 
of  blasting  lioles  in  the 
solid  rock. 

I'he  old  man  slowly  led 
the  wa)'  out  of  the  room. 
I  followed  him  with  my 
knapsack  in  my  hand.  1 
was  wondering  slightly  as 
to  what  ])art  of  the  posada  he  was 
going  to  take  me. 

The  blare  from  the  naked  light 
of  the  lamp  re\ealed  a  flight  of  stone 
steps.  I  followed  Anastasio  down 
them,  and  we  stood  in  wiiat  seemed 
to  be  the  cellar  of  the  posada.  Anas- 
tasio held  the  light  high  over  his 
head  and  waved  it  round  as  if  to 
show  me  the  size  of  the  place.  It 
was  a  huge  cellar,  and  had  a  door 
in  each  of  its  four  walls.  In  the  centre  of  it 
was  a  strong  pillar,  on  the  top  of  which  rested 
supports  for  the  roof. 

Anastasio  led  me  through  one  of  the  doors, 
and  I  found  myself  in  a  still  larger  cellar.  Off 
in  a  corner  of  it  was  a  heap  of  grain.  We 
crossed  the  floor  of  this  and  Anastasio  led  me 
through  another  door.  At  this  I  began  to  get 
nervous.  The  cellar  that  I  found  myself  in  now 
was  circular,  and  was  lower  in  the  roof  than  the 
other  cellars.  He  went  across  this  and  opened 
the  door  that  led  into  the  room  where  I  was  to 
sleep  for  the  night. 

"  Buenos  noche  "  (good  night),  he  said,  as  he 
set  the  lamp  down  on  a  small  table  that  stood 
close  to  the  bed.  He  turned  and  left  me,  and 
I  could  hear  him  going  slowly  across  the  floor  of 


ANASTASIO    HELD    THF.    LIGHT    HIGH    OVEK    HIS    HEAD. 

the  circular  cellar — opening  the  door — and  then 
going  slowly  across  the  floor  of  the  large  cellar. 
Then  the  sound  of  his  footsteps  stopped 
suddenly.  I  wondered  why.  He  had  still 
another  cellar  to  cross  before  he  came  to  the 
foot  of  the  flight  of  stone  steps  that  led  u(i  into 
the  chief  room  of  the  posada.  His  steps  had 
sounded  out  so  distinctly,  and  then  they  had 
stopped  suddenly.  I  wondered  what  could  be 
the  meaning  of  it.  But  it  might  have  been  my 
fancy.  The  jwsada  had  made  me  nervous. 
The  chief  room  of  it  seemed  to  be  but  the 
entrance  to  a  labyrinth  of  dungeon-like  cellars 
opening  one  into  the  other.  What  could  be 
the  size  of  the  place  in  all— the  place  where  I 
was— the  place  underground  ?  In  the  first  cellar 
I    had    noticed  a  door   in   each   of  the   walls. 


254 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    ALVGAZINE. 


They  must  have  opened  into  underground  places 
which  went  off  in  other  directions.     I  wondered 
what   was  the  reason  of  it  all.     ^^'hy   was   the 
posada  of  such  a  curious  construction  ?     I  could 
not  help  feeling  nervous.      How  easy  it   would 
be  to  kill  a  man   in   a  place  like   this  !     I  was 
sorry  now  that  I  iiad  stopped   in   'i'orija  at  all. 
I  should  have   left  the   posada  that  time  at  the 
fire  when  the  impulse  to  leave 
it  had  come  upon  me.    It  would 
have  heen  better  to  have  gone 
along  the  road  in  the  darkness 
and    in   the  rain 
than  to  have  stop- 
ped   in    a    place 
such  as  this.     A 
strong,  dark  place 
in  whirh  hung  an 
at  mosphere 
sinister    and 
evil. 

The  room  in 
which     I     was 
now    was    rather 
small.     And  the 
roof    was     lower 
even     than     the 
roof  of  the  circu 
lar  cellar.  I  could 
almost  touch  with 
my  hand  the  \i'v^ 
single  rafter  that 
ran   right   across 
the  roof.     There 
was    no    window 
in  it. 

I  turned  and  ex- 
amined the  door.  It 
had  no  lock.  All  that 
there  was  was  a  latch. 
T'        '  M    be 

oi'  ;  Ironi 

the  outside  as  it  could 
from  •■ 

I  \>. ;.„ 

coverlet  of  the  bed. 
The  -shcel.s  were  very 
damp.  It  had  evi- 
dently bf.-n  a  lontr 
time  anyorv 

h '  '  in    it.       1 

«  ivc  done  much   l)etter  to  have  sk-pl  in 

my  clothes  by  the  side  of  the  fire.  The  frame 
and  headboard  of  the  l)ed  were  made  of  dark 
woed.      It  look«.-d  as  old  as  lh<-  pfis.ula  itself. 

I  pusher!  the   bed  over  Uj  the  end  f>f  tiie  wall 

that  fronted  the  door.     Then   I    laid  the  table 

'      ■'  '  '  t'le  floor  between  the  head  of  the 

I-  door      \U-  objt-ct  was  to  make  it 


I    TOOK   TIIE   CAKTKIIJUirS  OUT   Ol'    MV    l<KVf)I.Vl:R,    AND   SNAI'PKU    IT.' 


impossible    for    anyone    to    come    in    without 
smashing  the  door.      But  the  table  was  not  long 
enough.     The  door  could  be  still  opened  wide 
enough   for  a   man   to  get  in.      I  was  at  a  loss 
what  to  do.     But  at  last  I  thought  of  the  [)lan  of 
shoving   the   head   of  the  bed   riglit  up  against 
the  door.     I  was  safe  now  so  far  as   being  sur- 
prised in   my  sleep  was  concerned.     If  anyone 
came  I  would  at  least   have 
a  run  for  my  money.     There 
might,   of   course,    be  other 
ways   of    getting    in   on    nie 
than     by    the     way    of    the 
door.     But  I 
had  done  all 
I  was  al)le  to 
do. 

T  h  e  n      I 
took  the  car- 
tridges out  of 
my     revolver 
and    snap[)ed 
it    several 
times    to  see 
if    the    cylin- 
der   revolved 
eas  i  ly. 
I    was 
afraid 
that     it 
might 
h  a  v  e 
got    we  I     in 
my     pocket 
as     1    was 
walking 
along     from 
(lUadalajara. 
It     was     all 
right,  and   I 
put  the  car- 
tridges back 
and     lay 
down    on    the   bed 
without    taking   off 
my    clothes.        I 
would  just  as  soon 
have     thought     of 
sleeping  out   in  the 
rain    as  of    gelling 
between  the  damp 
lain  would  have  been 


sheets.     Of  the  two  tlu 
the  least  dangerous. 

When  I  blew  on!  the  light  tlu-  darkness  actu- 
ally seemed  to  press  down  upon  me.  But  I 
was  not  (|uite  so  nervous  now  as  I  had  l)een 
before.  I  lay  with  my  feet  towards  the  door. 
The  fact  of  having  tiie  head  of  ihe  bed  jammed 
up  against  it  reassured  me.     A  man  need  never 


A    TRAMP  IN    SPAIN. 


255 


feel  nervous  if  circumstance  deals  him  out  any- 
thing of  a  hand.  It  would  be  my  own  fauh,  I 
rellccted,  if  anything  ha[)pL-ncd  and  I  muddled 
things  up. 

But  the  darkness  began  to  bother  me.  And 
I  got  up  and  grojied  towards  the  table  for  the 
little  lamp.  1  found  it  and  lit  it.  Had  there 
been  a  window  in  the  room  I  would  not  have 
minded  it  so  much.  But  one  felt  that  this 
liungeon-like  room  was  always  dark  —dark  even 
in  the  middle  of  the  day  when  the  sun  was 
shining.  And  the  air  was  damp  and  heavy — the 
air  that  belongs  to  a  place  that  never  sees  the  sun. 

1  was  lying  on  the  bed  again  watching  the 
flame  that  came  from  the  lam[).  There  was  not 
much  oil  in  it.  It  was  getting  lower.  And  soon 
it  was  out  and  the  darkness  was  on  me  again. 

I  lay  with  wide  open  eyes. 

In  the  densest  kind  of  darkness  there  is  a 
curious,  faint  suggestion  of  greyness.  Why  this 
should  be  I  don't  know.  But  I  have  noticed 
it.  The  darkness  of  the  darkest  night  is  not 
as  the  darkness  of  a  mine — of  a  place  down 
beneath  the  earth.  I  have  been  in  darkness  in 
a  place  far  down  beneath  the  earth,  and  it 
seemed  to  me  that  there  was  around  me  a  grey- 
ness— a  threatening  greyness  that  surrounded 
and  enclosed  and  in  the  end  made  one  afraid. 

Such  was  the  darkness  that  was  here  in  this 
room  beneath  the  posada.  Had  anyone 
knocked  suddenly  on  the  door  I  would  have 
felt  relief.  I  would  have  felt  relief  had  the  door 
been  suddenly  smashed.  I  was  in  no  way 
nervous  now  about  men.     Men  I  could  deal  with. 

Light  came.  The  room  was  filled  with  it.  I 
wondered  how  it  had  come  to  pass  that  I  had 
thought  that  the  room  was  as  dark  as  the  dark 
cell  of  a  prison.  The  light  was  streaming  in 
through  a  window  to  the  right  of  my  bed. 
Either  I  was  dreaming  or  I  was  mad.  1  got  up 
from  the  bed.  I  was  not  dreaming.  There 
was  my  revolver.  It  had  been  lying  close  to 
my  hand.  I  picked  it  up,  pressed  down  on  the 
thumb-piece,  and  opened  up  the  cylinder  to  see 
if  the  cartridges  were  all  right.  They  were 
there — six  of  them.  No  ;  I  was  surely  not 
dreaming.  Perhaps  I  had  been  dreaming,  and 
the  daylight  had  come  and  the  cover  of  the 
window  had  i)een  taken  off  from  the  outside. 
But  the  night  before  I  had  seen  no  sign  of  a 
window.  I  got  u])  off  the  bed  and  went  over  to 
It.  But  just  as  I  put  my  bond  on  the  frame 
darkness  came  down  u[)on  me. 

I  was  lying  on  the  bed. 

There  was  a  knock  on  the  door.  But  I  kept 
still.  And  then  there  came  another  knock,  and 
I  heard  the  voice  of  Anastasio.     He  knocked 

{To  be 


again.  And  after  a  pause  I  heard  the  sound  of 
his  footste[)s  as  he  walked  back  across  the 
circular  cellar.  I  heard  his  footsteps  as  1  had 
heard  them  before,  going,  going — and  then 
seeming  to  stop  suddenly. 

It  seemed  to  me  as  if  there  were  some 
difference  in  the  darkness  of  the  room.  And  I 
got  up,  pulled  the  bed  over,  and  opened  the  door. 

It  was  daylight.  Anastasio  had  come  to  call 
me.  I  went  (juickly  up  to  the  chief  room  of  the 
posada  and  I  saw  him  bending  down  over  the 
fire.  He  was  blowing  some  twigs  into  a  blaze 
with  a  bellows.  I  put  my  hand  on  his  shoulder, 
and  it  was  in  my  mind  to  ask  him  questions. 
Why  was  the  room  where  I  had  passed  the  night 
without  windows  ?  Why  were  there  so  many 
underground  places  beneath  the  posada  ?  Why 
did  the  sound  of  his  footsteps  stop  suddenly 
when  he  got  to  a  certain  point  ?  These  questions 
were  on  my  tongue,  but  it  was  useless  for  me  to 
try  to  give  utterance  to  them.  I  did  not  know 
enough  Spanish. 

"  Buenos  dias,  seiior,"  he  said,  raising  himself 
up  and  looking  at  me.  A  moment  after  his  wife 
came  in  and  placed  a  pot  of  water  on  the  fire 
to  boil.     And  then  one  of  the  sons  came  in. 

The  room  of  the  posada  looked  different  now 
in  the  light  of  the  morning.  The  gloomy,  weird 
look  of  the  night  before  was  gone  from  it. 
Its  look  was  curious  and  odd  rather  than 
picturesque.  And  it  wore  a  damp,  discoloured 
air — such  an  air  as  might  have  belonged  to  a 
place  where  no  one  lived.  The  fire  was  burn- 
ing and  there  were  people  in  it,  but  still  there 
was  a  strange  effect  of  lifelessness  in  it.  Dust 
was  over  everything.  The  wine-skins  that  hung 
from  the  roof  were  coated  with  dust.  They 
might  have  been  hanging  there  through  hundreds 
of  years.  The  only  thing  in  the  room  that 
seemed  free  from  dust  was  a  picture  of  the 
Virgin.  The  frame  and  the  glass  in  front  of  the 
picture  had  been  lately  cleaned. 

And  about  the  room  there  was  no  air  of 
comfort.  It  seemed  to  express  but  the  idea  of 
being  a  place  of  shelter — a  place  where  men 
might  come  after  fighting — a  place  where  men 
might  hide  and  wait.  It  gave  one  no  impression 
of  ever  having  been  intended  for  a  place  where 
life  could  be  lived.  It  was  just  one  of  the 
rooms  of  a  strong  place  of  shelter,  built  in  a 
time  of  battle  and  foray  and  murder. 

Anastasio's  wife  put  some  bread  and  a  mug 
of  coffee  on  a  little  low  table  and  brought  it 
over  to  me.  I  drank  the  coffee  and  then  asked 
her  how  much  I  owed  her  (<]ue  quanto?). 

"Dos  (two)  pesetas,''  she  answered,  i)utting 
up  two  fingers. 

I  paid  ller  and  left  the  posada. 

continued. ) 


ny    EAPERIEINCE5    AT    KANO, 

And  What   I   5aw  on   the  Way. 


Bv  THE  Rev.  A.  E.  Richardson. 


II. 


Until  the  British  troops  under  Colonel  Morland  planted  the  Union  Jack  on  the  walls  of  Kano  in 
February,  only  three  living  Englishmen  had  visited  this  mysterious  Mohammedan  city  during  recent 
years.  Three  years  ago  Mr.  Richardson  accompanied  Bishop  Tugwell's  mission  to  the  "Manchester 
of  the  Soudan,"  and  he  here  recounts  his  experiences  during  that  memorable  visit.  The  excellent 
photos,  illustrating  the  article  were  taken  by  the  Rev.  J.  C.  Dudley  Ryder. 


made  all  haste  we 
could  to  Zaria,  for  the 
rainy  season  might 
come  upon  us  at  any 
moment.  Our  car- 
riers walked  well.  The  Hausas 
are  enormously  powerful,  yet, 
strange  to  say,  they  cannot  stoop 
and  pick  up  heavy  weights. 
Each  man  carries  with  him 
a  long  pole,  well  shown  in 
the  photograph  below,  where- 
with he  props  up  his  burden. 
Resting  one  end  upon  a  forked 
stake  or  tree  he  supports  the 
other  by  means  of  his  "  loko," 
as  the  pole  is  called.  This 
obviates  the  necessity  of  stooping 


^:7 


k   toNTRIVANCB   WHICH    ENABI.HS    THE     PORTER     TO    TAKK 
t,r    HK    I.OAO    WIIHOUT    STOOIING.  [P/toto. 


HAUSA    CAITl.K — UHKN'    AN    AMMAI.    IS    KIII.1-,IJ 
ITS    IIUMl'    IS    THE    king's    I'KEROUATIVE. 

From  a  Photo. 


to  pick  up  the  load  on  resuming 
his  journey.  'I'lius  llie  distance 
a  man  can  walk  between  two 
successive  rests  is  called  a 
"  loko."  That  is  the  Hausa  idea 
of  locomotion. 

Their  cattle  are  very  fine  crea- 
tures and  are  usually  milk-white. 
I'hc  above  picture  de|)icts  some 
typical  specimens.  The  Fulanis 
lierd  them  outside  the  cities. 
Huge  droves  of  five  hundred 
head  may  be  seen  grazing  peace- 
fully. They  are  "  dromedarian  " 
in  appi'arance  />.,  they  possess 
a  huiiip  on  their  backs.  On  the 
slaughter  of  an  o.\  the  King  gets 
the  humi).  That  is  his  preroga- 
tive. Hausa  beef,  however,  is  a 
trifle  tough.     In  fact,  false  teeth 


M\'     I'AI'KRIKNCKS    AT     K.WO. 


'57 


of  cast-iron  would  be  invaluable  in  many  ways 
in  this  country. 

Siniiularlv  enouiih,  we  found  it  most  difficult 
to  procure  new  milk.  Sour  milk  is  the  more 
valuable,  and  the  native  cannot  be  brought  to 
sell  you  new  milk  without  an  effort,  offer  what 
price  you  will.  It  is  strange,  too,  that  the 
African  sees  no  objection  from  a  military  point 
of  view  to  the  near  neighbourhood  of  a  hill  to 
his  cities. 

The  next  photograph  shows  the  inside  of  a 
small  fortified  town  built  at  the  foot  of  a  knoll, 


custom  of  the  country  is  to  give  the  sender's 
name  first.  The  Hau.sas,  however,  are  Moham- 
medans, and  therefore  (lod's  name  is  as  often  on 
their  lips  as  it  is  seldom  in  their  hearts.  Because 
of  this  all  letters  must  begin  with  that  Name. 

"  We  send  you  greetings  in  the  Name  of  the 
great  (lod  and  of  His  prophet  Mohammed." 
So  runs  their  letters.  Ours,  too,  a  faithful  cojjy, 
commenced  :  "  We  send  you  salutations  in  the 
Name  of  the  great  (iod  and  of  Jesus  Christ  our 
Saviour."  'I'hen  followed  the  jjurport  of  the 
note  :  "  U'onan  ya  fito  dagga  hanun  bature '' 
("This  thing  comes  out  of 
the  hand  of  the  while  man  "). 
"We  are  five  peaceful  men 
coming  to  your  city.  We 
ask  your  permission  to  sit 
down  there."' 

You  cannot  say  in  Hausa 
"  I  lived  in  London  twenty 
years."  Vou  must  declare 
"  I  sat  doivti  in  London 
twenty  years."  The  epistle 
finished  up  wiUi  "  A  thou- 
sand thousand  salutations  " 
— thousands  "  har  abada " 
(/'.i'.,  without  limit) ;  and  the 
usual  kingly  greeting,  "Allah 
ya  baka  sawan  rai  "  ("May 
("lod  give  you  long  life"). 
Away  went  our  messenger, 
the  faithful  I'.ako,  a  Nup^ 
Christian,  who  unfortunately 
met  with  a  violent  death  last 
June  when   plying   his  work 


as  an  evangelist. 


IIIK    INIKKUIK    (IK    A    KIIKUI- IKI)     1  0\\  N — I  H  K    la'll.DKK-S    DID    NOT    TAKK    1 NTO  C(  INSI DKK  A  rK>N 

From  a\  the  fact  thai   the  hu.l   hehi.nu  comI'I.etely  commands  it.  {I'hoto 


which  entirely  commands  the  place.  The 
original  Ijuiklers,  of  course,  did  not  meditate  the 
use  against  them  of  modern  weapons.  There 
are,  by  the  way,  usually  large  tracts  of  cultivated 
land  within  the  walls. 

At  length  it  became  evident  to  us  that  the 
city  of  Zaria  was  not  far  distant,  as  for  miles 
well  cultivated  country  had  been  traversed.  In 
accordance  with  Hausa  etiquette  we  sent  for- 
ward a  mounted  messenger  with  a  letter  to  the 
King  —  certainly  the  first  letter  in  his  own 
language  yet  written  by  a  white  man  ever 
received  by  that  monarch. 

Hut  it  must  not  be  supposed  that  the  epistle 
commenced  in  the  orthodo.x  English  way. 
"  Dear  Sir  "  would  never  do,  for  the  language 
has  no  word  for  "  dear,"  except  "  not  cheap." 
Nor  would  "  Your  Royal  Highness"  serve  its 
purpose.  The  great  Emir  would  certainly 
you    were    calling    him    names  !     The 

Vol.  xi.— '33- 


miagine 


The  evening  closed  in  with 
its  usual  accompaniment  of 
vivid  lightning  —  like  the 
sparks  from  the  great  fire  of  day  flashing  out 
from  the  smouldering  remains  before  their  total 
extinction. 

At  six  next  morning  we  were  off,  to  get  a 
little  nearer  the  city.  Ikit  although  the  sun 
rose  higher  and  higher  in  the  heavens,  no 
news  of  I'.ako  came  to  hand.  We  waited  not  a 
little  anxiously.  Evening  fell  once  more,  but 
ere  the  hasty  twilight  fled  a  messenger  galloped 
nitocamp  with  a  letter  from  Bako  and  a  present 
from  the  King.  The  ICmir  professed  to  be 
delighted  at  our  advent,  and  still  more  charmed 
by  the  letter  in  his  own  tongue. 

ICarly  the  next  day  our  carriers  began  their 
toilets.  They  heaped  upon  their  graceful  bodies 
all  the  garments  they  possessed.  It  was  so  hot, 
they  declared,  that  many  robes  were  a  necessity 
to  keep  the  heat  out.  '  Added  to  their  other 
ornaments  were  rings  on  their  fingers  and  rings 
on  their  toes  (if  thev  ran  to  them). 


258 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


Thus  they  felt  it  becoming  to  enter  the  great 
city.  It  was  an  anxious  time  for  us,  not  that  we 
feared  danger  ahead,  but  because  so  much  de- 
pended upon  our  reception  and  our  acceptability 
to  the  King  and  his  people. 

Our  anxiety  was  soon  allayed.  Presently  a 
horseman  hove  in  sight.  Surrounded  by  a  cloud 
of  dust  he  galloped  down  the  pathway.  Dressed 
in  silk  and  velvet  robes  of  many  colours,  his 
feet  resting  in  stirrups  of  beaten  silver,  his  horse 
half-hidden  by  magnificent  leather  trappings, 
this  rainbow-like  warrior  rode  up.  Waving  his 
spear  he  gave  us  welcome,  and  we  fell  in  behind 
him  in  our  march  through  the  streets. 

Wry  few  spectators  were  to  be  seen  outside 
the    city  -seen    in    the    anne.xed    photo. — but 


TMK  UATK!)  OK   ZAKCA— TIIK   CITV    HAS   KKill TV   THOUSAND    INHAUITANTS. 


within    the  gates   what   a   wondrous    spectacle 
tl               ! 

"'■    ■■■'ifv  ili.Mii.iiitl   inhabitants, 

lor  them.      We  marched 

in  through  ihc  city  gates  — white  men  first,  on 

h        '      '  'len  a  long  line  of  carriers  with  their 

I'  "f   ill  came  myself,  the  sick  man 

of  the  ]>  in  a  canvas  hammock  well 

I'  I'   sun's  fierce  rays. 


The  procession  througrli  a  mile  and  a  half  of 
streets  was  amusing  in  the  extreme.  In  front 
of  my  hammock  solemnly  walked  a  lame  carrier, 
bearing  aloft  a  huge  axe,  with  the  edge  signifi- 
cantly pointing  towards  me. 

I  might  have  been  a  prisoner  condemned  for 
treason  in  the  days  of  Queen  Elizabeth. 

The  sight  of  the  hammock  raised  the  people 
to  the  very  verge  of  madness.  Cries  of 
"  Minene  ?  "  ("  What  is  it  ?  "),  "  Gashi  !  " 
("  Just  look  at  him  !  "),  gave  place  to  the  yells  of 
"  Kai  !  " 

"  He's  an  elei)hant  !  "  shrieked  a  wag,  and 
with  uncontrollable  mirth  everyone  was  seized 
with  a  consuming  desire  to  explore  the  elephant's 
inside.      The   heads   of   the  venturesome  ones 

suffered  much,  how- 
ever, for  two  load- 
less  men  took  upon 
themselves  to  beat 
off  the  intruders 
with  stout  sticks. 

The  utmost  good 
humour  prevailed. 

The  palace  was 
at  last  reached,  and 
a  right  cordial 
welcome  was  ac- 
corded us  by  tlie 
cheery  King.  He 
bade  us  "  sit  down  " 
in  his  city  with  cool 
hearts,  assuring  us 
that  a  good  house 
was  at  our  disposal. 
And  a  kiiukT  wish 
\()U  could  not  ask 
tor  in  a  country 
where  —  unfounded 
rumour  has  it  -the 
inhabitants  keep 
their  fowls  in  re- 
laying hard-boiled 


\_l'hoto. 


them 


,*un 


rent    thr  air    with 


...  ...,K   of  excited  people 

.ive  exclamation, 
an  utterance  of  greatest 


In   tl. 
each   other, 
sermon    or 
good  ! 


itcmcnt   they  shook    hands   with 

This  they  do  if  a  remark    in  a 

in    conversation    strikes    them    as 


frigerators  to   prevent 
<-*ggs. 

'i"he  Emir  then  expressed  perplexity  as  to  our 
identity.  "  Vou  are  not  soldiers— you  are  not 
traders— you  are  not  globe-trotters — who  can 
you  be  ?  I  know,"  he  shrewdly  continued, 
"  that  there  are  many  kinds  of  white  men,  and 
if  I  were  to  visit  your  country  I  dare  say  I 
should  find  a  good  many  heathen  !  " 

We  declared  our  mission  and  departed  to 
dwell  with  "cool  hearts." 

It  may  have  been  with  the  intention  of  help- 
ing us  in  this  difficult  task  that  a  basin  of  dirty 
water  was  Hung  over  our  back-yard  wall,  fairly 
drenching  one  of  our  j)arty.  Hut  the  crowd 
declared  the  aggressor  to  be  mad  ;  and  on  every 
hand  kindness  and  goodwill  were  shown  towards 


Mv   i:xiM'Rii:x("i:s   w   k.wo. 


259 


From  a\ 


TIIK    LANK    LEAUlNi;    TO     I  M  E    U  M  I  IE    MKNS    1JWKI.1,I\(;  —  IT  WAS    USL'ALl-V 


CROWUtU    WITH    CUKIIIUS   SK;|II  SEEKS. 


US,  although  everyone  knew  we  were  religious 
teachers. 

The  Emir  even  invited  us  to  witness  the 
prayers  of  his  people  on  the  great  feast  day. 
This  we  excused  ourselves  from  doing,  and  the 
Emir  was  quite  satisfied  with  our  reason.  Our 
house  was  not  excessively  large 
nor  excessively  clean.  We  made 
it  habitable,  however. 

The  above  photo,  was  taken 
from  our  door,  and  shows  the 
lane  leading  up  to  our  porch. 
We  were  objects  of  curiosity 
all  day  long.  At  night  there 
was  peace,  for  the  King  had 
issued  a  proclamation  that  all 
pedestrians  after  dark  were  to 
be  regarded  as  thieves.  "  Honest 
men  walk  in  the  day,"  said  he. 

\\'e  lost  very  few  things.  One 
night  a  camera  was  stolen  and 
found  next  day  over  the  wall, 
with  its  interior  torn  out.  No 
doubt  some  would-be  scientist 
was  bent  on  discovering  the 
secret  contained  within  the 
small  black  box. 

Zaria  is  a  well  kept  city  and 
very  beautiful.  The  houses 
usually  consist    of  discon-         Froma\ 


nected  buildings  ot  mud  enclosed 
in  a  high  wall.  The  only 
entrance  to  the  "  house  "  is 
through  the  "  zauri  "  (porch), 
built  in  to  the  wall  and  having 
one  door  leading  into  the  street 
and  one  into  the  yard  or  "  house." 
The  lower  illustration  shows  a 
street  in  Zaria. 

Ihe  market  -  place  was  not 
very  grand.  \Ve  saw  three 
hundred  slaves  sitting  in  rows 
awaiting  purchase.  'I'hey  scarcely 
noticed  us,  so  little  interest  did 
they  seem  to  take  in  their  own 
existence.  This  was  in  1900. 
Vet  now  we  are  delighted  to 
say  the  slave-market  there  is  a 
thing  of  the  past. 

\\c  were  detained  in  Zaria 
just  a  week,  for  our  carriers 
refused  to  budge  during  the 
feast.  At  length  we  were  able 
to  depart  on  our  way  to  Kano. 
We  informed  the  King  of  our 
intention. 

To  our  surprise  a  messenger 
arrived  that  same  afternoon. 
With  serious  face  and  solenni 
tones  he  cried:  "  Ku  ji  maganan  sariki"  ("  Hear 
the  word  of  the  King'").  "'I  thank  you,'  he 
says,  '  for  the  way  in  which  you  have  dwelt  at 
peace  in  my  town.  Your  stay  has  done  no- 
thing but  good,  and  I  have  absolutely  no  cause 
for  complaint.      I    wish   you   Ciod-speed.      May 


\rhoto. 


A  STREET  SCENE  IN  ZAKIA. 


[Photo. 


26o 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


God  be  with  you.  But  let  me  warn  you.  The 
King  of  Kano  will  not  receive  you  as  I  have 
done.  He  will  treat  you  coldly.  He  will  keep 
you  at  a  distance.'     So  speaks  the  King." 

The  next  day  we  waited  upon  the  King  at 
sunnse.  Amid  a  deaft^ning  roar  of  beaten 
drums  we  were  ushered  into  his  presence. 

We  wished  him  farewell  and  laid  before  him 
our  parting  gift — two  penny  lead  -  pencils  ! 
.Meanness  wasn't  the  motive,  however.  The 
monarch  had  requested  fountain  pens,  but  we 
had  no  spare  ones,  and,  therefore,  bade  liim 
accept  two  pens  with  solid  ink  inside — they  were 
less  likely  to  go  wrong. 

Then  the  King  turned  to  his  courtiers.  "  Ku 
lashi,  ku  teffi  duka,"  he  cried  ("Get  up  and  go 
away,  all  of  you  "). 

They  walked  off  with  stately  mien.  Then, 
turning  to  his  mes.senger  of  yesterday,  he  said  : 
"Did  you  tell  them?  Did  you  tell  them?" 
When  the  affirmative  was  nodded,  he  reiterated 
the  warning  with  all  earnestness. 

"  I  would  rather  keep  you  here  than  mischief 
should  lx.-fall  you,"  he  added. 

Then  we  were  informed  that  a  messenger  had 
gone  on  to  Kano  to  say  that  we  were  travelling 
through  l-aki  to  that  city.    But 
on    rea<:Iiing    Zaria    city   gate 
our  carriers  refused  to  take  the 
Faki  road. 

Had  not  we  heard  the 
news  ?  The  slave-raiders  were 
devastating  that  district — our 
livrs  would  be  im[K-rilIed  and 
their  freedom  endangered. 
Nay,  it  was  certain  deatii 
to  us. 

Although  we  gave  no  cre- 
dence to  the  rumour,  nothini; 
would  induce  the  men  t(j 
move.  So  our  course  was 
Middrnly  and  une,\|x;cledly 
altered,  and  we  travelled  by 
r   of   the    three    routes 

:  ^  en  /.aria  and  Kano. 

How    nuirh    dfijended 
'i"hc    news 


il 

f , 


:ng 


on 
of 

Ml 
.(1 

lither 


W^e  learnt  later  that  the  greatest  excitement 
prevailed  at  Kano.  The  King  called  a  hasty 
council  and  asked  advice  of  his  courtiers. 

They  clamoured  for  our  lives.  In  fact,  cir- 
cumstantial accounts  of  our  massacre  weie 
carried  down  to  Lokoja. 

But,  interrupting  their  imperious  demands, 
there  spoke  the  \\'aziri — the  old  man  next  in 
rank  to  the  King.  "  Zaki  !  Zaki  !  "  ("Lion! 
Lion  I  ")  he  cried.  "  Touch  not  these  men,  or 
evil  will  befall  you.  They  have  done  nothing. 
Their  friends  are  powerful.  Do  not  imperil  our 
nation." 

"  Your  words  are  good  words,"  cried  the  King. 
"  But  those  men  shall  not  come  here."  I'en, 
ink,  and  paper  were  called  for  and  a  hasty  letter 
was  written.  The  King's  courier  galloped 
along  the  Faki  road  with  orders  to  stop  our 
approach. 

Meanwhile,  we  were  peacefully  journeying 
along  by  another  route.  Keffi — a  photo,  of 
which  is  here  given — was  reached  and  passed, 
and  then  we  knew  that  we  were  almost  at 
Kano's  gate. 

On  we  went  along  the  sandy  path,  the  scorch- 
ing sun  literally  roasting  the  parched-up  land. 


/■ttiiii  II] 


THE   CITV    WALLS   OK    KEFFI,    NEAR    KANO. 


l/'/ioto. 


'"'  ,     ■    I-;  ;.'.<.;  n   city  and   city. 

•  done?     Peaceful   while  men 

ming  unharmed." 

the    recent     proclanialiun 

''  lian   of   J'urkey     the    King 

^}    *'  IS    Ihey    call     him  —  warning 

Sokoio    uMi  /ari.i,   Kano  and   Katsina,  not    to 

favour  the  whi'--  man. 


till  the  walls  of  Kano  were  seen  reaching  up 
to  the  blue  vault  of  heaven. 

What  a  city  to  be  planted  in  the  heart  of 
Africa  !-  jjcrhaps  the  greatest  city  in  the  whole 
of  that  continent ;  certainly  by  far  the  most 
important  of  all  native  centres. 

It  is  the  meeting-place  of  great  caravans  and 
merchants  from  the  Mediterranean  and  tlie  Nile 


iMV    KXI'KRIKN'Ci:S    A'l"     KAXO. 


261 


ill  the  far  north,  and  from  the  miglity  rivers  of 
tlie  Nij^er  and  the  Zambesi  in  the  south,  l-rom 
tlie  Atlantic  in  the  west  and  Wadai  and  Lake 
I'chad  in  the  east  stream  a  ceaseless  throng  of 
traders.  Millions  pass  through  that  city  every 
year  bearing  their  merchandise,  which  includes 
the  "souls  of  men." 

From  out  its  gates,  one  of  which  is  shown 
in  our  ne.xt  illustration,  there  i)assed  cruel  slave- 
raiders  in  quest  of  booty  and  of  tribute-men  — 
for  even  Kano  is  but  a  vassal  State  to  Sokoto, 
the  religious  centre. 

After  an  unaccountable  delay  at  the  gate  we 
were  led  through  some  two  miles  of  streets, 
until  the  house  assigned  to  us  was  reached. 

"  To-morrow,"  said  the  Maaje,  or  Prime 
Minister,  "you  will  see  the  King."  Whereupon 
he  withdrew  and  left  us  to  ourselves. 


At  last  Paniso  was  reached.  What  an  uproar  ! 
(iuns  were  being  fired  off;  innumerable  drums 
were  being  beaten,  as  though  it  were  a  matter  of 
life  and  death  ;  long  brass  trumpets  blared 
forth  ;  and  the  strange  "  algaita  " — a  three-noted 
horn — made  weird  reverberations.  All  or  any 
of  these  "  musical "  instruments  went  off  at 
once — neither^time  nor  harmony,  neither  rhyme 
nor  reason,  was  considered.  But  as  for  the 
metre,  of  that  there  was  no  doubt — it  was  Ion". 

For  three  hours  we  were  treated  to  this 
minstrelsy — this  concert  of  discords.  A  vast 
crowd  had  gathered  round  us.  At  length  there 
came  a  lull  in  the  storm.  Then  arose  a  low 
murmur  on  the  outskirts  of  the  crowd.  From 
lip  to  lip  it  passed  until  every  mouth  voiced  the 
cry,  "  Waziri  !  Waziri  !  " 

A   clear  pathway  opened  out   in   the   throng 


!•  tout  a\ 


Till-:    liXrKDlTlON    ENTERING    KANO. 


\riwto. 


Early  next  morning  we  mounted  our  horses 
and,  escorted  by  a  cavalcade  of  brilliantly- 
attired  ecjuestrians  arrayed  in  finest  silks  and 
mounted  upon  richly-caparisoned  steeds,  we  rode 
out  to  Faniso,  where  the  King  has  a  country  seat. 

This  town  is  situated  .some  six  or  eight  miles 
away  from  Kano.  The  broad  road  between  the 
two  places  was  alive  with  peoi)le.  Horsemen 
galloped  to  and  fro,  caravans  slowly  wended 
their  way  ;  sightseers  mingled  with  merchant- 
men;  statesmen  "passed  tlie  time  of  day  "  to 
each  other,  indifferent  to  the  clank  of  the  chains 
of  men  led  off  to  execution,  or,  what  may  be  far 
worse,  life-long  slavery. 


and  up  galloped  that  famous  statesman.  Nimbly 
jumping  to  the  ground,  he  flung  the  reins  to 
a  slave  and  cried,  "Come— the  King  awaits 
you." 

Into  the  palace  we  i)ressed.  The  onlookers 
were  solicitous  for  our  behaviour  in  the  King's 
august  presence.  All  manner  of  advice  was 
showered  upon  us.  We  must  take  off  our  boots  ! 
No  ;  we  were  in  the  habit  of  removing  our  hats 
instead  ! 

Then  our  umbrellas  were  snatched  from  us, 
and  one  councillor  advised  me  urgently  to  be 
sure  and  hold  my  head  on  the  floor  for  si.\  hours 
when  I  saw  the    King  :      Dut   surely  even  a  tyro 


262 


THE    WIDE    WORE!)    MAGAZINE. 


at  phrenology  could  not  regard  with  equanimity 
the  bumps  on  the  head  of  a  visitor  for  six  long 
hours  !  All  the  instruments  of  music  (?)  burst 
forth  once  more,  and  we  were  ushered  into  the 
King's  presence. 

He  was  in  a  nine-arched  chamber  thronged 
with  well-dressed  warriors.  The  King  himself 
wore  a  black  turban,  only  shovving  his  eyes,  for 
men  veil  their  faces  here.  In  compact  rows 
sat  the  courtiers. 

•So  our  journey  was  ended  and  we  were 
preparing  to  state  our  request,  when  suddenly 
the  Emir  s[>ake. 

"Who  are  you?"  he  cried,  gruffly.  "Are 
you  soldiers  ?  " 

"  No." 

"  Are  you  traders — have  you  come  to  buy 
and  sell?" 

*'  No,  we  have  not." 

"  Have  you,  then,  come  to  see  the  world  ?  " 

"  No,  indeed  ;  that  is  not  our  object." 

"  Then  who  can  you  be  ?  "  he  cried. 

"  We  are  religious  teachers.  We  are 
Christians,  and  we  have  come  to  ask  permission 
to  teach  your  people." 

"Then  I  tell  you  this,  whoever  you  are.  You 
have  dared  to  come  here  without  permission." 

"  We  sent  you  notice  of  our  approach," 
(|uiLtly  replied  the  Hishoj). 

".\n(l  I  I  wrote  forbi(l<ling  you  to  come; 
and  then  I  hear  you  knocking  at  my  door. 
Now,  gel  up  and  go  back  !  " 

"  No,"  cried  the  Hishop.  "  Listen  to  us. 
Have  patience.  We  have  come  from  a  far-off 
country.  Wc  have  travelled  many  months.  The 
whole  <:ountry  knows  we  have  come  here " 

"  Yes,  ;ind  the  whole  country  will  know  you 
have  gone  back,"  interrupted  the  King. 

'•We  are  your  friends,"  urged  the  Bishoj). 
"  Wr  ask  you  for  a  house.  Appoint  men  to 
watch  us.  l.ct  them  spy  upon  us  night  and 
rlav       If  we  do   well,   Id    us    stay;  if  ill,   tin  n 


)  UH. 


No.    You  (aiinoi  stay,     answered  the  King. 
If  you  wish  to  live  m   my   city  you    nmsl  first 


go  to  Sokoto  and  get  a  written  permission  from 
the  Sultan.     Now  go  !  " 

A  chorus  of  approval  greeted  this  stalcmciU. 
"  Zaki  !  Zaki !  "  they  cried,  delighted  at  the 
Emir's  sternness.  There  was  nothing  left  to  be 
done  but  to  retire.  Once  again  we  w^ere  outside 
the  palace,  awaiting  the  news  of  our  fate. 

Another  three  hours'  delay  and  at  length  the 
Maaje  came,  looking  very  serious. 

"  Listen  to  the  word  of  the  King,"  he  slowly 
said.  "  You  are  allowed  three  days  to  do  your 
business,  and  then  you  are  to  go." 

An  extension  of  seven  days  was  eveniually 
granted  us.  Nothing  would  induce  the  King  to 
see  us  again.  On  our  return  to  Kano  we  found 
our  carriers  alarmed  at  our  prolonged  absence. 
They  had  believed  the  rumour  circulated  in  the 
city  that  we  should  never  be  seen  again— that 
we  had  gone  forth  out  of  the  town  to  meet  our 
doom.  They  had  packed  up  their  goods  in 
readiness  to  flee. 

We  took  our  full  seven  days  and  then  made 
our  way  back  to  Zaria.  The  King,  however, 
absolutely  forbade  our  residence  there,  although 
he  still  asserted  his  friendship. 

So,  after  some  months'  delay  at  Gierko,  thirty- 
four  miles  to  the  south  of  Zaria,  the  i)arty 
returned  to  the  River  Binue,  followed  by  the 
kindly  cries  of  Zaria's  multitudes.  "  Sai  ku 
dawo  !  "  ("  Until  you  come  back  again  ! "). 

And  so  ended  our  journey  to  Kano.  But  k-t 
it  be  carefully  noted  that  these  Mohammedan 
people  were  not  influenced  so  much  by  religious 
considerations  as  material  ones.  They  gave  us 
every  opportunity  of  explaining  our  creed. 

On  every  hand  the  verdict  was,  "You  white 
people  are  good  ;  your  religion  is  good.  But 
we  cannot  allow  you  foothold  in  our  country  or 
you  will  abolish  that  wb.ich  we  value  above  all 
else  — the  slave  trade  !  " 

Although  our  expedition  was  an  ai)parent 
failure,  yet  one  thing  of  value  we  learnt,  that 
boll)  priests  and  people  were  ready  to  listen  to 
and  welcome  gladly  tiie  news  of  a  prophet 
greater  than   Mohammed. 


The  Detective  in  the  'Barrel. 


By  Frederic  Lees,  of  Paris. 


Sous-Brigadier  Poignet,  the  hero  of  the  following  little  story,  is  one  of  the  most  daring  members 
of  the  Paris  Detective  Department.  Mr.  Lees  here  describes  one  of  his  most  recent  exploits, 
an  exciting  night  adventure  at  the  Bercy  wine  warehouses,  where,  by  hiding  himself  in  an 
empty  cask,  the  detective  succeeded  in  bringing  to  justice  a  number  of  dangerous  thieves. 
The  photographs  illustrating  the  narrative  are  careful  reconstructions  of  the  incidents  described, 
and  were    taken  at    the  places  where    the  adventure  happened. 


ICTION  has  glorified  and  consider- 
al)ly  embellished  the   deeds   of  the 
skilled  deteetive. 
We  know,  when 
we  read  a  delec- 
that     if     the 


The 

certain 


tive      story, 

wretched  criminal  has  left 
as  much  as  a  thumb-mark 
on  a  dusty  window  sill  his 
detection  and  arrest  will 
only  be  a  matter  of  time  — 
unless  he  chooses  to  com- 
mit suicide,  as  he  frequently 
does  in  literature  of  this 
class. 

The  more  modest,  though 
equally  meritorious,  arts  of 
the  ordinary  detective,  how- 
ever,    "the     plain -clothes 
constable,"  as  lie  is  usually 
termed,    are     passed     over 
as     not     being     sufficiently 
interesting      to     attract 
readers       \'et  the  criminals 
he  has    to   hunt    down    are 
more    dangerous     in    every 
res[)ect,  both  to  society 
in  general    and   the 
police  in  particular, 
than     the     clever 
scoundrels  who  strut 
through    the    pages 
of      the      average 
detective  romance. 


SUUa-UKK.AIXKK    I'llKiNKT 
CI.OTHF.S. 

/•>•!>/«   41    I' koto. 


plain-clothes  constable  on  night  duty   in 
parts    of   large    cities    often    runs  great 

risks.  The 
criminals  with 
w  h  o  m  he  has 
to  contend  are 
like  rats  —  cow- 
ardly whilst 
there  is  any 
chance  of  escape 
left,  but  fight- 
ing desperately 
when  cornered, 
as  ma  n  y  a 
brave  officer 
of  the  law  has 
found   to  his  cost. 

In  Paris  there  are  still 
several  (juarters  where 
crime  with  violence  is 
only  too  rife.  One  of 
the  worst  of  these  is 
Uercy,  a  district  lying  to 
the  extreme  east  of  the 
city.  In  some  respects  it 
resembles  the  East  end 
of  London,  being  close 
to  the  river  and  the  great 
southern  railway  line — the 
Paris,  Lyons,  and  Medi- 
terranean. All  the  wine 
which  comes  to  Paris  by 
rail  or  river  is  stored  here 
in    long,    low,    dingy    ware- 


IN    I'l.AI.V 


264 


THE   WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


houses,  which  cover  some  eighty  acres  of  ground. 
In  this  "City  of  Wine,"  which  is  divided  into 
streets  and  courts,  all  the  leading  wholesale 
wine  merchants  have  their  offices.  Probably 
they  are  too  wise  to  leave  money  in  the  little 
one  or  two  roomed  wooden  buildings  which 
serve  them  as  counting-houses,  and  burglaries 
are  rare  ;  but  there  are  thousands  of  casks,  full 
or  empty,  lying  around— a  constant  temptation 
to  the  dishonest,  who  may  be  pardoned  for 
imauining  that  a  few  would  never  be   missed. 


discipHne  rather  than  modesty  which  seals  his 
tongue.  Physically  he  is  a  little  above  the 
medium  height,  but  powerfully  built,  and  there 
is  a  grip  of  steel  in  the  stubby,  spatulate  fingers 
of  his  hands.  Muscle  and  nerve  are,  however, 
common  enough  in  the  police  force,  but  it  is 
not  always  that  shrewdness,  patience,  and  a 
love  of  the  profession  are  allied  to  them,  and 
it  was  this  combination  of  qualifications  which 
induci.'d  the  police  authorities  to  remove  M. 
Poignet  from  the  centre  of  the  city,  where   he 


From  a\ 


TIIK    WINK   WAKEHOUSK    WIIF.KK    MOST   OT    THE    KOBBERIES    OCCUKKEI>. 


[P/io/0. 


1  nc  re  not  often  sl(jlen,  for  a  barrel 

of  w               ^       nearly  five  hundredweight,  and 
1  not  be  an  ea.sy  thing  to  dispose  of  even  if 
r.  1  ;  but  empty  casks  arc  (juickly 

' ...1  readily  be  sold  again  for  a  few 

many  complaints  of  thefts  of  empty  casks 

'  '  "'      '  r<!  of  Police,  whose  office 

'  r  the    iiilrepot,    that    he 

ily  instructed  one  of  his  most  active  and 

Sous-Brigadier    Poignet  -to 

'  I'v  to  discover  the  thieves. 

•t  is  a  good  specimen  of 

I  I. III.     He  is  a  (iascon,  and 

b>^"'-  .'iur<eand  cool   courage  of  his 

Kf'"^f    '••  m,    DWrtagnan.       In    fmly  one 

f  he  differ  from  the  typical  (}ascon, 

''Jf  II'    '■'■  '  'ud    it   is  diffiriiU   lo  get 

him   to  .ploils;   but  perhaps  it   is 


was  performing  ordinary  police  duties,  and  send 
him  to  a  less  law-abiding  district. 

On  receiving  his  instructions,  Sous-Brigadier 
Poignet  went  to  examine  the  premises  of  the 
firm  who  had  suffered  most  from  the  robberies. 
There  were  dozens  of  casks  of  all  sizes  lying 
about.  ("lose  to  the  roadway  was  a  large 
barrel,  the  head  of  which  had  been  knocked 
out  and  |)laced  inside,  'i'he  detective  studied 
this  barrel  closely.  Several  of  the  staves  were 
slightly  s|)rung,  and  it  immediately  strmk 
Poignet  that,  if  he  concealed  himself  in  this  cask 
and  put  the  head  on,  the  cracks  in  the  barrel 
would  afford  him  sufficient  air  to  prevent 
suffocation,  and  perhaj)s  enable  him  to  see  the 
thieves  sufficiently  well  to  be  able  to  identify 
them  afterwards. 

Shortly  after  midnight,  therefore,  Poignet, 
dressed  in  an   old   suit  of  clothes,  and  with   his 


II 1 1;    DiCTEcrixi:    i\    iiu:   iiakrhl. 


265 


inseparable  companion  -a  small  "  biilklog  ' 
revolver  in  the  side  pocket  ol  his  jacket, 
strolleil  down  to  the  wharf  anil  crept  into  the 
l)arrel.  Ihe  lid  was,  fortunately,  loose,  and  he 
kept  it  in  place  by  pressing  against  it  with  his 
hand  and  knee. 

There  is  small  choice  of  position  inside  a 
barrel.  No  one  l)Ul  1  )iogenes  ever  recommentled 
a  barrel  as  a  place  of  residence,  and  he  did 
not  care  for  comfort.  M.  Poignet,  though  a 
philosopher,  did  not  ap[)reciate  his  domicile. 
His  knees  were  pressed  against  his  chin,  and 
besides  incipient  cramp  he  was  ncjt  altogether 
sure  of  what  was  going  to  ha[)pen  next.  The 
thieves  might  not  come,  and  he  would  have  all 
his  discomfort  for  nothing  ;  or  they  might 
discover  his  presence,  and  flee  ere  he  was  able 


detective  could  just  make  out  the  shape  of  one 
of  the  long  two-wheeled  drays  used  in  I'aris  for 
conveying  wine.  Three  shadowy  lorms  stood 
near  it.  Presently  the  watcher  saw  two  of  the 
men  walk  stealthily  towards  the  row  of  casks, 
and  then  he  heard  a  soft  swish  as  the  barrels 
were  rolled  towards  the  cart.  The  third  man  had 
meanwhile  let  down  the  end  of  the  long  dray, 
the  barrels  were  soon  slid  on,  and  the  men 
came  back  for  another  cou[)le  of  casks.  Then 
something  occurred  on  which  Poignet  had  not 
reckoned. 

"  Let's  have  this  one,"  whispered  one  man, 
placing  his  hand  on  the  barrel  in  which  the 
detective  was  concealed.  "It's  twice  as  big  as 
the  others,  and  ought  to  fetch  twice  as  much." 

"All  right !  "growled  his  companion.    "  You're 


A    PHOTOGRAPH    TAKEN    AKTER   THE    EVENT   TO   SHOW    HOW 
DETECTIVE    POIGNET   ENTERED   THE    BARREL. 


^.Wi)..,0;7. 


to  disengage  himself  from  his  wooden  prison. 
The  alternative  which  would  have  suggested 
itself  to  the  average  man — that  they  might  kill 
him  whilst  he  was  in  a  position  that  made  it 
impossible  for.  him  to  defend  himself — never 
seems  to  have  entered  his  hi'ad.  T'oignet  has  a 
su[)reme  contempt  for  what  are  called  "  the 
dangerous  classes." 

After  he  had  been  in  the  barrel  for  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour,  as  nearly  as  he  could  guess, 
Detective  Poignet  heard  a  slight  sound,  and 
soon  knew  that  a  horse  and  cart  were  approach- 
ing as  quietly  as  possible.  The  cart  came 
nearer  and  nearer,  and  then  stopped  almost 
opposite   him.       Peering   through  a  chink,  the 

Vol.  xi.— 34. 


a  cooper  and  ought  to  know   what's  best.     It's 
all  the  same  to  me." 

The  idea  that  his  hiding-place  might  be 
carried  away  by  the  thieves  had  not  entered  the 
detective's  mind  for  a  moment.  He  had  ex- 
pected to  catch  a  glimpse  of  the  men,  or,  failing 
that,  to  have  emerged  from  his  tub  as  soon 
as  they  had  left  and  follow  them.  But  this 
accident,  although  somewhat  disconcerting  at 
first  thought,  was  an  unexpected  piece  of  good 
luck,  for  he  would  now  be  able  to  luu]  out  where 
they  stored  their  stolen  goods,  besides  bemg 
able  subsecjuently  to  arrest  the  whole  gang, 
which  he  could  not  hope  to  do  single  handed. 


266 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


From  a\ 


HOW  THE  CASK   THIEVES   WENT  TO   WOKK 


{Photo. 


Whilst  Toij^nct  was  lhinkin<;  this  the  two  men 
began  to  roll  the  cask,  'i'he  cart  was  some 
eigliteen  or  twenty  yards  away,  and  locomotion 
inside  a  barrel  consists  of  a  series  of  somersaults 
— a  mode  of  progression  as  unpleasant  as  it  is 
undignified  ;  but  Detective  Poignet  had  been  a 
sailor  before  he  was  a  policeman,  and  being 
rolled  head  over  heels  half  a-dozen  times  did  not 
affect  liini  greatly.  At  last  the  uncomfortable 
journey  came  to  an  end  and  the  two  men  began 
to  push  at  the  cask  to  get  it  on  the  dray. 
"  It's  precious  heavy,"  said  one. 
"  It  feels  as  though  it  were  full  of  wine,"  said 
ihc  other. 

"A  good  job  if  it  is,"  growled  the  third  man, 
who  was  evidently  one  of  the  porters  employed 
at  the  enlre(>M.  "  Hut  there's  not  much  fear  of 
that.      If  '  !    have    needed    something    more 

than  a  «■     ,         i  rats  like  you  to  roll   it  tlirough 
this  mud  if  it  had  been  full  of  wine.      Of  course 
'      !'ise  it  is  twice  as  big  as  the 

• ,,....,., I-  you   do  not    know  how  to 

ile  a  cask.      Ix.'t  me  come." 

Heing  a  big  man,  with  strength  as  well  as  the 

knaik  of  experience,  the  barrel  was  socjn   lifted 

on  the  dray  ;  and  then  the  three  men  retired  a 

lew   yards  and   held   a    whispered   conference. 

■'   about?  wondered   Poignet.      Mad 

-reil    him,  and   were  they   now   de- 

liat  they  should  do  with  him  ?     The 

not  fifty  yards  away,  and  they  might 

v.     "i    to  lip  him  into  the  Seine  and  leave  him 


to  sink  or  swim  ;  or  they  might  take  him  off  to 
their  haunts  and  serve  him  as  Morgiana  did  the 
Forty  Thieves,  by  pouring  a  cauldron  of  boiling 
water  through  the  bunghole  of  his  prison. 

But  the  sous-brigadier  is  not  the  sort  of  man 
to  let  such  thoughts  trouble  him  long.  He 
reflected  that  it  was  far  more  likely  that  the 
thieves  never  suspected  his  presence,  and 
were  probably  only  discussing  the  question 
whether  they  should  take  any  more  casks  or  be 
contented  with  what  they  had.  This  suppo- 
sition proved  to  be  correct.  The  men  evciilually 
decided  they  could  take  one  more,  and  this 
having  been  placed  on  tlie  dray  ihc  journey 
commenced. 

It  was  slow  and  apparently  circuitous,  but 
after  about  half  an  hour  the  dray  stopped,  the 
barrels  were  unloaded,  and  the  one  containing 
the  detective  was  rolled  another  dozen  yards  or 
so  and  then  placed  on  end,  the  men  again 
grumbling  at  its  great  weight. 

By  this  tin)e  M.  Poignet  had  had  quite  enough 
of  his  cask,  for  he  had  been  in  it  more  than 
an  hour  and  a  half— all  the  while  in  a  painfully 
cramped  position.  But  it  would  have  been 
dangerous  to  emerge  before  the  men  were  gone, 
and  they  seemed  in  no  hurry  to  leave.  Fully  a 
quarter  of  an  hour  elapsed  before  they  separated, 
and  then,  after  waiting  a  fesv  minutes  longer  to 
make  sure  the  field  was  clear.  Detective  Poignet, 
revolver  in  hand,  stealthily  raised  his  head  above 
the  edge  of  the  barrel.     No  one  was  about,  and 


THE    DETFXTIVE    IN    THE    BARREL 


267 


he  clambered  out  of  his  cask  and  walked  about 
for  a  few  minutes  to  shake  off  the  cramp. 

He  struck  a  match,  and  saw  that  hv  was  in  a 
kind  of  wt)oden  shed  or  warehouse.  There 
were  two  or  three  dozen  casks,  a  few  coopers' 
tools,  and  one  or  two  bales  of  goods— uncon- 
sidered trifles  which  the  precious  trio  had 
managed  to  pick  up  at  various  times. 

Cifoping  his  way  through  this  collection  of 
stolen  pro[)erty,  Poignet  at  last  reached  the 
road,  and,  as  soon  as  he  was  able  to  take  his 
bearings,  found  that  he  was  in  the  Avenue 
Saint  Mande,  a  very  little  distance  from  his  own 
district. 

The  rest  of  the  story  is  speedily  told.  The 
next  night  a  sonricicre,  or  "  mousetra[),"  was 
laid  for  the  cask-stealers.  Half-a-dozen  police- 
men were  hidden  in  ambush,  and  when  the 
dray  appeared  with  its  cargo  of  stolen  casks   the 


officers  rushed  out  of  their  hiding-places  and 
the  thieves  were  secured  red-handed.  'I'he 
ringleader  of  the  gang  was  a  coo[)er,  who  defied 
cum[)elilion  by  selling  goods  which  had  been 
stolen  ready-made.  One  of  his  accomplices  was 
a  wine-[)orler,  and  the  other  one  of  those  loafers 
who  do  not  much  care  how  they  make  a  living 
so  long  as  it  is  dishonestly. 

This  exploit,  needless  to  say,  brought  con- 
siderable kudos  to  Sous-P.rigadier  Poignet,  but  it 
is  not  one  of  the  feats  on  which  he  most  prides 
himself,  lor  there  was  no  mental  skill  in  it — 
pluck  and  patience  being  the  only  (jualities 
re([uired. 

That  he  is  thought  well  of  by  his  superiors 
will  be  obvious  from  a  remark  made  by  one  of 
his  officers.  "  A\'ith  five  hundred  Poignets,"  he 
said,  "  I  would  make  Paris  the  safest  city  in 
Euro[)e." 


f/^Monrnj 


MOW    THK    DF.I  I-;CTI\F.    I.oOKKn   Will  N    I 
KMEKGEl)    FROM    THE    1!AKKF:i.    IN     '"111 
TIIIKVF.S'    S'lOKEIlOUSE. 

Ftvir  a  ritoto. 


The   Last  of   the   Bushrangers. 

]')V  Herbert  Shaw. 

An  account  of  the  brief  career  of  Andy  Flick,  a  notorious  Australian  desperado.  Having  broken  out  of 
gaol,  Flick,  with  the  police  hot  upon  his  track,  made  for  the  station  where  the  author  was  employed  as  a 
stock-rider.     Mr.  Shaw  graphically  describes  the  stirring  events  which  followed  the  arrival  of  the  visitor. 


r.S  TRALI.W  posterity  has  enve- 
i[)c(J  in  a  halo  of  romance  the 
■Iceds  of  the  earUer  "  knii^hts  of  tlie 
bush,"  and  tales  of  the  cold-blooded, 
ferocious  cruelty  of  (lardner,  Hall, 
and  others  like  them  havej^iven  place  to  legends 
of  the  milder  and  poetically-named  "  Captain 
Starlii;ht,"  "  Moonlight,"  and  the  imposing 
"  Thunderbolt,"  around  who.se  memories  lurk 
no  greater  crimes  than  the  occasional  playful 
shooting  of  an  overbold  policeman  on  capture 
bent,  deeds  the  average  bushman  is  apt  to  con- 
done on  the  ground  that  "  there's  lots  of  spare 
'  traps,'  anyway." 

Ihe  subject  of  my 
story  was  unfortunate  in 
that  lie  was  born  a 
generation  too  late,  and 
owing  to  the  conse(}uent 
spread  of  civilization,  tele- 
gra[)hs,  police  service, 
and  other  deterrent  cir- 
cumstances his  career  was 
cut  short  in  the  midst  of 
his  Ojiportunities,  and  a 
name  that  might  have 
fwren  as  historic  as  any 
of  his  forerunners  now 
dwindles  towards  oblivion 
with  no  more  imposing 
rtrord  than  one  man- 
slaughter, a  few  horse- 
stealings,  some  minor 
tTCi-iilritities,  and  the 
fiiiil     .1.  llii.dis     outburst 

>iis    to    his   own    demise,    a    white 

1,   a   station     nianager,    and    a    native 

ii.i'  ^•  I    irll,  two  of  them   ncvcr    to  ri.se  again, 

victims  to  a  Colt's  revolver,  barked  l)y  n  nasty, 

vindir  live  temper. 

I'lick  was  the  outcome  ut  a  union 
a  white  father  and  an  aboriginal 
nd,  like  most  half-rastes,  inherited  the 
i»th  jiarents  atid  the  virtues,  if  existent, 
<  r.  Crrf.iinly  his  youth  was  of  great 
promise,  unfulfillrd  (it  pointed  directly  towards 
the  gallows,  but  it  hap|)ened  he  was  shot),  and 
•>'    '  '        bteeti   We  find  him  undergoing 

p"  :.iiti(m  in   Her   Majesty's  garil  at 

'rarr(K)ml)a,   in    Queensland,    whither   he  had 
'''  '    '>>'   a    train   of    circumstances   com- 

t!         ■■5  with  a  misunderstanding  with  a  miner 


on  a  point  of  ownership  of  certain  portable 
property.  This  treatment  apparently  did  not 
have  the  desired  effect,  for  shortly  after  his 
release  Mr.  Flick  was  unfortunate  in  his  selec- 
tion of  a  steed,  and  being  caught  red-handed  in 
the  act  of  "  faking  "  the  brand  of  a  missing  horse 
he  became  for  five  years  an  inmate  of  another 
A\'est  -  country  gaol.  During  tliat  period  pro- 
perty in  the  immediate  neighbourhood  was 
more  secure  and  horse -owners  slept  serene. 
Our  hero  when  released  was  evidently  sobered 
by  his  experience,  and  no  doubt  considering  his 


passmg 


years 


had 


brought    in 
degree 


rilK    Al    IHciK,    Ml. 

h'roiii  a  I'koto, 


Ml- KI'.KF.;  r    SMAW. 

.  by  1 1  una. 


their  tram  a 
of  discretion 
and  seriousness  that 
entitled  him  to  take  a 
wife,  he  did  so,  and  we 
next  find  him  united  to 
a  full-blooded  aboriginal 
woman,  whose  pride  in 
her  semi -white  man  did 
ncjt  deter  him,  when  tired 
of  matrimony,  from  kill- 
ing her  in  cold  blood.  A 
mistakenly  humane  jury 
look  the  more  lenient 
view  of  his  crime,  and, 
instead  of  ridding 
Australia  of  him  for  ever, 
sentenced  him  to  ten 
years  in  gaol.  It  was 
while  lying  in  Norman- 
ton  Prison,  en  toii/e 
to  St.  Helena,  the  island 
gaol  of  Queensland, 
scenes    in    our    hero's    career 


n 

VI 

ol 


I  i'     M   I  |< 


that    the    final 
commenced. 

.Space  being  limited  in  consequence  of  an 
influ.x  of  law  misconstruers  from  the  Croydon, 
then  a  new  "  gold  rush,"  Andy  Hick's  cell  was 
shared  by  a  gentleman  named  White,  who  was 
imdergoing  a  ten  years'  sentence.  These  two 
choice  spirits,  fintling  the  inaction  of  a  cell 
residence  irksome,  set  about  devising  a  method 
of  escape.  So  well  was  their  industry  rewarded 
that,  aided  by  the  architectural  jK-culiarities  of 
their  prison,  a  very  primitive  structure,  they 
were  enabled  to  prise  up  a  slab  in  the  flooring, 
tear  a  hole  in  the  galvanized  iron  sheathing 
l)elow,  and  gain  the  ojjen  air.  Here  the 
apparent  certainty  of  recapture  seems  to  have 
disheartened    White,    who    resolved    to    make 


THE    LAST    OF    THE    BUSHRANGERS. 


•69 


capital  out  of  being  the  first  to  inform  the 
police  of  Flick's  escape,  which  he  did,  and  was 
proni[)tly  hauled  back  to  another  cell.  In  the 
meantime,  however,  he  had  given  Flick  an 
hour's  start,  and  that  astute  worthy  had  made 
such  excellent  use  of  his  time  as  to  steal  a  horse, 
saddle,  and  bridle,  with  a  revolver,  from  the 
police  themselves,  and  had  taken  to  the  track- 
less bush  south-westwards,  his  idea  being  to  gain 
that  district  in  the  (lulf  country  known  as  the 
Tableland,  then  the  resort  of  half  the  notorious 
police-sought  characters  in  North-East  Australia. 

A  number  of  Queensland  Mounted  Police, 
assisted  by  native  trackers,  were  at  once  dis- 
patched in  chase,  but  so  skilfully  were  the 
fugitive's  tracks  laid  amongst  the  numberless 
cattle  and  horses  that  roam  the  stations  there- 
abouts that  organized  {pursuit  was  rendered 
hopeless,  and  it  was  not  until  some  sixteen 
days  had  ela[)sed  tliat  a  solitary  trooper, 
accompanied  by  one  black  tracker,  came  in 
sight  of  their  quarry  just  as  he  reached  the 
homestead  build- 
ings of  Dawn  Hills 
cattle  station,  about 
four  hundred  miles 
south-west  from  the 
scene  of  his  escape. 

The  writer  was  a 
stock-rider  on  Dawn 
Hills  at  the  time 
(1S90),  and  can 
therefore  speak  of 
the  last  achieve- 
ments of  Mr.  Flick 
with  authority  as  an 
eye  -  witness.  The 
boss  had  gone  to  a 
back  creek  that 
morning,  taking 
with  him  the  two 
other  stockmen  and 
a  couple  of  blacks. 
I  being  down  with 
fever  and  ague  had 
remained  at  home, 
and  sat  with  the 
cook,  a  Chinaman 
with  ablutionary 
prejudices,  beneath 
tile  bark  veranda  of 
the  boss's  hut.  It 
was  past  four  in  the 
afternoon  and  the 
fever  had  left  me 
for  the  day.  I  was 
reading  a  book  from 
the  boss's  library, 
which  consisted,  as 


is  usual  in  the  bush,  of  about  half-a-dozen  cover- 
less  volumes  with  most  of  the  essential  pages 
lacking.  Presently  I  was  disturbed  by  Ah  Foo, 
who  up  to  now  had  been  sucking  vigorously  at  an 
opium  pipe.  "  Tlaveller,"  he  laconically  re- 
marked, and  looking  up  I  saw  riding  towards  us 
a  man  on  a  bay  horse  which  showed  evidences 
of  having  come  far.  He  rode  up  and,  greeting 
us  with  a  "dood-day,"  swung  his  right  leg  over 
and  sat  side-saddle  fashion.  I  noticed  he 
was  a  half-caste,  and  remarked  that  he  seemed 
to  be  lacking  the  usual  paraphernalia  of  a  travel- 
ling bushman.  "  Are  you  the  boss?  "  said  he. 
"Just  now,"  I  answered.  *' S'pose  you  can 
spare  me  a  bit  of  tucker  ?  "  he  asked.  "  Yes," 
I  said;  "go  down  to  the  hut  with  the  cook  and 
he'll  give  you  some,  ^^'hat's  become  of  your 
swag?"  "Oh,  I  left  it  in  my  camp  yesterday 
an'  somebody  shook*  it,"  he  answered.  Ah 
Foo  had  started  towards  the  men's  hut,  a 
new  galvanized  iron   building  about   fifty  yards 

'  Stole. 


I  ni:  bim  1    i;.\.\u   uL  1 


Mil.    1I..1UII.1;   M  l.AK.ll  1  I-M-IJ    L'l'    IN    HIS   iAUni-F 


270 


THE    WIDE    \\'ORLD    MAGAZINE. 


away,  and  the  traveller  followed  him.      I  had 

turned  away  to  replace  my  book  when  suddenly 

I  heard  a  scurry  of  hoofs,  and  a  voice  shouted, 

"  Flick,  you're  my  prisoner  !  " 

I  jumped  round,  and  there  two  new  arrivals 

appeared.     A  mounted  trooper  and  a  uniformed 

black  tracker  were  galloping  towards  us.     Like 

a  flash  the  traveller  had  slipped  from  his  saddle 

and  was  fumbling  at  his  holsters. 

"Surrender!"     called    the     trooper     as     he 

galloped  up. 

"Go  to  the  deuce!"  shouted    Flick,  as   he 

levelled  a  pistol. 

The    trooper    stooped 

over    his    horse's    neck 

and      reached     for     his 

weapon.       He    was    too 

late.     Bang  !     The  shot 

rang  out  and  the  trooper 

straightened    up    in    his 

saddle.      It  was  all  over 

in  a  second.    As  the  men 

came    close    together   as 

the    horse    raced     past, 

bang !    again    went    the 

revolver,  and  the  trooper's 

body  fell  to  the  ground. 

'I'he  riderless  horse  stop- 

I)ed  short  some  distance 

off,  and  Flick  ran  for  the 

hut,  entered,  and  slam- 
med the  door. 

At  the  first  report  Ah 

Foo  had  rushed   behind 

tiic     nearest     tree,    and 

now,    Seeing     the    coast 

clear,     he     scuttled     for 

safety,  his  pigtail  flying 
behind  him,  to  where  I 
stood  astounded  at  the 
scene.  I  was  weak  wiili 
the  fever  and  sank  ex- 
hausted on  a  stool.  Ah 
Foo,  trembling  in  every 
limb,  brought  me  a  riHe 
.standing  in  the  hut.      It 

was  one  of  the  old  Sniders,  and  would  blow 
a  hole  through  a  stone  wall.  Just  in  front 
was  a  tall  tree  stum[),  into  which  we  had  driven 
hooks  to  tie  our  horses  up.  Ah  Foo  carried  a 
slof)l  and  placed  it  behind  the  tree,  and  I 
dragged  myself  to  it  and  sal  down,  uiili  ilie  rifle 
resting  on  one  of  the  hooks 

Out  in  the  open  the  policeman's  body  lay 
motionless,  and  in  the  distance  I  could  see  the 
blark  trooper  catching  his  master's  horse.  I 
to  the  man  in  the  hut:  "I  by,  you 
iM'.rL  ;  "  He  appeared  at  the  door,  with  a  loaf 
of  bread  in  his  hand. 


"  What's  up  ?  " 

"  What  d'you  reckon  you're  going  to  do  ? 
And  who  are  you,  anyway  ?  " 

"I'm  Andy  Flick;  I  got  away  from  Normanton 
'jug,' an'  that  cove  has  tracked  me  up.  I'm 
going  to  have  a  feed,  take  some  blankets  an'  a 
fresh  horse,  an'  make  tracks  ;  an'  if  you  ain't 
a  fool,  you  won't  try  to  stop  me." 

"Well,"  I  said,  "I'm  considered  a  good 
shot,  and  just  now  you're  covered  by  a 
•450-bore  Snider.  Walk  one  step  out  of 
that   hut   and   you're  dead." 


;    j 

b 

1  ' 

,  .J 

\ 

.J 

V 

I 

i; 

4 

\ 

-  *-. 

Wll.l  ,'    I    SAM),    'VVAI.K    "NK    SIKI'   OUT   Ol"    THAT    HUl'    ANi)    Vliu'l;!-.    DICAL). 


He  gave  vent  to  an  ejaculation  and  jumped 
inside,  slamming  the  door. 

I  had  sat  there  for  about  ten  minutes  when 
the  boss  and  his  parly  cantered  up. 

"Halloa!"  he  said;  "fever  better?  What 
are  you  up  to  ?  Kangaroo  shooting  ? "  Then 
his  eye  travelled  over  the  open  to  the  trooper's 
body.  "Good  heavens  !  what's  this  you've 
done?"  he  asked.  I  explained  mailers.  "The 
cold-blooded  scoundrel  !  "  he  said.  "  We'll  have 
to  t,il<c  liiiii  and  send  for  the  police";  and 
he  nxle  off  to  the  hut. 

"  Flick  !"  he  called. 


THE    EAST    Ol-    THK     BUSHRANGERS. 


"  Halloa  !  "  said  Flick,  from  inside  ;  "  what  are 
you  going  to  do  ?  " 

"  Look  here,"  said  the  boss,  sternly,  "  your 
game's  up.  You'll  have  to  answer  for  this  job, 
so  come  out  of  that  and  give  up." 

Flick's  face  appeared  at  the  opening  in  the 
iron  wall  that  acted  as  a  window,  and  he  saw  wc 
all  had  him  covered. 

"  All  right,"  said  he  ;  "  come  round  to  the 
door  an'  I'll  open  it."  The  boss  dismounted 
and  walked  to  tlie  door,  standing  waiting  outside. 
Slowly  the  door  opened,  then,  without  a 
moment's  warning,  l-'lick  bounded  out,  fired  a 
revolver  point-blank  at  the  boss,  and  ran  for  the 
bush.  \Ve  were  taken  so  completely  unawares 
that  I  was  the  only  man  nearly  ready.  Sighting 
quick  along  the  barrel  I  fired,  and  Flick  spun 
round  and  tell  to  the  ground,  but,  almost  imm.e- 
diately  springing  up,  he  gained  the  shelter  of  a 
clump  of  pandanus  bushes  near  at  hand  and 
disappeared. 

In  the  meanwhile  the  boss  had  fallen  and  lay 
across  the  threshold  of  the  hut.  The  excite- 
ment had  given  me  strength  and  we  all  ran  to 
him,  picked  him  up,  and  laid  him  on  the  table 
in  the  hut.  He  was  shot  in  the  left  side,  the 
bullet  having  apparently 
gone  straight  through  him, 
coming  out  under  the 
shoulder. 

Subsequently  we  found 
it  had  deflected  on  the  ribs 
and  run  round,  doing  him 
but  little  injury.  While  we 
were  attending  to  him  the 
trooper  was  also  brought 
in ;  he  was  quite  dead, 
being  shot  through  the 
body  and  head. 

Night  was  now  approach- 
ing, but  we  were  all  keen 
on  revenge.  I  was  certain 
Flick  could  not  carry  my 
Snider  bullet  far,  so,  headed 
by  the  native  tracker,  we 
started  on  his  trail.  Here 
and  there  a  gout  of  blood 
showed  the  fugitive  was 
well  hit.  Through  the  first 
clump  of  pandanus  palms 
we  followed  easily,  every 
man  hand  on  trigger  and 
alert.  'I'hen  came  a  denser 
clump,  and  the  blood  gouts 
were  brighter  in  colour. 
Suddenly  the  tracker  stiff- 
ened up  and,  pointing, 
cried,  "  Yowi,  boss,  there  1 " 
Those  were  his  last  words. 


"Curse  you  all  I  "  a  snarl  came  out  of  the 
bush,  and  as  the  revolver  crack  echoed  away 
the  tracker  sprang  in  the  air  and  fell  on  his  face 
dead.  In  the  hurry  of  the  moment  everyone 
broke  for  cover,  leaving  the  body  lying  there. 
Then  bang!  bang!  bang  I  the  shots  rang  out  into 
the  bush  as  each  man  fired  away  as  fast  as  he 
could  load.  Crack  :  came  the  answer  back,  the 
ball  passing  me  unpleasantly  close  with  a  vicious 
little  zipp.  Cluided  by  the  shot,  we  rained  the 
bullets  in.  Once  more  the  revolver  spoke,  harm- 
less ;  then  all  was  quiet,  and  dusk  settled  down. 

At  daybreak  next  morning  we  crept  to  the 
spot  where  the  native's  body  still  lay  stiff  and 
cold.  I  called  "  Flick  !  "  All  was  silent,  save 
when  somewhere  up  the  gully  a  magpie's  joyous 
warble  .saluted  the  rising  sun.  From  the  bush 
a  sneaking  dingo  bounded  away  at  our  approach, 
and  we  walked  cautiously  in.  The  leaves  were 
stripped  and  torn  by  bullets,  and  amongst  the 
shreds,  face  down  in  a  patch  of  dried  blood, 
with  fourteen  wounds  in  his  body  and  the 
empty  revolver  beneath  his  outspread  hand,  lay 
the  last  of  the  bushrangers,  while  overhead,  its 
white  eye  cocked  inquisitively  at  the  scene 
below,  an  early  crow  uttered  his  requiem. 


^&i*;>i,.. 


KACK    DOVN,    WITH    FOURTEEN    WOUNOS    IN    HIS    IIODV,    I.AV    THE    LAST  OK    THE    UUSHK  AN' .1- K>. 


Prisons  of  Many  Lands. 


By  Chas.  Cook,  F.R.G.S. 


case 


relates  some  out-of-the  way  experiences  in  connection  with  his  visits  to  foreign  gaols 


ANY  scenes  have  I  witnessed  and 
varied  have  been  the  experiences  I 
have  passed  through  since  I  first 
became  interested  in  the  criminal 
world. 

Some  thirty  years  ago  I  was  engaged  in 
finding  employment  for,  and  otherwise  helping, 
discharged  prisoners,  and  in  connection  with 
this  work  was  given  permission  by  the  Home 
Office  to  visit  all  our  convict  establishments  and 
also  many  of  the  local  gaols.  When  travelling 
abroad  I  have  made  a  point  of  seeing  something 
of  the  working  of  the  prison  systems  of  other 
lands,  where  I  have  discovered  many  things 
which  appalled  me,  besides  meeting  wrongs 
that  needed  righting  and  starving  prisoners  who 
needed  feeding. 

During  my  twenty  -  five  years'  wanderings 
through  foreign  prisons  I  have  been  obliged  to 
protest  against  the  filthy  condition  in  which  I 
found  the  dungeons  of  some  countries,  and 
against  the  awful  injustice  of  keeping  prisoners 
(as  in  one  country)  six  years  and  nine  months 
awaiting  trial !  For  countless  numbers  of  pri- 
soners the  authorities  made  absolutely  no  pro- 
vision in  the  way  of  food.  Last,  but  by  no 
means  least,  there  is  the  inhuman  "  penal  code  " 
of  Russia,  which  permits  of  men,  without  the 
shadow  or  semblance  of  a  trial,  being  kept  in  a 
fortress  cell  measuring  seven  feet  by  four  feet 
eight  inches  or  being  exiled  to  Siberia. 

(ienllcmen  known  to  me,  who  have  visited 
Ku.ssian  prisons,  have  sung  their  praises  and 
eulogi/cd  the  system  sky-liigh  ;  but,  unfor- 
tunately for  the  value  of  their  testimony,  it 
must  be  added  that  these  gentlemen  hob- 
nobbed with  the  chief  officials,  and  even,  in 
some  cases,  lunched  with  the  Czar  and  Czarina 
at  I'eterhof  Palace.  One  of  them,  after  his 
return  to  America,  unpacked  and  showed  me  a 
m;ignifi(<tU  gold  and  enamel  tea-service— a 
present  from  St.  Petersburg,  Under  these 
circumstances  criticism  is  apt  to  become 
praise. 

With  these  few  remarks  by  way  of  preface,  I 
will  proceed  to  relate  soiue  of  the  ex|)eriences 
I  have  met  with  among  those  in  "  durance  vile  " 
in   (lifTerent    parts   of  the  world,  whilst   visiting 

these  I'.Kil  liirds  III  till  ir  <  .icis 


"  Is  Mr.  Charles  Cook  at  home  ?  "  asked  a 
caller  at  my  house  one  day. 

"No,  he  is  at  the  seaside,"  was  the  reply. 

Within  a  few  hours,  however,  an  elderly  lady 
had  found  me  out  and  had  told  me  her  reason 
for  travelling  over  five  hundred  miles  to  see  me. 

"  You  see,"  she  said,  "  I  am  interested  in  a 
young  man  who  is  incarcerated  in  a  French 
convict  prison,  and,  as  I  am  aware  you  have 
visited  many  of  the  prisons  of  that  country,  I 
think  you  may  be  able  to  help  me  in  getting 
him  released.  I  am  indebted  to  him  for  kind- 
ness done  to  one  who  is  dear  to  me,  and,  as  I 
feel  he  has  been  unjustly  sentenced,  your 
influence  may  be  of  use  to  him.  He  was 
arrested  at  an  hotel  in  Paris  while  in  company 
with  a  friend,  and  charged  with  the  unlawful 
possession  of  property  belonging  to  a  certain 
lady  of  title;  and  as  a  number  of  Englishmen 
had  lately  been  arrested  who  belonged  to  a 
'  long  firm,'  the  judges  who  tried  him,  thinking 
he  was  probably  in  league  with  them,  sentenced 
him  to  three  years  in  a  convict  prison." 

I  listened  attentively  as  the  good  soul  warmed 
to  her  subject.  She  assured  me  the  young  man 
was  not  guilty.  His  friend  might  possibly  be 
the  thief,  but  he  himself  was  quite  unaware  that 
the  property  belonged  to  anyone  save  the  friend 
he  was  with  at  the  hotel. 

It  seemed  a  hard  sentence,  if  the  facts  were 
as  stated,  and  as  my  petitioner  gave  me  proofs 
of  her  sincerity,  and  mentioned  many  well- 
known  ministers  who  knew  of  her  own  mission 
work,  I  promised  her  I  would  write  to  the 
French  (Government  on  behalf  of  the  prisoner. 

True  to  my  word  I  wrote,  and  was  permitted 
to  write  to  and  afterwards  visit  the  young  man, 
who  was  confined  in  Loos  Prison,  near  Lille. 

I  found  he  bore  an  excellent  character,  had 
served  about  half  his  sentence,  was  in  high 
favour  with  the  governor,  and  had,  like  Joseph, 
been  put  in  authority  over  other  prisoners. 

In  the  same  prison  were  several  important 
English  criminals  who  had  been  concerned  in 
some  very  big  diamond  robberies  in  Paris. 
These  men  my  young  IViend  (if  I  may  so  call 
him)  was  daily  brouglil  into  contact  with.  As 
will  [jresently  transpire,  these  men  were  to  play 
an  im[)ortant  part  in  his  career. 


PRISONS    OF    MANY    LANDS. 


273 


After  a  time  I  returned  to  London.  A  few 
weeks  later  there  came  a  peremptory  wire  from 

tlie  lady:    "(lo  to  Loos  Prison.     B is  in 

danger.'  Being  very  busy,  I  rejjlied :  "  Im- 
possible to  leave  England."  But  the  following 
day  a  .second  telegram  came,  still  more  urgent 
in  tone  :  "  Imperative,  go  immediately."  On 
the  Saturday  1  received  a  third,  from  France : 
"  Come  at  once." 

Thinking  1  might  be  able  to  get  back  in  time 
for  my  Sunday  preaching  work,  I  caught  the 
morning  mail  train,  crossed  the  Channel  in  a 
storm  that  left  most  of  the  passengers  prostrate, 
passed  through  Lille  and  on   to   Loos,  saw  the 

prisoner  B and  had  some  conversation  with 

liim.  Then  I  had  a  long  interview  with  the 
governor,  took  the  train  back  to  Calais,  and 
arrived  at  Charing  Cross  after  another  terrible 
crossing,  having  been  away  from  London  less 
than  twenty-four  hours.  I  preached  three  tmies 
that  same  Sunday,  went  home  to  bed,  and  slept 
the  sleep  of  the  just. 

A  few  weeks  passed 
away  without  incident. 
Then  one  day,  had  the 
reader  been  at  the  rail- 
way station  at  Lille,  he 
might  have  noticed  two 
well  -  dressed  gentlemen 
closely  observing  all  the 
arrivals  from  Calais. 
Presently  two  unmistak- 
able Englishmen  de- 
scended from  the  train, 
hailed  a  cab,  and  drove 
to  an  hotel,  followed 
closely  in  a  carriage  by 
the  two  watchers. 

The  two  Englishmen 
engaged  a  bedroom  and 
the  others  did  the  same, 
being  particularly  careful 
to  secure  the  apartment 
ne.xt  to  the  one  taken  by 
the  Englishmen. 

The  following  morning 
the  two  detectives — for 
such  the  watchers  were  — 
arose  somewhat  early, 
but  their  ([uarry  had 
flown,  or,  rather,  been 
driven  rapidly  off  in  a 
carriage.  Here  I  must 
leave  them  and  describe 
another  chapter  in  this 
strange  story. 

Let  us  go  back  to  the 
Loos  Prison,  a  little  later 
in  the  same  day.      Every 

Vol.  xi.-35. 


morning  it  was  customary  for  a  pair-horse  waggon 
to  drive  into  the  prison  yard  and  take  away 
two  very  large  hampers  full  of  boots,  which  had 
been  made  by  the  convicts,  and  which  were 
dispatched  daily  from  the  gaol  consigned  to  a 
neighbouring  tradesman. 

As  the  clock  of  the  prison  was  striking  ten 
one  bright  morning  the  vehicle  left  the  prison 
as  usual.  ^\  hen  about  half  a  mile  from  its 
starting-{)lace  it  was  abruptly  stopped  by  two 
men,  who  appeared  to  be  labourers.  The  two 
detectives  I  have  previously  mentioned  also 
appeared,  and  getting  into  the  \a.n  cut  the 
strings  of  the  hampers.  These  should,  of 
course,  have  been  filled  with  boots,  but  on  this 
occasion  they  were  found  to  contain  two  prisoners 
who  had  attempted  to  escape  in  this  unique 
fashion. 

The  crestfallen  convicts  were  immediately 
handcuffed  by  the  "labourers,"  one  of  whom 
guarded   the    prisoners   while  his   comrade   was 


THE    HAMI'KKS    WPKp    I-OUNP   Tu   CUNIAIS     run    I'KISONPRS. 


2  74 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


busy  in  packing  the  two  detectives  into  the  same 
hampers  which  had  contained  the  convicts— 
whose  surprise  at  this  manceuvre  was  intense. 

The  waggon,  having  completed  its  change  of 
freight,  once  more  pursued  the  even  tenor  of 
its  way  ;  whilst  the  two  "  labourers "  con- 
ducted the  chagrined  prisoners  back  once  more 
to  the  safe  custody  of  the  gaol. 

Between  Loos  and  Lille  there  is  a  lonely 
avenue  of  trees,  and  when  the  waggon  had 
entered  this  somewhat  dark  lane,  where  the 
trees  almost  meet  overhead,  the  driver  was  again 
startled  by  seeing  two  more  men  jump  through 
the  hedge.  Whilst  one  stopped  the  horses  the 
other  jumped  into  the  van,  and  cutting  the 
strings  of  the  hampers  cried,  excitedly,  "  You 
are  saved  !  You  are  saved  !  "  To  his  horror 
and  disgust,  however,  instead  of  his  friends  the 
convicts  there  stepped  out  the  two  detectives, 
who  promptly  seized  both  men. 

"Although  we  lost  you  this  morning,"  said 
the  officials,  "  we  knew  where  we  should  find 
you.  If  you  will  be  good  enough  to  come  with 
us  to  the  prison,  you  may  be  able  to  see  your 
countrymen  whom  you  expected  to  find  in  the 
baskets." 

The  solution  of  this  curious  comedy  of  errors  is 
simple.     The  English  prisoners  referred  to  earlier 


rilHV   TIIKN    TMKlArl      II.    Ill       mm 


in  my  story  were  undergoing  lengthy  sentences. 
By  certain  channels  they  were  in  correspon- 
dence with  friends  in  England,  and  were  expect- 
ing soon  to  escape.     By  reason  of  my  young 

friend  B being  made  gatekeeper,  however, 

all  their  plans  were  frustrated,  as  he  had  the 
examining  of  everything  that  passed  out. 

At  first  they  attempted  to  bribe  him,  but 
without  success.  They  then  threatened  his  life, 
telling  him  several  of  the  warders  were  in  their 
pay,  and  that  they  meant  to  escape  even  though 
it  might  mean  murdering  him. 

It  was  at  this  time  I  was  summoned  from 
England  and  tendered  my  advice.       When  next 

B was  approached  by  the  conspirators  they 

offered  him  eight  hundred  pounds  if  he  would 
pass  the  boot-baskets  out  without  examining 
them,  and  this  offer  he  pretended  to  accept. 
The  convicts  actually  handed  to  him  the  follow- 
ing morning  half  the  stipulated  amount  in 
English  bank-notes. 

The  morning  of  the  escape  came,  when  both 
parties  fulfilled  their  several  parts  of  the  con- 
tract, with  the  curious  results  I  have  shown. 
My  readers  will  readily  fill  in  the  several  details. 

B ,  of  course,  had  unfolded  the  scheme 

to  the  governor,  who  had  communicated  with 

the  detective  force  in   Paris.      B must  not 

be  blamed  for  the  seeming  treachery  of  his 
action,  for  his  compliance  with  the  convicts' 
schemes  was  literally  a  question  of  life  or  death. 
As  a  matter  of  fact,  it  was  necessary  to  remove 
him  to  Lille  Prison  directly  afterwards. 

The  elderly  lady  now  suggested  to  me  that 
this  would  be  a  good  time  to  write  to  Paris  and 

petition  for  B 's   release.       I    confess    that 

more  than  once  I  marvelled  at  the  great 

interest  she  took  in  the  prisoner.     "  She 

was  sure,"  she  said,  "  that  if  I  could  get 

liin  employment  in  England  the  French 

(iovernment   would  set  him  at  liberty," 

and  1    blamed    myself    as    uncharitable 

when  she  added,   "  I  would  adopt 

him  as  my  son."     For  a  suspicion 

had  crossed  my  mind  some  weeks 

previously  when  she  asked   me   if 

I   "would   take  a  little   note  into 

the    gaol,"    which,    of    course,    I 

refused  to  do. 

A  few  weeks  later  Miss  A 

(the  elderly  lady)  and  Mr.  B 

arrived  in  I-viigland.  The  French 
authorities  had  answered  my 
petition  by  discliarging  the 
prisoner.  I  wrote  a  letter  thank- 
ing the  Minister  of  the  Interior 
for  his   kindness,    and    said   that 

B should  be  "  carefully  looked 

after."    He  was,  with  a  vengeance, 


PRISONS    OF    MANY     LANDS. 


'75 


and  without  my  aid  I     He  was  soon  doing  well 

as  a  shippinn  clerk,  his  lint^uistic  abilities  making 
him  very  useful  to  a  certain  firm  in  (.ilasgow. 

Six  months  passed  away  without  my  hearing 
anything  of  the  old  lady  or  the  young  gentleman. 
I'hen  1  heard  from  both  of  them — the  tidings 
taking  the  form  of  a  small  piece  of  pasteboard, 
elegantly    printed    in     silver,    announcing    the 

wedding   of  Miss   A and    Mr.    B !     I 

was  completely  staggered.  Had  1  been  utilized 
to  get  a  lover  out  of  prison  ?  Or  had  the 
motherly  feeling  ripened  into  a  warmer  affection 
when  the  gaol-bird  had  assumed  a  more 
becoming  plumage  ? 

"And  so  the  story  ends?"  the  reader  may 
in(iuire.     "  I  suppose  they 
lived    happily   ever    after- 
wards ?  "     Did  they  ! 

The  honeymoon  and  a 
few  more  weeks  passed 
away,  and  then  I  received 

a  letter  from  Miss  A , 

now     Mrs.     B .       I 

a[)pend  one  question  it 
contained  :  — 

"  Could  Mr.  Cook,  tell 

lier  if  Mr.  B had  ever 

been  in  any  other  prison 
abroad  or  in  any  English 
prison  ?  " 

It  is  the  unexpected 
which  always  happens. 
My  answer  was  very 
guarded : — 

"All  that  I  know  of 
the  person  mentioned  I 
know  through  you.  You 
must  know  far  more  of 
him  than  I  do." 

A  week  or  so  elapsed 
and  then  I  received  an- 
other communication, 
this  time  from  him  —  a 
wire  :  "  Meet  me  at 
Luston    Hotel,  ten  p.m." 

I  did  so,  and  heard  his  side  of  the  matter.  They 
liad  parted,  it  appeared;  could  not  possibly 
agree.  He  was  doing  very  well  in  a  large  firm 
and  had  a  good  position,  but  feared  he  would 
lose  it  through  her. 

I  hardly  dared  to  offer  advice.  My  sympathy 
.nid  judgment  leaned  towards  the  young  man. 
1  le  had  been  sincere  and  transparent  all  through, 
and  my  faith  in  him  remains  unshaken  to  this  day. 

Concerning  the  lady,  I  felt  she  had  not  fully 
confided  in  me,  and  had,  more  or  less,  deceived 

me  throughout.      Since   wishing  B "Good 

night "  at  Euston  some  years  ago,  however,  I 
have  never  seen  or  heard  of  either  of  them  since. 


THIi  AUTHOR,    MK.    CHAS.  COOK,   l-.K.G.S.,  WHO  HAS  \  IM  I  b  I) 
THK    I'Rl.SONS   OF    ALMOST   EVERY  COUNTRY   IN    THE  WORLD. 

from  a  P/ioto. 


If  this  little  story  has  a  touch  of  comedy 
about  It,  the  following  is  tremendously  tragic. 

On  reaching  Morocco,  with  the  intention  of 
visiting  the  penal  establishments  there,  our 
Ambassador  told  me  that  "  The  prisons  of 
Morocco  are  hopeless  and  heartbreaking  ;  the 
Sultan  once  said  to  me,  '  It  is  cheaper  for  me 
to  let  my  prisoners  die  of  starvation  than  pay 
the  butcher's  bill  to  have  them  killed  ! '  " 

You  constantly  meet  with  people  in  the  towns 
of  Morocco  without  feet,  crawling  miserably 
along  the  ground,  and  others  without  hands  ; 
these  limbs  have  been  lojjped  off  as  a  punish- 
ment for  theft.  In  some  cases  the  palm  of  the 
hand   is  gashed  in  several  places,  and  the  hand 

filled  with  salt  and  closed, 
a  skin  being  bound 
tightly  over  the  whole, 
till  the  hand  is  perman- 
ently suff  and  useless. 
Lime  is  sometimes  used 
instead  of  salt,  and  the 
hand  di[)ped  in  water, 
whilst  the  arms  are  so 
fettered  that  the  sufferer 
cannot  touch  it. 

There  are  two  prisons 
at  Tangier,  and  once 
inside  them  it  was  only 
with  difKiculty  that  we 
could  distinguish  the 
prisoners  in  the  dark 
dungeons.  In  many 
cases  the  poor  wretches 
were  chained  to  the  wall, 
and  they  were  well-nigh 
star\ing  ! 

Thanks  to  the  kindness 
of  the  passengers  on 
board  our  steamer,  I  was 
enabled  to  satisfy  the 
hunger  of  all  the  inmates 
in  both  prisons  ;  but 
when  I  had  done  so 
there  was  not  another 
loaf  to  be  bought  in  all  the  city. 

One  prisoner's  sad  case  was  brought  under 
my  notice,  and,  after  a  good  deal  of  palavering, 
I  was  enabled  to  pay  his  debts  and  thus  redeem 
him. 

There  are  no  such  things  as  roads  or  wheeled 
vehicles  in  this  strange  land,  and  travelling  into 
the  interior  means  "  roughing  it."  The  farther 
one  goes  south  the  more  awful  are  the  scenes 
witnessed  in  the  prisons. 

At  one  city  we  visited  the  poor  prisoners 
were  ravenous.  In  some  cases  the  poor, 
starving  captives  were  so  bare  of  clothing  that 
they  literally  wore  only  the  massive  chains  and 


276 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


TIIK    HXtR    WKKICHES   WKKK   CHAINKD   TO    HIE    WALL,    AM)    WKKE    WliLL-NICiH    STARVING. 


who  guard  him  for  the 
hire  of  the  dungeon  in 
which  he  is  incarcerated 
and  for  the  chains  that 
hound  him  ! 

I  am   thankful  to  be 
able  to  state  that 
there  is  at  least 
some  little  liope 
of  prison  reform 
in  Morocco.  The 
young  Sultan  has 
been  approac-hed 
on    the    subject, 
and    he    appears 
to   be  willing  to 
do  something, 
though  this  may 
set  some  of  the 
more  fanatical  of 
his      followers 
against    him      if 
they  deem  he  is 
yielding     to 
European     in- 
fluence.    I  hope 
to    return    to 
Morocco  almost 
directly  to  see  if 
anything  can  be 
done    for    those 
who  languish   in 
its  dungeons. 


iron  collars  which  fastened  them  to  the  slimy 
walls.  In  many  instances  men  had  been  im- 
prisoned for  some  trifling  offence  by  a  governor 
who  had  travelled  away  and  forgotten  all  about 
the  pris((ners,  who  remain  for  years  until  death 
mercifully  releases  them. 

One  of  these  men  had  been  chained  in  a 
dungeon  for  si.x  years,  (jnite  unable  to  get  free, 
whilst  two  companions  in  misery  had  died  by 
liis  side,  possi!)ly  poisoned  by  the  foul  air. 

Id  many  cases  like  these  the  prisoners  have 
been  entirely  forgotten.  No  list  of  names  is 
kept  and  n(i  accusations  are  registered.  For 
these  unfortunates  there  is  no  h()|)e  of  a  trial  or 
of  a  defirute  sentence — to  live  and  die  in  these 
noisi;nie  vaults  is  all  they  can  hope  for, 
separated  for  ever  as  ihey  are  from  the  outer 
world.  To  be  able  to  carry  to  these  p(X)r 
creaturt'S  any  ray  of  hope  "  to  give  light  to 
them  that  sit  in  darkness  and  in  the  shadow  of 
death  "     is  work  the  angels  might  envy. 

The  awful  irony  of  the  whole  business  in 
tlu-se  "habitations  of  cruelty"  in  the  dark 
|)laces  of  the  earth  is  that  when  you  are  able  to 
release  a  poor  wretch  you  must  needs  first 
pay  the  soldiers  who  arrested  ami    the  warders 


I  had  preached  in  the  Tombs  Prison,  New 
York,  had  heard  the  prisoners  applaud  the  lady 
soloist,  had  visited  the  "murderers'  row  "  a 
corridor  where  only  those  charged  with  homi- 
cide were  domiciled  and  had  been  told  by 
prison  officials  that  if  I  was  in  i)rison  they  could 
get  me  out  if  I  had  money,  and  tliat  if  I  had 
enough  they  could  even  get  me  off  the  gallows  ! 
r>ut  i  was  hardly  i)repared  for  what  I  was  to  see 
on  the  following  Sunday,  when  I  was  due  at  the 
great  Sing  Sing  Convict  Prison  on  the  banks  of 
the   Hudson. 

Some  thirteen  hundred  men  were  facing  me 
on  that  Sunday  morning  ;  at  least  two  bankers 
were  in  my  congregation,  besides  others  whose 
friends  in  the  outside  world  were  known,  if  not 
as  millionaires,  at  least  as  men  who  could  figure 
in  a  "  trust  "  or  a  "combine." 

Little  did  I  think  that  some  of  those  gaol- 
liids  were  even  then  growing  their  feathers,  so  to 
speak,  and  preening  tlieir  plumage,  with  the  ho[)es 
of  a  speedy  flight  from  that  frowning  fortress 
overlooking  the  Hudson  Rivrr. 

A  splendid  band  and  a  trained  choir  led  the 
singing,  and    when    I    had    nnished    th(^   sermon 


PRISONS    f)F     MANY     LANDS. 


277 


there  was  applause,  and  a 
rcipiest  tliat  I  wuiilil  attain 
occupy  the  pulpit  on  some 
future  occasion.  lUit  my 
real  surprise  began  when 
I  visited  tlie  prisoners  in 
their  cells. 

"I'he  first  man  I  found 
lying  in  bed,  smoking 
his  [)ipe  and  reading  his 
daily  paper — Sunday  edi- 
tion. The  second  man  I 
saw  was  making  "after- 
noon tea."  He  had  all 
the  usual  requirements  in 
his  cell,  though  this,  I 
learned,  was  against  the 
regulations.  The  third 
prisoner  was  playing  with 
a  diamond,  of  all  things 
in  the  world,  and  asked 
me  if  I  would  value  it 
for  him  ! 

'I  "he  fourth  man  was 
passing  a  note  to  the  con- 
vict in  the  next  cell  as  I 
aj)proached  the  door,  and, 
ha\  ing  dropped  the  length 
of  wire  he  was  using  to 
convey  the  message,  asked 
the  chaplain,  who  accom- 
panied me,  to  be  good 
enough  to  pick  it  up  for  him  ! 
had  seen  all  I  wished  of  Sing  Sing  Prison  and 
quietly  left. 

A  week  or  so  later  a  mysterious,  hut  success- 
ful, escape  was  made  from  this  very  prison  by 
two  well-known  and  daring  prisoners,  who  had, 
in  the  darkness  of  early  morn,  broken  out  and 
scaled  the  walls  before  the  alarm  was  given. 

As  the  warders  hurried  to  the  river's  edge 
they  could  just  see  a  boat  containing  the  two 
prisoners  in  nnd-stream.  There  was  no  other 
boat  in  which  they  could  follow,  and  in  the 
hope  of  having  them  caught  on  the  other  side 
they  shouted  with  all  their  might.  Whether 
this  alarmed  or  frightened  the  runaways  the 
officers  never  knew,  but  a  piercing  shriek  rang 
out,  and  the  ofificers  saw  the  boat  overturn  and 
the  men  sink  in  the  water. 

The  next  day,  some  miles  below,  the  caps  of 
the  two  prisoners  were  picked  up  at  the  edge  of 
the  river. 

Three  weeks  later  two  bodies  in  convict  garb 
—  their  faces  quite  unrecognisable  through 
having  been  so  long  in  the  water — were  dis- 
covered, and  the  story  of  the  two  prisoners'  end 
was  told  in  Sing  Sing  as  a  warning  to  other 
convicts. 


THE   OFKICEUS   SAW    THE    BOAT   OVERTl'KN'. 


By  this  time  I 


Whilst  travelling  ■  down  in  the  "  prisoners' 
boat  "  to  Plackwell's  Island  from  New  York  I 
got  into  conversation  with  two  detectives  and 
expressed  my  surprise  at  the  recent  escape  and 
the  sad  end  of  the  men. 

"  I  guess  that  story  is  not  ended  yet,"  said 
one'of  the  police.  "  I'm  not  supposed  to  know 
what  don't  concern  me,  but  don't  you  just  think 
that  those  bodies  belonged  to  the  two  murderers 
that  escaped." 

Shall  I  be  "telling  tales  out  of  school"  if  I 
say  I  now  know  that  the  upsetting  of  the  boat 
was  a  ruse,  and  that,  alter  diving,  the  convicts 
swam  ashore  on  the  farther  side  of  the  river  ? 
A\'illing  hands  helped  them  to  change  their 
clothing,  which  was  speedily  put  upon  two 
cor[)ses  si)ecially  procured  from  a  New  York 
hospital  (money  can  do  nearly  everything  in 
America),  and  these  were  sunk  in  the  river 
lower  down,  and  found  when  required  some 
three  weeks  later,  when,  of  course,  the  "  hue 
and  cry  "  ceased. 

\\'hilst  visiting  Finland  and  her  prisons  I  was 
introduced  by  the  Baroness  Wrede  to  a  famous 
criminal  called  Ilnrpoja,  known  as  "The  '["error 
of  Finland, "  who  was  umler  sentence  of  death. 


278 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


Sentenced  to  Siberia  for  many  years,  he  had 
escaped  and  returned  to  Finland,  where  a 
number  of  murders  were  soon  committed,  and 
at  last  the  murderer  -  -no  other  than  Harpoja  — 
was  captured.  The  whole  of  Finland  rejoiced 
when  he  was  confined  in  the  strong  prison  of 
Kakolo  at  Abo. 

The  happiness  was  short-lived,  however,  for 
one  morning  his  cell  was  found  to  be  empty  — 
the  bird  was  flown  !  But  such  is  the  network 
of  the  Russian  criminal  system,  and  the  daily 
espionage  to  which  all  Russian  subjects  are 
exposed,  that  a 


Sheppard,  this  marvellous  "prison-breaker," 
was  at  liberty  again  in  less  than  a  fortnight. 

He  was  again  recaptured,  and  yet,  despite 
still  heavier  irons  and  stronger  chains,  for  the 
fourth  time  he  escaped  from  this  grmi  granite 
fortress  and,  freeing  himself  from  his  fetters, 
made  good  his  escape. 

I  have  no  time  to  tell  of  the  influence  the 
Baroness  Wrede  accpiired  over  him,  and  of  the 
kindness  with  which  she  won   t^his  criminal  to 


"ill      WAS    (  ||AIM'I>     If)     I  UK    WM.l     IX'     THK    COl'RT." 


hardly  cscaiH,-  arrest ;  and  soon  Harpoja  was 
retaken,  conveyed  back  to  Kakolo,  more  heavily 
ironed,  and  put  m  a  stronger  cell.  Marvellous 
to  state,  in  less  than  a  fortnight  the  gaol-bird 
had  again  flown  I 

The  secret  pDlire,  being  |)Ut  upcjn  tlieir 
mettle,  left  no  stone  unturned,  no  city  un 
searched,  and  no  means  untried  to  recapture 
him  ;  and  eventually  Harprna,  whose  name  had 
become  a  real  terror  to  law-abiding  peo[)le,  was 
again  under  lock  and  key.  It  seemed  useless 
to  detain  him,  however,   for  this  modern  Jack 


respect  the  laws,  but  such  was  the  fear  of  the 
judge  who  finally  tried  him,  after  Harpoja  was 
again  recaptured,  that  he  al)S()lulely  refused  to 
have  him  appear  in  court  unless  he  was  chained 
to  the  wall  of  the  court  and  the  liaroness  would 
promise  to  sit  between  Harpoja  and  the  judge. 
When  I  last  saw  him  he  was  more  heavily 
ironed  than  any  man  I  have  ever  seen  in  my 
life  at  home  or  abroad.  Harpoja's  many  escapes 
prove  that  the  prison  has  never  been  built  which 
can  hold  a  desperate,  cunning,  and  resourceful 
prisoner,  determined  at  all  costs  to  free  himself. 


The    Solving    of    a    riystery. 


By  Octavius  Bartlett. 

A  tea-planter  friend  at   Darjeeling  complained  to  the  author  that  night  after  night  his  fowls  mysteriously 

disappeared,  although  kept  under  lock  and  key  in  a  strong  house.     Mr.  Bartlett  undertook  to  discover  the 

thief.     His  investigations  culminated  in  a  most  extraordinary  adventure,  which  is  here  narrated. 


\\'AS  Stationed  in  the  Darjeeling 
district  of  India  for  .some  years,  and 
during  that  time  made  the  ac(iuaint- 
ance  of  several  of  the  tea-planters, 
with  whom  I  used  to  go  shooting 
round  their  estates.  One  day  while  passing 
through  (ihoom,  a  small  village  near  Darjeeling, 
I  met  one  of  my  tea-planter  friends  who  had  a 
small  estate  on  the  other  side  of  Ghoom,  about 
three  miles  away.  He  asked  me  to  come  and 
have  tiffin  with  him,  and  as  I  had  plenty  of  time 
on  my  hands  I  went.  On  the  way  to  his  place 
he  told  me  that  during  the  last  two  or  three 
weeks  a  number  of  his  fowls  had  mysteriously 
disappeared  and  he  could  not  make  out  who  or 
what  took  them.  When  we  arrived  at  the 
bungalow,  as  tiffin  would  not  be  ready  for  half 
an  hour,  he  took  me  and  showed  me  over 
his  fowl-house.  I  had  a  good  look  round, 
and  then  told  him  I  did  not  see  how  any 
prowling  animal  could  take  the  fowls,  as  it 
was  a  strong  house,  built  of  stone  and  mud, 
and  with  a  strong  wooden  roof.  It  must,  I 
said,  be  some  of  the  native  servants.  But  this 
the  planter  refused  to  believe.  "  It  cannot  be 
they,"  he  said,  "  for  the  door  is  always  kept 
locked  and  no  one  goes  in  but  myself.  Every 
night  when  the  birds  have  gone  to  roost  I  go  in 
and  count  them  as  they  sit  on  the  perches,  and 
yet  during  the  last  week,  every  other  day  or  so, 
when  1  let  them  out  in  the  morning  I  find  one 
of  them  missing.  It  can't  be  rats,  because  they 
are  all  big  fowls,  much  too  big  for  a  rat  to 
tackle,  and  I  keep  my  chickens  and  small  fowls 
in  another  house  made  of  corrugated  iron.  It's 
a  most  mysterious  business  !  " 

Continuing  my  inspection  of  the  place  I  saw 
that  on  the  outside  of  the  fowl-house  there  was 


a  kind  of  ladder  made  of  bamboo,  leading  up  to 
the  roof,  where  there  was  a  small  hole  for  the 
fowls  to  go  in  and  out  during  the  daytime. 
This,  however,  was  too  small  to  allow  any 
animal,  such  as  a  fox  or  jackal,  to  get  in,  even 
if  they  could  climb  up  the  ladder,  which  rose 
about  fifteen  feet  from  the  ground.  Close  to 
the  fowl-house  and  i)artly  overhanging  it  was  a 
big  Ixmyan  tree,  some  of  the  branches  of  which 
hung  down  quite  close  to  the  roof  But  no 
animal  could  get  up  the  tree  and  into  the 
house  from  the  roof,  as  it  slanted  too  much, 
and,  moreover,  the  hole  where  the  fowls  went 
in  was  under  the  wooden  eaves.  I  therefore 
dismissed  the  idea  of  a  four-footed  thief,  and 
after  a  final  look,  both  inside  and  out,  we 
went  in  to  tiffin.  After  the  meal  I  searched  all 
round  to  see  if  I  could  find  any  feathers  or 
other  traces  of  the  missing  fowls  which  would 
give  me  a  clue  to  their  fate,  but  I  could  find 
absolutely  nothing. 

Three  or  four  days  later  I  called  on  my 
planter  friend  again.  He  told  me  he  had  lost 
two  more  fowls  since  my  last  visit,  and  although 
he  sat  up  and  watched  all  night  he  had  not  seen 
anything  come  to  take  them  away.  The  thing 
was  most  puzzling  and  irritating.  I  told  him 
that  if  he  liked  I  would  sit  up  that  night  and  see 
if  I  could  catch  the  thief,  as  I  had  a  suspicion 
one  of  his  servants  must  have  a  key  which  fitted 
the  lock  on  the  fi)wlhouse  door,  and  knew 
e.xactly  the  best  time  to  come  and  take  the 
birds.  I  therefore  instructed  my  friend  not  to  let 
any  of  his  servants  know  of  the  arrangement. 
Dinner  over,  I  got  up  and  said  good-night 
to  my  friend,  and  apparently  set  off  for  home. 
After  going  some  little  distance,  however,  I 
stopped  and  turned  off  the  small  path  into  the 


!8o 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


jungle,  intending  to  see  if  any  of  the  servants 
had  been  following  me.  Waiting  for  half 
an  hour,  and  seeing  and  hearing  no  one,  I  very 
quietly  retraced  my  steps,  keeping  as  much  out 
of  the  moonlight  as  possible.  Going  round  the 
back  of  my  friend's  bungalow  I  made  my  way 


daylight,  when  I  heard  the  servants  beginning 
to  move  about,  and  then  I  went  to  the  bungalow 
and  saw  my  friend  having  a  cup  of  coffee.  He 
greeted  me  heartily  and  inquired  if  I  had  seen 
or  heard  anything.  I  related  how  I  had  passed 
the  nisht,  and  a^sured  him  that  on  this  occasion 


"lighting    my   I'IPE,    I    SAT   WATCHING." 


into  a  small  shed,  which  stood  exactly  opi)osite 
the  fowl  house.  1  shut  the  door  and  opened 
the  little  wooden  window,  from  which  I  could 
sec  the  fowl  house  door  quite  plainly  in  the 
moorilight,  without  being  visible  myself.  I 
hoped  to  catch  the  thief  or  thieves  red-handed. 

I  made  myself  as  comfortable  as  I  could,  and 
then,  lighting  my  pipe,  sat  watching.  I  had  my 
gun  with  me,  one  barrel  loaded  with  very  small 
dust  shot,  which  I  used  for  small  birds,  and  the 
r)th(T  witli  a  shell.  The  dust  shot  was  intended 
for  the  thief  if  he  saw  me  and  tried  to  run 
away  before  I  got  to  the  fowl -house,  and  the 
other  barrel  for  any  large  animal  which  might 
come  prowling  about.  I'or  my  friend  had  t<jld 
mc  that  very  often  leopards,  cheetahs,  and 
bears  came  rounrl  the  bungalow  at  night  to  see 
if  they  fould  get  anything  for  supper. 

I  sat  at  my  post  all  through  the  night  and 
only  saw  some  jackals  and  a  couple  of  por- 
rupines,  although  once  I  fancied  I  heard  the 
fowls  making  a  noise  as  if  something  were 
disturbing  them.  Hut  as  I  could  see  the  door 
plainly  and  there  was  nothing  near  it,  I  dis- 
missed the  idea  as  an  idle  fancy.     I  waited  imtil 


at  least  he  would  be  sure  to  find  his  fowls  all 
right,  as  to  my  certain  knowledge  no  living 
creature  had  entered  the  door. 

After  I  had  had  a  cup  of  coffee  with  him  we 
went  over  to  the  fowl-house  and  he  unlocked 
the  door.  All  the  fowls  were  sitting  on  their 
perches,  and  as  they  came  out  to  be  fed  we 
counted  them.  To  my  amazement,  however, 
we  found  that  one  was  missing  !  The  night 
before  wc  had  counted  sixty-four,  and  now, 
although  we  both  went  over  them  two  or  three 
times,  we  could  only  make  sixty-three  ! 

I  felt  more  mystified  than  ever.  No  one  had 
been  near  the  door  all  night,  of  that  I  was 
certain,  so  that  the  bird  could  not  have  been 
taken  out  that  way.  How,  then,  had  it  vanished  ? 
We  went  into  the  fowl-house  and  searched  all 
round,  but  there  was  no  hole,  save  the  one  near 
the  roof,  big  enough  for  even  a  rat  to  get  in  at 
— and  a  rat  could  not  possibly  kill  and  carry  a 
Ijig  fowl  out  that  way,  as  he  would  have  had  to 
jump  up  about  three  feet  with  it  in  his  mouth. 
Wliatever  it  was,  however,  the  fact  remained 
that  another  fowl  had  disappeared— gone  with- 
out leaving  a  trace — making  eight  in  all   that 


11 1 1:    SOLVIXC.    OF    A     MVS'l'RRV. 


281 


had  been  taken  away.  I  felt  distinctly  annoyed 
at  the  result  of  my  vigil  so  far,  and  informed 
the  planter  that  I  would  sit  up  inside  the  fowl- 
house  itself  that  niyht  and  solve  the  mystery  at 
all  costs.  "  How  about  the  insects  ?  "  he  asked. 
"  I  don't  care  for  the  insects,"  said  I.  "  I'm 
not  going  to  be  beaten  like  this  ;  I  mean  to  find 
out  who  or  what  the  thief  is." 

As  I  did  not  now  think  that  any  of  the 
servants  were  concerned  in  these  mysterious 
thefts,  we  talked  about  the  matter  in  front  of 
the  "bearer" 
( house  -  servant), 
and  I  asked  him 
what  he  thought 
about  it.  But  he 
shook  his  head 
and,  looking  very 
frightened,  said, 
"ShitanlShitan!" 
(Devil  !  Devil!) 
"sahib."  "Yes," 
said  my  friend, 
laughing,  "  they 
all  say  that,  and, 
although  I  have 
offered  five  rupees 
to  any  one  of 
them  who  can 
find  out  the  thief, 
they  won't  ven- 
ture out  of  their 
huts  after  dark. 
So  we  must  try 
and  find  out  our- 
selves." 

That  night  we 
again  counted  the 
fowls  and  saw 
there  were  only 
sixty-three.  After 
late  dinner  we  sat 
in  the  veranda 
and  had  a  smoke 
and  chat  for  an 
hour,  and  then  I 
took  a  small 
bull's  -  eye  lain[) 
and    went  off    to 

the  fowl-house.  I  had  the  key,  and  after  unlock- 
ing the  door  went  in  and  shut  it  behind  me.  Turn- 
ing the  shade  of  the  bull's-eye  round  I  saw  that  all 
the  fowls  were  on  their  ])erches,  roosting  cjuietly 
enough.  I  counted  them  again  just  to  make  quite 
sure,  and  saw  they  were  all  right.  Then  I  took  a 
small  empty  box  and  put  it  against  the  wall  for 
a  seat.  After  turning  the  shade  of  the  lamp 
round,  so  as  to  show  no  light,  I  put  it  down 
beside  me  and,  holding  my  gun  across  my   lap, 

Vol.  xi.-36. 


HE  .SHOOK    HIS   HEAD,    LOOKING   VERV    KRIGHTENED." 


sat  waiting  for  the  mysterious  visitor.  The  hole 
where  the  fowls  went  in  and  out  was  opposite 
me,  at  the  other  end  of  the  fowl-house,  and  I 
could  just  see  it,  but  the  big  tree  outside  kept 
the  moonlight  off,  so  that  1  could  not  observe  it 
very  plainly.  Inside  it  was  pitch  dark.  The 
insects  did  not  trouble  me  much,  and  I  sat  on 
patiently  all  through  the  night  without  hearing 
or  seeing  anything.  \\'hen  daylight  arrived  I 
went  out  and  had  a  look  round,  and  then  pro- 
ceeded   to  the   bungalow  for  a  cup  of  coffee, 

telling  my  friend 
we  should  find 
the  fowls  all  right, 
as  I  had  had  no 
visitors,  ^^'e found 
on  counting  them 
that  they  were  all 
there — sixty-three 
— just  as  I  had 
counted  them 
overnight.  The 
planter  said  they 
did  not  disappear 
regularly  every 
night,  but  every 
second  or  third 
night  one  would 
go.  "  Very  well," 
I  said,  "  I  will  sit 
up  every  night  till 
I  find  out  what 
it  is  that  takes 
those  fowls,  even 
if  It  takes  me  a 
month." 

The  following 
evening,  there- 
fore, I  again  took 
u[)  my  post  in  the 
fowl  -  house.  I 
had  been  sitting 
watching  for 
about  an  hour 
when  I  fancied 
I  heard  some- 
thing moving  on 
the  roof,  and  sat 
up,  watching  the 
hole  in  front  of  me  intently.  As  the  wind  was 
blowing  a  little,  however,  I  thought  the  noise 
might  possibly  be  the  branches  of  the  tree 
rubbing  against  the  roof. 

What  little  light  came  through  the  opening 
kei)t  going  out  altogether  as  clouds  passed  over 
the  moon,  so  that  the  light  was  even  worse  than 
usual.  I  knew  that  the  fowls  would  make  a 
noise  if  anything  disturbed  them,  and  also  that 
none    of     them    could    be    molested     without 


!82 


252 


THE    WIDE    WORi.D    MAGAZINE. 


making  some  little  noise,  and  so  putting  me  on 
my  guard. 

I  was  just  looking  down  to  see  if  the  lamp 
was  burning  all  right  when  I  heard  the  fowls 
begin  to  move  about  as  if  something  was  dis- 
turbing them  on  their  perches.  Yes,  ther  was 
something  there,  sure  enough,  for  they  began  to 
get  uneasy  and  shift  about.  I  had  noticed 
when  I  came  in  that  they  had  left  the  perches 
under  the  hole  near  the  roof  free,  and  were  all 
roosting  as  far  away  from  it  as  possible,  as  if 
they  knew  the  direction  from  which  their  enemy 
came.  "So,  whatever  it  is,"  I  muttered,  "will 
have  to  come 
right  in  —  and 
I  shall  get  a 
shot  at  it  be- 
fore it  can  get 
out,  I  fancy." 

Ah  :  It  was 
at  them  now, 
for  I  could  hear 
them  shifting 
about  more 
and  more,  and 
presently  one 
came  fluttering 
down  to  the 
ground.  It  was 
time  to  acl^!  I 
reached  down 
and  picked  up 
my  lamp.  'I'urn- 
ing  the  shade  I 
threw  a  ray  of 
light  upwards, 
rising  to  my  feet 
at  the  same 
time  and  hold- 
ing my  gun  at 
full  cock  in  my 
right  hand. 

I  beheld  a 
most  extra- 
ordinary spec- 
tacle. A  little 
above  me,  the 
light  shining  on 
its  glittering 
body,  was  a 
h  u  g  e  fork 
snake  !  I  could 

not  sec  its  head,  but  throwing  my  gun  up  I  fncd 
lK)ih  JKirrels.  the  shell  and  the  small  shot,  right 
into  him,  fancying  at  such  a  close  range  it  would 
kill  him.  Hut  I  found  I  had  made  a  great 
mistake,  for  the  next  minute  I  was  seized  by  the 
arm  and  swung  irresistibly  round.  Then, 
mixed    up    with    fluttering,     srjuawking     fowls 


IIIUUWING    MY   CU.N    Ur    I    I- IKliL)    IWl  II    IIAKRELS. 


and  broken  wood,  dust,  and  dirt,  I  was 
battling  desperately  for  dear  life  to  keep 
out  of  the  coils  of  the  terrible  monster, 
who  had  seized  my  arm  in  his  mouth.  My  gun 
and  lamp  were  both  dashed  out  of  my  hands, 
and  we  fought  on  in  utter  darkness.  But  not  in 
silence.  For  as  we  daslied  hither  and  thither 
and  fell  about,  the  horrible  reptile  ever  striving 
to  encircle  me  with  his  awful  coils,  the  hens 
fluttered  and  squawked  wildly,  while  I  shouted 
and  yelled  at  the  top  of  my  voice  to  try  and 
make  my  friend  hear.  I  had  got  the  snake  by 
the   throat  with   my  right   hand,  while   he   had 

fixed  his  teeth 
firmly  in  my 
left  arm  ;  but, 
although  1 
knew  I  must 
have  wounded 
him  badly,  if  I 
could  not  keep 
out  of  his  coils 
until  help  came 
he  might  be 
able  to  crush 
me  to  death. 
Once  or  twice 
he  succeeded 
in  getting  one 
coil  of  his  huge 
body  round 
my  legs  and 
brought  me 
down  heavily 
as  he  lashed 
himself  about. 
P)Ut  so  far  I 
had  kept  his 
coils  off  my 
body.  How 
long  I  could  do 
so  was  a  ciues- 
tion,  lor  I  knew 
I  could  not 
stand  the  strain 
much  longer. 

The  snake 
had  just  got 
my  legs  in  an- 
other coil  and 
brought  me 
down  again, 
and  I  couKl  ftcl  him  lulling  me  over  and 
those  relentless  coils  getting  higher  up  my 
body,  prejjaratory  to  crushing  out  my  life, 
when  tlie  door  was  flung  ojjcn  aiul  I 
heard  my  friend  and  .some  natives  outside. 
I  summoned  up  all  my  strength  and  shouted, 
"  A  big  snake  has  got   me  !     A  knife,  (|uick  !  " 


Tin:   soiAixc.   oi-    a   mnstkrv 


2S3 


My  friend,  dropping  his  gun,  snatched  a  big 
knife  his  hearer  had  Im  kily  brought,  and  with 
great  presence  of  mind  knelt  on  me  and  liie 
snake,  and  cut  away  at  its  neck  behind  the  head 
till  he  liad  hacked  the  head  clean  off  Then, 
with  the  iielp  of  the  men,  he  unwound  the  great 
l)rute  from  me  anil  i)ulled  me  out  into  the  open, 
more  dead  than  alive. 

It    was    some    time    before   I   could    get    the 
numbness   out   of  my  legs  sufficiently  to  walk, 


house  door  open  in  order  that  the  fowls  might 
go  liack  again  if  they  liked. 

We  took  the  dead  snake  and  the  two  fowls 
with  us,  and  after  a  good  brushing  down  and  a 
stiff  peg  of  whisky  I  went  to  bed,  feeling  some- 
what exhausted  after  the  knocking  about  I  had 
received.  The  next  morning  I  was  stiff  and 
sore  and  covered  with  black-and-blue  bruises. 
Where  the  snake  had  seized  my  arm  in  his 
mouth  tliere  were  a  lot  of  little  punctures  like 


"  MY    FRIEND    KNEI.T   ON    ME   AND   THE   SNAKE   AND   CUT   AWAY    AT    ITS    NECK.  ' 


and  the  planter  and  his  men  had  also  received 
one  or  two  nasty  knocks  before  the  big  snake 
was  finally  vancjuished.  I  asked  my  friend  what 
made  them  so  long  coming  to  help  me.  "  From 
the  time  you  fired  the  shot  till  we  came  to  you," 
he  said,  "was  not  above  two  or  three  minutes." 

P>ut  it  seemed  hours  to  me. 

As  for  the  fowl-house,  it  was  an  absolute 
wreck.  All  the  big  bamboo  uprights  for  the 
perches  were  torn  down  and  the  perches  broken, 
and  on  the  floor  lay  two  dead  fowls,  while  th.e 
remainder  all  vanished  outside  directly  the  door 
was  o[)ened. 

After  we  had  found  my  gun,  which  was  not 
very  nuK  h  damaged,  and  the  lam[),  now  broken, 
we  went  back  to  the  bungalow,  leaving  the  fowl- 


j)in  pricks,  and  these  smarted  a  good  deal. 
Fortunately,  however,  rock  -  snakes  are  not 
poisonous  ;  their  power  lies  entirely  in  the 
strength  of  their  awful  coils. 

\Ve  measured  the  snake  and  found  it  was 
twelve  feet  three  and  a  half  inches  long.  But 
for  being  wounded  so  badly  with  my  shot  I  am 
afraid  he  would  have  done  for  me  long  before 
anyone  could  have  come  to  my  rescue.  He 
must  ha\e  entered  the  fowl-house  by  means  of 
the  small  hole  under  the  eaves,  gaining  access 
to  it  from  the  branches  of  the  banyan,  which 
touched  the  roof. 

We  had  solved  the  mystery,  but  I  am  not 
at  all  anxious  to  tackle  a  rock-snake  again, 
especially  under  similar  circumstances. 


The   "  rieistertrunk "   at   Rothenburg. 

Bv  W'altkr  Dexter. 

A  description  of  a  remarkable  play— two  years  older  than  the  famous  Passion  Play  of  Oberammergau 
—which  takes  place  every  year  on  Whit-Monday  at  the  ancient  city  of  Rothenburg,  in  Germany. 
The    olay   is    acted    by   the   townspeople,    and   commemorates    a   wonderful    feat    accomplished    by    one 

Burgomaster  Nusch,  who  gave  his  life  to  save  the  town. 


V  the  thousands  of  people  who  go 
to  see  the  Passion  Play  at  Ober- 
ammergau many  must  have  travelled 
through  the  charmingly  situated  and 
ancient  little  town  of  Rothenburg- 
on-the  Tauber,  about  eighty  miles  from  Ober- 
ammergau and  one  hundred  and  twenty  miles 
from  Munich. 

But  few  of  tiie  visitors,  however,  who  pass 
through  this  picturesque,  old-world  town  e/i  route 
for  the  most  realistic  play  ever  performed  are 
aware  that  in  its  old  Rathhaus  a  play,  every 
bit  as  realistic  and  remarkable  as  the  famous 
Passion  Play  and  in  origin  two  years  older,  is 
performed  once  a  year  on  Whit-Monday.  It  is, 
indeed,  surprising  that  the  "  Meistertrunk,"  for 


In  October,  163 1,  the  forces  under  Count 
Tilly,  conunander  of  the  Catholic  League  during 
the  first  part  of  the  Thirty  \'ears'  War,  and,  after 
the  retirement  of  Wallenstein  in  1630,  also 
commander  of  the  joint  Imperial  and  Catholic 
forces,  laid  siege  to  Rothenburg. 

(ireatly  incensed  at   the  stubborn    resistance 

.   offered  by  the  townspeople,  Count  Tilly  made  a 

vow  that,  when  at  length  the  town  should  fall, 

he  would  set  it  alight  m  three  places  and  put  all 

the  members  of  the  town  council  to  death. 

TJie  people  of  Rothenburg,  however,  deter- 
mined to  fight  to  the  bitter  end.  They  made  a 
most  gallant  stand  against  the  Emperor's  army, 
but  at  eventide  were  compelled  to  surrender, 
and  Tilly,  at  the  head  of  the  Holy  Army,  entered 


■  "  '"  in  fii  III  111  III  \\\  u\    m   \\\   gr 


0 


ii! LLL    "I     III     m     m     Ml      lit     11!     HI      lit     in      fl 


From  u\  TllK    KAIIIIIAUS   Of    liOrilENIlUKc;,    WllEKli    TiUi    I'l.AY    IS    1KKKU|;.MKD. 


\riu>to. 


such  is  tlie  play  called,  has  not  yet  become 
wf)rld- famous.  It  is  even  known  to  but  few 
(lermans,  and  they  are,  for  the  most  part, 
Havarian.s,  for  Rothenburg  is  situated  in  the 
kingdom  of  llavaria. 

Like  the  Passion  Play,  the  "  Meistertrunk  "  is 
enacted  by  the  villagers  ;  it  is  played  to  com- 
memorate the  act  of  one  who,  in  1631  (two 
years  before  the  great  [)lague  at  (oberammergau, 
which  gave  rise  to  the  Passion  Play),  by  the 
ichievement  of  a  wonderful  feat,  saved  the  town 
trom  the  ravages  of  the  enemy.  The  origin  of 
•he  play  is  essentially  historical,  and  the  story  is 
as  follows. 


the  city  gates  and  marched  to  the  Rathhaus 
(town  -  hall),  where  the  town  council  was 
sitting. 

Tilly's  anger  had  not  abated.  He  upbraided 
the  council  for  their  stern  resistance  to  their 
Emperor,  and  finished  by  making  known  his 
vow  to  put  all  the  council  to  death  because  of 
their  treason. 

It  was  a  particularly  hot  day,  and  the  council 
had  l)een  refreshing  themselves  with  delicious 
wine,  which  only  that  district  could  produce. 
Whether  they  offered  the  wine  to  Tilly,  or 
whetiier  he,  as  victor,  .seized  it  as  his  right,  is 
not  recorded ;  but  we  know  for  a  fact  that  Tilly 


MRISTERTRUNK"    AT    ROTHENBURG. 


285 


drank  of  the  wine  and  was  mightily  pleased 
vvith  it. 

The  wine  was  served  in  a  large  glass  bowl, 
which,  needless  to  say,  had  to  be  filled  again 
and  again  by  the  steward  of  the  council,  as  it 
passed  from  Tilly  to  his  officers  and  staff  and 
back  again  to  Tilly. 

The  more  he  tasted  of  the  delicious  beverage 
the  stronger  was  he  in  his  declarations  that  he 
had  never  before  drunk  anything  half  so  fine. 
I'^ventually  the  general  was  in  that  state  of  good 
humour  that  is  only  vouchsafed  to  those  who 
drink  deep  and  long  from  the  wine-bgwl.  See- 
ing that  now  was  the  time  when,  if  ever  his 
decision  was  to  be  altered,  one  might  plead  for 
mercy  and   be  granted   the  request,  the   burgo- 


another  in  amazement.  Not  one  of  them  dared 
think  that  the  other  would  volunteer  to  perform 
this  seemingly  impossible  feat,  for  the  bowl,  as 
they  knew  full  well,  contained  over  three  quarts 
of  wine  ! 

(Ireatly  to  the  amazement  of  the  council,  and 
to  the  still  greater  amazement  of  the  general 
himself,  the  burgomaster,  Nusch  by  name, 
stepped  forward  and  accepted  the  task  which 
had  been  set,  and  upon  which  the  fate  of  the 
council  rested. 

Knowing  that  the  attempt  to  thus  relieve  the 
council  and  the  town  would,  in  all  probability, 
result  in  his  death,  Nusch  took  an  affectionate 
farewell  of  his  wife  and  fellow-townsmen. 

Raising  the  bowl  to  his  lips  he  then  took   this 


master's  wife  came  forward,  and  flinging  herself 
on  her  knees  in  front  of  the  commander  begged 
for  the  life  of  her  husband  and  the  other 
members  of  the  council.    liut  Tilly  was  obdurate. 

However,  the  wine  was  surely,  if  slowly,  doing 
its  work  ;  at  length  Count  Tilly  relented  some- 
what and  offered  to  give  the  council  one 
chance  for  their  lives. 

He  filled  the  bowl  that  had  lately  passed 
from  mouth  to  mouth  with  the  rich,  sparkling 
wine,  and  announced  that  he  would  spare  the 
lives  of  all  the  members  of  the  council  and 
spare  the  town  if  one  of  them  could  drink  the 
contents  of  the  bowl  without  making  a  pause. 

The  members  of  the  council  looked  at  one 


"  Meistertrunk  ' 
—  the  longest 
drink  on  record. 

For  a  minute  and  a  (|uarter  he  drank,  and  the 
astonishment  of  everyone  was  exceedingly  great. 
At  length  Nusch  reached  out  the  bowl  to  Tilly. 
It  was  empty,  and  the  burgomaster  had  saved 
the  town  !  But  his  own  life  was  the  forfeit,  for 
hardly  had  he  shown  the  general  that  the  bowl 
was  empty  than  he  fell  to  the  ground— dead. 

Such  is  the  story  of  the  "  Meistertrunk  "  (the 
Master-drink),  in  remembrance  of  which  the 
people  of  Rothenburg  enact  the  play  annually 
on  Whit-Monday. 

A  visitor  to  the  little  town  of  Rothenburg  on 


286 


THE    WIDE    WORED    MAGAZINE. 


the  day  this  play  is  pre- 
sented would  be  led  to 
suppose  that  he  had  been 
transported  to  the  days  of 
the  seventeenth  century. 
.Not  only  do  the  buildings, 
several  of  which  are  a  thou- 
sand years  of  age,  lend 
colour  to  the  illusion,  but 
inside  the  walls  are  to  be 
seen  a  number  of  armed 
men  dressed  in  the  [)irtur- 
escjue  costume  of  that  day. 
These  represent  the  de- 
fenders of  the  gallant  city 
at  the  time  when  Tilly 
besieged  it. 

At    the     Rathhaus,    the 

irne    town  hall    in    which 

lie  incident  occurred,  the 

j)lay,  '•  Der  Mcistertrunk," 

is  performed  by  the  towns- 

|)eople. 

The  play  opens  with  the 
meeting  of  the  council  in 
'he  morning  before  the  fall 
'f  the  town.  All  signify 
their  determination  to  fight 
to  the  enrl.  The  next  scene 
is  the  evening,  when  Tilly 
has  marched  into  the  town. 
He  enters  the   council 


ntjlonm,],- 


\^\ 


COUNT    TIl.l.V. 

I'-row    t    I'ltoto. 


chamber,    upbraids 
them    for  their  resist- 
ance, and  makes  known  to 
them  his  decision   to  put 
them  all  to  death. 

Then  comes  the  drink- 
ing of  the  wine,  offered  to 
Tilly  by  the  steward  of  the 
council  and  contained  in  a 
large  glass  bowl,  the  iden- 
tical one  used  on  the 
memorable  occasion. 

Tilly  drinks,  prai.ses  the 
wine,  and  circulates  it 
amongst  his  staff.  Then 
appears  the  wife  of  the 
burgomaster. 

Her  touching  appeal  for 
her  husband's  life,  as  well 
as  for  the  lives  of  the  rest 
of  the   council,    is  almost 
invariably    well     rendered, 
and  theaudience  are  roused 
lo  a  high  pilch  of  emotion 
and  excitement.     At  first 
Tilly   refuses    to    go    back 
upon    his    word,    but    the 
burgomaster's   wife    still 
persists,  and  in  a  short 
lime  'J'illy  relents,  offer- 
ing to  spare  all  their  lives 
if  any  one  of  them  can 


i 


THE    "  MEISTERTRUNK"    AT    ROTHENBURG. 


287 


drink  up  witlioiit  pausing  all  the  wine  that  the 
bowl  can  contain.  Astonishment  is  written  on 
all  faces  as  Burgomaster  Nusch  steps  forward 
and  says  he  will  nave  the  council.  He  takes  a 
touching  and  affectionate  farewell  of  his  wife  and 
fellow-councillors,  and  at  this  point  of  the  play, 
which  is  exceedingly  .well  acted,  the  tension  of 
the  audience  is  very  great,  and  the  silence 
causes  the  scene  to  be  all  the  more  impressive. 

Nusch  raises  the  bowl  to  his  lips  and  drinks. 
He  takes  one  and  a  cjuarter  minutes  to  empty 
the  bowl,  and  as  each  succeeding  second  goes  by 
the  sur[)rise  of  Tilly, 
his  staff, and  all  asseni-  n 

bled,    increases.       At        .  ^2^?^:^ 


last  Nusch  stops  and  holds  out  the  bowl 
to  Tilly.  It  is  empty  !  The  feat  is  accom- 
plished, and,  having  reminded  the  general 
of  his  promise,  the  brave  burgomaster  falls 
down  dead. 

Such  is  the  play  of  "  Der  Meistertrunk," 
and  anyone  in  the  near  vicinity  of  Rothen- 
burg  on  W'hii-Monday  should  make  a  point 
of  being  present  to  witness  it.  After  the 
play  is  over  the  actors  make  a  parade  of 
the  town  in  their  costumes. 

It  is,  perhaps,  needless  to  remark  that  in 


From  ci\ 


"the  burgomasters  wife. 


\Photo. 


tlie  play  the  bowl  is  empty,  and  the  actor  is  not 
under  the  necessity  of  repeating  the  great  feat 
of  Burgomaster  Nusch,  which  would  probably 
end  in  an  equally  tragic  fashion. 


The   Shrine  by  the   Nujha  Bridge. 

By  Robert  D.  Rudolf,  M.D.  (Edin.),  M.R.C.P.  (Lond.). 

Dr.  Rudolf  relates  the  curious  history  of  an  unfinished  bridge  across  a  river  in  Northern  Bengal.     The 

European  contractor  laid  sacrilegious  hands  on  a  native  shrine  which  stood  in  the  way,,  whereupon  the 

priest  in  charge  cursed  him.     The  tragic  fulfilment  of  the  curse  is  unfolded  in  the  story. 


HEY  are  afraid  to  be  there  by 
night,  sir.  With  your  honour's 
permission  they  will  remain  here 
until  daylight." 

Such,  being  interpreted,  was  the 
unwilling  reply  which  I  at  last  e.xtracted  from 
my  bearer,  Siree,  as  to  why  my  servants  should 
be  stretched  on  the  veranda  outside  my  bed- 
room, snoring  in  different  keys  and  spoiling  my 
chances  of  sleeping.  I  did  not  put  the  natural 
("luery,  "What  are  they  afraid  of  ?"  well  know- 
ing that  the  superstitious  mind  of  the  average 
native  of  India  is  afraid  of  most  things  at  night, 
and  that  it  fancies  every  shadow  peopled  with 
spirits.  Hence  I  accepted  his  answer,  and  once 
more  commenced  to  toss  about  on  the  hard, 
uneven  bed. 

IJut  what  with  the  noisy  creaking  of  the 
I)unkah  overhead,  and  the  grunting  and  snoring 
outside  in  the  veranda,  sleep  fled  still  farther 
away,  and  .soon  I  lay  acutely  awake  and  listen- 
ing intently — for  what  I  knew  not.  The  night 
was  perfectly  still  and  hot  almost  beyond  bear- 
ing. I  lay  in  the  (lOvernment  dak-bungalow, 
which  had  been  built  some  years  before  for  the 
iccommodation  of  the  occasional  traveller  who 
might  have  to  pass  through  this  barren,  sun- 
^rorched  district  of  Northern  Bengal. 

I  believe  that  several  years  previously  I  had 
pent  a  night  here  on  my  way  to  the  cool 
liti^hts  of  the  Himalayas,  a  hundred  iniles 
f.irtlier  north,  but  a  raging  fever  then  blurred 
my  .senses  and  the  place  now  struck  no  familiar 
(  hord  in  ray  memory. 

Being  fjuite  sure,  at  last  that  sleep  and  I 
were  divorced  for  the  night,  I  arose  and  woke 
my  bearer,  who  lay  in  the  doorway,  rolled  up  in 
his  white  chuddar^  looking  like  a  mummy.  I 
dressed  myself  and,  bidding  him  follow  me, 
picked  my  way  through  the  sleeping  forms  on 
the   veranda,  and  so   out    into   the   moonlight 


night.  It  was  almost  as  bright  as  day,  and  the 
great  full  moon  cast  sharp-cut  shadows  of 
striking  intensity  upon  the  white  ground. 

My  old  bearer  had  often  been  here  before — 
in  fact,  was  born  near  the  spot — and  he  led  me 
across  the  dry,  dusty  grass  to  the  still  more 
dusty  high  road,  which  stretched  north  and 
south  straight  as  a  sunbeam.  A  few  scraggy 
palms  lined  the  road  like  telegraph  posts. 
Across  it,  to  the  east,  a  native  village,  flanked 
by  a  grove  of  mango  trees  and  a  leafless 
tamarind  or  two,  lay  silent  in  the  moonlight 
except  for  the  dismal  howling  of  a  wakeful 
pariah.  At  the  back  of  the  dak-bungalow  were 
the  servants'  quarters,  which  had  recently  been 
run  up  by  a  native  contractor  and  had  never  yet 
been  used.  Beyond  them  the  land  sloped  gently 
to  the  wide  river-bed,  which  Siree  informed  me 
curved  so  sharply  to  the  north  that  the  great 
road  crossed  it  about  a  mile  from  here.  \Ve 
turned  north  on  the  road  and  trudged  along  in 
silence.      It  was  cooler  here  than  indoors. 

"  Sahib,"  said  Siree,  suddenly  stopping  and 
turning  to  me  in  his  abrupt  way,  "  shall  I  tell 
you  why  your  menials  fear  to  dwell  in  the  huts 
provided  for  such  as  they  by  the  great  Govern- 
ment ?  " 

"  Go  ahead,"  I  said,  waking  from  a  half  reverie 
of  far-off,  cool,  green  England. 

"Then  be  pleased  to  follow  me,  sir,"  and 
with  that  he  struck  off  the  road  sharply  to  the 
left  and  along  a  pathway  leading  to  the  river. 
At  first  he  went  quickly,  some  ten  paces  in 
advance  of  me,  but  as  we  neared  the  sloping 
bank  he  seemed  to  beconie  uneasy  and  cautious 
and  slowed  his  pace  so  that  we  were  close 
together.  It  was  not  physical  danger  that  he 
dreaded,  for  when  a  snake  glided  off"  the  foot- 
path only  a  yard  in  front  of  him  he  scarcely 
started,  although  seldom  could  he  have  been 
so  near  to  death  as  at  that  moment. 


THE    SHRINE    BY   THE    NUJHA    BRIDGE. 


289 


"  What  is  it,  Siree  ?  "  I  whispered,  as  his  ill- 
defiiied  dread  presently  infected  me. 

"Do  you  see  that  white  object  there,  sir? 
That  is  where  He  is  buried,  and  that  is  why  no 
man  has  dared  for  years  to  be,  by  night,  where 
we  now  are." 

Yes,  certainly  I  could  see  a  white  stone  struc- 
ture, standing   by   itself  in   the  sloping  ground 


muffled  in  the  warm,  deep  dust.  Siree  seemed 
to  have  forgotten  his  promised  tale,  and  neither 
of  us  spoke.  Soon  we  reached  the  spot  at  which 
the  road  struck  the  river,  and  I  noticed  that, 
becoming  narrowed  to  a  mere  bullock-cart  track, 
it  curved  down  to  the  left  and  across  the  almost 
dry  river-bed,  and  then,  climbing  the  opposite 
bank,    continued    in    its    former    line.     Several 


UO   YOU    SEE   THAT    WHITE   OBJECT   THERE,    SIK  I 


between   the  servants'  quarters  and  the  river — 

the  grave,    evidently,  of  some  European.      But 

such   was,  alas  !   only  too  common  a  sight  near 

these  lonely  dak-bungalows,  and   I   remembered 

with    a  shiver  how  nearly   I   had   needed  one 

when  here  before. 

"  Let  us  return  to  the  road,  your  honour,  and 

I  will  continue  my  tale,"  said  Siree.     We  almost 

ran  back  to  the  highway,  and  both  of  us  heaved 

a  sigh  of  relief  on  gaining  it  ;  it  looked  so  safe 

and   matter-of-fact    in    the  bright    moonlight. 

North  again   we  went,   our  footsteps  sounding 
Vol.  xi.— 37. 


stone  buttresses,  half  ruined,  stood  in  the  river- 
bed and  a  stone  projection  jutted  fiom  the  far 
bank.  These  were  evidently  the  remains  of  the 
bridge  which  the  Government  had  years  before 
commenced.  I  had  understood  that  the  work 
was  begun  many  years  before  the  Mutiny,  and 
had  been  abandoned,  when  almost  completed, 
for  some  reason  known  only  to  those  in  power. 
Certainly  it  seemed  a  n)ost  necessary  work. 

On  the  near  bank,  under  a  large  pepul  tree, 
was  one  of  those  little,  half-ruined  Hindu  shrines 
which  one  sees  so  constantly  in  such  localities. 


290 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


Travellers  crossing  the  river  would  naturally 
pause  just  here  and  might  give  alms  to  the 
priest  in  charge  while  waiting.  And  the  priest 
or  his  relations  usually  work  a  clumsy  rope- 
terry  during  the  rainy  season. 

"This  is  the  scene  of  my  story,  your  honour," 
began  my  bearer.  "Here  it  was  that  the 
fakir  who  tended  this  shrine  worked  his  great 
miracle." 

I  had  seated  myself  and  fallen  into  a  reverie 
again,  but  the  old  man,  continuing,  soon  caught 
my  attention. 
The  following  is 
the  gist  of  his 
narrative,  shorn 
of  the  wealth  of 
detail  which 
lengthened  it 
through  the  re- 
maining hours  of 
the  ni"ht. 


In  the  early 
part  of  last  cen- 
tury, when  "John 
Company  "  still 
ruled  over  India, 
the  road  beside 
which  we  were 
now  seated  was 
made.  It  ex- 
tended fur  hun- 
dreds of  miles 
and  was  meant 
chiefly  for  mili- 
tary purposes. 
When  the  engi- 
neers reached 
this  river  (which 
the  local  natives 
insist  on  (.ailing 
the  "Nujha," 
( )  o  V  e  r  n  m  e  n  t 
maps  to  the  con- 
trary) a  bridge 
became  neces- 
sary, and  a  Scotch 
contractor,  noted 
even    in    those   days 


I.ri'TI.E    OrFERINGS   OF    FOOD. 


for    the    violence    of   his 
language,  was  entrusted  with  the  work. 

Tlie  road,  running  due  north,  would  strike 
the  river-bank  exactly  at  the  spot  where  stood, 
and  still  stands,  the  insignificant  Hindu  shrine 
already  mentioned.  The  road-makers,  on  reach- 
u)g  within  a  few  yards  of  this  edifice,  had 
slopix-'d  operations  until  such  lime  as  the 
l^ridge  .should  be  completed,  and,  crossing 
ihe  river,  continued  their  work  in  the  same  line 
)>eyond.   The  bridge-builder,  Mc'J  avish  by  name, 


summoned  his  hundreds  of  native  employes, 
with  all  their  paraphernalia,  and  gave  his  orders 
for  the  commencement  of   the'  work  forthwith. 

But  a  difficulty  arose.  The  native  overseers 
explained,  hesitatingly,  that  the  work  on  the 
south  bank  must  involve  the  destruction  of 
the  little  shrine,  and  this  they  dared  not  do. 
They  begged  him  to  deflect  the  road  ever 
so  litde,  so  that  the  shrine  might  remain. 
McTavish's  language  on  the  occasion  is 
still      proverbial.       But,     frightened     as     his 

native  inferiors 
were,  they  re- 
mained firm,  and 
all  he  could  do 
was  to  temporize. 
They  consented 
to  build  the  but- 
tresses in  the 
river-bed  and  on 
the  far  bank,  and 
with  this  compro- 
mise he  had,  for 
the  time,  to  rest 
content. 

Day  by  day  the 
structures  grew 
under  the  skilled 
hands  of  the 
builders,  who 
had,  as  the  road 
stretched  ever 
northward,  con- 
quered many 
greater  rivers 
than  the  Nujha. 

McTavish's 
rule  was  of  iron, 
and  woe  be  to 
the  gang  of  men 
who  failed  to 
complete  their 
day's  work,  for,  if 
he  were  sparing 
of  praise,  he  was 
lavish  in  pun- 
ishment, and  no 
day  passed  with- 
out some  exhibition  of  his  temper. 

The  little  temple  was  much  frequented  by 
the  workmen  ancl  their  camp-followers,  for  the 
fame  of  the  aged  priest  who  had  watched  over 
it  for  a  lifetime  was  great.  Inuthermore,  even 
the  dullest  labourer  realized  that  the  day  must 
come  when  the  bridge  and  shrine  could  not 
both  survive,  and  it  was  well  to  propitiate  the 
priest.  Hence  the  shrine  itself  was  covered 
with  marigold  flowers,  little  offerings  of  food 
and  silver  ware,   and  even  money.      Had   the 


THE    SHRINE    BY    THE    NUJHA    URlDGE, 


29  J 


holy  man  not  been  far  removed  from  sordid 
avarice,  he  must  have  blessed  the  coming  of  the 
bridge  and  soon  eased  his  declining  days  witli 
riches. 

Every  morning,  when  the  workers  rose  at  the 
first  streak  of  dawn  and  shivered  round  the 
embers  of  their  fires,  they  would  see  the  holy 
man  already  at  his  devotions  or  performing  his 
ablutions  in  the  fast-dwindling«tream.  And,  as 
they  passed  to  their  work,  they  watched  him 
standing  by  his  shrine  and  looking,  first  south 
along  the  already  completed  road,  then  north  to 
where  it  now  stretched  for  miles,  and  it  was 
clear  to  them  that  he  was  cursing  the  work, 
which,  when  finished,  must  blot  out  the  shrine. 

But  they  had  not  much  time  to  indulge  their 
curiosity  or  fears,  for  soon  the  drive  of  the  day 
would  commence,  and,  when  the  sun  set,  they 
Were  too  tired  for  much  more  than  a  frugal 
supper  and  then  to  sleep. 

At  last  all  was  completed  except  the  buttress 
on  the  near  bank,  which  must  involve  the  de- 
struction of  the  shrine.  The  season  was  growing 
late,  and  the  heat  was  so  great  that  every  day 
the  native  doctor  dreaded  more  and  more  to 
report  the  ever-growing  list  of  heat  casualties. 
He  came  at  last  half  to  think  that  he  was  to 
blame  for  the  sun's  work,  and  Mclavish  acted 
as  if  he  thought  so  too. 

The  engineer  sent  notice  to  the  priest,  through 
a  subordinate,  that  on  a  certain  near  day  he 
would  commence  the  work.  It  chafed  him  to 
be  so  considerate,  but  he  had  orders  not  to  give 
offence. 

The  day  arrived,  a  late  one  in  May,  and 
dawn  showed  an  unusual  amount  of  stir  on  the 
banks  of  the  river.  It  had  been  noised  abroad 
for  days  before  that  on  this  day  the  will  of  the 
aged  priest  and  that  of  the  dreaded  engineer 
would  be  pitted  one  against  the  other.  So  the 
people  from  far  and  near  left  their  villages  and, 
travelling  with  their  women  and  children  through 
the  night,  were  already  here  to  witness  the  duel. 

In  the  engineer's  camj)  little  sleep  had  pre- 
vailed, and  the  voices  of  excited  men  and 
women  had  risen  and  fallen  the  whole  night 
long.  The  workmen  were  in  a  dilemma  :  if 
they  obeyed  their  master  and  started  to  {)ull 
down  the  little  temple,  then  what  evil  might  the 
curses  of  the  priest  not  bring  uf)on  them  and 
their  families?  On  the  other  hand,  dared  they 
disobey  the  iron  will  of  their  master?  A\hat 
would  become  of  the  accumulated  pay  of 
months,  for  which  they  had  striven  so  hard  and 
borne  so  much  ?  Hence,  when  the  fevered 
night  passed  and  a  burning  day  promised, 
tumult  prevailed  in  the  camp. 

There,  as  usual,  was  the  tall,  emaciated  old 
man,  performing  his  devotions  as  was  his  wont, 


and  then  looking  now  south  and  now  north  and 
raising  his  hands  as  if  to  supplicate  the  help 
of  the  god  of  his  shrine.  The  tension  grew. 
McTavish  could  be  seen  breakfasting  as  usual 
in  front  of  his  little  tent,  and  afterwards  smok- 
ing a  cigar  as  he  shouted  orders  to  those 
around. 

The  two  champions  were  easily  visible  to  all 
the  vast  multitude,  and  were  watched  with  much 
the  same  interest  as  would  be  accorded  to 
wrestlers,  for  natives  are  keen  sportsmen  and 
dearly  love  a  trial  of  strength  or  skill.  But  this 
was  no  mere  struggle  for  position  or  a  prize. 
It  was,  in  the  eyes  of  the  spectators,  a  trial  for 
life — a  fight  betwixt  the  god  of  the  shn'ne  and 
the  sahibs — between  the  East  and  the  West, 

McTavish  continued  to  issue  his  orders,  but 
was  apparently  meeting  with  passive  resistance, 
as  his  servants  could  be  seen  salaaming  low  and 
backing  away  from  the  fast-angering  man,  but 
doing  nothing  to  obey  him.  The  shrine  must 
be  pulled  down  at  once  and  the  old  priest  sent 
about  his  business,  he  said.  Already  they  had 
lost  two  hours,  and  the  day  was  getting  hot  and 
nothing  had  been  done. 

Threats  of  punishment  and  actual  beating  of 
one  or  two  of  the  overseers,  who  were  thus 
degraded  in  the  eyes  of  their  workmen,  pro- 
duced no  further  result. 

The  old  priest  stood  there— alone,  by  his 
shrine,  calmly  waiting. 

Already,  to  many,  the  victory  seemed  to  be 
with  the  holy  man,  and  the  workmen  were  glad 
that  they  had  not  gone  to  work  and  that  they 
had  spent  a  little  on  the  shrine.  McTavish 
saw  then  that  something  must  be  done  or  the 
day  would  be  lost.  Taking  his  heavy,  well- 
worn  riding  whip,  he  strode  over  to  the  shrine, 
followed  by  hundreds  of  anxious  natives. 

Was  he  going  to  strike  the  priest  ?  they 
wondered. 

"  No,  not  even  a  sahib  would  dare  to  do 
that,"  murmured  the  crowd. 

Reaching  the  shrine,  McTavish  addressed 
himself  to  the  holy  man,  and  in  even  louder 
tones,  in  his  broken  Hindustani,  bade  him 
leave  the  shrine  to  its  fate. 

The  old  man,  trembling  with  age,  but  with  a 
steady  eye,  stepped  a  few  paces  away  and 
a[)i)arently  waved  to  McTavish,  as  if  challenging, 
him  to  approach  the  shrine.  The  engineer 
turned  triumphantly  to  the  nearest  workmen 
and  ordered  them  to  commence  the  work  of 
destruction.  But  they  only  backed  away  and 
left  him  alone. 

Then  McTavish,  infuriated,  threw  off  his  coat 
and  himself  started  to  pull  away  brick  after 
brick.  And  now  the  excitement  grew  intense. 
The   tall,   gaunt  old  priest    stood   with   raised 


2i)2 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


■=%    ^' 


Kr 


■^'^^sSN 


"  TMK   TALI.,    GAUNT   OLD    I'KIEST   STOOD   WITH    RAISED    HANDS    AND   CURSED   THE    MAN    WHO    WAS    DESECRATING    HIS   SHRINE. 


hands  and  in  slow,  rhythmical  tones  cursed 
the  man  wiio  was  desecrating  his  shrine.  And 
the  man  himself,  unaccustomed  to  manual 
labour  and  growing  ever  angrier,  became  redder 
and  redder,  until  he  seemed  as  if  on  fire.  Bnck 
by  brick  the  slow  destruction  went  on,  McTavish 
throwing  the  stones  disdainfully  from  him. 

"  The  sahib  wins  !  "  "  The  god  of  the  shrine 
is  no  god,  and  the  old  man  is  an  impostor." 
Such  whisperings  began  to  be  bruited  about,  and 
the  fickle  crowd  edged  away  from  the  priest  and 
moved  as  if  to  help  the  while  man. 

Suddenly  cries  arose  :  "  See,  the  sahib 
staggers  !  "  "  He  falls  I  "  "  He  is  struck  by  the 
god  of  the  shrine  !  " 

And,  sure  enough,  the  man  had  fallen  back, 
still  grasping  tightly  a  sun-dried  brick  ;  and 
there  he  lay,  beside  the  little  pile  of  t^t:/>r/s  which 
he  had  removed  dead  !  And  there  still  stood 
the  priest,  cdin  and  erect,  looking  at  his  late 
opponent. 

A  babel  of  voices  arose  ;  the  struggle  was 
over,  and  soon  the  crowds  melted  and  went  their 
various  ways,  to  spread  far  and  wide  the  story  of 
the  great  miracle. 


The  native  overseers  hired  some  low-caste 
men  to  remove  the  body  of  the  unfortunate 
McTavish  to  his  tent,  and  that  night  a  few  of 
his  countrymen — engineers  on  the  road — came 
and  buried  him  and  erected  a  nameless  tomb 
over  the  spot. 

"And  ever  since,  sir,"  concluded  Siree,  "the 
spirit  of  the  sahib  is  said  to  wander  near  his 
grave  at  night,  and  men  say  that  it  may  often 
be  heard  exhorting  others  to  pull  down  the 
shrine."' 

As  the  old  man  finished  his  story  the  first 
gleam  of  the  short  dawn  was  tinting  the  eastern 
sky,  and  just  then  an  old,  white-bearded  man 
issued  from  a  little  hut  near  the  ancient  shrine 
and  tottered  down  to  perform  his  ablutions  in 
a  pool  in  the  river-bed.  He  was,  I  learned,  the 
priest  now  in  charge  of  the  shrine,  and  a 
descendant  of  the  great  fakir. 

"Of  course,"  I  argued  to  myself  on  the  way 
back  to  the  bungalow  as  the  sun  rose,  and  men 
and  women  thronged  the  road  i)assing  to  their 
work  for  the  day — "  of  course,  the  man  died  of 
heat  apoplexy,  probably  precipitated  by  anger 
and  exertion,      l^ut " 


The  Burials  are  a  strange  race  of  nomads  living  in  the   little-known    region  called   Trans-Baikalia,   to 

the  north  of  Mongolia.      They  possess    "living    gods"  and  perform    remarkable  mystery   plays.      The 

author  here  describes  a  visit  he  made  to  the  head-quarters  of  the  tribe. 


MET  my  first  Buriat  in  Manchuria. 
At  that  time  EngHshmen  were  not 
allowed  to  travel  on  the,  as  yet,  un- 
completed Manchurian  railway,  and 
I  had  slipped  through  in  disguise 
as  book-keeper  to  a  merchant  travelling  up  to 
Kharbin.  My  train,  a  construction  one,  pro- 
ceeded at  a  leisurely  pace  through  practically 
uninhabited  country,  dropping  telegra|)h  posts 
by  the  side  of  the  line  and  pulling  up  for  two 
and  a  half  days  at  a  time  to  allow  of  the 
Chinese  coolies  to  prepare  the  line  in  front  of 
us,  or  for  three  times  as  many  hours  for  the 
engine  driver  to  indulge  in  a  game  of  cards  at  a 
"  potential  station."  From  Kharbin  to  Man- 
churia, the  western  terminus  of  the  railway,  is  a 
distance  of  five  hundred  and  eighty-one  and  a 
half  miles,  and  this  we  accomplished  in  ten  and 
a  (juarter  days.  Food  grew  scarce  at  times,  and 
among  the  Khingan  Mountains  a  crust  of  black 
bread  four  days  old  and  water  tapped  from  the 
engine  when  the  driver  was  not  looking  had  to 
suffice  for  a  meal,  with  a  temperature  outside  of 
sixty  three  degrees  of  frost  (Fahr.). 


Nine  miles  beyond  Manchuria  Station  the 
train  crossed  the  Siberian  frontier.  Here  I 
was  in  the  region  called  Trans-Baikalia,  and 
between  this  and  Lake  Baikal  is  the  home  of 
the  Buriats.  They  are  great  nomads,  and,  like 
other  Mongols,  almost  live  on  horseback.  Many 
a  time  have  I  seen  them  coursing  like  the  wind 
over  the  boundless  steppe  for  the  pure  love  of  a 
race.  As  winter  approached,  the  northern  slopes 
that  border  the  steppe  were  peopled  by  their 
herds  of  Siberian  ponies—  sturdy  little,  sure- 
footed creatures — shaggy  camels,  and  black 
cattle.  It  seemed  strange  that  these  could  get 
any  sustenance  at  all  in  this  snow-clad  country, 
but,  used  as  they  were  to  roughing  it  in  an 
extreme  climate,  they  were  pawing  up  the  snow 
to  get  at  the  grass,  just  as  the  reindeer,  in  more 
northern  latitudes,  do  to  obtain  their  beloved 
lichen. 

Their  masters  live  on  their  flocks  and  herds, 
and  an  ordinary  meal  consists  of  millet  mixed 
with  sheep's  tail  fat,  and  an  infusion  of  brick 
tea  cooked  with  butter  and  milk.  Their  dress, 
excepting  that  of  rich  Buriats,  is  not  remarkable. 


204 


THE    WIDE    AVORED    AL'XGAZINE. 


A  long,  full  ulster 
and  cap  of  Man- 
chu  shape  are  worn 
by  the  men,  while 
the  women  dress 
in  a  tunic  adorned 
with  beads  and 
charms.  In  winter 
both  sexes  use 
furs.  Their  homes 
are  great  circular 
felt  tents,  with 
convex  roofs.  In- 
side, in  the  centre, 
is  the  fire,  and 
around  this  are 
strewn  strips  of 
felt.  I'he  walls 
are  of  double 
thicknesses  of  felt, 
supported  by  laths. 
Their  homes  are 
therefore  easily 
moved  from  place 
to  place,  for  they 
love  the  freedom 
of  the  far-reaching  steppes  and  return  with  re- 
luctance to  the  shelter  of  hemmed-in  valleys. 
Where  else  than  on  the  steppe  can  one  see  such 
glorious  sunsets,  or,  squatted  at  the  tent  door, 
watch  the  luminous  stars  steal  out  one  by  one, 


/jm^ 

^^S^ 

^^L  "^  •  j^B 

i^ 

"iiiS 

i- 

1'- 
> 

1 

/•jo;;:  a] 


A    li'JKlAT    NO.MAU   ON    THE    STKI'I'ES. 


family  sends  a  son 
to  a  Daisan,  or 
monastery,  to  be 
educated  as  a 
Eama  or  monk. 

There  can  be 
little  doubt  that 
before  the  begin- 
ning of  the  eigh- 
teenth century  the 
Buriats  —  at  any 
rate,  those  to  the 
east  of  Lake  Baikal 
—  were  Shaman- 
ists  :  that  is,  be- 
lievers in  the 
powers  of  witch- 
craft and  sorcery 
of  a  Shaman  or 
medicine  man, and 
given  to  demon- 
olatry  ;  but  about 
this  time  they  were 
converted  to  Bud- 
dhism, or,  rather, 
to  Lamaism.  The 
difference  between  these  is  seen  in  the  contrast 
between  the  simpler  religion  of  Burma  and 
Siam  and  the  ritualistic  form  in  Tibet. 

The    religious    centre    of   the    Buriats  is    the 
Datsan  or  Lamasery  on  "  Goose   Lake,"  as  the 


[Photo. 


!■-      i  I.MI'l.K    (>!■      1  Ml-;      111  RIA  I  > 


[/•holo 


invaded   b)   .i  ^nsc  .;f  my.sterious  melancholy, 
not  without  its  charm  ? 

The  ordmary  Huriat  is  a  wild  nomad,  but  I 
have  met  several  who  were  rich  in  herds  of 
cattle ;    and,    curiously    enough,    nearly    every 


Russians  call  it,  or  "  Gelung  nor"  ("the  Lake 
of  Priests  "),  as  it  is  known  among  the  Buriats. 
This  sheet  of  water  is  near  the  south-eastern  end 
of  Lake  Baikal.  Coming  from  Manchuria 
through  "lYhita  one  descends  at  Verkni  Udinsk. 


AMONG    THE    BURIATS. 


295 


F>0in  a\  THE   GRAND    LAMA    OF    THE   CURIATS. 


[Photo. 


Posting  south  for  one  hundred  miles,  Novi 
(New)  Selenginsk  is  reached.  Taking  a 
track  westwards  from  here  for  sixteen  miles, 
winding  through  low  hills,  we  come  to  the 
(lOose  Lake,  at  the  south  end  of  which 
rises,  backed  by  the  blue  mountains  thirty 
miles  distant,  a  curious  white  temple  sur- 
rounded by  log  huts. 

One  of  my  photographs  shows  this 
remarkable  temple,  and  around  it  are  the 
dwellings  of  the  Lamas  and  seminarists, 
of  whom  there  are  about  one  thousand 
five  hundred.  The  prospect  of  becoming 
a  Lama  has  all  the  attractions  that  the 
ministry  has  for  the  Scotch  widow's  son. 
The  boy  is  handed  over  at  an  early  age  to 
a  Lama,  in  whose  hut  or  yurta  he  lives, 
going  through  a  course  in  the  Daisau 
lasting  for  no  less  than  ten  years.  This 
course  consists  of  religious  dogmas, 
'I'ibetan  theology,  literature  and  medicine, 
and  Buddhist  philosophy,  astronomy,  and 
astrology.  Notwithstanding  this  the  Lamas 
are  not,  as  a  body,  educated  men,  even 
judged  by  their  own  standards.  They 
learn  to  write  Tibetan  characters  and  to 
recite     their     scriptures,     but     understand 


very  little  of  them.  It  is  different  with  the 
Khamba  Lama,  the  head  or  Grand  Lama  of 
Siberia,  who  is  shown  in  the  photo,  herewith.  He 
is  a  man  of  considerable  reading  and  intellectual 
power.  Earlier  in  the  year  he  had  preceded  me  as 
the  guest  of  a  friend  of  mine  in  Colombo.  He  is 
here  seen  in  a  gorgeous  yellow  silk  robe,  with  a 
wide  scarlet  silk  scarf  thrown  over  his  shoulder, 
^nd  wears  a  cap  of  yellow  felt,  the  lining  em- 
broidered with  gold  thread. 

It  will  be  news  to  most  people  who  have  not 
travelled  in  these  parts  that  the  Buriats  possess 
to  this  day  a  number  of  "living  gods."  There 
are  some  hundred  and  three  in  all  of  them, 
and  they  render  sacred  by  their  presence  monas- 
teries throughout  Tibet,  Mongolia,  and  China. 
They,  like  all  the  Lamas,  are  celibates,  but  they 
are  regarded  as  sinless  and,  together  with  the 
Dalai  Lamas,  enjoy  the  distinction  of  re-incarna- 
lion  at  death  as  distinguished  from  transmigra- 
tion. Their  presence  brings  many  a  pilgrim 
and  much   wealth   to  the   Lamasery.     Believers 


ONE   OK    THE   SI  RA.NtiE    "LIVING    GODS  "    OF   THE    BUKIAT^— 1  iil-.kt  AKI 
OVKR    A    HUNDRED   OK   THESE    MOV    "  GODS,"    AND    LARGE   OFFERINGS 

From  a\  ake  made  to  them. 


[Photo. 


296 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


it  out  a\ 


THE.  OKCHFSTRA   OF    THE   TEMPLE   SUMMONS    THE    FAITHFUL   TO    A    SERVICE. 


{Photo. 


!■  rom  a] 


THE    INTEHIllR   OF   THE   TEMPLE. 


{Photo, 


AMONG    THE    BURIATS. 


297 


flock  to  consult  them  as  to  oracles  and  fortune- 
tellers. A  prayer  offered  to  these  "  living  gods,' 
the  touch  of  their  hands,  or  their  benediction, 
are  regarded  as  great  blessings,  and  large  offer- 
ings are  made  to  them. 

My  friend,  M.  Labb^,  who  was  armed  with 
credentials  from  tlie  French  and  Russian 
Governments,  had  an  interview  with  the  "living 
god "  represented  on  page  95.  The  day  was 
far  advanced  when  the  traveller  arrived,  and 
quarters  were 
found  for  him  in 
the  village,  'i'he 
next  morning, 
after  due  cere- 
mony, he  was 
ushered  into  the 
presence  of  the 
G  e  g  e  n ,  or 
"  god,"  Tara- 
natha  by  name, 
a  youth  of 
pleasant  coun- 
tenance and 
splendidly 
arrayed  in  silks. 
The  interview 
that  followed 
was  eminently 
characteristic 
both  of  the 
Buddhist  eccle- 
siastic and  of 
the  Frenchman. 
The  one  was  all 
dignity,  the 
other  all  suavity 
and  politeness. 
The  Gegen  ex-, 
pressed  the 
hope  that  his 
distinguished 
visitor  from  a 
far-off  land  had 
found  his 
accommodation 
in  the  village  to 
his  taste.  M. 
Labbe  replied 
with  ceremoni- 
ous thanks,  but  could  not  refrain  from  mention- 
Hig  that  he  had  been  tormented  by  fleas. 
"  However,"  he  added,  "  I  killed  about  thirty  of 
them."  "  I  regret  it,"  said  the  Gegen,  gravely  ; 
"  it  was  a  sin  to  have  done  so.  How  do  you 
know  but  that  in  your  next  existence  you  may 
yourself  become  a  flea?"  "  Then,"  replied  M. 
Labbe,  with  true  P>ench  politeness,  "  I  should 
never  attack  you  1 " 

Vol.  xi.  — 38. 


ONE   OF   THE   SACRED    FIGl.'KES   OK    1  HE   TEMl'LE— IT    REJ'KESENTS   A   WHITE   ELEPHANT. 

From  a  Photo. 


I  fear  that  the  Gegen,  all  things  considered, 
has  a  very  poor  time  of  it,  surrounded  as  he  is 
by  Lamas,  and  not  allowed  to  do  this,  that,  or 
the  other.  His  development  is  checked,  and  he 
becomes  a  tool  in  their  hands.  He  is  a  Pope, 
but  a  boy  Pope,  with  all  that  that  means  in  the 
hands  of  the  cardinals  of  Lamaism.  Like  the 
Dalai  Lama  of  Lhassa,  who  never  dies,  his  spirit 
is  supposed  to  enter  into  the  body  of  a  new-born 
mfant ;  but  in  point  of  rank  he  is  one  of  many 

who  are  inferior 
to  the  Grand 
Lama  of  Lhassa, 
the  Panchhan 
Rinbochhi  of 
Tibet,  and  the 
(jegen  of  Urga. 
On  the  pre- 
ceding page  is 
represented  the 
summons  to  a 
grand  service  at 
which  the 
(iegen  and  the 
Khamba  Lama 
were  present. 
Ascending  the 
steps  of  the 
temple  one 
passes  through 
the  gaily- 
coloured  porch 
to  the  scene 
depicted  below 
the  above 
illustration.  A 
broad  nave  with 
stout  wooden 
pillars  separates 
the  two  aisles. 
The  pillars  and 
winged  capitals 
are  painted  in 
red,  blue,  green, 
and  yellow,  har- 
monized as  only 
the  Orientals 
can,  and  resem- 
bling those  in 
the  audience 
halls  of  the  Imperial  Palace  at  Pekin,  within 
the  Forbidden  City.  Strung  across  and  hanging 
on  the  walls  are  votive  offerings.  Oriental 
lanterns,  and  paintings  of  saints  (Purkhans) 
and  temples. 

The  Lamas  were  seated  in  rows  down  the 
nave  and  aisles,  in  their  brillant  yellow  and 
scarlet  silk  robes,  while  the  Khamba  Lama  and 
the  Gegen  were  in  the  places  of  honour  at  the 


2pS 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


farther  end.  'J'lie  strange,  monotonous  chanting 
and  intoning,  which  I  had  heard  before  in  the 
great  Lama  temple  of  Pekin,  hardly  fell  in  with 
my  Western  notions  of  music.  Imagine,  if  you 
can,  what  it  sounded  like  when  aided  by  the 
"  musical "  uproar  caused  by  the  striking  of 
triangles,  the  roaring  of  conch  shells,  the  clashing 
of  cymbals,  the  blowing  of  eight-foot  trumpets, 
and  the  banging  of  great  drums.  Fortunately, 
as  one  would  think,  for  the  walls  of  the  temple, 
the  service  lasted  only  a  quarter  of  an  hour. 


Mystic  plays  called  Tzam,  or  "  the  dance  of 
the  Burkhans,"  are  given  on  special  occasions. 
To  the  sound  of  the  big  drums  and  blasts  on 
the  eight-foot  trumpets  and  conch  shells,  several 
strange  figures  wearing  most  extraordinary  masks 
appear,  and  whirl  about  in  apparently  fierce 
affray.  Some  have  on  what  appear  to  be  death's 
head  masks,  one  has  a  stag's  head  and  antlers, 
another  a  grinning  demon's  head  adorned  with 
flags,  while  yet  another  looks  uncommonly  like 
Father  Christmas  and  Neptune  rolled  into  one. 


From  a\ 


A    BURIAT   MVSTERV    PI.A^. 


[/•/loto. 


Surrounding  this  central  temple  are  smaller 
ones  called  siaiie,  dedicated  to  a  special 
Jiurkhan,  or  sacred  figure.  Offerings  are  made 
to  these  iJurkhans,  but  the  Lamas  deprecate 
the  idea  that  they  regard  them  as  deities,  look- 
ing upon  them  rather  as  saints. 

Another  illustration  shows  one  of  these 
"  sacred  figures,"  and  represents  a  white  elephant. 
It  was  carved  out  of  wood  and  painted  by  a 
native  sculptor,  who  had  most  likely  never  seen 
a  living  elephant.  His  creation  does  him  credit, 
though  its  tusks  are  .set  at  a  remarkable  angle 
and  its  trunk  suggests  an  ant-eater's  snout. 

Once  a  year,  in  July,  hung  with  gorgeous 
tra[)pings,  the  elephant  is  harnessed  to  a  car 
l)earing  a  beautiful  miniature  temple,  and  a 
great  procession  is  formed  to  the  strains  of 
music. 


A  few  have  no  masks,  but  wear  a  splendid 
golden  head-gear  of  filigree  work.  It  is  a 
brilliant  scene.  The  flashing  of  jewels  and  the 
rapid  mingling  of  golden  brocades,  scarlet  silks, 
purple  velvet,  and  cords  and  tassels  of  all  hues 
produce  a  wonderful  kaleidoscopic  effect. 

The  spectator,  dazzled  by  the  brilliancy  of  the 
scene  and  dazed  by  the  din  of  musical  instru- 
ments, at  last  makes  out  that  the  persons  without 
masks  and  armed  with  daggers,  who  ai)j)ear  to 
typify  the  good  spirits,  have  vanquished  the 
death's  heads  and  the  miscellaneous  demons 
and  monsters  of  evil,  and  have  been  left 
victors  on  the  field.  'J'hat,  at  least,  is  a  possible 
solution  ;  but  if  the  raison  d'etre  is  difficult  to 
discover,  its  origin  is  even  more  doubtful. 

Probaljly  Shamanism  with  its  witchcraft,  in 
the  north,    and  Hindu   magic  with  its    Sivaitic 


AMONG    THE    BURIATS. 


299 


mysteries,  in  the  south,  are  responsible  for  this 
curious  development  m  Buddhism.  It  is  cer- 
tainly true  that  the  Lamas  have  adopted  many 
of  the  native  good  and  evil  spirits,  m  order  that 
the  Buriats  may  look  upon  Lamaism  as  only 
an  extension  and  development  of  their  own 
religion.  In  connection  with  this  I  may  narrate 
a  little  story. 

A  friend  of  mine,  an   Englishman,    was   ex- 


the  other  side  half-drowned,  yet  alive  and  safe. 
Turning  to  his  guide,  who  was  a  kind  of  deacon 
of  his  village  temple,  my  friend  said  :  "  But  I 
thought  you  were  a  Buddhist  ?  "  "Yes,  master," 
replied  the  man,  "  but  it  is  always  well  to  keep 
on  good  terms  with  the  local  god  ! " 

The  last  photograph  shows  the  picture  of  an 
old  Buriat  doctor  who  is  weighing  out  drugs  for 
his  weird    concoctions.       A    carriage   and   pair 


Fyoin  a\ 


.\    l-.URIAT    IMEDICINE    MAN. 


\Pkoto. 


ploring  for  the  Chinese  Government  in  a  little- 
known  part  of  Northern  Mongolia.  He  had 
crossed  from  the  north  the  Sayansk  range  and 
the  Tannu-Ola,  and  was  making  for  Kobdo. 
Again  and  again  he  had  had  to  swim  rivers  on 
horseback,  and  coming  one  day  to  a  larger  one 
than  usual  he  found  it  in  flood.  The  current 
was  alarmingly  swift,  and  it  was  a  case  of  touch 
and  go  in  mid-stream.  His  Mongol  guide  had 
begun  by  muttering  prayers,  but  as  he  neared 
the  middle  his  supplications  to  the  presiding 
deity  or  demon  of  the  rivers  grew  louder  and 
louder,  and  his  free  hand  rose  higher  and  higher 
in  entreaty,  until  his  voice  ended  almost  in  a 
scream. 

Fortunately  for  my  friend  the  genius  of  the 
river  was  favourably  disposed,  and  they  reached 


would  be  of  little  use  to  this  remarkable  old 
"  general  practitioner."  A  "  ship  of  the  desert " 
or  a  pony  would  be  much  more  to  the  point. 
His  nomad  patients  are  here  to-day  and  forty 
miles  distant  on  the  steppe  to-morrow. 

His  art  is  a  mixture  of  the  lore  of  ancient 
Tibetan  medical  works  and  the  strange  customs 
of  Shaman  sorcerers.  For  instance,  he  will 
disperse  gouty  swellings  by  beating  them  with 
small  rods.  He  decocts  strange  herbs  for 
internal  use,  and  will  apply  externally  portions 
of  particular  animals,  even  to  their  fur. 

One  wonders  how  soon  his  "  practice "  will 
be  disturbed  by  the  relentless  onrush  of  civili- 
zation, for  I  met  in  my  hotel  at  Moscow  a  half- 
caste  Buriat  who  has  a  large  practice  and  a 
considerable  reputation  in  that  city. 


3DKIFT    OIN    A    RAFT. 

By  H.  a.  Hamilton,  of  Liverpool. 

A  sailor's  plain  tale  of  a  terrible  experience.      With  their  vessel  sinking  under  their  feet  and  their  boats 

washed  away,  the  crew  of  the  Liverpool  barque  "Cordillera  "  built  a  tiny  raft.     Nineteen  men  took  to 

it,  but  when  a  steamer  finally  hove  in  sight  only  the  author  and  two  others  remained. 


MONO  the  many  and  varied  accounts 
of  shipwreck  which  appear  from  time 
to  time,  it  is  but  seldom  nowadays 
that  one  reads  of  actual  sufferings 
and  experiences  on  a  raft,  and  more 
seldom  still  do  cases  occur  where  the  survivors 
have  been  obliged  to  construct  one  as  a  means 
of  .safety,  a  specially-constructed  pattern  of  raft 
being  included  in  the  life-saving  appliances  of 
almost  all  large  ships  of  the  present  day. 

Such  an  experience,  however,  fell  to  my  lot 
some  few  years  ago.  I  was  then  first  mate  of 
the  barque  Cordillera,  of  Liverpool,  an  iron 
vessel  of  seven  hundred  and  eighty-eight  tons 
register  and  about  thirty  years  old. 

She  was  a  first-rate  sea-boat,  though,  like 
many  ships  built  in  her  time,  she  required  an 
unusually  large  amount  of  ballast  for  a  vessel 
of  her  size. 

At  the  time  the  disaster  of  which  I  am 
writing  took  place  we  had  been  away  from  home 
about  thirteen  months,  having  originally  sailed 
from  Liverpool  to  the  Cape  with  a  general 
cargo,  thence  to  Newcastle,  N.S.W.,  in  ballast, 
where  we  loaded  a  cargo  of  coal  for  Valparaiso. 

Having  sailed  considerably  more  than  half- 
way around  the  globe  it  was  only  to  be  expected 
that  we  should  have  encountered  all  sorts  of 
weather,  but  we  managed  to  come  safely  through 
it  all,  and  it  remained  for  what  we  looked  for- 
ward to  as  a  comparatively  fine-weather  passage 
to  put  the  climax  upon  both  voyage  and  ship. 

Having  discharged  our  cargo  of  coal  in  Val- 
paraiso, the  vessel  was  chartered  to  load  nitrate 
at  a  port  called  Caleta  Buena,  some  eight 
hundred  miles  north  of  Valparaiso.  We  were 
to  proceed  to  our  destination  in  ballast. 

It  being  customary  in  ports  on  the  Chilian 
coast  for  the  crews  of  vessels  to  discharge  and 
load  tile  cargoes,  our  men,  of  course,  took  on 
board  the  ballast.  During  the  time  we  were 
thus  employed  there  were  two  or  more  of  the 
men  off  duty  ill,  and  during  the  last  few  days 
there  were  four  on  the  sick  list,  which  meant  a 
considerable  drawljack  to  us  out  of  our  small 
working  staff.  I  mention  these  facts  merely  to 
show  why  it  was  that  the  ballast  was  not  so  well 
trimmed  and  secured  before  leaving  port  as  it 
might  otherwise  have  been. 

The  ballast  consisted  of  dry,  fine  sand  from 
the    beach,    brought    alongside    the   vessel    in 


lighters  and  taken  on  board  by  the  crew.  The 
hold  was  prepared  in  the  usual  way,  with  shift- 
ing-boards amidships  to  prevent  the  sand 
from  moving  when  once  properly  trimmed 
and  stowed. 

The  latter  part  of  the  ballasting,  however,  was 
a  hurried  affair.  It  was  Friday,  and  the  captain 
was  anxious  to  complete  the  work  that  day,  so 
we  devoted  all  our  energies  to  getting  the  sand 
on  board,  leaving  the  trimming  to  be  attended 
to  afterwards.  .  I  may  mention  in  passing  that 
had  our  four  sick  men  been  on  duty  the 
trimming  might  easily  have  been  attended  to  at 
the  time.  As  it  was  it  took  us  all  our  time  to 
get  the  last  of  the  ballast  on  board  by  six  p.m., 
and  when  we  finished  work  for  the  day  the  sand 
in  the  hold  was  piled  high  above  the  shifting- 
boards.  This,  as  afterwards  proved,  led  to  all 
our  troubles. 

Next  day  we  unmoored  ship  and  were  towed 
farther  out  in  the  bay,  where  we  came  to  an 
anchor.  Unmooring  ship  in  Valparaiso  occupies 
considerable  time,  so  that  it  was.  noon  by  the 
time  we  had  anchored.  The  remainder  of  the 
day  was  spent  in  bending  sails  and  getting  ready 
for  sea. 

On  the  following  morning,  Sunday,  the 
captain  gave  orders  to  weigh  anchor,  the  wind 
being  favourable.  He  was  anxious  to  get  to 
our  port  without  loss  of  time,  it  being  absolutely 
necessary  that  the  ship  should  be  there  to 
commence  loading  on  a  given  date,  or  else  lose 
the  charter. 

We  accordingly  weighed  anchor,  and  about 
10.30  a.m.  started  to  low  out  to  sea.  About 
eleven  o'clock,  while  busy  securing  the  anchor 
on  board,  the  tug-boat  cast  us  off,  so  we  com- 
menced setting  sail.  There  was  a  moderate 
gale  blowing  at  the  time  from  the  S.S.W.  and 
steadily  increasing,  with  frequent  heavy  squalls. 
Having  set  the  necessary  sails  we  stood  out  to 
sea. 

At  the  time  of  sailing  the  ship  was  some 
twelve  or  fourteen  inches  down  by  the  head, 
owing  to  the  ballast  not  being  trimmed  far 
enough  aft  in  the  hold,  and  this,  of  course, 
interfered  considerably  with  her  steering.  In 
fact,  as  we  drew  out  from  the  land  and 
felt  the  full  force  of  the  wind  we  found 
that  she  would  not  steer  at  all,  but  headed 
steadily  out  to  the  westward.     Sometimes  she 


ADRIFT    ON    A    RAFT. 


30 1 


fell  off  a  point  or  two,  but  only  to  come 
right  up  again  during  the  squalls,  thus  keeping 
the  wind  and  sea  right  abeam.  Every  expedient 
was  resorted  to  to  induce  her  either  to  go  off 
before  or  come  up  to  the  wind,  but  without 
effect.  Feeling  the  full  force  of  the  wind  - 
which  by  this  time  had  increased  to  a  fresh  gale 
^the  ship  heeled  over  at  a  considerable  angle, 
which  fact,  however,  called  for  no  particular 
notice  at  first,  as  we  knew  she  was  rather 
"tender"  when  in  ballast.  But  as  the  sea  in- 
creased rapidly  with  the  wind  and  she  began  to 
roll  heavily  to  leeward,  it  became  very  evident 
that  she  was  heeling  over  rather  more  than  she 
ought  to  do  with  the  pressure  of  sail  then  set. 
This  led  to  a  visit  to  the  hold,  where  the  cause 
of  her  heeling  was  at  once  apparent.  The  heap 
of  sand  which  had  lain  piled 
up  above  the  shifting-boards 
was  settling  steadily  over  to 
starboard  with  each  roll  cf  the 
ship  !  As  the  helm  was  utterly 
useless,  all  attempts  to  put  her 
on  the  other  tack  either  by 
"  wearing  "  or  "tacking  "  were 
in  vain,  so  sail  was  taken  in  to 
prevent  her  going  farther  over, 
and  all  hands  were  ordered 
below  to  shovel  the  sand  to 
the  port  side  of  the  hold  and 
endeavour  in  this  way  to  bring 
the  ship  upright. 

But  all  our  labour  was  in 
vain,  for  with  each  lurch  the 
ship  gave  the  sand  ran  bodily 
to  leeward,  so  that  it  was 
simply  useless  to  try  to  cope 
with  it.  While  all  hands  were 
thus  engaged  below  the  vessel 
rolled  heavily  to  windward  and 
then  lurched  quickly  back  to 
leeward  again,  heeling  right 
over  as  if  she  were  going  to 
capsize,  the  result  being  that 
the  sand  settled  to  leeward  in 
tons,  half-burying  some  of  the 
men  below. 

Finding  it  useless  to  con- 
tinue any  longer  below,  the 
men  were  ordered  on  deck. 
The  vessel  was  by  this  time 
nearly  on*  her  beam  ends,  her 
starboard  rail  being  com[)letely 
under  water.  As  the  heavy 
sea  was  then  running  right  up 
under  her  port  bilge  she  con- 
tinued to  lurch  heavily  to  star- 
board, going  gradually  over 
more  and  more  all  the  time. 


It  was  now  about  four  o'clock  in  the  after- 
noon, and  it  became  (juite  evident  that,  unless 
the  wind  moderated  and  the  sea  rapidly 
subsided,  there  were  little  or  no  hopes  of  saving 
the  shi[).  The  idea  of  cutting  away  the  masts 
had  been  abandoned  for  the  reason  that  we 
could  not  get  at  the  starboard  rigging  lanyards 
to  cut  them  away,  they  being  under  water. 
Had  we  cut  away  the  port  rigging  and  back- 
stays the  masts  as  they  went  overboard  would 
be  certain  to  tear  the  starboard  chainplates  out, 
when,  of  course,  the  ship  would  have  filled  in  a 
few  minutes  and  gone  down.  As  it  happened 
all  the  lanyards  were  new  wire,  fitted  previous 
to  leaving  port,  and  not  by  any  means  likely  to 
break,  even  with  the  weight  of  masts  and  yards. 

Having  covered  and  battened  all  the  hatches 


iP-.-'i' 


'  THE   SAND   SETTLED   TO    LEEWARD    IN   TONS. 


302 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


securely,  we  turned  our  attention  to  the  life- 
boat, it  being  the  only  one  we  had,  the  small 
boat  which  had  been  hanging  in  the  starboard 
davits  having  been  unhooked  and  smashed  by 
the  sea  when  the  ship  first  listed  over. 

The  lifeboat,  however,  was  in  very  good  con- 
dition, well  equipped  and  quite  large  enough  to 
carry  twice  the  number  of  our  crew ;  so  we  set 
to  work  to  get  it  lowered  into  the  water.  This, 
by  the  way,  proved  no  very  easy  matter,  as  the 
boat  was  not  placed  by  the  davits  with  tackles 
hooked  on,  as  is  the  case  in  nearly  all  modern 
ships,  but  was  secured  on  skids  well  forward  of 
the  davits  on  the  port  side.  The  appliances, 
fitted  for  getting  it  into  the  water  under  ordinary 
circumstances,  were  tackles  from  the  main  and 
mizzen  mastheads.  Add  to  this  the  position  in 
which  the  ship  was  lying  and  her  repeated 
heavy  lurching  to  starboard,  and  some  idea 
may  be  formed  of  the  difficulties  wc  had  to 
overcome 

We  succeeded  at  last  in  getting  the  boat 
lowered  safely  into  the  water.  It  was  not. our 
intention,  however,  to  abandon  the  ship  at  once, 
but  to  have  the  boat  in  readiness  in  case  we 
should  be  obliged  to  take  to  it  suddenly. 
Although  there  was  a  heavy  sea  running,  we 
did  not  fear  that  the  boat  would  not  lie  safely 
enough  under  the  lee  of  the  ship  by  using  the 
little  oil  we  had  to  keep  the  sea  from  breaking. 
With  this  object  in  view  a  good  rope  was  made 
fast  to  the  boat  to  drop  her  astern,  and  two  men 
sent  into  her  with  orders  to  keep  her  clear  of 
the  mainbrace  and  other  gear,  which  was  rising 
and  falling  in  the  water  with  the  rolling  of  the 
ship.  In  this,  unfortunately,  they  did  not 
succeed,  and  instead  of  keeping  the  boat  off 
they  allowed  her  to  hang  close  alongside  the 
^iiip,  where  she  finally  got  under  the  mainbrace, 
ilie  bumkin  of  which  came  down  upon  her 
with  a  heavy  lurch  of  the  ship  and  smasiicd 
her.  The  two  men,  managing  to  grasp  some  of 
the  ropes  hanging  in  the  water,  were  hauled  on 
board.  The  boat,  broken  and  useless,  passed 
under  the  ship's  bottom,  and  coming  up  on  the 
other  side  drifted  away. 

This  was  a  .serious  calamity,  for  we  had  no 
ilternative  now  but  to  remain  on  the  ship  so 
long  as  she  kept  afloat,  with  the  hope  of  some 
passing  vessel  setting  us  and  taking  us  off  before 
it  became  too  late. 

Hy  this  time  the  sun  had  set  and  night  was 
'  losing  in  upon  us.  As  the  hatches  were  well 
'•'  ured  wc  had  little  fear  that  the  ship  would 
not  kee()  afloat  till  morning,  so  most  of  the  crew 
gathered  on  the  weather  side  of  the  poop,  some 
('>  ^ileep,  while  others  kept  a  look-out  for  any 
vessel  which  might  chance  to  heave  in  sight. 

In  this  manner  we  passed  the  niglit,°and  as 


time  wore  on  it  became  evident  that  the  ship 
was  slowly  but  surely  settling  over  more  and 
getting  deeper  in  the  water.  The  wind  blew 
strong  and  the  sea  ran  high  throughout  the 
night,  but  as  morning  dawned  the  gale  began  to 
moderate. 

No  vessel  had  passed  us  during  the  night  nor 
was  there  anything  in  sight  at  daybreak,  and  to 
add  to  our  troubles  we  discovered  that  a  spare 
spar  which  had  been  lashed  on  the  starboard 
side  of  the  deck  had  broken  adrift  during  the 
night  from  some  of  its  lashings  and  was  now 
floating  and  chafing  against  the  main  hatches. 
It  had  already  worn  the  tarpaulins  off,  and  the 
water  was  steadily  pouring  into  the  hold.  The 
forward  end  of  the  spar  was  still  fast  in  the  lash- 
ings, which  were  well  under  water  and  could  not 
be  got  at  to  cast  adrift. 

As  this  was  hastening  matters  rather  quicker 
than  was  desirable,  we  set  to  work  to  get  a  sail 
lashed  over  the  hatches,  and  so  prevent  the 
water  running  in.  We  succeeded,  after  re- 
peated attempts  and  failures,  for  the  ship  was 
now  practically  on  her  beam  ends,  her  decks 
nearly  at  right  angles  with  the  water  ;  and  as 
the  men  seemed  to  have  lost  all  heart  for  doing 
anything,  the  second  mate  and  myself  had  per- 
force to  do  it,  the  carpenter  and  one  of  the 
apprentices  lowering  us  down  into  the  water 
with  ropes  around  our  bodies.  We  knew  that 
the  sail  could  not  keep  the  hatches  watertight, 
but  it  served  as  a  temporary  check  upon  the 
water.  The  certainty  of  the  ship  going  down 
under  our  feet  became  merely  a  question  of  time, 
and,  so  far  as  we  could  judge,  a  very  short  time. 

The  majority  of  the  crew  had  by  now 
apparently  given  up  all  hopes  of  ever  being 
saved,  and  sat  around  in  gloomy  silence,  some 
smoking  their  pipes,  while  others  seemed  not  to 
have  even  enough  inclination  or  energy  for  that. 

It  was  decided  that  we  must  devise  some 
means  for  keeping  ourselves  afloat  when  the 
ship  went  down,  and  naturally  the  idea  of  a  raft 
suggested  itself. 

I5ut  to  construct  a  good  serviceable  raft,  even 
with  every  requisite  at  hand,  is  not  such  an  easy 
undertaking  as  it  would  appear  to  be  when 
reading  of  it ;  and  an  old  sailing  vessel,  rolling 
on  her  beam  ends  in  mid-ocean,  would  hardly 
recommend  itself  as  the  most  desirable  place 
for  such  a  [)iece  of  work.  Nor  does  she,  as  a 
rule,  happen  to  he  supplied  with'  just  the 
materials  one  would  like  to  have  for  the  purpose, 
not  to  mention  the  uncertainty  of  the  time  at 
one's  disposal. 

Something  of  the  .sort  had  to  be  done,  how- 
ever, and  the  captain,  second  mate,  and  myself, 
sitting  out  on  the  ship's  side,  held  a  short  con- 
sultation, and  soon  decided  upon  what  we  could 


ADRIl'  r  ON   A    RAl  r. 


303 


■  WR   EXPLAINED   OUR    I'LANS   TO   THEMKN. 


see  was  the  only  course  open  to  us.  We 
explained  our  plans  to  the  men,  but  only  two  of 
them,  with  one  apprentice  and  the  carpenter, 
consented  to  have  any  hand  in  the  matter.  We 
seven  commenced  work  at  once,  knowing  that 
we  had  no  time  to  lose. 

In  the  first  place,  we  required  for  our  purpose 
some  stout  spars,  and  there  were  but  two  which 
we  could  by  any  possible  means  handle.  ■  These 
were  the  main  royal  yard,  which  had  been  sent 
down  in  port  and  was  now  standing  on  end, 
lashed  abaft  the  mainmast,  and  the  spanker 
boom,  which  was,  of  course,  still  shipped  in  its 
proper  place  on  the  mizzen.  We  made  a  start 
with  the  royal  yard,  a  pitch-pine  spar  about 
thirty-six  feet  long. 

Bearing  in  mind   the  position  in  which  the 


ship  was  lying,  her  port 
side  being  now  hori- 
zontal, or,  in  other 
words,  in  the  position 
where  under  ordinary 
circumstances  the 
deck  would  be,  some 
idea  may  be  formed  of 
the  difficulties  we  had 
to  contend  with.  We 
succeeded  at  length  in 
getting  the  yard  up  on 
to  the  ship's  side,  and 
then  dragged  it  aft  to 
a  position  abreast  of 
the  mizzen  -  mast, 
where  we  secured  it 
temporarily,  and  then 
proceeded  to  get  the 
spanker  boom  un- 
shipped. Handling 
the  yard  had  proved 
a  difficult  task,  but 
the  boom  proved  even 
more  difficult  still 
W^e  saw  at  once  that 
we  could  not  attempt 
to  handle  it  without 
first  cutting  it  in  two, 
'  and,  as  we  should 
have  had  to  cut  it  in 
any  case  to  form  our 
raft,  we  decided  to  do 
so  just  where  it  hung, 
before  attempting  to 
unship  it.  And  here 
I  may  mention  that 
the  only  tools  which  the  car- 
penter had  managed  to  save 
were  a  small  saw,  an  adze,  hammer, 
"  auger,  and  some  nails.    Having  sawn 

the  boom  in  two  we  succeeded  in 
getting  it,  one-half  at  a  time,  up  on  to  the  ship's 
side  alongside  the  royal  yard.  We  then  arranged 
the  three  spars  in  the  form  of  a  triangle,  allowing 
the  ends  to  extend  well  over  each  other.  The 
carpenter  then  bored  holes  right  through  the 
two  spars  at  each  angle.  Through  these  holes 
we  drove  marling-spikes,  thus  bolting  the  spars 
pretty  solidly  together.  Around  the  ends  we 
also  passed  strong  rope  lashings. 

Having  thus  formed  a  good  framework  for  our 
raft,  we  next  proceeded  to  collect  everything 
we  could  find  in  the  shape  of  light  woodwork, 
such  as  gratings,  doors,  planks,  handspikes, 
etc.,  and  these  we  lashed  or  nailed  on  to  the 
spars  ;  we  also  stepped  two  small  spars  for 
masts. 

The  main  portion  of  the  raft  being  thus  com- 


304 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


pleted  we  next  fitted  life-lines  right  around  it, 
similar  to  those  fitted  on  lifeboats,  for  from  the 
beginnmg  we  were  aware  that  it  would  not  be 
capable  of  floatmg  with  nineteen  people  on 
it,  so  that  our  only  alternative  was  to  take  to 
the  water  and  hold  on  to  the  life  lines  around 
the  sides. 

Our  next  consideration  was  that  of  provisions. 
Of  these,  fortunately,  we  had  an  abundance,  our 
store-room  being  on  the  port  side  of  the  cabin 
and  still  clear  of  the  water.  About  this  time 
the  twelve  men  who  had  sat  idly  by  whilst  the 
other  seven  laboured  hard  for  hours  now  began 
to  show  some  signs  of  interest  in  our  work,  and 
assisted  in  passing  biscuits,  tinned  meats,  soups, 
etc.,  up  from  the  store-room.  These,  with  a 
small  cask  of  fresh  water,  were  secured  upon 
the  raft ;  also  a 
boat's  compass, 
boat's  sails,  a 
box  of  rockets 
and  blue  lights, 
a  foghorn,  a 
small  axe,  and 
two  lifebuoys. 

The  raft  now 
being  ready  to 
put  into  the 
water  we  draj^ 
ged  it  across  the 
side  towards  tlie 
bottom  of  tile 
shi[),  where  it 
was  a  very  eas)' 
matter  to  slide 
it  over  the  bilg( 
into  the  water, 
the  ship  in  the 
meantime  hav 
ing  settled  well 
down.  A  ro|)e 
kept  the  raft 
close  to  the  ship, 
and  then  one  b\ 
one  the  crew, 
consisting  (jf 
nineteen  hands 
all  told,  j)iii  on 
lifebelts  and 
lowered  them- 
selves into  the 
water  and  laid 
hold  of  the  life- 
lines around  the  raft. 

All  having  left  the 
ship,  the  rope  was  cut 
and  the  vessel  drifted 
away  from  us,  the  wind 
and  sea  havin"  more  "  thev  shouted  and  fought 

°  ON    THE   RAFT." 


effect  upon  her  than  on  the  raft,  which  lay 
heavily  upon  the  water,  and  the  sea,  which  was 
still  high  and  rougli,  breaking  right  over  us.  It 
was  three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  when  we  cut 
adrift  from  the  ship,  and  the  weather  was  steadily 
improving,  though  there  was  still  a  strong  wind 
blowing  from  the  southward  and  the  water  was 
intensely  cold. 

All  went  well  for  a  while,  and  we  endeavoured 
to  propel  the  raft  in  the  direction  of  the  land, 
but  wave  after  wave  broke  over  us,  and  finding 
themselves  with  only  a  lifebelt  between  them  and 
death,  as  it  were,  a  feeling  of  panic-stricken  despair 
seemed  to  take  possession  of  most  of  the  men. 

They  shouted  and  fought  for  places  on  the 
raft,  climbing  on  to  it  and  causing  it  to  sink  to 
one  side  or  the    other.      In    this    way    all    our 


FOR   PLACES 


ADRIFT    ON    A    RAFT. 


305 


provisions  and  most  of  the  other  things  were 
either  knocked  off  or  washed  away.  This 
lamentable  state  of  things  continued  in  spite  of 
all  efforts  on  the  officers'  part  to  induce  the 
m.en  to  keep  cool.  Five  of  them,  thinking 
they  would  be  safer  on  the  ship,  bad  as  was 
her  plight,  left  the  raft  to  swim  to  her.  As 
the  ship  was  now  some  considerable  distance 
away  from  us  only  one  of  them  succeeded  in 
reaching  her,  and  he,  I  believe,  went  down  with 
her,  for  she  disap[)eared  below  the  surface  about 
an  hour  afterwards.  The  others  turned  back, 
but  only  one  reached  the  raft;  the  remaining 
three  succumbed  on  the  way. 

As  the  sun  sank  below  the  horizon  and  night 
closed  in  upon  us  our  condition  seemed  hope- 
less indeed.  Some  three  or  four  of  the  older 
and  weaker  hands  had  already  fallen  away  from 
exhaustion,  for  the  repeated  mad  attempts  of  the 
men  to  board  the  raft  soon  tired  them  out, 
besides  making  matters  so  much  harder  for 
those  who  were  at  all  inclined  to  keep  cool- 
headed.  In  fact,  the  state  of  things  seemed  so 
utterly  desperate  and  hopeless  at  one  time  that 
the  second  mate  and  myself  thought  of  leaving 
the  raft  altogether,  and  striking  out  in  a  wild 
attempt  to  reach  the  land.  This,  however,  we 
thought  better  of  when  we  considered  the  dis- 
tance, which  could  not  have  been  less  than 
eighteen  or  twenty  miles.  As  I  could  not  swim 
I  had  to  trust  entirely  to  my  lifebelt ;  and  even 
had  we  succeeded  in  getting  close  in  shore — a 
rather  doubtful  question  at  best — we  should 
have  been  too  much  exhausted  to  hope  to  live 
through  the  tremendously  heavy  sea  which  we 
knew  must  be  breaking  all  along  the  bleak, 
rocky  coast. 

So  we  remained  by  the  raft,  which  was  our 
only  hope,  and  lived  through  a  night  the  memory 
of  which  will  not  easily  be  forgotten. 

It  was  beautifully  fine  except  for  the  bitterly 
cold  wind,  and  the  sky  was  cloudless.  The 
moon,  nearly  at  the  full,  shone  clear  and  bright, 
so  that  we  could  plainly  see  each  other.  As  the 
long,  dreary  hours  wore  .slowly  away  our  number 
kept  getting  gradually  less,  as  one  by  one  the 
j)oor  fellows,  worn  out  and  exhausted,  released 
their  grasp  on  the  life-lines  and  floated  away, 
their  lifebelts  temporarily  preventing  them  from 
sinking.  Some  of  tiiem,  before  finally  giving  up 
the  struggle,  seemed  to  entirely  lose  their  senses 
and,  becoming  greatly  excited,  raved  and  shouted 
wildly,  while  others  held  on  to  the  last  with  a 
sailor's  instinct,  but  gradually  losing  their  hold 
fell  away  with  scarcely  a  murmur. 

And  thus  the   hours  dragged  out  their  weary 

length,  till  it  seemed  as  though  that  awful  night 

were    endless  and  that  the  dawn  would  never 

come.     We   who   remained   could   do    nothing 
Vol.  xi.— 39. 


but  hold  on,  cramped,  cold,  and  miserable,  not 
knowing  how  soon  we,  too,  would  have  to  follow 
those  already  gone. 

It  was  about  three  o'clock  in  the  morning, 
as  near  as  I  could  judge,  when  the  last  man 
dropped  off,  making  a  total  of  sixteen  who  had 
succumbed  during  those  twelve  dreadful  hours, 
from  the  apprentice  of  seventeen  to  the  old  sail- 
maker  of  seventy-four. 

There  were  now  but  three  of  us  remaining — 
the  carpenter,  the  second  mate,  and  myself. 
We  therefore  thought  we  might  venture  to  get 
on  to  the  raft  and  see  if  it  would  bear  us.  This 
we  did,  but  found  it  necessary  to  keep  in  certain 
positions  upon  it,  as  the  least  extra  weight  on 
one  side  or  the  other  caused  it  to  tip  over. 

Between  the  two  small  masts  we  spread  a 
boat  sail,  standing  under  the  lee  of  it  to  try  and 
find  some  shelter  from  the  bitterly  cold  wind 
that  pierced  through  our  wet  clothes,  chilling  us 
to  the  very  marrow. 

Three  more  forlorn-looking  objects  it  would 
have  been  hard  to  find  as  we  stood  there  looking 
anxiously  for  daybreak,  while  the  raft  rose  and 
fell  heavily  on  the  swell,  bringing  the  water  as 
high  as  our  knees,  so  that  sitting  down  was 
altogether  out  of  the  question.  We  suffered 
agonies  from  cramp,  and  we  longed  for  the  sun 
to  shine  out  brightly  to  warm  our  famishing 
bodies.  But  in  this  we  were  disappointed,  for 
the  morning  dawned  gloomy  and  overcast,  with 
a  thick  damp  haze  all  around  the  horizon,  so 
that  we  could  not  see  any  great  distance.  As 
the  daylight  increased  we  looked  anxiously 
around  with  tlie  hope  of  seeing  some  passing 
vessel,  but  there  was  nothing  in  sight  :  we  were 
utterly  alone  on  the  cold,  dreary  waste  of  waters. 
Our  only  hope,  therefore,  was  to  try  and  propel 
the  raft  towards  the  land.  But  here  a  difficulty 
arose,  for  we  had  no  means  of  telling  in  what 
direction  the  land  lay.  We  had  had  no  sight 
of  the  sun,  which  would  have  been  a  good 
guide  to  us;  and  the  small  boat's  compass,  which, 
strange  to  say,  had  not  been  washed  away  during 
the  night,  proved  absolutely  worthless.  We 
found  it  utterly  impossible  to  steady  it,  owing 
to  the  manner  in  which  the  raft  was  pitching 
and  knocking  about. 

Concluding,  therefore,  that  the  wind  was  still 
S.S.W.,  or  thereabout,  we  decided  to  shape  a 
course  by  it,  and  with  this  object  in  view  wt 
trimmed  the  boat  -  sail  upon  the  masts  and 
headed  the  raft  as  nearly  as  we  could  calculate 
towards  the  land,  dividing  our  weight  so  as  to 
keep  the  raft  level.  In  this  manner  we  drifted 
along  very,  very  slowly. 

About  this  time  we  all  began  to  feel  the 
cravings  of  hunger,  having  had  nothing  to  eat 
since  early  the  previous  day.     Thirst,  however, 


3o6 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


did  not  trouble  us,  owing,  I  suppose,  to  the  fact 
of  our  bodies  being  in  the  water  all  the  time. 
As  may  easily  be  imagined  we  were  all  three 
beginning  to  feel  the  effects  of  our  long 
exposure,  for  it  must  be  remembered  that 
during  our  last  night  on  the  ship  we  had  had  no 
proper  rest,  and  all  the  next  day  we  had  worked 
hard,  so  that  we  were  not  in  what  one  might 
call  the  very  best  condition  to  face  the  hardships 
through  which  we  had  passed.  The  second 
mate,  a  hardy  young  native  of  Islay,  seemed  to 
have  no  end  of  staying  power,  and  I  felt  a  long 
way  yet  from  being  beaten.  The  carpenter, 
however,  though  only  a  young  man,  began  to 
-how  signs  of  giving  up  the  struggle.  He  sat 
down  on  the  raft,  saying  it  was  no  use  trying  to 
hold  out  any  longer,  as  he  was  completely  worn 
out. 

The  second  and  I,  however,  pooh-poohed  the 
idea,  telling  him  to  stand  up  and  keep  the  raft 
in  trim,  so  as  to  allow  us  to  make  as  much 
headway  as  possible.  Pulling  himself  together, 
he  got  u[)on  his  feet  again,  and  before  very  long 
ho  sang  out  joyfully,  "  There's  the  land  !  " 


HB   SANG   OUT   JOVKULLV,    '   rHEKK!s    Till      I  ANd!'" 


"  Where  ? "  we  asked  ;  and  he  pointed  in 
what,  according  to  our  calculations,  would  be  a 
north-westerly  direction.  If  our  reckoning  was 
anything  near  right  there  certainly  could  be  no 
land  there.  Notwithstanding  this,  however,  we 
all  looked  eagerly  in  the  direction  indicated,  and 
again  the  carpenter  shouted,  "  There  it  is  !  "  but 
immediately  correcting  himself  said,  "  It's  a 
steamer's  smoke."  True  enough  it  was,  for  as 
we  rose  again  on  the  swell  we  all  three  saw  it, 
though  it  was  a  long  way  off — just  a  faint  cloud 
of  smoke  coming  slowly  out  of  the  haze  on  the 
horizon. 

Here  at  last,  we  thought,  was  a  possibility  of 
rescue,  so  we  immediately  set  about  contriving 
some  means  to  attract  the  attention  of  those  on 
board  the  steamer. 

Casting  the  lashings  off  a  handspike  on  the 
raft,  we  fastened  on  to  it  two  handkerchiefs,  one 
of  which  I  had  had  around  my  head  ;  the  other 
the  carpenter  had  been  wearing  around  his  neck. 
McCleod,  the  second  mate,  being  the  tallest 
man  of  the  party,  stood  up  and  waved  these 
aloft,  whilst  the  carpenter  and  I  .sat  down  and 

held  on  to  him  to  keep 
him  steady,  it  being  im- 
[)OSsible  to  stand  upright 
on  the  raft  without  some 
support,  as  it  rolled  fear- 
fully on  the  swell. 

Meanwhile  our  hearts 
were  gladdened  by  the 
fact  that  the  steamer,  now 
plainly  visible,  was  cer- 
tainly coming  in  our  direc- 
tion, though,  from  the  way 
she  was  heading,  it  was 
evident  that  she  would 
pass  quite  a  considerable 
distance  off  from  us.  We 
shouted  with  all  our  might 
and  blew  our  small  whis- 
tles, though  it  was  a  matter 
of  im[)ossibility  for  either 
sound  to  carry  such  a 
long  distance. 

The  steamer  came 
steadily  on,  never  altering 
her  course  or  making  the 
least  sign  that  anybody  on 
board  had  yet  seen  us. 
We  waved  our  signal  and 
shouted  ourselves  hoarse, 
but  all  apparently  to  no 
purpose.  When  she  was 
about  four  miles  away  from 
us  she  still  held  steadily 
on  her  course,  and  it 
seemed    as    though    she 


ADKIIT    U\     A     RAIT 


307 


THE    RAFT    BEING   TOWED   ALONGSIDE    THE     "  CACHAPOAL  "    AFTER    THE 

From  a\     author  and  his  companions  had  hken  rescued.      [P/ioto. 


would  pass  without 
seeing  us.  The  su.s- 
pense  of  those  few 
minutes  was  agoniz- 
ing. Would  she  see 
us  ?  At  last  she  was 
abreast  of  us,  and  then 
she  passed  by.  Now, 
for  the  first  time,  I 
experienced  a  feeling 
something  akin  to 
despair. 

Not  so,  however, 
the  second  mate. 
"  They  must  see  us  !  " 
he  cried.  "  Whatever 
is  the  officer  on  that 
bridge  thinking 
about  ?  "  Still  we 
frantically  waved  our 
signal,  shouting  and 
yelling  madly.  How 
hungrily  we  watched  for  the  least  sign  that  we 
had  been  seen  can  only  be  adeciuately  realized 
by  those  who  have  had  the  misfortune  to  be  in 
a  similar  strait. 

At  length  we  noticed  a  white  cloud  of  steam 
streaming  away  from  the 
fore  side  of  the  steamer's 
funnel,  and  presently  the 
hoarse,  welcome  sound 
of  her  whistle  was  borne 
over  the  waters  to  our 
anxious  ears.  The 
steamer  at  the  same  time 
altered  her  course  and 
steered  right  towards  the 
raft.     \\' e  were  saved  ! 

What  a  magnificent 
sight  she  was  as  she  bore 
down  upon  us  !  When 
within  a  safe  distance  of 
the  raft  she  stopped,  and 
a  boat  was  quickly  low- 
ered and  came  speeding 
towards  us,  propelled  by 
strong,  willing  arms.  In 
a  very  short  space  of  time 
we  found  ourselves  walk- 
ing a  ship's  firm  deck 
once  more,  though  the 
feat,  by  the  way,  was 
rather  more  than  our 
wearied  limbs  were  equal 
to,  the  soles  of  our  feet 
being  quite  sore  and 
tender.  Needless  to  say 
we  received  every  care 
and  attention  from  those 


the   THKKE    survivors — THE   AUTHOR,    MK.   H.  A.    HAMILTON,   IS 

From  a  Photo,  by}      on  the  left.         \Leblanc,  Santiago. 


on  board  the  steamer, 
which  {)roved  to  be 
the  Cachapoa/,  of  Val- 
paraiso, commanded 
by  Captain  H.  W. 
Sorensen,  and  bound 
to  Valparaiso. 

The  boat  returned 
to  the  raft,  and  taking 
it  in  tow  brought  it 
alongside  the  steamer, 
where  it  was  hoisted 
on  board.  The  photo- 
graph of  our  little 
craft  here  reproduced 
was  taken  by  a  pas- 
senger on  board  the 
steamer  as  the  boat 
came  alongside. 

It  was  eight  o'clock 
on  Tuesday  morning 
when  we  were  taken 
off  the  raft  ;  we  had,  therefore,  been  seventeen 
hours  in  the  water.  On  our  arrival  in  Valparaiso 
on  the  evening  of  the  same  day,  in  answer  to 
the  steamer's  signal,  the  surgeon  of  the  Chilian 
warship  Esmeralda   came  on  board   to  see  us. 

The  carpenter,  who  had 
been  feverish  and  deliii- 
ous  for  some  time,  was 
taken  ashore  to  hospital 
at  once,  but  the  second 
mate  and  myself,  he  said, 
simply  required  a  day  or 
two's  rest.  Next  day  we 
experienced  considerable 
difficulty  in  walking,  our 
feet  being  very  sore,  and 
a  day  or  two  afterwards 
the  second  mate  also  had 
to  go  into  the  hospital, 
as  his  face  broke  out  in 
large  blisters.  I  was  for- 
tunate enough  to  be  able 
to  get  along  without  the 
aid  of  the  doctors,  my 
only  trouble,  besides  the 
soreness  of  my  feet,  being 
a  stiffness  of  the  left  hip. 
Some  little  time  after 
our  return  to  England  I 
was  pleased  to  learn  that 
I  he  Board  of  Trade  had 
presented  Captain  Soren- 
sen with  a  pair  of  bino- 
culars, suitably  in.scribed, 
in  recognition  of  his  kind 
services  to  us  when 
"Adrift  on  a  Raft." 


Odds   and    Ends. 


The  Great  Bore  at  Hangchow — A  Fence  of  Elk  Horns — The  "  Dragon  Festival  "  at  Shanghai- 
The  "Whale-headed  Stork  " -A  Bush  Letter-Box,  etc.,  etc. 


X'ERYBODY  has  heard  of  tidal 
bores,  those  curious  waves  which 
ascend  certain  rivers  and  estuaries, 
but  very  few  people  know  where  the 
greatest  bore  in  the  world  is  to  be 
found.  'Ihis  is  at  Hangchow,  in  the  north-east 
of  China.  The  great  flood  -  tides  from  the 
Pacific,  surging  into  the  funnel-shaped  mouth 
of  Hangchow  Bay,  are  broken  up  by  the  bars 


I'rom  a\ 


THE   TSIEN-TANG    RIVEK    BEFOKE   THE   COMING    OF    THE    BORE. 


appears  on  the  water,  the  line  of  foam  grows 
wider  and  wider,  and  then  suddenly  there  heaves 
into  sight  what  looks  like  a  gigantic  mass  of 
dirty  snow,  swept  forward  at  terrific  speed  by  a 
sheet  of  stormy  black  water  behind  it.  The 
roar  of  the  water  is  deafening,  and  the  sight  of 
that  awful  moving  wall  of  water,  swirling  and 
eddying  tumultuously,  is  one  never  to  be  for- 
gotten.     Woe    betide    the    hajUess    craft   that 

happens  to  be  struck  by 
that  fearful  flood,  for  it 
has  no  earthly  chance  of 
escape — it  is  simply  over- 
whelmed. People  who 
have  witnessed  the  passing 
of  this  bore  say  that  it  is 
undoubtedly  one  of  ihc 
most  sensational  pheno- 
mena in  the  world.  The 
first  snap-shot  shows  the 
river  before  the  coming 
of  the  bore,  while  the 
second  shows  tlic  great 
wave  sweei)ing  up  the 
stream,  transforming  its 
placid  bosom  into  a 
raging  sea. 


{Photo. 


and  sand  -  flats  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Tsien-Tang 
River,  the  swilt  current 
of  which  further  assists 
in  holding  back  the  tide. 
Finally,  however,  the 
ocean  waters  force  their 
way  through,  rushing  up 
the  river  in  an  immense, 
roaring  wave  from  loft.  to 
2oft.  high,  and  three  miles 
from  end  to  end.  The 
first  warning  of  the  coming 
of  the  bore  is  a  distant 
roar.  Then,  far  away,  a 
thread    of   white    foam 


THE  AHKIVAL  OF    THE   BORE 
J'rom  a\ 


AN     IMMENSE,    ROARING    WAVE    FROM    TEN    TO   TWENTY   FEET    HIGH 
AND   THREE   MILES    FROM    END   TO   END."  [P/lotO. 


ODDS    AND    ENDS. 


309 


^Sato>».. 


li^f^! 


^^."W?**?^,;?^ 


i^i^ 


-r:rr-'^****w 


^^"^^jMi- 


rt     I-  K.NL-K    *lh 


From  a  Photo. 


N     IHK    VKl.i  OWS  I  IJNK    NAIIONAI.    I'AK'I 

by  Frank  Ycigh,    Toronto. 


In  that  American  wonderland,  the  Yellow- 
stone National  Park,  there  is  to  be  seen  a 
most  remarkable  fence,  a  photograph  of  which 
is  here  given.  This  fence  is  constructed  en- 
tirely of  elk  horns.  These  trophies  do  not 
come  from  animals  which  have  fallen  victims  to 


the  sportsman's 
manner  which 
does  not  involve 
the  sacr  i  f  ice 
of  life.  Great 
herds  of  elk  are 
among  the 
animal  inhabi- 
tants of  the 
park  —  where 
game  is  strictly 
protected  —  and 
these  "cast" 
their  long 
antlers  once 
a  year.  'J  h  c 
horns  are  then 
collected  and 
put  to  the  prac 
tical  and,  withal, 
picturesque  use 
shown  in  tin 
illustration. 

The  fifth  day 
of  the  fifth  moon 
is  observed  all 
over  Chi  na  as 
the   "Dragon 


Fes  t  i  Va  1 ."       All  From  a\ 


gun,    but    are   obtained    in    a 


the  boats  are 
gaily  decorated 
with  gaudy- 
coloured  cloths 
and  paper  and 
i  n  n  u  m  er a ble 
lamps  and  ban- 
ners. They  are 
also  got  up  to 
resemble  dra- 
gons as  far  as 
possible.  Each 
boat  is  filled 
with  men,  who 
propel  it  by 
means  of  pad- 
dles, shouting 
and  beating 
gongs  mean- 
while. This 
performance  is 
supposed  to 
propitiate  the 
Water  Ood,  and 
lasts  for  three  days,  during  which  crowds  of 
natives  flock  into  the  towns  from  all  parts 
and  view  the  Dragon  Boats  from  the  river 
banks  and  bridges.  At  night  the  crews  of 
the  boats  are  feasted  by  the  wealthier  natives. 
Our  photograph  shows  two  typical  Dragon 
Boats  at  Shanghai. 


IHK    "  l>KA(;i)N    festival"    A  I     SIIAM.IIAI. 


[J'/iolo. 


;io 


THE    wmi-     WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


Below  is  a  photograph  of  a 
"Highbinder's"  chain-mail  coat. 
A  secret  society  of  Chinamen 
under  this  title  exists  in  the 
western  part  of  the  United 
States,  and  its  members  have 
committed  many  crimes.  Many 
of  them  wear  coats  of  mail  like 
that  shown  in  the  photograph. 
'I'hese  are  made  from  steel  rings 
woven  together  on  thick  cloth, 
forming  a  sleeveless  jacket. 
'I'he  edges  are  made  of  web- 
bing and  contain  buttons  and 
button-holes  for  fastening  the 
garments.  The  coat  shown  in 
the  photograph  was  found  upon 
a  dead  "  Highbinder  "  after  a 
desperate  fight  between  several 
members  of  the  society  and  a 
sheriffs  posse  in  Wyoming. 
iSeside  his  body  were  a  number 


Fro  III  a\ 


A    FRE.N'CH-CANADIAN    HKEAD-OVEN. 


{Photo. 


CIIAIN-MAII.   CfiAT. 
a    I'lloto, 


of  large  revolver  bullets,  which  had  struck  the 
armour  and  glanced  off  without  harming  him. 
He  was  eventually  killed,  however,  by  a  shot 
through  the  head. 

The  P>ench- Canadians  are  the  most  con- 
servative of  people,  but  even  they  cannot 
resist  the  rapid  onward  march  of  progress, 
and,  as  a  natural  result,  many  of  their  old 
habits  and  customs  are  dying  out  to  give 
place  to  more  modern  ideas.  Ten  years  ago 
the  scene  depicted  in  the  above  photo,  was  a 
fairly  common  one:  to-day  it  is  rarely  seen. 
The  illustration  represents  a  French-Canadian 
woman  in  her  sun-bonnet  preparing  a  huge 
batch  of  bread  in  an  open-air  clay  oven.  The 
sole  reason  for  having  the  oven  outside  is  that 
when  you  have  bread  to  bake  for  a  family  of 
twenty  or  thirty— quite  a  common  number 
among  these  people— the  oven  required  is  of 
such  dimensions  as  to  appear  rather  out  of 
place  in  a  small  shingle-roofed  cottage. 

The  curious  photograph  which  is  given  at 
llie  top  of  the  following  page  shows  two 
specimens  of  an  extremely  rare  bird  —  the 
"  whale-headed  stork."  These  remarkable  birds 
^re  only  to  be  found  in  the  Bahr-el-Cha/.al, 
sf)me  200  miles  south  of  Fashoda.  Their  chief 
peculiarity  lies  in  their  jiowerful  beaks,  which 
are  of  an  inmiense  size,  and  resemble  tortoise- 
shell  in  a|)pearance.  'J"he  storks  live  entirely 
on  fi.sh,  often  killing  one  a  pound  in  weight. 
Only  three  living  specimens  are  now  in  captivity, 
and  all  these  are  at  Khartoum,  and  only  two 
skins  are  believed  to  exist  in  the  world.  Our 
photograi^h  was  taken  on  the  Upper  Nile  by  a 
captain  in  the  Royal  Army   Medical  Corps,  and 


ODDS    AND    KXDS. 


1 1 


The  pliotograph  next  depicted  was  taken 
in  an  out-of-the-way  district  in  the  "  back 
blocks  "  of  Australia.  It  shows  a  primitive 
wayside  letter-box,  consisting  of  an  empty 
biscuit-tin  nailed  on  to  the  top  of  a  post. 
Letters  are  placed  in  the  open  tin  for 
collection  by  the  driver  of  the  mail  coach, 
wlio  puts  inside  any  letters  intended  for 
local  residents.  The  entire  arrangement 
is  quite  at  the  mercy  of  the  first  passer- 
by.    These,  however,  are  rare,   except  at 


AN    FXI  KK.M1;LV    ;;A1;E     I.IKD,    the    "whale-headed    STOKK  " ONLY    THKEE 

From  a]  living  specimens  are  now  in  captivity.  {I'lioto. 

shows  two  nearly  full-grown  storks.  These 
were  caught  by  natives  when  young,  before  they 
were  able  to  fly. 

The  traveller  along  the  great  high  roads  of 
Spain,  that  most  picturesque  of  countries, 
sees  at  times  some  curious  sights.  The  little 
snap-shot  given  below  might  be  taken  for  a 
representation  of  big  bushes,  but  really  shows 
nothing  more  than  two  donkeys  carrying  enor- 
mous loads  of  brushwood  from  the  moun- 
tains. At  Guada- 
lajara, near  which 
town  the  photo- 
graph was  taken, 
there  is  a  scarcity 
of  firewood,  which 
has  therefore  to  be 
brought  down  from 
the  mountains  in 
the  shape  of  brush- 
wood. The  loads 
are  amazingly  big, 
and  very  little  is  to 
be  seen  of  the 
donkeys,  but  for- 
tunately for  them 
the    wood    is    not 

DONKEYS    LOADED    WITH    BRUSHWOOD 

particularly  heavy.  /.•,.„,„  „  ,,,,^to. 


A   WAYSIDE   LETTER-BOX    IN   THE   AUSTRALIAN    BUSH  —  IT 
CONSISTS  OF   AN    EMPTY    BISCUIT-niN    NAILED   ON    THE 

From  a]  top  of  A  post.  [P/ioto. 


the  season  when 
the  wool  teams  are 
making  their  way 
to  the  coast,  and 
it  is  extremely 
seldom  that  this 
quaint  little  pillar- 
box  is  tampered 
with. 

The  two  pictures 
next  reproduced 
depict  in  a  most 
striking  manner  a 
\ast  plague  of 
locusts  which 
descended  upon 
the   Transvaal  last 


ON    A    SPANISH    ROAD. 


31^ 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


A    Fl.AGUK   OF    LOCUSTS    IN    THE   T  1;A.\SVAA1.    Mils    I'lloloCUAl'll    SIlulV.s    lllli   1NSEC1S    IN    THK    AIK. 


year.  The  first  photograph  shows  the  swarm 
just  settling  on  the  ground,  the  air  being  filled 
with  countless  millions  of  the  insects,  which 
look  from  a  distance  for  all  the  world  like  a 
great  red  cloud,  while  the  whirr  of  their  wings 
is  audible  for  a  considerable  way  off.  In  the 
second  picture  we  see  the  insects  on  the  ground 
engaged  in  their  work  of  destruction.  Woe 
betide   the   unfortunate  -farmer  on   whose  land 


these  terrible  scourges  aliglit  !  Not  a  blade  of 
grass,  not  an  ear  of  corn,  not  a  single  green 
thing  will  be  left,  and  preventive  measures  are 
practically  useless.  Locusts  leave  nothing 
behind  them  save  ruin  ;  and  when  they  visit 
the  native  plantations  starvation  often  follows 
for  the  unfortunate  cultivators.  An  idea  of  the 
size  of  these  pests  may  be  gained  from  the 
second  picture. 


fill-,   i.ntusis  (I.N   1III-:  (ifOUNU  i:n<.a<.i-;ii   in   mm;  wukk  oi-    dks  iijuci  ion 


I 


"  KI.OMAN    DROI'l'KI)    UTS    I'IKCK    AM>    IMlClli;!)    iOKWAkl).' 

(SEE  I'.vr;!-.  317.) 


The  Wide  World  Magazine. 


Vol.  XI. 


AUGUST,   1903. 


No.  64. 


The    Pursuit  of   Captain   Victor. 

13v  Skrokani'   Hakkv  (Ii.hnn,   U.S.   Marink  Corps. 


T 


I. 

The  story  of  the  American  campaign  against  the  Filipino  "  insurrectos  "  in  the  Island  of  Samar  is 
one  of  the  most  exciting  in  the  annals  of  modern  war.  Below  will  be  found  the  only  full  and 
authoritative  account  which  has  yet  been  published  of  one  of  the  most  striking  phases  of  this 
remarkable  campaign  the  hunting  down  of  the  cruel  and  wily  Filipino  outlaw  Captain  Victor, 
whom  both  Spanish  and  American  troops  had  sought  in  vain  to  capture.  The  story  is  written  by 
a  member  of  the  little  force  which,  after  enduring  terrible  privations  in   the  wilderness,  finally  captured 

the  "  Scourge  of  Samar,"  as  Captain  Victor  was  called. 

poisoned  arrows  and  spears,  wliich  he  set  along 
the  tangled  trails,  to  compass  the  death  of  the 
American  soldiers. 

The    Filipino  leader  established    for  himself 
such  a  reputation   that    every    Yankee   fighting 
man,   from  [)ri\ate  to  general  and  from  mari:i 
to  adm-'"'  to   bring   his  villainni"- 

career  to  an  end.  One  of'i:ci  sent  him  a 
message  to  the  ertect  that,  if  hands  could  !"■ 
laid  on  him,  Uc  need  not  expect  to  enjoy  the 
l)rivileges  usually   accorded   a  prisoner  of  war. 

Victor  responded  by  taking 
a  prominent  [)art  in  the  un- 
speakably horrible  massacre 
of  Balangiga,  under  the 
leadership  of  Eugenia  1  )aza. 
Balangiga  is  a  town  of 
two  thousand  inhabitants, 
l)uilt  on  a  le\el  stretch  of 
beach,  with  the  Pacific 
Ocean  in  front  and  dense, 
forest  covered  mountains  at 
the  back.  A  comjjany  of 
the  9th  Infantry,  under  the 
command  of  Captain  Con- 
nell,  was  ciuartered  there 
late  in  the  summer  of 
1 90 1 . 

Tlirough  the  treachery  of 
the  native  ohicials  of  lialan- 
giga,  who  professed  warm 
friendship,  the  little  garri- 
son, while  at  breakfast  on- 
the  morning  of  the  19th  of 
September,  was  surpri.sed 
and  butchered  with  the 
1  AM  iiAkuY  (li.ENN,  exception  of  thirteen  men. 

'^^u!isJ^PAi&uf./AAia.  Eleven  of  these  fought  their 


HE  name  of  Captain  Victor  was  on 
the  lips  of  every  native  in  the  Island 
of  Samar.  All — from  the  fishermen 
and  otificials  of  the  sea-coast  towns  to 
the  cultivators  of  the  rice-fields  and 
the  dwellers  in  the  little  clearings  of  the  interior 
— regarded  the  man  as  a  hero,  and  obeyed  him 
as  a  patriot  devoted  heart  and  soul  to  securing 
the  independence  of  his  country  from  the  hated 
American  rule.  Mingled  with  their  admiration, 
however,  there  was  a  strong  and  well-grounded 
dread  of  incurring  his  anger 
and  of  bringing  down  on 
them  his  relentless  ven- 
geance. Ca|)tain  Victor  was 
the  leader  of  a  large  band 
of  "  ladrones,"  and  had 
been  given  practically  com- 
plete license  by  the  insur- 
gent (leneral,  Lucban. 

He  was  a  typical  Filipino, 
dark  of  skin,  tensely  and 
slimly  built,  and  posses.sed 
of  a  disposition  as  fero- 
ciously cruel,  a  spirit  as 
treacherous,  and  a  mind  as 
cunning  as  an  .\parhe 
Indian.  Victor  paid  no 
regard  whatever  to  the  rules 
of  civilized  warfare.  Me 
practised  the  atrocious  bar- 
barities of  the  most  savage 
nations,  and  employed 
others  of  Eiiipintj  origin 
and  equal  fiendishness. 
With  diabolical  ingenuity 
the  man  constructed  traps 
and    pitfalls    bristling    with 


Vol.  .xi.— 40. 


THE   AUI  IlliK,    M  I. 
U.-i.    MA 

l''ro>n  a  Photo,  by  F. 


3i6 


JIIE    WIDE    WORM)     MAC.AZINE. 


ELEVEN   Of    TIIKSP.    lOUOIIT    THEIK    WAY 
WITH    IIAKK    l-ISTS." 

way  with  hare  fists  across  a  s(jiiarc  filled  willi 
yelling  savages  to  the  huilding  where  two  com- 
rades were  defending  the  rifles  of  the  company. 
The  hodies  of  the  slain  American  soldiers  were 
Mintihiti-d  in  a  horrible  manner.  Captain  \'ictor, 
till'  lilipino  "  patriot,"  took  a  prominent  pari 
ill  the  day's  atro<:itit,s. 

We  of  the  ,. Marine  Cor()S  were  highly  elated 
when  orders  were  issued  which  assigned  us  the 
duty  of  jumishing  the  treariierous  natives  of 
Samar  and  of  restoring  traiKiuillity  to  the 
islatul. 

We  were  even  more  delighted  when  it  was 
announced  that  Major  Littleton  W.  'J'.  Waller 
was  to  ( ommaiid  the  expedition.  It  was 
a«linilted,  in  all  l)ranches  of  the  service,  that  he 
was  exceptionally  well  (|ualificd  for  the  serious 
work  ahead,  and  that,  if  anyone  could  effectually 
.suppress  the  nuirderous  uprising  of  the  natives, 
it  was  he.  The  men  were  alway.s  eager  to 
follow  Major  Waller,  for  he  was  a  born 
fighter.  He  was  in  the  hottest  of  the  fighting 
in  the  campaign  in  ("hina,  and  during  the 
sanguinary  engagement  before  Tientsin  United 
States    Marines    and     Royal    Welsh     I'usiliers 


fouuhl  shouldLM-  to  shoulder  under  his  command 
against  the  fanatical  Chmese. 

Although  only  three  hundred  and  thirty  of 
us,  including  officers,  were  detailed  to  punish 
the  natives  of  Samar  and  compel  quiet  on  the 
island,  we  regarded  the  smallness  of  the  number 
as  a  compliment  to  the  Marine  Corps  and  the 
Major.  The  order  for  the  cami)aign  was  issued 
on  October  20th,  and  the  next  morning  at  nine 
o'clock  we  were  on  our  way  to  Samar.  Three 
days  later  we  were  at  work  in  earnest. 

Major  Waller  divided  his  command  into  two 
parts.  He  established  himself  in  the  town  of 
IJasey  with  a  hundred  and  fifty-eight  men  ;  and 
he  sent  Captain  Daniel  D.  Porter  with  a  hun- 
dred and  fifty-nine  men  to  Balangiga.  From 
the  moment  we  reached  the  scene  of  action  the 
l''ili|)inos  were  not  given  an  hour's  rest;  they 
were  kept  on  the  run  over  the  island,  with  us  in 
full  cry  at  their  heels.  Major  Waller  had  made 
the  curious  discovery  that  the  natives  were,  to 
some  extent,  like  American  crows  in  the  matter 
of  counting.  Two  seemed  to  be  their  limit  in 
affairs  military.  They  could  watch  and  guard 
against    one    or    two     detachments    operating 


THE     PURSUIT    ()I     CAP  IAIN     VICTOR. 


317 


against  them  at  one  time  ;  but  they  became 
bewildered  when  three  were  set  against  them 
simultaneously.  So  every  morning  three  parties 
would  leave  Palangiga,  while  the  same  number 
went  from  Basey.  Before  the  Pilipinos  could 
pull  themselves  together  we  were  upon  them. 
Many  were  killed  or  captured  in  the  engage- 
ments, and  we  destroyed  tons  of  their  supplies 
and  levelled  several  villages  which  were  hot- 
beds of  insurrection. 

Within   a  fortnight   the  country  as  far  as  the 
foot-hills    was    cleared    of  "  insurrectos."       We 
had    captured    many    prisoners,    and    a   large 
number  of  natives  came  in  voluntarily  and  took 
the  oath  of  allegiance.      But,  unfortunately,  we 
had  not  yet  been  able  to  lay 
our  hands  on  the  notorious 
Ca[)tain   Victor.      Nor,    for 
some  time,  could  we  learn 
of    his    whereabouts.       At 
length,     one     morning     a 
native     in     an     advanced 
stage  of  starvation   surren- 
dered himself  to  the  Major. 
His  clothing  was  in  tatters 
and  his  whole  a[)pearance 
denoted  abject  misery.    He 
gave  his  name  as  Francisco 
Taguilla  ;  and   he   said    he 
was  an  "  amigo,"'  or  friend 
of    the     Americans.       His 
was  a  pitiful  tale.     Because 
of    his    sympathy    for    the 
Americans    he    had    been 
seized    by  Captain   A'ictor, 
carried  into  captivity  in  the 
mountain    fastness    of    the 
rilipino  k-ader,  and  treated 
as  a   slave.     He   was    half 
starved,    for  he  was   given 
only  two  bananas  daily  for 
his  subsistence.     At  length 
he    made    his    escape     by 
lloating  and  swimming  down  the  river  to  Basey. 
He  offered  to  guide  us    to  the  stronghold   of 
Captain  Victor,    which,   he  said,   was   in  caves 
in    overhanging    cliffs    on    the    C'adigan    River. 
Taguilla's     story     was    soon    corroborated     in 
several  particulars  ;  his  services  were  accepted, 
and   he   was   enrolled   as  a   uuide,   after   which 
some  of  the  men  rechristened  him  "Smoke."' 

It  was  pitifully  strange  to  see  liow  the  very 
name  of  Captain  Victor  struck  terror  into  the 
heart  of  our  recruit.  He  trembled  and  grew 
pale,  his  knees  knocked  together,  and  his  power 
of  speech  deserted  him. 

The  stronghold  occupied  by  Captain  Victor 
and  his  band  was  popularly  supjjosed  to  be 
impregnable.      A   Spanish  army   had    marched 


.MAjou  i.i  ni.i-rioN  \v.  r.  \v.\ 

OK    THE    EXPEDITION  SEN T  T 

From  a\  natives 


against  it,  but  failed  to  capture  it  :  and  even  a 
regiment  of  American  soldiers  gave  up  the 
attempt  in  despair.  Judge  then  our  sensations 
when,  a  few  days  after  the  arrival  of  "  Smoke," 
Major  Waller  declared  that  he  expected,  with 
the  help  of  his  handful  of  marines,  to  reduce 
the  stronghold  !  For  a  few  seconds  we  looked 
at  each  other  in  silence,  then  we  let  out  a  yell 
of  satisfaction  that  woke  the  town.  For  days, 
while  raiding  the  native  shacks  of  the  jungles 
around  Basey  and  Balangiga,  we  had  been  find- 
ing mournful  relics  of  our  slaughtered  comrades 
of  the  Ninth,  and  we  were  burning  to  punish 
their  murderers. 

We  laughed  at  the  popular  belief  that  the 
stronghold  was  impreg- 
nable. Major  Waller  had 
said  we  were  going  to  cap- 
ture it ;  we  considered  the 
thing  as  good  as  done. 

^^'e  started  on  November 
6th,  going  uj)  the  Sojoton 
River  in  bancos,  or  native 
boats,  and  towing  a  raft  to 
which  the  guns  were  lashed. 
Progress  was  slow,  for  the 
Filipinos  had  fortified  both 
banks  with  earth  entrench- 
ments, in  which  were  rifle- 
men and  bamboo  cannon, 
and  a  heavy  fire  was  main- 
tained on  us  all  day  long. 
But,  although  the  bullets 
of  the  rifles  and  the  jagged 
bits  of  iron  from  the  cannon 
zipped  about  us,  no  damage 
was  done  until  the  after- 
noon, when  we  were  about 
eight  miles  up  the  river. 
Ahead  was  a  point  on 
which  were  planted  several 
bamboo  cannon,  reinforced 
by  a  small  party  of  l'ili[)ino 
riflemen.  As  our  boats  were  urged  forward  to 
the  assault  we  were  greeted  with  a  hot  fire. 
Kloman,  one  of  our  men,  who  had  just  raised 
his  rifle  and  was  about  to  press  the  trigger,  gave 
a  horrible  gurgling  cry,  dropped  his  piece  from 
his  nerveless  fingers,  and  pitched  forward.  A 
bullet  had  struck  him  in  the  face  and  passed 
out  at  the  back  of  his  head,  killing  him  instantly. 
A  few  miiuites  later  a  private  named  Lynch 
drop[)ed,  mortally  wounded.  These  were  our 
first  casualties  since  landing  on  Samar. 

It  took  us  ten  days  to  reach  the  stronghold  of 
Captain  Victor,  although  the  distance  was  only 
twenty  miles.  When  we  saw  it  we  did  not 
wonder  that  the  Spaniards  could  not  take  it  and 
the  American  infantry  gave  it  up  as  impossible. 


I.I  Ik,  WHO  UA-^  IN  COMMAND 
■<)  PUNISH  THE  TKEACIIEROUS 
OF   SAMAK.  [P/toto. 


3^8 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


No  man  without  wings  could  possibly  capture 
the  place  from  the  river.  The  stream  was 
barricaded  with  logs  secured  with  strands  of  the 
bajuca  vine.  The  cliffs,  which  rose  to  a  height 
of  from  two  hundred  to  two  hundred  and  fifty 
feet,  overhung  the  water.  They  were  honey- 
combed with  caves,  connected  with  each  other 
by  means  of  narrow  paths  along  the  face  of  the 
cliffs,  protected  by  bamboo  railings.  Long 
ladders,  set  against  the  rocky  wall,  afforded 
means  of  ascent  and 
descent  for  the  garri- 
son. Tons  of  rocks 
were  piled  in  strong 
wicker  baskets  at 
and  near  the  summit, 
held  in  position  by 
tough  vines,  so  that 
a  single  blow  from  a 
bolo  would  send  the 
boulders  crashing 
through  any  hostile 
boats  that  managed 
to  pass  the  barri- 
cades. Rifle  -  pits 
and  stone  and  earth 
works  were  placed 
at  all  commanding 
points,  and  numer- 
ous bamboo  cannon, 
with  some  brass 
pieces,  commanded 
the  approaches, 
(lamps  were  estab- 
lished on  both  sum- 
mits at  short  dis- 
tances apart.  Our 
scouts  reported  that 
the  cliffs,  extending 

ba<:k  from  the  right  bank,  rose  sheer  from 
plain  and  were  unconquerable. 

Major  Waller  sent  parties  ashore  to  hunt  for 
a  trail — which  "Sm(jke"  declared  existed — lead- 
ing to  the  summit  of  one  or  the  other  cliff  from 
the  lower  side.  The  Major  hin)self  commanded 
a  column  on  the  river,  with  the  purpose  of 
either  making  a  forlorn  hope  assault  from  that 
point  or  •'(  'ugaging  the  attention  of  the 
enemy. 

.After  three  days'  searching  we  found  the  trail. 
It  was  narrow,  crooked,  dangirous,  and  carefully 
hidden.  Deadly  pits,  filled  with  poisoned  s[)ears, 
were  set  in  the  path.  Whole  systems  of  bows 
with  poisoned  arrows,  connected  with  a  trigger, 
were  released  into  at.tion  if  anyone  tripjjed  over 
a  cord  hidden  in  the  gra.ss,  and  these  con- 
trivances lined  both  sides  of  the  track,  liut  we 
took  the  trail,  prodding  cautiously  for  the  traps 
and  i)ilfalls  as  we  proceeded.      Every  now  and 


wretch  had  fallen  into 


THE    EXI'EDITION    ENTERING   THE  CABIGAN    RIVER — CAI'TAIN    VICTORS 
STRONGHOLD    LIES    IL'ST    ROUND   THE    UEND   SEEN  IN  THE  PHOTOGRAPH. 


tht 


then  there  would  come  a  crash.  Two  bent  sap- 
lings, opposite  each  other,  would  shoot  upward 
and  a  pair  of  great  spears  would  come  together 
with  an  echoing  clash ;  or  with  a  purring  whirr 
a  flight  of  poisoned  arrows  would  dart  across 
the  path. 

Suddenly,  as  we  came  to  an  opening,  "Smoke  " 
gave  a  sharp  cry  and  disappeared  in  a  hole  in 
the   ground.      At    first    we    thought    the    poor 

a  trap  that  had  been 
overlooked.  The 
fear  was  only  momen- 
tary, however.  The 
hole  was  one  of  the 
numerous  fissures  in 
the  volcanic  rock  of 
the  neighbourhood, 
and,  as  we  bent  over 
it,  there  came  up, 
in  terror  -  stricken 
accents,  the  voice  of 
"  Smoke." 

"Look  out!  Look 
out!"  he  cried. 
"  Many  insurrectos 
on  the  hill !  " 

The  wary,  (juick- 
witted  guide  had 
leaped,  not  fallen, 
into  the  hole  to 
escape  what  he 
deemed  imminent 
death.  W'e  were 
about  to  laugh  when 
we  beheld  that  which 
hushed  merriment 
and  paled  our 
cheeks.  Over  the 
crest  of  tile  little  hill 
indicated  by  the  Fili[)ino  there  rose  two  or  three 
thin  curls  of  smoke  ;  and  pee[)ing  from  among 
the  leaves  were  the  small,  ugly  ijlack  mouths  of 
several  bamboo  cannon,  not  fifty  yards  away. 
We  were  face  to  face  with  death,  for  the  cannon, 
filled  with  iron  slugs  and  with  lighted  luses 
attached  to  them,  were  jioiiiled  directly  down 
the  trail  where  we  stood  bunched  together  ! 

Somehow  at  that  critical  moment  1  forgot 
the  trap.s,  the  automatic  spears,  and  the  poisoned 
arrows,  and  found  myself  rushing  madly  up  the 
hill.  Soon  I  was  tearing  the  spluttering  fu.ses 
from  the  cannon.  One  of  them  had  all  but 
burned  to  the  touch-hole,  and  in  aiu)lher  miinite 
would  have  been  discharged.  I  unloaded  the 
piece  and  found  it  contained  fifty-seven  jagged 
bits  of  iron.  If  it  had  exploded  there  would  not 
have  been  many  of  us  left  to  take  the  stronghold. 
Then  I  looked  about  me  and,  looking, 
drop[)ed    (juit  kly     l(j     the     ground.       Directly 


THE    PURSUIT    OF    CAPTAIN    VICTOR. 


319 


ahead,  and  only  a  few  hundred  yards  away,  was 
the  edge  of  the  cliff,  and  across  the  river  I 
could  see  a  camp  of  Filipinos.  As  quickly  as 
possible  I  rei)orted  my  discovery  to  the  captain, 
who  succeeded  in  getting  the  men  and  guns  to 
where  I  was,  without  being  detected.  Then  we 
opened  fire.  Instantly  there  were  terror  and 
consternation  in  the  camp  of  the  enemy.  The 
surprise  was  complete,  'i'hose  who  were  not 
killed  or  wcuinded  by  the  rain  of  shot  fled  as 
fast  as  their  legs  coukl  carry  them.  W'e  did 
not  remain  in  our  position  many  minutes,  but 
pushed  on,  and  presently  came  to  a  cleared 
space,  in  the  middle  of  which  stood  quite  a  large 
and  imposing  shack.  We  rushed  it,  whereupon 
the  occupants,  after  firing  a  feeble  volley,  fled. 
"Smoke,"  who  was  in  the  advance,  suddenly 
threw   up   his   hands    and    fell    forward    on   his 


over,  and  rose  to  a  sitting  position.  Then  the 
truth  dawned  upon  us.  "  Smoke  "  had  fainted 
from  excitement  and  terror. 

"  What's  the  matter  with  you,  '  Smoke  '  ?  " 
someone  a.sked,  as  soon  as  the  guide  seemed  to 
have  recovered  his  senses. 

"  Captain  Victor  ! "  cjuavered  he,  through 
chattering  teeth. 

"  Captain  Victor  !  Where  ?  " 
"  \Vhy,  here  !  This  is  his  house  ! " 
We  had,  indeed,  ca[)turcd  the  head-quarters  of 
the  notorious  Filipino  bandit.  In  the  shack  we 
found  his  private  papers  and  many  other  docu- 
ments which  clearly  proved  his  criminal  career 
and  his  connection  with  the  Balangiga  massacre. 
The  power  of  the  man  over  his  more  ignorant 
followers  was  strikingly  illustrated  in  the  abject 
terror  of  "  Smoke  "  and  of  other  friendly  natives 


'smoke'   suddenly     THKEW    VV    his    hands   and    KliLI.    I-OKWAKD. 


face.  He  lay  motionless,  but  he  was  the  only 
man  who  seemed  to  be  hit.  After  we  had 
taken  the  hut  some  of  us  went  back  for  poor 
"Smoke"  and  carried  him  tenderly  indoors. 
To  our  suri)rise,  however,  we  could  find  no 
trace  of  a  wound.  While  we  were  examining 
him  the  supposed  corpse  gave  a  groan,  turned 


whenever  his  name  was  mentioned— a  terror 
that  was  powerful  enough  to  cause  "  Smoke  "  to 
fall  into  a  swoon  when  he  recognised  the  hut 
as  the  head-quarters  of  his  erstwhile  master. 

We  had  come  upon  the  place  so  suddenly 
and  so  unexpectedly  that  the  occupants  left 
everything  behind  them  in  their  headlong  flight. 


320 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


Food  was  cooking,  and  everything  was  in 
readiness  for  the  evening  meal.  We  tarried 
only  a  few  minutes,  however,  and  then  pushed 
on,  for  while  the  summit  of  the  left  cliff  was 
now  ours,  the  right  had  yet  to  be  taken. 

We  hurried  to"  the  water's  edge.  A  corporal 
and  I  jumped  into  the  water  and  swam  to  the 
other  shore  to  secure  some  bancos,  or  native 
boats,  lying  there.  Bullets  struck  tlie  water  all 
around  us,  but  the  frightened  natives  could  not 
shoot  straight  and  we  were  not  hit.  The  rest 
of  our  men  crossed  and  scaled  the  bamboo 
ladders  to  the  caves,  drove  the  Filipinos  out  like 
rabbits,  and  chased  them  up  the  ladders  ahead 
of  them  to  the  summit.  It  was  a  burlescjue  of 
war  -or  would  have  been — but  for  the  sharp 
volcanic  rocks,  which  cut  our  shoes  to  bits  and 
wounded  our  feet  cruelly. 

In  half  an  hour  all  was  over.  The  bandit's 
stronghold,  which  had  taken  three  years  to 
build  and  was  supposed  to  be  impregnable,  had 
been  taken  by  fifty  marines  in  thirty  minutes  ! 

We  captured  fifty  bamboo  cannon,  two  brass 
pieces,  about  a  ton  of  powder,  projectiles  for 
bamboo*  guns,  large  numbers  of  bolos  and 
spears,  and  (juantities  of  tools  and  other  articles, 
which  were  unquestional)ly  part  of  the  loot  that 
had  been  obtained  at  the  massacre  of  Balangiga. 

Some  said  we  had  killed  two  hundred 
Filipinos  ;  others  placed  the  number  at  three 
hundred,  and  others  again  at  only  one  hundred, 
but  it  was  practically  impossible  to  assess  their 
casualties.  Much  to  our  disappointment,  how- 
ever, among  those  who  ran  away  fast  enough  to 
escapd  was  Captain  ^'ictor.  A  few  days  later 
we  learned  that  on  account  of  his  skill  iu  getting 
away  he  had  been  jiromoted  to  a  colonelcy. 

\Vitl)  the  downfall  ot  the  I'iiipino  stronghold 
and  the  capture  of  their  powder  magazines  and 
commissary  stcjres  the  way  was  clear  for  an 
cx|)edition  intcj  the  interior  of  Samar,  where  it 
was  supposed  bands  of  rebels — to  say  nothing 
of  the  amiable  Captain  Victor — were  hiding  in 
the  dej)lhs  of  the  mountain  forests.  It  was 
currently  reported  that  the  commanding  general 
desired  the  expediticjn  to  be  undertaken  ;  and 
it  was  also  whispered  among  the  men  thai 
Major  Waller  regardeil  the  pro[j(jsed  trip  with 
some  misgivings,  and  as  not  likely  to  be  fruitful 
of  good  ri-sults.  We  were  confident  that  the 
journey  thrcnigli  the  tropical  jungle  and  the 
tangled  forests  and  over  the  rugged  mountains 
would  be  no  child's  play,  l-'rom  words  let  fall 
by  friendly  natives  we  gathered  that  all  previous 
hardship.s,  perils,  and  sufferings  wcnild  be  no- 
thing to  what  was  before  us.  Hut  as  Major 
Waller  was  going  to  lead  lis  in  person  it  is 
certain  that  not  one  of  the  men  assigned  to  the 
duty  would  have  been  willing  to  shirk  it  or  to 


be  left  behind,  even  if  he  had  been   given    a 
chance. 

Several  officers  begged  hard  to  be  allowed  to 
go  along,  and  five  were  accepted.  They  were 
Captain  D.  1).  Porter,  Captain  Hiram  I.  Bearss, 
First  Lieutenant  A.  S.  Williams,  Second  Lieu- 
tenant F.  Halford,  of  the  Marine  Corps,  and 
Second  Lieutenant  C.  de  ^V^  Lyles,  of  the  12th 
Infantry.  Fifty  men,  two  native  scouts,  and 
thirty-three  native  carriers  completed  the  party. 

The  presidents  of  Basey  were  elected  to  choose 
the  native  carriers.  There  were  many  appli- 
cants. All  had  [)resumably  taken  the  oath  of 
allegiance  to  the  United  States,  and  the  fidelity 
of  every  one  was  apparently  well  vouched  for. 
About  half  of  them  rejoiced  in  the  name  of 
Victor,  but  all  vehemently  denied  relationship 
with  the  notorious  leader.  \Ve  christened  them 
over  again,  all  but  one,  who  seemed  to  take  a 
great  fancy  to  Major  Waller,  and  accompanied 
him  everywhere,  carrying  everything  he  was 
allowed  to  and  giving  the  closest  attention  to 
his  wants.  He  was  a  cjuiet,  grave,  slender,  self- 
contained  man,  with  rather  more  dignity  than 
the  other  carriers  ;  perhaps  that  is  the  reason 
we  did  not  give  him  a  nickname. 

At  length  our  preparations  were  completed. 
We  began  the  dangerous  march  into  the  un- 
known interior  of  the  island  on  the  day  after 
Christmas.  The  rain  had  been  falling  in  sheets 
for  several  days,  but  as  we  embarked  the  sun 
broke  from  among  the  dark  clouds,  giving 
promise  of  belter  and  brighter  weather.  The 
river  was  much  swollen,  and  it  was  two  days 
before  we  passed  the  captured  stronghold  in  the 
cliffs  of  the  Sojolon.  A  short  distance  above 
the  river  ceased  to  be  navigable,  and  then  began 
a  toilsome  and  difficult  journey  on  foot.  We 
were  amid  some  of  the  grandest  scenes  in  the 
world.  At  one  point  we  saw  a  natural  bridge 
far  surpassing  the  imposing  grandeur  of  the 
Natural  Bridge  in  Virginia;  and  farther  on 
there  was  a  series  of  fifty  or  sixty  waterfidls  with 
numerous  heavy  rapids. 

In  one  place  the  river  poured  tunuiltuously 
over  a  high  cliff  into  the  crater  of  an  extinct 
volcano,  to  reappear  a  few  hundred  yards  below, 
bubbling  and  seething  through  gravel  and 
broken  pumice.  Sometimes  we  scaled  the  falls 
and  waded  the  rapids  ;  at  others  we  had  to 
clamber  painfully  around  them,  u[)  steei),  over- 
hanging cliffs. 

There  was  one  waterfall  of  surpassing  beauty, 
about  ninety  feet  high.  The  water  fell  almost 
vertically,  in  a  ihin  sheet  of  white,  just  heavy 
enough  to  hide  the  wall  of  stone  behind.  On 
investigation  it  was  found  that  the  rocks  gave  a 
secure  foothold  ;  and  so  the  men,  fastening 
their   rifles   securely    to   their    backs,   began  to 


THli    PURSUrr    OF    CAPTAIN    VICTOR. 


321 


clamber  up  it.  'lo  those  below  it  was  an 
uiicanny  sight  to  witness  the  men  apparently 
climbing  up  a  wall  of  white  water  without 
visible  support. 

The  marching  was  heart-breaking  work,  [)ain- 
fully  slow,  for  not  more  than  three  miles  a  day 
could    be    covered.       Meti    became    sore    and 
chafed     by    constant 
wading ;     and     when 
n  ight  arrived  they 
were  so  tired  that  the 
moment    their    frugal 
meal    was    over    they 
lay  back   where    they 
had  been  sitting  and 
dropped     off    into 
sound  slumber. 

But  there  were 
com|)cnsations,  and 
even  fun,  to  be  got 
out  ot  the  hardships 
and  perils  that  encom- 
passed us.  'J'here  was 
one  great  rapid,  almost 
a  fall,  more  than  a 
mile  long.  The  water, 
from  knee  to  waist 
deep,  roared  and  tum- 
bled over  great  boul- 
ders in  frothy  masses, 
with  a  sullen  roar 
that  nearly  drowned 
all  other  sounds. 
Through  this  mass  of 
wild  waters  we  plunged 
and  struggled  upward. 
Three  men  were  in 
the  lead.  One  slipped, 
and  an  instant  later 
his  body,  with  white 
face  upward,  was 
borne  past  us  with  a 
rush.  Someone 
reached  out  and 
grasped  his  imperilled 
comrade,  only  to  lose 
his  own  footing  and 
go  down  stream  in  the 
seething  whirl.  Then 
a  third  and  a  fourth 
shared  the  same  fate. 
The  rest  of  us  could 

only  look  on  with  horror  at  what  seemed  the 
inevitable  death  of  our  unfortunate  companions. 
But  in  less  time  than  it  takes  to  tell  it  one  after 
another  either  brought  up  against  an  uncovered 
rock  or  reached  safety  in  the  big  pool  at  the 
foot  of  the  rapids,  none  the  worse  for  the 
experience  excepting  a  sharp  shaking-up. 

Vol.  xi.-A\. 


rnK    MEN    llEGAS    TO   Cl.AMHEK    Ul 


After  that  the  climbing  of  the  rapids  became 
a  joke,  and  roars  of  laughter  greeted  mis- 
adventures. Even  the  officers  did  not  escape. 
For  a  long  time  Major  Waller  kept  his  footing  ; 
but  finally  the  men,  who  had  been  watching 
him  out  of  the  corner  of  their  eyes,  saw  him 
stagger  and  go  down.     Over  and  over  he  went, 

until  he  brought  up 
against  a  rock  with  a 
crash.  As  our  Irish 
corporal  remarked  : 
"He  shook  the 
rapids  !  " 

The  next  day  we 
left  the  river  and  be- 
gan a  march  through 
the  forest,  if  march 
it  could  be  called. 
Ahead  a  peak  rose 
almost  perpendicu- 
larly, so  that  we  had 
to  crawl  on  our 
stomachs,  and  often 
pull  ourselves  upward 
by  bushes  and  small 
trees.  Nearlv  all  the 
bushes  were  thorny, 
and  our  hands  were 
soon  lacerated  and 
our  clothing  in  tatters. 
Our  shoes,  too,  be- 
came cut  and  worn  ; 
our  leggings  alone 
withstood  the  rough 
usage. 

Still  the  mountain 
towered  above,  its 
precipitous  outline 
dark  and  broken  by 
the  tangled  trees  and 
thorny  underbrush. 

All  at  once  one  of 
the  men  uttered  an 
exclamation  of  pain 
and  consternation, 
lilood  was  streaming 
from  his  face  and 
neck,  and  on  his 
cheeks  and  forehead 
were  great,  reddish- 
brown,  horrible-look- 
ing reptiles  nearly  a 
finger-length  long  !  Others,  visibly  growing  in 
si/e,  covered  his  neck  and  hands.  A  (juick 
glance  at  one  another  revealed  to  our  startled 
eyes  a  dreadful  spectacle.  The  face  of  every 
man  was  covered  with  the  same  abominable 
creatures,  some  moving  about,  others  motion- 
less,  gorging   themselves   with   blood.      Those 


322 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


which  moved  were  scarcely  thicker  than  a 
knitting-needle  ;  but  as  s  >on  as  they  ceased  to 
move  and  began  to  tap  our  veins  they  grew  in 
size  with  ghastly  rapidity,  until  they  were  fully 
an  inch  in  circumference. 

The  startled  exclamations  of  the  men  drew 


rending  the  body  without  detaching  the  terrible 
head. 

After  this,  so  long  as  we  were  among  the 
leeches,  we  had  no  peace.  They  not  only 
attacked  the  bare  hands  and  face,  but  worked 
their  way  beneath  our  clothing.     Several  men 

were  r  e  n  - 
dered  almost 
sigh  t  less, 
and  all  suf- 
fered untold 
agony  from 
loss  of  blood 
and  the 
jjain  of  the 
wounds. 

To  add  to 
our  misery 
the  heavy 
rains -which 


"  TJIK    MEN    SAW    HIM    STAGGER    AND   GO    DOWN.  ' 


the  attention  of  tile  native  carriers,  whose 
ordinarily  impassive  faces  showed  a  passing 
gleam  of  interest. 

*•  I>eeches  !  Woods  full  of  them,"  explained 
one,  waving  his  hands  expressively  towards  the 
ground  and  bushes. 

(Jlose  inspection  proved  the  truth  of  the 
native's  words.  The  bushes,  and  even  the  dead 
leaves  on  the  ground,  were  literally  covered  with 
the  horrible  thiiiL^s  the  dre.uled  wood-leeches 
of  the  tropif 

'Ihe  carrier.>>  taught  us  to  take  the  creatures 
by  the  tail  and  draw  them  quickly  backward, 
liy  that  plan  their  jaws  were  loosened  from  the 
wound.     Any  other   method    resulted   only   in 


after  the  first  day  or  two  of  our  journey 
— spoiled  a  large  part  of  our  rations.  Our 
daily  portion  had  to  be  reduced  to  a  very 
small  allowance  of  bacon,  a  little  coffee,  and 
such  edible  roots  as  we  could  find  with  the  aid 
of  the  carriers. 

There  was  an  awful  silence  in  the  trackless 
woods.  With  the  exception  of  ourselves  and 
the  leeches,  there  appeared  to  be  absolutely 
no  living  creatures  within  many  miles.  I'or 
two  days  we  did  not  see  even  a  bird.  To 
add  to  the  depression  rapidly  stealing  over 
us  all  we  finally  came  to  the  conclusion 
that  we  were  lost — hopelessly  lost  in  that  awful 
wilderness  ! 


[Till-  MicMiu  ;ini|  ( OIK  liidiiij;  instalim.-iit  of  ihis  rcmarUaljlc  narralivc  will  be  piililisiicd  in  our  ncxi   issue.  It 

«lc<>cril)cs  the  forlorn    ijope    lo<l    by    Major    Waller    to    seek    succour;    the   weird   pliosplioresceiil    forest    and  tlie 

di>rovery   made  therein;    the   treachery  of  the  guides;    the   horrors   of   the    retreat  ;    the  return  of  the 
.  of  the  iKirly  lo  civilization  ;  ami   the  fate  that  overlook   the  notorious   "Captain   Victor."] 


A     NIGHT     OF     HORRORS. 

11\    ( '.    M.    Stf.vknson,    ok    Taismv. 

The  awful  experience  which  befell  Mrs.  Hart,  of  Paisley.  She  stepped  by  mistake  into  the  waters 
of  a  flooded  brook,  and  was  carried  into  a  sewer,  where  for  nearly  eight  hours  she  battled  for  life  in 
utter  darkness,  attacked  unceasingly  by  swarms  of  huge  rats.  Then  the  waters  rose  and  swept  her 
away  into  the  River  Cart,  where  she  was  seen  and  rescued.  Our  commissioner  obtained  the  story 
irom   Mrs.   Harts  own   lips,   and    the  narrative  is  illustrated  with  specially-taken  photographs. 


LV 


on 


m  o  r  11  1  n  g 


the 
of 

Sunday,    22iul 

M  a  r  eh,     t  \v  o 

[)  ()  1  i  (■  c  -  (M)  n  - 
staljlcs  in  the  big  Scottish 
thread  -  making  town  of 
I'aislcy  were  on  duty  in  tlie 
vicinity  of  the  River  Cart 
when  one  called  the  other's 
attention  to  a  moving  object 
at  the  foot  of  a  blank  wall 
which  bounds  the  other  side 
of  the  river  at  a  point  oppo- 
site to  which  the  officers 
had  stopped.  Then  they 
heard  a  faint  cry,  distin- 
guishable only  because  of 
the  stillness  of  the  Sabbath 
morning.  Hurrying  round 
by  the  Abbey  Bridge,  fortunately  but  a  little 
distance  off,  they  could  make  out  upon  a  little 
patch  of  firm  ground,  and  lying  within  a  foot 
or  two  of  the  broad,  swiftly-flowing  river,  a  female 
figure,  bare  -  footed,  bare  -  headed,  drenched, 
clothing  in  tatters,  and  altogether  pitiable. 

When  it  runs  through  a  populous  centre  a 
river  has  always  its  sordid  tale  to  tell — usually 
in  small  paragraphs 
in  the  newsjjapers 
headed  "  Suicide,"  or 
it  may  be,  charitably, 
"  Drowning  Acci- 
dent." This  particu- 
lar "case "  might  have 
been  considered  en- 
tirely commonplace, 
but  it  turned  out  to 
be  far  otherwise.  The 
story  as  told  by  the 
woman  when  rescued 
by  the  policemen  was 
all  but  incredible  ;  at 
the  first  telling  it 
sounded  absurd.  But 
a  thorough  investiga- 
tion for  the  purposes 
of  a  plain  and  straight- 
forward narrative  in 
these  pages  could 
find  no  flaw  in  the 
woman's   account     of 


her  terrible  experiences,  and 
revealed  details  of  danger 
and  horror  such  as  one 
might  ex[)ect  to  get  only  in 
some  gruesome  Zolaesque 
drama  f)f  underground  Paris. 
Mrs.  Sarah  Hart,  to  whom 
this  adventure  happened,  is 
Irish,  as  her  maiden  name 
of  Rafferty  denotes.  'Jhough 
but  an  inch  or  two  over 
five  feet  in  height,  she  is 
strongly  built,  and  her  mus- 
cular arms  and  ruddy  com- 
plexion denote  the  robust 
health  of  the  outdoor  worker. 
She  wants  but  one  year  of 
fifty,  and  has  been  a  widow 
for  several  years. 

On  the  Saturday  night 
which  stands  out  so  vividly  in  her  meuKjry  she 
walked  from  the  town  of  Barrhead,  a  few  miles 
off,  to  Paisley,  where  she  intended  to  spend  the 
night.  It  was  about  half-past  eight  o'clock,  she 
believes,  and  a  dark,  wet  night,  when  she  reached 
the  Saucel,  one  of  the  first  tenement  dwellings 
met  with  from  that  direction  of  approach.  At  the 
entry  of  No.    12,  where  she  is,  she   says,  "well 


ANAH       HART,    WHO     WAS     ATIACKKI)     I'.V 
SWARMS  OF-    RATS   IN    A    SEWEK. 

From  a  Sketch. 


THE    ESI'EUAIR    BUKN,    INTO    WHICH    MkS.    HAKT    KKI.L — THE    WATKK    WAS    LEVEL    WITH    THE 
From   a\  TOI>   of    the    walls    at    THE    TIME.  [PhotO. 


324 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


About  this  time  the  country  had 
been  experiencing  a  prolonged 
spell  of  extremely  wet  weather, 
and  in  consequence  the  burn  was 
in  flood,  its  turbid  waters  rushing 
swiftly  along  on  a  level  with  the 
banks  shown  in  one  of  the  photo- 
graphs given.  In  the  uncertain  light 
this  proved  poor  Mrs.  Hart's  un- 
doing. 

"  The  water,"  she  said,  "  was  so 
high — up  to  the  top  of  the  wall — 
and  the  ground  so  wet  and  glisten- 
ing that  it  looked  to  me  just  like 
the  footpath.  I  stepped  on — and 
immediately  discovered  my  mis- 
take. I  was  too  late  to  get  back, 
and  was  carried  away  like  a  straw. 
Almost  before  I  knew  what  had 
happened    I    was    underneath   the 


bridge." 


the 

It 

but 


"l    STEPPED  ON— AND    IMMKDI ATF.LV    DISCOVKRED   MY   MISTAKE.' 


acfjuainted,"  .she  turned  in.  As  she  went  along 
she  noticed  several  suspicious-looking  men;  and 
on  reaching  the  open  back-court,  which  is  used 
as  a  washing  green,  she  lurnc-d  off  to  avoid 
lliein,  making  for  the 
opposite  side  of  the 
green,  where  she  be- 
lieved slie  could  cross 
the  stream  known  as 
I'      I         '    r    I'.nrn 

N\-     -    pa.sl   this 

spot,  with  stone  em- 
bankments up  to  the 
level  of  ihc  green,  but 
devoid  of  feniing 
and  get  to  a  footpath 
whirh  would  take  her 
by  a  near  cut  t(»  her 
destination  in  the 
tow!),  :i  pl.Kc  known 
as  Karterliolin.  It  is.il 
most  anjusing  to  think 
of  the  woman  shrink  i  ng 
front  ■  i^f  near  the 
iinii  ..when  one 

considers    the     pluf  k 

V.'  '  '  .     I  ,  , 


,  _^  This  "  bridge      is   seen   in 

\*TT        i)hotograph  reproduced  below. 
A  *  is    not  really  a   bridge  at  all, 

merely  the  slightly  -  arched  stone 
facing  of  the  culvert  through  which 
the  Espedair  Burn  runs  for  the 
last  part  of  its  journey  to  the  River 
Cart,  which  in  its  turn  flows  into 
the  River  Clyde.  This  culvert,  or 
sewer,  goes  below  the  main  roadway 
which  Mrs.  Hart  had  just  left,  and  then  beneath 
some  buildings.  It  extends  for  about  a  hundred 
and  fifty  yards,  its  course  taking  a  slight  bend 
about  the  middle,  and  the  height  of  the  tunnel 


.•i;i:T  wir  ,       i  ijMR   buKN   l.u: 

llOili  tl  I'Jioto, 


U.NIjKKGK'jL'.'.'D. 


A    XKlUr    Ol      HORRORS. 


3-'5 


varies  from  five  to  seven  feet.  'I'hc  bed  of  the 
stream  all  along  the  culvert  and  for  some 
distance  in  the  open  air  is  made  of  brick,  but 
this  does  not  prevent  huge  rats — including 
many  of  the  water  species  from  swarming  in 
hundreds  in  its  cavernous  depths,  and  making 
their  burrows  along  the  slimy  sides. 

As  has  already  been  stated,  the  stream  was 
in  flood  and  was  at  this  time  within  a  foot  of 
the  roof  at  the  entrance.  As  Mrs.  Hart  was 
whirled  along  helplessly  by  the  fierce  torrent 
she   managed,  with  the  strength  of  despair,   to 


t 


"MRS.    MART   CI.UNT.    FOR    A    FF.W    MINUTFS   TO   TMF.   STONE-WOKK. 

clulcn  at    the  arch    and  temporarily  arrest  her 
headlong  progress. 

The  bottom  of  the  culvert  immediately  beyond 
this  point  fulls  abruptly,  making  a  kind  of  small 
waterfall  several  feet  deep.  Here,  in  this  wild 
tumble  of  waters,  Mrs.  Hart  clung  for  a  few 
minutes  to  the  stone-work,  shouting  her  loudest 
for  help,  which,  unfortunately,  was  not  forth- 
coming. Again  and  again  she  attem[)ted  to 
pull  herself  over  the  ledge  .so  close  above  her 
head,  but  the  force  of  the  current  prevented 
her,  and  finally  a  rush  of  water  tore  her  from 
her  precarious  hold  and  hurried  her   relentlessly 


down   into   the   utter  darkness   of  the  noisome 
tunnel  beyond.* 

Once  inside  the  tunnel,  the  unfortunate  woman 
struggled  desperately  to  gain  her  feet  and  make 
her  way  back  to  the  entrance.  The  water,  how- 
ever, was  up  to  her  chest,  and  rushing  along  at 
a  terrific  pace,  so  that  her  feet  continually  slipped 
from  under  her.  It  occurred  to  her  that  if  she 
could  get  her  boots  off — they  were  of  the  elastic- 
side  variety  —  she  might  be  able  to  secure  a 
better  grip  on  the  bottom.  So,  holding  on  to 
the  slimy  wall,  she  contrived,  with  much  difficulty, 

to  push  off  her  boots. 

It  was  all  of  no  use, 
licnvever — she  kept  slip- 
ping and  sliding  back- 
wards, the  flood  eddying 
round  her  and  forcing 
her  relentlessly  farther 
and  farther  away  from 
the  point  at  which  she 
had  entered  the  vault, 
where  she  could  see  a 
tiny  glimmer  of  light. 
Finding  that,  despite 
her  most  gallant  efforts, 
she  could  get  no  nearer 
her  goal,  the  poor 
woman  desisted  and 
crouched  against  the 
brickwork  to  think  what 
she  should  do  next  As 
she  clung  there  the  rising 
water  swirled  round  her, 
and  sometimes  flung  its 
cold  splashes  into  her 
face.  And  all  the  time, 
to  add  to  the  poignancy 
of  her  distress,  she  could 
distinctly  hear  the  big 
clock  on  the  town-hall 
chiming  the  (]uarter  hours 
—  a  bitter  reuiinderof  how 
near  she  was  to  friendsand 
assistance  if  only  her  des- 
perate plight  were  known. 
Tresently  a  new  horror  was  added  to  her 
already  sufficiently  terrible  position.  Disturbed 
in  their  burrows  by  the  rising  water,  countless 
myriads  of  huge  rats  now  began  to  swarm 
around  the  poor  buffeted  woman.     They  bit  at 

•  I  deemed  it  advisable  to  seelTthis  part  of  the  narrative  couUl 
l)e  corroborated.  If  so,  the  whole  story  »«;c:uiie  Lompletc,  lutinK' 
ill  with  the  i>.lice  account  of  rinding  the  woman  marvellous  y  saved 
(lom  drowiunn  in  the  river  bcvond.  Conlirmation  was  readily  <orth- 
comini;.  A  woman  residing  in  an  adjoining  tenement  informed  me 
that  she  hwir.l  cries  as  of  a  female  in  distress,  while  reading  m  her 
house  between  eight  and  nine  o'clock  on  -Saturday  night.  1  his 
woman  knew  the  dangers  of  the  Kspcdair  Burn,  and  l..st  no  time  in 
getting  to  the  s|wt.  Hut  nothing  was  to  be  seen,  and  the  afTair  was 
Vrea.ed  as  a  false  alarm.  It  is  pi.iful  to  ih.nk  ihat  not  far  off  the 
sturdy  liille  Irishwoman  was  battling  for  de;ir  life  in  the  darkness, 
with  unknown  horrors  around  her.— The  Author. 


326 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


her  hantls  and  clothes  and  clung  tenaciously  to 
her  garments,  their  loathsome  bodies  and  beady 
eyes  seeming  to  be  all  around  her. 

"  At  first,"  said  Mrs.  Hart,  "  I  thought  the 
movenunt  I  could  feel  was  only  the  water 
rising  over  my  face  and  head.  Then  I  found 
out  it  was  rats  !  I  do  not  think  I  shall  ever  be 
more  afraid  in  my  life  !  I  commenced  scream- 
in;'  with  all   mv  iiiiuht,   but  no  one  heard   me, 


I    HAD  TO   KRKr   KNOCKING  nCK   TMK   r;RPAT   IIRUTPS    WHICH    CI.IMIlF.n   OVPR    MK. 

and  I  had  to  keep  moving  m)self  and  krux  king 
off  tK  which  cliinlH-d  over  me." 

Ai.  .         ;  hours  of  that   awful   night 

went  slowly  by.  Just  picture  for  yourself  the 
fM>s  tinn  of  this  jKKir  woman,  maintaining  her 
I''"-  '■'■••■•  the  wall  only  with  the  utmost 
['■  t  high   in  a   swirling   torrent,   in 

inky  tlarkmss,  and  ronlinually  attacked  by 
^"  ■'    '  •  ihsomc    lats,    who    !)it    vii  iously 

\''  <\  their  efforts  to  us(!  her  head 

and  «»houlfIers  as  a  safe  retreat  from  the  waters 
which   had   flooded   their  usual  homes.     How 


Mrs.  Hart  escaped  serious  injury  from  these 
voracious  creatures  is  all  but  inexplicable,  and 
can  only  be  attributed  to  the  terror-stricken 
desperation  of  her  efforts  to  keep  them  off,  and 
the  fact  that  the  rats  themselves  were  consider- 
ably handicapped  by  the  force  of  the  current. 
V>ut  that  the  ordeal  must  have  been  appalling 
beyond  description  is  shown  by  the  condition 
of   the  clothes  she  was  wearing   at   the   time, 

which  were  seen  by  the 
writer.  The  stout  blue 
serge  is  a  mass  of  small 
tears,  while  in  parts  the 
rats'  teeth  have  bitten 
through  both  cloth  and 
lining. 

I'or  sevefi  and  a  half 
hours  the  unfortunate 
noman  endured  all  the 
horrors  of  this  subter- 
ranean vault,  the  slow 
])assage  of  time  being 
brought  home  to  her  tor- 
tured brain  by  the  mono- 
tonous chiming  of  tiie 
town-hall  clock.  All  this 
time  she  was  in  inky  dark- 
ness, save  for  the  faint 
glimmer  from  the  end  of 
the  culvert,  and  during 
the  whole  period  the  water 
rose  slowly  f)ut  steadily, 
while  the  swarming  rats 
returned  again  and  again 
to  the  attack. 

Mrs.    Hart   remembers 

hearing   the   clock   strike 

the  (]uarter   to  four.      By 

this   time   the  water   had 

increased  considerably  in 

volume,     and     gradually 

washed  her  from  position 

after    position,     until    at 

last    she  lost    her  footing 

altogether  and  was  swept 

away  once  more.       This 

time    the    turbid    stream 

carried     her     right    down    to    the    l\i\ir    ("art. 

fortunately  for  the  poor  woman,  the  river   was 

also  in  flf)od  and  up  to   the  level  of  the  culvert, 

so  that  the  speed  of  the  current   moderated  as 

she  neared  the  main  stream,  and  she  was  able 

to  clutch   hold   of  a   piece  of  drift  wood  which 

stuck  up  out  of  the  river.     This  jjiece  of  wood  is 

seen  in  the  photo,  on  the  next  page,  which  shows 

the   River   Cart  after   the   flood    had   subsided. 

At    the    time    Mrs.    Hart    was    swept    into    the 

stream  this  upright  stick  was  all  but  covered. 

Having   grasped    the   stick,    Mrs.    Hart   sue- 


A     MClir    ()!■     IIOKKOK.S. 


J-  / 


ceeded  in  laying  hold  of  some  tufts  of  grass  and 
so  pulling  herself  on  to  the  bank.  Woman-like, 
in  spite  of  the  terrible  experience  she  had  just 
come  through,  she  thought  of  lur  appearance. 
"If  anyone  hatl  seen  me  then!"  she  said. 
•'  All  my  luiir-pins  gone,  my  hair  hanging  about 
me,  and  my  clothes  in  rags  ;   I  must  have  been 


end.  However,  I  stuck  it  firmly  in  the  .sand, 
and,  to  my  surprise,  Mrs.  Hart  was  able  to  go  up 
it  with  very  little  assistance.  When  she  got  to 
the  top  of  the  wall  she  did  not  hesitate,  but 
faced  the  spiked  railing,  and  climbed  it  without 
much  trouble.  .Slie  was  then  safely  in  the 
infirmary  grounds,  and  was  able   to  accompany 


THE    KIVICK    CAKT,  SHOWING   THE    Ul'KlOH  r   STAKE   WHICH    JUiS.   HAliT    MANAGED   TO  CLUTCH    HOI  D   OF— AT 
J'rplll  a\  THE   TIME   OK    IIEK    ADVENTURE    IT    WAS   ALL    BUT   COVERED.  [I'/wto. 


a  fearsome  sight.  No  wonder  the  policemen 
asked  me  where  I  had  come  from  ! " 

A  fearsome  sight  the  poor  woman  certainly 
was.  Though  quite  conscious,  she  had  the 
appearance  of  a  cor[)se,  the  skin  of  her  hands, 
es[)ecially,  being  a  deathly  white.  She  lay  for 
a  couple  of  hours,  probably,  on  her  newly-found 
haven  ere  assistance  came  in  the  shape  of  the 
two  stalwart  constables  to  whom  she  shouted. 

Let  Constable  21,  of  Paisley,  narrate  the 
manner  of  her  rescue  :  — 

"  JCarly  on  .Sunday  morning,  22n(l  March,"  he 
said,  "between  six  and  seven  o'clock,  I  was  on 
duty  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Cart.  My  neighbour 
constable  told  me  that  he  thou'.;ht  there  was  a 
woman  in  the  river.  We  went  round  by  the 
bridge.  When  we  saw  the  woman  it  was  diffi- 
cult to  know  how  we  were  to  get  to  hi  r.  I  went 
to  a  yard  near,  but  could  not  get  a  ladder.  In 
another  yard  we  did  get  a  ladder,  but  it  was 
found  to  be  short  of  the  distance  it  was  needed 
for.  So  I  got  off  my  l)elt,  my  cape,  lamp,  keys, 
etc.,  and  got  over  the  railing,  leaving  the  ladder 
behind.  I  managed  to  swing  myself  down  to  a 
ledge  on  the  wall,  and  then  dropped  beside  the 
poor  creature.  The  difficulty  was  to  get  her  up. 
The  ladder  was  too  short,  and  broken  at  one 


us  to  the  police  office,  though  I  could  see  she 
was  in  a  very   weak  condition." 

Mrs.  Hart  was  kept  in  the  police  office  till 
Monday  morning,  tended  carefully  by  the  chief 
constable  and  his  subordinates,  wlio  gave  her 
stimulants,  food,  and  dry  clothing,  and  [)rovidecl 
her  with  a  warm  room. 

Happily,  it  falls  to  the  lot  of  very  few  to 
brave  such  dangers  and  undergo  such  a  mental 
strain  as  tlid  this  plucky  little  Irish  woman.  She  has 
since  been  doing  her  work  again  in  the  fields  like 
any  other  hardv  agricultural  labourer.  Hut  such  a 
shock  could  not  be  merely  a  passing  one.  About 
a  month  aft ?r  the  occurrence  Mrs.  Hart  col- 
lapsed, and  had  to  undergo  treatment  in  hos[»ital. 
Her  de|)endence  fi)r  many  years  u[)on  her  own 
earnings  by  manual  labour  from  day  to  day  and 
the  habitual  exposure  in  all  sorts  of  weather  to 
which  she  has  been  subji'cted  have  no  (.loubt 
made  her  remarkably  strong  in  l)oth  mind  and 
body,  and  these  qualities  must  be  looked  to  as 
accounting  for  her  surviving  an  experience 
which  to  most  people  would  have  meant  certain 
death,  either  by  drowning,  the  effects  of  the 
long  exposure,  or  sheer  terror  at  the  accumu- 
lated horrors  of  that  awful  night  in  the  subter- 
ranean stream. 


JIt2    J^orcissus    festival    at  JYlontrsu;<. 

IJv  Thomas  E.  Curtis. 

The  great  spring  festival  of  Switzerland,  held  usually  in  May,  is  here  described.     It  is  in  part  a  symbolic 

representation  of  the    triumph    of   spring    over    winter,    the    vernal    season    being    represented    by   the 

narcissus,  which,  at  this  time  of  the  year,  blooms  profusely  on  the  uplands  near  Lake  Geneva. 


K  or  she  who  first  thought  of  the 
I'cte  des  Narcisses,  which  takes 
I  i)lace  annually  at  Montreux,  on  the 
j  Lake  of  Cieneva,  possessed  practical 
sense  and  imagination.  As  an 
altra<iiun  to  tourists  and  others  who  make 
.Monlieux  a  winter  home  it  is  already  a  sure 
success,  and  as  a  creation  of  poetic  fancy  is, 


with  drifted  snow,  yet  no  one,  until  five 
or  si.K  years  back,  saw  its  symbolic  meaning  as 
those  in  Montreux  know  it  at  the  present  time. 
For  the  appearance  of  the  first  star-like  blossom 
on  the  green  above  the  lake  shows  that  the 
longed-for  spring  is  near,  and,  as  the  single 
blooms  multiply  into  uncountable  thousands, 
this  profusion  of  pure  white  proclaims  to  Swiss 


I     '"      I  HI'.   I'll-  i;i;i.Ts   AM.    I  II  I  I  I   I  I  I. 


^1"  '\.H)\\,   the  |)retliest  specta 

*""'  1  upon  the  Continent. 

Thfist-  who  have  seen  this  exquisite  festival, 

illy  typifying  the  triumph  of  .spring  over 

'  ■•    and     have     revelled     in     its     delights 

ofti-n  wonficred   why  it  was  not   thought 

lor    more    years   than    one    can 

II"-  ii.s,    that    dainty    rhild    of 

'^•'''*    '  "d   on    the    ufilands    near 

Ixjman,    covering     the    landscape    as    though 


havf 
of 


and  foreigner  alike  that  winter  has  lost  at  last 
its  icy  gri[).  It  is  a  moment  when  spirits  rise, 
and  the  tender  feelings,  energy,  and  imagination 
of  all  are  stirred  into  a  newer  life. 

In  one  sense  the  festival  is  like  all  others,  for 
m  ii  there  is  a  procession  of  decorated  cars, 
without  which  no  modern  floral  festival  is 
supposed  to  be  complete,  but  it  differs  entirely 
from  similar  /r/es  in  the  special  use  to  which  a 
single    flower   is   put.       The    narcissus     being 


'nil':    NARCISSUS   kkstixai,    \i    .m<  )N  i  ki:i'\. 


3-V 


J-'roin  a  Photo.  by\ 


HERE   WE   SEE   ANOTHEK    PKETFY    BALLET. 


iFra/uiioli. 


tlie  characteristic  blossom  of  this  region,  gives 
distinct  mark  to  the  celebration  as  a  whole,  and, 
although  otlier  spring  flowers  lend  variety  to 
the  ballets  and  processions,  it  is  the  narcissus 
around  which  everything  may  be  said  to  turn. 
It  is  Prince  Nar- 
cissus, embodi- 
ment of  this 
little  flower,  who 
forms  the  main 
figure  in  iha/c/e. 
He  is  the  centre 
of  popular  attrac 
tion.  It  is  he 
for  whom  tin 
triumplial  musi( 
plays;  he  who 
makes  love  to 
the  Kairy  Queen ; 
and  w  hen  t  h  l 
official  c  h  a  r  i  (J  I 
rolls  luxuriously 
along  the  street 
it  is  1'  r  i  n  c  L- 
Narcissus  wIkj 
receives  the 
homage  of  the 
throng. 

r  h  e  fete  i  s 
held  towards  the 
end  of  May  — 
when  travel  to 
Switzerland     has 

Vol.  xi. — 42. 


begun  and  the  narcissus  is  at  its  best— and  draws 
visitors  from  all  parts.  Special  trains  are  run  from 
Berne  and  deneva,  and  an  extra  service  of  boats 
is  put  on  during  tiic  two  days  on  which  the  festival 
is  held.     For  some  time  before  the  fete  begins 


I  Hi;    (_HII.1)1;KN    (.d     IHKHH.II      IIIIIK     IKKI  •NiMASl.t-.     >\  i  I  livi.    i 

f-'rom  a  P/ioio.  by  Fransioli, 


35° 


THK    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


Montreux  itself  shows  unwonted  excitement. 
Masses  of  lovely  blooms  are  sold  by  weight  in 
the  public  squares  for  house  decoration,  and 
special  flower  markets  are  held  for  the  benefit 
of  those  who  want  to  buy.  The  windows  of 
the  shops  are  filled  with  decorative  devices, 
in  which  the  narcissus  is  prominent,  and  with 
an  activity  born  of  intense  interest  in  this  lake- 
side carnival  the  people  of  Montreux  adorn  their 


performed  in  an  open  square,  with  large  covered 
stands  (at  so  much  per  seat)  in  the  background, 
the  opening  scene  was  enacted  by  skaters  and 
gnomes,  as  if  the  better  to  show  the  rigours  of 
winter.  But  these  personages  recently  gave 
way  to  the  pierrots,  with  no  especial  loss  to  the 
quality  of  the  play. 

The  care  with  which  each  detail  of  the  per- 
formance   is    thought    out    is    shown    with    the 


A     1  ASI  I'M  I   1  >     1>I  (_■  'K.A  I  IK 


M.  lOH-CAK. 


I  lilliltcr. 


h<  ith  a  floral   garb  and   turn  their   little 

Idwii  iiilo  a  Veritable  bower  of  Ixauly. 

On  a  .s|Krial  stage  erected  for  the  dancers, 
wilh  a  mcdixval  gateway  as  a  background, 
shown  in  some  of  our  illustrations,  the  alle- 
H«>riral  representation  of  the  conflict  lictween 
winl»T  and  spring  i^  performed.  A  Vni\\  musical 
i/ation,  or,  in  some  cases,-  one  from 
L.^u^.lnne  or  Vevi  y,  begins  the  spectacle  with 
a  few  \erM's,  sung  to  s[H-eially  (oni|»osed 
music,  explaining  the  allegory  that  follows. 
The  orchestra  from  the  local  Kursaal  strikes  up 
tli.  r.v.  rfi.i,  ;,fij;r  whitli,  tl)rough  the  portal  of 
ll  enter  a  sprightly  band  of  pierrots 

and    Pierrettes,    dancing    to   the    "Chant   des 
I'"  "■   '    '  by  a  <!  f  little   maidens, 

li'  ory  of  '  ival,  when  if  was 


advent  of  I'airy  S[)ring  and  her  train  of  fairies 
in  blue— the  next  movement  in  the  spectacle. 
Here  the  costumes  suggest  the  memorai)le 
azure  of  this  beautiful  Swiss  region,  and  a 
pretty  sight  the  little  children  are  as  they  trip 
up  and  down  the  stage.  No  sooner  is  their 
dance  finished  than  a  soloist  ajjpears,  who 
welcomes  spring  in  song,  to  t)c  followed 
almost  immediately  by  the  lively  entry  on 
bicycles  of  a  troop  of  inoiicttcs  or  gulls,  so 
common  in  the  winter  times  on  the  neigh- 
bouring lake,  these  birds  being  represented  by 
another  group  of  little  ones.  ^Vith  poetic 
appro])riateness  the  gulls  are  shown  to  have  but 
fitful  life,  for  a  struggle  is  i)recipitated  by  the 
entrance  of  the  first  swallow  of  spring,  accom- 
panied by  a   lively   set  of  mates.     The  quarrel 


TIIK    NARCISSUS    FESTIVAL    A  l'    MOXTRKUX. 


35^ 


^^M^'^L^ 

"T'^^B^    ^    H    9     K 

^Pi^^^ 

fe"  1  * 

From  a  Photc.  hy\ 


THIS   CAKKIA(.E    KEl'HESEN  I  ■ 


AWN    TENNFS. 


I  /.•/,. 


limbic.  A  lad  of  fine 
[)liysiquc  and  presence  is 
clioscn  from  amongst  the 
youth  of  Montreux  to 
enact  this  part.  On  liis 
princely  costume  is  a  nar- 
cissus, and  in  his  hand 
a  narcissus-shaped  sceptre. 
^^'ith  dignity  he  pays  a 
welcome  court  to  the 
I'airy  of  Spring,  their 
union  symbolizing  the 
linal  act  in  the  defeat  of 
winter.  Humour  is  lent 
to  the  spectacle  i)y  a  group 
of  dolls  and  marionettes, 
who,  in  a  ballet  borrowed 
from  the  theatrical  stage, 
create  considerable 
laughter  with  a  spirited 
rondo  from  a  local  com- 
poser's pen. 

The  result  of  the  com- 
of    spring     is    shown 


between  these  birds  of  hostile  seasons— if  suc:h 

it  may  be  called — is  brief,  and  much  is  left  to 

the   imagination   of    the  spectator;   but   in   the 

end  spring  is  triumphant  and  winter  is  finally 

overthrown,      'ihe  con)[)lete  victory  of  spring  is 

shown   by  a  ballet  of  flowers,  the  members  of 

which,  marching  slowly  in  front  of  their  (hieen, 

break  into   full   blossom   as   they  surround  her. 

The     myosotis 

and    lily    of    the 

\  alley       dance 

hand  •  in  -  ha  nd 

with    primrose 

and    pansy,     the 

daffodil    and 

daisy  vie  with  the 

snowdrop    and 

violet      in      their 

attentions  to  the 

fairy    monarch    - 

the  fragrant  nar 

cissus,     favourite 

of     Montreux, 

being  the  last  of 

these     dainty 

spring     blossoms 

to  appear  in  this 

court     of     lloral 

beauty. 

The  appear- 
ance of  Prince 
Narcissus  and 
his  retinue  is 
preceded  by  a 
blast  of  sonorous 


uig  oi  sj)rMig  IS 
by  the  delight  of  some  little  people  dressed 
a  la  Pompadour  as  marchionesses,  who,  in  the 
spirit  of  the  s{)ectacle,  welcome  a  change  from 
their  winter  (juarters  and  i)roceed  to  enjoy  it. 
Carried  in  miniature  Sedan  chairs  of  the  time  of 
Louis  XV.  they  come  upon  the  stage,  and  are 
handed  (l(nvn  by  prettily-dressed  attendants,  who 
join   their  little  mistresses  in   a  dainty  gavotte. 


l-'roin  a  Plutto.  hy\ 


THE  CMAKIOT   OK    THE    KAIKV   gLiEKN. 


[Bni:>ier. 


Tin-:    WIDK    WORTJ)    MAGAZINE. 


1  111.-,  ctlctt  IS  one  of  tlic  brightest  in  the  whole 
s()ectaclc,  for  the  little  women,  with  their 
I)owdered  hair  and  patches,  bring  to  the  modern 
the  perfume  of  a  time  long  past.  An  Alpine 
dance,  performed  in  the  costumes  of  old 
Montreux,  ends  the  ballets. 

Naturally,  in  the  development  of  this  now 
important  spectacle  alterations  have  taken  place 
and  new  features  are  introduced  yearly,  which 
attract  new  visitors  and  give  variety  to  the 
representation.  The  progress  made  in  its 
effective  performance  comes,  of  course,  from 
the  familiarity  of  the  children  with  the  parts 
they  play,  for  the  same  faces  are  to  be  seen 
each  year,  until  the  little  ones  have  attained  an 
age  which,  unhappily,  makes  them  useless  to 
express  the  sprightliness  of  a  child  of  six  or 
eight.  It  must  not,  however,  be  thought  that 
the  narcissus  festival  is  wholly  performed  by 
children.  The  adult  has  a  part  in  it,  and  in 
the  |)erformance  of  last  year  a  minuet  was  per- 
formed by  men  and  women  with  great  success. 
Solos  and  dutts  are  at  tiims  sung  by  adults,  but 


nothing  is  introduced,  either  in  song  or  dance, 
which  tends  to  destroy  the  illusion  so  delight- 
fully created  by  the  smaller  ones.  One  can 
hardly  praise  too  much  the  skill  with  which  the 
children  have  been  trained  or  the  stage  manage- 
ment which  has  carried  on  the  representation  in 
previous  years  without  a  hitch. 

The  grand  procession  comes  at  the  end  of 
the  play.  V>  ith  the  Fairy  Queen  Prince  Nar- 
cissus takes  his  way  to  the  official  chariot,  in 
which  all  the  little  actors  have  seated  them- 
selves. In  the  rear  of  this  car  come  the 
private  carriages  and  decorated  cars,  and,  alas  ! 
the  advertising  enormities  which  seem  to  be 
indispensable  to  every  modern  carnival.  The 
procession  proceeds  to  one  of  the  squares, 
where  a  battle  of  flowers  is  fought,  and  on 
the  evening  of  the  last  day  of  the  fete 
prizes  are  distributed  for  the  best-decorated 
vehicles  and  houses.  The  town  and  (juays 
are  then  illuminated,  and  a  \'enetian  fete  at 
the  Kursaal  closes  the  great  spring  festival  of 
SwitzerU'.nd. 


"N1-.   ..►     MIf.    AI.Vll<ir>tN<i    ISNOHMIIIKS   WllfCll    SKEM    INDISI'KNSAIILK   TO    MOPERN   CARNIVALS. 

h'rvm  a  I'lioto.  hy  flm/icr. 


At  Cardona,  in  Spain,  there  is  a  remarkable  mountain   composed  entirely  of   salt,   so  dazzling  and 
transparent  that  it  resembles    a  huge    mass  of  ice.      The    author  describes    a  visit    to    this    strange 
peak  and  the  magnificent  grottos  which  are  to  be  found  in  its  interior. 


HE  salt  mountain  of  Cardona,  in 
Spain,  is  an  instance  of  Nature's 
caprices.  A  mountain  of  salt  ! 
^^'ere  so  curious  a  phenomenon 
situated  in  a  country  where  com- 
munications are  an  easier  matter  than  in  Spain, 
thousands  of  visitors  would  flock  to  it  annually ; 
but,  buried  as  it  is  amonj;  the  most  remote  of 
the  buttresses  of  the  Iberian  Pyrenees,  north  cf 
Lerida,  between  Barcelona  and  Seo  de  Urgel, 
in  the  midst  of  an  inhospitable  region,  glacial 
in  winter  and  torrid  in  summer,   it  is  only  seen 


but  rarely,  and  then  by  a  small  number  of 
people. 

The  railway  only  runs  to  within  forty  kilo- 
metres of  it,  and  after  that  the  traveller  has 
recourse  to  a  tartana,  a  species  of  long,  two- 
wheeled  vehicle  drawn  by  four  or  five  mules. 
One  is  here  in  the  midst  of  Catalonia  ;  the 
sunburnt  peasants  all  wear  the  scarlet  Phrygian 
cap  and  long  and  graceful  cUjaks. 

Gradually  the  cultivated  lands  fade  from 
view,  the  soil  begins  to  present  a  harder  and 
more  pebbly  surface,  and  for  six  long  hours  the 


Vol. 


A   GENERAL  VIEW   UK    THE    MOUNTAIN    OF.  SALT,    SHOWING   THE    STRANGE    "  DEAD    SEA  "    WHICH    I  lES   IN    ITS  CKATFK. 

From  a  Photo,  hv  /'<»«/  Cruycr. 
i.-12. 


JJ-+ 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


lartana  jolts  one  over  a  stony  road  much  cut 
up  with  ruts.  A  kind  of  seasickness,  i)ro- 
duced  by  the  rolling  motion  of  the  pecuUar 
conveyance,  does  not  add  to  the  traveller's 
enjoyment. 

At  last  Cardona  is  reached.  On  the  summit 
of  a  perpendicular  mountain  stands  the  ancient 
citadel,  with  its  walls  and  turrets  of  brick,  which 
was  for  ages  one  of  the  most  impregnable 
throughout  Spain,  but  which  long-range  guns 
would  nowadays  shatter  in  less  than  an  hour.     A 


the  telescope.  In  all  directions  whitish  slabs, 
gradually  increasing  in  numbers,  dot  the  land- 
scape. 

Suddenly,  as  the  conveyance  turns  the  corner 
of  a  mountain  path,  a  huge  resplendent  mass 
greets  the  traveller's  dazzled  vision.  It  seems 
hke  a  glacier,  with  its  sharply  cut  ridges,  its 
light  green  transparencies,  its  l)luish  shadows, 
and  its  almost  {)erpendicular  coulees.  On  draw- 
ing nearer  the  illusion  increases;  it  looks  as 
though  the  whole  stupendous  mass  were  glazed 


TMR    MUUNtAIN    LUUKS   KXACTLV   LIKK   A    STU|-|'.NI>((11S  tll.ACIKK— IT    IS   KSTIM A  1  l-.U    TO  CONTAIN    500,000,000   TONS   OF   SALT  ! 

h'loiii  a  I'hoto.  l>y  rniil  Criiyer. 


few  sandal  shcxl  soldiers  are  listlessly  mounting 
guard  on  the  ramparts.  A  (  uriously  while 
UH>king  stnain,  apjKin  nlly  frozen,  lies  at  the 
kise  of  the  ro«k.  'I'he  water,  however,  is  not 
fro/rn,  and  the  fleecy  snow  on  its  bank  is  xof 
•.now     it  is  salt. 

Our  jolting  conveyance  pursues  its  uneven 
course  u|)  a  narrow  mountain  pass,  the  source 
of  this  remarkable  stream  of  salt.  The  landscape 
beromcs  njore  and  more  strange.  In  plates  the 
Mjil  is  studded  with  deep  hohrs,  in  others, 
covered  with  blister  like  f(jrmations  ;  there  is  no 
trace  of  vegetation,  all  is  a  desolate  waste,  akin 
to  the  surface  of  the  moon  as  revealed  to  us  by 


with  a  frost-rime  composed  of  tiny  and  inima 
culatc  crystallizations,  which  emit  a  crarklmg 
sound  under  one's  tread.  A  lakelet  with  tleep 
blue  water  lies  still  and  quiet  in  a  frame  of 
dazzling  white  ;  its  water  is  as  salt  as  that  of  the 
sea.  .Salt  is  every  where  -we  have  arrived  at  the 
mountain  of  salt. 

Salt,  such  as  is  comL.wnly  used  for  household 
pur])oses,  is  derived,  as  we  all  know,  from  the 
evaporation  (jf  salt  water  ;  but  salt  is  also  tbund 
in  the  soil  in  a  natural  state,  when  it  is  known 
as  rock-salt.  In  the  latter  case  it  is  generally  in 
the  shai)e  of  subterraneous  reefs,  which  are 
worked  in  the  same  fashion  as  coal-niines.    Such 


A    MOUNTAIN    Ol'    s.\i;r. 


335 


deposits  arc  met  with  in  France  in  the  depart- 
ments of  the  I  sere  and  Savoie  ;  l)Ul  more 
especially  in  Roiimania,  in  Poland,  and  at 
Wielic/ka,  in  Austria. 

Here  at  ("ardona  the  salt  has  gushed  from 
the  earth.  This  extraortlinary  phenomenon 
was  doubtless    prddueetl   Ijy  some    antedihu  iaii 


and  are  then  broken  up,  to  be  subsetjucntly 
ground  by  machinery.  Nor  does  the  rain  when 
gliding  down  the  hard  and  compact  mass  have 
any  efiect  on  it  ;  it  can  hardly  be  said  to  melt  it, 
contenting  itself  with  cutting  ([uaintly  carved 
gullies  alcjng  its  flanks.  Occasionally,  however, 
after  a   thunderstorm,   a  fragment  is    detached 


From  (I  ritoto.  /■)! 


A    uKDITO    IN    TIIK    HliAKT    Ol-'    THE    MOUNTAIN 


[/'ait/  ii/uycr. 


cataclysm,  at  a  lime  when  the  ocean  partly 
covered  what  are  now  continents  and  its  waves 
dashed  against  the   Pyrenees. 

It  is  estimated  that  the  mountain  itself 
contains  500,000,000  tons  of  salt.  Now,  as 
France  consumes  some  700,000  tons  of  salt 
yearly,  it  would  take  her  something  like  seven 
centuries  to  dispose  of  this  huge  mountain. 
Hence  it  is  that  its  partial  exploitation — which 
produces  annually  4o,ooofr.  seems  to  have 
had  hardly  any  appreciable  effect  on  it.  Pieces 
like  slabs  of  marble  are  cut  out  of  its   Hanks 


from  the  mountain-side  and  rolls  a  little  way 
down.  Salt  attracts  lightning,  and  a  magnificent 
spectacle  is  presented  when  the  lightning  flashes 
dart  across  the  skv  and  converge  on  the  scintil- 
lating mouiuain.  .\t  such  times  it  is  wise  to 
stand  at  some  distance  away  from  the  peak.  As 
to  the  blocks  thus  torn  away  by  the  ^lightning, 
they  later  on  become  more  or  less  cemented  to 
its  Hanks,  and  so  the  compact  mass  of  the 
mountain  remains  practically  the  same. 

The  mountain  possesses,  liowever,  one  formid- 
able  foe  who   slowly,  but  relentlessly,  gnaws  it 


336 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE, 


from  the  inside.  Scattered  about  in  the  moun- 
tain are  tiny  openings — "monkey  holes"  they 
are  locally  styled — and  from  out  of  each  of  these 
comes  a  rivulet,  so  tiny  that  it  seems  powerless  to 
do  harm.  Kut  Httle  by  little  these  subterranean 
springs  drill  their  way  through  the  entire  thick- 
ness of  the  mountain,  digging  out  long  tunnels 
into  which  the  visitor  may  enter  if  he  be  so 
inclined.  The  guide  accomi)anying  him  will,  how- 
ever, begin  by  warning  him  that  it  is  prudent  for 
him  to  make  his  will  ere  doing  so,  since,  owing 
to  the  destructive  work  of  the  tiny  streams,  con- 
tinual salt-slides  occur  in  the  narrow  channels. 
IJIocks  of  salt  weighing  from  fifty  to  a  hundred 
kilos  are  liable  at  any  moment  to  crash  down 
upon  the  ex()lorer,  crushing  him  like  a  fly — the 
sound  of  one's  voice,  the  weight  of  one's  body 
on  the  soil  being 
sufficient  to  de- 
tach them  from 
the  roof.  Let  the 
visitor,  however, 
proceed    a    few 

steps   farther: 

from    the    ceiling 

depend  stalactites 

of  salt   of  imma- 

cuhite    whiteness, 

to  all  appearances 

chandeliers  ;    the 

streamlet  seems 

to     flow    along    a 

crystal    bed,    and 

the  drop  of  water 

hanging  from  the 

shar[)    {)oint    of 

each    stalactite 

siintillates   like  a 

diamond    by  can- 
dlelight.     Sud- 

<ienly    the    guide 

pulls     you     back, 

«:a  1 1  i  M  "     V  (;  II  r 


attention  to  a  feeble  sound  akm  to  that  emitted 
by  a  squeezed  sponge  ;  it  is  hardly  perceptible 
to  the  ear,  and  yet  it  sounds  a  warning  of  an 
imminent  salt-slide,  and  it  becomes  imperative 
to  retrace  one's  steps  without  having  been  able 
to  penetrate  farther  into  the  fairylike  interior  of 
the  mountain. 

'i'he  mountain  of  Cardona  being  private  pro- 
perty, three  or  four  gorgeously-uniformed  keepers 
are  entrusted  with  the  duty  of  seeing  that  the 
inhabitants  of  the  surrounding  country  do  not 
come  and  help  themselves  to  salt ;  it  is,  how- 
ever, an  easy  matter  to  take  away  a  crystalline 
fragment  by  way  of  a  memento.  So  limpid  is 
the  substance  that  s[)ectacle-glas.ses  can  be  made 
out  of  the  more  transparent  pieces.  The  men 
employed   at   the   salt    works  turn   out   crosses, 

rosaries,  goblets, 
and  bottles,  which 
they  sell  to 
tourists  for  a  few 
[jesetas. 

The  reader  will 
perha[)s  regret 
that  this  curious 
m o u n  t a i  n  is  so 
difficult  of  access. 
Its  inaccessibility, 
however,  is  its 
safeguard.  On 
the  day  when  it 
becomes  easy  of 
access  its  destruc- 
tion will  have 
become  immi- 
nent, for  commer- 
cialism will  set  its 
grasj)  on  it  and 
will  c\[)l()il  il  on 
a  large  scale,  with 
the  inevitable  re- 
sult of  its  speedy 
disappearance. 


MINERS   HAUMNf;    Ul-    Itl.orKs   OP    SALT    I-KOM    AN    Ar.VSS. 
From  a  I'liot,,.  l-y  J'a,,/  ihuycr. 


After    the    "Mad    Mullah." 

Bv  Captain  A.   H.   Dixox,   Kixci's  African   Rifles. 

I. 

Captain   Dixon   lias  just  returned  from    Somaliland,    where    he   fought   in    two    expeditions   against  the 

Mad  Mullah,  and  raised  and  commanded  a  company  of  native  Somali  levies.     He  gives  an  interesting 

account  of  the  difficulties  and  privations  of  campaigning  in  that  desolate  portion  of  the  Dark  Continent, 

illustrating  his  narrative  with    some  striking  photographs  taken  by  himself. 


r  is  not  within  my  province  to  give 
a  liistory  of  the  operations  under- 
taken during  the  past  two  years 
against  the  wily  person  known  as 
the  "  Mad  Mullah."  I  shall  rather 
endeavour  within  the  space  at  my  disposal  to 
recount  some  of  my  experi- 
ences— humorous  and  other- 
wise— in  the  course  of  two 
years'  campaigning  under 
Colonel  Swayne. 

A  little  over  two  years  ago 
I  landed  at  Aden,  having 
gone  out  from  En<rland  to 
help  raise  the  Somali  levy 
which  Colonel  Swayne  was 
then  organizing  to  punisli  the 
Mullah  and  his  followers,  who 
had  for  a  long  period  been 
raiding  the  Somali  tribes 
under  British  protection. 

The  only  means  of  com- 
munication between  Aden 
and  Berbera,  the  chief  i)ort 
of  Northern  Somaliland,  is 
a  very  small  steamer  which 
runs  across  weekly,  taking 
over  the  mails  and  bringing 
back  hides,  the  chief  export 
of  the  country.  My  experi- 
ence of  this  boat  was  most 
unfortunate,  as,  owing  to  our 
having  to  embark  in  the  dark,  all  my  clothing 
got  taken  on  to  Ceylon  on  board  the  steamer 
by  which  I  travelled  from  I^ngland. 

There  was  a  small  raised  deck  in  the  stern  of 
the  boat,  with  a  perpendicular  ladder  leading  up 
to  it.  This  deck  was  inhabited  by  the  first- 
class  passengers — and  a  dog.  The  latter  had 
taken  up  his  abode  at  t"ie  top  end  of  the  ladder, 

Vol.  xi.-43. 


CAl'TAIN    A.    H.    OI\ON,    THE    AUTHOR. 

From  a  Photo,  by  Maull  &"  Fox. 


and  there  was  something  about  my  face  to 
which  he  objected,  for  the  moment  my  head 
appeared  level  with  the  deck  the  vicious  animal 
sprang  at  me  and  made  his  teeth  meet  through, 
my  upper  lip.  At  this  moment  a  man  in  his 
shirt-sleeves,  with  a  tumbler  in  his  hand,  rushed 
out  of  a  cabin  and,  holding 
the  glass  toward  me,  said 
"  Here,  take  this  !  "  Think- 
ing it  was  the  steward,  I  took 
it  and  drank.  My  mistake. 
The  man  was  not  the  steward, 
hut  the  doctor,  who  was  on 
the  point  of  retiring  to  bed, 
and  the  "  drink  "  was  nothing 
stronger  than  some  almost 
pure  Condy's  Fluid.  I  don't 
know  which  of  us  was  the 
more  worried  over  the  mis- 
take.    I  don't  think  he  was. 

In  due  course  we  arrived 
at  Berbera,  with  a  sort  of 
feeling  that  we  had  at  last 
really  reached  the  end  of  the 
world,  and  walked  up  along 
the  half-mile  ot  jetty  to  report 
our  arrival  at  head-quarters. 

This  being  satisfactorily 
accomplished,  we  returned  to 
look  after  our  belongings, 
which  by  this  time  had  been 
landed  on  the  wharf.  I  was 
soon  made  aware  of  one  of  the  Somali's  most 
annoying  traits,  his  weakness  for  loot,  especially 
for  such  articles  as  ropes,  straps,  and  camels  ! 
None  of  these  three  things  can  he  possibly 
resist.  During  my  brief  absence  every  strap 
had  disap[ieared  ofT  our  boxes,  even  down  to 
the  two  small  straps  on  my  gun-case,  and  we 
never  saw  them  again, 


33 


8 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


One  of  the  first  questions  I  was  asked  upon 
my  arrival  was :  "  Can  you  mark  ? "  and  I 
naturally  had  visions  of  going  into  the  butts, 
but  I  soon  found  out  my  error,  for  "marking" 
meant  marking  kit,  and  for  a  period  of  six  weeks 
or  so  I  did  little  else. 

The  day's  work  began  at  6  a.m.  with  drilling 
raw  Somalis.  This  over,  a  man  beating  a  tom- 
tom would  be  dispatched  through  the  native 
quarter  to  beat  up  fresh  recruits. 

These  used  to  come  in  about  9  a.m.,  and 
if  everything  was  satisfactory  some  of  the  best 
were  selected  and  their  names  inscribed  on  the 
roll  as  "soldiers  of  the  King.''  They  would 
then  be  handed  over  to  the  tender  mercies  of 
the  subahdar- major 
for  instruction  in  the 
elements  of  tlieir 
new  profession. 

The  .Somali  is  of 
a  very  independent 
disposition,  and  after 
a  few  days'  drill  two- 
thirds  of  the  levies 
used  to  suffer  from 
"a  tired  feeling  '" 
and  were  seen  no 
ni  o  re.  C  o  n  s  e  - 
quently,  our  great 
aim  in  life  was  to 
dispatch  our  recruits 
up  country,  where 
there  would  not  be 
the  same  tem|)ta 
tions  to  desert. 
'I'his  we  did  as  soon 
as  we  got  complete 
and  equip|)cd  a  sec- 
tion of  thirty  men. 
These  were  |)Osled 
off  to  Adailleh,  at  that  time  our  most  advanci d 
bas(;,  and  some  ninety-five  miles  distant  inland 
from  iJerbera.  An  important  item  of  each 
morning's  work  was  to  go  across  to  the  fort  and 
unpack  and  sort  bales  of  blankets  and  barrels 
of  ecpiipinent  stored  there.  I'^ach  article  had 
then  to  be  marktxl,  first  in  sets  and  then  with 
the  regiment. d  number  <jf  the  owner,  iIk  fDMiur 
with  a  paint  brush  and  a  pot  of  red  Aspinall's 
enamel,  and  ilu-  l.iiiri  wiih  ink  and  a  poinhd 
l>it  f)f  stick. 

As  I  saifl  before,  all  my  own  kit  had  gone 
on  lo  India,  and  as  I  only  possessed  one  suit  of 
while  clothing  it  soon  became  a  mass  f)f  ink 
and  paint. 

At  five  every  evening  each  section  which 
was  ready  and  supplied  with  kits  was  collected 
and  paraded,  their  equipment  served  out  to 
them,  and  off  they  started  on  their  two  days' 


■riiK  AuiiiDK  AC'riN<;  as  rp:(;imkntai,  barrek. 
I'lviii  a  Photo. 


march  to  Adadleh.  All  this  was  pretty  hard 
work,  but  decidedly  amusing,  for  none  of  the 
men  had  the  least  idea  of  how  to  put  their 
things  on,  and  one  had  to  personally  attend  to 
every  one  of  the  levies. 

In  Somaliland  it  is  not  so  much  a  case  of  "  If 
you  want  a  thing  done  7vell^  do  it  yourself,"  as 
of  "  If  you  want  a  thing  done  at  all,  do  it 
yourself,"  for  Somalis  make  excellent  audiences. 
In  the  two  years  I  was  out  among  them  there 
was  very  little  I  didn't  turn  my  hand  to. 
Amongst  others  I  was  haircutter-in-chief,  and, 
though  my  victims  suffered  a  good  deal  in 
appearance  at  first,  I  became  fairly  proficient 
after  a  short  time.      My  photograph  here  shows 

the  first  occasion  on 
which  I  acted  as 
regimental  barber. 
Having  polished  off 
my  victim,  I  am 
seen  proceeding  to 
shampoo  him. 

After  spending  six 
weeks  at  Berbera  in 
the  way  I  have  de- 
scribed I  was  very 
thankful  to  make  a 
shift,  as  it  began  to 
get  exceedingly  hot, 
and  the  continual 
strain  of  "fixing 
up "  new  men  was 
\x  ry  trying.  Accord- 
ingly I  started  for 
Adadleh.  The  first 
sixty  n)iles  on  the 
road  to  the  interior 
is  not  particularly 
interesting,  l)eing 
over  a  sandy  plain 
semi),    and  gradually 


covered    with    low   thorn 
ascending  towards  the  mountains. 

Arrived  at  Mandera  we  found  ourselves  at 
the  foot  of  the  Jirato  Pass,  in  the  (Jolis  Range, 
by  which  you  reach  tlu'  high  plateau  of  the 
Hinterland.  The  next  two  phologKi|)hs  will 
show  how  varied  are  the  characteristics  of  this 
part  of  the  country.  The  .scenery  here  is 
excjuisite  ;  huge  mountains  covered  with  vegeta- 
tion tower  on  either  side,  whilst  guinea-fowl  and 
])artridges  swarm  in  the  undergrowth.  The  pass 
itself  is  an  almost  perpendicular  climb  of  some 
three  thousand  feet,  extremely  difficult  for 
laden  camels  to  negotiate,  as  their  loads  are 
constantly  slipping.  Thousands  of  dog-faced 
baboons  clambered  about  the  hills  and  barked 
at  us,  even  venturing  occasionally  to  pick  up 
stones  and  throw  down  at  us  as  though  resent- 
ing our  intrusion. 


AFTER    '1H1-:     "MAD     xMU  1.1  A  1 1.' 


339 


I' /oil!  Ci] 


TVrlCAL   MOUNTAIN   SCENEKY  ON   THE   MARCH, 


In  most  countries,  when  one  arrives  at  the 
top  of  a  mountain,  one  expects  to  go  down  the 
other  side ;  but,  as  Dan  Leno  says,  "  Every- 
thing is  so  different  in  Japan  "  ;  and  in  Somali- 
land,  when  one  reaches  the  summit,  one 
ahiiust  always  finds,  instead  of  a  declivity,  an 
enormous  flat  plateau  stretching  away  as  far  as 
the  eye  can  reach,  and  a  good  deal  farther. 

Acladleli  is  about  seven  miles  from 
the  top  of  the  pass,  and  on  reaching 
the  summit  we  at  once  started  to  trot 
forward,  being  anxious  for  our  break- 
fasts, for  which  the  bracing  early 
morning  air  had  given  us  good  appe- 
tites. 

My  saddle  had  shared  the  fate  of 
my  clothes  and  gone  off  to  ("eylon,  so 
I  was  obliged  to  ride  on  a  native  one, 
which  was  most  uncomfortable.  More- 
over, the  stirru])-lealhers,  being  made 
of  raw  hide,  kept  on  stretching,  and 
by  this  time  were  much  too  long,  so 
that  I  had  all  my  work  cut  out  to  keep 
in  the  saddle.  However,  we  arrived 
at  Adadleh  without  mishap,  and  after 
breakfast  I  i)rf)cee(leil  to  collect  my 
company.  This  I  found  was  rather  a 
difficult  |)roceeding,  as  each  of  the  four 
sections,  who  had  been  enlisted  at 
different  times  and  had  gone  up 
country  at  various  intervals,  did  not 
know  that  they  belonged  to  one 
another,  but  were  all  drilling  as  separate 
units. 

I  had  no  interpreter  and  knew  \ery        /■><;;« ,j] 


few  words  of  Somali,  and,  whilst  most 
officers  had  a  few  natives  in  their  com- 
l)anies  who  could  speak  Hindustani, 
1,  by  some  curious  fatality,  had  none  ; 
so  in  desperation  I  enlisted  my  cook 
as  interpreter,  and  a  very  good  one  he 
I)roved  himself,  though  I  suffered 
greatly  in  consecjuence,  as  he  had  to 
be  on  parade  whilst  he  ought  to  have 
been  getting  my  breakfast  ready. 

A  month  or  so  was  spent  at  Adadleh 
in  hard  drilling  and  generally  getting 
things  ready  for  the  advance,  most  of 
our  time  being  taken  up  with  mus- 
ketry. Here,  again,  one  was  left 
entirely  to  one's  own  resources,  as 
there  was  only  one  rifle  range  with 
two  targets  for  the  whole  force,  so 
every  officer  explored  the  surrounding 
country  until  he  found  a  suitable  small 
hill,  and  there  made  a  range  for  his 
own  company.  Mine  was  about  five 
miles  distant  from  our  camp,  and  we 
used  to  march  out  at  3  a.m.  and 
shoot  till  about  ten,  continuing  again  in  the 
afternoon.  The  targets  were  made  of  rough 
calico,  stretched  over  poles  cut  in  the  jungle,  and 
the  bull's-eye,  etc.,  were  marked  out  in  charcoal. 
I  always  had  to  do  this  myself,  as  the  Somali's 
idea  of  a  circle  is  vague,  to  say  the  least  of  it. 
He  requires  a  good  deal  of  coaching,  too,  in 
the  matter  of  using  the  sights  on  his  rifle. 


\_Photo. 


HIE    FXIEDITION    TKA\KKSING    A    MOUNTAIN    PASS.   -  [PhotO, 


34° 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


The  accompanying  photo,  shows  "  E  "  Com- 
pany's rifle  range.  In  the  foreground  will  be 
seen  what  looks  like  a  pillar,  but  is  really  an 
ant-heap,  with  which  the  country  is  covered, 
especially  in  the  Haud,  where  they  often  rise  to 
a  .height  of  over  si.vty  feet.  The  Somalis  are 
naturally  very  good  shots,  and  at  target  practice 
I  doubt  if  any  natives  could  be  found  to  beat 
them,  but  they  are  so  excitable  that  in  actual 
fighting  they  generally  forget  all  about  their 
sights  and  fire  wildly  into  the  air,  or  the  back 
of  your  head  if  you  happen  to  be  in  front  of 
them. 

They  used  to  be  exceptionally  keen  on 
their  target  prac- 
tice, and  there  was 
great  competition 
between  the  sec- 
tions. Whenever 
a  man  made  a 
liull's-eye  the 
markers  used  to 
rush  out  and  do 
a  wild  war-dance 
in  front  of  the 
targets  ;  whereas, 
if  anyone  missed, 
all  the  other  levies 
used  to  jeer  at 
hini. 

r.urao  was  the 
place  chosen  for 
our  next  base,  and 
companies  were 
gradually  moved 
there.  On  the 
way  two  officers 
belonging  to  different  columns,  on  nearing 
ramp,  trotted  ahead  of  their  men  and  lost  their 
track.  After  two  days  both  were  discovered  in 
an  exhausted  condition,  as  all  they  had  got  with 
them  was  a  small  bottle  of  water  each. 

The  native  has  the  most  marvellous  instinct 
U>r  finding  his  way,  and  seldom  loses  his 
(lireriion  even  in  regions  where  he  has  never 
been  before.  It  is  not  advisable,  even  though 
one  knows  the  surrounding  country  thoroughly, 
to  venture  out  without  a  native,  as  the  bush  is 
generally  so  thick  and  the  tracks  are  so  indistinct 
that  it  is  ea.sy  at  any  moment  to  wander  off  the 
road,  when  every  effort  to  regain  the  track  will 
only  lead  one  farther  astray. 

1-ife  at  lUirao  proved  to  be  much  the  same  as 
at  Adadleh,  ex(ej)t  that  the  men  knew  a  little 
more  about  their  work  as  soldiers. 

The  force  was  now  divided  into  two  divisions, 
the  first  and  second  corps,  between  them 
there  was  great  rivalry,  which  proved  exceed- 
ingly useful  in  stimulating  their  ardour  for  work, 


THE   RIFl  E   RANGE  CAI'TAIN    DIXON    IMPROVISED  FOR    HIS   COMI'ANV   AT   ADADLEH 
—  WHENEVER    A    MAN    MADE   A    BULI,'s-EVE   THE    MARKERS    USED   TO    IJI>    A 

From  a]  war-dance  in  front  of  the  targets.  [I'/wfo. 


but  occasionally  led  to  rather  disconcerting 
results.  One  day  we  organized  some  inter- 
corps  athletic  sports,  which  eventually  ended  in 
a  free  fight.  All  went  well  for  the  first  two  or 
three  events,  but  in  the  half-mile  race  enthusiasm 
reached  its  highest  pitch,  and  about  one 
hundred  yards  from  the  finish  one  of  the 
spectators,  seeing  a  man  in  another  company 
winning,  rushed  out  and  "  collared  him  low." 
After  this  there  was  a  scene  of  indescribable 
confusion,  everyone  picking  his  man  and  going 
for  him,  while  the  officers  rushed  in  with  any 
bludgeon  they  could  lay  hands  on  and  tried  to 
separate  the  combatants.  Peace  was  not  re- 
stored for  a  good 
quarter  of  an 
hour,  and,  though 
no  one  was  seri- 
ously hurt,  some 
of  the  competitors 
for  other  races 
were  unable  to 
take  part  in  any 
further  proceed- 
ings that  day. 
Excitability  is  the 
Somali's  chief 
fault,  for  on  the 
least  occasion  he 
com[)letely  loses 
control  of  himself 
and  does  things 
of  which  he  is 
ashamed  after- 
wards. 

It  was  at  Burao, 
after  the  finish  of 
the  first  expedition,  that  we  taught  the  levies  to 
play  hockey,  over  which  they  were  most  enthu- 
siastic, though  they  entirely  refused  to  recognise 
any  rules,  such  as  "  off-side,"  "  sticks,"  etc.  ;  all 
they  cared  about  was  that  there  was  a  goal,  and 
a  ball  to  be  got  through  it  somehow.  We  had  no 
proper  hockey  sticks,  but  they  could  cut  excel 
lent  ones  in  the  jungle ;  generally,  however, 
they  were  too  lazy  to  go  out  to  do  so,  and  used 
to  appear  on  the  ground  at  the  last  moment 
armed  with  any  sort  of  weai)on,  from  a  spade 
handle  upwards.  These  they  used  to  whirl 
round  their  heads,  not  caring  the  least  what  they 
hit,  whether  it  happened  to  be  a  bystander's 
head  or  the  ball  or  anything.  During  the  game 
the  spectators  used  to  crowd  round  and  cheer 
vociferously,  and  generally  grew  so  excited  when 
the  ball  got  anywhere  near  the  goal  that  they 
would  join  in  as  well  until  we  suddenly  found 
we  were  playing  about  forty  a-side.  Then  the 
game  had  to  be  stopped  and  the  jjlayers  sorted 
out. 


Al-TER    Till': 


MAD     MULLAH." 


341 


When  we  left  Burao  we  advanced  south-east 
in  the  direction  in  which  the  Mullah  and  his 
following  were  reported  to  be,  and  a  terrible 
business  it  was 
getting  off.  \\'e 
had  some  five 
thousand  camels 
w  a  i  t  i  n  l;  to  be 
loaded  up  with 
every  description 
of  burden,  and 
being  very  short  of 
officers  (some 
twenty  in  all  for 
the  whole  force) 
we  all  had  to 
work  our  hardest 
to  get  things 
moving.  The  na- 
tives  are  wonder- 
fully good  when 
they  once  know 
exactly  what  their 

work  is  and  what  their  loads  are,  and  when  once 
started  give  little  or  no  trouble,  but  the  pre- 
liminary start  is  always  a  very  long  and  trying 
process. 

I  again  experienced  the  Somalis'  rope-looting 


SOiMAl.IS    FLAYING    HOCKEY   AT    BUUAO 
ANY   RULES,    AND    DIO    NOT  CARE  WHET 

From 


noticed  a  small  piece  sticking  out  of  the  ground 
under  a  tree  ;  so  scratching  up  the  ground  all 
round   I    found   I    had    lit   upon  some  looter's 

hidden  store,  and 
in  a  few  minutes 
collected  enough 
to  fill  two  sacks, 
and  more  than 
enough  for  all  my 
requirements. 

\S e  used  to 
march  about 
twenty  miles  a 
day.and  nothingof 
interest  occurred 
until  the  arrival 
at  our  camp  of 
Major  Bey  no  n, 
D.S.O.,  with  some 
three  thousand 
camels  he  had 
captured.  That 
same  afternoon 
we  moved  forward  to  Assoura,  having  left 
Captain  McNeill  (now  D.S.O.),  with  the  second 
column  and  most  of  the  heavy  baggage,  en- 
trenched in  the  zareba  at  Sanala.  This  he 
next  day  made  famous  by  absolutely  defeatmg 


THEV    ENTIRELY     REFUSED    TO     RECOGNISE 
HEK  THF.Y  HIT  THE  BALL  OR  ONE  ANOTHER. 

a  Photo. 


A^^^^^^vn..  _-,        j£>:-i 

W/M 

L .o^^^n 

t^F'>. 

^  -^^^ 

H^^53BH|fc»?'^^^^*^         ^^^^fi^^>-  ■ 

7^      ^ 

m*  ^" 

1 

=^.-/ 

THE   CAMELS   (H     THK    KXI'I'DITION— THERE    WERE    FIVE    THOUSAND   OF    THEM,    AND    THEY   CAUSED    Mi  >  H     !>'     '   1  IF. 

From  a  Photo. 


propensities,  for,  being  on  rear  guard,  the  load- 
ing up  of  anything  left  behind  devolved  on  me 
and  my  com[)any,  and  though  there  should 
ha\e  been  ample  rope  left,  not  one  piece  could 
I   find,      lilventually,     while     hunting    about,    I 


the  Mullah's  army,  which  attacked  him  three 
times  in  overwhelming  force.  The  follow- 
ing snap-shot  shows  the  Somalis  making  this 
zareba  ;  and  the  next  picture,  a  typical  encamp- 
iiunt.       During   the  night,   while    encamped  at 


342 


THE    WIDE    WORLD     MAGAZINE. 


h'rorit  a  I 


SOMALIS  GATHF.Ur.O   Tl  I' lUN-HUSIIES    TO    liUIIO 


Assoura,  wc  heard  a  great  number  of  hyenas 
howHii;^  all  round,  and  it  subsequently  turned 
out  that  the  Mullah  had  intended  rushing  our 
ranif),  but  he  had  been  persuaded  to  first 
altark  what  he  considered  the  weaker  force. 
The  hyena  calls  were  made  as  a  signal  to  his 
men  to  withdraw  from  our  vicinity.  We  next 
|ir()if«'dL-d  over  an  enormous 
(ipcii  plain,  and  about  midday 
came  to  a  large  "  buUi,"  or 
wat«;r  hole,  where  we  halted. 

W'alfT  had  lx?cn  very  scarce 

up   to    now,   and    bathing    of 

any   di-scription  quite  out   r)l 

'|in-stion,     so     evi-ryon(; 

•  d     the    opportunity    and 

indulgt.d    in    a   swim.      'Ihis 

ni:  is  de|)icted  on  the  next 

Thert-  were  a  certain 
numlKT  of  the  enemy's  h(irse- 
mrn  hanging  about  in  the  (ar 
<list.uicc,  and  a  .Maxim  gun 
was  turned  on  them,  but  they 
kept  well  out  of  range.  It 
w.is  a  curious  s|)ectacle  of 
p'.Kf  and  war  to  see  many 
«)f  us  quietly  having  break 
f^'  '  and  ollurs  bathing, 
ill'"  the  Maxim  gun  ki|>t 
liruig  away  merrily.    Now  and 


then  a  white  head  would  be  thrust 
out  of  the  water  and  mquire  if 
anything  had  been  hit. 

Anyone  who  has  followed  the 
course  of  the  .Somali  expedition 
knows  of  the  defeat  of  the  Mullah 
by  Captain  McNeill,  and  our 
subsequent  pursuit  of  him  and 
the  remnants  of  his  followers  for 
over  fifty  miles  through  the  moun- 
tains and  into  the  waterless  Haud, 
where  he  managed,  owing  to  the 
darkness,  to  make  good  his 
escape,  though  the  greater  part 
of  his  immediate  retinue  were 
slain.  Some  considerable  period 
elapsed  after  this  before  the  Battle 
of  Firdidin,  which  terminated  the 
first  campaign,  and  the  interven- 
ing time  was  spent  in  jjunishing 
the  tribes  by  looting  their  animals. 
The  greater  number  of  the 
enemy  had  never  seen  a  rifle 
previous  to  this,  and  it  was  quite 
comic  to  see  their  fear  of  them, 
the  men  throwing  down  their 
spears  and  darting  into  the  thick 
bush  at  sight  of  the  gleaming 
barrel.  If  they  only  knew  it,  the  native  with  a 
spear  is  much  more  dangerous  than  the  one 
with  a  rifle,  as  the  latter  almost  invariably,  in 
the  excitement  of  the  moment,  blazes  off  into 
the  air,  making  a  great  noise  but  harming  no 
one. 

A  Somali,  if  taken  unawares,  will  first  throw 


yjio/o. 


COUt;i-.K  OF   THE  CAMP. 


[Photo. 


AI-"I'KR     rilK 


MAD     MnLI.AlI. 


From  a] 


DK   XVA  1  i:kin( 


I'LACE. 


away  his  nrms  and  then  gradually  proceed  to 
disrobe  himself  as  he  runs  of  each  article  of 
attire,  until  eventually  he  is  stark  naked,  the 
idea  being  that  his  pursuer,  whose  avarice  he 
well  knows,  will  be  bound  to  stop  to  pick  up 
the  discarded  clothing,  the  fugitive  thus  gaining 
a  certain  amount  of  ground  for  each  article 
drnj)ped. 

St)malis  are  entirely  nomadic  in  their  habits, 
and  a  tract  of  country  which  you  visit  one  day 
and  find  covered  with  huts  may  not  show  a  sign 
of  life  a  couple  of  days  afterwards.  Everything 
depends  on  the  rain,  for  the  people  are  pastoral 
and  rely  on  their  flocks  and  herds  for  their 
sustenance,  often  living  for  months  on  nothing 
but  milk.  A  p7-flpos  of  this,  we  met  a  man  one 
day  in  the  Haud,  coming  along  in  a  great  hurry, 
and  stopped  him  to  find  out  what  was  the 
matter.  He  said  he  had  heard  that  rain  had 
fallen  al)out  ten  miles  away,  and  he  was  going  to 
get  a  drink,  as  he  hadn't  had  one  for  seven 
moiitiis  !  This  sounded  rather  startling,  and  we 
tc)l<l  him  that  he  had  better  hurry  and  not  delay 
on  our  account,  but  we  should  like  to  know 
before  he  went  how  he  had  managed  to  get  along 
all  that  time  without  one,  and  he  then  told  us 
he  had  been  living  entirely  on  milk. 

'i"he  tribes  have  each  their  regular  grazing 
grounds,  to  which  they  go  at  different  seasons 


of  the  year,  according  to 
the  rainfall.  On  the 
march  each  camel  car- 
ries three  mats,  called 
"  herios,"  made  of  grass, 
and  tied  on  each  side 
are  thin,  semi  -  circular 
sticks.  On  arrival  at  a 
camping  ground  the 
camels  are  unloaded  ; 
each  subsection  of  the 
tribe  selects  a  piece  of 
ground,  makes  a  small 
zareba,  and  proceeds  to 
juit  up  huts.  This  is 
always  done  by  the 
women.  The  semi- 
circular sticks  are  first 
planted  in  the  ground 
and  tied  together  with 
the  loading  ropes,  and 
the  mats  are  then  spread 
[/;•'.  thickly  over  the  top,  thus 
making  a  very  warm, 
rainproof  dwelling,  which  can  be  pulled  down, 
loaded  up  on  the  camels,  and  moved  away  with 
great  rapidity  on  the  approach  of  danger. 

One  of  the  most  extraordinary  features  about 
these  people  is  their  ability  to  live  for  a  lengthy 
period  on  nothing  but  meat  without  getting  ill, 
and  during  both  the  expeditions  nothing  was 
taken  for  them  in  the  way  of  food  that  could 
not  walk  on  its  own  legs. 

On  the  igo2  expedition  the  men  subsisted 
solely  on  meat  for  over  six  months.  Camel  is 
the  usual  ration  and  the  one  they  generally 
prefer,  one  camel  being  sufficient  for  one 
hundred  men  for  one  day.  I  myself  once  had 
nothing  else  but  camel  meat  and  milk  for  ten 
days,  and,  though  I  cannot  say  I  am  partial  to 
it,  it  might  be  worse  in  flavour — it  is  more  like 
strong  goat  than  anything  else  I  know.  The 
camel  is  a  curious  beast,  and  doesn't  seem  to 
object  in  the  least  to  being  killed  ;  in  fact,  he 
takes  everything  as  a  matter  of  course.  He  sits 
down  very  (juietly  and  doesn't  protest  in  the 
least  when  his  throat  is  cut  ;  he  is  then  skinned, 
and  still  you  see  him  sitting  in  the  same  attitude 
of  contentment,  only  skinless  ;  and  when  tlie 
meat  is  all  cut  off  the  skeleton  remains  sitting 
in  the  same  position,  and  it  will  probably  be 
found  in  exactly  the  same  position  if  the  spot  is 
revisited  six  months  or  a  year  later. 


{To  be  concluded.^ 


A  Unique  Summer  Residence. 

A   COL'MRV    HOUSE   ON   'rHE   TOP   OF    MONT    BLANC. 

Kv  C.   E.  Johnstone. 

An  account  of  the  remarkable  Observatory  House  and  refuge  for  mountaineers  which  Monsieur  Vallot, 
a  wealthy  French  climber,  has  erected  on  the  top  of  Mont  Blanc.  The  refuge  has  been  the  means  of 
saving  many  lives,  but,  curiously  enough,  has  been  "  burgled  "  no  fewer  than  three  times  in  three  years  ! 


COUNTRV  house  on  the  top  of 
Moiitlilanc!  Only  an  enthusiastic 
scientist  would  have  an  adequate 
motive  for  wishing  to  possess  a 
residence  more  than  fourteen  tliou- 
sand  feet  above  the  sea-level.  No  one  but  an 
ardent  mountaineer  would  be  likely  to  conceive 
such  an  idea,  and  no  one  but  a  man  of  con- 
siderable means  and  indomitable  energy  could 
possibly  carry  it  out. 

Su'.'h  a  conibinution  of  qualifications  is 
no  doubt  rare,  but  it  has  been  found  in  the 
f)erson  of  .Monsieur  Joseph  Vallot,  who  many 
years  ago  succumbed  to  the  remarkal)le 
fascination  which  the  great  white  mountain 
seems  to  exercise  over  all  those  who  have 
learnt  to  know  and  love 
its  glistening  snows. 


In  the  interests  of  science  Monsieur  Vallot 
determined  to  build  an  observatory  near  the 
well-known  "Dromedary's  Hump,"  which  lies 
in  the  declivity  between  the  Dome  du  Gouter 
and  the  actual  summit  of  Mont  Blanc. 

A  similar  idea  was  also  simmering  in  the 
brain  of  Dr.  Janssen,  the  director  of  the 
observatory  at  Meudon,  near  Paris.  This 
fiery  little  devotee  of  science,  though  over 
seventy  years  of  age  and  a  cripple,  caused  him- 
self to  be  pushed  and  dragged  upon  a  sort  of 
sledge  by  an  army  of  guides  until  he  stood 
upon  the  summit  of  the  highest  mountain  in 
liurope.  There  he  proposed  to  erect  an 
observatory  in  which  instrumetits  could  be 
placed    that    would    automatically    record    the 

variations  of  temperature 
d  chances  of   weather 


<lKlr;iNAI.   VAI.I.OT    REFUGE. 

J-'roiii  a  I'ho/o. 


A    UNIQUE    SUiMMER     RESIDENCE. 


345 


at  a  height  of  nearly  sixteen  thousand  feet  above 
the  sea. 

The  funds  for  this  enterprise  were  provided 
by  various  French  financiers,  including  a  mem- 
ber of  the  famous  Rothschild  family,  and  for 
the  actual  construction  recourse  was  had  to 
Monsieur  Eiffel,  tlie  architect  of  the  Babel- 
like  tower  that  bears  his  name. 

'I'o-day  the  Janssen  Observatory  on  the 
summit  of  Mont  Blanc  testifies  to  the  remark- 
able courage  and  untiring  energy  of  the  French 
doctor. 

But  an  observatory  of  this  kind  did  not  satisfy 
the  ambition   of  Monsieur  Vallot.      He  wished 
for    a    house    in   which    he,   and  other    etjually 
ardent  doctors  of  science,  could  live 
for  days  and   even  weeks  together, 
in  order  to   take  observations  and  /^ 

record  phenomena  which  are  beyond  ' 

the  reach  of  mere  automatic  instru- 
ments left  to  themselves.  t 


Grands  Mulcts,  the  charges  of  which  were  not 
long  ago  the  sul)ject  of  a  discussion  in  the 
newspapers. 

In  spite  of  all  these  difficulties  Monsieur  \'allot 
started  in  1890  to  build  his  observatory  on  the 
Bosses  du  Dromadaire,  and  at  the  same  time, 
having  at  heart  the  interest  of  the  mere  moun- 
taineer as  well  as  the  meteorologist,  he  erected, 
at  a  cost  of  over  six  hundred  pounds,  a  refuge 
at  which  "  ascensionists  "  might  find  shelter  from 
the  wind  and  snow.  The  building  of  the 
observatory,  after  the  materials  had  with  infinite 
difficulty  been  transported  to  the  site,  occupied 
one  hundred  and  ten  guides  and  porters  for  a 
week.     The  refuge  has  saved  the  lives  of  many 


IIIK    VAI.I.OT   OUNEUVAl'OKY    AND    REKUGE— IT   TOOK    A    HUNDKEIJ    AND   TEX    MEN 

From  a]  a  week  to  builu.  [Photo. 


The  difficulties  in  the  way  of  carrying  out 
such  a  scheme  seemed  absolutely  insuperable.' 
I^verything  would  have  to  be  carried  up  the 
iiunmlain  by  porters,  and  the  maximum  weight 
that  they  will  undertake  is  thirty-five  pounds. 
.\t  these  altitudes  the  rarity  of  the  atmosphere 
makes  breathing  extremely  ditificult,  and  ih 
many  cases  causes  acute  mountain-sickness,  so 
that  half  the  workmen  employed  would  probably 
be  on  the  sick-list  most  of  the  time. 

As  if  these  difficulties,  however,  were  not 
sufficient,  the  Commune  of  Chamonix  began  to 
place  obstacles  in  the  way,  on  the  assum{)tion 
that  a  house  of  this  kind  on  the  Bosses  du 
Dromadaire  might  interfere  with  the  inn  on  the 

Vol.  xi.-    ' 


mountaineers,  and  it  was  this  [)lace  which  the 
two  unfortunate  Frenchmen  were  vainly  trying  to 
find  on  the  night  of  August  8th,  1902,  when,  for 
want  of  some  adequate  protection  against  the 
icy  cold,  they  lay  down  on  the  snow  and  died. 

But  the  Vallot  Observatory  is  something  very 
different  from  either  the  Janssen  building  or  the 
ordinary  Alpine  hut,  of  which  many  specimens 
are  to  be  found  perched  aloft  among  the  peaks 
of  the  various  .Swiss  mountains. 

It  is  really  a  small  eight-roomed  house,  erected 
at  a  cost  of  about  four  thousand  pounds,  con- 
taining the  necessities  and  even  the  luxuries 
that  are  required  for  a  stay  of  several  weeks  on 
the  mountain-top. 


346 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


THE   blTTING-IiOOM    IS    KURNISIIEO    IN   JAI'ANESE   STYLE. 

From  (I  Photo. 


^ 


'rhcre  are  a  bcdnjom  and  sitting-room,  the 
latter  l)cinf^  ronifortaljly  and  even  elegantly 
furnished  in  the  Japanese  style. 
The  kitchen  contains  a  plentiful 
sup|)ly  of  cooking 
utensils  and  hottles, 
while  the  well  filled 
Htorc-rooni  testifies 
lo  the  (are  that  has 
been  hestowed 
U|)on  the  «oimnis 
sarial  department. 
<  >n  the  table  in  the 
dining  room  is  to 
Jh:  seen  not  only 
a  Ixjttle  of  chain 
iwgne,  but  also  an 
U|Ktodatc  s|)arklel 
siphon,  with  which 
to  aerate  tlie  snow 
watt  r  that  is  ob 
laiiied  on  the 
summit.  Ii>  the 
instrument-  room 
arc  aerometers,  -"^ 
'«r  "         ,nd 

s|"  ,     .  as 

well  as  a  niiml«r 
of  instruments 
the    very    names 

of  which  are  Ix.th  unknown  and  un 
intelligible  to  the  ordinary  amateur 


There  is  a  photographic  room,  too,  where  the 
photographs    with    which    this    article    is    illus- 


n — 1    "       —       —        — - —    —    

trated     were    developed,    and    a    guides' 
room,    where   several   sturdy  sons   of  the 


THK    KITCMKN   CONTAINS    A    ILKNTIPUL   SUI-l-LV   OF    COOKING 

/•roma]  UTENSILS  ANn  bottles.  [P/io/o. 


A    UNIQUE    SUMMER    RESIDENCE. 


347 


mountain  may  be  seen 
resting  after  a  hard  day's 
work. 

The  laboratory  contains  an  electric  battery, 
and  is  in  every  way  as  well-equipped  as  if  there 
were    no    fourteen 
thousand    feet    in- 
tervening   between 
it  and  the  sea-level. 

.Monsieur  Vallot 
is  always  glad  to 
place  his  observa- 
tory at  the  disposal 
of  enthusiastic 
scientists,  his  only 
stipulation  being 
that  they  shall  take 
u|)  with  them  at 
their  own  expense 
one  of  the  guides 
whom  he  employs 
regularly  in  con- 
nection with  the 
building,  to  do  the 
cooking  and  look 
after  the  house. 

One  would  natu- 
rally imagine  that, 
having  selected  a 
site  some  thou- 
sands of  feet  alun'e 
the  snow-level,  one 
of  the  dangers  that 
one  would  not  have 


to  guard  against 
would  be  burglary. 
Unfortunately, 
Monsieur  Vallot's 
experience  goes  to 
prove  that  even  at 
that  height,  though 
the  professional 
with  the  "jenuny" 
and  centre-bit  may 
find  no  attractions, 
the  amateur  house- 
breaker with  more 
primitive  instru- 
ments and  methods 
does  not  hesitate, 
when  occasion 
arises,  to  break  into 
the  private  resi- 
dence and  calmly 
make  use  of  the  pro- 
visions stored  there. 
Three  times  during 
tile  past  three  years 
has  "  burglarious 
entry  "  of  this  kind  been  effected  into  Monsieur 
Vallot's  house,  and  in  1901  a  .search  party  that 
was  sent  up  from  Chamonix  to  look  for  three 
missing  men  found  them  comfortably  seated  on 
Monsieur  Vallot's  bed,  drinking  his  liqueurs. 


ING-Kciu:ll. 


{I'lwto. 


34« 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


l^ast  year  two  Germans,  who  had  ascended 
from  the  Italian  side  without  guides,  thought 
that  the  weather  was  too  bad  to  allow  them  to 
descend,  and  so  spent  the  night  at  the  Vallot 
Refuge.  The  next  day,  although  the  sun-record 
automatically  registered  by  the  heliometer  proves 
that  it  was  quite  fine  enough  for  even  moderately 
g<jod  mountaineers  to  have  risked  the  descent, 
ihey  decided  to  remain  another  night,  and  for 
this  purjiose  they  broke  into  the  observatory,  as 
they  did  not  find  the  bare  shelter  of  the  refuge 
sufficiently  luxurious  for  their  requirements. 
Inside  the  observatory  they  found  Monsieur 
N'allot's  (involuntary)  hospitality  so  satisfactory 
that  they  did  nut  feel  inclined  to  leave  it  for 
some  lime.  Having  Inirnt  the  fuel  and  con- 
sunied  the  provisions  which  they  found  there 
for  several  days  ihey  came  down  into  Chamonix 
and  there  coolly  offered  to  pay  the  owner,  for 
the  things  which  they  had  used  at  the  price 
which  they  would  have  cost  at  an  ordinary  shop. 
N(jw,  seeing  that  the  lowest  cost  of  a  porter  to 
the  top  of  Mont  Hlanc  is  two  pounds,  and  that 
thirty  five  [wuntls  is  the 
maximum  weight  that  he 
is  |)repared  to  carry,  it 
will  easily  be  understood 
that  the  value  of  even  a 
tin  of  beef  on  the  Bosses 
tlu  Dromadaire  is  a  very 
difTertiit  thint^  from  its 
pri<e  in  a  (Jhamunix  shop. 
The  owner,  therefore,  in- 
dignantly refused  the  few 
paltry  francs  which  these 
worthy  si)ortsmen  offered 
him,  and  proceeded  to 
bring  an  action  against  the 
two  cln..lH.rs  for  breaking 
into  his  private  residence. 

'  '        '•   was   very 

'»••'  cd  by  some 

of  the  Continental  jour 
round  that 

•     ■■.""h   to   extort 

from  two  ••  ifwr»-pif|  c-r 
man 

.  whi(  h 
Ihey  had  eaten  when  they 
I  immii 

;  '     ,.r  


Th 

of   Ihc 

it,..        I 


'IS  view 
proved  by 


rd  clearly  showed  that 
in  .Tu  was  absolutely  no  necessity 


for  them  to  have  remained  uj)on  the  summit  at 
all.  As  a  matter  of  fact,  in  order  to  repair  the 
damage  which  they  had  done  and  replace  the 
food  and  fuel  whicli  they  had  used,  it  was  found 
necessary  to  equip  and  send  up.  a  special 
expedition  of  guides.  These  were  in  the  first 
instance  turned  back  by  bad  weather,  so  that 
a  second  party  had  to  be  dispatched.  They 
found  on  their  arrival  at  the  house  that  con- 
siderable damage  had  been  done  both  to  the 
furniture  and  the  instruments  by  the  snow 
which  had  drifted  in  through  the  window  broken 
by  the  (iermans.  Under  these  circumstances  it 
will  be  seen  that  the  owner  was  right  in  estimat- 
ing the  cost  of  the  mischief  done  in  pounds 
rather  than  in  francs.  In  consequence  of  these 
"  regrettable  incidents  "  he  has  been  obliged  to 
have  iron  bars  placed  o\er  the  windows  in  order 
to  render  them  burglar-proof. 

It  is,  however,  characteristic  of  Monsieur 
Vallot's  considerate  care  for  the  well-being  of 
climbers  that  he  has  at  the  same  time  sent  up  a 
complete   outfit   for   cooking   and   for    heating 

water  to  be  placed  in  the 
refuge,  where  it  will  be 
at  the  disposal  of  all 
comers. 

The  portrait   of   Mon- 
sieur Vallot  shows  him  in 
a     mountaineering     cos- 
tume.    Some  idea  of  his 
prowess      as     a     climber 
may    be    gathered     from 
the    fact     that     in     the 
year      1887      he      spent 
three    days  on    the  sum- 
mit   of      Mont     Blanc 
under    canvas!      Two 
years    ago,    when    living 
in     his    observatory,     he 
was  brought  out  by 
a  cry  for  aid  from  a 
German     who     had 
fallen    into    a    cre- 
vasse.  Hurrying  out 
to  the  man's  assist- 
ance without  waiting 
III  put  on  a  proper 
amount   of   warm 
clothing.     Monsieur 
Vallot  contracted 
an      illness     which 
has       unfortunately 
p  r  e  v  e  n I e  d    hi  m 
from      making    any 
j)ersonal    use    since 
then  of  his   unique 
summer  residence. 


'ersi^an. 


By  Mrs.  Chas.  Herbert,  of  Pincher  Creek,  Alberta,  N.W.T. 

The    terrible   experiences    of    a   man    who  got    lost  on    the    Canadian    prairie.     For   nine   days    and 

ten    nights    he   was    without    food    save    for   a    few    coffee-beans,    and   without    water    save    for    the 

snow — and    this    in    a    temperature    ranging  from    ten  degrees  above  zero   to  forty  degrees    below ! 

The  case  is  quite   unparalleled    in  the  annals  of  the  Great  North-West. 


N  February,  1898,  George  Nofield,  a 
Jew  pedlar,  went  out  from  Wetaski- 
win.  Alberta,  to  trade  for  fur  with 
some  Indians  who  were  camped  on 
Iron  Creek,  seventy  miles  distant. 
His  horses  got  away  from  him  one  night  in  a 
hard  snow-blow  and  left  him  alone  on  the 
prairie,  where  he  was  for  nine  days  and  ten 
nights  without  food  save  a  few  coffee-beans, 
withcnit  water  save  the  few  droQS  that  came 
from  the  snow  he  melted  in  his  parched  mouth, 
and  without  protection  from  the  cold  save  that 
j)rovidcd  by  a  racoon-skin  coat  and  a  goat 
robe  he  carried  on  his  back.  During  the  time 
that  he  was  out  the  thermometer  registered 
from  ten  degrees  above  zero  to  forty  below,  with 
strong  winds  blowing  most  of  the  time.  Nofield 
covered  about  forty  miles  from  where  his  horses 
left  him  to  where  he  was  rescued,  much  of  this 
on  his  hands  and  knees,  for  his  feet  were  frozen 
the  second  night  out.  His  experience,  all 
things  considered,  beats  any  heretofore  estab- 
lished record  of  privation  and  suffering  in 
Canada. 

The  pedlar  fought  well  for  his  life,  and  looked 
death  squarely  in  the  face.  It  was  hard — cruelly 
hard — to  endure  what   he  had  to   go  through. 


and  the  sympathy  of  those  who  read  this  tale 
should  go  out  to  him.  But  when  we,  who  were 
on  the  ground,  who  knew  his  purpose  and 
realized  the  danger  that  might  come  from 
such  an  act,  hesitated  to  accord  him  a  full 
degree  of  sympatliy,  can  anyone  wonder?  One 
of  Nofield's  packs  contained  enough  liquor 
to  have  sent  every  Indian  in  the  Wood  Cree 
band  on  the  war-path,  and,  had  they  ever  got 
it,  more  than  one-yes,  possibly  twenty  lives 
would  have  been  lost.  This  liquor  he  certainly 
intended  to  use  in  his  trading  operations. 

But  I'rovitlcnce  ruled  otherwise.  Like  the 
Jews  of  old,  Nofield  was  led  into  the  wilderness 
and  made  to  suffer  alone  for  the  idea  of  sin. 
Tlie  whisky  which  might  have  turned  a  hundred 
men  into  howling  fiends  served  a  better  pur- 
pose. It  kept  alight  the  smouldering  flame  of 
life  when  it  was  nearly  extinguished.  Such  is 
the  mystery  of  Fate.     And  now  to  my  story. 

The  morning  of  February  ist,  when  the  Jew 
left  U'etaskiwin,  broke  clear  and  cold.  He  had 
arranged  with  a  rancher,  Kendall  by  name,  to 
drive  him  out  to  the  last  house  he  would  come 
to  on  his  journey,  Charlie  Schneider's.  When 
the  mission  of  the  trader  became  known  to  the 


350 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


plainsmen  about  the  hotel,  these  latter  tried  by 
all  manner  of  arguments  to  dissuade  him  from 
making  the  attempt,  but  to  no  avail.  Noficid 
shut  his  ears  to  all  entreaty  on  their  part  and 
climbed  into  the  sleigh.  Kendall  drove  him  out 
as  far  as  1  •luihamel,  some  twenty  miles,  where  a 
man  named  )oc  Swawb  took  him  up  and  brought 
him  to  Schneider's  for  the  night. 

The  next  morning  being  an  exceedingly  stormy 
one,  Schneider  tried  to  persuade  Nofield  to  stay 
over,  but  it  was  no  use.  He  could  see  some 
trader,  in  his  mind's  eye,  securing  all  the 
bargains,  though  if  he  had  stop[)ed  ttt  think  he 
might  have  iK-en  certain  that  he  was  the  only 
man  with  sufficient  temerity  to  start  on  a  trading 
trip  in  such  weather. 

Swawb  and  Nofield  drove  in  a  south-easterly 
direction,  niaking  camp  at  noon 
in  a  cou/^g  behind  a  dense 
scrub.  While  they  were  eating 
they  were  joined  by  a  couple 
of  half-breeds,  hunting  horses, 
and  heading  for  the  south  end 
of  Wave  Like.  As  the  old 
(jerman  was  getting  a  little 
frightened  of  the  trip,  Nofield 
bargained  with  the  half  breeds 
to  take  him  to  tin-  branching 
of  the  trails. 

This  they  tlid.  Hut  they 
did  more.  When  they  broke 
camp  at  the  cou/te  they  dis- 
covered that  there  was  only 
one  loaf  l.ft  for  the  three  of 
then).  This,  with  keen  fore- 
sight, they  annexed  while  No- 
licUl  V  ,  with  his  horses. 

\-U)...    ....     jjoint   where  the 

half    bff  fds     left     Nolield     to 
-s   is,   by  trail,  thirty 
'"  ■'  'W  flies,  sixteen  long  ones.    The 

^''  is  to  Wave  Lake,  the  south  east 

trail— the  one  Nofield  took-  brings  one  to  Iron 
^  '  '  '  'is  |x»int  from  the  bran«  hiiig  of  the 
"•  ^   twelve   miles.       Nofield    claims 

'*'  '•<•  diis  trail,  but  he  must  have  got 

off  II,  fur  lie  r<Mle  steadily  for  four  hours.  He 
left  the  I  "'-  ,  ,js  at  two  o'clock,  with  his 
horses  f.i,  ),.     Now,  any  pack   "cayuse" 

will    travel    four    miles  an    hour    carrying  his 
■        'vith    light    packs    such   as 

•    ^"   e(iul(!    ■•■:'•,■   jf)^   seven 

in  the  hour.     So  that,  ,  of  following 

i»»*^   t'  '  rearhing  Iron   Creek,  his  ponies 

'""  '  •    '^'-'l    to   the  east,   .saving    them- 

lurm   which   was   coming  from 

inc  west,  and  run  |>arallel  to  the  river. 

'     f"  four  hours'  steady  riding  the 
..lit      W.n. M  ^ot  off,  hobbled 


I.KIIKI.I.     M)l'li;i   I),    AS 
HIS   Tt'KKIIII.Ii 

From  it  I'lioto.  l'y  l\ 
I'aiuou 


SA 


both  of  them,  and  then  started  to  find  a  good 
place  to  make  camp.  The  spot  decided  on,  he 
unloaded  his  packs  and  prepared  to  make  him- 
self comfortable  for  the  night.  He  gathered 
some  dry  wood,  whittled  some  shavings,  and 
tlien  at  last  discovered  that  he  had  no  matches. 
This  was  bad.  Through  his  pockets  he  went 
once  more,  with  the  same  result.  Then  he  ex- 
.  amined  his  packs :  still  no  matches.  Things 
looked  blue,  and  they  felt  cold.  But  there  was 
the  loaf  yet ;  he  could  make  a  meal  off  that  and 
start  for  the  cam[)  in  the  morning.  Once  more 
a  search  and  once  more  a  disap[)ointment.  No 
supper,  no  fire,  and  the  thermometer  failing  to 
a  point  that  made  things  decidedly  unpleasant. 

Nofield  noticed  now  for  the  first  time  that 
the  horses  were  not  eating.  Horses  live  on  the 
prairie  all  winter  by  pawing 
away  the  snow  and  eating  the 
grass  underneath.  But  with 
their  fore-feet  hobbled  together 
it  is  impossible  for  them  to  do 
this.  They  would  have  to  eat 
to  get  strength  for  the  morn- 
ing's trip,  so  he  took  off  the 
hobbles  and  turned  them 
loose.  They  looked  at  him  as 
he  gave  them  their  freedom, 
wondering,  possibly,  if  he  could 
really  mean  it ;  then  with  a 
snort  they  turned  and  galloped 
off,  leaving  the  discomfited 
Jew  to  figure  out  the  situation. 
Now  here  was  a  pretty  mess, 
but  he  made  the  best  of  it. 
Oathering  his  packs  and  plac- 
ing them  at  his  head  to  ward 
off  the  keen  wind,  he  pulled  on 
the  racoon  coat,  lay  down, 
drew  the  goat  robe  about  him, 
and  tried  to  sleep.  Hunger  kept  him  awake 
for  a  time,  but  eventually  he  dozed  off.  It  was 
his  first  niglu  alone. 

That  last  word  is  one  full  of  meaning.  Alone 
in  a  city  of  strangers,  with  the  whirl  and  roar 
of  commerce  about  him,  is  to  the  Westerner  the 
loneliest  spot  on  earth.  But  alone  on  the 
prairie,  with  nothing  save  the  stretch  of  same- 
ness all  about,  with  the  silence  of  the  sepulchre 
surrtnmding  one,  with  the  swee})  of  the  stars 
above  and  the  sheen  of  the  snow  beneath,  must, 
to  a  townsman,  be  awful.  It  was  to  Nofield. 
He  says  that  he  suffered  more  mentally  that 
night  than  he  did  at  any  other  stage  of  his 
wanderings. 

He  was  up  with  the  sun  and  ready  for  his 
journey.  What  should  he  do?  The  storm 
had  almost  obliterated  the  tracks  of  his  horses. 
Should  he  follow  them,  or  should  he  push  on 


III-:    .Mil  ,\l;l:l>    UlCl-OKli 
EXI'KHIENCKS. 

.   //.   Trucman  &' Co., 
Mr,  B.C. 


THE    WAN  OR  RING    JEW. 


351 


and  try  and  make  tlir  Indian  eiicani|)inciit  ? 
Examining  closely  the  prairie  all  about  him,  he 
decided  that  he  must  have  got  off  the  beaten 
trail.  He  would  lind  it,  and  tiien  he  could 
trace  it  down  to  the  river,  and  from  there  easily 
locate  the  encampment.  After  that  to  business. 
He  was  not  so  badly  off  after  all.  Hope,  that 
anchor  of  the  soul,  had  heartened  the  lost  man. 
'["he  shock  would  be  the  greater  when  the  fall 
came.  And  it  did  not  tarry.  Search  as  he 
would  he  could  fmd  no  track,  new  or  old.  Pre- 
sently he  had  wandered  so  far  from  his  packs 
that  he  missed  the  brush  beliind  which  they 
were  hid.  He 
stop[)ed  for  a  mo- 
ment to  get  his 
bearings.  At  last 
he  had  them — that 
clump  of  willows 
to  his  left.  He 
was  sure  that  was 
the  one,  only  to 
find,  on  reaching 
it,  that  he  had  been 
mistaken.  Again 
and  again  he  tried. 
He  must  find  his 
packs,  for  they  were 
not  cached  —  and 
if  someone  else 
should  find  them  ! 
The  soul  of  the 
man  was  being 
revealed. 

I'ind  them  he 
did  at  last— nearly 
walked  over  them 
as  he  was  heading 
for  a  clump  of 
brush  half  a  mile 
away.  He  opened 
the  packs  and 
found  the  coffee- 
beans.  These  he 
poured  into  his 
pockets  and  then 
took  a  long  pull 
at  the  whisky. 
The  liquor  scalded 
his     throat    and 

scorched  his  stomach  ;  but  it  did  him  good, 
and  he  repeated  the  dose.  His  mind  was  now 
made  up.  It  was  no  use  searching  for  the  lost 
trail  ;  he  would  pick  u[)  that  of  the  horses  and 
follow  it  back. 

Jjravely  he  donned  again  the  raccoon  coal  and 
then,  throwing  the  robe  over  his  shoulder, 
picked  up  his  packs  and  started  his  long  walk 
back   into    civilization    and   safety.      The    sun 


'hk  took  a  i.on(;  pull  at  thk  wiiiskv.  ' 


came    out  warm    and    bright  at   noontide,  and 
Nofield  became  quite  cheery. 

It  was  a  bad  enough  position  to  be  in,  he 
reflected,  but  it  might  be  worse.  Suppose  he 
hadn't  the  coffee-beans  and  the  whisky,  what 
then?  Or  if  he  had  got  out  another  day's 
journey  from  Schneider's,  then  he  would  have 
been  up  a  tree  indeed.  But  with  his  packs 
safely  cached  and  his  coffee-beans  to  eat,  he 
could  surely  make  the  (lerman's  by  the  next 
evening.  He  sat  down  on  his  packs  to  rest, 
for  his  back  had  been  paining  for  the  last  half- 
huur,  and  his  stomach  seemed  hollow  and 
empty.  A  coyote  stopped 
some  twenty  yards  off  and 
looked  him  over,  then  loped 
away  into  the  east. 

The  foolish   man  carried   his 

two  packages  and  the  robe  and 

overcoat  some  five  miles  before 

he  was  i)layed  out,  and  in  doing 

so  destroyed  mrurly  all   hope  of 

his  ever  getting  into  Schneider's, 

for  he  wasted  energy  that  should 

have    been    expended 

judiciously.     But  a  little 

sleep  would  help  him,  and 

so  off  came  the  packs  and 

on  to  the  snow  he  rolled, 

drawing    the    robe    well 

about  his  ears.      His  feet 

were  left  uncovered,  and 

^.  the  frost  crept  in  to  stiffen 

*  wl^f^vi  ^""^    harden    them.       In 

\«\^^^  '"  went,  farther  in, 

'***i«*''3  till  it  touched   the 

nerves     and     set 
them  a-tingle. 

Nofield       woke 

and    sat    up    halt 

dazed.   Looking  at 

his  watch  he  found 

that   he  had   been 

sleeping    for    fully   five 

hours.      The   sun   had 

gone  down,  but  it  had 

left  its  signal  lights  in 

the   sky   at    the   west, 

and  from  these  Nofield 

took    his   direction. 

effort    this    time,    for 

in    protest.     Then    his 


Up    he    got  —  with    an 
his  heart    rapped    hard 

feet  -  they  must  have  gone  to  sleep,  for  he  felt 
as  if  walking  on  a  thousand  needles.  His  head, 
too,  whirled  and  reeled,  but  with  a  struggle  he 
steadietl  himself.  On  he  went,  gaining  courage 
as  he  travelled,  for  he  knew  full  well  that  he 
was  heading  in  the  right  direction.  He  could 
get  his  bearings  bel^t^r  ut  night  than  in  the  day- 


352 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


time.  He  started  to  figure  out  the  distance  he 
had  travelled  since  leaving  the  first  night's  camp, 
and  got  it  all  wrong.  Ho  had  put  in  some  six 
hours  on  his  walk  back,  but  he  was  allowing  for 
a  full  day  and  night.  Hunger  was  speeding  his 
lime  too  fast. 

Presently  the  light  in  the  west  faded  slowly 
out.  He  was  still  walking,  struggling  up  a 
coulee,  and  turning  from  side  to  side  as  he  tacked 
up  the  bank,  when  the  first  light  of  the  new  day 
lit  u[)  the  east.  Nofield,  always  looking  for  tlie 
light,  hapixrned  to  be  on  the  east  tack  when  he 
cleared  the  bank,  and  again  headed  for  the 
light.  It  is  easy  to  turn  in  one's  tracks  on  the 
prairie — and  that  is  what  he  did,  all  uncon- 
sciously. Kor  the  most  part  he  was  satisfied 
with  his  ability  to  get  out  now  that  he  had  the 
proper  direction.  But  the  buzzing  in  his  ears 
and  the  jHJunding  behind  his  ribs  were  terrible. 
As  for  the  hunger  -  well,  he  had  the  coffee-beans 
as  yet.  He  had  hated  to  be  alone,  and  soon 
he  discovered  that  he  was  not.  P'ollowing 
along  behmd,  always  watching,  ever  mindful 
of  their  chances,  were  a  couple  of  wandering 
Ishnuelites  of  the  plains — timber-wolves. 

Soon  the  wanderer  noticed  that  the  light  was 
spreading  ;  ever  brighter  it  grew,  till  at  the  last 
a  new  day's  sun  [»ceped  above  the  barrenness 
alxjut  him.  Then  he  knew  that  he  had  turned 
in  his  tracks  !  Another  night,  the  second  one, 
had  passed.  Dropping  exhausted  on  the  snow, 
Nofield  lay  for  a  couple  of  hours  utterly  unable 
to  move.  Sorrow  and  despair  seized  him,  and 
he  prayed  for  death.  No  earthly  help  could 
save  him  ;  why  should  he  struggle  on  ?  He  was 
<:omfortable  now  ;  a  (|uiet  sleep  —the  sleep  that 
knows  no  waking— would  be  better  than  this 
terrible  plwlding.  The  cold  would  <lo  it  all  while 
he  slept.  Itut  then  there  were  those  wolves  ! 
The  thought  of  them  was  horrible.  Life  was  worth 
fighting  for  if  death  would  bring  them  nearer. 


roi 
way 


cli 


tor 

.1   .1 


been 


when 
Whatever 

A I. 


^^  "riung  sun    and    the   robe   made  him 
•  ;    the    gnawing    pain    inside   gave 
an     instant,    and    Nature    in    nur(  y 
|KK)r,  l(»st  lad's   eyes  in   sleep. 
no  doubt  that   Nofield  would 
destroyed    by   the   wf»lves    but    for 
that  he  carried. 

-^    -f,     '"■  r     his    shoulders, 

he    lay   down   he   drew   it   about 
it     seemed    to 


lave 

the 

In 

.-in<I 

nni. 


those    four -legged 
'  lin  they  were  wnry 


iiiir 


.If  til"-  (ikI  (,r 

days  they  disappeared 

'''       '  ■   I't    till   late  in  the  day.      A  gentle 

''"'  ^v"  and  covered  him.      The  dark- 

P^  ;   in    when     he    awoke,    with 

..ud?.  which    precluded  any   chance 

v.;  w.    ..,3. it  light  in  the  western  sky. 


His  feet  were  a  great  trouble.  They  were 
clammy  and  cold,  and  he  was  not  sure  that 
he  could  move  his  toes.  Surely  they  were 
not  frozen  !  He  would  investigate.  Off  must 
come  his  overshoe,  boot,  and  sock.  He  suc- 
ceeded in  getting  off  his  overshoe,  but  not 
his  walking-boot;  he  could  not  remove  that. 
His  feet  ivere  frozen;  but  what  of  that?  He 
had  heard  of  frozen  feet  before  that  had  been 
saved  in  the  end,  and  his  would  be  as  well.  It 
would  be  an  experience  to  tell  about  when  he 
got  in.  When  he  got  in  I  The  thought 
sobered  him,  and  discarding  shoe  and  sock 
he  pulled  on  the  overshoe  and  made  ready 
to  move — where  ? 

All  the  tracks  of  the  previous  day  had  been 
obliterated  by  tlie  snow-fall,  but,  taking  what 
seemed  to  him  to  be  the  proper  direction,  he 
gathered  up  his  robe  and  started.  He  would 
face  the  .storm,  for  he  remembered  that  they  had 
all  been  coming  from  the  west  that  winter,  and 
so  long  as  he  held  that  direction  he  was  moving 
nearer  to  safety.  After  a  few  minutes'  walking 
the  snow  seemed  to  be  coming  from  the  north- 
west, and  then  from  the  north,  for  it  was  pelting 
him  on  the  right  side.  Now  it  was  at  his  back. 
The  storm  must  be  shifting  fast.  He  was  right 
in  his  direction  ;  he  was  sure  of  that.  They 
always  are,  those  poor  unfortunates  who  die  on 
the  plains  when  the  storms  are  blowing. 

Now  the  wind  was  beating  him  on  the  left 
side,  and  now  again  in  the  face.  Just  then  he 
spied  ahead  of  him  the  timber-wolves  scratching 
and  searching  in  the  snow.  He  hesitated  for  a 
moment,  and  then  with  a  rush  came  a  revelation 
of  the  bitter  truth.  He  had  circled  in  his  [)ath,  and 
was  back  at  the  spot  from  which  he  had  started ! 

This  time  he  learnt  wisdom,  and  held  square 
in  the  face  of  the  wind  till  the  night  closed  in. 
The  storm  eased  up  a  trifle,  and  he  recognised 
some  of  the  country  he  was  in— a  belt  of  half- 
grown  timber  some  twenty  miles  east  of 
Schneider's.  If  he  had  anything  like  good  luck 
now  he  would  soon  reach  civilization. 

The  thought  was  a  cheering  one,  so  he  took 
a  long  pull  at  the  whisky  and  then  dropped  ex- 
hausted behind  a  clum|)of  close-growing  willov/s. 

Through  another  night  and  well  on  into  the 
forenoon  of  the  following  day  did  the  potent 
licjuor  hold  the  wanderer  down.  Then  con- 
sciousness returned,  and  with  it  came  fresh 
tortures.  In  [)ulling  the  cork  from  the  bottle 
Nofield  had  removed  his  mitten,  and  the 
scalding  of  the  lic|uor  had  distracted  him  so 
that  he  dio|)ped  both  bottle  and  mitten  in  the 
snow.  While  the  sleei)  was  on  his  hand  had 
become  badly  frost-bitten.  Now  he  set  to  work 
to  rub  out  the  frost  with  snow.  He  succeeded 
in  saving  his  hand,  hut  what  he  suffered  as  the 


J'llK     \\AX1)1,R1N(,;     II. W 


353 


blood  |>ushed  its  way  back  into  the  arteries  and 
veins  only  those  who  have  liatl  a  similar  ex|KTi 
ence  can  know. 

He  sat  down  and  cried  with  pain  and  despair, 
only  to  check  himself  with  a  curse  at  his  childish 
ness.  Yonder  were  satety  and  warmth  and  food 
— over  there,  past  that  stretch  of  cold  and  gloom  ; 
beyond  those  bushes  that  seemed  to  swim  before 
his  eves  like  the  chips  in  the  spring  torrents  ; 
beyond  that  ha/e  of  horizon,  that  went  so  far 
away  to  meet  the  sky. 

The  night  was  setting  in  cold — oh,  so  cold  ! 
As  he  rolled  and  staggered  along  the  crisp  snow 
squeaked  and  chirped  under  his  feet.  These 
poor,  abused  members  pulled  along  as  though 
they  were  weights  fastened  to  him.  The  ankle 
and  toe  joints  were  unbending  ;  the  .soft,  yield- 
ing snow  did  that  service.  His  heart  seemed 
to  take  up  all  loo  much  room  and  he  could  feel 
it  pounding  furiously.  I'he  cold  seemed  to 
creep  up  his  legs  from  the  icy  blocks  below 
him,  and  he  would  pinch   himself  to  see   if  he 


'I'his  was  surely  the  end.  Tne  lurking  wolves 
closed  in,  letting  out  a  howl  of  triumph,  but 
their  time  was  not  yet.  That  howl  had 
ploughed  deep  into  the  brain  of  Nofield.  It 
meant  the  last  struggle--it  meant  death.  He 
would  fight  on  I  Struggling  into  a  sitting 
posture  he  looked  about  him.  The  soft,  dry 
snow  had  got  into  his  eyes  and  blistered  them. 
']'he  wolves,  now  within  a  hundred  yards  of 
him,  hesitated,  grinned,  and  then  sat  down  to 
think  it  over.  Nofield  went  back  on  his  hands 
and  knees  to  where  his  goat  robe  lay,  and  threw 
it  over  his  shoulders.  He  gave  what  was  meant 
for  a  great  roar  to  scare  the  brutes,  but  they 
did  not  move.  Then  another,  but  it  ended  in 
a  sob,  and  again  the  poor  boy  almost  died  of 
despair. 

The  instinct  of  self-preservation  was  strong, 
however,  and  with  an  effort  he  regained  his 
feet.  Now  for  the  light  in  the  west.  Oh  !  there 
it  was.  One  long  last  struggle  while  the  dark- 
ness lasted.     His  coffee-beans  !     He  had  almost 


c 


.-^.^ 


'  PRONK   1HK    loou    IAD    IKI.I.. 


wjre  freezing  solid.  Then  the  jioor,  frost-bitten 
hand  would  burst  into  tlamc  again,  while  the 
pain  (jf  it  wuuld  tear  at  his  brain  till  his  eyes 
m(;istened. 

Hut  yonder  was  the  evening  light,  just 
ahead  was  his  city  of  refuge,  and  like  the 
Israelite  of  old  he  plunged  into  a  run.  'Twas 
a  sorry  effort  at  best,  and  it  died  early.  Prone 
the  poor  lad  fell,  all  uncovered,  for  the  robe 
had  dro|)ped  off  and  the  skirt  of  his  racoon  skin 
coat  blew  asiilc,  exposing  his  lower  liml)s. 


Vol. 


forgotten  them.  There  was  about  a  mouthful 
left,  but  he  conserved  the  comfort  gained  by 
chewing  and  gnawing  at  them  singly.  On,  on 
he  struggled,  reeling,  trii)ping,  stumbling,  but 
ever  working  to  the  west.  Long  he  looked  into 
the  distance  beyond  and  about  him  in  quest  of 
help  and  searchers,  but  none  came.  He  would 
have  to  fmish  the  battle  alone. 

The  fourth  night  had  passed,  and  Xofield, 
considering  his  awful  condition  of  mind  and 
body,   had    done    very   well.       For    nearly   one 


45 


354 


THE    WIDi:    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


hundred  hours  he  had  been  without  food,  and 
in  that  time  had  covered  over  thirty  miles  of 
the  forty  necessary  to  bring  him  to  Schneiders. 
The  lad  lay  behind  a  scrub  to  rest,  and  sleep 
stole  him  away  from  his  sufferings  for  a  full 
twelve  hours.  He  awoke  refreshed,  and  lay 
watching  the  setting  sun.  After  a  few  moments 
he  sat  up  and  looked  about  him.  His  old 
friends  the  timber-wolves  had  moved  on,  but  in 
their  place  had  come  si:eaking  coyotes.  The 
intense  cold  set  in  again,  but  the  sky  to  the 
west  was  a  blaze  of  glory  as  Nofield  straightened 
himself  for  another  effort.  His  heart  and  brain 
were  working  together  ;  the  rest  of  him  had 
died  long  -igo. 

I'Vjr  days  Nature  hail  made  no  demands  of 
him,  leaving  will  and  brain  and  courage  to 
work  out  their  own  destiny.  For  days  the 
Jew  had  been  drawing  en  his  reserve  fund,  and 
the  remnant  left  was  hardly  worth  speaking  of. 
He  slid  his  fingers  'neath  the  wristband  of  his  . 
shirt.  There  was  a  lot  of  room  now,  and  he 
rt-memlR-rcd  that  it  had  been  tight-fitting  when 
he  hail  set  out.  He  reached  his  hand  inside  his 
shirt-front  and  laid  it  against  the  bones  behind 
which  his  heart  was  pounding.  They  stood 
hard  and  .separate,  with  no  j)adding  whatever. 
He  drew  tight  the  leg  of  his  trousers  about  his 
limb,  and  found  that  he  could  almost  span  it 
with  the  fingers  of  his  one  hand.  Nature  had 
contributed  her  share.  Could  she  do  more  ? 
and,  if  so,  how  much  ? 

He  thought  of  the  drain  he  had  put  on  him- 
self in  the  cariying  of  his  packs  the  first  day,  and 
cursed  his  folly.  Ikit  it  was  no  use  worrying 
over  that  now. 

Presently  he  lei  his  eyes  wander  to  the  sky- 
line in  front.  Round  the  arc  they  swept,  till 
arrested  by  something  that  appeared  to  move 
away  to  his  left.  He  rubbed  his  poor,  inflamed 
Ik!  It,  li-arn  if  he  were  merely  dreaming.  No  ! 
it  was  a  iiorseman,  riding  at  the  fast 
If  (|tiired  by  most  plains  horses. 
'  I'  '    I<1,  waving  his  Hail  like  arms 

'"  di  ,-,n:d.       They  dropped  of  their 

«.wn  weight.  I  hen  he  took  in  a  full  l)reath  of 
I'  ir  and  yelled.     I  le  intended  it  for  a  yell, 

l'^  .  greatest  volume  it  was  only  a  stiueak. 

The  rider  did  not  see  or  hear  him,  for  the  pony 
moved  on  like  a  piei  i:  of  machinery,  and  both 
dis.-i|ip«ared  into  the  dislanc  e  beyond. 

Thne  days  after  this,  Colin  Vonge,  the  ablest 

tracker  in  the  West  country,  reported  in  VVeta.s- 

'       :>  the  death    of   the   Jew.      He  came  very 

die  truth.     Nofield  trudged  along  as  be.st 

-uld  nearly  all  the  fifth  night,  and  at  dawn 

l.ii.l    down    to    rest.       That    night    he    started 

'    ■"■      f- snow  was  not  deep  ill   iliis   serlion, 

ly  feet    made   walking    almost    im- 


possible.     He  would  fall  every  few  steps,  only 
to  rise  and  try  again. 

After  a  time  he  got  to  counting  the  steps 
between  falls.  One,  two,  three,  four,  fi\e  a 
bunch  of  tangled  grass  that  time.  Again  he 
reached  ten,  and  fell  in  a  badger  hole.  And  so 
on.  The  lad  was  making  a  good  fight,  sure 
enough.  Morning  came,  and  with  it  sleep. 
Night  closed  in  again  with  its  struggles  and 
tortures.  Again  and  again  the  same  thing  was 
repeated,  until  four  nights  and  three  days  more 
had  passed.  Sanity  and  insanity  chased  each 
other  through  the  sufferer's  brain,  each  in  turn 
master  of  the  situation,  but  still  the  thread  of 
life  held  fast.  A  quiet,  a  stupid,  unfeeling  calm 
came  over  him,  and  he  moved  like  an  automa- 
ton. Nofield  says  that  the  last  four  nights  he 
crawled  on  his  hands  and  knees,  t)ut  the  con- 
dition of  his  clothes  hardly  warrants  that 
statement. 

On  the  morning  of  the  ninth  day,  well  after 
sun-up,  Nofield  discovered  that  he  was  close 
to  some  ploughed  ground.  He  looked  again 
to  make  sure  of  it,  then  tears  of  joy  burned  and 
smarted  his  blistered  lids.  Saved !  Saved  at 
last  !  He  remembered  the  plot  of  broken  land 
as  being  a  couple  of  hundred  yards  from 
Schneider's  house.  Yes,  yonder  was  the  hut, 
and  curling  smoke  from  its  chimney  spoke  of 
warmth  and  food  and  life.  Discarding  his  goat 
robe,  he  fell  on  his  hands  and  knees  and 
crawled  with  all  possible  haste.  What  wonder 
now  that  his  heart  hammered  furiously  in  its 
effort  to  do  duty  ?  What  matter  though  the 
frozen  clay  scraped  and  scoured  his  bony 
knees  ?  Yonder  was  help  ;  a  little  way  now  and 
he  would  live  again. 

Schneider's  is  a  modest  place ;  to  Nofield  it 
was  a  palace  of  plenty  that  morning.  Do  the 
best  he  could,  it  took  the  Jew  two  full  hours  to 
make  the  half  mile  between  the  far  edge  of  the 
jjloughed  land  and  the  rancher's  hut.  It  was 
only  to  get  into  more  trouble  that  he  reached 
the  yard  gate.  The  Cerman's  dog,  with  none 
too  good  manners  at  the  best  of  times,  had  a  fit 
ot  rage  when  he  spied  this  rolling,  pitching 
creature  crawl  through  the  scrub.  He  had 
been  set  to  watch  the  ])lace  while  his  master 
went  to  see  a  brother  a  few  miles  off,  and  here 
was  this  'I'hing-  half  man,  half  beast,  with 
staring  eyes  and  bared  teeth,  chattering  and 
gasping  like  an  idiot — crawling  athwart  his  line 
of  duty. 

It  took  him  about  three  seconds  to  make  up 
his  mind  what  to  do,  and  then  poor  Nofield  had 
a  fight  on  his  hands.  Again  the  racoon  coat 
saved  the  Jew's  life,  for  certainly  the  dog  would 
have  torn  him  to  pieces  had  it  not  been  for  that 
garment.      In    the    struggle    Nofield    scrambled 


THK    WANI)I:RIN(}     ihw. 


355 


NOFIELD   EDGED   CI.OSKR   AND   CLOSER   TO   THE   DOOR. 


to  his  feet,  and,  circling  about,  with  the  great 
brute  tearing  at  him,  edged  closer  and  closer  to 
the  door.  When  he  had  nearly  reached  it  he 
undid  the  buttons  of  his  coat  and  slipped 
his  shrunken  form  loose.  Then,  with  a  plung- 
ing rush,  he  broke  into  the  house  and  closed 
the  door.  Safe  !  Safe  at  last !  Again  he  stood 
hand  in  hand  with  life. 

On  the  table  were  the  remnants  of  a  hurried 
breakfast  -some  oatrnc^nl  porridge,  a  half-loaf  of 
coarse  bread,  and  a  plate 
of  pie.  The  Jew  stared 
at  them  for  a  moment  as 
if  uncertain  of  their  use, 
then  the  hunger  -  fiend 
woke  up  and  the  man 
become  an  animal. 
Nature  was  coming 
to  her  own.  'J'hen  his 
bankrupt  system  gave 
way,  and  in  a  heap  on  the 
floor  lay  the  Jew  as  one 
dead.  So  Schneider 
found  him  when  he  re 
turned  half  an  hour  later. 

The  kindly  (Jerman 
rancher  laid  his  big,  red 
hand  on  the  lad's 
shrunken  chest  and 
found  a  drum  -  beat  of 
life.    Carefully  he  picked 


IIIIS     llliilii(;UAl'll     Ol'     NDKIKI.D    WAS    TAKKN     IN     Jl'NE, 
AFTKR    MIS    DISMISSAL    FROM    THE    HOSPITAL. 

From  a  Photo.  l<y  Mailtos,  Edmonton,  N.W.  T. 


the  broken  wreck  from  the  floor,  and  carefully 
he  laid  it  on  the  rude  bunk.  A  little  brandy 
trickled  down  the  parched  throat  first.  It 
kindled  anew  the  flickering  flame,  set  afire  the 
niMve  fuse,  then  sped  away  to  the  tired  brain 
and  woke  it  up.  Then  came  some  beef- 
tea,  as  soon  as  the  Jew  was  able  to 
swallow.  But  life,  which  had  been  so  tardy 
in  leaving,  was  long  in  returning  to  its  wreck 
of  a  home.     At  last,  however,  it  came. 

Nofield,  .  in  a  few 
hours,  was  read)'  to 
be  moved  into  the 
town.  A  bed  was 
prepared  for  him  in 
the  sleigh,  and  while 
he  slept  Schneider 
drove  his  team 
twenty  -  five  miles  to 
Dhuhamcl.  A  change 
of  horses  there  and 
then  another  twenty 
miles  into  Wetaskiwin. 
So  they  brought  the 
wanderer  home.  Once 
at  Wetaskiwin  poor 
Nofield  was  taken  to 
hospital,  where  it 
found  necessary 
1893,  amputate  both 
legs. 


was 

to 

h  i  s 


1.     FROM    LONDON    TO    THE    NIGER. 


We  have  made  arrangements  with  a  British  officer  for  an  illustrated  account  of  his  experiences  on  a 
journey  from  London  to  the  mysterious  sacred  city  of  Sokoto,  and  thence  to  Lake  Tchad.  This 
expedition,  involving  over  two  thousand  miles  of  travel  in  regions  hitherto  quite  unknown,  should 
prove  of  unique  interest,  as  the  author  was  a  member  of  the  expedition  which  penetrated  six  hundred 
miles  up  the  Niger  and  thence  marched  westward  to  Sokoto — a  city  which  had  previously  been  visited 
by  only  one  Englishman,  who  went  there  many  years  ago  in  disguise,  since  when  the  treacherous  and 
fanatical  Fulani  have  refused  the  white  man  all  access.  The  greater  portion  of  the  country  dealt 
with  is  an  absolute  terra  incognita,  being  the  hunting-ground  of  the  Tuareg,  the  Fulani,  and  the 
slave-raider.  In  this  series— the  first  detailed  account  of  the  most  important  expedition  of  recent  years 
in  British  West  Africa  Captain  Foulkes  will  deal  with  the  adventures  and  episodes  of  everyday  life 
in  the  interior,  illustrating  his  descriptions  with  his  own  photographs. 


far    less 
countries 


iri'l.lC  has  been  written  -or,  for 
that  mutter,  is  known  of  the  vast 
regions  lyinj^  between  Tinibuctoo 
and  I.iike  Tchad,  this  portion  of 
lC(|tiatorial  Afric:a  having  received 
attention  from  explorers  than  the 
situated  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
the  i;r«-.it  .\fri<  an  lakes.  .Moreover,  the  hostility 
of  the  inhabitants  coupled  with  the  deadly 
nature  of  the  coast  districts  from  which  the 
majority  (jf  the  travellers  started  have  comhtined 

to  I""' 'nh  an  extraordinary  list  of  casii"^ 

•lit!  ■    the   men   who,   either  on    their 

own  initiative  or  on  behalf  of  some  European 
country,  have  risked  the  journey,  that  much  of 
the  infiirmation  relating  to  these  parts  wliirh  has 
Iwen  collected  has  been  l(jst  to  the  world,  and 
nd  maps  compiled  under  conditions  as 
'  inter»st  as  of  discomfort  have  been 
destroyed,  owing  to  the  premature  death  of 
tlxir  i)WniTs. 

It  Is  a  significani    kk.i   m.it  even   to  this  day 
the   >.tand.ird   work    on    West    ('cntr.il    Aftir  ,    is 


1  )r.  Harth's  "  Travels  in  Central  Africa " — a 
book  written  fifty  years  ago  ! 

The  work  of  exploration  has  always  possessed 
a  great  fascination  for  Englishmen,  and,  consider- 
ing in  addition  the  possibilities  of  s[)ort  and 
the  0[)portimities  for  the  photographer  that  the 
country  in  question  affords,  it  may  easily  be 
imagined  that  an  offer  of  an  appointment  as 
Assistant-Commissioner  in  the  delimitation  of 
the  Anglo-French  boundary  of  Northern  Nigeria 
was  one  that  I  at  once  accepted. 

r)ur  party,  consisting  of  three  British  officers, 
left  Liverpool  on  the  4th  of  October  last,  fully 
equipped  for  the  long  journey. 

We  were  lucky  in  catching  the  Burn/u,  one 
of  the  newest  of  the  Elder,  Dempster  West 
African  fleet,  and  after  six  days'  steaming 
reached  Crand  Canary,  where  a  number  of 
j)assengers  usually  disembark. 

The  first  piece  of  good  fortune  befell  the 
expedition  at  Sierra  Leone,  for  1  succeeded  in 
regaining  possession,  at  Freetown,  of  a  former 
servant         l-arna    by    name  —  who    on    several 


Willi    Tin:    iiKirisii    ro  soKcrro. 


357 


From  a\ 


GOING   ASHORE    IN    A    SUKF-BOAT. 


previous  "  bush    palavers "  had  proved  of   the 
greatest  value. 

West  Coast  servants  are  ordinarily  little  better 
than  useless ;  but  this  particular  savage,  in  addi- 
tion to  doing  his  own  work  satisfactorily,  took 
general  command  of  every  expedition,  beat 
refractory  carriers,  took  charge  of  ferry  canoes 
or  rafts  across  streams,  did  his  shopping  (or 
perhaps  looting) 
for  the  mess  on 
the  way,  put  up 
tents  in  camp, 
cooked,  and 
finally  contri- 
buted to  the 
amusement  of 
everybody  round 
the  evening  fire. 

After  leaving 
Sierra  Leone  our 
captain  appeared 
to  be  in  a  hurry, 
and  we  "did" 
Axim,  Dixcove, 
Sekondi,  and 
(Jape  Coast 
Castle  all  in  one 
day.  At  the  two 
former  places  — 
small  towns  both, 
near  the  sea- 
beach  —  we  did 

not      stop       long.  j-roma] 


enough  to  go  on  shore, 
though  the  surf  seemed 
favourable  ;  but  we 
anchored  off  Sekondi 
for  two  and  a  half  hours, 
and  I  left  the  ship  in  a 
surf- boat  for  a  walk 
through  the  town.  The 
latter  is  much  more  scat- 
tered than  either  A.xim 
or  Dixcove,  and  advan- 
tage has  been  taken  of 
the  small  hills  on  which 
to  build  houses  for 
Euro[)L'ans.  There  are 
plenty  of  white  men 
here,  this  being  the  ter- 
minus of  the  Gold  Coast 
Railway. 

The  iron  pier  run- 
ning out  a  short  dis- 
tance to  sea  presented 
a  busy  scene  with  its 
two  steam  cranes  fussily 
unloading  stones  from 
the  surf  boats  alongside 
into  railway  trucks.  The  photo,  of  the  castle 
at  Sekondi  shows  that  there  are  some  pic- 
tures(]ue  bits  in  the  town,  which  can  boast  of 
a  fine  hotel.  There  I  took  tea,  but  the  waiter, 
on  being  asked  for  the  bill,  naively  replied 
that  he  would  have  to  inquire  the  amount 
from  the  manager,  as  he  had  never  before 
supi)lied  tea  to  anyone  ! 


[Photo. 


THB  CASTLE  AT  SEKONCl. 


[FJlOtO, 


358 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


On  the  arrival  of  mail 
steamers  off  these  West 
Coast  ports  a  gun  is 
usually  fired  on  board,  a 
time-honoured  institution 
which  seems  to  meet  with 
the  general  disapproval 
of  lady  passengers. 
Almost  before  the  anchor 
is  drop{)cd  a  number  of 
surf  -  boats  and  canoes 
swarm  round  the  ship, 
and  apparently  every 
inmate  of  every  boat 
wants  to  come  aboard 
first,  possibly  to  see 
what  can  be  "  tiefed." 
One  of  the  photographs 
shows  a  typical  surf-boat 
racing  to  board  our  ship 
at  Accra.  The  jabbering 
and  frenzied  excitement 
of  the  natives  are  .very 
amusing  to  watch,  and 
too  enthusiastic  paddlers 
often  find  themselves  in 
the  water  with  their  boats 

tossing  about  in  the  swell  dangerously  close  to 
their  heads,  whilst  their  companions  are  engaged 
in  a  pitched  battle  tor  precedence  at  the  ship's 
rope  ladder.     There  is,  too,  much   bustle  and 


From  d\ 


A    SURF-BOAT    RACING   OUT     In    A    VI  sMI.. 


\.rhoto. 


I  lie     M  KAMliK. 


disorder  on  deck,  where  the  cargo  is  piled  up 

ready  to  be  landed. 

The  ship's  ladder  is  used  by  passengers  for 

clambering  in  and  out  of  boats,  though  women 

and  sick  or  ner- 
vous men  are 
slung  down  in  a 
wicker  chair,  as 
s  h  o  w  11  i  11  o  n  e 
of  the  photo- 
graphs. This  is 
called,  in  coast 
parlance,  the 
"  Mammy  chair. " 
Mails  are  lower- 
ed in  a  water- 
light  cask,  which 
would  float  in 
the  event  of  the 
boat  in  which 
they  are conveyed 
being  upset  in 
the  surf  It  is 
no  easy  matter  to 
enter  a  surf-boat 
from  a  steamer 
in  the  heavy 
swell,  nor  is  the 
proceeding  en- 
tirely free  from 
danger.  The 
ordinary    sliip's 


{I'holo. 


Willi     THE    HRiriSH     TO    SOKOTO. 


;59 


ladder  is  never  used  at  these  ports,  as  obviously 
there    would    be    a    considerable    likelihood    of 
boats  alongside  being  sunk  with  the  roll  of 
the  ship. 

Canoe  and  boat  paddies  vary  very  much 
in  shape  all  along  the  coast.  At  the 
earlier  ports  we  had  only  seen  the  three- 
pronged  "Benin"  paddle.  At  Lagos, 
however,  several  new  shapes  appeared,  the 
particular  advantage  of  any  one  of  which  it 
is  difficult  to  conjecture. 

In  Sierra  Leone  no  special  variety  is 
affected,  the  paddles  used  by  fishermen  in 
their  canoes  being  very  rough  and  made 
anyhow,  provided  that  a  certain  amount  of 
flat  surface  is  obtained. 

Seventeen  days  after  leaving  Liverpool, 
at  early  dawn,  we  entered  the  mighty 
Niger  by  the  Forcados  mouth,  and  anchored 
near  the  Customs  House  a  few  miles  up 
stream,  having  passed  on  the  way  the 
French  "  Enclave, '  which,  it  will  be 
remembered,  was  one  of  the  concessions 
made  by  the  British  in  the  Anglo-French 
Convention  of  1898. 

Seen  before  sunrise,  the  great  river 
looked  very  dreary.  At  this  point  it  is 
about  two  miles  across,  and  both  banks 
are  lined  with  tall,  bright-green  mangrove 
trees,  which  rise  out  of  the  yellow  water, 


their  long, 
s|)reading  roots 
laid  bare  by  the 
falling  tide. 

Over  the 
swamps  threaten- 
ing rain -clouds 
hung  for  miles 
in  the  distance, 
and  the  only 
signs  of  life  visi- 
ble were  in  the 
shape  of  a  few 
small  dug  -  out 
canoes  anchored 
out  in  the 
stream,  their 
occupants  busily 
engaged  in  fish- 
ing. Occasion- 
ally, too,  a  flock 
of  wild  duck  or 
green  parrots 
passed  over  from 
one  bank  to  the 
other. 

When  the  sun 
rose     the     man- 
grove  swamps 
assumed    a    bright    aspect    in    many  shades  of 
green,  and  the  trading  station  of  Ijurutu  became 


THE        MAM.MV   CHAIR 

From  a\ 


IN    OPKRATION-— THIS    IS    USED    FOK    INVALIDS   AND 
.SEKVOUS    PEOPLE.  [J'JtotO. 


360 

visible    three    or 
four    miles    up 
stream,    with    its 
corrugated      iron 
sheds  and  houses 
roofed    with    the 
same  cheerful- 
looking  material. 
We     remained 
at  Forcados  for  a 
whole  day,  await- 
ing the  arrival  of 
the   river-boat 
into     which     we 
were  to    tranship 
for  the  first   por- 
tion of  our   lung 
journey     up     the 
Niger.    It  did  not 
put  in  an  appear- 
ance    until      the 
next    day,    at 
al)Oiit  1 1  a.m.,  at 
which     hour     we 
disembarked 
from  the  lUirutu 
with     all    our 
stores. 


THE   WIDE   WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


I',0,K   U-\ 


SUNSET   ON    THF.    NUiEK. 


[Photo. 


These  river-boats  are  flat-bottomed  vessels, 
drawing  when  loaded  about  three  feet  of  water. 
The  Ciovernment  has  a  fleet  of  four  of  these 
vessels,  whilst  the  Niger  Company,  in  addition 
to  a  similar  number  of  stern-wheeled  boats,  has 
four  or  five  screw-boats  of  rather  deeper  draught, 
all  of  which,  however,  can  steam  as  far  as 
I.okoja,   some   three    hundred    miles    from    the 


A   riKST  CLIMKB  OK 


J  >\>i>i  n  I'lwto, 


coast,  at  the  junction  of  the  Benue  River  with 
the  Niger.  Our  vessel — the  Sarota — was  the 
newest  of  the  Government  vessels,  and  with  its 
two  stern-wheels  steamed  up  the  silent  water- 
way at  a  speed  of  about  ten  miles  an  hour. 
Soon  after  leaving  Forcados  we  had  an  oppor- 
tunity—we had  many  more  later— of  judging 
that  the  boat  was  difficult  to  steer,  as  we  nearly 

ran  into  the  bank.  In 
fact,  we  went  so  close  to 
it  that  the  fenders  were 
all  ready  at  the  bow  when 
she  began  to  answer  to 
the  rudder,  and  we  just 
escaped  a  collision. 

A  little  way  above 
I'^orcados  there  is  a  tiny 
village  at  the  water's  edge, 
consisting  of  about  half- 
a-dozen  huts,  from  the 
nature  of  which  one  could 
hardly  form  a  favourable 
opinion  of  the  mental 
develoiinienl  of  the  in- 
lial)ilaiils.  Rickety  poles 
had  been  driven  into  the 
ground,  and  on  these, 
about  a  loot  above  what 
would  probably  be  high- 
water  level,  the  flimsiest 
of  dilapidated  huts  made 


Willi     rHI-:    BRITISH    TO    SOKOTO. 


361 


/•'roiii  (I 


llIK   OLD   GOVERNMENT    RKST-HOUSE   AT    nURUTU 


[Photo. 


of  matted  palm  leaves  hung  together.  This 
melancholy  hamlet  .goes  by  the  name  of 
"Venice  "  amongst  the  local  whites. 

After  less  than  an  hour's  steaming  we  arrived 
off  Burutu  and  made  fast  alongside  an  old  river 
hulk  which,  like  many  others  to  be  found  all  the 
way  up  the  Niger,  has  a  somewhat  interesting 
history.  Having  served  for  many  years  as  a 
trading  vessel  among  the  creeks,  it  was  placed 
on  the  retired  list  and  anchored  at  Burutu  for 
use  as  a  rest-house  for  new  arrivals  waiting  for 
the  river-boats.  Now  proper  rest-houses  exist, 
and  the  hulk  serves  the  double  purpose  of  a 
(lovernment  wharf  and  store  shed. 

Burutu  is  an  important  station  of  the  Niger 
Company,  as  its  long  iron  stores  and  coal-sheds 
testify,  but  the  nati\e  labourers  live  in  a  state 
of  the  utmost  filth  and  stjualor,  in  the  tumble- 
down sheds  and  huts  shown  in  the  picture. 

Here  and  there  we  passed  isolated  dwellings 
of  lonely  Englishmen.  What  must  be  the  life 
of  the  white  men  —  Government  agents  and 
Niger  Company's  traders — who  have  to  live  here 
month  after 
month  !  It  is 
true  they  are  de- 
cently housed, 
ijut  the  lack  of 
amusement  and 
their  desolate 
sur r o  u  n  d  i  ngs 
must  make  life 
hardly  worth 
living  in  such  a 
place. 

Burutu  native 

Vol.  xi.-48. 


town  stands  three  or  four 
hundred  yards  above  the 
trading  station,  and  is  a 
type  of  all  the  villages  in 
tlie  lower  reaches  of  the 
Niger.  The  houses  are 
very  poorly  built  of  mud 
and  wattle,  with  palm-leaf 
roofs.  They  are  rect- 
angular in  shape,  and 
there  are  generally  a 
larger  number  of  open- 
ings than  a[)[)eared  in  the 
original  architect's  design. 
The  vegetation  along 
the  banks  of  the  Niger  is 
extraordinarily  abundant; 
near  the  mouth  nothing 
can  be  seen  but  man- 
groves, some  of  the  trees 
rising  to  a  great  height. 
The  islands  already  exist- 
ing and  those  in  course  of 
formation  consist  entirely  of  these  bushes  and 
trees.  As  one  goes  farther  up  stream  patches 
of  tall  grass  can  be  noticed  on  the  water's  edge 
among  the  mangroves,  and  in  travelling  up  the 
river  one  of  the  most  interesting  points  in  a 
journey  full  of  interest  is  the  gradual  change  in 
the  nature  of  the  vegetation.  Presently  tall 
trees  appear  at  intervals  behind  a  narrow  fringe 
of  mangrove  bushes,  and,  rarely,  small  patches  of 
banana  plantations,  until  finally  the  mangroves 
disappear  entirely,  to  give  place  to  an  abundance 
of  tall,  coarse  quinta  grass  which  rises  out  of 
the  water,  in  front  of  a  glorious  muddle  of  trees 
which  would  give  a  botanist  ample  scope  for 
study.  Native  villages  built  along  the  river- 
bank  appear  at  intervals  of  some  miles,  and  their 
proximity  can  easily  be  recognised  by  the 
number  of  dug-out  canoes  which  one  sees 
drawn  up  on  the  bank,  or  nestling  half  hidden 
in  the  long  grass.  Strange  little  thatched 
erections  seen  now  and  then  in  the  dense 
foliage,  with  a  cloth  generally  hung  out  on  a  pole 
in  front,  remind  the  traveller  that  he  is  now  in 


From  a\ 


Till-:     IKADIN 


[Photo, 


362 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


the  land  of  Ju-ju  ;  and  the  little  flat  islands  in 
the  middle  of  the  river  covered  with  green  grass 
no  doubt  afford  resting-places  for  the  crocodiles, 
which  are  said  to  abound  in  the  river. 

During  the  night  sand-flies  were  very  trouble- 
some ;  in  fact,  I  had  to  get  out  of  my  bunk 
and  put  on  "  mosquito  ooots,"  bought  at 
Canary,  to  baffle  their  attacks.  The  windows 
of  the  steamers  are  fitted  with  mosquito  iron 
gauze,  which  is,  however,  of  too  coarse  a  mesh 
to  kee()  out  such  minute  torments  as  sand-flies. 
Shortly  after  sunrise  one  morning,  as  I  was 
sitting  on  duck  admiring  the  exquisite  beauty  of 
the  scenery  at  this  hour,  one  of  the  native  crew 
put  his  head  above  the  ladder  and  called  out, 
"  Massa,  dog  done  go  !  "  meaning  that  one  of  the 
three  dogs  on  board  had  fallen  into  the  water. 


sitting  in  the  bow  of  a  canoe,  paddled  out  aliead 
of  all  the  rest  after  a  big  round  tin  floating  on 
the  water.  On  coming  up  to  it  she  reached  out, 
but  missed,  and,  losing  her  balance,  fell  over 
backwards  into  the  canoe  amid  screams  of  delight 
from  the  other  competitors. 

Sagbama  marks  the  ap{)roach  to  the  narrowest 
portion  of  the  Forcados  River,  which  is  only 
fifty  yards  wide  at  this  point,  though  the  average 
width  of  the  river  above  Burutu  is  about  the 
same  as  that  of  the  Thames  at  its  mouth.  The 
course  of  the  stream  is  very  tortuous,  the  sun 
shining  sometimes  behind  and  sometimes  in 
front  of  us,  though  now  and  then  we  entered  a 
straight  reach,  perhaps  a  mile  or  two  in  length. 
'I'owards  evening  of  this  same  day  someone  drew 
my  attention  to  what  appeared  in  the  distance 


■•  ..  .  Y    .-..,  ■  ,  r.f;   OP   A   WHITE  TRADER— "  THEIR    DESOLATE   SURROUNDINGS   MUST   MAKE    LIKE    IIAKUI.Y    WORTH    LIVING." 

Front  a  Photo. 


The  vessel  was  (juickly  stopped  and  the  surf- 
lK>at,  which  was  towing  alongside,  was  manned, 
the  owner  of  the  dog  (a  fox-terrier)  accomi)any- 
it'  •  flic  crew.  Kroni  the  bridge,  looking  aft,  I 
1  see  the  unfortunate  animal  swimming 
fls   the   bank,    half    a   mile    distant,    and 

'•■  ■'      ■■'    directions    to   the    boat.      I    was 

^yn  "I,    however,    whether    the    plucky 

little  terrier  would  be  able  to  reach 
•'        '  '  •   being  seized   by  a  crocodile, 

"      -  •■"lotion  which  our  steamer  made 

was  in  Its  favour.  It  succeeded,  nevcrliicless, 
and  was  taken  into  a  passing  canoe,  whose 
«Hcupar)i,  no  doubt  with  a  delicious  meal 
in  antifipation,  tied  the  poor,  tired  beast  by  its 
hind  !  I  lowcver,  our  boat  soon  arrived  and 

fo<''' i  "II-   'I'liis  exciting  incident  occurred 

just  I..  town  called  Sagbama,  the  majority 

of  the  population  of  which,  apparently,  paddled 
out  on  our  approac  h  to  scramble  for  tins  and 

•oltlcs  which  wc  threw  overboard,  and  whi(  h  are 
highly    valued.      One    bux..m    young   woman 


to  be  a  hippopotamus  in  the  water,  but  which 
proved  on  closer  examination  to  be  the  dead 
body  of  a  native,  drifting  slowly  along,  face 
downwards.  It  was  surprising  that  the  corpse 
had  not  been  attacked  by  crocodiles,  as  it  must 
have  been  in  the  water  for  some  time.  The 
country  still  continued  well  wooded,  stately 
cotton  and  graceful  palm  trees  being  very 
numerous,  whilst  the  tall  grass  on  the  water's 
edge  looked  in  the  distance  like  the  steep, 
grass-grown  banks  of  some  of  our  English 
rivers.  We  had  now  reached  the  point  where 
the  delta  of  the  Niger  might  be  said  to  ter- 
minate. In  this  region  crocodiles  and  hippo- 
potami are  said  to  be  numerous.  The  human 
inhabitants  are  of  a  very  low  type.  There  can 
be  no  doui)t  that  cannibalism  still  prevails  to  a 
considerable  extent. 

The  real  Niger,  in  which  we  now  were,  is 
about  a  mile  wide.  The  country  on  either  side 
of  the  river  again  changed  in  character.  Coarse 
grasses  still  lined   the  banks,  but  inland  there 


Wnil      IF  IK     BRITISH     TO     SOKOTO. 


363 


were  open  spaces  of 
considerable  size, 
which  were,  how- 
ever, probably 
marshy.  Clumps  of 
trees  grew  here  and 
there,  and  in  places 
there  were  masses 
of  virgin  forest.  At 
the  river-side  egrets 
were  numerous  — 
large  white  birds 
shaped  like  a  man- 
doline standing 
nearly  upright  —  as 
well  as  other  large 
birds,  such  as  peli- 
cans and  wild  geese. 
We  also  made  out 
several  crocodiles, 
basking  in  shallow 
water  or  on  sandy 
ledges,  sheltered 
from  the  sun  by 
overhanging  grasses. 
A  few  canoes  with 

mat-enclosed  cargoes  and  others  with  extem- 
porized mat-roofs  went  bv;  keeping  close  inshore, 
their  occupants  paddling  lazily  along,  hardly 
disturbing  the  water-birds. 

In  the  long  reaches  wc  got  a  shot  or  two  at 
crocodiles,  and  also  caught  glimpses  at  intervals 
of  a  hippo,  which  appeared  to  be  much  alarmed 
at     our     approach. 
In   this    neighbour- 
hood    extensive 
open    country    and 
hills  became  visible 
for    the    first    time 
as   we    approached 
Onicha,   l)y  far  the 
most     important 
town    we    had    yet 


THIC  YOUNi;    LADY    WHO  CAME  Al.ONt 

From 


reached.  Here 
there  are  two  fac- 
tories, in  addition  to 
a  large  native  town, 
which  is  said  to  con- 
tain sixteen  thou- 
sand inhabitants. 

On  the  river  bank 
a  small  encamp- 
ment consisting  of 
mat  shelters  had 
been  extemporized 
by  passing  native 
traders,  whose 
canoes  lay  drawn 
up  in  a  line  on  the 
bank.  At  the  water's 
^<^f^-^^^^  edge  the  natives 

^jb^^^S^Sa  were  washing    in    a 

state  of  nature,  and 
apparently  mixed 
bathing  is  permitted 
by  the  local  muni- 
cipal body  —  what- 
ever that  may  con- 
sist of. 

I  also  noticed  a  number  of  curious  little 
thatched  shelters  built  high  up  on  poles — per- 
haps forty  feet  from  the  ground — immediately 
overlooking  the  river,  at  intervals  of  fifty  or  a 
hundred  yards,  and  on  examining  one  of  these 
closely  could  see  a  man  sitting  aloft  with  a  string 
in    his    hand,    which   was    attached    to   a   large 

open-work  basket- 
net  1  y  i  n g  in  the 
water  below.  He 
was  evidently  a 
fisherman,  his  ele- 
vated position  pro- 
bably enabling  him 
to  see  what  he  was 
doing  without  fright- 
ening the  fish  away. 


SIDE    FORAGINt;  FOR  1  INS  AND  BUTTLES 

a  Photo. 


A    NATIVE   CAKGO-liOAT    DKIFTINli    DOWN    THE    KIVEK. 

From  a  Plwto. 


(To  be  continued.) 


JOHN    GLOVER    OF    TEXAS. 


THE    STORY    OF    A    VENDETTA. 
Bv  Colonel  J.  G.  Tucker,  late  U.S.  Consul  at  Martinique,  W.I. 

Colonel    Tucker   here    narrates    the    life-history   of  a   near    neighbour    of    his  in    Texas.      John 

Glover   befriended   some  escaping  slaves    in    the    bad   old    days  down   South,  for  which    action 

the    enraged    planters    took   a   terrible    and    dastardly   revenge.       Thereupon  Glover   swore   to 

kill   everyone    concerned,    and    fulfilled    his    oath. 


HA\E  met  many  quaint  characters 
during  my  sojourn  of  twenty-five 
years  upon  the   Mexican  border  of 

^  ^^^  Te-xas,  but  the  quaintest  of  them  all 
*—  — a  man  with  a  history  which  reads 

like  the  pages  of  romance — was  Mr.  John 
Cilover,  who  resided  just  over  the  line  at 
Cameron,  in  Hidalgo  County,  Te.xas. 

He  was  nearly  seventy  years  of  age  when  I 
first  met  him,  of  spare  build,  and  clean-shaven 
except  for  a  bunch  of  whiskers  under  his  chin. 
He  was  a  man  of  few  words,  never  indulged  in 
whisky,  tobacco,  or  cards,  and  seldom  visited 
anyone. 

His  histor)'  was  unknown,  for  he  never  spoke 
about  his  past  life,  but  it  was  said  that  he  had 
come  to  the  Rio  (jrande  many  years  ago  from 
I'lorida,  where  he  had  committed  some  crime. 

At  the  time  of  his  advent  he  was  accompanied 
by  a  stout  negress  and  two  of  her  children,  a  boy 
and  a  girl.  The  mother  was  called  "Aunt 
I'hyllis,"  and  the  boy,  named  "  Primus,"  subse- 
fjuenlly  became  a  hack-driver  in  Brownsville. 

Mr.    (ilover's    health    being    delicate.    Aunt 
I'hyllis   and   her  daughter  were  supporting  and 
Liking  ( .ire  of  him   by  planting   small  fields  of 
corn  and  cotton  and   by  raising  a  few  head  of 
'  I'tl.-.      It  was   said   that  Aunt   I'hyllis  and  her 
'  iuiilrfn   had   been  his  slaves  before  emancipa- 
tion, but  this  Aunt  I'hyllis  denied  when  I  asked 
lit  it,  saying  in  effect,  "  My  children  and 
ill    ■  ii     were    slaves    away    down    in    Florida, 
I'lH  wc  never  belonged   to   Mr.  Clover;  but   if 
Mr.  (JlovtT  and  I  should  live  to  be  a  thousand 
'd  I  would  work  for  him  everyday  of  my 
1  then  would   not    be  able   to  repay  him 
for  what   he  has  done  for  me  and  my  children. 
Wc  owe  him  our  liberty  and  our  lives,  and  that 
is  not  all ;  for  through  us  he  lost   his   wife  and 
his  property  and   had  to  leave  his  State,  where 
they  were  thirsting  for  his  blood     and  all  for 
In  those  days  he  was  a  great  hunter 
.  siiot    .111(1  (C)uld  track  man  or  beast 
lor    niiles    thr  oods   and   swamps,   and, 
'i  he  is  old  iK^w,  he  can  shoot  as  straight 
i.   an'    I'     1  "owledge  of   the  woods    is 


remarkable."  This  was  all  Aunt  Phyllis  would 
ever  tell  me  about  herself  or  about  Mr.  Glover. 

I  had  known  the  latter  for  eight  or  ten  years 
without  ever  having  conversed  with  him,  but 
would  always  speak  to  him  in  passing,  and  had 
gained  his  good-will  by  occasionally  sending 
him  delicacies  when  he  was  ill,  and  often 
assisting  Aunt  Phyllis  when  .she  was  "hard  up." 

About  this  time  the  business  of  cattle-stealing 
was  flourishing.  Bands  of  Mexican  thieves 
would  cross  the  Rio  Grande  and  drive  hundreds 
of  head  of  Texas  cattle  into  Mexico,  where  a 
ready  market  was  always  to  be  found. 

Cattle-stealing  was  not  confined  to  Mexicans 
from  Mexico  alone,  but  was  also  indulged  in  by 
Mexicans  living  in  Texas  near  the  Rio  Grande  ; 
and  although  a  band  of  thieves  consisting  of 
eleven  men  were  surprised  and  killed,  yet  the 
business  still  went  on  merrily  upon  a  smaller 
scale. 

Aunt  Phyllis  lost  a  cow,  which  was  killed 
near  her  house  and  hide  and  meat  carried  off, 
which  angered  Mr.  Glover  to  such  an  extent 
that  he  went  on  the  war-path.  He  rode  a  very 
handsome  mare  which  he  had  bred  himself,  and 
uj)on  which  he  bestowed  great  care. 

I  was  standing  in  front  of  my  ranch  house  at 
Santa  Maria  one  day  when  Mr.  Glover  came 
riding  past.  I  stopped  him  by  asking  how  he 
was  getting  along,  to  which  he  replied,  in  his 
drawling  tone  : — 

"Thank  you,  colonel,  my  health  is  pretty 
good,  but  I  am  worried,  becau.se  they're  begin- 
ning to  steal  cattle  right  here  now.  They  stole 
one  of  Aunt  Phyllis's  cows  the  other  night.  I 
tell  you  what  it  is,  colonel :  if  this  thing  isn't 
stopped  very  soon  Fll  go  back  to  my  old  business 
again." 

"What  old  business  do  you  allude  to,  Mr. 
Glover  ?  "  (jueried   I. 

He  hesitated  a  moment  and  then,  looking  me 
straight  in  the  eye,  rejjlied,  "  Killing  people  !  " 

"  Did  you  find  it  i)rofitable  ?  " 

"  Not  nuich,"  said  he,  "  othervvi.se  I  should 
not  be  here  now  ;  and,  besides,  I  didn't  kill  for 
money,  but  in  self-defence  and  for  revenge." 


JOHN    (ILOVKR    OF    TFA'AS. 


365 


HE    HESITATED   A    MOMENT   AND   THEN    REHLIEI),       KH.LING    PEOPLE, 


Then  he  rode  away,  and  as  I  looked  after 
him  the  thought  occurred  to  me  that  a  history 
must  he  behind  this  short  speech.  I  resolved 
to  attempt  to  learn  it,  if  ever  I  caught  him  in  a 
reminiscent  mood. 

About  a  month  later,  while  I  was  sitting  in 
my  office,  Mr.  Glover  rode  up,  dismounted,  and 
came  in,  much  to  my  surprise,  for  he  was  never 
known  to  enter  anybody's  house,  and  I  sur- 
mised at  once  that  sometliing  e.xtraordinary  had 
happened.  I  arose  and  asked  him  to  be  seated, 
attempting  to  shake  hands  with  him,  but  he 
declined  both  propositions. 

"  I  can't  shake  hands  with  you,  colonel,  nor 
can  I  take  a  seat  in  here  until  I've  told  you 
what  I  have  to  say  and  sec  how  you  will 
take   it." 

"  You  haven't  been  '  killing  people,'  have 
you  ?  "  (jueried   I. 

"That's  just  what's  the  matter,''  replied  he, 
"  and  I've  come  to  give  myself  up  to  you." 

"  Well,"  said  I,  "sit  down  and  tell  your  story." 

He  took  a  seat,  depositing  his  hat  upon  the 


floor,  and  this  is  what  he  said  : 
"  I  got  up  this  morning  and 
found  my  mare  missing  out 
of  the  yard  where  1  had 
staked  her  last  night.  I  ex- 
amined the  ground  closely, 
and  found  she  had  been  led 
out  by  a  man  wearing  shoes; 
so  I  knew  it  was  not  a  com- 
mon horse  -  thief  from  this 
neighbourhood,  because  they 
all  wear  sandals. 

"  I  tracked  the  mare  about 
a  hundred  yards  up  the  road 
to  a  place  where  she  had 
entered  the  woods.  I  then  re- 
turned home,  got  my  rifle,  a 
canteen  of  water,  and  some 
tortillas  (hoe-cakes),  and 
started  nfter  her.  I  tracked 
her  about  a  mile  through  the 
chaparral,  and  found  her 
hitched  to  a  tree. 

"The  poor  thing  recognised 
me  and  whinnied  when  she 
saw  me,  and  as  I  thought  slie 
might  be  thirsty  I  poured  out 
half  of  the  water  I  had  in  my 
canteen  into  the  crown  of  my 
hat,  and  she  drank  it  and 
looked  for  more  ;  but  I  said, 
'  Never  mind,  old  girl,  you 
must  wait  a  bit,  because  I 
may  have  to  stay  here  all  day 
with  you,  for  I  sha'n't  go  away 
until  the  thief  who  tied  you 
here  comes  to  fetch  you  away.' 

"  I  lay  down  behind  a  bush  and  waited  until 
about  an  hour  ago,  when,  sure  enough,  I  heard 
him  coming.  He  came  along  carrying  a  new 
saddle  and  bridle  and  a  blanket  and  rifle  and 
pistol,  which  he  deposited  on  the  ground. 
Then  he  went  to  untie  the  mare,  when  I  rose 
and  called  '  Hands  up  ! '  but  the  fool  got  so 
scared  that  he  broke  and  ran.  I  fired  and 
shot  him  in  the  back  and  dropped  hun,  and 
there  he  lies  now." 

"  Who  was  the  man  ?  "  queried  I. 
"  He  is  the  fellow  from  North  Carolina  whom 
Joe  Hynes  hired  about  a  month  ago  to  work  as 
a  clerk  in  Iiis  store  ;  and  as  Joe  has  gone  to 
lirownsville    and    foolishly    left    the    fellow   in 
cliarge,  I   suppose   he   thought   he  had  a  good 
chance  to  get  away  with  all   there  was  in  sight 
in  the  store     and  with   my  mare  ;  and   he  also 
has  a  pair  of  saddle-bags  filled  with  clothes." 
"  Is  he  dead  ?  "  asked  I. 
"  Oh,   no,"  said   he,  "  he  isn't  dead  ;  but  so 
that  he  can't  get  away  I've  tied  him  hand  and 


366 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


foot  with  the  stake  rope  and  moved  the  rifle 
and  the  pistol  to  a  safe  distance.  The  mare, 
the  man,  and  all  the  things  he  carried  are  there, 
in  the  woods,  so  that  you  can  come  down  and 
see  the  whole  lay-out." 


^ 


I.  ^ 


I  UK   'I  Mil- I-     I  AV     lull    rt'riv     I  IK.    (JROUNU. 

"  I  cannot  (Uj  ariytiiing  with  you,  Mr.  (Hover," 
rt^plicd  I,  "because  I  am  a  United  States 
(  ommissioner,  and  your  case  has  to  go  before 
the  State  authorities;  hut  I  will  drive  you  down 
to  the  oftirc  of  the  justice  of  the  peace,  who 
will  summon  a  jury,  anil  we  will  all  f;o  and 
investigate  the  matter.  Should  he  place  you 
under  bond  for  your  appearance  at  court  in 
iJruwnsville,  however,  1  will  stand  surety  for 
you.  You  have  done  a  very  good  thing  in 
ridding  us  of  a  horse-thief,  and  I  shall  stand  by 
you — of  that  you  may  rest  assured." 


While  I  was  speaking  the  old  man  looked 
straight  at  me,  and  when  I  finished  he  arose, 
reached  out  his  hand,  and  took  mine,  which  he 
shook  heartily,  saying  : — - 

"  You  will  do  all  that  for  me  ?  " 

"Certainly  I  will,"  replied  I. 
"Well,  colonel,"  said  he, 
"  you  are  the  only  man  who  has 
offered  to  stand  by  me  and  do 
me  a  favour  for  a  long  time,  and 
I  shall  not  forget  it." 

Having  given  orders  to  harness 
a  horse  and  put  him  in  my 
buggy,  I  drove  the  old  man  to 
the  house  of  the  justice  of  the 
peace,  where  he  surrendered 
himself. 

A  jury  was  at  once  em- 
pannelled,  and  we  started  off  to 
try  the  case  in  the  woods.  Mr. 
Glover  first  showed  us  the  marks 
where  the  mare  had  been  led 
out,  after  which  we  entered  the 
woods  and  were  taken  to  the 
place  where  the  thief  lay  tied, 
as  stated,  upon  the  ground. 

The  court  being  opened  right 
there,  the  unfortunate  prisoner 
was  arraigned.  He  pleaded 
guilty  to  the  charge,  upon  which 
Mr.  Glover  was  at  once  liberated 
and  led  his  mare  home. 

The  wounded  man  was  placed 
in  a  small  spring-waggon  which 
the  justice  had  brought  along 
for  that  purpose,  and  the  articles 
and  money  found  upon  the 
thief,  which  he  acknowledged 
having  stolen  from  Hynes,  were 
duly  invoiced  and  left  in  charge 
of  the  justice,  to  be  produced  in 
court,  if  necessary.  The  prisoner 
was  then  driven  to  Brownsville 
and  placed  in  gaol.  He  stead- 
fastly refused  to  say  anything 
about  himself,  and  three  days 
later  he  died.  That  was  the 
end  of  the  episode. 

A  few  days  later  Mr.  (ilover  paid  me  a 
friendly  visit — the  first  social  call  he  had  ever 
honoured  me  with.  After  having  thanked  me 
again  for  the  assistance  rendered  him,  he 
remarked,  "  Colonel,  if  I  can  ever  serve  you, 
you  know  where  to  find  me,  and  I  will  be  glad 
to  do  it." 

"  You  can  do  me  a  favour  right  now,  Mr. 
Glover,"  I  responded. 

"  Name  it  and  consider  it  done,"  said  he. 
"  What  I  want  of  you,  Mr.  Glover,  is  this.      I 


JOHN    GLOVER    OF    TEXAS. 


367 


want  you  to  stay  and  take  supper  with  me,  and 
after  supper  I  want  you  to  tell  me  something 
about  your  former  business,  when  you  '  killed 
people.'" 

"  Well,"  said  he,  "you  have  my  promise,  and 
of  course  1  will  stick  to  it,  though  I'd  rather 
have  done  a  hard  day's  work,  if  I  were  able." 

After  supper  he  straightened  himself  in  his 
chair,  picked  up  a  straw  which  happened  to  lie 
upon  ihe  iloor,  put  it  between  his  teeth,  and 
began  his  story  as  follows  : —    • 

"  We  needn't  be  particular  as  to  days  and 
dates,  for  that  plays  no  i)art  in  the  story,  but  a 
good  many  years  ago  I  lived  in  Florida,  and  at 
that  time  was  a  very  strong  and  active  man.  I 
could  out-ride,  out-jump,  and  out-shoot  anybody 
in  my  neighbourhood. 

"  I  owned  a  farm  of  two  hundred  and  forty 
acres  on  the  border  of  the  Everglades.  I  was 
twenty-five  years  old  when  I  married,  and  as  I 
was  not  rich  enough  to  own  slaves  I  hired  a 
negro  man  and  woman  to  work  about  the  house 
and  fields. 

"  I  was  a  pretty  good  hunter  in  those  days, 
and  used  to  hunt  a  great  deal,  and  my  house 
was  seldom  without  venison,  wild  turkey,  or 
other  game.  Being  constantly  in  the  woods  I 
got  acquainted  with  a  lot  of  Seminole  Indians, 
who  lived  in  the  Everglades,  and  with  several 
runaway  negroes  who  made  their  homes  with 
the  Indians.  As  I  sometimes  gave  them  a  deer 
when  I  had  killed  more  than  I  could  use,  I 
became  very  friendly  with  them. 

"  My  father-in-law  lived  about  fifteen  miles 
from  us,  and  now  and  then  my  wife  would 
visit  her  mother  and  spend  a  few  days  with 
her.  My  wife  was  a  good  woman,  but  she  has 
been  dead  now  many  years.  How  she  died  you 
will  soon  hear. 

"  We  had  been  married  several  years  and 
lived  happy  and  contented,  when  all  of  a  sudden 
trouble  came.  We  had  often  spoken  about  a 
man  who  lived  near  my  father-in-law's  house 
and  was  well-to-do ;  he  was  called  rich,  and 
owned  a  good  many  slaves,  but  as  we  were 
considered  '  poor  white  trash  '  we  did  not 
associate  with  him. 

"  Now,  this  man  was  from  the  North  and  had 
come  down  into  Florida  many  years  before,  and 
I  think  was  a  criminal  before  he  came  there, 
but  that  made  no  difference  in  a  country  wiicre 
there  were  so  many  criminals. 

"  The  man  was  a  terribly  hard  master,  and 
used  to  abuse  his  negroes  vilely.  My  wife 
would  come  home  sometimes  from  a  visit  to  her 
father's  house  and  tell  me  how  badly  the  poor 
slaves  were  being  treated,  and  often  said  that 
'one  of  these  days  some  of  them  would  run 
away  from  him.' 


"  Now,  it  happened  that  one  night,  while  it 
was  raining  and  blustering  outside,  we  sat  by 
the  fire,  my  wife  and  I,  when  a  loud  knock 
came  on  the  door.  I  went  and  opened  it,  and 
there  stood  Aunt  Phyllis  and  two  children,  look- 
ing like  drowned  rats,  almost  dead  with  wet, 
hunger,  and  fear. 

"  I  asked  them  in,  and  as  soon  as  Aunt 
Phyllis  saw  my  wife  she  rushed  up  to  her  and 
fell  on  her  knees  beside  her,  begging  her  to 
save  her  and  her  children,  as  she  had  run  away 
from  her  master,  the  fellow  who  lived  near  my 
father-in-law. 

"We  made  them  sit  by  the  fire  and  dry  them- 
selves and  gave  them  something  to  eat,  and 
when  they  were  satisfied,  and  the  two  children 
lay  by  the  fire  asleep,  Aunt  Phyllis  told  us  that 
her  master  had  whipped  her  husband  so  badly 
a  few  days  before  that  he  was  taken  ill  and 
died — and  all  because  he  had  broken  an  old 
plough  !  So  she  had  taken  her  two  children 
and  run  away  and  come  to  us  for  assist- 
ance, as  she  said  she  knew  Master  John 
(that  was  me)  would  help  her,  and  she  was 
afraid  they  would  come  after  her  at  any  moment 
with  the  bloodhounds. 

"  Now,  I  tell  you,  colonel,  I  stood  by  and 
listened,  and  the  more  I  listened  the  madder  1 
got,  and  I  swore  to  myself  that  I  would  save 
the  poor  woman  even  if  I  had  to  kill  her  brutal 
master  in  doing  so.  But  I  knew  there  was  no 
time  to  be  lost,  because  my  reputation  among 
these  slave-drivers  was  none  of  the  best,  for 
they  had  a  suspicion  that  I  had  helped  some 
negroes  to  escape  into  the  Everglades. 

"This  suspicion  was  wrong,  because  I  had 
not  been  called  upon  to  do  anything  of  the 
kind  ;  if  I  had  been  I  might  have  done  so.  So 
I  said  to  my  wife,  '  Ann,  get  all  the  bread  you 
have  in  the  house,  and  some  corn  meal,  and 
coffee  and  sugar,  and  a  side  o'  bacon,  and  we 
will  put  it  into  a  bundle  and  get  away  as  soon 
as  possible,  for  the  bloodhounds  will  surely 
track  her  here.  If  I  can  only  get  an  hour's 
start  they  will  never  get  Aunt  Phyllis.' 

"  My  wife  was  a  soft-hearted  woman,  and  all 
the  time  she  was  getting  the  things  ready  she 
was  crying  bitterly.  When  they  were  all  packed 
into  a  corn-sack,  and  we  were  about  ready  to 
start,  she  came  up  to  me  and  threw  her  arms 
about  my  neck  and  kissed  me. 

"  'John,'  she  said,  'you  are  a  good  man,  and 
I  know  God  will  bless  you  and  protect  you 
for  helping  to  save  this  poor  mother  and  her 
children  ;  but  I  am  afraid  I  shall  never  see  you 
again,  because  if  they  get  after  you  with  the 
bloodhounds,  and  catch  you,  they  will  kill  you.' 

"  '  Well,'  said  I,  '  good-bye,  my  dear  girl. 
If    they   kill    me,    it   can't     be     helped;    but 


368 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


some  of  them  shall  keep  me  company.'  Then 
I  took  down  my  rifle  and  all  the  powder 
and  ball  I  had  in  the  house,  took  a  couple  of 
blankets  for  Aunt  Phyllis,  and  threw  the  corn- 
sack  with  the  provisions  over  my  shoulder.  I 
held  the  boy  Primus  by  the  hand.  Aunt  Phyllis 
took  up  the  girl,  and  then  we  started  out  into 
the  wind  and  rain  of  that  wild  night. 

"  I  knew  a  place  away  down  in  the  middle  of 
the  swamp  -a  sort  of  little  island  -which  I  had 
discovered  one  day  while  out  hunting.  There 
was  a  small  shanty  hidden  in  the  bushes,  which 
must  have  been  used  by  some  former  runaway 


"  Here  we  took  to  the  water  and  never  left  it 
for  two  hours— now  wading,  now  half-swimming 
—and  I  had  all  I  could  do  to  keep  my  pro- 
visions and  powder  dry.  About  daybreak, 
almost  dead  with  fatigue,  we  finally  reached 
the  spot  I  was  looking  for,  and  entered  the 
little  shanty. 

"  I  soon  had  a  fire  blazing,  having  brought 
my  flint  and  steel,  which  is  as  necessary  to  a 
hunter  as  meat.  But  the  fire  was  barely  alight 
when  Aunt  Phyllis  came  and  knelt  down  in  front 
of  me  and  embraced  my  knees  and  cried  for  joy, 
and  thanked  and   blessed   me.     I  was  as  glad 


^^ 


'  WE   TOOK    TO   THE    WATER. 


slave,  and  I  thought  that  if  I  could  only  get  the 
fugitives  there  they  would  be  safe. 

"  Hut  it  was  a  long  way  off  and  there  were  no 
roads.  In  the  darkness  and  rain,  loo,  it  was 
hard  to  find,  and  before  getting  there  we  should, 
1  knew,  have  to  swim  or  wade  a  long  distance  in 
the  water  in  order  to  throw  the  bloodhounds  off 
our  track. 

"  All  these  matters  ran  thrcjugh  my  head 
while  we  were  walking  along.  After  plodding 
steadily  for  about  three  hours,  however,  I  came 
across  a  tree  standing  near  a  swamp,  which  I 
had  'notched  '  by  cutting  a  cross  upon  it;  and 
then  I  knew  exactly  where  we  were.  By  this 
time  tlie  rain  had  ceased  and  it  was  rather  light, 
though  there  was  no  moon  out. 


as  she  was,  though  I  knew  there  was  a  reckoning 
to  come  for  me  yet  if  the  hounds  had  tracked 
her  to  my  house.  When  I  thought  of  it  1  began 
to  get  scared  about  my  wife,  and  decided  to 
return  home  as  soon  as  possil)le. 

"  But  1  was  nearly  worn  out  with  the  load  I 
had  carried  and  the  wading  in  the  water,  and 
finally  made  up  my  mind  to  rest  an  hour  and 
sleep. 

"  Having  told  Aunt  Phyllis  my  fears  about 
my  wife,  I  begged  lier  to  wake  me  in  an  hour 
and  have  breakfast  ready  for  me. 

"As  soon  as  I  touched  the  ground  I  fell 
asleep,  and  had  thus  slept  about  half  an  hour 
when  something  strange  and  terrible  happened. 
I  dreamed  that  I  saw  my  wife  struggling  with 


JOHN    GLOVER   OF   TEXAS. 


369 


some  men,  and  heard  her  voice  as  plainly  as  if 
she  had  stood  before  nie,  crying  out,  'John,  John  ! 
Help,  help  ! '  I  awoke  with  a  start,  the  perspi- 
ration broke  out  all  over  me,  and  I  felt  faint  and 
sick.  Suddenly  I  seemed  to  hear  the  low, 
sweet  voice  of  my  wife,  close  to  my  ear,  whisper- 
ing, '  Good-bye,  good-bye  ! ' 

"I  jumped  to  my  feet  with  a  cry,  my  limbs 
trembling  so  that  1  could  not  move  a  step. 
Aunt  Phyllis,  who  was  getting  breakfast  near  the 
fire,  heard  the  -cry,   looked  around  at  me,  and 


at  once  what  it  meant,  and  looked  for  a  place  of 
safety,  running  as  hard  as  I  could  and  getting 
into  the  water  whenever  I  had  a  chance ;  but, 
for  all  that,  the  barking  came  nearer  and  nearer, 
and  I  was  finally  compelled  to  climb  a  tree. 

"I  had  hardly  got  fairly  settled  in  the 
branches  when  two  bloodhounds  passed,  and 
shortly  afterwards  struck  my  trail.  They  ran  a 
little  way  forward,  stopped  suddenly,  and  came 
straight  for  the  tree  in  the  branches  of  which  I 
was  seated.     There  they  stopped  and  looked  u[i 

at  me,  but  only 

second, 

rifle 

and 

them 

The 

tried 


for 

f  o  r     m  y 

cracked 

one    of 

fell  dead. 

survivor 

his     best     to 

climb  the  tree, 

1)11 1   it   was    no 


good, 


for  again 


I    JUMPED   TO    MY    FEET    WITH    A    CRY. 


almost 
looked 


fainted,  for  she  afterwards  declared  I 
like  a  ghost  as  I  stood  there  pale  and 
trembling. 

"  In  a  few  moments,  however,  I  recovered  my 
self-control  and  attributed  the  bad  dream  to 
my  overstrung  nerves,  owing  to  the  great  strain 
through  which  I  had  passed.  Aunt  Phyllis 
urged  me  to  drink  some  coffee,  which  I  did,  but 
could  eat  nothing,  so  she  put  some  bread  and 
bacon  into  my  'moral'  (haversack),  and  I  started 
off  for  home,  full  of  fear  and  anxiety.  I  told 
her  that  I  would  bring  her  some  provisions  in 
the  course  of  a  week,  unless  I  was  killed.  'Phen, 
after  bidding  her  good-bye,  I  left. 

"  As  I  had  only  my  rifle  to  carry,  I  made 
better  time  returning  than  in  coming.  I  took 
good  care  to  cover  my  tracks  as  much  as 
possible  by  keeping  to  the  water.  When  I  had 
covered  about  half  tlie  distance  to  my  house  the 
barking  of  dogs  struck   upon   my  ear.     I  knew 

Vol.  xi.-47. 


guide  them. 


my  rifle  spoke 
and  he  rolled 
over  upon  his 
back,  dead. 

"Shouts 
were  now  heard 
in  the  distance, 
and  I  lost  no 
time  in  d  e  - 
scending  from 
the  tree  and 
speeding  away, 
feeling,  how- 
ever, perfectly 
safe  now  that 
my  pursuers 
had  no  dogs  to 
I  took  to  the  water  again,  made  a 
long  dl'totir,  and  doubled  back,  because  I  was 
now  thoroughly  alarmed  for  the  safety  of  my  wife. 
"  Having  misled  my  pursuers,  I  ran  as  hard 
as  I  could  towards  my  house.  Knowing  as  I 
did  all  the  short  cuts,  I  soon  came  out  into  a 
clearing  from  whence  I  could  see  my  place. 
'Phen  I  stopped  suddenly,  for  there  was  no 
house  in  sight — nothing  but  smouldering  ruins  ! 
"  I  only  halted  for  a  minute,  and  then  ran 
towards  the  place  in  an  agony  of  apprehension. 
Presently  I  found  the  body  of  my  poor  wife. 
She  had  evidently  been  shot  before  the  house 
was  fired.  I  felt  dazed,  and  at  that  moment  I 
hardly  realized  the  fearful  loss  I  had  sustained. 

"  Mechanically  I  went  towards  a  small  tool- 
house  which  had  escaped  the  flames  and  pro- 
cured a  spade.  'Phen  I  dug  a  grave  at  the  foot 
of  a  large  po[)lar  tree,  in  whose  pleasant  shade 
my  poor  wife  had  spent  many  quiet  hours. 


37° 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


"  In  this  grave  I 

deposited   all    that 

had    been    dearest 

to  me  in  the  world, 

and    after     I     had 

filled    it    in     1    sat 

down     upon    the 

niound,  and  then  a 

great  anguish  took 

[Kissession    of    me 

and  I  wept. 

"  How     long     I 

sat  there  I  do  not 

know  ;    but  after  a 

time  a  calm  came 

over  me,  produced 

by    a   feeling    that 

was  new  to  me  —a 

thirst  for  vengeance 

so  fierce  and  terrible 

that  even  after  these  nuuiy  ycurs   I  sluidder  to 

think  of  it. 

"  1  arose  from  the  grave  a  changed  and  aged 
man.  I  looked  at  the  grave  and  at  my  wife's 
ring,  which  I  had  slipped  on  my  fingLT.  I  knelt 
down  by  the  side  of  the  grave  and  then  and 
there  swore  solemnly  that  not  one  of  the 
murderers  should  escape  me  ;  that  I  would  kill 
tlu-m  and  utterly  destroy  their  pro[)erty  as  they 
had  killed  my  poor  wife  and  destroyed  all  I 
possessed  in  the  world. 

"  I  have   been  faithful   to  my  oath  and  have 


MV    HIKI.E   CRACKED    AND   ONE  OF   THEM    I'El.l,    DEAD, 


avenged  her  death— and  that  is  why  I  am  here. 
Within  a  week  I  killed  the  leader,  who  was 
Aunt  Phyllis's  master,  and  during  the  same 
night  set  fire  to  his  house,  which  was  burned  to 
the  ground.  As  soon  as  his  dead  body  was 
found  a  number  of  his  slaves  took  to  the  woods, 
where  I  came  across  them,  and  they  were  glad 
to  remain  with  me  and  have  me  for  a  leader, 
rhere  were  eight  men  and  two  boys  in  the 

first  party  which  I  came 
acros?,  and  during  the 
day  we  encountered 
two  women,  and  as  I 
knew  that  the  whole 
county  w  o u  Id  be 
aroused  I  made  straight 
for  the  Seminole  In- 
dians' camp,  away  back 
in  the  Everglades. 

"  We  travelled  two 
days  and  nights,  only 
sleeping  a  few  hours, 
until  we  were  out  of 
reach  of  danger. 

"  Yes,  colonel,  I  said 
I  was  a  changed  man, 
and  I  mean  it.  I  lost 
all  sense  of  fatigue  and 
all  fear  of  danger,  for 
only  one  idea  possessed 
me— vengeance. 

"  With  my  rifle  to 
kill  deer,  bear,  and  wild 
turkeys,  and  with  corn 
which  we  got  from  the 
Indians,  we  had  plenty 
to  eat,  and  lay  low  for 
about  a  month. 

"  During  this  time  I 
learned  from  one  of  the 
negroes,  who  had  seen 
my  servant  after  my 
house  was  burnt  and 
my  wife  killed,  that 
there  were  five  men  in 
the  party  who  com- 
mitted the  outrage. 
"  It  appears  that  the  bloodhounds  had  led 
the  party  right  up  to  my  door,  having  caught 
the  .scent  o^f  Aunt  Phyllis  and  her  children. 
When  the  pursuers  entered  the  house  and  found 
they  were  gone  they  abused  and  threatened  my 
wife  in  order  to  make  her  tell  where  we  had 
gone  to. 

"  lUit  my  wife  was  true  grit ;  she  said  she 
would  not  tell  them  ;  that  they  could  kill  her 
before  she  would  do  so.  The  enraged  men 
took  her  at  her  word,  shot  her  through  the 
head,  and  set  fire  to  the  house. 


JOHN    GLOVER    OF    TEXAS. 


371 


"  As  I  had  the  names  of  the  men  who  had 
composed  the  party,  liaving  procured  additional 
evidence,  I  felt  sure  of  my  revenge.  In  six 
weeks  from  the  day  of  my  wife's  death  I  had 
killed  two  out  of  the  five  and  burned  their 
homes. 

"  I  stayed  in  the  Everglades  about  six  months. 


when  things  had  settled  down,  I  slipped  away 
one  dark  night  without  bidding  anybody  good- 
bye, taking  Aunt  Phyllis  and  the  children  with 
me. 

"  Before  leaving,  however,  I  managed  to 
have  a  letter  conveyed  to  the  Governor,  in 
which  I  stated  the  whole  facts  of  the  case,  and 


SHE    SAID    SHE   WOULD    NOT    TELL   THEM. 


during  which  time  I  made  many  raids  upon  my 
enemies  and  had  some  very  narrow  escapes 
from  being  shot  or  caught ;  but,  having  no  fear, 
I  defied  them,  and  in  the  end  all  five  of  my 
enemies  fell  before  my  rifle  and  the  torch 
devoured  their  property.  Then,  although  I 
could  have  stayed  in  the  Everglades  for  many 
years  without  any  risk  of  being  caught,  I  con- 
cluded to  emigrate,  as  I  had  avenged  the  death 
of  my  wife  fully. 

"  I  had  become  such  a  terror  by  this  time 
lliat  the  Governor  i)ul  a  price  upcrn  my  head, 
but  that  did  not  worry  me,  as  none  of  my 
associates  dared  betray  me. 

"  But  I  got  tired  of  being  hunted,  and  made 
my  arrangements  (juietly  for  getting  away,  only 
taking  Aunt  Phyllis  into  my  confidence.  After 
living  a  year    williout   making    any    raids,    and 


assured  him  that,  as  all  my 
enemies  had  been  killed,  no 
more  outrages  need  be  appre- 
hended from  me. 
"  And  now,  colonel,"'  concluded  Mr.  Glover, 
"you  know  what  I  meant  when  I  said  I  would 
have  to  go  into  my  old  business  again,  killing 
people.  Nobody  here  knows  anything  about 
me,  and,  as  I  know  you  are  my  friend,  I  hope 
you  will  keep  my  secret  to  yourself.  I  only 
became  an  outlaw  when  I  was  driven  to  it  for 
revenge.  Otherwise  I  have  never  in  my  lite 
harmed  any  living  being." 

Here  ended  his  strange  story,  and  it  only 
remains  for  me  to  say  that  Mr.  Glover  was  a 
quiet,  inoffensive  man,  and  that  he  died  peace- 
fully in  his  bed  in  Hidalgo  County,  Texas,  a 
few  years  ago,  and  was  soon  followed  to  the 
grave  by  Aunt  Phyllis,  who  said  upon  her  death- 
bed that  "  she  was  quite  willing  to  die,  as  she 
had  nothing  more  to  live  for  since  the  death  of 
Mr.  Glover'" 


A    BABY    PARADE. 


By  Theodore  Adams. 

An  article  which  will  interest  our  lady  readers.  The  baby  parade  at  Asbury  Park,  New 
Jersey,  takes  place  annually  in  August,  and  attracts  children  and  their  parents  from  all  parts 
of  the  United  States.  Valuable  prizes  are  offered  to  the  juvenile  participants  in  the  parade — 
none  of  whom  are  over  fifteen— for  the  best-decorated  "turnouts"  and  dresses,  and  enormous 

crowds  gather  to  witness  the  procession. 


have  firemen's  parades  and 
l)icycle  parades;  why  not  have  a 
-aby  parade?"  "A  capital  idea  !" 
was  the  response,  and  the  speakers, 
two  well-known  figures  in  Asbury 
I'ark,  N.J.,  at  once  set  about  discussing  the 
fcasiljility  of  the  {project.  The  result  was  that 
wiiliiii  a  very  short  time  Asbury  Park  had 
witnessed  its  first  baby  parade. 

This  took  place  in  July,  1890,  and  was  in 
every  way  a  complete  success,  although,  com- 
pared with  the  elaborate  carnivals  of  recent 
years,  of  a  very  unpretentious  character.  One 
hundred  and  si.xty  five  children  took  part  in  the 
I>arade,  and  the  novelty  and  picturesqueness  of 
the  sight  as  they  formed  into  one  long  pro- 
cession and,  accompanied  by  the  beach  band, 
marc  hcd  through  the  main  thoroughfares  greatly 
im[)ressed  all  who  saw  it.  Of  valuable  prizes, 
such  as  are  now  given,  there  were  none,  but 
every  child  was  made  hap[)y  by  the  gift  of  a  box 
of  (andy. 

Thus  out  of  a  chance  conversation  was 
Asbury  Park's  famous  baby  parade  founded, 
and  it  has  ever  since  remained  one  of  the  most 
unique  events  of  the  season  at  this  popular 
American  resort.  Each  year  it  gained  in  popu- 
larity, and  was  attended  by  larger  numbers  from 
near  and  far.  The  entries  increased,  the  prizes 
were  made  more  valuable,  and  the  parade 
gradually  obtained  for  itself  a  prominent  posi- 
tion in  the  list  of  Asbury  Park's  social  functions. 
The  progress  was  uninterrupted  until  1900, 
when,  much  to  the  disappointment  of  all,  the 
parade  was  not  held.     The  following  year,  how- 


ever, ample  amends  were  made,  and  that  year's 
fete  was  the  most  successful  held  up  to  that 
time.  But  1902  was  to  see  even  greater  things 
achieved.  Instead  of  being  completed  in  one 
day,  as  had  hitherto  been  the  case,  it  extended 
over  three  days,  and  many  additional  features, 
greatly  increasing  its  attractiveness,  were  intro- 
duced. In  1 90 1  the  carnival  was  presided  over, 
for  the  first  time,  by  a  Queen  and  her  Court, 
but  last  year  this  pretty  idea  was  elaborated  still 
further.  The  festivities  commenced  with  a 
Coronation  ball  and  reception  given  by  Titania, 
Queen  of  the  Fairies,  impersonated  by  Miss 
Rhoda  Elizabeth  Atkins,  of  New  York.  This 
young  lady  quickly  found  her  way  to  the  hearts 
of  her  subjects,  and  during  her  short  but 
brilliant  reign  of  three  days  made  herself  a 
general  favourite  by  her  courtesy  and  charm  of 
manner. 

Invitations  to  the  ball  were  eagerly  sought, 
and  happy  indeed  were  those  who  received  from 
Mr.  Frank  B.  Conover,  pro[)rietor  of  Coleman 
House,  who  acted  as  Lord  High  Chamberlain 
to  the  Queen,  the  following  Royal  command  : 
"  Her  Majesty  Titania,  Queen  of  the  Fairy 
Carnival  of  the  Twelfth  Annual  Baby  Parade, 
commands  you  to  appear  at  the  Coronation 
Ball,  Coleman  Court  Palace,  Monday  evening, 
August  i8th,  1902.  Summoned  by  Her 
Majesty." 

The  Queen,  attired  in  her  Royal  robes  and 
attended  by  pages,  heralds,  and  maids  of 
honour,  drove  in  full  state  to  her  Court,  where 
her  arrival  was  proclaimed  by  a  blast  from  the 
trumpet   of  a   herald  who  had    preceded    the 


A    BAP.V     PARADE. 


373 


^tatUl^  (Annual   %ab^  Tfiaxabt,   ^sbnt^  TpatU 

C^lnmin  (j^nrl  f  alacr, 
^oniuig  ^t««»i»3,   ^ugwBl  ^iijljUfnUj, 

Annd    Potnini. 


THE    INVITATION    TO   QUEF.i\    TITANIA  S    BALL. 

procession.     Her  Majesty  was  then  escorted  to 
the  ball-room,  where  the  Coronation  ceremony 
was  held.     In  honour  of  the  event 
she  was  presented  with  the  freedom       ' 
of  the  city,  together  with  a  hand- 
some   gold    medal    as   a   souvenir 
of  the  occasion.     A  very  pleasant       ' 
incident    during    the  evening   was 
the   presentation   to    Mr.   Conover 
of  a  facsimile  of  the  Queen's  medal 
in    recognition    of  his    services    to 
the  festival. 

So  far  the  babies  had  not  been 
greatly  in  evidence,  but  on  the 
following  day  they  had  matters  all 
their  own  way.  Adults,  indeed, 
for  once  found  themselves  of  little 
or  no  account,  and  Asbury  Park 
on  this  brilliant  summer's  day  was 
turned  into  a  veritable  babies' 
paradise.  Not,  however,  that  the 
grown-ups  were  few  and  far  be- 
tween. On  the  contrary,  every 
baby  seemed  to  have  brought  his 
father  and  mother,  to  say  nothing 
of  "  his  sisters  and  his  cousins 
and  his  aunts,"  and  they  came  in 
such  numbers  that  ten  special  trains 
were  needed  to  accommodate  them. 
Babies  dark  and  babies  fair, 
babies    from    China,    Japan,    South 


Africa,  and  South  America,  as  well  as  one 
full -bred  Indian  papoose,  were  to  be  seen, 
and  one  and  all  appeared  to  be  enjoy- 
ing themselves.  Every  fond  mother  naturally 
imagined  that  her  baby  was  the  prettiest  one  to 
be  seen  ;  indeed,  so  strong  was  the  faith  of 
some  that  they  even  forebore  to  dress  the 
children  in  their  best  attire,  thinking  their 
charms  sufficient  in  themselves  to  gain  one  of 
the  much-coveted  prizes.  The  children  seemed 
to  know  that  the  day  was  theirs,  and  appeared 
determined  to  do  nothing  to  mar  its  success. 

As  the  hours  passed  swiftly  by  the  crowd 
became  denser  and  even  more  plentifully  be- 
sprinkled with  babies  of  all  ages,  until  at  four 
o'clock,  the  time  announced  for  the  start  of  the 
parade,  it  was  estimated  that  upwards  of  sixty 
thousand  spectators  were  present.  They  com- 
pletely filled  all  the  available  space  on  the  side- 
walk, while  the  grand  stands  were  packed  to 
overflowing,  as  were  the  streets  adjacent  to  the 
route  of  the  procession.  In  fact,  every  point 
from  which  a  view  of  the  procession  could  be 
obtained  had  its  quota  of  expectant  sightseers. 

Ocean  Avenue — a  fine  broad  thoroughfare 
running  parallel  with  the  sea — was  the  scene  of 
the  parade.  About  two-thirds  of  the  avenue  had 
to  be  traversed  by  the  procession,  which  then 
turned  and  retraced  its  way  to  the  starting-point. 
The  route  was  admirably  kept,  and,  though  it 


lU.i    1,11. \K.r    LllINKsK    I'.Al'.ll-.N    IN     I'llE    TARADI 

From  a  Photo  by  Pictorial  Neu<s  Co.,  Ne^o  York. 


374 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


must  have  been  impossible  for  many  to  gain 
more  than  a  momentary  gh'inpse  of  the  pageant, 
very  httle  grumbling  was  heard. 

Asbury  Park  had  seldom  presented  a  more 
animated  appearance — certainly  it  had  never 
looked  more  beautiful — than  at  the  moment 
when  a  mounted  bugler  signalized  the  approach 
of  the  Queen's  procession  and  the  commence- 
ment of  the  parade.  All  eyes  were  strained 
to  catch  the  first  sight  of  Her  Majesty, 
and  as  the  fairy-coach  came  into  view  it  was 
received  with  a  hearty  outburst  of  cheering,  the 
first  of  the  long  succession  of  cheers  with  which 
the  parade  was  greeted  all  along  the  route. 
Never  were  cheers  better  deserved,  for  Queen 


served  the  purpose  of  a  Court,  from  which  Her 
Majesty  watched  the  parade  over  which  she  had 
been  chosen  to  preside.  Her  gallant  escort 
had  meanwhile  taken  up  its  position  in  front  of 
the  stand,  where  it  remained  on  £[uard  through- 
out  the  afternoon.  The  pavilion  on  the  right  of 
the  Queen  was  reserved  for  the  judges,  while 
that  on  her  left  contained  a  military  band. 
Immediately  opposite  an  immense  grand  stand 
was  packed  with  sightseers,  and  the  many- 
coloured  dresses  of  the  ladies  lent  additional 
effect  to  the  already  brilliant  scene. 

Without  any  delay  the  Queen  signified  her 
wish  that  the  procession  should  start  on  its  way, 
and  immediately  the  first   in   the  long  line  of 


■■■V^r— -— - 


m^ 


■^.•-  eI 


fc. 


»-is~j3 


\T 


■*J^ 


','1   PIN     IIIAMA    IN    Mil;    I'AIK'V   COACH,    KSCORTKU    BV   JUVKNII.E 


'  ROUGH    HIDKRS. 


[  I'uriilnill,  A'eiv  i  oi/c. 


Titania,  crowned  and  wearing  her  Royal  robes, 
made  a  (harming  picture  as  she  passed  between 
the  ranks  of  her  subjects  in  an  elaborately 
decorated  gold  coach.  Her  maids  of  honour, 
who  followed  in  State  carriages,  added  a  sense 
of  dignity  to  the  scene  without  in  any  way 
lrss(;ning  its  Ix-auty. 

The  Royal  procession  was  escorted  by  a  con- 
tingent (.f  juvenile  "  Rough  Riders,"  and  these 
youthful  warriors,  dressed  in  khaki  and  carrying 
arm.s,  quickly  gained  the  favour  of  the  crowd 
l>y  their  martial  bearing.  At  a  short  distance 
from  the  starting-jioint  three  pavilions  had  been 
erected  and  lavishly  decorated  with  flags, 
towards  which  the  Royal  cortege  slowly  made  its 
wnv.  'J'hc  Queen  and  her  maids  of  honour 
\s'rc  conducted   to   the  middle  pavilion,  which 


litllc  folks  came  into  view  and  was  welcomed 
with  a  ringing  cheer.  The  procession  was 
headed  by  "  Rough  Riders,"  a  contingent  of 
whom  acted  as  advance  guard  to  each  of  the 
seven  sections  into  which,  in  order  to  facilitate 
the  work  of  the  judges,  the  competitors  were 
divided. 

The  fact  that  the  age  limit  was  fixed  at  fifteen 
made  it  possible  for  the  parade  to  be  given  a 
far  more  varied  and  animated  character  than 
would  have  seemed  likely  from  its  title.  Nearly 
four  hundred  children  were  entered  in  the 
different  classes,  and  it  took  quite  an  hour  for 
the  procession  to  pass  the  Queen's  reviewing 
stand.  The  children  marched  in  perfect  order, 
a  distance  of  ten  feet  being  maintained  between 
the  "exhibits  " — if  they  may  be  so  called — and 


A     BABY     I'ARADli 


v)/3 


i  \ 


(JUEF.N    TITANIA   ON   THE    REVIEWING   STAND    FROM    WHICH    SHE   WATCHED    THE    PARADE. 

From  a  Photo,  by  Pictorial  News  Co.,  New  York. 


were    received    with     immense    cheerinG;    and 
applause  all  along  the  line.     It  was  an  exceed- 
ingly pretty  sight,  and  those  who  watched  closely 
the  almost  endless   procession   of  happy  faces 
could  not  fail  to  note  the  pride  with  which  the 
children      realized     that 
the  applause  was  all  for 
them,  and    them   alone. 
ICven    the  face  of   some      ! 
little    mite    hardly   more 
than    a    year    old  would 
now    and    then    be  seen 
to  light  u[)  with  pleasure 
as  some   sight  or  sound 
api)ealed    to  its  childish 
fancy. 

Much  variety  of  opin- 
ion was  expressed  as  to 
tiie  prettiest  feature  of 
the  show.  While  some 
favoured  the  section 
devoted  to  dolls'  per- 
ambulators, each  in 
charge  of  its  youthful 
owner,  others  preferred 
the  elaborately  decora- 
ted allegorical  cars  or 
"floats."  But  there  was 
something  for  all  tastes  in 
the  various  sections  of  the 


pageant,  and  where  everything  was  characterized 
by  a  sense  of  beauty,  combined  with  great 
simplicity,  it  would  be  a  difficult  and  an 
ungracious  task  to  make  comparisons.  The 
appearance    of    many   of    the    cars    was   very 


•cv 


■\. 


FTmfwnaHMBi^i^ai 

ONE  OF  THE  AI.LEf.ORICAI,  CARS — "  AURORA  OPENING  THE  GATES  OK  V.\ 

From  a  Photo,  by  Pictorial  News  Co.,  Ne^v  York. 


376 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


t  Ht    HK3l     IMIAlil  IAN  l.s    OK    ASBUkY    I'AKK" — IHIS    CAK    WON'    THli    KIUS  r     I'Ul/.li    IN     US    .Sl^CIlUN. 

From  a  Photo,  by  Pictorial  News  Co.,  New  York. 


Striking,  and  it  was  evident  that  mueh  time  and 
thought  hud  been  expended  upon  their  design 
and  decoration.  One,  representing  "  Aurora 
Opening  the  Oates  of  Day,"  was  of  a  par- 
tieularly  ambitious  design,  yet  so  well  was  the 
idea  carried  out  that  it  was  admired  and  cheered 
by  all.  Amongst  the  subjects  represented  by 
the  other  cars,  all  of  which  were  accorded  a 
most  ins|)iriting  reception,  were  Cleopatra, 
attended  l)y  two  black  slaves;  Ben  Hur,  in  a 
<hariot  drawn  by  three  white  horses  ;  and  the 
<<)ueen  of  the 
Kiowers  and  the 
Queen  of  the 
Roses  -  over  a 
thousand  roses 
being  used  in  the 
decoration  of  the 
lallt-r  car.  The 
prize  in  this  sec- 
tion was  awarded 
to  "'I"he  I'irst 
Inhabitants  of 
Asbury  I'ark," 
showing  a  wig 
wanj,  camp  fire, 
war  j)aint,  and  all 
the  access(jries  of 
T"''i  in  life.  Some 
of  the  amount 
«j|  care  bestowed 
on  these  exhibits 
may  be  gained 
from  our  illustra- 
tions. 

On. -.I,    Titania 
1  the  live- 
liest    interest      in 
the     proceedings, 


-    '  1-'  '--■...   ;...!-.  ..,'.1,1,1  Ai, I-:. 
J-rom  a  Photo.  I^y  Pictorial  News  Co.,  New  VorHt. 


and  it  was  evident  tliat  she  was  greatly 
charmed  with  the  spectacle.  Most  of  the 
children,  as  they  passed  her  Court,  looked 
up  at  their  Fairy  Queen  with  a  happy  smile, 
while  many  blew  kisses  to  her  and  the  maids  of 
honour. 

Every  kind  of  baby- carriage  was  to  be  seen, 
and  many  were  decorated  in  such  dainty  fashion 
as  to  excite  expressions  of  admiration  even  from 
the  owners  of  competing  turnout.s.  Many  and 
curious  were  the  devices  adopted  to  keep  the 

tiny  occupants  in 
good  humour. 
One  fond  mother 
was  happily  in- 
spired to  decor- 
ate her  baby's 
carriage  with 
shells  and  to  fill 
the  bottom  with 
sand,  with  which 
the  child  played 
delightedly 
throughout  the 
afternoon. 

Oreat  merri- 
ment was  aroused 
by  the  costume 
section,  owing  to 
the  amusing 
\'  a  r  i  e  t  y  of  the 
dresses  and  the 
solemn  walk  and 
serious  faces  (jf 
many  of  the  chil- 
dren. Most  of 
the  familiar  figures 
of  J'airyland  were 
represented,     and 


A    BABY    PARADE. 


377 


r~^ 


'1 


Front  a  Plioto.  by\ 


A    I'ONY-CAKRIAGE    LflADED    WITH    MASSES   OF    FLOUEkS 


[Pictorial  A'invx  Co. 


the  little  tots  made  a  most  picturesque  sight  as 
they  slowly  defiled  between  the  walls  of  cheering 
spectators.  Cupid,  impersonated  by  a  little  boy 
only  three  years  and  six  months  old,  conquered 
all  his  rivals,  and  thus  succeeded  in  main- 
taining his  reputation.  Dolly  Varden,  Puck, 
and  a  capital  representation  of  a  Highlander 
were  other  figures  that  met  with  approval. 


The  procession  now  stretched  nearly  from 
one  end  of  the  route  to  the  other,  and,  as 
viewed  from  the  stands,  was  a  singularly  beau- 
tiful sight.  The  skilful  use  made  of  flowers, 
both  real  and  artificial,  was  a  notable  feature  of 
the  scene,  and  gave  it  an  appearance  of  dainti- 
ness and  charm  peculiarly  in  keeping  with  its 
character.     Despite  the  heat  of  the  afternoon 


J'roni  a  J'Jioto.  by 
Vol.  xi.— 48. 


A    GENERAt.    VIEW    OF     IIIEGKAMJ    MAM). 


37S 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


+: 


A  lis   ON     IHK    SIANDS,    SHOWING    THE    ROUTE    ALONG    WHICH    THE    PROCESSION    PASSED. 

From  a  Photo,  by  Pennypacker,  Aslmry  Park. 


the  interest  of  the  spectators  never  flagged,  and 
the  applause  given  to  some  of  the  exhibits 
towards  the  end  of  the  procession  was  quite  as 
hearty  as  that  with  which  the  first  division  had 
Imjch  greeted.  Especially  capable  of  artistic 
<lc<  oration  were  the  little  pony-carriages  so 
l»<  lijvcd  by  children  of  all  ages,  and  some 
of  these  were  loaded  with  such  masses  of 
flowers  that  their  occupants  were  scarcely 
visible. 

It  was  agreed  on  all  sides  that  the  task  of  the 
jiid^fs  was  by  no  means  an  enviable  one,  for  in 
the  long  line  which  had  passed  before  their 
startd  during  the  afternoon  a  very  level,  yet  high, 
standard  of  excellence  had  been  maintained. 
Mm  imtil  the  morrow  their  decisions  were  to 
remain  secret,  and  great  was  the  curiosity  of  the 
crowd  in  con.se(|uence.  It  was  plain,  however, 
that  many  a  motluT  making  her  way  home  with 
a  tind  but  happy  child  was  certain  in  her  own 
mind  as  to  the  destination  of  at  least  one  prize. 
Would  that  to-morrow  might  never  come  and 
her  happiness  remain  undisturbed  I 


On  the  evening  of  the  next  day  the  festivities 
were  brought  to  a  triumphant  close  with  a  Mid- 
summer Night's  Fairy  Festival.  Queen  Titania 
and  her  Court,  with  all  the  members  of  the 
Carnival  Association,  were  present,  and  in  the 
intervals  between  a  most  attractive  series  of 
tableaux  Her  ]\Iajesty  presented  the  prizes  to  the 
successful  children. 

As  a  result  of  the  three  days'  festivities  the 
baby  parade  is  now  more  firmly  established  than 
ever  as  the  most  unique  feature  of  the  season 
at  Asbury  Park.  What  this  year  has  in  store 
remains,  at  the  time  of  writing,  to  be  seen.  An 
attempt  will  most  likely  be  made  to  eclipse  last 
year's  record,  and  another  fine  time  for  the 
children  would  seem  to  be  in  prospect. 

Here  is  an  opportunity  for  some  English 
watering-place  to  show  its  enterprise.  The  first 
town  to  organize  a  baby  parade  on  tlie  lines  of 
that  at  Asbury  Park  will  surely  not  have  to 
wait  long  for  its  reward,  and  will  ]irobably 
decide  at  once  to  make  such  a  carnival  a 
regular  feature  of  the  season. 


f)OW 


GEEN 

ouiiD  f)ER 
IflVER. 

E. Leslie 


For  twenty  years  Queen  Stella,  the  gipsy  ruler  of  the  Gonzales,  had  mourned  her  handsome  young  lover 
as  dead.     She  went  to  America  to  arrange  for  the  emigration  of  her  people,  and  there  discovered  her  long- 
lost    sweetheart   in  a  prison  cell,  still  true  to  her  memory  !     Steps  are  now  being   taken    to   secure    his 
release,  and  the  pretty  little  romance  will  end  conventionally  enough  with  the  sound  of  wedding  bells. 


UEEN  STELLA,  the  gipsy  ruler  of 
the  Gonzales,  a  tribe  of  Spanish 
gipsies,  has  for  some  time  been 
residing  in  the  United  States  of 
America  in  the  interests  of  her 
people.  She  believes  that  the  darkest  hour  in 
human  affairs  is  just  before  the  dawn,  and  is 
herself  a  living  e.xample  of  the  truth  of  the 
saying,  in  the  intensely  interesting  romance  of 
her  own  life,  a  romance  in  which  love  and 
tragedy  mingle. 

After  twenty  long  years  of  waiting,  Queen 
Stella  has  at  last  found  the  lover  of  her  youth  ~- 
the  handsome  young  matador  who  won  her 
girlish  heart  in  the  sunny  days  of  long  ago  in 
the  land  of  her  birth.  Though  found,  the  lovers 
are  not  yet  reunited.  That  is  the  pathetic  part 
of  the  story. 

They  became  separated  in  Spain  and  have 
sought  each  other  ever  since.     Now  they  have 


met  and  looked  into  each  other's  eyes,  and 
renewed  the  love  of  their  youth.  Nevertheless, 
they  are  separated  by  a  barrier  greater  than  the 
dark-eyed  gipsy  ever  thought  possible.  And 
this  is  the  story  of  it  all. 

Ever  since  the  time  of  the  Pharaohs,  the 
Gonzales,  who  claim  Egyptian  birth,  have  been 
roving  about,  journeying  hither  and  thither  in 
their  wanderings,  and  living  the  wild  care-free 
life  known  only  to  the  nomad  tribes  who  first 
inherited  the  earth.  At  last  the  Gonzales  found 
their  way  into  Spain.  It  was  here  that  Queen 
Stella  was  born,  and  became  the  ruler  of  her 
people,  being  the  last  of  a  long  succession  of 
reigning  female  sovereigns. 

The  girl  Queen  was  carefully  reared.  She 
received  all  the  advantages  of  a  modern  educa- 
tion, which  has  fitted  her  to  enter  the  best 
social  circles  of  every  city  and  town  she  has 
ever  visited. 


jSo 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MACIAZINE. 


Having  finished  her  education,  Queen  Stella 
went  to  America,  in  the  hope  of  finding  some- 
where a  spot  adapted  to  the  needs  of  her 
people.  She  wanted  to  prove  that  the  gipsy  is 
worthy  of  honour  and  respect,  and  her  idea  was 


V'  ^K-.    vIKl.l.A,    Kl  I.KH    111-     liiK   (,i).\/Al.i;s. 

I'rom  a  I'hoto. 

to  take  the  gipsy  tribe  of  the  Clon/ales  over  to 

Stales  and  settle  down  in  the  new  country, 

''.       r ciiM  fr:itcrni/.e  with  those  among 

"  i   • ;  look  up  their  ai)ode  and  at  the  same 

tune  engage  in  their  own    native  arts  and  in- 

dusf 

,  *•' •?'^""'i  diought  that  if  they  settled  in 

•I'-^e  proximity  to  some  large  city  they  could 
not  only  follow  their  own  crafts,  hut,  like  the 
'■■""  •  "''  '^'<'.  <:'Hil(l  wander  into  the  midst 

"I  »'  ;    life  of  the  town,  enlivenin-;  it  with 

thnr  gay  and  festive  music  of  harp  and  song. 

Ilie  gipsy  must  be  free,"  she  said,  "but  he 
must  not  be  idle."     Therein  li.-s  the  difference 

Ktw<-en  the  genuine  gipsy  and  the  wandering 
''•^nip.     In  this  connection  she  has  addressed 

"Pieties  and  colleges  in  different  parts  of 

s. 


While  an  ardent  lover  of  music,  Queen  Stella 
nas  always  followed  the  gipsy's  peculiar  pro- 
fession, the  study  of  the  palm.  The  scientific 
reading  of  the  hand  is  her  especial /^r/f,  and  it 
is  largely  due  to  her  skill  that  palmistry  receives 
the  recognition  it  now  enjoys  among  cultivated 
people  in  the  United  States. 

Some  months  ago  Queen  Stella  forsook  the 
centres  of  fashionable  Eastern  society,  going, 
she  herself  could  not  tell  why,  to  the  Western 
cities  and  towns.  All  the  time  she  lived  in  the 
fashionable  whirl  no  one  ever  suspected  that 
Queen  Stella  was  other  than  happy.  Her  sunny 
nature  and  strong  will  enabled  her  to  conceal 
the  stormy  waves  of  feeling  that  were  surging 
over  her  aching  heart. 

The  gipsy  tribe  of  the  Gonzales  are  a  people 
of  blood.  Every  marriage  contracted  by  one 
of  its  members  must  be  within  the  tribe.  Its 
sons  and  daughters  must  not  wed  outside  their 
own  race.  This  much  the  dark-eyed  Queen 
confided  to  her  friends,  but  she  never  told  them 
the  secret  which  was  wearing  away  her  heart. 
That  she  kept  jealously  to  herself,  and  no  one 
would  ever  have  found  it  out  had  she  not  gone 
to  Columbus,  Ohio,  and  made  her  home  there. 

Twenty  years  ago,  when  she  lived  in  her 
Spanish  home,  Pedro  Oonzales  became  Queen 
Stella's  accepted  lover.  His  prowess  in  the 
bullring  had  made  him  famous.  Six  feet  higVi, 
and  as  strong  as  a  lion,  his  daily  struggles  with 


l-EDKO   t;ONZAt,Ks.     Iin-;    l.l)N<,-I.OM    Cill'SV. 

J-rom  a  Photo. 


now     llll':    CII'SV    OUEKN     FOUND     WKR     LOVER. 


381 


the  fierce  bulls  seemed  the  natural  outlet  for  his 
temperament.  No  bullfight  was  complete  un- 
less the  matchless  young  matador  participated 
in  it. 

The  dark-eyed  young  Queen  was  proud  of 
her  strong,  handsome  lover,  whom  she  ardently 
admired.  To  Pedro,  Queen  Stella's  word  was 
law ;  not  because  her  rank  made  it  so,  but 
because  she  reigned  supreme  in  his  heart. 

But  the  young  Queen  was  true  to  her  people 


her  heart,  and  gave  herself  wholly  to  work  for 
her  people.  Two-thirds  of  all  the  money  she 
earned  she  sent  back  to  them,  and  no  one 
guessed,  as  the  gipsy  Queen  read  the  "  lines  of 
fate  "  in  the  hands  of  wealthy  and  fashionable 
[)eople  at  the  society  assemblies,  that  her  own 
happiness  had  been  cruelly  blighted.  She 
was  always  so  sunny  of  nature,  so  bright  and 
laughing. 

Shortly  after  Queen  Stella  went  to  Columbus 


niri   (Jll'SY   QUEli.V    RKAD   THE    '  LINES   OR    FATK  '    AT    THE   SOCIETY   ASSEMBLIES." 


and  the  mission  she  had  set  herself  to  accom- 
plish. Her  own  advantages  made  her  conscious 
of  the  great  obligation  she  was  under  to  the 
tribe.  So  she  came  to  America  to  prepare  a 
way  for  her  people  to  come  after  her.  Pedro,  it 
was  agreed,  was  to  follow  shortly. 

Certain  members  of  the  Conzales  did  come, 
but  months  passed,  and  there  was  still  no  word 
from  Pedro.  He  had  disappeared  from  Spain, 
it  was  said,  going  no  one  knew  whither.  At 
last,  word  reached  Queen  Stella  that  he  was 
dead  !     Then  she  locked  her  love  and  grief  in 


she  took  it  into  her  head  one  day  to  visit  the 
prisoners  at  the  State  penitentiary.  Why  she 
went  she  does  not  know,  any  more  than  she  can 
explain  why  she  should  forsake  a  circle  of 
friends,  whose  acquaintance  the  most  fastidious 
might  wish  to  cultivate,  and  mingle  with 
altogether  new  people  in  parts  of  the  country 
where  she  was  a  stranger.  But  she  followed 
some  inward  prompting,  and  now  she  is  very 
glad  that  she  did  so. 

It  seemed  to  her  when  she  saw  the  convicts 
that  her  life  was  singularly  free,  while  theirs  was 


382 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


most  pitiful,  shut  in  as  they  were  within  those 
frowning  walls.  Her  presence,  she  thought, 
might  bring  a  little  brightness  and  change  into 
their  unutterably  monotonous  lives.  She  stayed 
there  for  some  time,  laughing  and  talking  with 
the  prisoners  and  warders. 

'I'he  very  ne.\t  day  a  note  was  brought  to  her. 
It  read :  "If  you  are  my  Dolores,  answer. 
Convict  Number  3,003." 

Now  "  Dolores  "  was  what  Pedro  used  to  call 


■'■■  ■ '        WMr^ 


'MJNIiK   STKi'l'ED    KOKWARU." 

h<T,  htif   nr.  one  else  knew  hrr  by  that   name. 
^  '  l;i   answered    the   note  at  once, 

Myin;;  -,\\v  (lui  not  know  the  writer. 

'I'he  next  Sunday,  however,  when  she  went  to 

talk  to  the  prisoners,  she  asked  to  see  Number 

\.      The    prisoner    ste[)()ed     forward,     but 

•     lie   could    .speak    Queen    Stella   lay   un- 

is  at  his  feet.     One  glance  was  enough. 


It  showed  her  the  lover  she  had  lost — her 
Pedro  whom  she  had  mourned  as  dead  !  For 
twenty  years  she  had  believed  him  dead,  yet 
had  always  hoped  against  hope  that  somewhere, 
some  day,  she  might  find  him  alive.  And  now 
her  wish  was  granted  :  she  had  found  her  lover, 
thousands  of  miles  from  sunny  Spain,  and  wear- 
ing the  hateful  garb  of  a  convict ! 

As  soon  as  he  could  compose  himself  Pedro 
told  Queen  Stella  that  he  came  to  America  in 
search  of  her,  wandering  from 
place  to  place,  but  could  get 
no  trace  of  his  adored  Dolores. 
He  had  always  a  wonderful 
magnetism  for  horses.  They 
followed  readily  at  his  merest 
word,  and,  despairing  of  find- 
ing his  sweetheart,  he  became 
a  horse-trainer.  It  was  while 
engaged  in  this  work  that  he 
shot  a  man — in  self-defence,  he 
claims — and  was  sent  to  prison. 
They  call  him  "  Gipsy  Bill  " 
in  the  penitentiary,  for  he  de- 
fied all  authority  and  refused 
to  be  shorn  of  his  long  locks. 
The  emotion  bedisplayed  at  the 
sight  of  his  Dolores  was  the  first 
sign  of  a  softer  nature  the  prison 
authorities hadever  seen  in  him. 
There  is  now  a  very  good 
prospect  of  Pedro  being 
granted  "parole,"  which  is  half- 
way to  a  pardon.  President 
Dunn  and  the  managers  of  the 
penitentiary,  as  well  as  Warden 
Darby  and  Chaplain  Starr,  have 
interested  themselves  in 
Queen  Stella's  lover,  and  have 
aided  her  efforts  to  obtain  his 
release  in  every  way  possible. 
Governor  Nash  has  also  en- 
couraged her  to  hope.  Parole 
once  obtained,  the  way  towards 
pardon  is  clear.  The  gipsy 
Queen's  firm  conviction  is  that 
the  darkest  hour  is  just  before 
the  dawn,  and  that  it  will  not 
be  long  now  before  her  lover  is  a  free  man, 
when  they  will  be  united. 

Pedro,  it  appears,  still  has  Queen  Stella's 
picture  and  the  watch  she  gave  him  when  a 
child.  In  Pedro's  cell  there  now  hangs  a  paint- 
ing of  his  sweetheart,  and  around  his  neck  he 
wears  a  smaller  portrait.  When  he  wakes  and 
looks  at  it,  he  says,  "Good  morning,  Dolores  !  " 


A    CARGO    OF    CATS. 


By  Ashmore  Russan. 

The  author  is  a  director  of  several  Brazilian  companies.      The    following  diverting   story  was  told 
him  by  one  of  the  chief  actors    therein.       For  obvious  reasons  the  names  of  the  people  concerned 

and  of  the  ship  have  been  altered. 


APTAIN  ALEXANDER  McNAB, 
of  the  tramp  steamer  Clyde,  was  a 
stranger  in  the  Brazihan  port  of 
Bahia.  Otherwise  he  must  have 
learned  that  Jos  McAhster  was 
about  the  last  Scotsman  on  earth  to  give  utter- 
ance to  the  soft  answer  that  turns  aside  wrath 
or  to  offer  the  other  cheek  to  the  smiter.  Had 
it  been  his  luck,  or  ill-luck,  to  mix  with  the 
British  colony  he  would  have  heard  stories 
concerning  McAlister,  some  of  them  whispered, 
which  would  have  served  as  a  warning  to  him. 

Certainly  Ca[)tain  McNab  did  not  know  his 
man.  But  opportunities  to  look  Jos  fairly  in 
the  eyes  had  not  been  lacking,  and  he  ought  to 
have  seen  latent  possibilities  in  the  dark,  strong 
face  and  scjuare  chin,  the  heavy,  broad  forehead, 
creased  by  a  vertical  furrow  from  the  nose  to 
the  curling  hair. 

Jos  was  shipping  manganese  ore  from  the 
port  and  had  engaged  the  Clyde  on  a  strict 
time-charter  to  carry  it  away.  Between  the 
captain  and  him  there  had  been  some  little 
friction,  but  nothing  to  speak  about.  However, 
when  the  last  train-load  ought  to  have  been  in 
lighters  at  the  steamer's  side,  Jos  learned  that 
the  trucks  had  toppled  down  an  embankment  a 
few  miles  from  the  wharf. 

With  his  customary  energy  he  set  to  work  to 
save  the  demurrage,  engaged  carts,  and  actually 
got  the  ore  to  the  wharf  by  road  only  a  few 
hours  late.  Then  he  went  on  board  the  Clyde, 
taking  with  him  his  six-year-old  niece,  Marsy. 
The  bearded,  pawky  face  of  McNab  was  not 
visible,  but  his  cat,  a  fine  Persian,  lay  sunning 
herself  on  a  roll  of  tarpaulin. 

"  Oh,  what  a  lovely  pussy  !  "  cried  Marsy, 
clapping  her  hands.    "  Do  buy  her,  Uncle  Jos  1 " 

The  request  was  enough.  Had  Marsy  wanted 
him  to  buy  the  moon,  Jos  would  have  looked 
about  for  the  very  best  substitute. 

"All  right,"  he  said  ;  "you  shall  have  her  if 
the  captain  will  sell  her." 

Just  then  McNab  stepped  on  deck  from  his 
cabin. 

"  Na,  na,"  he  said  ;  "  she's  not  for  sale, 
McAlister.  The  crew's  mostly  Dagos,  and  she's 
their  mascotte ;  keeps  them  from  daily  man- 
slaughter and  throat-cutting.  Besides,  I  couldna 
weel  do  without  her.  But,  there  "—seeing  that 
Marsy  was  on  the;  point  of  crying — "  if  ye'll  send 
another  cat  aboard  warranted  to  kill  rats  and  eat 
cockroaches,  and  pay  that  trifle  o'  demurrage, 
ye  can  tak'  her." 


"  What  demurrage  ?  "  demanded  Jos,  inno- 
cently. "  The  last  of  the  stuff's  on  the  wharf  or 
in  the  lighters  alongside  by  now." 

"  Ye'll  be  ten  hours  late  by  the  time  it's 
aboard  the  Clyde"  returned  McNab;  "an'  tnair, 
I'll  no'  be  able  to  clear  till  to-morrow." 

"  But  you  can't  charge  for  a  delay  caused  by 
an  accident  to  the  train  !  " 

"  Oh,  aye,  McAlister,"  laughed  McNab, 
"  there's  no  allowance  for  that  sort  of  accident 
in  the  charter  party.  Ye've  to  load  a  hundred  an' 
feefty  tons  a  day,  and  the  penalty  for  detention 
is  saxpence  per  ton  o'  net  register.  That's  twa 
thousand  saxpences  a  day,  an'  proportionally 
for  less  than  a  day.  I  could  charge  ye  forty 
pounds,  but  as  ye're  a  countryman  o'  mine  Pll 
let  ye  off  ten." 

The  vertical  furrow  above  McAlister's  nose 
deepened  ;  his  face  took  a  darker  hue. 

"  You  call  yourself  a  Scotsman,  you  infernal 
old  Shylock  ! "  he  cried.  "  I'll  see  you  at  the 
bottom  of  the  bay  before  I'll  pay  you  a  cent." 

"  Ye  wull,  wull  ye  ? "  returned  McNab, 
angrily.  "Thirty  pounds  ye'll  hav'  to  pay,  or 
I'll  see  yoK  at  the  bottom  o'  the  bay  afore  I'll 
sign  yer  bill  o'  lading.  Haud  on  to  that, 
McAlister  !  "  And  McNab  snapped  his  fingers 
in  Jos's  face. 

The  fat  was  in  the  fire  now,  with  a  vengeance. 
Jos  went  for  McNab  in  English,  German,  and 
Portuguese.  The  laist  is  a  fine  language  to  swear 
in,  or  to  heap  on  abuse.  Jos  piled  it  up,  while  he 
strode  the  deck,  his  fists  clenched,  his  eyes 
flashing.  Then  he  suddenly  remembered  that 
Marsy  was  present,  and  pulled  himself  up  with 
a  jerk. 

"  ril  talk  to  you  another  time,  McNab,"  he 
said.     "  Come  on,  Marsy.     Don't  cry,  dear." 

"  I  was  thinking  it  was  a  sair  example  for 
the  bairn,"  McNab  rejoined,  sarcastically. 
"  Never  mind,  lassie,"  he  added,  stroking 
Marsy's  curls,  "ye  shall  ha'  the  cat  if  yon 
raving  madman'Il   send  anither  aboard." 

"I'll  do  that,"  said  Jos.  "Bring  it  along, 
Marsy." 

'J'he  child  had  the  Persian  in  her  arms  in  a 
moment,  and  followed  Jos  to  the  side,  drying 
her  tears  on  the  soft  fur.  But  McNab  inter- 
cepted her  and  took  the  cat  away. 

"  I'd  no  deesappoint  the  bairn  for  the  world," 
he  said,  turning  to  Jos,  "  but  I  must  ha'  the 
Brazeelian  cat  afore  I  pairt  wi'  mine,  an'  I'd  have 
ye  no  forget  that  I'll  want  the  thirty  pounds 
demurrage  afore  I  sign  the  bill  o'  lading." 


3S4 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


Sandy  McNab  had  never  in  his  life  been  in 
greater  danger  of  seeing  stars  and  hitting  the 
deck  of  his  own  ship  with  the  back  of  his  head. 
Luckih',  or  perhaps  unluckily,  for  him,  a  better 
[)unishnient  occurred  to  Jos,  just  as  he  was 
about  to  strike. 

"  Never  mind,  Marsy,"  he  said,  picking  the 
child   up  and  kissing  her,  "  you  shall  have  the 

cat  all  right ;  and  as  for  that "  relapsing  into 

calumnious  Portuguese,  and  suddenly  checking 
himself—"  we'll  send  him  all  the  cats  he  wants  !  " 


WKLI.  .HEND   IIIM    AI.I.  THE  CATS   HE  WANTS  !  " 


1-nnding  at  the  wharf,  Jos  sent  Marsy  home 
and  went  to  his  office.  Ten  minutes  afterwards 
the  storekeeper,  the  junior  derk,  and  the  office 
boy  started  upon  a  cat  hunt,  each  armed  with 
a  hnn<lfiil  of  the  pajier  money  of  Hra/.il,  fuce 
vali:  milrcis,  equivalent  at   thnt    lime    to 

','"'' '<ly  the  word  was  passed  round 
"xiuarler:  "  Scnhor  McAlister  wants  a 
thousand  rnts,  to  be  delivered  at  his  wareliouse 
at  once.     He  will  pay  one  milreis  each." 


Cats  are  plentiful  in  Bahia  and  cheap. 
Mostly  they  are  ugly  and  fierce,  blue -grey  of 
colour,  long  in  the  leg  almost  as  a  greyhound, 
and  thin  as  a  rail.  So  many  negro  women  and 
children,  each  carrying  one  cat  or  more,  had  never 
before  been  seen  in  the  neighbourhood.  Within 
a  couple  of  hours  Jos  had  taken  in  more  than 
two  hundred.  Like  most  other  merchants  in 
the  port  he  had  a  superfluity  of  empty  cases, 
and  as  the  cats  arrived  they  were  stowed  away, 
the  lids  being  fastened  down  lightly.  No  need 
to  bore  holes  in  the  cases — the  cracks 
would  give  them  sufficient  air,  and  as 
for  light,  they  would  fight  less  in  the 
dark.  When  some  twenty  cases  had 
been  packed  with  ten  or  twelve  cats 
each,  according  to  size  of  case  and  cats, 
Jos  recalled  his  emissaries  and  stopped 
payment,  when  the  supply  promptly 
came  to  an  end. 

Having  ascertained  that  Captain 
McNab  was  ashore,  he  had  the  cases 
taken  to  the  wharf,  hired  a  roomy 
boat,  and  soon  reached  the  Clyde,  lying 
about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  away.  As 
he  arrived  with  his  cargo  the  last 
empty  lighter  was  leaving  the  ship's 
side,  and  Brown,  the  mate,  was  shout- 
ing to  the  man  in  charge  : — 

"  Tell  McAlister  the  cap'en  says  he'll 
not  sign  the  bill  o'  lading  till  he's  paid 
the  demurrage.  Oh,  never  mind  ; 
here's  Mr.  McAlister  himself" 

"That's  all  right.  Brown,"  said  Jos, 

climbing  aboard.      "  I've  fixed  it  all  up 

kj      with  McNab,  and  I'm  to  pay  the  thirty 

^1       pounds  to  you.    At  tenpence  exchange, 

^^H      that  will  be  seven  hundred  and  twenty 

.J?^       milreis,  won't  it?" 

Blown  scratched  his  tousled  grey 
head  in  perplexity. 

"  I  never  could  understand  them 
rays  and  mill  rays,"  he  said.  "  I'll 
leave  it  to  you,  if  you  don't  mind." 

"  Certainly,"  Jos  rejoined.     "  Here's 

tlie    money.      Ill    take   a    receipt   with 

the  bill  of  lading.     Now  for  the  cats. 

McNab  said   they  were  to  go   in   his 

cabin." 

Cats?       Oh,  aye.      I    heard    ye    chaffering. 

Little  Missy's  to  have  the  cap'en's   Persian.     I 

suppose  you've  l)rought   a  couple  o'   Brazilians 

with  you  ?  " 

"  I've  brought  two  iumdred,"  .said  Jos,  coolly. 
"They're  in  those  cases,"  pointing  to  the  laden 
boat.  "  It's  a  private  spec  of  McNab's. 
There's  a  great  scarcity  of  cats  at  Pernambuco, 
and  he  reckons  he'll  net  a  conto  of  reis  over 
them." 


A    CARGO    OF    CATS. 


385 


"  WITHIN    A    COUt'LF.    OK    HOUKS    JOS    HAD    TAKEN    IN    IMORK    THAN    TWO    HUNDRED. 

"In  the  cabin,  d'ye  say ?"  exclaimed  Brown, 
incredulously.  "  Two  hundred  cats  in  the 
cap'en's  cabin  ?  " 

"  McNab's  orders,"  said  Jos,  laconically. 

"  McNab  must  ha'  gone  stark,  staring  mad." 

"  iMaybe.  I've  nothing  to  do  with  that. 
He  thinks  he's  very  wide  awake,  and  perhaps  he 
is.  I've  brought  some  fresh  meat  for  them.  I 
dare  say  they  won't  give  much  trouble  if  you 
feed  them  well." 

Having  sprinkled  the  cabin  floor  with  raw 
meat,  Jos  had  the  cases  hoisted  aboard  and 
their  contents  unpacked  that  is,  they  were 
shoved  one  by  one  to  the  door  of  the  cabin, 
which  was  on  the  deck,  aft  of  the  bridge,  and 
the  lids  forced  off.  The  meat  did  the  rest. 
Naturally,  tlie  iialf-starved  animals  caused  no 
immediate  trouble.  When  all  had  been  tempted 
within,  Jos  fastened  the  door  carefully,  secured 
the  Persian,  and  left  the  Clyde.  Jiut  he  had  not 
finished  with  McNab.  Indeed,  he  was  only  just 
beginning  to  score  off  that  worthy. 

Arrived  at  the  wharf,  he  made  his  way  to  the 

Vol.  xi.— 49. 


Alfandega  —  the  Customs  House. 
On  the  road  he  met  the  harbour- 
master, a  crony  of  his  own, 

"'J'he  Clyde  won't  be  clearing 
till  to-morrow,"  he  said.  "Train 
ran  off  the  rails,  and  I've  had  to 
pay  nearly  a  conto  demurrage. 
Omission  in  the  charter  party,  you 
know.  All  the  same,  it's  an  in- 
fernal swindle,  and  1  mean  to  get 
level  with  Captain  McNab." 

The  harbour  -  master  laughed. 
"  Then  you'll  do  it,  senhor  ?  "  he 
said. 

"  With  your  help.  For  instance, 
the  Clyde's  anchored  in  a  forbidden 
spot,  isn't  she  ?  " 

"  True,  senhor.  Captain  McNab 
has  infringed  the  port  regulations  ; 
but  as  he  was  loading  your  ore, 
Senhor  Jos,  I  took  care  not  to 
see  it." 

"  Never    mind    my    ore,"    said 
Jos;    "that's  all   aboard.     What's 
the  maximum  fine  ?  " 
"  A  conto  of  reis." 
"  And  the  minimum  ?  " 
"Two  hundred  milreis." 
"  How  much  does  the  informer 
'^et  ^  " 

"  One  half,  senhor." 
"  See  that  he's  fined  the  maxi- 
mum, and  that  will  be  more  than 
half  the  demurrage  back.     Get  on 
board  as  soon  as  you  can,  Senhor 
Manoel,  there's  a  good  fellow." 
The  harbour- master   hurried  away,  and    Jos 
entered  the  Customs  House,  whistlmg. 

The  Chefe  da  Alfandega  was  in  and  would  be 
delighted  to  see  Senhor  McAlister.  No  other 
foreigner  in  Bahia  was  half  so  popular  as  he  with 
the  native  officials.  Jos  went  to  the  point  at  once. 
"  Has  Captain  McNab  of  the  Clyde  got  his 
papers  ?  "  he  asked. 

"  No,  senhor,"  replied  the  chefe  ;  "he  will  call 
later." 

"Glad   to  hear  that.     I'm   told  he's  done  a 
big  trade  while  in   port." 
"In  what  way,  senhor?" 
"  The  usual  articles — ready-made  clothes." 
The  rather  high  and  mighty  Chefe  da  Alfan- 
dega was  on  his  feet  in  an  instant. 

"  Smuggled  in,  of  course  !     Que  aichoro  !    To 
whom  were  they  consigned  ?  " 

"  Don't  know,"  said  Jos,  "and   it  may  be  an 

idle  story,      liut  it  would  be  just  as  well  to  keep 

back  his  papers  until  vou  have  searched  the  ship." 

"  But,  senhor  ?  "  ' 

"Oh,   he's    no    friend    of  mine,    chefe.      He's 


386 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


M  Ht   SHOVED   ONE    IIV   ONE   TO  THE    DOOR   OF   THE   CABIN 


swindled  me  out  of  more  than  seven  hundred 
milrcis,  anfl  he  has  ^ot  to  pay  for  it." 

"  Ah,  now  I  understand  !  A  thousand  thanks, 
Sc-nhor  \FcAlister ;  the  C/)'fl'^  shall  be  searched— 
''^*  '  arul  detained  -  as  long  as  you  wish." 

■  •' said  Jos,  adding,  as  if  by  an  after- 
thought, •'  Oh,  by  the  way,  there's  a  stiff  export 
duty  on  live  animals  ?  " 

"  Certainly." 

*'  I  was  nearly  forgetting.  The  Clxde  has  two 
hundred  live  cats  aboard,  dood  day,  senhor ; 
nuiny  thanks  for  the  time  you  have  given  me." 
And  Jos  departed,  (|uite  .satisfied  that  lie  had 
scored  heavily. 

When  NIcNab  called  at  the  Customs  House 
f»jr  the  ship's  papers  he  was  inf<jrmed  that  the 
C'hefe  da  Alfandega  had  gone  aboard  the  Clyde 
with  a  numlxjr  of  officers,  and  that  the  ship 
would  be  detained  until  a  search  had  taken  place. 

McNab  turned  pale.     McAlister's  shaft,  fired 


quite  at  a  venture,  had  got  home. 
The  captain  had  sent  ashore  several 
cases  of  ready-mades,  but  there  was 
yet  another  which  he  had  hoped  to 
smuggle  in  that  night.  He  left  the 
Alfandega  at  once  and,  hiring  the 
first  boat  he  came  across,  hastened 
aboard  his  ship.  Brown  met  him 
at  the  rail. 

"  Here's  a  pretty  to-do,"  said  the 
mate.  "Harbour-master's  aboard; 
wants  a  con  to  o'  rays.  Says  we're 
a  hundred  fathoms  too  near  the 
wharf,  and  that's  the  fine.  Then 
there's  the  boss  of  the  Customs 
House  rummaging  all  over  the  ship. 
He's  seized  a  case  of  goods  as  con- 
traband. Says  he  knows  you  were 
going  to  land  it.  I  tell  ye,  cap'en, 
what  with  one  thing  an'  another, 
including  yer  confounded  Dago 
cats,  this  ship's  no  place  for  a 
decent  man." 

"  Hang  the  harbour-master  with 
a  hundred-fathom  rope  I  "  shouted 
McNab,  furious  at  this  budget  of 
bad  news.  "  Chuck  the  Customs 
men  overboard  !  " 

The  Chefe  da  Alfandega,  who 
understood  English,  cut  him  short. 
"  That  would  be  dangerous, 
Senhor  Capitan,"  he  said,  smiling 
blandly,  for  he  did  not  get  a  good 
haul  every  day,  "  and  would  only 
cause  you  much  greater  trouble. 
I  understand  it  was  your  intention 
to  land  the  case  of  clothes  found 
by  my  men.  I  shall  save  you  that 
trouble,  and  you  may  go  to  your 
Consul  if  you  are  not  satisfied.  Then  there  is 
another  little  matter.  You  have  two  hundred 
cats  on  board.  There  is  an  export  duty  on  \\\v^ 
animals    from    Brazil.      The    aggregate    duty, 

Senhor  Capitan,  will  be " 

But  McNab  interrupted  him  with  a  yell. 
"  Twa  hoondred  cats  !     U'here—  where,  mon, 
where  ?  " 

"In  your  cabin,  Senhor  Capitan,"  answered 
the  chefe. 

McNab  rushed  at  the  door  in  a  fury.  It  was 
locked,  but  he  burst  it  open.  For  an  instant 
he  stood  in  blank  amaze,  then  threw  up  his 
hands,  gasping  : — 

"  Good  heavens  !  It's  true  !  Twa  hoondred 
cats  ! " 

Huddled  closely  together,  the  cats  filled  every 
foot  of  floor  space  and  overflowed  it.  Twenty 
or  thirty  sat  on  the  captain's  bunk  ;  at  least  a 
dozen  had  found  standing  room  on  his  chest  of 


A    CARGO    OF    CATS. 


587 


drawers.  Every  bit  of  furniture  that  could  be 
stood  on,  sat  on,  or  luing  on  by  claws  had  its 
cat  or  cats  -even  some  of  the  more  massive 
brackets  and  curios  on  the  walls. 

But  only  for  an   instant.     All   the  meat  had 


The  "  ready-mades "  were  duly  confiscated. 
That  particular  offence  is  a  fre(iuent  one  in 
Brazilian  ports,  punisiiable  l^y  a  fine  of  double 
the  duty  and  seizure.  The  chefe  stretched  a 
point    by  taking    them   off  a   Ijritish   ship,   but 


"  THE   CATS    FII.LEn    F.VEKV    FOOT   OF    FLOOR    SPACE." 


long  been  eaten  and  the  cats  were  anxious  to 
escape.  With  one  accord  they  rushed  for  the 
open  door.  McNab  staggered  back,  recoiling 
from  their  wild  charge,  and  in  a  few  moments 
the  cats  were  dispersed  all  over  the  ship. 

Up  the  rigging  and  the  funnel  stays,  down 
the  open  hatchways,  into  the  forecastle,  on  the 
bridge,  wherever  a  cat  could  climb,  creep,  or 
crawl,  they  went,  and  where  they  went  they 
stayed  as  long  as  they  could. 

The  chefe  shook  with  laughter.  Senhor 
Manoel  fairly  danced  about  the  deck,  choking 
with  merriment. 

"Oh,  Senhor  McAlister  !  Oh,  Senhor  Jos! 
This  is  magnificent  !"  he  cried  at  intervals. 

Captain  .McNab  was  ready  enough  of  speech 
as  a  rule — a  little  too  ready  for  his  health,  on 
occasion — but  speech  failed  him  now.  Dropping 
down  on  a  coil  of  rope  he  hid  his  face  in  his 
great  hands  and  sat  rocking  himself  to  and  fro, 
silent,  except  for  an  intermittent  mutter  : — 
'  That  divil,  McAlister  !     That  divil  !  " 


nothing  happened.  M(-Nab  i)aid  the  line  im- 
posed by  the  harbour  authorities,  but  not  the 
export  duty  on  live  animals,  for  the  Chefe  da 
Alfandega  was  by  no  means  sure  that  cats  were 
intended  to  be  included,  and  there  was  no 
precedent  to  guide  him.  Nobody  had  ever 
wanted  to  export  Brazilian  cats  before.  More- 
over, AIcNab's  cargo  was  not  taken  away.  The 
cats  never  left  the  port.  All  of  them  were 
caught  and  got  rid  of  somehow,  mostly  by  being 
thrown  overboard.  They  say  the  bay  was  dotted 
with  cats  for  the  greater  part  of  the  next  day, 
but  presumably  the  majority  swam  ashore. 

The  Clyde  was  detained  twenty-four  hours. 
After  she  had  steamed  away  Jos  opened  a 
couple  of  bottles  of  champagne  in  his  office  for 
the  Cliefe  da  Alfandega  and  Senhor  Manoel, 
and  the  trio  drank  each  other's  healths  with 
many  "  vivas  ! "  Jos  had  got  back  most  of  his 
demurrage;  and  the  others— well,  there  is  no 
evidence  that  they  left  themselves  out  in  the 
cold. 


Tl^MP 


IN  Spain 

B/BAF^T  Kenned/ 


lOUNI)  that  liriluiei^a  was  off  from 

ihe  main  road  to  Zaragoza  and  I 
'•  u|)  the  idea  of  going  to  it.  I 
1    heard    that  it  was  a    fair-sized 

town,  and  I  knew  that  this  being  the 
<.»-.♦,•  I  svuiild  have  got  better  accommodation 
ihcrc  for  the  night  than  in  the  small  villages, 
but  it  was  in  my  mind  to  push  on  up  to  the 
north  as  rapidly  as  possible.  I'rom  Zaragoza 
I  would  niaki;  for  the  Republic  of  Andorra, 
lhrc*ugh  which  I  would  pass  to  the  French 
frontier.  Once  in  France  my  journey  was  at 
an  end. 

Zarago/a  was  a  long  way  off     Two  hundred 
and  fort V  six  kilometros  !     I   had  just   passed  a 

<»ne  marking  the  distance.  How  far 
.\nuMii  iw.is  off  from  Zaragoza  1  had  no  idea. 
On  the  map  it  looked  as  if  it  might  be  four 
hundred  kilbmetros  still  farther  north.  Hut 
maps  did  not  tell  one  a  great  deal  in  .Spain. 


IX.  On  THE  Road 

^o  Zaragoza 


Our  commissioner's  journey  through 
Almadrones,  Algora,  Alcolea  del 
Pinar,  and  Ateca,  on  the  way  to 
Zaragoza.  Mr.  Kennedy  describes 
his  first  experience  of  drinking  wine 
"  a  trago  "  and  his  meeting  with  the 
quaint  little  company  of  strolling 
players. 


The  road  was  one  of  the  finest 
I  had  ever  tramped  along  in  my 
life.  A  good,  broad  road  without 
the  hardness  that  often  belongs  to 
an  English  road.  And  still  a  road 
that  was  not  too  soft.  One  got  a 
lift  and  a  spring  out  of  it  at  every 
step. 

And  the  day  was  not  as  it  was 
the   day    before.      There   was  no 
steady,    driving,    depressing    rain. 
It  was  a  bright  day,  full  of  sun- 
shine and  tempered  by  a  cool  wind. 

To  walk  on  such  a  day  was  a  delight  to  the 
senses.  It  made  one  feel  like  a  giant  to  swing 
along  in  the  October  air— the  air  that  had  in  it 
just  a  faint  touch  of  sharpness. 

Surely  soldiers  had  passed  along  this  road. 
The  thought  of  it  came  into  my  mind  as  I 
swung  along  with  my  knapsack  on  my  back. 
Tramping  thousands  of  soldiers  —  French 
soldiers — must  have  gone  along  this  road  as  I 
was  going  now.  A  century  ago.  They  must  have 
passed  along  here  on  their  way  to  Zaragoza — 
the  rapacious,  destroying  soldiers  of  Napoleon 
— the  devil-genius  who  laid  waste  to  Spain  and 
whom  England  rightly  chained  to  a  rock. 

Almadrones.  1  had  covered  twenty-eight 
kilometros,  and  the  sun  was  but  an  hour  high 
above  the  distant  mountains.  I  had  met  hardly 
anyone  through  the  whole  of  the  day.  It  was  a 
lonesome  coiuitry — lonesome,  but  still  beautiful 
and  fertile.  Since  the  morning  I  had  met  but 
two  or  three  arrieros — men  driving  mules. 

I  felt  fresh  and  vigorous.  The  day  had  been 
a  wonderful  one.  If  I  had  had  someone  to  talk 
to  it  would  have  been  better,  but  one  can't  have 

George  Newnes,   Limited. 


A     IRAMP     IN     SPAIN. 


389 


everything.  I  would  have  gone  on  farther,  but 
the  last  arriero  I  had  met  told  me  that  the  next 
village  past  Almadrones  was  more  than  twenty 
kilometres  from  it.  Pressing  on  for  it  would 
mean  my  getting  there  in  the  middle  of  the 
night. 

Almadrones  seemed  to  be  composed  only  of 
the  posada,  which  faced  right  on  to  the  road. 
But  I  was  told  by  the  people  who  kept  it  that 
the  village  lay  off  from  the  road  four  kilometros. 

At  first  I  had  some  difficulty  in  getting  the 
food  I  wanted  in  the  posada.  The  old  woman 
who  kept  it  .said  that  she  had  no  coffee  and  no 
huevos  (eggs).  I  did  not  ask  for  meat — it 
would  have  been  useless. 

All  that  there  seemed  to  be  in  the  place  was 
bread  and  wine.  The  wine  would  be  all  right, 
but  I  knew  from  experience  that  the  bread 
would  be  heavy  and  hard.  W'ino  and  that  sort 
of  bread  was  hardly  what  1  wanted. 

The  old  woman's  manner  suggested  complete 
indifference  as  to  whether  my  wants  were  com- 
plied with  or  not.  After  telling  me  that  she 
liad  neither  eggs  nor  coffee,  she  took  no  further 
notice  of  me.  I  sat  down  and  waited ;  it  was 
the  only  thing  to  do. 

My  patience  was  at  last  rewarded,  for  a 
young,  bright  -  looking  woman  entered  the 
posada.  I  appealed  to  her,  and  everything  was 
satisfactory.  There  were  eggs  and  coffee  and 
even  ham  (jamon)  in  the  posada.     I  was  saved. 

I  took  the  precaution  of  cooking  the  eggs 
myself.  The  Spaniards  dealt  too  much  in  oil  to 
suit  my  taste.  The  old  woman  gazed  upon  me 
with  sharp  criticism  in  her  eye  as  I  carefully 
poured  into  the  pan  about  a  tenth  of  the  oil  she 
would  have  put  in.  With  a  great  flourish  I 
cracked  the  eggs,  and  then  I  held  the  pan  high 
up  over  the  flame.  "  Huevos  a  la  Inglesa,"  I 
said.  My  object  was  to  impress  her.  But  I 
fear  that  I  failed.  In  her  eye  was  a  look  of  scorn. 
She  .seemed  in  no  way  enchanted  either  with 
myself  or  my  English  method  of  frying  eggs. 

\Vc  sat  down  to  eat — five  of  us.  There  were 
the  old  lady  and  her  husband,  the  young  woman 
and  her  husband,  and  my  humble  self  The 
men  came  in  just  before  the  meal  was  ready. 

Drinking  wine  "  a  trago."  It  was  at  this  meal 
where  I  received  my  initiation  into  the  art.  It 
was  a  method  of  drinking  wine  that  did  not 
quite  appeal  to  me  at  first.  But  I  soon  got  to 
like  it.     'i'his  was  the  way  it  was  done. 

The  wine  was  contained  in  a  bota  (leathern 
wine-bag)  which  held  something  over  a  quart. 
On  the  top  of  the  bota  was  screwed  a 
stopper  in  which  was  a  very  small  hole.  The 
performer — or  rather  drinker  simply  held  the 
l)ota  high  u[>  above  the  head  with  both  hands, 
and    from    the    small    hole    there    lluw    a    thin, 


fierce  stream  of  wine  right  into  the  drinker's 
wide-open  mouth.  When  the  drinker  had 
stowed  in  a  sutlficient  quantity  he  or  she  passed 
the  bota  on  to  the  next  one,  and  the  next  one 
passed  it  on  to  the  next  one.  To  see  people 
drinking  wine  in  this  way  was  not  what  might 
be  called  an  inspiring  sight,  but  one  got  used  to 
it  as  one  gets  used  to  anything.  And,  besides, 
it  was  really  the  best  way  to  drink  wine — far 
better  than  drinking  it  out  of  a  glass.  In  drink- 
ing wine  in  the  ordinary  way  the  rim  of  the 
glass  goes  into  the  mouth  and  one  necessarily 
tastes  it.  But  in  drinking  wine  "a  trago"  one 
gets  the  taste  and  flavour  of  the  wine  and 
nothing  more. 

In  the  course  of  the  meal  the  old  lady  passed 
the  bota  on  to  me.  I  felt  a  bit  nervous,  but  I 
did  not  like  to  ask  for  a  glass.  It  is  always  as 
well  to  conform  as  much  as  possible  to  the 
customs  of  the  country  you  may  chance  to 
be  in. 

I  raised  the  bota  valorously  up  above  my 
head,  and  — well,  I  got  the  thin,  fierce  stream  of 
wine  right- in  the  eye.  At  this  everyone,  to  put 
it  with  mildness,  seemed  anmsed.  I  believe 
that  this  accident  put  me  into  the  good  graces 
of  the  company.  The  old  lady's  eye  no  longer 
beamed  upon  me  in  an  unfriendly,  critical 
manner.  My  accidental  appeal  to  their  sense 
of  humour  caused  them  to  adopt  a  more 
friendly  attitude  towards  me. 

I  slept  by  the  fire  that  night  in  my  clothes, 
and  the  next  morning  I  was  off  on  the  road 
again.  After  going  for  ten  kilometros  I  came 
to  a  place  called  Algora.  I  was  now  well 
into  the  mountains. 

In  the  posada  at  Algora  I  met  a  priest  who 
was  most  obliging  and  polite.  Indeed,  I  found 
the  priests  right  through  Spain  the  most 
courteous  and  obliging  of  men.  If  a  traveller 
got  into  any  argument  or  difficulty  they  were 
always  willing  to  help  him  out.  I  am  not,  of 
course,  going  into  any  discussion  as  to  the 
merits  of  the  religion  they  taught.  This  would 
be  out  of  {)lace,  and  not  to  the  point.  But  I 
must  testify  to  the  fact  that  they  exercised  a 
civilizing  influence  over  the  people.  In  the 
big  towns  through  which  I  passed  in  Spain  I 
had  no  means  of  gauging  their  influence.  But 
I  had  in  the  country.  And  I  must  say  that 
their  influence  seemed  to  be  for  the  best—I 
mean  for  the  best  from  the  practical  standpoint 
of  keeping  unruly  elements  in  order.  Another 
point.  S[xiin  is  not  the  priest-ridden  country 
it  is  alleged  to  be  by  people  who  know  nothing 
whatever  about  it.  It  is  a  fine  country,  peopled 
by  a  fine  people,  whose  ways  and  methods  of 
fixing  and  thinking  are,  naturally  enough,  their 
own  ways     Spanish  ways. 


39° 


THK    WIDE   WORLD    MAGAZINE.. 


in    Algora 


The    priest 

helloed  to  get  a  meal  ready 

for  me.     He  ground   the 

coffee.  .     And    over    our 

cigarettes  we  tried  to  dis 

cuss     matters    connected 

with  life  and  the  soul.   But 

the  discussion  sailed  under 

difficulties.      My  Spanish 

only   extended   as    far   as 

being  able  to  ask  for  food, 

and  to  ask  my  way,  and  to 

ask  how  much  I    had  to 

pay   for   things.       It    was 

therefore   difficult  for  me 

to  discuss  ethereal,  theo- 
logical    points    with    the 

priest.     He  was  a   slight, 

ascetic-looking  man,  witli 

a  pale,  intelligent  face. 
He   had   not   been   mucli 

around,  but   he  evidently 

knew    something     of 

people. 

About    two   kilometros 

I)ast  Algora  I  saw  a  party 

of    peo|)le    crossing     the 

road.  Some  of  them  were 
mounted,  some  were  afoot. 
As  I  got  nearer  I  saw 
that     there   were    women 

and  children  in  the  parly. 
1  wondered  wlio  they 
could  be,  and  then  it 
struck  me  that  perhaps 
they  were  gipsies.  1 
hurried  towards  them. 

Yes,  I  was  right.  Tiiey 
were  gipsies.  I  could  tell 
them  now  by  their  dress. 

I  liailed  them  and  they  stopped.  I  wanted 
to  .see  what  they  were  like  these  gipsies  here 
in  the  province  of  (luadalajara,  these  strange, 
mysterious  |)eoplc  of  the  open  air.  And  I  gave 
a  woman  who  sat  on  a  hor.se  a  peseta  to  tell 
my  fortune.  She  smiled  as  she  looked  into 
my  hand  and  spoke  something  rapidly  in 
S|MnisI),  the  [jurport  of  which  I  could  not 
follow.  I  said  I  did  not  understand,  and  she 
asked  me  if  1  understood  French.  No ;  I  did 
not  understand  l-'rench  !  And  she  smiled  again 
and  went  on  telling  the  meaning  of  the  lines 
of  my  hand  in  Spanish  as  before.  All  the 
other  gipsies  crowded  around  as  she  was  telling 
my  fortune,  and  I  had  a  good  look  at  them. 
My  object  in  having  my  fortune  told  was  so 
that  I  could  see  them  at  close  (juarters.  They 
were  as  the  gipsies  were  in  (iranada  as,  indeed, 
gipsies   are    the    world    over.      A    brown  faced. 


"l     r.AVE    A     WOMAN     WHO    SAT    ON    A    IIOHSE   A    I'KSKIA     'I  O    TELL 
MV     rOHl'lINK.  ' 

Strange  people,  with  mystery  in  their  eyes. 
They  kept  silence  whilst  the  woman  who  sat  on 
the  horse  spoke.  They  listened  gravely  to  what 
she  was  saying.  What  she  said  I  don't  know, 
but  from  the  look  on  the  faces  of  the  gipsies  it 
was  something  that  in  a  way  was  of  import  to 
them.  It  may  have  been  that  the  reading  of  a 
stranger's  hand — one  from  the  outside  had  for 
them  a  significance  of  its  own.  The  getting  of 
pesetas  thereby  was,  perhaps,  but  a  thing  inci- 
dental. The  hand  of  the  stranger  might  tell 
them  something  something  of  the  attitude  of 
the  world  towards  their  race. 

I    left    them    and    went    along    through    the 
mountains. 


A    TRAMP  IN    SI'AIN. 


391 


The  mountains  now  became  lonesome  and 
wild  and  sinister.  And  far,  far  ahead  I  could 
see  the  road  winding  up  and  around  and  u[) 
anil  around  as  would  wind  a  vast,  huge  snake. 
1  could  see  it  winding  on  before  nie  through 
the  mountains  for  more  than  twenty  kilometros. 
Now  it  was  lost ;  now  the  sun  was  shining  u{)on 
it  as  it  curved  along  far  up  yonder.  To  look 
at  it  produced  in  one  a  feeling  of  cold.  This 
long,  long  winding  road  througli  the  lonesome, 
sinister  mountains. 

I  felt  differently  to  what  I  had  felt  the  day 
before.  Then  the  joy  of  swinging  along  through 
the  free,  open  air  was  upon  me.  But  now  I 
felt  depression.  It  seemed  as  if  I  had  been 
walking  along  this  winding  road  through  these 
wild  mountains  for  an  eternity. 

Alcolea  del  Pinar.  It  was  dark  when  I 
arrived  here.  The  sun  had  been  down  for  two 
hours.  I  had  walked  the  last  four  kilometros  in 
total  darkness.  But  the  road  was  broad  and 
good — one  that  could  not  easily  be  strayed  from 
however  dense  the  darkness. 

I  liked  the  posada  in  Alcolea  del  Pinar.  It 
was  filled  with  cheerful,  noisy  people.  It  was 
good  to  hear  them  talking  and  laughing  loudly 
after  my  walk  througli  the  lonesome'  mountains. 
And  Don  Esteban,  the  propietario,  was  a 
fellow  I  liked.  He  was  a  fine,  big,  hearty- 
looking  Spaniard  with  blue  eyes.  What  often 
struck  me  was  the  number  of  Spaniards  I  met 
with  blue  eyes. 

A  great  wood  fire  was  crackling  and  burning. 
It  was  cold  enough  to  make  sitting  before  it 
with  a  jug  of  wine  pleasant.  I  had  walked  over 
thirty  kilometros  that  day  and  was  feeling  as  a 
man  might  feel  after  doing  a  day's  work.  The 
loneliness  of  the  walk  in  the  mountains  was 
forgotten  as  I  sat  drinking  my  wine  in  the  midst 
of  the  jovial  noise  around  me.  Don  Esteban 
went  around  like  a  worthy  English  landlord, 
supplying  the  needs  of  this  one  and  that  one. 
Indeed,  he  looked  as  t^nglish  as  it  was  possible 
for  a  Spaniard  to  look.  He  had  the  build 
and  almost  the  colour  of  face  of  a  Yorkshire- 
man.     I  liked  Don  Esteban. 

The  next  day,  just  as  I  got  into  the  province 
of  Soria,  I  saw  a  party  which  was  being  convoyed 
through  the  mountains  by  two  men  of  the 
guardia  civil.  The  guards  walked  on  either 
side  of  the  party  with  their  Mausers  held  at  the 
trail.  They  could  have  shot  the  life  out  of  any- 
thing coming  from  any  side.  The  only  chance 
that  a  highway  robber  would  have  of  borrowing 
money  from  the  party  would  be  to  wait  for  it 
in  a  narrow  pass.  Even  then  the  enterprise 
would  [)ossess  its  risks. 

The  party  being  convoyed  consisted  of  an 
old   man   with   a   long    beard,   who   rode  on   a 


donkey,  a  boy  who  trotted  by  his  side,  and 
another  man.  There  were  five  in  all  with  the 
two  guardia  civiles.  They  were  walking  at  a 
smart  pace. 

As  they  came  on  towards  me  I  felt  a  trifle 
anxious.  1  hoped  that  they  would  have  acute- 
ness  enough  to  perceive  that  I  was  a  respectable 
person  -that  I  did  not  belong  to  the  fraternity 
who  rudely  demanded  loans  from  people  before 
they  were  introduced  to  them.  I  walked 
quickly  towards  them,  thrilled  with  nervous  hope. 

It  was  all  right.  I  stopped  and  saluted  and 
the  party  stopped  and  saluted.  The  only  one 
who  did  not  salute  was  the  boy.  He  just  stared 
at  me  with  his  mouth  open. 

The  old  gentleman  with  the  beard  asked  me 
a  question  which  I  did  not  understand,  and  I 
answered  him  politely  in  English.  Then  one 
of  the  guards  asked  me  something.  I  answered 
him  also  in  English.  I  thought  it  as  well  to 
understand  as  little  as  possible.  I  wished  to  be 
going  on. 

But  the  guard  pointed  to  my  eye-glasses,  and 
motioned  to  me  that  he  would  like  to  try  them 
on.  I  took  them  off  and  handed  them  to  him, 
and  he  put  them  on  and  moved  his  head  this  way 
and  that  way  as  people  do  when  trying  glasses 
on  for  the  first  time.  Then  he  handed  them  to 
the  other  guard,  who  also  tried  them  on.  At 
this  they  were  handed  back  to  me.  I  offered 
them  to  the  old  gentleman  with  the  beard  who 
bestrode  the  donkey.  But  he  refused  them 
with  a  polite  gesture.  The  other  man  also 
refused  them,  and  I  put  them  on  myself.  At 
this  the  guards  again  trailed  arms,  everyone 
saluted,  and  the  party  went  on  and  I  went  on. 

Coming  across  a  party  being  convoyed 
through  the  mountains  by  guards  was  instruc- 
tive. It  was  a  proof  that  these  mountains  were 
not  quite  so  safe  as  they  might  be.  I  liked  the 
Spaniards  very  much  ;  but  still,  it  was  easy  to 
see  that  they  were  a  people  who  would  take 
naturally  to  enterprises  of  an  adventurous 
character.  They  were  essentially  a  people  who 
possessed  a  leaning  towards  violence.  Whilst 
their  character  was  fine,  there  seemed  to  be 
in  it  an  undercurrent  of  sullenness.  This  was 
hardly  noticeable  in  the  people  of  Andalusia, 
but  it  was  strongly  noticeable  in  the  people  of 
Castile.     It  is  the  sullen  people  who  kill. 

This  day  was  but  as  the  day  before— a  lone- 
some tramp  through  mountains.  After  meeting 
the  party  that  was  being  convoyed  I  met  no 
one  else  till  I  got  to  Arcos.  I  arrived  there  at 
about  nine  o'clock  at  night,  and  to  my  joy  I 
found  a  cafe,  which  was  presided  over  by  a  most 
impudent  boy. 

1  had  a  difficulty  in  getting  a  place  to  slee]) 
here,  because  of  the  lateness  of  the  hour.   There 


392 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


was  no  room  for  me  in  the  cafe,  and  when  at 
last  I  found  the  posada  the  old  man  who  kept 
it  would  not  allow  me  to  come  in  until  I  had 
first  given  him  a  peseta.     He  was  an  odd-look- 
ing old  man,  who  looked  like  the  stage  figure 
(iaspard  in  the  "  Bells  of  Corneville."     He  had 
avarice  written  all  over  him.     He  came  to  the 
door  of  the  posada  with  a  candle  in  his  shaking 
hand.    On  his  head  was  a  red  night-cap,  conical 
in   shape.     I    would   have   laughed   out   loudly, 
only   that  I  feared    he    might    not    let    me    in. 
After  taking  my  measure  by 
the    light    of  the  candle    he 
decided  that  I  was  a  person 
not   to  be   trusted,   and    he 
demanded  "una  peseta."     It 
was  the  first  time  that 
a  demand  to  pay  be- 
forehand    had      been 
made  of  me  in  Spain. 

W  lien  I  got  up  in 
the  morning  he  asked 
nie  if  I  wanted  break- 
fast. 1  told  him  no ; 
I  would  get 
breakfast  .some- 
where else.  He 
had  injured  my 
feelings  by  ask- 
ing me  to  pay 
beforehand  for 
the  bed.  Whilst 
I  had  a  feeling 
that  pr)ssibly  my 
apjK-arance  war- 
ranted tlvj  mak- 
ing of  such  a 
(leniarul,  I  never- 
theless thought 
that  it  was  only 
fair  play  to  go 
and  get  cheateil 
somewhere  else. 
T  he  a  r <: o  m  - 
rn  o  (1  a  t  i  o  n  I 
got  for  the 
peseta  was  of 
a  «harartcr  the  less  s.ml  ;ib(jut  the  belter. 

to  Ariza,  a  place  twenty-five 
As  usual,  I  met  hardly 
anyone  through  the  whole  of  the  day.  No  one 
seemed  to  be  living  in  the  ( ountry. 

On  th(;  road  to  /aragoza. 

It  was  beginning  to  get  dull.  1  had  tramped 
along  it  now  f(;r  eight  days,  and  I  had  met 
practically  no  one  on  the  road.  I  had  certainly 
met  no  travellers  —  without  I  reckoned  the 
bearded  gentleman  of  the  day  before  and  his 
{)artv  and  <  oiuoy     the  gentleman  who  bestrode 


IfK    lir.MANDKU       UNA    I'ESKTA 


That  night  1  got 
kilometres  from  Arco.s. 


the  ass.  I  thought  of  liim  now  as  I  sat  in  the 
dimly-lit  room  of  the  posada  in  Ariza.  I  won- 
dered who  and  what  he  could  be. 

Eight  days  since  I  had  left  Madrid.  It 
seemed  a  long  time  to  walk  along  a  road  in 
silence,  for  practically  I  knew  no  Spanish  and 
could  therefore  talk  to  no  one  even  when  I  did 
meet  them.  All  that  I  could  do  was  to  ask  for 
food,  and  ask  if  I  were  on  the  right  road.  I 
understood  some  words,  but  not  enough  to 
follow  coherently   what  was  being  said  to  me. 

And  I  had  found  out 
,    .  by    this     time     that 

knowiiig  only  a  little 
of    a   language   often 
enough    only    led    to 
misunderstand  i  ng 
— that  it  was  in  a  way 
worse     than 
knowing  nothing. 
I   would   have 
given    the  world 
to     have     met 
someone     whom 
I    could     under- 
stand   and    wlio 
could    have    un- 
derstood me.      I 
wanted    to    talk, 
but     I     had     to 
keep  silence. 

I  was  now  in 
the  province  of 
Zaragoza,  but  I 
was  a  hundred 
and  twenty-seven 
kilbmetros  away 
from  the  town 
itself.  I  could 
make  that  easily 
enough  in  three 
days  by  forcing 
the  pace  a  little. 
But  I  was  afraid 
of  the  three  days 
— they  would  be 
as  monotonous 
as  the  eight  days  through  which  I  had  gone. 

\\nien  I  came  to  pay  my  score  on  the  follow- 
ing morning,  I  noticed  the  woman  of  the 
])osada  looking  very  intently  at  the  duro  I  had 
given  her,  and  which  she  had  to  change.  My 
bill  had  come  to  about  three  peseta.s,  and  I  was 
to  get  two  pesetas  back.  I  knew  it  was  a  good 
duro,  and  struck  it  on  the  floor  with  the  inten- 
tion of  proving  that  it  was  as  good  as  good  could 
be.  Alas!  it  gave  forth  an  awful  sound — a  dull, 
leaden  sound.  It  did  not  give  forth  the  bright, 
clear  ring  of  silver,  as  I  had  hoped  it  would. 


A     TRAMP    IN    SPAIN. 


393 


was    an 


Andalusian— that  he  belonged  to 
Malaga,  and  that  he  was  a  marinero 
(sailor).  But  I  doubted  this  end  of 
his  yam.  He  had  not  the  look  of 
a  sailor.  One  can  always  tell  men 
who  have  followed  the  water.  They 
have  much  the  same  look  in  the 
eyes  —  and  then  there  is  always 
the  gait. 

Besides,  had  he  been  a  sailor  he 
would  have  picked  up  some  English. 

Vol.  xi.— 50. 


V^5 


"  Malo  duro  !  "  ejaculated  the  woman,  and  I 
had  to  give  her  another  one — after  it  had  stood 
the  test  of  being  rung  on  the  floor. 

I  felt  .sorry  for  myself  I  did  not  possess  too 
many  duros.  And  how  it  came  to  pass  that  I 
had  had  this  bad  one  palmed  off  on  to  me 
escaped  me  altogether.  Spain  was  the  home  of 
bad  coins,  and  I  had  learned  to  be  extra  careful. 
A  bad  duro  had  been  shoved  on  to  me  by  a 
gentleman  of  the  courier  persuasion  in  (jranada, 
and  since  then  I  had  kept  my  weather-eye  open. 
And  one  needed  to  keep  it  open  in  Si)ain. 
They  were  a  charming  people,  Xhe  Spaniards, 
and  I  liked  them  very  much,  1:)ut  they  had  a 
jocose  habit  of  givjng  the  passing 
traveller  bad  money  for  good. 

I  went  out  of -the  posada  and 
walked  along  the  road  looking  at 
the  duro.  It  looked  all  right,  its 
weight  seemed  all  right — but  its 
sound  made  one  shudder.  I  tried 
it  on  several  stones  after  I  got  out 
of  the  village,  but  it  seemed  to  get 
worse.  And  at  last  I  gave  it  up  as 
a  bad  job  and  put  it  back  into  my 
pocket.  It  brought  some  excite- 
ment, to  be  sure,  into  a  journey 
that  was  getting  dull  — but  it  was 
an  excitement  that  I  could  hardly 
afford. 

I  saw  a  man  approaching.  And, 
what  was  more  to  the  pomt,  I  saw 
that  he  was  a  stranger  to  the 
mountains.  How  I  knew  he  was  a 
stranger  I  could  not  have  told. 
But  I  was  certain  of  it,  nevertheless. 

I  hurried  forward  to  meet  him 
He  looked  very  much  the  worse 
for  wear,  and— well,  he  turned  out 
to  be  a  tramp — a  Spanish  tramp.  I 
was  so  glad  to  meet  him  that  I 
gave  him  a  peseta.  I  thought  of 
poor,  little,  old  Aquilino  -  whom  I 
had  got  separated  from  down  in 
Jae'n,  in  Andalusia.  This  man  was 
going  to  Madrid  ju.st  as  Atjuilino 
was. 

He    told    me    that    he 


However,  I  made  him  understand  that  I  had 
been  a  marinero  myself,  and  that  I  was  glad 
that  he  was  one.  And  then  we  shook  hands 
and  parted,  wishing  each  other  good  fortune. 

But  hardly  were  we  fifty  yards  apart  when  an 
idea  came  suddenly  into  my  head.  I  would 
consult  him  and  get  his  opinion  about  the  bad 
duro. 

I  called  him  back  and  showed  it  to  him.  He 
took  it,  looked  it  over  carefully,  and  then 
sounded  it  on  a  stone.  "  Buena,"  he  said,  as 
he  handed  it  back  to  me  with  a  smile. 

I  did  not  understand  him  at  first.  lUit  at  last 
he  managed  to  get  it  into  my  head  that  the  coin 


"  HE   SOUNDED   IT  ON 
A   STONE." 


.'594 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


wu:,  good,  and  the  reason  that  it  sounded  as  it 
did  sound  was  because  it  was  cracked.  I  had 
cracked  it  myself  the  time  I  struck  it  down 
before   the  woman  on   the  stone  floor  of   the 

posada  ! 

That  night   I   made  Ateca,  a  town   of  tour 
thousand   inhabitants.      After  the  small  places 
through  which  I  had  passed  a  town  of  this  size 
wore  a  metropolitan  air.     It  was  Hke  getting  to 
a  centre— a   haven.     There   were   also   people 
living   in    the   country    approaching    it. 
lining  from  my  friend  the  tramp  I  met  several 
|x.'0|)le  coming  along.     The  day  had 
not   turned   out   so  lonesome  as    I 
was  afraid  it  would. 

I  put  up  at  the  Fonda  de  Barca,  a 
good  place.     The  proj)ietario  was  a 
powerfully  built  Spaniard 
with  a  carefully  trimmed 
iK-'ard.      He  was   a    bit 
morose  and  silent,  but  a 
good   sort.       His   name 
was   \'icente,   and   after 
dinner  he  took  me  over 
to    the    cafe   and    intro- 
duced  me' around.       It 
was   here  that    I    met  a 
Spanish      journalist  —  a 
dark  bearded  man  wear- 
ing  a   cap.      We  frater- 
nized   together   and   ex- 
changed ideas  as  well  as 
we  could,      lie  gave  me 
to  understand    that    he 
was  on  a  pa|)er  in  Zara- 
go/a,  and  that  he  was  [)ay- 
ing  a  visit  to  some  friends 
«>f    his   here    in    Ateca. 
Me  was  a   bright,  lively 
fellow,    almost     like    an 
Andalusian. 

the  street  from 
ll.  .1  strolling  com- 

jKiny  of    Spanish   actors 
w  ng  a  theatrical 

p«  .M.i 111. nice.     The  journalist  and  I  went  over 
lo  see  it.     A  seat  near   the  stage  cost  seventy- 

■~   ■  about    fivepence.      I    wanted 

•,  but  he  preferred  to  stop  and 
<  afe. 


\\- 


fivc  ccntimos 


The  hall  was  small  and  the  stage  was  small. 
T  IK  I'  id,  the  actors  gave  one  the  impression  of 
Ik-imi^  bigger  than  the  scenery.  'I'he  audience, 
the  hall,  the  little  stage,  an<l  the  actors  were  in 
a  way  similar  to  what  they  would  be  in  ICngland 
in  a  town  the  s\/r  of  Ateca.  There  was  the 
same  shifting  of  tables  and  chairs  by  the  actors 
when  playing  their  parts,  the  same  difficulti 
with    the   lowering    of    the    rurtain,    th 


es 
same 


'to  me  it  seemed  to  he  a  kind  of 
historical  melodrama." 


eating  of  fruit  and  talking,  and  occasional  in- 
terruptions of  the  audience.  To  my  eye  the 
only  real  difference  was  the  difference  of  lan- 
guage. Being  here  in  this  little  hall  made  me 
feel  almost  as  if  I  were  at  home  in  England. 

The  piece  was  called  "Don  Juan  Tenorio."  To 
me  it  seemed  to  be  a  kind  of  historical  melodrama, 
the  scene  of  which  was  laid  in  the  Si)ain  of  the 
MiddleAges.  ll  wasfullof  liglitsand  loveand  mur- 
der and  intrigue.    It  went  well  with  the  audience. 

The  author  of  it  was  a  man  named  Jose 
Torrilla.  He  had  been  dead  four  years,  the 
journalist  informed  me,  and  now  his  play  was 
having  a  great  vogue.     ^ 


A    TRAMP     IN    SPAIN. 


395 


I  told  them  at  the  fonda  to  wake  nie  up  at 
six  the  next  morning,  but  when  the  knock  came 
on  the  door  of  my  room  I  refrained  from  getting 
uj).  It  occurred  to  me  that  the  time  was 
favourable  for  the  taking  of  a  day  off.  I  had 
had  a  wearisome  tramp  through  the  mountains, 
and  it  seemed  to  me  that  I  was  entitled  to  a 
rest.  I  would  loaf  and  lounge  and  take  it  easy 
for  the  day  in  Ateca,  and  would  start  for  Zara- 
goza  the  following  morning.  So  I  ignored  the 
knock  and  fell  asleep  again. 

I  got  up  at  about  eleven  o'clock,  and  after 
having  breakfast  Vicente  and  I  took  a  gentle 
walk  together  around  Ateca.  It  was  an  old, 
Moorish-looking  sort  of  town  and  had  a  curious, 
irregularly-shaped  market,  the  entrance  to  which 
was  through  an  arch.  We  passed  through  it 
and  went  on  around  till  we  came  to  the  River 
Jalon,  where  there  were  a  lot  of  women  washing 
clothes.  As  we  crossed  over  the  bridge  Vicente 
shook  his  fist  at  the  river  and  exclaimed,  "  Malo 
rio." 

It  was  a  modest,  unobtrusive-looking  river, 
and  I  wondered  why  V^icente  should  abuse  it, 
but  he  gave  me  to  understand  that  it  had 
nearly  destroyed  Ateca.  A  month  before  it  had 
risen  up  and  swept  everything  before  it.  When 
we  got  back  to  the  fonda  he  showed  me  the 
water  mark  along  the  wall.  The  river  had  risen 
six  feet  above  the  level  of  the  main  street 

That  night  I  had  dinner  with  the  chief  of 
police,  an  advocate,  and  a  schoolmaster.  The 
chief  of  police  was  a  good-natured,  smart-looking 
young  man,  and  the  advocate  looked  dreamy 
and  intellectual.  I  was  taken  with  the  advocate. 
He  was  very  unlike  the  sharp-faced,  shifty-eyed 
barrister  one  so  often  sees  in  an  English  court 
of  law.     He  looked  like  a  poet. 

The  schoolmaster,  however,  was  quite  a 
different  person.  His  voice  was  loud  and 
rasping,  and  his  manner  was  most  informing. 
Much  to  my  discomfort,  he  took  me  under  his 
wing.  He  assailed  me  with  innumerable  ciues- 
tions  which  I  did  not  understand.  And  when- 
ever I  tried  to  speak  a  word  of  Spanish  he  was 
extremely  anxious  that  I  should  get  the  sound 
just  right.  He  would  pronounce  the  word  aftir 
me  in  his  rasping  voice,  and  get  me  to  pronounce 
it  again.  And  then  he  would  go  on  at  nic  with 
a  string  of  cjuestions. 

After  dinner  I  went  over  towards  the  hall 
where  I  had  seen  the  play  the  night  before. 
There  was  to  be  another  theatrical  performance, 
and  I  had  got  my  ticket  for  it  during  the  after- 
noon. 


l!ut  there  was  no  one  around.  I  was  sur- 
prised at  this.  I  had  expected  to  see  a  crowd 
at  the  door. 

I  went  in,  and  a  lame  man  came  towards  me 
from  a  small  group  of  people  who  were  stand- 
ing in  the  centre  of  the  hall.  There  were  only 
two  or  three  lights  burning,  and  the  little  stage 
looked  empty  and  dark.  I  held  out  my  ticket 
to  the  lame  man.  He  took  it,  and  then  offered 
me  the  seventy-five  centimos  I  had  [)aid  for  it. 

It  was  as  I  had  thought.  The  money  that 
had  come  in — tiirough  the  sale  of  the  seats 
during  the  day — had  been  so  small  that  the 
little  company  could  not  afford  to  i)lay  for  it, 
and  so  they  were  giving  it  back. 

It  went  to  my  heart.  1  had  once  myself 
been  a  member  of  a  strolling  company  of  [)layers 
to  whom  the  same  thing  had  hap{)ened.  A 
night  came— the  last  night  of  all- -when  not 
enough  money  had  come  into  the  house  to 
make  it  worth  while  playing  to;  And  we  had 
given  it  back  just  as  this  little  Spanish  company 
was  giving  it  back  now. 

I  did  not  take  the  seventy-five  centimos  that 
were  offered  to  me,  but  I  walked  towards  the 
group  standing  in  the  centre  of  the  hall.  The 
lame  man  went  forward  to  the  door,  Someone 
else  was  coming  in  with  a  ticket. 

There  was  the  sehora  who  had  played  the 
lead  in  the  piece  of  the  night  before.  Her  hair 
was  white,  but  she  was  a  vital,  capable-looking 
woman.  She  had,  however,  the  sad  and  worn 
expression  in  the  eyes  that  comes  to  those  who 
have  fought  adversity  for  a  long  time.  She  was 
a  woman,  perha[)s,  of  forty-five — just  one  of  a 
band  of  strolling  players.  IJut  she  had  talent  for 
the  stage.  It  might  have  been  that  if  she  had 
had  a  chance  she  would  have  been  recognised 
by  the  world  as  great.  Chance  is  a  big  word. 
By  her  side  was  a  girl  of  about  twelve  who  had 
also  played  the  night  before.  Her  own  girl. 
And  there  was  another  actress.     And  an  actor. 

I  bowed  to  the  little  group,  and  soon  we  were 
talking  to  each  other  as  well  as  we  could. 

So  I  was  a  "  camarada  "  !  I,  too,  had  been 
an  actor  !  Ah,  bueno  !  And  so  we  talked  on. 
I  managed  to  tell  them  how  the  company  I  had 
been  with  had  had  an  experience  such  as  they 
were  having  now.  And  the  actress  with  the 
white  hair  told  me  that  they  were  going  in  the 
morning  to  Calatayud.  "  Ah  !  ciudad  (city) 
mucha  bueno."  They  were  to  play  there  for  a 
week  (semana).  "  Ateca,  pobre  pueblo  "  (poor 
village).  And  then  we  all  had  coffee  together 
and  I  went  back  to  the  Fonda  de  Barca. 


(To  be  conlinued ) 


When  the  Water  Came  Down. 

A  FISHING  EXPERIENCE    IN   THE    HIMALAYAS. 

Bv  Cai'tain    K.    ^'ENOUR    Daviuson,    late   Indian    Staff   Corps. 

The   author   describes   how   he     and    his    Ghoorka    orderly,    while    fishing  a    mountain    stream, 
were  caught  like   rats  in   a   trap  by  a    sudden  "spate"    which    came    down    from    the    moun- 
tains.     The   orderly   was    carried    away    by    the    raging    flood,    while     Captain    Davidson    was 
left   perched   on  a  narrow  ledge  on  the  face  of  a  cliff. 


--^^^j;;*^' I' R I  N G  the  now  half- forgotten 
Sikkim  Expedition  of  1888— after 
the  scarcely -disciphned  horde  of 
Tibetan  invaders  had  been  driven 
out  of  their  foothold  on  the  heights 

of    I.ingtu   and    the    ICxpeditionary    I'orce    had 

established  a  strong  garrison   at  Gnathong,  on 

the  frontier — the  communications  between  the 

latter  place  and  the  base 

at     I'adoiig     were     main- 
tained    by    a    series     of 

posts  of  varying  size  and 

importance    from    ten    to 

fifteen  miles  apart. 

One  of    the   largest   of 

these  was  at  a  place  called 

kongli   Clui.     "Chu"   in 

Tilx-'tan     signifies      river, 

water,    or    lake,    and    the 

Rongli  —  a  brawling,   j)ic- 

turesijiic       liinialayan 

stream     -  was     here    con 

fined    lo  a  dee|),    narrow 

gorge,  and  spanned    by  a 

rude  but  serviceable  can 

tilever     bridge,    the    only 

practicable  crossing  within 

several    miles— for     pack 

animals,    at   any   rate. 

Hence  the  alleged  im|)ort 

ame  of    the    post,    which 

was    held    by   about   one 

hundred  native  rank  and 

file     undir      two     native 

officers,    with    niyscif    as 

subaltern  in  command  and  the  only  European 

there. 

The  diilics  were  not  loo  arduous,  the  scenery 
and  surroundings  magnificent  beyond  all  descrip- 
tion, and  the  temi)erature  agreeable  the  height 
of  the  valley  itsirlf  was  only  about  four  thousand 
feet,  though  within  a  few  miles  the  mountains 
of  the  I'.hiitanese  and  'I'ibetan  passes  reared 
their  heads  up  to  ten  and  twelve  thousand  feet. 


AUIIIi.K,  (.  AITAIS-     1;. 
INDIAN    SI 

Irom  a  I'lwto.  hy  Allen 


The  variations  of  vegetation  and  temperature 
were  most  striking,  even  within  a  comparatively 
short  journey. 

Beyond  the  periodical  rationing  of  my 
garrison,  and  the  constant  supply  of  escorts 
to  parties  and  convoys  passing  up  and  down, 
there  was  really  little  to  do,  and  time  was 
beginning  to  hang  heavy  on  my  hands  until  it 

dawned  on  me,  whilst 
bathing,  that  the  river 
held  mahseer  in  con- 
siderable numbers,  if  of 
no  very  great  size.  A 
short  voyage  of  discovery 
revealed  some  ideal  pools 
and  runs  at  no  very 
great  distance  both  up 
and  down,  thougli  in 
the  neighbourhood  of 
my  post,  as  I  have  men- 
tioned, the  valley  nar- 
rowed to  a  gorge,  through 
which  the  water  roared 
—  a  seething,  rock- 
indented  torrent. 

It    did    not    take    me 
long     to     make     up    my 
mind  and   to  disi)atch   by 
the    next    post    an   order 
to    Calcutta    for    a    ser- 
viceable     mahseer      rod 
and   a   variety   of  tackle, 
chiefly  spoons  of  various 
sizes  and  an  assorted  lot 
of   traces   and  casts.     In 
due  course,  and  sooner  than  might  have  been 
expected,   these  were    delivered   to   me   by   the 
Service  substitute  for  the  parcel  post. 

The  next  few  days  and  \A'eeks  were  passed  in 
unalloyed  enjoyment,  and  though  in  the  course 
of  them  I  saw  no  signs  of  mahseer  of  any 
notable  size,  still  I  secured  large  daily  bags  of 
fish  averaging  about  a  pound  apiece,  and  occa- 
sionally tou'jhing  three,  which,  besides  affording 


VllNOUK      1)A\1L)S(IN,    LA  I'li 
Al'l-'    Cf)l(l'S. 

ir'  Co.,  Pembroke  Docks. 


WHKN    THIC    WAI'KR    CAME     DOWN. 


;97 


sufficiently  distractmg  sport,  formed  a  welcome 
acklition  to  my  somewhat  mea<;re  and  mono- 
tonous rations.  A  small  fly-spoon  on  the  finest 
of  traces  proved  itself  the  most  uniformly  suc- 
cessful lure  on  these  waters,  though  occasionally 
-more  as  an   experiment   and   a   change   than 


unimportant  in  themselve.V,  added  their  quota 
to  the  main  stream,  altering  its  character  and 
increasing  its  volume.  A  series  of  fascinating 
pools  soon  ensued,  alternated  with  beautiful 
runs,  and  in  the  very  first  of  the  former  I  got  a 
bigger  fish  than  I  had  struck  yet,  a  nice  five- 


THE   BRIDGE   OVER   THE   RONGLI   RIVER   WHICH   THE   AUTHOR   HAD  TO   GUARD. 

Front  a  Photo. 


anythitig  else — I  also  secured  fish  with  a  fly  or 
by  spinning  a  small  minnow  or  dead  Ijait. 

After  some  weeks  of  an  almost  too  facile 
success  of  this  sort  the  game  was  beginning  to 
pall  a  little  when  my  native  orderly — a  (Ihoorka 
with  a  roving  eye  and  gallivanting  tendencies- 
informed  me  that  during"  a  recent  expedition 
among  the  hamlets  of  the  neighbourhood — 
ostensibly  in  search  of  fowls,  eggs,  and  vege- 
tables for  my  consumption — he  had  chanced  on 
some  amazing  pools  two  or  three  miles  down 
the  river,  which,  according  to  his  somewhat 
sanguine  account,  positively  teemed  with  fish 
of  exceptional  size  and  tameness.  I  forthwith 
declared  for  an  expedition  there  on  the  morrow, 
and  made  an  early  start,  accompanied  by  the 
aforesaid  orderly — jangbir— and  an  armed  escort 
of  two  Sepoys,  who,  rather  as  a  demonstration 
than  a  precaution,  were  assigned  the  role  of 
watching  over  me  ironi  the  banks  above. 

The  river  had  been  disappointingly  low  and 
clear  for  three  or  four  days,  and  I  dawdled  down 
for  the  first  mile  or  two,  only  making  an  occa- 
sional cast  in  any  likely  water,  and  getting  an 
insignificant  fish  or  two.  Then  I  broke  fresh 
ground.      A  succession  of   brawling  tributaries, 


pounder.  I  began  to  try  larger  spoons  and  a 
trifle  heavier  tackle,  and  in  the  course  of  an 
hour  or  so  had  several  fish  of  that  size  and  one 
beauty  often  pounds. 

I  had  been  working  my  way  down  stream 
systematically  and  with  enthusiasm,  taking  no 
particular  note  of  time  or  distance.  The  river 
had  entered  a  deep  and  narrow  gorge,  and  the 
almost  [perpendicular  cliffs  lowered  over  my 
head  not  thirty  yards  a[>art.  Perhaps  for  this 
very  reason  I  had  barely  noticed  a  strange  still- 
ness in  the  atmosphere  and  a  dee{)ening  gloom 
in  the  sky  overhead.  A  big  fish  had  risen  half- 
heartedly to  my  spoon  three  consecutive  times, 
and  I  had  determined  to  have  him  at  all  costs 
when  I  was  disturbed  by  hearing  one  of  my 
escort  shouting  volubly  from  the  heights  above. 
On  looking  up  I  saw  him  pointing  frantically 
up  the  river,  whence  I  could  distinguish  a  faint 
roar,  which  grew  most  sensibly  in  volume  even 
during  the  second  or  two  that  I  paused  and 
gazed. 

"  The  water  is  coming  down,  sahib  !  Be 
quick  ! "  shouted  Jangbir,  excitedly.  Then  he 
threw  the  fish  and  my  gun  over  his  shoulder, 
and  gazed  searchingly  at  the  cliffs  on  either  side. 


398 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


Even  as  I  splashed  out  of  the  water,  winding 
up  my  line,  the  muffled  roar  had  become  a 
thunder,  and  as  I  reached  the  dry  shingle  I 
lx.-held  a  most  appalling  spectacle.  A  wall  ot 
muddy  water,  ten  feet  high,  surged  round  the 
corner  of  the  gorge,  two  hundred  yards  above 
us  The  few  yards  of  shingle  lying  between  me 
and  the  cliffs  seemed  miles  as  I  covered  them 
-mv  eve  all  the  while  on  that  awful  wall  of 


could  not  see  any  way  of  getting  up,  hut 
Jangbir  was  making  for  a  spot  where  a  stout  ash 
sapling  grew  in  a  cleft  about  six  feet  high, 
with  a  hint  of  a  shelf  above  it. 

"  Get  on  my  shoulders,  sahib  !  "  he  shouted  in 
the  deepening  roar.  "  Then  take  the  gun  and 
pull  me  up  beside  you  !  " 

"  Right  you  are  !  "  I  answered,  hurriedly.  "  Let 
the  fish  go.     I  can't  save  the  rod,  I'm  afraid  ; 


1    WA-.    iV    IN     rilK    AMI-KOOTS    IN    A    SFCONU. 


water  with  the  thin  white  crest.  Curiously 
enough,  I  noted  nif)re  than  anything  else  a  sort 
of  shiver  whicli  seemed  to  seize  and  pass  into 
the  rliffs  as  the  great  wave  reached  and  washed 
them.  'I'herc  wa.s  no  time  for  any  formulated 
plan  of  escape  from  this  overwhelming  force, 
and  I  am  certain  I  had  no  anticipation  of  ulti- 
mate safety — only  a  blind  resolve  to  reach  the 
cliff  and   scramble   for   life  while  I  could.      I 


but  I'll  stick  to  the  gun  if  1  can."  (It  was  a 
(ireener's  hammerless  of  two  or  three  years' 
proved  reliability,  and  worth  a  struggle.  Jangbir 
always  carried  it  whilst  I  was  fishing,  on  the 
chance  of  a  jungle-fowl  or  pheasant,  and  was 
generally  justified.) 

I  seemed  to  get  on  his  shoulders  with  the 
impetus  of  my  run— letting  the  rod  go,  but 
taking  a  turn  of  line  round  my  wrist — and  was 


w'lii'A'    I'lii-:   \v.\'ii:k   came   ddwx. 


399 


up  ill  iIk-  ash-roots  in  a  second,  and  the  gun 
placed  in  seeming  security  as  far  overhead  as  my 
arms  would  reach.  One  strenuous  heave  landed 
Jangbir  beside  me  ;  another  effort  and  I  was  on 
his  shoulders  again  and  drawing  myself  on  to  a 
shelf  above.  It  was  a  precarious  footing  :  but  I 
got  a  good  liold  of  a  strong  oak-root,  and  had 


log,  get  astride  and  balance  on  it,  low  in  the 
water,  like  a  good  hillman,  with  his  feet  well  in 
front  of  him  to  fend  off  the  debris.  Then  he 
rounded  the  lower  corner  of  the  gorge,  and  I 
began  to  consider  my  own  situation. 

Suddenly  1  felt  the  line  snap  on  my  wrist,  and 
saw  the  white  top  of  my  cherished  rod  bobbing 


111-;  i)iiuiTi;n  away  in  a  wasti-:  of  wiiikling  watens. 


almost  got  Jangbir  up,  when  the  water  was  upon 
us  in  a  mad,  frenzied  swirl  ! 

"  Let  me  go,  .sahib  ;  let  go  !  "  he  shouted,  as 
he  swung  ofiT  to  the  full  length  of  my  arm,  and 
the  root  cracked  and  strained  in  my  other  hand. 
"  It  can  never  hold  us  both  ;  and  I  can  surely 
land  lower  down." 

He  loosed  his  grip  of  my  wrist,  and  do  what 
I  would  his  hand  slipped  through  mine.  He 
drop[)ed  away  in  a  waste  of  whirling  waters,  one 
single  atom  in  a  chaos  of  logs,  crops,  and  drift- 
wood -all  the  first-fruits  of  flood  in  a  congested 
valley.  As  1  .settled  myself  more  firmly  on  my 
edge — the  water  eddying  in  its  first  mad  rush 
a  bare  two  inches  below  my  knees — I  saw 
Jangbir,  with  his  hal)itual  grin,   grapple  a  stout 


drunkenly  on  its  way  down  stream.  I-ogs 
planks,  and  beams  followed,  which  I  recognised 
as  the  reserve  of  my  bridge,  and  an  empty 
ration-box  or  two  told  how  high  the  water  had 
reached  in  the  vicinity  of  my  post.  A  weary- 
looking  sheep  or  two  passed  ne.xt,  and  a  small 
hill-cow,  snatched  by  the  flood  from  the  lower- 
lying  pastures.  Then  came  a  little,  pigmy  hill- 
man,  astride  of  his  own  roof-tree  apparently, 
and  in  i)ursuit,  as  I  judged,  of  the  animals. 

The  cliffs  opposite  stretched  eighty  feet  over- 
luad,  and  sloped  back  in  a  dense  undergrowth 
of  bracken  and  wormwood,  lioth  the  men  of 
my  escort  were  on  the  same  side  as  myself — 
the  same  height,  I  presumed,  above  me— and 
quite  inaccessible.     After  a  time  I  heard  the 


400 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


musical  tinkle-tinkle  of  cow-bells  far  up  the 
opposite  slope,  and  looked  for  some  sign 
of  the  beasts  that  bore  them  or  their  possible 

attendant.  ,  .    •    .•      ..i 

"  Ohe  '  Ohe  '  Ohe  !  "  I  shouted,  imitating  the 
far-reaching  hill-call  as  best  I  could.  I  watched 
intently  and  called  at  intervals. 

The  tinkle  came  nearer  and  nearer  till,  with 
a  sound  like  the  tearing  of  paper  and  a  heave 
of  horns  to  right  and  left,  the  stolid,  foolish 
face  of  an  old  cow  buffalo  broke  through  the 
bracken  above  me.     Astride  her   neck  was   a 


I  was  glad  now  that  I  had  picked  up  some 
phrases  of  hill-speech  in  the  course  of  sundry 
shooting  and  fishing  excursions  in  company 
with  my  orderly.  A  few  halting  phrases  told 
the  little  maid  where  I  was  ;  that  my  men  were 
on  the  cliff  above  me  ;  and  enjoined  her  to  call 
to  the  nearest  village  on   my  side  for  men  and 

ropes. 

I  could  almost  see  her  chuckle  as  she  caught 
si^ht  of  my  cramped  perch  ;  then  she  rose  on 
th'e  old  cow's  back,  and  I  heard  her  shrill  treble 
echo  above  the  roar  of  the  stream  in  the  hills 


I  AtK   III-    AN    Ol.l)   COW    IIUFI'ALO    BROKE   TMNMUr.M     IME    I'UACKKN    ABOVE    ME. 


little  ii,iki-<J  itjii  ye.ir  old  i^prite,  who  peered 
through  a  tangle  of  tawny  hair  and  Sfjucaled 
mischievously.  "  Ohe  yourself  !  Who  calls 
from  below  ?" 

Mine  was  not  a  (ihoorka  regiment,  but  after 
the  introduction  of  the  new  ref^ime  had  retained 
a  good  few  long-enlisted  men  of  that  class,  and 


overhead.  An  answering  shout,  gruff  in  com- 
parison, came  from  one  of  my  escort,  and  then 
again  the  call  trilled  out  over  valley  and  hill  as 
though  it  might  repeat  itself  for  miles.  The 
girl  turned  away  to  gain  higher  ground,  while  I 
waited  and  watched  the  turbid  flood,  hoping 
that  deliverance  was  nigh. 


WHEN    'J'HE    WATER    CAME    DOWN. 


401 


Half  an  hour  passed,  during  which  I  had 
leisure  to  study  the  mood  of  the  d3/-/s-\aden 
torrent,  and  concluded  that  it  was  abating  some- 
what in  violence,  and  had  even  fallen  an  appre- 
ciable inch  or  so.  Again  I  heard  a  rustle  of 
undergrowth  and  a  call,  and  my  little  friend  on 
her  ungainly  mount  reappeared  at  the  opposite 
edge. 

"  Help  is  coming  from  above  to  my  lord,"  she 
shrilled,  adding,  however,  in  a  mocking  tone, 
"  ijut  if  thou  hadst  but  patience  thou  mightst 
walk  across  within  an  hour." 

The  "  thou  "  from  any  but  the  most  ignorant 
native  is  a  familiarity,  if  not  an  insolence;  but 
it  was  rather  refreshing  under  the  circumstances 
from  this  quaint,  bold  little  barbarian. 

"  I  thank  thee,  little  daughter  !  "  I  shouted 
back.  "  It  is  not  very  comfortable  here.  I  will 
walk  across  to  visit  and  reward  thee  on  another 
day." 

"  It  is  well,  my  lord  ! "  retorted  the  minx. 
"  I  have  a  wish  to  see  a  sahib  somewhat  closer. 
But  see — be  ready  ! "  she  continued,  pointing 
over  my  head,  and  I  gathered  from  her  further 
words  that  a  rope  was  being  lowered. 

After  a  short  interval  a  loop  dangled  before 
my  face — a  cord  of  coarse,  twisted  fibre,  but 
slender  enough  in  all  appearance  to  trust  one's 
life  to.  Yet  there  was  no  other  way,  and  after 
all,  I  argued,  I  should  assuredly  find  occasional 
foothold  or  handgrip  to  ease  the  strain.  With- 
out more  than  reasonable  hesitation  I  slung  the 
gun  across  my  back,  secured  the  loop  under  my 
arm-pits,  gave  the  signal  to  haul  up,  and 
embarked  on  my  giddy  ascent. 

The  ro{)e  creaked  and  stretched  under  my 
weight  ;  but  some  handy  roots,  branches,  and 
crevices  enabled  me  now  and  again  to  ease  off 
the  burden  as  I  mounted  laboriously,  but  surely. 
A  long  quarter  of  an  hour  and  I  was  landed, 
somewhat  blown,  on  a  rocky  bluff  beside  the 
two  men  of  my  escort  and  a  small  group  of 
villagers. 

I  waved  my  thanks  to  the  little  maid  opposite 
— now  about  the  same  level  as  myself — who 
clapped  her  hands  in  glee  while  executing  a 
/>as  seul  on  the  buffalo's  back  as  she  saw  me 
safe. 

"  Child,"  I  shouted,  when  I  had  recovered 
some  breath,  "what  is  thy  name?  I  will  bring 
thee  a  present." 

"  Maia  1  Maia  !  Maia  !  "  she  answered,  gaily  ; 
"  but  generally  called  '  The  Owlet ' — daughter  of 
the  Chaudhri  of  Ranchong." 

A  few  words  explained  to  my  escort  and  the 
villagers  the  fate  of  Jangbir,  and  a  voluble 
discussion  arose  among  the  latter.  They 
appeared  to  hold  and  express  the  conviction 
that,   being  a  hillman  and  a  good  swimmer,  he 

Vol.  xi.  -  61. 


would  land  near  a  village  about  a  mile  lower 
down,  where  the  valley  opened  out.  Their 
apparent  confidence  was  a  ray  of  relief  to  my 
conscience,  which  had  been  all  this  time  sorely 
disquieted  on  his  account,  and  I  induced  two  of 
them  to  start  promptly  for  the  said  village  and 
organize  a  search.  An  hour  later  my  misgivings 
were  dispelled  when  they  reappeared  with 
Jangbir  between  them,  holding  forth  volubly 
and  evidently  regarding  himself  as  the  hero  of 
the  occasion. 

"  Ah,  sahib  !  "  he  grinned,  as  he  approached 
me,  "  it  was  better  to  be  on  the  top  of  that  wave 
than  underneath  it.  Had  we  been  a  second 
later  neither  of  us  would  ever  have  come  to 
the  surface.  Alas  !  for  the  fish  and  the  rod  ; 
but  it  is  well  indeed  that  the  good  gun  is 
safe." 

"  And  well  indeed,  too,  that  yoti  are  safe, 
Jangbir,"  I  answered,  warmly.  "  For  the  past 
two  hours  I  have  been  greatly  concerned  on 
your  account.  But  now,"  I  continued,  "it  is 
time  to  return  and  see  how  the  camp  has 
fared.  Have  you  any  money  on  you  to  give 
these  people  for  their  help  ?  I  myself  have  only 
a  few  annas." 

"  I  have  nothing  at  all,  sahib,"  he  said  ; 
"  but  they  shall  come  and  call  on  your  honour 
at  the  camp."  He  spoke  a  few  rapid  sentences, 
to  which  the  villagers  assented  effusively. 

"And  tell  them,"  I  added,  pointing  across 
the  gulf,  "  to  bring  the  little  girl  or  her  father, 
if  they  can  communicate  with  them." 

I  waved  my  hand  to  the  little  maid  as  we 
turned  away,  and  she  answered  with  a  shrill 
farewell.  I  was  relieved  to  find,  on  reaching 
home,  that  my  camp  had  been  well  above  flood 
level.  The  ration-boxes  I  had  noticed  had 
been  swept  away  from  a  spot  lower  and  nearer 
the  river,  where  the  men  had  been  used  to  cook 
their  food. 

I  was  seated  under  a  tree  outside  my  tent  on 
the  following  day,  writing  for  a  new  rod,  when 
a  sentry  approached  from  the  quarter  guard, 
bringing  a  strangely  assorted  grouj)  of  visitors  — 
some  ragged  hillmen  and  a  gorgeously-raimented 
little  girl. 

The  latter  was  my  small  deliverer,  and  she 
took  upon  herself  with  instant  aplomb  to  intro- 
duce the  others — the  men  who  had  pulled  me 
up  and  her  own  father. 

I  called  Jangbir  to  interpret,  and  then 
expressed  my  thanks  as  becomingly  as  possible, 
first  in  words  and  afterwards  in  currency.  After 
a  few  further  formalities  the  men  of  the  party 
were  given  permission  to  inspect  the  camp, 
while  "The  Owlet"  remained  seated  on  the 
ground  by  my  tent  and  expressed  a  wish  to  see 
things. 


40< 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


It  may  be  imagined  that  there  would  be  little 
in  the  average  Service  kit  to  interest  a  maiden  of 
lender  years,  yet  the  child  had  some  shrewd, 
pert  comment  to  make  about  everything.  A 
circular  magnifying  shaving-glass  specially  roused 


suddenness  of  the  spates  on  these  hill- 
born,  hill  -  fed  streams,  unheralded  by  any 
local  atmospheric  disturbance  ;  but  with- 
out that  day's  experience  should  scarcely 
have     credited     the     avalanche  -  like    descent 


SHE  TOOK    UPON    HUkSELF   TO   INTRODUCE   THE   OTHF.KS 


her 


envy,    and     I     proiiiisud    it    to    her 


as   a 


wcdduig  present— for  the  following  year  this 
ten-yearold  minx  was  to  marry  a  rich  old 
m.rrhant  of  Kalimpong. 

1    Iiad  (jftin   heard  and   read  of   the  terrific 


of    water    which    had    so    nearly    finished    my 
career. 

I  fished  the  Rongli  on  many  subsequent 
occasions,  and  secured  many  a  fine  fish  ;  but 
never  again  without  the  most  careful  precautions 
against  a  similar  surprise. 


A    MYSTERY   OF   THE    BUSH. 


By  Dr.  A.  C.  Watts. 


Benighted  in  the  New  Zealand  bush,  and  unable  to  proceed  farther  on  account  of  floods,  the  author 
took   refuge    in    a    deserted    hut    by   the    roadside.      There    he    met    with    a   weird    and    remarkable 

experience,  which  is  here  described. 


^mm^ 


OME  years  ago  I  was  riding  through 
the  backwoods  of  the  North  Island 
of  New  Zealand,  my  destination 
being  a  homestead  on  one  of  the 
largest  sheep  stations  in  that  district. 
Night  was  fast  approaching,  and  for  the  past 
two  hours  rain  had  fallen  incessantly,  at  first 
only  lightly,  but  increasing  steadily  as  evening 
came  on.  The  road  I  was  following  was  an  un- 
frequented one,  although  in  past  years  it  had 
been  the  main  highway - 
from  north  to  south. 
Now,  however,  one 
might  ride  all  day  with- 
out seeing  a  soul. 

When  about  nine 
miles  from  the  home- 
stead I  came  to  the 
banks  of  a  creek,  which 
could  usually  be  crossed 
almost  dry-footed,  but 
was  now  swollen  by  the 
rains  into  a  dirty  and 
dangerous  -  looking 
stream,  which  I  did  not 
care  to  try  to  ford  with- 
out a  guide,  or  at  least 
until  I  could  see  the 
bottom. 

I  dismounted  and 
stood  on  the  banks  for 
some  time  thinking. 
Then  I  remembered 
seeing,  a  couple  of  miles 
back,  a  small  cabin,  a 
little  off  the  main  road.  Here,  I  thought,  I 
might  be  able  to  get  some  information,  so  I 
returned  in  search  of  the  place. 

When  I  came  close  to  the  hut  I  was  saluted 
by  a  chorus  of  barks  from  dogs  of  all  descrip- 
tions, but  found  no  one  at  home.  The  dogs 
were  enclosed  in  a  large  space  fenced  in  with 
wire  netting,  and  were  evidently  a  rabbit  pack, 
for  these  animals  were  a  great  scourge  in  this 
particular  district. 


THE   AUriKlK, 

From 


As  it  was  now  nearly  dark  I  thought  I  had 
better  try  to  make  myself  comfortable  until  the 
owner  returned,  so  I  turned  my  horse  loose  in 
a  kind  of  enclosure,  where  there  was  plenty  of 
grass,  and,  after  partially  changing  my  damp 
clothing,  looked  about  for  something  to  eat. 
I  found  a  sufificiency,  rough  but  ready.  The 
dogs,  I  had  noticed,  were  well  provided  with 
food,  and  so  I  presumed  (as  was  really  the  case) 
that  the  owner  contemplated  being  absent  for 

the  night  at  least. 

It  was  still  pouring 
with  rain  ;  and  in  a 
mountainous  country, 
with  snow  -  capped 
peaks,  I  knew  that  the 
warm  rain  would  melt 
the  snow  and  cause  all 
the  little  streams  to  be- 
come impassable  rivers. 
There  was,  therefore, 
no  immediate  possi- 
bility of  crossing  the 
creek. 

The  hut  had  one 
large  room,  fitted  up 
with  a  big  fireplace, 
door  in  the  middle, 
one  window,  and  a  few 
shelves  containing  books 
and  cooking  utensils ; 
.a  rifle  and  shot  -  gun 
hung  on  the  wall,  with 
ammunition  along- 
side. 

The  dog-kennel  was  about  three  hundred  feet 
from  the  front  of  the  hut.  Then  came  a  stretch 
of  cleared  land,  and  then  a  clump  of  bush 
which  faced  the  main  road.  The  hut  stood  on 
the  banks  of  a  small  ravine  covered  with  dense 
Inish,  which  ran  back  for  thousands  of  acres  to 
the  sea.  There  was  only  the  one  road— the 
way  I  had  come— and  the  nearest  neighbours 
were  nine  miles  one  way  and  eleven  miles  the 
other. 


1)N.    A.    C.    WATTS. 

a  Photo. 


404 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


I  soon  turned  into  the  blankets,  and  must 
have  slept  for  some  hours  when  I  was  roused 
by  a  curious  feeling,  almost  indescribable,  as 
though  someone  had  been  looking  steadily  at 
me.  The  dogs  were  growling,  and  as  I  sat  up 
in  bed  I  thought  I  heard  footsteps  passing  the 
front  of  the  hut. 

The  door,  I  should  mention,  was  only 
fastened  with  a  wooden  latch,  with  a  string  by 
which  to  pull  it  up  outside. 

I  struck  a  light.  It  was  midnight.  I  got 
up,  threw  a  log  on 
the  fire,  and  lis- 
tened awhile,  but 
not  hearing  any 
sound  lay  down 
and  soon  fell 
sound  asleep. 

The  loud  bark- 
ing of  the  dogs 
roused  me  again 
later  on,  and  I 
distinctly  heard 
llic  sound  of  the 
wooden  latch 
dropping  into 
place.  Now  tho- 
roughly aroused,  I 
jumped  up  and 
ran  to  the  door, 
but  could  not  see 
anyone.  'J'he  rain 
liad  ceased,  but 
the  night  was  very 
dark.  I  called  to 
the  dogs  to  lie 
down  and,  return- 
ing to  my  bed 
again,  tried  to 
sicrp.  I  eventu- 
ally dozed  off,  and 
ihe  sun  was  well 
up  when  I  awoke 
next  morning. 

As  I  sat  on  the 
edge  of  the  bed 
thinking  over  the  night's  disturbances  I  was 
surprised  to  see  a  number  of  muddy  foot[)rints 
made  by  a  naked  foot  on  the  hard  clay  floor. 
They  were  not  nnne,  for  I  had  not  been  outside 
the  door  bare  footed,  and,  besides,  these  were 
larger  thai;  mine. 

Now,  no  one  could  get  to  me  from  my  friends 
on  account  of  the  water  ;  there  were  no  side 
tracks,  as  I  well  knew,  and  there  were  no  natives 
within  fifty  miles.  Who,  then,  was  my  visitor? 
It  could  not  be  the  owner  of  the  hut,  for  he 
would  have  roused  me  and  not  have  remained 
out  in  the  wet. 


I    TIIKF.W    A    LOG   ON    THR    FIRE    AND    I.ISI  FNEH    AWHIf.E. 


As  the  rain  had  ceased  I  took  a  look  at  the 
creek,  which  was  now  overflowing  its  banks, 
carrying  logs  and  debris  down  at  a  great  rate.  It 
was  obviously  unsafe  to  cross  either  for  horse  or 
footman.  I  therefore  returned  to  the  hut,  fed 
the  dogs,  and  whiled  the  day  away  cooking, 
eating,  smoking,  and  reading. 

AVhen  night  came  on  I  loaded  my  revolver 
and  lay  down  partially  dressed.  This  night 
passed  in  practically  the  same  manner  as  the 
preceding  one.     Twice   I    awoke  disturbed  by 

noises,  but  could 
never  see  anyone, 
as  it  was  too 
dark. 

The  third  night 
came,  and  I  was 
roused  as  usual — 
this  time  about 
10.30  p.m.  As  I 
lay  listening  I  dis- 
tinctly saw  some- 
o  n  e  pass  the 
w  i  n  d  o  w ,  w  h  i  c  h 
had  no  blind. 

I  was  so  worked 
up  by  this  time 
that  I  determined 
to  keep  watch  for 
m )'  m )'  s  t  e  r  i  o  u  s 
visitor.  Just  a 
few  yards  from  the 
hut  door  stood  the 
remains  of  a  huge 
tree.  The  shell 
only  remained  ; 
all  the  inside  had 
rotted  and  been 
burned  away  by 
fire.  This  would 
make  a  fine  place 
to  hide  in,  and, 
accordingly,  with 
my  revolver  in  my 
belt  and  the  rifle 
in  my  hand,  I 
crept   in    to   await   developments. 

After  what  seemed  hours  of  waiting  I  heard 
the  dogs  commence  growling— quietly  at  first, 
then  louder.  Acting  op  an  inspiration,  I  ran  to 
the  kennel-door  and  set  them  free.  Out  they 
came  as  though  shot  fr^.  a  gun,  and  raced 
across  the  open  towards  the  clump  of  bush, 
but  returned  in  a  few  mmutes,  seemingly  cowed 
and  frightened.  They  crawled  into  their  kennel 
and  refused  to  come  out  again,  although  I 
coaxed  them. 

'i'his  was  strange  ;  dogs  that  are  kept  confined 
are  usually  only  too  glad   to  be   loose.      What 


could  have  frightened  them  ? 
tree,  I  waited  expectantly. 

After  a  time  the   dogs  commenced  to  growl 
again,  and  from  growling  proceeded  to  barking 


A    MYSTERY    OF    THE    BUSH. 
Returning  to  my 


405 


wrapped  round  the  body.  "Stop!  What  do 
you  want  ?  '  I  called  out,  loudly.  The  figure 
paused,  and  then,  without  the  slightest  warning, 
rushed   straight  at   me.      I   raised   my  riflt  and 


OUT   THEY   CAME    AS   THOUGH    SHOT    FROM    A    GUN. 


and  howling.  It  was  now  bright  moonlight. 
Time,  12.45  a.m. 

Peeping  through  a  crack  in  the  tree,  I  clearly 
saw  something  white  moving  in  the  clump  of 
bush.  Nearer  and  nearer  it  came.  The  dogs 
were  now  cjuite  frantic,  rushing  up  and  down 
their  enclosure,  crouching  in  the  far  corners,  and 
whining — I  might  almost  say  yelling— con- 
tinually. 

I  soon  saw  that  the  white  object  was  coming 
towards  the  hut.  I  waited  until  it  got  within 
hailing  distance,  then  I  stepped  out  and  looked 
at  it.  I  beheld  a  tall  figure,  apparently  that  of  a 
man  with  long  hair  and  beard,  a  spear  in  one 
hand  and  something  which  I  could  not  make 
out  in  the  other.  The  legs,  arms,  and  head 
were  bare,   but  a  garment  of  some  kind    was 


fired,  but  evidently  missed  him,  for  he  still  came 
on.  As  he  rushed  past  he  struck  at  me  with  a 
murderous-looking  knife,  making  a  long,  but 
not  deep,  cut  in  my  shoulder. 

I  saw  that  he  was  a  man  with  long,  grey  hair 
and  matted  beard,  with  a  sheepskin  wound 
round  his  form,  a  kind  of  spear  in  one  hand 
and  a  knife  in  the  other.  But  his  eyes  !  The 
ferocious  glare  in  them  I  shall  never  forget. 

'I'he  dogs  were  still  howling  dismally,  but 
they  did  not  come  to  my  assistance,  although 
the  kennel  was  open. 

On  rushed  the  mysterious  stranger,  and  I 
followed,  intent  on  avenging  the  assault.  Past 
the  hut  and  down  the  banks  of  the  ravine  he 
went,  and  then,  as  he  ascended  more  slowly  the 
steep  banks  on   the  other  side,    I   dropped  on 


4o6 


THE    WIDE    WORLD     MAGAZINE. 


"  IIK   STKUCK    AT    MK    WITH    A    Ml)KUEI<OUS-U)OKING   KNIFE.' 


one  knee  and  gave  him  all  the  barrels  of  my 
n-volver.  He  did  not  stop,  and  presently  dis- 
appeared in  the  dense  bush.  I  waited  about 
until  daylight,  and  then  with  some  difficulty  got 
si:veral  of  the  dogs  to  accom|)any  me  while  I 
followed  up  his  tracks.  I  found  a  few  spots  of 
blood,  but  could  go  no  farther ;  I  was  thoroughly 
unnerved  and  exhausted.  The  dogs  obstinately 
refused  to  follow  the  trails,  running  back  con- 
tinually to  their  kennel. 

There  were  dogs  of   all  kinds  in  the  pack, 

some  that  could  have  thrown  a  wild   bull,   but 

not    one    would    attempt    to    assist    me,    and 

they  seemed  even  more  frightened  than   I   was. 

I  his  pu/.zled  me  considerably. 

I '        '    ot  through  that  day  and  night  1  never 
•"'■I'  ,  but  on  the  following  morning  at  day- 

light—I  did  not  take  my  clothes  off  all  night-  - 
1  saddled   my   horse,   and  with  great  difficulty 


and  danger,  after 
being  nearly  waslied 
away,  managed  to 
cross  the  Hooded 
creek,  and  rode  to 
the  homestead  at 
top  speed. 

T he  manager 
scarcely  credited 
my  extraordinary 
tale,  but  the  sight 
of  my  ugly  wound 
somewhat  con- 
vinced him.  The 
hut -keeper  whose 
cabin  I  had  occu- 
[):ed  was  at  the 
liomestead  waiting 
for  the  creek  to  go 
down,  but  he  could 
throw  no  light  upon 
my  adventure,  and 
positively  refused 
to  risk  his  life  in 
attempting  to 
return  at  once. 
Accordingly  I  left 
them  and  made  for 
the  nearest  town 
to  get  my  wound 
properly  seen  to, 
T  hen  I  had  a 
pretty  severe  attack 
of  nervous  prostra- 
tion. 

It  was  nearly  a 
year  later  that  I 
got  the  sequel  to 
this  remarkable  experience.  When  the  manager 
had  the  bush  at  the  back  of  the  hut  cleared 
the  bones  of  a  man  were  found.  A  knife  and 
a  broken  shepherd's  crook  lay  beside  him, 
also  an  old  sheepskin.  At  the  inqu'ry  which 
was  held  it  was  decided  that  the  remains 
must  be  those  of  a  man  who  had  disappeared 
two  years  previously  from  a  neighbouring  sheep- 
run  and  was  thought  to  have  roamed  about  in 
the  bush  and  gone  insane.  The  fear  displayed 
by  the  dogs  is  to  be  ex[)lained  by  the  fact  that 
most  dogs  are  afraid  of  madmen.  It  was  a 
miracle  that  the  crazy  wanderer  did  not  murder 
me  in  the  hut  while  I  slept ;  he  probably  would 
have  done  so  had  not  the  dogs  roused  me  and 
put  me  on  my  guard.  Anyway,  I  am  still  alive 
to  tell  the  tale,  and  none  the  worse  for  the 
experience  save  for  the  long  scar  on  my 
shoulder. 


The  Story  of  My  Chinese  God. 

Bv  RoHERT  Banks,  late  of  the    P.  and  O.  Company's  Service. 

The    author's    hobby    was    the    collection  of  Chinese  and    Japanese    curios,    and    whilst    on    the    China 
station     he     attempted    to    gain    possession    of    a    particularly    fine     god     which     he     saw     in     a    joss- 
house.       What    happened    subsequently   he    here    relates,    including   the    strange    manner    in  which  he 
finally  got    the  idol  after  it  was  apparently  lost  to  him  for  ever. 


ALWAYS  liad  a  great  liking  for 
curios  and  rare  objects  even  as  a 
youngster,  so  that  when  I  joined 
the  P.  and  O.  service  as  a  steward 
I     found     many    op[)ortunities    for 

pursuing   my  hobby  and  making  a   fair  amount 

of  money  for  myself  into  the  bargain. 

In  the  course  of  my  voyages  between  England 

and  the  Far  East  I  had 

secured  and  disposed  of 

many     good     specimens 

of   nearly   every    kind   of 

native    art,   especially 

carvings     in     wood    and 

ivory  ;    but  when   after  a 

time    1    was    ordered    to 

remain    for   a    period    at 

a  Chinese  station   of  the 

company   I  found   myself 

right    in    the    heart    of   a 

(lisirict    which     abounds 

with    the    quaintest    and 

most     beautiful     objects 

imaginable.       In    this 

congenial   soil  my  hobby 

grew    upon    me    until     it 

became  a  perfect  4iiania, 

and    I    soon    got    to    be 

recognised,    amongst    the 

natives     and    Chinese 

laliourers    who    were 

em[)Ioyed    in    connection 

with    our    ve.ssels,     as     a 

ready    market    for    good 

Japanese     and     Chinese 

curios  of  all  descriptions. 

Like    other    nations    the    Chinese    fill    their 

temples  with  the  best  specimens  of  their  arts, 

and  some    of   the    idols   are   really  remarkable 

examples    of  skill    and    workmanship.      These, 

however,  are  naturally  very  difficult  to  obtain, 

and  your  life  would  pay  the  penalty  if  you  were 

caught,   or  even   suspected   of,    removing    their 

deities. 

It    was  ihrougli    one    of   these   gods    that    I 

nearly   lost    my   life,    and    sustained    an    injury 


MK.    ROIIF.KT     BANKS,    LATK     OK    THE     H.    ANIJ     O.    COMI'ANYS 

Frojit  a\  SEUViCE.  [Thoto. 


which  took  two  years  to  repair,  and  which  will 
never  cease  to  remind  me  of  the  adventure  so 
long  as  cold  or  changeable  weather  exists. 

It  happened  in  the  early  part  of  1888,  when 
I  was  at  Woosung,  near  Shanghai,  as  chief 
steward  on  board  the  P.  and  O.  ss.  Java.  The 
weather  was  piercingly  cold,  and  those  who 
could  avoid  it  did  not  often   show  their  noses 

outside    the    cabins    and 

lobbies.       The     morning 

before  we  were  to  sail 
for  Swatow  I  went  on 
deck  to  have  a  smoke 
and  watch  the  loading  of 
the  last  part  of  our 
cargo.  Tyongphong,  our 
Chinese  stevedore, 
caught  sight  of  me  idly 
looking  on  at  his  work, 
and,  coming  forward,  he 
began  to  tell  me  of  a 
Shanghai  report  that  there 
had  been  trouble  and 
lighting  at  Swatow-,  the 
port  for  which  we  were 
bound.  The  converted 
Christian  Chinese,  he 
said,  had  been  playfully 
wrecking  the  temples  and 
destroying  the  gods  of 
the  heathen  idol  worship- 
pers. "  Me  coming  with 
ship,"  said  he,  "and  it 
all  lightee  me  gettee  you 
some  nicee  gods."  He 
had  done  me  good  service 
before  and  had  a  fair  idea  of  the  colour  of 
my  money  from  past  experience,  so  that  he 
was  eager  to  help  me  now. 

The  old  Java  made  only  an  indifferent 
passage,  for  we  met  with  adverse  winds  and 
heavy  seas,  but  she  eventually  arrived  .safe  and 
sound  at  Swatow. 

No  sooner  was  it  possible  to  leave  the  ship 
than  I  obtained  the  captain's  permit  for  myself 
and    Tyongphong    and    started    for    the    shore. 


4o8 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


When  we  landed  the  Chinaman  made  inquiries, 
and  was  assured  that  the  Shanghai  news  was 
correct,  and  that  several  temples  and  joss-houses 
had  been  wrecked  during  the  disturbances. 

This  information  was  quite  good  enough  for 
me,  and  I  accordingly  tried  to  engage  a  con- 
veyance to  take  us  inland.     The  prices  asked 


the  villainous-looking  heathens  who  were  fol 
lowing  us  about  like  a  swarm  of  bees  from 
attacking  me.  One  fellow  began  pulling  my 
clothes  about  and  generally  overhauling  me, 
and,  stupid-like,  I  let  my  temper  get  the  better 
of  me  and  knocked  the  scoundrel  down.  The 
fat  was  in  the   fire  then,  and  no  mistake  !      It 


1    KNOCKED   THE   SCOUNDREL   DOWN. 


seemed  ruinous,  and  as  it  was  very  cold  we 
decided  tliat  it  would  be  just  as  well  to  walk. 

We  IkuI  not  got  far  when  it  became  evident 
that  my  I'-nglish  dress  was  creating  bad  feeling 
amongst  the  small  army  of  (Chinese  who  were 
following  us,  but,  nevertheles.s,  we  took  no  notice 
and  ke|)l  on  our  way. 

We  walked  steadily  on  imtil  we  were  about 
twelve  miles  from  the  shore.  The  attitude  of 
the  irowd  behind  became  more  menacing  every 
moment,  and  presently  I  saw  that  I  was  only 
risking  my  life  by  going  farther.  It  took  all  the 
persuasive  powers  of  Tyongphong   to   prevent 


was  only  after  a  severe  struggle  that,  with  the 
heroic  assistance  of  my  Chinese  friend,  I 
managed  to  escape  from  the  enraged  crowd. 

Tyongphong  suggested  that  we  should  get 
back  to  the  ship  again  by  another  route  and  as 
rapidly  as  possible,  and  I  was  not  slow  to 
consent.  After  a  few  miles'  walk  without  any 
hostile  signs  from  the  Chinese  my  eagerness  to 
reach  the  ship  disappeared,  and  the  sight  of 
some  ruined  joss-houses  quickly  made  me  foiget 
everything  but  curio  -  hunting.  My  Chinese 
friend  and  I  were  soon  busy  bargaining  for 
carvings  and  other  loot  from  the  temples.     One 


Till':   sroRV   OF   mv  chinkse   c;oi). 


409 


partly-destroyed  joss-house  presently  attracted 
my  attention,  and  a  really  splendid  carved 
image  which  I  saw  c\[JOsed  through  the 
broken  walls  caused  me  to  hurry  towards 
the  spot.  I  elbowed  my  way  through  a 
crowd  of  Chinese,  closely  followed  by  Tyong- 
phong.  I  noticed  as  I  moved  that  tiiese 
children  of  the  Sun  were  by  no  means  pleased 
with  my  intrusion.  A  nearer  sight  of  the  image 
gave  nie  a  wild  desire  to  possess  it,  and  I  turned 
to  my  Chinese  friend  and  said,  excitedly,  "Cet 
me    that   god,"   at    the   same    time   holding   a 


down,  and  I  little  thought  I  should  see  the  old 
Java  again,  much  less  return  to  England. 
'J"yongi)hong  shouted  one  word  to  me — "  Run  !  " 
— and  1  scarcely  needed  a  second  hint  to  try  to 
escape  at  all  costs.  Plunging  desperately  into 
the  crowd  I  scattered  them  right  and  left, 
and  my  flight  was  so  sudden  and  my  rush 
so  fierce  that  I  got  to  the  fringe  of  the  mob 
before  they  realized  what  I  was  doing.  Tyong- 
|)liong  was  close  at  my  heels,  and  together 
we  pegged  away,  gradually  leaving  the  howl- 
ing crowd    behind.      So  great  was  the  tension 


V         -  ^     ■ 


I    llAt)    l'OR(;olTKN    TO    KXIUACI'    Tlin;    KMFE    FROM    MV    HAND. 


sovereign  before  his  eyes.  The  action  h;i(l 
eviilently  been  noticed  l)y  the  crowd,  for  hostile 
murmurs  arose.  Suddenly  1  felt  a  smart  blow 
on  my  left  hand,  which  was  resting  on  my  hip, 
and  a  sharp  pain  in  my  hand  and  back.  Look- 
ing down  at  my  hand,  I  saw  that  one  of  the 
Chinamen  had  driven  a  long  spike  or  rude 
dagger  clean  through  my  hand  and  into  my  back. 
The  danger  was  all  the  more  apparent  when  I 
saw  that  the  gigantic  ruffian  whf)  had  wounded 
me  stood  calmly  by  without  making  any 
attempt  to  escape.  Quicker  than  I  can  write 
it  a  hundred  hands  were  uplifted   to   strike   me 

Vol.  .\i.— 52. 


of  my  feelings  at  the  time  that  I  had  for- 
gotten to  extract  the  knife  from  my  hand,  and 
it  was  only  when  we  were  at  a  safe  distance 
tb.at  we  stopped  for  this  purpose.  Tyongphong 
told  me  that  the  last  man  to  give  up  the  chase 
was  the  ruffian  who  had  stabbed  me.  He  had 
pursued  us  with  dogged  persistence,  loudly 
calling  to  us  to  give  him  back  his  knife  !  This 
has  since  struck  me  as  decidedly  humorous. 
For  a  man  to  boldly  request  the  return  of  a 
weapon  with  which  he  has  endeavoured  to 
murder  you  requires  a  more  than  ordinary 
amount  of  assurance. 


4IO 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


We  reached  the  ship's  side  again  in  safety, 
and  the  first  man  to  greet  me  was  the  quarter- 
master. He  seemed  to  doubt  if  I  was  myself 
or  a  spirit,  for  the  news  of  my  death  had 
already  reached  the  ship,  and  a  search  party 
had  been  selected  to  go  inland  in  the  morning 
to  recover  my  body  and  gain  particulars  of 
my  death. 

The  excitement  of  the  ordeal  had  now 
passed,  and  with  fiuicter  feelings  came  excru- 
ciating pain,  for  the  cold  had  got  hold  of  my 
wounded  hand  and  side. 

On  getting  my  wounds  bandaged  I  went  to 
my  bunk,  and  after  a  stifT  glass  of  whisky 
prepared  to  slee|).     Sleep,   however,   refused   to 

come  to  me,  and,  what  with  the  pain,  the   past 

excitement,     and      an 

overmastering    desire     to 
become  possessed  of  that 

god     I     had    seen,    my 

brain    would    not    remain 

quiet. 

My  recovery  was  slow, 

and   over   a    year    passed 

Ijefore   I    had   more   than 

|>artial    use  of    my  hand, 

i)Ut  I  never  lost  my  mad 

di.'sire     to    gain     posses- 
sion of  that  Chinese  idol 

I    hail    seen    for    a    few 

minutes    through     th<- 

ruined    wall   of    the    inss 

house. 

When   I   resigned   liom 

thf    I'     nid  O.   Service  a 

y«"-|  ^o     afterwards 

on.:  (il    the   last  things   1 

did    was    again     to    give 

gold      lo      the      Chinese 


stevedore  who  had  been  my  com[)anioii  in  lUe 
adventure  which  so  nearly  cost  me  my  life,  and 
leave  instructions  with  him  to  obtain  tliat  idol 
if  ever  it  should  be  possible. 

Some  two  years  after  my  return  to  London 
I  received  a  wire  from  a  fellow-steward  who  had 
known  me  in  the  China  Seas,  asking  me  lo 
come  to  the  docks,  as  he  had  a  good  curio  for 
me.  As  I  had  been  engaged  in  the  import;ilion 
and  sale  of  valuable  Jnpnncse  and  Chinese 
curios  since  my  return,  I  went  off  at  once  to 
the  docks  and  met  mv  friend.  "Come  down 
to  the  store-room,"  he  said,  after  greeting  me, 
and.  leading  the  way  he  took  me  to  a  corner 
where  stood  something  covered  with  a  white 
cloth.      "How   is  that?"  he  said,   wlii[)ping  off 

the  cover,  and  to  my 
joy  and  surprise  I  found 
myself  face  to  face  with 
the  identical  Chinese  god 
which  had  so  nearly  cost 
me  my  life  ! 

There  is  little  else  to 
tell.  The  idol  was  recou- 
nised  as  exceptionally  fine 
in  every  detail,  and  it 
formed  part  of  the  stage 
furniture  in  a  well-known, 
play  for  some  time. 
L\entual]y,  while  on  ex- 
hibition at  the  North- 
undjerland  Hotel,  Lon- 
don, it  was  purchased  for 
one  hundred  and  sr\rnty 
pounds  by  a  wealthy  col- 
K'Ctor.  Thus  ended  my 
ac(iuaiiitaiice  with  the 
most  remarkable  curio 
in  my  collection. 


Mil.,   CIIINKsl     (;,ill    WHICH    NKAKI.V   COST   Mir    AIMII..K 
'■-'III  a]  „,s   ,. I, .-,,..  [P/io(y. 


Odds   and    Ends. 


A    Strange    Picnic    Ground 


All    that    is    left    of    the    Buffaloes— The    Milkman's    Artifice— A    Modern 
"  Peter    the    Hermit,"    etc. 


j 


I'ST  about  six  o'clock  one  dark  and 
foi^gy  Novemlicr  morning,  two  years 
ngf),  the  Burlington  overland  fast 
mail  train,  "No.  8,'  was  travelling  at 
eighty  miles  an  hour  in  an  attempt 
to  make  u[)  several  hours  that  had  been  lost  in 
waiting  at  Chicago  for  the  English  pouches.  At 
Riverside,  twenty  miles  west  of  Chicago,  engine 
No.  1,401  was  shunting  freigh tears.  By  one  of 
those  unaccountable  mistakes  which  sometimes 
occur  the  "  train-dispatcher  "  had  failed  to  set 
the  signals  against  the  overland  "flier"  while 
the  freight  train  was  on  the  main  track.  Mean- 
while No.  8  was  thundering  westwards  at  eighty 
miles  an  hour  through  a  fog  which  rendered 
objects  more  than  three  hundred  feet  distant  invi- 
sible. Both  engine-drivers —the  one  on  No.  8 
and  the  man  at  the  throttle  of  No.  1,401 — seem 
to  have  seen  one  another  at  the  same  moment. 
As  each  saw  the  huge  engine  of  the  other 
come  up  out  of  the  fog  their  brains  acted  like 
lightning.  Kelly,  of  No.  8,  threw  down  his 
throttle,  clapped  on  the  air-brakes,  and  then 
held  his  brealh  and   waited  for  the  crash.     The 


other  engine-driver  threw  his  throttle  wide  open 
— reversed.  Thus,  before  the  three  hundred  feet 
of  space  between  them  had  been  bridged,  the  im- 
petus of  the  two  great  monsters  which  had  been 
flying  toward  each  other  had  been  changed  so 
that  they  were  going  in  the  same  direction,  and 
when  ihey  struck  the  "flier  "'  had  slowed  down  to 
less  than  half-speed.  Engine-driver  Kelly  was 
shot  through  his  cab  window,  beside  the  boiler, 
and  from  there  rolled  to  the  ground,  a  bleeding 
mass.  His  fireman,  too,  was  badly  hurt,  and 
the  conductor  of  the  "flier"  and  a  number  of 
the  mail  clerks  were  shaken  up.  None  of  the 
crew  of  the  freight  train,  however,  were  much  hurt. 
No  damage  was  done  to  any  of  the  passenger 
conches,  which  contained  nearly  five  hundred 
people,  but  some  of  the  freight-cars  were  driven 
down  the  track  to  Bcrwyn,  two  miles  away.  The 
only  wheels  that  left  the  tracks  were  those  shown 
in  our  photograph.  The  two  engines,  it  was  found, 
had  "  locked  horns,"  so  that  it  was  only  with 
great  difficulty  they  could  be  separated.  There 
is  no  doubt  that  the  presence  of  mind  of  the 
two  engine-drivers  averted  a  terrible  catastrophe. 


IH1-.-.1-;    1  \Vu    l-,M,I.M-.>,    INliX  IKICAlll.V    I.OCKK.O   TOtiETHER,    FORM    A    STRIKINf;    TKSTIMilNV   T ")   THE     M  Alil'KLI.OlS     l-KEbENCK  UK    MIMJ 
I- rout  a]  OK    THEIR    ENGINE-DRIVERS,    WHICH    AVEKTEIJ   A    TEKRIMLE   CATAS TRorilE.  [P/toiO. 


412 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MA(;AZINE. 


The  strangest 
picnic  ground  in 
tlie  United  States 
is  undoubtedly  the 
la  Jolla  Caves, 
situated  about 
twelve  miles  north 
of  San  Diego, 
California.  These 
caves  are  seen  in 
the  next  photo- 
graph we  repro- 
duce. 'I'hcy  are 
i  nconi  pa  rably 
grand—  huge 
caverns  with  high 
vaulted  roofs, 
which    echo 

strangely  to  the  careless  chatter  of  the  happy 
picnickers,  who  row  in  and  out  in  their  tiny 
skiffs.  'I'he  great  plateau  above  the  caves  is 
crowded  with  people  playing  games,  and 
children  clamber  fearlessly  over  the  steep 
volcanic  rocks.  The  majestic  grandeur  of 
the  scenery  seems  to  form  a  curiously  incon- 
gruous setting  for  the  prosaic  outings  which 
take  [)lace  here. 

With  what  ruthless  hands  the  numberless 
herds  of  Iniffalo  which  once  roamed  the  vast 
prairies  of  Canada  and  the  United  States  have 
l)een  swept  away— as  related  in  ''  How  '  Buffalo 
Hill'  Won  His  Name,"  in  our  April  number — ■ 
some  faint  idea  may  be  formed  from  the  photo- 
graph below,  which  was  taken  at  a  prairie  siding 
on  the  Canadian  I'acific  Railway.  For  a  long 
time  after  the  terrible  butchery  had  been  com- 


TIIE    STKAN(;EST    FIC.N'U;    (IKfJlMi     l  IHI       INIII-U     s1A1I>-      Mil       lA 

y-'rOI/t  a]  JOI.LA    CAVES    AT    SAN     I)IK(;0,    CALIKIUNIA.  [rJlOtO. 


pleted  the  Indians,  who  killed  off  the  buffalo 
for  the  sake  of  their  hides,  made  a  living  by 
collecting  the  bones  for  use  as  a  fertilizer,  and 
the  great  piles  seen  in  our  illustration  are 
intended  for  use  in  this  way.  It  is  interesting 
to  note  in  this  connection  that  there  is  only 
one  wild  herd  of  buffalo  left,  the  animals  in 
the  Yellowstone  National  Park  being  more  or 
less  tame.  This  wild  herd  exists  almost  in  the 
Arctic  Circle,  and  is  guarded  by  a  solitary 
Canadian   mounted  policeman. 

Any  of  our  readers  visiting  a  foreign  country. 


Irom  a  Fhoto  by\  WA.TIN<,  Ty   UK  SBNT  BAST  FOR   VSE  AS   FEKTILIZER.  {N.   P.   Edivard: . 


ODDS    AND    ENDS. 


4'3 


and  desirous  of  purchasing  some  small  article, 
would  be  somewhat  surprised  if  quietly  in- 
formed:  "Oh,  you  needn't  go  out ;  the  shop 
will  be  coming  round  presently."  And  yet 
this  is  what  hap[)ens  in 
Athens.  It  is  a  common 
sight  to  see  a  pedlar 
leading  a  diminutive 
donkey,  sandwiched  in 
between  two  bulky  glass- 
fronted  show-cases,  which 
constitute  his  "shop." 
The  stock  usually  con- 
sists of  drapery,  sta- 
tionery, and  sweets,  and 
as  these  perambulating 
shop-keepers  have  no 
rent  to  pay,  and  are  not 
dependent  on  the  custom 
of  any  particular  locality, 
like  the  ordinary  trades- 
man, they  do  very  well. 

Our  next  photograph 
shows  the  ingenious 
fashion  in  which  a  milk- 
ing difficulty  was  over- 
come.      In    India    cows 

will  rarely  yield  their  milk  unless  their  calves  are 
tied  in  front  of  them.  This,  of  course,  is  incon- 
venient and  sometimes  impossible,  so  that  the 


...atsa 


.  MBULATING    ' 

From   a 


stuffed  with  straw,  as  shown  in  the  photogra[)h, 
and  placed  in  front  of  the  animal,  which  is 
completely  satisfied  with  the  dum.my.  The  cow 
seen  in  our  illustration  pined  terribly  when  her 

calf  died,  and  all  efforts 
to  induce  her  to  lake  to 
another  one  failed.  As 
a  last  resort  her  owner 
fell  back  upon  the  milk- 
men's ruse.  The  skin  of 
the  dead  calf  was  stuffed 
with  straw  and  placed  in 
front  of  the  cow.  She 
recognised  it  instantly, 
and  has  yielded  her  milk 
—  some  ele\en  quarts 
daily  — ■  regularly  ever 
since,  licking  the  calf 
skin  with  great  content 
during  the  operation. 

The  curious  personage 
seen  in  the  following 
})hoto.  was,  previous  to 
the  Boer  War,  a  hermit, 
and  lived  near  Kroon- 
stad,  existing  on  the 
charity  of  the  neighbour- 
ing farmers.  On  the  outbreak  of  hostilities  he 
made  himself  the  cross  seen  in  the  snap-shot, 
and  wandered  about  the  country  like  a  modern 
"Peter  the  Hermit,"  preaching  a  holy  war  and 
exhorting  the  Boers  to  fight.  His  ministrations, 
however,  were  put  an  end  to  by  the  7th  Pom- 
pom Section    R.A.,    who   captured    him.       He 


SHOP  "    IN    ATHENS, 
Photo. 


THE    INI>IA>I    Mir.KMAN's   ARTIFICK — A   CAI.F-SKIN     IS    STUFFED 

WITH    STKAW    AND    II.ACFD    M-.AU    THE    COW   IN  OKDfc  U  TO   INDl'CE 

h'roill  a\  HKI;    To   VIKI.D    HKK    MII.K    r.EAUlLV.  [Photo. 

Indian  milkman  like  his  En'j;lish  colleague,  a 
shrewd  and  enterprising  person — has  hit  upon  a 
novel  scheme  to  deceive  the  cows  and  make 
them  gi\e  up  their  milk  willingly.    A  calfskin  is 


A    MODERN 

J-'roiii  a] 


'peter    the    HEKMIT"— HE    WENT   AIIOUT   AMONG 
THE    BOERS    l'REACHIN(;    A    HOLV    WAR.  [PhotO. 


414 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


From  a\ 


THE   RESULT   OK    A   SUBSIDENXE   AT  THE   CENTRAL    RAILWAY   STATION,    AMSTEKDAII. 


Photo. 


aiarchcd  with  the  section  from  Kroonstad  to 
Pretoria,  barefooted,  and  carrying  his  heavy 
cross  and  the  fantastic  weapon  seen  in  his  left 
hand. 

The  snap-shot  given  above  does  not  illus- 
trate the  effects  of  an  earthciuake,  as  might  be 
thought,  but  shows 
the  result  of  a  sub- 
sidence of  the  foun- 
dations of  one  of  the 
buttresses  of  the  Cen- 
tral Railway  Station, 
Amsterdam.  The 
whole  of  this  city,  as 
our  readers  are  aware, 
is  built  on  piles  (see 
"  A  City  on  Stilts  "  in 
our  issue  for  .August, 
lyoj),  and  the  sink 
ing  of  some  of  these 
in  the  soft  mud  has 
raus-d  the  building 
to  slip  sideways  in. 
a  curiously  drunken 
fashion.  Owing  to 
the  massive  masonry 
of  which  it  is  built, 
and  the  exceptional 
softiK-ss  of  the  earth 
composing  the  site, 
I^rrit  dilTi'iilty  w.'is 
(•\inTiriiced  in  build- 
ing this  fine  station. 
The  portion  seen  in 


Front  a\ 


A  kice-i'Lantkr's  House  in  r.ouNiio. 


the  photograph,  not  being  of  any  great  import- 
ance, has  apparently  been  left  to  its  own  devices, 
and  will  probably  continue  to  astonish  visitors 
to  the  city  until  it  finally  disappears  altogether 
in  the  oozy  mr.d  of  its  foundations. 

We  present  herewith  a  photograph  of  a  rice- 

[)1  a  liter's  house  in 
Brunei,  Borneo.  The 
agriculturists  of  this 
almost  unknown  Brit- 
ish possession  migrate 
from  their  villages 
once  every  year  and 
build  peculiar  little 
eyries  of  the  kind 
seen  in  our  photo. 
These  are  erected  in 
the  jungle  clearings, 
where  the  natives 
plant  their  rice,  and 
the  owners  live  in 
them  until  the  crop 
has  been  gathered. 
The  huts  are  made 
high,  so  as  to  allow 
the  farmer  to  have  a 
clear  view  over  his 
firld,  for  when  the 
rice  is  ripening  huge 
flocks  of  birds  hover 
about  the  fields,  on 
looting  bent,  and 
these  have  to  be 
{Photo.        frightened  away  with 


ODDS    AND     ENDS. 


4'5 


o 

of 


From  a\ 

nuicli  shoulin 
and  l)cating 
gongs.  After 
the  harvest  the 
land  is  allowed 
to  lie  fallow  for 
ten  years,  and 
so  new  houses 
and    new  clear- 


A    WOOUI'fcCKER  S   STORKIIOUSE    IN    A    TREE-TKUN'K. 


U'hoto. 


i^^^y: 


RIYANAirr^,.^ 

ij  rfiijan  uia  a  65TUTT 


i^COr-^tttS/^ 


t  i  n  u  a  1 1 y  re- 
quired. Some 
idea  of  the 
height  of  these 
aerial  farm- 
houses will  be 
gathered  by 
comf)arisonwith 
the  European  lady  in  the  fore- 
ground. Admission  is  gained  by 
means  of  a  notched  pole. 

Students  of  bird-life  will  be 
keenly  interested  in  the  remark- 
able photograph  above  repro- 
duced. This  shows  a  [liece  of  bark 
-taken  from  a  pine  tree  in  the 
Sierra  Nevada  Mountains  of  Cali- 
fornia- which  contains  a  wood- 
[)ecker's  cupboard,  filled  with  the 
[irudent  bird's  store  of  food.  The 
woodpecker  had  first  pecked  out 
."■  series  of  holes  in  the  bark  and 
then  filled  them  with  acorns, 
sometimes  placing  two  in  one  hole. 
The  acorns  were  so  cemented  in 
th:it  they  kept  their  position  until 
Mr.  Woodpecker  wanted  a  meal, 
when  he   dug   one   or   more  out. 


THE  AWE-INSPIRING  NAME  OF  AN  INDIAN  STATION- 

Froin  a  Photo. 


-IT  CONTAINS  NINETEEN  I.ETTEK 


Altfjgether,  this  curious  store- 
hou.se  is  a  wonderful  example 
of  the  bird's  cleverness  and 
ingenuity. 

An  ofticer  stationed  in  India 
sends  us  the  quaint  little  snap- 
shot next  reproduced.  He 
writes  :  "  I  enclose  a  photo. 
(jf  the  name  of  a  station  on 
the  Madras  Railway.  As  you 
will  see,  it  is  too  long  to  get 
(;n  to  the  plate  !  The  name 
of  the  station  is  Periyanaikan- 
palayam,  meaning  the  'City 
of  the  four  Naikain.'  "  One 
trembles  to  think  what  the 
P>ritish  porter  would  make  of 
this  awe-inspiiing  title.  With 
its  nineteen  letters  it  must 
surely  come  very 
near  being  the 
longest  name 
possessed  by 
any  railway  sta- 
tion. Do  any  of 
our  readers 
know  of  a  sta- 
tion which  can 
beat  it? 

\\'e  have  now 
to  consider  a 
very  remarkable 
snap  -  shot,  for 
which  an  enter- 
prising photo- 
grapher and  a 
skilful  "ski"- 
i  u  m  |)  e  r    are 


From  a] 


SKI      -IL  M  II    K     IN     MID-AIR. 


[/'hoto. 


4i6 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


J' 10)11  u 


jointly  responsi- 
ble. The  man 
on  the  "  ski  " 
wished  to  be 
taken  nego- 
tiating a  jump, 
and  while  the 
photograjih  e  r 
was  standing 
ready  to  snap- 
shot him  ii  i  s 
friend  leaped 
clean  over  his 
head  and  was 
photographed 
in  that  position. 
The  jiim|)  was 
about  fifteen 
yard.s. 

Ever)'one  has 
heard    of    the 

great  Mohammedan  pilgrimage  to  Mecca,  but 
very  few  |)eople  know  how  the  journey  is  made 
or  what  manner  of  men  the  pilgrims  are.  The 
pilgrim  season  which  has  just  closed  has  been  a 
particularly  busy  one.  The  photograph  repro- 
duced above  shows  a 
^roup  of  pilgrims  waiting 
at  Sue/,  to  embark  for 
Jeddah,  the  port  of 
Mcci  a,  from  whence  they 
will  j(jurney  to  the 
Holy  City  itself.  These 
pilgrims  come  from  all 
parts  of  Asia  and  also 
from  ICuro[)e  and  Africa, 
.ind  some  of  then)  take 
two  years  getting  to 
Sue/,  as  they  have  t(j 
make  long  marches 
:u  TOSS  the  deserts  of 
rilx,-t  and  Mongolia  be- 
fore they  can  take  ship. 
They  are  most  interesting 
people,  and  the  varieties 
of    dress    and     language 


Ht     UA\      J  I 


I /'//<)/(). 


among  them  are 
amazing.  Those 
who  have  already 
been  to  Mecca 
can  be  distin- 
guished by  the 
green  they  wear 
in  their  turbans. 
Needless  to  say. 
many  fall  out  and 
die  from  one 
cause  or  another, 
and  a  goodly 
number  of  those 
who  set  out  for 
the  Mohamme- 
dan H  o  1  y  o  f 
Holies  never 
see  their  homes 
again. 

The  savage 
has  a  great  many  blessings  which  are  unknown 
to  his  civilized  brother.  The  native  with  the 
square  yard  of  calico  and  string  of  beads  which 
serve  him  for  a  costume  does  not  have  to  worry 
about   the   fit  of  his  coat  or  the  fact  that  his 

trousers  are  getting  baggy 
at  the  knee.  Look,  for 
example,  at  our  last  snap- 
shot, which  comes  all  the 
way  from  Mexico.  It 
shows  a  Zapotec  Indian 
in  his  waterproof  coat, 
prepared  for  all  kinds  of 
weather.  This  coat  is 
made  of  nothing  else  than 
a  plaited  base  of  dried  pal- 
metto leaf,  covered  with  a 
sort  of  thatch  of  the  same 
material.  No  matter  how 
hard  it  rains,  this  unique 
overcoat  will  kee|)Out  the 
wet,  and  — unlike  certain 
niac-kintoshes  known  to 
civilization  —  it  is  light 
and  well  ventilated. 


TIIK   CURIOUS   MACKINTOSH    CAPF.  OF    THK   ZAIOTIX    INUIAN.S. 

Front  a  Photo. 


\ 


IT    THRKW    ^^E    CLEAN    OVER    ITS    HACK." 

(SKE    PAGE   422.) 


The  Wide  World  Magazine. 


Vol.   .\I. 


SEPTEMI5ER,    1903. 


No.  65. 


i!^ 


Mr.  Eastwood's   experience  is  probably  unprecedented  in   the  annals 
of  big-game    shooting.     To  be  tossed  twice  and  finally  knelt  upon  by 

an  infuriated   animal   weighing   two   tons,  and  then — with  a    fractured  arm,  four  broken   ribs,  and  other 
injuries — to  wait  eight  days  for  medical  assistance,  is  an  ordeal  that  only  a  man  of  uncommon  vitality 

and  nerve  could  survive. 


II'IA'    miles    north   of  the   Equator, 

and    a    little    more    than    thirty-si.\ 

degrees    ea.st    of    (Ireenwich,    is    a 

sheet   of   water   some   fifteen    miles 

long  and   five  miles  wide.     This  is 

Lake   Baringo.      Baringo   is   the  most  northern 

station  of  the  British   East  Africa  IVotectorate. 

It  is   about  sixty   miles   from   the  nearest  white 

man  and  eighty  miles  from  the  Uganda  railway, 

from  which  it  can  be  reached  in  five  or  six  days' 

travelling  by  caravan.      It   was   at   Baringo  that 

I  had  an   encounter  with  a  rhinoceros  tliat  will 

ever    remain    in    my    memory.     'Lo    be    tossed 

twice    and    knelt    on    by   an    infuriated    animal 

weighing  two  tons,  and   then  to  wait  eight  days 

before  medical  assistance  could  be  obtained,  is 

an   experience    that    I  am    sure    very  few  men 

hanker   after ;   and    when    those    few    men    are 

found   it  is  equally  certam   that    I   shall  not  be 
Vol.  .\i.— 53. 


one  of  them.  Nevertheless,  the  experience  has 
fallen  to  my  lot  ;  and  the  fact  of  my  being  alive 
to  write  this  article  is,  I  consider,  due  to  the 
care  and  attention  I  received  before  medical  aid 
arrived  from  a  man  who  was  a  stranger  to  me — 
Mr.  E.  L.  Pearson. 

Baringo  is  noted  amongst  those  who  are 
interested  in  big-game  shooting  as  one  of  the 
very  few  places  in  British  East  Africa — if  not 
the  only  place — where  it  is  possible  to  find  the 
greater  koodoo  and  the  oryx  beisa  ;  and  it  was 
with  the  intention  of  shooting  two  of  each  of 
these  animals  to  add  to  my  collection  that  I 
made  a  journey  to  Baringo  in  October,  1902. 

On  the  3rd  of  October  I  left  Nairobi  for 
Londiani,  a  station  on  the  railway  five  hundred 
miles  up  country  and  about  eighty  miles  from 
Baringo. 

Lhe  first  day's  march  from   Londiani  was  a 


42C 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


small  one,  only  about  ten  miles,  and  I  pitched 
camp  at  five  o'clock.  The  following  day  I  was 
on  the  way  before  six  o'clock,  and  reached  the 
Eldoma  Ravine  Government  Station  about 
eleven.  The  road  so  far  had  been  a  very  good 
one,  but  onwards  to  Baringo  there  was  only  a 
path  sometimes  a  foot,  sometimes  eighteen 
inches,  wide.  Where  the  soil  was  hard  and  dry 
it  almost  disappeared  altogether. 

On  Monday,  October  6th,  I  left  the  Ravine 
rather  late.  The  road  generally  was  bad— rocky 
and  stony  in  some  places,  sandy  wastes  covered 
with  dry  scrub  in  others.  There  was  practically 
no  game  all  the  way.  This  was  a  very  great 
disappointment,  as  I  had  looked  forward  to 
some  shooting  on  the  journey  out. 

I  pitched  camp  on  the  Wednesday  night  at 
Njemps  Mkubwa,  a  large  Masai  village,  where  I 
met  an  old  acquaintance  in  a  Msuahili  trader, 
who  made  me  presents  of  milk  and  honey — 
both  very  dirty — and   insisted    upon    his    own 


nearly  three  feet  of  water  while  he  was  carrying 
me  across  a  stream. 

I  pitched  my  camp  at  the  edge  of  the  lake, 
put  a  good  hedge  of  thorns  round  it,  in  order  to 
keep  out  any  midnight  intruders,  and  after  a 
stroll  of  four  hours  in  the  afternoon  had  dinner 
and  went  to  bed — unfortunately  without  a 
mosquito  net. 

The  night  was  rather  an  exciting  one.  The 
mosquitoes  and  jackals  between  them  prevented 
any  sleep  for  hours  ;  and  just  as  1 7i'as  dropping 
off  I  was  roused  by  cries  of"  Simba,  simba!" 
("  Lion,  lion  !  "),  and  some  Wasuahili,  who  lived 
in  a  grass  hut  forty  yards  from  my  camp,  came 
tearing  across  to  my  camp  as  if  they  were  trying 
to  lower  the  world's  record  for  the  distance.  I 
asked  in  a  sleepy  manner  what  was  the  matter. 
"  A  lion  in  the  hut,"  they  said.  "  Well,"  I 
replied,  "give  it  my  salaams  and  tell  it  to  stop 
there."  Then  I  tried  to  sleep  again,  but  with  very 
indifferent  success.      In  the  morning  I  was  told 


lAN^o^J  Woc'!> 


AS   I   HAD   A    FAIR    SHOT    I    PIUF.D." 


servants  pitching  my  tent.  I  made  arrange- 
ments for  two  men  to  explore  the  country  where 
the  koodoo  were  to  be  found,  and  felt  that  I 
was  at  last  nearing  the  oijject  of  my  cjucst. 

<^>n  the  Thursday  morning  I  left  Njemps  at 
a  quarter  to  six  and  reached  the  boma  (fort) 
at  I'aringo  at  eight  o'clock,  the  only  incident 
on  the  way  being  that  a  boy  dropped  me  into 


that  a  man  had  been  wounded 
by  the  lion,  so  I  went  over  in  my 
pyjamas  and  slippers,  and  found 
that  a  lion  had  actually  gone  into 
the  hut  where  four  men  were 
sleeping  round  a  fire  and  tried  to  pull  one  of 
them  out,  inflicting  two  gaslies  in  the  back  of 
the  man's  neck,  one  on  the  left  shoulder,  and 
one  in  the  back  about  six  inches  down.  I  sent 
for  some  water,  permanganate  of  potash,  lint, 
etc.,  and  commenced  to  wash  him,  when 
someone  cried  out  that  the  lion  was  still 
waiting  a  little  distance  off  I  picked  up  the 
■303  Lee-Metford,  told  my  boy  to  bring 
the  -577  Express,  and  went  after  the  beast", 
which  was  three  to  four  hundred  yards  distant. 
Up    to    a    distance    of    two     hundred     yards 


A    BATTLE    WITH     A     RHINO. 


421 


it  stood  and  growled,  and  then  turned  and 
walked  slowly  away.  When  I  got  within  one 
hundred  and  fifty  yards  it  again  stood  and 
growled,  and  then  wheeled  round  to  go  into  the 
bush.  As  I  had  a  fair  shot  I  fired,  and  hit  it 
just  above  the  tail.  It  dropped  dead  where  it 
stood.  The  bullet  was  found  in  skinning  lying 
against  the  left  cheek,  having  traversed  the 
whole  body.  I  then  went  back  and  finished 
dressing  the  man's  wounds.  By  seven  o'clock 
the  lion  was  nearly  skinned,  the  injured  man 
was  fairly  comfortable,  and  1  had  exchanged  my 
sleeping  garments  for  the  ordinary  daily  attire  of 
khaki.  The  man,  by  the  way,  had  been  attacked 
by  a  lion  and  badly  injured  on  a  previous 
occasion,  rather  a  curious 
coincidence. 

During  the  next  few- 
days  I  had  varying  luck, 
as  game  was  very  shy. 

On  Saturday,  the  18th, 
however,  I  did  a  big  day's 
walk — over  twelve  hours — 
and  bagged  a  couple  of 
gazelle,  a  wild  cat,  a  wart- 
hog,  and  some  lesser  bus- 
tard. I  also  saw  fresh 
tracks  of  rhino,  giraffe, 
eland,  lion,  and  leopard, 
and  tracks,  several  days 
old,  of  the  greater  koodoo. 
This  was  the  last  day  of 
the  old  regime,  but,  not 
knowing  it,  I  went  to  sleep 
in  blissful  ignorance  of  my 
impending  fate. 

On  October  19th  I  was 
out  at  a  quarter  to  six, 
and  made  straight  for  a 
big  hill  some  nine  or  ten 
miles  away,  where  I  had 
seen  koodoo  tracks  on  the 

preceding  day.  I  found  signs  of  their  having 
been  there  within  the  past  few  hours.  I  worked 
round  the  hill  for  some  time,  and  then  decided 
that  if  I  could  find  water  I  would  camp  on  the 
spot  for  a  night  or  two,  so  as  to  be  ready  in 
the  early  morning  and  late  evening. 

I  had  wandered  some  distance  up  the  valley, 
shooting  a  steinbock  on  the  way,  when  I  saw- 
two  rhino.  Now,  I  particularly  wanted  tw-o 
rhino,  and  therefore  hailed  their  appearance 
with  pleasure.  They  were  about  a  mile  away 
and  the  country  was  fairly  open,  so  that  before  I 
could  get  within  range  they  had  disappeared  in 
some  dry  scrub.  I  saw  what  I  thought  was  a 
low  hillock  just  inside  the  scrub,  and  I  intended 
using  it  for  stalking  purposes,  but  my  gun- 
bearer,  Sulimani,  objected  to  this  most  strongly. 


THK    AUTHOR,    MR. 

From  a  Plioto.  hy  L.  R 


He  said  it  was  not  a  hillock,  but  rhinoceroses. 
So  we  crouched  down  behind  a  wretched  little 
bush  and  w-aited,  but  not  for  long.  We  were 
hardly  down  before  my  '•  hillock  "  opened  and  I 
saw  that  there  were  seven  rhinoceroses  in  a 
cluster.  Tw-o  came  charging  in  my  direction, 
and  at  forty  yards  I  fired  at  one  so  as  to  put  a 
solid  -303  in  the  centre  of  its  chest  (I  had  the 
•577  ready  in  case  of  emergency),  but  it  put  its 
head  down  and  received  the  bullet  in  its 
head  instead.  Then  it  performed  such  a 
wonderful  variety  of  antics  that  I  could  not 
resist  sitting  down  and  laughing.  It  spun 
round  and  round,  shaking  its  head  in  every 
direction  ;  it  tried  to  stand  up,  it  half  sat  down, 

and  then  it  galloped  off. 
I  came  up  with  it  three  to 
four  hundred  yards  farther 
on  and  dropped  it.  I  dis- 
covered that  the  first  bullet 
had  struck  it  between  the 
eye  and  the  horn.  I  after- 
wards found  that  it  had 
splintered  the  nose,  and  I 
now  have  the  huge  splinter 
of  bone,  eighteen  inches 
long  and  six  inches  wide, 
with  the  horns  mounted 
on  it. 

After  showing  Sulimani 
how  I  wanted  the  beast 
skinned,  I  went  in  a  north- 
westerly direction  after  an 
oryx  that  I  could  see  con- 
siderably more  than  a  mile 
away,  taking  one  porter 
with  me  to  carry  my  gun, 
but  I  could  not  get  any- 
where near  it.  I  followed 
it  for  nearly  five  miles, 
-  passing  on  the  w-ay  a 
giraffe,  which  stood  and 
stared  at  me  until  I  was  not  more  than  seventy 
yards  off.  Tlien  it  turned  and  galloped  away 
with  its  curious  sidelong  gait.  I  also  saw  a 
rhino,  which  I  marked  down  as  my  own  in  case 
I  lost  the  oryx. 

On  the  way  back  I  passed  an  immense  herd 
of  eland,  fully  a  hundred  in  number,  and  then 
came  to  the  rhino.  He  was  about  one  hundred 
and  twenty  yards  aw-ay  with  his  back  towards 
me,  so  I  .sat  dow-n  in  the  grass,  which  w-as  about 
eigliteen  inches  high,  and  waited.  After  ten 
minutes  the  beast  turned  round  and  walked 
slowly  up  towards  me,  grazing  all  the  way.  It 
occurred  to  me  that  if  I  shot  it  I  should  have 
all  my  work  cut  out  to  reach  camp  before  dark, 
as  it  was  then  one  o'clock  and  the  camp  was 
nearly  fifteen  miles  away.     While  waiting,  the 


B.    EASTWOOD. 

.  Prothcroc,  Bristol. 


422 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


man  I  had  with  me  became  frightened,  and 
after  creeping  through  the  grass  for  some 
distance  rose  to  his  feet  and  ran  away.  This 
evidently  roused  the  rhino,  for  it  lifted  up 
its  head  and  looked  after  the  man,  giving  me 
the  chance  that  I  wanted,  and  I  put  a  solid 
bullet  in  the  centre  of  its  chest,  about  twelve 
inches  up.  The  wounded  animal  took  two  or 
three  short,  quick  steps,  and  then  went  down 
heavily,  head  first,  its  body  sluing  round  a 
little  as  it  fell.  It  made  a  futile  attempt  to  rise, 
but  did  not  succeed  in  even  lifting  its  head,  and 
then  lay  motionless. 

I  put  in  a  second  shot  to  make  sure,  but 
might  just  as  well  have  fired  at  a  rock,  as  it  did 
not  move  in  any  way.  It  seemed  as  if  there 
were  not  the  slightest  breath  of  life  left  in  it ;  so 
I  walked  up  to  it,  wondering  what  its  horns 
measured  and  how  I  could  possibly  manage  to 
have  it  skinned  and  still  reach  the  camp  before 
dark. 

All  these  conjectures  were  rudely  knocked  on 
the  head.  I  was  not  twenty  yards  away  when 
the  huge  beast  suddenly  gave  a  roll  and  got 
partly  on  to  its  feet.  My  rifle  was  up  at  once 
and  I  put  a  shot  in  its  shoulder,  but  before  I 
could  get  another  shot  in  it  was  on  its  feet  and 
charging  straight  at  me.  I  decided  then  that  I 
was  wanted  somewhere  else,  and  commenced  to 
run  at  right  angles  to  the  way  the  rhino  was 
going,  thinking  it  would  probably  go  on  in  a 
straight  line,  as  they  usually  do.  Unfortunately, 
however,  the  very  first  step  I  took  I  slipped  and 
fell,  and  before  I  could  regain  my  feet  the  great 
brute  was  on  top  of  me.  Curiously  enough,  the 
fact  that  struck  me  most  was  not  that  I  was 
gomg  to  be  smashed  up,  but  how  like  a  gigantic 
wart-hog  the  rhino  looked. 

I  was  nearly  on  my  feet  again  when  it  struck 
me.  It  hit  me  first  with  its  nose,  fell  with  both 
knees  on  me,  and  then,  drawing  back  a  little 
for  the  blow,  threw  me  clean  over  its  back,  the 
horn  entering  the  hack  of  my  left  thigh  ;  and  I 
saw  the  animal  well  underneath  me  as  I  went 
flying  through  the  air.  It  threw  me  a  second 
time,  but  I  cannot  recollect  that  throw  clearly — 
I  think  it  nm.st  have  been  a  foul— and  then 
came  on  a  third  time.  I  was  lying  on  my  right 
side  when  the  great  black  snout  was  pushed 
against  nie,  and  I  shoved  it  away  with  my  left 
hand  for  all  that  I  was  worth,  just  the  .same  as 
•  !iands  a  man  off  at  football.  Then  I  found 
I  upon  my  feet  how,  I  don't  know  and 
'Ted  off.  As  I  went  an  inky  blackness 
I  .line  upon  me. 

I  had  gone  about  forty  yards  when  1  found 
that  my  right  arm  was  very  painful  and  I  was 
<:ompelled  to  drop  my  rifle,  which  I  had  kept 
up  till  then.      I   went   on   another   forty  or  fifty 


yards,  expecting  every  moment  to  be  charged 
again,  and  then  I  felt  that  I  might  as  well  lie 
down  and  let  the  rhino  finish  its  work  without 
any  more  trouble  ;  so  I  dropped  to  the  ground. 

After  a  little  time  the  light  commenced  to 
come  in  patches,  and  at  last  I  could  see  quite 
clearly  again.  My  first  thought  was — I  shall 
get  sunstroke  (an  equatorial  sun  at  one  o'clock 
/s  rather  hot),  so  I  put  my  handkerchief  over 
my  head.  Then  the  question  occurred  to  me — 
Shall  I  be  picked  up  or  not  ?  I  was  feeling 
very  sorry  for  m.yself.  Blood  was  flowing  from 
the  wound  in  my  leg  and  I  was  lying  in  a 
puddle  of  it ;  my  left  side  was  so  painful  that  I 
did  not  care  about  moving ;  my  right  arm, 
which  I  had  drawn  across  my  chest  and  was 
nursing  with  the  left  hand,  was  S[)lit  open  right 
across  the  wrist,  and  two  broken  bones  were 
Sticking  out  nearly  two  inches;  and  I  was 
generally  badly  shaken  up. 

I  speculated  as  to  my  men  finding  me.  If  the 
man  had  gone  back  to  the  first  rhino,  help  might 
arrive  in  one  and  a  half  to  two  hours  ;  if  he  had 
gone  to  the  camp,  then  it  was  good-bye  to  life ; 
and  I  tried  to  possess  my  soul  in  patience.  I 
had  one  overwhelming  desire — to  see  my  home 
and  children  again.  I  could  see  a  swarm  of 
vultures  overhead,  and  one  hawk  sailed  lazily 
over  me,  so  close  that  I  could  hear  the  heavy 
dop-dop  of  its  wings.  Once  I  tried  to  stand  and 
walk  towards  the  camp,  but  it  was  a  failure,  so  I 
lay  down  again  and,  with  an  ev'er-increasing 
thirst,  waited. 

The  desire  to  see  my  home  just  to  say  "  good- 
bye "  was  almost  maddening.  If  I  could  only 
see  them  once  it  would  not  matter.  If  I  had  to 
die — well,  I  had  to  die,  and  nothing  that  I  could 
do  would  alter  it ;  but  I  wanted  to  see  them 
all  again  before  I  went.  It  is  wonderful  how 
children's  little  fingers  entangle  a  man's  heart- 
strings, and  ])utl  with  so  irresistible  a  force  that 
all  other  feelings,  however  strong  they  may  be, 
are  practically  unheeded.  Would  Sulimani  never 
come?  Surely  I  had  been  lying  there  many, 
many  hours?  The  porter,  I  decided,  must 
have  gone  to  the  camp  ;  but  then  I  looked 
at  the  sun  and  saw  that  the  time  was  but 
short,  and  I  tried  to  be  more  patient.  I 
had  lost  a  tooth  and  n)y  face  was  badly  grazed 
on  the  left  side,  and  the  blood  had  caked  round 
the  corner  of  my  mouth,  causing  the  feeling  of 
thirst  to  be  almost  intolerable.  I  would  have 
given  anything  for  a  drink  of  water.  But  over 
all  other  feelings  there  was  one  dominant  wish  : 
only  let  me  say  "good-bye"  before  I  go.  I 
think  that  while  I  lay  there  helpless  I  went 
through  the  Valley  of  the  Shadow,  for  from  that 
time  all  bitterness  pas.sed.  And  as  I  waited, 
waited,  waited,  at  last  I  heard  voice-s,  and  with 


A     r.Al'lI.i:     WITH     A    RHINO. 


423 


a  jrreat  effort  shouted  ami  hrounlit  Suliniaiii  and 
a  {)orter  to  where  I  lay. 

My  first  want  was  water  and  then  to  know 
the  time.  I  drank  two  bf)ttles  full  of  water 
and  was  told  that  it  was  half- [)ast  three; 
so  that  I  had  been  lying  there  a  good  two 
hours.       The    ne.xt    thing    was     to     slop     the 


bleeding    of  my  leg  ;    but  they  had 


no    struig 


and  no  stiek  to  form  a  tournifjuet.  \\'hat  was 
to  be  done  ?  Could  they  find  my  rifle  ?  Yes  ! 
This  was  brought  to  me,  and  the  pull-through 
and  my  skinning-knife  did  all  that  was  required. 
The  latter  had  the  point  fixed  towards  the  knee, 


Taken  altogether,  the  journey  was  very  far  from 
being  a  pleasant  one. 

The  first  thing  I  did  was  to  arrange  for  help. 
I  was  under  the  impression  (erroneous,  however) 
that  signals  could  be  exchanged  at  night  between 
the  stations  at  Baringo  and  the  Ravine,  and 
I  knew  that  the  nearest  doctor  was  at  Fort 
'I'ernan,  thirty-six  miles  by  rail  and  fully  another 
one  hundred  miles  more  by  road  from  where  I 
then  was.  I  looked  at  my  right  hand  and  said 
"good-bye"  to  it.  Then  I  wrote  the  following 
note  to  Pearson  at  the  boma,  Sulimani  holding 
mv  diary  for  me  to  write  in   with  my  left  hand 


'awjj/j 


I    WROTE   TO    I'EARSON,    SULIMANI    HOLDING    MV    DIARY    FOR    MF.   TO    WRIIK    IN    WH  H    MY    LEFT    HAND. 


SO  that  it  was  quite  safe.  My  gun-bearer,  by 
the  way,  had  the  greatest  possible  objection 
to  my  trousers  being  cut  open  ;  1  suppose  he 
looked  upon  it  as  damaging  his  future  property. 
I  had  sent  one  of  the  porters  back  to  the  cam[) 
for  men  when  the  first  rhino  was  killed  :  and 
Sulimani,  with  a  grasp  of  the  situation  that  was 
maryellous  in  him,  had  sent  another  man  to 
hurry  them  on,  and,  as  he  had  been  searching 
round  about  for  nearly  an  hour  before  I  heard 
liim,  I  knew  that  they  ought  to  turn  up  before 
long.  At  half-past  four  they  came,  a  hammock 
was  made  with  two  blankets  knc^tted  together 
and  slung  on  a  pole,  and  the  homeward  journey 
was  commenced.  Part  of  it  was  in  the  dark  - 
from  seven  o'clock  to  nearly  ten — and  then  the 
moon  came  up.  We  heard  a  lion  once,  and  it 
was  half-past  eleven  before  my  tent  was  reached. 


as  I  lay  on  my  back  :  "  Gored  by  rhino.  Lose 
R/H.  Signal  Isaacs  at  Ravine  to  arrange  for 
doctor  from  P^ort  Ternan. — B.  E." 

I  told  them  to  send  this  at  once  by  a  runner 
— it  was  a  beautiful  moonlight  night— and  did 
not  find  out  until  afterwards  that  the  messenger 
had  not  left  until  fiva  the  following  morning. 
Then  I  had  my  clothes  cut  off— poor  Sulimani ! 
more  property  damaged-  washed  the  wounds 
as  well  as  I  could  with  clean  water,  had  a  tin 
of  Brand's  essence,  and,  figuratively  speaking, 
retired  for  the  night. 

The  first  thing  on  Monday  morning  I  sent  a 
man  off  to  the  camp  at  the  lake  to  bring  my 
boy  and  cook,  and  the  box  with  my  clothes  and 
medicines  in  it.  I  lay  and  waited  for  a  reply 
from  Pearson,  filling  in  the  time  by  making  a 
litter,    the  groundwork  of  which    I    had   taken 


424 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MACIAZINE. 


with  me  in  case  anyone  was  hurt,  little  thinking 
that  1  should  be  the  first  to  use  it.  The  flies 
were  innumerable,  and  I  had  to  have  a  man 
continually  beating  them  off;  the  teni  was 
black  with  them.  About  four  o'clock  the  men 
came  from  the  lake,  and  as  the  messenger 
had  not  left  until  nearly  six  it  meant  that 
he  had  done  about  forty  miles  in  ten  hours. 
Shortly  after  their  arrival  an  answer  came  from 
Pearson  in  the  form  of  a  litter  carried  by  six 
Nubians  and  an  invitation  to  go  at  once  to  the 
boma. 

After  a  little  consideration  I  determined  to 
set  off  at  once.  It  was  moonlight,  I  should  be 
able  to  travel  in  the  cool  of  the  night  and  not 
have  to  endure  the  fierce  heat  of  the  sun,  and 
I  should  see  a  white  man  and  have  some 
medical  aid  twelve  hours  earlier  than  if  I 
stopped  until  the  following  morning.  My 
porters,  however,  raised  a  very  decided  objection 
to  this  course.  I'hey  were  very  tired — ten  of 
them  had  done  nothing  all  day  but  eat  meat — 
they  were  hungry,  they  did  not  know  the  road, 
it  was  night-lime,  and  they  were  frightened  of  the 
rhinos  and  lions.  I  had  one  answer  only — 
"  Haithiirii,  nitdk'ive/ida"  ("  It  does  not  matter,  I 
will  go");  but  it  was  not  until  the  cook  had 
helped  me  to  my  feet  to  walk  it  that  they  were 
shamed  into  bringing  in  the  litter. 

We  started  at  five  o'clock  (they  carried  me 
out  feet  first)  and  marched  until  seven,  when 
we  lost  the  way  in  the  dark  and  lighted  fires, 
then  sat  down  until  the  moon  came  up,  about 
ten  o'clock.  After  that  we  marched  until  six 
o'clock  the  next  morning  and  reached  the  boma 
just  as  the  sun  was  rising.  The  journey  had 
been  agonizing,  and  I  was  almost  in  a  state  of 
cf.llapse.  .Six  men  had  carried  the  litter,  two  at 
c.i'  \\  end  and  une  on  each  side  at  the  middle.  The 
road  was  very  rough,  up  and  down  hill,  stony 
and  rocky.  I  had  a  smashed  arm  on  one  side, 
four  ribs  broken  on  the  other ;  and  the  men  on 
either  side  of  me,  owing  to  the  unavoidable 
jolting,  were  continually  striking  and  jarring  the 
damaged  parts  ;  and  by  the  time  we  reached 
the  boma  I  had  had  cjuite  enough  of  it.  I  am 
not  a  glutton.  Once  I  groaned  at  a  heavier  blow 
than  usual,  and  was  told  :  "  Ainri  va  Af/n/fii^m 
Mca/ia"  ("It  is  the  will  of  Cod,  master"), 
which,  however  true,  did  not  ease  the  pain 
very  nuich.  As  I  said  before,  it  was  six 
o'clock  when  I  arrived— forty-one  hours  after 
the  accident.  I'earson  was  up  and  partly 
dressed  ;  he  had  not  expected  me  until  evening, 
but  at  once,  much  against  my  wish,  turned  out 
of  his  hou.se— a  Nubian  grass  hut— so  that  I 
might  occupy  it  and  stand  less  chance  of  fever. 
Then  I  was  washed,  my  wounds  were  dressed, 
and  I  settled  down  for  the  day.     I  learned  that 


a  runner  had  been  sent  to  the  Ravine  the 
previous  day  and  that  an  answer  might  be 
expected  on  the  morrow.  We  discussed  the 
advisability  or  otherwise  of  my  going  on  to 
meet  the  doctor.  Finally  we  decided  to  wait, 
and  I  think  wisely,  as  I  am  sure  I  could  not 
have  stood  the  journey.  After  that  we  talked 
over  all  kinds  of  subjects,  and  I  began  to  feel 
quite  chirpy. 

The  following  day,  Wednesday,  the  2 and, 
a  certain  grim  philosophy  came  to  my  aid.  I 
was  an  absolute  wreck,  nobody  had  a  hand  in 
the  show  except  myself,  and  the  only  thing  to  do 
was  to  take  it  smiling  ;  so  I  commenced  to  write 
a  humorous  rhyming  account  of  the  trip,,  but  I 
could  not  manage  more  than  one  verse.  I  had 
got  so  bad  by  this  time  that  I  could  not  lift  up 
my  head,  and  had  to  be  fed  as  I  lay.  I  was 
greatly  amused  by  hearing  that  a  party  of  Wasuk 
warriors  had  come  in  and  offered  their  services. 
They  said  that  they  thoroughly  understood  the 
treatment  of  broken  bones.  Pearson  very 
diplomatically  told  them  that  one  of  our  own 
doctors  had  been  sent  for,  so  that  he  could  not 
accept  their  services  then,  but  if  our  doctor 
could  not  cure  me  he  would  ask  them  to  come 
again.  We  looked  out  for  an  answer  that  day 
from  the  Ravine,  but  did  not  receive  one. 

On  Thursday,  the  23rd,  the  expected  letter 
arrived,  and  said  that  Dr.  Falkener  would  be  at 
the  Ravine  that  day.  This  led  to  a  lot  of  specu- 
lation as  to  what  time  in  the  day  he  would  be 
there,  and  if  he  would  leave  the  same  day  or 
wait  until  the  morning  of  the  24th.  Things  did 
not  look  quite  so  rosy,  as  my  arm  was  getting 
worse.  I  did  not  like  the  look  of  things,  so  I 
settled  up  my  earthly  affairs  as  far  as  possible ; 
made  a  will — Pearson,  by  the  way,  charged 
me  fifteen  rupees  for  registering  it — and  waited 
on.  That  night  Pearson  sat  up  with  me,  as  I 
had  a  temperature  of  io2deg. 

Friday,  the  24th,  opened  with  conjectures  as 
to  when  the  doctor  would  come.  Pearson  was 
obviously  getting  decidedly  anxious.  All  the 
time  that  he  could  spare  from  his  duties  he 
spent  with  me.  He  used  to  sit  down  and  talk, 
then  stop  abruptly,  walk  to  the  one  opening 
in  the  hut  wliich  served  for  doors  and  windows, 
and  gaze  towards  the  pass  in  the  hills 
about  three  miles  distant,  where  the  path  ran. 
But  there  was  no  doctor  and  no  news  of  him 
that  day.  That  niglit  Pearson  again  sat  up 
with  me. 

Saturday,  the  25th,  went  very  slowly.  We 
thought  that  the  doctor  w//.sV  come  that  day, 
and  knew  that  if  he  did  not  arrive  soon  he 
would  l)e  too  late.  I  still  had  a  certain  amount 
of  hope,  and,  although  I  had  my  farewell  letter 
for  linnie  all  ready  in  my  mind,  I  refrained  from 


A    BATTLE    WITH    A     RHINO. 


writing  it  until  I  was  sure  the  proper  time  had 
arrived.  And  so  another  day  dragged  wearily 
on,  Pearson  continually  standing  at  the  door 
and  looking  out  over  the  distant  road.  •  He  sat 
up  again  with  me  that  night. 

On  the  morning  of  the  26th  a  letter  came 
from  the  doctor 
saying  he  would  be 
at  the  boma  in 
the  forenoon,  but 
he  had  underesti- 
mated the  distance, 
and  it  was  half-past 
one  before  he 
a  r  r  i  \-  e  d  .  The 
thought  of  his  com- 
ing raised  our  spirits 
very  considerably. 

He  was  several 
hours  in  advance 
of  his  porters,  who 
had  his  instruments, 
drugs,  etc.,  so  that 
he  could  do  nothing 
until  they  came, 
and  it  was  nearly 
six  o'clock  before 
he  commenced 
operations.  He 
felt  my  ribs  and 
said  that  there  were 
three  or  four 
broken,  and  I  at 
once  began  to  feel 
that  I  was  really  ill, 
for  up  to  that  time 
I  thought  they  were 
only  sprained.  The 
hole  in  the  leg  was 
pronounced  to  be 
superficial  :  I  was 
very  glad  to  hear  it, 
for  I  had  thought 
very  differently  in- 
deed about  it. 
However,  that 
balanced  the  ribs, 
so  that  I  was  in  the 
same  state  as  before. 
Then  came  the  arm, 
and  the  doctor's 
face   lengthened  as 

he  looked  at  it.  "  I  am  very  sorry,"  he  said  at 
last.  "  It  has  to  go  ?"  I  asked,  and  he  replied, 
"Yes." 

When  I  recovered  consciousness  after  the 
operation  the  doctor  asked  me  how  I  felt. 
"  All  right,"  I  said. 

"  Have  you  a  headache?  " 

Vol.  xi.-54- 


THE    RAIN    CAME    DOWN    I.N    A    DHI.L'GE. 


"  No." 

While  we  were  talking  I  put  out  my  left 
hand  quite  mechanically  to  adjust  the  bad  arm, 
which  was  aching  rather  more  than  usual. 
There  was  no  arm  there  !  Then  I  had  an 
injection  of  mor[:)hia  and  slept  [)eacefully  until 

the  next  morning, 
when  my  ribs  were 
strapped,  and  I  had 
to  settle  down  for 
a  weary  wait  of  four 
weeks. 

I  had,  previous 
to  the  arrival  of  the 
doctor,  prepared  a 
litter,  thinking  that 
I  might  perhaps  be 
moved  at  once. 
This,  however,  was 
not  to  be.  The 
litter  was  made  of 
the  canvas  of  a 
camp  bed  with  two 
long  poles  run 
through  where  the 
sides  of  the  bed 
would  be  in  the 
ordinary  course. 
Two  short  poles 
acted  as  stretchers, 
and  a  covering  was 
formed  by  sticks 
bent  from  side  to 
side  in  a  hoop, 
covered  with  a 
bright  -  coloured 
cloth  inside  and  a 
blanket  outside.  It 
turned  out  a  great 
success,  when  the 
time  came  for  it  to 
be  used. 

We  had  a  long 
discussion  as  to 
how  my  arm  was 
injured,  and  finally 
came  to  the  conclu^ 
sion  that  it  was 
done  in  falling  after 
one  of  the  throws. 
Falling  head  first  I 
instinctively  threw 
out  my  arms.  The  right  arm,  holding  the  rifle, 
must  have  been  quite  rigid.  The  rifle  would, 
of  course,  lie  on  the  surface  of  the  ground,  thus 
forming  a  rest  for  the  hand,  and  the  weight  of 
my  body  must  have  driven  the  forearm  through 
the  joint  at  the  wrist. 

The    four   weeks   seemed   as    if  they    would 


426 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


nc^ci  >...._,.  liie  days  were  not  bad,  as  I  could 
look  out  of  the  doorway  of  the  hut,  the  only 
opening,  and  watch  the  clouds  go  by,  but  the 
nigiits  were  fearful.  I  had  two  long  sleepless 
stretches,  one  of  six  and  one  of  five  nights,  and 
soporifics  had  no  effect.  A  sentry  was  on  guard 
outside,  and  after  waiting  until  it  seemed  as  if 
dawn  must  be  on  the  point  of  breaking  I  called 
him  and  asked  the  time.  "  Half-past  eleven," 
came  the  answer.  Then  I  waited  apparently 
another  five  or  six  hours  and  asked  again. 
"'I'welve  o'clock."  And  so  night  after  night 
dragged  on  ;  nights  that  seem  to  me  even  now 
to  be  like  some  horrible  nightmare. 


the  rain  came  down  in  such  a  deluge  that  I 
thought  my  litter  would  have  been  washed 
away.  In  a  few  minutes  the  cover  of  the  litter 
was  soaked,  the  mattress  was  saturated,  and  I 
was  lying  in  a  stream  of  water  that  was  rushing 
down  the  plain.  The  storm  lasted  for  about 
half  an  hour,  and  when  it  was  over  we  decided  to 
camp  for  the  night  on  a  little  patch  of  ground 
two  to  three  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  flooded 
plain.  The  first  thing  to  do  was  to  get  dry  and 
to  dry  my  bedding  ;  but  this  was  no  easy  task, 
although  we  expected  the  donkeys  to  arrive 
every  moment,  and  were  looking  forward  to  a 
change  of  clothing  and  some  food.     We  waited 


»IK.    I'.ASIWCMJU   IN    ma   litter   on    the   WAV    10     ]IU.    L'lAM- 


I111-,    run  Mil, li. 11-11    UAri    lAkh.s     hV    THE    DOCTOK. 


After  about  a  fortnight  Pearson  had  to  leave 
on  a  tour  round  his  distrit  t.  I  tried  to  thank 
him  once  for  what  he  had  done.  It  was  very 
difTiirult  to  find  words  ;  but  his  sole  reply  was, 
"  It  was  (jnly  my  duty." 

Cin  1'"  ^  Mul  of  November  we  the  doctor 
and  Ml  ,et  out  on  our  homeward  journey. 

All  my  caravan,  with  the  e.vception  of  my  boy, 
had  been  sent  back  on  llie  28th  of  October,  so 
ihat  arrangements  had  to  be  made  for  transport. 
The  doctor  had  about  a  dozen  men,  and  as  it 
wa.s  P'  for  me  to  have  men  to  carry  my 

litter   1      iiiged   two  donkeys  for  four  men, 

and  got  anothiT  t«n  donki-ys  for  my  loads,  tent.s, 
provision-s,  et' 

1  he  road  ai   m^i  w.ii  inuuiitauiuu^,  antl  1  was 

terribly  afraid  of  being  thrown  out  of  the  litter 

-a  feeling,  by  the  way,  which   1   never  wholly 

from.     Wc  set  out  at  ten  c/clock,  and 

I  of  nearly  an  hour  at  midday  marehed 

until  four,  when  we  halted,  owing  to  a  very  heavy 

storm.     I  was  put  under  a  tree  for  shelter,  but 


until  nearly  dark  for  them  and  then  sent  a  man 
to  meet  them,  but  he  returned  alone.  We  fired 
our  rifles  as  a  signal,  but  all  to  no  avail,  and  we 
finally  made  up  our  minds  to  the  inevitable. 
There  was  a  small  tent  belonging  to  the 
porters,  which  we  appropriated  ;  there  was 
dinner  in  the  form  of  tinned  corned  beef 
(by  itself)  and  champagne ;  there  was  sleeping 
accommodation  in  the  doctor's  bed  (he  had  the 
mattress,  I  had  the  bed)  and  finally  there  were 
mosquitoes.  They  sailed  in  at  eight  o'clock, 
when  we  went  to  bed,  and  never  left  us  until  we 
got  up  the  next  morning.  Altogether  it  was  a 
most  wretched  time,  although,  looking  back  at 
il,  it  had  also  a  humorous  side.  The  missing 
donkeys  turned  up  at  about  eight  the  following 
morning,  and,  as  we  were  ready,  we  at  once  set 
off  on  another  day's  march. 

Nothing  very  exciting  happened,  with  the 
exception  that  the  porters  tried  to  find  a  road 
through  a  swamp  full  of  hippopotami,  a  course 
to   which   I    had    the  most  decided   objection. 


A     15ATTL1-:    WITH     A     KHINO. 


427 


The  grass  and  papyrus  were  at  least  twelve  feet 
high,  there  were  hippos  bellowing  all  over  the 
place,  and  I  could  not  quite  see  the  force  of 
escaping  from  a  rhinoceros  only  to  be  charged 
and  finally  finished  off  by  a  hippopotamus. 
Pachyderms,  so  far  as  I  was  concerned,  were 
at  a  discount.  They  are  too  thick-skinned  and 
devoid  of  all  sense  of  fair  play  for  my  liking. 
\N'e  finally  escaped  the  swam|)  by  climbing  up 
the  side  of  a  hill  and  walking  about  six  hun- 
dred yards — my  fust  walk  beyond  a  few  steps — 
and  I  found  it  very  hard  work.  We  stopped 
that  night  close  to  a  camp  of  Somali  traders, 
who  very  kindly  sent  me  nearly  a  gallon  of  fresh 
milk.  The  following  morning  they  also  brought 
a  lot  more  milk,  which  was  boiled  and  taken  on 
for  future  consumption.  We  marched  the  third 
day  atiout  twenty  miles,  and  I  was  very  glad 
when  the  march  was  over,  as  the  jolting  was 
getting  most  decidedly  monotonous  and  objec- 
tionable. 

Our  camp  that  night  was  pitched  practically 
on  the  Equator.  On  the  morning  of  the  fourth 
day  the  doctor  and  myself  parted  company,  and 
just  before  leaving  he  photographed  me  in  my 


litter.  The  porters  wanted  to  stop  for  the  day 
after  two  hours'  marching,  but  I  would  not  hear 
of  it,  and  we  did  eight  hours  before  we  finished. 
I  walked  a  little  that  day  in  order  to  take  the 
stiffness  out  of  my  muscles,  and  felt  very  proud 
of  myself,  as  I  was  able  to  stand  up  without 
being  assisted  to  my  feet.  I  camped  that  night 
only  one  day's  march  —  eighteen  miles— out  of 
Nakuro,  and  feasted  my  men  on  a  tin  of  Army 
rations  and  preserved  fruit  each. 

On  the  fifth  day  I  was  on  the  march  at  five. 
Every  time  the  porters  put  the  litter  down  for  a 
rest  1  walked  on,  and  when  I  saw  the  railway  in 
the  distance  I  abandoned  the  litter  altogether 
and  walked  the  last  five  or  six  miles,  reaching 
the  station  at  half-past  twelve.  There  was  no 
train  that  day,  but  one  left  early  the  following 
morning,  and  I  was  back  at  Nairobi  about  three 
o'clock  on  November  27th,  practically  fit  again 
— with  the  few  trifiing  exceptions  of  a  leg  that 
would  [)ersist  in  a  limp,  a  half-side  of  ribs  that 
was  rather  sore,  and  a  continuous  pain  in  a 
hand  that  I  had  not  got.  None  of  these,  how- 
ever, really  counted  when  the  fact  that  I  was 
home  again  was  taken  into  consideration. 


/■'rout  a\ 


SO.ME   OF    THE   AUTHORS   AFRICAN    HUNTING   TROPHIES. 


{Photo. 


After    the    ''Mad     Mullah." 

Bv  Captain  A.   H.  iJixox,   Kings  African  Rifles. 

II. 

Captain    Dixon   lias  just  returned  from    Somaliland,    where    he  fought  in    two    expeditions   against  the 

Mad  Mullah,  and  raised  and  commanded  a  company  of  native  Somali  levies.     He  gives  an  interesting 

account  of  the  difficulties  and  privations  of  campaigning  in  that  desolate  portion  of  the  Dark  Continent, 

illustrating  his  narrative  with    some  striking  photographs  taken  by  himself. 


N  returning  to  Btirao  at  the  end  of 
the'  first  e.xpedition  most  of  the 
levy  were  disbanded,  only  a  iew  of 
the  officers  and  about  four  com- 
panies being   temporarily  detained. 

Personally,  I  remained  at  Burao  with  one  other 

officer,  and  besides  the  small  garrison  had  some 

hundred  and  fifty  Dervish  prisoners,  whose  time 

I  employed  in   building  a  stockaded  fort.     As 

they  had  never  done  any   work   before  in  their 

lives,    they  objected 

strongly   and     made 

many   desperate 

efforts      to     escape, 

which,  however,  we're 

generally    frustrated. 

We    made    a    golf 

links,  loo,  in  the  dry 

river-bed,   with    the 

putting  greens  on  the 

hiuh    hnnks    at    the 
t  c  c  n  s 

'"  "ift  :  loose 

sand,    V.  ,    daily 

and  hammered,  but 

'   *'i' ulties  of  the 

■     ^-     would,     I 

tliink,     have     upset 

even   a    professional 

player.       To     begin 

with,    whenever    the 

river  <//r/ come  down 

d  the 

.■  c,     and 

what  one  day  was   soft   sand  would    be  (juiic 

hard  the  n(f.\t,  and  where  there  was  previously  a 

hole  a  bank  would   s|)ring  up,  and  7'ice  versa. 

Again,  every  animal  in  the  place  used  to  consider 

thr-  putting  greens  were  specially  made  to  roll  on, 

ami  as  they  were  made  of  .sand  you  often  found 

a  species  of  ploughed  field  awaiting  your  efforts 


means  of   recovering  it 


A    I  l.'.I.    Ml.;,!. -.11,, 


The  tin  pot  (generally  a  Quaker  oats  one) 
which  was  buried  in  the  sand  to  serve  as  a 
hole  greatly  e.xcited  the  Somalis'  cupidity,  and 
in  consequence  our  "holes"  were  constantly 
being  dug  up  and  carried  away.  And  the  thorn 
bushes  !  If  you  drove  the  least  bit  crooked,  or 
when  nearing  the  green  approached  too  hard, 
into  a  thorn  bush  your  ball  went  to  a  certainty, 
often   burying  itself    so  far    in    that    the    only 

was  to  half    burn   the 
tree  down. 

There  are  some 
hundred  and  fifty 
wells  at  Burao,  and 
day  and  night  crowds 
of  natives  bring  in 
their  animals  to 
water.  All  sorts  of 
curious  scenes  were 
to  be  witnessed. 
There  were  always 
difficult  points  to 
settle,  as  the  natives 
all  look  upon  the 
white  man  as  a  sort 
of  pocket  -  lawyer. 
One  of  their  customs 
is  that  if  a  man  dies 
his  brother  has  to 
marry  his  wives,  and 
this  occasionally 
leads  to  complica- 
tions. One  fine,  big 
woman  of  about 
twenty-five  years  of  age  came  to  me  and  protested 
against  having  to  marry  an  infant  of  some  six 
months  old,  which  she  held  in  her  arms,  and 
which  was  her  husband's  only  brother !  We 
quite  symi^athized  with  her,  but  the  case  was  too 
deep  for  us,  and  we  had  to  refer  it  to  the  elders 
of  the  tribe,  but  I  never  heard  their  decision. 


>\-     nil-.    l.AKl.KM     M1A.I1S    HI-     AN n.l.Ul'li    IN 
SHOT   IIV  CAPTAIN    UIXON. 


ini-.  w(iHi.i) 
[J '/to  to. 


AFTER     rHK    "MAD    MULLAH." 


429 


The  Midgan  or  hunter  tribe  of  Sonialis  are 
also  the  doctors,  and  arc  excellent  surgeons, 
domg  the  most  wonderful  operations  with  an 
old,  blunt  knife ;  and,  curiously  enough,  half 
the  heads  in  the  country  seem  to  have  been 
trepanned  at  one  time  or 
another. 

If  there  is  an  English 
doctor  about,  anyone  who 
is  sick  or  wounded  always 
comes  to  hmi  first  and 
then  goes  off  to  the 
Midgan,  who  generally 
undoes  all  the  good  the 
doctor  has  done.  No- 
thing will  induce  them  to 
keep  a  bandage  on  the 
minute  they  are  out  of 
sight  of  the  doctor. 

One  day  a  small  boy 
had  gone  down  a  well  to 
pick  up  a  bucket  which 
had  been  dropped,  when 
someone  above  accident- 
ally kicked  over  a  stone, 
which    fell  on   the  boy's 
head    and    cracked     his 
skull  clean   across.     He 
was     brought     to    the 
doctor,     who     bandaged 
him      up    nicely.       'Ihe 
boy    would    soon    have    been    all     right 
but  his  father  took  him   off  to   a   Midgan,    who 
removed  about  two  square  inches  of  his  skull, 
so  that  you  could  look  right  into  his  head,  and 
then    joined     the 
scalp    across     the 
hole  with  an  ordi- 
nary  bit   of   rope, 
bringing   the    boy 
to  us  to  show  how 
much  cleverer  he 
was     than     our 
doctor!  Naturally, 
the  boy  died  a  few 
days  later. 

Soon  after  this 
a  very  pigeon- 
chested  youth  was 
brought  to  be 
cured.  The  doc- 
tor told  him  no 
thing  could  be 
done,  so  away  he 
went,  and  I  saw 
him  a  few  days 
after,  when  he  had 
l)ecn  operated 
u  !>  o  n      by     a 


THE   ONLY    KELT    HAT    IN    SOMALILAND" — IT    CAME     IN    VEKV 
FlOlll  a\  USEFUL   AT   CAMP   CONCERTS.  [P/loiO. 


agam. 


THE    FORT   AT    llOHOTLEH    IIUILT   BY   THE    UKIl  ISH     1  KUOlb. 

front  a  Photo. 


Midgan,  who  had  cut  his'Xhcst,  bones  and 
all,  down  the  centre  aij^'.tlien  flattened  him 
out,  presumably  by  sittitig'On  it  !  This  "case" 
recovered,  but  I  should  imagine  he  was  some- 
what weak   in   the  chest  afterwards. 

Our  evenmgs  we  be- 
gitiled  with  a  banjo, 
romi(  songs,  and  a 
gramophone,  the  latter 
lieing  a  great  source  of 
joy  to  the  natives,  who 
called  it  "Shaitan 
.Sundak,"  or  Devil's  box. 
For  comic-^ongs  my  old 
felt  hat,  the  only  one  in 
the  country,  was  fre- 
quently brought  into  re- 
quisition. 

Just  before  Christmas, 
1 90 1,  news  began  to 
arrive  that  the  Mullah 
had  again  organized  his 
scattered  forces  and  was 
advancing  northwards 
with  some  ten  thousand 
men  to  raid  our  tribes. 
It  all  ha[)pened  so  quickly 
that  there  was  no  lime 
to  collect  eiiouizh  forces 
to  oppose  him,  and  he 
descended  on  the  un- 
fortunate Hair  Toljala  tribe,  who  were  grazing 
their  camels  at  Oodaweina,  some  sixty  miles  off, 
and  raided  all  their  live  stock—  sparing  neither 
man,- woman,   nor   child.     Two    old    men,   who 

were  unable 
through  age  to 
run  away,  had 
both  their  arms 
and  legs  broken, 
and  in  this  con- 
d  i  t  i  o  n  were 
1)  r  o  u  g  h  t  into 
Burao  by  their 
friends.  ^^'  e 
patched  them  up 
as  best  we  could, 
and  after  about 
two  months  they 
had  (]uite  re- 
covered. 

A  little  girl  of 
four,  whose  par- 
ents had  been 
killed,  was  stoned 
by  these  inhuman 
wretches,  whilst 
the  onlookers 
jeered  at  her  and 


43° 


THE   widl:   world  magazine. 


TMK    INTKRIOR   OK   AN   OKKICEk's   TKNT,    SHOWING  THE  ONLV    UF.U    IN 


From  a  | 


THE    EXPEDITION. 


told  her  to  run  to  her  friends  the  "  Kafirs  "  (an 
insulting  term  for  anyone  who  is  not  a  friend 
of  the  Mullah). 

'Ihe  Mullah  had  a  chief  executioner  called 
Kasadir.  who  luckily  got  hit  as  he  was  running 
away  at  the  Hattle  of  Krego,  and  died  two  days 
afterwards.  'I'his  brute  in  human  form  said  that 
he  was  unable  to  sleep  properly  at  night  unless 
he  had  killed  at  least  one  man  during  the  course 
of  the  day ! 

The  Mullah  about  this  time  gave  it  out  that 
any  white  man  he  (aught  would  he  put  into  a 
jKJt  of  cold  water  and  gradually  boiled  alive. 
Luckily,  he  Ijas  never  had  the  chance  of  carr) 
ing  out  his  evil  intentions.  I  was  informed  thai 
his  plan  with  any  .soldier  he  catches  is  to  cut  off 
a  foot  and  make  the  man  mark  time  on  the 
Mump  ;  this  he  calls  infantry  drill. 

A.s  an  instam  e  of  the  pace  at  whicli  a  raid  is 
carrie«|  out  and  the  difficulty  of  catching  the 
rai-  I  will  give  a  short  account  of  one  which 
took  pi. I' .  (inly  eighteen  miles  from  Huracj,  on 
the  Arrori  I'lain.  The  Mullah  collected  some 
three  thousand  men  at  Jlohotleh,  one  hundred 
•T"'  ''•••"  niiles  distant,  and  as  it  was  the 

*'f>  i'  there  was  not  a  soul  in  the  inter- 
vening space  to  give  timely  warning  ^f  his 
intentions,   and    he   descended    upon    the    un- 

*"■"•'' "'         '       '    ■      r    in    the    morning, 

""  ,   ,        jssed.      We  got  the 

news  at  Hurao  alxmt  lo  a.m.,  and  an  hour  after 


wards  were  off  in  hot  pursuit,  though 
all  the  companies  were  out  route 
marching  at  the  time  the  news  arrived 
and  had  to  double  all  the  way  back  to 
Burao,  so  that  some  of  us  had  done 
fourteen  miles  l>efore  we  started  in 
pursuit  of  the  Mullah.  At  this  season 
of  the  year  it  was  (}uite  impossible 
to  keep  any  ponies  at  Burao,  as  there 
was  not  a  blade  of  grass  in  any  direc- 
tion, and  therefore  we  had  all  to  go  on 
foot ;  but  we  managed  to  collect  some 
half-dozen  horses,  which  had  come  in 
to  the  wells  to  water. 

We  started  about  ii  a.m.  and 
marched  till  9  p.m.  without  a  halt. 
We  then  rested  for  one  and  a  half 
liours  and  marched  on  till  1 1  a.m. 
next  day,  *  by  which  time  we  had 
covered  (not  including  our  previous 
route  march)  fifty-eight  miles.  Our 
six  pony  men  then  went  on  another 
twenty  miles  and  succeeded  in  getting 
back  all  the  sheep  which  had  been 
raided  and  killing  ten  of  the  Mullah's 
men  ;  but  the  camels  we  were  unable 
[J'/wto.         jQ  recover. 

The  second  expedition  against  the 
Mullah  started  from  Buraoon  the  28th  May,  1902, 
and  as  he  had  established  himself  in  an  almost 
inaccessible  place  on  the  far  side  of  the  waterless 
I  laud,  and  the  dry  season  had  commenced,  we 
had  to  content  ourselves  with  looting  and 
engagements  with  any  small  bodies  of  the  enemy 
that  could  be  met  with,  until  such  time  as  the 
rains  again  commenced  and  enabled  us  to  cross 
the  desert  and  attack  him. 


A    l-OUK-KOOT    VVrV    ADDER— ITS    BITE    IS    FATAL    IN 
/•lOllla]  A     IIW    MINDTFS.  [/'/lo/O. 


aftj:k    rni-:   "Mad   .mli.i.ah." 


43' 


AT   EVERY   CAMP   THE   EXPEDITION 

From  a]  dvinc;  c 


At  ilic  same 
liiiK-,  as  wc  held 
all  the  water-holes 
ill  the  Nogal 
\'alley,  his  fol- 
lowers were  kept 
very  short  of 
water,  and  ihe 
mortality  amongst 
his  ponies,  upon 
which  he  depends 
for  his  great  mo- 
bility, was  enor- 
mous. M  a  j  o  r 
Sharj)  and  Lieu- 
tenant Salmon, 
whilst  the  main 
cokunn  were  in 
the  Nogal,  were 
left  at  Bohotleh 
with  some  four 
hundred  men,  a 
couple    of     Arab 

masons,  and  two  crowbars.  With  this  equip- 
ment they  managed  to  dig  out  enough  solid 
rock  to  build  the  fort  shown  in  one  of  the 
photographs,  making  their  own  lime  and  cutting 
the  requisite  timber  with  native  axes. 

T  h  e  fort  is 
octagonal  in 
shape,  each  side 
being  twelve  and 
a  half  yards  long, 
two  feet  six  inches 
thick,  and  about 
twenty  -  four  feet 
high  ;  whilst  the 
whole  place  is  so 
surrounded  by  en- 
tanglements and 
barbed  wire  that 
it  looks  like  a 
veritable  bird's 
cage.  We  were 
in  the  Nogal  for 
nearly  five  nuMiths, 
during  which  time 
no  news  of  the 
outer  world 
reached  us,  and 
as  we  were  march- 
ing long  distances 
daily  a  tem|)()rary 
halt  w  a  s  w  (.•  1  - 
corned  by  all. 
Another    of     the 

photographs  shows  one  of  our  captains  making 
himself  comfortable  on  the  only  bed  in  the 
force,   and  reading,   probably  for  the   twentieth 


LEFT    BEHIND    MANV    DEAD    A\l) 
AM  ELS.  [P/totO. 


From  a\ 


A    TYPICAL        SAMiAU        IN     I  HE    WII.DKKNESS. 


time,  one  of  the 
few  remaining 
four  -  month  -  old 
pa|)ers. 

There  are  a 
great  many  snakes 
in  this  valley. 
They  look  exactly 
like  dead  wood, 
and  are  a  species 
of  puff  adder, 
having  four  fangs  ; 
a  bite  from  one  is 
f  a  t  a  1  in  four 
minutes.  The 
photo,  on  the  pre- 
vious page  shows 
one  we  killed.  It 
was  four  feet  long 
and  about  three 
inches  in  girth. 
The  natives  .say 
that,  no  matter 
how  much  you  try,  they  will  not  die  before  mid- 
niglit,  and  certainly  this  one,  which  had  its  head 
smashed  absolutely  flat  at  ten  in  the  morning, 
was  still  moving  about  at  sunset  that  night. 
Our    losses    in    camels    were    great.       I'hese 

animals  are  very 
delicate  and  can- 
not stand  the 
strain  of  continu- 
ous marching,  and 
at  almost  every 
camp  we  left  a 
^i)od  many  behind 
dead  and  dying. 

While  we  were 
in  the  Nogal, 
which  was  very 
stony,  we  often 
made  "sangars," 
such  as  are  used 
in  India,  as  an 
additional  defence 
to  our  zareba,  but, 
unfortunately,  the 
Mullah  never  saw 
fit  to  attack  us 
when  we  were  in- 
side one  of  these. 
A  typical  sangar 
is  shown  here- 
with. 

'1' h  e  second 
e.xpedition  practi- 
cally ended  at  the  Battle  of  Erego,  on  the  6th 
October,  1902,  in  which  the  Mullah's  forces, 
although  they  temporarily  prevented  our  further 


\Fltoto 


THK    WIDK    WORl.l)    MAC.AZINE. 


J'rvm  a\  A   WOUNDED  officer   on    his   way   TO   THE   COAST. 


.  aiicc,  suffered 
:,.,>  a  severe  loss 
that  he  was  com 
plelely  unable  to 
taUv  any  force  to 
.i^ain  come  and 
attack  us,  and 
after  a  four  days' 
halt  at  Hadcl 
Lrego,  about  six 
miles  from  the 
scene  of  the  fight, 
ue  slowly  retired 
through  the 
densest  bush  I 
have  ever  seen  to 
Kohotleh. 

At  this  light 
(.'aptain  Howard 
«vas  badly  wound- 
ed through  the 
leg,  and  the  photo- 
^;raph  here  repro- 
tluced  shows  hint 
about  six  weeks 
later  on  his  way 
to  the  coast 

Badel     Krego 
was  the  Mullah's  head-quarters  for  a  consider- 
able p<;riod,  and  we  found  (juite  a  large  deserted 
village  there  made  of  sticks  covered  with  "dur," 
a  In  .  ies  fif  grass  only  found  in  the  Haud. 

< '  il  at   lioholleh  Colonel  Swayne  pro- 

ceeded with  most  of  the  Somali  levies  and  all 
i[)-foll()wers  to  the  coast,  where  they  were 
, —    .:i.     Colonel  ( "obbe,  with  two  Somali  com- 
panies  and    the    three   companies    2nd    King's 
African  Rifles,  went  to  Garraro,  some 
'  -     '  vs'  march  nearer  the  coast,   to 
Il   a    fortified    post,    whilst    the 
6th    Battalion    King's   African    Rifles 
»    and    one    Somali 
■i     at     liohotleh    to 


I  he  two  wuunded  officers  and  all 
Ihc  wor-'  '  ■  -• ,  amongst  the  Somalia 
•iN"  r«  '■.   and   a    terribly  trying 

tinic   we   had   of  it    before   we  were 
ri-lf       '  '  .  later. 

'•  "pen  space  of  about 

half  a  mile  s<{uarc,  covered  with  grass, 

in<-  himdred  and  fifty  or 

■  ..jilctely  surrounded  with 

I.      The   fort   itself  has    no 

t  of  the   garrison    had, 

■"■"'"■','"11,  1  adjoining  st(»(k- 

;hI«-       111,-  (111  .,.   trrribly  heavy, 

•IS  wc  never  knew  when  we  might  be 

attacked,  and   the   surrounding   bush 


had  to  be  con- 
stantly patrolled 
night  and  day. 
The  only  rations 
wc  had  for  the 
men  were  some 
two  hundred  and 
fifty  camels,  which 
had  to  go  out  into 
the  jungle  daily  to 
graze  and  recjuired 
a  guard  of  at  least 
one  company,  for 
if  they  had  been 
raided  we  should 
have  been  starved 
out. 

The  Mullah  was 
continually  send- 
ing in  parties  of 
spies  to  endeavour 
to  obtain  informa- 
tion about  our 
strength,  etc.,  for, 
though  he  wanted 
badly  to  attack  us, 
he  would  not  do 
so  until  he  had 
something  definite  to  go  on,  and  we  were 
constantly  having  small  skirmishes  in  the  bush 
with  these  people,  but  they  never  succeeded  in 
breaking  through,  and  we  managed  to  kill 
a  good  many  and  captured  about  ten  warriors. 
From  these  latter  we  got  the  first  reliable  infor- 
mation we  had  received  about  what  had  really 
happened  to  the  Mullah's  force  at  Erego  and 
what  a  drubbing  he  had  sustained. 


\,Fhoto. 


/•  roiii  a 


[/'/into. 


Al'l'l" 


I'm;     '-MAD     MLI.I.AII. 


43: 


Our  worst 
troubles  began 
about  three  days 
after  the  main 
body  had  left  us, 
when  it  started  to 
ruin  in  torrents 
and  hardly  ceased 
at  all  for  a  month 
on  enil.  Neither 
men  nor  officers 
had  any  huts  or 
tents,  and  the  few- 
waterproof  sheets 
we  possessed  were 
so  full  of  holes 
and  generally 
worn  out  as  to  be 
practically  value- 
less. We  were, 
therefore,  drench- 
ed to  the  skin 
night  after  night, 
and  it  was  a  mar- 
vel any  of  us  lived 
to    tell     the     tale. 

Shortly  ;ifter  the  rain  commenced  mosquitoes 
came  in  myriads,  rendering  sleep  a  sheer  impos- 
sibility. I  have  been  in  most  parts  of  this  globe, 
but  never  have  I  seen  such  dense  masses  of 
these  pests  or  met  with  a  more  virulent  and  per- 
sistent species  than  the  Bohotleh  variety. 

The  men,  who  for 
the  last  six  months  had 
had  nothing  but  meat 
to  eat,  and  were  com- 
pletely worn  out  by 
the  hard  marching  and 
fighting  they  had  under- 
gone, now  proceeded  to 
go  down  with  fever, 
and  gradually  succumbed 
one  by  one  until  over 
45      per     cent,      were 


OmCF.RS    EN'JOYIXC;    A    REST   AFTER    TEN    MONTHS     0AM  I'A  rCNlNG    IN 

From  a\  the  desekt.  [Photo. 


C(jnipletely  pro- 
strated and  a  great 
many  died.  'I'his, 
of  course,  threw 
double  work  on 
everybody,  and 
many  men  were  on 
duty  all  day,  and 
again  had  to  go  on 
at  night.  Vet  the 
whole  time  every 
Somali  who  was 
not  too  ill  did 
his  work  cheerfully 
and  without  com- 
plaint, and  I  think 
it  speaks  wonders 
for  them  that  not 
a  man  deserted, 
though  being  so 
close  to  tlieir  own 
country  they  could 
easily  have  done  so. 
The  whole  of  the 
surrounding  coun- 
try was  now  turned 
into  a  huge  lake,  and  we  made  rafts  of  water-tins 
joined  together  by  stretcher-poles,  on  which  we 
used  to  punt  about  the  camp.  The  accompany- 
ing photo,  shows  me  punting  about  on  m\-  raft. 

W'e  were  relieved  on  the  20th  of  Xosember 
last,   and  after  a  most  trying  march  down  to  the 

coast  with  all  the  sick, 
many  of  whom  died  on 
the  wav,  we  reached 
Berbera,  and  found  it  in 
full  preparation  for  a  new 
expedition,  which  we 
all  fervently  hope  may 
fmally  end  in  the  cap- 
ture or,  at  any  rate,  the 
final  break  -  up  of  the 
Mullah's  influence  and 
])Ower  in  Somnliland. 


THE   AUTHOH    I'UNTING   ABOUT  THE    KLOODED  CAMP. 
Priuii   n    Photo, 


Vol.  ;<i.     56- 


The    Pursuit  of   Captain   Victor. 

By  Sergeant  Harry  Glenn,  U.S.  Marine  Corps. 

II. 

The  story  of  the  American  campaign  against  the  Filipino  "  insurrectos  "  in  the  Island  of  Samar  is 
one  of  the  most  exciting  in  the  annals  of  modern  war.  Below  will  be  found  the  conclusion  of 
the  only  full  account  which  has  yet  been  published  of  one  of  the  most  striking  phases  of  this 
remarkable  campaign  the  hunting  down  of  the  cruel  and  wily  Filipino  outlaw  Captain  Victor, 
whom  both  Spanish  and  American  troops  had  sought  in  vain  to  capture.  The  story  is  written  by 
a  member  of  the  little  force  which,  after  enduring  terrible  privations  in  the  wilderness,  finally  captured 

the  ••  Scourge  of  Samar,"  as  Captain  Victor  was  called. 


()  be  lost  in   a  \vildernes.s  is,   under 
any    circumstances,    an     unpleasant 
e.xperience  ;    but  in  a  situation  like 
ours  it  was  likely  to  be  fraught  with 
most  seri(jus  conse(iuences. 
I'hcrc  was  not  a  single  man  in  good  physical 
condition.     Many  were  able  to  keep  their  feet 
and  march  by  sheer  force  of  will-power  alone  ; 
•IK-  were  almost  blind  from  the  attacks  of  the 
hes  ;  and  all  were  weak  from  loss  of  blood 
and  semi-starvation.     The  shoes  of  fully  three- 
fourths  were  worn   out  and   the  soles   of  their 
feet  Were  cut   by  stones  and   gravel,  while  our 
bodies  were  torn  and  lacerated  by  the   thorny 
bushes.      Wild    plants  which  could  be  used  for 
tuod   purposes  were  scarce,  and  native  clearings 
were  rarely  met  with.     To  add  to  the  desperate 
nature  of  our  situation,  .several  men  had  begun 
to  deveIo|)  signs  of  fever. 

L'ruK-r  the  circumstances  it  is  not    surprising 

that,  when  the  men  felt  they  were  lost   in   this 

II  wilderness,  the  cheerfulness  which  had 

.'sustained  them  departed  and  they  saw 

nothing  ahead  but  starvation  and  death. 

The    native    carriers   alone   appeared    to   be 

— •''  the  worse  for  the  journey  or  the  experi- 

•  s  we  were  undergoing.     'I'he  healthiest  and 

most  cheerful   among  them   all  was  Victor,  the 

'  .irricr  who  r|ivoli-d  himself  exclusively  to  .\Iajor 

^\  .iller.      Although   he   mingktl   very  little   with 

the    other    natives  and    held    aloof   from     the 

ins,  N'ictor  devoted  himself  with  marked 

■■•   'umfort  of  our  conunanding  officer, 

his  every   want.       He    insisted    on 

the  Major's  liclongingsand  even  offered 

Mm   of  the   weight   of  his    bolo  and 

i        .    '         s  revolver. 

In  those  dark  hours  of  depression  and  dcsjjair 

only  two  men  fuaintained  a  bold  and  undaunted 

fr«»nt.     They   were   Major  Waller    and  Captain 

I'orter.      Kven  Corpf)ral  .Murphy,  our  joker,  who 

wont  to  make  light  of  hardships,  gave  way 

'"•  ''"    ' 1.1  melancholy. 

^'  'lied  to  discuss  the 

I,  and  all,  with  the  exception  of  Major 
I'orter,  wanted  \<>  turn  back 


trv  t.. 


i:  garri'-"" 


Tl 


K-V    lit 


Id 


that  we  were  now  in  about  the  centre  of  the 
island  ;  and  that,  considering  the  awful  con- 
dition of  the  men  and  that  the  stores  were 
exhausted  and  the  journey  only  half  completed, 
it  was  wiser  to  retreat.  The  Major  and  the 
Captain,  however,  were  confident  that  we  could 
get  through,  and  that  it  was  better  to  go  forward 
than  back. 

It  was  finally  decided  that  Major  Waller 
should  take  a  few  men  and  push  ahead,  leaving 
the  bulk  of  the  party  behind  under  command 
of  Captain  Porter.  When  this  conclusion  was 
coninumicated  to  the  rest  of  us,  the  men,  for- 
getting military  discipline,  protested.  It  was 
not  insubordination  :  it  was  love  of  their  com- 
mander which  moved  them.  With  tears  in  their 
eyes  they  begged  him  not  to  embark  upon  an 
undertaking  which  seemed  to  them  suicidal. 

His  voice  siiaking  with  feeling,  the  Major 
turned  to  us  and  replied  :-  - 

"  It  is  my  duty  to  go,  men.  It  will  be  your 
death  if  I  don't.  I  believe  it  is  our  only 
hope." 

Taking  thirteen  of  the  men  the  Major  departed, 
and  with  him  went  his  tireless,  assiduous  native 
carrier.  Twelve  hours  later  the  little  advance 
guard  came  upon  a  clearing,  in  wliich  there  was 
a  deserted  hut  and  a  vegetable  garden.  I'or  the 
first  time  in  many  days  there  was  an  abundance 
of  food.  \Vhile  a  meal  was  being  prepared  the 
Major  wrote  a  hurried  note  to  Captain  I'orter, 
apprising  him  of  the  timely  find  and  directing 
him  to  hurry  his  nien  forward.  Scaling  it,  he 
called  the  faithful  X'ictor. 

"Take  this  letter  with  all  speed  to  Captain 
Porter,"  the  Major  said. 

Victor  saluted  res[)ectfully  and  departed  on 
his  errand.  In  a  few  minutes  he  was  lost 
among  the  tangled  recesses  of  the  forest,  travel- 
ling along  the  trail  that  had  been  painfully  cut 
by  the  tired  men  now  lying  about  the  little 
clearing.  Hours  passed  and  Victor  did  not 
return.  Major  Waller  began  to  be  uneasy.  At 
length,  however,  the  missing  carrier  came  back, 
much  dishevelled,  and  witli  every  appearance  of 
fright.  In  his  h.-nid  he  cuiicd  the  missive  with 
whi(  li  lie  had  been  ciitrustrd. 


in:   PURSUIT  OF  captain  victc^r. 


435 


"  I  cuuld  nut  gel  thruugli  to  Captain  I'ortLr, 
Major,"  \'ictor  reported.  "The  woods  are  full 
of  '  insurrectos.'  I  had  great  difficulty  in  escaping 
them  and  returning.'' 

This  information  was  as  astonishing  as  it  was 


'■  '  I    COULD    .\OT  GET   THROUGH    TO   CAI'TAI.N    PORTER,    MAIOR,     VICIOK    KEI'ORrKI). 


disqui(;ting.  Throughout  the  entire  journey 
there  had  not  been  the  slightest  sign  of  liostile 
hands.  Indeed,  since  we  entered  the  forest 
country  only  two  or  three  native  clearings 
showed  that  any  human  life  had  ever  existed  in 
this  awful  wilderness.  The  Major,  therefore, 
could  scarcely  credit  the  mtelligence,  despite 
the  fidelity  which  had  been  shown  all  along  by 
the  messenger.  He  (juestioned  him  closely, 
but  the  man  never  deviated  in  the  slightest 
degree  from  his  original  story,  and  the  Major 
was  finally  compelled  to  accept  it  as  true. 

It  was  now  imperative  that  the  party  should 
push  forward   as   rapidly  as    possible   for   help. 


LeavMig  a  note  for  Cainain  I'orier  fastened  to  a 
tree  in  the  clearing,  .Major  Waller  mustered  his 
men  and  the  march  was  resumed.  Ne.xt  morn- 
ing the  little  detachment  came  to  a  river  which 
had  to  be  passed.  'I'he  frequent  rains  had 
swollen  It  greatly,  and  the  water 
►  rushed  along  at  the  rate  of  twelve 
or  fifteen  knots  an  hour.  It  was 
too  deep  to  ford,  so  the  strongest 
man  in  the  party  swam  across 
and,  releasing  a  long  bajuca  vine, 
carried  the  free  end  back  to  his 
comrades.  Then  one  by  one  the 
men  seized  it,  the  current  carry- 
ing them  quickly  to  the  other 
side. 

An  hour  later  another  shack 
was  come  upon  and  the  natives 
living  in  it,  the  first  yet  seen, 
were  captured  ;  one,  a  boy, 
agreed  to  guide  the  party  to  the 
Sojoton.  That  night  the  rains 
descended  with  unusual  fury, 
and  the  little  band  of  ex- 
hausted men  camped  in  the 
dense  forest.  With  the  excep- 
tion of  the  sentry  and  Major 
^^'aller  every  man  fell  into  a 
deep  slumber,  with  the  torren- 
tial rain  pouring  down  on 
their  recumbent  forms. 

Yet  there  were  scenes  sur- 
rounding them  tliat  might  well 
have  kept  stronger  men  awake 
—scenes  that  would  chill  the 
blood  of  the  superstitious  and 
arouse  the  keen  interest  of 
investigators. 

As  soon  as  evening  suc- 
ceeded day  a  fliint,  weird 
glimmer  of  palely  glancing 
light  began  to  twinkle  over 
the  ground,  among  the  leaves, 
and  on  the  trunks  of  trees. 
As  darkness  increased  and 
the  rain  fell  more  heavily  the  shifting  light:; 
grew  in  luimlier  and  intensity,  until  the  ground, 
the  bushes,  the  trees  — everything,  in  fact,  in 
that  mighty  forest — glowed  with  dancini:  shafts 
of  lurid  flame  which  yet  gave  out  no  heat.  At 
length,  when  the  vegetation  became  .saturated 
with  moisture,  the  light  grew  so  intense  that  it 
was  possible  to  read  by  it,  and  clear  and 
distinct  shadows  were  cast.  This  weird  radiance 
was  the  glow  of  a  curious  phosphorescent 
fungus  found  in  tropical  woods,  but  rarely  so 
extensively  as  on  the  spot  nrcnpiid  by  the 
wearied  marines. 

The  Major  .sat  at  the  foot  of  a  great  tree,  with 


43' 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


his  back  resting  against  the 
trunk.  Captain  Bearss  lay  close 
beside  him,  with  his  head  on  the 
Major's  lap.  Major  Waller  could 
not  sleep.  The  desperate  situn 
tion  of  the  men  under  his  cait . 
the  fate  of  the  party  under  Cap- 
lain  Porter,  and  his  weird  sur- 
roundings combined  to  keep  him 
awake. 

Suddenly  he  felt  a  curious 
sense  of  impending  peril,  and  at 
once  became  keenly  alert  to 
what  was  going  on  around  him. 
There  was  no  sound  save  the 
monotonous  beat  of  the  rain  on 
the  leaves,  the  occasional  snap- 
ping of  a  decayed  branch,  and 
the  soughing  of  the  wind.  With 
stealthy  hand  he  felt  tor  his  bolo. 
His  heart  seemed  to  stand  still — 
the  weapon  was  gone  ! 

Ix-aning  over,  he  hurriedly 
woke  the  sleeping  Bearss.  "  Be 
(juiet,  Bearss,"  he  whispered. 
'*  There  is  devilry  afoot.  My 
Ik>Io  has  been  .stolen  !  " 

As  he  spoke  the  .strange  pho- 
p!  '  nt  light  cast  before  him 
lii  .Av  of  a  n»an,  wearing  a 

rain-hat,  crouching  under  some 
bushes.  With  a  hand  (|ui(k  and 
firm  -Major  Waller  thrust  aside 
the  head  o(  Ca[)tain  Bearss.  A 
sure,  swift  spring  and  he  was  on 
the  skulker  and  hafl  him  by  the 
thri)at,  dragging  him  out  into  a  *' 

place  where  the  phosphorescent 
li  '  igly.      .As  he  did 

?•'■  .,     'lo  dropped  from 

the  nerveliss  hand  of  the  prisoner. 

The  .NIajor  jKx-red  earnestly  into  his  captive's 

■'  '    hardly  r«!press  an  ex(  lamation 

It    was   the   faithful    Niclor, 


I    AM    CAPTAIN    VICTOR  '.      HK    ANSWEKEIJ,    I'KOUIJl.V. 


,1 


f...   • 

the  «amcr  who  had  l»een  serving  him  with  su(  h 
•'       '  '^•'     l'«>r  the   first   iiiuf  a  faint  sus 

I"  'I  the  .Majors  mind. 

*'  Who  are  you  ?  "  he  dmianded.  sternly. 

The    man    drew    himself   up    haughtily 
gave  a  truly  ■  '■•-  'ling  reply. 

"  I    am    '  \irtor  !  "     h 

proutlly. 


ind 


f     answered. 


ai 
late 

Voli 


»'».iii'-r     stared     at     iiim 
lit.      .At    li-n.,'th    he    iii.iri:i. 


Ill    absolute 

'  <'     •"    '•j.icil 


r 

\<>    kill    yon 

im  sorrv  I  failed. 


I    (  afttaiii 

I  r  I  \    '■>  " 


th( 


\  II  lor  :      Why   did 
la<  oiiie  reply.       •  I 


The  Major  did  some  hard  thinking  for  a 
moment.      Then  he  turned  to  Captain  Ik-arss. 

"  Bearss,''  he  said,  "  we  must  keep  the  know- 
ledge of  this  man's  identity  to  ourselves  until 
we  get  back  to  Basey.  The  men  would  tear 
him  to  pieces." 

Bearss  assented.  The  notorious  Ladrone 
(^hieftain,  whose  identity  had  been  so  strangely 
revealed,  was  turned  over  to  the  guard,  with  the 
terse  statement  that  he  had  been  caught  acting 
treacherously  and  must  be  kept  a  close  prisoner. 
The  next  day  Major  Waller  and  his  little  party 
reached  the  Sojoton  River  and  safety. 

After  the  departure  of  Majcjr  Waller,  the  men 
left  behind  under  command  of  Captain  Porter 
were  consumed  with  deep  anxiety.  A  day 
jjassed  and  there  came  no  word.  Captain  J'orter 
summoned  a  native. 


THi:   PURsurr  of  CAprAix   \  ictor. 


437 


"I  want  you,'' he  said,  "to  search  for  informa- 
tion concerning  the  whereabouts  of  Major  Waller 
and  report  as  quickly  as  possible.  You  should 
be  back  by  morning." 

Morning  came,  but  the  native  had  not  re- 
turned. It  was  near  noon  before  he  came  in, 
apparently  footsore  and  weary,  with  the  report 
that  he  could  find  no  traces  of  the  Major  and 
his  men. 

The  Captain  was  now  in  desperate  straits. 
Nearly  all  the  men  were  ill,  and  food  was  about 
exhausted.  There  were  only  a  few  cans  of 
bacon  and  one  ration  of  coffee  left.  Porter 
accordingly  decided  to  take  six  of  his  strongest 
men  and  return  over  the  trail  to  a  place  called 
Lenang,  where  he  hoped  to  secure  help.  The 
rest  of  the  party  were  placed  under  the  com- 
mand of  Lieutenant  Williams. 

The  seven  men  suffered  appalling  hardships, 
but  finally  reached  their  destination  safely  on 
the  evening  of  January  i6th.  Meanwhile,  the 
rest  of  us,  com- 
plete wrecks, 
made  feeble  pre- 
parations for  re- 
treat. About  an 
hour  after  the 
departure  of 
Ca[)tain  Porter 
we  broke  canij) 
and  began  crawl- 
ing  painfully 
over  the  old  trail 
towards  the  So- 
joton. 

On  the  night 
before  rain  had 
descended 
heavily.     'J' he 
mountain 
streams  became 
so  swollen  as  to 
be  almost  im- 
passable,    bo 
great    were    the 
difficulties  which 
confronted  us 
that  we  were  two 
and  a  half  days 
in    ascending    a 
mountain     we 
had     previously 
descended  in  a  little  more  than  an 
iiour.      Reaching  the  top,   the  con- 
dition of  the  men,  both  mental  and 
physical,  made  a  rest  of  nearly  two  days  neces- 
sary;  and  the  only  food   we   had    in   that  time 
were  two  meals  ol   camotes  and  two  of  garbi. 

From  this  time  forth  night  and  day  were  all 


one  to  us.  We  stumbled  along,  scarcely  con- 
scious of  what  we  were  doing.  Even  the  atti- 
tude of  the  few  natives  we  saw — which  became 
more  and  more  threatening  as  we  proceeded  — 
failed  to  awaken  us  from  our  apathy.  By  day 
we  stumbled  painfully  and  half  unconsciously 
over  the  rough  path,  leaving  trails  of  blood 
behind  from  our  lacerated  feet,  liy  night  we 
sank  to  the  ground  wherever  we  happened  to 
be,  and  lay  there  in  a  stupor  until  aroused  next 
morning  to  begin  again  our  torturing  niarrh. 

Finally,  the  brain  of  one  man,  Private  Murray, 
could  stand  the  fearful  strain  no  longer.  He 
went  mad.  He  did  not  become  violent,  but 
simply  sat  down  on  the  ground,  smiled  with  a 
loving  kindness  that  was  heartbreaking  to  see, 
waved  his  liands  to  his  comrades,  and  refused 
to  leave.  As  we  passed  out  of  siglit  among  the 
trees  he  was  still  smiling — smiling  and  waving  a 
friendly  farewell. 

Another  man.  Private  Baroni,  had  previously 


given  out 
from  illness 
and  been  left 

A    FKIKNni.V    l-AKKWKI.L."  at    a     little 

clearing,  as 
we  were  too  weak  to  carry  him.  After  that,  one  by 
one  others  dropped  from  the  ranks,  sank  by  the 
wayside,  and  had  to  be  abandoned,  until  ten--- 
Connell,  Sanjule,   Foster,  Britt,  Woods,   Brown, 


4.^8 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


baastnt,  Bail),  and  the  two  others  I  have  named 
■ — were  behind  us. 

Two  days  more  of  bitter  suffering  and  there 
came  a  crisis  with  the  native  carriers.  It  was 
on  the  afternoon  of  January  17th.  We  had 
reached  the  banks  of  a  river  and  were  making 
preparations  for  crossing.  Lieutenant  Williams, 
reconnoitring,  strolled  away  up  the  banks  and 
was  soon  out  of  sight.  Suddenly  we  heard  a 
feeble  cr>'  for  help  and  the  sound  of  clashing 
steel.  We  seized  our  rifles  and  tottered  in  the 
direction  of  the  conflict.  Parting  the  bushes, 
we  saw  Lieutenant  Williams  defending  himself 
with  his  bolo  against  the  attack  of  three  of  our 
native  carriers. 

\Vc  gave  a  cry  of  rage  and  staggered  on, 
striving  to  raise  our  rifles  to  shoot  the  treacherous 
natives.  Seeing  us,  the  traitors  turned  and 
fled  to  the  thickets  and  disappeared.     Sergeant 


rilEV    mCKEO    us   Ul'   LIKK   .  llll.DKKN. 


McCaffrey,  who  was  in  advance  of  the  little 
party  of  rescuers,  was  so  weak  that  he  could  not 
work  the  bolt  of  his  rifle  when  he  attempted  to 
shoot.  Realizing  his  helplessness  he  leaned  on 
the  barrel  of  his  weapon  and  wept  hot  tears  of 
anger  and  mortification. 

But  our  misery,  fortunately,  was  nearly  over. 
At  noon  the  next  day  we  heard  a  crashing  of 
bushes,  then  a  wild  American  cheer,  and  a  party 
of  our  "  boys  "  burst  into  sight.  They  had  been 
sent  out  to  search  for  us  after  the  arrival  of 
Captain  Porter's  little  party  at  Lenang.  They 
picked  us  up  like  children,  carried  us  to  waiting 
bancos  (native  boats),  and  took  us  to  Lenang. 
No  trace  was  ever  found  of  the  ten  poor  fellows 
we  left  behind,  although  search  parties  were 
sent  all  over  the  route  taken.  It  was  thought 
that  some  of  the  native  carriers  who  deserted 
went  back  and  murdered  them  in  cold  blood, 

afterwards  concealing  their 
bodies. 

Of  the  forty  men  who 
succeeded  in  reaching  the 
garrisons  again  after  that 
awful  march,  more  than 
one  half  subsequently 
died.  One  became  stone 
blind,  and  few  of  those 
who  did  survive  have 
entirely  recovered  their 
health. 

When  the  officers  met 
they  compared  notes,  and 
it  was  discovered 
that  the  native  sent 
out  by  Captain 
Porter  met  Captain 
X'ictor,  the  mes- 
senger of  Major 
^^'aller.  Between 
them  they  con- 
cocted the  tales 
which  each  carried 
back  to  his  com- 
niander.  It  was 
also  ascertained 
that  nearly  all  the 
natives  attached  to 
the  party  had 
joined  with  the  de- 
liberate intention 
of  assassinating  the 
officers  and  massa- 
cring the  men  at 
the  first  oppor- 
tunity. The  plot 
was  conceived  by 
Captain  Victor  and 
two  or  three  others. 


THE    PURSUrr    OF    CAPTAIN'    VICTOR. 


439 


All  the  carriers,  of  course,  were  arrested. 
There  were  some  forty-five  prisoners,  among 
whom,  it  was  found,  eleven  were  ringleaders. 
A  conference  of  officers  was  held,  and  it  was 
unanimously  decided  that  Major  Waller  was 
justified  in  ordering  the  summary  execution 
of  the  traitors.  Within  ten  minutes  after  the 
decision  was  arrived  at.  Captain  Victor  and 
another  j-'ilipino  leader  were  brought  before 
Major  Waller. 

"Victor,"  said  he,  "you  will  remember  I 
warned  you  some  time  ago  that,  because  of  your 
horrible  crimes,  if  I  ever  got  hold  of  you,  I 
would  settle  your  case  speedily.  Now  you  have 
attempted  to  assassinate  me.'' 

"  Yes,"  broke  in  Victor,  defiantly,  "  and  I  am 
sorry  I  failed." 

"  I  am  going  to  have  you  shot  at  once,"  con- 


screaming  wretch  away.  Five  nnnutes  later 
there  came  from  the  jungle  the  sound  of  eleven 
rifle  volleys  in  rapid  succession.  Some  drowsy 
natives  raised  their  heads  for  a  moment  to 
listen,  but  rifle-shots  were  common  in  Samar, 
and  they  sank  back  again  in  sleep. 

But  the  rifleshots  this  time  had  a  deep  sig- 
nificance. With  their  echoes  went  out  the  lives 
of  eleven  scoundrels,  among  whom  was  Captain 
Victor,  the  "Scourge  of  Samar." 

Because  of  a  report  that  the  execution 
was  accompanied  with  tortures,  Major  Waller 
was  tried  by  a  court-martial  on  the  charge 
of  murder.  He  was  honourably  acquitted, 
and  not  long  ago  was  promoted  to  lieutenant- 
colonel. 

I  am  beside  him  still.  Both  of  us  came  un- 
scathed   through    the    innumerable    dangers    of 


'  I    AM    GOING    TO    HAVR    VOU    SHor   AT   ONCE,'   CON  1  INUEl)    IHE   M.\;"R. 


tinued  the   Major;  "and    you   too,"  he  added, 
turning  to  Victor's  companion. 

The  face  of  Captain  Victor  became  ashen. 
His  knees  swayed.  Sinking  at  the  feet  of  Major 
Waller  in  abject  terror,  he  begged  for  his  life. 
The  other  traitor  folded  his  arms  and  took  his 
sentence  stoically.  With  a  sad  face  Major 
^Valler  signed  to  the  guards,  and  they  bore  the 


that  terrible  march.  But  always  fresh  in  my 
mind  are  the  memories  of  the  pitfall-studded 
trails,  the  merciless  onslaught  of  the  leeches, 
the  wistful  faces  of  our  poor  comrades  who  fell 
out  to  die  by  the  wayside,  and  the  ashen  pallor 
on  the  face  of  Captain  Victor  when  he  under- 
stood at  last  that  his  manifold  crimes  had  passed 
the  limits  of  the  white  man's  mercy. 


The  Cave-Dwellers  of  Mexico. 

By  Dr.  Carl  Lumholtz. 

Dr.  Lumholtz  spent  several  years  in  the  practically  unknown  Sierra  Madre  del  Norte  region 
of  Mexico,  where  he  discovered  some  extraordinary  races  of  cave-dwellers,  living  to  -  day 
exactly  as  they  did  before  the  Spanish  conquest.  In  order  to  study  these  primitive  people 
Dr.  Lumholtz  lived  with  them  for  some  considerable  time.  He  describes  his  experiences  in 
the    accompanying   article,    which    is    illustrated    with    some     remarkable    photographs,  and    has    been 

specially  written    for  "  The    Wide    World    Magazine." 


HO  has  not  heard  of  the  wonderful 
cliff  dwellings  in  the  south-western 
section  of  the  North  American  con- 
tinent ?  They  were  discovered  only 
some  forty  years  ago,  and  ever  since 
curious  tourists  and  earnest  scientists  have 
visited  Flagstaff,  Arizona,  or  Mancos  Canyon  in 
Colorado  to  look  at  those  marvellous  structures, 
which,  with  unseeing  eyes,  like  some  uncanny 
s[)eclres  of  a  bygone  time,  stare  into  the  present 
age,  wondering  and  to  be  wondered  at.  If 
tho.se  stones  could  speak,  what  a  story  they 
might  tell  I  But  present-day  investigators  have 
ways  and  means  of  eliciting  information  from 
such  mute  relics  as  the  flint  arrow-heads, 
pottery  sherds,  and  remnants  of  plaited  mats 
and  baskets  found  in  these  cell-like  apartments 
on  the  steep  mountain  walls. 

Prehistoric  these  ruins  certainly  are,  yet  it  is  a 
question  whether 
they  are  really 
ancient,  as  there 
is  .some  indica- 
tion that  when 
the  contiuering 
Spaniards  first 
came  uj)on  them 
some  of  these 
cliff  -  dwellings 
were  still  in- 
habited. More- 
over, the  builders 
of  these  curious 
h.ibi  tat  ions  ex- 
tended over  an 
immense  area, 
for  I  found  ruins 
of  the-  same  style 
in  the  remote 
mountain  ranges 
of  North  \\'estern 
Mexico. 

Travelling  some 
four  hundred  miles 


south  of  the  boundary  line  between  the  United 
States  and  Mexico,  in  the  forbidding  mountain 
fastnesses  of  the  Sierra  Madre,  I  came  upon 
natives  who  to  this  day  prefer  to  live  in  caves 
rather  than  in  the  shelter  of  houses  of  their 
own  construction. 

Thanks  to  the  geological  nature  of  the 
country,  in  which  sandstone  and  weathered 
porphyry  abound,  the  mountain  slopes  are  full 
of  caverns  ;  and  primitive  man  gratefully  and 
contentedly  accepted  Nature's  bounty.  Caves, 
especially  in  winter,  are  preferred  by  a  great 
many  of  these  people,  as  they  are  warm  and  a 
much  more  effective  protection  against  the 
elements  than  the  huts  which  the  more  {)ro- 
gressive  members  of  the  tribe  fashion,  with 
primitive  tools  and  appliances,  from  split  pine- 
logs. 

The    Mexican    cave-dwellers   of    to-day,    the 


AN    ANCIKNT   CAVK-HWEI.MNG   IN     I  IIF. 
SIKRRA    MAURE   DEI,   NflRTR. 

hioiii  a  ritolo. 


THE    CA\K-I)\Vi:i. LICKS    UK    MEXICO. 


441 


THE    GREAT    WALL   OF    ROCK    IN    WHICH    HIOST   OK    THE    TARAHUMARE   CAVE-DWELI.INGS   ARE    FOUND. 

From  a  Photo. 


Tarahumare  Indians,  once  occupied  the  main 
part  of  the  present  State  of  Chihuahua,  but 
nowadays  they  are  confined  to  part  of  that 
immense  mountainous  region  which  under  the 
name  of  Sierra  Madre  del  Norte  runs  along  the 
western  coast  of  Mexico.  Viewing  this  range 
from  the  west,  it  appears  like  a  towering  rugged 
wall,  while  towards  the  east  it  rises  more 
gradually.  Many  rivers  have  their  origin  here, 
and  after  a  more  or  less  tortuous  course 
empty  into  the  Pacific  Ocean,  running  in  pre- 
cipitous canyons  or  barrancas,  like  deep  gashes 
in  the  mountain  range,  which  make  this  part 
of  Mexico  hard  to  traverse.  In  this  region,  so 
difficult  of  access,  we  find  the  cave-dwellers — 
practically  beyond  reach  of  and  out  of  touch 
with  the  outer  world — leading  a  primitive  life  of 
their  own.  So  little  have  they  outgrown  the 
childhood  stage  of  mankind  that  on  the  approach 
of  a  stranger  they  will,  like  deer,  flea  out  of 
sight,  leaving  the  homestead  at  the  mercy  of  the 
intruder,  liut  they  do  not  lose  sight  of  it,  any 
more  than  a  bird  will  fly  too  far  from  the  nest 
that  is  being  ravaged  ;  and  woe  to  the  man  who 
disregards  the  rights  of  property.  Quicker  than 
to  the  average  white  man  would  seem  possible 
they  call  their  neighbours  within  a  radius  of 
some  twenty  miles,  and  in  a  few  hours  fifty  men 
may  be  on  the  spot  to  wreak  vengeance  for  the 


Vol. 


-56. 


outrage.  Timid  as  they  are  when  alone,  their 
aggregate  courage  knows  no  limit,  and  cases  are 
known  when  Mexicans  have  had  to  pay  with 
their  lives  the  penalty  of  an  offence. 

As  often  as  not  the  cave  is  accepted  as  Nature 
made  it,  rough  and  ready ;  but  the  more 
fastidious  add  such  improvements  as  a  low  stone 
wall,  partially  to  close  the  mouth  of  the  cavern 
and  serving  as  a  protection  against  wind  and 
animals.  Mortar  is  never  used  in  the  building 
of  this  rampart,  but  mud  sometimes  serves  in 
its  stead.  At  one  side  of  the  habitation,  under 
the  overhanging  cliff,  the  housewife  has  her 
metate,  or  flat  stone  for  grinding  maize,  the 
staple  food  of  all  Indians.  In  a  corner  or  on  a 
ledge  the  man  keeps  his  bow  and  arrows. 
Privacy  is  secured  by  the  distance  at  which  the 
next-door  neighbour  lives — some  three  or  four 
miles  away.  Tiie  cave,  with  its  level  floor, 
serves  as  parlour,  sitting-room,  and  kitchen,  and 
at  night  skins  are  spread  in  lieu  of  beds  around 
the  fire,  which  here,  as  always,  is  the  greatest 
comfort  to  i)rimitive  man. 

If  the  lord  of  the  manor  should  be  the  happy 
possessor  of  some  cattle,  sheep,  or  goats,  he  may 
build  a  corral  inside  the  cave  for  the  accom- 
modation of  the  animals,  the  safety  of  which  is 
of  greater  importance  to  him  than  his  own  ease. 
In  fact,  his  personal  comfort  is  always  secondary 


442 


IHE     WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


to  his  earthly  possessions,  and  the  only  sub- 
stantial improvement  in  the  cave  consists  in  a 
storehouse,  which  he  erects  of  stone  and  mud, 
or  of  wood.  Here  he  keeps  his  winter  supply 
of  corn,  an  e.xtra  blanket  that  the  thrifty  house- 
wife has  woven  on  her  primitive  loom,  some 
woollen  yarn  that  she  has  spun,  or  some  similar 
valuables.  Few  are  so  poor  that  all  the  family 
wealth  can  be  stored  within  the  limited  space  of 
one  such  cupboard,  and  as  a  rule  they  have 
storehouses  in  various  directions  outside  of  the 
home.  Thus  a  man's  riches  may  be  estimated 
by  the  number  of  these  queer  little  round  or 
square  structures,  sometimes  not  large  enough 


by  an  artistically  woven  girdle.  For  dignity 
rather  than  any  other  reason  the  man  may  wear 
a  poncho  around  his  shoulders  and  the  woman 
may  put  on  a  short  tunic,  and  either  of  them 
may  wrap  a  blanket  around  the  body  up  to  the 
eyes.  Mothers  make  use  of  this  typical  Indian 
garment  in  holding  their  little  ones  on  their 
backs. 

The  daily  life  of  these  people  is  full  of  quaint 
touches.  The  family  begin  to  bestir  themselves 
at  daybreak.  With  a  pine-cone  the  man  makes 
an  attempt  to  disentangle  his  raven  hair,  which 
hangs  straight  and  thick  around  his  head.  'J'he 
wife  in  the  meantime  grinds  the  corn  and  pre- 


lo  accommodate  a  good-sized  dog.  The 
most  peculiar  thing  about  them  is  that 
they  have  neither  lock  nor  key.  They 
are  closed  with  a  board  plastered 
against  the  wall  with  piud  ;  anyone 
might  with  ease  remove  it,  but  in 
[jfimitive  society  there  seems  to  exist  a 
higher  regard  for  mcum  and  tuuin  than  among 
more  advanced  people.  To  break  o[)en  a  store- 
house sealed  in  the  manner  indicated  is  con- 
sidered the  most  heinous  crime  ;  and  let  me 
record  it  here  that  the  unsophisticated  Tara- 
humare,  before  he  "  learns  better"  from  the  wily 
whites,  never  cheats  at  bargains. 

The  people,  living  in  a  style  and  manner 
that  was  outgrown  tjy  ICuropeans  thousands  of 
years  ago,  are  a  hearty,  healthy,  and  by  no 
means  unintrlligcnt  race.  In  colour  they  are 
light  chocolate  brown.  The  climate  necessitates 
but  little  clothing.  When  at  home  the  men  are 
satisfied  with  a  brecrh-cloth,  the  women  with  a 
skirt  of  cotton-cloth,  held  up  around  the  waist 


A   TYPICAL    CAVE-DWEI.LING — OBSERVE   THE   STORE- 

From  a\       house  on  the  right.  [Phoio. 


pares  the  indispensable  tortillas  (corn-cakes), 
roasting  them  dexterously  in  a  shallow  earthen- 
ware dish  placed  on  the  glowing  cinders.  In  a 
gourd  bowl  she  stirs  some  corn  meal  and  water 
with  a  flavouring  of  herbs  as  a  drink,  and  in  a 
jar  placed  on  three  small  stones  some  beans 
may  be  boiling.  A  favourite  food  with  the 
Tarahun)ares  is  mice.  They  are  so  fond  of  these 
little  animals  that  "  civilized  "  Tarahumares  have 
been  known  to  ask  Mexicans  for  permission  to 
enter  their  houses  in  order  to  hunt  for  mice  ;  but 
the  main  supply  is  secured  by  means  of  in- 
geniously constructed  traps  that  testify  to  the 
mechanical  gift  inherent  in  the  tribe.  In  pre- 
paring the  "game"  for  the  table  the  animals 
are  skinned,  the  little  carcasses  being  threaded 


IHK    CAVE-DWELLERS    OF    MEXICO. 


443 


alongside  of  one  another  on  a  wooden  spit  and 
grilled  before  the  fire.  So  close  to  the  hearts  of 
the  people  are  these  little  rodents  that  among 
women  the  most  admired  are  those  who  have 
"eyes  like  a  mouse." 

The  morning  meal  over,  the  man  takes  his 
bow  and  arrows  and  goes  out  on  a  day's  hunt. 
He  also  takes  his  axe  along  with  him,  to  use  in 
case  he  may  be  lucky  enough  to  find  a  squirrel. 
This  kind  of  game  is  not  hunted  in  the  way 
that  would  seem  to  us  the  most  simple — bring- 
ing it  down  with  an  arrow.  The  Tarahumare 
considers  an  arrow  too  valuable  to  waste  in  this 
way.  So  he  starts  to  chop  down  the  tree,  and 
expects  his  dogs  to  help  him  catch  the  squirrel 
when  the  tree  falls  !  But  the  creature  is  very 
agile  and  may  escape  to  another  tree,  in  which 
case  the  patient  hunter  goes  to  work  to  cut 
down  tree  number  two.  In  this  way  he  may 
have  to  fell  as  many  as  ten  trees  before  the 
quarry  is  secured.  This  accomplished,  he  feels 
compensated  for  the  day's  labour,  for  time  and 


the  daily  needs  of  a  family  and  the  gathering  of 
herbs  and  roots  would  seem  a  sufficiently  large 
task.  She  has  to  mind  the  children  and  to 
make  all  her  own  pottery,  which  is  more  clumsy 
than  substantial  and  needs  constant  replenishing. 
What  little  time  is  left  her  she  spends  at  her 
loom,  weaving  girdles  and  blankets  for  the 
family.  And  the  ever-varying  designs  and 
patterns  which  she  manages  to  work  out  in  the 
coarse  home-spun,  home-dyed  woollen  yarn  are 
eloquent  expressions  of  the  innate  artistic  sense 
of  the  race. 

When  I  first  came  among  these  strange 
people  it  looked  for  a  time  as  if  I  should  never 
be  able  to  establish  friendly  relations  with  them. 
They  are  naturally  distrustful  of  strangers,  and 
an  unfortunate  event  rendered  the  task  of  gain- 
ing their  confidence  almost  hopeless.  From  an 
ancient  burial-place  we  had  taken  some  skulls, 
which  had  been  left  lying  outside  my  tent 
until  we  could  pack  them.  A  native  whom  we 
had  engaged  to  show  us  the  way  over  the  high- 


.  ^  ..'^«"JBi»«' 


l-'>\lllcl\  1  Al;.\HL.-,]AKt;    INDIANS    AT     HOMi:. 


\  I' koto. 


work  have  no  fixed  value  in  his  mind.  The  wife 
is  most  appreciative  and  well-satisfied  with 
whatever  the  husband  brings  home.  After 
cleaning  it  and  scraping  the  hair  off  she  boils  it, 
leaving  the  skin  on,  in  order  not  to  waste  any 
nourishment. 

The  Indian  woman's  work  is  by  no  means 
confined  to  tlie  preparation  of  the  meals,  though 
the  grinding  of  the  quantities  of  corn  required  by 


lands  had  his  own  peculiar  ideas  about  the 
presence  of  these  uncanny  relics,  until  finally 
at  du.sk,  while  he  was  eating  his  supper,  some- 
thing startled  him,  and,  leaving  supper,  blanket, 
and  all  behind,  he  ran  away  never  to  be  seen  by 
us  again.  But  we  soon  found  to  our  sorrow 
that  the  interpretations  he  put  on  what  he  had 
seen  in  our  camp  were  of  the  wildest  nature. 
According  to  his  account,  we  were  nothing  less 


444 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


than  man-eaters,  and  the  skulls  of  the  victims 
of  our  cannibalistic  propensities  were  lying 
around  by  the  tents.  The  weapon  used  for 
killing  the  Tarahumares  was  the  camera,  with 
which  I  "  shot "  the  people.  While  in  our 
camp,  said  the  guide,  he  had  seen  the  jar  made 
ready  in  which  he  himself  was  to  be  boiled  for 
our  supper ! 

The  rumours  about  the  terrible  white  men 
who  subsisted  on  Tarahumare  women  and 
children  and  green  corn  spread  like  wildfire. 
Wherever  we  came  we  found  the  little  farms 
deserted,  and  women  and  children  who  caught 
sight  of  us  screaming  with  terror  and  running 
for  their  lives.  For  a  couple  of  months  I  could 
not  get  within  speaking  distance  of  the  people 
I  wanted  to  study.  But  everything  comes  to 
him  who  waits,  aiKi  to  me  it  came  from  an 
entirely  unexpected  quarter. 

There  had  been  for  a  long  time  a  most  dis- 
tressing drought  in  these  mountains.  Every 
day  the  Indians  fired  the  forest  to  make  clouds, 
believing  that  clouds  of  any  description  bring 
rain.  They  succeeded  only  in  bringing  the 
calamity  more  vividly  home  to  me,  as  they  were 
destroying  what  little  grass  the  sun  had  spared 
and  making  travel  next  to  impossible.  Finally, 
when  I  had  decided  to  start  out  alone  with  a 
coufjle  of  Mexicans  on  an  excursion  of  some 
weeks'  duration,  preferring  to  submit  to  all  sorts 
of  hardships  and  difficulties  rather  than  to 
remain  idle  any  longer,  I  was  overtaken  on  the 
first  day  of  my  trip  by  a  heavy  shower.  From 
that  day  onwards  the  showers  seemed  to  follow 
me,  not  always  in  accord  with  my  personal 
comfort,  yet  to  my  entire  satisfaction,  as  the 
Indiaris  soon  began  to  think  that  in  some 
mysterious  way  I  was  connected  with  them. 
In  this  .somewhat  dry  country  the  natives  value 
rain  more  than  anything  else  on  earth.  They 
became  anxious  to  pose  before  the  hitherto 
dreaded  camera,  which  they  began  to  look  upon 
as  a  powerful  rain-maker.  They  even  expressed 
regret  when  I  departed,  as  they  feared  I  might 
take  the  rain  with  me. 

Hut  the  story  of  the  skulls  was  by  no  means 
forgotten.  Many  months  afterwards  I  was 
taken  to  task  on  tliat  account.  My  interpreter, 
whom  I  sent  to  straighten  out  the  matter, 
volunteered  an  explanation,  which  I  am  con- 
vinced was  strictly  in  accord  with  his  own 
conviction.  It  was  to  the  effect  that  the  skulls 
had  been  dug  out  in  order  that  the  white  man 
might  see  whether  the  people  had  been  pro[)erly 
baptized  !  The  Indians  were  entirely  satisfied 
with  this  reason. 

The  roughness  of  the  country  through  which 
I  travelled  precluded  the  taking  along  of  a  large 
pack-train,  and  under  the  circumstances  civilized 


man's  provisions  soon  gave  out.  I  had  then  to 
subsist  on  what  I  could  procure  from  the 
Indians,  and  they  could  give  only  what  they 
had — corn  and  beans,  and  now  and  then  a 
sheep  or  a  goat.  The  Tarahumare  does  not 
like  to  sell  and  has  no  use  for  money.  The 
corn  was  prepared  for  consumption  in  the  ways 
known  to  the  natives,  the  simplest  being  to 
toast  the  grains  on  a  piece  of  crockery  over  the 
fire.  This  dish  tastes  well  enough  and  is  easy 
to  prepare,  especially  when  you  are  too  tired  to 
fuss  with  the  cooking.  But  the  kernels  thus 
prepared  assume  the  consistency  of  little 
pebbles,  and  on  my  return  to  civilization  I  was 
astonished  to  learn  of  the  insidious  work  they 
had  done  to  my  molars,  the  building  up  of 
which  taxed  the  ingenuity  of  American  dentistry. 

I  made  a  palatable  drink  for  myself  out  of 
honey  and  water,  and  fortunately  I  had  a  good 
supply  of  splendid  California  honey  in  tin  cans, 
which"  lasted  me  for  five  years.  The  first  thing 
after  pitching  camp  and  unsaddling  the  mules 
was  always  to  get  my  kettle  of  water  boiling,  and 
into  a  large  cupful  of  it  I  stirred  a  few  spoonfuls 
of  honey.  This  drink  was  wonderfully  refresh- 
ing after  a  hard  day's  work,  and,  what  was  still 
more  important,  it  gave  me  an  appetite  for  the 
frugal  meals  to  which  I  was  confined.  That  is 
to  say,  it  enabled  me  to  swallow  the  stuff.  To 
eat  became  a  labour  which  I  was  always  glad  to 
get  through  with,  and  I  can  remember  instances 
when,  even  with  my  honey,  I  was  obliged  to  lie 
down  and  chew  and  chew  indefinitely  until  at 
last  able  to  get  the  food  down.  Animals  may 
do  well  enough  on  a  monotonous  diet ;  but  if 
civilized  man  has  to  eat  the  same  dish  three 
times  a  day,  week  in  and  week  out,  he  will, 
after  a  month  or  so,  find  it  a  pretty  tough  job. 

Like  all  pagan  Indians  in  Mexico,  the  Tara- 
humares worship  their  gods  by  dancing,  which, 
in  diametrical  contrast  to  our  social  diversion, 
is  to  them  a  solemn  and  ceremonious  ritual, 
performed  in  the  most  earnest,  prayerful,  and 
devout  mood,  no  matter  what  impression  they 
make  upon  the  uninitiated  white  man.  The 
chief  purpose  of  all  the  worship  is  to  make  it 
rain,  and  they  implore  all  the  animals  to  help 
them  in  bringing  about  this  consummation. 
The  birds  who  sing  in  the  spring,  the  cooing 
doves,  the  croaking  frogs,  the  chirping  locusts — 
all  pray  for  the  same  thing  and  get  an  answer  in 
the  copious  summer  rains.  Everyone  partici- 
pates in  the  dance,  the  men  in  one  set  or  group, 
the  women  in  another,  to  the  singing  of  the 
medicine-man,  who  leads  the  dance,  accom- 
panying himself  with  a  gourd  rattle,  which  he 
swings  like  a  baton,  with  much  enthusiasm. 
They  dance,  as  they  express  it,  '  to  the 
cross,"  which  is  always  erected  in  front  of  the 


THE    CAVE-DWELLERS    OF    MEXICO. 


445 


cave  or  hut.  This  is  a  simple  combination  of 
a  long  upright  and  a  short  horizontal  stick, 
and  sometimes  there  may  be  two,  or  even  three, 
crosses  placed  side  by  side.  The  earliest 
records  show  that  the  Tarahumares  used  this 
symbol  long  before  the  arrival  of  the  Spaniards, 
who  were  dumfounded  at  seeing  these  heathens 
worship  a  cross,  which,  however,  has  no  Christian 
significance.  To  the  Indian  the  cross  stands 
for  the  perfect  man.  Father  Sun  ;  and  where 
there  is  a  plurality  of  crosses  they  represent 
Mother  Moon  and  her  son,  the  Morning  Star. 

The  dancing  goes  on  throughout  the  night, 
and  with  the  dawn  the  second  [)art  of  the  feast 
— but  by  no  means  secondary  in  importance — 
is  ushered  in.      Food,  and  plenty  of  it,  has  been 


make  it  strong  and  keep  it  from  getting  ill,  and 
tliroughout  his  earthly  career  tesvino  is  to  the 
Tarahumare  the  sine  qua  iion  in  all  and  every 
event.  It  is  food  and  drink  to  him  :  it  is  his 
medicine  for  internal  and  external  use ;  it  is  the 
chief  medium  sacrificed  to  propitiate  the  gods. 
As  one  'I'arahumare  friend  of  mine  put  it : 
"  The  rain  makes  the  corn  grow,  from  the  corn 
the  tesvino  is  made,  and  the  tesvino  is  used  to 
bring  on  the  rain." 

The  medicine-man  is  not  only  priest,  but 
doctor  as  well.  He  is  consulted  in  every  ill- 
ness, real  or  fancied,  and  he  effects  his  cures 
with  remedies  or  with  magic.  Once  I  deter- 
mined to  test  the  efiiciency  of  a  Tarahumare 
medicine-man's  art.     As  I  was  suffering  at  the 


From  a] 


A   GROUP   OF    HUICHOI.S,    ANOTHER    TRIBE  OK    CAVE-DWELLERS. 


{Photo. 


prepared,  and  is  now  dispatched.  It  is  against 
good  form  to  eat  much  on  the  premises  ;  the 
meat  in  its  broth,  tortillas,  beans,  etc.,  are 
handed  to  the  women,  who  fill  them  into  jars 
specially  brought  for  the  purpose,  and  take  them 
home.  The  drink,  however,  is  consumed  on  the 
spot. 

This  liquor,  known  as  tesvino,  is  a  peculiar 
home-brewed  beer  made  from  maize.  It  is  quite 
pleasant  in  taste  and  but  mildly  stimulating ; 
but  the  Indians  take  it  in  such  incredibly  large 
quantities  that  they  invariably  become  sense- 
lessly intoxicated,  and  when  they  finally  adjourn 
the  meeting  and  start  homeward  they  rarely  get 
very  far  before  they  have  to  lie  down  and  sleep 
off  the  effects  of  their  carouse. 

Tesvino  is  given  to  the  new-born   babe   to 


time  from  a  slight  cold  I  requested  one  of  them 
to  cure  me.  Of  course,  he  was  quite  ready  to 
do  this  —  for  a  consideration  —  and  told  me 
to  go  ahead  to  my  camp,  where  he  promised 
to  follow  me  immediately.  On  his  arrival  he 
asked  me  to  kneel  down.  Then  he  began  to 
scjueeze  my  head  between  his  dirty  hands,  and 
applying  his  lips  to  my  left  ear  sucked  at  it 
forcibly^  producing  a  sensation  that  can  be 
appreciated  only  by  those  who  have  been  un- 
fortunate enough  to  have  had  an  insect  in  their 
ear.  After  sucking  my  other  ear  in  a  like  manner, 
and  one  of  my  ankles,  he  spat  into  a  cup  a 
lot  of  blood  mixed  with  some  grass  seeds,  which 
he  gravely  asserted  had  been  the  cause  of  my 
illness.  The  cup  was  then  ceremoniously  taken 
away   by  my  Indian  attendant,  with  an   order  to 


446 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


bury  its  contents  that  they  might  never  return 
and,  cause  further  trouble. 

The  tribe  is  remarkably  fond  of  games  and 
sport,  especially  foot  races.  There  is  probably 
no  other  people  in  the  world  which  can  compete 
with  them  in  running,  not  so  much  in  regard  to 
speed  as  to  endurance,  for  a  Taraliumare  is  able 
to  run  continuously  from  noon  till  sunrise, 
making  a  hundred  and  seventy  miles  without 
stopping,  on  a  slow,  steady  trot !  His  propensity 
for  running  is  so  great  that  the  tribe  derives  its 
native  name  from  it.  Ralameri,  as  the  Tara- 
humares  call  them- 
selves, means  "foot- 
runners." 


a  man  owns.  In  accordance  with  the  indepen- 
dent position  of  the  woman  among  the  Mexican 
Indians,  however,  she  is  never  made  an  object 
of  gambling. 

The  women,  by  the  way,  have  foot  races  of 
their  own,  but  instead  of  tossing  a  ball  they 
throw  rings  of  yucca  fibre,  using  for  the  purpose 
sticks  slightly  bent  at  the  top. 

The    idea    of  immortality    is    very   prevalent 

among  the  Mexican  Indians,  but  they  are  afraid 

of  their  dead,  who,  they  say,  feeling  lonely  in  the 

spirit  world  and  desirous  of  having  their  friends 

and      relatives     join     them,    come 

back    and    make    them    ill.      The 

dead   also   envv   the   heirs   all    the 


IN    FRONT   OF   THE    MKN    WILL    BE    SEEN    A    CROUI'   OF 
From  d\  "  SACRED   OBJECTS." 

In  their  running  races  each  of  the  two  parties 
matched  against  the  other  has  a  wooden  ball, 
which  they  toss  ahead  while  running.  The  ball 
is  moved  onward  by  a  kick  with  the  toes  and 
must  not  be  touched  by  the  hand.  A  promi- 
nent feature  of  the  race  is  the  betting  connected 
with  it,  the  slakes  being  blankets,  bows  and 
arrows,  girdles,  coloured  handkerchiefs,  balls  of 
woollen  yarn,  etc.,  all  of  which  are  thrown  into 
one  or  two  heaps,  and  afterwards  distributed 
among  the  winning  speculators.  'I'he  victor 
himself  gets  no  material  award,  but  is  highly 
honoured.  Cattle,  too,  are  sometimes  put  up 
m  these  betting  transactions— in  fact,  everything 


good  things  they  have  left  behind.  To  pacify 
the  departed  the  surviving  members  of  the 
family  make  a  number  of  feasts  for  him  in  the 
course  of  the  first  year  after  his  demise,  giving 
him  all  the  food  and  necessaries  of  life  he  craves 
for.  After  each  feast  they  hunt  him  off  by 
throwing  ashes  and  making  speeches,  in  which 
they  emphasize  their  unwillingness  to  have  any- 
thing further  to  do  with  him.  The  Tarahumare 
make   three   feasts   for  a  man,   but   four   for  a 


THE    CAVE-DWELLERS    OF    MEXICO. 


447 


woman  ;  it  takes  more  effort  to  drive  her  away, 
as  she  does  nut  run  so  fast. 

To  the  averaire  man  all  Indians,  like  all 
"coons,"  look  alike,  but  to  the  thoughtful 
observer  different  tribes  have  different  charac- 
teristics. A  few  hundred  miles  south  of  the 
Tarahumare,  yet  still  within  the  range  of  the 
Sierra  Madre  del  Norte,  1  came  upon  another 
tribe  of  Indians  in  many  ways  unlike  them. 
These  are  the  Huichols,  who  number  about 
four  thousand  souls  and  occupy  a  section  which 
is  exceedingly  difficult  of  access  on  account  of 
the  stu[)endous  mountain  ridges  encompassing 
them  on  all  sides.  They  have  been  able  to 
adhere  to  the  customs  and  beliefs  left  them  by 
uncounted  generations,  to  such  a  degree  that 
they  are  to  day  practically  in  the  same  state  of 
development  as  they  were  when  their  relatives, 
the  Aztecs,  succumbed  to  the  fire  and  sword  of 
the  invading  .Spaniards. 

So  well   is  the  tribe  protected  by  its  natural 

fortifications  that  the 
country  was  not  con- 
quered    until      1723. 


in  temperament  they  are  different,  being  impul- 
sive, (juick-tempered,  imaginative,  and  vivacious. 
Nature  has  endowed  them  more  lavishly  than 
many  other  tribes  ;  they  are  musical,  and  have 
better  voices  than  any  of  the  aboriginals  I  have 
heard  singing.  The  women  manifest  a  high 
artistic  sense  in  the  decoration  of  their  dress,  be 
it  textile  or  embroidery  work  ;  and  what  is  still 
more  int(;resting,  though  for  the  civilized  man 
well-nigh  impossible  to  realize,  is  that  every  bit 
of  this  ornamentation  is  an  expression  of  the 
religious  sentiment  of  the  maker  or  wearer  of 
the  article,  as  each  ornament  conveys  a  distinct 
prayer.  Pagans  though  the  Huichols  are,  their 
life  from  birth  to  death  is  one  of  devotion  to 
their  deities. 

The  men  make  a  great  number  of  beautiful 
symbolic  objects,  by  which  they  express  to  the 
gods  the  wishes  and  needs  of  the  people,  and 
most  of  their  time  is  taken  up  in  this  way  and 
by  feasts  intended  to  propitiate  the  gods.  For 
the  latter  are  supposed  to  be  angry  with  man 
and  jealous  of  him  ;  they  especially  want  to 
keep    for   themselves    the    clouds,    which    the 


1 

1 

1. 

1 

1 

t 

The  impress  which  the  Franciscan  monks,  who 
followed  the  victorious  soldiers,  made  upon  the 
mountaineers  was  but  slight,  and  they  therefore 
typify  the  status  of  the  Indian  more  plainly  than 
any  other  tribe  found  nowadays  north  of  Panama. 
The  name  Huichols  (pronounced  Veetchols) 
means  healers,  or  doctors.  'I'hough  in  general 
appearance  much  resembling  the  Tarahumares, 


Huichols  are  sorely  in  need  of  for  their  agricul- 
ture. The  gods  must,  therefore,  be  appeased, 
and  the  medicine-men  know  how  to  do  this  by 
singing  epics  for  at  least  two  successive  nights 
at  each  feast,  reciting  the  ancient  deeds  of  the 
gods.  With  this  and  the  subsequent  sacrifice 
of  oxen,  etc.,  the  deities  are  pleased,  and  they 
consent  to  give  up  the  clouds  in  favour  of  the 
Huichols,  who  thus  gain  the  much-desired  rain. 
There  are  no  fewer  than  eighteen  temples   in 


44^ 


THE    WIL)E    WORLt)    MAGAZINE. 


spring  in  which  the  deity  is  supposed 
to  reside,  and  people  come  liere  at 
different  times  of  the  year  to  bathe 
their  heads.  Every  child 
born  in  the  tribe  has  to  be 
"  baptized  "  with  water  from 
a  holy  spring.  Whatever 
a  Huichol  has  on  his 
mind  he  brings  before 
the  gods  in  one  of  these 
caves,    depositing     with 


the    little    country— circular    struc- 
tures with  conical  thatched  roofs — 
and  here  the  people  gather  for  the 
feasts.     In  the  middle  of  the  temple 
the  greatest  god,  the  fire,  is  burning. 
'I"he  ceremonies  consist  mainly  of  a 
peculiar  dance  to  the  singing   of  the 
medicine-man,  who  at  times  accom- 
panies liimself  by  beating  the  native 
drum  with  his  hands.     The  temples 
have  only  one  aperture  for  the  en- 
trance and   exit  of   the  people,  but 
as  there  is  no  door  the  building  can 
never  be  closed.     In  the  vicinity  of 
the  tenjples  there  is  always  found  a 
numljer  <jf    small  oblong  houses 
whicli   serve  as  special  places  of 
devotion  for  different   gods,   and 
wliicli,     tlierefore,    may     be    fitly 
called    god-houses.     Sucii    struc- 
tures   are    also   to   be   found   at 
lonely  places  in  the  woods.      Tlie 
interior  always  presents  a  striking 
appearance    on    account    of    the 
multitude    of     strange    varicoloured     symbolic 
objects  placed   there   in   honcjur  of  tlie  special 
god  to  whoni  the  house  is  dedicated. 

In  the  Huichol  country  there  are  also  innu- 
merable sacred  caves,  where  some  deity  is 
invoked  in  much  the  same  manner  as  in  the 
god-houses.  Many  of  these  caves  owe  their 
sacred  character  to   the   presence  of  a  pool  or 


SACKliU   CAVE    IN    WHICH    A    (iOD    IS   SUPPOSED    TO    DUEI.l..  t 

From  a  Photo. 

his      prayers     some     beautiful      object     as     a 
sacrifice. 

The  holiest  of  all  the  sacred  places  in  the 
Huichol  country  is  supposed  to  be  the  residence 
of  the  God  of  Fire,  the  greatest  of  all  the 
deities,  and  several  small  houses  have  been 
erected  here  in  token  of  the  reverence  in  which 
the  people  hold  him  and  the  other  gods  who 
reside  with  him.  Here  was  also  kept  until  very 
recently  the  most  ancient  statue  of  the  God  of 
I''ire.   I  was  the  first  white  man  to  visit  the  place. 


THE    CAVE-DWELLERS    OF    MEXICO. 


449 


and  I  noticed  that  the  idol,  which  was  made  of 
tufa,  had  a  large  hole  in  the  right  side.  This 
had  been  made  by  the  people  who  came;  to  ask 
him  for  success  in  healing,  and  wlio  thought 
they  could  increase  their  powers  by  surrepti- 
tiously scraping  off  and  eating  a  few  particles  of 
the  god's  body. 

There  are  other  caves  of  much  interest  con- 
nected with  the  history  of  this  god.  In 
one  of  them  he  war,  born,  and  a  large  block 
of  volcanic  tufa  lying  in  the  middle  of  the 
cave  represents  him  as  an  infant.  A  small 
temple  has  been  erected  here  in  his  honour. 
^Fy  Huichol  guides  were,  at  my  request, 
obliging  enough  to  take  a  statue  of  the  deity 


out  of  the  temple  in  order  that  it  might  be 
photographed.  'I'he  idol  may  be  seen  in  the 
illustration. 

The  number  of  gods  which  the  pious  Huichol 
feels  called  upon  to  appease  is  not  so  great  as 
the  number  of  names  would  seem  to  imply,  as 
there  are  names  for  the  many  different  mani- 
festations of  each  deity.  They  are  all  supposed 
to  stand  around  the  horizon  of  the  country, 
listening  to  what  the  people  are  saying  and 
seeing  what  they  are  doing.  When  a  Huichol 
wants  a  favour  granted,  therefore,  he  is  not 
satisfied  with  praying  to  one  of  them,  but 
addresses  many,  "  for,"  says  he,  "  if  one  does 
not  respond,  another  one  may  !  " 


.ZIDl 


s^ 


nn\ 


THE   BIRTIIl'LACK   OF    THE   GOD   OF    FIRE. 

from  a  Photo. 


Vc4.  xL— 57c 


(( 


CALAMITY    JANE." 

A    HEROINE    OF    THE    WILD    WEST. 
I>\    W.  Ci.  Patterson. 

There  are  few  frontier  characters  who  possess  a  more  romantic  and  pathetic  history  than 
"Calamity  Jane,"  the  famous  woman-scout,  pony  express  rider,  and  Indian  fighter,  who  is  now,  by 
the  irony  of  fate,  spending  her  last  days  in  a  Wyoming  gaol.  Her  thrilling  adventures  have 
formed  the  basis  of  innumerable  "  blood-and-thunder "  stories,  and  the  full  narrative  of  her 
eventful  career  would  fill  many  volumes,  more  exciting  than  the  most  melodramatic  fiction.  Mr. 
Patterson  here  relates  a  few  of  "  Calamity's  "  exploits,  and  shows  under  what  pitiful  circumstances 
this  faithful  old  servant  of  the  State  is  now  awaiting  "  the  last  roll-call." 


I-I'"T  an  orphan  at  eight  years  of  age, 
"  Calamity  Jane,"  then  plain  Jane, 
became  the  mascot  or  "daughter  of 
the  regiment  "  of  a  devil-may-care 
.squadron  of  soldiers  in  a  frontier 
barracks.  Between  then  and  now  Jane  has 
been,  successively,  an  army  messenger,  a  frontier 
guide,  an  Indian  scout  and  mail-carrier  through 
a  hostile  country,  an  artiste  in  a  mining-camp 


she  is  to-day.  Though  "  Calamity  Jane  '  lived — 
I  use  the  past  tense,  for  her  career  is  practically 
run — an  abnormal  life,  she  seemed  somehow 
to  fit  into  it.  In  just  what  sort  of  a  "  Wild 
Western  "  play  Jane  could  be  staged  it  would  be 
difficult  to  determine  off-hand  ;  she  is  so  unusual, 
so  entirely  different  from  other  women,  good  or 
bad. 

Though  Jane  was  many  times  in  the  Montana 


l''roin  a\ 


CAI.AMnV   JAM-"    AND    HEK    FAMOUS    MARE,    BESS. 


[r/io/i\ 


variety  theatre,  a  .soldier  and  Indian  fighter  in 
male  attire,  and  a  typical,  though  feminine, 
frontier-town  "bad  man,"  riding  her  horse  into 
saloons,  shooting  the  lights  out,  and  performing 
other  ortli'xU.x  feats  in  the  most  approved 
lashion.  Then,  by  easy  steps,  as  her  age 
increased,  she  descended  the  incline  to  be  what 


town  where  I  was  residing,  it  was  never  my 
fortune  to  see  her  but  once.  Imagine  a  town 
thronged  with  well-dressed  women— for  Butte  is 
as  modish  in  these  days  as  Boston — and  then 
picture  the  bent  figure  of  a  creature  whom  you 
guess  is  a  woimu),  garbed  in  rough  gunny- 
sacking,  stamping  along  in  men's  boots.     This 


CALAMITY    JANE. 


451 


was  Jane  a  few  years  ago.  Her  hair,  grey  and 
tousled,  hung  down  over  her  brow,  and  a  cow- 
boy hat  topped  off  the  pieluresque  costume.  It 
was  on  a  cold  winter's  day  when  I  saw  the  old 
woman.  As  I  looked  through  a  front-office 
window,  Jane,  wiio  had  turned  quickly  to 
resent  some  thoughtless  gibe  from  a  lad 
across  the  way,  slipped  on  the  icy  pavement, 
and,  in  falling,  cut  an  ugly  gash  across  her 
forehead.  Several  of  us  rushed  to  her  assist- 
ance and  brought  her  inside  the  office.  Her 
real  grievance  seemed  to  be  for  the  stirring 
days  that  were  gone  ;  the  times  when  impertinent 
youngsters   held    "  Calamity    Jane's "    personal 


en  route  one  day,  when  the  command  was 
passing  through  an  especially  rough  mountain 
country,  and  at  a  moment  when  the  soldiers 
were  entering  a  deep  canyon,  walled  with 
boulders  and  stunted  pines,  they  were  cleverly 
ambushed  by  the  Indians.  One  of  the  white 
officers  was  shot  by  a  concealed  red  -  skin 
and  fell  from  his  horse,  whereupon  two  other 
painted  savages  rushed  from  their  hiding-places, 
intending  to  secure  the  fallen  man's  scalp.  At 
this  critical  juncture,  however,  the  young  girl 
scout  spurred  her  pony  forward  at  a  gallop,  pro- 
tecting herself  Indian  fashion  by  clinging  to  the 
animal's  side.     She  shot  one  red-skin  dead  as 


SHE    SHOT   ONE   RED-SKIN    DEAD. 


prowess  in  wholesome  respect ;  the  days  when 
savage  Indians,  pitted  against  a  troop  of  soldiers 
of  whom  she  was  one,  found  they  "  had  a  man 
to  deal  with,"  and  when  brave  after  brave  virent 
down  before  her  unerring  rifle. 

It  was  upon  one  such  occasion  as  this  that 
she  earned  the  sobriquet  which  clung  to  her  for 
life.  She  was  piloting  several  companies  of 
soldiers  from  the  Montana  barracks  across  the 
wild,  wolf-infested  prairies  for  a  distance  of  six 
hundred  miles  to  the  Black  Hills  country  in 
Lower  Dakota,  where  a  large  band  of  hostile 
Siou.x  were  said  to  be  besieging  the  gold-miners. 
No  more  intrepid  guide  could  have  been  found 
in  the  whole  North-West,  though  at  the  time 
Jane  was  a  girl  barely  out  of  her  teens.     While 


he  was  on  the  very  point  of  securing  his  ghastly 
trophy,  and  then,  her  horse  still  running,  reached 
down  from  her  insecure  position,  seized  the 
prostrate  soldier  from  the  ground,  and,  throwing 
the  unconscious  body  across  her  saddle,  escaped 
with  it  to  the  main  body  of  troops.  When 
the  officer  finally  recovered  consciousness  and 
learned  how  he  had  been  rescued  from  certain 
death  he  made  some  remark  about  "a  man 
being  unusually  lucky  to  have  such  heroines  as 
Jane  around  in  times  of  calamity."  The  com- 
bination of  words  and  the  remembered  circum- 
stance itself  caused  "Calamity"  to  be  added 
to  the  young  heroine's  name,  and  she  became 
"  Calamity  Jane,"  a  sobriquet  she  has  borne 
ever  since. 


45' 


THE    WIDI':    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


Jane's  real  name,  her  full  name,  is  open  to 
doubt.  A  gentleman  who  has  known  her  from 
infancy  up  has  a  dim  idea  that  her  family  name 
was  "  Marks  " — "  though  which  family,  that  of 
her  parents  or  of  one  of  her  husbands,"  he  added, 
with  a  laugh,  "  is  by  no  means  sure."  Jane's 
marital  ventures  have  been  variously  estimated 
at  from  one  to  fourteen.  An  unsigned  but  very 
graphic  biography  of  "  Calamity"  which  appeared 
recently  in  the  Helena  (Mont.)  Independent — 
which,  among  a   score   of  written   and  verbal 


Another  interesting  and  pertinent  extract  from 
this  same  authority  reads  as  follows  : — 

"  In  1875  Jane  went  as  a  scout  with  Captain 
Crook  to  the  Black  Hills,  then  an  Indian  reser- 
vation, and  not  subject  to  settlement,  to  drive 
the  (illegal)  settlers  out.  In  1876  she  was  sent 
with  important  messages  to  (General  Custer. 
This  ride  across  country  through  the  bitter  cold 
— for  it  was  dead  of  winter — almost  cost  Jane 
her  life,  and  at  the  same  time  it  probably 
saved  her,  for  it  was    only  the  sickness    which 


■  Al   riiU    T]|E   INDIAN    WAKS  JANE   DROVE   THE    STAGE. 


authorities  on  the  subject  consulted  by  me  to 
lu-l|)  out  my  own  rccolleclion.s,  I  consider  the 
most  concise  and  interesting— has  this  to  say  as 
to  "  Calamity's  "  marriages  :  "  If  she  had  a  sur- 
name (and  she  had  more  than  a  dozen,  for  she 
lias  been  married  time  and  again)  she  would 
not  acknowledge  it.  It  is  a  singular  fact  that, 
while  Jane  has  fought  in  manv  battles  without 
a  wound  and  braver!  many  dangers,  every  one  of 
her  twelve  husbands  met  a  violent  death,  and 
that,  too,  soon  after  marriage.  It  was  a  by- 
word at  one  time  in  Montana  that  the  man  who 
marru-d  Jane  married  certain  'calamity.'" 


followed  that  prevented  her  being  present  at  the 
fatal  Custer  engagement. 

"After  the  Indian  wars  Jane  took  to  carry- 
ing mails  for  the  Government.  She  drove  stage 
and  waggon  trains,  she  served  her  time  as  a 
cattle-puncher,  and  she  was  in  every  posse  that 
went  out  after  a  desperado.  She  lived  for  many 
years  in  Deadwood,  which  was  the  '  toughest ' 
town  in  the  Black  Hills,  and  for  a  time  she 
carried  the  mail  between  DeadtVood  and  Custer 
City. 

"  'Calamity  Jane  '  was  as  keen  in  a  luiiit  after 
criminals    as    she    was    when    on    the    Indians' 


"CALAMITY    JANE." 


453 


trails.  She  was  in  ihc  |)arly  that  went  after  the 
notorious  Jack  McCall.  It  was  she,  moreover, 
who  caught  the  man.  She  cornered  him  in  a 
meat-shop,  and,  cleaver  in  hand,  made  him 
surrender.  Everybody  knows,  more  or  less, 
of  '  Calamity  Jane,'  who  is  the  last  of  the 
old  Indian  fighters  and  army  scouts.  She 
deserves  recognition  for  being  the  bravest 
and  the  pluckiest  and  the  wildest  of  them 
all." 

As  I  ga/ed  on  the  grotesque  and  decrepit 
form  of  "  Calamity  " 
that  day  when  she 
fell  on  the  ii-e  in  the 
streets  of  Dutte,  I 
could  not  help  com- 
[)aring  the  wretched 
creature  before  me — ■ 
whose  wounded  fore- 
head a  kind-hearted 
w  Oman  employe 
was  tenderly  bathing 
—  with  a  picture  1 
had  seen  of  her 
twenty  years  earlier, 
as  the  saucy  -  faced 
"  soubrette  "  of  a 
frontier  dance  -  hall, 
bespangled  and  be- 
diamonded. 

This  unfortunate 
woman  undoubtedly 
possessed  great  force 
of  character,  together 
with  inherent  energy 
and  wonderful 
bravery.  Had  she 
been  reared  amid 
favourable  surround- 
ings, and  not  thrown 
{practically  upon  her 
own  resources  while 
the  merest  child  into 
the  [)robably  well- 
intentioned  and  kind- 
hearted  but  incom- 
petent protection  of 
a  company  of  soldiers 
i  n  a  n  u  n  s  e  1 1 1  e  d 
country,  the  chances  are  that  she  would  have 
grown  up  a  splendid  woman. 

With  all  her  callousness  and  more  recently 
dissipated  life,  "  Calamity  "  recognised  the  fact 
that  she  was  a  social  outcast.  She  had  one 
child,  a  daughter,  whom  she  had  educated 
"back  East."  Upon  this  daughter  she  never 
intruded  herself.  She  kept  her  in  an  Eastern 
State  all  her  life ;  and  while  her  affection  for 
her   child    was   great,    she    never   allowed   her 


From  a\ 


"calamity  jank"  in  female  costu.me. 


daughter  to  know  just  how  degraded  a  mother 
she  possessed. 

To  Mr.  George  Martz,  the  night  overseer  at 
the  Helena  gaol,  and  to  a  number  of  prominent 
Butte  gentlemen,  all  of  whom  had  known,  or 
heard  of,  "  Calamity  Jane  "  in  early  days,  and 
all  of  whom  had  a  word  of  regret  for  the  poor 
woman's  approaching  end,  I  am  also  indebted 
for  information.  Each  man  had  one  or  more 
anecdotes  to  tell  in  which  Jane  figured.  To 
economize  space  I  will  not  attempt  to  classify 

this  information,  but 
treat  it  as  history. 
In  the  Montana  Post, 
an  early  -  day  news- 
paper, I  also  found 
pertinent  items. 

For  a  number  of 
years  I  had  lost  sight 
of  "Calamity."  The 
last  word  I  heard  of 
her  was  in  the  year 
of  the  pan-American 
Exposition  (i  900-1), 
in  Buffalo,  N.Y.  This 
was  to  the  effect  that 
some  alleged  "char- 
itable "  society  had 
added  Jane  to  the 
big  show,  in  a  way 
which  was  to  put  the 
old  lady  in  Easy 
Street  for  the  rest  of 
her  days.  I  find 
now,  in  the  Indepen- 
dent sketch,  a  state- 
ment that  Jane's  so- 
called  benefactors 
were  suspected  by 
their  protegee  to  be 
reaping  the  greater 
part  of  the  money 
accruing  from  her 
personal  exhibition 
at  the  fair.  Moreover, 
poor  "Calamity" 
mourned  for  her  wild 
mountain  home,  the 
locality  where  there 
was  "  room  for  an  old  woman  to  breathe."' 

Buffalo  Bill  (Colonel  Wm.  F.  Cody,  of  "Wild 
West "  fame)  chanced  to  visit  the  exposition. 
Jane  espied  him  when  he  stepped  from  the 
cars.  Knowing  him  well,  as  she  knew  and  was 
known  by  every  prominent  Westerner,  she  im- 
mediately approached  him. 

"They've  got  me  buffaloed,"  said  "Calamity" 
to  the  famous  ex-scout.  "  I  want  to  go  back. 
There's  no  place  for  me  in  the  East.     Stake  me 


[Photo. 


454 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


for  a  railroad  ticket  and  the  price  of  the  meals 
and  send  me  home." 

"  After  this  fashion,"  continues  the  biography 
mentioned,  "Jane  got  back  to  Livingston, 
Montana,  in  September,  1901.  She  made  a 
round  of  the  town  with  tears  in  her  eyes,  and 
over  and  over  again  expressed  her  joy  at  being 
'  home '  again." 

The  next  public  mention  of  this  wonderful 
but  unfortunate  woman  was  the  announcement 
that  she  had,  in  some  half-demented  return  to 
the  old   days,  under- 
taken to  "shoot  up" 
the  town  of  Cheyenne, 
which  sad  error   had 
landed  her  in  duress. 

There  is  something 
of  tragedy  in  the 
account  given  me  by 
a  city  night  gaol-guard 
(for  gaols  have  been 
Jane's  retreats  during 
these  later  years  of 
her  life)  of  his  experi 
eiice  with  the  old  lady 
during  a  recent  so- 
journ in  his  hostelry. 

"She  was  very  ill 
indeed,"  said  my  in- 
formant, "  and  I  actu- 
ally feared,  when  she 
came  ambling  in 
through  the  corridor 
and  announced  that 
she'd  come  for  a 
night's  lodging,  that 
she  would  never  leave 
the  building  excei)t  in 
:i  coffin.  Slie  was  as 
shaky  as  a  person  with 
ague,  and  her  face  was 
as  white  as  a  ghost's. 
She  was  going  to  re- 
form, she  said,  if  she 
recovered,  and  go 
back  ICast,  after 
'  bracing  her  ward- 
robe '  and  '  corralling  her  old  grey  locks,'  and 
pass  the  balance  of  her  days  in  respectability 
with  her  'little  gal.' 

"  Well,  the  matron  got  her  to  bed  in  the 
women's  ward,  and  having  a  full  house  that 
night,  and  being  accustomed  to  Jane's  visits,  I 
soon  forgot  all  about  her. 

"  About  a  couple  of  hours  after  midnight, 
however,  as  I  sat  reading  over  the  day's  log,  a 
loud  screech  from  the  upper  tier,  where  flie 
women's  cells  are,  brought  me  out  of  my  chair. 
I'm  accustomed   to  more  or  less  loud  noises  ir) 


CALAMITY   JANE 


the  gaol  at  night.  What  with  crazy  folks 
en  route  to  the  asylum,  drunken  Indians,  and 
our  own  crop  of  vagabonds,  it's  more  or  less  of 
a  pandemonium  the  whole  night  long. 

"  But  this  screech  was  somehow  different.  It 
had  an  unearthly  sound  ;  and  presently  the 
matron  came  hurrying  down  to  say  that  Jane 
was  taken  bad.  'She's  thinking  she's  fighting 
Indians,'  said  the  matron,  'and  I  can't  do  any- 
thing at  all  to  control  her.' 

"  So  I  went  up  there  myself,  fearing  the  old 

lady  might  do  herself 
some  injury.  She  had 
the  quilt  off  her  cot 
wrapped  about  her 
body,  and  seemed  to 
have  her  own  role 
mixed  up  with  a  rcd- 
s  k  i  n's.  She  had 
clutched  a  loosened 
round  out  of  a  chair, 
and  was  aiming  it  as 
if  it  were  a  rifle.  '  Just 
watch  me  wing  the 
red  scoundrel,  cap- 
tain,' said  Jane,  ad- 
dressing some  vision- 
ary officer  near  by. 
'  Wait  till  he  shows 
those  two  snake's 
eyes  of  his  again  over 
that  clump  of  brush. 
Why,  that's  the  villain 
who  shot  my  Bess  ! ' 
she  fairly  screamed, 
casting  her  staring, 
unseeing  eyes  about 
her,  as  though  some- 
one had  protested. 
Bess,  I  should  explain, 
was  a  bay  mare  pre- 
sented to  'Calamity  ' 
nearly  thirty  years  ago 
by  General  Crook — a 
magnificent  beast, 
which,  barring  Jane's 
daughter,  was  the  one 
thing  she  ever  really  loved.  The  mare  was  shot 
from  under  her  by  the  Sioux  in  the  Black  Hills 
country  one  day  when  Jane  was  escaping  from  a 
band  of  them,  and  she  mourned  about  it  for 
years.  Now  she  was  living  those  stirring  scenes 
all  over  again. 

"  We  finally  quieted  her  to  some  extent.  She 
hadn't  the  vitality  to  keep  that  state  of  excite- 
ment up  long.  She'd  start  to  shout  something 
good  and  brave  to  the  soldier  boys  she  thought 
were  around,  but  each  time  the  sentence  would 
dwindle  to  an  old-age  quiver.     It  was  the  first 


IN    HER    IIUCKSKIN    SCOUTING   ATTIRE. 
I'roiH  a  I'hoto. 


"CALAMITY    JANE." 


455 


time   1   had  ever  realized  how  very  near  done 
with  Hfe  poor  '  Calamity  '  was. 

"  I'm  Icllint;  you,  friend,"  said  this  speaker  to 
me  ill  conclusion,  "that  I  wasn't  finding  a  thing 
in  the  poor  old  woman's  wanderings  to  laugh  at. 
She's  been  up  against  hard  luck  the  whole  of 
her  life.  She  has  never  had  the  least  kind  of 
chance  to  be  other  than  what  she  was." 

For  a  fact,  if  anyone  could  collect  and 
arrange  in  [)roper  chronological  order  just  the 
most  thrilling  events  in  "  Calamity  Jane's  "  life  he 
would  have  material  for  a  good-sized  book.  A 
great  part  of  it  would  read  like  the  "  blood-and- 
thunder  "  literature  which  we  grown-ups  used  to 
hide  in  the  hay-mow  and  read  surreptitiously  ; 
but  it  would  possess  the  merit,  at  least,  of  being 
the  truth. 

Up  to  within  a  few  years  ago  her  life  was  full 
of  exciting  adventure  such  as  everyone  likes  to 
read  of.  As  a  mail-carrier  through  a  section  of 
what  is  now  South  Dakota,  while  she  was  riding 
at  twilight  through  a  narrow  pass  in  the  hills,  a 
mountain  cat,  or  jaguar,  leaped  off  the  bank 
above  her  head,  giving  vent  to  one  of  those 
unearthly,  hair  -  lifting  screeches  of  theirs— a 
sound  that  has  made  more  than  one  brave  man 
turn  cold  when  it  has  resounded  unexpectedly 
in  the  night.  The  jaguar  just  missed  its 
human  prey  in  its  leap,  but  landed  on 
the  shoulders  and  neck  of  the  horse.  Jane, 
instead  of  getting  frightened  and  going 
into  hysterics,  shot  the  brute  dead,  putting 
the  muzzle  of  a  six-shooter  right  into  the 
animal's  ear;  and  barring  some  ugly  claw-marks 
on  her  horse's  neck  there  was  no  harm  done. 
'I'he  stuffed  hide  of  this  identical  jaguar  was 
later  presented  to  Colonel  W.  E.  Reynolds,  of 
Ceneral  Crook's  staff,  my  informant  believed, 
if  his  memory  served  him  right. 

Upon  another  occasion,  also  when  she  was 
acting  as  mail-carrier  and  soon  after  the  en- 
counter with  the  mountain  cat,  "Calamity  "  was 
being  pursued  by  two  Sioux  warriors  one  day 
near  noon,  when  in  leaping  her  horse  across  a 
small  stream  on  the  open  plain  the  animal 
stumbled  and  broke  his  leg.  She  was  armed 
only  with  a  revolver,  which  contained  but  two 
cartridges.  The  red-skins  set  up  a  wild  howl  of 
delight  at  her  misfortune,  and  spurred  their 
ponies  forward  at  a  dead  run  ;  but  Jane,  as 
coolly  as  she  used  to  "  call  a  bluff"  in  a  poker 
game,  first  mercifully  emptied  one  of  the  two 
loaded  barrels  of  her  weapon  into  the  brain  of 
her  wounded  horse,  to  put  him  out  of  his 
misery,  and  then  shot  the  foremost  red-skin 
through  the  head  with  the  remaining  charge, 
after  which  she  simply  scared  the  second  Sioux 
off  with  an  empty  gun  !  She  was,  unfortunately, 
entirely  out  of  cartridges,  through  an  oversight — 


something,  by  the  way,  she  was  seldom  guilty 
of— but  her  "  bluff"  answered.  She  bound  the 
Indian's  hands  across  his  back,  unassisted  ;  tied 
his  ankles  together  by  a  long  loop  under  his 
horse's  body,  using  for  the  purpose  her  own 
bridle-reins  and  the  ropes  which  held  the  mail 
sacks  on.  Then  she  marched  her  prisoner  back 
to  Deadwood  without  further  difficulty,  riding 
the  dead  Indian's  pony  herself! 

In  the  days  when,  as  a  mere  girl,  she  first 
entered  the  Government  service,  she  went  upon 
lones  )me  trips,  lasting  one  and  two  weeks,  as  a 
messenger  between  remote  army  posts.  She 
built  little  rough  shelters  to  protect  herself  at 
night — just  a  few  logs  stuck  end  up  in  the 
ground — and  often  the  timber  wolves  and 
coyotes,  and  sometimes  even  mountain  lions, 
would  come  nosing  around  so  close  that  she 
could  feel  their  hot,  foetid  breath  on  her 
face.  She  grew  so  accustomed  to  this,  how- 
ever, in  time  that,  providing  the  animals 
were  decently  quiet  in  their  investigations, 
she  paid  no  attention  to  them,  but  slept 
calmly  on. 

Without  doubt,  the  event  which  most  proved 
the  mettle  and  fearlessness  of  this  peculiarly 
gifted  but  unfortunate  woman  was  her  daring 
escape  from  Black  Elk  and  a  small  band  of  his 
companions,  which  occurred  soon  after  her 
single-handed  capture  of  the  Sioux  warrior. 

The  Indians  had  surprised  her  at  a  moment 
when  she  was  dismounted,  busily  engaged  in 
removing  a  pebble  from  her  pony's  hoof  They 
had  her  nearly  surrounded  before  she  espied 
them.  She  was  in  her  saddle,  however,  at  a 
single  bound,  and,  putting  spurs  to  the  beast, 
distanced  the  red-skins  before  they  could  hurl  a 
tomahawk  or  fire  a  shot.  An  edict  had  gone 
forth  in  the  Sioux  camp  just  before  that  Jane 
must  be  captured  at  all  costs.  She  had  shot  too 
many  braves,  escaped  too  many  ambushes, 
proved  her  intrepidity  in  too  many  ways,  to 
make  her  a  desirable  person  to  leave  longer  at 
liberty. 

Looking  back  over  her  shoulder  after  a  hard 
ride  of  several  miles,  Jane  was  as  alarmed  as  she 
ever  allowed  herself  to  be  at  personal  danger 
to  observe  that  her  pursuers  were  gaining  on  her. 
Usually  the  most  thoughtful  of  persons  with  her 
dumb  companions,  she  again  dug  the  spurs  into 
her  pony's  heaving  flanks,  and  then  bending 
low  over  his  neck — being  now  within  possible 
range  of  the  pursuers'  fire — she  managed  to 
maintain  what  proved  a  safe  distance  from  the 
howling  demons,  until  she  reached  the  cover  of 
a  small  clump  of  cottonwoods— what  Westerners 
call  a  "park."  'I'hese  trees  extended  in  an  un- 
broken mass  to  the  edge  of  a  deep  gorge,  a 
short  distance  to  the  right,  and   parallel   with 


456 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


]:  SHOT  •iiiE  UKUTE  1)|;ai). 


which  she  had  been  riding  for  miles.  With  the 
foliage  to  hide  her  movements,  Jane  quickly 
followed  the  cover  lo  the  cliff,  where,  without  a 
moment's  hesitation,  she  forced  her  tired  and 
frightened  pony  down  a  narrow  trail  to  the  bottom 
of  the  canyon,  over  a  rocky  path  which  would  have 
scarcely  furnished  secure  footiiold  to  a  Rocky 
Mountain  goat.  When  the  redskins  reached  the 
"park,"  and  "beat  it  up"  to  discover  their 
quarry,  they  were  completely  baffled.  They 
saw  ^ no   sign    of   her    on    the    broad    prairies 


beyond  the  wood,  and  yet  she  was  not  among 
the  trees.  They  were  naturally  dum founded. 
The  thought  that  any  sane  person  would 
attempt  the  perilous  descent  into  the  canyon 
never  once  occurred  to  even  those  fearless  riders 
of  the  plains. 

l'"inally,  by  accident,  a  young  brave,  .searching 
by  himself,  espied  Jane  many  hundred  feet 
down  the  precipitous  wall  of  rock,  and  shouted 
the  startling  news  to  his  comrades. 

Gathered  in  an   awe-stricken    group    at   the 


"CALAMITY    JANE/' 


45? 


THEV   SAW    THK    liUAVK    RIDER    SI.OVVLV  WORKING    HER  WAY  DOWN 
THE    KACE   OF    THE   CLIFK." 

edge  of  the  precipice  and  peering  over, 
ihey  saw  the  brave  rider  slowly  working  her  way 
down  the  face  of  the  cliff,  finally  reaching  the 
bottom  in  safety,  'i'hey  had  no  doubt  in  their 
superstitious  minds  that  she  liad  been  safe- 
guarded in  the  feat  by  the  Great  Spirit.  As  they 
looked,  they  beheld  the  pale-faced  maiden 
glance  up  and  wave  her  AVinchester  at  them  in 
defiance,  and  later  ride  slowly  down  the  canyon 


towards  her  original  destination.  This  latter 
she   finally  reached   some  three  .days   late, 
on  the  back  of  a  borrowed  "cayuse,"  her 
own    pony  having  put  a  climax    upon   his 
experiences    by   falling    dead 
under  her.     The   balance  of 
her  trip  is  a  story  of  adven- 
ture by  itself,   which  I  shall 
have  to  omit. 

"  I  knew  I  wasn't  going  to 
die  then,'"  said  "  Calamity," 
some  time  later.  "Once  a 
fortuneteller  told  me  that 
I'd  die  when  I  got  to  be 
eighty,  of  old  age.  I  always 
believe  whatever  I'm  told. 
so  I  wasn't  frightened." 

Though  the  old  woman  is 
a  number  of  years  "to  the 
good '"  of  the  octogenarian 
limit  set  her  by  the  fortune- 
teller, it  is  evident  that 
she  will  soon  answer  the  last 
roll-call. 

It  seems  pitiful  that  a 
worn-out  old  servant  of  her 
country,  and  such  a  faithful 
one  as  Jane  has  been,  can- 
not be  given  a  more  seemly 
place  to  die  in  than  a 
gloomy  prison  cell.  It  may 
be  argued  that  the  old 
scout  will  have  none  of  the 
restrictions  of  "  homes  for 
the  aged  and  feeble,"  and 
this  was  undoubtedly  true 
while  she  still  possessed 
-  b  vitality.       But    to  -  day    it    is 

different.     The  fast-dimming 
eyes    might     at     least     turn 
their    last    glance    upon    the 
free,     open     skies     and     the 
broad      plains     she     loved    so     well. 
The      dying      woman's     cot      might, 
with    no   violent    exercise    of    charity 
and    conmion     humanity,    be    drawn 
tenderly    before    some    sunlit    window,     where 
there     should     be     a    vista    of     her     beloved 
mountain-sides  ;     where    she    might    draw    in 
one   last   deep    breath    of   pure   mountain   air, 
in    place     of    the    fcetid    atmosphere    of    her 
steel- barred    prison.       She    is    deserving    of    a 
kindlier  treatment  and  a  fairer  passing.      "  For- 
get the  evil  and  remember  the  good."    It  would 
be  but  a  slight  token  of  appreciation,  and,  more 
than  that,  it  would  be  the  truest  form  of  that 
charity    which    the   Good    Book    recommends. 
Poor  "  Calamity  Jane  "  ! 


Vol.  xi.— 58. 


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CapfCfioulkes,  r.£. 


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\^  "• 


-ASCENDING    THE    NIGER. 


We  have  made  arrangements  with  a  British  officer  for  an  illustrated  account  of  his  experiences  on  a 
journey  from  London  to  the  mysterious  sacred  city  of  Sokoto,  and  thence  to  Lake  Tchad.  This 
expedition,  involving  over  two  thousand  miles  of  travel  in  regions  hitherto  quite  unknown,  should 
prove  of  unique  interest,  as  the  author  was  a  member  of  the  expedition  which  penetrated  six  hundred 
miles  up  the  Niger  and  thence  marched  westward  to  Sokoto — a  city  which  had  previously  been  visited 
by  only  one  Englishman,  who  went  there  many  years  ago  in  disguise,  since  when  the  treacherous  and 
fanatical  Fulani  have  refused  the  white  man  all  access.  The  greater  portion  of  the  country  dealt 
with  is  an  absolute  terra  incognita,  being  the  hunting-ground  of  the  Tuareg,  the  Fulani,  and  the 
slave-raider.  In  this  series-the  first  detailed  account  of  the  most  important  expedition  of  recent  years 
in  Biitish  West  Africa — Captain  Foulkes  will  deal  with  the  adventures  and  episodes  of  everyday  life 
in  the  interior,  illustrating  his  descriptions  with  his  own  photographs. 


Ul\I\(j  th(;  night  that  we  lay  at 
anchor  a  little  way  above  Onicha  a 
tremendous  tornado  came  upon  us 
about  two  o'clock,  accompanied  by 
the  most  magnificent  display  of 
lightning  I  have  ever  witnessed.  Some  of  the 
flashes  seemed  to  last  for  three  or  four  seconds, 
and  Asaba,  lying  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
river,  was  brilliantly  lighted  up  at  short  intervals. 
The  deluge  of  rain  which  fell  flooded  several  of 
the  cabins  on  one  side  of  our  boat,  but  I  was 
favouraljly  placed  and  escaped  it.  I  could, 
however,  sympathize  with  the  drowned-out 
victims,  who  used  most  violent  language.  One  of 
our  fellow-passengers— an  officer  of  the  West 
African  Frontier  Force— who  was  returning 
from  leave  in  l-Jigland,  was  sleeping  on  deck, 
and  at  the  moment  of  his  rescue  he  was  found 


in  a  horizontal  position  in  the  air,  hanging 
on  desperately  to  his  mosquito  curtains, 
which  were  tied  to  the  roof  However,  after 
the  storm  passed  there  was  a  general  col- 
lection of  kit  and  a  redistribution  of  dry 
blankets,  after  which  everyone  turned  in  again. 
At  noon  we  arrived  at  Lokoja.  For  some 
miles  below  the  town  there  are  high  hills  on 
both  sides  of  the  river.  Rugged,  flat-topped, 
steep,  and  covered  with  masses  of  bare  granite, 
they  resemble  very  much  in  shape  some  of  the 
South  African  kopjes. 

Soon  we  caught  our  first  glimpse  of  the  great 
River  Benue,  which  runs  for  hundreds  of  miles 
eastwards  towards  Lake  Tchad,  and  which  at 
this  point  is  about  as  wide  as  tlic  Niger  itself 

As  we  steamed  up  to  the  wooden  high-level 
pier    we  saw  the   Kmpire,    a   stern-wheel   boat 


WITH    THE    BRITISH    TO    SOKOTO. 


459 


used  as  a  Government  yacht ;  and  the  Union 
Jack  flying  at  the  mast  informed  us  that  the 
High  Commissioner,  Sir  Frederick  Lugard,  was 
on  board. 

From  a  glance  at  the  map  Lokoja  would 
appear  to  be  an 
ideal  situation 
for  the  head- 
quarters of  Nor- 
thern Nigeria, 
placed  as  it  is  at 
the  junction  of 
the  two  great 
waterways  which 
facilitate  com- 
iiumication  be- 
tween it  and  the 
outer  world  to 
the  south,  and 
also  with  the 
eastern  and  nor- 
thern extremities 
of  the  Colony. 
As   a   matter  of 


Front  d\ 


fact,   it    was   for 
some    time    the 

centre  of  Government,  but  the  place  has  now 
been  abandoned  in  favour  of  Zungeru,  a  site  on 
the  Kaduna  River,  which  joins  the  Niger  one 
hundred  and  fifty  miles  higher  up.  Lokoja  is 
not  considered  sufficiently  far  to  tlie  north,  nor 
has  it  the  reputation 
of  being  particu- 
larly healthy  ;  never- 
theless the  new 
site  for  head-quarters 
seems  to  be  univer- 
sally unpopular  in 
the  Colony. 

The  officers'  mess 
at  Lokoja  has,  as  it 
would  be  easy  to 
imagine,  many  curi- 
ous African  war  tro- 
phies, such  as  spears, 
barbed  and  poisoned 
arrows,  etc.,  and  in 
front  of  the  building, 
on  either  side  of  the 
entrance,  stand  two 
brass  muzzle  -  load- 
ing  rifled  guns 
w  h  i  c  li  were  re- 
cently captured 
from  the  natives  in 
action  at  Vola,  far  up  the  Benue. 

It  is  possible  that,  as  is  said,  these  guns  were 
manufactured  in  the  country,  but,  if  so,  how 
such  words  as  "Toulouse,"  "  Douai,"  and  the 


THE    HIGH    COMMISSIONERS    YACHT    "EMPIRE, 


Napoleonic  crest  happened  to  be  cast  on  them 

must  always  remain  a  mystery. 

Lokoja  is  an   important   military  centre,  one 

battalion  of  troops  having  its  head-quarters  here. 

The  native  artillery  company  is  armed  with  the 

7-pounder  moun- 
tain  gun,  but 
some  good  75- 
millimetre 
breech  -  loading 
guns  have  lately 
been  received, 
which  I  saw  do 
some  excellent 
practice  shooting 
on  the  river- 
bank  one  morn- 


ing. The  com- 
pany is  well 
drilled,  and  the 
ca  r  r  i  e  r  s — the 
guns  and  car- 
riages take  to 
pieces  for  man- 
transport  —  are 
trained  to  remain 


[PJwio. 


IR   SsiisSftj- ■,_43|BH^;?i"Lj^ilWB^^^*^^^^^^^^*^^ 

L|4F^>tfciT'-''f- 

\^,mmm 

DI.U    IIKASS    NAl'OLEONIC   GUN    CAl'TUKK 

Front  a  I 


under  cover  in  rear  of  the  battery  when  the 
latter  is  in  action,  and  come  up  on  the  word  of 
command,  with  no  confusion,  and  sling  and 
take  up  their  loads  ready  to  march  away. 

The  native  drum  and  fife  band  also  gives  a 

very  creditable  per- 
formance, though  it 
seems  rather  incon- 
gruous to  see  these 
stalwart  blacks 
marching  to,  say,  the 
inspiring  strains  of 
"The  Girl  I  Left 
Behind  Me." 

Another  photo, 
shows  the  "  Waffs," 
as  they  are  called,  on 
parade.  These  are 
the  troops  who  after- 
wards occupied  Kano 
and  Sokoto. 

Altogether  military 
life  in  Lokoja  com- 
pares very  favourably 
with  many  other 
stations  one  could 
mention,  though 
some  of  the  "  bush  " 
detach  m  e  n  t  s  up 
country  are  hard  put  to  it  at  times  for  amuse- 
ment and  even  for  food.  "^ 

Ponies  do  well   in   this  part  of  the  country, 
and  polo  is  played  three  times  a  week.     When 


»    FROM    THE    NATIVES   AT   YOI-A. 


460 


tHE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZmE. 


I 


Fronf  a\ 


TUli   NATIVE   AUTII.UliHY    BATIEKV    AT    ['RACTICK   ON    THE    RIVER-BANK. 


\_Pkoto. 


we  were  at  Lokoja  a  gymkhana  was  held  on  the 
polo  ground,  when  good  sport  was  provided 
for  the  men,  who  took  great  interest  in  the 
proceedings. 

One  of  the  photographs  reproduced  shows  a 
"  bucket  race  "  about  to  commence. 

'lowards  the  end  (jf  our  stay  in  I.okoja  con- 


firmation was  received  of  rumours  which  had 
previously  been  current  to  the  effect  that  a  big 
military  expedition  was  being  arranged  to  start 
for  Kano  and  Sokoto. 

It  was  now  stated  definitely  that  a  force  was 
to  be  concentrated  at  head-quarters  at  Zungeru 
against  Kano,  and  that  three  hundred  men  were 


Ai:r.   rill-;   iKcioi'S  WHO  aftkkwakds  captured  kano  am.     -i.  .1, 
/•I  1)111  u  I' ho  to. 


Willi      lilE    BRITISH     rO    SOKOTO. 


461 


From  a\ 


COMPETITORS   LINED   UP    FOK    THE    "BUCKET    KACE"    AT   THE   LOKOJA   (.i  um 


to  be  taken  from  Lokoja.  Naturally  this  pro- 
duced considerable  bustle,  the  preparations 
being  on  a  much  larger  scale  than  in  the  case  of 
any  previous  "war  palaver"  in  this  country. 
Some  hundreds  of  Hausa  carriers  were  engaged, 
and  the  R.A.  "  millimetre  "  battery  was  detailed 
to  leave  Lokoja  in  advance  of  the  remainder  of 
the  contingent. 


The   Hausas   make   excellent  carriers, 


being 


bazaar  at  Lokoja  to  the  effect  that  the  Argungu 
garrison  had  been  attacked  by  the  Emperor  of 
Sokoto  and  had  been  annihilated. 

This  was,  of  course,  not  believed,  but  it  was 
of  some  interest  to  our  party,  as  this  was  the 
force  from  which  we  hoped  to  draw  an  escort 
on  our  arrival  near  Sokoto.  News  also  arrived 
that  Zaria,  a  military  station  strongly  held,  was 
being  threatened   from   the  direction  of  Kano, 


MIHMll^HMii 


/■  l-:'r!   .IJ 


ENKOI.l.ING   CAUHIKKS    KOK    TllK    EXI'EIJITION    TO    KANO. 


^Phota. 


Sturdy  and  possessing  great  staying  powers, 
They  are  enrolled  in  gangs  under  a  headman, 
and  each  answers  to  a  name  and  has,  in  addition, 
a  brass  identification  ticket  given  him.  The 
accompanying  photo,  shows  a  number  of  these 
carriers  being  enrolled  at  Lokoja. 

A  startling  rumour  was  brought  in  from  the 


and  that  the  expedition  was  to  advance  first  to 
the  relief  of  this  place.  So  it  was  in  anticipa- 
tion of  stirring  events  as  well  as  of  novel 
experiences  that  we  finally  left  Lokoja  for  the 
north  in  the  Niger  Company's  stern-wheel  boat 
jX^  Kissi. 

On  the  evening  of  our  first  day's  steaming  we 


462 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


stuck  fast  on  a  sand-bank  and  spent  the  night 
there. 

The  river  had  fallen  nearly  twenty  feet  at 
Lokoja  since  our  arrival,  and  now  sand-banks 
were  to  be  seen  everywhere.  On  these  flocks 
of  geese,  cranes,  and  pelicans  rested,  and 
greyish-green  crocodiles  basked  in  the  sun,  open- 
mouthed.  For  the  last-named  we  kept  a  sharp 
look-out  all  day,  and  shot  at  them  whenever 
an  opportunity  occurred.  Looking  through  field- 
glasses  one  could  see  these  horrible  monsters 
sleeping  at  full  length  at  the  water's  edge,  secure 
in  the  dread  in  which  they  are  held  by  the 
natives.  Then  all  of  a  sudden  a  volley  from 
three  or  four  rifles  would  ring  out  from  the 
steamer,  the  water  was  splashed  up  in  two  or 
three  places,  and  the  crocodile  woke  up,  jerked 
his  hideous  head  towards  us  for  a  moment,  and 
then  suddenly  wriggled  into  the  river  with  a 
movement  or  two  of  his  tail.  A  few  seconds 
later  a  low,  dark  line  would  be  visible  on  the 
surface  of  the  water  a  little  distance  ofi",  which 
would  at  once  disappear  on  another  shot  being 
fired. 

At  this  time  of  year  the  portion  of  the 
Niger  in  which  we  now  were  is  bordered  with 
vast  flat  plains  overgrown  with  long  grass  and 
rushes,  which  at  high  water  must  be  covered 
several   feet   deep.     Hills  are  found   for  some 


TMK    KIVKK-UANK.S   AIU. 

/•rout  a\ 


j,\i\y     lAl.LINf;     IN — THE     NATIVK 
TIIKIK   COURSE    KKOM    THE   AIIEAHANCE   Of    THE    WATER. 


distance  up  similar  to  those  at  Lokoja— flat- 
topped  and  rocky,  with  trees  growing  on  them 
in  tufts,  like  the  wool  on  a  negro's  head. 

Thf;    banks   of   the   river  "are   of   sand   and 
verti.  -y  are  continually  falling  in,  and  the 


debris  at  their  foot  is  an  indication  of  the 
rapidity  with  which  the  river  alters  its  course, 
and  of  the  constant  changes  that  are  taking 
place  in  its  bed.  In  fact,  the  pilots  do  not 
shape  their  course  from  charts  or  from  memory, 
but  merely  judge  it  from  the  appearance  of  the 
surface  of  the  water. 

On  the  low  banks  and  on  recently  exposed 
sandy  islands  we  steamed  by  many  temporar)' 
settlements  of  natives,  who,  passing  up  and 
down  in  their  canoes,  put  up  little  mat  shelters 
in  which  to  spend  the  night. 

We  stopped  at  the  regular  wooding  stations 
as  we  proceeded  along  the  Niger,  in  order  to 
replenish  our  fuel.  Short  logs  are  carried  on 
board  in  deep  wicker  baskets  by  employes  of  the 
Niger  Company.  Numbers  of  women  and  girls 
— old  and  young — jostle  each  other  over  the 
narrow  planks  that  are  thrown  from  the  boat  to 
the  bank  ;  and  the  chattering  and  laughter,  with 
the  terrified  screams  of  the  little  ones  when 
they  are  pushed  aside  into  the  shallow  water, 
produce  a  babel  of  sounds  that  is  the  necessary 
accompaniment  of  every  typical  African  scene. 

Wood  fuel  serves  its  purpose  sufficiently  well, 
but  it  is  productive  of  showers  of  sparks  which 
burn  everything  hung  up  on  the  deck-rail,  or  even 
standing  well  within  it.  Towards  dusk  these 
lumps  of  glowing  charcoal  produce  a  very  pretty 

effect,  trailing  on  either  side 
of  the  steamer  and  also  well 
behind  it. 

Farther  up  river  our 
engines  broke  down  and  we 
had  to  be  taken  in  tow  by 
the  N'Doni,  a  sister  boat 
to  ours.  In  this  way  we 
steamed  for  two  days,  pass- 
ing the  large  villages  of 
Shonga  and  Rabba.  We 
also  grounded  several  times 
on  hidden  sand-banks.  As 
we  approached  Jebba  rocks 
l)ecame  visible  for  the  first 
time  on  the  banks  and  in 
the  river  itself,  and  we  soon 
came  in  view  of  hills  nearly 
a  thousand  feet  high,  tower- 
ing directly  over  the  river. 

At  Jebba  we  disembarked 
with  all  our  belongings,  as 
the  navigation  is  dangerous 
above  this  point,  and  the 
remainder  of  our  long 
journey  was  to  be  accomplished  in  canoes. 
Jebba  is  a  very  considerable  native  town  on 
the  direct  route  between  Ilorin,  on  the  west  of 
the  Niger,  and  Kano,  the  great  Hausa  trade 
centre  on  the  east.     It  consists  of  four  distinct 


ril.OTS     JUDGE 

V'hoto. 


WITH    THE    BRITISH    TO    SOKOTO. 


463 


parts,  two  of  which  are  built  on  opposite  sides 
of  tiie  river  anci  tiie  other  two  on  either  side  of 
an  intervening  island.  It  is  called  Port  Ilorin, 
and  the  scene  at  the  landing-place  is  a  very  busy 
one.  In  former  days,  when  this  was  the  head- 
([uarters  of  Northern  Nigeria,  there  must  have 
been  still  more  movement  and  water  traffic. 
Now  that  nearly  all  the  luiropeans  have  left  the 
place,  little  is  landed  excepting  native  trade 
goods,  the  chief  article  imported  being  salt,  in 
bags. 

I  took  a  photo,  of  the  natives  landing  this 
salt.  Every  man,  woman,  or  child  carrying  a 
l)ag  of  salt  from  the  steamer  to  the  Niger 
Com[)any's  depot  close  by  receives  as  payment 
t'.velve    cowrie   shells.       A   man  can   carry    two 


or  so  voracious  as  those  at  Lokoja,  where  it  is 
almost  impossible  on  their  account  to  sit  down 
to  a  card  tal)le  after  dinner. 

After  a  few  days'  stay  we  left  Jebba  and 
entered  upon  the  final  stage  of  our  river 
journey,  which  had  to  be  done  in  canoes. 

Although  vessels  have  steamed  higher  up  the 
river  than  Jebba — as  far  as  Leaba,  in  fact — the 
navigation  is  very  dangerous,  owing  to  rocks, 
and  the  journey  is  never  now  attempted.  ]'"or 
some  time  before  our  arrival  steps  had  l>een 
taken  in  Jebba  to  collect  a  sufficient  number  of 
native  canoes  to  carry  all  our  stores,  and  twenty 
were  drawn  up  in  line  at  the  landing-place  by 
the  time  we  were  ready  to  go  on. 

In   other  parts   of  the   West  Coast  of  Africa 


From  a ) 


NATIVES    r.ANDING   SALT    AT   JEliRA^THEY    R^:CEIVE   T\Vp;Ll'E    COWRIK   SHELLS    PER    UAC 


\rhoto. 


bags  at  a  time,  but  the  little  girls  stagger  along 
half-  hidden  under  one,  supremely  happy  in 
their  gradually  increasing  store  of  cowries. 

Three  hundred  cowries  are  valued  at  one 
shilling,  so  employers  have  no  reason  to 
grumble  at  the  price  of  labour  here.  Official 
Jebba  is  now  in  a  state  of  dismantlement. 

There  is  only  a  small  detachment  of  soldiers 
here  now,  which  will  probably  be  replaced 
shortly  by  police. 

The  bungalows  on  the  hill,  including  the  old 
Government  House,  are  being  taken  to  pieces 
to  be  shipped  off  to  Zungeru,  and  the  place  has 
in  consecjuence  a  very  deserted  appearance. 
Mosquitoes  are  more  numerous  than  on  the 
river  itself,  but  they  are  not  nearly  so  plentiful 


canoes  are  often  met  with  built  up  with  ])lanks, 
and  fitted  with  mats  for  sa.ling  ;  but  these 
canoes  were  all  "  dug-outs,"  hollowed  out  of  a 
single  tree-trunk.  Sometimes  an  end  is  added 
or  a  perfectly  serviceable  patch  made  by  fasten- 
ing extra  pieces  to  the  main  body  of  the  canoe 
with  iron  staples  of  nati\e  manufacture. 

The  canoes,  of  course,  vary  very  much  in 
shape,  length,  and  breadth  :  they  generally  have 
square  ends  and  flat  bottoms,  and  some  have  a 
distinct  curve  in  them  !  A  [^\s  are  forty  or  fifty 
feet  long  and  four  feet  wide,  but  these  are 
exceptional. 

A  certain  amount  of  caulking  had  to  be  done 
in  our  canoes  before  the  loads  were  distributed 
in  them  according  to  their  bulk  and  value.     It 


464 


THE    WIDE    WORLD-  MAGAZINE. 


/■'rmii  a\ 

was  fortunate  that  these  preHminary  precautions 
were  taken,  as  more  than  one  accident  occurred. ' 
subsequently,  and  the  ascent  of  the  river  proved,.; 
to  be  really  dangerous  in  places.    When  the  word., 
was  finally  given  to  start  all  the  canoes  pushe^ 
off  together,  the  native  pole-men  jabbering  aw^ay 
to  each  other  as  is  their  wont,  and  shouting  out 
farewells  to  their  wives  and  friends  on  shore. 

It  was  a  singular  spectacle,  seen  from  behind, 
this  fleet  of  canoes  stretched  out  in  a  long  pro- 
cession hugging  the  bank,  a  forest  of  poles 
being  wielded  in  the  air  in  all  sorts  of  ways  and 
at  all  angles. 

'I'wo  men  work  the  smaller  canoes,  one  stand- 
ing in  the  bow  and  the  other  in  the  stern  ;  each 
is  armed  with  a  light  pole  twelve  or  fifteen 
feet  long,  and  also  with  a  paddle. 

The  current  is  too  strong  in  most  places  to 
allow  of  canoes  a.scending  in  mid-stream,  and 
poling  is  almost  entirely  resorted  to. 

('anoes  in  consequence  have  to  skirt  along 
the  banks,  the  iium  finding  purchase  for  their 
poles  when  possible  in  the  bottom  of  the  river. 
Sometimes  projecting  and  overhanging  branches 
arc  made  use  of,  or  the  dc/>ris  of  half-sunk  trees. 

In  places,  too,  where  the  current  is  very 
strong  twigs  or  reeds  arc  seized  by  which  the 
canoes  are  pulled  along  by  hand,  the  man  in  the 
stern  assisting  with  his  paddle  and  helping  to 
maintain  the  direction.  Canoeing  is  a  very  tedious 
method  of  ascending  a  rapid  river,  but  when, 
as  m  our  case,  a  large  number  of  loads  have  to 
be  conveyed  no  other  means  of  transport  is  avail- 
able, in  view  of  the  difficulty  of  collecting  any  con- 

(To  be 


\/'/u'h>. 


siderable  number  of  car- 
riers for  overland  travelling. 

Going  up  the  Niger  we 
generally  struck  camp  by 
starlight  and  moved  off  in 
the  grey  of  early  dawn, 
often  in  a  dense  mist  that 
hung  over  the  river  and 
the  low-lying  country  on 
either  side  of  it. 

Islands  are  very  numer- 
ous in  this  part  of  the 
river  ;  sometimes  they 
consist  of  huge  rocks, 
smooth  and  bare,  standing 
straight  upout  of  the  water, 
with  the  current  swirling 
round  their  flanks;  others 
are  low  clumps  of  bush, 
with  little  sandy  beaches. 

In  the  case  of  the  large 
islands  —  some  of  which 
occupy  the  greater  part 
of  the  width  of  the  river 
narrow  channels  on  either 
and  it  was  in  just  such  a 


— the  water  runs  in 

side  like  a   mill-race, 

place  that  our  first  accident  occurred. 

One  of  the  canoes — loaded,  fortunately,  only 
with  bales  of  cloth,  with  which  we  had  provided 
i'  ourselves  to  make  purchases  up  country  and  for 
presents — struck  on  a  rock,  and  while  we  were 
trying  to  get  it  off  it  turned  broadside  to  the 
current  and  immediately  capsized  and  sank. 
The  river  was  not  deep  at  this  spot,  however, 
and  the  canoe  was  soon  recovered  from  the 
bottom  and  reloaded. 

In  some  parts  of  the  river  it  is  difficult  to 
make  any  progress  at  all,  and  travelling  in  these 
unstable  craft  is  not  only  disagreeable  but  abso- 
lutely dangerous,  particularly  for  twenty  or 
thirty  miles  above  Jebba. 

Here  the  banks  are  lined  with  projecting 
trees,  which  often  stand  out  in  deep  rapid  water 
like  an  abatlis  ;  and  the  task  of  moving  forward, 
and  at  the  same  time  preventing  the  head  of 
the  canoe  from  swinging  round,  taxed  the  re- 
sources of  our  canoe-men  to  the  utmost. 

Sometimes  large,  sharp-biting  flies,  like  the 
English  horse-fly,  darted  out  from  the  bushes, 
and  immense  brown  mosquitoes,  disturbed  from 
their  resting-places  in  the  reeds,  infested  the 
canoes,  and  were  in  certain  parts  of  the  river 
an  almost  intolerable  nuisance  throughout  the 
day.  In  one  place,  too,  I  heard  the  hum  of  a 
swarm  of  bees  in  the  branches  overhead,  and 
was  very  thankful  when  we  passed  the  spot, 
having  had  a  most  unpleasant  experience  with 
African  bees  on  a  former  occasion. 
continued.) 


''mm^.4 


/iUan  H.Eiurqauqe,  fj^.e.s. 


./_^'^The    Englishman  abroad    is  apt    to  imagine    that    the 
o  '•*••■  agents  of  foreign  Powers  will  think  twice  before  laying 

violent  hands  on  him,  standing  in  awe  of  his  Govern- 
ment ;  but  the  experiences  of  the  author  and  his  companion  do  not  at  all 
bear  out  this  supposition.  Because  they  were  seen  taking  photographs 
at  the  Russian  stronghold  of  Port  Arthur  they  were  at  once  arrested  as 
spies  and  their  property  confiscated,  they  themselves  being  condemned 
to  incarceration  in  a  wretched  shed  with  some  sixty  condemned 
Chinese  murderers  !  How  they  escaped  this  terrible  fate,  which  would  have  meant  almost  certain 
death,  and  finally  got  away  from  Port  Arthur  is  here  narrated. 


T  does  not  fall  to  the  lot  of  every 
traveller  to  be  arrested  as  a  spy — at 
a  Russian  naval  stronghold  of  all 
places— and  the  following  account 
of  how  we  got  the  better  of  our 
captors  after  being  wrongly  detained  on  this 
charge  will,  [)crhaps,  interest  Wide  World 
readers. 

At  Pekin,  from  whence  we  started  on  the 
journey  that  was  to  end  in  so  strange  a  manner, 
our  passports  had  been  certified  by  Sir  Ernest 
Satow,  the  British  Minister,  to  be  ample  for 
safe  travel  in  any  land  under  the  jurisdiction 
of  Europeans  or  civilized  white  people.  We 
naturally  concluded  that  the  Russians  were  in- 
cluded in  this  category. 

Our  fust  thougiit  before  starting  was  regarding 
money,  and  to  save  trouble  later  on  we  obtained 
several  hundred  roubles  in  notes  from  a  branch 
of  the  Russo  ("hinese  Government  Bank  at 
Shanghai,  carrying  this  with  us  until  we  started 
on  our  projected  trip. 

We  left  Pekin  station  by  an  early  train  on  as 
fine  a  day  as  ever  dawned  over  China — a 
country    of    sunshine    and    azure    skies — and 

travelled  between  low-lying,  uninteresting  sand- 
Voi.  xi.— 59, 


plains  down  to  Taku,  where  we  were  to  meet 
the  train  for  Shah-hai-kwang.  As  the  day  wore 
on  the  heat  from  the  sun's  rays  increased  in 
intensity,  and  a  hot  haze  hung  over  the  yellow 
dunes,  showing  up  in  sharp  relief  the  thousands 
of  cone-shaped  graves  which  mark  the  line  of 
advance  of  the  Allies  along  the  railway  five 
years  ago.  At  Taku  we  had  some  little 
time  to  wait  and  made  a  tour  of  the  deplor- 
ably dirty  town,  or  rather  village — a  village 
with  a  greater  reputation  for  filth  than  even 
Pekin  itself. 

The  journey  to  Shan-hai-kwan,  tlie  city  on  the 
Great  Chinese  Wall,  was  fairly  uneventful,  for  up 
to  this  point  the  line  was  (at  that  time)  con- 
trolled by  the  British,  and  the  posts  of  ticket- 
collector,  guard,  and  porter  were  being  efficiently 
carried  out  by  Mr.  Thomas  Atkins,  who  seemed 
to  (|uite  enjoy  the  unusual  work.  It  [)rovided  ihem 
with  plenty  of  exercise,  too,  in  turning  out  the 
many  Celestials  who  did  not,  or  would  not, 
understand  the  necessity  for  having  a  ticket. 

At  Shan-hai-kwan  we  were  the  guests  of  the 
38th  Dogras,  who  certainly  did  us  well,  and  to 
whom  we  owe  a  debt  of  gratitude.  From  this 
military  post  onwards  the  line  is  under  Russian 


466 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


control ;  and  it  was  after  this  that  our  difificulties 
commenced.  After  passing  the  Great  Wall  the 
train  settled  down  to  a  comfortable  fifteen  to 
eighteen  miles  an  hour,  with  stops  at  stations  of 
not  more  than  two  hours  at  a  time.  The 
journey  was  instructive,  however,  as  showing  the 
difference  between 
railways    under       '  ~ 

British  and  Russian 
control.  A  two-days' 
journey  brought  us 
to  Newchuang.  Once 
across  the  river  we 
found  we  were  in- 
deed on  Russian 
soil.  Here  we  had 
our  first  ex- 
perience of 
Russian 


MR.    THOMAS    ATKINS   SEEMED   TO 
QUITE  ENJOY   THE   U.NUSUAL   WORK.' 


officialdom.  'i"o  reach  the  terminus  of  the 
Newchuang,  Dalny,  and  Port  Arthur  line  it  was 
necessary  to  take  a  launch,  and  so,  after  inquiry, 
our  baggage  was  jjlaced  aboard  a  large  vessel, 
employed  by  the  railway  company  to  meet  every 
train.  No  sooner  was  it  on  than  a  Russian 
soldier,  through  the  medium  of  a  Chinese 
interpreter,  ordered  us  to  take  it  off  again,  as 
llic  boat  was  provided  to  take  passengers  only  ; 
nothing  was  said  about  their  baggage — at  least, 
so  he  told  us.  Of  course,  we  refused,  and  he 
made  towards  our  travelling  kit  with  evident 
intent  to  put  it  ashore  himself,  and  only  on  the 
threat  of  being  given  a  gratis  bath  in  the  river 
did  he  suddenly  give  the  order  to  proceed, 
luggage  and  all.  He  reported  us  to  the  com- 
manding officer  on  arrival,  however,  and  I  feel 
convinced  that  from  that  moment  we  were 
marked  men.       At  the    station    a  new  rebuff 


awaited  us  :  when  our  tickets  had  been  made 
out  they  refused  to  accept  our  rouble  notes  in 
payment,  as  they  had  been  issued  in  China! 

In  vain  did  we  expostulate  and  point  out  that 
they  represented  Russian  money  ;  it  was  all  to 
no  purpose.  Imagine  having  a  five-pound  note 
refused  in  Ireland  because  it  had 
-' — ~~_^  "■  been  issued  in  London !  We 
turned  away  in  despair,  seeing 
no  alternative  but  to  return  to 
Taku — the  way  we  had  come — 
when  to  our  great  surprise  a  tall 
man,  speaking  in  the  best  of 
English,  politely  offered  to  lend 
us  any  money  we  needed,  nor 
would  he  take  a  refusal ;  and 
in  the  end  we  found  ourselves 
sitting  beside  Mr.  Schwob — for 
such  was  his  name — en  route 
for  Port  Arthur.  Our  benefactor 
was  a  French-Canadian,  travel- 
ling for  his  brother's  firm,  and 
throughout  that  journey  he  per- 
formed the  office  of  paymaster 
for  us.  It  would  not  be  worth 
my  while  to  give  a  detailed  ac- 
count of  this  three-days'  journey; 
suffice  it  to  say  that  for  the  maxi- 
mum of  discomfort  and  dirt,  and 
the  minimum  of  speed  and  in- 
terest, it  would  be  hard  to  beat. 

Dalny  was  passed  on  the  last 
day,  two  hours  before  reaching 
Port  Arthur,  a  fine  town  with- 
out inhabitants,  for  the  designers 
of  this  city  looked  well  to  the 
future  in  considering  its  popula- 
tion. From  Dalny  onwards  the 
country  is  very  niountainous, 
and  we  came  on  the  fine  har- 
bour of  our  destination  quite  suddenly,  after 
passing  a  deep  cutting  between  two  hills.  At 
the  station,  knowing  no  word  of  the  language, 
we  looked  about  for  someone  who  might  give 
us  aid  ;  and  again  fortune  favoured  us,  for  a 
short,  genial  man,  evidently  a  Frenchman, 
asked  whether  we  desired  to  go  to  the  hotel. 
Eh,  bien  I  that  was  just  what  we  did  want. 

Calling  a  drosky  and  a  pair-horse  trolley,  we 
saw  our  baggage  placed  on  the  latter,  and  with 
Mr.  Schwob  and  the  Frencliman— sub-manager 
of  the  hotel,  he  told  us— drove  off  down  the 
dusty  road  to  our  destination.  And  what  an 
hotel  !  Never  has  word  been  so  abused.  A 
ramshackle  shed  of  one  storey,  repaired  and 
patched ;  around  it,  built  out  on  to  rock,  half  a- 
dozen  cupboards,  yclept  bedrooms.  A  French- 
woman met  us  at  the  door  with  a  beaming  smile, 
and,  having  kennelled  our  luggage  in  the  holes 


ARRESTED    AS    SPIES. 


467 


allotted  us,  invited  us  to  satisfy  our  hunger. 
This  was  our  first  of  the  many  disgusting  so- 
called  meals  we  were  to  have  at  Port  Arthur, 
but,  having  come  to  see  the  place,  we  were  not 
disposed  to  quibble  at  culinary  trifles — if  those 
meals  could  be  called  trifles  !  After  the  repast, 
taking  our  cameras  with  us,  we  sauntered  out. 
Our  passports  had  already  been  taken  and 
vised  as  correct  and  in  order,  and  we  felt  as 
safe  as  at  home. 

The  city  would  be  a  fine  one  were  it  not  for 
the  excessive  filth  and  all-pervading  stench,  with 
a  complete  lack  of  drainage — drainage,  indeed, 
being  a  thing  almost  unknown  in  Russia  itself. 
The  streets  are  narrow,  but,  where  possible,  are 
being  widened,  and  are  in  all  cases  lined  with 
square,  open  trenches,  into  which  the  sewage  is 
run.  The  hilly  nature  of  the  country  and 
wretchedness  of  the  soil  are  chiefly  to  blame 
for  the  deplorable  state  of  these  roads,  which, 
in  dry  weather,  are  thickly  coated  with  a  grey 
pestilential  dust,  and  during  the  rainy  season 
compare  favourably  with  a  farmyard  in  the 
quality  of  their  mud  and  slush.  So  much  for 
the  town.  Its  appearance  so  disgusted  us  that 
on  the  second  day  we  decided  to  leave  the 
following  evening,  and  on  our  way  back  to  the 
hotel,  after  a  row  on  the  harbour,  booked  berths 
in  a  Japanese  steamer  for  Chefoo,  on  our  way  to 
Chemulpo. 

Then  came  the  fateful  proposition.  Behind 
the  hotel  rose  a  high  hill,  perhaps  eight 
hundred  or  nine  hundred  feet  in  elevation,  and 
situated  on  its  summit  stood  a  lighthouse. 
"  Come  along,"  I  said,  "  let  us  climb  that  hill, 
as  I  am  certain  we  shall  get  a  magnificent  view 
from  the  summit." 

"  Are  you  taking  your  camera  ? "  asked 
Hoghton.* 

"  Oh,  certainly,"  I  replied,  and  off  we  set. 
Half  an  hour's  climbing  saw  us  at  the  top,  and 
we  seated  ourselves  on  the  stone  coping  of  the 
beacon  to  gaze  in  admiration  at  the  wonderful 
panorama  spread  before  our  eyes.  Port  Arthur, 
the  Kronstadt  of  the  East,  lay  exposed  below 
us  as  on  a  contour  map.  Every  hill  seemed  to 
have  been  set  by  Nature  in  such  a  position  as 
to  aid  in  making  the  place  impregnable,  and  all 
around,  on  this  height  and  on  that,  were  giant 
forts  and  huge  batteries.  Those  facing  the  sea 
seemed  but  a  stone's  throw  away — no  more,  and 
we  watched  the  hundreds  of  workers  extending 
the  fortifications  to  left  and  right  of  the  narrow 
entrance.  The  muzzles  of  many  great  guns 
shone  in  the  sun,  and  the  tram[)  of  troops  rose 
up  from  the  barracks  on  our  left.  I'hen  I  saw 
a  long,  four-funnelled,  wicked  looking  craft  creep 

*  Mr.   C.   K.    Ho^hton   was  my   travelling  companion  for  over 
fifty-two  thousand  miles. 


out  of  the  harbour,  nd  when  clear  of  the  main 
head  stoke  up  and  gather  speed,  spurning  the 
water  into  foam  with  her  whirling  propellers. 

"  A  destroyer  at  her  trials,"  1  remarked,  and 
we  sat  down  to  watch  her  evolutions.  So 
engrossed  were  we  that  we  did  not  hear  the 
approach  of  some  men,  until  suddenly  a  stone 
rolled  and  I  turned  round  to  find  two  Cossacks 
sitting  at  my  side.  To  be  sociable  I  essayed 
conversation.  German  was  no  good,  however, 
and  French  equally  useless,  and  I  had  no 
Russian  to  try,  so  at  last  I  said  to  my  com- 
panion : — ■ 

"  We'll  go  down  now,  but  I'll  take  a  few  snap- 
shots first."  Suiting  the  action  to  the  word,  I 
took  the  most  interesting  views  I  could  see,  with, 
I  must  confess,  scant  thought  as  to  whether  I 
should  get  fortifications  in  as  well.  That  I  was 
doing  wrong  never  occurred  to  me.  Then  we 
turned  to  descend. 

One  of  the  men  touched  me  on  the  shoulder 
and  interrogatively  said  "Ingleese?  " 

"  Yes,"  I  nodded,  and  then  noticed  that  his 
companion  had  disappeared,  and  that  there  was 
much  shouting  and  ringing  of  bells  in  the 
lighthouse,  from  which  he  presently  emerged. 

He  had,  we  discovered  later,  been  telephon- 
ing to  the  police.  Starting  down  the  hill,  the 
Cossack  beckoned  us  to  follow  him.  This  we 
did,  still  unsuspecting.  At  the  hotel  he 
surprised  us  by  coming  in  as  well,  and  going 
straight  to  the  manager  talked  volubly  for  a  few 
minutes.  We  saw  the  good  man  start,  and  then 
he  said  in  French  : — - 

"This  soldier  has  been  ordered  by  telephone 
to  take  you  to  the  police-station ;  you  have 
been  caught  in  the  act  of  spying  I  " 

Our  first  impulse  was  to  roar  with  laughter, 
but  the  troubled  face  of  the  Frenchman  let  us 
know  only  too  plainly  how  serious  the  matter 
really  was.  The  manageress  then  joined  in  and 
threatened  a  scene. 

"  Mon  Dieu  I  mon  Dieu !  what  have  you 
done  ?  Oh,  the  good  name  of  my  house,  of 
myself!     I  am  ruined,  I  am  betrayed  !  "  etc. 

She  quite  took  it  for  granted,  apparently,  that 
we  were  spies. 

Then  Schwob  entered,  and  we  asked  his 
advice.  He  took  the  matter  most  solemnly, 
and  we  began  to  feel  somewhat  uneasy. 

"  This  is  a  most  serious  matter,  my  friends," 
he  said.  "One  never  knows  how  they  may  take 
it;  and  as  there  are  no  Consuls  here  you  have 
no  one  to  whom  you  can  appeal.  At  all  events, 
you  must  go  to  the  prison  and  face  the  music." 

A  policeman  now  came  up,  evidently  sent  to 
meet  us,  and  we  were  ordered  to  step  into  a 
drosky  waiting  outside,  our  two  guards  coming 
with  us.     The  drive  to  the  prison  was  long,  and 


468 


THE    WIDE    WORLD     MAG/iZINE. 


the  presence  of  our  captors  made  us  objects  of 
great  interest  to  all  the  passers-by.  We  dis- 
covered later  that  even  in  that  short  time  the 
"  capture  of  two  British  spies "  had  already 
been  noised  abroad. 

At  last  a  solid,  bleak,  greystone  building 
came  in  sight,  obviously  the  prison,  and  in  a  few 
minutes  we  were  driving  through  the  gates  up  to 
the  entrance.  A  crowd  of  uniformed  men  stood 
round  waiting  our  arrival,  and  as  we  got  out  at 
the  steps  a  gruff-looking,  bearded  sergeant  came 
forward  and  queried  in  German  :— 
"  Sie  sprechen  Deutsch,  Herren  ?  " 
"  Yes,"  I  answered  in  the  same  tongue,  and, 
with  Hoghton,  followed  him  in.  After  going 
down  several  passages  we  at  last  found  ourselves 
in  a   large  room.     Sitting  behind  a  deal  table 


papers,  money,  letters,  keys — and  we  were  left 
paupers,  save  for  our  clothes.  At  last  the 
examiner  seemed  satisfied,  and,  rising,  went  into 
an  inner  room  to  the  commander  of  the  prison, 
we  being  given  chairs  to  sit  down  and  wait 
outside. 

After  a  few  minutes  the  old  sergeant  com- 
menced a  conversation  with  us. 

"This  is  a  bad  thing  you  have  done,  gentle- 
men ;  I  fear  me  you  will  have  to  go  into  the 
dark  !  "  (meaning  prison). 

I  told  him  we  were  sorry,  and  that  we  had  no 
idea  we  were  doing  wrong.  Having  once  started 
a  conversation  I  was  soon  in  the  thick  of  a  long 
account  of  our  travels,  from  which  topic  we  got 
on  to  Germany. 

"  How  is  it,"  I   said,   "  that  you  speak  such 
excellent  German  ?  " 

I  am  German,"  he  replied,  to  my 
astonishment,  and  straightway  I  saw  a 
possible  chance  of  escape  ;  by  gaining  this 


"tHK   "lEKOKAST  ORIIKRF.D   SHAKI'LV  :    '  I'UT   YOUR    CAMICKA 
DOWN  ;   BMIOY  VOUR  fOCKETS.'" 

was  an  officer,  a  clerk  furnished  with  writing 
materials  being  on  each  side  of  him.  We 
approached  the  tabh;,  a  row  of  soldiers  closing 
in  behind  us,  and  the  sergeant  who  had  met  us 
ordered  shar[)ly  : — 

"  I'ut  your  camera  (If)wn  ;  emjjty  your  pockets 
on  the  table— (everything." 

i  his  done,  lie  commenced  a  cross-examina- 
tion that  went  into  hours,  and  with  which  I  will 
not  weary  my  readers.  As  each  fjuestion  was 
answered,  so  did  our  interlocutor  translate  the 
reply  for  the  benefit  of  the  officer  and  clerks. 
Everything    but    our    clothes    was    removed- 


man's  friendship  we  might  at  least  avoid  im- 
prisonment. So  I  trilked  of  his  home,  his  wife 
and  children — of  which  he  had  two — of  how 
fond  I  was  of  Germans,  of  the  sagacity  of 
their  Emperor  and  the  kindness  of  the  nation 
as  a  whole,  of  their  friendship  for  England,  etc., 
until  he  suddenly  stopped  me  and  said  :  — 

"  Gentlemen,  I  am  sure  of  your  innocence, 
and  I  will  do  what  I  can  ;  they  will  never  dare 
throw  you  into  prison,  as  there  are  between  fifty 
and  sixty  Chinese  there,  awaiting  execution  for 
murders  and  dacoity  around  the  city." 


ARRESTED    AS    SPIES. 


469 


A    lANoKAMlC    \H- \\      Ol        1111-;      M:U       KIWX,      VtMiV     A  K  T 1 1 1' K  —  II       WAS      rill;. .11, II      SN  A  I'SI  lOTTl  NG     THIS     AMI     MIIIKN     I'.P  :!■>    m 

From  ii\  IN  ii-;Ki:sr  .shown  in    rufc;  ACCo.M^'A^^  inl,   inu  iugkaihs    ihat   iiiic  authok  was  aijkes,  i  liu.  {I'lioto. 


This  was  very  cheering,  and  after  so  good  a 
beginning  we  were  soon  on  excellent  terms  with 
our  erstwhile  enemy.  At  last  the  lieutenant 
came  out  again  and  gave  a  long  order  to  the 
German,  whose  face  grew  more  and  more  glum 
as  he  proceeded.  Turning  to  us,  he  held  up  a 
long  sheet  of  closely-written  paper  and  said  : — 

"  This  is  what  I  expected,  gentlemen  ;  it  is  an 


dangerous.  "  For,"  the  prisoners  argue,  "we  can't 
be  more  than  killed,  and  we  might  as  well  die 
for  ten  murders  as  one."  My  readers  will 
therefore  understand  why  we  dreaded  incarcera- 
tion in  the  common  prison.  We  would  as  soon 
have  entered  a  corral  of  wild  elephants. 

Prisons  in  the  East  are  not  divided  into  cells, 
but  are  merely  walled  and  roofed  dens,  with  one 


•     ^  -.-^ 

i.. 

-  '^^•||B9 

1^ 

mm. 

t3            ••  .«**>*^J 

&„-.:    ■     -   -^if 

.;  j-«=;!ta5^ 

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>g*iLafe9fck»^ 

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'M 

^^^b^^^^ 

_^                 '-^ 

^r^J^ 

^  «■    ■"*.' 

^'^^^^ 

,  ","'■  :  :.  ■  '■•'   ^-  .-' 

From  a\ 


THE    HARBOUR   OK    l-OKT    ARTHUR. 


[JVioto. 


order  to  throw  you  into  prison  with  the  Chinese 
— it  is  the  only  prison  we  have  !  " 

Now,  I  had  often  read  in  books  of  men  getting 
cold  shivers  down  their  spines  and  of  the  lips 
becoming  dry  at  the  thought  of  some  particu- 
larly unpleasant  ordeal,  but  had  never  per- 
sonally experienced  such  feelings  until  the 
sergeant  told  us  of  our  fate.  The  mere  fact 
of  prison  would  not  have 
moved  us  — •  indeed,  we 
would  rather  have  liked 
to  have  seen  the  interior 
of  a  Russian  lock-up  for 
a  short  time  ;  but  with 
three  -  score  condemned 
Chinese  murderers  ready 
to  take  vengeance  on  any 
white  man  they  could  lay 
hands  on,  as  being  instru- 
mental in  bringing  about 
their  death,  the  matter  was 
quite  different.  I  have 
been  in  Chinese  prisons, 
and  remember  my  visits 
with  disgust  and  Icjathing 
—  they  are  revoltingly 
filthy,  and  to  white  men 
such  visits  are   decidedly 


opening,  closed  by  heavy  iron  gates,  outside 
which  stand  the  guards.  They  are  never  cleaned, 
and  have  no  sanitary  conveniences.  Into  such 
an  inferno  we  were  now  to  be  thrown  ! 

There  seemed  no  way  out  of  it,  however,  and 
we  prepared  to  face  the  inevitable.  For  a  few 
brief  moments  the  German  stood,  looking  first 
at    us    and    then    at    the    officer.       Seeing    his 


THE    IIUILDING   ON    THE 

Front  a] 


RIGHT    IS    THE    COUKT-HOUSR   WHERE   THE    AUTHOR   AND    HIS 

FRIEND    WERE   TRIED.  \PllotO, 


47° 


THE   WIDE   WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


hesitation  the  latter  started  forward,  and  in  an 
angry  voice  asked  him  (the  meaning  was 
obvious,  though  we  could  not  understand  it) 
why  he  did  not  execute  his  order. 

"  Cientlcmen,  I  won't  do  it  ;  the  responsibility 
shall  rest  with  someone  else,"  he  said  to  me  in 
fierman  ;  and  then,  drawing  himself  up  to  the 
salute,  his  heels  coming  together  with  a  true 
military  click,  he  told  the  ofificer  of  his  deter- 
mination. The  mean,  bearded  face  of  this  petty 
tyrant  became  in  an  instant  convulsed  with 
ungovernable  rage,  and  for  a  moment  we 
dreaded  what  the  result  might  be. 

Our  benefactor  stood  stolid  and  unmoved 
before  the  flow  of  abuse  levelled  at  him,  and  at 
last,  grasping  the  fact  that  all  his  energy  was 
being  wasted,  the  lieutenant  stamped  off  to  his 
commanding  officer. 

Vou  can  imagine  how  surprised  we  were  at 
all  this.  How  was  it,  we  argued,  that  this 
sergeant  dared  to  disobey  the  orders  of  his 
superior?  Why  was  he  himself  not  immediately 
placed  under  arrest  for  insubordination  ?  Not 
until  afterwards  did  we  know  the  reason,  and  it 
was  this.  In  Russia  there  exists  a  great  and 
insu|)crable  jealousy  between  the  police  and  the 
military,  and  the-  civil  force  never  loses  an 
opportunity  of  showing  that  it  is  not  subservient 
t<»  the  soldiery.  The  same  type  of  jealousy  is 
to  be  found  in  Oermany  and  even  in  France, 
but  it  can  only  be  seen  in  its  worst  form  on 
the  colonial  stations  of  those  Powers.     It 


THE  SERGEANT   MAUr  A  SYSTEMATIC   SEARCH. 


was  owing  to  one  of  these  many  differences  of 
opinion  that  we  escaped  as  we  did.  The  sergeant 
was  of  the  police,  the  officer  of  the  army,  and,  the 
German  being  in  command  for  the  day,  the 
officer  could  exercise  none  of  the  authority 
which  would  have  been  his  in  the  case  of  a 
sergeant  in  his  own  service. 

We  were  not  kept  long  in  suspense  as  to  what 
was  to  become  of  us ;  two  minutes  had  scarcely 
elapsed  ere  a  fat,  bearded,  and  unkempt  man 
strode  violently  up  to  our  saviour  and  they  were 
soon  involved  in  a  heated  altercation,  the  new- 
comer getting  more  and  more  angry,  the  other, 
however,  keeping  reserved  and  cool.  We 
watched  the  verbal  duel  with  some  amusement, 
and  noticed  that  the  ire  of  the  corpulent  officer 
was  calming  down  before  the  quiet  logic  of  the 
sergeant  of  police.  To  make  a  long  story 
short,  they  decided  to  compromise,  and  allowed 
us,  after  giving  a  written  parole,  to  return  to  our 
hotel  under  escort.  The  good  sergeant,  who 
was  one  of  the  two  who  accompanied  us,  asked 
for  my  trunks  and  boxes,  and  with  the  help  of 
a  soldier  made  a  systematic  search  of  these, 
taking  all  books,  papers,  letters,  and  photo- 
graphic   plates    he    came    across.       By    some 

wonderful    fortune 
'■■  he     only     secured 

half-a-dozen  unex- 
posed boxes,  and 
left  (through  an 
oversight)  those  I 
had  taken  of  Port 
Arthur,  some  of 
which  are  here  re- 
produced. ^Vith  a 
caution  not  to  go 
outside  the  house, 
our  guards  finally 
left  us,  and  said  we 
should  hear  furtlier 
about  the  matter 
on  the  morrow. 
That  evening  we 

met      K y,      a 

Russo-English  stu- 
dent, undergoing  a 
three  years'  exile 
for  becoming  in- 
volved in  three 
political  affaires. 
Interested  in  our 
story,  he  offered  to 
be  our  advocate — 
this  being  his 
natural  calling.  As 
he  spoke  both 
Russian  and  Eng- 
lish equally  fluently, 


ARRESTED    AS    SPIES. 


471 


From  a\ 


THE    AKSENAI,    AND    MAIN    FORT,    TORT   ART 


\Photo. 


we  gladly   fell  in    with   his  proposal.     We  also 
held  a  meeting,  at  which  the  French  manager, 

Schwob,   and  K y  were  present,  to  decide 

what  should  be  done  in  the  event  of  our  being 
incarcerated.     And  this  is  what  we  decided. 

If  at  the  next  trial  we  were  imprisoned,  each 
of  the  three  would  dispatch  a  separate  cable  to 
the  British  Minister  in  St.  Petersburg,  to  Lord 
Lansdowne,  and  to  our  respective  fathers. 
Some  at  least  of  these  would  get  through. 
There  are  two  cables,  and  neither,  luckily, 
is  under  Russian  control. 

The  next  morning  at  about  nine-thirty  a 
soldier  called  round  to  say  that  a  special  naval 
court  had  been  convened  for  five  that  day. 
When  five  o'clock  arrived  our  old  friend  the 
German  came  personally  to  conduct  us  to  the 
court-house,  K — • — y  accompanying  us  this  time. 
Arrived  at  the  court,  we  found  three  naval 
officers  sitting  behind  a  high  desk,  all  our  papers, 
plates,  and  [)araj)hernalia  before  them.  The 
cross-examination   of  tiie  day  before  was   again 

gone  through,   K y  doing  the  interpreting. 

We  put  forward  our  case  in  this  manner  :  "  If," 
we  said,  "  you  do  anything  to  us  our  friends  will 
cable  to  Europe,  and  the  matter  will  speedily 
become  an  international  affair.  If,  on  the  other 
hand,  we  ore  not  guilty,  you  must  return  us  all 
our  belongings  unharmed,  recoup  us  for  lost 
passage,  broken  plates,  cab-fares,  etc.,  and  finally 
beg  our  pardons  for  this  unwarrantable  de- 
tention." 

I  saw  the  president's  face  broaden  into  a 
wide  smile  of  amusement  as  our  problem  was 
translated  to  him  ;  all  three  embarked  on  a  pro- 


longed discussion,  and  at 
last  we  were  told  : — 

"  We  find  you  not  guilty 
of  spying,  but  guilty  of 
taking  photographs.  As, 
however,  there  are  no 
Piotices  up  to  warn  you  in 
this  respect,  you  arecleared 
of  blame  from  that  also  : 
but  though  convinced  of 
vour  innocence  we  cannot 
acquit  you,  since  we  have 
only  been  given  power  to 
administer  punishment. 
We  have,  therefore,  no 
alternative  but  to  adjourn 
the  court." 

Amused  with  the  turn 
affairs  had  taken,  we  made 
ready  to  go,  when  the  three 
officers — who  were  gentle- 
men, which  is  more  than 
can  be  said  of  our  first 
accusers — came  down  to 
us  and  in  excellent  French  made  friendly  incjuiries 
relative  to  our  trip.  After  a  pleasant  half-hour's 
chat  we  shook  hands  and  left. 

Early  the  following  morning  a  young  civil 
officer,  secretary  to  the  Governor,  asked  to  see 
me,  and  going  out  I  found  him  with  all  our 
plates  (exposed  and  useless)  and  everything  that 
had  been  taken  from  us.  In  excellent  English 
— he  was,  strange  to  state,  the  only  official  at 
Port  Arthur  who  could  speak  our  tongue — he 
told  us  that,  although  a  council  had  been  sitting 
all  night,  they  could  not  come  to  any  decision 
on  our  case,  and  he  had,  therefore,  come  to  beg 
us  to  leave  the  country  as  quickly  as  we  could. 

That  evening  we  shipped  aboard  a  Russian 
steamer  for  Chefoo  ;  and  thence  went  to  Kobe, 
where  on  developing  my  Port  Arthur  plates  I 
was  delighted  to  find  that  they  were  excellent. 
We  had  suffered  some  inconvenience,  it  is  true  ; 
private  letters  of  introduction  to  influential  men 
in  Japan,  the  United  States,  and  Mexico  had 
been  ruthlessly  torn  open  ;  the  bindings  of  my 
books  had  been  broken  by  rough  handling,  and 
our  berths  to  Chefoo  had  been  lost,  to  say 
nothing  of  numerous  other  inconveniences  which 
it  is  unnecessary  to  particularize. 

Personally,  I  contracted  at  Port  Arthur  a 
dangerous  illness,  and  but  for  prompt  shipment 
to  tiie  recuperative  climate  of  Japan  my  bones 
would  now  be  resting  quietly  in  China.  The 
exi)erience  is  one  that  I  would  not  care  to  go 
through  a  second  time,  and  I  doubt,  if  so 
unpleasant  a  contingency  were  to  arise  again, 
whether  we  should  get  off  quite  so  cheaply  as 
we  did  on  this  occasion. 


When  Niagara  Ran  Dry. 


By  Orrin  E.  Dunlap. 


An    account,    by  an   eye-witness,  of  an    unprecedented   incident    in    the    history   of  the    great    cataract. 

Through   an   ice-jam   higher  up  the  river  the  water  was  diverted   from  the  American  Fall,  and  people 

were  able  to  walk  dry-shod  where  for  untold  centuries  the  mighty  flood  has  swept  along  with  irresistible 

force.     The  photographs  of  this  unique  spectacle  will  be  found  particularly  interesting. 


O  one  who  knows  the  mighty  torrent 
ot  water  that  pours  down  from  Lake 
Erie  through  the  two  channels  to 
the  Falls  of  Niagara  would  ever 
imagine  that  a  day  might  come 
when  they  would  be  permitted  to  view  the  dry 
river-bed  and  walk  at  leisure  over  the  rocky  reefs 
only  a  few  hundred  feet  back  from  the  great 
waterfall.  For  untold  centuries  this  enormous 
flood  of  water  has  been  rushing  and  plunging 
along  towards  Niagara,  creating  a  spectacle 
that  niankind  has  viewed  with  wonder  and  awe. 
The  terrific  volume  of  water  that  dashes 
between  the  two  countries  in  a  tumultuous 
flood  has  such  a  magnificent  power  in  its  every 
movement  that  it  is  almost  beyond  the  con- 
ception of  man  that  it  could  be  stopped  long 
enough  for  him  to  look  upon  the  strange  forma- 
tion of  the  bed  of  the  stream.  And  yet  this 
has  happened  recently. 

It  must  not  be  overhjoked  in  this  connection 
that  history  records  how  on  March  29th,  1848, 
fifty  five  years  ago,  there  was  a  shallowness 
about  the  river  above  the  Falls  of  Niagara  that 
'  'Msed  many  to  wonder.  It  is  said  to  have 
n  the  result  of  an  ice-jam  that  formed  at  the 
river's  entrance  at  IJlack  Rock,  near  IJuffalo  ; 
lull,  truth  to  tell,  old  residents  of  Niagara  have 
but  little  recollection  of  the  event.  While  it 
may  have  occurred,  and  probably  did  occur, 
tent,  the  reporter  was  not  there  with 

>■  '■     ' '  "'t'- "camera  fiend  "  did  not 

I'.ordfor  the  appearance  of  Niagara 

at  that  time.     For  this  reason  information  is  all 
too  meagre  about  the  incident  of  1848. 


Not  so,  however,  concerning  the  wonderful 
phenomenon  that  occurred  at  Niagara  on  March 
22nd,  1903.  On  the  evening  of  the  previous  day 
it  was  observed  by  men  working  about  the 
banks  that  the  river's  flow  appeared  to  be  lessen- 
ing in  volume.  Why  this  should  be  so  no  one 
at  the  time  knew.  On  Sunday  morning,  March 
22nd,  however,  the  amazing  discovery  was  made 
that  under  cover  of  night  the  river  had  practi- 
cally run  dry,  so  far  as  the  channel  between  the 
New  York  mainland  and  (Joat  Island  was  con- 
cerned. Investigation  revealed  that  a  mighty 
jam  of  ice  existed  on  the  reefs  at  the  head  of 
(joat  Island,  reaching  all  the  way  across  the 
American  channel  to  the  mainland  shore.  This 
had  the  effect  of  shutting  off  the  greater  part  of 
the  flow  of  the  river  between  the  points  referred 
to,  diverting  all  the  water  into  the  Canadian 
.channel,  to  go  over  the  Horseshoe  Fall. 

During  the  time  this  unique  stale  of  affairs 
lasted  the  appearance  of  the  river-bed  was 
remarkable.  A  wonderful  change  had  been 
wrought.  Where  only  a  few  hours  before  a 
mighty  torrent  had  plunged — had  been  plunging 
for  centuries  untold  —  children  raced  and 
romped  and  men  and  women  strolled  about, 
as  though  the  river-bed  had  been  made  a  por- 
tion of  the  beautiful  free  pnrk.  It  was  utterly 
impossible  to  conceive  that  the  awful  flood  had 
been  temporarily  diverted.  Everybody  mar- 
velled at  the  spectacle— a  spectacle,  so  far  as  is 
known,  that  has  never  before  been  looked  upon 
by  human  eyes.  The  river-bed  had  been  full 
of  ice  at  times,  and  the  ice  had  made  it  possible 
to  go  into  strange  and  unexpected  places;  but 


WHEN    NIAGARA    RAN    DRV. 


■173 


Fro: 


•nili    UAl'lDS   OF    NIAGARA    Al    ulcuiNAUV     1I..U..-^. 


to  have  the  torrent  diverted  to  such  an  extent 
that  a  person  could  actually  walk  dry-shod  in 
midstream,  over  reef  after  reef,  was  an  experi- 
ence so  thoroughly  novel  that  a  big  crowd 
hurried  to  the  river  to  enjoy  it. 

What  little  water  made  its  way  through  the 


huddled  masses  of  ice  found  a  course  down  to 
the  American  Fall  close  along  the  American 
shore.  Its  \uluinc  was  insignificant  as  com- 
pared with  the  normal  flow  of  the  big  river. 
People  walked  across  the  bridge  to  Green 
Island,    marvelling  at   the   unwonted   spectacle. 


Front  a] 
Vol.  xi.-60. 


THE  SAME   VIEW    WHEN   THl. 


[/■/u'W. 


474 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


From  the  shore  of  Green  Island  they  stepped 
out  upon  the  dry  river-bed  and  strolled  here  and 
there  about  the  rocks.  Not  one  of  them  had 
ever  in  their  wildest  dreams  expected  to  enjoy  a 
promenade  on  that  spot.  Standing  on  the  reefs, 
they  recalled  the  irresistible  rush  of  the  waters 
when  the  river  was  following  its  accustomed 
route,  and  they  wondered  with   a  fearful  thrill 


an  adventure  they  can  never  expect  to  repeat. 
If  man  were  to  attempt  to  create  a  similar 
spectacle  by  diverting  the  waters,  it  would 
require  .an  expenditure  of  many  millions  and 
then  might  prove  a  failure.  But  the  compara- 
tively small  cakes  of  ice  floating  down  from 
Lake  Erie  had  gathered  in  such  quantities  as  to 
conquer  the   mighty  river's   flow,  and   mankind 


rKOPlJE   WANDERING   ABOUT   IN   THE    RIVER-BEO — "TllliV   WONDKKKD   WHAT    WOUI-O    HAl'PEN    SUDUl.l)    I  HE   JAM    SLr)DRNI.V   OIVE    WAV. 

J'roin  a  Photo. 


wiial  would  JKippcn  should  llie  jam  suddenly 
give  way  and  ihe  waters  resume  their  [ilunge 
towards  the  gorge. 

The  author  is  a  life  long  resident  of  Niagara, 
but  had  never  thought  to  look  upon  such  a 
remarkable  spectacle  as  that  viewed  on  this 
occasion.  No  human  being  could  ever  have 
anticipated  l)eing  able  to  wander  about  those 
water  worn  rocks,  over  whi(  h  iht;  ujjper  rapids 
of  the  Niagara  toss  so  tumultuously,  fascinating 
all  by  tlieir  wild  beauty.  And  oh  !  what  a 
searching  for  souvenirs  there  was  !  ICvery 
crevice,  every  depression,  the  two  little  islets 
named  Ship  and  IJrig,  which  stand  out  in  the 
ra[)ifls  above  the  island  bridges,  were  searched 
for  relics.  Men  with  crowbars  actually  broke 
out  pieces  of  the  river-bed  to  carry  away  as 
mementos  of  the  rare  event,  for  no  one  could 
ever  hope  to  stand  on  those  rocks  again. 

For  each  and  every  one  there  that  day  it  was 


was  afforded  a  spectacle  never  before  witnessed. 
No  river  in  the  world,  surely,  could  afford  such 
a  strange  adventure  as  this.  Here,  only  a  few 
hundred  feet  back  from  the  brink  of  the 
American  Fall,  people  were  enjoying  an  outing 
dry-shod  in  mid-stream.  To  have  the  oppor- 
tunity to  enjoy  such  a  unique  experience  as  this 
made  one  feel  more  than  lucky. 

When  the  flow  of  the  Niagara  River  is  normal 
the  American  Fall  presents  one  of  the  most 
sublime  spectacles  to  be  witnessed  at  any  point 
in  the  world.  The  dash  of  the  water  as  it 
sweeps  over  the  brink  is  tremendous,  and  as  it 
falls  upon  the  rocky  talus  below  its  fury  is 
indescribably  magnificent.  On  March  22nd, 
however,  there  was  only  just  enough  water 
passing  over'  the  Fall  to  hide  the  calaroct's 
shame.  It  formed  a  thin  curtain  hanging  limp 
and  lifeless  over  the  brink,  and  made  the 
spectators  wonder  where  the  glory  of    Niagara 


WHEN    NIAGARA    RAN     DRV. 


475 


had  gone.  It 
had  certainly 
vanished  com- 
pletely for  the 
time  being,  and 
those  who  had 
been  fa  miliar 
with  the  great 
cataract  for 
many,  many 
years  almost 
felt  like  crving 
over  the  pitiful 
sight  it  pre- 
sented. Let  it 
be  recorded 
that,  for  one 
day  at  least, 
Niagara  was 
not  great  —  at 
least,  not  the 
American  Fall. 
There  are  "off 
days  "  in  the 
lives  of  hu- 
manity, and  so 
it  was  with  this 
spectacle  of 
Nature.  But 
just  think  of 
the  Falls  of 
Niagara  going 
out  of  business 


THE   NORMAL    AITEAKANCE   OF   THE   AMERICAN    FAI.I.   OF    NIAGARA — COMPARE     IHIS 

From  a]  with  the  next  photograph.  yPhoto. 


for  even  a 
single  day! 
Streams  of  less 
v(jiume,streams 
of  less  vigour 
may  do  this, 
but  of  Niagara 
such  a  thing  is 
not  expected. 
Ever  since  the 
white  man  first 
looked  upon 
the  great  water- 
fall it  has  been 
constant  in  its 
flow  — until  this 
sorry  day, 
March  22nd. 

A  splendid 
V  i  e  w  w  a  s 
afforded  of  the 
great  rocks  at 
the  base  of  the 
Fall.  Those 
who  saw  them 
realized  that 
there  is  little 
wonder  w  h  y 
the  bodies  of 
people  who 
pass  over  the 
cataract  at  cer- 
tain points  are 


this    REM.\i.!.\,      ].     ,11  '.KAIH     SHOWS    WHAT     HAPl'ENEI)    WHEN     NIAG\F;A     "kaV    IlKV  " — "  THERE    WAS    ONLY  JUST   ENOUGH 

WATER    PASSING   OVER     HIE    FALL    TO    HIDE   THE   CATARACTS    SHAME.       THOSE    WHO    HAD    BEEN     l-AMILIAR    WITH    IT    FOR    YEARS 

FELT   LIKE   CRYING   OVER    THE    PITIFUL   SIGHT    IT    PRESENTED." 


476 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


never  recovered.  The  mammolh  limestone 
blocks  must  tear  a  human  body  to  pieces  long 
before  it  has  any  opportunity  of  reaching  the 
water  of  the  lower  river. 

The  sheet  of  water  which  usually  hides  the 
"Cave  of  the  Winds "  was  on  March  22nd 
diminished  to  less  than  the  flow  of  a  slender 
creek.     There  was  no  wild  rush  of  water,  only  a 


tion  Police,  who  had  had  an  anxious  time,  that 
when  morning  dawned  the  river  would  have 
attained  its  normal  condition,  and  that  the 
water  would  once  more  seek  its  accustomed 
channel. 

Some  time  during  Sunday  night  the  great 
jam  gave  way,  and  by  morning  the  waters  were 
once  again  rushing  impetuously  over  the  reefs 


IIV    MUKMN>;   THE    WATBKS   WEKE   ONCE   AOAIN    RUSHING    IMPETUOUSLY   OVER   THE    REEFS,    WHERE   THOUSANDS   HAD 
WANDERED   AT   WILL    LESS   THAN   TWENTY-FOUR    HOURS    BEFORE.       NIAGARA   WAS    ITSELF    AGAIN  !  "  « 

Frotti  a  Photo. 


trickling  over  the  Itriiik  of  a  thin,  insignificant 
streamlet. 

This  remarkable  c<>iiditi(;n  of  Niagara  lasted 
throughout  the  day.  During  Sunday  afternoon 
the  crowd  in  the  river-bed  was  so  great  that 
the  State  Reservation  officials  became  seriou.sly 
alarmed  for  their  safety,  fearing  that  the  i(  c  jam 
might  break.  When  night  fell  and  everyone 
had  come  in  from  the  river-bed  it  was  the  fervent 
prayer  of  Superintendent  Terry,  of  the  Reserva- 


and  rocks,  where  thousands  had  wandered  at 
will  less  than  twenty-four  hours  before.  Niagara 
was  itself  again  ! 

Since  then  the  river  has  been  on  its  good 
behaviour,  and  is  expected  to  flow  on  for  ages 
to  come.  Possibly  never  again  will  the  river-bed 
be  trodden  by  human  feet.  In  any  case  the 
event  I  have  described  will  go  down  in  history 
as  a  wonderful  incident  in  the  career  of  the 
world-famed  waterfoll. 


^s*^ 


CHMAN 


MY   VOYAGE    WITH    THE    LAST   OF   THE   SEAL-PIRATES. 

Ijv  Roger  Pocock. 

"  Claiming  five  nationalities,  and  hunted  by  the  warships  of  Japan,  Russia,  and  the  United  States  to  such 
an  extent  that  her  skipper,  who  always  managed  to  escape,  was  known  as  the  ■  Flying  Dutchman  '  " — 
such  was  the  schooner  "  Adele,"  the  last  of  a  fleet  of  seal-pirates,  on  which  the  author  all  unknowingly 
shipped  for  a  cruise  in  Behring  Sea.  That  the  voyage  proved  exciting  enough  will  be  seen  from  his  narrative. 


N  18S9,  being  then  twenty-three  years 
old,  I  was  playing  about  in  the  City 
of  Victoria,  on  Vancouver  Island.  I 
had  tried  my  hand  at  many  trades  — 
trooper,  trader,  and  missionary  being 
the  last  three — and  thought  that  for  variety  I 
would  like  to  try  sailoring.  I'uU  of  mischief, 
literally  hunting  for  trouble,  I  came  upon  a  little 
Norwegian  sailor,  master  of  the  sealing-schooner 
Ad'e/e,  and  asked  him  to  take  me  for  a  voyage. 
He  said  that  he  would  engage  me  as  ordinary 
seaman  at  two  pounds  a  month,  so  I  took  my 
dunnage  on  board  the  Adele. 

So  far  I  had  not  the  slightest  idea  of  anything 
wrong  :  but  when  I  told  my  friends  tliat  I  had 
joined  the  Adele  for  a  sealing  trip  in  Behring 
Sea  they  told  me  I  must  be  crazy.  How,  they 
asked,  was  a  fifty-ton  schooner,  so  small  that 
she  was  readily  |)ulled  with  sweeps,  to  face  berg 
and  ice-pack,  hurricane  and  fog,  in  tlie  terrible 
winter  of  the  Arctic  regions?  Why,  too,  should 
she  go  sealing  at  a  time  when  tliere  were  no 
seals  in  the  north  ?     What  was  the  Adele.,  any- 


how ?  Chinese  built,  owned  in  Japan  by  Ger- 
mans, and  run  by  a  Norwegian  subject  under 
British  colours,  claiming  five  nationalities,  and 
hunted  by  the  warships  of  Japan,  Russia,  and 
the  United  States  to  such  an  extent  that  lier 
skipper,  who  always  managed  to  escape,  was 
known  far  and  wide  as  the  "  Flying  Dutchman  "  ! 

The  trip  certainly  seemed  to  promise  excite- 
ment. I  was  so  afraid  of  the  Adele  sailing 
without  me  that  I  went  down  and  camped  on 
board  her.  Also  I  grubbed  around  her  lockers 
to  see  if  I  could  find  the  black  Hag  with  the 
skull  and  cross-bones,  for  everybody  said  she 
was  a  pirate. 

Soon  the  sailors  on  board  began  to  grumble. 
They  swore  I  was  a  spy  and  had  brought  my 
Kodak  with  me  to  take  evidence.  The  skipper, 
to  humour  them,  tried  to  persuade  me  to  go 
ashore,  saying  he  had  given  up  the  idea  of 
Behring  Sea  and  was  only  going  across  to 
Yokohama.  He  refused  to  sign  me  on  at  the 
shipping  ofifice,  got  my  friends  to  scare  me  out 
of  tiie  voyage,  and   warned   me   of  the   awful 


478 


THE    WIDE'    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


hardships  I  should  have  to  endure.  But  all  to 
no  purpose ;  I  was  bent  on  making  the  voyage. 
I  dared  not  step  ashore  for  fear  of  being  left 
behind,  so  I  stowed  myself  away  and  did  not 
appear  on  deck  till  we  had  sailed. 

Not  until  we  were  well  at  sea  did  I  confess  to 
having  brought  my  camera — a  thing  not  usual 
in  the  kit  of  an  ordinary  seaman.  All  hands 
thereupon  became  so  certain  that  I  was  a 
detective  sent  to  spy  upon  them  that  they 
plotted  to  throw  the  Kodak 
overboard.  So  I  resorted 
to  strategy.  I  took  a  sepa- 
rate photograph  of  every 
man  on  board,  explaining 
that  if  the  camera  got  n)is- 
laid  they  would  never  get 
any  pictures.  That  saved 
the  camera  and,  to  some 
extent,  the  situation. 

It  was  next  decided — I 
not  being  consulted  in  the 
matter  —  that  I  must  be 
marooned  on  some  desert 
island,  so  whenever  we 
came  to  de.sert  islands  I 
kept  modestly  out  of  sight. 
On  one  island  the  crew 
landed  to  cut  a  number  of 
bludgeons  in  the  woods, 
for  what  purpose  I  could 
not  imagine.  At  another 
island,  off  Northern  Alaska, 
we  watered  the  ship  and 
had  a  lot  of  fun  shooting 
salmon.  Nobody,  however, 
would  tell  me  a  word  as  to 
the  purpose  of  the  voyage, 
l)ut  I  knew  by  the  lay  of 
the  Aleutian  Islands  that 
we  were  passing  between 
them  into  Hehring  Sea,  and 
there  was  a  significant  over- 
hauling of  sea -boots,  oil- 
skins, and  gloves  as  we  entered  the  Arctic  waters. 

After  a  time  things  began  to  leak  out  about 
former  voyages,  and  I  learned  that  the  Ade/e 
was  the  last  surviving  .schooner  of  a  fleet  of 
twenty  which  had  been  engaged  in  what  was 
f)rartically  piracy  on  the  high  seas.  They  .sailed 
from  Yokohama  usually,  under  Japanese  colours, 
claiming  to  be  sea  otter  hunters,  and  infested 
the  Kuriles  and  the  Okhotsk  Clulf.  They 
destroyed  every  breeding-ground  of  fur-seals  in 
the  Kurile  grouj),  even  fighting  the  Japanese 
gunboats  when  hard  pressed.  On  the  '  Russian 
breeding  ground  at  Saghalien  they  sometimes 
bribed,  sometimes  fought  the  Cossack  garrisons, 
or  made   the   .soldiers  dnink   whil.-   iliey  sacked 


IHE   AUTHOR,    IN 

Photo,  by  The  Hastings 


the  warehouses,  butchered  the  seals,  and  kept 
alert  watch  for  the  cruisers.  The  pirates  occa- 
sionally fought  pitched  battles  among  them- 
selves for  the  plunder,  and  at  one  terrible 
triangular  duel  between  three  schooners  the 
"  Flying  Dutchman "  claimed  to  have  been 
present. 

Mr.  Rudyard  Kipling  tells  me  that  his 
"  Rhyme  of  the  Three  Sealers  "  was  gathered 
at  Yokohama  from   Captain   Lake.      This  fine 

ballad  embodies  all  the 
facts  as  told  me  by  the 
"  Flying  Dutchman." 

Some  of  the  Yokohama 
pirates  were  lost  with  all 
hands  at  sea,  and  one  or 
two  were  captured  by  the 
Russians  and  their  people 
condemned  to  penal  servi- 
tude in  Siberia. 

What  with  foundering, 
wreck,  capture,  severe  dis- 
couragement by  the  Japa- 
nese Government,  and  the 
destruction  of  all  the 
breeding- grounds,  the 
pirates  were  gradually 
weeded  out  until  the  little 
Adele  2\ox\^  remained,  but 
she  was  constrained  to  seek 
refuge  on  the  eastern  side 
of  the  Pacific.  In  1885,  I 
believe,  she  was  captured 
by  an  American  gunboat 
and  her  crew  put  on  trial 
in  San  Francisco ;  but  the 
Court  had  neither  jurisdic- 
tion nor  evidence,  and  she 
had  to  be  released.  There- 
after the  "  Flying  I  )utih- 
man  "  wreaked  vengeance 
for  that  sligiit  by  raiding 
only  the  American  breed- 
ing-grounds on  the  Priby- 
loffs  or  (ireat  Seal  Islands,  in  Pehring  Sea.  To 
the  authorities  in  the  Canadian  ports  where  he 
outfitted  he  was  obliged  to  give  frequent  proofs 
of  his  innocence  and  virtue  as  a  pelagic  or 
deep-sea  sealer. 

Under  United  States  charter  the  Alaska 
Commercial  Company  held  exclusive  rights 
upon  the  Great  Seal  Islands,  and  they  did 
everything  possible  to  annoy  the  "  Flying 
Dutchman."  The  company  had  an  interest  in 
the  Sail  J'/'a/iiisca  J'lxaiiii/ier,  whose  corre- 
s])ondents  acted  as  private  detectives  to  watch 
the  seaports  of  Western  America.  In  summer 
the  islands  were  guarded  from  attack  by  both 
British  and  United  States  gunboats.     The  seal 


SEALING   COSTUME. 

Art  Stutiio,  Victoria,  B.C. 


THE    "  ILVING    I)UTCH\[AN." 


479 


rookeries  were  further  protected  by  about  two 
luiiulred  Aleutian  Indians,  commanded  by 
American  officers  and  armed  with  Winchester 
rifles.  The  cliarts  had  been  carefully  falsified 
and  the  o[)en  ancliorages  were  supposed  to  be 
fouled  with  concealed  obstructions. 

In  summer  the  Pribyloffs 
were  too  closely  guarded  for 
attack;  but  as  winter  ap- 
proached both  the  gunboats 
and  most  of  the  seals  took 
refuLTe  in  warmer  climates. 
Entrenched  by  the  terrific 
perils  of  the  sea  the  garrison 
stayed  on  guard.  The  "  Flying 
Dutchman"  planned  to  seize 
any  chance  of  fine  weather  and 
moonlight  to  land  upon  the 
islands,  get  the  garrison  intoxi- 
cated, and  sack  the  warehouses 
wherein  the  skins  were  stored. 
So  valuable  were  these  fur- 
seal  skins  that  success  meant 
a  handsome  fortune.  This, 
then,  was  the  venture  u[)on 
which  I  had  embarked. 

Some  two  hundred  miles 
north  of  the  Unimak  Pass  we  sighted  the  Priby- 
loffs, and,  heading  for  St.  George  Island,  bore 
away  under  black  lava  cliffs  in  the  midst  of  a 
driving  squall,  the  hail  whitening  our  decks. 
The  mate  had  a  powerful  pair  of  field-glasses 
focused  on  the  shores, 
and  presently  reported  a 
man  running  along  the 
cliffs.  'I'hen,  as  we  en- 
tered South  -  West  Bay 
and  came  up  to  the  wind 
all  fluttering,  the  skipper 
sang  out  his  orders  : — 

"  Stand  by  the  anchor 
there!  All  ready?  Down 
staysail  !  down  jib  !  Let 
go  !  "  and  down  plunged 
the  anchor. 

The  mate,  still  on  the 
look-out,  re|)ort(-'d  four 
men  coming  out  of  a 
shanty,  all  armed  with 
rifles.  The  dinghy  was 
lowered,  and  with  two 
men  the  skipper  put  off 
for  the  shore.  While  the 
rest  of  us  stowed  the  sails 

and  made  all  snug  I  began  to  notice  that  the 
water  around  us  was  covered  with  black  dots. 
We  were  literally  surrounded  by  thousands  of 
fur-seals,  all  leaping  and  throwing  themselves 
about,    shrieking    "  Poooh  !  "   at    the    schooner 


THE   SKIPPEK   OF    THE         ADELE,      WHO 
WAS    KNOWN    AS    THE    "pI.VINC 

From  a\  Dutchman."  \rhpto. 


1  HE   SEALING   SCHOHNI-.I; 
From  a 


with  shrill  screeches  of  derision,  followed  by  a 
flip  and  a  splash  as  they  dived.  They  swarmed 
about  the  dinghy  as  though  it  were  some  new 
sort  of  toy,  and  one  seal,  gri[){)ing  the  blade  of 
an  oar  in  his  while  teeth,  clung  on  like  a  pupjjy 
to  a  stii:k  until  the  man  mi.ssed  stroke  and 
caught  a  crab.  The  guard 
ashore,  I  could  see,  were  stand- 
ing with  levelled  rifles  ready 
to  fire  on  the  boat.  Then 
down  came  another  scjuall  and 
blotted  everything  out. 

When  the  air  cleared  again 
the  skipper  was  ashore  having 
a  pleasant  chat  with  the  guard. 
He  told  them  we  were  off  our 
course,  with  a  broken  binnacle, 
all  reckoning  lost,  and  a  bad 
leak.  We  had  put  in,  he  said, 
"in  distress."  The  guard  ex- 
plained, tersely,  that  they  were 
United  States  Government 
soldiers,  that  we  were  pirates, 
and  they  had  sent  a  man  to 
alarm  the  main  garrison  on 
the  other  side  of  the  island. 
The  skipper  seemed  wonder- 
fully pleased,  and  produced  a  bottle  of  gin.  "  I 
suppose,"  he  said,  looking  innocently  at  the 
swarming  fur-seals,  "  that  you  think  I  came  after 
sealskins?  Dear  me!  Try  another  drink." 
The  bottle  was  empty  in  two  shakes  of  a  seal's 

flipper.  Then  thi:  dinghy 
came  back  to  the  ship  and 
everything  was  arranged 

The 
of  the  island 
and  his  officers  were  to 
be  lured  on  board  and 
held  as  prisoners  while 
we  landed  and  looted  the 
warehouse,  full  of  pre- 
cious furs. 

Meanwhile,  however, 
the  breeze  increased  to 
a  strong  gale,  and  by 
midnii-ht  the  sea  was 
much  too  rough  for  any 
work  that  night.  I  stood 
anchor- watch  from  S  p.m. 
until  midnight,  when  the 
second  mate  relieved  me. 
Then  I  sat  under  the 
lamp  in  the  forecastle 
reading  a  novel  before  I  turned  into  my  bunk. 
On  deck  I  heard  something  flopping  about,  and 
when  the  second  mate  called  me  up  I  found 
that  he  had  gaffed  a  young  seal.  The  seal 
didn't  seem  to  mind  ;  it  was  rather  shy,  but  not 


for  the  nights  work, 
governor 


48o 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


the  least  bit  alarmed,  so  for  some  time  the  mate, 
the  visitor,  and  I  played  gravely  together  like 
three  sensible  children.  There  was  a  full  gale 
blowing  when  I  went  below  to  turn  in. 

"  All  hands  on  deck  !  "  came  the  order.  The 
gale  had  suddenly  whipped  round,  and  with 
hurricane  strength  swept  in  on  the  anchorage. 
The  sea  rose  bodily  at  us,  the  hurricane 
screamed  in  the  rigging,  and  with  the  anchor 
dragging  along  the  ground  we  were  swept 
helplessly  across  the  anchorage.  By  the 
ghastly  light  of  the  surf  we  cast  off  the  gaskets. 


■'  n    WAS    Ivpi/V    M*'^'    t'.i'    HIMSELF." 


loosed  the  sails,  and,  manning  the  windlass, 
pumped  up  and  down  on  the  brakes  trying  to  take 
in  the  anchor.  Had  anyone  been  in  command 
we  should  have  slipped  our  cable  and  stood  out 
to  sea,  but  the  skipper  and  the  mate  were  both 
drunk.  So  the  brake  was  wrenched  from  our 
clutch  again  and  again,  and  whole  fathoms  of 
chain  tore  out  over  the  drums  whenever  the 
anchor  caught,  while  inch  by  inch  we  tried  to 
sweat  home  that  chain,  all  the  time  drifting  nearer 
the  cliffs.  Now  we  were  lifting  on  the  long 
combers,  now  sunk  in  the  trough  of  the  sea,  but 
still  fighting  desperately  with  the 
brakes,  pumping  up  and  down  to 
the  hoarse  cries  which  kept  us  in 
time.  At  last,  with  a  sudden 
wrench,  we  were  shaken  off  and 
thrown  in  all  directions.  The 
chain  had  parted,  we  were  hurling 
along  on  the  rollers,  and  it  was 
every  man  for  himself.  We  began 
to  strip  off  our  clothes. 

.Suddenly  I  noticed  my  chum 
Dave  hauling  up  the  staysail,  and 
wondered  vaguely  why  he  didn't 
undress,  because  nobody  could 
hope  to  reach  the  shore  in  sea- 
boots  and  oilskins.  Then  the  wind 
stopped  all  of  a  sudden  and  we 
seemed  to  be  in  a  dead  calm. 
Looking  up,  I  found  we  were 
under  the  comb  of  an  enormous 
wave.  Its  white  crest  seemed 
higher  than  the  mastheads  and  its 
gleaming,  curved  wall  was  arching 
over  us,  ready  to  fall.  I  yelled  a 
warning  to  the  crowd,  gripped 
hard,  look  a  long  breath,  and  then 
down  came  the  sea.  The  crash 
seemed  to  break  my  back.  I  felt 
the  schooner  reeling  over  on  her 
beam  ends,  and  1  waited,  half 
drowned,  for  the  end. 

The  vessel,  however,  rolled  her- 
self clear,  the  rest  of  the  men, 
who  had  been  hurled  into  the  lee 
.scuppers,  now  reaching  up  their 
arms  out  of  the  white  waters.  The 
shij)  had  been  slued  round  by 
the  breaker  and  came  right  up  to 
the  wind.  The  staysail  filled  and 
we  were  under  way.  We  were 
saved. 

It  was  Dave  who  had  saved  the 
ship  by  sweating  up  that  staysail, 
and  now  we  all  jumped  to  our 
work.  One  to  the  wheel,  the  rest 
of  us  making  sail,  we  beat  up  the 
wind,   clawing    our    way    seaward, 


THE    "  FLYIN(i    DUTCHMAN." 


481 


the  jagged  reefs  on  every  side,  the  air  full  of 
spray,  the  ghastly  white  surf  giving  us  light  to 
steer.  When  at  last  we  all  gathered  at  the  water- 
butts  for  a  drink  we  guessed  that  we  had  been 
about  five  minutes  making  that  big  fight  for  our 
lives — but  the  fo'c's'le  clock  said  two  hours  ! 

I  have  never  been  able  to  find  out  what 
arrangements  the  garrison  had  made  for  our 
reception  when  they  saw  us  driving  ashore. 
They  had  eighty  men  there,  and  no  doubt  had 
we  landed  they  would  have  done  their  best  for 
us  with  warm  blankets,  hot  drinks,  and  artificial 
respiration  —  with  a  course  of  handcuffs  and  leg- 
irons  by  way  of  dessert.  The  islands  need  no 
garrison;  they  have  the  surf! 

We  lay  hove  to,  just  beyond  sight  of  land, 
waiting  for  the  full  moon  before  we  attempted  a 
raid  on  the  larger  island  of  St.  Paul.  The  deck 
was  glazed  over,  the  rigging  cased  in  ice,  the 
wind  at  times  blew  a  full  gale,  and  the  ground 
swell  in  that  shallow  sea  threatened  more  than 
once  to  wholly  demolish  the  Adcle.  At  the  end 
of  the  second  week,  under  a  bright  blue  sky, 
with  a  fresh  breeze  dead  astern,  we  bore  down, 
all  winged  out,  on  two  white  hills  in  the  sea, 
which  at  sundown  grew  into  a  large  snow-clad 


We  stood  in  at  dusk  and  lay  under  the  land, 
with  darkened  portholes,  covered  skylights,  and 
strict  orders  that  no  pipes  were  to  be  lighted 
on  deck.  The  stench  from  the  rookery  came 
down  to  us  on  the  air  like  a  decayed  henroost, 
together  with  a  great  noise  made  up  of  absurd 
babbling,  bleating,  screeching,  and  Ixirking. 
We  had  plenty  of  wind  for  flight  if  attacked  by 
the  one  hundred  and  fifty  Aleutians  of  the 
garrison,  we  had  moonlight  to  raid  by,  calm 
water  for  the  boats,  and  room  on  deck  for  four 
hundred  seals— worth  a  small  fortune.  The 
skipper  gave  orders  to  lower  away  the  boats,  but 
instead  of  obeying  we  all  gathered  aft  and 
mutinied !  The  reason  for  this  I  must  ex- 
plain. The  "  Flying  Dutchman  "  had  promised 
to  every  man  (except  me)  the  sum  of  two 
shillings  for  every  sealskin  taken.  That  was 
before  we  sailed  ;  but  at  the  Shumagin  Islands 
his  promise  dwindled  down  to  a  shilling  a  skin. 
One  of  the  sailors  went  so  far  as  to  throw  his  bag 
into  a  boat,  and  rowed  off  with  the  casual  remark 
that  he  was  "  going  fishing."  The  captain  got  a 
rifle  and  persuaded  him  to  return;  but,  neverthe- 
less, from  that  time  onwards  we  were  afraid  that 
the  shilling  a  skin  might  shrink  to  sixpence,  and 
the  sixpence  be  too  small  for  the  captain  to 
remember  on  paying-off  day.  We  wanted 
two  shillings  a  skin,  and  so  we  went  aft 
to  demand  a  written  agreement  before  we 
began  the  raid.    The  ski[)per  was  very  rude 


HIE   SKIPl'EK    CALLED   OS    NAMES. 


island.  This  was  St.  Paul,  the  big  city  of  the 
fur-seals,  where  three  millions  of  them  used  to 
spend  the  summer,  in  order  to  feast  on  the  cod 
banks,  keep  house  ashore,  and  teach  their  little 
babies  how  to  swim. 

Vol.  xi.— 61. 


and  called  us  names.  With  his  crew  in  a  state 
of  open  mutiny,  however,  he  could  not  raid  the 
islands,  so  after  a  great  deal  of  language  on  both 
sides  we  got  up  anchor,  made  sail,  and  went 
away  to  fight  the  matter  out  on  the  high  seas. 


482 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


For  three  days  and  three  niglus  the  cabin-boy 
and  I  kept  watch  and  watch  about.  When  we 
came  down  for  meals  we  found  the  skipper 
busy  cleaning  rifles,  all  alert  and  ready  for  war. 
Forward  in  the  forecastle  the  six  of  us  sailors 
had  only  two  revolvers,  whereas  aft  in  the  cabin 
were  the  skipper,  mate,  hunter,  cook,  and  boy, 
all  properly  armed.  After  three  days  the 
"  Flying  Dutchman  "  told  us  that  he  was  going 
to  raid  the  islands  anyhow,  the  landing  party  to 
consist  of  himself,  the  mate,  the  hunter,  the 
cook,  the  boy,  and  me.  With  this  news  he  sent 
me  to  the  forecastle.  The  mutineers  were 
greatly  pleased.  They  thought  the  skipper's 
raid  a  splendid  scheme,  and  wished  me  joy  of 
it.  As  soon  as  we  were  ashore  among  the  seals, 
they  said  they  would  up  anchor  and  stjuare 
away  for  \'ictoria,  leaving  us  raiders  to  our  fate. 
"What  will  you  do?"  they  asked;  "camp  in 
the  snow,  or  explain  things  to  the  United  States 
garrison  ?" 

All  this  was  very  awkward.  I  could  not  act 
as  a  tale-bearer  and  warn  the  skipper,  nor  could 
I  play  the  coward  and  refuse  to  go  raiding. 
Neither  did  I  care  to  side  with  the  mutineers  in 
actual  mutiny.  To  go  with  the  captain  meant 
capture  by  the  United  States  authorities  and  a 
term  of  imprisonment  for  raiding  the  forbidden 
islands,  while  to  throw  in  my  lot  with  the  muti- 
neers meant  outlawry  as  a  pirate  and  a  term  of 
imprisonment  for  helping  to  steal  a  ship.  I 
spent  half  that  night  making  a  pocket  in  the 
breast  of  my  leather  jacket  for  certain  private 
papers.      I  had  decided  to  go  with  the  ca[jtain. 

Meanwhile  I  had  proposed  to  the  contending 
I)arties  a  plan  for  dividing  the  plunder,  and  both 
the  captain  and  the  mutineers  told  me  I  was  a 
fool.  On  that  one  point  they  were  agreed,  but 
by  breakfast  time  next  morning  they  found 
other  points  for  agreement,  including  the  whole 
of  my  pliin  for  a  settlement.  I  was  just  aching 
for  a  little  praise,  but,  instead,  everybody 
rounded  on  me.  I  was  a  wretched  detective, 
they  said,  reverting  to  the  old  accusation,  sent 
on  board  to  spy,  and  had  better  keep  a  civil 
tongue-  in  my  head. 

'ihe  whole  crowd  being  happy  and  friendly 
a.s  l)«-forc,  and  (juite  agreed  as  to  the  sharing 
of  the  spoils,  it  was  decided  to  raid  the 
islands  forthwith.  Hut,  unfortunately,  during 
the  protracted  argument  we  had  missed  our 
only  chance  of  any  plunder,  for  now  the 
weather  changed  and  we  were  in  for  a 
gale  which  lasted  with  occasional  spells  for 
five  weeks.  IJehring  Sea  being  a  thousand 
miles  wide  and  very  shallow,  the  ground  swell 
lifts  to  an  enormous  height,  greater  even  than 
the  famous  sea  ofT  Cape  Horn,  'i'he  little  chip 
of  a  schooner  would  lift  upwards  to  the  crest  of 


a  mighty  swell,  hang  poised  in  the  white  surf 
lashed  by  an  icy  spray,  then  slide  down  the  long 
hill  to  lie  becalmed  in  the  trough,  until  the  next 
monster  came  roaring  out  of  the  gloom.  The 
scene  was  one  of  frightful  grandeur,  but  after  a 
month  it  began  to  get  on  our  nerves.  One 
man  went  mad  with  fear. 

The  schooner  was  rather  uncomfortable  also, 
down  by  the  bows  with  tons  of  massive  ice, 
sheathed  from  truck  to  keel  with  a  gleaming 
crust,  and  hung  with  glittering  icicles.  Fairies 
might  have  enjoyed  such  a  lovely  home,  but  we 
were  only  sailors  and  we  swore.  But  at  last  the 
wind  lulled,  the  sea  went  down,  and  it  was 
almost  calm  as  we  closed  in  with  St.  Paul 
Island.  With  axes  and  boiling  water  we  cleared 
out  the  heavy  ice,  and  dropped  anchor  abreast 
of  the  big  seal  rookery.  It  was  only  when  we 
came  to  the  actual  raiding  that  we  discovered 
our  boats  were  leaking  like  baskets,  that  the 
surf  along  the  shore  was  enough  to  swamp  us, 
and,  worse  still,  that  the  fur-seals  had  nearly  all 
gone  off  to  their  winter  resorts  in  the  tropics  ! 

I  was  hot  permitted  to  land.  "  No  spies 
allowed,"  I  was  told,  and  I  felt  ruffled  and  sore 
until  the  boats  came  off  in  a  sinking  condition, 
with  scarcely  any  plunder.  The  men  were  ex- 
hausted before  we  had  a  dozen  seal  carcasses  on 
deck,  and  then  they  knocked  off  work.  I  volun- 
teered to  keep  anchor-watch  until  sunrise  and 
everybody  else  went  to  bed. 

Everybody  else  ?  No ;  a  man  was  missing. 
Oscar,  the  Swede,  who  had  been  driven  crazy 
by  the  five  weeks'  gale,  was  found  to  have  de- 
serted. No  doubt  the  poor  fool  had  gone  off 
to  the  village  four  miles  away,  and  we  fully 
expected  that  a  hundred  and  fifty  men,  all 
armed  with  Winchester  rifles,  would  attack  the 
ship  before  daybreak. 

It  was  tvvo  o'clock  in  the  morning  when,  look- 
ing  towards  the  village,  I  saw  a  clear  light 
gleaming  upon  the  beach  not  more  than  five 
hundred  yards  distant.  Here,  no  doubt,  I 
thought,  was  the  attacking  party,  but  as  all  our 
lights  were  covered  the  schooner  must  be  quite 
invisible  from  the  shore.  To  make  certain  I 
examined  every  porthole  fore  and  aft,  and  was 
iKjnified  at  ruiding  one  uncovered.  The  ship's 
boy  had  taken  his  coat  from  the  porthole  in  his 
bunk,  and  the  clear  light  of  the  cabin  lam[)  was 
shining  out  into  the  darkness  !  I  covered  that 
beacon  in  a  hurry. 

Only  next  day  did  I  learn  how  the  Swede, 
lost  in  the  snow,  had  made  a  bonfire  of  his 
oilskin  coat  and  sou'wester  to  warm  himself 
by  the  flame.  That  fire  I  had  mistaken  for  a 
lantern  carried  by  the  men  of  the  island  guard. 
When  Oscar  saw  the  light  in  the  ship  go 
out    he   thought  that  we  had  sailed  from    the 


Till-:     "  1  LYING    DUTCHMAN." 


483 


and  grease,  the 
spray  lashed  in 
our  faces,  and  our 
hands  were  numb 
with  cold,  but 
somehow  we 
salted  down  those 
ill  -  gotten  skins, 
the  sole  results  of 
a  disastrous  voy- 
age. I  had  had 
more  than  enough 
of  seal -pi racy  by 
this  time,  and 
thankfully  left  the 
schooner  when  we 
reached  civiliza- 
tion once  more. 

The  following 
year  the  Adcle 
made  a  successful 
voyage,  stealing 
four  hundred 
skins,  and  then  in 
1 89 1  she  was  cast 


*% 


THE   SWEDE    HAD    MADE   A    BONFIRE  OF    HIS   OII.SKIN    COAT   AND   SOU  -WESTER. 


anchorage  and  left  him,  and  he  wept  bitterly 
over  the  dying  ashes  of  his  burnt  oilskins.  He 
came  on  b(jard  next  morning. 

There  was  no  attack.  The  American  ofificers 
in  charge  of  the  island  knew  well  that  long 
before  they  could  get  their  men  within  range  we 
could  slip  our  cable  and  be  off  to  sea.  \\'hen 
the  raiding  began  again  at  daybreak  we  saw 
them  watching  us  from  the  village,  observing 
through  their  rield-glasses  what  a  very  poor  bag 
we  were  getting  from  the  nearly  empty  breeding- 
grounds.  U'e  only  got  seventy-five  seals,  which 
we  stripped  on  the'  rolling,  ice-clad  deck  as  we 
put  to  sea.    The  carcasses  rolled  about  in  blood 


away.  Her  bones  lie  bleaching  on  the  Queen 
Charlotte  Islands,  but  her  crew  escaped,  and  only 
last  year  I  heard  of  the  "Flying  Dutchman." 
He  was  working  a  gold  mine  on  the  outer  coast 
of  Vancouver  Island  and  had  gallantly  rescued 
some  drowning  men  from  a  wreck.  I  suppose 
that  the  Adcic  was  the  last  of  all  the  pirates, 
and  there  will  never  be  any  more  raids  like  the 
raids  of  the  "  Flying  Dutchman."  It  is  good  to 
look  back  on  those  lawless  days,  sitting  here,  a 
respectable  man  in  most  respectable  London, 
dreaming  of  the  awful  grandeur  of  Behring  Sea 
in  winter,  of  the  little  ice-clad  schooner,  and 
the  "  Flying  Dutchman." 


tAmong  ths  South  Sea  Cannibals. 

Bv  Captain  H.  Cayley  Webster,  F.R.Z.S. 

I. 

The    author   has   recently  returned   from  a  seven  years'  sojourn  among  the  fierce    man-eating  and 

head-hunting  tribes  of   the  South    Sea  Islands.      Captain  Webster's  narrative  makes  most  thrilling 

reading,  and  he  illustrates  it  with  a  number  of  excellent  photographs. 


HE  romantic  and  delighlful  descrip- 
tions of  life  in  the  South  Seas 
given  by  Mr.  Louis  Becke  and 
other  writers  convey  a  very  idealized 
picture  of  the  real  thing.  Golden 
beaches  caressed  by  bright  blue  seas,  rippling 
over  corals  of  rainbow  hue,  or  foaming  surf  dash- 
ing on  the  sullen  reefs  which  guard  those  peaceful 
islands  of  eternal  solitude,  undoubtedly  seem  very 
beautiful  and  lend  themselves  to  poetic  treat- 
ment ;  but  one  is  not  shown  the  hungry  sharks 
which  haunt  the  sunlit  lagoons,  or  the  venomous 
pests  which  lurk  in  the  impenetrable  forests.  The 
graceful  waving  palm  trees,  with  cleverly-thatched 
huts  peeping  from  their  foliage,  are  certainly 
most  pleasing  to  the  eye — until  one  discovers 
the  treacherous  .savage  stealing  from  their  midst 
with  a  native  stone  axe  within  his  grasp,  or 
perchance  a  poisoned  arrow  in  his  bow. 
Picturesfjue  as  he  may  appear  in  the  distance 
with  his  feathered  head-dress  and  nude  brown 
body,  he  turns  out  on  closer  inspection  to  be 
a  somewhat  dirty  and  evil-smelling  individual, 
with  boisterous  manners  and  rudimentary  ideas 
of  honour,  often  only  waiting  for  an  opportunity 
to  strike  you  down.  It  is  then  that  the  poetry 
and  romance  slowly  fade  away,  the  reality  of 
things  comes  home,  and  one's  hand  steals  in- 
stinctively to  the  belt  where  nestles,  invariably, 
the  revolver-  here  one's  only  friend. 

During  my  travels  through  the  South  Seas, 
which  have  extended  over  a  period  of  seven 
years,  I  visited  many  wild  and  remote  places, 
trjtally  unknown  to  the  European,  peopled  by 
ferocious  and  bloodthirsty  cannilials,  whose 
only  aim  in  life,  apparently,  is  to  seek  those 
whom  they  may  devour. 

I  had  on  all  occasions  to  use  the  utmost 
circumspection  in  dealing  with  these  savages,  in 
order  to  prevent  murder  and  trearhery.  The 
natives  of  New  (niinea,  the  Admiralties,  New 
Britain,  New  Ireland,  and  the  Solomons  at  first 
glance  seem  to  be  of  a  friendly  disposition,  but 
are  at  heart  savage  and  treacherous,  always  on  the 
look  out  for  a  favourable  opportunity  to  take  the 


stranger  unawares  and  add  still  one  more  head 
to  their  already  huge  collection.  The  seem- 
ingly unarmed  Admiralty  Islander,  for  instance, 
is  far  more  dangerous  than  he  looks,  for, 
although  he  may  lay  down  his  obsidian  spear 
immediately  he  is  asked,  he  always  carries,  stuck 
through  his  matted  hair,  an  obsidian  dagger 
about  ten  inches  in  length,  with  a  handle 
fashioned  after  the  style  of  the  usual  native 
head-comb. 

On  the  Island  of  Kung,  however,  which  is 
very  near  the  Admiralties,  the  natives  proved 
an  exception  to  the  general  rule  and  were 
delighted  to  see  me,  bringing  presents  of 
yams  and  taros  daily,  receiving  in  exchange 
sticks  of  tobacco,  which  they  very  soon  learned , 
to  appreciate.  One  man  especially  became 
quite  attached  to  me,  and  would  make  his 
appearance  at  the  .earliest  dawn  and  stay  until 
the  sun  sank  beneath  the  horizon,  lying  about 
the  deck  of  the  yacht  in  perfect  contentment, 
although  we  occasionally  persuaded  him  to  do 
a  little  work.  His  greatest  delight  was  to  get 
one  of  my  men  to  paint  him  from  head  to  foot, 
and  many  a  laugh  has  been  occasioned  by  our 
friend  being  sent  away  at  night  with  a  vivid  coat 
of  white,  green,  red,  and  yellow  paint  smeared 
all  over  his  body. 

The  women  of  these  islands  invariably  wear  as 
their  only  clothing  a  curious  headgear  resem- 
bling a  fool's  cap.  This  head-dress  consists  of 
banana  leaves  sewn  together  with  native  thread, 
and  is  jammed  on  far  over  their  eyes. 

Walking  through  a  village  one  day,  I  came 
upon  a  native  who  was  busily  engaged  in  killing 
and  eating  mosquitoes.  "  What  !  "  I  exclaimed, 
through  a  native  interjireter  who  was  with  me, 
"are  they  nice,  that  you  eat  them?'' 

"No,"  he  replied  ;  "  l)ui  they  take  my  blood, 
so  I  kill  and  eat  them  in  revenge." 

Among  the  various  custon)s  the  dance  is  pre- 
eminent. The  natives  range  themselves  in 
front  of  a  huge  tomtom,  and  present  a  most 
picturesque  appearance  as  they  whirl  round 
to  the   dismal  sounds,    passing  through   many 


AMONG    THE    SOUTH    SEA    CANNIBALS. 


485 


complicated  evolutions  with  the  utmost  dex- 
terity and  correctness  of  imu'.  The  accom- 
panying   [)hotograph    shows    a    number    of 


New  Hanover  women 
about  to  commence  one 
of  these  dances. 

Curiously    enough 
the  natives  here  prac- 
tise the  art  of  palmistry. 
On  one  occasion  I  saw 
a    man    studying    the 
hand  of  another   most 
intently.     After  watch- 
ing  him    for    a    few 
moments   I    gave    him 
my    own    to    look    at, 
when  he  at  once  made 
an    exclamation   which 
I    afterwards  found  to 
be  the  name 
of  a  bird.    It 
seems   that, 
according  to 
their     lore, 
everyone  is 
either  a  fish 
or  a  bird  in 
the  shape  of 
a  human  be- 
ing.      Many 
months  after- 
wards,  when 
in   another 


NEW    HANOVEU    WOMEN    ABOUT 
TO   COMMENCE    A    DANCE. 

From  a  Photo. 


country  where  the  people 
have  never,  so  far  as 
history  knows,  had  any 
connection  with  the  New 
Hanover  folk,  and  where 
the  language  is  totally 
different,  I  found  the 
same  occult  art  prac- 
tised, and  on  presenting 
my  i)alm  for  inspection 
was  pronounced  to  be  the 
same  bird. 

In  some  parts  of  the 
Solomon  Islands  the  na- 
tives, for  greater  protection 
against  their  enemies,  live 
in  houses  which  are  built 
in  the  uppermost  branches 
of  the  highest  trees,  To 
the  traveller  approaching 
these  villages  in  the  air 
they  have  the  appearance  of 
a  huge  rookery.  A  typical 
eyrie  of  this  kind  is  shown 
in  the  following  photo- 
graph. On  the 
right  will  be  seen  a 
native  climbing  the 
bamboo  ladder 
which  leads  to  the 
houses. 

Ascending     the 

bamboo  ladder 

leading    to 

one  of  these 

strange 


dwellings     I 


llirl-.!-,    r.Ni    A     IKKE-IOC,    NINblV    KKKl 
FKOM    THE   GROUND. 

From  a  Photo. 


reached     a 
platform 
arranged 
among      the 
leaves  of  the 
highest  bran- 
ches.     Here 
1    found    an 
e  n  o  r  m  o  u  s 
boulder 
taken   from  the  sea, 
weighing    several 
hundredweight.       It 
puzzled     me    very 
much  to  know  how 
it  could  possibly  have 
licen  raised  so  high 
from    the    ground — 
ijuite    ninety    feet — 
and,  strange  to  say, 
no  one  seemed  able 
to  tell  me.     It  was 


486 

there,  I  was  told,  in  case  a 
hostile  tribe  intruded,  when 
it  would  be  rolled  off  the  plat- 
form, crashing  down  through 
the  branches,  and  taking  with 
it  the  invaders  in  its  down- 
ward flight.  It  was  astonish- 
ing to  see  little  children  of 
the  tenderest  years  swinging 
monkey-like  from  branch  to 
branch  as  they  passed  from 
house  to  house  in  these 
strange  towns  in  the  tree- 
tops. 

On  the  Island 
(leorgia,  in  the 
lagoon    of    the 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


of    New 
Rubiana 

^^ >,    Solomons, 

lives  a  chief  named  Ingova, 
who  was,  until  cjuite  recently, 
one  of  the  greatest  and  most 
successful  head  -  hunters  of 
the  whole  group.  Shortly 
after  my  arrival  he  paid  me  a 
visit.  He  was  full  of  intelli- 
gence and  had  very  pleasant 
and  courtly  manners  ;  he  won 
my   sympathy   after    a    very 


H 


|-.(;OVA,    THE   EX-IIEAO-HUNTING 
CHIEK   OF    NEW   GEORGIA. 

From  a  Photo. 


short  acquaintance.  He 
begged  me  to  visit  his 
village,  and  on  my 
doing  so  treated  me 
with  the  greatest  hospi- 
tality, presenting  me  to 
some  of  his  numerous 
wives.  The  portrai*;  of 
this  amiable  gentleman 
is  here  reproduced. 

The  ex-head-hunter 
also  showed  me  his 
great  canoe  house,  and 
even  went  so  far  as  to 
have  one  of  his  magni- 
ficent war  -  canoes 
launched  in  order  that 
I  might  photograph  it. 
It  was  beautifully  made, 
having  a  total  length  of 
seventy  feet,  the  whole 
structure  being  dug  out 
of  a  solid  tree.  The 
upper  parts  and  joints 
were  fitted  and  kept 
together  without  the 
aid  of  a  single  nail. 
The  craft  was  inlaid 
from  stem  to  stern 
with  mo  ther-o'- pearl, 
arranged  in  cjuaint 
designs  and  exquisitely 
carved,    especially    the 


%^'C^ 


•r 


ONE   OF    INGOVA  S    WAR-CANOES— IT    HAD    A    HUMAN    SKULL 
FOR    A     FIGURE-HEAD. 

Front  a  Photo. 


AMONG    THE    SOUTH    SEA    CANNIBALS. 


487 


prow, 
skull 


which  was  surmounted  by  a  human 
-a  fitting  figure-head  for  such  a  vessel. 
This  canoe  was  capable  of  holding  from  twenty- 
five  to  thirty  warriors,  who  would  form  a  very 
dangerous  and  formidable  opi)osition  when  on 
the  war-path,  as  the  natives  so  often  are. 
Ingova's  war-canoe  is  shown  in  the  illustration. 


Ingova's 


house     was     a     long     native     hut 
thatched    with    leaves    of  the   sago    palm    and 
built  up  with  earth  and  clay.       It   was  so  dark 
inside,   not   having  any  apertures  to   let  in  the 
light,   that   I   had  to  feel  my  way  along,   occa- 
sionally stumbling  over  what  I  took  to  be  one 
of  the   chiefs  wives,   who  were  crouching  and 
lying   about   all    over 
the  place.     At  the 
back    of    the    hut    I 
caught   a   glimpse   of 
his  "Tambu  "  house, 
a    kind    of    temple 
which  every  big  chief 
possesses,   where    tro- 
phies of  war  are  de- 
posited  and    upon 
which  no  one  is  sup- 
posed to  look.    Here, 
glaring    through     the 
long,    dank    grass, 
which  almost  covered 
them,  I  could  see  an 
enormous     collection 
of    skulls,     the    grue- 
some trophies  of  many 
victories  — and  the  re- 
mains of  many  feasts. 
I    was    presented    to 
the     chiefs     son,     a 
youth  of  about  twenty. 
His    ears    at    once 
riveted  my  attention, 
seeing    that    the  lobe 
of    each     was     suffi- 
ciently    enlarged     to 
permit  of  his  passing 
it  round  the  huge  rings 
seen   in   the  photograph 


INGOVa's   SfIN — IHE    LOBES   OK    HIS    EARS    HAD    BEEN    ENLARGED   TO 
ADMIT   OF    THE    INSERTION    OF   THE    HUGE    RINGS    HERE   SHOWN. 

From  a  Photo. 


worn  as  ornaments,  as 
This  custom    seems 
general  throughout  these  islands,  the  lobes  being 
enlarged  to  a  most  extraordinary  magnitude. 

When  a  child  is  born  its  ears  are  at  once 
pierced  with  a  large  thorn,  which  is  thrust 
through  to  the  thickest  end.  After  a  time  a 
larger  one  replaces  it,  and  in  course  of  years  the 
lobe  is  stretched  to  such  an  extent  that  it 
becomes  quite  possible  for  the  owner  to  pass  it 
over  his  head  ! 

On  one  occasion  I  wished  to  pay  a  visit  to  an 
island  near  by,  on  which  I  was  told  a  species  of 
bird  was  to  be  found  which  I  longed  to  possess. 
Taking  in  my  boat  three  or  four  of  my  hunters. 


I  pulled  across  the  bay  to  a  village  I  could  see 
peeping  out  from  among  the  cocoanut  trees 
lining  the  shore.  Leaving  two  men  in  the  boat, 
stern  on  to  the  beach,  with  strict  instructions  on 
no  account  to  leave  her,  nor  their  oars,  I  strolled 
up  to  the  village,  which  to  my  surprise  appeared 
to  be  deserted.  "  Where  are  all  the  i)eople  ?  " 
I  asked  of  one  of  the  natives  who  accompanied 
me.  "  Suppose  man  very  cross,  he  stop  inside 
house,"  he  rej)lied.  "  Master,  you  go  away. 
People  belong  this  place  no  good.  By'mby  he 
kill  you,  you  die  finish."  "Nonsense  1"  I  said, 
"  I  am  going  into  the  forest,  so  come  along." 
After  an  hour   or   two   I   returned   to  the   coast 

with  the  prize  I 
coveted  safely  packed 
away,  when  I  found 
the  village  in  an  up- 
roar. The  people  were 
all  congregated  in  a 
large  palaver  house 
which  was  situated  in 
the  centre  of  the 
village,  and  above  the 
din  of  their  voices  I 
could  hear  one  man 
shrieking  with  all  his 
might,  while  he  threw 
his  arms  about  like  a 
raving  lunatic.  To 
him  I  made  my  way, 
rightly  judging  him  to 
be  the  chief,  and  slap- 
ping him  on  the  back 
presented  him  with  a 
cigar.  At  the  same 
time  I  made  signs  in- 
timating that  I  was 
thirsty  and  desired  a 
cocoanut  to  drink. 
He  stared  angrily  at 
me,  but  made  no 
attempt  whatever  to 
procure  what  I 
wanted.  What  was  I  to  do  ?  If  I  showeil 
the  slightest  fear,  it  would  be  all  over  with  me. 
So  again  stepping  up  to  him  I  demanded  with 
emi)hatic  gestures  to  have  my  request  acceded 
the' same  time  fondling,  in   a  conspicuous 


to,  at 

and  suggestive  manner,  my  revolver,  which  1 
took  from  my  belt.  This  act  was  too  much  for 
his  bravado,  and  he  at  once  ordered  some 
cocoanuts  to  be  brought.  Then,  with  my  back 
firmly  planted  against  a  palm,  my  revolver  still 
in  mv  hand,  and  mv  eyes  on  the  alert  for 
treachery,  I  drank  under  what  I  have  always 
looked  back  upon  as  the  most  difficult  cir- 
cumstances in  my  life.  By  this  time  my  own 
bovs  had  made  their  way  to  the  boat,  and  still 


488 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


CAKT.     WEHSTEK     LKA\1.N<;     A     HOSTILE 

ISLAND — A  MOMENT  AFTER  HE  PUSHEO 

OFF     AKKOWS    AND    Sl'EARS     FEM.   ALL 

AKOUNU    HIS    BOAT. 

From  a  Photo. 


keeping  my  face  to  the  cannibals,  who  were  now 
scowling  in  a  most  ominous  and  unmistakable 
way  at  me,  and  gesticulating  in  a  frantic  and 
e.xcited  manner,  I  retired  slowly  to  the  beach, 
though  not  turn- 
ing my  back  for 
an  instant.  On 
reaching  the  boat 
1  tumbled  into  the 
stern,  shouting  at 
the  same  time  to 
my  crew  to  pull 
away.  We  were 
not  a  moment  too 
soon,  for  arrow 
after  arrow  was 
fired  at  us,  and  a 
shower  of  spears 
fell  harmlessly 
around  as  I  waved 
my  hand  to  the 
irate  islanders. 

The  snap  -  shot 
given  above  is 
quite  unique.  It 
was  taken  by  one 
of  my  own  natives 
a  moment  before 
he  ran  through 
the  water  and 
slipped  into  the 
boat  as  we  shot 
out  from  the 
beach.  It  shows 
us  just   about   to 


'7l^> 


push    off,    surrounded    by  the 
^*  yelling  and  gesticulating  crowd 

of  hostile  savages.  "  A  narrow  escape  that,"  I 
remarked  to  my  boy  Togi  a  moment  or  two  after- 
wards, when  well  out  of  range  from  the  shore. 
"  Close  up  you  die  finish,"  was  the  laconic  reply. 

Bougainville, 
which  is  the  north- 
ern island  of  the 
Solomons,  is  peo- 
p  1  e  d  with  the 
wildest  and  most 
dangerous  canni- 
bals of  the  whole 
group.  Their 
savagery  is  un- 
bounded. For 
ever  on  the  war- 
path, they  practise 
every  conceivable 
kind  of  treachery 
to  enable  them  to 
])0ssess  another 
head,  to  eat  an- 
other victim.  I 
have  often  found 
them  wounded  in 
battle,  with  ugly 
open  cuts,  but  I 
do  not  recollect 
ever  having  seen 
one  with  his 
wounds  in  front ; 
they  always  seem 
to  have  been  hit 
when  in  the  act 
of   running  away. 


NATIVICS  OF  IH)Uf;AlNVILl.E 
ON  THE  WAKHATH  —  THEV 
ARE  THE  Wrr.DEST  AND 
MOST  DANGEROUS  CANNI- 
BALS OF  THE  SOLOMON 
GROUP. 

From  a  Photo. 


AMONG    THE    SOUTH    SEA    CANNIBALS. 


489 


Sometimes,  if  there  is  sufficient  distance  between 
ihe  combatants  for  them  to  be  out  of  range  of 
one  another,  they  will  make  a  formidable  stand, 
but  so  sure  as  the  stronger  side,  in  a  moment 
of  forgetfulness,  advances  a  little  on  the  foe, 
then  there  is  bound  to  l)e  a  stampede.  It  is 
on  these  occasions,  I  suppose,  that  the  crafty 
cannibals  get  hit  in  the  back.  The  photograph 
at  the  bottom  of  the  preceding  page  illustrates 
the  method  of  fighting  employed  by  the 
Bougainville  natives. 

The  inhabitants  of  these  islands  have  some 
curious  customs  re- 
garding marriage. 
\Vhen  the  young  men 
become  engaged  they 
do  not  wear  any  such 
inconspicuous  thing 
as  a  ring  ;  they  place 
on  their  heads  a 
conical  arrangement 
made  of  palm  leaves, 
and  laced  together 
with  fibre.  The  hair 
is  then  plaited  and 
crammed  into  this 
receptacle,  and  there 
it  remains  for  two 
years.  At  the  end  of 
the  prescribed  period 
the  hair  has  grown  to 
such  an  extent  that  it 
entirely  fills  the  appa- 
ratus, and  has  to  be 
cut  off  in  order  to 
remove  the  covering, 
which  is  then  hung 
up  intact  as  a  kind 
of  fetich.  'J'he  next 
photogra[)h  shows  a 
group  of  Solomon 
Islanders  wearing  this 
extraordinary  engage- 
ment headgear. 
What  would  civilized 
maidens  think  of  their 
fiances  carrying  about 
a  cumbrous  badge  of 
this  kind? 

On  one  occasion  a  woman  attached  to  my 
camp  died,  and  I  gave  immediate  orders  for  her 
burial.  It  appears,  although  I  did  not  know  it 
at  the  time,  that  it  is  customary  among  the 
coastal  natives  to  throw  their  dead  into  the  sea 
attached  to  a  large  piece  of  coral.  Later  in  the 
day  I  discovered  that  my  instructions  had  not 
been  carried  out.  Calling  a  native,  I  rated  liim 
soundly.  He  looked  very  grave  for  a  moment 
or    two,    and    then     said    in    a    voice    of    great 

Vol.  xi.-62. 


WHEN  THEY  BECOME  ENGAGED 
THE  YOUNG  MEN  OF  THE  Sf)I.O- 
MONS  rl.ACE  ON  THEIR  HEADS 
A  CUKIOUS  HEAOGKAR  MADE  OE 
I'AI.M  LEAVES  AND  HlIiRE,  WHICH 
IS    WORN    FOR    TWO   YEARS. 

From  a  Photo. 


sarcasm,  and  in  his  best  "  pidjin "  English, 
"  Master,  all  the  people  here  say  no  good  you 
plant  this  dead  woman,  she  no  grow.  She  die  ; 
finish.      She  belong  salt  water." 

Sometimes  the  young  girls  of  the  villages 
would  come  and  watch  me  with  the  greatest 
wonderment,  asking  why  I  had  come  to  their 
home  and  what  I  could  possibly  want  there, 
and  I  was  often  on  these  occasions  able  to  pro- 
cure surreptitious  photographs  of  them  as  they 
stood  about  on  the  coral  reefs  and  chatted  and 
sang  and  laughed,  half  in  fear  of  the  strange 
white  man,  who  now  and  again  hid  his 
head  beneath  a  black  cloth  attached  to  a 
still  stranger  instrument  which  might  at 
any  moment  go  ofT 
and  kill  them  all  on 
the  spot. 

\\'hile  on  my  way  to 
the   Solomon   Islands 
for   the   second   time 
I    was   asked    by   a 
trader  living  at  New 
Britain  to  kindly  take 
letters    and    pro- 
visions to  a  white 
man    stationed 
alone  on  a  small 
island  in  the  Sir 
Charles    Hardy 
group,  situated  a 
few  miles  to  the 
north  of  the  Solo- 
mons,  and    con- 
sequently   not    a 
very    great     dis- 
tance out  of  my 
way.      The    ship 
which  should 
have    carried 
the.se  stores  had  been 
sent  to   New   Ireland 
some    months   pre- 
viously,  but    had  not 
returned,   and   it   was 
feared    that    she   had 
been  captured  by  the 
natives  of  that  country.     This  afterwards  turned 
out  to  be  the  case,  all  hands  on  board  having 
been  murdered  and  the  ship  burned. 

On  arriving  at  the  Island  of  Nissam — where  I 
was  told  I  should  find  the  man.  an  Englishman 
— I  soon  made  out  the  Union  Jack  flying  on  a 
staff  about  a  hundred  yards  from  the  house. 
Not  a  sound  was  to  be  heard  save  an  occasional 
screech  of  some  strange  bird  or  the  lapping  of 
the  water  against  the  side  of  the  yacht  as  she 
glided  slowly  to  an  anchorage.  "  Fire  the 
Krupp.''   f  said  to  the  captain.     "  Perhaps  our 


490 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


friend  may  be  in  the  forest."  For  the  smallest 
island  in  these  latitudes  is  always  thickly 
timbered  and  entirely  covered  with  the  most 
prolific  undergrowth. 

After  a  time  I  could  distinctly  see  numbers  of 
dusky  figures  running  backwards  and  forwards 
through  the  trees  which  skirted  the  shore,  but 
still  there  were  no  signs  of  the  solitary  exile.  I 
made  signals  to  a  native  I  saw  crouching  among 
the  cocoanut  trees,  but  he  only  ran  away  into 
the  depths  of  the  bush.  "  There  must  be 
something  wrong,"  I  said,  "  or  the  trader 
woukl  undoubtedly  show  himself."  We  were 
by  this  time  exactly  opposite  his  little  dwelling 
and  only  fifty  yards  from  the  beach.  It 
took  but  a  few  moments  to  launch  a  boat, 
and,  with  four  of  the  crew  and  a  Winchester 
lying  across  my  knees,  we  pulled  hurriedly 
lo  the  landing  -  place.  Not  a  .soul  greeted 
us  as  we  dragged  the  boat  over  the  reef;  the 
place  looked  deserted.  I  called  aloud,  but 
no  reply  came.  Making  the  boat  fast,  we 
hastened  up  to  the  house,  nestling  so  peace- 
fully amongst  the  palm  trees,  and  climbing 
the  veranda  I  pushed  open  the  door.  Then, 
oh,  horror !  the  whole  secret  of  the  silence 
was  revealed  to  me.  There,  as  though  still 
struggling  to  get  upon  the  bed,  was  the  man  I 
had  come  to  find,  his  skull  split  and  his  clothes 
.saturated  with  blood.  He  had  evidently  been 
dead  some  days. 

After  a  time  two  New  Britain  natives,  who 
had  been  working  for  him,  appeared  on  the 
scene,  and  we  interrogated  them.  It  took  me 
two  days,  however,  to  piece  together  the  story  of 
the  murder.  It  appeared  tliat  the  trader  had 
been  anxiously  expecting  someone  to  come  with 
fresh  provisions  for  some  months,  and  at  last 
was  reduced  to  nothing  but  cocoanuts  and  rice, 
with  an  occasional  bird  which  he  shot.  Morn- 
ing after  morning,  evening  after  evening,  he  had 
hurried  to  the  point  wiiere  his  flagstaff  stood, 
:ir)(l  eagerly  strained  his  eyes  in  longing  ex- 
pectanr.y  for  the  ship  which  was  so  long  over- 
due, and  which  was  doomed  never  to  arrive. 
U'hat  was  he  to  do?  The  natives  of  the 
island    were    day    by   day    casting    eager    and 


hungry  eyes  at  him  and  his  little  store  of  red 
cloth  and  beads.  Day  by  day  they  became 
bolder  and  more  fearless,  and  as  the  time 
passed  by  and  no  one  came  to  him  he  grew 
down-hearted  and  deemed  himself  forgotten. 
At  last,  carried  away  by  their  lust  for  killing 
and  their  greed,  and  feeling  secure  from  detec- 
tion, the  natives  determined  upon  his  slaughter. 
This  was  ten  days  before  my  arrival.  One 
morning  the  white  man  was  stooping  to  dig  in 
his  little  garden  when  a  native,  creeping  silently 
and  stealthily  up  behind,  dealt  him  a  terrible 
blow  on  the  back  of  the  head  with  an  axe  he 
had  stolen  from  the  house.  It  was  but  the 
work  of  a  moment  for  the  trader  to  whip  out 
his  revolver  and  fire  at  his  assassin  ;  but,  alas  ! 
his  eye  was  dim  and  his  hand  unsteady  with  the 
loss  of  so  much  blood.  Again  and  again  he 
fired  at  the  retreating  figure,  and  then,  turning 
dizzy  and  weak,  stumbled  to  his  house  in  a 
dying  condition.  How  he  managed  to  get 
so  far  will  never  be  known.  Dragging  himself 
upon  the  veranda  he  crept  into  the  room, 
there  to  expire  in  a  vain  endeavour  to  get  upon 
his  bed. 

On  a  chair  I  found  a  Bible  with  his  name 
inscribed  on  the  fly-leaf,  and  eighteen  months 
afterwards  I  was  the  first  to  give  his  poor  old 
mother  in  England  the  sad  intelligence  of  his 
death.  This  account  of  how  he  died  was 
pieced  together  after  a  great  deal  of  trouble,  as 
the  natives  were  frightened  of  me  and  would 
hardly  show  themselves.  I  trust  that  by  this 
time  justice  has  been  meted  out  to  them. 

I  was  not  desirous  of  prolonging  my  visit, 
and  so  made  quick  preparations  for  departure  : 
but  when  on  shore  for  the  last  time,  to  give  the 
finishing  touches  to  the  grave  I  had  helped  to 
dig  and  the  small  cross  surrounded  by  a  neat 
little  paling  I  had  put  up  to  mark  the  sad  spot, 
I  saw  a  party  of  natives  driving  in  front  of  them 
four  or  five  poor,  thin,  miserable-looking  women, 
all  tied  by  the  legs.  They  were  taking  them  as 
a  present  to  a  chief  near  by.  Whether  he 
would  kill  and  eat  them  in  their  present  con- 
dition, or  wait  a  month  or  two  and  feed  them 
up,  I  did  not  care  to  inquire. 


(To  be  conlmtied.) 


BY   THE 

Viscount  de  Soissons. 


The    adventures     of     two    daring    automobilists    who    set    out    to    cross    the    Island    of    Sumatra   on    a 

motor-car.       The    natives    were    extremely    hostile,    wild     animals    tried    conclusions    with    the    strange 

snorting  apparition    that    had    invaded    their  domain,  and   altogether  the  trip  was   a   most  exciting  one, 

and  one  which   it  is  probable  will  not  be  repeated  for  many  years  to  come. 


N  the  1 2th  of  September  last  Mr. 
Kapferer  and  his  friend  Mr.  Knoops, 
both  residents  of  Sumatra  and 
ardent  automobilists,  decided  to 
cross  that  island  in  a  motor-car, 
journeying  from  Palembang  to  Lahat,  via 
Moeara  Enim. 

The  car  in  which  this  ambitious  journey  was 
to  be  undertaken  was  a  three-and-a-half  horse- 
power De  Dion  voiturette,  and  the  day  selected 
for  the  start  saw  the  two  travellers  making  a 
minute  examination  of  every  part  of  the 
mechanism,  so  as  to  avoid  awkward  mishaps  in 
the  jungle,  where  a  breakdown  might  have 
most  serious  consequences. 

A  well-fitted  tool-box  was  taken,  and  another 
containing  a  number  of  duplicate  parts.  In  the 
back  of  the  car,  usually  occupied  by  a  servant, 
were  placed  two  valises  containing  the  outfit 
necessary  for  the  eight  days'  run  across  country, 
and  over  the  valises  were  strapped  two  large 
square  tin  cans,  containing  about  forty,  litres  of 
benzine,  which,  with  fifteen  litres  in  the  reser- 
voir, made  a  total  of  fifty-five  litres  of  this  liquid, 
so  precious  under  the  circumstances.  A  few 
boxes  of  preserves,  biscuits,  etc.,  completed  the 
cargo  of  the  car. 


Mr.  Knoops,  expecting  to  meet  some  tigers 
or  wild  boars,  with  which  the  country  abounds, 
took  a  \Vinchester  carbine,  while  Mr.  Kapferer's 
sole  equipment  was  a  pair  of  motoring  glasses 
as  a  protection  against  the  large  mosquitoes, 
whose  stings  cause  big  and  painful  swellings. 

At  nine  o'clock  in  the  evening  the  travellers 
left  Palembang,  with  all  the  boys  and  dogs  of 
the  town  at  their  heels.  The  distance  between 
Palembang  and  Moeara  Enim  is  about  one 
hundred  and  eighty-five  miles,  and  there  is  ?. 
kind  of  road  for  some  part  of  the  way.  For 
forty  miles  out  of  Palembang,  however,  the 
road  does  not  exist — it  is  "  dead,"  as  the  natives 
say.  The  vast  swamps  that  surround  the  town 
have  swallowed  it  up  in  most  places,  and  in 
others  the  piles  on  which  it  was  originally  built 
'have  rotted  away,  causing  the  road  to  collapse 
into  the  quagmire. 

In  order  to  reach  a  highway  on  which  they 
could  travel,  therefore,  the  travellers  were 
obliged  to  go  by  water  to  Loerog,  where  the 
road  begins  again.  This  town  is  also  the  first 
of  the  stations  where  petroleum  is  pumped  from 
the  earth.  Loerog  is  reached  by  a  narrow,  low- 
banked,  and  shallow  river,  navigable  only  to  the 
native  praus,    which  are    big   dug-oUt   canoes. 


492 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


I' rout  a\ 


THE    AUKIVAI-    i>F     IIIK    MOiOR-CAK    AT    I.OEHOG    ON    liOAKD   A    NATIVE   CANOE. 


[Photo. 


These  craft,  common  to  all  Eastern  islands, 
draw  so  little  water  that  they  seem  to  skim 
along  the  surface. 

On  one  oi  ihese  praus,  with  infinite  difficulty, 
the  motor-car  was  loaded,  the  boat  heeling  over 
to  such  an  extent  that  for  a  moment  the 
travellers  thought  she  would  capsize ;  but 
presently  the  big  canoe  righted  itself  and  glided 
away  over  the  surface  of  the  water. 

The  boatmen  lit  the  lamps  that  hung  in  the 
stern,  and  slowly,  with  the  current,  the  craft 
drifted  down  past  the  floating  houses,  which  are 
built  on  rafts.  At  this  hour,  late  for  the  early- 
rising  natives,  almost  everyone  was  in  bed,  and 
beside  the  travellers  only  a  few  belated  fisher- 
men were  about,  seated  in  the  sterns  of  their 
boats,  and  attracting  the  fish  by  the  light  of 
lanterns  and  torches.  Soon  Palembang  was  left 
behind,  and  the  boat  glided  along  the  dark 
waters  of  the  Moesi  River. 

ICarly  in  tlie  morning  they  arrived  at  a  creek, 
at  the  bottom  of  which  was  the  little  native 
village  where  the  adventurous  couple  proposed 
to  resume  their  journey.  Hut  here  a  problem 
presented  itself.  The  car  had  to  be  got  to  land, 
Ijut  there  was  an  obstacle  in  the  shape  of  a  strip 
of  fathomless  black  mud,  several  yards  in  width, 
bordering  the  shore,  which  it  was  impossible  for 
the  motor  to  pass  over.  After  a  consultation  a 
simple  expedient  was  adopted.  Planks  were 
brought  down  from  the  village,  and  a  road  made 
on  the  mud  to  the  side  of  the  boat ;  the  motor 
was  lowered  on  to  this  platform,  and  then  hauled 
ashore  by  means  of  ropes.  Presently  the  little 
voiturette  was  working,  and  its  regular  "  teuf, 
teuf "  showed  that  it  was  ready  for  the  journey. 

At  first  the  road  was  very  bad  and  the  motor 
moved  Ijut  slowly,  mana'uvring  round  and 
over  rocks,  dead  trees,  and  slippery  vegetation. 
Soon,  however,  the  path  improving,  the  two 
gentlemen  were  travelling  at  the  rate  of  twenty 
miles   an   hour.     But   as   they   sped  easily   on 


through  the  woods 
the  car  suddenly 
came  to  a  stand- 
still, and  when- 
the  travellers  got 
down  and  made 
an  examination 
they  discovered 
that  the  electric 
communication 
had  been  broken. 
This,  of  course, 
took  some  time 
to  find  out,  and 
Kapferer  and 
Knoops  were  so 
absorbed  by  their 
work  that  they  at  first  failed  to  notice  that  they 
were  surrounded  by  a  number  of  monkeys,  who 
took  the  greatest  possible  interest  in  their  move- 
ments, some  of  them  actually  climbing  on  to 
the  car.  Presently,  finding  that  some  tools  and 
wire  were  needed,  Mr.  Kapferer  went  to  the 
tool-chest,  but  found  to  his  dismay  that  it  was 
open  and  the  coil  of  wire  missing  !  Seeing  the 
monkeys,  he  at  once  guessed  who  had  done  the 
mischief. 

"  Oh,  you  little  villains  !  "  he  cried,  shaking 
his  fist  at  the  impudent  staring  monkeys,  who 
scampered  away,  jabbering  wildly,  "  you  have 
robbed  our  chest  !  " 

For  three  long  hours  the  two  men  endeavoured 
to  put  the  machine  right,  but  all  in  vain — it 
was  absolutely  essential  to  have  some  wire. 
Looking  up  quite  by  chance,  Mr.  Knoops 
noticed  a  monkey  in  the  middle  of  the  road 
hugging  the  missing  coil.  Seizing  his  Win- 
chester he  made  ready  to  shoot  the  brute  ;  but 
Mr.  Kapferer,  seeing  that  his  friend  was  excited, 
and  not  wishing  to  frighten  the  beast  away  if 
the  shot  missed,  took  up  a  hammer  and  held  it 
out  to  the  monkey.  I'he  animal  was  curious, 
and  presently  edged  forward  to  take  the  tool 
offered  to  him,  when  he  was  promptly  stunned 
by  a  quick  blow.  The  wire  recovered,  the 
motor  was  soon  in  order  and  the  pair  started 
again,  bouncing  up  and  down  over  the 
inequalities  of  the  road.  Mr.  Knoops  held  on 
tightly,  fearing  an  upset,  but  Mr.  Kapferer,  who 
was  steering,  did  not  slacken  speed,  and  the 
steep  descents  and  sharp  curves  were  negotiated 
without  mishap. 

Suddenly  out  of  the  woods  ahead  there 
stepped  a  great  wild  boar,  who  stood  staring  at 
the  strange  snorting  animal  which  was  coming 
towards  him.  He  (juickly  made  up  his  mind 
that  this  was  an  enemy,  and,  putting  his  head 
down,  rushed  at  the  motor,  striking  the  left- 
hand  back  wheel  with  a  terrific  crash.     Some- 


ACROSS    SUMATRA    IN    A    MOTOR-CAR. 


493 


thing  broke,  but  the  travellers  did  not  stop  to 
see  what  it  was,  but  got  away  from  the  furious 
animal  as  soon  as  they  could,  leaving  him 
standing  in  the  road  shaking  his  great  head. 

After  half  an  hour's  fi\st  running  a  catupofig, 
or  village,  was  seen  ahead.  At  the  unusual 
noise  of  the  engine  the  inhabitants  left  their 
houses  and  rushed  out  into  the  road.  Seeing 
the  strange,  white,  puffing  monster,  the  women 
and  children  ran  back  to  the  houses,  crying 
aloud  that  it  was  the 
devil  !  The  motor- 
ists' ugly  black  gog- 
gles, too,  did  not 
tend  to  reassure 
them.  The  men-folk 
were  astonished  also, 
but  did  not  give  way 
to  terror,  and  quietly 
watched  the  unusual 
apparition  draw  up 
in  their  village. 

The  wild  boar,  it 
was  found,  had  so 
damaged  the  tyre 
and  the  spokes  of 
the  wheel  that  it 
was  necessary  to  stop 
for  repairs.  The 
faces  of  the  natives 
were  not  at  all  re- 
assuring, and  the 
chief  in  particular 
looked  a  regular  cut- 
throat. Therefore, 
when  several  guns 
were  fired  off —  on 
hearinc;  which  the 
natives  snatched  up 
their  weapons  and 
ran  about  shouting 
wildly — Knoops  and 
Kapferer  sprang 
hurriedly  into  their 
car  with  the  inten- 
tion of  getting  away. 
They  presently 
learned,     however, 

that  the  shots  tiiat  had  alarmed  them  were  fired 
by  some  native  hunters  who  had  just  returned, 
and  therefore  dismounted  again,  glad  not  to  be 
forced  to  continue  their  journey  with  a  damaged 
wheel. 

A  little  later  the  priest  of  the  village  came  to 
visit  them.  He  was  a  "  hadji  "  who  had  been 
to  Mecca,  and  was  therefore  considered  to  be 
the  wisest  man  in  the  village.  He  had  come  to 
look  at  the  strange  beast — the  motor — and  after 
having  examined  it  carefully  asked,  gravely  : — 


J-'?oiii  a] 


"  How  is  it  that  your  waggon  goes  without  a 
horse  ?  " 

"  My  dear  fnan,"  answered  Kapferer,  smiling, 
"  I  have  three  big  horses  and  one  small  horse 
in  that  iron  box  there  !  " 

The  astonishment  of  the  priest  and  his  flock 
was  redoubled,  and  they  crowded  round  the 
car  apparently  looking  for  the  horses.  The 
travellers  were  just  filling  their  cooling-pipes 
with  cocoanut  milk — the  water  brought  to  them 

being  so  full  of  sand 
and  mud  that  they 
could  not  use  it — 
when  an  agonized 
shriek  caused  them 
to  look  round  in 
alarm.  They  saw  the 
old  "  hadji  "  running 
hither  and  thither, 
howling  out  curses 
and  holding  his 
hand.  In  his  thirst 
for  knowledge  he 
had  begun  to  ex- 
amine the  levers  and 
had  jammed  his 
hand  somewhere  in 
the  motor  !  The 
sight  of  this  vener- 
able old  man  rush- 
ing madly  about, 
cursing  volubly,  with 
his  beard  flying  and 
his  turban  awry,  sent 
the  two  friends  into 
shrieks  of  laughter. 
Their  mirth,  how- 
ever, only  made  the 
matter  worse,  and  it 
was  evident  that  the 
natives  looked  upon 
the  mishap  to  their 
"hadji"  as  the 
deliberate  work  of 
the  strangers.  Their 
cries  and  gesticula- 
tions became  unmis- 
takably hostile,  and 
they  crowded  round  the  car  in  a  menacing 
fashion. 

There  was  no  time  to  be  lost,  and  so 
Knoops  and  Kapferer  hurried  into  the  car  and 
started  off.  A  hundred  hands  seized  difi"erent 
parts  of  the  motor  to  prevent  their  escape,  but 
three-and-a-half  horse-power  soon  pulled  the 
natives  over,  and  the  car  spun  along,  followed 
by  a  host  of  howling  savages.  Unfortunately, 
the  speed  lever  jammed,  and  the  motor  could 
only  go  on  the  "  first  belt,"  which  only  gave  it  a 


[J\':oto. 


494 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


pace  easily  maintained  by  the  swift-footed 
natives.  Brandishing  their  long  knives  they 
came  on  like  fast  hounds,  and  some  of  them  ran 
by  a  short  path  through  the  wood  to  cut  the 
motor  off  at  a  bend  of  the  road.  This  was 
running  the  gauntlet  with  a  vengeance  ! 

Seizing  his  carbine,  Mr.  Knoops  fired  over 
the  back  of  the  seat  at  the  pursuing  savages, 
while  Mr.  Kapferer  crouched  down  and 
tugged  desperately  at   the   speed   lever,   which 


sun-helmet  and  half-a-dozen  stuck  in  the  back 
of  the  seat  and  in  the  foot-board,  but  presently 
the  savages  were  out  of  range  and  the  danger 
was  past.  For  two  hours  Knoops  and  Kapferer 
did  not  stop,  running  at  full  speed  until  they 
reached  the  second  petroleum  station  at  Moeara 
Enim. 

The  heat  of  the  sun,  combined  with  the 
excitement  of  their  adventure,  gave  Mr.  Kap- 
ferer a  bad  headache,  and  he  rested  for  some 


SEIZING    HIS   CARBINE,    MR.    KNOOPS    FiRKD   OVER   THE    BACK    OF   THE   SEAT. 


obstinately  remained  jammed.  To  the  utter 
dismay  of  the  travellers,  at  this  critical 
moment  the  car  stopped  short,  and  was  only 
started  again  by  a  superhuman  effort.  By  this 
time,  however,  the  first  of  the  savages  were 
upon  them  again.  They  seized  hold  of  the  tail- 
board with  yells  of  triumph,  but,  to  the  white 
men's  delight,  let  go  again  with  screams  of  pain. 
The  cooling-pipes,  being  but  scantily  filled  with 
cocoanut  milk,  were  almost  red-hot,  and  so  was 
the  tail-board. 

Then  suddenly  the  lever  worked  again ; 
"teuf,  teuf"  went  the  engine,  and  the  motor 
hurled  itself  through  the  press  of  men,  mowing 
down  the  savages  who  had  expected  to  cut  the 
car  off.  Howls  of  disappointment  and  pain 
came  from  every  side,  and  spears  whistled 
round  the  travellers.  One  pierced  Mr.  Kapferer's 


time  in  a  little  house  belonging  to  the  engineer, 
in  which  the  greatest  luxury  of  the  jungle, 
electric  lighting,  was  to  be  found.  After  a  good 
rest  Mr.  Kapferer  took  a  stroll  through  the 
native  campong  to  have  a  look  round.  As  it 
happened  he  saw  a  procession  passing  from  one 
house  to  another  at  the  end  of  the  village.  On 
questioning  the  natives  as  to  what  was  the  mean- 
ing of  the  procession,  he  was  told  that  it  was 
"ambil  anak,"  which  means  "taking  a  child." 
This,  of  course,  only  puzzled  him  the  more,  but 
after  further  questioning  he  learnt  that,  if  a  young 
man  cannot  pay  "djudjur"  (money)  to  his  lady- 
love's father,  he  cannot  take  her  away — for  the 
custom  of  the  country  says  he  nmst  pay  for  his 
wife.  Failing  to  make  payment  he  must  marry 
in  the  fashion  which  is  called  "ambil  anak." 
This  means  that  he  must  go  and  reside  in  his 


ACROSS    SUMATRA    IN    A    MOTOR-CAR. 


495 


father-in-law's  house  and  do  all  the  work  his  wife 
would  do  were  she  not  married.  This,  of  course, 
is  very  distasteful  to  the  men,  wlio  like  their 
freedom,  and  as  but  few  are  rich  enough  to  pay 
for  their  wives  marriage  is  rare.  The  Dutch 
Government  has  done  everything  it  possibly 
can  to  abolish  this  custom,  but  it  is  so  deeply 
rooted  that  the  efforts  have  been  quite  useless. 

Continuing  his  stroll,  Kapferer  went  towards 
a  wharf  he  saw  in  the  distance.  He  walked  to 
the  edge  of  the  bamboo  floor  of  the  structure 


J' roll!  a\ 


A   HALT    IN    THE  JUNGLE. 


and  stood  there  looking  at  the  river.  Presently 
a  native  shouted  to  him  that  the  flooring  was 
rotten,  whereupon  he  hastily  retraced  his  steps, 
but  walked  too  heavily  on  the  frail  timbers,  and 
fell  through  as  far  as  his  waist,  startling  half-a- 
dozen  crocodiles  which  had  taken  shelter  under- 
neath. The  monsters,  on  seeing  that  it  was  a 
man  who  had  disturbed  them,  rushed  back  with 
their  jaws  open.  For  a  moment  the  traveller 
hung  between  life  and  death,  struggling  franti- 
cally to  pull  himself  out  of  the  trap.  Luckily 
he  was  able  to  raise  himself  just  as  the  jaws  of 
the  foremost  crocodile  closed  with  a  vicious 
snap,  wrenching  off  the  heel  of  his  boot. 

On  his  return  to  the  engineer's  house  his 
scared  face  caused  much  amusement,  although 
no  one  minimized  the  narrowness  of  his  escape 
from  mutilation  or  death. 

Half  an  hour  later — it  being  then  about  three 
o'clock  in  the  afternoon  —  Knoops  and  Kapferer 
started  again,  passing  on  their  way  one  of  the 
petrol  pumps,  which  spout  out  the  oil  like 
fountains. 


At  a  place  called  Bandjar  Sari  the  travellers 
for  the  first  time  made  the  acquaintance  of  a 
curious  custom,  fortunately  prevalent  among 
but  few  tribes.  In  a  aunpofij^  situated  some 
distance  away  they  saw,  by  chance,  a  hut  in  a 
tree.  From  the  platform  outside  this  building 
were  swinging  several  big  bundles  carefully 
wrapped  in  matting.  They  questioned  the 
natives  as  to  what  these  were,  and  were  told  that 
they  were  the  bodies  of  members  of  the  chief's 
family  who  had  died  since  the  late  chief.      They 

were  now  wait- 
ing to  be  buried 
with  the  present 
chief  when  he 
died! 

On  leaving  the 
village  the  travel- 
lers heard  shouts 
behind  them. 
They  stopped  in 
order  to  ascer- 
tain the  cause  of 
the  uproar, 
whereupon  the 
chief  told  them 
that  his  knife 
had  been  stolen, 
and  that  they 
were  suspected 
of  the  theft. 
The  natives  sur- 
rounded them, 
seized  them,  and, 
in  spiteof  their  re- 
sistance, brought 
them  back  to  the  village,  although  the  motorists 
repeatedly  protested  their  innocence.  Finally, 
after  much  palaver,  the  missing  knife  was  found 
under  a  boy's  shirt,  and  the  two  travellers  were 
allowed  to  go. 

About  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  they 
entered  the  jungle,  which  here  was  of  a  most 
savage  character.  The  creeping  plants  were 
more  numerous  and  the  rond  still  more  uneven 
than  usual.  Here  they  had  the  misfortune  to 
get  three  punctures,  which  delayed  them  con- 
siderably. Directly  night  fell  a  weird  pheno- 
menon was  witnessed.  The  motorists  noticed 
that  there  were  myriads  of  luminous  spots  on 
the  ground,  and  even  the  fibres  on  the  trunks 
of  the  trees  shone  brightly.  This  brilliance,  it 
seems,  was  due  to  some  phosphorescent  fungus, 
which  lit  up  the  whole  forest  in  a  most  e.xtra- 
ordinnry  manner.* 

Suddenly    Mr.     Knoops     shouted     to     Mr. 


[P/ioio. 


This  curious  phenomenon  is  also  to  be  seen  in   the  Philippines, 
described   in   Part  II.  of  "The  Pursuit  of  Captain   Victor,"  in 


as 

this  issue.— Ed. 


496 


THE    WIDE   WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


Kapferer,  who  was,  as  usual, 
steering,  to  put  on  all  speed. 
When  the  latter  did  not  at 
once  accede  to  his  friend's 
request,  Knoops  seized  the 
lever  and  pressed  it  as  far  as 
it  would  go.  After  a  few 
minutes  of  mad  running  they 
slackened  their  speed,  and 
when  Mr.  Kapferer  questioned 
his  friend  as  to  the  reason 
for  his  strange  behaviour  he 
answered  : — 

"  Did  you  not  notice  that 
pitch-black  tree  about  a  hun- 
dred yards  from  the  road  ? 
It  was  the  deadly  upas  tree, 
and,  as  you  probably  know, 
its  poison  is  so  strong  that  it 
kills  every  animal  that  passes 
under  its  boughs  ;  every  bird 
lh;it  flies  over  it  falls  dead; 
and  even  a  man  cannot  pass 
It  without  being  poisoned." 

Mr.  Ka[)ferer  smiled.   "And 
you   believe   in  all    those  silly 
tales  ?  "  he  said.     "  The  truth 
about  the  upas  tree  is  that  its 
sap  IS  a  deadly  poison,  which 
oozes     abundantly    from     the 
cracks  of  the  bark.     As  it  has 
a    very    agreeable    smell    the 
animals  lick  it,  and  of  course 
fall  dead  ,  that  is  the  reason 
why  one  finds  so  many  dead 
animals  under  it.     The  stories  told  by  travellers 
alKjiit  the  upas  tree  are  not  to  be  found  among 
the  natives  of  Sumatra,   and  that  is  i)roof  that 
they  are  not  true." 

When  they  came  to  Lahat,  the  next  i^umping 
station,  the  travellers  discovered,  to  their  intense 
annoyance,  that  the  essence  that  had  been  in 
the  can  had  leaked  out  through  a  hole  made  by 
a  sharp  Malay  kris.  Without  this  motive  power 
they  could  not  leave  Lahat.  The  situation  was 
not  very  amusing,  for  the  next  boat  was  not  due 
for  a  montii,  and  there  was  no  way  of  having 
benzine  sent  from  I'alembang.  Here  the  old  story 
alK)ut  necessity  and  invention  was  repeated 
again,  for,  after  much  thought,  it  occurred  to 
them  to  distil  benzine  from  the  naphtha  which 
is  .il)undantly  supplied  by  the  springs.  They 
accordingly  set  to  work  and  constructed  their 
distillery.  An  old  tin  can  that  had  formerly 
contained  greasing  oil  was  made  into  a  distilling 
caldron,  and  into  this  was  inserted  a  half-inch 
pil)e  to  take  away  the  steam  of  the  generator, 


THEY   SEl    TO    WORK    AND    CONSTKUCIED    IHEIK    DISTILI.EN V. 


which  was  put  under  pressure.  Another  long 
tube  led  from  the  caldron  along  the  bottom  of 
a  brook  into  a  bottle.  This  was  the  cooling 
plant,  and  after  a  little  while  yielded  an  excellent 
essence,  which  enabled  the  motorists  to  continue 
their  journey,  which  was  finally  completed  without 
further  incidents. 

Considering  the  arduous  nature  of  the  journey 
and  the  terrible  condition  of  the  roads  the  little 
De  Dion  voilurette  did  wonderfully  well  and 
proved  itself  a  thoroughly  reliable  machine. 
Mr.  Kapferer — from  whose  diary  this  narrative 
has  been  constructed  —  speaks  very  highly 
of  it. 

It  is  safe  to  say  that  at  every  native  campong 
they  passed  through  the  story  of  the  strange 
snorting  beast  carrying  two  men  on  its  back  will 
be  told  for  years  to  come  ;  and  in  time,  if  no 
other  motors  visit  them,  as  is  extremely  likely, 
the  narrative  may  become  a  fantastical  legend 
which  will  puzzle  future  investigators  into  the 
native  folk-lore. 


TlAMP I 


Baf^t 

Keinnedv 


"^    X.    THE  LITTLE  REPUBLICy^ 


A  description  of  the 
tiny  Republic  of  An- 
dorra, buried  in  the 
heart  of  the  moun- 
tains. Our  commis- 
sioner made  friends 
with  many  of  the  An- 
dorranos,  including 
their  President,  and 
was  accorded  the 
privilege  of  inspect- 
ing the  quaint  council 
chamber  of  the 
Republic. 


jlT  half-past  four  in  the  afternoon  I 
left  the  posada  in  Seo  de  Urgel  and 
taced  for  Andorra.  I  had  come  to 
the  conclusion  that  the  capital  of 
the  little  republic  was  about  twenty- 
five  kilbmetros  away  through  the  mountains. 
I  would  get  there  just  about  the  time  that  dark- 
ness was  settling  down,  providing  that  my  con- 
clusion was  right  as  to  the  distance.  At  dinner 
in  the  posada  I  had  been  given  various  esti- 
mates of  it.  A  jovial-looking  priest  who  sat 
next  to  me  assured  me  that  it  was  "  trienta 
cinco "  (thirty-five)  kilbmetros.  A  bearded 
Catalan  gave  it  forth  as  his  opinion  that  it  was 
but  seventeen.  He  was  a  person  of  a  hopeful 
cast  of  mind  so  far  as  the  reckoning  of  dis- 
tances was  concerned.  The  girl  who  waited  on 
us  at  table  said  it  was  thirty.  And  so  the  esti- 
mates wandered  u[i  and  down.  I  listened  to 
them  with  politeness,  and  in  the  end  I  took 
my  reckoning  of  the  distance  according  to  the 
law  of  averages. 

When  I  was  paying  my  score  the  keeper  of  the 
posada  tried  the  old  fann'liar  game  of  working  off 
a  Filipino  peseta  upon  me  in  the  change  that  he 
was  giving  me.      But  I  rejected  it  with  calm. 

Up  the  main  street  of  the  town  I  trudged  with 
my  knapsack  on  my  back.  I  would  be  out  of 
Spain  now  in  a  few  hours,  and  I  was  feeling  glad. 

Vol.  xi.— 63. 


It  was  not  that  I  didn't  like  the  country  ;  it  was 
rather  that  I  had  grown  tired  of  the  journey.  I 
wanted  to  get  to  the  end  of  it,  and  after  that  to 
get  to  England  as  quick  as  possible,  so  that  I  could 
hear  once  more  the  good  old  English  language 
sounding  around  me.  For  four  months  and  a 
half  I  had  heard  hardly  a  word  of  it.  Four 
months  and  a  half  since  I  had  entered  Spain  ! 
It  seemed  a  long,  long  time. 

The  town  broke  off  suddenly  and  I  turned  off 
on  to  the  path  that  led  to  the  pass  going  through 
the  mountains.  It  was  a  beautiful  October  after- 
noon and  the  sun  was  shining  gloriously.  It 
was  warm,  but  the  warmth  had  in  it  a  quality 
of  freshness  and  exhilaration.  A  stimulating, 
fine,  joyous  warmth.  And  the  mountains  were 
coloured  in  a  strange  and  wonderful  way.  And 
the  air  had  a  quality  as  of  some  ethereal, 
magical  wine. 

Soldiers  !  I  saw  them  in  the  distance  wind- 
ing through  the  pass.  The  soldiers  of  Spain  ! 
Red  and  drab  and  black  and  white,  and  many 
differing  shades,  and  the  glinting  from  the 
barrels  of  Mausers  mingled  into  a  blare  of 
colour.  I  could  see  them  now -one  long,  slow- 
winding,  straggling  line.  I  stepped  from  the 
path  and  waited.  On  and  on  they  came.  They 
were  up  to  where  I  was  standing  now— and  I 
saluted.     These  soldiers  of  Spain  ! 


498 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


Men  from  the  whole  length  and  breadth  of 
this  fine  country— men  of  different  castes  and 
moulds.  Hard-faced,  powerful-looking  Catalans 
— men  from  Arragon — sullen-faced  men  from 
Castilia— men  with  the  look  of  the  mountains 
about  them — men  from  Andalusia  with  Moorish- 
tinged  blood.  Men  from  the  north,  south,  east, 
west,  and  centre  of  Spain.  Men  from  the  sea- 
board and  mountains  and  hills  and  plains. 
Going  along. 

'J'hey  were  gone  now  and  I  was  going  alone 
through  the  pass.  Down  beneath  me  the  River 
V'alira  .sang  as  it  went  on  its  way  through  the 
bottom  of  the  valley.  Ahead  of  me  and  far  up 
above  there  towered  mountains,  snow-clad  and 
shining  in  the  sun.  Yonder  the  side  of  the 
mountain  was  cultivated.  And  yonder  a  man 
was  keeping  watch  over  cattle  that  were  brows- 
ing along  the  bank  of  the  sniging,  swift-going 
rivL-r.  I  could  hear  the 
bells  tinkling  through  the 
strange,  wonderful  water- 
song.  And  through  miles 
of  distance  I"  could  see 
the  white  gleam  of  a 
house  set   high    up  aloft 


"'CU/.IITOS   KIL6.METR0S   FRONTERO?"     I    ASKED." 


on  the  mountain  side.  At  the  base  of  the  pass 
the  mountains  were  green.  Higher  up  they 
changed  to  brown,  and  higher  still  they  changed 
to  dark  gold.  And  up  over  all  was  a  wonderful 
crown  of  soft  white. 

"  Buenos,  seiior,"  I  said,  in  salutation  to  a 
man  who  passed  me  on  the  path. 

He  was  a  mountaineer,  old  and  worn,  and 
round  his  waist  was  wound  a  red  cloth.  On  his 
head  was  a  strange-shaped  hat.  He  had  the 
hard,  strong  face  of  the  Catalan. 

"  Buenos,"  he  said,  as  he  went  slowly  past. 
How  different  were  these  mountains  from  the 
mountains  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  !  In  the  Sierra 
Nevada  there  was  grandeur,  but  it  was  the 
grandeur  of  bareness  and  desolation  and  silence. 
Here  in  the  Pyrenees  there  were  greenness  and 
verdure  and  life,  and  magicalness  of  colour  and 
outline,  and  the  song  of  the  waters.  There  was 
something  human  in  the  beauty  of 
the  Pyrenees — something  that  a 
man  might  understand. 

"Cuantos  kilometros  frontero?" 
I  asked  in  my  curious  SjxTnish  of 
a  man  who  was  driving  three  mules 
along  the  path.  I  had  been  going 
now  for  a  couple  of  hours,  and  I 
was  anxious  to  know  how  far  I  was 
off  from  the  frontier.  I  felt  anxious 
to  be  out  of  Spain.  W'hy,  I  could 
not  have  told.  But  I  was  beginning 
to  feel  excitement  as  I  got  nearer 
and  nearer  to  Andorra. 

"  Dos  horas  "  (two  hours),  said 
the  man. 

"Ah!"  I  said  to  him  again. 
"  No  cuantos  horas  —  cuantos 
kilometros  ?  " 

But  he  was  unable  to  tell  me. 
He  evidently  only  knew  how  long 
it  would  take  him  to  get  his  mules 
there,  and  I  suppose  that  he — in 
common  with  all  people — felt  that 
his  sort  of  knowledge  was  the  know- 
ledge. And  both  of  us  passed  on 
our  way  without  further  exchange 
of  words.  I'^or  a  long  time  I  could 
hear  him  cracking  his  whip  behind 
me  in  the  mountains. 

At  last  I  came  to  a  turn  in  the 
pass,  and  before  me  there  opened 
out  a  beautiful  little  valley.  It 
was  a  perfect  oval  surrounded  by 
mountains.  Off  in  the  middle  of 
it  I  saw  a  man  coming  towards  me.  I  quickened 
my  pace. 

"Erontero? "  I  asked,  as  we  both  stopped 
face  to  face. 

"Si,"  he  answered,  and  he  pointed  behind  me. 


A    TRAMP    L\     Sl'AlX. 


499 


I  had  passed  the  frontier  without  knowing  it. 
I  had  expected  that  there  would  have  been  some 
sign  to  mark  the  division  of  the  countries — 
perhaps  a  station  occupied  by  soldiers  or  guards. 
I  had  expected  a  rigorous  examination  of  my 
knapsack.  But  there  was  no  sign  of  anything. 
The  frontier  was,  indeed,  but  an  imaginary  line. 

The  man  I  had  stopped  began  to  tell  me  a 
number  of  things  concerning  the  frontier.  He 
spoke  in  Catalan.  I  did  not  understand  all  he 
said,  but  I  got  the  general  drift  of  it.  He  knew 
the  very  rock,  the  very  stone,  through  which 
the  imaginary  line  penetrated.  He  was  a 
fine,  stalwart  figure  of  a  man,  and  I  judged 
him  to  be  about  fifty  years  old.  He  spoke  in 
rather  a  loud,  boisterous  manner — as  if  he  were 
half  drunk.  But  I  may  be  wronging  him.  It 
may  have  been  but  the  exhilaration  of  the  pure 
mountain  air. 

He  told  me  that  he  belonged  to  the  Republic 
of  Andorra — that  he  was  an  Andorrano.  I  was 
equally  confiding.  I  told  him  that  I  was  an 
Englishman.  To  this  he  said  "  Buenos."  And 
we  shook  hands  and  left  each  other,  mutually 
pleased. 

So  I  was  out  of  Spain  at  last.  I  was  in  a  country 
where  there  were  different  laws  and  different 
people  and  a  different  way  of  looking  at  life.  I 
felt  an  immense  relief.  For  the  last  month  in 
Spain  I  had  felt  unsafe.  I  had  felt  that  some- 
thing was  hanging  over  me.  It  may  have  been 
that  the  long,  lonesome  tramp  from  Madrid  to 
Zaragoza  had  got  on  my  nerves.  I  was  not 
afraid,  but  I  felt  unsafe.  The  feeling  was  with 
me  even  in  Seo  de  Urgel — but  a  few  hours 
before.  And  now  it  was  all  gone  from  me.  I 
felt  almost  as  if  I  could  have  taken  the  cart- 
ridges out  of  my  revolver. 

Over  on  the  left  side  of  the  river  I  could  see 
San  Julian.  I  could  see  the  tower  of  a  church 
rising  up.  I  crossed  a  low  bridge  and  soon  I 
was  in  the  village — a  quaint,  strange  village  of 
narrow,  short  streets  paved  with  round  stones. 
The  houses  were  low  and  curious-looking  and 
very  old.  One  could  tell  that  they  were  very 
old  by  the  set  and  the  colour  of  them.  Low, 
strong-made  houses,  with  thick  walls.  The  dogs 
that  came  to  see  me  were  not  as  the  dogs  of 
Spain.  There  was  an  air  of  peace  about  them. 
One  of  them  even  wagged  its  tail  as  it  came  up 
10  me.  The  people  were  not  as  the  people  of 
Spain  ;  but  where  the  difference  lay  I  could  not 
have  told.  It  was  something,  perhaps,  in  their 
air.  They  had  the  freshness  of  colour  and  the 
build  of  figure  of  a  people  of  the  north.  The 
women  had  not  the  grace  of  the  women  of 
Spain,  but  they  looked  fine  and  strong.  From 
the  windows  of  the  houses  and  from  the  roofs 
of  the  houses   there  hung  great  quantities    of 


tobacco  leaf.     It  was  there  drying,  and  it  filled 
the  air  with  a  curious  smell. 

I  walked  through  the  village  at  a  rapid  pace, 
saluting  the  people  as  I  passed. 

After  leaving  San  Julian  I  again  crossed  the 
Valira.  And  then  it  was  that  the  path  became 
a  trifle  difficult  to  negotiate.  And  the  reason 
of  Andorra's  freedom  began  gradually  to  permeate 
through  my  mind.  Getting  soldiers  into  it  and 
through  it  would  take  time,  and  this  time  could 
be  prolonged  indefinitely  by  a  few  resolute  men. 
In  fact,  it  seemed  to  me  that  with  a  hundred 
well-armed,  cool  n)en  I  could  have  held  this 
pass  against  the  armies  of  the  world.  The 
republic  was  evidently  a  place  locked  by  the 
mountains  at  both  ends  and  at  both  sides. 

After  labouring  with  the  path  for  some  time 
it  occurred  to  me  that  I  might  as  well  stop  and 
do  a  little  thinking.  So  I  picked  out  a  nice 
place  and  stretched  myself  out  to  think,  with  my 
knapsack  under  my  head.  In  a  moment  I  was 
in  Granada  with  my  noble  friends  Santiago  and 
Joaquin.  We  were  having  a  large  and  joyous 
time  when  Santiago  suddenly  slapped  me  on  the 
back — and  I  woke  up  !  It  was  pitch  dark  !  I 
was  here  in  the  Pyrenees  in  the  Republic  of 
Andorra — here  becalmed,  so  to  speak,  on  a 
path  that,  to  say  the  least,  was  slightly  difficult 
of  negotiation.  Why  had  I  fallen  asleep?  But 
putting  conundrums  to  myself  was  only  a  waste 
of  time.  I  picked  myself  up,  fumbled  my 
knapsack  up  on  to  my  back,  and  proceeded 
along  with  caution.  I  had  two  high  and 
worthy  aims  to  accomplish.  One  was  to  get  to 
the  capital  of  Andorra  that  night — the  other  was 
not  to  fall  over  a  precipice. 

I  am  not  going  to  describe  that  path  further 
than  to  say  that  it  was  a  path  that  called  for 
some  slight  effort.  It  seemed  to  go  here  and 
there  and  up  and  down  and  everywhere.  It 
was  what  might  be  called  a  path  of  obstruction. 
Even  though  it  was  so  dark  I  could  make  it  out. 
Indeed,  there  were  two  very  good  reasons  why  I 
could  make  it  out.  One  reason  was  that  down 
beneath  me,  to  my  left,  I  could  hear  the  river 
rushing  along.  I  could  not,  of  course,  walk  into 
the  river.  The  other  reason  was  that  above  me, 
to  my  right,  the  side  of  the  mountain  ran 
almost  sheer  up.  It  was  impossible  for  me  to 
have  got  lost,  even  if  I  had  tried.  All  that  I 
had  to  do  was  to  move  along  slowly  and  easily 
and  in  time  I  would  arrive  somewhere. 

At  last  I  saw  lights.  It  was  over  on  the  other 
side  of  the  Valira.  It  was  surely  some  village — 
perhaps  Andorra. 

I  made  my  way  cautiously  down  the  bank 
and  tried  to  find  a  bridge.  But  I  failed.  Then 
the  thought  came  into  my  head  to  try  and  ford 
the  river.      I  bent   down   to  see   if  I   could   get 


500 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAC'xAZINE. 


any  idea  of  the  depth  of  the  water  by  the 
sound  of  it  as  it  rushed  along.  I  did  get  an 
idea,  and  the  idea  was  that  it  was  too  deep  to 
ford.  There  was  a  fuhiess  in  the  sound  of  the 
rushing  water  that  suggested  a  depth  of  eight  or 
ten  feet.  Different  depths  give  different  sounds 
to  rushing  water.  A  shallow  of  a  foot  or  so 
will  have  a  sharp,  harsh  sound. 

I  went  farther  up  and  to   my  joy  I  found  a 


was  as  well  to  wait  till  someone  came  along  so 
that  I  could  make  inciuiries. 

"  Hola  ! "  I  shouted.  I  had  just  heard  a  step 
some  distance  ahead  of  me. 

"Como  se  llama  este  pueblo?  "  (What  is  the 
name  of  the  village  ?)  I  shouted  again. 

"  Andorra,"  was  the  reply. 

So  I  had  arrived  at  my  destination  at  last !  I 
had  got  to  the  end  of  my  journey.     I  was  here 


'  I   SANK    NEARLY    Ul'   TO    MV    KNEES, 


bridge.  I  crossed  over  it  and  went  towards 
where  the  lights  were  shining.  But  now  a  new 
difficulty  presented  itself.  I  sank  nearly  up  to  my 
knees  in  what  seemed  to  be  a  sort  of  bog.  On 
this  side  of  the  river  there  was  evidently  a  strip 
of  flat,  wet  land. 

I  could  find  firm  footing  nowhere,  and  in  the 
end  I  was  forced  to  turn  back,  cross  the  bridge 
again,  atid  make  my  way  up  the  bank  of  the 
river  to  the  path  that  I  had  left  but  a  little  while 
before.  I  had  to  give  up  the  idea  of  finding 
that  particular  village  that  night — whether  it  was 
Antlorra  or  not. 

I'or  a  long,  long  time  I  worked  along  the 
p)ath,  and  then  I  saw  ligiits  again  off  over  to  my 
left.  This  lime,  however,  the  path  seemed  to 
take  a  bend  in  that  direction.  I  went  on  and 
on,  and  at  last  the  j)alh  led  over  a  bridge  across 
the  river  and  on  — slraigiit  in  the  direction  of 
the  lights.  Soon  I  could  make  out  the  outlines 
of  a  house,  and  then  of  another  house,  and  then 
of  several.     I  had  got  somewhere  at  last  ! 

Kinally  I  was  in  the  village— but  the  lights 
seemed  to  be  all  at  the  other  end.  It  was 
still  very  dark  just  around  me.     I  slopped.     It 


in  the  capital  of  the 
republic  —  the    re- 
public here  in  the 
heart  of  the  mountains. 

A  boy  approached  me.  He  was 
accompanied  by  a  big  dog.  The 
dog  barked  loudly,  but  there 
seemed  to  be  a  note  of  friendli- 
ness in  his  barking.  I  asked  the  boy  to  direct 
me  to  Calounes'  posada,  and  he  took  me  by  the 
arm  and  led  me  through  three  or  four  short,  steep, 
rugged  streets.  The  dog  followed  us.  It  was  still 
very  dark.  At  last  the  boy  stopped  in  front  of 
a  big,  low  house,  in  the  window  of  which  a  light 
was  burning.  He  knocked  on  the  door,  and  it 
was  opened  almost  as  he  knocked.  I  stepped 
in  through  the  door  into  the  light. 

A  man  came  slowly  forward  from  a  group  of 
men  who  were  standing  in  the  middle  of  a  big 
room.  He  wore  a  cap  and  a  sort  of  blue  smock. 
He  was  one  of  the  most  powerfully  built  men 
I  had  ever  seen.  Though  he  was  not  much  over 
the  middle  height  he  gave  the  impression  of 
immense  size.  A  giant  of  a  man.  His  head 
was  large,  and  there  was  a  look  of  nobility  and 
loftiness  in  his  face.  A  grand  face,  and  still  a 
simple  face.  It  was  Miguel  Calounes.  He 
owned  the  po.sada. 

"  Buenos  noche,"  he  said. 
His  voice  was  hoarse  and  deep,  and  there  was 
in  it  a  strange  sort  of  vibration.    It  went  through 
the  whole  room. 

"  Buenos,"  I  said,  as  I  took  off  my  knapsack. 


A    TRAMP  Ii\    SPAIN. 


501 


And  then  everybody  came  forward  and  began 
to  ask  me  all  sorts  of  questions  at  once.  Where 
did  I  come  from  ?  \\'as  I  French  ?  Was  I 
English  ?  Why  was  I  going  through  the 
mountains  ?  Where  was  I  going  to  ?  Did  I 
like  Andorra  ?  How  long  would  I  stay  in  the 
republica  ?  And  so  on.  All  of  them  spoke  in 
Catalan. 

I  answered  their  questions  as  well  as  my 
limited  stock  of  Spanish  would  allow.  I  told 
them  of  my  lonesome  tramp  from  Madrid  to 
Zaragoza.  I  told  them  that  I  had  been  in 
Granada  and  Seville  ;  that  I  had  seen  bull- 
fights ;  that  I  had  seen  the  great  Luis  Mazzan- 
tini  in  Madrid  ;  that  I  had  come  from  London. 

Ah,  Londres  !  It  was  a  capital  just  as 
Andorra  was  a  capital  !  It  was,  therefore, 
"  mucha  importe,"  said  Miguel  Calounes,  in  his 
deep,  hoarse,  vibrant  voice.  What  would  I  tell 
them  in  Londres  of  Andorra  ? — Andorra,  that 
"  bonita  terra  "  (beautiful  land),  that  had  been  a 
rejuiblic  for  over  a  thousand  years.  What  would 
I  tell  them  in  Londres  of  it  ?  Andorra  was  one 
of  the  grandest  countries  in  the  whole  world  ! 

The  men  were  in  no  way  like  the  Spaniards, 
even  though  they  spoke  Catalan.  They  were 
nearly  all  big  and  powerful — though  none  of 
them  in  this  respect  approached  Calounes.  I 
had  never  seen  such  men  before,  and  I  found 
it  impossible  to  institute  a  comparison  in  my 
own  mind  between  them  and  any  other  men, 
or  any  other  race  that  I  had  ever  seen.  For 
more  than  a  thousand  years  their  ancestors  had 
dwelt  in  these  mountains — really  free.  This 
republic  was  a  republic.  Their  faces  had  not 
the  subtlety  of  expression  that  would  be  in  the 
faces  of  a  race  whose  race  interests  were  more 
complex  and  larger.  But  they  were  nobler 
and  higher  of  expression.  It  was  plain  to  be 
seen  that  they  were  people  of  simple,  straight 
lives.  They  had  not  changed,  'i'hey  were  as 
their  ancestors  had  been  hundreds  of  years 
before.  They  had  lived  outside  the  world — and 
not  felt  the  loss. 

By  this  time  Calounes'  wife  had  got  supper 
ready  for  me.  It  was  a  very  good  supper — 
roast  partridge  that  Calounes  had  shot  himself, 
light,  well-made  bread,  tomatoes,  and  plenty  of 
good,  rough,  honest  red  wine.  I  enjoyed  it 
immensely.  The  negotiating  of  the  path  had 
made  me  hungry.  I  complimented  Calounes' 
wife  upon  her  cooking,  and  she  smiled.  She 
was  a  pleasant-looking,  dark -eyed  woman  of 
about  thirty-five. 

After  supf)er  I  had  a  cigar — a  cigar  made  in 
Andorra.  It  was  not  as  dry  as  it  might  have 
been,  but  it  was  all  right.  After  that  Calounes 
showed  me  to  a  room,  and  in  a  moment  I  was 
sleeping  the  sleep  of  the  just. 


I  did  not  see  Calounes  the  next  morning 
when  I  was  having  breakfast,  and  when  I  asked 
his  wife  where  he  was  she  told  me  that  he  was 
out  in  the  campo  (field).  I  determined  to 
go  out  there  and  see  him  after  I  had  had  a  look 
round  Andorra. 

The  town  was  small  and  compact  and  built 
on  the  slope  of  the  mountain  on  the  north-east 
side  of  the  valley.  Though  the  valley  was 
beautiful  the  town  itself  was  not  what  could  be 
called  picturesque.  It  was  rather  quaint  and 
odd  and  old  of  look.  There  was  an  air  of  still- 
ness about  it.  It  had  slept  through  the  centuries. 
One  felt  here  that  a  hundred  years  of  time 
either  way  mattered  nothing.  The  blight  of  the 
thing  that  is  called  Progress  had  not  fallen  upon 
it.  The  people  moved  about  quietly.  Honest- 
faced,  contented-looking  [)eople  who  seemed  to 
have  solved  the  problem  of  how  to  get  the  most 
out  of  life.  They  were  as  their  fathers  were 
before  them — as  their  sons  that  would  come  after 
them.  There  were  no  rich  amongst  them — there 
were  no  poor  amongst  them — there  was  no  vice 
amongst  them.  To  them  the  arts  and  the 
sciences  were  a  quantity  untelt  and  unknown. 
They  had  missed  a  little,  but  in  the  missing 
of  it  they  had  grasped  much.  They  were 
wise  with  the  supreme  wisdom  of  simplicity. 
These  people  who  lived  in  this  quaint  old  town 
of  the  mountains  !  A  town  of  six  hundred  and 
sixty  people — six  hundred  and  sixty  people 
who  lived  far  away  from  the  noise  and  the 
uproar,  and  the  stress  and  the  strife  and  the 
confusion,  and  the  unrest  and  the  misery  of  the 
great  world  that  lay  off  in  the  distance  —  six 
hundred  and  sixty  people  who  lived  in  peace. 

Here  was  the  Casa  de  la  Valle.  Herein  the 
men  of  the  Government  of  the  republic  sat  and 
deliberated.  Above  the  great  door  was  a  motto 
in  Latin  and  the  arms  of  Andorra.  I  knocked 
on  the  door,  but  there  came  no  answer.  And 
then  I  went  down  the  steep  road  that  led  to  the 
bridge  that  crossed  the  river.  From  the  bridge 
I  turned  back  to  look  at  the  little  town. 

There  was  Calounes,  working  off  over  in  a 
field  on  the  other  side  of  the  valley.  I  knew 
him  by  his  great  figure  and  by  his  smock  and 
cap.  On  I  went  till  I  got  near  enough  to  hail 
him.  He  turned  when  he  heard  the  hail  and 
beckoned  to  me.  And  I  came  quickly  up  and 
climbed  over  the  low  stone  wall  and  was  in  the 
field.     I  shook  hands  with  Calounes. 

They  were  gathering  the  bean-vines  and  put- 
ting them  into  bags  —  Calounes  and  another 
man  and  a  boy  and  a  woman.  When  filled  the 
bags  were  put  on  the  donkey  and  sent  off  to 
Calounes'  house  in  charge  of  the  boy.    I  helped. 

After  an  hour  or  so  the  boy  brought  some 
food,  and  at    the  invitation  of  Calounes  I  sat 


502 


THE    WIDE   WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


•# 


I    HAD    BGCOME   AN    EXPERT    TN    THE    AKT   OF    PRINKING   VINE      A    TRAGO. 


down  with  the  rest  of  them  to  partake  of  it. 
Calounes  cut  slices  of  the  loaf  of  black  bread 
and  passed  them  round,  and  we  all  took  turns 
at  drinking  the  red  wine  "a  trago"out  of  the 
leathern  bota.  By  this  time  I  had  become  an 
expert  in  the  art  of  drinking  wine  "  a  trago." 
It  was,  after  all,  the  best  way  possible  of  drink- 
ing it.  One  got  the  full  taste  and  flavour  of 
the  wine. 

After  wc  had  eaten  I  prevailed  upon  Calounes 
to  leave  his  toil  and  come  with  me  into  the 
town.  I  wanted  him  to  show  me  around.  And 
we  went  together  u[)  to  the  Casa  de  la  Valle. 
The  great  door  was  locked.  Calounfes  knew 
where  the  key  wa.s,  but  this  was  of  little  use, 
because  of  the  fact  that  the  permission  of  the 
President  of  the  republic  had  to  be  obtained 
before  a  stranger  would  be  allowed  in.  We 
searched  through  the  town  for  the  President, 
but  we  could  not  find  him. 

That  night  after  dinner  there  was  a  great 
argument  in  the  posada  between  an  Andorrano 
and  a  Catalan.  The  Catalan  said  that  .Spain  was 
a  wonderful  country,  and  that  Andorra  was  just 
so-so.  He  also  said  what  a  wonderful  advan- 
tage it  would  be  to  the  republic  if  it  belonged 
to  Spain.    But  the  Andorrano  did  not  see  it  like 


that.  He  argued  altogether  in  an  opposite 
direction.  We  all  listened  with  close  attention. 
I  was  able  to  follow  the  argument  well  enough, 
and  now  and  then  I  joined  in.  But  this  I  had 
to  stop.  Making  myself  understood  was  too 
difficult.  Calounes  never  joined  in  the  argument 
at  all.  But  he  listened  as  though  the  matter 
under  discussion  was  a  thing  of  life  and  death 
interest  to  him.  I  began  to  watch  his  face,  and 
it  seemed  to  me  that  his  face  reflected  all  the 
anxiety  that  had  beset  his  race  tlirough  a 
thousand  years.  Through  the  past  centuries 
another  Miguel  Calounes,  and  another,  and 
another  had  listened  to  arguments  such  as 
this  before  a  great  log  fire  such  as  was 
now  burning  before  us.  Men  of  the  olden 
time  in  Andorra  had  listened  to  words  such  as 
the  words  that  were  going  now,  and  had  been 
prepared  to  shed  their  blood  in  support  of  what 
was  set  forth  on  their  side.  The  blood  had 
come  and  gone  from  their  faces  as  they  listened, 
just  as  it  was  coming  and  going  now  from  the 
face  of  Miguel  Calounes.  I'heir  hands  had 
clenched  as  his  were  clenching  now.  They  had 
been  as  ready  to  fight  as  he  was  now.  He 
rose  suddenly.  He  could  stand  the  argument 
no   longer.     His   great    frame    shook   and    he 


A    TRAMP    IN    SPAIN. 


503 


I 


th 


H 

rra 


struck    the    table  in  front  uf   the  Catalan  with 
his  clenched  fist. 

"Andorra  siempre  (for  ever)  Andorra!"  he 
exclaimed.  "Andorra  no  Espana  !  Andorra 
no  Francia  !     Andorra  siempre  Andorra  !" 

The  argument  stopped  dead.  Calounes  sat 
down. 

Late  the  next  afternoo 
sident  of  the  republic,  Jose 
a  young,  dark-looking  m 
thirty-seven  years  old. 
at  all  look  like  an  Andor 
I  met  him  in  Spain  I  w 
taken  him  for  an  Andalu 

Calounes  introduced  m 
to  him,  and   I  asked  j)er 
mission  to  go  through  th 
house  of  State — the  Ca 
de  la  \'alle.    He  gave  the 
permission  readily,  and 
said  that  Calounes 
would      show     me 
over  it.     I  thanked 
him,  and  off  I  went 
with    Calounes     to    . 
get  the  key  of  the 
greatdoor.  It  turned 
out    that    it   lay  on 
the  ledge  over  the 
door   of    a     house 
quite  close   to  the 
posada.      Calounes 
just  went  inside  and 
reached  up  for  it. 

It  was  an  i  m  - 
mense  iron  key. 

We  went  to  the 
Casa  de  la  Valle, 
and  Calounes 
opened  the  great 
door  and  we  en- 
tered into  the  court- 
yard.  Then  we 
ascended  a  flight  of 
wooden  stairs,  and  Calounes  showed  me  a  school- 
room. Herein  were  taught  the  children  of  Andorra. 

It  was  in  a  cupboard  in  this  room  that 
Calounes  got  the  key  of  the  council  chamber. 
This  chamber  was  oblong  in  shape  and,  in  a 
way,  was  one  of  the  most  impressive  places  I 
had  ever  seen.  The  window  at  the  end  of  it, 
where  the  President  sat  when  in  council,  dis- 
closed a  view  of  the  mountain  towering  across 
the  valley.  Hung  on  the  wall  were  twenty-four 
long  cloaks — twelve  on  either  side.  And  over 
each  cloak  was  a  three-cornered  hat.  These 
cloaks  and  hats  were  the  first  things  that  caught 
the  eye  as  one  entered  the  chamber.     They  gave 


HE    WAS   SHOWING    ME  A  IMCTURE   OF    rRF„SI 
DENT    FAURE    RECEIVING    A    DEPUTATION." 


to  it  an  air  of  mystery  and  secrecy  and  profound 
silence.  Twenty-four  long  cloaks  and  twenty- 
four  hats.  They  did  not  seem  as  it  men  had 
ever  worn  them.  They  seemed  as  beings  of 
themselves.  The  room  looked  as  a  room  where- 
from  might  issue  secret  mandates  for  the  doing 

of  sudden  and 
violent  death. 
Herein  might  have 
sat  some  Vehm- 
gericht.  Herein 
might  have  sat 
stern  and  terrible 
men  —  apostles  of 
extermination.  A 
long  room  on  the 
walls  of  which  were 
hung  twenty  -  four 
long,  dark  cloaks. 
Darkness  was  com- 
ing into  it  now,  for 
the  sun  had  gone 
down  behind  the 
mountains.  But 
from  this  strange- 
looking  room  had 
come  wisdom  and 
light !  But  still  the 
effect  of  it  was  sin- 
ister and  fearsome. 
I  turned  and  looked 
towards  the  other 
end  of  it.  I  could 
just  make  out  a 
great  shadow  in 
the  darkness.  It 
uel  Calounes.  I  went 
im. 
Calounes  was  now  holding  up  a  light 
in  a  small  room  that  lay  off  from  the 
chamber  of  council.  He  was  showing 
me  a  picture  of  President  Faure  re- 
ceiving a  deputation  from  the 
Government  of  Andorra.  Calounes  was 
explaining  to  me  who  the  deputies  were  in 
his  deep,  strange,  vibrant  voice.  But  I  was 
scarcely  heeding  what  he  was  saying.  Instead, 
I  was  watching  him  and  thinking  of  him.  As  he 
stood  there  holding  the  light  he  seemed  to  me  to 
be  the  finest  and  noblest-looking  man  I  had 
ever  seen. 

His  great  figure  and  the  loftiness  of  the 
expression  of  his  face  made  me  feel  that  here 
was  indeed  man  as  Ciod  had  intended  that 
man  should  be.  This  fine  Miguel  Calounes  ! 
A  freeman  descended  from  a  race  of  freemen. 
'I'his  man  of  the  mountains  and  the  open  air. 
This  fine  tiller  of  the  soil. 


(To  be  continued.) 


rt.y^--^i 


.Tf^s-.- 


Br     An 


^w^ 


>'1t>K\ 


B^iifcS* 


J^ 


'/-;«. 


■/^^>  •'■^i-K.^ 


By  Felix  Jepson. 

Describing  how  three  young  sailors  belonging  to  a  pilgrim  ship  lying  at  Jeddah  concocted  a 
foolhardy  scheme  to  reach  Mecca,  the  sacred  city  of  the  Mohammedans,  which  none  but  followers 
of  the  Prophet  may  enter.  They  knew  no  language  save  their  own,  and  had  no  knowledge  of  the 
route.      Needless   to   say,    the    enterprise   failed ;    but    the   adventurous    trio    met   with    a  variety   of 

exciting  experiences  ere  they  reached  their  ship  again. 


HIS  was  our  .second  attempt  at  the 
desperate     enterprise     of    reaching 
.Mecca.      Our  vessel  had  come  to 
jcddali   with   pilgrims   from  around 
and  beyond  the  Indian  Ocean,  and 
while   awaiting    their    return    from    Mahomet's 
burial-place  was  getting  a  much -needed  cleaning. 
At  the  end  of  the  |)rcceding  week  we   three 
.shipmates  had  made  the  initial  venture,  but  had 
been    prevented    from  going    on   by  an    unex- 
pected delay  in  the  city.     Now,  with  a  margin 
of  five  days  before   the   vessel  sailed   again,  we 
had  started  out  once  more   for  our   forty-niile- 
distant    objective,    the    Mohammedan   Holy    of 
Holies.      Wr  were  attired    in   the   spotless  white 
robes    of    I'^astern     pilgrim.s,     with     food     and 
revolvers  hidden   under  the   disguise,  and  our 
feet  and   legs,   hands  and    arms,   faces,   necks, 
chests,  and  shoulders  were  stained   brown  with 
1  niixture  of  Stockholm  tar  and  walnut  juice. 
Oijr   naked   feet,  although   hardened   to   that 
lilion    on    a   ship's    deck,    felt    acutely    the 
'  of  having  to  plod  over  rougli  and  scorch- 


ing ground.  \Ve  were  ill-e(|uipped  for  such  a 
hazardous  expedition.  Indeed,  only  three  reck- 
less, harum-scarum  young  sailors,  spoiling  for 
adventure  after  the  weary  round  of  ship-board 
life,  would  have  undertaken  the  task  under  such 
hopeless  conditions.  We  knew  nothing  of  the 
road,  of  the  observances  of  Moslem  pilgrims,  or 
of  any  Ivastern  language  beyond  a  lew  odd 
phrases.  But  we  set  our  faces  towards  the 
sacred  goal — determined  to  get  there  at  all 
costs,  if  artifice  and  ini[)udence  could  win  a 
way  through. 

As  to  the  language  difficulty,  we  got  over  that 
by  the  easy  method  of  deciding  to  pretend  that 
we  were  deaf  and  dumb.  With  regard  to  our 
supposed  nationality,  our  choice  fell  on  the 
Malay  Peninsula,  whence  we  had  brought  some 
of  the  pilgrims.  Thus,  if  need  be,  we  thought, 
we  could  refer  to  our  own  shi[)  as  the  vessel  we 
came  in  —  though  how  we  were  to  convey  this 
information  to  any  (luestioner  did  not  suggest 
itself  to  our  minds. 

Taught  by  our  first  experience  — when  we  had 


OUR    ATTEMPT     TO     REACH     MECCA. 


505 


been  detained  in  Jeddah  through  the  closing  of 
the  gates  at  sunset — we  had  this  time,  under 
cover  of  darkness,  crept  along  the  shore  to  an 
isolated  s[)ot  covered  with  low  cactus  shrubs, 
wild  date  palms,  and  coarse  grass.  'IMiere  our 
change  of  ap[)earance  had  been  made  and  our 
European  clothes  left  in  hiding.  Our  purpose 
was  to  find  the  road  to  Mecca  and  keep  it  in 
sight  until  that  city  should  be  reached.  By  this 
means  we  counted  on  making  the  journey  within 
view  of  bona-fide  pilgrims,  and  at  the  same  time 
saving  ourselves  the  embarrassment  and  danger 
of  being  in  their  company.  But  "the  best-laid 
plans  gang  aft  agley,"  and  so  we  found  it. 

\Ve  had  barely  issued  from  that  Eastern 
apology  for  a  coppice  when,  along  a  branch  of 
the  path  that  we  were  treading,  there  came  four 
real  pilgrims.  A  "  dead  "  wall,  probably  once  a 
part  of  what  had  enclosed  a  large  house,  then  in 
ruins,  had  prevented  our  seeing  their  approach 
sooner.  It  stood  in  the  fork  of  the  paths,  and 
the  Moslems  were  shoulder  to  shoulder  with  us 
ere  we  were  thoroughly  aware  of  their  presence. 
They  seemed  in  no  way  surprised.  \\'e  sprang 
aside  with  an  agility  that  brought  sharp  pain  to 
our  European  feet,  because  of  the  spiked  grass 
amongst  which  we  had  leapt. 

That  act  alone  almost  betrayed  us.  The  unex- 
pected pain  came  so  (juickly  on  our  surprise  that 
we  instantly  leaped  back  to  the  path  amongst  the 
newcomers,  whose  common  intelligence  naturally 
directed  their  gaze  from  our  screwed-up  faces  to 
the  feet  at  whi'ch  we  looked  so  ruefully.  Had 
they  gazed  longer  they  would  most  likely  have 
seen  that  these  same  pedal  extremities  were  of  a 
rather  different  shape  to  their  own,  for  we  had 
not  then  tramped  through  enough  dust  to  hide 
this  fact.  Indeed,  there  seemed  to  be  suspicion 
of  some  kind  on  the  face  of  one  pilgrim  as  he 
looked  us  sharply  over,  and  as  sharply  asked 
from  where  we  came. 

The  question  w-as  as  brief  and  as  simple  as 
Arabic  could  make  it.  It  was  spoken  with  an 
abruptness  that  threw  us  off  our  guard.  Somers 
understood  it  well  enough  to  jerk  up  his  head, 
for  the  tone  was  anything  but  pleasant  to 
independent  ears. 

He  was  just  about  to  answer  mechanically, 
but  checked  the  first  word  in  time  to  turn  it 
into  that  deep  guttural  cry  which  some  mutes 
are  able  to  make.  Each  of  us  momentarily 
expected  the  worst.  There  was  an  excessively 
awkward  pause,  which  Somers  hapjjily  broke  by 
an  inspiration.  Scarcely  had  that  audible 
rumbling  passed  out  of  his  throat  when  he 
commenced  a  broad  laughing  grin,  restarted  the 
curious  guttural,  and  pointed  to  and  from  his 
feet  to  the  sharp  pointed  grass  and  back  again. 
Rumbolt  and  I,  watching  the  serious,  queslion- 

Vol.  xi.— 64.  V 


ing  faces  of  those  suspecting  strangers,  saw  the 
crisis,  and  at  once  joined  in  Soniers's  pantomime 
— at  the  same  time  edging  farther  away  and 
elbowing  him  with  us. 

The  thing  to  do  was  to  divert  the  thoughts  of 
our  watchers,  or  our  effort  to  reach  Mecca  would 
be  frustrated  in  a  possible  calamity. 

Suddenly  Rumbolt  stopped  his  grinning  and 
antics.  A  grave  expression  spread  over  his  face. 
Then  he  pointed  to  his  ears  and  tongue,  shook 
his  head,  and  went  through  similar  gesticulations 
to  show  that  we  had  come  from  over  the  sea. 
\\\  this  dumb  explanation  Somers  and  I  took 
part  until  the  strangers,  reassured,  smiled  their 
comprehension  of  our  meaning  and  went  ahead. 
I'hey  were  far  in  front  of  us  before  we  felt  easy 
again.  That  was  a  lesson  by  which  we  deter- 
mined to  profit. 

Away  to  our  right  the  whitish  walls,  gilded 
crescents,  and  tall  minarets  of  Jeddah  were 
easily  discernible,  serving  us  as  a  landmark  to 
shape  our  course  by.  At  intervals  we  could 
also  see  bands  of  snowy-clad  pilgrims  treading 
the  dusty  road  from  that  port  eastward  to 
Mecca.  This  was  enough  for  our  purpose,  and 
we  went  forward  with  cheerful  hearts,  though 
with  oft-limping  feet,  keeping  our  stock  of 
alertness  and  self-possession  until  the  closer 
proximity  of  the  Moslem  Holy  of  Holies  should 
make  its  unavoidable  demands  on  them,  yet 
wary  of  unexpected  comers. 

In  this  manner  w^e  had  plodded  along  from 
early  morning  till  mid-afternoon,  with  one  long 
stop  for  rest  and  food.  Jeddah  had  disapi^eared 
behind  us.  Owing  to  our  having  to  make 
detours  to  clear  lonely  dwellings  and  cultivated 
lands,  the  pilgrims  on  the  road  were  out  of  sight 
ahead.  We  had  reached  a  wilder  part  of  the 
country  than  that  already  traversed  by  our  aching 
feet.  Immediately  in  front  lay  such  a  spot  as 
the  one  in  which  we  had  disguised  ourselves, 
but  much  larger.  A  whispered  consultation  — 
we  would  not  trust  our  voices  even  there — 
resulted  in  a  decision  to  make  another  halt  in 
the  shelter  of  the  trees  and  shrubs  ahead. 

Gladly  the  supposed  haven  was  entered.  We 
pressed  forward  to  find  a  suitable  spot  for  the 
halt,  when,  on  turning  a  clump  of  bushes,  we 
were  suddenly  brought  to  an  abrupt  standstill 
by  an  Arab  leaping  from  the  ground.  In  an 
instant  he  had  flashed  out  a  huge  dagger  and 
made  a  loud  demand  in  his  native  tongue. 
Before  any  of  us  could  decide  what  to  do  there 
was  a  patter  of  feet,  and  we  were  surrounded  by 
about  a  dozen  of  as  evil-looking  cut-throats  as 
could  be  found  between  Port  Said  and  Aden. 
In  every  hand  there  was  an  ugly  knife  or 
dagger,  and  remarks  of  some  kind  were 
levelled  at  us  on  all  sides. 


5o6 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


After  a  minute  or  so  of  this  one  of  the 
number  stepped  forward,  stood  immediately  in 
front  of  us,  and  apparently  asked  us  a  question. 
Now  making  our  first  move  since  the  sudden 
surprise,  we  simultaneously  put  our  fingers  to 
our  ears  and  shook  our  heads  vigorously. 
Similar  actions  quickly  indicated  that  we  were 
dumb — or,  at  least,  supposed  to  be.  This 
seemed  to  tickle  their  fancy,  for,  after  a  moment 
spent  in  amazed  looks  at  each  other  and  in  a 
few  quiet  remarks,  the  whole  ring  set  up  a  loud 
guffaw,  which  finished  in  what  appeared  to  be  a 
consultation.  Then  the  fellow  close  by  us 
plainly  showed  that  he  wanted  us  to  give  him 
something.  A  few  antics  in  dumb  show  were 
enough  to  make  us  understand  that  we  had 
fallen  into  the  hands  of  a  parcel  of  robbers,  who 
simply  wished  to  relieve  us  of  what  we  had 
worth  carrying  away. 

When  this  information  dawned  on  our  facul- 


hidden  bags  of  money  or  presents  for  the  priests 
at  Mecca. 

Why  Kumbolt  (the  instigator  and  nominal 
guide  in  that  mad-brained  venture)  adopted  the 
course  w  hich  he  then  did,  I  cannot  say.  He 
himself  could  not  afterwards  give  any  logical 
reason  for  his  action.  But,  right  or  wrong,  as 
the  Arab's  hands  went  over  his  robe  he,  with 
one  hand  gripping  his  revolver  in  a  fold  of  the 
garment,  put  a  bullet  into  the  scoundrel's  right 
arm.  In  fact,  it  went  through  the  limb  and 
bowled  over  a  member  of  the  enclosing  ring, 
doing  more  harm  to  him  than  it  had  done  to  its 
first  victim.  As  he  fired  Rumbolt  whispered, 
"  Peg  away,  boys,  or  we  shall  be  murdered  !  " 

From  this  point  onwards  that  eventuality  was 
practically  certain  unless  we  could  beat  off  the 
bandits.  Hitherto  we  had  stood  at  random  ; 
now,  with  Rumbolt's  shot  as  an  incentive  and 
something  of  a   guide   to   fresh   action,  we  two 


HI-;  iL  1    HIS  I,,., I    a-;ai.\.st  riiii  ni;ai<e.st  native's  side  and  sent  him  keeling.' 


ties  we  again  shook  our  head.s,  meaning  that  we 
possessed  no  valuable.s. 

This  elicited  another  laugh  from  our  captors, 
which  was  ended  by  their  leader  stepping  up  to 
Rumbolt  and  beginning  to  feel  about  him  for 


planted  our  backs  to  his  in  a  manner  that  made 
the  three  of  us  form  a  triangle.  At  the  same 
time  he,  tall  and  lithe,  put  the  sole  of  his  foot 
against  the  nearest  native's  side  and  sent  him 
reeling    towards    his    fellow -rogues,    to   whose 


OUR    ATTEMPT    TO    REACH    iMECCA. 


507 


ranks  he  made  all  possible  haste  when  the  force 
of  the  blow  was  spent.  This  placed  us  beyond 
the  reach  of  his  ugly  knite.  At  a  time  like  that 
more  thoughts  fly  through  one's  head  in  a 
second  than  can  be  written  in  ten  minutes. 

We  two  opened  lire  tlie  instant  we  sprang  into 
position — as  did  Rum  bolt  again,  after  thrusting 
the  leader  from  him — but  not  to  kill.  It  was  in 
our  minds  that  escape  with  as  little  damage  as 
possible  was  our  great  desideratum  in  this  situa- 
tion. We  all  knew  well  enough  that  to  kill  a 
native  robber  even  in  defence  of  our  own  lives 
would  mean  serious  trouble  for  us  under  the 
circumstances  if  taken  before  an  efftndi  for  that 
reason.      And    by    what    means   could    such   a 


Rumbolt  was  not  a  bad  marksman  at  close 
quarters  ;  but  both  Somers  and  I  were  better 
ones,  and  we  two  very  quickly  had  the  pleasure 
of  seeing  a  clear  course  along  the  way  we  had 
gone  into  the  trouble.  This  was  at  once 
announced  to  Rumbolt,  who  whispered  that  he 
could  see  only  the  groaning  native  whom  he  had 
first  dropped  by  chance.  However,  there  was 
more  probability  of  escape  by  the  way  already 
traversed  than  by  an  unknown  one.  This  we 
felt,  and  accordingly  made  a  dash  for  freedom, 
heedless  of  having  our  feet  pricked  by  Eastern 
thorns  as  we  went  by  leaps  and  bounds  along 
the  path.  .  I  write  "  leaps  and  bounds,"  but, 
owing  to  our  being  so  unaccustomed  to  those 


sequel  be  averted — other  than  by  shooting  the 
whole  gang,  which  we  had  no  wish  to  do,  how- 
ever deserving  they  might  be  of  such  a  fate  ? 
We  also  had  a  lively  idea  of  what  would  hai)pen 
to  us  at  the  hands  of  any  passing  bund  of 
pilgrims,  should  this  unfortunate  affair  drive  us 
amongst  them  and  our  identity  be  discovered — 
not  an  unlikely  result  under  the  conditions. 
These  and  kindred  thoughts  went  at  break-neck 
pace  through  our  minds  the  while  our  bullets  sped 
at  the  legs  and  feet  of  the  dodging  cut-throats. 


clinging,  woman-like  garments,  these  were  so 
circumscribed  that  Somers  (who  chanced  to  be 
in  the  rear  at  that  moment)  received  a  thrown 
knife  in  the  fleshy  part  of  his  leg. 

He  gave  an  involuntary  cry  of  pain  and 
dropped. 

Round  swung  Rumbolt  and  I,  fearing  that 
the  worst  had  happened,  and  with  our  hearts  in 
our  mouths  at  this  awful  consequence  of  our 
foolish  adventure.  Guess,  then,  the  relief  we 
experienced   when  the  wounded  man  forthwith 


5oS 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


stumbled  to  his  feqt  with  a  muttered  injunction 
to  us  to  "go  ahead."  And  ahead  we  went 
again,  but  soon  had  to  lend  him  our  assistance 
to  get  along. 

Providentially,  open  ground  was  gained  with- 
out further  mishap.  Then,  still  hurrying  as 
best  we  could,  we  began  to  talk  in  breathless 
undertones,  the  subjects  being  Somers's  injury 
and  our  safest  plan  of  action  from  that  point. 
This  running  commentary  was  cut  short  by  the 
report  of  a  firearm  in  our  rear  and  the  whirr  of 
a  bullet  past  us,  a  diversion  that  was  several 
times  repeated  ineffectually  before  we  reached 
the  shelter  of  a  solitary  palm  and  a  dozen  or 
so  shrubs.  This  spot  was  happily  out  of  the 
range  of  the  enemy,  who  most  likely  had  their 
rendezvous  in  the  wood,  and  had  brought  an 
old  Bedouin  firearm  to  bear  on  us.  The  scrub 
we  had  gained  at  least  afforded  us  an  opportunity 
of  attending  to  Somers's  wound,  which  proved 
to  be  more  painful  than  serious.  After  bandaging 
it  with  the  lower  half  of  his  shirt,  torn  into 
strips,  a  council  of  war  and  of  ways  and  means 
was  held.  Meanwhile,  to  save  time,  we  made 
a  hasty  but  satisfactory  meal  of  bread  and  ship's 
beef. 

Obviously,  to  remain  in  that  locality  would 
be  madness,  seeing  that  the  robbers,  who  un- 
doubtedly devoted  their  attention  to  pilgrims, 
would  probably  start  in  search  of  us  at  night- 
fall, if  not  before.  To  get  on  to  the  road  and 
amongst  pilgrims  with  that  burnt  place  in  Rum- 
bolt's  robe— caused  by  his  first  shot — and  the 
bloodstains  on  the  back  of  Somers's  garment 
would  be  equally  foolish,  for  the  passing  of 
pilgrims  at  that  season  of  the  year  was  almost 
constant.  To  get  back  to  Jeddah  again  before 
darkness  closed  in  was  impossible  unless  we 
could  borrow  some  beasts  of  burden  more  fleet 
of  foot  than  the  ubi<iuitous  native  donkey. 

Thus  we  talked  for  about  half  an  hour,  taking 
care  to  keep  a  close  watch  on  the  coppice  from 
which  we  had  fled,  lest  the  robbers  should  steal 
out  and  entrap  us,  despite  their  fear  of  those 
small  British  revolvers  of  ours. 

'I'heii  a  fresh  start  was  made  on  the  retreat, 
at  which  we  were  all  so  ashamed  that  we  would 
not  confess  it  to  each  other.  Seamen  are 
proverbially  good  at  keeping  their  bearings  even 
in  strange  places,  by  means  of  landmarks  which 
the  average  landsman  would  never  notice,  and 
we  had  kept  ours  without  difficulty.  A  diagonal 
stretch  was  made  for  the  path,  and  when  we 
gained  it  we  put  on  a  spurt— so  far  as  Somers's 
wound  would  allow— for  the  purpose  of  placing 
the  greatest  possible  distance  between  ourselves 
and  our  late  assailants. 

At  about  five  o'clock  we  arrived  at  a  well. 
With  one  accord  each  man  pulled  up  short. 


"  I  don't  know  what  you  fellows  have  stopped 
for,"  said  Rumbolt  ;  "  but  I'm  going  to  have  a 
drink." 

"  Ditto  here,"  Soniers  said,  "  and  more." 

"What?"  Rumbolt  asked,  without  turning. 

"  Why,  the  bloodstains  on  this  flowing  night- 
shirt of  mine  !  Why  can't  we  wash  them  off 
and  go  ahead  again  ?  "  answered  Somers. 

This  query  pulled  us  two  up  between  hnn  and 
the  well.  Why  not  ? — if  he  was  agreeable  and 
could  do  the  journey  all  right.  Those  tell-tale 
stains  and  his  injury  had  been  the  main  reasons 
of  our  turning  tail.  The  burn  m  Rumbolt's 
garment  could  be  hidden  by  a  careful  readjust- 
ment of  the  front  of  it.  I  asked  Somers  if  he 
thought  the  sixty  miles  or  so  still  to  travel,  to 
Mecca  and  back  to  Jeddah,  would  not  be  too 
much  for  him.  His  reply  was  an  emphatic 
negative.  The  sharp  walk  of  the  past  hour  had 
taken  all  the  stiffness  and  most  of  the  pain  from 
his  wound. 

This  was  enough  for  Rumbolt  and  me,  and 
while  he  watched  for  possible  comers  I  helped 
Somers  to  wash  out  the  stains  m  a  trickling 
little  stream  that  ran  from  the  well. 

^^'hen  the  red  marks  had  faded  away  to  a 
pale  pink,  scarcely  discernible,  we  treated  the 
knife-thrust  to  some  of  the  limpid  water,  then 
refreshed  ourselves  at  the  well,  ate  a  couple 
more  biscuits  each,  and  took  a  branch  path  that 
led  in  the  direction  of  the  high  road.  Rather 
than  risk  meeting  the  robbers  again,  or  any 
others  of  their  fraternity,  we  decided  to  trust  to 
good  fortune  and  our  two  supposed  infirmities. 
The  set-backs  experienced  had  increased  our 
determination  to  succeed  in  the  enterprise  rather 
than  damped  our  previous  ardour  for  it,  and  we 
went  forward  with  renewed  energy. 

Night  was  coming  up  away  on  our  left  front 
as  we  neared  the  road.  Our  plan  now  was  to 
tramp  on  until  tired,  keeping  a  sharp  look- 
out for  newcomers,  then  seek  a  thicket  and  sleep 
by  turns  till  daylight.  We  knew  that  there  was 
nothing  to  fear  from  ])rowling  animals.  But  the 
obstacles  on  the  way  had  not  all  been  over- 
come. It  seemed  as  if  the  spirit  of  Mahomet 
himself  was  barring  our  progress. 

Just  as  we  gained  the  dusty  road,  at  a 
particularly  barren  place,  there  came  along  two 
elderly  pilgrims,  slowly  treading  their  way  back 
to  Jeddah.  We,  without  a  thought  of  their 
being  a  barrier,  stepped  slightly  aside,  intending 
to  keep  steadily  onward,  with  no  more  than  a 
passing  salaam  to  the  strangers.  But  the  nearer 
one  deftly  cut  us  off,  evidently  with  no  more 
intention  than  asking  a  probably  harmless 
question  that  entered  non-understanding  ears. 
Again  we  had  to  find  refuge  in  dumb  sliow  to 
indicate  the  acted   deaf  and  dumb  condition. 


OUR 


ATTEMPT  TO  REACH  MECCA. 


509 


I'hen  came,  in  llic  same  manner,  what  we 
tliought  was  a  request  for  our  hands  on  which 
to  make  some  sign.  Rumbolt,  who  stood  a 
Uttle  in  advance  of  Somers  and  me,  looked  on 
this  as  an  observance  between  pilgrims  passing 
on  the  road,  and  tendered  his  hand,  pahn 
upwards.  The  stranger  took  it,  holding  the  tips 
of  Rumbolt's  fingers.  He  raised  his  other  hand 
and  was  about  to  make  a  sign  on  the  upturned 
palm  when  some  idea  in  his  grey  head  arrested 
the  action.     Eor  a  moment   he  gazed  intently 


had  not  attempted  to  lay  a  finger  on  us,  was  not 
in  our  minds,  although  their  intention  towards 
us  was  as  dangerous  as  it  well  could  be.  Yet 
stop  that  fearful  and  prolonged  wailing  we  must, 
and  at  once,  lest  a  band  of  pilgrims  should 
come  within  hearing  of  it  and  tear  us  to  pieces 
in  their  fanatical  rage  ;  for  our  cartridges  had 
dwindled  to  a  painfully  small  number.  In  fact, 
we  had  taken  the  revolvers  more  for  show  in  case 
of  danger  than  for  actual  use. 

We     gaped    at    each     other    in    some    fear 


"   HE   GAZED    INTENTLY   AT   WHAT    HE    HELD.' 


at  what  he  held  ;  then,  quick  as  thought,  down 
came  his  nose  on  Rumbolt's  palm.  The  latt(;r, 
half  guessing  at  the  pilgrim's  idea,  snatched  his 
hand  away. 

Too  late  !  That  elderly  wayfarer  had  smelt 
that  tar,  if  not  the  walnut  juice,  and  penetrated 
our  disguise. 

In  a  moment  his  shrill  voice  rang  out  in  a  cry 
of  alarm  and  horror  that  was  miserably  dis- 
quieting, and  made  the  still  evening  air  hideous 
to  us.  His  companion,  understanding  the  pur- 
port of  that  yell  even  better  than  we  did,  joined 
in.    We  stood  aghast.    To  shoot  these  men,  who 


and  much  indecision.  Then  said  Rumbolt : 
"Thunder!  we  must  do  something." 

"Yes,"  answered  Somers,  "but  we  can't 
attack  two  old  men." 

"Well,"  rejoined  the  other,  "let's  run  for 
it." 

Instantly  that  idea  was  put  into  action. 
AVithout  thinking  which  would  be  the  better  way 
to  run,  round  we  swung  and  off  at  the  top  of 
our  speed,  this  time  holding  up  the  cumbersome 
white  garments  to  get  a  freer  use  of  our  legs. 
iJut  this  did  not  wholly  get  us  out  of  the  new 
trouble.     For  the  old  pilgrims  ran  after  us  to  the 


510 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    .MAGAZINE. 


best  of  their  ability,  continuing  at  short  intervals 
that  accusing  wail  of  theirs. 

Evidently  some  other  method  would  have  to 
be  adopted  to  stop  the  danger,  which  was  now 
increasing,  because  of  the  likelihood  of  our 
coming  upon  other  Moslems.  A  few  gasping 
remarks  resulted  in  an  abrupt  right-about  and  a 
charge  at  the  pursuers.  Long-limbed  Rumbolt 
had  the  lead.  He  took  the  first  pilgrim  in  his 
arms  like  a  ninepin  and  had  him  on  the  ground 
in  a  moment,  yet  scarcely  had  a  grip  on  the  old 


HE   HAD    HIM    ON   THE   GROUND    IN    A   MOMENT, 


man's  wrists  when  a  dagger  flashed  into  sight. 
The  other  |)ilgrim  had  to  be  knocked  down  for 
safety's  sake.  Whilst  we  held  them  down 
Somers  gagged  them  and  tied  their  hands  and 
feet  with  tlieir  tnrlwns,  torn  into  strips  for  that 
purpose. 

The  work  was  barely  finished  when  Somers, 


lifting    his   head   from   the  task,   cried:  "Great 
Scot!     Lookout!     There's  a  troop  coming!'' 

Rumbolt  and  I  started  u[).  Around  a  curve, 
about  a  mile  along  the  road  towards  Jeddah,  a 
band  of  pilgrims  was  coming  into  sight,  their 
white  robes  plainly  visible  in  the  gathering 
darkness. 

"  Here,  we  must  get  out  of  this ! "  said 
Rumbolt.  He  dashed  off  the  road  and  away 
amongst  some  bushes,  Somers  and  I  at  his 
heels.     Before  he  had  gone  fifty  yards  he  had 

snatched  off  his  outer 
Eastern  garment  and  was 
running  in  his  dull- 
coloured  English  under- 
clothing. The  reason  of 
this  was  so  patent  to 
Somers  and  me  that  we 
immediately  imitated 
him.  Thus  we  sped  along 
during  about  twenty 
minutes.  Then  there 
came  across  the  inter- 
vening stretch  of  country 
the  faint  warning  wail  of 
the  pilgrims.  They  had 
found  the  two  unfortu- 
nates we  had  left  trussed 
up  on  the  road. 

This  was  the  last  straw 
on  the  camel's  back,  ^\'e 
guessed  that  information 
of  us  would  be  sent  at 
once  both  to  Mecca  and 
to  Jeddah,  so  that  to  go 
on  now  would  be  sheer 
madness.  So,  after  tear- 
ing up  some  clothing  to 
tie  about  our  feet  in 
place  of  boots,  we  made 
the  best  of  our  way  back 
to  where  our  Euroi)ean 
clothes  had  been  hidden. 
Tlie  place  was  reached 
before  daybreak.  There 
we  lay  in  hiding  and 
slept  in  turns  till  night, 
then  stole  along  the 
beach  towards  the  city.  We  borrowed  the  first 
untended  boat  we  came  across  and  rowed  out 
to  our  ship.  Needless  to  say,  we  were  mightily 
pleased  when  safely  aboard  again. 

The  affair  cost  us  a  day's  wage  each  and  a 
serious  lecture  from  the  "old  man,"  to  whom 
we  had   to  explain   our  absence. 


An  out-of-the-way  adventure  in  a  Surrey  village.  A  "tame"  puma  escaped  one  night  from  the 
house  at  which  the  author  was  staying,  and  the  gentlemen  of  the  household  had  to  organize  an 
expedition  there    and  then  to  go    in   chase  of  the  fugitive  —  a    most    uncomfortable   undertakmg    in 

the  dark,  and  not  unattended  with  danger. 


HIl.E    spending   a  few    weeks    with 
some  friends  in    Surrey    some  time 


ago 


I  had  a  most  exciting  and  un- 
looked-for adventure,  in  the  shape 
of  a  desperate  chase  after  a  puma. 

My  friends,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  W.  R.  Orde,  had 
taken  a  charming  cottage  in  the  dehghtfully 
sechided  little  village  of  West  Horsley,  which 
lies  wrapped  in  wood  and  leaf  backed  by  copse 
and  heather,  in  a  way  typical  of  Surrey.  A 
thick  hedge  running  along  the  end  of  the  lawn 
protected  the  house  from  the  dust  of  the  highway, 
and  also  from  the  curious  gaze  of  passers-by, 
who  were,  however,  few  and  far  between.  At 
the  back  of  the  cottage  came  first  the  kitchen 
garden  and  then  the  paddock,  shared  by  the 
jioultry  and  two  or  three  foolish-looking  goats, 
who  never  seemed  to  remember  that  they  were 
tethered,  and  were  continually  darting  off  in 
different  directions,  only  to  be  pulled  up  with  a 
jerk  when  they  had  reached  the  limit  of  freedom 
allowed  them. 

My  hostess,  who  was  a  great  lover  of  animals, 
possessed  also  a  monkey,  who  lived  in  a  snugly- 
hned  barrel  fi.xed  in  the  fork  of  an  old  apple 
tree.  He  descended  now  and  then  to  pick  u[j 
one  of  the  small  Persian  kittens  that  were  often 
tumbling  about  within  reach  of  his  chain.  At 
first  they  resented  the  indignity,  but  after  a  time 
submitted  meekly  and  became  good  friends 
with  the  proprietor  of  the  barrel.  The  list  of 
pets  also  included  four  or  five  dogs,  a  cockatoo, 
and,  perhaps  strangest  of  all,  a  puma. 

puma   was    brought   while   very   young 


The 


from  South  America,  and  as  he  was  very  quiet 
and  well-behaved  he  was  kept  in  the  yard, 
chained  to  an  old  crate  which  had  been  turned 
into  a  temporary  kennel.  For  hours  together 
he  would  lie  quietly  on  the  straw,  under  which 
he  frequently  hid  pieces  of  meat  to  eat  at 
leisure,  or  to  spread  about  in  front  of  his  kennel 
as  a  bait  for  birds  or  chickens.  If  any  of  these 
were  unwary  enough  to  api)roach,  he  pounced 
upon  the  unlucky  intruders  with  unfailing 
accuracy  and  devoured  them.  At  night  he  was 
often  restless,  and  would  walk  up  and  down 
outside  the  kennel  rattling  his  chain  and 
growling  horribly,  in  a  way  that  disturbed  me 
very  much,  as  my  bedroom  was  at  the  back  of 
the  house. 

One  morning  the  kennel  was  missing  from  the 
back  of  the  yard,  also  the  milk-can  ;  but  they 
were  soon  found  close  together.  Icho — that  was 
the  [)uma's  name — had  evidently  dragged  his 
kennel  into  the  avenue,  where  he  had  confronted 
the  milkman  on  his  morning  round.  Believing 
discretion  to  be  the  better  part  of  valour,  that 
affrighted  worthy  had  dropped  the  milk-can 
just  inside  the  gate  and  fled. 

At  breakfast  that  morning  I  suggested  to  my 
host  that  it  would  soon  be  necessary  to  con- 
fine the  animal  in  some  l)etter  way,  as  he  was 
getting  very  strong  and  could  no  longer  be 
looked  upon  as  the  gentle  little  pet  he  was  when 
he  first  arrived  in  England.  The  other  guests 
took  my  view  of  the  matter,  but  my  host  and  his 
wife  laughed  at  our  fears  and  said  Icho  was 
much   too   tame   to   hurt  anyone,  and    that   by 


5^2 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


kecpinj4  liim  in 
tliis  way  he  made 
an  excellent 
watch-dog.  This 
last  was  true 
enough,  as  it  soon 
became  known 
in  the  village  that 
a  "lion"  was 
always  walking 
up  and  down  the 
avenue  ready  to 
devour  anything 
from  a  butcher's 
boy  to  a  milk- 
can,  which  re- 
port kept  the 
place  beautifully 
clear  of  tramps. 

Another  morn- 
ing it  was  found 
Icho  had  spent 
the  night  drag- 
ging himself  and 


From  a  Photo.  by\ 


MR.    ORDE  S   COTTAGE   AT   WEST   HORSLEV. 


\J.  J.  J\/ars/i,  Norshain. 


!■    MUS.    W.    R.    ORDE. 

J-rom  a  Photo,  liy  J.  J.  Marsh,  Horsham. 


his  kennel  to  the  stable,  where  the  gardener 
saw  him  crouching  and  sniffing  outside  the 
door.  After  this  and  other  signs  of  a  grow- 
ing thirst  for  adventure,  if  not  tor  blood,  a 
strong  collar  was  ordered — the  one  he  wore 
was  only  made  of  leather  and  was  rather  the 
worse  for  wear — and  Mr.  Orde  set  to  work 
to  make  a  suitable  cage  for  him. 

Unfortunately,  there  was  some  delay  about 
procuring  the  right  kind  of  collar,  and  in 
the  meantime,  as  Icho  had  again  become 
very  quiet  and  docile — even  allowing  himself 
to  be  stroked  with  a  straw  or  a  stick,  when 
he  would  purr  in  a  quiet  and  anrable  way 
like  his  more  domesticated  relative  —  we 
grew  as  callous  and  indififerent  to  the  pro.xi- 
mity  of  danger  as  dwellers  upon  the  slopes 
of  a  volcano. 

The  rude  awakening  came  one  night,  long 
after  we  had  all  gone  to  bed.  It  was  a  very 
hot  night,  and  I  was  lying  awake,  oppressed 
by  the  close,  thundery  atmosphere,  when 
suddenly  I  heard  a  commotion  on  the  stairs. 
I  sprang  out  of  bed,  and  opening  my  door 
a  few  inches  heard  one  of  the  servants  say  : 
"  He's  really  gone  this  time,  ma'am  ;  there 
ain't  no  sign  of  him  anywhere." 

I  guessed  at  once  what  had  happened, 
got  (juickly  into  some  clothes,  and  ran  down 
to  offer  my  help.  I  found  Mrs.  Orde  stand- 
ing in  the  hall  attired  in  a  loose  lacey  sort 
of  garment,  the  kind  of  thing  I've  heard 
my  sister  call  a  "  peignoir  " — why,  I'm  sure 
I  don't  know.     The  gardener  and  the  cook 


A    PUMA    HUNT    IN    SURREY. 


513 


were  there  too,  and  the  latter  was  telling  them 
how  she  had  heard  W'ea/.el,  the  little  terrier, 
whining  in  the  yard,  and,  .sup[)osing  someone 
had  accidentally  shut  him  out,  she  came  down 
to  let  him  in,  when  she  saw  two  great  glassy 
eyes  staring  at  her  out  of  the 
darkness.  She  shut  the  door 
with  a  bang  and  called  the 
gardener,  who 
went  out  to  re- 
connoitre and 
found  the  ken- 
nel dragged 
a  w  ay  some 
yards  from  its 
usual  position, 
with  the  chain 
and  a  piece  of 
the  old  collar 
dangling  from  it 
— but  no  puma! 

Mr.  Orde  now 
ap|)eared  at  the 
to[)  of  the  stairs 
in  night  -  shirt 
and  trousers, 
followed  by 
Jack,  one  of  the 
other  guests, 
wrapped  in  a 
dressing  -  gown 
w  h  i  c  h  must 
ha\e  belonged 
to  his  younger 
brother,  judging 
by  its  inability 
to  cover  its 
wearer's  calves. 
When  he  saw 
our  hostess 
poor  Jack  be- 
came painfully 
aware  of  the 
shortcomings  of 
his  dressing- 
gown,  and  slunk 
downstairs 
close  behind 
Mr.  Orde  in 
an  attitude  suggestive  of  severe  cramp. 

The  gardener  provided  us  with  weapons— a 
hay-rake,  a  pitch-fork,  a  stout  stick,  and  some 
rope — and  thus  armed  we  prepared  to  sally  forth 
into  the  unknown,  when  a  shrill  scream  from 
the  front  bedroom  made  us  pause  in  terrible 
suspense.  It  came  from  the  room  occupied  by 
Jack  and  his  wife.  He  had  left  her  in  a  highly 
nervous  state,  but,  cumbered  as  he  was  by 
his  lack  of  clothing,  he  made  no  effort  to  go 

VoL  xi.— 66. 


back  to  her  assistance.  However,  Mrs.  Orde 
rushed  upstairs,  and  found  her  almost  in 
hysterics.  She  declared  she  had  seen  the 
puma  on  the  window-sill,  and  had  only  just  shut 
the  window  in  time  to  prevent  him  from  jump- 


MR.  ORDE  NOW  APPEARED  AT  THE  TOP  OF  THE  STAIKS,  KUl.I.out.U  IV  JACK. 


ing  in  !  Mrs.  Orde,  who  generally  managed  to 
keep  her  head  in  an  emergency,  prom[)tly  extin- 
guished the  lights  in  the  room  and  cjuietly 
opened  the  window  a  few  inches.  They  heard 
a  movement  amongst  the  ivy,  and  then  a  slight 
purring,  and  the  next  moment  they  could  see 
the  Persian  cat,  a  great,  fluffy,  gentle  creature, 
come  and  press  up  against  the  window-pane, 
wherewith  a  pathetic  "meow"  she  begged  for 
admission. 


5'4 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


As  soon  as  we  heard  this  was  a  false  alarm  we 
shouldered  arms  and  started  off,  taking  with  us 
the  new  collar,  which  had  come  by  post  that 
afternoon.  Although  it  was  a  dark  night  it  was 
considered  wiser  to  have  no  light  with  us. 
^\■hether  this  was  the  best  thing  to  do  or  not  I 
cannot  say,  but  all  I  know  is  that  to  be  obliged 
to  grope  about  in  the  dark  did  not  make  the  job 
plea.santer.  We  hunted  in  all  directions,  first  in 
couples,  and  then,  as  we  got  more  accustomed 
to  the  dark,  singly,  but  all  to  no  purpose.  It 
seemed  a  hopeless  task,  for  within  a  few 
minutes'  walk  of  the  house  fields  stretched  away 
in  all  directions,  with  tall  hedges  and  deep 
ditches,  while  away  to  the  back  were  the  woods, 
and  if  Icho  once  reached  them  he  could  defy  a 
small  regiment  for  some  time  before  he  could 
be  caught. 

As  we  crept  along,  not  daring  to  speak,  the 
slightest  rustle  of  the  leaves  made  us  start  and 
stiip.  I  confess  that  tliough  I  am  a  keen  sports- 
UKui,  and  not  generally  considered  much  of  a 
coward,  this  sort  of  business  was  not  exactly  to 
my  taste.  I'Lvery  now  and  then  I  had  a  sensa- 
tion of  .something  sneaking  stealthily  along  close 
behind,  as  if  only  waiting  for  a  favourable 
moment  to  spring  at  me.  As  we  continued  our 
search  the  air  grew  closer  and  stiller,  and 
presently  there  was  a  faint  glimpse  of  light,  and 
a  ( lap  of  distant  thunder  told  us  a  storm  was 
gathering.  It  was  some  time  yet  before  the 
lightning  became  very  vivid,  but  gradually  the 
storm  came  nearer  until  at  last  a  brilliant 
flash  momentarily  lit  up  the  whole  country 
round.  It  was  then  that  I  saw  I  was  in  a 
lifld  next  to  the  paddock.  A  few  yards  ahead 
of  mc  stood  Mr.  Orde,  and  as  I  looked  I  saw 
him  make  a  dash  for  the  hedge.  Then  he 
gave  a  long  whistle.  Once  more  all  was  dark, 
and  the  thunder  rolled  directly  over  our  heads. 
I  rushed  up  to  him,  nearly  knocking  him  down. 

"  It's  all  right,"  he  .said  ;  "  we've  got  him.  I 
thouglit  I  heard  him  spit,  and  I  saw  him  just 
now  as  plain  as  day ;  he's  stuck  fast  in  the 
hedge,  jack  is  on  the  other  side  and  won't  let 
him  pass  liiat  way." 

As  I  thought  of  Jack's  unprotected  calves  I 
wondered  if  Icho  could  i)ossibly  resist  attacking 
such  tempting  nu^rsels. 

An(4her  flash,  more  vivid  than  the  last, 
showefl  us  clearly  that  the  puma  was  indeed 
■stuck  in  the  hedge,  but  was  struggling  des- 
perately to  e.\tricate  himself  Mr.  Orde  sprang 
forward  and  caught  him  by  the  hind  leg  and 
th<n  the  neck,  and  dragged  iiiin  l.a<  i<  with 
tremendous  force.  The  gardener  now  ran  up 
and  gave  him  a  .savage  blow  on  the  head  with  a 
thirk  stick,  which  seemed  to  temporarily  stun  the 
brute.     Seizing  the  advantage  thus  gained,  we 


instantly  pinned  him  down  by  his  neck  with  my 
pitchfork,  and  put  on  the  new  collar.  As  he 
lay  quite  still  we  waited  there  while  Jack  ran 
back  to  the  house  to  fetch  a  lantern,  and  also  a 
chain,  which  we  fixed  on  there  and  then.  As 
we  prepared  for  the  homeward  journey  great 
drops  of  rain  were  falling,  and  before  we  got  to 
the  house  it  was  raining  steadily-- to  our  no 
small  discomfort. 

I  can  well  believe  that,  as  the  ladies  declared 
afterwards,  we  presented  a  noble  spectacle  as 
we  marched  in  proud  triumph  into  the  yard, 
which  they  had  lighted  up  with  two  lanterns 
when  Jack  had  told  them  of  our  success. 

After  Jack  came  Mr.  Orde,  dragging  Icho, 
who  now  seemed  in  a  dead  sulk.  Next  came 
the  gardener  with  his  thick  stick  in  one  hand 
and  the  huge  fork  in  the  other,  ready  to  drive  it 
into  the  poor  beast  at  the  slightest  sign  of  rebel- 
lion. I  brought  up  the  rear  with  a  large  hay- 
rake  and  several  yards  of  clothes-line. 

Icho  was  at  once  chained  up  securely,  and  a 
big  rooster  was  brought  from  the  fowl-house  to 
soothe  his  rufiled  temper. 

We  then  extinguished  our  lanterns,  and  by 
the  glimmer  of  coming  dawn  we  drank  his 
health,  and,  glowing  with  a  sense  of  hard-won 
victory  and  well-earned  rest,  we  once  more 
sought  our  beds. 

Next  day  wonderful  reports  were  spread  in 
the  village  as  to  the  damage  wrought  by  the 
bloodthirsty  "lion."  It  was  said  he  had  not 
been  recaptured,  and  he  had  been  seen  in  at 
least  half-a-dozen  places  at  the  same  time  ;  the 
destruction  he  had  done  was  enormous,  and  he 
had  devoured  everything  that  came  in  his  way, 
from  chickens  to  children  ;  in  short,  he  became 
the  terror  of  the  neighbourhood. 

After  this  escapade  Mr.  Orde  felt  reluctantly 
compelled  to  get  rid  of  him,  so  he  was  sold  to 
the  Clifton  Zoo.  When  the  day  came  for  his 
departure  I  went  down  to  see  the  last  of  him, 
and  to  help  in  arranging  the  details  of  his 
journey.  We  placed  him,  chain  and  all,  in  a 
large  crate,  passed  the  chain  through  a  hole, 
and  secured  it  outside.  The  crate  was  then 
put  on  the  dog  -  cart,  and  Mr.  Orde,  Jack, 
and  I  (hove  with  it  to  Ouildford.  When  we 
reached  Merrow,  Icho,  who  resented  this  incon- 
siderate treatment,  suddenly  burst  open  the 
crate  and,  getting  his  head  and  front  j)aws  well 
out,  stood  up  and  for  a  few  moments  took  pos- 
session of  the  dogcart.  Things  looked  ugly, 
but  by  a  severe  application  of  the  whip  we 
forced  him  back  into  the  crate,  and  I  believe 
Mr.  Orde  and  Jack  sat  on  it  while  1  went  into  a 
small  shop  and  procured  some  long  nails,  a 
hammer,  and  some  more  rope.  Having  secured 
him  once  more  we  drove  on  to  Ckiildford  with- 


A    PUMA     IILXI'    I\    SURRi:V. 


5'5 


MR.    ORDF.   CAU(;ilT    HliM    HV    THE    HIND    LEG    AND    THEN   THE   NECK. 


out  further  incident,  and  saw  him  off  in  the  care 
of  Mr.  Orde. 

The  porters  seemed  anxious  to  know  what 
was  in  the  crate,  but  we  did  not  enlighten  them. 

Two  men  from  the  Zoo  met  the  train  at 
Bristol  with  a  van,  in  which  Icho  was  driven  off 
to  his  new  home.  Mrs.  Orde,  with  whose  per- 
mission I  write  this,  and  who  has  lent  me  the 
accompanying  [)hotographs,  tells  me  she  went 
to  see  him  not  very  long  ago.     He  had  grown 


a  good  deal  and  seemed  in  excellent  condition. 
When  she  called  him  by  his  name  Icho  jumj)ed 
up,  came  to  the  front  of  the  cage,  and  looked 
hard  at  her.  We  know  so  little  about  the 
mental  equipment  of  the  lower  animals  that 
we  naturally  hesitate  to  make  statements  about 
them  that  can  neither  be  proved  nor  refuted  ; 
but  I  think  I  may  safely  say  that  Mrs.  Orde  is 
quite  satisfied  in  her  own  mind  that  Icho 
remembered  her. 


The  Result  of  an  Ice  Jam — Something  Like  a  Harvest— An  Extraordinary  Shipwreck — Burmese 
Cargo  Boats — A  Church  that  has  been  Turned  into  an  Hotel,  etc.,  etc. 


I  \i  breaking-up  of  the  ice  in  tlie  St. 
Lawrence  every  spring  is  looked  for- 
ward to  with  much  anxiety,  especially 
;it  Montreal,  as  disastrous  floods  are 
likely  to  occur  at  this  time.  During 
the  spring  of  1903,  for  instance,  there  was  a  flood 
which  rose  above  the  wharves  and  inundated 
the   riverside   warehouses,    the   water   reaching 


nearly  to  the  top  of  the  retaining  wall  along  the 
street  facing  the  river.  After  several  days,  how- 
ever, the  water  slowly  receded,  the  ice-jam  broke, 
and  the  danger  was  past.  Our  photograph  shows 
the  result  of  one  of  these  dangerous  ice-jams. 
Wharves  and  freight-sheds  alike  are  buried  out 
of  sight  under  huge  masses  of  ice,  which  has 
risen  to  the  level  of  the  street  seen  to  the  left. 


from  a\ 


THE  RESULT  01 


l-L-J/\M    AT    MONTKIiAL. 


[Photo. 


ODDS    AND    ENDS. 


517 


BUYING  UF   OLD    HOUSES    IN    ORDER    TO    SEARCH    FOR    DIAMONDS    IN    TH 

From  a\  AN  industry  in  kimberley. 


The  town  of  Kimberley  is,  literally,  paved 
with  diamonds.  Nowhere  else  in  the  world 
could  such  a  scene  be  witnessed  as  that  depicted 
in  the  foregoing  photograph,  which  shows 
men  engaged  in  "  washing "  the  debris  of  a 
house  that  has  been  demolished  in  the  hope  of 
finding  diamonds  in  the  sun-baked  material   of 


its  walls  !  The  buying-up  of 
old  houses  is  cjuite  a  business 
in  the  diamond  metropolis, 
the  speculators  trusting  to 
find  enough  stones  in  the 
property  to  pay  for  the  outlay 
and  return  a  good  profit  as 
well. 

Out  in  the  Western  States 
of  America,  and  all  along  the 
lines  of  the  Pacific  Railway, 
the  farmers  rea[)  Indian  corn 
crops  of  extraordinary  rich- 
ness. It  is  the  usual  thing  for 
them  to  gather  in  two  crops 
per  annum,  and  three  crops 
are  quite  common,  while  four 
crops  in  a  single  year  are  not 
unknown.  The  lucky  Western 
farmer  is  sowing  his  seed 
almost  before  his  crops  are 
gathered,  and  the  corn,  when 
in  its  prime,  is  a  beautiful 
sight ;  it  grows  straight  up 
to  a  great  height,  so  that  the 
trains  seem  to  be  running  through  a  never- 
ending  vista  of  dazzling  golden  yellow  grain, 
waving  and  swaying  as  the  wind  passes  over  it. 
Our  photograph  shows  the  result  of  the  harvest 
in  one  field.  The  size  of  the  piles  and  of  the 
individual  ears  of  corn  will  be  seen  by  com- 
parison with  the  man  on  the  left. 


E    MUD  WALLS    IS   QUITE 

\Photo. 


--:^^. 


From  a] 


SOMETHING    LIKE    A    11 A  K".l:- I  —  AN    INUIAN    l-UKN    v.Kuf    IN     iiii^    >m- .~  i  i 


[Photo. 


5i8 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


A   CIIIN'ESE    "MEMORIAL    ARCH     — THIS    PARTICULAR    SPECIMEN    HAS 
llEKN    EKECTED    IN    HONOUR   OF    A    WlDOw's    FIDELITY   TO    HER 

l-'rotn  ii\  husiiand's  memory.  [Phoio. 

Ornamental  archway.s  are  a  prominent  feature 
in  Chinese  architecture,  and  ore  found  both 
inside  and  outside  the  cities  of  that  vast  empire. 
These  archways  often  appear  very  meaningless, 
having  no  connection  with  any  of  the  neigh- 
bouring buildings,  or  even  standing  far  removed 
from  any  other  building.  Their  raisons  d'etre 
are  many  and  various.  One  very  usual  kind  is 
the  "  widow's  memorial  arch."  It  is  considered 
a  disgrace  for  a  (Chinese  widow 
to  remarry,  though  a  widower 
may  do  so  as  soon  as  he  likes. 
Accordingly,  though  a  widow 
in  poor  circumstances  often 
does  marry  again— in  order  to 
secure  support  for  herself  and 
her  little  ones  or  is  sold  into 
a  second  marriage  against  her 
will  by  gras[)ing  parents-in-law, 
this  alliance  never  has  (juite 
the  dignity  of  a  first  marriage. 
lUit  if  a  woman  is  left  a 
widow  while  comparatively 
young,  and  rentains  so  till  her 
death  at  an  advanced  age,  her 
son  (if  he  be  a  loving  child 
and  can  afford  the  expense) 
often  petitions  the  Throne  for 
i<»n  to  erect  a  memorial 

honour  of  his  mother's 

'-•on Stan cy.  An  arc  h  of  this 
kind  is  shown  in  the  above 
I)hutograph.     Another  variety 


of  arch  is  that  erected  in  memory  of  a  cen- 
tenarian. When  a  Chinaman  has  attained  the 
age  of  a  hundred  he  is  entitled  to  make  the 
fact  known  to  the  mandarin  of  his  district, 
who  in  turn  passes  it  on  till  it  reaches  the 
Emperor,  who  gives  permission  for  the  erec- 
tion of  an  arch  in  honour  of  his  venerable 
subject. 

I'he  extraordinary-looking  vessels  seen  in  the 
following  snap-shot  are  Burmese  cargo-boats 
on  the  Irawaddy  River.  The  chief  peculi- 
arity about  these  craft  is  their  enormous  sail 
area.  They  are  square-rigged,  carrying  one 
huge  bamboo  yard  across  the  mast  over  a 
hundred  feet  long,  and  supported  in  a  graceful 
curve  by  running  rigging.  The  sails  are  hauled 
out  and  in,  like  great  curtains,  and  not  up  and 
down  as  in  ordinary  vessels.  Above  tliis 
enoimous  sail  a  topsail  of  large  area  is  often 
carried,  whilst  the  mast  itself  consists  of  two 
long  bamboos  lashed  together  at  the  top  to  form 
an  inverted  V,  with  steps  across  by  way  of  a 
ladder.  In  spite  of  its  apparent  awkwardness 
the  whole  arrangement  is  very  ingenious,  and 
well  suited  to  its  purpose.  Having  no  keels, 
these  boats  can  practically  only  run  before  the 
wind  ;  at  other  times  they  must  be  poled  along, 
the  yard  and  mast  being  lowered  and  stowed 
away  till  again  required.  The  steersman  sits  in 
a  high  chair  on  the  stern,  a  large  opening  being 
left  in  the  foot  of  the  sail  to  allow  him  to  see 
clear  ahead.  With  a  good  wind  these  boats 
can  travel  wonderfully  fast.  The  vessel  at  the 
far  end  of  the  row,  it  will  be  observed,  has  her 
sails  set. 


Kr.O-liOATS 


ON     IMK    IRAWADDY    RIVER — NOTICE   THE    IMMENSE   SAIL    AKI-A. 

From  a  Pholo. 


ODDS    AND    ENDS. 


5 '9 


Churclies  are  occasion- 
ally put  to  strange  uses, 
but  it  is  seldom  that  one 
is  converted  into  an  hotel. 
One  of  the  sights  of  Tuc- 
son, Arizona,  is  the  old 
San  Augustine  Mission, 
recently  turned  into  an 
hotel.  No  alterations 
have  been  made  on  the 
exterior  save  the  removal 
of  the  crosses  from  the 
towers  and  the  painting  of 
a  sign  over  the  entrance. 
The  main  portion  of  the 
church  proper  is  now  the 
dining-room,  the  high  ceil- 
ing and  deep-set  windows 
remaining  intact.  The 
chancel  has  been  screened 
to  form  a  private  dining- 
room.       The    pillars    and 

altar  -  steps  still  remain,  and  overhead,  now 
faded  with  age,  is  an  old  fresco  representing  the 
Trinity.  The  walls  that  for  many  a  decade 
resounded  with  the  deep  chanting  of  the 
priests  now  echo  the  prosaic  rattle  of  dishes 
and  the  confused  sounds  of  a  modern  hotel 
dining-room. 

Our  next  photograph  was  taken  at  Kleinpoort, 
Cape  Colony,  and  shows  an  ostrich  nest  which 
was  discovered  by  a  local  resident  on  one  of 
the  farms  in  that  district,  'i^he  nest  contained 
no  fewer  than  fifty-two  eggs,  not  all  of  which  are 
visible  in   the   photograph.      Evidently   two    or 


i 


% 


I 


J-  >oin  a\ 


A    CHUKCH    THAT    HAS    DEFN    TURNED    INTO    AN    Hol'EL. 


[Photo. 


more  birds  had  been  laying  their  eggs  in  the 
same  spot.  The  picture  gives  a  good  idea  of 
the  large  size  of  ostrich  eggs. 

Every  three  years  all  Chinamen  domiciled  in 
Siam  have  to  pay  a  small  poll-tax.  When  this  has 
been  paid  the  collector  ties  a  string  round  the 
man's  left   wrist    and    fastens   the    knot  with   a 


rro)na,  an  om  kicii   Ntsi    in  caie  colony. 


[/'/it'/i'. 


h'rovi  a\         A    "  BRACEI  ET    RECRTPt"    EOK    a     l  ax.         I /'//,'/.'. 

special  oflicial  seal.  'Hie  curious  Ijracelet  tluis 
formed  constitutes  John  Chinaman's  receipt, 
and  must  be  worn  for  a  period  of  one  month. 
If  caught  out  without  it,  he  must  pay  over  again. 
It  is  distinctly  edifying  to  watch  the  police  and 
revinui'  ofhcLMs  rounding  up  the  Celestials  at 
ta\-tiinc  and  inspecting  their  arms.  Free  fights 
are  of  common  occurrence,  and  it  is  said  that 
many  iumdreds  of  Chinamen  evade  payment 
altogether  by  wearing  counterfeit  strings  and  seals. 


520 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


AS    KXTh'AORDINAkV 

From  a  Photo. 


The  photograph  above  shows  an  extraordinary 
shipwreck  which  took  place  on  the  shore  be- 
tween I'enarth  and  Cardiff  some  years  ago.  A 
steamer  left  ("ardiff,  without  a  i)ilot  on  board, 
during  a  spell  of  bad  weather.  She  soon  got 
into  difficulties  and  was  finally  driven  ashore 
broadside  on.  Here  the  fierce  waves  broke  her 
in  two  and,  curiously  enough,  laid  the  fore  half 
of  her  neatly  alongside  the  stern,  as  shown  in  the 
phfitograph,  which 
gives  the  appearance 
of  two  vessels  lying 
side  by  side.  Such 
an  occurrence  nmst 
surely  be  almost 
unifjue  in  the  way  of 
shipwrecks. 

The  accompanying 
illustration  shows  a 
'  l'.-  which  is 
■iially  to  be 
witnessed  in  Shang 
hai— a  Sikh  poli< . 
man  taking  two  i'.\\\- 
nese  prisoners  out 
for    exercise.       The 


the  heavy  boards  they  wear  round  their  necks, 
and  their  hands  are  so  tied  up  as  to  render 
escape  impossible,  even  if  their  uncomfortable 
neck-wear  would  allow  them  to  run. 

The  remarkable-looking  tree  shown  in  the 
photograph  herewith  is  a  well-known  landmark, 
and  there  is  a  curious  Indian  legend  concern- 


are  wntten   m 
nese    characters 


\ 

:cd 

Chi- 
on 


THIS   TREE   IS   A   WELL-KNOWN    LANDMARK,    AND   THERE    IS   A 
Front  a\        CURIOUS    INDIAN    LEGEND   CONCERNING    IT.  \_FhotO. 

ing  its  origin.  This  legend  says:  "A  great, 
big  paleface,  Holden  by  name,  camped  here 
one  night.     He  stuck  his  cane — a  green  branch 

he  had  broken  off  a 
tree — in  the  ground 
while   he  went   to 
gather  some  fire- 
wood.      A  grizzly 
bear  coming  along  so 
scared    Holden  that 
he  ran  away,  leaving 
his    cane    behind. 
;     The  cane  took  root 
'      and  grew,  retaining, 
,,      however,  its  original 
shape."   The  legend, 
of    course,    may    or 
:      may   not     be     true, 
,  but  the  tree  is  there, 

f^  quite  destitute  of 
branches,  and  bear- 
ing a  remarkable 
resemblance      to     a 

From  a  Photo.  fude    Walkmg-StlCk. 


Ill';   WAS  STANDING   ON    rill-.    KOOF  OF  THF:  CABIN   AND  THE  FLOOR  WAS 

ABOVE    HIS    HEAD  !" 


(SEE  I'AC.K  523.) 


The  Wide  World  Magazine. 


Vol.  XI. 


OCTOBER,    1903. 


No.  66. 


SnfombGd  in  a  Capsized   Ship. 

By  Fr.axk  S.  N.   Punshv,  of  The  Se.^man's  Institute,  Np:ufahr\vasser,  Germa^jy. 


in 


the     records   of    sea    adventure.       It    is 


The     story    here     related     is     almost    without     a    parallel 
amazing   that    a    man    could    go    through    the  experience  which    befell  Captain    Engellandt    and   live    to 
tell    the   tale.      The  captain  was    specially    interviewed    on    behalf  of  "  The   Wide    World    Magazine," 
and    his    portrait    and    other    interesting   photographs  were  secured. 


APTAIN  HANS  ENGELLANDT 
is  a  young  married  man  of  thirty- 
one,  *\ith  two  children.  He  is 
skipper  and  owner  of  the  Ei-ndte^  a 
new  steel  "  galliot,"  or  sloop,  of  some 
eighty  odd  tons. 

The  Erndte  left   Memel  on  April   i6th    last 
with   a  cargo  of  timber 


for  Bremen.  Captain 
Engellandt  was  in  com- 
mand, and  his  crew 
consisted  of  a  mate — 
his  brother-in-law — and 
two  men. 

It  was  blowing  hard 
when  the  voyage  began, 
but  nevertheless  the 
captain  held  on,  hoping 
to  make  a  quick  pas- 
sage, the  wind  being 
favourable.  About 
midday,  however,  the 
weather  changed  for 
the  worse.  The  wind 
steadily  increased  and 
icy  showers  of  rain  and 
snow  fell  frequently. 
1  )eeply  laden  as  she 
was,  and  carrying  a 
heavy  deck  load,  some 
three  or  four  feet 
high,  the  galliot 
laboured  badly  in 
the  rising  sea,  and 
accordingly  sail    liad    to    be    shortened. 

By  seven   o'clock   in   the   evening  a  full   gale 

was  blowing,  with  a  heavy  sea  ;  but  the  vessel, 

being  now  under  a  treble-reefed  mainsail,  did 

not  ship  any  water.      By  midnight,  however,  the 

gale  had  become  a  veritable   hurricane,  and  the 

little   galliot    drove    ahead    swiftly    before    the 
Vol.  xi.-  6Q, 


roaring  wind  and  following  sea.  This  state  of 
affairs  continued  until  5  a.m.  on  the  morning  of 
the  19th,  when  the  ship  had  covered,  according 
to  the  log,  a  hundred  and  twenty  miles. 
During  the  whole  of  this  time  Captain  Engellandt 
had  been  at  the  wheel,  steering  his  vessel 
through   the  storm   and   encouraging  his  little 

crew.  Needless  to  say, 
he  was  wet  through 
and  thoroughly  exhaus- 
ted with  his  long  vigil, 
and  as  there  did  not 
seem  to  be  any  imme- 
diate cause  for  anxiety 
he  gladly  relinquished 
the  wheel  to  the  mate 
while  he  went  down  to 
his  cabin*  to  put  on 
some  dry  clothes  and 
get  a  much -needed  rest. 
He  had  only  just  com- 
pleted the  change — the 
operation  being  ren- 
dered somewhat  diffi- 
cult by  the  rolling  and 
pitching  of  the  galliot  — 
when  the  vessel  gave  a 
tremendous  lurch  and 
threw  him  off  his  feet, 
hurling  him  with  con- 
siderable violence  into 


HANS    ENGELLANDT,     THE     CAi'TAI 
PASSED    ELEVEN     1>AVS    EIGHTEEN 

Fro}n  a\  smi" 


N     OF     THE  EKNDTE,       WHO 

HOURS    INSIDE   THE   CAPSIZED 

\Photo. 


a  corner. 

On    picking    himself 

up  Captain  Engellandt 
looked  around  in  absolute  bewilderment.  What 
on  earth  had  happened?  And  what  was  amiss 
with  the  trim  little  cabin  ?  Then  like  a  flash  he 
realized  that  he  was  standing  on  the  roof  of  the 
cabin,  and  that  the  floor  was  above  his  head! 
With    the    recognition   of  this 


strange  state  of 


•  The  mate  and  crew  had  a  house  on  deck. 


524 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


affairs  came  the  knowledge  of  its  cause.  The 
ship  had  capsized— turned  turtle— and  was  now 
floating  keel  upwards  !  And  he  was  caged — 
caught  underneath  the  ship  like  a  rat  in  a  trap  ! 

If  further  confirmation  of  this  terrible  fact 
were  needed  it  was  furnished  \>y  the  bilge-water 
from  the  vessel's  hold  — now  above  the  prisoner's 
head— which  ran  down  the  sides  of  the  cabin 
towards  what  had  been  the  roof.  This  was  now 
being  rapidly  covered  by  water  which  rose  from 
below. 

As  to  what  had  become  of  his  crew,  Engel- 
landt  could  only  surmise  that  tliey  must  have 
been  swept  overboard  and  drowned  when  the 
furious  squall  turned  his  vessel  over. 

Most  men  would  have  given  way  to  utter 
despair  upon  finding  themselves  in  such  an 
awful  position.     Not  so  Captain  Engellandt. 

The  first  thing  he  did  was  to  climb  up  as 
far  as  possible  towards  the  vessel's  keel,  out  of 
the  way  of  the  water,  which  now  covered  the 
cabin  floor  to  a  depth  of  several  feet.  It  got 
no  deeper,  however,  and  he  came  to  the 
conclusion  that  the  cargo  of  wood,  taken  in 
conjunction  with  the  quantity  of  air  imprisoned 
in  the  hull,  would  serve  to  keep  the  ship  afloat 
— for  some  time,  at  least.  He  also  ascertained 
that  the  water  ro.se  higher  up  the  ship's  side 
outside  than  in  the  cabin. 

All  this  time  the  capsized  ship  was  rolling  in 
the  heavy  seas,  and  the  water  below  the  cai)tain 
was  washing  about  the  cabin,  carrying  away 
everything  movable.  If  he  once  fell  into  that 
Engellandt  knew  that  he  would  soon  be  drowned 
or  dashed  to  pieces  against  the  ship's  side,  so 
he  set  about  making  a  perch  for  himself  as  near 
the  ship's  keel  as  possible. 

A  moment's  thought  showed  him  that,  as  his 
ship  was  eleven  feet  deep  and  the  cabin  about 
seven  feet  high,  he  had  four  feet  between  him 
and  the  keel.  By  dint  of  a  little  work  he  was 
ul)le  to  pull  away  some  of  the  planking  forming 
the  floor  of  the  cabin,  and  climb  through  into 
the  narrow  space  between  it  and  the  ship's 
plates.  Here— at  all  events  for  the  present — 
he  would  be  fairly  .safe  from  the  water  below. 

His  next  thought  was  concerning  food.  Was 
then;  any  in  the  cabin,  or  were  hunger  and 
ultimate  starvation  to  be  added  to  the  horrors 
of  his  plight  ?  With  feverish  anxiety  he  searched 
about,  'i'lie  result  was  the  discovery  of  some 
three  pounds  of  raisins,  three  pounds  of  rice,  a 
similar  (luantity  of  sugar— and  a  .sausage  !  This 
little  stock  the  prisoner  at  once  conveyed  to  a 
place  of  safety,  dividing  it  into  portions  and 
placing  himself  upon  rations,  for  how  long  he 
might  remain  cooped  up  in  that  iron  hull  before 
rescue  came  or  death  claimed  him  he  did  not 
kiui'.v. 


The  food  question  being  settled  it  remained 
to  devise  some  means  Ijy  which  he  could  make 
his  plight  known  to  passing  ships.  Here  he  was 
badly  handicapped.  A  man  alone  on  the  deck 
of  a  derelict  ship,  even  if  she  be  dismasted,  can 
usually  find  some  elevated  point,  if  only  his 
own  outstretched  arms,  from  which  he  can 
suspend  a  signal,  while  his  voice  assists  him  to 
communicate  vvitli  possible  rescuers.  But  poor 
Engellandt's  position  was  infinitely  worse.  He 
was  inside  the  wreck — buried  alive  in  the  dark- 
some vault  formed  by  the  ship's  upturned  hull  — 
and  his  voice  was  effectually  stifled  in  that 
confined  space  by  the  continual  wash  of  the 
waters  around  and  below  him. 

Einally  he  managed  to  find  a  wooden  mallet, 
and  with  this  he  struck  heavily  on  the  ship's 
iron  plates.  They  gave  forth  a  sharp  metallic 
sound,  which  he  hoped  would  be  audible  to 
some  passing  ship,  but  in  his  heart  of  hearts  he 
was  well  aware  the  sound  would  not  penetrate 
far.  Prudent  mariners,  moreover,  usually  give 
capsized  derelicts  a  wide  berth — there  is  no 
good  to  be  got  from  them,  and  much  possible 
harm.  And  what  sailor  in  his  senses  would 
dream  that  under  that  wallowing  hulk,  over 
which  the  seas  broke  continually,  there  was  a 
living  human  being  ? 

Although  he  found  a  laiiii)  and  some  matches, 
the  prisoner  did  not  light  it.  He  knew  perfectly 
well  that  the  supply  of  air  in  the  ship's  hull 
must  necessarily  be  small,  and  that  the  lamp, 
once  lighted,  would  speedily  use  up  the  oxygen, 
leaving  him  to  suffocate.  He  was  not,  however, 
jn  absolute  darkness.  In  some  way  the  diffused 
light  of  day  was  reflected  up  into  his  cabin 
through  the  water.  It  was  a  soft  light — 
resembling  that  of  tiie  moon  —  but  it  enabled 
him  to  see  perfectly. 

When  the  sun  shone  outside  the  weird  light 
in  his  prison  grew  brighter,  gradually  ebbing 
away  as  darkness  fell.  Generally  speaking,  it 
was  light  from  6  a.m.  till  6  p.m. 

During  the  long  hours  of  daylight  poor 
Engellandt  worked  unceasingly  with  his  mallet, 
knocking  continually  on  the  ship's  side,  ^^'as 
there  ever  such  a  monotonous,  heartbreaking 
task  —  fighting  against  death  in  that  floating 
tomb,  with  no  better  weapon  than  a  hammer  ? 
Eor  all  he  knew  he  was  tapping  out  his  own 
death-knell  in  those  persistent  strokes.  What 
thoughts  surged  through  his  brain  during  those 
awful  days  !  Thoughts  of  the  wife  and  little 
ones  at  home,  anxiously  awaiting  news  of  his 
ship's  safe  arrival  in  port — or,  possibly,  even 
now  mourning  him  as  dead,  consequent  on 
hearing  news  that  a  capsized  galliot  resembling 
his  had  been  sighted.  I'hc  probability  of  death 
in  his  floating  prison  he  ri'solutcly  put  from  him. 


KNTOMBEl)    IN    A    CAl'SI/.J'I)    SHI 


525 


ENGF.I.I-ANDT    WORKED    UNCEASINt.l.Y    WITH    HIS    MAl.f.ET. 


hoping  continually  for  rescue— the   rescue  that 
was  so  long  in  coming. 

When  night  came  he  coiled  himself  up  in 
some  old  sacks  and  a  spare  sail,  which  were 
stowed  near  the  keel,  and  slept.  He  knew  that 
at  any  moment,  but  especially  at  night,  some 
ship  might  strike  his  all-but-submerged  vessel 
and  send  him  headlong  to  the  bottom  of  the 
sea.  Nothing  that  he  could  do,  however,  could 
avert  such  a  contingency,  and  so  this  extra- 
ordinary man  lay  down  calmly  every  night  and 
endeavoured  to  sleep,  dozing  off  at  intervals, 
but  rarely  losing  consciousness  for  more  than 
an  hour  at  a  time. 

And  so  the  days  of  his  imprisonment  passed 
by,  each  hour  seeming  to  have  feet  of  lead.  He 
had  no  watch  or  clock,  but  he  could  tell  by  the 
light  whether  it  was  day  or  night,  and  he  made 
notches  on  a  beam  to  record  the  passage  of  the 
days.  He  had  not,  of  course,  any  idea  of  the 
direction  in  which  the  ship  was  drifting,  but 
fancied  it  was  S.S.E. 

The  notches  grew  in  number,  the  light  came 
and  went,  the  little  store  of  food  got  smaller 
and  smaller,  and  still  there  came  no  sign  of 
rescue,  no  sound  from  the  outer  world.  Ho;v 
would  it  all  end  ?  Would  it  be  suffocation  by 
the  failure  of  the  air  supply,  starvation  when  the 
food  was  exhausted,  or  would  the  wreck  sink 
with  him  beneath  the  waters  and  bring  oblivion 
that    way  ?     Many    a    man    woukl     have    gone 


raving  mad  under  the  awful  strain,  but  thii 
simple  sailor-man  still  hoped  for  rescue,  keeping 
up  his  tapping  hour  after  hour  and  day  after 
day,  till  the  mallet  was  quite  worn. 

Once  he  thought  the  end  was  very  near.  It 
was  evidently  a  bright  sunshiny  day  outside,  and 
the  sun  beating  upon  the  ship's  iron  plates 
heated  the  air  inside  to  such  an  extent  that 
Engellandt  was  presently  fighting  for  breath. 
He  shifted  his  position  lower  down,  near  the 
water,  but  the  air  was  scarcely  better  here,  and 
it  was  with  difficulty  that  he  was  able  to  breathe. 
It  seemed  as  if  everything  was  over.  Then,  just 
as  he  was  about  to  give  up  the  struggle,  a  gale 
arose,  the  sea  became  agitated,  and  with  the 
rolling  of  the  ship  the  air  freshened.  He  was 
able  to  breathe  easily  once  more,  and  for  the 
time  being  the  situation  was  saved.  Whenever 
the  sea  was  rough  the  air  inside  the  hull  seemed 
to  be  renewed,  and  the  discovery  of  this  fact 
removed  his  anxiety  about  the  air  supply. 

By  this  time  thirst  was  beginning  to  trouble 
him  somewhat,  for  no  water  was  included  in  his 
slender  stock.  He  was  never  really  hungry, 
cooped  up  there  in  that  iron  box,  but  he  would 
have  given  much  for  a  drink.  There  below  him 
was  water— dark  and  green  and  cool  and 
inviting — but  that  way  lay  madness  and  death. 
Reckoning  up  his  stores,  he  found  he  had  at 
most  three  f)r  four  days'  food  left.  And  there 
were  now  twelve  notches  on  the  beam  ! 


526 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


For  eleven  days  and  nights  he  had  existed  in 
that  floating  tomb,  drifting  along  through  the 
seas.  No  doubt  the  submerged  wreck  had  been 
sighted  many  times,  but  no  one  had  thought  it 
worth  while  to  investigate.  Would  it  be  so  to 
the  end  ?     Would  help  never  come? 

If  the  worst  came  to  the  worst  and  his  stores 
were  exhausted,  Engellandt  made  up  his  mind 
to  die  fighting.  He  would  put  a  life-belt  he  had 
in     the    cabin  .  . 

round  his  waist, 
dive  down  into 
the  water  l)elow, 
and  endeavour 
lo  open  those 
tight- jammed 
cabin  doors  and 
so  rea<h  the 
open  sea.  It  was 
a  mad  venture 
and  almost  cer- 
tain of  failure, 
but  he  might  as 
well  meet  death 
that  way  as  by 
starvation  or 
thirst  in  his  iron 
prison. 

It  was  'I'hurs- 
day,  the  30th, 
and  drawing 
towards  even- 
ing. The  light 
was  slowly  fad- 
ing from  tiie 
water,  and  all 
was  still  as  the 
grave.  Poor 
Engellandt, 
thinking  it  use- 
less lo  kno(  k 
any  more  that 
day,  had  lain 
down  on  his 
sacks  to  sleep, 
when  he  siid 
denly  started 
up,  his  pulses 
beating  wildly. 
What  was  that 
.sound  ?  Was  he  going  mad,  or  were  those 
footsteps  on  the  plates  aljove  his  head  ?  Tumj)- 
ing  up,  he  seized  his  hammer  and  knocked 
furiously,  frantically,  on  the  ship's  .side. 

A  moment's  silence,  and  then  -thank  Heaven  ! 
—there  came  an  answering  knock.  Help— so 
long  delayed  and  all  but  despaired  of— had 
arrived  at  last ! 

But    although    <)nly    a    thin     pkte    of    metal 


V 


llol.i.;   -I  HI'. 


separated  the  poor  prisoner  from  his  rescuers, 
communication  with  him  proved  a  difficult 
matter.  All  efforts  to  detach  a  plate  failed, 
but  finally  a  nut  was  loosened.  Through  the 
hole  it  covered  the  parties  were  enabled  to 
converse. 

Engellandt  learnt  tliat  his  rescuers  were  the 
mate  and  two  seamen  of  the  Norwegian  ss. 
Aurora,  Captain  Soerensen.       The  wreck    had 

been  sighted 
some  sixteen 
miles  off  Rix- 
hoft,  and  the 
boat  had  been 
sent  to  examine 
it. 

All  the  time 
the  men  were 
conversing  the 
compressed  air 
inside  tile  wreck 
was  esca[)ing 
through  the  nut- 
hole  at  a  terrific 
rate.  Captain 
Engellandt, 
fearing  that  if 
the  air  was  ex- 
hausted the  slii[) 
woukl  founder, 
asked  the  mate 
to  replace  the 
nut  and  to w 
him  to  the  near- 
est port.  The 
officer  accord- 
ingly bade  him 
good  -  bye,  shut 
down  the  nut, 
and  returned  to 
the  ship.  A  few 
minutes  later 
towing  CO m - 
m  e  n  c  e  d .  On 
the  way,  curi- 
ously enough, 
the  mainmast — 
which  hitherto 
had  been  at- 
tached to  the 
still  set  —  was 
ike     a 


\l;iris    WVMV.    K\.\l:l,KD     I o    Cu.WEKSE. 


\ 


actmg 


ship,      with      the      mainsail 
carried    away.       This      mast, 
kind    of   centre-board,    no    doubt    assisted    the 
shi])    to   remain   upright    in    her  capsized    con- 
dition. 

Tile  Aurora  towed  her  strange  prize  into 
Neufahrwasser,  the  port  of  Dantzig.  The 
astonishing  news  that  the  wreck  contained  a 
living  man,  who  had  been  immured   for  nearly 


ENTOMBEl)    L\    A    CAi'SIZLlJ    SI  111' 


527 


CAPTAIN    ENGELI.ANDT   WAS    HAULED    CAREFULLY   OUT. 


a    fortnight,   quickly   spread,   and   large   crowds 
gathered  to  witness  his  rescue. 

The  capsized  vessel  was  towed  under  a  big 
derrick,  a  cable  was  passed  around  her,  and  she 
was  raised  just  sufficiently  to  prevent  her  from 
sinking.  Then  engineers  and  shipsmiths  got 
to  work  to  cut  out  a  plate  from  her  bottom.      A 


hole  was  first  bored  through,  and  immediately 
Captain  Engellandt's  finger  was  seen  protruding. 
He  cried  out  a  warning,  fearing  that  the  vessel 
would  sink  with  the  loss  of  air,  but  was  assured 
that  there  was  no  danger  now  that  the  ship  was 
suspended  from  the  crane. 

The  artificers  worked  with  an  energy  born  of 


\ 

2 

f 

' 

Ik         n   ^ 

! 

; 

V: 

Nk 

y| 

1 

r 

THE    CAISIZKI)    "i:i(NlvrK"    UNDER     TME     DENKIlK,    SlUAVI.Nt;     THE 

CAULK    WHICH    PREVENTED    HER    SINKING. 

I'roiii  a  I'hoto. 


I'ATCII    IN    THE    |-uRL(;Ki>UNI)    IS    THE    I'LATK    WHILM    WAS 
OUT  TO   ALLOW   OF   CAPTAIN    ENCKLLANDP's    ESCAPE, 

l-'ioiit  a  Photo. 


528 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


From  a 


sympathy  for  the  man  below,  but  in  spite  of  all 
tiieir  efforts  the  task  of  cutting  out  the  plate 
occupied  nearly  five  hours.     Then,  at  9.45  p.m.. 


I 

1 

. 

m 

\ 

ii 

H        /I 

__  ^^ 

wW 

J^ 

^n3r 

»■■" 

^ 

il^S 

^^^ 

^KU-SM 

m^ 

iffii 

^M 

/MK    "KHNI.TK"    RKAUV    KOR    SEA    AGAIN    AFTER    U1-1N(,    KIJ  A I  lo- 1, 
/•rvma]  ANO  ovKkHAUl.El).  M'hoto. 

the  sheet  of  metal  was  removed,  and  Captain 
Engellandt  was  hauled  carefully  out,  after  eleven 
days  and  eighteen  hours'  imprisonment  in  the 
ship's  bottom  !  He  was  immediately  .seen  by  a 
doctor,  but,  to  everyone's  intense  astonishment:, 
was  found  to  be  little  the  worse  for  his  appalling 


r/.-oto.. 


experience,  save  that  he  was  nearly  dying 
of  thirst,  having  at  last  succumbed  to  the 
temptation  and  drunk  a  little  salt  water.  His 
hands,  too,  were  covered  with  blisters  from 
his  continual  work  with  the  hammer,  and 
he  was  pale  from  his  long  confinement.  But 
he  was  quite  rational,  and  able  to  walk  ashore 
without  assistance. 

Such  is  the  story  of  Captain  Engellandt's 
rescue  from   his   floating  tomb. 

After  such  a  fearful  experience  —  almost 
without  parallel  in  the  records  of  sea  ad- 
venture* —  a  man  might  well  be  expected 
never  to  wish  to  go  to  sea  again,  but  this 
.simple  (jerman  will  shortly  take  command  of 
a  fine  new  schooner  he  is  having  built. 
Meanwhile,  at  the  moment  of  writing,  the 
Ertidte  is  getting  ready  for  sea  again. 

*Our  issue  for  .Sfptember,  1901,  contains  the  story  of  the  adven- 
tures of  four  men  who  were  imprisoned  in  a  somewhat  similar 
manner  hy  the  capsizing  of  the  French  brig  Nerina  in  1840.  In 
this  case,  however,  their  mcarceration  only  lasted  three  days. — Ed. 


rf-th.    I  >, 


i/'h 


V^// 


AiN   K^^(,|■l  r  ANivi  s   .\uto(;rai'II,  si'KCIALI-V  wrdi  ri-v    r-di; 

"tup    WIDl^    WORM)    MACAZrNF." 


III.— AMONG    THE    NIGER    RAPIDS. 

We  have  made  arrangements  with  a  British  officer  for  an  illustrated  account  of  his  experiences  on  a 
journey  from  London  to  the  mysterious  sacred  city  of  Sokoto,  and  thence  to  Lake  Tchad.  This 
expedition,  involving  over  two  thousand  miles  of  travel  in  regions  hitherto  quite  unknown,  should 
prove  of  unique  interest,  as  the  author  was  a  member  of  the  expedition  which  penetrated  six  hundred 
miles  up  the  Niger  and  thence  marched  westward  to  Sokoto — a  city  which  had  previously  been  visited 
by  only  one  Englishman,  who  went  there  many  years  ago  in  disguise,  since  when  the  treacherous  and 
fanatical  Fulani  have  refused  the  white  man  all  access.  The  greater  portion  of  the  country  dealt 
with  is  an  absolute  terra  incognita,  being  the  hunting-ground  of  the  Tuareg,  the  Fulani,  and  the 
slave-raider.  In  this  series  the  first  detailed  account  of  the  most  important  expedition  of  recent  years 
in  British  West  Africa — Captain  Foulkes  will  deal  with  the  adventures  and  episodes  of  everyday  life 
in  the  interior,   illustrating  his  descriptions  with   his  own  photographs. 


> 


N  this  manner  the  days  dra<fged 
along,  the  canocrmen  —  sometimes 
'uttering  strange  little  cries,  but  for 
the  most  part  silent — poling  almost 
without  a  rest,  their  bodies  glistening 
with  perspiration  in  the  fierce  heat  of  the  sun. 
Past  reeds  and  long  grass  we  glided,  under 
archways  of  overhanging  trees,  sli[)ping  by  shin- 
ing sand  beaches,  with  fresh  crocodile  slideo 
visible  on  them,  still  wet ;  by  granite  boulders 
worn  smooth,  and  showing  horizontal  marks  of 
different  water-levels  ;  and  bushes  with  bare, 
spreading  roots  covered  with  long,  hair-like  off- 
shoots. At  times  we  moved  fairly  rapidly  in  a 
two-mile  current,  but  sometimes  we  had  to  win 
our  way  foot  by  foot,  from  twig  to  twig,  in  a 
six-miJe  rapid. 

Occasionally  a  canoe,  piled  with  calabashes 
and  covered  with  grass  mats,  would  glide  past 

Vol.  xi.-67. 


in  mid-stream,  its  occupants  sitting  quite  still 
or  paddling  listlessly. 

After  a  long  and  trying  day  we  were  glad  at 
evening  to  pitch  our  tents  on  the  bank  near 
some  village,  or  on  a  sand  -  bank  out  in  mid- 
stream. 

The  very  heavy  dew  which  falls  at  night  in  the 
valley  of  the  river  and  the  amazing  variety  of 
insects,  of  which  mosquitoes  and  sand-tlies  are 
the  most  numerous  and  troublesome,  would  have 
rendered  sleep  impossible  without  mosquito 
curtains,  which  we  were  fortunately  provided 
with. 

In  the  neighbourhood  of  villages  I  was 
much  interested  in  the  curious  traps  used  for 
catching  fish,  which  are  very  plentiful  hereabouts. 
These  native  contrivances  are  baited  with  guinea- 
corn,  and  are  made  of  a  kind  of  open-work  grass 
matting,  which  is  fixed  upright  in  a  circle  near 


530 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


From  a\ 


'  QCCASIO.SALLV    A    CANOE   WOULD   GLIDE    PAST. 


iJ^koto. 


the  bank,  and  stiffened  all  round  with  stakes. 
A  kind  of  portcullis  of  the  same  material, 
weij^hted  with  stones,  is  raised  vertically,  and 
remains  open  until  an  opportunity  occurs  of 
making  a  catch,  when,  by  pulling  a  string,  it  is 
made  to  fall  down  and  close  the  entrance. 

At  .some  of  our  camps  the  snorting  of  hip[)o 
was  distinctly  heard  close  by  during  the  night, 
for  we  passed  several  kinds  of  these  animals  in 
the  water  in  the  course  of  the  journey  up  the 
river.  Invariably,  too,  where  hippo  were  seen, 
their  tracks  up  the  banks  in  the  neighbourhood 
Were  numerous. 

In  many  of  the  little  riverside  villages 
curiously  designed  hi[)po  spears  may  be  seen, 
consisting  of  a  double-barbed  iron  head,  to 
wliich  a  handle  six  or  eight  feet  long  is  loosely 
fastened  ;  at  its  lower  end  the  handle  is  fixed 
to  a  detachable  float  made  of  some  very  light 
wo(k1.  These  floats  are  again  attached 
to  the  spcar-head  by  means  of  a  stout 
roj)e,  so  that  when  a  s[jear  is  driven 
into  a  hip[)o  the  head  remains  in  the 
flesh,  and  the  n)ovemcnts  of  the 
wounded  animal  under  water  can  be 
followc-d  by  the  hunters.  'I'he  wound 
caused  by  the  .spear  is  not  in  it.self  of 
a  sertous  nature,  l)Ut  poison  is  gene 
rally  applied,  which,  of  course,  makes 
the  siK-ar  a  much  more  formidabh 
weapon,  while  the  carcass  is  not  reii 
dcred  uneatable  thereby.  'I'hough  the 
nieat  would  have  been  very  welcome  to 
our  large  party,  we  could  not  spare  the 
time  to  go  after  one  of  these  beasts,  as 
when  reached  they  sink,  and  only 
appear    on    the    surface    some    hours 


afterwards.  1  lie  current,  too, 
would  make  the  recovery  of  the 
carcass  very  improbable,  unless 
there  were  rocks  across  the 
river  just  below.  For  the  same 
reason  crocodile  are  very  rarely 
found  when  killed,  though  we 
did  not  scruple  to  fire  at  these 
dangerous  monsters  whenever 
l^ossible,  and  succeeded  in  hit- 
ting some.  One  of  these  brutes 
was  facing  us  asleep,  basking 
on  some  rocks  with  its  mouth 
wide  open,  when  one  of  our 
party  fired.  It  was  hit  badly 
at  a  range  of  about  a  hundred 
yards,  and  remained  in  pre- 
cisely the  same  position  for 
some  time  afterwards,  quite 
stunned.  It  only  just  suc- 
ceeded in  rolling  off  into  the 
water    as    our    canoes     raced 

There 


canoes 
towards  the  spot  and  almost  reached  it. 
is    excellent     bird  -  shooting    on    the    Middle 


Niger,  guinea  -  fowl  and  •"  ousn  -  lowi  "  —  a 
kind  of  partridge  —  being  very  plentiful  on 
shore.  Geese  are  sometimes  seen,  but  they  are 
very   wild   and   difficult  to   approach.       Duck, 


teal,  pigeon,   doves. 


and  sand-grouse  are 


fairly 


abundant.  Several  kinds  of  pelicans  and  cranes 
are  also  met  with,  for  the  most  part  sitting 
meditatively  on  sand  -  banks  singly  or  in 
groups.  "  Crown  birds  "  are  to  be  found,  too, 
sometimes  in  flocks  of  as  many  as  twenty  ; 
these,  with  marabout  (which  are  generally  seen 
in  threes,  sitting  on  trees  close  to  the  river),  are 
kept  tame  in  some  of  the  villages  by  the  chiefs. 
After  two  days'  poling  from  Jebba  we  reached 
IJajibo,  where  the  second  French  "enclave" 
has  been  established,  and  where  there  is  a  small 
military  garrison.       (>ood   shooting   can  be  got 


CROWN    BIRD 


SHOT    HY    A    MEMBER   Ol 

From  a  Photo. 


TllL   CU.M.MliiiO.N. 


wri'ii   'iMir:    r.Rrrisii   'I'o   sokoto. 


53» 


all  round  this  place,  a  lion 
lia\  ing  entered  an  officer's 
hut  on  one  occasion  re- 
cently. Just  above  here 
our  flotilla  passed  a  herd 
of  hippo. 

In  the  neighbourhood 
of  the  village  of  Leaba, 
nearly  five  hundred  miles 
up  tile  Niger,  the  river 
narrows  considerably,  and 
is  less  than  one  hundred 
yards  across  in  places. 
The  current,  too,  is  very 
swift  and  rocks  are  plen- 
tiful, making  very  bad 
corners  for  canoes  to  get 
past.  The  day  after  leav- 
ing Leaba  we  arrived  at 
Ekaji,  a  little  village  oppo 
site  A\'  u  r  u ,  where  t  h  c 
rapids  begin.  Here  all 
our  canoes  were  unloaded 
and  sent  on  to  negotiate 

the  rapids  empty.  They  were  to  meet  us  higher 
up.  At  Ekaji  some  two  hundred  carriers  were 
waiting  for  us  by  arrangement;  but  this  number 
proved  to  be  msufficient,  and  we  had  to  make 
half  marches  with  the  loads  and  double  journeys, 
thus  taking  four  days  over  a  distance  that  should 
have  been  traversed  in  two.  The  road  over  which 
we  marched  was  forty  miles  in  length  and  was 
quite  flat,  with  long  grass  and  a  few  scattered 
trees.  Eight  miles  after  starting  we  came  upon 
the  Oli  River,  a  hundred  yards  wide,  which  we 
had  to  cross  in  two  small  and  very  rickety 
canoes. 

Between   W'uru  and    Houssa   rapids  occur  at 


hroiu  a\ 


ID> — IHH    KXI  l.oKl-.H,    MUM.o    I'AKK,    ]s    liELIEVEl) 
NEAK    HEKE. 


y/ioio. 


J-roiii  <ij 


A    NAIUE    UICMIAKV   UN    Hl>    WAV    DOWN     IIIK    MVKH 


four  separate  points.  The  lowest  rapids — 
which  are  said  to  be  the  worst — of  which  I  took 
some  photographs,  are  about  half  a  mile  above 
Ekaji,  at  a  point  where  the  Niger  is  divided 
into  two  by  an  island,  on  either  side  of  which 
it  is  broken  by  these  torrents. 

Those  on  the  right  bank,  though  by  far  the 
narrower,  being  only  about  ten  yards  wide,  are 
the  ones  used  by  canoes  for  ascending  and 
d(?scending.  The  current  is,  of  course,  ex- 
tremely rapid,  and  a  stout  native  rope  is  laid 
along  the  river,  with  side  ropes  for  keeping  it 
in  a  central  position  in  the  stream. 

It    did  not  seem  to  be  in  use,   however,  as 

two  canoes  which  I 
saw  descending  sim- 
ply "shot"  the  rapids, 
liaving  been  previ- 
ously u  n 1 oaded  ; 
whilst  our  own,  which 
we  watched  making 
the  ascent,  kei)t  close 
to  the  bank,  out  of  the 
main  current,  and 
were  towed,  pushed, 
and  poled  up— all  at 
once-  without  much 
difficulty.  The  heat 
on  the  rocks  at  this 
spot  at  midday  was 
terrific,  and  in  con- 
sequence one  of  the 
spirit-levels  with  which 
my  camera  was  fitted 
burst. 


532 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


THK  (IKKlCbKS  OK   THK   COMMISSION    WAICHING   THEIR    CANOES    BKING    HAULED    UP 
from  a\  THE    RAPIDS. 


The  second  rapid  occurs  about  a  mile  above 
the  first,  though  I  did  not  get  an  opportunity  of 
seeing  it  or  any  of  the  others,  as  our  road  did 
not  run  along  the  river  bank.  The  third  rapid 
is  opposite  Kotashi — variously  named— and  the 
fourth  a  little  above  (iarifari,  al)Out  ten  miles 
below  Houssa. 

It  is  not  known  at  which  of  these  spots — 
if  any  of  them  —  the  explorer,  Mungo  Park, 
was  killed,  as  all  are  generally  spoken  of  as 
the  Houssa  rapids,  and  no  attempt  is  made  to 
distinguish  between  them. 

Above  Boussa  -a  long,  straggling  town  —  the 
river  widens  again  considerably,  and  large 
islands  once  more  become  frequent.  On  these 
villages  are  plentiful,  and  consist  of  neat,  well- 
made  little  mud  huts,  with  a  liberal  allowance 
of  dome  -  shaped  granaries  in  which  guinea- 
corn  (the  staple  product  of  the  country)  is 
stored. 

i'.oth  huts  and  granaries  are  mostly  circular, 
and  are  remarkable  for  being  constructed  on  rows 
of  flat  ston<s,  twelve  or  eighteen  inches  in  heifMit, 
bedded  into  the  ground  on  their  edges.  The 
doorjvays  are  very  small  ripenings,  which  begin 
about  two  feet  above  the  level  of  the  ground 
outside.  The  object  of  this  style  of  architecture 
is  no  doubt  to  escape  the  night  damp  which 
rises  from  the  river. 

It  was  on  one  of  these  islands  that  we  saw 
signs  of  irrigation  for  the  first  time  since  enter- 
ing the  Niger.  The  method  adopted  is  very 
primitive     and     involves     much    labour,     but 


the  areas  over  which 
water  is  distributed 
are  small. 

In  most  places 
the  banks  of  the 
river  are  too  high  to 
admit  of  water  being 
lifted  over,  in  cala- 
bashes, by  hand,  and 
a  small  hollow  is 
accordingly  scooped 
out  at  the  river  level, 
to  facilitate  the 
filling  of  the  cala- 
bashes. 

From  this  water  is 
lifted  a  height  of 
about  three  feet,  and 
emptied  into  a 
saucer  -  shaped  exca- 
vation running  a  few 
yards  inland,  from 
the  extreme  end  of 
which  it  is  again 
raised — also  by  hand 
— and  emptied  into 
a  channel,  by  means  of  which  it  is  distributed, 
by  overflowing  at  intervals,  over  an  area  divided 
up  into  little  four  -  foot  squares  planted  with 
onions. 

The  channels  are  laboriously  fashioned  with 
clay,  and  rarely  exceed  fifty  yards  in  length. 

'i'hese  island  dwellers  seem  to  be  distinctly  in 
advance  qf  the  inhabitants  of  the  river-bank 
villages  in  the  matter  of  enterprise,  and  a  good 
deal  of  their  land  is  cultivated  with  guinea-corn, 


\Photo. 


A    CUKKiUS   GRANARY    IN    A    NATIVE    VILLAGE. 

From  a  Photo, 


Wnil     IHK    liRlllSll     [()    suRuro. 


M.>  > 


THE   CAMlKs 


IIIK    KXIliDllloN    AT    YK.l.WA,    SIX    HLMJkt.lJ 

From  a  Photo. 


onions,  and  a  kind  of  bean  ;  but  living  is 
much  too  easy  for  an  astonishing  display  of 
industry. 

Yelwa  —  which  is  another  military 
station  —  is  four  days'  journey  above 
Boussa.  The  river  at  the  former  place 
is  extremely  wide,  and  consists  of  a  maze 
of  islands  separated  by  narrow  channels. 
About  fifteen  miles  below  Yelwa  there 
is  a  point  in  the  river,  opposite  a  village 
called  Chelu,  over  which  none  but  the 
lightest-loaded  of  canoes  can  pass. 

The  river  is  divided  in  two  by  an 
island,  on  the  west  side  of  which  (the 
riglit  bank)  a  rocky  bar  stretches  right 
across,  rendering  the  channel  im- 
passable even  to  canoes.  On  the 
east  side  of  the  island,  too,  there  are 
rocks,  with  a  sharp  fall  in  the  level  of 
the  water,  but  we  managed  to  get  our 
canoes  through,  with  the  assistance  of 
the  villagers,  without  having  to  unload. 

The  native  chiefs  are  often  a 
nuisance,  as  on  arriving  at  their  towns 
the  custom  is  to  bring  with  them 
an  offering  of  some  sort,  which 
is  termed  a  "  dash,"  or  present  ;  it  is 
not  one  in  reality,  however,  as  the  full 
market  equivalent  is  always  expected 
and  paid.  These  presents  usually  con- 
sist of  eggs,  milk,  fowls,  or  vegetables, 
which  are  acceptable.  The  King  of 
Boussa,  however,  on  paying  his  cere- 
monial visit,   had  a  small   bullock  led 


behind  him,  and  con- 
sidering that   this 
animal  was  in  a  very 
emaciated    condition, 
and  that   we    were 
moving    on    immedi- 
ately   in    canoes,   the 
offering  was  an  embar- 
rassing one,  especially 
as  beef  is  almost  un- 
eatable in  this  country 
and  rivals  in  toughness 
the  ration  trek  o\  of 
the  South    African 
Campaign.    However, 
the  bullock  had  to  be 
paid  for  and  was  dis- 
posed of  somehow. 

At  Yelwa  the  sol- 
diers forming  the  gar- 
rison are  quartered  in 
a  small  fort,  which  was 
built  in  1898,  but 
which  at  tiie  present 
time  is  by  no  means 
a  formidable  defensive  work.  Inside  a  monu- 
ment   has    been    erected    to    the    memory    of 


\ni.h:-.  L  r    1  iiK  Mi.i.i. 


UK    ■.;.  iNL mk:.  1    Ai    VtLAA. 


534 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


Lieutenant  Keating  and  a  white  N.C.O.  of  the 
West  Africa  Frontier  Force,  who,  with  several 
soldiers,  were  killed  on  an  island  close  by  whilst 
engaged  in  collecting  canoes  for  transport.  This 
might  appear  a  somewhat  unusual  spot  to  choose 
for  a  graveyard,  but  at  Boussa  a  white  N.C.O.  has 
been  buried  in  the  very  centre  of  the  native 
market-place ! 

Yelwa,  which  is  a  comparatively  new  village, 
was  formerly  a  large  native  town  called  Ren 
Vauri  (the  ruins  of  which  are  still  visible),  some 
six  miles  away  from  the  river.  In  1890  it  was 
devastated  by  the  King  of  Kontagora  and  has 
never  been  rebuilt,  though  the  fugitives  received 
permission  later  to  build  themselves  a  new 
village  where  Yelwa  now  stands. 

or    five    miles  above    Yelwa    there 


•our 


IS 


intervals.  Mosquitoes  swarm  in  this  neigh- 
bourhood, and  in  consequence  some  peculiar 
costumes  were  to  be  seen  at  our  dinner-table 
in  the  evenings.  In  addition  to  the  ordinary 
camp  evening  dress— pyjamas — mosquito  boots, 
dressing  gowns,  silk  handkerchiefs,  and  blankets 
were  wrapped  round  the  knees,  and  over  the 
head  were  some  of  the  aids  employed  towards 
immunity  from  attack. 

On  Christmas  Day  we  reached  Ilo,  which  is 
also  a  small  military  centre,  two  or  three  miles 
from  the  river.  Quiris  is  its  port,  and  the 
approach  to  this  place  is  over  an  extensive  grass 
swamp,  swarming  with  duck  and  other  birds, 
through  which  a  narrow  channel,  overgrown 
with  water-lilies  and  some  hundreds  of  yards 
long,    but    only    five    or    six    feet    wide,    winds. 


f'loii:  d\ 


THE    FlhST   CAMl'   AFTER    LEAVING    THK    RIVFR. 


{I  ho'o. 


another  difficult  place  in  the  river,  at  a  village 
called  Sikassi  ;  but  from  here  to  Dole,  past  ifo, 
where  Hritish  territory  terminates,  the  river  is 
wide  and  sluggish,  and  would  probably  be 
navigable  for  steam  launches  at  all  seasons. 

'I'rees  — which  had  been  gradually  disappearing 
from  the  landscape— are  almost  entirely  absent 
half-way  between  Yelwa  and  Ilo,  and  the 
country  on  cither  side  of  the  river  consists  of 
immense  Hat  grass  plains,  often  marshy,  with 
stunted   trees   and    bushes   scattered   about   at 


Here  we  were  met  by  local  European  officials  ; 
six  of  us  dined  that  night  out  in  the  open,  and 
in  spite  of  the  mosquitoes  full  justice  was  done 
to  a  blazing  plum-pudding. 

The  Anglo-P>ench  frontier  at  Dole  was 
reached  the  next  day,  almost  three  months  after 
leaving  England  ! 

This  place  is  also  approached  by  means  of 
a  creek  which  runs  into  the  Niger,  and  here 
we  pitched  our  first  camp,  thankful  to  have 
completed  at  last  our  long  journey  up  the  river. 


(To  be  co?ilinued.) 


The   Apotheosis    of  Simpson. 


Bv  L.   Lawrence. 

The   author   writes :    "  The    incidents   here   described    occurred    at    a    little    township   in    Manitoba, 
where  I    resided    at    the    time.      As    all    the    persons    mentioned    are  still  living,  I  have  given  them 

fictitious  names." 


T  was  through  some  miscalculation 
of  time  and  place  on  the  part  of 
destiny  that  Simpson  came  to  be  a 
wheat-grower  in  Manitoba  in  the  last 
decade  of  tlie  nineteenth  century. 
He  should  have  been  born  on  the  shores  of  one 
of  the  Norwegian  fjords  some  time  in  the  sixth  ; 
tnen  he  might  have  found  a  fitting  outlet  for  the 
power  that  is  in  him,  and  have  figured  in  song 
and  saga.  For  Simpson  is  of  one  blood  with 
the  sea-kings  ;  he  has  their  sea-blue  eyes,  yellow 
hair,  and  a  fist  to  wield  Thor's  hammer,  and  like 
them  he  is  subject  to  fits  of  Berserker  fury  in 
which  no  mortal  can  stand  before  him. 

I'he  error  is  unfortunate  for  Simpson.  In  the 
heroic  age  he  would  have  been  a  hero  ;  he  would 
have  sailed  the  North  Sea  with  his  fleet  of 
galleys  doing  glorious  deeds,  landing  now  and 
then  to  sack  and  burn  some  town  of  the 
cowering  landsmen.  As  for  the  sacking  and 
burning,  if  Simpson  had  happened  to  be  in  the 
Berserk  vein  when  his  galleys  arrived  in  the 
harbour,  the  remainder  of  the  crews  might  have 
rested  on  their  oars,  for  I  have  seen  what  he  can 
do  with  bare  fists,  and  the  mind  reels  at  the  idea 
of  the  ruin  he  would  work  with  a  double-headed 
battle-axe.  I  imagine  the  Valkyries  would  have 
had  some  trouble  in  removing  him  from  the 
scene  of  his  exploits,  having  seen  a  special 
police  force  of  local  volunteers  perform  that 
office  ;  but  once  in  Odin's  hall  he  would  have 
held  his  own  at  swallowing  huge  draughts  of 
foaming  mead  with  any  champion  there. 

These  things,  however,  were  denied  him.  He 
has  a  wife  and  family  and  half  a  section  of  land 
a  few  miles  from  the  Canadian  Pacific  main 
line.  His  huge  red  beard  and  sea-blue  eyes 
are  the  sole  links  between  Simpson  and  his 
Viking  ancestry,  saving  the  fits  of  Berserk  fury 
before  referred  to. 


When  one  of  these  comes  upon  him  he  dri\es 

into  H ,  the  village  where  he  sells  his  wheat 

and  buys  his  groceries.  H will  be  herein- 
after called  a  town  ;  in  Manitoba  a  place  is  not 
entitled  to   style  itself  a  village  until   it    has   a 

thousand  inliabitants,  and,  as  H •  has  only 

a  quarter  of  that  number,  it  must  perforce  call 
itself  a  town  for  some  years  to  come.  As  a  rule 
he  does  not  drink  much  on  these  occasions  ; 
the  heroic  mood  is  not  to  be  appeased  by 
liquor  ;  moreover,  there  is  not  time.  The 
second  glass  is  rarely  finished  before  tiie 
spark  falls  that  lights  the  powder-mine.  Then 
he  literally  rips  through  the  town  like  a  small 
cyclone,  his  flaming  beard,  a  baleful  meteor, 
streaming   before  him,  destruction  and  wailing 

behind  him.     In   H fences  and  sheds  are 

lightly  built  of  wood,  and  the  havoc  he  makes 
amongst  these  is  incredible,  his  way  being  to 
make  for  any  man  his  eye  lights  on,  through — 
not  over — any  obstacle  that  may  be  between 
them. 

The  townspeople  combine  against  him  as 
they  do  against  a  prairie  fire,  which  accounts 
for  the  fact  that  he  has  never  more  than  halt 
killed  any  of  them.  Tliey  do  not  shoot  him, 
partly  because  we  are  a  law-abiding  people  in 
Manitoba,  and  partly  because  he  is  a  good 
customer  of  the  local  stores,  but  principally 
because  the  few  men  in  the  place  who  are 
capable  of  such  heroic  measures  belong  either 
to  the  Canadian  Order  of  Foresters  or  the 
Knights  of  Pythias.  Simpson  belongs  to  both, 
and  neither  of  these  estimable  bodies  could  be 
expected  to  countenance  manslaughter  of  one 
of  the  brethren  even  in  self-defence.  Once 
they  endeavoured  to  make  him  answerable  at 
law  for  what  he  had  done.  I  was  privileged  to 
be  present  on  that  occasion. 

I  had  ridden  into  the  town  one  October  after- 


53^ 


TME    WIDK    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


noon  on  business,  which  concluded,  I  made  for 
the  hotel.  As  I  mounted  the  steps  of  the 
porch  I  was  aware  of  a  confused  noise  of 
battle  issuing  from  the  bar,  and  stepped  down 
again  to  reconnoitre  by  means  of  the  window 
looking  on  the  street.     The  bar  was  filled  with 


A    IIMOKEN   CilAlK   SWUNG    ROUND    IN    lIlS    KXIKNDKI)    KIC.III     11AM). 


an  aniorphf)us  tangle  of  men  swaying  from  end 
to  end  of  tlu;  room  round  something  vast  and 
furry,  which  an  unpractised  eye  might  have  taken 
for  a  grizzly  bear,  but  which  1  knew  to  be  merely 
a  farmer  in  a  fur  coat.  To  and  fro  the  doubtful 
battle  raged  to  a  thunderous  accompaniment  of 
deep  throated  imprecations,  mixed  with  crash- 
ing of  glass  and  rending  of  chairs  limb  from 
limb. 

•Suddenly,  with  a  supreme  effort,  the  man  in 
the  fur  coat  flung  off  the  herd  of  his  enemies  in 


a  heap.  A  broken  chair  swung  round  in  his 
extended  right  hand  and  caught  the  crowd  full 
on  the  flank,  .sending  two  of  them  to  the  floor, 
while  the  rest  endeavoured  to  jump  through  the 
walls.  Then,  with  a  roar,  the  fur-coated  figure 
sprang  for  the  doorway,  where  stood  McCulloch, 
the  hotel  -  keeper,  watching 
the  fray  with  his  hands  in 
his  pockets.  He  had  no 
time  to  take  them  out.  There 
was  another  roar,  a  sharp 
crack — McCulloch's  head  on 
the  door-jamb  — and  the  furry 
paladin  was  in  the  street. 

It  was  Simpson  —  torn, 
bleeding,  and  terrible,  his 
beard  streaming  in  the  wind. 
He  strode  off  down  the  street, 
taking  no  notice  of  me,  for 
which  I  was  devoutly  thank- 
ful, and  presently  disappeared 
round  a  corner. 

McCulloch  issued  slowly 
from  the  hotel,  feeling  first 
the  ghastly  ruin  that  had 
been  his  nose,  then  the  back 
of  his  head. 

"Knocked  a  two -pound 
chunk  of  scalp  off  agin  the 
door,"  he  explained;  "  wiiy 
didn't  you  stop  him  ?  " 

I  smiled  ;  in  mere  bulk  I 
am  inconsiderable,  and  Simp- 
son is  a  neighbour  of  mine. 

"Where  has  he  gone?"  I 
asked. 

"  To  put  his  coat  in  the 
waggon.  He's  comin'  back 
again  to  finish  the  racket. 
Never  seen  him  so  mad  be- 
fore. Jim  Douglas  jest  hap- 
pened to  say  they  raise  a 
rattling  good  breed  of  mc-n 
in  Bruce  County,  Ontario, 
where  he  comes  from,  when 
Simpson  hauls  off  an'  slaps 
him  off  his  seat.  'I'm  from 
the  head  waters  of  1  Jitter 
Creek,'  he  said,  kind  of  singin' ;  '  the  farther 
you  go  up,  the  worse  it  gets.  There  ain't  no 
men  in  Bruce  County,'  says  he  ;  '  the  last  was 
wiped  out  by  a  boy  from  my  county.  Bruce  is 
dead,  Jim  Douglas,'  he  says,  'an'  so'll  you  be  if 
you  don't  watch  yourself.'  Well,  Jim  gets 
up,  an'  Simpson  [)iles  on  to  him  again,  an' 
the  boys  had  to  chip  in  to  keep  Jim  from 
gittin'  totally  smashed.  Then  the  picnic 
started.  There's  ten  dollars'  worth  of  glass 
gone    already     an'    he    says    he's    comin'    back. 


THE    APOTHEOSIS    OF    SIMPSON. 


537 


to  blow  the  place  to  pieces  before  he  (juits 
to-night  !  ■' 

"Anybody  hurt?"  I  inciuired. 

"  Hurt  : "  echoed  McCulloch,  indignantly, 
feeling  the  shipwreck  of  his  countenance. 
"  See  here,  young  fellow  ;  if  Simpson  was  to  hit 
you,  you'd  think  you  were  dead — an'  you  would 
be,  too.  There's  eight  of  the  boys  inside  all 
more  or  less  cut  up.  There's  Jim  Douglas 
looks  as  if  he'd  fell  off"  the  roof,  an'  them 
two  he  hit  with  the  chair  '11  have  to  be  carried 
home  sure." 

IMcCulloch  felt   bad  about  it   and  no  wonder. 


THE   COMHATANIS    FILED   OUT   ONE    l;V   ONE." 

The  bar,  which  was  the  apple  of  his  eye,  looked 
as  if  a  six  inch  shell  had  exploded  in  it.  The 
combatants  filed  out  one  by  one  from  the  porch, 
big  fellows  all.  In  that  country,  where  prime 
beef  is  retailed  at  six  cents  a  pound,  men  run 
to  length  of  limb.  Anyone  but  Simpson  who 
started  out  from  the  hotel  looking  for  trouble 
would  probably  find  all  he  wanted  before  he  got 

Vol.  xi.— 68. 


as  far  as  the  post-office,  but,  as  they  will  tell  you 
in  H — — ,  he  is  irresistible  when  the  heaven- 
storming  mood  comes  upon  him— the  same 
thing  is  recorded  of  the  Berserkers  of  old. 

"  We  made  the  ruffian  skip,  anyhow,"  said 
one  young  man  whose  upper  lip  was  split. 

"  Say,  Joe,"  returned  another  whose  face  had 
been  trodden  on  in  the  scrimmage,  wearily,  "I 
b'lieve  you  think  you  made  him  skip." 

"  Well,"  said  Joe,  "  I  ke[)t  my  end  of  the 
racket  up." 

"  You  did  till  it  dropped,"  replied  his  friend, 
still  more  wearil)-.      "  Were  you  trying  to  pick  it 

up  when   1   saw  you   be- 
hind the  bar  ?  " 

"  Never  mind,  Joe," 
put  in  McC'ulloch, 
"  you'll  be  a  good  man 
when  you've  done  grow- 
in'.  We  all  did  our  best ; 
an'  what's  worry  in'  me  is 
that  this  ferocious  animal 
is  com  in'  back  !  Boys, 
we  must  certainly  corral 
him  an'  yank  him  down 
to  the  Rustler  office,  an' 
I'll  shove  him  (Anglice, 
prosecute)  for  makin'  a 
cyclonic  storm-centre  of 
my  bar." 

The  proposal  met  with 
general  approval.  The 
Rustler  \s  \he^  local  news- 
paper— in  the  vernacular 
of  the  province  "  rustler  " 
signifies  one  who  toils 
strenuously  —  and  its 
owner  and  editor,  Jabez 
Sherman,  is,  or  was,  a 
magistrate  under  the 
Crown.  The  Govern- 
ment pays  Jabez  five  dollars  for  every  case 
brought  before  him,  and,  as  he  used  to  say 
himself,  "  Peddlin'  law  at  five  dollars  a  trip 
is  something  of  a  snap  in  a  blamed  town  like 
this,  where  a  man  has  to  run  a  paper  an' 
the  store-keepers  ain't  got  horse-sense  enough 
to  advertise."  For  the  rest  he  administered 
justice  pretty  evenly,  without  knowing  any- 
thing of  law,  but  suffered  rather  badly  from 
"  swelled  head,"  the  result  of  a  too  insistent 
sense  of  the  dignity  of  his  combined  judicial  and 
journalistic  functions. 

I  will  pass  over  the  "  corralling  "  of  Simpson; 
how  the  battle  waxed  and  waned,  what  heroes 
fell,  what  blood  stained  the  slippery  sidewalk. 
In  the  end  Simpson  fell,  and  the  rest  fell  on  him, 
and  lav  on  him  in  stacks  until  the  handcuffs 
were  adjusted  by  the  local  constable,   a   quiet- 


538 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


loving  man  who  kept  a  boarding-house  un- 
officially, where  he  lodged  his  prisoners  at  the 
public  cost. 

Simpson  allowed  himself  to  be  taken  to  the 
Rustler  office  strangely  quiescent.  I  fancy  he 
didn't  understand  what  was  meant  and  felt 
curious  about  it.  The  boys  followed  in  pro- 
cession, chanting  "  But  he  gets  there  just  the 
same,"  in  honour  of  the  victory. 

At  the  Rustler  office  the   magistrate  was  in 
readiness,    with    his   assistant — who    combined 
the  duties  of  reporter,  leader-writer,  and  com- 
positor all  in  one —to  act  as 
clerk.     Jabez  Sherman,  J. P., 
was    middle  -  aged    and     of 
ample    girth ;     his    reporter, 
on  the  contrary,   was  youth- 
ful and  dapper,  but  nervous, 
as  will  appear. 

Simpson  was  escorted  in- 
side by  the  constable,  McCul- 
loch  and  Jim  Douglas 
following  to  prosecute.  The 
rest  of  us  stayed  outside  and 
waited. 

But  not  for  long.  McCul- 
loch,  giving  evidence,  had 
just  begun—"  Well,  you  see, 
Jabez,  the  prisoner  is  pretty 

well  known "  when  light 

broke  in  on  the  clouded  soul 
of  Simpson,  and  stung  to  in- 
articulate fury  at  the  outrage 
put  upon  him  he  made  for 
the  man  next  him,  whc  hap- 
pened to  be  the  reporter, 
with  the  rush  and  roar  of  a 
wounded  bull.  The  reporter 
dared  as  soon  face  an  ava- 
lanche. He  fled,  as  Paris 
fled  before  Menelaus.  Dart- 
ing out  of  the  office  and 
banging  the  door  behind 
him,  he  hung  on  to  the 
handle  in  an  agony  of  fear 
as  he  felt  it  being  turned 
from  the  inside.  Meanwhile, 
within,  strange  things  and  dire  were  happening. 
'I'hc  magistrate,  indignant,  wildly  indignant,  at 
such  a  scene  in  his  court,  hurled  himself 
between  Simpson  and   the  flying  reporter. 

For  one  instant  only— for  one  breathless 
moment  -he  looked  full  in  the  flaming  orbs  of 
Sinifjson,  then  turned  and  leapt  to  the  door  like 
a  stricken  deer.  It  was  his  hand  upon  the  door 
that  the  re[)orter  felt,  and  fear  lent  the  youth 
such  strength  that  no  effort  of  the  magistrate's 
could  open  it. 

Simpson  paused  undecided.     Then  he  kicked 


Jabez  tentatively,  but  severely,  and  Jabez  rose 
a-tiptoe,  like  a  sportive  bird,  and  smote  the 
panel  with  his  brow.  Simpson  seemed  pleased 
with  the  result  and  kicked  him  again,  where- 
upon Jabez  encored  his  previous  performance. 
Then  Simpson  laughed,  as  a  Viking  of  old 
might  have  laughed,  to  see  an  adversary  fall 
cloven  to  the  chine.  He  planted  himself 
steadily  and  kicked  the  magistrate  slowly  and 
carefully  until  he  was  tired.  Once  he  fell  out  of 
his  stride,  missed  his  aim,  and  splintered  a 
panel  of  the  door,  but  recovered  himself  iinme- 


HE    KICKED   THE    MAGISTRATE   SLOWLY   AND   CAREFULLY. 


diately  and  continued  with  deadly  precision. 
The  magistrate  yelled  his  way  through  every 
key  of  the  diapason.  He  threatened  Simpson 
with  the  whole  might  of  the  British  Empire, 
including  the  Queen,  the  Governor-General,  and 
the  Dominion  and  Provincial  Cabinets.  In  a 
high-pitched  staccato,  punctuated  at  regular 
intervals  by  .Simpson's  enormous  boots,  he  held 
forth  prospects  of  an  attainder  for  high  treason 
and  long  years  of  penal  servitude.  But  Simpson 
kicked  away  with  the  regularity  of  a  steam- 
hammer,  and  the  reporter  outside,  feeling  the 


THE    APOTHEOSIS    OF    SIMPSON. 


539 


convulsive  grip  still  on  the  door-handle,  hung  on 
with  vibrant  knees.  The  constable  held  himself 
aloof ;  he  was  plucky  enougli  as  a  rule,  but  he 
had  a  wife  and  child  at  home  and  felt  his  first 
duty  was  to  them.  McCulloch  had  had  as 
much  fighting  as  he  wanted  that  day ;  Jim 
Douglas  had  had  rather  more.  We  outside 
who  could  both  hear  and  see — for  the  whole 
interior  of  the  office  was  visible  from  the  street — 
heard  and  saw  without  stirring.  We  didn't 
even  explain  the  situation  to  the  terrified 
reporter.  A  great  fear  had  come  upon  us  ;  we 
felt  we  were  in  the  presence  of  something 
mightier  than  ourselves.  Simpson  with  his 
wrists  bound  with  iron  seemed  just  then  more 
fearful  than  when  his  hands  were  free.  But 
there  was  something  worse  than  that  :  our 
belief  in  the  omnipotence  of  the  law,  a  con- 
viction cherished  since  childhood,  had  been 
destroyed  in  a  moment,  and  the  suddenness  of 
the  revelation  left  us  paralyzed.  Also  the 
October  wind  blew  chill  upon  our  bruises  and 
green  wounds,  and  our  hearts  were  as  lead 
within  us,  and  we  had  no  stomach  for  further 
fight.  _       • 

At  last  the  magistrate,  maddened  with  pain 
and  despairing  of  exit  through  the  door,  dashed 
off  round  the  room,  with  Simpson  in  full  pursuit, 
the  manacles  clinking  dreadfully  on  his  out- 
stretched wrists,  his  fingers  starving  for  the. 
magisterial  throat.  The  chase  could  not  last 
long ;  Jabez  felt  his  wind  going  and  his  dignity 
with  it — even  a  magistrate  is  subject  to  the  first 
law  of  Nature— and  he  had  made  a  brave  fight 
for  it.  None  guessed  till  then  what  reserves  of 
youthful  agility  lay  perdu  in  his  ample  person. 
P)Ut  as  for  the  fifth  time  he  skipped  round  his 
printing  press  with  Simpson's  fingers  clawing 
the  air  an  inch  from  his  collar,  and  no  sign  of 
rescue  from  heaven  or  earth,  he  felt  he  could  do 
no  more,  and,  gasping  an  order  to  the  constable 
to  take  the  handcuffs  off  Simpson  and  let  him 
go,  he  subsided  in  a  heap  on  the  floor.  Simpson 
stopped  at  once,  and  the  constable,  a[)proach- 
ing  with  infinite  caution,  proceeded  to  remove 
the  handcuffs,  while  the  magistrate  formally 
dismissed  the  prisoner,  according  to  law,  with- 
out a  stain  on  his  character. 

Simpson  seemed  to  feel  the  humour  of  the 
situation,  for  he  refrained  from  killing  the 
constable  when  his  hands  were  free.  Or 
perhaps  some  large  tranquillizing  sense  of 
having  done  a  notable  thing  invaded  his  storm- 
tossed  soul.  Other  men  have  painted  towns 
red,  but  he  had  never  heard  of  one  who  had 
played  football  with  a  representative  of  British 
justice  and  been  none  the  worse  for  it.  A 
sudden  thought  occurred  to  him  just  as  he  was 
leaving  the  court. 


"See  here,"  he  said,  threateningly,  to  Jabez. 
"  Mind  you  don't  get  printin'  any  Hp  about  me 
in  your  wretched  five-cent  rag  next  week.  If 
there's  anythin'  in  it  I  don't  like,  I'll  put  my  fist 
in  at  yer  face  an'  out  at  the  back  of  your  head  ! 
You  want  to  remember  that!"  With  which 
amial^le  farewell  he  strode  out  on  to  the  side- 
walk. 

The  sight  of  us  brought  him  to  with  a 
jerk.  He  had  plenty  of  fight  left  in  him,  but 
night  was  coming  on,  and  he  had  a  ten-mile 
drive  home.  For  a  minute  he  stood  gazing, 
the  light  of  battle  mustering  in  his  eyes.  Then 
an  idea  fell  from  heaven  upon  Joe  the  insig- 
nificant, who  had  skulked  behind  the  bar  earlier 
in  the  day. 

Springing  to  Simpson's  waggon  which  stood 
near,  he  snatched  the  horses  free,  and  laying 
the  whip  viciously  across  their  backs  sent  them 
off  down  the  road  at  a  gallop. 

Simpson  looked  after  them,  returning  reason 
and  bloodthirstiness  struggling  visibly  within 
him.     Then  he  turned  to  us. 

"  That  was  a  right  smart  move,  boys,"  he 
said  ;  "  that  feller  will  die  before  long."  No 
one  spoke,  and  Simpson  continued  argumenta- 
tively  : — 

"  You  reckon  you're  a  clever  crowd,  don't 
you  ?  I've  got  a  sick  hen  at  my  place  which 
would  kill  the  best  man  in  the  town.  Ye'd 
better  go  in  now  an'  rivet  yer  blamed  magistrate 
together.     He's  kinder  comin'  to  pieces." 

But  these  taunts  evoked  no  response.  We 
listened  apathetically,  and  Simpson  looked 
round  in  vain  for  a  face  with  a  spark  of  fight  in 
it  ;  we  returned  his  gaze  with  eyes  as  void  of 
speculation  as  those  of  Banquo's  ghost.  Evi- 
dently there  was  no  more  sport  in  us  to-night. 
Realizing  this,  he  turned  to  look  after  his 
horses,  which  were  by  this  time  nearly  out  of 
sight. 

Suddenly  he  remembered  the  waggon  con- 
tained several  things  he  had  bought  for  his 
wife,  to  whom  he  is  not  a  hero,  and  he  set  off 
after  them  at  an  earth-shaking  trot. 

That  was  the  last  we  saw  of  him  :  he  vanished 
into  the  gathering  darkness  after — half  a  mile 
after — his  waggon,  and  whether  he  caught  it 
anywhere  on  the  ten  -  mile  stretch  of  prairie 
between  H and  his  home  I  never  knew. 

When  he  had  compared  notes  with  his 
reporter,  Jabez  Sherman,  J. P.,  addressed  some 
remarks  to  that  gentleman  in  the  presence  of 
his  delighted  fellow-townsmen.  The  magistrate 
dealt  chiefly  with  his  subordinate's  moral  and 
physical  defects  and  general  unfitness  for 
journalism,  passing  on  to  his  personal  appear- 
ance, and  winding  up  with  a  few  remarks  on  his 
ancestry  and  a  rough  estimate  of   the  amount  of 


54° 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


cubic  space  he  would  be  allotted  in  the  lower 

regions.  ^  , 

When  he  had  disposed  of  the  reporter,  Jabez 
turned  to  McCulloch  and  summed  up  his 
character   and  history,  past  and  present,   in  a 


As  for  the  constable,  he  sent  in  his  resignation 
next  day.  His  nerves,  he  said,  could  not  stand 
the  strain  of  public  life  any  longer. 

The   reporter  left  H the  following  day. 

In  its  next  issue  the  Rustler  announced  that  he 


"the  magistrate  dealt  chiefly  with  his 
subordinate's  moral  and  physical  defects.' 


way  that  actually  called  a  blush  to  that  worthy's 
morocco-leather  cheek. 

"  If  you  sold  clean,  decent  whisky,"  ran 
Jabcz's  [K-'roration,  "  this  wouldn't  ha'  hap- 
pened. Anyhow,  the  next  dynamite  bomb  that 
gets  full  on  your  rubbish  you  can  lay  out  your- 
self;  don't  bring  him  to  me.  I  know  my  duty 
as  a  magistrate,  an'  I  reckon  to  die  in  my  bed. 
This  here  martyr  business  with  devourin'  lion 
attachment  don't  suit  me  worth  a  cent.  Its  all 
right  in  pictures,  but  my  figure  ain't  cut  out  for 
pictures." 

Neither  McCulloch  nor  the  reporter  defended 
themselves;  they  felt  that  appearances  were 
against  them,  and  that  silence  was  most 
becoming.  » 


had  gone  East  to  recuperate— strangely  enough, 
the  only  allusion  it  made  to  this,  the  most 
exciting  event  that  ever  happened  in  the 
town.  Jabez  had  to  forego  all  vengeance  on 
Simpson. 

The  law  was  clear  that,  once  having  been 
acquitted  without  reservation,  he  could  not  be 
re-arrested,  though  Jabez,  it  is  said,  wrote  to  the 
authorities  suggesting  that  the  volunteers  should 
be  called  out  for  that  purpose. 

But  the  point  in  all  this  to  which  I  would  call 
your  attention  is  that,  even  in  the  British  Empire, 
where  the  law  is  a  fetish,  in  days  when  valour  is 
thought  to  be  a  product  of  taxation,  the  heroic 
mood  still  asserts  its  eternal  supremacy  over  all 
merely  human  things  and  institutions. 


Bv    W.    r.    Jameson    Reid. 

The  author  and   some  Shanghai  friends  arranged  a    "quiet   little  shooting  trip"  up-country  in  China 

The    expedition    proved    anything     but    quiet,    however,    as    they    had    the    ill-luck    to    fall    foul    of   an 

infuriated   mob,  winding   up    their    adventures    by    hurling    a    Chinese    magistrate    into    the    river    and 

"  runnmg  the  gauntlet"  in  a  small  boat  under  a  bridge  crowded  with  hostile  Celestials. 


■ 


N  the  summer  of  1899  I  was  resting 
for  a  few  weeks  at  Shanghai,  after  a 
somewhat  trying  campaign  in  my 
capacity  as  a  special  correspondent 
with  the  United  States  troops  in  the 
Philippine  Islands.  I  had  been  rather  knocked 
up  by  the  hard  work  of  the  few  months  previous, 
and  when  my  old  friend,  Dr.  Wilson,  who  had 
resided  in  China  for  many  years,  proposed  a  quiet 
little  shooting  trip  up-country  to  relieve  the 
monotony  of  everyday  life,  I  gladly  welcomed 
the  opportunity  to  forget  my  troubles  and  to 
secure  a  few  weeks'  capital  sport.  Mr.  Oswald, 
another  old  foreign  resident  of  Canton,  was  also 
to  form  one  of  the  party. 

The  necessary  arrangements  having  been 
completed,  we  sailed  for  five  days  up  the  dirty 
Yellow  River  in  a  small  slat-sailed  sampan  until 
we  ran  into  a  by-stream  on  whose  banks 
we  had  been  told  capital  pheasant-shooting 
was  to  be  found.  On  the  sixth  morning, 
after  the  lowdah^  or  Chinese  skipper,  had 
made  the  craft  fast  to  the  bank  by  two 
grapnels,  Wilson  and  I  went  ashore  accompanied 
by  our  boy,  an  intelligent  young  Chinaman  of 
Shanghai,  a  couple  of  beaters,  and  four  retriever 
dogs.       Oswald,    not    feeling    particularly    well. 


elected  to   remain    on   board   the   sampan    and 
look  after  things  until  we  returned. 

We  had  not  proceeded  far  when  presently 
the  birds  began  to  fly  and  run  in  dozens  before 
the  beaters  and  dogs.  P'or  a  few  minutes  our 
guns  blazed  as  rapidly  as  cartridges  could  be 
fed  to  them.  Then  the  people  of  several 
neighbouring  hamlets  began  to  turn  out  in  force 
at  the  noise  of  the  "  foreign  devils' "'  weapons, 
until  several  hundred  must  have  congregated 
near  and  around  us.  As  the  crowds  continued 
to  increase,  Wilson  repeatedly  told  some  of  the 
men  that  they  and  their  fellows  ran  great 
risk,  and  that  it  was  advisable  for  them  to 
keep  farther  away.  But  through  the  habitual 
stubbornness  of  the  Chinese,  or  disinclination 
to  obey,  the  rascals  either  laughed  at  him  or 
ignored  him  entirely.  They  seemed  at  once 
careless  of  their  own  safety  and  insolent,  as 
though  they  were  only  seeking  for  some  good 
e.xcuse  to  create  one  of  the  hostile  disturbances 
which  were  becoming  quite  common  in  China 
at  that  time,  even  in  the  districts  round  about 
Shanghai. 

Shooting  at  some  distance  from  Wilson's  right, 
I  was  particularly  hampered  and  annoyed  by  the 
crowd,  but  I  had  laid  to  heart  my  friend's  warn- 


542 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


ings,  and  fired  with  the  utmost  caution.     Never- 
theless Wilson  shouted  to  me  : — 

"  For  goodness'  sake  be  careful,  old  chap. 
Don't  even  aim  at  a  bird  unless  you  are  sure 
that  there  is  no  one  in  your  line  of  fire." 

"  Don't  be  alarmed  !  "  I  replied  ;  "  Fm  keeping 
a  good  look-out !  "  But  even  as  I  S[)oke  a  very 
fine  cock  pheasant  rose  near  me  from  the  long 
grass,  and  pitched  at  a  copse  within  range. 
Without  taking  time  to  think  or  look  closely  at 
the  copse,  I  brought  the  gun  to  my  shoulder 
and  fired.  The  damage  was  done  !  Blended 
with  the  roar  of  my  gun  I  heard  a  piercing  yell 
of  pain,  and  as  the  bird  scurried  into  the 
thicket  a  Chinaman  ran  out  from  it  bellowing 
at  the  top  of  his  lungs.  He  was  evidently  more 
frightened  than  hurt,  for  the  guns  were  only 
loaded  with  light  bird-shot,  and  the  speed  with 
which  he  bowled  along  showed  that  he  was  still 
good  for  many  years  to  come. 

I  breathed  a  sigh  of  relief  that  the  damage 
was  not  greater,  but  speedily  noticed  that  the 
unfortunate  incident  had  brought  on  more 
serious  consequences  than  I  had  expected. 
After  one  breathless  moment  of  silence  the 
wounded  man's  scream  was  answered  by  a 
general  howl  of  alarm  and  rage.  I  saw  at  once 
that  the  mob  was  infuriated,  and  lost  no  time 
in  plunging  through  the  high  grass  toward 
Wilson  and  the  Chinese  boy.  Scarcely  were 
we  together  when  the  mob  was  upon  us, 
screaming  and  shouting  and  flourishing  fists 
bulged  out  with  stones.  W'ilson  gravely  called 
my  attention  to  the  fact  that  all  the  women  and 
children  had  been  sent  away,  and  we  momen- 
tarily expected  the  crowd  of  men  to  close  in  on 
us,  but,  savage  as  their  temper  and  their  shrieks 
and  imprecations  were,  they  still  delayed  the 
rush  as  if  afraid  of  the  guns.  The  beaters  took 
advantage  of  their  hesitancy  to  retreat  to  the 
sampan  with  the  dogs. 

Wilson  suddenly  effected  a  diversion  by 
calling  for  the  man  whom  I  had  so  unhappily 
shot.  At  this  the  mob's  howls  ceased  a  little, 
and  they  pushed  the  wounded  man  to  the  front. 
Truly,  he  was  in  a  sorry  plight,  for  several  of 
the  pellets  had  hit  his  face  and  neck  ;  but  hold- 
ing up  his  hand  for  silence  Wilson  explained 
that  he  was  a  surgeon  and  that  he  would  soon 
relieve  the  wounded  man  if  they  would  but 
keep  quiet,  whereupon  the  people,  consumed 
with  curiosity,  stood  back  and  gave  him  room 
to  operate.  He  u.sed  some  small  surgical  in- 
struments from  a  case  he  was  accustomed  to 
carry  in  his  pocket,  and  before  long  his  deft 
fingers  had  extracted  most  of  the  lead,  for  the 
pellets  had  not  penetrated  deeply.  Then  he 
washed  the  patient's  face  with  a  handkerchief 
dipped  in  water  from  a  drinking-flask,  and  finally 


tied  his  features  up  in  anotlier  handkerchief. 
During  the  performance  the  curiosity  of  the 
natives  kept  them  quiet,  and  Wilson  took 
advantage  of  the  calm  to  tell  the  wounded  man 
that  we  would  pay  him  liberally  for  the  accident 
which  he  had  suffered.  But  such  was  the  man's 
pain  that  this  offer  seemed  to  make  no  consol- 
ing impression  on  his  mind,  nor  did  it  placate 
the  crowd  ;  it  rather  appeared  to  excite  them 
anew.  They  crowded  in  more  closely,  and 
began  jostling  us  so  roughly  that  we  had  to  let 
the  wounded  man  go  in  order  to  stand  together 
against  what  seemed  an  effort  to  separate  us. 
We  believed  that  the  purpose  of  our  assailants 
was  to  sweep  us  off  our  feet  and  trample  us  to 
death  when  down.  Reluctant  as  we  were  to 
use  our  guns  in  self-defence,  we  felt  that  we 
should  be  shortly  called  upon  to  do  so.  Pre- 
sently, however,  a  new  movement  of  the  throng 
gave  us  relief. 

A  medley  of  yells  rose  on  the  edge  of  the 
crowd,  and  they  fell  farther  back  from  us. 
Through  the  narrow  lane  thus  formed  a  fat, 
pompous  old  Chinaman  came  along.  He  intro- 
duced himself  to  us  as  the  tao-tai,  or  mayor,  of 
the  village  to  which  the  wounded  man  belonged, 
and  in  a  most  openly  hostile  and  insulting  tone 
informed  us  that  he  should  see  that  we  made 
full  amends  for  what  he  was  pleased  to  call 
"the  outrage."  Then  he  began  a  long-winded 
harangue,  describing  the  pain  his  dear  friend 
suffered,  the  woe  into  which  the  foreigners  had 
plunged  the  village,  and  the  depth  of  his  own 
pity  for  the  wounded  man.  He  ended  by 
dwelling  long  and  feelingly  on  the  subject  of 
indemnity  to  the  wounded  man  and  his  family. 

Seeing  how  matters  stood,  Wilson  informed 
him  that  we  would  pay  all  the  money  we  had 
with  us — eighteen  Mexican  dollars  — but  that  it 
was  in  our  boat  and  that  we  must  be  allowed  to 
return  there  in  safety  to  get  it.  Fully  an  hour 
of  bargaining  went  by  before  a  compromise  was 
reached.  The  tao-tai  agreed  finally  that,  with 
the  Chinese  boy,  I  should  go  first  to  the  boat, 
while  he,  the  tao-tai,  regarding  Wilson  as  hostage 
for  the  cash,  should  follow  with  him  at  a 
distance.  Wilson  would  be  allowed  to  go 
aboard  after  I  should  have  given  the  money 
over  into  the  tao-tai's  hands.  Though  this  plan 
would  separate  us,  and  perhaps  permit  the 
tao-tai  to  kill  Wilson  after  the  payment  of  the 
money,  it  afforded  some  chance  of  escape  to 
both  of  us,  and  there  was  nothing  more  feasible 
that  we  could  think  of. 

"  Now,"  said  Wilson  to  me,  "  you  must  walk 
slowly  to  that  white  post  yonder.  It's  within 
sight  of  the  river,  and  when  you  reach  it  run  (or 
the  boat  as  fast  as  you  can,  and  tell  Oswald 
about  the  affair.     As  soon  as  you  get  the  money 


OUR    QUIET     Liri'Ll':    SllOOilNd     I'RII'. 


543 


bring  it  on  shore,  ready  to  pay  over 
when  the  iao-iai  arrives  with  me. 
I'll  insist  on  walking  slowly,  so 
that  you  can  have  things  ready  for 
saiHng.  Tell  the  /o7i<da/j  to  get 
everything  ready  to  cast  off  at  a 
moment's  notice,  for  there's  no  tell- 
ing what  further  trouble  wc  may 
have  with  these  beggars  before  we 
get  through.  And,  above  all  else, 
don't  let  one  of  these  Chinamen 
go  aboard.  You'll  easily  beat  them 
in  the  race  and  have  time  to  get 
the  cash,  and  then  you  and  Oswald 
had  better  stand  by  with  your  guns, 
in  case  any  attempt  is  made  to 
seize  the  sampan." 

Away   I   started    at    full    speed, 
while  Wilson  and  the  tao-tai  were 
soon  left  l)ehind  with  but  a  small 
escort,  till  at  last  the  idea  seemed 
to    come    upon   both   of    them   at 
once  that  the  crowd  would  swarm 
on   the   boat.       So  they,    in    turn, 
began   to   run,  the   tao-tai  to  save 
the  money,  of  which  he  certainly 
wished  to  take  a  large  share,  and 
Wilson  to  be  present  in  any  fight 
that  might  occur  from   an  attempt 
to  seize  the  boat.     The  expression 
of  the  tao-tafs  face  as  he  galloped 
along,    panting    and    puffing,    was 
comical    in     the     extreme.       His 
bulging  neck   craned  forward,   his 
dirty    hands    were    spread    out    in 
appeal,    while,    as   far  as    his 
diminished   breath  would  permit,    he  screamed 
useless   entreaties   to  the  people,  whom  he  evi- 
dently   expected  to  see  pulling  the  sampan  to 
pieces  and   scrambling    over    his   much-desired 
dollars.     Indeed,  the  rush  of  the  crowd  was  so 
headlong  that  I  feared  that  they  would  even  beat 
me  and  capture  and  overrun   the  boat  before  I 
could  explain  to  Oswald   and   the  /ozvdah  that 
they  must  be  kept  at  bay.    Summoning  all  my  re- 
maining strength  I  managed  to  scramble  aboard, 
and  quickly  explained  the  situation  to  Oswald. 
Then  we  stood  ready  to  shoot  from  deck.     The 
clamouring   mob   in   the   meantime  had   halted 
on  the  bank   a   little   distance  away,  and  were 
screaming  and  cursing  more  horribly  than  ever. 
Search  as  I  would,  I  could  not  find  the  money, 
and   as  Wilson    came    up   I    shouted  :    "  You'll 
have  to  come  aboard  and  find  it  yourself.     Both 
Oswald    and    I    have   made   a    search,   but    the 
crowd  was  getting  so  close  and  were  becoming 
so  ugly-tempered  that  we  thought  it   better  to 
remain  on  deck  and  pre[)are  for  emergencies." 
"All  right,"  he  shouted,   in   reply;   "I'll  tell 


HE   SCREAMED    LSF.LESS    ENTREATIES   TO   THE   PEOPLE. 


the  tao-tai  that  you  can't  find  the  money,  and 
that  I'll  have  to  come  aboard  to  get  it.  He  can 
come  aboard,  too,  if  he  chooses." 

To  our  amazement  the  tao-tai  made  no  objec- 
tion, but  pushed  through  the  crowd,  and.  when 
they  would  have  stopped  Wilson,  said  some- 
thing to  them  in  a  low  voice  which  had  a 
quieting  effect.  Then  he,  too,  came  aboard. 
Leaving  him  on  deck  Wilson  hurriedly  searched 
through  our  paraphernalia,  desiring  to  get  rid 
of  our  unwelcome  guest  and  his  more  unwel- 
come satellites  as  soon  as  possible.  But  he 
had  forgotten  where  he  had  put  the  money,  and 
took  some  little  time  in  finding  it.  When  he 
returned  with  the  cash  he  plainly  showed  his 
surprise  on  finding  the  tao-tai  smiling  most 
agreeably  and  bowing  most  profoundly  to 
Oswald  and  myself,  heaping  upon  us  all  the 
flowery  eulogiums  of  Chinese  speech.  On  shore 
the  crowd  stood  silently  watching,  while  the 
Imvda/i  and  our  .boy  were  still  busy  with  the 
sail. 

We   were   totally  deceived   by  the   peaceable 


544 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MACJAZINE. 


appearance  of  the  tao-tai  and  the  natives,  and 
when  we  put  the  money  into  the  fat,  greasy 
hand  of  the  former  we  imagined  that  the  trouble 
was  all  over.  Anxious  to  get  away,  Wilson  gave 
orders  to  the  lowdah  to  cast  off  the  grapnels, 
hut,  although  he  understood  perfectly  this 
movement,  the  tao-tai  did  not  seem  to  think  of 
retiring.  Clutching  the  money,  he  turned  to 
speak  to  us  in  a  fiiendly  manner.  By  his  clever 
mancL'uvring  he  had  just  succeeded  in  getting 
us  to  turn  our  backs  to  the  shore,  when  I 
happened  to  glance  at  the  crowd  and  imme- 
diately surmised  their  intention.  They  hoj)ed  to 
swarm  on  board  and  overpower  us  while  the 
tao-tai  diverted  our  attention  by  amiable  remarks  I 
The  men  in  front  were  plainly  meditating  a  rush, 
and  as  I  looked  from  them  to  the  tao-tai  I 
caught  him  just  in  the  act  of  giving  an  apparently 
meaningless,  but  doubtless  preconcerted,  signal. 
Wilson,  too,  caught  the  slight  movement,  and 
shouted  to  the  lowdah  to  cast  off  at  once.  The 
tao-tai  was  standing  quite  near  the  edge  of  the 
boat,  and  Oswald,  who  thought  that  it  was  about 


HE   CI.UTCHKD    WIIDrV    AT    I  (IK    AIR    AND    LET   OO   THE    M 


ONEV. 


time  to  do  something  to  relieve  the  tension, 
promptly  lifted  that  worthy  up  in  his  arms  with- 
out further  ado,  and  a  moment  later  a  very 
surprised  and  very  indignant  old  Chinaman  was 
hauled  ignominiously  from  the  muddy  waters  of 
the  Yangtse  by  his  companions,  just  as  the  last 
grapnel  was  hauled  in  and  the  gang-plank 
abandoned  to  the  feet  of  the  surprised  natives 
who  were  already  on  its  shore  end. 

As  the  tao-tai  went  overboard  he  clutched 
wildly  at  the  air  and  let  go  the  money  he  held 
in  his  fat  fist.  Next  moment  the  sampan  \\m\ 
drawn  clear  away  from  the  bank,  and  before  our 
assailants  had  recovered  their  scattered  faculties 
at  beholding  our  desecration  of  the  sacred 
personage  of  the  tao-tai  she  was  in  the  middle 
of  the  stream. 

"  Well,  we're  well  out  of  that  scrape,"  said 
Wilson,  laughing  at  the  absurd  figure  which  the 
fat  man  presented,  "and  I'm  glad  he  lost  his 
money,  for  you  can  make  sure  that  he  would 
have  kept  it  for  himself,  and  that  the  chap  you 
wounded  would  see  little  of  it." 

A  damper  was  placed  on  our  felicity,  however, 
by  a  remark  from  the  lotvdah,  who  exclaimed  : 
"  Tao-tai  muchee  angry  ;  no  finished  yet." 

Unfortunately  for  us  his  surmise  proved  only 

too  correct,  for,  wroth  at  the  indignity  to  which 

he  had  been  exposed  before  the  eyes  of  his  own 

people,  the  fat  man's  nimble  brain   was  already 

busy  with  a  new  plan  for  revenge.     The  crowd 

were  running    along   the   bank,   and   screaming 

words  which    meant,    "To   the 

bridge  !   To  the  bridge  !    Catch 

the   foreign    devils    under    the 

bridge  !  " 

"  What  good  will  the  bridge 
do  them  ?  "  asked  Oswald. 

"  I  suppose  that  they  mean 
tcj  throw  stones  down  on  us  as 
we  run  under,"  replied  ^Vilson  ; 
"  I  hope  we  can  get  there  be- 
fore those  beggars,  for  it's  likely 
to  be  a  nasty  business." 

But  a  wide  turn  in  the  stream 
gave  the  Chinese  an  advantage 
over  our  slowly  moving  sam- 
pan, and  when  she  approached 
the  bridge  it  was  filled  with  people 
from  end  to  end.  They  knew  that 
the  sampan  must  run  under  the  low 
bridge  to  get  into  the  main  stream  of 
the  Yangtse,  and  they  reckoned  that 
by  keeping  us  crowded  to  one  side  of 
the  stream  the  mast  of  our  boat 
would  l)e  too  high  for  passage  under  the  single 
nr(  li  of  the  structure,  while  if  we  unshipped 
the  mast — as  we  had  done  as  a  precautionary 
measure  while  going    up-stream  —  we    should 


^r 


OUR    QUIET    LUTI.K    SIIOOIINC     IRIl'. 


545 


be  totally  at  the  mercy  of  the  volley  of  stones 
they  held  ready  to  launch  at  us  immediately 
we  came  within  range.  Even  if  there  should 
be  room  for  us  to  pass  under  with  the  mast 
and  sail  in  position,  they  calculated,  doubt- 
less, that  it  would  be  so  high  up  that  they 
could  clutch  it,  swarm  down  the  rigging,  and 
kill  the  "  forei(Mi  devils,"  even  though  at  some 
cost  to  themselves.  On  the  other  hand,  if  the 
mast  should  pass,  the  lowdah  would  steer 
wildly  and  might  run  the  boat  ashore  on  the 
rocky  shoals  below  the  bridge. 

As  it  was  absolutely  ne(-essary  that  we  should 
be  going  as  fast  as  possible  when  passing  under 
the  bridge,  we  decided  in  favour  of  the  chance 
of  going  under  at  full  speed, 
and,  if  our  worst  surmises  that 
there  was  not  room  enounh 
proved  correct,  to  fight  despe- 
rately to  the  end. 

Crouching     down     in     tin- 
bottom  of  the  sampan,  the  Iinv- 
da/i,   whose   position   was   the 
most  precarious    of   all,    shel- 
tered  himself   as   well   as    he 
could     from     the     impendin 
fusillade  and   steered   straight 
for  the  middle  of  the  bridge, 
with  the  wind  nearly  astern,  so 
that    by  the  time   we    had 
reached    it    vve    were    moving 
fairly  fast  through   the   water. 
As  we   came   on   the  howling 
mob  above  screamed  with  joy 
and  pointed  exul- 
tantly   to    the 
rocky    shoal    be- 
yond.    The   feet 
of  some  of  them 
dangled  over  the 
parapet  in  readi- 
ness to  jump   to 
our  mast  and  rig- 
ging in   case  the 
boat  stopped,  and 
along   the   whole 
side  of  the  bridge 
grinned  a  couple 
of    hundred    vil- 
lainous faces. 

lUit  what  a  yell 
of  mingled  disap- 
pointment and 
rage  rose  when 
the  tip  of  the  mast  passed 
swiftly  clear,  with  nearly  a  foot 
to  spare  !     In  a  few  seconds 


the  sampan  shot  from  the  dimness  of  the  arch- 
way into  sunshine  again,  and  a  perfect  torrent 
of  stones  rained  on  us  as  she  rushed  a[jparently 
at  the  rocks.  This  was  the  signal  for  another 
outburst  and  a  frantic  scrambling  to  reach  us  by 
the  time  we  had  grounded. 

But  the  lowdah  knew  his  business,  and  with 
remarkal)le  adroitness  and  skill  steered  straight 
through  the  pas.sage,  which  barely  gave  room  for 
the  boat's  sides.  Two  minutes  more  and  the 
sampan  was  in  a  broad  stretch  of  water,  and  a 
few  hours  later  the  great  expanse  of  the  Yangtse 
flowing  by  gladdened  us  with  the  knowledge 
that  we  had  made  good  our  escape  and  were 
out  of  danger  from  pursuit. 


"  AS    WE   CAME    ON    THE 
HUWI.ISG    .Mi>li    ABOVE 
SCKEA.MED   WITH   JOV.' 


Vol.  xi.— 69. 


My  ^dvsriturc  with  a  lunatic. 

By  Mrs.  Ethel  Mostyn. 

While  residing  at  a  lonely  country  house,  her  husband  being  absent  in  town,  the  authoress  was 
startled  one  night  by  the  unceremonious  intrusion  of  a  stranger,  who  turned  out  to  be  a  madman  ! 
Of  the  terrible  ordeal  which  followed,   the  young  mother's  anxiety  for  her   baby,  and  the  final  upshot 

of  the  affair,  Mrs.  Mostyn  may  be  left  to  tell. 


N  the  summer  of  1900  we  were  living 
at  Purkett  Hall,  a  roomy,  old- 
fashioned  house,  some  two  hundred 
years  old.  It  had  charmed  our  in- 
experienced minds  by  the  air  of 
romance  which  hung  round  its  creeper-covered 
walls  and  lurked  in  the  corners  of  its  overgrown 
garden.  That  it  was  surrounded  by  barren 
fields  on  the  one  hand  and  moorland  on  the 
other  troubled  us  as  little  as  that  the  high  road 


much  from  home,  and  his  poor  little  wife  was 
left  to  sustain  the  solititde  a  deux  by  calling  to 
her  side  the  one  serving-maid  who  could  be 
found  stolid  enough  to  stay  in  so  lonely  a  spot. 
It  was  true  that  on  bright  summer  days  our 
friends  would  ride  over  from  the  town,  some 
two  dozen  strong,  and  have  tea  and  tennis  and 
then  depart  as  they  had  come.  But  the  remedy 
was  even  worse  than  the  disease  ;  for  in  that 
secluded  spot  the  visits  of  the  baker  were  few 


•   >- 

1 

1 

-«»-  -  ^ 

^ 

y 

^^K  III  nJ^H  ^H  ^Bin  ^^■H 

1'   I   Kl    i-l     ItAI.L,   THE   LONELV  COUNIkV    HOUSE    IN   WHICH    MRS.    MOSTYN   ENXOUNIEUED   THE   MAD.MAN. 

From  a  Photo. 


was  a  mile  and  a  half  away,  and  the  nearest 
town  (luite  five  miles  distant.  We  had  only 
just  been  married,  and  solitude  a  deux  was  all  we 
asked  of  Fortune. 

Alas,  for  love's  young  dream  !  It  did  not 
take  us  long  to  find  that  thorns  beset  the  roses 
of  our  country  home.  My  husband  had 
certainly  the  best  of  it,   for  business  took  him 


and  far  between,  and  when  our  friends  departed 
in  the  evening  it  was  as  though  a  swarm  of 
locusts  had  visited  the  land. 

I  had  always  fondly  imagined  that  I  shared 
with  Wordsworth,  Thoreau,  and  other  great 
minds  a  deep  love  for  the  country,  but  a  few 
months  of  this  kind  of  thing  sufficed  to  con- 
vince   me    that    I    had,    in    the    past,    seriously 


MY    ADVENTURE    WITH    A    LUNATIC. 


547 


MY   COOK    DEFARIED    Al'    A    MOMENTS    NOTICE. 


underrated  urban  charm.s.  On  the  rare  occa- 
sions when  I  went  to  the  town  I  positively 
gazed  with  affection  into  the  eyes  of  the  people 
in  the  streets — they  were  such  an  improvement 
ui)on  cows. 

It  was  not,  however,  till  we  had  lived  at 
Purkett  eighteen  months  that  I  received  the 
fright  which  determined  us  once  for  all  to  return 
to  town. 

Baby  was  a  few  months  old,  and  my  own 
health  was  far  from  good.  My  husband  had 
gone  up  to  London  in  the  morning,  leaving  it 
uncertain  whether  he  would  return  tliat  day  or 
the  next.  Our  household  at  that  time  consisted 
of  our  three  selves,  counting  baby  as  one,  Miss 
Shackleton,  my  lady-help,  and  a  small  house- 
maid, named  Annie.  My  cook  had  departed  at 
a  moment's  notice  a  week  before,  saying,  as  she 
shook  the  dust  of  the  kitchen— too  literally  — 
from  her  feet,   "  This  place  gives  me  the  'ump. 


I'll  be  glad  to  get  where  there's 
more  folk  and  less  turnips." 

I  couldn't  blame  iier  for  going. 
I  should  have  gone  myself,  had 
I  been  as  free  I 

The  day  which  was  hence- 
forth to  stand  alone  in  my 
memory  dawned  bright  and  fair, 
but  as  evening  closed  in  rain  fell 
heavily,  and  1  began  to  hope,  for 
his  own  sake,  that  my  husband 
had  decided  to  remain  in  town 
all  night. 

To  understand  what  happened 
next  you  must  know  that  the 
principal  door  of  our  house 
()[)ened  into  a  large  square  hall, 
carpeted  with  soft  rugs.  Beyond 
this  was  the  back  hall,  paved 
""  with   red    and    blue    tiles,    and 

commanded  by  a  half-glass  door 
leading  into  the  morning-room. 

It  was  my  custom  to  sit  in 
this  room  when  my  husband 
was  away,  for  being  nearer  the 
kitchen  I  felt  less  lonely  than 
in  the  drawing-room  ;  and  fre- 
quently I  would  have  baby 
brought  in  in  her  bassinette  so 
that  I  could  sit  and  watch  her 
while  she  slept. 

As  the  evening  wore  on  the 
weather  became  much  worse,  the 
wind  howling  through  the  empty 
rooms  and  down  the  wide  chim- 
neys till  I  felt  quite  eerie. 

At  a  quarter  to  ten  Annie 
came  in  with  the  alarum,  which 
I  was  to  set  for  the  following 
morning.  I  kept  the  bright  little  maid  for  a 
few  minutes,  glad  of  an  excuse  for  a  few  words 
with  a  fellow-creature,  and  as  I  let  her  go  I 
heard  heavy  footsteps  passing  over  the  tiled 
hall. 

"  Dear  me  !  "  I  thought,  "  what  an  elephan- 
tine tread  Miss  Shackleton  is  cultivating  !  " 

At  the  same  moment  Annie  reached  the  door, 
uttered  a  piercing  scream,  and  then  scuttled 
back  across  tiie  room  like  a  startled  rabbit, 
cowering  down  behind  me,  clutching  at  my 
hand,  and  staring  with  terrified  eyes  in  the 
(hrection  of  the  door.  Bidding  her  be  quiet, 
fur  she  was  uttering  the  most  dismal  moans  and 
groans,  I  looked  towards  the  door,  and  saw 
above  the  silk  curtain  which  screened  it  a  pair 
of  wild  eyes  and  a  tangled  shock  of  hair. 
Simultaneously  the  door  was  pushed  open  and 
a  tall,  muscular  fellow  over  six  feet  high  strode 
into  the  room  and  sank  exhaustedly  into  a  chair. 


548 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


Shaking  off  Annie's  hand  with  difficulty,  and 
telling  Miss  Shackleton,  who  came  into  the 
room  just  then,  to  guard  baby,  I  rose  from  my 
chair  and  asked  the  intruder  what  he  wanted. 

"A  dry  shirt  and  a  bed,"  he  growled,  glaring 
at  me  with  eyes  in  which  it  needed  no  previous 
experience  to  see  the  awful  light  of  madness. 


ings,  "please  go  upstairs  and  look  out  some  dry 
clothes  for  our  visitor.  Annie  will  come  with 
you  to  bring  them  down.  Oh  !  you  might  take 
baby  up,  too,"  I  added,  casually,  stifling  an 
inward  fury  against  her,  for  the  stupid  woman 
was  escaping  from  the  room,  leaving  her  help- 
less charge  behind.     I  offered  up  a  prayer  that 

she  might  at  least  be  in- 
spired to  lock  the  nursery- 
door  once  she  was  inside, 
but  I  dare  not  suggest  it, 
lest  the  sleeping  tiger  on 
my  hearthrug  should  be 
aroused  and  spend  his 
fury  upon  us. 


All  that  I  had  ever  heard 
of  encounters  with  madmen 
flashed  across  my  mind,  and 
for  one  horrible  moment  my 
brain    reeled  and    my    heart 
grew  sick  as  I  pictured  him 
seizing  my  precious   baby.      But  at    that  dread 
thought    my    nerves    stiffened    and    my    mind 
became  as  steel   in    my   determination  not   to 
give  way  until  baby,  at  least,  was  safe. 

"Yes,"  said  I,  so  calmly  and  naturally  that 
Annie  ceased  her  quaking  and  Miss  Shackleton 
stared  open-mouthed,  "  I  dare  say  I  can  find  you 
that.  Hut  come  nearer  the  fire  and  rest  awhile  ; 
you  seem  tired  out."  At  this  the  madman 
smiled,  well  pleased,  like  a  child  who  has  got 
what  he  wants,  and  drawing  nearer  the  fire  he 
stretched  himself  out  in  an  easy  chair  and  lazily 
watched  me. 

"  Miss  Shackleton,"  said  I  across  the  room, 
for  I  dared  not  arou.se  his  suspicions  by  whisper- 


I    ROSl!    FROM    .MV   CHAIR    AND   ASKED    THE    INTRUDER    WHAT    HE    WAN!  ED. 


Left  alone  with  the  madman  I  breathed  a 
little  more  easil)',  for  I  had  feared  lest  a  cry 
from  baby,  or  a  shriek  of  fear  from  Annie, 
should  have  wakened  him  to  action.  I  looked 
at  him  again  and  saw  what  I  had  not  previously 
noticed— that  he  wore  his  clothes  like  a  gentle- 
man and  was  not  ill-looking.  Moreover,  though 
obviously  suffering  from  fatigue,  he  was 
apparently  in  good  health. 

As  I  watched  him  he  raised  his  head  and 
looked  at  me  without  speaking. 

"Oh!"  said  I,  quickly,  "I  was  thinking  I 
had  no  clothes  large  enough  to  fit  you,  but  if 
you  will  take  off  your  wet  coat  I  can  find  you 
something  to  put  on  while  it  dries."     Going  to 


MV    ADVENTLRK    WITH    A    LUNATIC 


549 


a  drawer  in  the  bureau  I  brought  out  a  white 
sweater  belonging  to  my  brother-in-law.  This 
met  with  the  madman's  approval,  and,  apologizing 
to  me  with  the  manner  and  speech  of  a  gentle- 
man, he  exchanged  his  saturated  coat  for  it  and 
then  sat  down  and  removed  his  boots,  evidently 
quite  determined  to  settle  down  for  the  night. 

The  increased  calmness  of  his  manner  re- 
assured me,  and  it  crossed  my  mind  that  if  I 
gave  him  some  supper  he  might  sleep  on  the 
couch,  and  that  while  he  slept  we  might  contrive 
to  get  help. 

1  dared  not  leave  him  alone,  lest  he  should 
escape  upstairs  and  find  his  way  to  the  nursery ; 
so,  ringing  the  bell  in 
the  hope  that  Annie 
would  summon  up 
courage  to  answer  it, 
I  asked  her  to  bring 
bread,  meat,  cheese, 
and  a  bottle  of  beer. 
At  the  same  time  I 
gave  her  a  look  in- 
tended to  c  o  n  \-  e  y 
courage  and  caution 
and  a  dozen  other 
qualities,  all  e(iually 
beyond  her  capabili- 
ties. 

It  was  a  relief,  how- 
ever, to  find  that  she 
could  set  the  supper, 
though  the  sight  of  the 
knives  which  she  Lid 
on  the  table  made  my 
i)loou  run  cold,  and  I 
thought,  with  a  shud- 
der, of  the  unpleasant 
feelings  which  con- 
demned criminals  are 
said  to  have  at  the 
thought  of  the  rope 
which  is  to  hang  them. 

I  found  myself  growing  faint  at  the  idea,  and 
again  pulled  myself  together  with  a  stern 
inward  admonition. 

"  I  am  sure  you  must  be  hungry,"  I  said, 
pleasantly  ;  "  may  I  give  you  some  beef?  " 

"  Thanks,"  he  said,  "  I  will  carve  for  myself," 
thus  frustrating  my  simple  device  for  retaining 
possession  of  the  cnrving-knife. 

Breathing  another  prayer  for  help,  I  meekly 
handed  over  the  carvers  and  proceeded  to  cut 
the  bread. 

Up  to  this  time  the  madman  had  said  not  a 
word  that  could  indicate  an  unhinged  mind,  but 
under  the  influence  of  food  and  warmth  he 
began  to  talk.  At  first  he  spoke  cautiously,  as 
though  conscious  that  he  nmst  be  on  his  guard; 


IHE   AUTHORESS,    MRS. 

Front    a    Photo,    by   A. 


but  as  the  meal  drew  to  a  close  he  confided  to 
me  his  plans  for  buying  IJlenheim  Park  and 
turning  it  into  a  kindergarten.  He  professed 
himself  charmed  with  our  country  home,  whose 
charms  he  must  certainly  have  taken  on  trust, 
since  he  came  in  the  dark  and  in  pouring  rain, 
and  cheerfully  announced  his  intention  of 
stopping  a  month  ! 

"  Delighted  to  have  you,"  said  I,  as  brightly 
as  I  could,  "  but  it  will  suit  me  better  to  have 
you  later  on  in  the  summer,  as  all  our  beds  are 
occupied  just  now." 

"  Oh  !  any  cot  will  do  for  me,"  was  the  ready 
response.       "  I    can    sleep    there    if  you    like," 

pointing  to  a  roomy 
Sheraton  couch,  which 
occupied  one  end  of 
the  room. 

'I'his  was  just  what 
I  wanted,  so,  after 
Annie  had  cleared  the 
tabic  and  removed 
those  dreadful  knives, 
I  sent  her  for  pillows 
and  rugs  to  supple- 
ment the  sofa-blanket, 
while  I  revolved  in  my 
mind  how  I  could 
contrive  to  lock  the 
door  on  the  outside 
without  his  knowledge. 
How  I  cursed  that 
half-glass  door  and  my 
own  folly  in  using  that 
room  on  this  particular 
evenine  !  But  curses 
did  not  solve  the  ])ro- 
blem,  and  with  a  sink- 
ing heart  I  was  con- 
tem[)lating  the  prospect 
of  a  terror-ridden  vigil 
through  the  long  night 
yet  to  come,  when  for 
a  second  time  that  evening  Annie  uttered  a 
piercing  shriek  and  I  heard  the  sound  of  tramp- 
ing feet  in  the  passage  outside. 

Instantly  my  unwelcome  visitor  became  trans- 
formed into  a  raging  maniac. 

Leaping  from  the  couch  whereon  he  half  sat, 
half  reclined,  he  hurled  himself  upon  me  like  a 
tornado — and  I  knew  no  more. 

When  ne.xt  I  opened  my  eyes  to  the  world 
the  sun  was  shining  and  my  husband  was  beside 
me.     "  Baby?"  I  gasped. 

"  Happy  as  a  sandboy,"  said  my  husband, 
patting  my  head. 

It  was  not  till  some  hours  later  that  I  was 
able  to  bear  the  full  particulars  of  what  had 
hap()ened.     Then    I    learnt    that    on     his    way 


ETHEL    MOSTVN. 

Tear,    Ipsivkh. 


55° 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


home,  delayed  by  the  storm,  my  husband  had 
met  a  band  of  men  returning  from  a  fruitless 
search  for  a  dangerous  lunatic  who  had  escaped 
that  day  from  a  "house  in  the  neighbourhood. 


of  position,  whose  mind  had  given  way  under 
exceptional  misfortune.  I  never  saw  him  again. 
He  was  taken  away  to  the  asylum  in  a  strait- 
waistcoat,  and  from  time  to  time  we  heard  of 


HE    HURI.KD    HIMSELF    UPON    MK    LIKE   A    TOKNADO. 


Some  premonition,  said  my  husband,  seemed 
t(>  tell  him  the  man  was  at  our  house,  and 
on  learning  that  ihcy  had  not  been  near  Purkett 
Hall  he  begged  them  to  come  on  with  him. 

'riiough  somewhat  unwilling  to  travel  so  far 
on  such  a  wild  night,  they  were  at  length  bribed 
into  compliance,  and  when  they  found  the  Hall 
still  lit  u[)  at  midnight  and  the  hall-door  wide 
open  thc-y  burst  upon  us  just  in  lime  to  drag 
me  from  the  madman's  clutches. 

Poor  fellow  !     It  seemed  he  had  been  a  man 


the  violence  of  his  malady.  At  last  came  the 
news  of  his  death. 

I  am  afraid  I  must  own  to  a  sense  of  relief 
when  this  last  piece  of  news  reached  me.  I  had 
always  been  haunted  by  the  fear  that  he  miglit 
try  to  carry  out  his  resolve  to  come  again  and 
stop  a  month  ! 

Can  you  wonder  that  before  the  winter  set  in 
we  had  turned  our  backs  on  rural  joys  and  were 
living  with  a  neighl)Our  on  each  side  and  the 
whistle  of  the  locomotive  in  our  ears  ? 


"^  Tramp  m  Spain 


By  Bart  Kenned^ 


XI-  Andorra 

TO     SOLDAO 


In  this  instalment  the  author  gives  some  further  impressions  of  the  curious  little  mountain  Republic 
of  Andorra  and  its  strenuous  young  President,  Jose  Calva.  After  leaving  Andorra  Mr.  Kennedy  set 
out    for    the    village    of   Soldao,    en    route    for    Hospitalet,    the    first    town    over    the    French    frontier, 

where  his  long  journey  ended. 


I. 

HE  next  morning  Miguel  Calounes 
began  to  tell  me  about  a  friend  of 
his  who  kept  a  posada  in  Soldao. 
Soldao  was  a  place  five  hours' 
journey  through  the  mountains  from 
Andorra,  and,  according  to  Calounes,  the  best 
ihi^ig  I  could  do  was  to  put  up  at  his  friend's 
posada  when  I  got  there,  and  the  morning  after 
to  continue  my  journey  to  Hospitalet,  the  first 
town  lying  over  the  French  frontier.  Hospitalet, 
however,  was  only  nine  hours'  journey  from 
Andorra,  and  I  failed  to  see  why  I  should  make 
a  two  days'  job  out  of  it.  I  put  this  to  Calounes. 
But  he  paid  no  attention  to  my  point,  but  went 
on  again  to  tell  me  aljout  his  friend  who  kept  the 
posada,  and  how  necessary  it  was  for  me  to  wait 


there  in  Soldao  and  continue  •  my  journey  into 
France  the  morning  after.  At  different  times 
through  the  whole  of  the  day  he  kept  telling  me 
this  in  his  dee[),  curiously  vibrant  voice.  Why 
he  should  recur  to  it  so  often  puz/Ied  me. 
Surely  I  could  march  nine  hours  in  one  day. 
But  the  reason  of  his  insistence  in  the  matter 
came  to  me — "when  it  was  too  late !  Through 
disregarding  his  injunction  I  came  as  close  as  a 
man  may  come  to  death. 

This  little  mountain  town  lying  out  of  the 
world  !  I  would  leave  it  the  ne.xt  morning  and 
never  come  back  to  it.  I  thought  of  this  as  I 
went  round  with  Calounes  listening  to  its  story. 
He  was  telling  me  the  story  of  this  town  from 
the  beginning.  I  could  not  understand  all  the 
words    he    was    saying,   but    I    could  grasp   the 


552 


THE   WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


thread  of  his  meaning.  And  he  told  me  of  an 
incident  that  had  happened.  He  told  it  in  the 
direct  way — the  way  in  which  a  man  is  apt  to 
tell  of  a  thing  he  has  either  seen  or  experienced. 
It  related  to  the  calling  of  the  men  of  Andorra 
to  arms — to  the  hurry  and  the  excitement  and 
the  anxiousness  that  come  upon  men  when 
suddenly    menaced    with    destroying,     horrible 


But  to  him  the  happening  was  as  if  it  were 
but  a  happening  of  yesterday.  The  feeling  of 
the  time  had  been  transmitted  to  him  through 
his  ancestors  here  in  these  mountains.  They 
had  fought  and  told  their  sons,  and  their 
sons  had  told  their  sons,  and  so  the  tale 
of  the  anxious  time  had  come  down  through  the 
centuries     to    Miguel     Calounes.        This    fine 


Al-TKU    DINNER    WE   AGAIN   SAT   ROUND   THE  GREAT   FIRE   OF   LOGS. 


invasion.  Lights  burned  up  into  the  skies  from 
I'ehMul  the  mountains,  said  Calounes.  They 
were  coming!  And  Leopardo  came  up  and 
Celled  out  the  men  of  Andorra!  I  asked 
Calounes  how  long  ago  it  was  since  it  had 
hnppened.  "Quinienlos  annos  "  (five  hundred 
years),  he  answered. 


Calounes  !  I  turned  to  look  at  him  as  I  walked 
by  his  side.  Surely  this  man  was  a  man  such 
as  the  immortal  Hofer  Ilofer  the  peasant  who 
thwarted  and  withstood  the  tremendous 
destroyer^Napoleon. 

That  night  after  dinner  we  again   sat   round 
the  great  fire  of  logs  in  the  posada  and  talked 


A    TRAMP    IN    SPAIN. 


553 


till  a  late  hour.  But  there  wa.s  no  argument 
sucli  as  there  had  been  the  night  but  one 
before.  The  Catalan  had  gone  back  to  Spain  — 
to  .Seo  de  Urgel.  So  we  just  drank  our  wine, 
by  the  light  of  the  flames  and  the  redness  of 
the  burning  logs,  smoked,  and  took  it  generally 
easy.  To  me  the  scene  hardly  seemed  real. 
It  was  as  if  I  were  drinking  w^ith  men  of  a  time 
gone  by  hundreds  of  years.  Or  it  was  as  if  I 
were  tlriiiking  with  men  of  a  time  distant 
yet  from  us  by  hundreds  of  years.  The 
scene  did  not  seem  real.  But  the  wine 
was  real  and  the  burning  logs  were  real, 
and  the  great  figure  of  Calounes  and  the  others 
were  real.  And  outside  could  be  heard  the 
roaring  of  the  wind  from  the  mountains  sweep- 
ing through  the  valley  and  through  the  darkness. 
Now  and  then  it  came  in  upon  us  sharply  as  we 
sat  by  the  fire.  And  at  intervals  was  heard  the 
barking  of  dogs.  And  the  outer  door  of  the 
posada  kept  opening  and  shutting  as  someone 
went  out  or  came  in,  letting  in  upon  us  a 
stronger  than  usual  thrust  of  the  wind.  I  felt 
as  a  man  from  the  outside — as  one  would  feel 
who  had  come  in  at  night  amongst  strangers.  I 
had  been  here  now  for  two  days,  and  still  I  felt 
as  if  I  had  come  in  from  the  darkness  but  a 
moment  before.  I  was  here  sitting  by  the  fire 
trying  as  well  as  I  could  to  understand  what  was 
being  said  around  me.  These  men  of  Andorra 
were  strangers,  but  they  were  in  no  way  like 
any  strangers  I  had  ever  come  upon  before. 
'I'hough  I  did  not  understand  them  I  still  felt  at 
home  with  them.  I  was  glad  to  be  here 
drinking  wine  with  them — listening  to  their 
voices --sitting  with  them  before  the  flames  and 
the  redness  of  the  logs. 

In  came  Jose  Calva,  the  President  of  the 
republic.  And  Calounes  arose,  and  he  and 
Calva  went  off  over  to  tlie  other  end  of  the 
posada  to  talk  over  something.  They  were 
soon  back  again  by  the  fire,  and  the  President 
sat  down  and  joined  us.  Calounes'  wife  got  a 
jug  of  wine  for  him. 

The  President  told  me  that  the  population 
of  the  republic  was  something  over  five 
thousand  two  hundred.  It  had  had  much 
about  the  same  number  of  people  in  it  for  the 
last  few  hundred  years.  All  the  men  were 
trained  in  the  use  of  arms,  and  all  would  be 
called  upon  to  serve  their  country  if  the  occa- 
sion arose.  At  a  time  of  war  in  Andorra  there 
would  be  no  place  for  the  \aliant,  patriotic, 
stay-nt-home  shouters.  All  would  have  to  do 
their  bit.  And  a  good  thing,  too.  Every  man 
in  every  country  should  be  trained  and  broken 
in  to  the  use  of  arms. 

The  republic  was  forty-seven  kilbmetros  in 
length,     said    Calva.      I    asked    him    as    to    its 

Vol.  .xi.-70. 


width,  and  he  informed  me  that  it  had  no  width 
to  speak  of.  It  was  just  a  chain  of  valleys 
cutting  through  the  mountain.s,  and  connected 
one  with  the  other  by  narrow,  difficult  passes. 

And  so  Jose  Calva  sat  and  chatted  before  the 
fire.  He  was  most  likely  the  one  and  only  really 
democratic  ruler  in  the  whole  world.  My 
knockings  round  in  different  republics  had 
forced  upon  me  the  conclusion  that  the  le- 
publican  form  of  government  was  bad.  I  had 
lived  in  the  United  States  —  that  great  sham 
republic.  I  had  lived  long  enough  there  to 
shudder  at  the  bare  mention  of  the  word  re- 
public. But  I  must  confess  that  Andorra  and 
Jose  Calva  made  me  think  that  perha])s— that 
perhaps  there  might  be  some  magic  hidden  deep 
down  in  the  word.  That  it  was  a  fine,  glorious 
word  if  the  right  people  gave  utterance  to  it. 

II. 

As  Calounes  was  bidding  me  good-bye  the 
following  morning  he  again  told  me  about  his 
"amigo"  (friend)  who  kei)t  the  posada  in 
Soldao.  I  should  stop  there  and  wait  till  the 
next  day  to  continue  my  journey  to  Hospitalet ! 
I  laughed  and  told  him  it  was  all  right,  and  I 
set  out,  with  my  knapsack  on  my  back,  after 
shaking  hands  all  round. 

When  I  was  about  a  mile  out  of  Andorra  I 
heard  the  ringing  of  horses'  hoofs  in  the  distance 
behind  me.  Three  mounted  men  were  coming 
along  the  path  in  my  direction.  I  stopped  and 
began  to  think.  One  could  never  tell  what 
was  going  to  happen  in  a  strange  country  !  But 
I  dismissed  the  thought  of  danger  the  moment 
it  entered  my  mind.  I  felt  instinctively  that  I 
was  all  right  in  this  republic.  I  was  not  travel- 
ling through  Castilia  now-Castilia  where  lived 
the  people  of  the  sullen  faces.     I  was  all  right  ! 

The  horsemen  turned  out  to  be  Jose  Calva 
himself  and  two  Frenchmen,  one  of  whom 
belonged  to  Hospitalet.  They  were  going  to 
the  next  village. 

On  we  went  together.  A  man  afoot  could 
travel  as  (juick  as  a  horseman  along  this  path, 
and  indeed  (juicker,  for  there  were  places  where 
Calva  and  his  companions  had  to  dismount  and 
drag  u[)  their  horses  after  them. 

Calva  spoke  to  me  of  the  difficulty  of  the 
camino  (path)  which  ran  through  the  republic. 
He  told  me  a  little  story,  which  I  gathered  was 
to  this  effect :  An  Andorrano,  living  in  Andorra, 
had  gone  over  to  Seo  de  Urgel  and  had  become 
fascinated  with  a  piano  he  had  seen  there.  He 
thought  that  it  would  be  a  good  thing  to  have 
in  the  house,  and  that  the  wife  might  like  the 
look  of  it,  so  he  began  to  bargain  with  the 
Spaniard  for  it.  In  ^he  end  the  Andorrano 
gave  a  horse  for  the  piano.     And  he  was  filled 


554 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZLN'E. 


will.  jul)ilation  because  of  getting  it  so  cheaply. 
He  had  beaten  the  Spaniard  in  the  bargaining. 
Hut,  alas!  there  appeared  a  rift  in  the  lute. 
How  was  he  to  get  his  iiroi)erty  to  Andorra  ? 
It  was  too  heavy  and   awkward   to   put   on   the 


when  I  managed  to  make  the  point  clear  to  him 
that,  bad  though  the  road  was,  it  was  a  good 
road  for  Andorra. 

When  we  arrived  at  the  village  we  went  into 
the  posada  to  get  a  fraternal  drink  together  ere 


I    STOI'I'KIl    ASIJ    IlKl.AN    To    liriSK. 


Im'  k    'I  ,  .ind    till-    path    \sas  su<  h  that  it 

was    imi  to   draw   it.       He    la<  klid    the 

S|Kiniar(l  as  to  this,  but  the  Spaniard  was 
adani.iiit.  The  piano  was  no  lonj^cr  his,  and 
ihi-  .\iidurrano  <  ould  do  with  it  as  he  willed  ! 
Ijther  he  rouUI  take  it  away,  or  he  could  leave 
il  where  it  was.  The  upshot  of  the  matter  was 
titat  it  turned  out  to  be  a  dear  [)iano  for  the 
.\nd«>rrano,  Un  it  took  eight  men  eight  days  to 
get  It  to  Andorra- a  tiistance  of  about  seven- 
froin  Seo  de  Urgel.  The  story  was 
And    Cab'i     laughed    out    loud 


we  parted.  It  turned  out  that 
tin-  three  of  them  were  going  to 
liave  liicir  horses  shod.  Over 
our  jugs  of  wine  Calva  ami  1 
conversed  as  well  as  we  were 
able  —  we  seemed  .somehow  to 
take  a  sort  of  a  fancy  to  each 
other— and  the  last  thing  I  re- 
mrmber  lellinL;  liim  was  to  he  sure  and  always 
keep  his  road  bad-  the  road  that  ran  tlirough 
his  dominions.  It  was  fifty  times  better  tlian 
keeping  his  jjowder  dry. 

Tile  next  village  I  saw  was  on  the  left  sule  ot 
a  rather  narrow  valley.  1 1  had  a  (  luioiis  air 
of  stillness  about  il.  When  I  got  close  up  to  it 
I  saw  what  was  the  matter.  It  was  deserted. 
It  looked  older  than  the  other  villages.  Stand- 
ing right  up  above  it  in  a  clclt  on  the  side  of 
the  mountain  was  an  old  ruin  that  looked  as  if 
it  wert;  one?  a  Moorish  castle.     1  could  hardly 


A    TKA.Ml'     IN     Sl'AlN. 


555 


understand  such  a  castle  being  so  far  north  as 
Andorra,  l)Ut  there  it  was  heiore  my  eyes.  The 
deserted  villaiie —alone  here  in  the  nunintains  — 
|)r()(lured  in  me  a  feelin^  of  fear.  The  sun  was 
shilling  hriLjhtly  upon  this  place  that  was  deatl. 
Had  1  seen  it  at 
night  I  would 
not  have  cared. 
Hut  to  see  it  now 
in  the  gleaming 
and  brightness 
of  the  sun  made 
me  feel  afraid. 
Death  and  still- 
ness awe  a  man. 
When  this  village 
was  alive  and 
going  it  might 
have  held  three 
hundred  souls. 
And  it  was  here 
in  a  lonesome 
\  a  1 1  e y  in  the 
mountains  over- 
looked by  an  old, 
mournful  ruin. 
^\■  h  y  had  the 
people  left  it  ?  I 
wondered  about 
this  as  I  passed 
(juickly  on. 

The  path  now 
led  me  almost  straight  up  over  the  summit 
of  a  mountain.  When  I  got  to  the  top  of  it 
I  looked  back.  I  could  see  down  before 
me  the  chain  of  valleys  that  formed  tiie 
Republic  of  Andorra.  I  could  see  them 
as  they  wound  through  the  mountains,  and 
the  narrow  passes  that  connected  them  - 
the  links  of  the  chain.  And  I  could  see 
right  off  into  Spain — into  the  province  of 
Catalonia.  There  was  Seo  de  L'r^cl  !  And 
farther  off  were  mountains  again.  A  bright 
river  was  winding  through  ihcm.  And  there 
were  plains.  And  lakes.  And  behind  tliein 
again  were  mountains  —  shaping  u[)  dim  and 
blue. 


I  felt  as  if  I  Were  on  the  very  top  of  the 
world. 

I  turned,  and  there  was  Soldao  higher  u|) 
still.  As  I  was  working  my  way  up  towards  it  I 
saw  a  woman.     .She  was  coming  down  the  path. 

Where  was  the 
posada,  I  asked. 
She  pointed  to  a 
big,  low  white 
house.  That 
was  the  posada  ! 

Soldao  was  a 
place  of  but 
seven  or  eight 
houses.  A  place 
built  up  on  the 
top  of  a  dax/ling 
whiteness. 

All  around  it 
was  s  n  o  w  a  n  d 
beneath  it 
were  mountains 
covered  with 
snow.  The  tops  of 
the  houses  were 
covered  with 
snow.  And  above 
all  the  sun  was 
shining  brightly. 
Ikit  there  was  no 
warmth  in  the 
brightness.  A 
moment  or  so 
before  I  had  been 
warm  from  the 
exertion  of  climb- 
ing. lUit  now  1 
felt  cold.  I  had 
hardly  got  up  on 
to  the  level  upon 
which  the  village 
stood  before  I  felt  the  coUl.  The  chill  fell 
on  me  sudtlenly.  And  I  decided  that  the  best 
tiling  after  ail  for  me  to  do  was  to  break  my 
journey  here.  I  would  take  the  atlvice  of 
Calounes  and  wait  till  tlie  morning  before  I 
pushed  on  for  1  los[)iuilet. 


SHE    rOlNTRD   TO    A    I'lU,    I.OW    WHITE    IHIUSE. 


(To  be  concluded.) 


THE    SACRED    TOWN    OF    MANDHATA. 

By   W.    E.    S.    McGregor,    of    Mhow,    Central    India. 

A  high  railway  official  of  Central  India  gives  his  personal  impressions  of  a  remarkable  little  sacred  town — 
a  miniature  Benares,  in  fact  — which  he  visited.     The  photographs  of  Mandhata  will  be  found  very  striking. 


FRIPvND  having  received  an  invita- 
tion from  the  courteous  manager 
of  the  little  State  of  Mandhata,  in 
Central  India,  kindly  asked  me 
to  accompany  him  on  his  visit  to 
that  tiny  territory.  On  our  arrival  at  Mortaka 
Station,  on  the  Rajputana-Malvva  Railway,  we 
found  the  manager,  Mr.  Jamsetjee  Rustomjee, 
B.A.,  waiting  to  welcome  us  ;  he  was  accom- 
panied by  a  magnificent  Sepoy,  resplendent  in  a 
blue  uniform  with  red  facings,  set  off  with  gold 
braid.  We  were  offered  a  choice  between  an  ele- 
phant, some  ponies,  and  a  bullock  tonga  to  convey 
us  to  .Mandhata,  a  distance  of  seven  miles.  Our 
worthy  guide  and  host  told  us  that  the  road  was 
not  particularly  good,  so  we  chose  the  ponies,  and 
having  given  instructions  for  loading  our  luggage 
on  a  bullock  cart  we  started  off,  Mr.  Jamsetjee 
leading  the  way  in  the  bullock  tonga.  The  first 
part  of  the  road  was  not  bad,  but  about  the  last 
two-thirds  of  it  was  much  broken  up  — inches  of 
dust  and  lots  of  loose  stones  making  it  almost 
imperative  to  go  slowly.  One  of  our  [)onies 
was  said  to  be  an  Arab,  bought  at  a  cost  of 
700  rupees.  The  other  looked  like  a  Kathiawar 
animal,  and  proved  a  fast  walker — as  soon  as 
lie  rcali/ced  he  was  going  home. 


The  road  had  nothing  very  romantic  about  it, 
passing  at  first  between  fields  of  young  corn, 
but  later  on  taking  a  winding  course  on  more 
elevated  ground — evidently  a  clearing  in  the 
jungle.  The  River  Harbada,  though  not  far 
away  on  our  left,  was  out  of  sight. 

At  the  seventh  mile  we  arrived  at  the  out- 
skirts of  Mandhata,  a  curious  little  town  built 
partly  in  a  sort  of  pass  between  two  low  hills, 
but  also  spreading  out  up  the  hill-sides  and 
down  to  the  rocky,  precipitous  cliffs  overhanging 
the  river.  The  specially  sacred  portion,  how- 
ever, lies  on  an  island  facing  the  rest  of  the 
town.  The  main  road  through  Mandhata  is 
flagged  with  paving-stones,  more  or  less  unevenly 
joined,  and  so  steep  in  places  that  I  felt  my  own 
legs  were  a  safer  mode  of  transport  than  the 
pony's. 

The  up-and-down  streets  faintly  recall  those 
of  Valetta,  in  Malta  (barring  the  shops),  and 
after  passing  the  little  fort  and  going  down  to 
the  charitable  dispensary,  part  of  which  was 
placed  at  our  disposal  as  a  rest  -  house,  the 
resemblance  became  even  more  striking. 
Exactly  opposite  this  standpoint  is  the  island, 
more  than  a  mile  in  length  by  something  less 
in  breadth.      It  is  a  lontr  hill  risin<:  out  of  the 


—  -X-. ,'"  — 


tar 


GENERAL   VIEW    OK    THE   SACKEO   TOWN    r,K    MANI.I.ATA,    SHOWINC,     ,n,      KAJAUs    lAIAO      .,     i,     Mfl-:   ,.Kh:AT   TEMIIh. 

/■'rout  a  I'hoto.  by  S.  Jiiiiisctji. 


THE    SACRED     TOWN    OF    MANDHATA. 


557 


water.  Built  into  the  cliff  is  a  motley  collection 
of  liouses,  constructed  mostly  of  stone  quarried 
out  of  the  island  ;  these  dwellings  have  tiled 
roofs.  A  solid-looking  wall  supports  the  outer- 
most row,  and  a  series  of  long  steps  leading 
down  to  a  ghat,  or  bathing-place,  bears  some 
resemblance  to  the  landing-steps  at  Valetta  ; 
while  above  this  cliff-side  town  is  the  Rajah's 
palace,  a  large  white  building,  ap[)arently  mortised 
into  the  hill,  like  the  rest  of  the  houses.  The 
lower  half  of  the  palace,  facing  the  river,  looks 
like  a  blank  white  wall,  and  is  really  very  little 
else.  Above  is  the  dwelling-house  proper, 
flanked  at  each   end   by  a  low  tower,   and   there 


the  town  and  on  the  island  is  what  appears  to 
be  a  road  up  an  almost  vertical  hillside,  but 
on  looking  through  a  field  -  glass  one  finds 
it  is  a  regular  stone  step  -  ladder ;  so  that, 
if  the  pilgrims  who  visit  this  holy  spot  in 
thousands  during  the  five  annual  fairs  have  to 
climb  these  steps  as  part  of  their  devotional 
course,  they  may  surely  return  to  their  homes 
lighter,  if  not  wiser,  men  and  women  I 

Other  little  shrines,  resembling  small  sentry- 
boxes,  appear  to  dot  the  hill-side  ;  but  some 
of  these  are  mere  recesses  cut  into  the  rock  for 
the  occupation  of  jogis  and  devotees,  who  spend 
their    days    in    contem{)lation    and    meditation, 


"A   SERIES   OF    LONG   STKIS    HEARS    Scl.MlC    KKSKM  lil.ANCK   TO   THE    I.ANDliNG-STEI'S   AT   VALE  11  A. 

From  a  Photo,  by  S.  Jaittsctji. 


are  numerous  windows  and  porticos  all  along 
the  wall.  Farther  to  the  south,  rising  above 
another  ghat,  is  the  large  pagoda-shaped  Temple 
of  Onkarnath,  the  true  source  of  the  sanctity  of 
Mandhata.  A  smaller  temple  stands  up  near 
the  northern  ghat,  opposite  our  rest-house.  My 
friend  says  that  but  for  the  temple  and  palace 
the  general  arrangement  remincls  him  more  of 
Clovelly,  in  Devonshire,  than  any  other  place  he 
can  rail  to  mind.  'I'he  view,  however,  is  a  little 
spoilt  by  an  occasional  corrugated  iron  roof 
interspersed  among  the  tiled   houses.      North  of 


gazing  on  the  holy  river.  We  saw  a  really 
curious  and  interesting  sight  during  our  visit- 
nothing  less  than  an  elephant,  with  cushioned 
pad  and  three  men  on  its  back,  climbing  up  the 
steep  ghat  steps  to  the  road  above.  'I'his  feat 
the  enormous  beast  managed  with  the  skill  and 
ease  of  an  old  habitue  ;  and  we  were  told  it  was 
often  taken  across  the  river,  which  is  very  deep 
at  this  point.  Unfortunately,  however,  we  did 
not  see  the  acrobatic  elephant  in  the  very  act 
of  swimming  across,  noticing  it  only  after  it  had 
landed  on   the  steps  of  the  bathing-place. 


558 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


THE    SACRED    TOWN    OF    MANDHATA. 


559 


Later  in  the  day  we  were  taken  across  to  the 
island  and  landed  at  the  southernmost  ghat. 
Here  an  attendant  threw  into  the  river  handfuls 
of  parched  gram,  a  favourite  food  grain,  much 
used  both  for  human  food  and  for  fattening 
animals  for  the  table.  It  is  also  the  staple  food 
for  horses  in  this  country.  In  a  moment  the 
water  was  alive  with  huge  fishes,  mostly  about 
251b.  to  3olb.  in  weight,  which  actually  jostled 
each  other  and  cliurned  up  the  water  into  foam. 
These  are  accustomed  to  be  fed  daily  with  flour 
and  ghee,  gram,  etc.  Fancy  having  a  gram-fed 
fish  for  dinner  !  But  fishing  at  this  ghat  is 
prohibited. 

After     admiriiiir    the    innumerable    voracious 


reached  the  entrance  to  the  palace.  The 
Rajah  was  just  then  away  on  a  visit  to  Ajjain, 
a  town  in  -Scindia's  territory.  As  a  sort  q£ 
symbol  of  his  authority,  however,  a  flower- 
strewn  white  cushion  was  placed  in  the  vesti- 
bule of  the  palace,  with  a  sword  laid  upon  it 
and  flowers  at  the  corners. 

Behind  this  vestibule,  or  entrance  court,  was 
a  small  reception-room,  with  a  brightly-coloured 
carpet.  A  good  view  was  obtainable  from  the 
windows,  but  immediately  beneath  us  were  the 
ugly  roofs  of  the  houses  of  the  town,  which 
were  covered  with  pieces  of  thorn  bushes  to 
make  them  as  uncomfortable  as  possible  for  tiie 
numerous  monkeys — wiiich,  of  course,  no  Hindu 

will  hurt,  at  any 


■iM^^ite'.^ 


/•roni  a  Photo.  I'y\ 


I  llXiKlMS   CkOSSINC;    THE    RIVER   TO    THE   SACRED    ISLANU. 


denizens  of  the  river  we  proceeded  up  the  long 
flight  of  steps,  which  were  flanked  by  small 
shops  and  stalls,  whereat  were  sold  Mahadeos, 
small  idols,  and  rosaries,  as  well  as  grain  and 
other  commodities  likely  either  to  be  required 
as  food  or  to  arouse  the  cupidity  or  tickle  the 
fancy  of  the  pilgrims.  Mahadeos  are  oval 
polished  stones  of  all  sizes,  and  white,  brown,  or 
black  in  colour ;  they  are  found  in  the  Harbada 
River  and  are  worshij)ped  as  symbols  of  Deity. 
One  I  saw  was  valued  at  140  rupees.  It  was 
really  a  small  boulder  polished.  They  are  said 
to  be  found  already  shaped  and  are  sent  to 
Benares  to  be  polished. 

At    last,  after    leaving    the  steps  and  passing 
along    a     narrow,    winding,    flagged     road,    we 


rate  in  a  direct 
manner,  how- 
ever annoying 
and  mischievous 
ihey  may  be. 

The  reception- 
room  of  the 
Rajah's  palace 
was  further 
decorated  with 
various  photo- 
graphs and  pic- 
tures of  mediocre 
merit ;  and  last, 
but  not  least, 
among  the  de- 
corations was  a 
somewhat  in- 
congruous tifiin-i 
carrier  hung  in 
a  p  r  o  m  i  n  e  n  t 
position  iin  the 
wall  !  We  learnt 
tliat  the  Rajah 
lias  but  one  wife, 
which  is  unusual, 
and  indicates  an 
advance  on   ordinary   Eastern    notions. 

From  the  palace  we  went  on  a  short  distance 
and  then  mounted  an  accomplished  elei)hant, 
the  survivor  of  two  recently  possessed  by  the 
State.  It  now  proceeded  to  climb  a  steep  hill- 
track  leading  to  the  summit  of  the  island,  where 
we  found  a  high  temple  raised  over  a  //V/tTi  or 
sacred  monolith.  This  I  found  to  be  black  and 
polished  with  the  reverential  handling  of  millions 
of  pilgrims  for  generations  past.  It  is  about 
5ft.  6in.  high  by  4ft.  in  diameter  and  cylindrical 
in  shape.  There  is  a  remarkable  legend  attached 
to  this  monolith.  In  the  old  days  any  person 
standing  before  it  and  repeating  certain  mantras 
would  immediately  see  in  the  polished  surface 
the  figure  of  the  animal  that  his  soul  was  to 


f.S'.  Jaiiisttji. 


56o 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


inhabit  in  his  next  incarnation.  It  is  scarcely 
necessary  to  explain  that  Hindus  believe  in 
metempsychosis,  or  the  transmigration  of  souls. 

When  the  Emperor  Aurangzebe  ruled  over 
this  part  of  the  country  he  paid  a  visit  to 
Mandhata,  and  hearing  of  the  legend  he 
decided  to  test  it.  Therefore,  taking  his  stand 
before  the  ling,  he  repeated  the  spell  which  the 
Brahmins  dictated. 

The  result  was  as  unexpected  as  it  was  unpleas- 
ing  to  the  Mohammedan  Emperor,  for  the  form 
tl)at  reflected  itself  to  his  astonished  and  indig- 
nant gaze  was  that  of  the  vile  and  execrated 
[)ig.     Not  unnaturally  he  concluded    that    this 


Outside  the  lifig  temple  was  the  recumbent 
figure  of  a  large  Brahminy  bull  which  had  lost 
its  nose.  We  now  found  that  this  temple  was 
the  objective  of  the  almost  vertical  flight  of 
steps  which  we  had  noticed  on  the  hill-side  in 
the  morning.  We  had  to  go  down  these  steps 
now,  and  I  counted  280  of  them — quite  enough 
to  make  one's  legs  feel  shaky  before  one  reached 
the  bottom.  The  road  leads  from  these  steps 
to  both  of  the  landing-stages  ;  and  we  went 
back  across  the  river  very  well  pleased  with  our 
afternoon's  outing. 

From  the  river  we  got  a  good  view  of  the 
palace  of  the  Maharajah  Holkar  of  Indore,  on 


llll-.    I  l.A  IIIOI  1().M1-,1,    IjijAls    L 


I  HI-.     TIIMUSA.NDS    Ol-'    l-II. 

hrotn  a  Photo,  by  S.  Jamsctji. 


CJUIMS     TO    THK    ISLAND    AKE    OFTEN     DANGEROUSLY    OVEKCRUWDED. 


was  due  to  a  Brahmin  trick,  and  the  last  state 
of  the  unhappy  priests  was  considerably  worse 
than  the  first.  Moreover,  every  idol  in  Mand- 
hata exhibits  some  proof  of  the  Emperor's  icono- 
clastic fury  in  the  shape  of  mutilated  heads, 
limbs,  or  trunks  !  And  what  a  place  for  idols 
It  IS  !  They  meet  you  at  every  turn— set  in 
niches  in  every  wall ;  standing  in  tiny  shrines; 
alongside  the  roads  ;  and  on  the  steps  of  the 
ghats.  It  was  a  hopeless  task  to  attempt  to 
count  them. 


the  mainland,  and  also  a  glimpse  of  other 
large  private  houses,  built  and  maintained  by 
various  rich  Hindu  visitors,  for  their  own  or 
their  friends'  occupation  when  on  pilgrimage. 
There  is  also  a  range  of  almshouses  supported 
by  Holkar. 

After  a  good  dinner,  consisting  mainly  of 
that  unfailing  stand-by,  Indian  moorghee,  or 
fowl,  eked  out  with  various  tinned  delicacies,  we 
turned  in,  having  arranged  for  an  early  start  on 
a  trij)  up  the  river  next  morning. 


^^mm 


Ihe  Mystery  OF 


A  story  of  the  pioneer  days  in  Montana.     Day  by  day  the  miners'  precious  hoards  of  gold-dust 

and    nuggets  disappeared,  and  no  clue  could    be    found    pointing    to   the    identity  of    the    thief. 

Finally  a  series  of  strange  happenings  led    to  a   most   starthng  discovery. 


EARLY  the  half  of  a  century  ago, 
when  the  State  of  Montana  was  little 
more  than  a  howling  wilderness, 
Frank  Lapier,  who  narrated  the 
following  story  to  me,  drove  a  stage 

between   Helena  and   Deer  Lodge.      His  route 

lay  over  the  great  Continental   Divide,  which  is 

formed    by   the  Rocky  Mountains  as  they  pass 

through     Lewis    and    Clarke, 

Silver  Bow,  and  Deer  Lodge 

counties.       Then    for   a    few 

years    he    "  freighted  "  —  by 

which   I  mean  that  he  hauled 

merchandise      on      waggons. 

His    freight    route    extended 

from  Corinne,  in  Utah,  to  the 

mining    camps    in    the    then 

territory  of  Montana. 

While     these     occupations 

would   keep   most   men  com- 
fortably   employed,      Lapier, 

nevertheless,  devoted  a  great 

deal  of  his  time  at  this  period 

to  placer  miiung,   notably  in 

the  Silver  Bow  Valley,  through 

which    both     his     stage    and 

freight    routes    passed.     This 

brief  biography  is  given  for  the 

purpose  of  letting  the  reader 

know  what  sort  of  man  it  was 

who  related  the  following  story. 

Vol.  xi.-71. 


MK.    FRANK    I.Al'IFK,  WHO    K 

h'ro)n  a  J'/to(o.]    thk  aut 


There  was  a  long  line  of  "diggings  "in  the 
early  sixties  on  the  western  slope  of  the  Rockies, 
scattered  every  few  rods  from  the  locality  where 
the  city  of  Butte  stands  to-day,  down  through 
the  Silver  Bow  Canyon,  and  all  the  way  to  the 
old  Deer  Lodge  Stage  Station,  while  laterally  it 
extended  from  the  Silver  Lake  over  the  Divide 
into  the  Prickly  Pear  district.  It  was  all  wilder- 
ness save  for  the  camps  of  the 
'^■■■^■■l  miners  and  the  embryo  settle- 
^^^^^^^^^B  ments  which  later  became 
felV  ^i^H  <^^>'^>€^  ^'^d  towns. 
1^  lB  Most     placer     miners     in 

^^  those  days  worked  in  pairs — 
"  me  and  my  pard  " — botii  for 
the  purpose  of  staving  off 
lonesomeness  and  for  econo- 
mic reasons.  There  were  no 
dance-halls  to  drop  into  of  an 
evening,  when  the  day's 
"  clean-up  "  was  over,  as  at 
present.  In  fact,  as  a  rule, 
there  was  nothing  whatever  of 
a  diverting  nature  to  help  the 
miners  pass  the  long  hours 
before  bedtime.  The  sun 
being  down  and  the  frugal 
evening  meal  disposed  of  the 
men  had  nothing  left  to  do 
but  gather  in  little  groups,  or 
in  couples,  about  their  camp- 


ELATED    THE   S10RV    TO 

HOR.  [by  Hawes. 


562 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZIN^T 


fires  —  probably    in 
some  sheltered  moun- 
tain ioulet\  or  under  the  protecting 
canyon    wall — there    to  conjure  up 
visions   of    distant    loved    ones    or 
gloat    over   their     steadily    growing 
yellow  hoards.      In  |)Iace  of  concerts  they  were 
forced  to  find  entertainment,  if  they  wanted  it, 
in    the    howling    of   timber-wolves    or    skulking 
and  cowardly  coyotes. 

.SatL-d  with  this  species  of  harmony  they 
stretched  themselves  out  on  the  hard  floors  of 
the  canyons,  gathered  their  blankets  about  them, 
gazed  dreamily  awhile  up  at  the  broad  canopy 
of  heaven,  and  finally  fell  asleep.  The  next 
day,  and  the  next,  and  for  many  succeeding 
days,  they  did  the  same  thing  over  again. 
I'vVcnlually  they  found  themselves  sufficiently 
rich  ;  or  they  got  discouraged  and  left ;  or  they 
stampeded  on  some  rumoured  big  strike  ;  or 
possibly  an  Indian  came  along  and  scalped 
them,  or  they  died  in  some  other  way.  This 
was  the  [)la(:er  miner's  routine  existence.  It 
was  I'rank  L;i pier's  life  for  years,  when  not 
engaged  in  guiding  the  destiny  of  the  Deer 
Lodge  stage  or  in  hauling  freight  over  the 
th()us;uul-mile  route. 

While,  as  a  general  thing,  only  a  man  and  his 
partner  worked  together,  there  was  always  a 
strong  undertow  of  mutual  protection— a  feeling 
of  fellowship- the  sentiment  which  developed 
mto  the  present-day  "unions."  All  miners  in 
any  one  district  considered  themselves  as  bound 
together  in  honour  to  look  after  the  general 
interests,  a  solid  rank  against  any  possible 
common  foe. 

Sn  it  came  about  thnt  when,  along  in  the  fall 


I"HKKF,    WAS    NlirHlNC.    l.F.I-T    TO    1X1    HUT    tiAI'HEK    IN 
I  ITTI.K   GkOUPS    ABOUT   THEIR   CAMF-FIRES." 


of  1868,  a 
number  of  "  me 
and  my  pards  " 
began  to  report 
mysterious 
losses,  which 
indicated  that 
systematic  rob- 
beries were 
t)eing  carried 
on  in  the  dis- 
trict, each  miner 
felt  called  upon, 
whether  he  had 
been  himself 
"touched"  thus 
far  or  not,  to 
contribute  what 
detective  ability 
he  possessed  in 
an  effort  to 
locate  the  thief. 
The  property 
which  was  being 
stolen  was  in 
each  case  gold- 
dust  and  nug- 
gets,  even 
United  States  currency  having  been  tossed  aside 
on  one  occasion.  The  thieves,  in  their  way, 
were  evidently  specialists. 

When  the  miners  had  become  convinced  that 
the  several  mysterious  losses  in  the  five  days  last 
past  were  not  mere  coincidences,  the  first  thing 
they  did  was  to  appoint  a  committee.  The 
duty  of  this  committee  was  to  safeguard  the 
district  from  further  depredations,  and  inci- 
dentally, if  they  found  it  possible,  to  search  out 
the  reprobates  who  had  been  plundering  then- 
camp-mates.  After  which,  of  course,  there 
would  straightway  follow  a  brief  but  exciting 
exhibition  of  frontier  justice.  There  were  some 
twenty-five  miners  in  the  Silver  Bow  district  at 
this  time — twenty-five  men  and  one  "Chinee," 
by  name  Sin  Looey,  who  conducted  a  small 
wash-house  near  the  mouth  of  the  canyon.  He 
did  not  count  as  a  "  man  "  among  the  placer 
miners,  but  simply  as  "one  Chinee." 

In  the  ranks  of  the  miners  themselves  there 
was  an  individual  by  the  name  of  Walsh,  a  big, 
raw-boned  Irish-Ainerican,  who  stood  six  foot 
three  in  his  stockinged  feet.  A  certain  pushful- 
ness  possessed  by  Walsh  had  enabled  him  thus 
far  to  put  himself  to  the  fore, in  all  the  more 
important  events  throughout  the  diggings,  and 
this  same  self-assertiveness  had  led  gradually  to 
his  coming  to  be  regarded  by  the  other  men  as 
a  sort  of  leader.  He  was  especially  prominent 
in  any  event  which  had  to  do  with   the  general 


THE    MYSTERY    OF    SILVER    BOW     VALLEY. 


563 


interest  of  the  community,  as,  for  instance,  this 
mysterious  series  of  gold  "  liftings."  And  so 
it  logically  came  about,  when  the  vigilance 
committee  was  named,  that  "  Rick  "  \Valsh  was 
unanimously  chosen  to  act  as  "  captain  " — a 
position  in  pioneer  times  requiring  unique 
qualifications. 

Additional  weight  was  lent  to  Walsh's  claim 
for  this  honour,  if  any  extra  weight  were  needed, 
in  that  he,  according  to  his  own  account,  was  up 
to  the  time  of  his  selection  the  heaviest  single 
loser  by  the  depredations  of  the  unknown  thief 

"  Rick  "  Walsh  had  come  to  the  diggings  six 
months  prior  to  the  time  of  which  I  speak,  he 
being  then  on  his  way  overland  to  the  California 
gold-fields,  having  left  the  northern  part  of 
Indiana  five  weeks  earlier.  Of  this  State  he 
claimed  to  be  a  naturalized  citizen — in  fact,  he 
stated  that  he  had  been  a  county  sheriff  in  one 
of  the  northern  counties  for  two  full  terms, 
which  was  even  further  proof  of  his  fitness  to 
head  the  vigilance  committee. 

He  had  liked  the  "  lay-out  "  in  the  Silver  Bow, 
and  had  given  over  his  idea  of  going  farther 
west,  and  remained  among  the  Montana  placer 
miners  ever  since.  That  was  the  sum-total  of 
the  knowledge  of  this  man  possessed  by  his 
companions.  But  even  that  scant  history  was 
more  embracing  than  the  known  biography  of 
one  another  which  was  generally  extant  among 
roving  frontier  adventurers  and  itinerant  placer 
miners  of  the  pioneer  days. 

Nobody  knew  much  of  anyone  else,  and 
nobody  cared. 

Well,  it  happened  that  the  very  first  night 
upon  which  the  Vigilantes  came  into  existence 
Lapier  himself  had  his  entire  two-months' 
"clean-u[)  "  stolen  —  something  more  than  eleven 
hundred  dollars  in  dust  and  nuggets,  and  in- 
cluding one  single  nugget  which  had  assayed 
at  four  hundred  and  eighty-seven  dollars.  All 
this  gold  had  been  buried  in  an  earthen  crock 
under  three  feet  of  solid  earth,  beneath  the  floor 
of  a  little  log  "lean-to"^  in  which  he  and  his 
partner,  Tom  Benedict,  slept  in  stormy  weather. 

When  Lapier's  stroke  of  hard  luck  had  been 
noised  about,  after  what  had  previously  hap- 
pened, there  were  some  very  grim  visages  among 
the  Silver  Bow  diggers,  which  foretold  a  short 
shrift  for  the  first  guilty  wretch  unfortunate 
enough  to  be  caught  at  his  nefarious  work. 
The  watchfulness  of  the  Vigilantes  was  forth- 
with redoubled,  and  steps  taken  which  made  an 
open  book  of  the  daily  life  of  each  individual 
who  had  any  right  whatever  to  be  about  the 
locality.  Each  moment  of  each  man's  time  was 
checked  off  relentlessly  ;  strangers  were  hauled 
up  short,  made  to  give  an  account  of  their 
business   or  a  reason  for  their  presence  in  the 


diggings,  and  then  either  escorted  outside  an 
established  picket  line  or  kept  under  close 
surveillance  if  allowed  to  remain. 

In  short,  nothing  was  left  undone  by  the 
Vigilantes  which  could  tend  to  hamper  the 
further  movements  of  the  gold-stealers.  It 
certainly  looked  as  though  all  further  successful 
work  on  the  part  of  the  thieves  would  be  an 
absolute  impossibility. 

Yet,  despite  all  this,  during  the  seven 
days  which  followed  Lapier's  loss  no  fewer 
than  five  additional  cases  were  reported,  in 
which  carefully  secreted  little  canvas  sacks  of 
"  dust  "  had  been  found  missing,  the  jobs  being 
pulled  off  right  under  the  very  eyes  of  the 
dumfounded  and  wrathful  guardians.  Within 
a  single  month  nearly  twenty  thousand  dollars' 
worth  of  gold-dust  had  seemingly  taken  wings 
and  flown  away,  without  the  slightest  trace 
remaining  of  any  human  handiwork  in  con- 
nection with  the  mysterious  occurrences.  Yet 
it  stood  to  reason  that  it  was  not  only  the  work 
of  a  human  thief,  but  necessarily  that  of  some 
individual  in  the  diggings,  who  was  thoroughly 
familiar  with  the  ins  and  outs  of  each  couple's 
"  lay-out  "  ;  one  who  knew  just  where  each  man 
kept  his  gold-dust,  so  that  he  was  able  to  lay  his 
dishonest  hands  upon  it  without  the  slightest 
hesitancy. 

There  had  been  a  method  about  the  thiefs 
or  thieves'  actions,  an  unfailing  accuracy  of 
execution  in  the  long  string  of  "  liftings,"  which 
was  simply  startling.  Who  was  guilty  or,  con- 
versely, who  innocent,  nobody  dared  hazard  a 
guess.  Every  ijian  in  the  district  had  a  vague 
suspicion  of  everybody  ■  else.  "  Pards  "  who 
had  toiled  side  by  side  for  months,  sharing  one 
another's  joys  and  privations,  got  to  imagining 
hitherto  undetected  shiftiness  in  each  other's 
glance  or  some  semblance  of  an  inborn  crooked- 
ness which  had  been  kept  concealed  in  the 
past. 

There  was  no  such  thing  then  as  looking 
up  individual  past  records  in  the  hoi)e  of 
uncovering  some  masquerading  shady  character 
in  their  inidst  of  more  than  ordinary  pro- 
minence. No  man's  personal  history  ante- 
dated his  arrival  in  the  locality.  Only 
the  more  expert  artists  with  their  shooting- 
irons  among  the  miners  ever  felt  authorized  to 
ask  impertinent  leading  questions  of  fresh 
arrivals  ;  and  these  same  dead-shot  individuals 
seldom  considered  that  circumstances  warranted 
the  exercise  of  any  such  authority.  Hence,  any- 
thing to  be  accomplished  in  a  practical  way,  and 
based  solely  upon  individual  rei)utations  in  the 
discovering  and  bringing  to  "  barrel-head  "  trial 
of  the  miscreants,  was  necessarily  restricted  to 
the   character  which  each    man    had    made  for 


5^4 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


himself  within  the  few  months  last  past.  That 
there  was  an  unusually  clever  actor  somewhere 
m  their  midst  admitted  of  no  question.  That 
the  big  Irish  ex-sheriff  would  eventually  land  on 
the  rascal,  however,  no  one  who  saw  the  look  of 
scowlmg  delermmation  on  the  captain's  face  for 
one  moment  doubted. 

Scarcely  a  day  passed  without  its  brief  exciting 
episode.  Sometimes  "Rick"  Walsh  would  go 
galloping  at  a  breakneck  pace  down  the  one 
long  street  of  the  town  and  out  on  to  the  open 
plain,  a  small  posse  of  mounted  and  heavily- 
armed  lieutenants  trailing  a  hundred  yards 
behind  him,  striving  frantically  to  keep  pace  with 
their  mad-riding  leader.  It  was  known  at  such 
times  that  the  captain  was  engaged  in  running 
down  some  fresh  clue  he  had  obtained  concerning 
the  mysterious  gold-robbers  ;  and  the  fact  that 
eachof  these  clues  ended  in  nothing  more  tangible 
than  the  winding  or  crippling  of  the  horses 
counted  as  merely  a  little  more  hard  luck,  to  be 
taken  into  consideration  later  on  when  frontier 
justiceshould  havearopeabout  theculprits'  necks. 

Meanwhile,  gold  hoards,  the  products  of  many 
a  weary  day's  panning,  continued  to  disappear 
with  monotonous  and  heart-breaking  regularity. 
Not  a  few  of  the  gold-seekers  at  length  became 
discouraged,  hopeless  of  ever  amassing  a  "pile  " 
in  the  Silver  Bow  district.  They  pulled  up  the 
stakes  outlining 
their  individual 
claims,  indicating 
thereby  that  any- 
one else  could 
"jump"  them  who 
thought  it  worth 
while,  and  then 
"  lit  out  "  for  more 
I)rofitable  fields. 
If  the  thing  had 
kei)t  up  the  way  it 
was  going,  it  would 
only  have  been  a 
matter  of  weeks 
l)efore  the  dig- 
gings were  desert 
fd.  Some  of  the 
more  ignorant 
miners  saw  the 
handof  his. Satanic 
Majesty  in  the 
ntysterious  occur- 
rences, and  re- 
fused straightway 
lo  fight  or  to  at- 
tempt to  thwart 
the  [)lans  of  any 
such  powerful  op- 
ponent. These  few 


stood  their  losses  philosophically  until  they  could 
no  longer  raise  even  a  "grub-stake"  amongst 
them,  and  then  they,  too,  forsook  the  diggings. 

"  I  wasn't  scared  of  any  devil,"  said  Lapier, 
in  relating  his  experiences.  "  No,  sir,  it  wasn't 
any  bogey  man  according  to  my  way  of  think- 
ing ;  it  was  some  scallywag  right  amongst  our 
own  crowd  who  was  too  lazy  and  unprincipled 
to  get  his  own  stake  honestly.  And  more  than 
that,  it  was  some  fellow  who  was  watching 
everything  done  by  the  Vigilantes  and  more 
than  likely  taking  part  in  every  talk.  His  sure 
way  of  going  about  his  dirty  work  proved  it." 

One  night  a  miner  crawled  on  his  hands  and 
knees  the  greater  part  of  a  mile  to  notify  to 
Walsh  and  his  men  that  someone  was  at  that 
very  instant  trying  to  break  into  his  log  shack, 
where  he  had  gold-dust  secreted,  and  outside  of 
which,  in  accord  with  customary  preference,  he 
had  been  wrapped  in  his  blanket  asleep.  If 
the  boys  would  hustle  themselves,  he  said, 
they  might  catch  the  rascally  gold-stealers  red- 
handed. 

The  "  boys "  needed  no  urging,  however. 
They  were  on  the  backs  of  their  ponies  in  an 
instant.  A  few  rods  away  from  the  shack  they 
all  dismounted  and  spread  out  swiftly  to 
surround  the  robbers.  At  the  proper  moment, 
in  response  to  a  low  whistle  from  Walsh,  they 


m 


W' 


THEV    RUSHED     KORWArU)     AND     CAl'TUREt) — BILL 

wotheusioon'.s   milch-cow  1" 


THE     MYSTERY    OF    SILVER     HOW    VALLEY. 


565 


closed  in,  in  the  darkness,  until  they  were 
drawn  up  in  a  narrow  cordon  about  the 
premises  ;  whereupon,  with  a  loud  shout  and 
the  discharge  of  a  dozen  six-shooters  in  unison, 
they  rushed  forward  and  captured  —  Bill  Wolher- 
spoon's  milch-cow,  which  had  broken  out  of  its 
corral  near  by  ! 

This  ludicrous  incident  made  a  laughing- 
stock of  the  Vigilantes  for  a  time,  naturally 
enough.  But  in  the  exciting  events  which 
were  shortly  to  follow  the  affair  was  soon  lost 
sight  of. 

A  couple  of  afternoons  after  the  cow  episode 
Lapier  and  Walsh  and  two  other  men  came 
together  near  the  head  of  the  gulch,  and  paused 
to  discuss  current  events  after  the  prevailing 
custom.  In  the  course  of  their  talk  each  of 
them  happened  to  make  mention  of  his  recent 
big  "  finds "  in  the  way  of  nuggets.  Among 
others,  Lapier  described  an  azurite 
specimen  rich  in  gold,  an  unusual 
find  outside  of  Africa,  as  they  all 
thought  then  ;  and  each  of  the  other 
men  in  turn  boasted  of  what  he  had 
also  lately  added  to  his  sack. 

By  the  barest  chance,  just  at 
that  instant  Lapier  glanced  in  the 
direction  of  a  clump  of  willows  at 
one  side  of  the  gulch,  and  was  there 
startled  to  see  the  dough-coloured 
face  of  Sin  Looey,  the  "  Chinee,'' 
who  was  peering  eagerly  out  from 
the  brush,  seemingly  engrossed  in 
the  conversation  of  the  white  men. 

Walsh,  having  noticed  Lapier's 
start  of  surprise,  looked  ([uickly 
round  and  discovered  the  China 
boy  also. 

"  Don't  let  on  that  you  see  him, 
Frank,"  said  the  big  man,  quietly, 
and,  suiting  his  own  action  to  the 
words — "  Let's  move  on.  This  has 
given  me  an  idea." 

Lapier  could  see  Walsh  was 
pleased  that  he  had  stumbled  on 
tangible  evidence  at  last  ;  and  the 
look  of  vindictiveness  which  spread 
over  his  face  at  the  thought  showed 
that  things  were  likely  to  go  hard 
with  Sin  Looey. 

After  getting  out  of  ear-shot  of 
the  China  boy  — for  Sin  Looey  was 
only  a  lad — the  four  miners  pro- 
ceeded up  the  canyon,  pretending 
not  even  to  have  noticed  him,  and 
agreeing  among  themselves,  in  the 
excited  talk  which  ensued,  that  Sin 
Looey's  skulking  there  in  the 
willows  and  being  so  eager  to  hear 


their  words  had,  to  put  it  mildly,  a  very 
suspicious  look. 

The  Chinaman  had  been  previously  "investi- 
gated," along  with  the  others,  by  the  committee, 
and  had  always  been  kept  more  or  less  under 
surveillance.  But  he  was  such  a  bland,  half- 
stupid,  but  wholly  honest-appearing  heathen, 
and  such  an  arrant  coward  in  all  matters  re- 
quiring nerve,  that  no  one  had  ever  seriously 
suspected  him  of  being  the  thief. 

Some  time  during  the  ensuing  night  all  four 
of  the  men  forming  the  party  who  had  seen  Sin 
Looey  skulking  claimed  to  have  been  robbed 
of  every  grain  of  gold-dust  they  had  in  their 
sacks  !  In  Lapier's  case  even  the  sack,  a  buck- 
skin affair,  was  missing. 

Early  the  next  morning  Lapier  had  just 
returned  to  his  little  shack  from  a  trip  to  notify 
the  vigilance  committee  of  this  fresh  calamity 


LAFIF.R    INSTANTLY    KECOGNISED   HIS   MISSING   GOLD-FOUCH. 


s66 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


when  he  was  surprised  to  see  the  young  China- 
man coming  from  an  opposite  direction  toward 
him,  holding  some  small  object  hesitatingly  out 
toward  the  white  man,  seemingly  in  doubt  as  to 
what  his  personal  reception  would  be.  In  the 
object  held  in  Sin  Looey's  hand  Lapier  instantly 
recognised  his  missing  gold-pouch. 

"  Allee  same  found  'um  over  by  Lob's  lanch, 
light  on  glound,"  the  boy  remarked,  with  a 
propitiative  air,  and  with  the  usual  turning  of 
his  "r"  letters  into  the  softer  labial. 

"  Rob's  ranch,"  which  Looey  meant,  was  a 
primitive  tin-dipper-and-water-harrel  whisky 
"joint"  up  the  street,  which  used  to  dispense  a 
fiery  brand  of  liquor  to  thirsty  miners. 

Lapier  was  certain,  of  course,  that  the 
"  Chink  "  was  lying  about  the  pouch,  but  at  the 
same  time  it  perplexed  him  to  account  for  tlie 
lad's  returning  the  emj)ty  receptacle. 

"  I  reckon  you  found  'um  all  samee  right 
underneath  the  ground," 
the  white  man  responded, 
grimly.  Then,  catching 
the  China  boy  by  the 
arm,  he  started  toward 
what  in  these  days  would 
be  a  lock-up,  but  which 
was  at  that  time  any 
locality  where  the  captain 
of  the  Vigilantes  might 
be  encountered. 

They  fell  in  with  Walsh 
soon  after,  just  as  the 
latter  was  leaving  Rob's 
place,  where  he  had  ap- 
parently been  fortifying 
himself 

"  The  very   gossoon    I 
wanted   to  clap   my  eyes 
upon  !  "  the  Irishman  ex- 
claimed,   joyfully,    in    his         Froma\ 
deep,   mellifluous  brogue. 

'I'he  frightened  Chinaman  began  to  stutter 
with  terror  when  big  "  Rick  "  Walsh  and  some 
of  the  "  boys  "  seized  hold  of  him  and  began  to 
run  him  at  a  trot  across  the  creek  to  Pulpit 
Rock— which  in  those  days  represented  the 
prisoner's  dock,  witness  stand,  gallows,  and 
justice-room  in  one  of  Silver  Bow— the  entire 
population  of  stern-faced  placer  miners  trailing 
along  behind.  " 

"Prisoner  at  the  bar,  are  ye  guilty  or  are  ye 
not?  You're  a  liar  !  "  Walsh  said  all  in  a  breath, 
as  a  hurried  preliminary  to  the  Chinaman's 
trial. 

Sin  Looey,  limp  as  a  rag,  frightened  com- 
pletely out  of  all  ability  to  utter  an  intelligible 
word  m  his  own  defence— though  he  glanced 
piteously    nito    the    stern    faces    of    his    rou^rh 


judges — was  then  rushed,  according  to  frontier 
law,  through  the  rude  mockery  of  a  trial. 

Of  course,  the  miserable  wretch's  fate  had 
been  sealed  the  moment  he  was  thrown  in  a 
huddled  heap  u[)on  the  fatal  "  pulpit,"  a  doom 
which  the  rough  onlookers  awaited  with  a  desire  to 
see  the  "  sneaking  yellow  thief"  get  his  deserts. 

The  regulation  sentence  had  been  pronounced 
by  the  self  constituted  judge,  jury,  and  prosecut- 
ing attorney  in  one — Walsh,  who  claimed  to  be 
all  of  these  things  ex-officio — when  an  extra- 
ordinary and  unlooked-for  event  happened. 

A  storm  had  been  threatening  throughout  the 
morning,  and  suddenly,  with  a  terrific  clap  of 
thunder,  which  is  nowhere  so  awesome,  so 
crashing  in  volume,  as  it  is  in  these  black 
canyons  of  the  Rockies,  the  tempest  broke. 
Tnstantancously,  as  the  thunder-clap  resounded, 
I'ulpif  Rock,  a  solid,  thousand-ton  mass,  which 
had   withstood    the    fierce    mountain    storms   of 


PULFIT    UOCK    AS    IT    IS     lu-DAY. 


[Photo. 


countless  ages  of  time,  began  to  creak  and 
groan  dismally,  then  shivered  perceptibly 
throughout  its  great  bulk,  and  finally,  with  a 
crash  which  shook  the  solid  earth,  toppled 
and  fell  to  the  floor  of  the  canyon,  hurling  its 
human  occupants  a  sheer  thirty  feet  out  into  the 
valley  beneath — white  men  and  prisoner  all 
tangled  together  in  a  confused  and  struggling 
heap.  The  Chinaman's  blue  cotton-clad  legs, 
topped  with  their  ungainly  wooden  "  boats, ' 
protruded  from  the  centre  of  the  human  mass, 
culling  frantic  circles  in  the  air. 

Although    considerably   bruised  and   shaken, 
no  one  was  seriously  injured.     Had  the  affair 

The  above  photograph  shows  "Pulpit  Rock"  as  it  is  to-day, 
the  mountain-side  from  which  it  fell  being  seen  to  the  left. 
The  driving  of  a  railway  through  the  canyon  has  considerably 
altered  the  appearance  of  the  locality.— Ed. 


THE    MYSTERY    OF    SILVER    BOW    VALLEY 


i'ULl'lT    K'jCK    TOI'I'LED   AND    FELL. 


been  less  uncanny,  had  it  been  then  attributed 
to  natural  causes,  as  it  was  later  on,  being 
traced  back  to  a  long  series  of  landslides, 
similar  to  the  recent  terrible  happening  at 
Frank,  N.W.T.,  it  would  have  had  a  ludicrous 
aspect  in  place  of  the  awesome  fear  with  which 
it  was  regarded  by  the  superstitious  miners. 

The  first  man  to  recover  from  the  shock  was 
Walsh,  fearful  that  his  prisoner  would  take 
advantage  of  th.e  excitement  to  get  away.  But 
his  fears  proved  groundless,  as  would  have 
occurred  to  a  man  less  eager  for  bloodshed,  the 
China  boy  being  completely  unnerved  by  his 
recent  experiences,  and  by  this  time  half  dead 
with  fright. 

Now,  none  of  the  Silver  Bow  diggers  were 
men  who  could  be  easily  scared,  and  they 
regarded  a  camp-thief  as  cowboys  look  upon  a 
"rustler" — there  is  but  one  fitting  end  for 
either.  All  the  same,  when  Providence  had 
palpably  interposed  between  them  and  their 
victim,  as  here  seemed  to  be  the  case,  they 
could  proceed  no  fuitlier.      Maybe  the  accident 


was  a  sign  that  Sin  Looey  was  innocent.  Any 
way,  come  to  think  ol  it,  they  had  mighty  slim 
evidence  against  the  Chinaman.  Barring  his 
being  found  with  an  empty  gold-sack,  and  the 
arguments  of  big  "  Rick  "  Walsh,  they  had 
slight  proof  of  his  guilt. 

I'his  sort  of  talk  made  the  captain  of  the 
Vigilantes  cross.  The  men  couldn't  see  for  the 
life  of  them  what  made  hiiu  so  especially  vindic- 
tive and  anxious  to  go  on  with  the  business 
after  all  that  had  happened,  even  if  the  victim 
zvas  a  Chinaman. 

"  Lend  me  a  gun,"  cried  \\'alsh,  who  had  lost 
his  own  weapon  in  the  landslip,  "  and  Fll  shoot 
the  man  myself.  'Tis  a  pack  of  old  women  the 
whole  lot  of  you  are." 

But  no  gun  was  forthcoming.  Instead,  a 
stalwart  New  Englander  among  the  crowd  of 
miners  warned  the  irate  Irishman  that  he  would 
have  to  fight  the  white  men  first  if  he  persisted 
in  his  attack  on  the  Chinaman. 

"This  session  of  court  stands  adjourned," 
said  the  Yankee,  "  by  a  /unanimous  vote,  and  it 


;68 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


isn't   safe    for    any    man    to    monkey   with    its 
judgment." 

Walsh  being  thus  baffled,  and  the  China  boy 
taken  under  Lapier's  own  personal  protection, 
the  Irishman  went  back  over  the  creek  to  his 
own  camp,  muttering  threats  against  the  whole 
bunch  of  miners.  Lapier  was  much  puzzled 
to  account  for  his  being  so  persistent  when  the 
rest  of  the  crowd  had  cried  "  halt." 

We  now  come  to  the  closing  chapter  of  the 
mystery.       During    the    succeeding    few    days 
Walsh    tried   twice   to  lay    vioKiit    hands    upon 
Sin  Looey,  but  without 
success. 

The  fourth  night  aftei 
the  mysterious  fall  o 
the  big  rock  was 
a  very  stormy 
one.  About 
two  o'clock  in 
the  morning, 
Lapier,  lying 
asleep  in  his 
bunk,  against 
the  inside  wall 
of  his  shack, 
was  pretty  nearly 
scared  out  of  his  ■ 

wits  by  the  loud 
explosion  of  a 
six  shooter  not 
ten  feet  from  his 
head.  Springing 
out  of  the  bunk 
at  a  single 
bound,  and 
lighting  a  torch 
which  projected  from 
the  wall,  he  beheld  Sin 
Looey  standing  in  the 
f)[jen  door  of  the  knn- 
to  at  one  end  of  the 
primitive  little  shelter,  grasp- 
ing a  still  smoking  revolver, 
and  peering  fixedly  out  into 
the  stormy  night,  'i'he  China 
boy,  being,  as  I  have  said, 
now  under  I^apier's  special 
protection,  had  a  short  lime 
before  been  curled  up  asleep  in  his  blanket  on 
the  floor  of  the  shack.  Outside,  someone  was 
groannig  loudly  as  if  in  terrible  pain. 

"What's  the  rumpus.  Looey?"  cried  Lapier. 
"  Who  have  you  been  shooting?" 

The  China  lad  excitedly  gesticulated  in  an 
endeavour  to  make  Lapier  understand  his 
voluble  "  pidgin  "  lingo. 

"  Ilishman,"  he  said,  "come  deeping,  deep- 
ing 'long.  Slick  hand  light  on  my  face.     I  shoot 


A    DIG    UOULDEK    HAD    PALI. EN    ON    HIM 
DOWN    HELl'LESSLV." 


'um,  then  Ilishman  yell,  fall  on  back,  then  Ilish- 
man  "      And   Looey  would  have   kept    on 

indefinitely  had  not  Lapier  seized  the  torch  and 
rushed  out  of  doors  the  instant  he  understood 
the  state  of  affairs. 

It  was  the  Irishman — Walsh.  The  China 
boy's  bullet  had  caught  him  in  the  muscles  of 
the  right  shoulder,  where  it  had  inflicted  a  very 
painful  but,  as  it  proved,  a  trifling  wound. 
Looey  and  Lapier  got  the  big  Irishman  securely 
bound,  intending  to  take  him  over  to  Helena 
the  following  day  to  have  him  placed  in  gaol. 
But  he  got  away  somehow  in  the  night. 

However,  he  escajjed  one  fate  only  to  fall  a 
victim     to    another    far    worse.       A    party  of 
prospectors  came  across  the  body  of  the  ex- 
Vigilante  captain  a  few  days  after  his  escape, 
almost  at  the  very  top  of 
Mount    Haggin.      He  had 
trying    to   cross    the 
peak  on  his  way 
down  into  Idaho 
or   Utah,    when 
a  big  loose  boul- 
der,   which    he 
had    in    some 
manner  started, 
had     fallen     on 
him,    pinning 
him  down  help- 
lessly    by     the 
legs.    So  he  had 
died. 

On  Walsh's 
body  was  found 
the  identical 
azurite  gold 
nugget  stolen 
from  Lapier.  If 
there  had  been 
any  doubt  be- 
fore as  to  who 
was  the  gold- 
thief,  this  dis- 
covery settled  it. 
Just  how  he 
succeeded  in 
working  his 
scheme,  or 
whether  he  had  helpers,  was  never  learned.  It  is 
probable,  however,  that  some  of  the  Vigilantes 
were  in  league  with  him,  and  that — under  pretence 
of  protecting  them— miners  were  systematically 
"pumi)ed  "  as  to  where  they  secreted  their  hoards. 
Lapier,  now  a  grey-haired  old  man,  is  pre- 
pared to  stake  his  last  dollar  that  the  "  Chinee  ' 
Looey  was  no  thief  He  lived  in  Lapier's  family 
for  fourteen  years  after  the  death  of  Walsh  and 
then  went  back  to  China  a  wealthy  aristocrat. 


I'fNNlNt;    HIM 


j^mong  The  South  Ssa  Cannibals. 

By  Captain  H.  Cayley  Webster,  F.Z.S. 

II. 

The    author   has    recently  returned   from  a  seven  years'  sojourn  among  the  fierce    man-eating  and 

head-hunting  tribes  of   the  South    Sea  Islands.      Captain  Webster's  narrative  makes  most  thrilling 

reading,  and  he  illustrates  it  with  a  number  of  excellent  photographs. 


N  my  way  to  New  Britain  I  passed 
through  the  China  Straits,  which  are 
situated  at  the  extreme  south  end  of 
New  Guinea,  and  separated  from  it 
by  the  Island  of  Sariba.  These 
straits  were  named  by  Captain  Moresby,  R.N., 
who,  in  1873,  discovert^d  them  to  be  the  most 
direct  route  from  Australia  to  China.  Up  to 
the  present  time,  however,  the  passage  has  not 
been  utilized  in  this  way. 

We  sailed  through  the  Trobriands,  a  vast 
number  of  low,  thickly-wooded  islands,  entirely 
covered  with  prolific  undergrowth  and  the  ever- 
lasting cocoa  palm.  They  are  densely  populated, 
and  the  natives  surrounded  us  in  their  exquisitely 
carved  and  beautifully  designed  canoes,  offering 
all  kinds  of  unique  ornaments  and  eager  in  their 
desire  to  trade.  Their 
hair  is  worn  hanging  in 
ringlets  over  their  shoulders, 
and  they  appeared  to  be  a 
far  finer  race  of  people  than 
the    Papuans  of   the    main- 


land. 


Passing 


the   islands 


'<^ 


h' 


> 


of  the  d'Entrecastreaux  Group,  we  entered  St. 
George's  Channel,  which  divides  New  Britain 
from  New  Ireland,  and  after  a  week's  toil,  beating 
against  adverse  winds  and  strong  currents,  arrived 
at  the  only  white  settlement  in  New  Britain. 

As  we  rounded  the  northern  end  of  the  straits 
at  the  entrance  to  Blanch  Bay  we  perceived  a 
few  houses  on  the  left  shore,  and  some  others 
a  mile  or  two  down  the  bay.  On  our  right 
there  rose  out  of  the  sea  a  magnificent  moun- 
tain, from  the  summit  of  which  we  could  see 
smoke  rising  steadily  into  the  cloudless  sky, 
while  an   occasional   spurt   of  flame,    belching 

high  in  the  air,  pro- 
claimed it  to  be  one  of 
the  active  volcanoes  of 
New  Britain. 


;g<B£y 


ONE   OF    THE   ACTIVE 

VOLCANOES     OF     NEW 

BRITAIN. 

From  a  Photo. 


Vol.  xi.— 72. 


57° 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


We  dropped  anchor  opposite  Ralum,  a 
valuable  plantation  owned  by  a  half-caste 
Sanioan  lady.  This  is  considered  to  be  the 
richest  and  most  extensive  in  the  whole  of  the 
South  Pacific.  One  of  the  first  persons  to 
pay  me  a  visit  was  a  young  native  girl,  who 
stood  on  the  beach  and  watched  our  doings 
with  pathetic  interest  as  the  yacht  was  brought 
to  her  moorings.  When,  half  an  hour  after- 
wards, I  landed,  she  begged  very  hard  of  me  to 
buy  the  variety  of  goods  she  carried  in  a 
native  plaited  basket  slung  on  her  back 
and  suspended  by  fibres  across  her  head.  So 
great  was  the  weight  she  hnd  been  made  to 
carry  in  this  way  since  childhood  that  there 
was  a  deep  indentation 
in  the  forefront  of  her 
head.     On   examination 


that  the  water  commenced  to  get  warm.  The 
nearer  we  approached  to  the  foot  of  the  volcano 
the  hotter  it  became,  until  at  last  I  could  not 
bear  to  dip  my  hand  in  it.  It  occurred  to  me 
that  this  would  be  a  capital  place  to  bathe — a 
natural  open-air  warm  bath — and  therefore  I 
made  my  natives  build  me  a  small  landing- 
stage.  From  this  I  enjoyed  many  a  dip  in  the 
bubbling  warm  water.  Still  farther  up  the  inlet 
I  saw  steam  bubbling  up  in  all  directions  owing 
to  the  terrific  volcanic  disturbance  going  on 
below  the  surface.  The  heat  here  proved  so 
great  that  the  paint  on  my  boat  began  to  blister 
and  I  was  glad  to  get  back  to  the  cooler  parts 
again.  The  photo,  here  reproduced  shows  my 
bathing-place  in  this  curious  hot-water  inlet. 


i 


/■'roil/ a]  THE   AUTHOk's    bathing-place    IN    THE    CURIOUS    HOT-WATER    INI.ET. 


\Photo. 


I  found  the  basket  contained  a  pig,  a  dog,  and 
a  kirge  cjuantity  of  yams,  taros,  and  betel-nut. 
On  the  top  of  all  was  a  huge  bunch  of  bananas, 
cut  with  the  stalk  from  the  tree,  and  weighing 
alone  over  forty  pounds.  Besides  all  this  the 
p(jor  girl  carried  an  infant,  who  was  in  mortal 
terror  of  me  from  the  time  I  first  made  my 
appearance  until  I  had  relieved  the  mother  of 
all  her  marketable  goods  and  sent  her  off 
rejoicing  with  a  few  yards  of  turkey-red,  a  piece 
of  which  she  promptly  wrapped  round  her  body. 
In  tlie  cool  of  the  evening  I  took  the  gig  and 
rowed  up  an  inviting-looking  inlet  beneath  the 
shadow  of  the  great  volcano.  After  navigating 
this  arm  of  the  bay  for  a  mile  or  two  I  noticed 


The  day  after  my  arrival  at  Blanch  Bay  1 
took  a  small  force  of  my  men,  well  armed,  and 
made  an  expedition  into  the  exterior  to  pay  a 
visit  to  a  chief  who  was  reputed  to  have  an 
enormous  family  and  much  worldly  wealth. 
We  had  a  weary  tramp  of  some  hours  through 
heavy  undergrowth,  descending  at  one  moment 
to  the  very  depths  of  a  precipitous  ravine,  only 
to  be  confronted  immediately  afterwards  by  the 
face  of  an  almost  insurmountable  mountain. 
During  this  fatiguing  march  I  was  jomed  by 
numerous  natives  from  surrounding  villages, 
men,  women,  and  children,  all  perfectly  nude, 
and  curious  to  behold  the  daring  stranger  who 
had   committed   himself  so   rashly   as   to   make 


AMONG    THE    SOUTH    SEA    CANNIBALS. 


571 


a  journey  into  the  hitherto  unknown  interior  of 
tlieir  country.  At  last,  pleasantly  situated 
beneath  numerous  surrounding  cocoanut  palms, 
we  came  upon  the  curiously  built  houses  of  the 
village  I  had  come  to  see,  and  by  the  shouts  of 
the  people,  who  darted  hither  and  thither  among 
the  crotons  and  huts,  I  could  tell  how  excited 
they  were  at  this  unexpected  visit.  A- photo- 
graph of  this  village  is  here  reproduced,  and  my 
readers  will  notice  the  significant  collection  of 
skulls  in  the  foreground  to  the  right. 


along  the  beams  inside,  I  perceived  several 
.  curious  coils  beautifully  laced  with  rattan  and 
resembling  in  appearance  a  number  of  life- 
buoys. Each  of  these  coils,  I  learned,  con- 
tained two  hundred  and  fifty  fathoms  of  minute 
shell  money  threaded  on  the  finest  bamboo 
cane  and  called  "  dewarra."  A  fathom  of  this 
shell  money  is  worth  two  shillings  in  English 
coin  to  all  the  traders  in  the  South  Seas,  for 
with  it  they  can  purchase  copra  (dried  cocoanut 
used  for  making  oil),  tortoiseshell,  and  all  other 


The  chief  himself,  an  old  man  with  white 
hair  and  beard,  was  not  long  in  presenting  him- 
self, followed  immediately  by  his  numerous 
wives  and  children,  numbering  nearly  fifty  in 
all.  He  tried  to  make  me  believe  that  everyone 
around  him  was  either  his  wife  or  his  child.  I 
made  this  much-married  gentleman  a  present  of 
a  flannel  shirt  and  some  white  calico,  which  he 
immediately  donned,  to  the  huge  amusement  of 
his  numerous  family.  When  I  set  up  my  camera 
to  photograph  the  group  they  gazed  in  great 
wonderment  at  the  strange  box  and  laughed 
immoderately  at  the  black  cloth  I  placed  over 
it,  saying  how  foolish  I  was  to  clothe  the  box 
when  they  themselves  had  nothing  with  which 
to  cover  their  bodies.  By  means  of  unmistak- 
able signs  they  let  me  know  how  very  mad  they 
considered  me. 

After  the  ordeal  by  camera  the  chief  took 
me  into  his   "  tambu "   house,  where,   hanging 


articles  of  trade.  Each  of  these  coils,  therefore, 
was  worth  about  twenty-five  pounds,  and  by  the 
numbers  the  chief  possessed  I  calculated  that 
he  was  worth  at  least  ten  thousand  pounds.  A 
photograph  of  this  chief  and  his  family  is  given 
at  the  top  of  the  following  page,  and  shows  him 
wearing  the  shirt  I  gave  him. 

He  showed  me  some  slaves  which  he  was 
"  fattening  for  table  "  as  it  were,  and  a  moment 
afterwards  asked  if  I  would  stay  and  have  some 
food  with  him.  His  meaning  was  unmistakable, 
so  I  hurriedly  begged  to  be  excused.  After 
partaking  of  a  few  bananas— these  at  least  I 
knew  to  be  safe  eating— I  hastened  my  de- 
parture, lest  this  old  ogre  might  suddenly  take  it 
into  his  head  to  sample  me  or  one  of  my  men 
as  a  new  dish. 

Every  other  day  it  was  the  custom  for  the 
natives  to  gather  together  at  a  certain  spot  near 
the  beach  wherg  we  lay  at  anchor  and  hold  a 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


market,  exchang- 
i  n  g   amongst 

themselves  various   articles   of  commerce   and 

food,    and   selling   taros   and    bananas    to    the 

Blanch  Bay  people. 

At    these    markets 


I  purchased  very 
many  curious  trea- 
sures, giving  in 
exchange  pipes, 
tobacco,  and  calico, 
or  turkey-red.  My 
next  photograph 
shows  a  typical 
native  market  in 
full  swing,  and 
gives  some  idea  of 
the  scene  of  bustle 
and  animation 
which  [)revails. 

Whilst  attending 
one  of  these 
markets  I  saw  a 
most  repulsive- 
looking  man,  and 
was  told  he  was  one 
ot  the  wealthiest 
chiefs  of  the  in- 
terior—a man  who 
ke[)t  many  slaves 
and  was  in  the 
habit    of   killing 


and  eating  one  every  few  days,  being  one  of  the 
most  ferocious  cannibals  in  that  part  of  the 
country.  I  took  the  opportunity  of  securing  a 
photograph    of   this    amiable    personage.       His 


A    NATIVE   MARKET    IN    FULL    SWING. 


\_Fhoto. 


AMONG    THE    SOUTH    SEA    CA.W  HlAl.S. 


573 


/    This  startling 
of    the 


A    CANNIRAL    DANDY- 


U[)per  lip  was  slit  and  either  half  sewn 
into    his    nostrils.       This  "ornamenta- 
tion," he  told   me,  added  considerably 
to     his     beauty    according     to 
native  ideas.     He  was  evidently 
extremely    careful    of    his    per 
sonal  appearance, 
and    one    might 
almost  have  thought 
he  had   visited   civi- 
lization—  for  he  pow- 
dered his  face  !    Not 
being    able    to    pro- 
cure  anything  finer, 
however,   this  canni- 
bal   dandy    used 
lime 

accessory 
toilet  will  be  seen 
liberally  bedaubed 
over  his  face  and 
beard  in  the  accom- 
panying snap-shot. 

One  day  1  heard 
there   was    to    be   a 
great     native     feast 
and  dance   a   few  miles 
in  the  forest,  and,  as  I 
received  a  special  invi- 
tation from  the  chief  at 
whose  village  the  enter- 
tainment was  to  be  held, 
I  elected  to  go. 

This  chief,  whose 
photograph  is  next  re- 
produced, was  a  man  of 
enormous  stature,  stand- 
ing six  feet  eleven  in 
height,  with  a  fantastic 
headgear  of  feathers, 
which  added  consider- 
ably to  his  height. 
When  I  reached  the 
village  it  reminded  me 
curiously  of  a  country 
fair  at  home.  (ireat 
bunches  of  biightly- 
coloured  crotons  and 
hibiscus  were  festooned 
from  tree  to  tree,  the 
trunks  being  encircled 
with  strings  of  prettily 
blended  garlands  of 
creepers.  There  were,  I 
should  say,  upwards  of 
three  thousand  natives 
gathered  together  from 
the  different  islands, 
some    to    witness     and 


-HF    POWnFRi-D    HIS    FACE   WITH    LIME 

From  a  Photo. 


THE   CHIEF    WHO    GAVE   THE   FEAST, 

From  a  Photo. 


others   to   take   part    in   the  festivities. 
Many  hundreds  of  these  visitors  were 
covered    with   feathers  and   paint,  and 
with  their  weird  headdresses  of 
parrots'  and   other  feathers  gave 
a     most    ferocious    and    savage 
appearance    to    the 
scene.       Large     parti- 
tions   of    ferns    and 
palms  were  erected  for 
the  purpose  of  hiding 
the     performers     from 
view  when  not  actually 
going      through      their 
strange  evolutions. 

Presently  the  dismal 
noise    of    many    tom- 
toms was  to  be  heard, 
and   immediately   each 
tribe  came  forward   in 
its    turn    and    went 
through    their  especial- 
form    of    dance.       At 
their   fierce    and    wild 
noises     and     extra- 
ordinary contortions  of 
body     and    features     I 
could   not   help   feeling 
a    strange    sensation    of 
awe.      Each    tribe   per- 
formed   its  own    dance, 
which  is  owned  by  their 
chief,  who  either  designs 
it     himself    or,     if     not 
sufficiently  intelligent  to 
do     this,     purchases     it 
from      a      neighbouring 
warrior. 

Tiie  women  spectators 
stjuatted  on  one  side  of 
the  arena  and,  so  far  as 
1  could  see,  exhibited 
but  little  interest  in  the 
performance.  'I'hey  all 
chewed  vigorously  at 
their  betel-nut  and  in- 
dulged in  the  gossip  of 
the  place,  occasionally 
falling  asleep,  to  be 
awakened  by  some 
terrific  whoop  which 
told  of  the  termination 
of  one  part  of  the  cere- 
mony. 

The  men,  who  were 
ranged  opposite  the 
women,  applauded  the 
different  dances  in  a 
most  vociferous  manner, 


574 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


occasionally  rolling  on  the  ground  and  shouting 
for  joy  in  their  excitement.  The  annexed  illus- 
tration shows  a  group  of  natives  in  beautiful 
feather  headdresses  about  to  commence  a  dance. 

Facing  the  people  in  a  large  cleared  space  in 
the  fores°t  was  erected  a  huge  screen,  towering  to 
a  height  of  about  fifty  feet,  on  which  was  hung 
all  the  portable  property  of  the  chief  who  was 
acting  as  host. 

Innumerable  coils  of  dewarra  were  there  to 


of 


has  the  right  of  levying  a  small  tax   by  way 
payment  for  the  entertainment. 

I  witnessed  some  sixty  dances,  varying  but 
little  so  far  as  my  uneducated  eye  could  see  in 
performance,  and  not  at  all  in  the  music  which 
accompanied  them,  and  then  I  began  to  be 
wearied  of  it  all. 

Presently  I  saw  several  suspicious -looking 
pieces  of  cooked  meat  being  handed  round  in 
banana  leaves,  and  so,   snatching  up   the   two 


cause  envy  and  covetousness  in  the  minds  of 
the  visitors  and  to  let  the  world  know  of  his 
wealth.  Each  of  these  coils,  as  I  have  before 
explained,  is  valued  at  twenty  five  sovereigns, 
being  composed  of  two  hundred  and  fifty 
fathoms  of  the  current  shell  money.  This  is 
a  tiny  shell  resembling  the  cowrie,  but  much 
smaller,  and  is  carefully  bored  and  strung  upon 
narrow  strips  of  bamboo  cane.  The  precious 
shell  is  found  on  the  coast  some  hundreds  of 
miles  away  — somewhere  towards  the  south — and 
is  very  much  .sought  after,  as  with  it  the  natives 
purchase  their  wives,  their  slaves,  and  all  articles 
of  food.  On  this  screen  there  were  also 
exhibited  a  great  number  of  trophies  and 
ornaments,  including  the  spears,  scalps,  and 
skulls  of  vanquished  enemies.  It  is  the 
custom  to  present  any  distinguished  visitor 
with  a  gift  of  dewarra,  which  signifies  the 
pleasure  of  the  chief  at  his  presence,  but  upon 
all  ordinary  natives  attending  the  festivity  he. 


fathoms  of  native  money  which  had  been 
presented  to  me,  and  complimenting  the  chief 
upon  his  entertainment,  I  beat  a  hasty  retreat, 
fearing  lest  the  next  moment  I  should  be 
expected  to  partake  of  this  doubtful  repast.  It 
was  with  a  sigh  of  relief  that  I  again  breathed 
the  pure  air  of  the  coast  and  was  able  to  take 
my  hand  from  the  trigger  of  my  revolver,  which 
had  been  carefully  hidden  beneath  my  coat 
during  the  whole  time. 

My  visit  here  was  singularly  successful  from  a 
collector's  point  of  view,  and  I  discovered  very 
many  species  in  the  domain  of  ornithology  and 
entomology  that  were  entirely  new  to  science, 
amongst  the  most  prominent  being  a  beautiful 
kingfisher  (Alcyone  Websteri)  and  a  superb 
papilio  (Papilio  Websteri),  etc. 

I  made  several  excursions  to  the  neighbour- 
ing islands,  the  principal  being  to  the  Duke  of 
York  Group,  consisting  of  thirteen  islands,  all 
close  together. 


A.M().\(;    riiH   SOUTH    sea   c:a.\xibai.s. 


575 


I  landed  on  the  Island  of  Mioko  in  this 
ti;roup.  It  is  about  a  mile  long,  having  rather 
liigh  land  at  one  end,  and  gradually  slopmg 
down  to  the  level  of  the  sea  at  the  other.  This 
island  is  undoubtedly  one  of  the  healthiest 
spots  in  the  South  Seas,  as  it  obtains  the  sea 
breezes  from  all  points  of  the  compass.  On  the 
north  shore  it  has  a  magnificent  natural  harbour, 
surrounded  on  all  sides  by  a  luxuriant  growth  of 
cocoa  nut  and  orange  trees,  planted  by  passing 
Samoan  traders,  while  the  other  side  is  pro- 
tected from  the  ravages  of  the  destructive  tidal 
waves  and  hurricanes  by  a  very  large  reef  running 
off  the  island  for  some  considerable  distance. 

The  natives  resemlded  those  of  the  mainland 


A   GROUP   OF        DUK    DUK        PERFORMERS. 
Frotii  a  Photo. 


of  New  Britain  and  seemed  pleased  to  see  me, 
taking  me  all  over  the  island  and  showing  me 
through. their  villages.  At  the  higher  end  I  found 
a  very  large  underground  grotto,  in  which  they 
told  me  it  was  customary  to  hold  their  cannibal 
feasts.  Whilst  I  was  on  this  island  a  curious 
custom — peculiar  to  the  group — was  observed. 
It  is  called  the  "  Duk  Duk."  Its  origin,  so  far 
as  I  could  learn  from  the  natives,  dates  back 
several  hundreds  of  years,  and  was  afterwards 
made  use  of  by  a  very  smart  savage  and  cele- 
brated chief  in  order  to  frighten  the  people  into 
giving  up  to  him  their  worldly  goods. 


This  is  how  it  originated.  Some  men  had 
outlawed  themselves  by  committing  a  crime 
against  the  laws  of  their  tribe.  They  were 
thus  debarred  from  the  privileges  of  obtaining 
food  there,  and  so  conceived  the  idea  of 
covering  themselves  entirely  with  leaves  sewn 
together  into  grotesque  and  weird  shapes. 
Disguised  in  this  way  they  repaired  to  neigh- 
bouring villages,  making  their  appearance  from 
the  jungle  suddenly  with  strange  noises,  and 
frightening  the  unsophisticated  people  to  such  an 
extent  by  the  extraordinary  rumblings  that  they 
caused  to  issue  through  their  spiral  head-cover- 
ings that  food  was  willingly  given  them  in  order 
that  they  might  instantly  take  their  departure. 
•  This  ruse  proved  so  uni- 
formly successful  in  working 
upon  the  fears  of  the.se 
poor,  superstitious  savages 
that  eventually  a  certain 
.J,  /,         chief — more  intellectual  and 

^  ^)        tyrannical    than   the   rest — 

1  £2?^       arrogated     to     himself    the 

right  of  instituting   a   kind 
of    body-guard,    whom    he 
dressed  up  in  this  manner, 
hunting  down    his  enemie-i 
and     pillaging     their 
villages    with     the 
greatest  impunity. 

Any  woman  who 
dared  to  cast  but  one 
glance  upon  the 
dreaded  "Duk  Duk" 
was  instantly  put  to  death,  and 
even  at  the  time  when  I  wit- 
nessed the  performance  of  this 
custom — although  its  old-time 
significance  has  departed  and  it 
was  only  performed  in  a  sort  of 
merry-making  way  —  upon  the 
first  warning  of  the  approach  of 
these  strange,  devil-like  appari- 
tions the  women  fled  in  abject 
terror,  secreting  themselves  in  the 
densest  jungle  they  could  find. 
A  day  or  two  before  I  started  on  my  cruise 
again  I  made  my  last  expedition  into  the  forest. 
After  rowing  a  few  miles  along  the  coast  I  left 
my  men  in  the  boat  with  instructions  to  wait 
until  I  returned.  Taking  my  native  boy  to 
carry  the  camera,  I  made  my  way  up  a  small 
stream  to  where  I  had  been  told  was  a 
beautiful  cascade,  of  which  I  hoped  to  get  a 
picture.  After  following  the  stream  for  a  mile 
or  two  I  came  upon  a  pretty  little  glade  with  a 
few  banana  trees  dotted  about  and  the  remains 
of  some  native  huts,  showing  that  at  some 
remote  period  natives  had  dwelt  there.     After 


576 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


refreshing  myself  with  a  few  bananas  and  drink- 
ing the  milk  from  one  or  two  young  cocoanuts,  I 
was  about  to  push  on  again  when  suddenly  about 
a  dozen  of  the  wildest- looking  savages  I  had  yet 
seen  made  their  appearance  and  stood  glaring  at 
me  from  a  distance  of  a  dozen  yards — half  in 
fear,  half  in  anger,  at  my  intrusion  into  their 
country.  By  friendly  gestures  I  persuaded  them 
to  approach  and  offered  them  some  sticks  of 
tobacco,  which  they  accepted  with  but  scant 
courtesy.  They  were,  as  I  thought,  about  to 
move  on  when,  struck  by  the  picturesqueness 
of    the    scene,    I    told    my    boy    to    set    up 


flew  past  me,  and  I  fired  two  more  shots, 
whereupon  the  remainder  of  the  enemy  took  to 
their  heels,  leaving  no  trace  of  their  ever  having 
existed,  save  a  couple  of  spears  quivering  in  the 
ground  a  few  yards  away,  and  two  of  then- 
companions  very  much  disabled.  "  I  think, 
master,  we  go  back  now,"  remarked  my 
companion,  as  he  started  to  pack  up  the  camera. 
"  Halloa  !  "  I  shouted,  the  next  moment,  "  how 
is  this?  The  shutter  has  been  released." 
"  Perhaps,"  replied  the  boy,  now  trembling 
violently  with  fright,  "  me  'fraid  too  much,  me 
squeeze  him  ball."     This  was  what  had  actually 


fl{.H 


A  REMARKABLE    PHOTOGRAPHIC  CURIOSITY — CAPT.  WEBSTER  WAS 
PHOTOGRAPHED  BY    ACCIDENT    BY    HIS   SERVANT   JUST  AS 

SOME    NATIVES   ATTACKED    HIM.  [P/loto. 


From  a\ 


the  camera  in  order  that  I  might  take  a 
l)hotograph.  It  was  but  the  work  of  a  moment 
to  get  the  savages  in  focus,  standing  about 
in  uncertain  attitudes  of  fear  and  defiance. 
'I'he  shutter  was  [)lace(l  in  readiness,  and  I  had 
given  the  indiarubber  ball  to  my  boy  to  squeeze 
at  a  given  signal,  when  whizz  !  a  spear  shot  past 
my  head  in  most  uncomfortable  proximity. 
''Lookout!"  shouted  my  servant,  "these  people 
like  kill  you !"  The  next  instant  my  revolver  was 
smokmg  and  one  of  my  assailants  lay  howling 
on  the  ground.     Another  spear,  carelessly  aimed, 


happened,  as  I  afterwards  discovered,  for  on 
developing  the  plate  I  found  that  an  excellent 
picture  had  been  taken  of  the  whole  affair — 
one  which  is  absolutely  unique  in  the  whole  of 
my  collection.  This  remarkable  photographic 
curiosity  is  reproduced  above. 

A  day  or  two  after  this  unexpected  en- 
counter I  again  set  sail  for  the  largest  island 
in  the  world  (with  the  exception  of  Australia) 
—  New  Guinea,  the  home  of  the  cannibal, 
and  to  me  one  of  the  most  interesting  of  all 
countries. 


(To  he  concluded.) 


A    Night   in   a   God-house. 


By  J.  E.   Patterson. 

This  story  sounds    almost    incredible,    but    the    author   vouches    absolutely    for  it.      It  is  a  striking 
instance    of    the    danger    which     often    attends    attempts    to    gratify    one's    curiosity    when    in    a 

foreign  land. 


N  comparatively  prosaic  Bombay  it 
occurred  ;  but  given  the  necessary 
temperament,  a  sufficiently  foolish 
disregard  of  eventualities,  a  thirst 
for  knowledge  or  mischief,  and 
adventures  can  be  had  to-day  even  in  English 
back-yards.  Besides,  I  was  young  at  the  time. 
And  what  is  not  possible  to  the  green  seeker 
after  hidden  things  ?  Oh,  those  salad  days, 
when  the  world  seems  young  and  life  lies  before 
us  like  an  Aladdin's  cave  full  of  rich  mysteries, 
golden  delights,  and  deeds  of  derring-do  ! 

But  it  was  not  the  glamour  of  romance,  not  a 
desire  to  get  out  of  the  prosaicism  of  average  life, 
which  led  me  into  that  strange  Eastern  god-house 
and  caused  me  six  hours  of  terror  and  suspense. 
No,  it  was  simple  curiosity,  a  pure  first-hand 
itching  to  know.  Fresh  from  years  of  reading 
all  sorts  of  romance,  I  had  gone  out  on  my 
first  voyage  to  the  ever  attractive,  ever  subtle, 
ever  mysterious  East.  After  taking  a  vague 
peep  at  its  life,  over  the  threshold  as  it  were,  in 
Port  Louis,  Isle  of  France,  I  found  myself  in 
Bombay.  Prepared  for  all  kinds  of  wonderful 
surprises,  yet  in  truth  ready  for  nothing  of  a 
definite  trend,  full  of  eager  interest  in  every- 
tliing  about  me,  from  the  native  fisherman 
catching  ground-sharks  to  the  dinghy-tvallah 
who  paddled  us  ashore  in  his  dug-out,  I  first 
trod  "  India's  coral  strand "  in  the  short  l)ut 
lovely  twilight  of  an  Eastern  Saturday  night. 
In  my  pocket  lay  the  magnificent  sum  of  ten 
rupees;  in  my  limbs  and  body  the  "pink  of 
health  "  ;  and  in  my  mind  the  determination  to 
pass  nothing  unnoticed. 

For  companions  I  had  a  Swedish  A.B.,  the 
cook,  and  our  bo'sun,  who  had  taken  me  under 
his  fatherly  North-country  wing.  After  a  long 
stroll  about  the  city  and  a  visit  to  the  Royal 
Oak — then  kept  by  one  "  Parsee  George  " — we 
were  returning  slowly  towards  the  beach.     I  was 

Vol.  xi.— 73. 


in  rear  of  the  talkative  party,  losing  ground 
every  few  yards  because  of  finding  so  many 
objects  of  interest  by  the  roadside. 

At  length  we  came  to  a  turning  at  the  corner 
of  which  stood  a  house  I  shall  never  forget.  At 
the  time  my  companions  must  have  been  a 
good  three  hundred  yards  ahead  of  me.  To  all 
intents  and  purposes  I  was  alone.  Not  that 
such  a  circumstance  is  of  the  least  importance 
in  modern  Bombay,  but  it  mattered  much  to 
me. 

The  house  (it  stood  at  the  left-hand  corner  of 
the  road)  had  nothing  special  in  its  appearance. 
It  was  not  walled  in,  as  so  many  private  houses 
in  India  are,  but  was  built  back  some  eight 
or  ten  feet  from  the  rest  of  the  street  on  that 
side,  and  had  a  big  banana  tree  growing  on 
the  intervening  space.  I  give  these  particulars 
so  that  it  may  be  recognised  by  any  reader 
who  knows  the  city  well,  for  I  cannot  remember 
the  names  of  the  two  streets  on  which  it 
abutted. 

Up  to  the  time  of  my  turning  the  left-hand 
corner,  towards  the  great  covered-in  market,  I 
was  simply  gazing  about  in  search  of  some 
object  of  striking  interest.  It  came  the 
moment  I  rounded  the  building— came  in  a 
guise  least  expected. 

About  e'ght  feet  from  the  corner  of  the  house 
there  was  a  shuttered,  i)ut  sashless,  window,  one 
shutter  being  quite  closed,  the  other  ajar. 
Through  the  long  slit  of  an  opening  I  saw,  in 
the  lighted  room  beyond,  a  native  stripped  to 
his  waist,  making  the  lowest  salaams  possible. 
What  he  could  be  bowing  to  in  such  a  manner 
and  at  that  time  of  night— well-nigh  the  "  hour 
when  churchyards  yawn  and  graves  give  up 
their  dead  "—so  mystified  me  that  instantly  I 
crept  up  to  the  window  and  took  a  peep  within. 

High  in  a  curious  sort  of  chair  framework 
sat    the    most  ugly  carving  my  eyes  had   ever 


57« 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


encountered.  Its  repulsivcness  was  abnormal 
both  in  colour  and  feature  ;  for  it  was  painted 
to  look  even  worse  than  the  carver's  chisel  had 
made  it  This  awful-looking  deity  was  the 
object  of  the  salaams  !  The  man  I  had  seen 
quicklv  proved  to  be  one  of  a  party,    whom   i 


on  that  side  of  the  house,  common  to  East 
Indian  dwellings.  My  intense  excitement  and 
eagerness  to  see  more  of  that  strange  midnight 
worship  prevented  all  thought  of  the  difficulty 
of  keeping  such  a  position  long. 

Slowly  and  with   the   utmost   caution  I  begar 


U/,  'J-"    'i,^iot)iifi.  \ 


rillS   AWI--UI,-LOC)KlNG    DEirV   W.\S   THE   OBJECT   OF   THE    SALAAMS  !" 


discovered  in  ones  and  twos  as  they  filed 
between  me  and  the  frigiitful  god  they  were 
worslii[)ping.  I  stood  transfixed,  in  interest  far 
more  than  in  fear.  An  English  lad,  in  a  free 
street  and  a  I'.ritish-governed  country,  I  had  no 
reason  to  dread  what  the  house  held. 

But  I  could  not  see  enough  of  the  contents 
of  that  big  room.  The  opening  between  those 
shutters  allowed  me  to  obtain  a  view  of  only  a 
small  section  of  the  apartment.  I  must  see 
more.  For  this  reason  I  gained  a  kneeling 
position  on  llie  IV-ot  widu,   three-feet-high  ledge 


to  draw  the  shutter  farther  away  from  its  fellow. 
During  this  operation  that  little  band  of  devotees 
passed  continually  to  and  fro  before  their  image, 
salaaming  and  prostrating  themselves  in  the 
utmost  abjection.  My  eyes  were  strained  in  an 
endeavour  to  catch  a  glimpse  of  those  portions 
of  the  room  which  were  still  hidden  from  me 
by  the  shutters. 

Then  came  the  keynote  of  probable  tragedy. 

Too  intent  on  watching  the  doings  within  to 
keep  a  proper  guard  on  my  own,  I  pulled 
mechanically  at  the   shutter,   even    when  it  had 


A    NIGHT    IN    A    GOD-ttOUSE. 


579 


stopped  moving.  At  this  point  it  was  half 
open.  Its  hinges  were  evidently  rusty.  They 
creaked  a  shrill  warning,  grating  on  the  ear  in 
an  alarming  fashion.  In  an  instant  all  within 
was  dark  as  the  grave,  and  as  quiet.  Not  so 
with  me.  Fear  at  the  consequences  of  my 
foolish  curiosity  robbed  me  of  all  proper  self- 
control.  In  wildly  endeavouring  to  counteract 
an  overbalancing  backwards  1  jerked  myself 
too  far  forward,  bringing  the  shutter  quite  open 
w  i  t  h  me  —  and 
toppled  bodily  into 
the  room  ! 

The  thud  of  my 
body  on  the  boarded 
floor  was  a  signal 
for  fresh  movements 
on  the  part  of  my 
enemies,  as  I  now 
guessed  the  wor- 
shippers to  be.  To 
judge  by  the  noise 
of  their  feet  they 
made  a  rush  bodily 
at  the  window.  But 
life  on  board  ship 
and  escapades  in 
tight  corners  on 
shore  had  already 
taught  me  some 
monkeyish  tricks. 
Over  I  rolled,  al- 
most as  soon  as  I 
b  u  m  p  e  d  on  the 
floor.  A  foot  struck 
against  mine  as  I 
cleared  the  rush. 
Its  owner  went 
down  headlong  by 
the  wall  under  the 
window.  On  him 
pounced  his  fellows, 
apparently  thinking 
him  the  intruder — 
at  least,  it  seemed 
so  to  me  —  and 
whilst  they  struggled 
there  in  the  dark- 
ness, in  a  subdued  hubbub  of  mutterings  and 
scuffling,  I  crept  swiftly  away  on  hands  and 
knees. 

Feeling  that  my  life  was  in  my  hands  I  made 
a  rapid  retreat  from  the  little  crowd,  not  know- 
ing nor  caring  whither  I  went,  so  be  that  I  got 
away.  My  right  shoulder  bumped  against  a 
wall.  Along  it  I  sped,  still  on  my  hands  and 
knees  for  the  sake  of  silence.  A  corner  turned 
me  off.  'I'lie  quiet  scuffle  by  the  vvindow  con- 
tinued ;     evidt-ntly     the     excited     natives     had 


"  WITH    THE    UTJIOST   CAUTION    I    BEGAN    TO    DKAW    TDK   SHUTTER. 


not  yet  discovered  their  mistaktr.  I  hurried 
forward,  and  was  brought  up  suddenly  by  mv 
head  striking  an  obstacle.  A  moment's  exami- 
nation proved  the  barrier  to  be  some  steps,  up 
which  I  went,  spurred  on  by  the  fact  that  a 
minute  lost  would  probably  mean  death  to  me, 
whilst  one  gained  might  save  my  life. 

Still  hugging  the  wall,  I  quickly  found  myself 
beside  the  chair  of  that  awful-looking  god. 
Now,  I  remembered  seeing  through  the  slit  that 

had  led  me  into 
this  scrape  a  door- 
way to  tiie  right  ol 
the  god's  dais.  For 
this  doorway  I  was 
about  to  make  when 
my  arm  encountered 
a  large  space  be- 
tween the  image 
and  the  wall.  I  at 
once  pressed  into  it 
— to  find  the  god  a 
hollow  one  !  Just 
then  a  ligiit  flashed 
on  the  scene  and 
the  scuffling  in  the 
corner  ceased 
abruptly. 

Inside  the  figure 
I  huddled,  miL,hlily 
pleased  at  finding  it 
big  enough  to  hold 
two  of  my  size  in 
comfort. 

Never  before, 
surely,  was  a  j)ri- 
soner  so  thankful 
for  his  cell  !  As  I 
crouched  there  in 
that  hollow  accu- 
mulation of  ugli- 
ness, afraid  to  look 
out  because  of 
enemies  chancing 
near  enough  to  see 


me,  yet  expecting 
discovery  every  mo- 
ment, I  listened  to 
a  new  hubbub  among  the  worshippers.  In 
all  likelihood  some  new  arrivals  with  a  light 
had  shown  that  die  sacrilegious  intruder  was 
not  there,  and  they  were  endeavouring  to 
solve  the  mystery  of  his  disapi)eara nee.  In 
conseciuence  there  was  much  hurrying  to  and 
fro  amongst  them,  much  coming  and  going, 
many  apparent  queries  and  as  many  disap[)omt- 
ing  answers.  Having  no  weapons  with  which 
to  fight  my  way  out  if  discovered  and  attacked, 
everything   depended   upon   strategv.  and  so  all 


58o 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


i.NCl-;    I'KESSKD   INTO    IT — TO   FIND   THli   COU    A    HOLLOW   ONE! 


my  faculties  were  concentrated  preternatural ly 
on  what  I  heard.  Being  unable  to  see  anything 
that  was  going  on,  my  hearing  and  intuitive 
deduction  became  painfully  acute  in  this  dan- 
gerous situation.  I  would  have  given  years  of 
my  life  for  such  a  key  to  those  fanatics'  doings 
as  understanding  wh:it  was  said  whilst  they 
rapidly  came  and  went.  My  natural  supposition 
was  that  they  were  searching  for  me. 

P>oin  early  boyhood  up  to  the  very  hilt  of 
this  affair  1  had  read,  at  different  times,  tales  of 
the  Indian  Mutiny,  the  Black  Hole  of  Calcutta, 
the  atrocities,  real  and  imaginary,  of  Akbar 
Khan  and  his  f(jllowers,  to  say  nothing  of  a 
library  of  stories  wholly  fictitious.  Now  I  saw 
myself  the  subject  of  almost  certain  torture — an 
English  youth  murdered  in  secret,  missed  by 
the  way  and  never  discovered.  If  I  ever  got 
out  of  that  place  alive  I  vowed  I  would  never 
again  be  tempted  to  put  my  head  into  such 
another  scrape.  This  I  swore,  off  and  on, 
whilst  wondering  what  the  idol-worshippers  were 
doing,  and  alternately  pondering  my  chances  of 
escape.  Kepealedly  the  lamps  they  carried 
flashed  brief  beams  of  light  across  the  space 
between  the  god  and  the  wall,  and  as  often  as 
liiose  flashes  came  I  thought  it  was  all  over  and 
that  the  fanatics  were  about  to  discover  me. 
I'ttr  hours  I  seemed  to  be  imprisoned  there,  yet 
the  awful  suspense  I  endured  whilst  the  hurry- 
ing about  and  excited  talking  continued  was 
probably  not  of  more  than  fifteen  minutes' 
duration. 

But  my  anxiety  and  fear  were  not  given  an 
opportunity  of    lessening  till    what    was    in    all 


likelihood  considerably 
after  midnight.  When  the 
soft  patter  of  naked  feet 
on  the  bare  floors  and  the 
general  hubbub  had  sub- 
sided, a  quiet  consultation 
(as  It  seemed  to  me)  took 
place  in  the  middle  of 
that  great  room.  What 
the  result  was  would  be 
idle  of  me  to  guess.  But, 
although  I  had  just  pre- 
viously turned  renegade 
on  curiosity,  my  desire  to 
know  what  was  being  done 
compelled  me  to  turn 
round  in  search  of  a  peep- 
hole, which  was  soon 
discovered  somewhere 
about  the  fastening  of  the 
huge  god's  carven  sash. 

It  was  a  small  hole,  to 
which  I  could  apply  only 
one  eye,  and  the  narrow 
radius  of  my  vision  soon  proved  peculiarly 
exasperating.  Scarcely  had  I  focused  the  little 
crowd  of  about  twenty  devotees  when  they  broke 
apart  and  resumed  their  interrupted  worshipping. 
In  all  probability  they  considered  that  I  had 
escaped  through  the  window -hole  ere  they 
replaced  the  shutter.  Being  such  fanatical 
devotees  they  did  not  even  dream  of  approach- 
ing their  idol  to  look  for  the  sacrilegious  intruder 
there.  As  before,  backwards  and  forwards  they 
passed  in  front  of  the  god,  making  obeisance  to 
the  floor,  muttering  in  turn  what  I  judged  to  be 
prayers  or  invocations.  To  right  and  left  of  the 
four  steps  leading  up  to  the  god's  throne  or 
chair  stood  men  who  appeared  to  fill  the  office 
of  priests.  As  the  others  drew  near  these  two 
went  through  a  pantomime  of  contortions,  so 
far  as  they  could  without  moving  their  feet ; 
meantime  they  murmured  what  seemed  to  me 
to  be  the  same  formulae  of  words.  To  every 
worshipper  these  actions  and  murmurs  were 
exactly  repeated,  and  were  of  such  absorbing 
interest  that  I  did  not  once  think  of  the  tragic 
ludicrousness  of  the  situation  —  these  abject 
devotions  to  a 'piece  of  hollow  wood  that  hid 
one  whose  mere  presence,  to  their  ideas,  wholly 
desecrated  the  scene. 

Then  came  the  end.  The  worshippers—  all 
men,  by  the  way — filed  in  solemn  procession 
out  of  sight,  headed  by  one  and  followed  by  the 
other  of  the  two  priests  bearing  their  quaint 
flaring  lamps  with  them. 

I  was  left  in  absolute  darkness — alone  with 
that  great  lump  of  repulsive  carving — alone  to 
escape,  as   I   thought,  back  to  the  comparative 


A    NIC  HI'     I\     A    COD  HOUSE. 


58  > 


safety  of  a  j)ublic  street.  The  silence  was 
oppressive,  yet  must  welcome,  and  seemed 
peculiarly  pregnant  with  the  spirit  of  what  might 
be  in  the  heavy  heat  of  that  Indian  night. 

For  a  time  I  remained  still,  straining  my  hear- 
ing to  detect  the  faintest  sound.  When  at  last  I 
felt  that  all  was  really  quiet  in  the  place  I  slipped 
down  to  a  sitting  posture  and  took  off  my  shoes, 
then  tied  their  strings  together,  in  order  to  hang 
them  over  my  shoulders,  for  I  should  need  them 
when  once  clear  of  the  god-house. 

My  next  move  was  a  painfully  slow  seeking 
for  the  window  by  which  I  had  tumbled  into 
the  place — painful  chiefly  because  of  my  efforts 
not  to  make  the  slightest  noise,  and  to  be  alert 
to  the  least  disturbance  outside  myself.  Nautical 
instinct  in  the  matter  of  bearings  led  me  almost 
straight  to  the  desired  object.  The  window, 
however,  proved  to  be  secured  in  a  manner  that 
I  could  not  unfasten  !  A  premonition  of  this 
disconcerting  fact  ran  through  me  as  my  fingers 
travelled  hurriedly  over  the  fastening,  each  detail 
of  which  I  then  more  carefully  examined — all 
the  while  in  a  fever  of  anxiety  lest  some  chance 
custodian  of  the  place  should  come  along  and 
find  me  there.  The  fastening  was,  so  far  as  I 
could  ascertain  in  the  darkness,  composed  of  a 
long  iron  rod,  headed  at  the  top  end,  dropped 
through  a  succession  of  strong  eyes  of  the  same 
metal,  alternately  secured  to  each  shutter,  the 
rod  being  held  in  place  by  a  stout  pliable  wire 
being  rove  through  an  eye  in  at  its  bottom  end. 
All  this  had,  no  doubt,  been  done  during  my 
first  few  minutes  in  the  hollow  god. 

This  discovery  was  a  stunning  blow  to  my 
hopes  of  gaining  freedom  via  the  window.  I 
stood  back  a  pace,  quite  aghast  at  my  position. 
To  this  moment  I  had  looked  forward  as  the 
time  when  I  should  issue  from  danger  to  safety, 
chuckling  over  my  escapade.  Now,  however,  I 
.saw  myself  in  a  worse  plight  than  ever,  and  once 
again  cursed  the  inherent  curiosity  that  had  led 
me  into  the  muddle. 

In  my  pocket  was  an  ordinary  sailor's  clasp- 
knife,  and  with  this  I  began  a  series  of  futile 
operations  on  the  barrier  to  my  egress.  After 
vainly  trying  to  remove  the  eyes  from  the 
shutters  I  thought  of  sawing  through  the  wire  ; 
but,  under  some  mystic  influence,  left  it  severely 
alone  and  turned  again  to  the  eyes  above.  I 
might  as  well  have  endeavoured  to  burgle  the 
Bank  of  England  with  a  lady's  penknife.  More- 
over, all  my  actions  had  to  be  done  in  absolute 
silence  and  with  the  utmost  dispatch. 

Then  came  a  new  idea,  at  first  rapturous  in 
its  possibilities.  The  wire  ran  right  and  left, 
farther  than  I  could  reach.  What  if  I  followed 
it  and  gained  safety  by  its  means  ?  as  I  had 
years  previously  read  of  one  'I'heseus  doing  with 


a  silken  thread  in  the  famous  Lal)yrinlh  of 
Crete.  At  any  rate,  to  remain  there  would  be 
the  height  of  stupidity  ;  to  seek  freedom  else- 
where was  but  natural.  Accordingly,  I  placed 
my  right  hand  on  the  wire  and  moved  carefully 
along  by  its  side,  presently  to  find  myself  stopped 
by  a  wall  through  which  the  wire  apparently 
continued. 

Realizing  how  precious  the  fleeing  moments 
were  becoming  to  me,  I  turned  about,  changed 
hands  on  the  wire,  retraced  my  steps,  passed  the 
window,  arrived  at  another  secured  in  the  same 
manner,  and  at  length  found  myself  traversing 
a  corridor — the  ont ,  I  imagined,  along  which 
the  devotees  had  gone  when  leaving  the  presence 
of  the  god. 

Now  was  the  time  for  redoubled  alertness. 
On  what  should  I  emerge — freedom  or  worse 
danger?  My  senses  again  became  acutely  keen 
to  all  outward  matters.  Each  foot  was  lifted  up 
and  put  down  with  a  care  for  which  I  should  not 
previously  have  given  myself  credit. 

In  the  same  manner  my  hand  went  along  the 
wire,  which  was  supported  here  and  there  by  a 
staple  in  the  wall.  I  took  infinite  care  not  to 
put   an    ounce    of   v.'eight    on     it.       for    these 


"  I   CA.ME   hULL  O.V   A   LIOHTF.D   RUO.M. 


582 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


reasons  my  speed  was  but  little  more  than  that 
of  the  proverbial  snail. 

From  the  passage  I  entered  another  room, 
passed  a  window  fastened  as  the  others  were, 
and  began  to  thread  a  second  corridor.  During 
all  this  time  I  heard  no  noise  and  saw  not  the 
faintest  glint  of  a  light.  I  began  to  think  that 
the  building  was  untenanted  save  for  myself  and 
that  repulsive  idol  behind  me.  What  a  glorious 
upshot  to  the  affair  if  such  should  be  the  case  ! 
I  could  then  eJect  an  exit  in  comfort. 

So  mn  my  thoughts  as  I  trod  slowly  forward, 
gained  a  turn  in  the  passage,  and  came  full 
upon  a  lighted  room  not  more  than  ten  feet 
away.  Certainly  the  light  was  not  great,  and  it 
was  apparently  produced  by  a  lamp  placed  so 
that  its  beams,  unintentionally  or  otherwise,  did 
not  penetrate  the  corridor.  Instantly  my  hand  left 
the  wire  and  I  halted.  What  was  before  me 
now?  To  know  that,  what  would  I  not  have 
given  !  Should  I  go  on,  or  turn  and  make 
all  possible  haste  back  ?  I  stood  there  in  doubt. 
Behind  me  lay  certain  imprisonment  till  day- 
light,   if    nothing   worse.       Before    me — what  ? 


very  wire  I  had  followed  !  I  had  actually  used 
the  wires  of  their  burglar  alarm  as  a  guide  ! 
l-'resh  horror  at  the  risk  I  had  unconsciously 
run  held  me  like  one  petrified.  Evidently  the 
slightest  pull  on  that  wire  would  have  brought 
one,  if  not  more,  of  those  fanatics  down  on  me, 
and  probably  have  ended  my  escapades  on  the 
spot.  Big  beads  of  perspiration  stood  out  on 
my  face  at  the  thought  of  what  I  had  escaped. 
Mechanically  I  edged  backwards,  taking  especial 
care  to  keep  clear  of  the  wire.  When  again  at 
the  turn  in  the  passage  I  stopped,  brought  to  a 
standstill  by  the  recollection  that  across  the 
lighted  room  I  had  seen  an  open  doorway. 
Whither  did  it  lead  ?  Could  I  reach  it  safely 
and  gain  an  outlet  that  way  ?  Was  it  worth 
while  to  take  the  greater  risk  of  awaking  that 
sleeping  priest  ?  These  were  the  thoughts 
occupying  my  brain  as  I  stood  there  in  new 
uncertainty.  The  situation  lent  me  a  courage 
wliich,  I  am  not  ashamed  to  say,  had  deserted 
me  in  the  face  of  what  I  had  just  experienced. 

Again    my   steps   were  directed    forward.     I 
was  determined  to  get   out  of  the  place  if  pos- 


UOWN    I    STOOI'El 


\K-DS    THAT 


.MLCn-C(j\  J,  1  tl;    OliJliCI. 


Perhaps  a  quiet  egress  which  would  be  lost  if  I 
returned.  At  least  I  could  creep  forward  and 
see  what  the  room  held. 

All  was  in  absolute  silence  as  I  crawled  on. 
Arrived  at  the  end  of  the  passage  I  took  a 
nasty  glance  beyond,  and  saw  one  of  the  two 
priests  squatting  on  the  floor  asleep,  his  head 
against  a  wall.  Beside  his  ear  were  three 
bells  attached  to  wires  coming  from  different 
directions,  one  of  them  being  at  the  end  of  the 


sible.  Just  within  the  end  of  the  corridor  I 
drew  up  to  make  a  full  survey  of  the  room.  I 
discovered  that  the  sleeping  priest,  those  warn- 
ing bells,  the  opposite  doorway,  and  a  few 
objects  of  no  interest  were  the  only  things  there. 
I  was  about  to  draw  back  and  debate  afresh 
whether  to  go  back  or  press  onward  when  an 
old  English  naval  cutlass  attracted  my  attention. 
It  lay  on  the  floor  by  the  wall,  some  three  feet 
to  iny  right,  and  still  seemed  capable  of  doing 


A    NIGHT    IN    A    (lOD-HOUSE. 


583 


good  service.  If  I  could  only  get  hold  of  it  ! 
Then  the  priest  mi,i^ht  wake  and  be  hanged  iox 
all  I  cared,  providing  he  did  not  call  help.  As 
a  member  of  the  Naval  Reserve  I  had  learnt  to 
use  such  a  weapon,  and  should  probably  do  some 
damage  with  it  if  once  m  my  grasp,  should  the 
way  to  freedom  be  barred. 

Down  I  stooped,  right  at  the  corner  of  the 
passage,  and  reached  towards  that  much-coveted 
object.  Stretch  out  my  hand  as  I  would,  it 
still  remained  some  inches  beyond  my  finger- 
tips. Once  the  sleeper  moved.  Like  a  rush 
of  'wind  in  squally  March  I  was  back  in  the 
corridor,  breathing  hard  and  ready  to  run  if  my 
movement  had  further  disturbed  him.  I  waited, 
listening  keenly.  All  was  still.  I  took  another 
peep.  He  slept  peacefully,  maybe  dreaming 
that  the  repellent  god  had  many  blessings  in 
store  for  him.  Again  I  essayed  the  cutlass,  this 
time  taking  a  short  pace  into  the  room  before 
reaching  for  it.  Result  :  I  arose  feeling  twenty 
times  my  former  self.  Once  in  possession  of 
the  cutlass,  I  felt  ready  to  march  straight  over 
to  the  priest,  touch  him  with  the  point  of  my 
weapon,  and  demand  to  be  instantly  let  out  of 
the  building.  But,  then,  what  of  those  others 
whom  he  could  possibly  summon  to  his  aid, 
who  might  come  armed  and  in  numbers? 
I  considered,  seeing  that  discretion  is  the 
better  part  of  valour. 

Forward  I  stole,  still  noiseless  as  before, 
careful  as  ever  to  make  all  my  movements 
in  absolute  silence  ;  yet,  owing  to  the  cut- 
lass, not  under  the  same  severe  tension  of 
feeling.  The  doorway  was  safely  gained, 
and  I  found  myself  in  another  corridor, 
which  I  carefully  examined  for  wires,  but 
discovered  none.  Forward  I  pressed  and 
very  soon  found  myself  in  a  small,  square 
room  with  a  door  that  apparently  opened  on 
to  the  street,  or  at  least  out  of  tlie  building ; 
for  the  gleam  of  a  gas-lamp  was  to  be  seen 
through  a  tiny  chink  or  crack  in  the  door. 
Thinking  that  I  had  at  last  reached  the  end 
of  my  imprisonment,  I  began  to  pass  my 
hands  over  the  fastenings  of  the  barrier — 
only  to  find  that  here  I  was  again  baulked 
of  escape.  It  was  locked  and  the  key 
gone  !  Flaving  ascertained  this  miserable 
truth  I  noted  every  other  detail  of  the  fasten- 
ings. I'hey  were  more  than  I  could  have 
managed  to  overcome  under  the  circum- 
stances, even  if  there  had  been  no  lock  on 
the  door. 

I  spent  a  long  time  in  reviewing  my 
position,  seeing  it,  I  think,  from  every  pos- 
sible standpoint,  and  finally  concluded  that 
my  best  course  of  action  was  one  of  (piiet 
waiting  on  the  spot — provided   I   could  find 


a  hiding-place— till  the  door  should  bfc  opened 
after  daybreak.  I  began  to  search  for  a  retreat 
at  once,  but  was  mterrupted  by  hearing  voices  ni 
the  watcher's  room.  Hastily  I  slipped  to  the  end 
of  the  short  corridor,  with  the  cutlass  ready  for 
use,  and  saw  the  second  priest  standing  carelessly 
in  the  lighted  chamber  beyond.  He  was  evidendy 
talking  to  his  comrade,  and  had  come  along  the 
passage  previously  threaded  by  me.  What  if 
he  had  come  earlier  and  stumbled  on  me  ! 

Awhile  I  listened  and  watched.  The  one 
who  had  sat  sleeping  passed  my  narrow  line  of 
vision,  yawning  and  stretching  himself  as  he 
went.  The  talking  ceased.  I  heard  soft  foot- 
falls receding.  Perfect  tjuietude  followed,  and 
I  decided  that  the  two  priests  (as  we  should 
term  it  at  sea)  had  changed  watches.  Now  I 
had  to  reckon  on  a  custodian  awake,  for  though 
he  might  be  quickly  asleep  that  fact  would  be 
unknowji  to  me.  With  even  greater  care  than 
ever  I  resumed  my  search  for  a  nook  to  hide  in, 
feelingly  gingerly  along,  with  my  left  hand  well 
extended  and  the  cutlass  ready  in  my  right.  At 
length  I  stowed  myself  away  in  what  seemed  to 
be  a  recess  partially  screened  off"  by  a  pile  of 
things   which   I  was  chary  of  touching  lest  they 


"ill 


j    IN    nil'.    rKlSM    MOKNINU    AlU. 


<8; 


IHl':    WIDK    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


played  traitor  on  me  by  a  fall.  With  what 
awful  slo\vnes.s  the  time  dragged  till  daylight 
struggled  through  an  oblong  slit  of  a  window- 
up  near  the  ceiling  opposite  to  where  I 
crouched  !  Yet  I  had  no  temptation  to  sleep, 
nor  did  I  feel  hungry.  When  the  day  had 
broken  I  momentarily  expected  the  coming  of 
my  unwitting  gaoler,  each  minute  appearing  an 
hour,  each  hour  a  lifetime,  till  my  young  nerves 
seemed  about  to  break  under  the  strain  of 
expectancy.  1  put  on  my  shoes  ready  for 
emerging.  When  at  last  he  did  come,  however, 
all  my  weariness  of  tension  passed  away  in  an 
instant.  Mind  and  muscle  were  alike  alert.  It 
was  the  long-deferred  moment  of  mv  release. 


I)anana  tree.  In  fact,  I  was  about  to  do  so, 
thinking  thai  he  might  refasten  the  door  after 
thus  filling  his  lungs,  when  good  fortune  for 
once  kindly  played  into  my  hands. 

Suddenly  there  was  a  burst  of  noise  outside, 
and  the  stolid  i)riest  became  alert.  Two  native 
and  one  white  policemen  led  a  couple  of 
prisoners  past,  followed  by  a  crowd  of  Hindu 
and  European  men  and  youths.  Quick  came 
the  thought.  Here's  my  chance  !  The  cutlass 
was  quietly  laid  down.  With  three  long,  silent 
strides  I  reached  the  ])riest,  took  his  narrow, 
supple  waist  in  my  arms,  flung  him  off  his  feet 
and  aside,  and  then  sprang  into  the  passing 
throng— to  be  in  a  moment  swallowed  by  it,  as 


I    H.L.NCi    IIIM    AML.L   A.Mj   SlliA.M^    l.\lu    IMK    ]  ASSI.NO     IflKONc;. 


V,   in  the  dim  light,  I  watched  him 

■  ■"'■'  patience-killing  leisure,  to  the  door. 

<  >M.-   by  one,   as  if  he   had  all    time   and   half 

y  for  the  task,  he  cast  off  the  fastenings 

■r  wide  open.     Then  he  stood 

V,  midtlle  aged  embodiment  of 

'M.    his    black-brown    legs    protruding 

ht  creamy  piece  of  stuff  wound 

nd  thrown  over  one  shoulder. 

lie  was  drii.kintj  in  the  fresh  morning   air  and 

liim-.elf  withal.      1   could  have 

■land  im[)atiently  hurled  hini  into 

of  my  way,  for  'the  do(jr  happily 

"p««H-d  on  a  public  thoroughfare  and  near  the 


it  followed  the  police  and  their  prisoners.  As  I 
looked  back  I  saw  my  victim  return  to  the 
doorway  and  gaze  in  a  bewildered  fashion  at  the 
crowd.  Evidently  he  did  not  quite  imderstand 
wliat  had  happened.  lint  1  was  free,  and 
troubled  about  nothing  else  until  I  had  had  a 
good  breakfast  at  the  Royal  Oak.  \\'hether 
the  house  was  some  worshipping-place  of  a 
secret  or  semi-secret  sect  of  Hinduism  or  not  I 
cannot  tell.  Naturally,  I  religiously  refrained 
from  asking  any  (juestions  about  the  i)lace,  and 
on  my  subseriuent  visits  to  liombay  I  passed 
it  by  while  seeming  to  look  straight  ahead 
only. 


THE    TPAGEDY    OF    THE    "riARIA" 

AND    My    PART    IN    IT. 

By  Mrs.  Sabina  Lewis. 

Galloping  through  the  Queensland  bush  to  fetch  her  father  to  the  bedside  of  her  mother,  who  was 
very  ill,  the  authoress  was  captured  by  a  band  of  cannibal  blacks,  who  displayed  to  her  horrified 
eyes  the  remains  of  a  party  of  white  men  who  had  fallen  into  their  clutches.  Subsequently,  Mrs. 
Lewis  managed  to  make  her  escape  and  reach  her  father's  camp.  Soon  after  she  learnt  the  history 
of   the   unfortunate   whites    who    had   met  such   a  terrible  fate    at    the   hands  of  the    savages. 

I.-iMV    PART    IN     THE    TRAGEDY. 


N  1872  1,  tht-n  a  girl  of  twelve  years 
of  age,  was  living  at  a  beautiful 
but  unhealthy  little  port  named 
Cardwell,  in  Rockingliani  Bay, 
North  Queensland.  My  father  was 
a  telegraph-line  constructor  in  the  employ  of 
the  Queensland  ( iovernment,  and  had  been 
sent  to  Cardwell  to  supervise  the  erection  of  a 
line  between  that  place  and  the  new  settlement 
of  Townsville,  in  Cleveland  Bay.  For  business 
reasons  he  chose  Cardwell  as  a  place  of 
residence,  and  in 
March,  1871,  we  went 
to  live  there.  Our  family 
consisted  of  my  father 
and  mother,  my  brother 
Alexander,  aged  six- 
teen, and  myself.  My 
brother  helped  my 
father  in  his  work,  and, 
like  most  Australian 
boys  born  in  the  back- 
blocks,  was  a  good  rider 
and  bushman.  The 
telegraph  gang  con- 
sisted of  ten  men — all 
big,  strong  fellows,  and 
inured  to  hardship.  The 
work  of  erecting  a  tele- 
graph-line in  those  days 
and  even  now  in  the 
far  north — was  one  of 
great  danger,  for  not 
only  was  the  deadly 
malarial  fever  certain  to 
seize  anyone  working 
in    the   dense    tropical 

jungle,  but  the  blacks  were  very  bad, 
and  the  working  parties  had  to  fell  giant  trees 
and  clear  away  the  dense  scrub  with  their 
revolvers  in  their  belts,  ever  on  the  alert  for  a 
shower  of  spears  and  a  rush  of  ferocious,  naked 
savages,  whose  cannibalistic  tastes  were  notorious. 
My  father,  however,  was  a  very  experienced 
bushman  and  took  all  possible  precautions  for 
the  safety  of  his   men.  and  so  far,  although  W\^ 

Vol.  xi.     74. 


party  had  been  several  times  attacked,  none  of 
them  were  killed.  The  black  police,  who 
patrolled  the  Cardwell  district,  were  very 
merciless  in  their  dealings  with  the  "  myall '' 
(wild)  blacks,  and  if  some  sohtary  prospector,  or 
the  crew  of  some  wrecked  vessel,  was  attacked 
by  them,  the  black  troopers,  under  a  white 
inspector,  would  sally  out  to  "  disperse "  the 
natives,  which  usuall\-  meant  shooting  down  all 
and  sundry. 

About  the  end  of   February  of  the  following 

year  the  C  a  r  d  w  e 1 1 


IHK    AUTHOKESS,    MRS.    SAIII 
VKAKS     1)1.1)     AT     TIIK      1 

/•'/■('///  <i  l^hoto.  /y  the 


people  were  thrown 
into  some  excitement 
by  the  arrival  of  a 
South  Sea  slaver  named 
the  Chance,  which  had 
been  captured  by 
IT  M.S.  Basilisk.  My 
father  took  my  brother 
and  me  on  board,  and 
we  were  shown  over 
the  "  blackbirder  "  by 
the  bluejackets  of  the 
prize  crew.  Whilst  on 
board  we  met  a  sub- 
inspector  of  native 
police,  who  told  us  that 
he  had  seen  in  the 
papers  an  account  of 
an  expedition  of  nearly 
a  hundred  men  having 
sailed  from  Sydney  for 
New  Guinea  in  a  ship 
called  the  Afaria  to 
search  for  gold.  ^\'e 
little  knew — especially 
1  -how  soon  we  were  to  be,  in  a  measure, 
associated  with  what  proved  to  be  a  fearful 
tragedy. 

At  this  time  my  father  had  a  survey  camp 
near  a  place  called  Tarn  o'  Shanter's  Point,  on 
the  coast,  some  distance  from  Cardwell.  The 
blacks  in  the  vicinity  were  very  troublesome, 
l)ul  as  a  detachment  of  black  police  were 
[)alrolling   the  district    my  fLUher  and    his    men 


.\A     LEWIS,     WHO     WAS     TWEI.VK 
IMli     OK      lllk     ADVliN  lUKK. 
Crmt'ii  S/iiifios,  Sytfmy. 


;S6 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


did  not  take  more  than  the  usual  precautions- 
keeping  a  good  watch  at  night  time,  especially  at 
the  break  of  day,  when  an  attack  is  most  to  be 
apprehended.  On  the  morning  of  March  3rd 
my  father  and  brother  took  their  horses  and  set 
out  for  the  survey  camp  through  the  bush 
instead  of  along  the  coast.  They  each  led  a 
pack-horse,  carrying  provisions,  telegraph  insula- 
tors, etc.,  and  told  my  mother  that  they  did  not 
expect  to  get  to  the  camp  until  three  in  the 
afternoon,  as  they  meant  to  "  blaze  "  trees  on  a 
new  track  they  were  making. 

The  weather  at  this  time  was  fearfully  hot, 
and  my  mother, 
who  _  was  a  very 
stout  woman, 
suffered  very 
much  from  faint- 
ness.  My  father 
and  brother  had 
been  gone  about 
two  hours,  and  I 
was  sweeping  up 
the  yard,  when  I 
heard  the  sound 
of  a  heavy  fall, 
and,  rushing  in- 
side, found  my 
mother  in  a  dead 
faint.  She  iiad 
evidently  been 
sitting  down,  for 
an  upturned  chair 
was  beside  her. 

I  knew  what  to 
do,  Imt  as  she  did 
nut  recover  con- 
sciousness I  ran 
over  to  the  Hank 
of  New  South 
Wales  near  by, 
and  asked  the 
manager  to  come 
and  .see  her. 

lie  and  the  accountant  were  very  kind,  and 
carried  my  mother  to  her  bed.  She  was  still 
unconscious,  and  her  appearance  and  the  grave 
faces  of  the  men  filled  me  with  terror.  1  asked 
the  manager  if  she  were  dead. 

*'  No,  she  is  not  dead,"  he  said,  "  but  she  is 
very,  very  ill  ;  and  a  messenger  must  be  sent 
to  your  father  to  tell  him  to  return  home 
immediately." 

As  we  were  talking  a  lady  came  in  and  said 
she  would  attend  to  my  mother,  but  that,  as 
there  was  no  medical  man  then  in  (\ardwell,  my 
father  «)Uirlit  tr,  he  sent  for  at  once. 

"  •^''■-  ■    "^aid  to  the  bank  manager,  "if 

you  will  lend  n.e  ycnir  bay  filly,  I'll  go.      I  know 


I    FOUND   MV    MOIHKK    IN    A    DEAD    l-AINT, 


the  way  to  the  camp  along  the  coast  and  I'll  be 
there  long  before  father." 

This  filly  was  a  racehorse,  and  was  quite 
famous  all  about  Cardwell  and  the  Herbert 
River,  winning  nearly  every  race  she  was  entered 

for.     I  had  myself  twice  ridden  her  at  Mr. 's 

request,  for  he  was  about  to  be  married,  and 
wished  to  get  her  used  to  a  side-saddle  and 
skirt. 

"Very  well,"  he  said,  "I'll  lend  you  Jinnibel, 
but  be  careful  she  doesn't  bolt  with  you." 

In  a  few  minutes  I  was  ready,  the  filly 
was  brought  and    my   saddle  put    on    her,   and 

off  I  went,  the 
filly  tearing 
through  the  pretty, 
tree-shaded  streets 
of  Cardwell  at  a 
gallop.  However, 
I  was  a  good 
rider,  and  let  her 
go  as  hard  as  she 
liked  for  three  or 
four  miles. 

I  reached  Tani 
o'  Shanter's  Point 
much  sooner  than 
I  expected.  The 
sun  was  very  hot, 
the  sea  as  smooth 
as  glass,  and  not 
a  leaf  was  stirring. 
So  far,  the  only 
living  things  I  had 
seen  were  a  flock 
of  screaming  white 
cockatoos  and  the 
usual  hideous, 
mud -covered  alli- 
gators, lying  bask- 
ing in  the  sun  at 
the  mouth  of  every 
creek.  I  was  feel- 
ing thirsty,  and 
knowing  there  was  a  native  well  on  the 
north  side  of  the  point  I  rode  up  to  it, 
had  a  long  drink,  let  the  filly  have  one,  and 
then  started  off  again,  turning  towards  the 
beach  down  a  narrow  track  fringed  with 
dense  tropical  vegetation.  So  low  were  some 
of  the  overhanging  boughs  under  which  1 
rode  that  I  had  to  bend  down  over  the  filly's 
shoulder  to  avoid  them — and  then,  ere  I  knew 
it,  came  disaster.  Jinnibel  with  her  dainty 
nose  pushed  aside  a  branch  on  which  was  a  nest 
of  green  tree-ants  -  the  most  vicious  and 
poisonous  ants  in  Australia.  In  an  instant 
thousands  of  the  creatuies  fell  about  my  head 
and  shoulders,  and  a  number  of  them  attacked 


THr:    rRA(;i:i)V   of   the  "maria^'  axi^)   m\-    part   i\   ri' 


5«7 


the  filly's  tender  nose  and  ears.  She  gave  one 
agonized  squeal  of  terror  and,  putting  her  head 
down  between  her  forelegs,  bucked  madly.  I 
kept  my  seat  for  a  minute  or  two,  and  then  was 
shot  out  of  my  saddle  like  a  stone  from  a 
catapult.  I  must  have  fallen  on  my  head  and 
lost  consciousness  for  some  time,  for  when  I 
opened  my  eyes  again  1  found  I  was  in  a  myall 
blacks'  camp,  surrounded  by  si.xty  or  seventy 
savages,  all  armed  with  spears,  waddies,  and 
shields.  A  filthy  old  "gin"  was  holding  my 
hand,  and  as  soon  as  I  was  able  to  sit  up  gave 
me  a  drink  of  water  from  a  gourd  shell.  Then, 
to  my  intense 
astonishment,  a 
tall  black  fellow, 
almost  naked, 
spoke  to  me  in 
English,  and 
asked  me  when  I 
had  left  Cardwell. 

"About  eleven 
o'clock,"  I  re- 
plied. 

"  Where  is  in- 
spector and  his 
troopers  ?"  was 
his  next  question. 

"I  don't  know,'' 
I  answered. 

He  came  close 
up  to  me  and 
savagely  swung 
his  waddy  over 
and  around  my 
head.  "I'll  kill 
you  if  you  tell  me 
any  lies,  and  I'll 
kill  your  father 
and  brother  too.  I 
am  Batavia  River 
Tommy.  Do  you 
know  me  ? " 

I  did  know  him.  He  was  a  deserter  from 
the  black  police,  and  there  was  a  reward  of 
fifty  pounds  offered  for  him,  dead  or  alive,  for 
having  murdered  two  "town  "  (tame)  blacks  in 
Townsville. 

"  Yes,  I  know  you,"  I  said,  "  but  why  do  you 
wish  to  kill  my  father  and  brother  ?  ]\Iy  father 
and  his  men  never  shoot  at  the  myalls." 

He  looked  at  me  steadily  for  a  moment  or 
two,  and  then  asked  me  when  I  had  last  seen 
the  police  patrol.  I  replied,  "  About  a  week 
ago,  in  Cardwell." 

At  this  moment  another  powerful  black  made 
his  appearance.  He  was  a  most  ferocious-look- 
ing creature,  with  his  great  shock  of  coaly  hair 
and  long  beard   ornamented  with  little  tufts  of 


"he  savagely  suxng  his  waddy  over  my  head. 


white  down,  plucked  from  seagulls'  breasts. 
He  said  something  in  a  very  e.xcited  voice,  and 
in  an  instant  they  all  began  jabbering  together, 
whilst  some  of  them  every  now  and  then  looked 
at  me,  and  I  every  moment  expected  to  be 
either  waddied  or  speared.  Then  suddenly  all 
the  men  rushed  off  towards  the  beach,  and 
quite  twenty  women  and  piccaninnies  emerged 
from  the  scrub  and  gathered  round  me.  One 
of  the  women  seized  me  by  the  hair  and  dragged 
me  to  my  feet,  whilst  the  others  punched, 
thumped,  and  beat  me  with  switches.  Then  I 
was   pushed,  or  rather  dragged,  along  by  them 

to  another  part 
of  the  scrub, 
where  there  were 
more  women  and 
children  squatted 
on  the  ground, 
with  a  number  of 
dogs.  The  woman 
who  had  first 
seized  me  still 
grasped  my  hair 
and  shook  me 
viciously  every 
now  and  then, 
whilst  the  children 
showered  blows 
upon  my  back 
and  shoulders. 
Then  I  was  sud- 
denly thro  w  n 
down  and  my 
clothing  torn  from 
my  body.  By  this 
time  I  was  m  a 
dazed  condition, 
but  mechanically 
t(jok  a  kangaroo- 
s  k  i  n  the  old 
"gin"  handed  me 
and  fastened  it 
round  me.  Repulsive  as  she  was,  I  clung  to  her 
hand  for  protection,  and  as  I  did  so  a  vicious 
dog  seized  me  by  the  calf  of  the  leg 
and  gave  me  a  truly  terrible  bite,  for  his 
teeth  were  as  sharp  as  needles.  The  sight  of 
the  blood  streaming  from  my  leg  seemed 
to  delight  my  tormentors,  who  danced  and 
screamed  with  laughter.  I  covered  my  eyes 
with  one  hand  and  tried  to  pray,  for  I  was  now 
certain  I  shouKl  be  killed  and  eaten,  or  perhaps 
be  kept  captive,  like  two  ladies  of  whom  my  father 
had  told  me  — -Mrs.  Bitkcthlcy  and  Mrs.  Fraser. 
Both  were  survivors  from  shipwrecks.  They  were 
captured  by  the  blacks  of  the  Cardwell  district, 
and  saw  other  survivors  killed  and  eaten  before 
their  eves,  while  their  sufferings  were  fearful. 


588 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


Presently  my  hand  was  snatched  away  from 
my  eyes,  and  one  of  the  women  held  up  some- 
thing to  my  face  with  a  grin.  It  was  a  human 
hand  !  Sick  with  horror,  I  again  covered  my 
eyes,  but  the  woman  who  had  first  seized  me, 
and  who  seemed  to  be  my  chief  tormentor, 
gripped  me  by  one  arm  and  another  and 
younger  woman  by  the  other.  Dragging  me  to 
my  feet,  they  pulled  me  to  a  cleared  spot  about 
twenty  yards  away.  In  the  middle  of  the  space 
was  a  heap  of  some  kind  covered  over  with 
large  stri'ps  of  ti-tree  bark.  Suddenly  my  chief 
persecutor  let  go  my  arm  and  raised  the  cover- 
ing, and  I  saw  a  sight  that  I  can  never  forget 
— the  mangled  remains  of  a  number  of  white 
men  !  Then  I  felt  a  deadly  faintness  and 
remembc'red  no  more. 

How  long  I  was  unconscious  I  cannot  tell, 
but  wlK-n  I  came  to  my  senses  again  I  found 
myself  lying  under  a  stunted  tree,  with  the  old 
woman  and  four  boys  round  me.  I  was  tor- 
lured  with  thirst  an'd  pointed  to  my  mouth,  and 
presently  water  was  brought  to  me  in  a  calabash- 
gourd,  such  as  Queensland 
myall  blacks  use  when  travelling 
through  waterless  country.  It 
contained  over  a  pint.  I  drank 
It  all,  and  then  the  old  "gin" 
came  ovt-r  to  me  and  began  to 
rub  the  l)ruises  and  cuts  on  my 
body  with  a  large  piece  of 
dugong  fat.     Then  she  hobbled 

off,    only    to    return     in    a    few- 
minutes  with  my  riding-skirt  and 

coat,  one  storking,  and  my  hat. 
I    eagerly    seized    the    precious 

garments,  and  then  tried  to  tell 

her  I  wanted  my  boots.     I  think 

she    understood,    for   she    again 

went  over  and   s|)oke  to  a   big, 

fat     woman,     who     was     seated 

near  by,  but  evidently  my  boots 

had    been    carried    off    l)y    the 

dogs,  for   she   returned  shaking 

her    head.       Then    she    rubbed 

my  feet    very  carefully  with  the 

dugong  fat,  whilst  1  tied  my  one 

stocking    round    my   leg   where 

the  dog  had  bitten  me.     It  had 

already   swollen  very  much,  but 

I  was  scarcely  conscious  of  any 

pain.    I  now  began  to  try  and  col- 
lect my  sen.se.s,  and  the  hope  of 

escape  entered  my  heart.     The 

main   party  of  the  women  and 

children    were    lying   or    sitting 

about  the  edge  of  the  camj),  evi- 

dintly  leaving  me  to  the  rnie  of 

the  old  woman  and  the  four  boys. 


Suddenly  there  came  a  loud,  peculiar  cry — 
something  between  a  cooee  and  the  iiowl  of 
a  dingo,  and  in  two  seconds  I  was  alone,  every 
one  of  the  blacks  disappearing  as  if  by  magic, 
the  old  crone  following  the  rest  with  wonderful 
speed  considering  her  age  and  emaciated  figure. 
So  frantic  had  been  their  rush  that  they  had 
left  all  their  paraphernalia — dilly-bags,  fishing- 
nets,  gourds,  etc.,  lying  scattered  about.  A 
wild  hope  that  succour  was  near  made  nie 
spring  to  my  feet  and  cooee  with  all  my 
might,  but  no  answer  came.  I  felt  sure  that 
the  sudden  flight  of  the  blacks  was  caused  by 
the  native  police ;  and  so  after  waiting  five 
minutes  and  cooeeing  repeatedly  I  resolutely 
struck  into  the  jungle  and  made  for  the  beach, 
for  I  should  have  gone  mad  with  terror  had  I 
been  compelled  to  remain  in  that  awful  spot  for 
a  few  minutes  longer. 

I  had  scarcely  gone  more  than  two  hundred 
yards  when  I  came  across  an  old  cattle-track, 
which  I  followed,  and  after  an  hour  or  so  of 
misery  I  emerged  out  upon  the  beach,  almost 


•  AT    FIVE   o'clock    I    KEACHED   THE   CAMP.' 


THE    TRAGEDY    OF     THE    "MARL\"    AM)     MV     I'ARl'     1\     11 


589 


exhausted,  and  drenched  with  perspiration. 
Making  lor  a  huge  pile  of  drift  timber,  so  as  to 
hide  myself  and  rest,  I  was  just  crawling  into 
the  thickest  part  when  I  nearly  fainted  with 
joy- -two  horsemen  were  coming  along  the 
beach  riding  at  a  gallop  !  In  a  few  minutes  they 
were  near  enough  for  me  to  recognise  them  as 
native  police.  Each  man  was  carrying  a  carbine, 
and  had  his  cartridge-belt  strapped  round  his 
waist.  When  about  two  hundred  yards  away 
from  me  they  suddenly  turned  sharply  off  and 
rode  up  the  beach  into  the  scrub,  either  not 
hearing  my  shouts  or  disregarding  me  in  their 
eagerness  to  overtake  the  fleeing  blacks.  (I 
learnt  afterwards  that  the  patrol — twelve  troopers 
and  an  officer — had  split  up  into  twos  and 
threes,  so  as  to  "round  up"  their  prey  more 
effectually.) 

After  half  an  hour's  rest  I  set  out  along  the 
firm,  hard  sand,  and  about  three  in  the  afternoon 
reached  a  native  well,  which  I  knew  was  only 
two  miles  from  my  father's  camp.  It  was 
merely  a  narrow,  deep  hole  in  the  midst  of 
some    reddibh  granite  rocks.     However,  it  was 


full,  and  I  had  a  long,  long  drink,  and  started  off 
again,  when  1  drew  back  in  horror.  Three  dead 
black  fellows  were  lying  almo.st  on  the  path — 
evidently  shot  by  the  native  police. 

At  five  o'clock  I  reached  the  camp— an  hour 
later  than  my  father.  He  was  overjoyed  at  my 
escape  and  at  once  saddled  his  horse  and  with 
two  of  his  men  rode  off  to  see  my  mother, 
leaving  me  with  my  brother  and  the  rest  of  the 
men,  who  boiled  me  a  billy  of  tea  and  gave  me 
some  food.  No  one  at  the  camp  had  seen  a 
single  myall  black  for  the  past  two  days,  nor 
had  the  troopers  called  there  as  they  usually  did 
when  on  patrol,  neither  was  any  firing  heard. 

Next  day  my  father  returned  (my  mother 
being  quite  recovered),  and  told  us  that  Cardwell 
was  agog  with  excitement.  A  ship  named  the 
Maria  had  been  wrecked  on  the  coast  and 
many  of  the  survivors  muidered  by  the  blacks. 
The  story  of  this  shipwreck  was  in  a  way  a 
sequel  to  my  own  adventure,  for  it  told  the 
history  of  the  human  remains  I  had  seen  in  the 
blacks'  camp.  I  shall  relate  the  story  as  briefly 
and  clearly  as  possible: 


II.— THE    STORY    OF    THE    "MARIA. 


Seventy-five  men,  nearly  a  third  of  whom 
were  experienced  diggers  hailing  from  the 
Australian  Colonies,  Tasmania,  and  New 
Zealand,  being  thoroughly  satisfied  as  to  the 
existence  of  alluvial  gold  in  New  Guinea — no 
rich  quartz  reefs  were  discovered  there  until  ten 
years  ago — had  each  subscribed  fifty  pounds, 
and  bought  and  fitted  out  an  old  collier  brig 
named  the  Maria.  They  provided  themselves 
with  an  ample  supply  of  provisions,  firearms, 
and  all  other  necessaries,  and  after  some 
dissension  sailed  from  Sydney  on  the  ■25th 
January.  The  captain,  however,  was  incom- 
petent, and  before  many  days  had  passed  there 
was  serious  friction  between  him,  his  officers 
and  crew,  and  a  section  of  the  passengers. 

Ten  days  after  leaving  Sydney  a  great  storm 
came  on  and  the  brig  had  many  sails  blown 
away.  Moreover,  she  began  to  leak  to  such  an 
alarming  extent  that  the  crew  tried  to  force  the 
captain  to  turn  back,  and  the  diggers  on  board, 
although  anxious  to  get  to  New  Ciuinea  as 
quickly  as  possible,  induced  him  to  put  into 
Moreton  Bay — the  entry  port  to  the  city  of 
Brisbane — where  some  repairs  were  effected. 
It  was  there  that  the  few  resolute,  hardy  diggers 
tried  to  rid  themselves  of  their  worthless  fellow- 
passengers,  by  offering  them  twenty-five  pounds 
each,  but  the  offer  was  refused. 

So  the  ill-fated,  clumsy  old  brig  sailed  again, 
and  for  some  days  all  went  well,  though  the 
drunken,  reckless  cajjlain  did   not  even   possess 


a  detailed  chart  of  the  Queensland  coast,  and 
boastingly  asserted  that  he  "  could  feel  his  way 
along  the  Great  Barrier  Reef  by  letting  the  brig 
rub  her  starboard  side  against  it  I  "  The  second 
mate  was,  I  believe,  not  only  a  good  seaman, 
but  a  competent  navigator,  and  urged  the 
diggers  to  force  the  captain  to  anchor  at  night 
time  when  sailing  through  the  dangers  of  the 
Barrier  Reef.  The  passengers  asked  this  officer 
— the  first  mate  being  unable  to  navigate -if  he 
would  take  charge  of  the  ship  provided  they 
made  the  captain  relincjuish  command,  but  he, 
seaman-like,  refused  to  lend  himself  to  what 
was  practically  mutiny.  At  the  same  time  he 
told  them  frankly  that  he  did  not  think  the  brig 
would  ever  reach  New  Guinea,  and  he  and  the 
boatswain  quietly  set  to  work  to  get  the  boats 
in  order,  feeling  sure  that  the  reckless  manner 
in  which  the  captain  was  handling  the  vessel 
would  result  in  disaster.  Poor  fellows  !  They 
deserved  a  better  fate  than  was  in  store  for  them. 
At  seven  o'clock  on  the  evening  of  the  25th 
February  the  vessel  was  tearing  along  before  a 
strong  breeze  through  a  reef-studded  part  of  the 
sea  inside  the  Barrier  Reef.  The  second  mate 
and  several  of  the  diggers  can.e  aft  and  formally 
requested  the  captain  to  anchor  for  the  night, 
for  it  was  not  only  blowing  but  raining  heavily. 
He  refused,  and  threatened  to  put  the  officer  in 
irons  for  insubordination.  At  midnight,  in  the 
midst  of  a  furious  rain  stjuall  and  when  most  of 
the  passengers   were  deep  in   slumber,  the  brig 


59° 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


.trnrk  on  Bramble  Reef  about  twenty-five  miles  water,  and  on  them  ^yere  a  number  of  men,  who 

struck  on  bramoie  Keer,  auou  y  ^.^    ^^^   ^^^^   ^^    ^^^^    ^^^^^  ^^^.^^    ^^^   ^^^  ^^^^_ 

^'"''T   dreadful    scene    followed,    although    the  crowded    boats    or   on    the    hastily-constructed 

di.trs  and  the  c  ew  tned   to  do  their  best  to  rafts,  believing  that  the  capta.n  would  keep  his 

She  second   mate,  who  rose  nobly  to  the  promise  to  return  and  rescue  them.     Every  one 

occa  ion-after  felling  the  drunken  captain  to  of    these    unfortunates    penshed-either    from 


the     deck     by    a 

blow  between   the 

eyes.      Sea     after 

sea    tumbled     on 

board    and    some 

of  the  people  were 

swept  over,  but  at 

last     three     boats 

were    lowered 

safely,  and    the 

captain,  taking  the 

best     of     them, 

with    seven   hands 

in  her,  pushed  off 

amid  the  curses  of 

the     rest     of     the 

crew   and    i)assen 

gers,  shouting  out 

that  he  was  going 

to     Cardwell     for 

assistance.     He 

little  knew  that  he 

was   going    to    his 

death  —  a     death 

everyone    after- 
wards   said     he 

justly  deserved, 

terrible  as  it   was, 

for    his    cowardly 

desertion    of     his 

ship   and   p  a  s  - 

sengers. 

Meanwhile     the 

rest  of    the    crew, 
with    the    two 

mates  and  boatswain,  finding  that  the  two  other 
l)oats  would  not  hold  more  than  thirty  persons, 
constructed  two  rafts.  They  were  ably  assisted 
by  the  diggers ;  the  rest  of  the  passengers  were 
too  terrified  to  do  more  than  frantically  call 
upon  the  men  in  the  already  overladen  boats  to 
take  them  off.  The  work  of  making  the  rafts 
took  many  hours,  for  every  now  and  then  a 
tremendous  breaker  would  sweep  over  the 
wrerk,  and  everyone  had  to  cling  on  to  the 
rigging  to  save  themselves  from  being  swept 
overboard.  The  boats  stood  by,  awaiting  the 
completion  of  the  rafts. 

At  six  o'clock  the  two  rafts  were  launched, 
just  as  the  Afa/ia,  now  almost  in  halves,  rolled 
over  the  ledge  of  the  reef  and  sank,  with  some 
of  her  crew  and  several  of  the  diggers  still  on 
'  ~""      The  brig's  two  masts  remained  above 


or 


by 


THE   SECOND   MATE   ROSE   NOBLY   TO  THE   OCCASION— AH  KK    KELI.ING   THE 
DRUNKEN   CAPTAIN    TO   THE    DECK." 


l)oard. 


starvation 
sharks. 

After    leaving 
the     wreck     the 
people  in  the  two 
boats   left   their 
comrades    on    the 
rafts  and  made  for 
the    shore.       The 
sai  1  or  s    in    the 
boats    wanted     to 
tow    the  rafts,  but 
the    terrified    pas- 
sengers would  not 
let  them,  and  one 
of     the     survivors 
wrote     as    follows 
to     the     Brisbane 
Courier :  "  ^^^e,  on 
one   of   the    rafts, 
had    the   sea   and 
wind  in  our  favour 
till  we  were  within 
six    miles    of    the 
mainland  ;    then  it 
took  us  ten  hours 
to  make  an  island, 
where  we   landed. 
Three  tins  of  pre- 
served meat  and  a 
little     biscuit    was 
all    the    food    we 
had.       Upon    this 
small  stock,  helped 
out      with      roots, 
twenty-eight    persons    lived    until    March   2nd, 
when  we  left  the  island,  and,  after  pulling  for 
a  day,  reached  the  shore  near  Cardwell." 

The  captain's  boat  landed  upon  the  beach 
some  miles  from  Tarn  o'  .Shanter's  Point  (near 
my  father's  camp),  and  its  occupants  were  there 
attacked  by  a  large  number  of  blacks.  The 
captain  and  four  of  his  men  were  speared  and 
clubbed  to  death,'  but  the  other  three  men 
managed  to  gain  the  jungle  and  escape.  Two 
of  them  reached  Cardwell,  the  third  either  died 
from  exhaustion,  or  was  drowned,  or  seized  by 
an  alligator  when  crossing  one  of  the  many  tidal 
creeks.  Both  the  survivors  had  been  wounded 
by  the  blacks,  and  when  they  reached  the  settle- 
ment were  only  able  to  crawl. 

We  afterwards  learned  from  the  black  police- 
inspector  that  the  human  remains  which  I  had 


'1HL<:    TRA(il<:i)V    OF    THE    "MARIA"    AND     M  \      I'AKl'     IN     I  l\ 


59^ 


seen  when  captured  by  the  blacks  were  those 
of  the  captain  of  the  Maria  and  the  four  sailors 
who  were  killed  with  him. 

Meanwhile,      Lieutenant      Sabbin,     of     the 
Basilisk,    had    set    out    with    his    small    prize- 


THE    CAPTAIN    AND    KOUR    OF    HIS    MEN    WERE    SPEARED, 


crew  of  six  bluejackets  from  the  captured 
"  blackbirder,"  Chance,  to  assist  in  the  search 
for  the  survivors.  He  was  accompanied  by 
some  gentlemen  from  Cardwell.  They  found 
the  captain's  boat  about  five  miles  from  my 
father's  survey  camp.  She  was  lying  on  the 
beach,  and  the  footprints  of  her  ill-fated 
occupants  were  traced  up  into  the  edge  of 
the  forest  to  the  point  where  they  had  been 
attacked. 

Lieutenant  Sabbin  and  the  man-o'-war's  men 
had  just  launched  the  boat  belonging  to  the 
Maria  to  take  her  in  tow,  when  they  saw  a 
number  of  myall  blacks  advancing  to  attack 
them.      They  came  on    most    valorously,    and 


only  after  several  of  them  had  been  shot  down 
by  the  sailors  did  they  desist  from  throwing 
spears  and  stones,  and  retreat,  carrying  off  with 
them  their  dead  and  wounded. 

Then  H.M.S.  Basilisk  came  up  from  Sydney 
with  a  merchant  steamer 
named  the  Tinotiee,  and  they 
carefully  examined  the  coast, 
whilst  the  shore  parties 
searched  the  scrubs,  creeks, 
and  rivers. 

At  a  place  called  Cooper's 
Point,  about  eighty  miles  from 
Cardwell,  the  Basilisk  came 
across  the  second  raft  and 
eight  more  survivors.  Five 
others  had  been  washed  over- 
board, one  went  insane  and 
committed  suicide,  and  four 
others  died  after  reaching 
land. 

The  blacks  on  this  part  of 
the  coast  were  very  numerous, 
but  belonged  to  quite  a  dif- 
ferent tribe  to  those  at  Tarn 
o'  Shanter's  Point,  and  instead 
of  massacring  the  shipwrecked 
men  they  treated  them  with  the 
greatest  kindness,  and  caught 
and  cooked  fish  and  kangaroos 
for  their  use. 

For  many  weeks  the  search 
was  kept  up,  a  third  vessel, 
the  Gover/ior  Blackall,  joining 
in  with  a  crew  of  volunteers 
and  Sydney  Water  Police. 
For  nearly  one  hundred  miles  the  savage 
coast  was  examined,  and  at  one  point,  near 
Shoal  Rivulet,  the  captain  of  the  Blackall  found 
six  bodies,  while  in  the  bush  another  four 
bodies  were  discovered. 

For  a  long  time  the  hope  was  entertained 
that  some  of  the  missing  men  were  still  alive, 
captives  to  the  blacks,  and  the  native  police 
visited  hundreds  of  camps  up  and  down  the 
coast,  but  without  result. 

In  conclusion  I  may  add  that  Batavia  River 
Tommy  was  never  captured,  and  that  the 
filly,  Jinnibel,  after  bolting  from  me,  made 
her  way  to  the  station  where  she  was  born  — a 
hundred  and  forty  miles  from  Cardwell ! 


The    Red    Pig   of   Poora. 


^*. 


f  CHANCE  meeting  a  day  or  two 
ago  with  Bethune,  of  iny  old  regi- 
ment, on  the  steps  of  the  Junior  led 
to  the  revival — among  a  hundred 
"™  other  reminiscences — of  the  merry 
old  days  when  we  were  subalterns  together  at 
Fyzabad,  in  the  North-West  Provinces,  and  of 
our  mutual  rivalry  during  the  whole  of  one  pig- 
sticking season,  culminating  in  a  friendly  wager 
as  to  which  of  us  should  hold  the  supremacy 
on  the  final  day  -a  day  of  which,  but  for  his 
intervention  in  the  very  nick  of  time,  I  doubt  if 
I  should  be  here  to  tell  the  tale. 

I  he  deep  frilled  |)unkah  waved  wearily  over 
the  long  mess-tal)le  of  the  looth  Regiment,  on 
one  of  the  most  stifling  nights  in  the  middle  of 
June,  1H86.  There  was  a  fair  gathering  of 
white  mess-jackets  for  the  time  of  year,  allowing 
for  ga|)S  occasioned  by  leave  or  sickness.  Dinner 
had  pa.s.sed  as  a  sort  of  dreary  duty,  while  con- 
versation languished  until,  after  the  cloth  was 
cleared  aufl  the  wine  had  passed  over  the 
polished  maiiogany  table,  crowded  with  century- 
''''  'i  •hance  remark  touched  the  topic  of 

f'' " '"^  pig  slicking— now  nearly  over-    and 

interest  became    more    general    and   sustained. 
It  l>ad  b,(i,  r,n  exceptionally  gf)od  year  lor  the 


Bv  Captain  R.  V.   D.vwcfON,'  l.\te   of 
THE  Indian  Staff  Corps. 

A  pig-sticking  adventure  in  India.  Up  till 
practically  the  last  day  of  the  season  the 
totals  of  two  subalterns  were  equal,  and  they 
laid  a  wager  as  to  which  of  them  would  come 
out  top  in  the  number  of  "  first  spears."  Then 
the  "  Red  Pig  of  Poora  " — a  most  redoubtable 
and  ferocious  veteran  of  enormous  size — 
appeared  on  the  scene.  The  rivals  both  gave 
chase,  and  though  the  author  secured  '•  first 
spear"  and  won  the  wager,  he  undoubtedly 
owed  his  life  to  his  defeated  comrade. 


game  at  P^yzabad,  but  now  the  daily  and  hourly 
gathering  clouds  were  an  unmistakable  warning 
that  the  monsoon  was  at  hand,  and  rendered  it 
doubtful  if  we  should  be  able  to  secure  even  one 
more  day. 

Bethune  had  been  secretary  of  the  Tent 
Club  for  the  past  year,  and,  pulling  out  a  pocket- 
book,  began  to  give  us  some  details  of  past 
days'  sport. 

"  Yes,"  he  resumed,  musingly,  after  some 
muttered  calculations — "yes.  We've  got  forty 
pig  altogether  this  year  up  to  date,  and  tliat's 
the  best  bag  at  Fyzabad  for  the  last  five  years. 
But  if  only  the  rain  holds  off  and  we  can  get  in 
a  day  at  Sarsinda  on  Thursday,  Mahabulli 
assures  me  that  we  ought  to  get  four  or  five 
there,  and  that  would  make  it  quite  a  record 
season.  First  spears,  eh  ?  Let's  see.  Nine  to 
you,  Bobbie" — he  glanced  at  me  — "  nine  to 
myself,  seven  to  Knyvett,  six  to  Neilson,  five 
to  you,  O'Hara,  and  the  rest,  two — one — 
one " 

I  looked  up  laughingly  at  Bethune.  "  So  it's 
still  a  dead-heat  between  you  and  me,  Alan  ? 
Shall  we  have  a  level  gold  niohur  between  us  as 
to  which  comes  out  top  on  Thursday  —  if  the 
meet  comes  off?  " 

"  Right  you  are  !  "  he  answered,  |)r(iinptly. 


ll: 


)    ri( 


Ol 


I'OORA. 


593 


The  gold  mohui",  I  should  explain,  is  the 
extinct  and  almost  legendary  gold  coin  of  India, 
valued  at  sixteen  rupees,  and  now  only  seen  as 
a  curio  and  heard  of  as  a  unit  in  betting. 

The  next  day,  ^Vednesday,  broke  and  re- 
mained dull  and  cloudy,  l)ut  still  the  rain  did 
hold  off,  so  that  it  seemed  worth  while  making 
preparations  for  what  was  bound  to  be  our  final 
day's  sport  on  the  morrow.  Sarsinda,  where 
the  meet  was  proposed,  was  ten  miles  off,  down 
the  River  Gogra,  a  vast  sandy  tract  on  the  river's 
bank,  covered  with  high  \iZ.v'\x\gjhow  and  jungle 
grass  and  intersected  with  nullahs,  with  a  few- 
riverside  hamlets  and  sparse  cultivation.  It  was 
too  far  off  to  reach  in  time  on  the  morning  on 
which  the  commencement  of  business  was 
intended,  so  dinner,  tents,  and  horses  were  sent 
out  the  night  before,  while  the  participating 
sportsmen  made  their  way  thither  during  the 
late  afternoon,  aboard  of  any  species  of  convey- 
ance that  was  handy.  l"he  Gunners'  drag 
accommodated  five  or  six,  and  the  remainder 
foregathered  by  ones  and  twos  in  two-wheeled 
carts  of  every  degree  of  smartness  or  disrepair. 

It  was  a  close,  .  dull  evening — the  moon 
showing  dimly  and  grudgingly  through  heavy, 
heaped-up  masses  of  cloud  —as  Bethune  drove 
me  out  in  his  trap.  Leaving  cantonments, 
we  first  passed  through  the  reeking  city  of 
I'yzabad  and  then  into  the  open  country 
again,  bringing  a  breath  of  purer,  cooler  air  ; 
past  the  outskirts  of  the  thrice-holy  Ajudhia, 
l)ut  well  within  sound  of  the  drums,  gongs,  and 
conches  of  its  thousand 
temples;  and  through  the 
ruined  and  deserted 
stronghold  of  Darshan- 
nagar.  Then  our  route 
opened  out  on  a  long 
stretch  of  sandy  river-road 
until  a  dark  clump  of 
mangoes  loomed  up  in 
the  distance,  and  in  their 
neighbourhood  one  be- 
came aware  of  the  twinkle 
of  camp-fires,  the  clatter 
of  cooking,  and,  finally, 
the  spreading  canvas  of  a 
grou[i  of  small  tents.  The 
pleasant  gurgle  of  running 
water  proclaimed  the  pre- 
sence of  the  river  barely 
a  stone's  throw  away. 

The  khnnsama  appeared 
as  half-a-do/.en  traps  drove 
up,  and,  with  a  low 
salaam,  iiKjuired  :  "  At 
what  time  shall  I  serve 
dinner  to  your  honours?" 

Vol.  xi.— 75. 


"At  once,  Khuram  Khan,  at  once  I"  was  ihe 
general  exclamation,  and  Bethune  added,  "Yes; 
there  are  twelve  of  us,  I  think,  as  1  told  you, 
Khuram  Khan." 

Within  ten  minutes  the  dozen  of  us  were 
seated,  at  a  long  camp-table  under  a  spreading 
mango  and  served  with  a  sufficiently  sumptuous 
meal,  considering  the  appliances,  surroundings, 
and  limited  notice.  We  were  none  of  us 
minded  to  sit  up  late,  in  view  of  an  early  start 
in  the  morning,  and  just  one  cheroot  in  a  long 
chair  beneath  the  shifty  moonlight  was  the  most 
that  anyone  contemplated  as  a  tribute  to 
digestion. 

A  shadowy  figure  approached  the  circle  thus 
employed  in  intermittent  chat,  and  his  profound 
obeisance  aroused  attention  and  response  from 
one  and  all.  It  was  old  MahabuUi,  shikari  of 
the  Fyzabad  Tent  Club  beyond  the  memory  of 
the  oldest  resident  there  present — a  picturesque, 
patriarchal  figure  with  flowing  beard  almost  as 
white  as  his  snowy  garments,  alert  aquiline 
features,  and  steady  steely  eyes.  Yet  to  see 
the  old  man  sit  down  and  ride  on  his  bony, 
broken-down  iat  (pony)  when  any  pig  were 
about,  over  the  most  fearsome  ground,  as  if  he 
had  a  dozen  necks  to  spare,  was  truly  an 
object-lesson  to  many  a  younger,  if  not  more 
fearless,  man. 

"Ah!  your  honours,"  he  began  in  eager 
accents,  "  I  have  khahar  (news)  indeed,  which 
promises  well  for  to-morrow.  Four  boars  1 
know  of,  all  marked  down  in  favourable  positions. 


"  THE   BOAK  OF   HOARS  IS   HERE— THE  BED   PIG  OF   POOKA 


594 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


But,  besides  these  — only  think  oi  \\.\—the  boar 
of  boars  is  here  too— tlie  Red  J'ig  of  Poora. 
Eive  years  it  is  since  he  was  last  in  the  district, 
before  any  of  j^— sahibs  of  the  regiment- 
hunted  here.  But  the  Major  Sahib  once  knew, 
and  will  doubtless  remember  him?  " 

He  turned  a  look  of  eager  inquiry  towards  a 
slight,  wiry,  middle  aged  man  seated  amongst 
us  — Knyvett,  the  police  superintendent  of  the 
district— hard  rider,  keen  sportsman,  good  fellow, 
and  president  of  the  Tent  Club. 

"Is  it  not  so,  sahib?"  he  persisted.  "If  I 
mistake  not,  on  one  occasion  he  even  tasted 
your  honour's  spear?" 

"  By  Jove  !  Mahabulli,"  answered  Knyvett, 
alertly,  "  you  don't  mean  to  say  so  !  Yes,  I  did 
just  get  a  spear  into  him  once,  but  only  a  touch, 
though  I  have  ridden  on  the  heels  of  the  old 
beggar  many  a  time.  He  used  generally  to  lie 
up  at  Poora,  across  the  river,  didn't  he  ?  Yes, 
It's  quite  five  years  since  I  saw  him  last.  I 
thought  some  rascal  must  have  shot  him." 

"  Xay,  sahib,  nay,"  resumed  Mahabulli.  "  He 
lives  for  braver  sport  than  that.  Only  last  night 
he  crossed  the  river  from  Poora,  and  is  now 
lying  among  the  jhmv  in  the  bend  of  the  river 
below  Sitarampur.  My  men  are  all  around  him 
and  he  must  race  for  his  life  to  morrow." 

After  Knyvett  and  Bethune  had  discussed 
with  the  veteran  shikari  all  plans  and  pro- 
spects for  the  morrow's  campaign  the  old 
man  took  his  leave,  and  then  the  former  was 
perf(Hce  constrained  to  recount  to  the  rest  of  us 
the  details  of  many  a  former  fruitless  gallop 
after  the  Red  Pig  of  Poora.  A  most  redoubt- 
able ijrute  indeed,  according  to  all  accounts,  of 
singular  ferocity,  matchless  cunning,  and 
miinense  size,  the  last  accentuated  by  the 
thick  tuft  of  coarse  reddish  bristles — whence 
his  sobrifjuet— running  all  down  his  back  and 
standing  out  from  his  gaunt  grey  hide. 

One  by  one  we  threw  away  our  cheroot-ends 
and  withdrew  to  our  respective  tents,  so  that 
half  an  hour  later  the  camp  was  wrapped  in 
silence,  save  for  the  occasional  hoot  of  a  startled 
owl,  the  plaintive  note  of  the  ice-bird,  the  howl 
of  a  prowling  jackal,  or  the  stamp  of  a  restless 
iiorse. 

By  five  in  the  morning  the  khansama  and  his 
myrmidons  were  stirring  to  prepare  the  matu- 
tinal tea  and  eggs,  horses  were  being  saddled, 
and  riders,  booted  and  spurred,  completed  a 
hasty  toilet  in  the  open.  Half  an  hour  later— 
as  a  watery  sun  rose  a  hand's  breadth  above  the 
horizon's  rim,  only  to  be  engulfed  in  a  sullen, 
lowering  rain-cloud— the  dozen  or  so  horsemen, 
lollowed  by  as  many  saises  leading  spare  horses, 
filfd  out  of  camp  en  route  for  the  first  beat. 
I'weiuy  minutes'  leisurely  riding  brought  us  to 


an  open  space  on  the  rivers  bank,  where, 
marshalled  by  Mahabulli,  a  couple  of  hundred 
coolies  and  two  elephants  were  waiting,  destined 
to  beat  the  thick  grass  and  jhoiv  jungle  which 
harboured  our  quarry. 

The  coolies  were  soon  organized  into  a  line  a 
mile  or  more  in  length,  the  elephants  on  either 
flank,  and  the  horsemen  distributed  in  three 
groups  of  four  spears  each  on  right,  left,  and 
centre.  Then — with  every  variety  of  yell  from 
two  hundred  leathern  lungs,  the  thumping  of 
tom-toms,  and  the  rustle  and  crunch  of  under- 
growth— the  line  advanced  (horsemen  twenty 
yards  in  front)  and  the  first  beat  had  begun. 

MahabuUi's  promise  of  pig  was  amply  justi- 
fied. Ere  half  a  mile  was  traversed  a  frenzy  of 
shouting  reached  us  from  the  right,  and  an  open 
vista  soon  revealed  the  party  on  that  flank 
stringing  out  in  pursuit.  Five  minutes  later  my 
own  group  on  the  left  was  similarly  engaged  on 
the  heels  of  a  small  but  active  boar,  who,  after  a 
merry  chase,  died  game,  grim,  and  fighting,  as 
few  beasts  but  a  boar  can  die.  Numerous  and 
varied  were  the  runs  that  morning.  More  than 
one  wily  one,  "jinking  "  and  lying  low,  got  clean 
away  and  saved  his  bacon  for  another  year,  and 
many  a  fleet  but  delusive  sow  was  relinquished 
amidst  execration,  on  disclosing  her  identity, 
after  having  inveigled  her  over-ardent  pursuers 
both  far  and  fast.  By  ten  o'clock,  however, 
when  a  halt  was  called  for  breakfast  under  a 
solitary  but  shady  //////  tree,  the  bag  amounted 
to  three  stout  boars,  who  had  all  run  well  and 
died  dauntlessly.  And  when  the  tale  was 
recounted  it  transpired  that  I  had  got  one 
first  spear  and  Bethune  another— so  that 
the  momentous  issue  between  us  was  still 
undecided. 

Though  the  usual  scorching  rays  of  the  sun 
were  veiled,  the  dense  mugginess  of  the  atmo- 
sphere was  even  more  exhausting  and  enervat- 
ing, and  an  hour's  rest  after  breakfast  was 
welcome,  if  not  necessary.  During  this  time 
we  all  lay  about  and  smoked  in  various  attitudes 
of  abandon  or  repletion,  while  the  horses  were 
rubbed  down  and  fed.  Then  a  fresh  start  was 
called,  and  as  Bethune  and  I  were  drawn  for 
the  same  group,  which  also  contained  Knyvett 
and  Temple,  another  subaltern  of  the  regiment, 
I  got  on  my  best  horse.  The  Turk,  and  prepared 
to  do  my  utmost  to  win  the  bet. 

The  sjiot  where  we  had  breakfasted  was  on 
the  outskirts  of  the  village  of  Sitarampur,  and 
as  we  moved  off  one  of  the  beaters,  approach- 
ing Mahabulli,  explained  volubly  that  the  red 
pig  was  still  lying  in  a  patch  oi  jhotv  half  a  mile 
ahead. 

Expectation  became  tense  as  the  line 
advanced  and  the  point  of  interest  drew  nigh. 


THE    RED    VIO    OF    POORA. 


595 


«*■»^ 


ONE    OK     IHE    ChAlEK^    tX  ll.A  I  >.  K  I ) 


1  Hi:    l.hU  ri(,  WAS    LYING    HALF  A  MILE  AHEAD. 


Mahabulli  rode  with  our  party  on  the  right  of 
the  line,  conversing  earnestly  with  Knyvett,  who 
had  been  mutually  selected  to  direct  us. 

"  Let  him  get  well  away,  sahib,"  was  the  old 
man's  final  injunction,  "  else  he  will  assuredly 
break  back  through  the  coolies  ana  swim  the 
river  again.  He  fears  a  man  no  more  than  a 
fly." 

"  Right  you  are,  Mahabulli  ! "  answered 
Knyvett,  cheerily;  "we'll  do  our  best."  And 
looking  round  our  respective  mounts,  he  added  : 
"  Any  one  of  us  ought  to  be  fast  enough  to 
catch  him  to-day.  We'll  give  him  as  good  a 
gallop  as  he  cares  for,  anyhow." 

As  the  four  of  us  rode  cautiously  forward  in 
front  of  the  beaters  we  reached  and  skirted  a 
patch  of  jungle  grass  higher  and  denser  than 
usual,  and  turned  in  our  saddles  expectantly  as 
the  coolies  entered  it.  A  moment  later  there 
was  a  redoubled  hubbub  from  the  men  within 
the  covert,  a  second  of  breathless  anticipation, 
and  then,  with  a  tearing  and  crashing  of  under- 
growth, the  tall  grass  parted  behind  us  and 
our  redoubtable  quarry  stood  five  yards  away  ! 
He  was  truly  a  magnificent  brute — full  four  feet 
high  at  the  shoulder,  with  that  extraordinary 
fringe  of  red  bristles  sloping  backwards  to  his 
hoary  grey  flanks,  and  the  finest  pair  of  tushes 
I  had  ever  seen.      With  twinkling,  cruel,  cunning 


eyes,  he  looked  at  us  grimly 
and  deliberately,  one  by  one, 
as  if  selecting  the  weakest  an- 
tagonist. He  seemed  to  con- 
clude not  to  face  us  just  then, 
whipped  round,  and  went  like 
a  grey  streak  for  the  nearest 
coolie.  Head  over  heels  went 
the  man,  and  the  others  in  his 
neighbourhood  scattered  dis- 
creetly, while  the  boar  headed 
away  to  the  left,  bearing  to- 
wards the  river  bank.  Presently, 
however,  to  our  great  relief,  we 
saw  the  next  party  from  the 
centre  spreading  out  to  get  be- 
tween him  and  the  river.  The 
situation  might  yet  be  saved. 
Anxiously  we  watched  the 
signals,  and  at  length  caught 
the  welcome  shout  :  "  He  has 
turned,  sahibs,  he  has  turned, 
and  comes  this  way  !  Oh,  be 
ready  now  !  " 

Silently  we  edged,  under 
Knyvett's  guidance,  in  the 
direction  our  informant  was 
pointing.  There  was  one  long 
moment  of  suspense,  and  then 
the  great  brute  burst  into  view 
twenty  yards  away,  turned  a  shifty  glance 
towards  us,  and  lurched  away  inland. 

"  Now,  you  fellows  !  "  said  Knyvett,  holding 
up  his  hand  for  a  moment's  law,  "there's  a 
clear  country  in  front ;  it's  between  us  four  and 
the  red  pig.      R-r-rride  !  " 

We  streaked  away  all  abreast  for  a  moment  or 
two.  We  were  all  well  mounted,  but  Knyvett 
was  the  fastest  on  a  striding  waler  and  led  us 
for  half  a  mile.  Bethune,  Temple,  and  I  were 
on  Arabs,  and  could  count  on  our  turn  if  it 
came  to  "jinking."  Knyvett  was  keeping  his 
lead  of  us  without  appearing  to  gain  materially 
on  the  pig,  when  suddenly  the  latter  "  jinked  " 
sharp  to  the  left  down  a  deep  blind  nullah,  and 
Knyvett's  horse — half  checked  in  its  leap — 
blundered  into  the  opposite  bank  and  fell 
heavily  with  its  rider. 

The  boar's  opportune  turn  gave  me  the 
advantage,  and  I  took  up  the  running  ten  yards 
behind  him,  and  following  every  twist.  I  could 
see  his  wicked  little  eye,  as  he  turned  now  this 
way,  now  that,  as  if  longing  to  charge,  but 
hesitating  to  venture.  I  saved  my  horse  for  a 
minute— the  boar  also  slackening  speed— and 
then  called  on  my  mount  for  a  rush,  to  which 
he  responded  gamely.  At  last  I  was  gaining, 
foot  by  foot.  Twice,  three  times,  my  spear  was 
poised  for  a  blow,  and  nil  but  launched  on  the 


5'/' 


THI-:     WIDK     WORLD     .MAClA/INi:. 


"KNVVETT-.    H'.I.^K    r.l.L'NDKMCU    INIU     I  UK    ul'l'Uhl Tt    HANK    A.ND    I  KLI.    UllH    IIS    UlDKl;. 


eventful  stroke,  but  again  and  again  the  active 
hrute.  scenting  clanger,  "jinked"  away  to  right 
or  left,  my  staunch  Httle  Arab  following  him 
like  a  rat.  At  last  the  opportunity  came  and  a 
shrewd  thrust  sped,  but  as  the  old  boar  in- 
stinctively wriggled  aside  it  only  pierced  his 
haunches. 

"S[)earl"  I  shouted  in  triumph,  showing 
blood  trickling  from  my  ujjraised  blade. 

"Confound  ii  :  "  growled  Ijethune,  as  he 
shot  past  my  spent  horse.  "  We've  got  to  kill 
him  yet." 

Hethune  gained  on  him  fast,  and  ere  long 
si)eared  again  ;  but  even  in  doing  so  achieved 
his  own  immediate  downfall,  for  the  pig,  on 
feeling  the  steel,  twisted  sharp  to  the  left,  right 
tmder  the  horse's  fore  legs,  bringing  steed  and 
rider  cra.shing  lo  the  ground.  Hethune  got  up 
and  shook  himself,  but  his  horse  had  torn 
himNcIf  free  and  g.iiloped  off. 

As   I   came   up,  ten  yards  behind,  the   boar 


turned  round  to 
look  at  the 
wreckage  he  had 
wrought,  caught 
sight  of  me  ap- 
proaching, and, 
after  one  or  two 
shifty  strides, 
wheeled  round 
determined  ly 
with  n  savage 
"W\;of!  woofV' 
and  charged 
down  on  me 
like  an  arrcnv 
from  a  bow.  My 
game  little 
mount  faced 
him  dauntlessly 
as  he  came  full 
on  the  point  of 
my  spear  ;  but, 
alas !  as  it  en- 
tered his  shoul- 
der the  stout 
bamboo  haft 
shivered  in  my 
hand,  and  The 
Turk  got  a  gash 
on  his  shoulder 
which  brought 
him  to  his  knees 
and  laid  him  up 
for  weeks. 

The  shock 
threw  me  a  yard 
or  so  in  advance, 
and  when  I  tried 
to  rise  I  found  my  right  leg  limp  and  useless, 
and  in  my  hand  a  splintered  spear-handle.  The 
boar  had  withdrawn  a  short  distance  from  me, 
and,  with  about  two  feet  of  spear  protruding 
from  his  shoulder,  eyed  me  with  triumphant 
malice,  lowering  and  shaking  his  head  as 
though  preparing  to  charge  and  gore. 

My  fragment  of  spear-haft  would  have  been 
of  little  avail  against  the  most  ordinary  charging 
boar,  and  this  was  a  colossal  brute.  During  the 
moment  or  two  that  remained  to  me — while 
wondering  where  I  should  first  feel  those  pitiless 
tushes — the  advice  given  in  General  Kinloch's 
book  to  a  man  dismounted,  disarmed,  and  con- 
fronted by  an  infuriated  boar  flashed  through 
my  mind — viz.,  to  throw  oneself  face  down- 
wards on  the  ground,  so  as  to  protect  the  more 
vital  parts.  But  before  putting  this  into  practice 
I  had  time  to  speculate — where  was  Bethune? 
Though  dismounted,  he  could  not  be  far  off— 
and  he  had  a  whole  spear.     Then  the  pig  came 


THE    RELJ     I'lG    OF     POORA. 


597 


on,  1  wriggled  myself  prone,  and  waited  for  the 
end. 

Yet  the  end  seemed  unaccountably  delayed. 
Just  as  I  was  expecting  to  feel  those  tushes 
tearing  through  my  ribs,  I  heard  Bethune's 
voice  from  close  at  hand  upraised  in  a  vocifer- 
ous shout  of  ''Hut!  Hut!  you  brute!"  A 
moment  later  I  ventured  to  raise  my  head,  and 
saw  him  standing  across  my  prostrate  form,  hold- 
ing the  huge  boar  back  on  the  point  of  his  spear. 

They  swayed  backwards  and  forwards,  Bethune 
throwing  all  his  weight  into  the  struggle,  and  the 
pig  gnashing  his  teeth  in  silent,  savage  deter- 
mination, and  seeming  as  if  he  would  climb  up 


I    SAW    lll.M     1 


-DING   THE   HUGE   BOAR   BACK   ON   THE    POINT  OF    HIS   SPEAIi. 


the  very  spear-haft  to  get  at  us,  though  it 
should  pierce  his  heart  in  the  effort. 

"  By  Jove  !  the  brute  weighs  a  ton,"  gasped 
Bethune.  "  I  can't  hold  him  back  much  longer. 
Where  on  earth  is  Knyvett  or  Temple  or—  or — 
somebody  on  a  horse?  Hi!  Knyvett!  Temple!  " 

He  raised  his  voice  in  a  rather  breathless 
halloa. 

There  was  an  answering  yell  from  hard  by, 
then  a  crashing  through  grass  and  jhow  as 
Knyvett  burst  into  the  open  and,  grasping  the 
situation  at  a  glance,  turned  his  horse  and  came 
charging  down  like  a  tornado  on  the  boar's 
flank.  As  his  spear  passed  into  the  gaunt  grey 
body  the  brave  beast  tottered  and   fell   over  on 


his  side  ;    yet  even  as  nis  life-blood  dyed  the 
yellow   sand   he  feebly  dragged  himself  towards, 
us  with  a  look  of  fell  determination  in  his  eyes. 
"  What    a    huge    brute ! "    said    Knyvett,    in 
admiration  and  amaze,  as  he  dismounted  beside 
us.      "  Who  got  first  spear  ?  "     ■ 

"  Bobbie,  confound  him  ! "  growled  Bethune. 
"Just  my  luck,"  grumbled   Knyvett.      "I'd 
like  to  have  got  that  pig." 

"  It  was  rather  a  fluke,"  I  admitted,  ruefully, 
"  but  I  think  you've  had  about  as  much  to  do 
with  it  as  any  of  us." 

The  line  of  coolies  and  the  elephants  had  been 
coming  in  our  direction,  and  soon  appeared  on 

the  scene.  While  a  doctor 
made  my  broken  lim"bas 
comfortable  as  was  pos- 
sible under  the  circum- 
stances I  saw  that  my 
poor  horse's  wound  was 
adequately  attended  to, 
and  was  thereafter  lifted 
and  placed  in  a  recum- 
bent position  on  the  pad 
of  one  of  the  elephants. 

There  was  only  one 
more  beat  that  day — un- 
attended, however,  with 
success  or  any  other  note- 
worthy incident— and  its 
conclusion  landed  us  at 
a  spot  where  the  traps 
were  waiting  to  convey 
us  back  to  cantonments. 
An  improvised  litter 
in  the  Gunners' brake  in- 
sured me  a  journey  home 
unattended  with  any 
more  pain  or  discomfort 
than  might  reasonably 
have  been  expected. 

Somewhat  later  tla^ 
evening,  and  just  after 
my  leg  had  been  pro- 
perly set  and  bandaged,  Bethune— who  shared 
the  bungalow  with  me— came  into  my  room 
before  going  over  to  mess,  and,  congratulating 
me  on  what  he  was  pleased  to  call  the  event 
of  the  season,  punctiliously  deposited  a  cheque 
for  sixteen  rupees  on  the  writing-table. 

"  Well,  old  man,"  I  replied,  with  more  than  a 
trace  of  feeling  in  my  voice  as  I  gripped  his 
hand,  "  it  seems  to  me  that,  if  it  hadn't  been 
iox you,  neither  that  "—  1  nodded  towards  the 
table— "nor   anything    else    would  .^aye   been 


much  good  to  me  by  this  time." 
"Oh,    rot!"    he   exclaimed,    as 

awny  :  "I  shall  be  late  for  mc'^s." 
But  mv  conviction  remained. 


he    walked 


..<^^f 


^IfMor^n^an. 


An  account  of  a  voyage    in    unfamiliar   waters.      The    author   went    to    Iceland    in    a    Grimsby   trawler, 

and    here  describes   and    illustrates  his  experiences. 

sausages  sizzled  juicily  in  tlie  pan,  and  filled  the 
nostrils  with  as  cheery  an  odour  as  ever  a  land- 
lubber could  wish  to  go  to  sea  with. 

Shortly  afterwards  a  tiny  tug  put  off  from  the 
docks  and  came  bobbing  across  the  water  in 
our  direction.  Trailing  a  diminutive  cloud  of 
grimy  smoke  from  its  absurd  funnel,  it  danced 
alongside,  and  with  a  wave  of  the  hand  our 
skipi)er  jumped  aboard.  A  hearty  hand-shake 
with  the  useless  passenger,  a  stentorian  "  Now 
then,  my  lads,"  to  the  crew,  and,  as  the  anchor 
came  rattling  in,  the  telegraph  tinkled,  and 
the  good  ship,  with  an  answering  "  chunk, 
chunk"  of  the  screw,  set  out  upon  her  latest 
voyage.  Presently  the  steward  climbed  the 
wheel-house  ladder  with  two  vast  i)Ots  of  tea. 
"  A  fisherman's  no  good  without  his  tea," 
observed  the  skipper,  raising  his  mug— a  senti- 
ment which  it  was  speedily  evident  was  shared 
by  the  whole  crew.  Acting  upon  the  hint,  the 
useless  pas.senger  drained  his  pot,  and  as  the 
Spurn  lightship  was  passed  and  the  open  sea 
reached  descended  to  the  deck  and  cliose  an 
easy  seat  u[)oii  the  nets,  conveniently  close  to 
the  ship's  side,  there  to  meditate  upon  the 
vanity  of  things  in  general  and  the  folly  of 
having  dry  land  in  ])articnlar. 


pOW  the  present  writer,  idling  one 
j  afternoon  upon  the  slimy  quays  and 
snuffing  the  ancient  and  fish- like 
smell  of  (Irimsby's  ever-picturesque 
docks,  chanced  to  fall  in  with  his 
friend  Captain  Joe  Little,  best  of  ski[)[)ers  and 
good  fellows,  and  what  followed  that  acquaint- 
ance, are  matters  which  scarcely  concern  the 
reader.  Suffice  it  to  say  that  on  a  bright 
morning  in  the  early  part  of  May  the  ss. 
ll'indsor  Cas/k,  (W .  1,101,  "the  best  steam 
Irawl.T  out  of  (JY.,"  as  the  mate  put  it,  lay  in 
the  I  lumber,  just  outside  the  docks,  waiting 
only  for  the  arrival  of  the  skipper  to  begin  her 
voya^^e  northward  to  the  fishing  -  grounds  of 
I'aroe  and  Iceland  in  (luest  of  scaly  spoil  for 
epicurean  slay  at  homes. 

On  board  were  the  crew  -thirteen  all  told, 
from  mate  to  boy  -  and  the  useless  passenger 
who  tells  this  tale.  ICveryone  was  occupied— the 
steward  with  pre[)arations  for  the  midday 
dinner,  the  engineers  in  the  engine-room  below, 
the  deck  hands  in  mending  the  trawl,  and  the 
mate  in  |)olishing  the  windows  of  the  wheel- 
house.  The  useless  passenger  worked  hard  at 
lookiim  oil.      Ai   noon  came  dinner,   served    in 


the   stuffy    little   cabin   nit.  where   the   live 


r  and 


1  wo      lllOUSANl)     MILLS     IN     A      IKAWI.i'K 


599 


Steaming  steadily  at  half  s[)eecl,  the  ]]'iii(isor 
Castle  arrived  at  West  Hartle[)ool  (hiring  tlie 
night.  I'^arly  m  the  morn 
ing  she  left,  after  coaling, 
with  l)unkers  crammed 
and  the  decks  on  either 
side  the  wheel  -  house 
piled  high  with  fuel,  full 
s[ieed  ahead  for  Kirkwall 
m  the  Orkney  Lslands. 

All  that  d  a  >'  a  n  d 
throughout  thesucceeding 
night  the  vessel  ploughed 
her  way,  with  a  fair 
wind,  northward  through 
the  grey  furrows  of  the 
North  Sea.  Away  in  the 
distance  lay  the  coast- 
line, dull  in  the  daytime, 
speckled  at  night  with 
the  tiny  glow-lamps  of 
some  port,  or  faintly  lit 
up  by  the  mysterious 
glare  reflected  from  ,  an 
unseen  furnace  on  shore. 
Towards  noon  on  the 
Sunday,  abreast  of  I)un- 
cansby  Head,  the  skipper 
[lointed  out  a  fissure  in 
the  land  which  marked 
the  entrance  to  the 
angry  Pentland  Firth,  in 
dirty  weather  no  whit 
less  perilous  a  strait  than  that  of  old  which  lay 
betwi.xt  Scylla  and  Chary bdis  ;  and  by  the  after- 
noon we  were  steaming  placidly  through  the 
smooth  waters  intersecting  the  fair  islands  of 
the  Orkney  Archipelago,  by  Copinsay  and  bluff 
Mull  Head,  till,  passing  the  wee  lighthouse  of 
Helliar  Holm  and  the  stately  pile  of  BalfourCastle 
on  Shapinsay,  by  early  morning  we  lay  alongside 
the  pier  of  Kirkwall,  with  decks  cleared,  ready 
to  begin  next  morning — for  in  the  Orkneys,  as 
on  the  Scottish  mainland,  the  Sabbath  is  strictly 
a  day  of  rest — the  work  of  getting  out  the  salt 
fish  left  over  from  the  last  trip,  and  brought 
north  from  Orimsby. 

On  the  next  day,  while  the  crew  were 
busy  hauling  up  from  the  hold  basket  after 
basket  and  ton  after  ton  of  salt  and  .slobbery 
cod,  the  useless  passenger  went  ashore  and 
wandered  in  and  out  the  grey  stone  cottages 
and  tenements  of  the  Orcadian  "capital,"  its 
[licturesque  culs-de-sac,  and  quaint  little  narrow 
streets,  with  cobbled  pony-track  running  down 
the  middle  of  the  paving-stones  in  lieu  of  road- 
way. By  evening  the  salt  and  ice  rooms  (the 
latter  being  the  place  where  fish  other  than  cod 
is  stored   in    ice)    were  alike  empty,   the  decks 


THE   AUTHOR,    THE    "  USKLESS    I'ASSENGEK. 
J'roiH  a  riwto. 


washed  down,  and  the  shi[)  ready  for  sea.      I5ut 
a    contrary    breeze   was    blowing — to    the    huge 

delight  of  the  captain  of 
a  homeward-bound  traw- 
ler, with  a  cargo  consist- 
ing chiefly  of  haddocks. 
(Haddocks  were  "  up," 
our  skipper  had  told  him, 
when  we  left  ("irimsl)y.) 
It  was  stiff  enough  even 
in  sheltered  Kirkwall 
Bay,  and  far  worse,  there- 
fore, it  was  reasonable 
to  suppose,  outside.  So 
we  lay  beside  the  pier  for 
the  night  and  all  through 
the  next  day  until,  the 
gale  abating  in  the  small 
hours  of  the  Wednesday 
morning,  we  cast  off  our 
moorings  and,  steaming 
gently  through  the  West- 
ray  Firth,  were  out  and 
away,  Iceland-bound 
across  the  broad  blue 
bosom  of  the  Atlantic 
before  even  the  thrifty 
Scot  had  sat  down  to  his 
morning  porridge. 

In  the  space  which  might 
have  been  devoted  to  a 
chronicle  of  the  two  days' 


THE   '-kii  11  i; 
From  a  | 


,    I  KN'   I'i  It  Nil''  A  u  i',i;k" 

IKNNY   OK    II.  ' 


,\Mi    I.AKMNi; 
[I'/lOtO. 


6oo 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


voyage  from  the  Orkneys  to  Iceland,  had 
that  part  of  the  trip  been  less  uneventful 
than  it  i)roved,  it  may  be  well  to  say  a 
few  words  upon  the  personnel  of  the  crew  and 
the  life  on  board.  First,  then,  as  to  the  ship- 
mates —  fourteen  in  number,  all  told  —  with 
whom  the  useless  passenger  found  his  lot  cast 
in.  First  came  the  skipper,  a  good  seaman, 
skilful  fisherman,  and  staunch  friend.  On^:.  of 
ihe  first  lo  exploit  the  newly-discovered  fishing- 
grounds  of  Iceland  a  score  of  years  ago,  and  a  man 
of  many  experiences,  he  has,  by  sheer  hard  work, 
risen  to  the  com- 
mand of  the  "finest 
trawler  out  of 
(irimsby,"  making 
his  ten  pounds  a 
week,  and  earning 
every  penny  of  it. 
Then  there  was 
the  mate,  Peter, 
best  of  good  com- 
j)any  and  cheeriest 
of  comrades,  a 
veritable  virtuoso 
on  mouth  -  organ, 
concertina,  or 
bones,  brimful  of 
yarns  spun  from 
varied  adventures 
in  every  phase  of 
a  fisherman's  life, 
from  the  rough  lot 
of  boy  on  a  North 
.Sea  smack  up- 
wards. Next  came 
Ired,  the  third 
iiand,  a  lusty  loon 
with  an  in.satiable 
craving  for  other 
folks'  tobacco, 
famous  throughout 
(Irimsby  for  his 
inability  to  laugh 
as  other  men,  his 
distressing  cachin- 
natory  perfor- 
mances having  mr^re  than  once  caused  some- 
thing akin  to  a  panic  in  the  local  theatre;  Jack, 
the  tight  lipped  "chief"  of  the  engine-room,  and 
jim  his  lieutenant— .Scotch,  as  it  was  not  sur- 
prising to  learn.  'I'he  steward,  or  cook,  was 
another  Jim,  who  had  served  his  time  in  the 
Army  and  .seen  service  in  foreign  jjarts. 

One  person  I  must  not  omit  to  mention- 
Mr.  J.  Rogers,  otherwise  known  as  "  Shad," 
"Shaddy,"  or  "Shadow,"  the  coal  trimmer, 
whose  principal  sphere  of  activity  was  supposed 
to  be  tile  bunkers,  whence  he  would  emerge  at 


/■III III  a 


meal-times  to  eat  ravenously,  reminding  himself 
of  his  former  connection  (as  coachman)  with  the 
gentry  ashore  by  solemnly  spreading  across  his 
knees  a  soiled  rag,  borrowed  from  the  engine- 
room,  by  way  of  makeshift  for  a  serviette. 

Of  the  useless  passenger  himself,  his  appetite, 
and  infinite  capacity  for  loafing,  perhaps  the  less 
said  the  better. 

Concerning  life  on  board  during  the  voyages 
to  and  from  the  fishing-grounds  there  is  little  to 
be  said.  Breakfast  was  served  at  seven  in  the 
morning,    dinner    (of    salt    beef    and    peas)   at 

noon,  and  tea  at 
six  in  the  evening. 
We  ate  our  meals 
in  the  little  cabin 
aft,  with  its  two 
"  state-rooms  "  re- 
served respectively 
for  the  mate  and 
the  chief  engineer 
(the  skipper  sleep- 
ing in  his  own 
sanctum,  the  chart- 
room)  and  its 
couple  of  bunks 
on  either  side.  A 
picture  for  a 
painter,  this  :  the 
gang  of  brawny 
giants  in  brine- 
stained  guernseys 
and  thick  woollen 
stockings  pulled 
over  their  trousers, 
seated  round  the 
small  table,  be- 
neath the  dim 
lamp,  which  per- 
haps lit  up  dingily 
the  bulky  form  of 
some  j)rostrate 
sleeper  in  the 
bunks,  devouring 
their  f  o  o  d  in 
hungry  silence,  or 
noisily  chaffing  the 
luckless  "  Shad  "  and  his  grimy  serviette,  with 
ever  and  anon  a  fresh  pair  of  clumper-shod 
legs  descending  the  steep  ladder,  as  a  new 
arrival  came  down  from  the  deck.  When  not 
eating  or  on  watch,  your  deep-sea  fisherman 
sleeps  most  of  his  time  away,  well  aware  that 
when  the  fishing  starts  he  will  have  little  time 
for  repose.  Some  few  who  can  read  make  use 
of  the  magazines  sent  by  charitable,  though 
occasionally  misguided,  folk  (among  a  bundle 
of  papers  thrown  to  us  at  Hartlepool  were 
copies  of  The  W'anstead  Parish  Magazine  and  a 


TWO    THOUSAND     MILES    IN     A    TRAWLER. 


60 1 


report  of  the  Anglican  Mission  to  North  China), 
and  distributed  by  the  agents  of  the  port 
missions.  But  aboard  the  iVindsor  Castle  the 
chief  recreation  was  a  game  at  halfpenny  nap, 
or  "wood-yard,"  an  ingenious  pastime  at  which 
a  reckless  gambler  might  lose,  with  bad  luck, 
perhaps  sixpence  at  a  sitting. 

On  the  seventh  day  out  from  Orimsby,  at  an 
uncomfortably  early  hour  of  the  morning,  the 
useless  passenger  was  rudely  awakened  by  the 
mate's  bald  announcement  that  land  was  in 
sight.  He  did  not  leap  instantly  from  his  bunk, 
however,  well  remembering  his  previous  experi- 
ence of  early  rising.  On  that  occasion  he  rushed 
(jii  deck,  clod  in  the  scantiest  garb,  in  response  to 
the  mate's  invitation  to  see  a  whale,  and  was 
rewarded  by  the  sight  merely  of  an  occasional 
.s[)uut  of  water  rising  like  steam  on  the  horizon, 
which  he  was  assured  was  an  exhibition  of 
cetacean  methods  of  breathing.  Coming  on 
deck  at  his  leisure  this  time,  he  wished  that  he  had 
bestirred  himself.  There  lay  Iceland  on  the 
weather  bow,  a  far-distant  citadel  of  glittering 
black  and  white  walls,  like  a  veritable  stronghold 
of  the  ice  fairies.  "  Ingolfs  Hof,"  said  the 
skipper,  laconically,  naming  the  south-east  pro- 
montory according  to  fishermen's  custom  ; 
though  the  Hof  is  but  an  inlet  made  by  the 
sea  in  the  towering  Oraela  JokuU,  which  rose 
sheer  on  the  horizon,  blending  its  snowy  summit 
with  the  clouds,  of  which,  indeed,  its  unreal 
appearance  made  it  seem  a  part. 

But  the  impression  thus  gained  of  the  Ice- 
landic coast  was  destined  soon  to  be  modified. 
Though  good  fishing  is  generally  to  be  had  off 
Ingolfs  Hof,  the  skipper  would  none  of  it  this 
trip  and  steered  his  course  for  Portland,  ^\'ith 
the  glinting  snow-drifts  of  Oraefa  JokuU  fading  in 
the  distance,  we  pursued  our  way  steadily  west- 
ward just  within  sight  of  a  long,  flat  coast,  on  to 
which  a  man  might  drift  in  thick  weather  while 
thinking  himself  far  out  at  sea,  and  which  has 
indeed  proved  the  doom  of  more  ships  than  any 
other  part  of  Iceland.  After  a  while  the  land  rose 
higher  and  barren  islets  ho\e  themselves  up, 
t)ringing  into  view  a  long  succession  of  bare, 
brown,  desolate  cliffs,  with  here  and  there  a  gorge 
that  gave  a  welcome  glimpse  of  scant  vegetation 
within.  Volcanic  in  nature,  the  coast  looked  as 
though  it  were  com[)osed  of  the  slag  heaps  from 
some  gargantuan  furnace  ;  which  in  truth  it  is. 
Ilehind  rose  the  UKjuntains,  the  taller  capped 
with  snow,  which  is  a  reminder  of  a  very  curious 
feature  of  Icelandic  coast  scenery.  So  extra- 
ordinarily clear  is  the  air  that  miles  seem  as 
yards,  high  cliffs  appear  low  ridges  on  the 
shore,  and  mountains  that  rise  above  the  line  of 
eternal  snow  mere  hills.  Only  when  the  ruddy 
roof  of  a  house  is  spied  through  the  glasses  like 

Vol.  xi.— 76. 


a  red  pebble  on  the  beach  is  a  proper  sense  of 
proportion  approached. 

Abreast  of  the  Portland  "  Blow-Hole,"  a  huge 
natural  arch  beaten  by  the  waves  out  of  a  jutting 
rock,  the  telegraph  rang  in  the  engine-room,  and 
the  busy  stir  on  deck  gave  warning  that  fishing 
was  at  length  to  begin.  It  was  already  late  in 
the  evening,  but  the  deep-sea  fisherman  at  work 
recks  little  of  time.  liesides,  the  sun  shone 
gloriously  in  the  cold,  invigorating  air,  and  who 
could  think  of  turning  in  just  now  ?  The  idea 
was  absurd  :  so  the  useless  passenger,  forgetting 
the  short  lived  days  of  England,  remained  on 
deck,  indulging  in  the  photogra{)hic  absurdity 
of  taking  s/iap-shots  at  ten  of  the  night. 

Meanwhile,  the  business  of  shooting  the 
trawl  was  quickly  going  forward.  A  trawler 
carries  two  nets,  either  side  of  the  ship  being 
fitted  with  the  necessary  tackle,  to  provide 
against  the  not  infrequent  contingency  of  an 
accident  to  the  gear.  The  trawl  itself  needs 
but  little  description,  being  a  wide-mouthed  net, 
of  biggish  mesh,  gradually  tapering  to  the  end, 
known  as  the  "  bag,"  which  is  divided  from 
the  open  part  of  the  net  by  a  hanging  fringe 
or  curtain,  which  acts  like  a  valve,  and  affords 
the  fish  easy  entrance,  but  no  exit.  The  moutii 
of  the  trawl  is  kept  open  by  two  large  steel-shod 
"  doors,"  which  slide  upright  over  the  bottom, 
and  to  which  are  attached  the  steel  warps  that 
pass  over  the  iron  gallows,  or  derricks,  fore  and 
aft,  and  round  \arious  "  bollards,"  or  revolving 
stanchions,  to  the  winch,  by  means  of  which 
most  of  the  hauling  is  done.  The  pressure  of 
the  water  as  the  net  is  towed  through  it  sutifices 
to  keep  the  net  distended.  The  trawl  having 
been  shot  overboard,  the  winch  is  allowed  to 
run  free  until  the  net  is  some  three  or  four 
hundred  yards  astern.  Then  the  warps  are 
pinned  together  aft  by  a  hook  and  chain,  the 
telegraph  signals  half  speed  ahead,  and  the 
trawler  cruises  slowly  round  and  about  the 
fishing-ground,  the  skipper  steering  his  devious 
course  and  keeping  clear  of  the  rocks  which 
previous  experience  of  damaged  gear  has 
warned  him  of,  by  means  of  various  land- 
marks which  he  has  learned  for  himself,  and 
which,  indeed,  inasmuch  as  they  often  enablt 
hmi  to  work  exclusively  a  favourable,  but  un- 
frequented or  difficult,  patch,  form  an  important 
part,  as  it  were,  of  his  stock-in-trade. 

The  trawl  may  be  towed  for  any  length  of 
time— from  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes  up  to  twcj 
hours  or  even  longer— according  to  circum- 
stances. At  last,  however,  the  skipper  deter- 
mines to  haul.  He  leans  out  of  the  wheel- 
house  window.  "  Winch  ready  ?  "  he  shouts. 
"  Aye,  aye,  sir,"  comes  the  answer,  and  as  the 
mate  takes  his   stand  at  the  winch   the   skipper 


6o2 


THE    Wll^E    WORLD    iMAGAZINE. 


/•'mm  a] 


SEAGULLS    HOVKUINC.    OVKI!    TliK    NF.T. 


[I'/iofo. 


end   of   the   bag,    packed 
tight  with   a  silvery  load, 
to     be     greeted     by    the 
downward     swoop    of    a 
flock  of  gulls  eager  for  the 
sand-eels  which    the    cod 
and   haddock  give  u[)  in 
their      discomfort.        The 
deck  hands  crowd  to  the 
side,    and    with     many    a 
"  Hi-i-i  ///  with  it,  ijp  and 
///    again,'"    and    many    a 
lusty    tug    they    haul    the 
bulging      bag      alongside. 
Then     the    "  snautler,"    a 
length  of    stout    rope,    is 
deftly    attached,     and     a 
turn   or  two  of  the  winch 
brings    the    bag    half   out 
of   the  water.     As   it   lies 
there    the    double  -  looped 
"  bag  becket  "    is   twisted 
round     and     hooked     on 
to    the     pulley  -  tackle    of 
the    mast.      "  Up    on    the 


begins  to  I -ring  the  ship  round,  so  that 
by    the    time    the    hauling    process    is 
finished  she  shall  be  broadside  to  the 
breeze,  with  the  net  to  windward  -this 
to  obviate    the  possibility  of  drifting, 
when  the  engines  have  stopped,  on  to 
the  trawl  and  so  fouling  it.      As  the 
throb  of  the  jiropeller  ceases  in  obedi- 
ence  to  the    tinkling   signal  from    the 
wheel-house,    the    skipper   leans  again 
out  of  the  window.     "Le'  go  be'ind  !" 
he  shouts.     "  Le'  go  be'ind  !  "  yells  the 
mate.       And    the    preliminary    tap    of 
the  hammer  upon  the  pin  is  followed 
l)y  a  dull  crash  as  the  straining  warps 
arc   |)arled  and   fly  asunder.     "  Right 
away  I "  roars   the  skipper.     "Away  it 
is,"  observes  the  stentorian   mate,  and 
with  a  puff  and  a   snort  the  clattering 
wint  h    begins   slowly    to    haul    in    the 
warps.      The    monotonous   rattle  con- 
tinues   fur    some    minutes,     by    which 
time  the  net  has  been  dragged  round. 
Suddenly  up  with    a    bang   come    the- 
massive   doors  on    the   derricks,   their 
mi-tal  shod    keels  shining   bright   from 
friction  with   the   bottom.     The  noisy 
winch  stops,  and  the  skipper,  going  to 
the    side,    peers    anxiously    across    the 
water.       Nothing    for    the    moment    is 
visible.     Ne.Nt  instant  a  large  patch  of 
the  water  turns  pale  green  and,  with  a 
bubbling  swirl,   up  pops   the  rounded 


/•> 


THK    CRl:\V    1IALI.[N<;    IN    IIIK    CAICH. 


\IVioto. 


I'WO      IIIOUSANI)     Mli.i;s     I\     A     TRAWI.KR. 


603 


between    layers  of  salt  and  the  latter 
in  well-iced  pounds. 

So  the  fisherman's  task  went  round, 
towing,  hauling,  guttinsj,  towing,  haul- 
ing, gutting.  As  for  the  useless 
passenger,  he  enjoyed  life  to  the  full. 
With  nothing  to  do  but  eat,  drink, 
sleep,  and  fill  his  lungs  with  an  air 
that  no  elixir  of  the  ancients  could 
rival,  it  would  have  been  strange  had 
he  not  done  so.  But  there  were  end- 
less sources  of  amusement  besides. 
Every  time  the  warning  rattle  of  the 
winch  announced  that  a  haul  was 
preparing  expectation  ran  high  as  to 
what  the  bag  might  disgorge.  Some- 
times a  monster  halibut  of  ten  stone 
or  more  would  fall  flapping  on  the 
deck.  The  curious  eye  would  rest 
now  upon  a  clumsy  and  inert  lum[)- 
fisli,  now  u[)on  an  evil-looking  dog-fish, 
which  would  unexpectedly  lash  itself, 
if  unwarily  picked  up,  and  inflict  a 
vindictive  gash  upon  the  hand  with  its 
\icious    dorsal     tooth.       Even    when 


THE    GKEAT    r.AG    Ol'    FIMI    sWlNi.lNlj    I.NBOAICP. 
From  a  Photo. 

tackle  "  is  the  general  cry,  and  as  the 
winch  rattles  round,  the  "  snautler "  is 
removed  and  the  great  bag  of  fish  is 
hauled  slowly  up,  until  it  swings  in 
board,  to  be  caught  ':ind  held  in  posi- 
tion by  a  couple  of  warps  specially 
strung  to  receive  it.  The  fore  deck 
has  already  been  divided  into  a  num- 
ber of  square  pounds,  over  which  the 
catch  hangs.  The  third  hand  stoops 
and  catches  hold  of  the  free  end  of  the 
great  knot  that  fastens  the  tail  end  of 
the  bag,  now  hanging  downwards,  and 
gives  it  a  vigorous  tug.  The  load 
"gives"  visibly,  and  at  the  next  tug  the 
bag  suddenly  opens  and,  with  a  loud 
boost,  an  avalanche  of  fish  descends 
flap[)ing  and  struggling  upon  the  deck. 
Their  doom  is  soon  sealed,  for  scarcely 
has  the  empty  bag  been  lowered  over- 
board, to  be  again  towed  behind,  before 
the  deck  hands  wade  into  the  slippery 
mass,  beheading  and  s|)litting  open  the 
(X)d,  and  gutting  the  haddock,  plaice, 
halibut,  and  other  fish,  to  be  piicked, 
after  being  washed,   below,   the  former 


11II-;    OI'ENING    OF     rilli     BAG  — "AN     A\ALA\C1II-;     I'l'     IISII 
From  rt]  AND  STUUGOLING    UI-O.V    THE    DECK. 


DKMJl-.Mi-       I- I. A  I'll  N<; 

\  Photo 


6o4 


THK    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


the  bag  brought  up  no  curiosities  of  the  deep 
there  was  endless  food  for  philosophical  reflec- 
tion in  the  hapless  struggles  of  the  dejected  cod, 
the  unhappy  haddock,  and  the  helpless  halibut. 
And  when  at  length  the  sun  did  set  and  the  air 
grew  nipping  and  eager,  there  was  always 
the  wheel-house  to  which  to  resort,  there  to  listen, 
through  the  paradoxical  daylight  of  the  night,  to 
the  skipper's  fishing  lore  and  his  tales  of  the 
"  bogey  man  " — the  Danish  gunboat  that  protects 
the  fisheries,  and  tries  to  enforce  the  law  that  [)ro- 
hibits  foreigners  from 
fishing  within  three 
miles  of  the  shore- 
or  the  queer  adven- 
tures of  the  mate, 
afloat  on  the  North 
Sea  and  the  Atlan- 
tic, or  ashore  in 
Reykjavik,  the  Faroe 
Isles,  a  n  d  o  t  h  e  r 
Strang  ■  places. 

I'or  two  glorious 
days  the  Windsor 
Cm  tie  lay  fishing  off 
I'orlland.  By  that 
tinjc  she  had  some 
tons  (jf  haddock  in 
her  ice-room,  with  a 
fair  number  of  plaice 
and  halibut.  But 
cod  was  not  so 
plentiful  as  could  be 
desired  ;  fijr,  though 
the  price  of  other 
fish  varies  according 
to  the  market,  .salt 
fijili  can  always  be 
rt-lietlj  upon  as  a  pay 
ing  invfeMment.  Be 
sid«;s,,  it  matters 
cpmpara'iively  little 
how  long  it  be  kepi 
aboard,  and  it  is-con 
sequcnlly  especially 
welcome  at  the  beginning  of  a  trip.  Therefore 
the  skipper  wanted  more  cod.  So,  apparentlv, 
(Ik!  a  Dutrh  trawler  from  Vuiniuiden,  whom  we 
saw  pitching  bag  after  bag  of  haddock— good 
lond  for  luindreds  of  hungry  people  -overboard. 
Ought  to  get  SIX  months,  the  .scoundrel,"  was 
the  .skipper's  just  comment  upon  this  lamentable 
exhibition  of  wanton  waste. 

Tow  as  we  would,  but  little  cod  was  to  be 
had  ;  so  late  on  the  evening  of  the  third  day 
(a  Sunday,  for  was  there  not  plum-duff  for 
dmner  ?)  the  skipper  banished  all  hesitation 
and  Mg„,  l.nj,  full  speed  ahead  .steereil  a  course 
•or  haxe  Bay,  on  the  western  coast,  the  farthest 


I'roiK  (i\ 


A    DAINIY    MOkSEL    FKOM    THK   TRAWL. 


but  the  best  (as  regards  the  quality  of  the  fish) 
of  the  fishing-grounds.  That  night  we  passed 
through  Vestmannaeyjar,  the  little  group  of  tiny 
Westmann  Isles,  and  morning  found  us  pursuing 
our  way  along  the  burnt  southern  coast,  past 
Grindavik,  where  once  the  gunboat  swooped 
unexpectedly,  with  disastrous  results  to  many, 
upon  a  whole  fleet  of  delinquent  trawlers  fishing 
within  the  limits,  to  Reykjanes,  the  rocky  and 
perilous  south-west  promontory  of  Iceland, 
with     its     little     lighthouse     perched     on     the 

summit  of  a  tower- 
ing cliff,  and  oppo- 
site, far  out  at  sea, 
the  solitary  Gannet 
Rock,  v'hite  with  the 
accumulated  guano 
of  who  shall  say  how 
many  years.  Thence, 
the  corner  rounded, 
up  the  western  coast, 
along  the  treacherous 
low  land,  sticking  up 
f  r  o  m  w  h  i  c  h  the 
glasses  revealed  the 
bare  masts  and  pro- 
strate hulk  of  a 
wrecked  trawler,  and 
past  Utskalar  into 
I'axe  Bay,  with 
Snaefell's  JokuU  — 
"  Snowy  Jokull,"  as 
the  fishermen  call  it 
-  rising  in  white 
magnificence  sixty 
miles  (though  it 
seems  but  ten) 
across  the  water, 
and  Reykjavik  in 
the  distance,  look- 
ing, even  through 
the  glasses,  more 
like  a  collec- 
tion of  bathing 
machines  upon 
the  shore    than  a  capital    city. 

For  just  a  week,  in  varying  weather  that  some- 
times, when  the  landmarks  were  hidden  from 
sight,  necessitated  the  dropping  of  a  buoy  by 
which  to  work,  we  towed  our  trawl  over  the 
grounds  of  Faxe  Bay.  iM'sh  was  plentiful,  but 
of  a  different  quality  from  that  caught  off  Port- 
land, the  haddock  being  smaller  and  finer  and 
the  plaice  fresher  and  more  delicate,  resembling 
the  much-prized  ones  of  the  North  Sea.  At 
intervals  a  crew  of  coast  Icelanders,  hardy  sons 
of  the  old  Vikings,  would  come  alongside,  clad 
from  head  to  foot  in  clothes  of  hcse-skin,  with 
the  hair  worn  inside-,  to  barter  whisky  and  cigars 


[Pkoio. 


TWO    THOUSAND    MILES    IN    A    TRAWl,KR. 


605 


for  the  small  fish  cast  aside  by  the  deck  hands 
as  useless  for  the  English  market.  A  great 
hone  of  contention  between  owners  and  masters 
is  this  tratific  with  the  Icelanders,  the  owners 
being  afraid  lest  valuable  fish  be  thus  lost  to 
them — somewhat  imnecessarily,  however,  for  no 
skipper  worthy  of  his  trust  would  knowingly 
give  away  fish  that  could  command  a  price  in 


Sometimes  a  friendly  skipper  from  a  neigh- 
bouring Hull  or  (irimsby  trawler  would  come 
aboard  (it  being  our  own  skipper's  unvarying 
rule  never  to  leave  his  ship  until  home  again) 
for  half  an  hour's  boisterous  chaff  and  good- 
fellowship.  On  one  occasion  a  couple  of  whales 
that  had  strayed  into  the  bay  and  seemed 
flustered   over   their   efforts   to   find   a   way  out 


I-'roiii  a\ 


li_bLA.\]jEKS    Co.MI.NG    ALONGSIDE   FOR    SM.^I.I.    AND    USELESS    ^l^ 


[/'/'«)/<>. 


port  (especially  as  he  is  generally  a  sharer 
in  the  profits),  while  the  owners  can  scarcely 
grumble  at  the  disposal  of  useless  fish, 
which,  if  not  thus  removed,  would  only  be 
cast  overboard  to  rot  on  the  bottom  and 
spoil  the  fishing-grounds.  The  Icelanders  them- 
selves, with  the  fish  thus  obtained  added  to  the 
cod  they  catch  on  their  lines,  make  a  living  by 
curing — for  which  their  climate  is  unrivalled — 
and  selling  the  dried  fish  to  the  storekeepers  of 
the  nearest  town,  the  commodity  forming  one  of 
the  chief  exports  of  the  country.  In  truth,  they 
work  hard  for  their  living,  being  often  at  sea  in 
their  open  boats  for  twenty-four  hours  and  more 
at  a  stretch.  And  a  wonderful  sight  it  is  to  see 
them  start  for  home  v.'ith  a  cargo  of  small  fish, 
their  curious  craft  laden  down  to  the  water, 
scudding  before  the  wind  with  mainsail,  topsail, 
foresail,  and  jib  all  set,  while  the  whole  crew, 
their  almost  bladeless  oars  thrust  as  far  out  as 
possible  to  make  e.xtra  weight,  sit  over  on  the 
weather  side  to  keep  the  boat  trim,  baling  her 
out  with  all  their  might  as  she  flies  over  the 
waves. 


swam  round  and  about  the  ship  for  some 
minutes.  They  were  young  and,  for  whales, 
small ;  yet,  though  the  crew  scarcely  heeded 
them  and  the  useless  passenger  was  able  him- 
self to  gaze  dry-eyed  upon  the  swimming 
monsters  of  the  deep,  they  afforded  food  for 
much  sober  reflection. 

Thus  passed  the  time  in  Faxe  Bay,  and  the 
skipper  still  prayed  for  cod.  At  last,  on  the 
seventh  day  from'  Portland,  just  as  a  homeward 
course  was  being  meditated,  the  waters  were 
suddenly  filled  with  cod.  Hag  after  bag,  full  to 
bursting  point,  was  hauled  in,  though  the  towings 
were  of  less  than  half  an  hour's  duration.  So 
large  was  each  catch  ^that  the  process  of 
"hooking  out"  had  to  be  resorted  to  in  order 
to  lighten  the  load-  this  being  accomplished  by 
unlacing  a  special  opening  in  the  net  and 
allowing  the  fish  to  swim  out,  gafifing  them  as 
they  did  so  with  a  gruesome  weapon  in  the 
shape  of  a  sharp  hook  on  the  end  of  a  long 
pole,  and  thus  jerking  them  aboard.  Withui 
two  hours  there  must  have  been  something  like 
four  thousand   cod  emptied  on  board,  and  the 


6oh 


IHE     WIDE     WOKI.l)     MAC.AZINi:. 


From  a 


HOOKING   OUT        lO    LICHTEN    THE    LOAD    IN    THE    NET. 


VPhoio. 


decks  were  piled  liigh  with  tlic  <;reeni.sh  fish. 
The  skipper's  face  was  wreathed  in  smiles  as  he 
put  his  hand  on  the  telegraph.  "  Now  we're 
off,"  t|uoth  he,  and  shoved  the  pointer  down. 
'I'he  bell  rang,  the  water  astern  seethed  into 
foam,  and  the  Windsor  Castle  pointed  her  nose 
for  luigland. 

( )n  the  third  day  of  the  voyage  home  a 
nasty  head  wind,  increasing  in  strength  towards 
night,  s[)rang  up.  Early  next  morning  the 
useless  passenger  awoke  to  the  .sound  of  a 
mighty  rushing  of  waters,  and  perceived  the 
unwonted  spectacle  of  a  miniature  salt  Niagara 
pouring  into  the  cabin.  With  praiseworthy 
prt;senr:e  of  mind  he  leaped  from  his  berth, 
and  pounced  upon  his  boots  just  as  they  were 
putting  off  from  the  side  upon  a  voyage  of 
c\pl(jralion  across  the  unornamental  lake  into 
which  the  cabin  floor  had  been  transformed. 
Nor  would  he  be  content  with  mooring  them  to 
tile  bunk,  but  took  them  to  bed  with  him,  and 
nursed  them  beneath  his  rug  throughout  the 
clay,  while  the  ship  lay  to  and  the  waves  crashed 
bro.idside  over  her,  setting  the  jars  of  fish  livers 
adrift  from  their  lashings,  dislocating  the  hand- 
r.nl  on  the  engine  casing,  and  keeping  the 
d«xks  immersed  in  swirling  water.  How  the 
steward  cooked  the  meals  that  day  is  a  matter 
that  has  r;iiised  the  useless  |)assenger  much 
puz/.led  cogitation  since.  At  the  time,  food  and 
!"'rlaining  thcrcio  luid  wo  interest  for  him. 


rvm     i|i|ti 


"'•aliier    comes    to    an 


end 


(though  it  sometimes  takes  a  long  time  about 
it),  and  at  length  the  Windsor  Castle  made  Fair 
Island,  and  thence  shaped  a  course  for  Kirk- 
wall. Into  that  haven  she  steamed  early  on 
the  Thursday,  having  left  Faxe  Bay  on  the  pre- 
vious Sunday  morning.  The  useless  passenger 
promptly  went  ashore,  and  the  crew  set  about 
their  weary  task  of  landing  some  twenty  odd 
tons  of  salt  fish. 

In  the  evening,  with  her  bows,  relieved  of  the 
load  of  salt  fish,  higher  out  of  the  water,  the 
Windsor  Castle  left  again,  to  perform  the  last 
part  of  her  homeward  voyage.  After  the  storm, 
the  calm  ;  and  the  Orkneys  could  scarce  have 
been  fairer  to  the  eye.  On  the  next  day  the 
wind  got  up  again,  and  a  heavy  rain,  thick  as  a 
mist,  necessitated  half  speed  and  caution  during 
the  night.  Rut  the  Saturday  morning  broke  fair, 
and  after  passing  green-topped  Flamborough 
Head,  gleaming  white  in  the  sunshine  as  only  the 
cliffs  of  Albion  can,  the-Siourn  lightship  was 
rounded  shortly  before  noon  and  the  mouth  of  the 
Humber  entered.  We  were  home  again.  Every- 
one on  board  packed  his  traps  and  prepared  (it 
l)eing  Saturday,  and,  tiierefore,  useless  to  land 
the  fish  inmiediately)  to  go- ashore  ;  the  skii)[)er, 
mate,  and  crew  to.  spend  a  few  hours  on  dry 
land  before  setting  out  on  another  long  tramp 
of  two  thousand  miles  and  more  across  the 
ocean,  and  the  useless  passenger  to  take  the 
first  tr.iin  to  I.omUjn  town  and  wish  himself 
anywhere  else. 


The   Most   Inaccessible 

Place   in   China. 


By  a.   Hall  Hall. 

Being  an  account  of  how  a  Cambridge  undergraduate  succeeded  in  penetrating  into  the  mysterious 
Grand  Llamaserai,  near  Pekin,  exchanged  cards  with  the  Grand  Llama,  and  finally  came  away  safe 
and  sound.     Prior  to  1900,  so  far  as  is  known,  no  European  had  ever  entered  the  gates  of  this  strange 

place  and  returned  to  tell  the  tale. 


URINC)  a  recent  visit  to  Pekin  I 
instituted  inquiries  about  the  famous 
temple  of  the  Grand  l.lama,  but 
for  several  days  could  gain  no  exact 
information  on  the  subject.  If  I 
asked  a  Chinaman  to  tell  me  what  he  knew 
about  the  mysterious  place  he  would  put  off 
the  matter  as  long  as  possible,  and,  when  finally 
one's  patience  was  exhausted  and  the  absurd 
assumption  of 
ignorance  could 
be  borne  no 
longer,  he 
would  take  re- 
fuge in  direct 
and  obvious 
falsehood  and 
deny  the  very 
existence  of  the 
temple,  or  even 
of  the  Llamas 
themselves,  so 
far  as  Pekin 
was  concerned. 
He  had  heard 
that  there  were 
some  of  them 
in  Manchuria, 
and  that,  for 
example,  there  was  a  great  temple  and  mona.s- 
tery  at  Urga,  but  he  knew  of  no  such 
establishment  near  Pekin.  The  information 
obtainable  from  Europeans  was  a  little  more 
definite,  but  hardly  reassuriiTg.  Everyone  had 
heard  of  the  Llamaserai,  of  course,  and  alarm- 
ing tales  were  current  of  the  way  the  Llamists 
had  of  discouraging  the  inquisitive  "foreign 
devil "  by  methods  that  were  more  ingenious 
than  polite.  Though  the  building  itself  was 
but     five     miles     from     the     wall     of     Pekin, 


Fro))i  rt] 


ON    Tnl£    WAY    TO   THE    I.LAIMA    TICMI'LE. 


it  had  always  been  considered  the  most  in- 
accessible place  in  the  Chinese  Empire.  Prior 
to  1900,  I  was  told,  several  attempts  to  enter 
the  gates  had  been  made,  but  the  few  travellers 
who  had  succeeded  had  been  less  fortunate  in 
their  efforts  to  get  out.  In  fact,  not  a  single 
one  had  returned  to  tell  the  tale  of  his 
adventures. 

This  information,  scanty  enough  in  all  con- 
science, was  all 
I  could  obtain  : 
but  I  had  learnt 
all  that  w  a  s 
necessary  for 
the  direction  of 
my  coolies. 
The  gruesome 
tales  of  slow, 
ingenious  tor- 
tures (boiling 
oil,  of  course, 
was  mentioned, 
and  that  [par- 
ticularly artistic 
o  [)  e  r  a  t  i  o  n 
called  "The 
I)  e  a  t  h  of  a 
Thousand 
Cuts"  w  a  s 
suggested  as  a  very  probable  fate)  quite  failed 
to  deter  me  ;  while  the  stories  of  strange  reli- 
gious rites  and  ceremonies  and  the  seemingly 
Impenetrable  cloud  of  mystery  hanging  over  the 
place  had  their  natural  effect,  and  I  felt  that  I 
could  not  sleep  another  night  without  making 
a  good  attempt  to  visit  the  place  I  had  come  so 
far  to  see. 

The  rebellion  of  1 900-1 901  was  over  and  the 
condition  of  things  in  general  had  greatly 
changed    since    the    sup[)ression    of   the    Boxer 


{Photo. 


6o8 


THE    WIDi:    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


/•roiii  a\ 


A    STKKIir   SCKNE    EN    NOLTK. 


inoveniciil.  In  llic  south  of  China  the  effects 
of  the  war  may  have  been  less  marked  and  it 
was  still  dangerous  to  travel  off  the  beaten 
track,  while  to  show  a  revolver  in  such  a  town 
as  Canton,  for  instance,  would  have  been  to 
court  immediate  death.  But  in  the  north  the 
Chinese  had  learnt  a  lesson  from  the  war,  or,  if 
they  had  not  done  so,  at  any 
rate  considered  it  wise  to  let 
the  hated  "  foreii,Mi  devil"  have 
his  own  way  for  the  present  — 
possibly  with  the  idea  of  equaliz- 
ing matters  at  a  later  date.  At 
I'ekin,  as  I  have  said,  the 
ICuropean  was  not  treated  witli 
any  hostility,  and  it  was  only 
when  one  lelt  tile  European 
quarter  and  wandered  about  the 
slums  of  the  town  — and  what 
slums  they  are  !--that  a  fierce 
gleam  in  the  eyes,  not  entirely 
the  result  of  o[)ium  smoking,  or 
a  sharp  passing  scowl  of  con- 
tempt and  hatred  was  to  be 
observed  in  the  faces  of  the 
coolies  around  one.  Circum 
stances  had  changed,  and  I  had 
f()u?id  during  my  journey  through 
Manchuria  and  wanderings  about 
•  in  and  I'ekin  that  tlie  pos- 
1    tuui    occasional    displny 


of  a  business  -  like  revolver,  no  less 
than  the  liberal  use  of  Chinese 
"  cash,"  worked  wonders.  So,  in 
spite  of  the  doubts  expressed  by  my 
friends,  I  felt  confident  that  my 
appearance  at  the  gate  of  the  Llama- 
serai  with  the  two  powerful  per- 
suasives named  would  be  followed, 
not  by  a  lingering  and  painful  deatii, 
but  by  a  peaceful  walk  through  the 
grounds  of  the  temple,  an  inspection, 
I^erhaps,  of  some  of  the  buildings, 
and  —  most  important  of  all  from  a 
purely  personal  point  of  view — a  safe 
return  to  the  outside  world. 

Filled  with  thoughts  of  the  adven- 
tures in  store  for  the  morrow  I 
retired  early,  and  after  dreaming 
appropriate  dreams  was  awakened 
by  the  hotel  -  boy  with  the  remark 
that  "  bleakfast  for  one  piecee  man  " 
was  waiting  for  me.  Half  an  hour 
later  I  was  in  a  rickshaw  and  two 
partially  clad  coolies  were  jiulling 
me  towards  my  destination.  "  Five 
piecee  mile,"  I  had  told  them;  "all 
samee  straight  along  Harteman  Street, 
and  ril  tell  you  when  to  stop." 
"Pidgin"  English,  though  it  is  no  doubt  en- 
titled to  respect  as  the  international  commercial 
language  of  the  East,  always  got  on  my  nerves, 
and  I  never  could  pursue  the  dialect  for  more 
than  half  a  sentence  or  so  at  a  time.  P'ancy 
requesting  a  dignified  Chinese  waiting-boy  to 
'■gocatchee  two  piecee  knife,   savee  !  "     What 


\l'/u<to. 


(iATF.S — THE    MON'ASTRRV    I.IF.S     ABOUT    FIVK    Mll.HS    OUTSIDE    I'KKIN. 
I'roiii  a  riioto. 


'I'm-:   Most    inaccessii;i.1':    ri.ACJ-:   in    china. 


609 


Stranger  to  the  East  could  make  a  remark  of 
this  kind  without  feeling  a  certain  lo.ss  of  self- 
respect  ? 

Perhaps  it  was  owing  to  this  insular  pride,  or 
l)erhaps  it  was  that  my  coolies  had  reasons  of 
their  own  for  leading  me  astray,  that — after  we 
iiad  been  trotting  some  considerable  distance 
and  as  I  was  expecting  every  minute  to  see  the 
huge  carved  wooden  gates  of  the  temple  —  I 
discovered  that  we  were  no  longer  following  the 
direction  of  Harteman  Street,  but  were  going  at 
right  angles  to  it.  We  were  by  this  time  in  a 
narrow  passage,  where  the  walls  of  the  houses 
almost  touched 
the  rickshaw  on 
either  side.  I 
gave  new  direc- 
tions to  the 
coolies,  but  they 
took  no  notice, 
and  it  was  only 
by  forcibly  prod- 
ding the  nearer 
one  in  the  back 
with  my  walking- 
stick  that  I  at 
length  prevailed 
on  them  to  stop. 
I  shouted  the 
name  of  the 
Llamaserai  to 
tliem  in  Chinese, 
but  it  produced 
no  effect  beyond 
a  stupid  stare  of 
ignorance  and 
an  expression  of 
countenance 
that  I  can  only 
•  ompare  with 
that  of  a  plain 
deal  board.  This 

counterfeited  simplicity  made  me  thoroughly 
angry,  for  a  crowd  had  collected,  and  by  the 
surly  looks  of  those  around  us  I  could  see  that 
a  speedy  retreat  was  the  only  reasonable  course 
to  adopt.  Shouting  the  name  of  my  hotel  to 
them  1  at  the  same  time  drew  my  revolver  and 
placed  it  carefully  and  conspicuously  upon  my 
knees.  Whether  it  was  the  particular  words 
I  chose  in  which  to  convey  my  meaning,  or 
whether  it  was  the  sight  of  the  large  (but  un- 
loaded) revolver  that  impressed  them,  I  do  not 
know,  but  in  a  few  minutes  we  were  again  in 
Harteman  Street  and,  in  obedience  to  a  second 
firm  and  forcible  command  on  my  part,  were 
making  for  the  outer  wall  and  leaving  the  hotel 
behind  u=. 

At  about  midday  we  reached  a  massive  gate, 

Vol.  xi.-77. 


mill  iiJlih 


1  I 


Mil-:  c;atr  ok  the  imysteriou*;  tf.mhi.k.  of  thf.  ghand  i.i.ama —     ['UIOn  to 

1900,    so    KAK    AS    IS    KNOWN,    NO   EUROPEAN     HAD    EVER    ENTEKED    THIS 
From  a]  STRANGE    I'f.ACE   AND    RETURNED    ALIVE."  [P/tOtO. 


made  apparently  of  cedar-wood  anu  beautifully 
carved  ;  the  coolies  stopped,  and  I  found  myself 
at  last  at  the  gate  of  the  mysterious  temple  of 
the  Grand  I-lama.  So  pleasing  was  the  sight 
of  this  gate  that  my  anger  disappeared,  and  I 
paid  the  undeserving  coolies  a  week's  salary 
for  their  services.  A  thousand  Chinese  "  cash  '' 
I  gave  them  in  that  moment  of  reckless  gener- 
osity, and  since  tliere  were  two  of  them  they 
received  the  equivalent  of  just  sixpence  each  I 
I'or  some  minutes  I  stood  in  the  roadwav 
and  contemplated  the  gate  of  the  Llamaserai. 
Then,    having    looked    in    vain    for    a    bell,    1 

knocked  loudly 
with  my  stick. 
Presently  a 
Llamist  priest 
appeared  upon 
the  scene.  A 
mild  -  looking 
person  he  was, 
clothed  in  a 
long  yellow 
gown  that  had 
seen  far  better 
days,  and  carry- 
ing in  his  hand 
a  rosary.  He 
did  not  strike 
me  at  all  as  the 
kind  of  man  to 
do  one  to  death 
in  an  artistic 
manner  ;  in  fact, 
I  could  hardly 
imagine  a  more 
peaceful-looking 
person,  and  but 
for  the  fact  that 
he  had  neither 
a  venerable  nor 
an  intellectual 
have  stepped  straight 
out  of  the  pages  of  "  Kim.'"  His  evident 
mildness  of  disposition,  however,  did  not 
prevent  hiui  from  refusing  to  admit  me.  The 
gate  was  opened  a  few  inches,  and  I  was 
told,  so  far  as  I  could  gather  from  tlie  tone  of 
voice  adopted,  that  his  Eminence  the  Grand 
Llama  was  "  not  at  home."  But  I  was  not  to 
be  deterred  by  such  a  trifle  as  that,  so  I  smiled 
and  bowed,  placing  both  hands  on  my  knees  in 
approved  Eastern  manner,  and,  having  done  so, 
took  out  my  card-case,  gave  him  a  card,  care- 
fully turning  down  a  corner— as  I  thought  his 
Eminence  might  possibly  have  some  wives  and 
families  to  be  thought  of — and  told  him 
to  take  it  to  his  master.  I  dare  say  he 
had     never     seen    a    plain    ordinary    visiting- 


I  ill 


appearance    he 


might 


6io 


THE    WIDE    WOKEH     MAGAZINE. 


gate 


card    before,    and    probably    lie    did    not    teel 
quite   certain    what  to    do    with    the    one    he 
held  in    his    hand    at    that    moment  ;    but,    as 
far  as  I  was  concerned,  any  excuse  for  gainmg 
admittance    was    better   than   none,    and    this 
appeared    to   be   the   simplest   way   of  gettmg 
rid    of   the   priest. 
As    I    expected, 
he  disappeared 
leaving     the 
unlocked  1     Here, 
then,    was    my 
opportunity,    of 
which    I    was    not 
slow    in     taking 
advantage.     I    en- 
tered  the  grounds 
of  the  temple  and 
found  myself  in  a 
courtyard     sur- 
rounded   with 
handsome      build- 
ings and   contain- 
ing  a  considerable 
number    of    trees. 
Having    glanced 
(juickly     round     I 
carefully     closed 
the  gate,  not  wish- 
ing    my   simple- 
minded    friend    to 
get  into  trouble  on 
my    account,    and 
walked   to   a   seat 
under  someshelter- 

ing  trees,  where  I  lit  a  cigarette  and  sat  down 
to  await  eventualities. 

At  this    point   the   humour   of  the   situation 
occurred  to  me.      Here  was  I,  an  undergraduate 
of  Cambridge,  sitting  at  my  ease  and  smoking  a 
peacirful   cigarette  in   the  mysterious  forbidden 
lemple  of  the  Llamas,  in  efforts  to  enter  which, 
if  report    spoke    truly,    many     Europeans    had 
lost    their   lives !      I   sat   watching  a  group  of 
l.lnmist  priests,   who   were    to  all    appearances 
nuslirig     coffee    under    the    shade     of     some 
trees    a    few   yards   off.      So    engrossed    were 
ihesf    men    in     their     coffee-roasting     that     it 
was  a    long    time   before    I   was    noticed.     At 
letigth     one   of  the  group,    attracted,    perhaps, 
by  the  flash  of  a  waistcoat  button  or  the  gleam 
of  a  white   I'anania,  spoke   to   his  companions 
and    pointed    me    out    to    thc-m.       The    coffee- 
roasting  stopped  abruptly  and  one  of  the  party 
set  out  in   my  direction   to  investigate  what  was 
to  them,  I  supp(jse,  an  interesting  phenomenon. 
I  snap-shotted   him  as  he  came  from  under  the 
shadow  of  the  trees,  l)ut  he  seemed  riuite  un- 
conscious of  the  operation.     As  he  approached 


A    LLAMIST    I'KIKST    lllin  Ot,KAFHRD    BY  THE   AUTHOR. 


I  rose  and,  following  his  lead,  shook  hands, 
not  with  him,  l)Ut  with  myself,  according  ' 
to  the  excellent  custom  of  the  country. 
Then  I  waited  with  some  interest  to  see 
in  what  direction  the  conversation  would  turn. 
But  he  said  nothing  whatever,  and  though  I  am 

not     naturally     in- 
clined   to    be   ner- 
vous or   bashful  I 
felt    a     little    em- 
barrassed.     Some- 
one had   to   begin 
the     conversation, 
and  as   the  monk 
still  refused  to  take 
the    initiative    I 
broke    the   ice 
myself.     "Good 
afternoon,"  I  said, 
throwing  away  my 
cigarette,     for     he 
looked  an   ascetic 
and  I  did  not  wish 
to  offend  him.     It 
seemed    a     feeble 
remark    at    best 
and  sounded  very 
crude    in     plain 
English,    but    it 
evidently    made   a 
good     impression, 
for  he  shook  hands 
with  himself  again 
most  cordially  and 
I   did    the    same 
myself.     The   conversation,   having   opened  so 
happily,  closed  again  for  the  time  being,  and  I 
was  trying  to  think  of  another  speech,  one  that 
should,  if  possible,  be  even  more  eloquent  than 
the  last,  when  the  monk  volunteered  an  obser- 
vation on  his  own  account,  the  exact  nature  of 
which  I  was  unable  to  grasp.     It  was  an  invita- 
tion  to  do  something,   but  I   was  at  a  loss  to 
know  exactly  what,  as  the  sounds  he  made  were 
like   the  noise  of  a  gramophone  working  back- 
wards.    I  accepted  the  invitation,  however,  and 
followed  it  up  with  a  request  for  him    to  show 
me  round  the  grounds  and  take  me  into  some 
of  the  buildings,  making  gestures  to  explain  my 
meaning.      Fortunately,  he  fell  in  with  my  plans 
and  led  me  off  towards  his  coffee-roasting  friends, 
who,   I   discovered  at   this   juncture,    were    not 
roasting    coffee    at    all,     but    performing    their 
devotions  by  means   of  Tibetan  prayer-wheels 
— cylinders    which    they    were    slowly    twisting 
round  after  having  placed  in  them  long  strips  of 
paper  on  which  prayers  were  written. 

More  Chinese  salutations  followed,  and,  these 
over,  my  guide  led  me  away  to  the  main  building 


THK     MOSl-    INACCESSIBLE    I'LACK    IN    CHINA. 


6ir 


of  tlie  temple  Miitcrin^  il  I  found  innumerable 
statues,  some  of  very  line  workmanship.  ^Ve 
paused  tor  some  tune  before  a  gigantic  statue  of 
Ikiddha,  fully  fifty 
feet  high,  with 
outstretched  arms. 
IjV  signs  my  guide 
informed  me  that 
the  great  gilt 
statue  was  made 
of  a  single  piece 
of  wood,  a  state- 
ment I  felt  obliged 
to  doubt,  as  a 
close  examination 
revealed  marks 
that  looked  sus- 
piciously hke  joints 
m  the  fabric.  In 
another  building  I 
noticed  that  a 
service  was  in  pro- 
gress, and  here  I 
found  ample  food  ^     . 

for  thought.      The 

shrines  and  statues  I  had  seen  up  to  the  present, 
both  in  this  temple  and  others,  had  made  me 
wonder  at  the  really  striking  similarity  between 
these  temples  and  the  Christian  churches  to 
be  ,  seen  all  over 
Europe.  These 
Lla mists  in  their 
yellow  robes,  too, 
greatly  resembled 
Russian  bishops, 
and,  now  that  I 
watched  and  lis- 
tened while  the 
service  was  taking 
place  in  the  temple, 
I  could  hardly  be- 
lieve that  I  was 
not  attending  a 
Christian  service. 
There  was  a  strong 
smell  of  incense, 
and  while  a  kind 
of  litany  was  being 
sung  the  voices  of 
a  choir  of  some 
fifty  boys  alter- 
nated with  those 
of  the  j)fiests.  At 
times  the  clicking 
of  rosaries  could 
be     heard     above 

the  voices.  The  service  was  extremely  interest- 
ing, hut  it  was  getting  late.  I  hurried  my  guide 
along    and    persuaded    him    to    lake    me    to   a 


ANCIENT    TIKETAN     FH A YEK- WHEELS    HKllM     l.HASSA. 

From  a  Photo. 


HIE     riME-TAHl.E    OI-    THE    FKIESTS'    DUTIES    HUNG   ON    THE    MONASTENV 
Frow  a\  WAi.i..  {Plioto. 


smaller  building,  richly  decorated,  and  standing 
at  some  distance  from  the  one  we  had  just  left, 
lint  he  was  unwilling  to  enter,  and  directed  my 

attention  to  a 
couple  of  splendid 
old  stone  prayer- 
wheels  that  stood 
near  the  wall. 

The  Tibetan 
method  of  saying 
prayers  is  dis- 
tinctly quaint.  A 
cylinder  is  con- 
structed and  the 
prayers  are  either 
carved  upon  its 
surface  or  placed 
inside  it,  written 
on  .slips  of  paper. 
The  cylinders  vary 
greatly  in  design 
and  size  and  are 
used  in  many 
different  ways. 
Some  are  only  a 
few  inches  in  length  and  are  carried  in  the  hand, 
while  others,  as  large  as  water-butts,  are  mounted 
over  streams,  so  that  the  water  spins  them  round 
as  it   passes   below.     Others,  again,   are  placed 

where  the  wind 
will  cause  them  to 
turn  continually. 
I'he  prayer-wheels 
my  Llama  was 
now  showing  me 
were  some  of 
special  interest 
and  great  value. 
Ivach  was  made  of 
a  single  piece  of 
stone,  and  had 
been  brought  from 
{■AX  -  away  Lhassa 
many  years  ago 
by  the  original 
founders  of  the 
L  1  a  m  a  s  e  r  a  i . 
Though  exposed 
to  view,  they  were 
far  too  .sacred  for 
common  use  and 
were  carefully  pre- 
served, each  under 
a  separate  roof,  in 
this  sheltered  part 
of  the  grounds. 
Eventuallv  we  reached  the  door  of  the  build- 
ing I  was  anxious  to  enter,  but  still  the  y)riest 
hesitated.     .At  that  moment,  as  luck  would  have 


6l2 


THE    WIUK     WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


it,  my  revolver  slipped  from  my  belt  and  fell  at 
his  feet. 

Stooping  and  picking  up  the  revolver,  the 
priest  begged  me  to  allow  him  to  carry  it  for  me. 
I  declined  the  offer,  with  thanks,  but  asked  him 
to  be  so  good  as  to  hold  a  string  of  "cash  " 
which  I  passed  him.  He  was  now  perfectly 
willing  to  take  me  into  the  mysterious  room, 
and  we  accordingly  entered.  A  large  cupboard 
near  the  door  contained  some  vestments 
evidently  worn  by  the  Grand  Llama  on  special 
occasions.  The  robes  were  of  yellow  and 
richly  embroidered,  and  there  were  a  few  truly 
wonderful  hats  shaped  somewhat  like  a  Roman 
helmet,  with  a  colossal  plume  surmounting  the 
top  of  the  crown.  At  the  far  side  of  the  room 
were  some  curtains,  and  on  pulling  these  aside  I 
was  astonished  to  find  a  great  number  of  gold 
statues.  These  were,  no  doubt,  the  most  valuable 
possessions  of  the  Llamaserai.  The  statues 
consisted  of  si.\  sets,  having  about  ten  figures  in 
each.  Animals  of  various  species  were  repre- 
sented, but  of  the  design  I  can  only  say  that 
it  was  in  every  case  extraordinary.  As  the 
figures  varied  m  height  between  ten  and  fifteen 
inches  their  intrinsic  value  would  be  consider- 
able. 

'I'hose  who  have  read  "Dr.  Nikola"  will 
remember  the  inaccessible  nature  of  this 
Llamaserai,  as  described  therein,  and  will 
wonder  why  I  was  not  by  this  time  being  tor- 
tured by  the 
priest.s,  having 
my  eyes  burnt 
out,  for  exam- 
ple, or  being 
made  to  ride  on 
a  spiked  saddle, 
or  merely  being 
I)ushed  over  a 
precipice  ;  but 
the  present 
seemed  to  be 
a  close  season 
for  the  armed 
"  foreign  devil," 
and  though  I 
saw  Ml  a  n  y  a 
sullen  look 
a  n  tl  m  a  n  y  a 
threat  e  n  i  n  g 
expression  in 
the  fares  of  the 


Llamas,  a  glimpse  of  the  revolver  to  which 
I  have  referred  would  always  bring,  if  not  a 
pleasant,  at  least  a  peaceable,  look  mto  the 
eyes  of  even  the  most  evil-looking  priest  I 
encountered. 

My  guide  next  pointed  to  a  framed  time-table 
of  the  priests'  duties  which  was  hanging  on  the 
Serai  wall,  and  this  I  took  to  be  a  gentle  hint 
that  he  had  no  more  time  to  place  at  my  dis- 
posal. I  signed  to  him,  therefore,  that  I  would 
not  trouble  him  further,  and  after  once  more 
shaking  hands  with  himself  he  took  his 
departure — with  my  coins,   of  course. 

The  priest  I  had  first  met  now  appeared 
upon  the  scene,  bringing  with  him  a  piece  of 
paper  about  six  inches  long  and  half  as  broad, 
on  which  were  printed  some  ext  aordinary 
remarks  which,  owing  to  my  ignorai  e  of  the 
language,  I  was  unable  to  fully  appreciate.  I 
concluded,  however,  that  this  was  nothmg  less 
than  the  visiting-card  of  his  Eminence  the  Grand 
Llama. 

My  companion  and  I  were  now  opposite  the 
gate  through  which  I  had  entered  some  hours, 
before.  It  was  still  unlocked,  I  noticed,  so, 
having  taken  a  polite  farewell  of  the  priest,  I 
opened  it  and  returned  safely  to  the  outer 
world.  In  a  neighbouring  street  I  found  a 
rickshaw,  and  my  coolie  making  his  way  speedily 
through  a  surly-looking  crowd  we  gained  a  safer 
part  of  the  town  without  any  mishap,  and  finally 

reached  the 
hotel.  An  hour 
later,  over  a 
dinner  for  which 
I  had  a  good 
appetite  —  for  I 
had  had  no  food 
since  leaving 
the  hotel  in  the 
morning  —  I 
was  telling  my 
friends  my  ex- 
periences and 
they  were  con- 
gratulating me 
on  my  safe  re- 
turn from  what 
has  always  been 
regarded  as  the 
most  inaccessi- 
ble place  in 
China. 


WE   CAINEl)   A    SAKKU    I'AUT    ..I-    'IHR   TOWN    Ulllh.l.   r    MIsUAl'. 

hroiii  a  Photo. 


What  Happened  at  Morelia. 


By  Alvah  Jackson  Stone. 

The  author  is  an  architect,  and  while  engaged  in  supervising  some  repairs  at  the  Cathedral  of 
Morelii  Mexico,  met  with  a  terrible  adventure.  For  over  two  hours  he  hung  suspended  from  an 
iron  s'l   pie  two  hundred    feet    above    the   ground,  only   the    strength    of  his    coat   saving  him  from 

being  dashed  to  pieces. 


HAVE  been  in  pleasanter  towns 
thon  Morelia,  Mexico,  where  in 
summer-time  the  sun  dallies  in  the 
heavens  for  fifteen  hours  out  of  the 
twenty -four,  reducing  everything, 
annnate  and  inanimate,  to  the  consistency  of  a 
highly-baked  biscuit.  But  business  carried  me 
to  the  little  Mexican  town,  and  there  I  had  to 
remain  until  I  had  got  through  with  my  work. 

I  was  just  beginning  my  career  as  an  architect 
at  that  period,  and  as  times  were  hard  personal 
dignity  had  to  be  kept  in  the  background, 
which  meant  that  when  I  could  not  obtain  a 
job  for  the  employment  of  my  brains  alone  I 
would  accept  one  where  a  certain  amount  of 
manual  work  had  to  be  done  also.  That 
explains  how  it  was  that  I  came  to  have  charge 
of  the  business  of  repairing  the  tower  of  the 
local  cathedral,  as  the  natives  liked  to  call  their 
church. 

This  tower,  an  object  dear  to  the  hearts  of 
the  Morelians,  had  got  into  a  very  insecure 
condition,  owing,  probably,  to  a  succession  of 
earth  tremors.  Now,  after  several  weeks'  work, 
I  had  restored  it  td  a  condition  of  stability,  and 
nothing  remained  but  to  execute  a  little  "  point- 
ing "  work,  for  which  purpose  substantial  staples 
bad  been  driven  into  the  brickwork  in  order  to 
support  "  chairs  "  for  the  workmen — as  lazy  a 
lot  of  scamps  as  it  has  ever  been  ray  ill-fortune 
to  encounter. 

One  night  the  heat  was  so  oppressive,  and 
the  strident  hum  of  the  mosquitoes  so  intoler- 
ably irritating,  that  I  tossed  about  my  bed  in  a 
vain  endeavour  to  court  sleep.  At  length,  just 
as  signs  of  dawn  were  appearing  in  the  sky,  I 
rose  hastily  and  threw  on  my  clothes,  anxious 
to  leave  a  bed  of  unrest.  Outside  the  house 
things  were  little  better,  and   I  debated   in  my 


mind  what  I  could  do  to  occupy  the  time. 
Suddenly  it  occurred  to  me  to  ascend  the  tower 
of  the  cathedral  and  see  what  sort  of  work  my 
men  had  been  putting  in  the  day  before.  At 
least  it  could  hardly  be  hotter  up  aloft,  I 
reflected,  and  perchance  I  might  find  a  cooling 
breeze. 

I  was  soon  sitting  on  one  of  the  work- 
men's "  chairs,"  suspended  by  ropes  from 
stout  iron  staples,  with  a  sheer  drop  of  two 
hundred  feet  to  the  street  below.  There  was 
certainly  a  cooler  current  of  air  where  I  was, 
and  this  was  rendered  all  the  more  delightful  as 
I  thought  of  the  terrible  heat  in  the  sweltering 
city  far  below  me.  Not  a  soul  was  to  be  seen, 
and  as  it  was  about  three  o'clock  there  was  not 
likely  to  be  anyone  stirring  for  some  hours.  My 
men  were  due  to  commence  work  at  6.30  a.m., 
though  it  was  often  nearer  seven  before  they 
put  in  an  appearance. 

I  was  reclining  lazily  in  my  lofty  seat,  enjoying 
the  cool  air  and  far-reaching  prospect,  when 
suddenly  I  heard  an  ominous  snap,  followed 
immediately  afterwards  by  a  second  one,  and 
before  1  could  realize  what  had  happened  my 
seat  of  an  instant  ago  was  dropping  like  a  stone 
through  space  until  it  fell  with  a  crash  into  the 
street  beneath  ! 

Luckily  I  retained  the  presence  of  mind 
which  a  long  acquaintance  with  lofty  positions 
has  given  me.  Simultaneously  with  the  break- 
ing of  the  rope  and  the  collapse  of  the  chair,  I 
clutched  with  both  hands  at  the  staples  while  I 
was  in  the  very  act  of  falling.  Thus  I  hung 
against  the  side  of  the  tower,  over  a  death  that 
was  fearful  to  contemplate.  It  was  fortunate 
for  me  that  the  strength  of  the  staples  was  above 
suspicion.  They  had  been  driven  far  into  the 
solid  masonry,  until  they  were  equal  to  support- 


6i4 


JnP   a  vvei'^ht  much  greater  than  mine 
could  find°no  foothold.     I  swung  my  legs  about 
Slv  butthe  newly-pointed  bncks  offered  no 
Tedg/upon  which  to'rest  them      I  gave  up  the 
attempt'  exhausted,   and    a    dreary   feehng    of 
hopelessness  stole  over  me      I  should 
nori  knew,  be  able  to  hold  on  very 
lonL      Already    the    muscles   of    my 
arnis,  stretched  to  their  fullest  capa- 
city,  ached   violently  with  the  stram. 
Involuntarily    I    glanced    below    me. 
Vcs  there  was  a  sheer  drop  mto  the 
street;    1     had    only    to    loosen    my 
hands,  and  in  a  few  seconds  I  shou  d 
be   like    the   shattered   chair   I    could 
see  down  there  on  the  ground. 

There  was  no  one  in  sight.  Indeed, 
it  would  be  fully  two  hours  before 
there  was  likely  to  be  anyone,  fur  it 
had  only  just  struck  four.  But  how 
was  I  to  hold  on  for  two  hours,  belore 
which  time  there  was  but  little  hope 
of  rescue?  1  had  only  been  sus- 
pended for  about  two  minutes,  and 
already   I   felt  iti  ex 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE 
But  I 


Inmis.  No ;  I  felt 
instinctively  I  was 
doomed.  I  should 
hold  tight  until  I 
could  do  so  no 
longer,  and  then  — 
well,  a  rush  through 
the  air  and— Heaven 
send  it  '—oblivion,  ^ 

To  add  to  my 
troubles  at  this  junc- 
ture the  rays  of  the 

sun   now  beat   upon 

my  position  and 

l)egan  to  render  me 

uncomfortably    hot, 

until    I    commenced 

to   feel    that    even 

should   I   manage  to 

retain    my   hold    on 

th<:  staples   I   should 

fall  a  virtim   to  sun- 
stroke  and   drop   to 

the  ground   in  an  in- 
sensible   condition. 

Curiously     enough, 

throughout  the  whole 

of  this  terrible  ordeal  i 

my  one  all-absorl)ing 

dread  was    that   I 

should   rt't.Tin  my   senses   in  the  act  of   falling 

and   at  the  awful   moment  when   I  reached  the 

ground. 

I  must  here  explain  iiow  it  was  that   I   had 


ww^ 


I  Ml.l>    UllH    ItDlH    HANDS    WHILE 
ACT   OF    FALLING." 


been  able  to  reach  my  lofty  perch,  and  yet,  now 
that  the  "  chair  "  had  given  way,  could  not  get 
back  I  had  climbed  through  the  opening  of 
the  belfry  About  three  feet  below  were  two 
staples     from     which     a    "chair"    had    been 

suspended    the    day 
before.     A    few  feet 
below  this  again  were 
a  second    pair    of 
staples    supporting 
the  "  chair  "  I  had  so 
recently    occupied. 
By  cautiously  lower- 
ing   myself,    first    to 
one  set  of  staples  and 
then   to  the  other,  I 
got  down    to   the 
"chair"     easily 
enough.     To    get 
back  again  while  the 
"chair"  was  in  posi- 
tion   was    a     simple 
enough     matter 
(though  the  workmen 
used   a    rope   over  a 
pulley  to  assist  them), 
but  to  get  back  whilst 
hanging  by  one's 
hands  from  the  lower 
.set  of   staples  was  a 
very  different  pro- 
ceeding— an  impos- 
sibility for  me,  in 
fact,  for  I  could  get 
no  foothold. 

A   quarter-past 
four  struck  out  from 
the    cathedral    clock 
far    below.       "Only 
fifteen     minutes,"     I 
groaned  in  agony,  as 
I  endeavoured  to  re- 
lieve the  torture 
which   the  aching  of 
my  arms  was  causing 
me.     AVas  there  any 
means    by   which    I 
could     mitigate    the 
intolerable  strain? 
Unless   I   could 
solve     the     problem 
speedily  it  would  be 
too  late. 

I  tried  crooking 
my  arms  and  hang- 
ing from  the  elbow -joint,  but  anyone  who 
has  done  that  on  a  horizontal  bar  will  realize 
the  pain  it  can  cause  one.  And  I  was  not 
hanging   to  a  horizontal  bar,  but  to  rough  iron 


WAS    IN    THE    VERY 


WHAT    HAPPENED    AT    MOREEIA. 


615 


staplfs,  which    tore  my  flesh  cruelly.      I    let  go 
with   one  hand  as  an  exi)eriment,  on\y  to  catch 
hold   again    in    a    cold    sweat    as   I   felt    myself 
about  to  drop.       'I'hen,    as    I    hung    painfully, 
a    desperate    idea  came   into  my    head.       If    I 
could    manage    to    force    my    coat    on    to    the 
staples    I    might    be    able    to   relieve   my  arms 
somewhat.      1  set   to  work   at  once  to  do  this, 
but  owing  to  the  cramped   state  I  was  in  I  had 
to  proceed  very  cautiously.      In  onler  to  get  the 
lapel  of  my  coat  level  with  the  staples   1  had  to 
draw  myself  up — 
what  an  effort  it  cost 
me  ! — until    my    chin 
was  four  inches  above 
them.     Then,   sup- 
l)urting  myself  by  one 
arm,  I  forced  my  coat 
on  to  a  hook.      This 
in  itself  was  no  mean 
task,  for   I    was  wear- 
ing   a    coat    of    hard 
cord.      How   thankful 
I  was  that  I  had  rele- 
gated my  white  cotton   " 
jacket  to  the  wash  the 
night  before,  and  had 
not  been  able  to  put 
my  hand   on  a  clean 
one  ! 

Having  hooked  my 
coac  by  the  lapel,  I 
next  caught  hold  of 
it  near  the  last  button- 
hole on  the  same  side, 
and  pushed  that  on 
too,  so  that  on  the 
one  hook  I  had  fixed 
my  coat  twice.  This 
done,  I  proceeded 
with  infinite  caution 
to  do  the  same  to  the 
left  side  of  my  coat, 
fastening  it  twice  on 
to  the  other  staple. 
Then,  very  gently,  I 
tested  its  ability  to 
support  the  weight  of 

my  body,  releasing  slightly  the  grip  of  one  hand 
at  first,  then  taking  it  away  completely.  To  my 
joy  the  fabric  showed  no  sign  of  tearing,  and  I 
swung  my  freed  arm  about  to  restore  the  sense  of 
feeling  to  it.  After  a  few  minutes'  vain  endeavour 
to  do  this  I  tested  the  other  side  of  the  coat, 
which  appeared  to  hold  well  also.  Next,  in  fear 
and  trembling,  I  loosened  both  my  hands 
slightly,  and  being  reassured  by  the  stubborn 
way  in  which  the  coat  held  together  I  finally 
removed     my     hands    altogether,     and     swiuig 


FINALLY   REMOVED    MV    HANDS   ALTOGFTHER   AND   SWUNG 
HELPLESSLY    IN    THE   AIR." 


helplessly  in  the  air  suspended  from  the  two 
staples  by  my  coat  alone.  It  was  a  sickening 
feeling,  knowing  that  my  life  depended  at 
that  moment  on  the  strength  of  tfie  cloth  of 
which  that  garment  was  made,  but  even  had 
I  seen  it  giving  way  I  do  not  think  I  could 
have  held  on  by  jny  hands  again.  Bruised, 
bleeding,  and  numlj  they  were,  and  blistered 
by  the  now  scorching  rays  of  the  sun.  I 
had  arrived  at  that  stage  when  I  was  almost 
indifferent  whether  I  lived  or  died. 

At  that  moment 
the  clock  below 
chimed  the  half-hour 
— half-past  four  !  I 
had  been  hanging  by 
my  hands  for  practi- 
cally thirty  minutes, 
though  to  me  it 
seemed  as  many 
hours.  But  now  that 
my  arms  were  free  I 
felt  comparatively 
comfortable.  That 
maddening,  torturing 
strain  on  my  muscles 
was  over,  though  it 
was  replaced  by  a 
milder  one  on  the 
shoulders  where  my 
coat  dragged.  I  cal- 
culated now  that  in 
an  hour  I  ought  to 
see  someone  whose 
attt'olion  I  could  at- 
tract, and  I  made 
myself  as  easy  as  I 
could  under  the  cir- 
cumstances. 

I  would  willingly 
have  parted  with  five 
years  of  my  life  at 
that  moment  for  a 
good  draught  of  water 
to  alleviate  my  burn- 
ing thirst,  for  the  sun 
had  now  been  beating 
down  on  the  back  of 
my  neck  for  some  time,  and  my  experiments  at 
sucking  a  key  were  not  marked  with  the  success 
I  had  always  understood  followed  such  a  pro- 
cedure. There  w\is  nothing  for  it,  however, 
but  to  stop  there  until  help  came,  and  to  pray 
that  it  would  come  before  it  was  too  late — 
before  I  had  gone  mad  under  the  sun's  rays  or 
before  my  trusty  coat  gave  way. 

The  minutes  went  by  with  relentless  slowness, 
and  I  fancy  that  I  must  have  had  lapses  of 
unconsciousness    before    I    finally    heard    the 


.'<»^ 


6i6 


THE    WIDE    WORLD     MAGAZINE. 


cathedral  bell  strike  six.  Almost  at  that 
moment  a  man  turned  the  corner  of  the  street 
below,  strolling  along  with  true  Mexican 
indolence.  I  shouted  as  loudly  as  I  could— 
which,  owing  to  my  exhausted  condition,  was 
not  very  loud— and  the  fellow  looked  up 
listlessly.      I  waved  my  Inind^and  endeavoured 


weeks  I  was  laid  up  owing  to  the  breakdown  of 
my  nervous  system.  One  of  the  workmen, 
arriving  on  the  scene  shortly  after  6.30,  saw,  to 
his  astonishment,  a  figure  hanging  limply  high 
up  on  the  side  of  the  tower,  and  then  noticed 
on  the  ground  the  shattered  chair,  which,  with 
its     frayed  -  through     ropes,     was    eloquent    of 


"l    WAS    LOWERED   UNCONSCIOUS   TO   THE   GROUND." 


to  convey  to  him  that  I  was  in  severe  straits. 
Whether  he  took  me  for  one  of  the  workmen 
amusing  himself  I  do  not  know,  but,  at  any 
rate,  he  waved  his  hand  back  at  me  and  went 
on  out  of  sight. 

"(lood  heavens!"  I  exclaimed,  in  utter 
anguish  of  spirit  ;  and  then  I  knew  no  more. 

The  remainder  of  the  story  1  heard  from  the 
lips  of  the  doctor  who  attended  me  for  the  three 


disaster.  With  unaccustomed  energy  he  pro- 
cured ropes  and  assistance,  and  eventually  I 
was  lowered  unconscious  to  the  ground  and 
carried  to  my  house. 

Had  it  not  been  for  the  great  strength  of 
my  coat  fabric  there  is  no  doubt  that  I 
should  never  have  been  spared  to  tell  the  tale 
of  my  sufferings  on  that  dreadful  morning  at 
Morel  ia. 


The  'Blumencorso  at  Hamburg, 

By  Welland  Wright. 

The  great  water  carnival  of  flowers,  which  is  held  annually  on  the  Alster  Basin,  at  Hamburg, 
possesses  many  points  of  interest  and  novelty  for  the  tourist  familiar  with  water  fetes  in  England 
and  America.  The  Hamburg  people,  rich  and  enterprising,  enthusiastic  lovers  of  water  sport, 
leave  no  effort  lacking  to  make  their  Blumencorso  one  of  the  great  spectacles  of  a  Continental 
summer,  and  many  thousands  travel  long  distances  yearly  to  see  it. 


ME  brief  .sub-title  above  contains 
the  gist  of  this  article,  and  those 
who  are  too  busy  to  bother  about 
water  carnivals  need  go  no  farther. 
But  there  are  water  carnivals  and 
water  carnivals.  There  are  some  in  which  a 
few  decorated  boats  strive  almost  ingloriously 
to  uphold  the  dignity  of  the  spectacle,  and 
others  in  which  decorative  designs  as  antique  as 


ful  from  all  [)oints  of  viesv  that  it  stands  apart 
from  all  other  water  fetes  as  a  perfect  diamond 
stands  apart  from  a  piece  of  paste.  The  jaded 
onlooker  can  reap  from  it  the  benefit  which 
always  comes  with  something  new,  ond  the 
tourist  who  has  never  seen  anvthing  of  the  sort 
can  carry  with  him  from  the  banks  of  the  Alster 
an  unforgetable  picture.  It  ap[)tals  unmistak- 
ably to  eye  and  sense  of  beauty.     It  is  done 


A    GENERAL   VIEW    OF   THE   CORSO,    SHOWING   THE   GREAT    VAKIETV   OF   CRAFT    IN    THi:    CARNIVAL    I'KOCE.S.SION— IN    THE 
From  a]  background    are   the   .SET-PIECES    for    the    pyrotechnic    DISPLAY.  \l  hoto. 


"roiii  a] 

tiic  hills  are  revamped  yearly  in  the  hope  of 
tricking  the  onlooker.  It  is  no  wonder,  then, 
if  we  sometimes  wink  with  our  left  eye  at  the 
name  of  water  fete.  Even  when  it  is  called  a 
"  Blumencorso  "  there  is  still  some  ground  for 
shying  at  it. 

The  Hamburg  Carnival  is,  however,  so  novel, 
so  picturesque,  so  lavishly  carried  out,  so 
enth'isiastically  participated  in,  and  so  success- 

Vol.  .xi,— 78. 


with  taste.  It  achieves  high  purpose  in  gi\iiig 
complete  happiness  to  rich  and  poor  alike,  and 
turns  one  of  the  loveliest  stretches  of  water  in 
the  world,  for  a  ie.w  brief  hour':,  into  a  bower 
of  bloom  ;  weather,  of  course,  permitting. 

Sometimes  the  people  of  Hamburg  have 
been  sorely  disappointed  over  their  carnival 
when  days  and  days  of  preparation  have  ended 
grievously  in  an  afternoon  of  wet.     Water  fetes 


6i8 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


A     DofllLE-SClIMM;     SKIEI' 
From  a  I'/ioto.  i'y\ 


IN'     WHICH     THE      PALM      IS     USKD     WITH      EXCELLENT     ORNAMENTAL     EFFECT     IN     THE     STERN — AN 

Eitiin -;iAui-;i)  UACiN(;  .shell  is  shown  in  the  kackgkound.      [Simons  &^  J/iiniich,  //niti/utrg. 


and  rain  are  ever  enemies.  Luckily,  however, 
the  recent  carnivals  have  been  so  smiled  upon 
hy  fortune  and  so  successful  that  special  efforts 
are  being  shown  this  year  to  make  the  Blumen- 
corso  the  greatest  water  carnival  ever  held  in 
(ierniany.  \\'hat  this  means  can  be  apparent 
only  to  those  who  know  the  public  spirit  of 
opulent  Hanil)urg  and  the  resourcefulness  of 
all  who  have  the  carnival  in  hand. 


a  smaller  basin  within  known  as  the  Binnen- 
Alster.  On  three  sides  of  the  inner  Alster  are 
quays  beautifully  ornamented  with  trees  and 
fine  buildings,  the  fourth  side  of  this  square  of 
water  being  formed  by  public  promenades 
connected  by  a  splendid  bridge.  This  basin  is 
upwards  of  a  mile  in  circumference.  The  outer 
Alster,  on  which  the  Bluinencorso  takes  place, 
is  more  expansive,  bordered  witii  lively  summer 


■  II. f.    KVIKV,    LINED   nil 


H-ijinUT  Willi 


'.'.  men    ATTKACI  !■  I>    W  IliE 
A.ND   TASTE. 


ArTIONTION    ii\      \ 

I  Simons 


.  ,r\  I    .  jr    MS    NEATNESS 
-  I Iciii)  icil,  I lii)iil'i<>-g. 


Nature  and  the  modern  engineer  have  worked 
tngether  in  giving  to  the  carnival-makers  an 
idea!  playground.  The  river  Alster,  flowing 
from  the  North  through  the  city,  forms  outside 
It  a  larjje  basin  known  as  thq  Aussen-Alster  and 


resorts,  magnificent  villas  and  groves,  where  the 
Hamburg  population  make  holiday.  Little 
steamers  ply  frequently  from  the  city  to  such 
favourite  places  as  Uhlenhorst,  Eppendorf,  and 
Harvestehude    and    make    the    trip   in   about 


THE    BLUMKNCORSO    AT    HAMHURC}. 


619 


twenty  minuies  at  remarkably  cheap  fares,  thus 
bringing  within  easy  reach  of  all  the  oppor- 
tunity of  a  pleasurable  outing.  In  the  summer 
season    millions    of   passengers    are   carried    by 


to  add  a  written  word.  Suffice  it,  therefore,  to 
say  that  the  flowers  used  for  decoration  are 
asters,  daisies,  sunflowers,  gladioli,  narcissi, 
pansies,   cornflowers,   lilies,  roses,    dahlias,   and 


A    DOUBLE-^CULLlNG    SKIFK    WITH    A    FLORAL   CROWN    OVER   THE   STERN — ONE   OF    THE    PRIVATELY    DECORATED    PRIZE-WINNERS. 

Front  a  Photo. 


these  little  boats.  The  day  of  the  Blumencorso 
is,  of  course,  a  special  holiday,  when  accom- 
modation is  taxed  to  the  utmost. 

The  carnival  is  made  up  of  a  procession  of 
floral  boats,  a  prize-giving,  and  a  fireworks  di.s- 
play.  In  the  procession  are  to  be  seen  big 
boat.s,  small  boats,  wide  boats,  narrow  boats, 
yachts,  launches,  skiffs,  dingheys,  racing-boats, 
and,  in  fact,  all  sorts  of  boats  under  the  sun 
except  punts,  all  profusely  covered  with  flowers 
of  all  kinds  in  season.  When  photographs  can 
give,  as  ours  give,  such  a  fine  idea  of  the  variety 
of  craft  in  the  carnival  it  is  perhaps  superfluous 


other  blooms,  common  or  expensive,  which 
best  lend  themselves  to  decorative  effect.  The 
latitude  given  to  the  decorator  is  great,  and 
thousands  of  marks  have  at  times  been  spent 
upon  a  single  boat.  It  is,  however,  for  taste 
and  effectiveness  in  decoration,  rather  than  for 
expenditure,  that  the  prizes  are  usually  won. 

The  boats  foregather  in  the  early  afternoon — 
usually  about  half-past  two  o'clock — and  await 
a  gun  signal  at  three  for  the  procession  to  start. 
This  is  made  near  the  so-called  Fiihrhaus 
restaurant  at  Uhlenhorst  (which  may  easily  be 
found  on  any  map  of  the  environs  of  Hamburg) 


THE    FLOWER    liARGK   OF    LOHENGRIN,    ONE   OF    THE    MOST   TASTEFUL   AND    I'ROBAIil.Y  THE    MOST    EXPENSIVE    DESIGN    SEEN    IN    MANV 
From  a]  YEARS   ON    THE   ALSTER.  [P/u>tO. 


620 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


A    sMAl.L    I... At     iVIIH    MA.ST    AND    SPAKS   OK    BAMBOO,    THE    MAINSAM,    AND  Jill    BEINi;     REPRESENl  ED    BY   SMALL 
FLOWERS  OF  VARIOUS   COLOURS   STRUNG   TOGETHER — THE   RAILS   OF    THE    BOAT   ARE    OKNAMENl  ED  WITH    A 

From  a  riwto.  hy\  si'ECIES  of  cactus — this  was  a  roruLAR   F'RIZE-winner.         [Sniions  ^^  Heinrich. 


and  the  Lohkoppel  Bridge.  The  scene  at  such 
a  time  is  one  of  loveliness,  a  fairyland  of  water. 
.Scores  of  boats,  manned  by  stalwart  youths  and 
fair  girls,  dart  in  and  out  amongst  each  other 
in  a  bewildering  profusion,  all  a  mass  of  flowers 
filling  the  air  with  a  delicious  perfume.  The 
course  is  marked  with  booms  and  carefully  kept 
clear  of  stray,  undecorated  boats  by  police 
launches,  busy  all  day  with  the  pressing  crowd 
of  sightseers.  When  the  gun  is  fired  the  line 
swings  into  motion  and  slowly  wends  its  way 
over  the  water  past  cheering  friends  and  stern 
judges  to  the  accom[)animent  of  music  and  the 
hum  of  atlmiring  delight. 

'I'hc  rowing  clubs,  of  which  Hamburg  is  full, 
vie  with  each  other  on  this  day  in  fitting  out 
special  boats,  representing  various  suljjects  of  a 
popular  nr  legendary  nature.  Some  are  repre- 
sented in  the  procession  by  over  a  dozen  boats, 
manned  as  the  subject  or  the  occasion  demands 
by  both  sexes  in  decorative  costume  or  in  plain, 
everyday  dres.s.  The  ladies  show  special  fond- 
ness for  white,  and  many  of  the  dresses  are 
expressly  made  for  the  fete  at  considerable 
expense.  Seated  at  the  helm,  often  in  a  bower 
of  flowers,  these  dainty  figures  in  white  add 
greatly  to  the  pretty  picture.  Innumerable 
pruate  bouts  are  also  to  be  seen,  single  and 
double  sculls,  each  ornamented  by  the  hand  of 


the  owner  or,  as 
often  happens, 
by  a  trained  gar- 
dener and  florist. 
J  he  big  steam- 
ship lines  con- 
tribute to  the 
spectacle,  the 
great  manufac- 
turers put  their 
hands  in  their 
pockets  for  this 
day  of  days  and 
accord  to  the  car- 
ni\al  a  generous 
su[)port,  and  both 
public  and  private 
purses  are  freely 
opened.  Those 
who  contribute 
may  or  may  not 
have  boats  in  the 
[procession,  but 
this  doesn't  really 
matter.  IMi  e  i  r 
gold,  in  one  way 
or  another,  has 
been  transmuted 
into  flowers. 
After  the  procession  has  filed  its  floral  way' 
across  the  outer  and  inner  Alsttfr  and  back  to  the 
Alsterlust — a  well-known  restaurant  and  head- 
quarters of  the  committee — a  battle  of  flowers 
takes  place  in  which  the  occupants  of  the  boats 
engage  with  extraordinary  zest.  In  the  twinkling, 
almost,  of  an  eye,  the  mirrored  surface  of  thewater 
becomes  a  veritable  carpet  of  flowers  on  which 
a  troop  of  water  sprites  might  fitly  tread.  Many 
look  upon  this  friendly  rivalry  as  the  prettiest 
incident  in  the  day's  proceedings,  and  the  battle 
wages  furiously  for  a  brief  period  to  the  delight  of 
crowds  upon  the  banks  before  the  dusk  draws  in. 
The  presentation  of  prizes  and  the  fireworks 
close  the  Blumencorso.  In  addition  to  the 
regular  prizes  there  are  a  large  number  of 
special  prizes  offered  by  public-spirited  citizens. 
These  include  gifts  of  money  and  a  variety  of 
trophies  to  the  decorators  and  crews  of  the  best- 
decorated  boats,  to  the  florists  who  have  laboured 
without  payment,  and  special  prizes  of  unique 
interest  to  those  who  take  the  trouble  to  decorate 
their  own  boats.  In  the  distribution  and  in  the 
Press  reports  of  the  carnival  the  name  of  the 
decorator  is  always  given.  This,  in  itself,  in- 
creases the  interest  of  professional  florists  in  the 
carnival,  and  partly  explains  the  continued 
novelty  in  design  which  has  made  the  Hamburg 
lilumencorso  the  best  of  its  kind. 


Odds   and    Ends. 


From  a\ 


A   Ship  that  "Went  to  Sleep" — A  Much -Travelled  Magazine -The  Industrious  Squaw — 
New  York  "  Scenery  "—A  Cuban  Ants'  Nest,  etc.,  etc. 

fish,  which  keeps  excel- 
lently on  the  curious 
stages  shown  in  the 
photograph. 

The  striking  photograph 
next  reproduced  shows  a 
unique     accident     which 
happened   recently  at 
Marcus     Hook,     on     the 
Delaware       River.       The 
I'rench  barque  Alice  and 
Isabtile   was  lying  at  the 
Standard   Oil  Company's 
[)ier,  after  her  cargo  had 
been   unloaded,    when 
suddenly,  after  a  few  pre- 
liminary  shakes    to    warn 
the  crew,  she  deliberately 
turned     over     until     her 
yard-arms  rested  upon  the  pier,  thus  preventing 
her  from  capsizing  completely.     Not  a  man  was 
injured,  and  only  a   few  ropes  aboard  the  ship 
were   broken.      It  is  surmised  that,    her  water 
ballast  tanks  being  almost  empty  and  the  ship 
thus   being   top-heavy,  the   wind   acting   on   her 
high   freeboard   threw  the   vessel  over.     It   was 
fortunate  for  all  concerned  that  the  ship  listed 
towards  the  pier  instead  of  towards  the  river. 


A    nOG-FOOD    STOREHOUSE    OF    THE    HUDSON  S    BAY    COMFANV. 


\Photo. 


HE  curious -looking  structure  here 
shown  is  not  a  bridge,  but  a  store- 
house. This  is  the  way  in  which 
fish  is  kept  for  dog-food  during  the 
winter  months  in  the  great  Canadian 
North  -  West.  At  the  inland  stations  of  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company,  where  seal  and  whale- 
meat  are,  of  course,  not  available,  the  Esquimaux 
dogs,  which  draw  the  sledges,  are  fed  on  white 


From  a 


A   SHIP   THAT    "went   TO   SLEEP    "—A    UNIQUE    ACCIDE.NT   TO    A    FRENCH    BAKQUE. 


I  /    'U'U'. 


622 


THE    WIDE    WORED    MAGAZINE. 


IIKAVKI.UKIJ    PdhTAL-WKArFEK — IT    CONTAINEO   A    "  WIDE 
•  I.IJ   MAGAZINE,"   AND  JOURNKVEU   TWENTV   THOUSAND 
/  rcilit  a]  MILES   IN   SEVENTV-TWO   DAYS.  [P/wto. 

The  above  photograph  is  a  facsimile  of  a 
iiui»h- travelled  postal -\vra[)pLr.  It  originally 
''•nlairied  a  copy  of  TnK  WiUK  Woki.D 
\|\<;.\ziNK,  and  was  posted  at  Dumbarton  on 
Inly  I  III),  1901,  addressed  to  an  engineer  on  a 
I '..I.S.N,  steamer  at  Calcutta.  It  duly  reached 
Calcutta  on  July  2.Sth,   but  the  addressee  had 

lii'd.  The  packet  dallied  in  Calcutta  for 
bome  days,  and  on  August  ist,  having  been 
redirected,  arrived  in  Madras.  But  the  engi- 
neer was  not  there,  so  the  magazine,  nothing 
daunted,  pursued  him  to  Jiombay,  arriving  on 
.September  9th.  Again  the  addressee  was  not 
to  be  found,  and  the  |)acket— now  decorated 
all  over  with  redirections  and  post-marks— set 
nut  for  Colombo,  in  C.ylon.  Mere  disappoint- 
ment again  awaited  it,  but  another  redirection 
saved  the  situation,  and  at  Rangoon,  in  Burma, 
it  finally  reached  the  errant  engineer,  after 
seventy  two  days  of  wandering.  The  magazine 
travelled,  roughly  speaking,  .some  twenty  thou- 
sand miles,  an  average  of  over  two  hundred 
and  seventy  per  day.  It  followed  and  met  five 
steamers  at  different  points,  and,  as  will  be 
seen  from  the  photo.,   the  original  address  is 


.-.J 


all  but  hidden  beneath  a  bewildering  array  of 
post-marks  and  redirections.  Instances  such 
as  this  are  splendid  testimonials  to  the 
energy  and  perseverance  of  a  hard-worked 
Post  Office. 

Railwaymen  in  foreign  lands  often  carry  on 
their  work  under  conditions  that  would  appal 
their  fellow -workers  at  home.  On  certain 
Central  African  railways,  for  instance,  trains 
have  frequently  been  charged  by  rhinoceroses 
and  other  large  beasts  ;  and  an  unhappy  tele- 
graph operator  on  the  Uganda  Railway,  on 
returning  to  his  station,  found  the  station- 
master  and  staff  barricaded  in  a  hut,  while 
two  big  lions  patrolled  the  platform  !  He 
promptly  wired  down  the  line  for  "  in- 
structions." The  edifice  seen  in  the  photo- 
graph shown  below  is  rendered  necessary 
by  very  similar  conditions.  It  is  a  hut 
built  for  the  pointsman  at  Walayar,  a  jungle 
station  on  the  Madras  Railway,  and  is 
intended  to  protect  its  occupant  against 
the  numerous  tigers  which  frequent  the 
vicinity.  These  ferocious  brutes  have  in  the 
past  manifested  an  unholy  taste  for  railway- 
men,  and  so  it  was  found  necessary  to  place 
the  men  at  isolated  spots  in  cages.  The 
timers  have  even  been  known  to  visit  the 
stations,  causing  dire  dismay  among  the  staff 
and  passengers. 


A    IOINTSMAN's   "  TIGER-liOX  "    ON    THE   MADUAS    KAILWAY. 

From  a  Photo. 


ODDS    AND    ENDS 


623 


A    UKDIMNG    INdCESSION    IN    EGYPT — THE    BRIDE    OCCUPIES   THE   CLOSED    LITTEK    ON    THE     FIUST 


Fioin  a\ 


CAMEL. 


The  accompanying  photograph  will  interest 
our  lady  readers,  for  it  depicts  a  wedding 
procession  in  the  land  of  the  Pharaohs.  The 
poor  "  fellah "  of  the  Nile  Delta  makes  as 
much  fuss  of  his  wedding  as  he  can,  for 
it  costs  him  a  lot  of  money.  Everything, 
indeed,  is  conducted  on  a  hard  cash  basis, 
commencing  with  the  purchase  of  the  bride 
herself.  In  order  to  make  a  goodly  show, 
therefore,  the  bridegroom 
musters  all  the  horses,  camels, 
and  donkeys  he  can  lay 
hands  on  among  his  friends, 
besides  hiring  conveyances  for 
the  bride  and  her  family.  The 
wife,  however,  can  scarcely  be 
said  to  grace  the  brilliant 
pageant  with  her  presence,  as 
she  is  invisible,  being  seated 
in  the  closely  covered  litter 
seen  on  the  foremost  camel. 
The  essence  of  ladylike  be- 
haviour among  the  Moslems 
is  retirement,  and  the  more 
valued  a  bride  the  more  is  she 
guarded  from  the  public  gaze. 
So  she  is  immured  in  her  stuffy 
litter  while  the  miscellaneous 
cavalcade  winds  its  way  along, 
preceded  by  a  weird  and 
alarming  native  band,  to  the 
house  of  the  proud  and  happy 
bridegroom. 

Among  savage  races,  where 
the  women-folk  do  the  greater 
part  of  the   work,  the  duty  of 


attending  to  the  babies  has 
to  be  sandwiched  in  with 
a  multitude  of  other  occu- 
pations in  a  manner  which 
would    make    civilized 
mothers  gasp  with  astonish- 
ment.      Not    a     little    in- 
genuity is   sometimes  dis- 
played by  the  mothers  in 
arranging    things    so    that 
two    or    more    tasks    can 
be     accomplished     simul- 
taneously.     Look,    for    in- 
stance,   at    the    interesting 
little  snap-shot  here  shown. 
It  was  taken   at  the  north 
end   of  Vancouver  Island, 
B.C.,  and  shows  a  Kwakiutl 
Indian    squaw    busily    en- 
gaged   in    spinning,    while 
she  rocks  her  baby's  cradle 
—  cunningly    suspended 
from  a  dead  tree — with  a 
string  attached  to  her  big  toe!    The  "  papoose  " 
is  perfectly  happy,  the  mother  can  accomplish 
the    seemingly    impossible    feat    of    doing    two 
things    properly    at    once,    and    everybody    is 
satisfied  —  including    the    enterprising    photo- 
grapher who  secured  this  unique  picture. 

A  typical  bit  of  New  York  "  scenery "  is 
shown  in  the  photo,  on  the  next  page.  Resi- 
dents of  the  city  who  live  in  the  eligible  five  and 


[Photo. 


DOINr,   TWO   THINGS   AT  ONCE— A    KWAKIUTL   INOIAV    SQUAW    ENGAGED    IN   SPINNING   WHILE 
J-rOlll  a]  SHE    ROCKS    HER    ItAUV's   CKADLE   WITH    HEK    bIG  TOE  1  {PhoiO. 


624 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


From  a\ 


l"if-:'.,!,l)iitn£!J 

A     IVIICAL   BIT   OF    NEW    YORK    "sCENKKy"    l.V    TllK     ll' NIvMF.NT    DISTRrCT. 


[PJioto. 


six  story  tenements  known  as  "  flats  "  do  not 
possess  such  things  as  back-yards,  and  the  airing 
of  washing  is,  therefore,  somewhat  of  a  problem. 
The  difficulty  is  surmounted  by  having  the 
clothes-lines  suspended  from  masts  as  elevated 
as  the  houses.  All  the  ropes  are  double, 
passing  through  pulleys  on  the  masts  and 
leading  back  to  the  rear  windows  of  the  houses, 
each  story  having 
its  own  line.  As 
garments  are  hung 
out  they  are  pulled 
away  from  the 
building  until  the 
line  is  full.  (Jn 
washing-day,  then- 
fore,  the  view  from 
one's  baf:k  wind(jws 
is  weird  and  varie 
gated  ;  and  should 
a  sp<jrlive  breeze 
work  havoc  with 
an  overloaded 
mast,  and  so  bring 
disaster  and  con- 
fusion upon  tlv 
aerial  laundry,  noi 
a  little  excitement 
and  amusement  are 
afforded  the  dis 
interested  spec 
tator. 


The  dark  mass  seen  on  the  tree-branch  m 
the  last  photograph  is  a  C'uban  ants'  nest. 
These  nests  are  usually  of  enormous  size, 
running  to  five  or  six  feet  in  circumference. 
They  are  built  by  the  Bebehana  ant,  the  curse 
of  the  Cuban  farmers.  These  insects  march  in 
organized  bands  under  recognised  leaders,  and 
in  forty-eight  hours  will  stri[)  a  tree  of  every  leaf 

it  possesses.  The 
lirst  question  asked 
by  prospective  pur- 
chasers of  farms 
is  always,  "  Are 
there  any  Bebe- 
hana s  on  the 
land?"  This  ant 
l)est  is  almost  as 
serious  in  Cuba 
as  the  rabbit  pro- 
blem in  Australia, 
and  the  S[)anish 
(j  o  V  e  r  n  m  e  n  t 
offered  a  reward 
of  two  hundred 
thousand  dollars  to 
any  person  who 
could  devise  a 
means  of  clearing 
the  island  of  these 
destructive  in- 
sects, but  without 
avail. 


A    CUBAN     ANTS     NEST— TIIESK     ANTS    AKE     nil'.    Ctl.M-,    ..I       nil-:    coUNIRV,     AM) 
THE   CiOVERNMENT   OI-TEKED   A   REWARD   OK    TWO    IIUNOKKU    THOUSAND    DOLLARS 

J-rom  a]  for  a  means  of  destroying  them.  [Photo. 


INDEX. 


ACROSS   SUMATRA   IN   A   IMOTOR-CAR 

Illustrations  by  C.  J.  Staniland,   R.I..  and  from  Photograjjlis. 

ADRIFT   ON    A   RAFT 

Illustrations  by  E.  S.   Hodgson  and  from  Photographs. 

APOTHEOSIS    OF   SIMPSON,    THE 

Illustrations  by  W.  S.  Stacey. 

AVALANCHES        

Illustrations  from  Photographs. 


The  Viscount  (k  Soissons.  491 

//.    ./.    Hamilton.  300 

.../..    l.aiLTtiiK.  535 

Joiin  S'lCaff'ha/ii.  11 


RABV    I'ARADE,    A  

Illustrations  from  Photographs  and  a   Facsimile. 

BAHR-EL-GHAZAL,    ON   THE   MARCH    IN    THE 

Illustrations  from  Photographs. 

"BANG-YEE/'    THE   LOOTING   OF   THE  

Illustrations  by  W.  C.  .Symons  and  from  a   Photo.i;rapli. 

BESIEGED    IN   A   TREE  

Illustrations  by  Frank  P.  Mahony. 

"BUFFALO    BILL"    WON    HIS    NA^H•:,    HOW 

Illustrations  by  Gilbert  Holiday  and  from  Photographs. 

BURIATS,    AMONG   THE         

Illustrations  from  Photographs. 
BUSH,    A    MYSTERY   OF   THE  

Illustrations  by  Norman    H.    Hardy  and   from  a   Photograph. 

BUSHRANGERS,    THE    LA.ST   OF   THE 

Illustrations  by  Norman  H.   Harily  and  front  a   Photograph. 

"CALAMITV  JANE'     ■ 

Illustrations  by   H.   .Sandham  and   from    Photographs. 

CALULUT   AFFAIR,    THE        

Illustrations  by   R.    I!.    .M.    Pa.\lon  and   from  a   Photograph. 

CAPTAIN    \TCTOR,  THE    PURSUIT   OF 

Illu.strations  by  \V.   li.  W'ollen,   K.I.,  and  from  Photographs. 

CAPTIVE   KINGS,    THE    ISLAND   OF         

Illustrations   by  the  .Vuthor  and  from  Photographs  and  a  Facsimde. 

CARGO   OF   CATS,   A     

Illustrations  by  W.   C.   .Sjnions. 

CEIINA,  THE   MO.ST   INACCESSIBLE    I'LACE    IN 

Illustrations  fri>m   Photograph--. 


Theodore  Adams.  372 

Captain   //.    K.    J/aynirs,    A'..l.J/.C.  55 

...C'a/>tain    7'.    Costefto.  48 

C.   E.   (Joit/dsbnrv.  120 

I-'r,:diriik  Mooit .  42 

f.    //.    Ilau'cs,    H.A.  293 

/);-.    ./.    C'.    Walts.  403 

Jl,r/>->t  Sha7c.  26S 

ir.  (/.  I'altijson.  450 

l-'rcdcrie  Coleniaii.  151 

.S'eri,rant  Harry  iilrnn.     3f5,  434 

lli.x.    11.    h'lr':.  173 

Ishiiiore  A'ltssan.  3S3 
-/.  Ha//  Hall.  607 


fir5 


THE   WIDE   WORT>D   MAGAZINE. 


CIIIXKSE   GOD,   TlIK  STOKV    OF    MV     

Illustrations  hy  Paul  Hardy  and  from  J'liotograi)li>. 

"COXKVS   ARMY,"   THE   MARCH    OF 

Illustrations  by   H.  Sandham  and  from  Photographs. 

DFSKRT   TRAGKDV,    A  

Illustrations  by  E.  S.   Hodgson  and  from  a  Photograph  and  Maps. 

DETECTIVF   TX   THE   BARREL,   THF      

lllu--lrali.->ns  from  l'hoto:4raphs. 

EXTOMBEI)   IX    .\   C.M'SIZKI)   SHH>         ... 

Illustrations  by  K.  .'^.   H.idgson  and  from  Photographs. 

FE.MALE    HLR(.L.\R.    FRAXCTSCA   MACHALEK,  THE 

Illustrations  by  A.  I'earse  and  from  Photographs. 
FFXELOX,   THE   "HOLD-UP"   AT  

Illustrations  by  H.  .Sandham  and  from  Photographs. 

"KERRKT,"   THE   STR.ANGE  CASE   OE  THE 

Illustrations  by  E.  S.   Hodgson  and  from  Photographs. 

FLVL\(;    DUTCHMAX,   THE 

Illustrations  by  E.  S.   Hodgson  and  from  Photographs. 

(;.\LLALAXD,    SI'ORT   AXD    AD\  EXTURE    LX 

Illustrations  by  C.  J.  Staniland,  R.I.,  and  from  Photographs. 

on-.SN  <^)UEEX  EOUXn  HER  LOVER,  HOW  THE  ... 

Illu-trations  by  W.  .S.  .Stacey  and  from  Photographs. 

GOn-HOU.SE,   A   NIGHT   IX   A        

Illustrations  by  \V.  C.  .Symons. 


TACE 

J\obcyt  Banks.     407 
Frcdcriik  iMoorc.      I  So 


Captain  A.  Hilliard  Atterid:^e.  31 

Frederic  Lees.  263 

Frank  .V.   N'.    Dun  shy.  523 

...   I..   H.   Eiseni/iann.  62 

...     Wai/er  Geo7[i^e  Patterson.  3 

Joiin  Kennedy.  146 

Roger  Pocock.  477 

A.   Arke/l-Hardwiik,  F.K.G.S.     187,  217 

...  E.  Leslie  Gilliatns.  379 

/.   E.   Patterson.  577 


n.\.\n;LRG,  the  bllmencor.so  at   

Illustrations  from  Photographs. 

HAJ'J'EXIXG.S   OF   A   NIGHT,     Till.  

Illu--tr.'itions  by  J.   Finnemoru,   K.I.,  and  from  Photograph> 

HOIST    HV    HLS   OWX    PETARD       

Illustrations  by  Paul  Hardy  and  from  Photographs. 

HIXTIXG   THE   GIANT  TORTOI.SE  

Illustrations  from  Photograph-.. 


.       Welland  Wright.  617 

J.   E.   Patterson.  74 

//.   Mortimer  Lamb.  169 

.   Frederic  Hamilton.  25 


J.\P.\XESE  SIGXPOARDS,   .so^^•. 

Illustrations  from   Photographs. 

JOHX    GLO\ER   OF   TEXA.S    ... 
Illustrations  by  H.  .Sandham. 


Charles  Ashton.      157 
Colonel  J.   G.    Tucker.     364 


K\\<).    MV    E.XPERIEXCE.S    AT 
Illustrations  from  Photographs. 


'/'//(■   /wT'.    A.   E.    Richardson.      1 15,   256 


LlX.VnC.    MV    AIAKX'ILRE    WITH    A 

Illustrations  by  P.   I!.   Hitkliijg,  and  from  Pholograph.s. 

M.XCEDOXIA,    RAMBLES   IX 

Illuslr.-itii)ns  froni   Photographs. 

'•NL\I)    MI;LL.\H,"    AFTER   Till. 

llhi»tratiotis  from  Photographs. 

M.\X-.STEALERS,   THE 

Uluttralions  by  \V.  C!.  .Symons. 

MIXC.V,   OUR   ATTEMPT   To    RE.UMI      

Illiistr.itions  by  k.   1!.   M.   I'.ixt.jn, 

MEXICO,   THE   CAVE-I)\VELL1:RS   OF      

Illu^ttration.t  from  J'hotogr:iplis. 


Afrs.  Ethel  Mostyn.     546 

Herbert    J'ir-ian.     236 

Captain  .1.   H.    F>i.\on.     337,  42S 

Captain    Wilton  Forster.      124 

...  Feli.y  Jepson.      504 

Dr.  Carl  Lumholtz.     442 


INDEX. 


637 


MISHArS,    A   CIIAITKR   ()V 

Illustrations  by  A.   I'earsf  aiifl  from  ]'lioto.;;ra|)l]-.. 

"MONKEV"  

Illustrations  from   I'hotograplis. 

MONKS'    RKl'UKLIC,    TIIK       

Illustrations  from  Photographs. 
MOXTREUX,    TIIK    NARCISSUS    FKSTI\A1,    AT 

Illustrations  from   Photn^raphs. 

M^sTI■;R^'  of  siiakr  r.ow  nallkn'.  tiik  ... 

Illustrations  liy   H.   -Saiulliam  and  from   Photographs. 


IM.K 

IaTi^I  /•'laser.      107 


Daniel  Gibbons.  7  i 

//,7-b,'i    J '171,1  II.  151 

...   'I'lioinas  E.    Curtis.  32S 

Waller  G.   I'at/erson.  561 


''XEVER-NEVKR.'    IX    THE    EAXD    i)V   THE 

Illustrations  by  Norman   H.    Hardy. 

XI.\f;.U<A    RAX    DRV.    WIIEX  

Illustrations  from  Photograi)hs. 

XKIIIT   OF   HORRORS,    A       

Illustrations  by  X.   Pearse  and  from  Photographs  and  a  Sketch 

XUJHA   BRIDGE,   THE   SHRIXE   BV   THE         

Illustrations  by  Paul  Hardy. 


...  Alexander  Macdonald,  F.R.G.S.  195 

Orrin  E.   Dunlap.  472 

C.  M.  Stevenson.  'i,2i 

Robert  D.   Rudolf,  RED.,  AER.C.IV  2SS 


ODDS    AXD    EXDS  

Illustrations  from  Photographs. 

OUR   QUIET   LITTLE   SHOOTIXG    TRIT 

Illustrations  by  J.   Finneniore,  R.I. 


...  /-'roiii  all  farts  of  the   World.     99,  205,  30S,  41 1,  516,  621 

W.   C.  Jameson  Reid.     541 


PARIS    TO    XEW    YORK    (nERLAXD.— VL 

Illustrations  from  Photographs. 

I'OORA,    THE    RED    PIG   OF 

Illustrations  by  Major  E.  A.  P.  Hobday. 

PRISONS   OF   MANY   LANDS 

Illustrations  by  A.  Pearse  and  from  a  Photograph, 


. . .  Harry  dc  1 1  'indt,  E.  R.  G.  S.       89 

...     Captain  R.   J'.  Daz-idson.     592 

C/ia-t.   Cook,  E.R.G.S.     272 


(QUAGMIRE,    IX   THE   GRIT   OF   TUE 

Illustrations  from  Photographs. 


,7'//^  Hon.  W.  E.   Meehan.     131 


RAXGE   WAR,    THE        

Illustrations  from  Photographs. 
REFRIGERATOR,    A   THOUSAXD    MILES    IX    A 

Illustrations  by  H.   .Sandham. 

RIIIXO,    A   BATTLE   WITH    A  

Illustrations  by  Lawsoii  Wood  and  from  Photographs. 

ROTHENBURG,    THE   "  MEISTERTRUXK  "    .\T 

Illustrations  from  Photographs. 


Win.   MacEeod  Raine.  201 

Ralph  .Stock.  211 

.../>'.  Eastwood.  419 

Walter  Dexter.  2S4 


SACRED   TOWX   OF    MAXDH.\TA,    Till-: 

Illustrations  from  Photographs. 

SALT,    A   MOUXTAIN   OF        

Illustrations  from  Photographs. 

SHRIMP-GOD,   THE    LAXI)   OF   THE        

Illustrations  from  Photographs. 

•SOKOTO,  WITH    THE   BRITISH    TO  

Illustrations  from  Photographs. 

.SOLVIXG   OF   A   MY.STEKY,    THE 

Illustrations  by  W.  C.  .Symons. 

SOUTH   SEA  CAXXIBALS,    AMOXG    TIH'! 

Illustrations  from  Photographs. 

SPIES,    ARRE.STED    AS 

Illustrations  by  J.   Finnemore,  R.I.,  and  from  Photographs. 

SUMMER   RESIDEXCE,  A   UNIQUE  

Illustrations  from  Photographs. 


//'.   E.  S.   Macgre^ipor.     556 


j.1.1 


Denis  Donohoe,  Jnn.       36 
.Captain  Chas.   Eonlkes,   R.E.     356,  458,  529 

...Oitariiis  Bartlett.     279 

Captain  H.  Car  ley  Webster,  F.Z.S.     4S4,   569 

.-///(///  //.   Bmxoyne,  E.R.G.S.     465 

C.   E.  Johnsti^ne.     344 


628 


THE    WIDE    WORLD    MAGAZINE. 


SURKKV,   A  rUMA   HUNT   IX  

Illustrations  by  Norman  H.  Hardy  ami  fr'nn   Plioic.grai)lis. 


C   Stepliensoii.     511 


.    Michatl  Kuuripitz.     231 
Mrs.   Sabina  Lewis.     585 


TARDY  VINDICATION,  A        

Illustrations  by  J.    Finnemore,   K.I.,  and  from  Photographs. 

TRAGEDY  OF  THE  "MARIA"  AND  MY  PART  IN  IT,  THE    

Illustrations  by  Norman  H.  Hardy  and  from  a  Photograph. 
TRA>n'  IN  SPAIN,  A      Bart  Kennedy.      17,     161,    249,    388,    497,     551 

Illustrations  by  Warwick  Goble. 

TR.WVLKR,  TWO  THOUSAND  MILES  IN  A       

Illustrations  from  Photographs. 

TREASURE  WAS  S.WED,  HOW  THE        

Illustrations  by  W.  .S.  Stacey. 


WANDERING  JEW,  THE  

Illustrations  by  C.  J.  Staniland,   R.I.,  and  from  Photographs. 

WE.ST  AFRICAN  MUTINY,  A  

Illustrations  by  R.  B.  M.   Paxtoii  and  from  Photographs. 

\vn.\T  H.U'PENED  AT  MORELIA 

Illustrations  by  Warwick  Goble. 

WHEN  THE  WATER  CAME  DOWN  

Illustrations  by  R.  B.  M.  Paxton  and  from  Photographs. 

WIL.SON  LIFE  INSURANCE  FRAUD,  THE         

Illustrations  by  Norman  H.   Hardy. 

WOLVES  IN  THE  DESERT,  ATTACKED  BY      ... 
Illustrations  by  R.  B.  M.  Paxtoi). 


A.   E.  Johnson.     598 
John  D.   Lci'kie.     226 


Mrs.    Chas.  Herbert.  349 

...    l-'rancis    ]V.    //.    Durrant.  82 

Ah'ah  Jackson  Stone.  613 

Captain   A'.    I'enonr  Davidson.  396 

Dorothy  Ton  Heisinan.  67 

J.   K.   M.  Shirazi.  244 


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