The new rhubarb culture; a complete guide to dark forcing and field culture, how to prepare and use rhubarb

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Copyright N°

COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT:

The

New Rhubarb Culture

A Complete Guide to DARK
FORCING and FIELD
CULTURE

HOW. me PREPARE
and USE RHUBARB

Fully Illustrated

. With original photographs taken expressly for this work

By J. E. MORSE

Author of Garden Specials, Wheat Specials, etc. Winner of
Grand Prize in the National Garden Contest

PART TT
ADDITIONAL CHAPTERS ON OTHER METHODS
> By G BURNAP FISKE °

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NEW YORK
ORANGE JUDD COMPANY
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COPY 8.

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COPYRIGHTED 1901

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All Rights Reserved.

CONTENTS.

faprenuction and Note; . ). 6. suc. dba ga dee eee ws By the Author

CHAPTER I.
RHUBARB—ITS CULTIVATION AND HOME. Page
A fragment of history—Its native home—Its acclimation—Not a
ANEMONE SOE are ASE aid wre els © Aiwtelgrnis, Se viucmscotins acto 1

CHAPTER II.
THE FORCING PLACE.

The commercial cellar—The house cellar—Cellars with hard
-floors—Growing in hotbeds—Growing in the greenhouse—
A cheap forcing cellar—Nooks and corners,.............. 5

CHAPTER III.
WORK OF FORCING.

Starting the work— Forcing season—Two crops in one season—
Setting the plants—Handling the roots—Age of roots for
PUCIOO—ESOSE, VALICLIEB. cc spo cy scold cee is os oS e.ein tb owe do's oh e's 16

CHAPTER IV.
HOW TO SUCCEED.
Heating—As to temperature—V entilation—Light—Moisture—
Pee TM TRV OTE os acs oss « 6 cnn Ries 2:0) a ohe a isgel n= Wine ne 23

CHAPTER V.
HANDLING THE CROP.
Time of maturing—Gathering the crop—Tying up—Marketing, 29

CHAPTER VI.
FERTILIZERS.
Light or thin soils—Barnyard manure—Binders—Acidity of
soil—Nitrate of soda—Jadoo fibre, ..............--.ee0ee 35

lv THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE.

CHAPTER VII.

CULTURE. Page
Soil—Preparation—Propagation—Unforced roots—Forced roots
—Plants for setting—Growing from the seed—Tillage,.... 39

CHAPTER. Vili
COMPARISON OF OLD AND NEW METHODS.
Criticisms answered — The old method—The new method—
Quahty—Adaptability; ic -07o aes ote coe eee ee 43

CHAPTER IX.
FUTURE OUTLOOK.
Magnitude of forcing industry—Creating demand—Benefits, .. 47

CHAPTER, x.
Extracts from Bulletin, No. 55, June, 1899, Rhode Island
Experiment Station. By Fred W. Card, M.S.,.......... 50

CHAPTER XI.
HOW TO USE RHUBARB.
For dessert—To cook for sauce—To preserve for winter use,.. 59

PART. FE

CHAPTER I.
VARIOUS FORCING METHODS.
Sash houses and cold frames—Hot water system—Steam forcing
in open fields—Exhibition stalks—Home methods,.... ... 73

CHAPTER II.
EXPERIENCE IN FIELD CULTURE.
Methods of Long Island growers—Maryland—The Boston dis-
trict—Ilinois—The Northwest—The Pacific coast, ....... 90

CHAPTER: If.
VARIETIES AND STATION TESTS.
The leading sorts described—Range of adaptation—Northern
limits—New seedlings—Work of the experiment stations,. 105

CHAPTER IV.
HINTS AND HELPS.
For early market—Insects and blights—Culture of medicinal
rhubarb—Pie plant for home use—Seed raising—Food value ~
—Fertilizing constituents—Irrigation—Field jottings,..... 115

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

PARTE]

Page
eT ISEENIIO Ce cates 5 oss yo =,du'as har Sas < Se eee oe oe 4
DES TY [SES a ATs 55 HS Ae ga es A a 6
Grown in Hotbed for the Christmas Market, ............... 10
rim Tab PhOUse Welan i leo. kbs ects 2 2S t's 5 2S oa wae a 12
Sowa Oni hubard BOOS; 2.2... ed eo wide ee ples 14
Rupbarp Roots Ready for the Cellar,...:..........-....--.. 18
ee EAI OE EERE eas hse ie a's 2s a ohne ee se 28
On the Display Stand in a Detroit Commission House, ...... 31
Peas TALC Ol SOUR. sheet! Fas fic. Foon ae Ree eke 35
Mamiamiced im knitbare (GOnure. <2. ot 6 ods wl aw oc ws cae soe 42
Peodues of Frozen and Untrozen Koots,.....25...0.-.+..--. 51
Leaf Development—In Light and in Darkness, ............. 57

PART II

Dre AREA SAREE ETOUNSE 5.2.2 sien d ck aS) Sock pos Sa ie oe ie WS 0 74
Purriermorewie Honser 4 Neti. 2.8. seg oS Na Warts Fs ees > és 75
Hot Water Forcing House (Interior View),................. fi!
W. W. Rawson’s Cold Frames for Rhubarb,................ 79
DAUD GS EVA GSS (1) i ee eee 80
SLT DPSS iS. OSE PE a Sa ee ge 80
SieameNorcime mm the Open Wield’ 5. icace. ei i oe Saas oe 84
Bageine witht Pagid Manurey org apres a eres nas afelarne'e «5 87
umbarpobicia anc amiated). Vs Mig 64sec oy a aa ae se 2 diene ke 90
Rhubarb Ready for New York Market,...................5. 96
are erin, PGI TES, «ooo atin oe fs ak Soe 2 ode boars take we 97
Method of Ridging in Fall and Spring, ..................... 99
Saale athe MeaaE WW TIPET os cree sche Dip aps as Gwe oh a a ag Zens 100
Pra arate ADEE AR nS i) 2 inliae nS cit chials © # nies Jp oye,i6 eo ble ee «2a ve 104
fe ARIE AGLI ef hee Pan) a 0, Slee Salil oa wees waht whos 104
Bunch of Victoria heady for Market, .....-..........6....% 105

Ree LE MIGRIOUIY CU eae con eases aes ew Ripe as 106

vi THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE.

Page
Hill of St ‘Martin’s:: 0. (2208 eke nae ee ee 107
Monarch Ri Wbarbs ed ace cc 2s iene se rad aan a erate eee ee 107
Packing Shed for, Rhubarby 22 222m. c eee Wee ee antes 116
Interior Plan of Packing She... o. 6-26. Gsesse cs sae olae eae Os 117
The Rhubarb ‘Curcullo; . 5.5. asec acetate ee ne eee 119
Stalk Injured by \Curculio,”.¢ o..3 aco eee eee 120
Plant of the ‘Medicinal Rhubarb, osc. 2 ee. -4- st aie teins 121

Seedling and Root Cutting «a. cas ager ee ya eee 126

INTRODUCTION.

WITHIN a comparatively short time, the forcing of
various garden vegetables has assumed such vast pro-
portions, that now the products of the forcing house
are exposed in all the city markets throughout the en-
tire year, and many relishes in the way of radishes, let-
tuce, cucumbers, etc., that but a short time ago could
only be obtained for a few weeks in their special season,
are now the daily embellishments of the table. But the
end is not yet; the forcing industry is only in its
infancy, and will at no distant day revolutionize the
whole gardening system.

The expensive methods of glass and greenhouse cul-
ture have heretofore made it possible for only the few
to engage in the work, and the consequent high prices
of the products thus grown have made it impossible
for any but the more favored ones to enjoy the luxuries
thus produced.

Experiments in the dark cellar are demonstrating
that many vegetables may be there grown in their highest
perfection, and erelong its inexpensive methods will to
a large extent supersede the costly glass.

It is not the purpose of the following pages to in-
duce farmers and gardeners to rush wildly into an enter-
prise as yet little known; but the rather to open up a way
and a highway whereon many are reaching success and
spanning the long gap of the profitless Winter months.

Vill THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE.

with a snug cash balance for the profit side of the
ledger.

If it shall prove thus, and not only the tillers of the
soil, but many a toiler in the humbler vocations of life
shall find a grain from which to forge a “golden link
in the iron chain of toil,’ The New Rhubarb Cuiture
will more than realize the highest ambitions of

THE AUTHOR.

NOTE.

A BRIEF note regarding the method of dark forcing
rhubarb, published in the Rural New Yorker for 1898,
excited much interest and became the subject of many
inquiries. In order to more clearly answer the ques-
tions thus raised a brief outline of the methods was later
on published in the same paper.

This gave occasion for some writers with very little
knowledge of the matter and a few borrowed ideas to
tell what they evidently did not know about the subject.
Whole paragraphs of the outline were woven into the
articles without even the courtesy of quotation marks.
A longer acquaintance with the work and some practical
experience would cause them to disown the children of
their earlier years and wonder why they had fathered
them at first.

While fully agreeing with my illustrious ancestor,
Solomon, that “There is nothing new under the Sun,”
the fact still remains that the woods are full of new
methods and their results, developed it may be from
old ideas. The ideas of the dark forcing method are
doubtless not entirely new.

To say that I am the author and finisher of the
method would be misleading.

But in so far as searching through the highways
and byways for the fragmentary experiences and efforts
of many growers, and in so far as gathering up these
fragments and combining them with several years of

xX THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE.

personal and practical experience and presenting them
in the form now offered, the work is essentially my own.

To make this book still more encyclopedic, and to
completely cover the whole subject of rhubarb culture,
by the older methods also, Mr. Fiske has carefully com-
piled a comprehensive statement of such experiences,
which forms Part II. of this work. Obviously, however,
IT am not responsible for Part II.

J. E. MORSE.
April, 1901.

PART 1.

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CHAPTER I.
RHUBARB — ITS CULTIVATION AND HOME.

A Fragment of History.—The cultivation of rhubarb,
like some well established laws, extends back to the time
when the memory of man runneth not to the contrary.

The value of the root as a drug has long been known,
so long, in fact, that the discoverer of its medicinal
qualities will never be known, and his name must lie
hidden in the misty shadows of the past. Its record,
however, is almost contemporaneous with the earliest
written history as it is described in the Chinese herbal
Pen-King supposedly dating back to nearly 3000 B. C.

For ages its cultivation was confined to its native
home, China, but in a prepared form finding its way to
various parts of the world. The cultivation extended
into India to some extent and India rhubarb finally
became an established article of commerce.

It remained for Russia, upon the establishment of
trade relations with China, to get control of the trade,
and to so supervise and improve the methods of prep-
aration that Russian rhubarb became famous the world
over and its price per pound was nearly three times that
of opium.

The cultivation was finally begun in Siberia and
along the Volga from whence it was introduced into
England in 1573 and later into France. No attention,
however, was paid to the leaf stalks, which presumably
were inferior in-size and quality to the product of to-

2 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE.

day ; but the use of the leaves as a pot herb is mentioned
in Queen Elizabeth’s time.

The rhubarb cultivated as a vegetable is derived from
Rheum, of which there are many species and widely dis-
tributed as to nativity. Nearly two*hundred years ago
a variety, probably Rheum Rhaponticum, was produced
in Russia, which developed far larger and finer leaf
stalks and was known as Crown rhubarb.

The varieties now in use are hybrids between Rheum
Rhaponticum, Rheum Undulatum, and Rheum Palma-
tum, and in England were brought to a high state of per-
fection in the early part of the present century.

The old sorts in much favor were Tobolsk and
Erford. Later on came Mitchell’s Royal Albert and
Dancer’s Early Scarlet.

The principal varieties under present cultivation in
this country are Myatt’s Victoria, Myatt’s Linneus, and
the Mammoth with some other varieties, probably seed-
lings and bearing locat names.

About forty years ago strenuous efforts were made
in this country, and especially in Michigan, to cultivate
it as a wine plant. However, the inferior quality of the
wine together with its supposedly injurious effects, high
war taxes, and other contingencies, combined to bring
it into disfavor and the project was abandoned.

As a vegetable its cultivation is extending both in
this country and portions, at least, of Hurope.

Its Native Home.—As seen from the foregoing, the
cultivation of rhubarb as a drug is of great antiquity and
as to locality, widely disseminated. It will also be seen
that as a vegetable, the varieties now in use are descend-
ants of a variety originating in a far northern clime.

Its Acclimation.—The parent, having its birthplace
in the rugged frosts and snows of Siberia, will its chil-

ITS CULTIVATION AND HOME. 3

dren thrive in the warmer latitudes of our own country?
Let us see; its native home was doubtless in the region
of latitude 50. Near the close of the eighteenth cen-
tury it was introduced into England, doubtless through
the seed; and notwithstanding the abrupt climatic
changes it had come to great perfection in the early part
of the present century. This was accomplished through
growing from the seed and hybridization. The mild
and humid climate of England produces it in great per-
fection. The more vigorous climate of our northern
latitudes produces it in abundance and instances of
luxurious growth in the higher altitudes as far south
as North Carolina are recorded. It may seem safe to
say that through careful seed selection and hybridizing
it may be successfully grown in nearly every section of
the United States.

- Not a Vital Question.—While the subject of acclima-
tion is of great importance and well worth careful and
continued experiment, it is not a question of life or
death to the industry. The industry will grow; and
if climatic conditions bar its production out of some
localities or even countries, the product, when once in-
troduced there, will be consumed and the market, at
least, will not be barred.

THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE,

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CHAPTER Tk
THE FORCING PLACE.

In order to so present the method of forcing rhubarb
that not only the farmer and gardener who may desire
to grow for market purposes, but the owner of a village
or city lot may provide a home supply of this whole-
some luxury from January to April, various plans for
the forcing place are suggested.

The Commercial Cellar—The illustration “Ready
For Forcing,” shows a view of a cheaply constructed
cellar, much in favor with growers for the wholesale
market. The size is 12 x 50 feet, holding between 500
and 600 plants set in beds five feet wide, on either side
of a two foot passageway, running the entire length
of the building.

In constructing a cellar of this kind the ground is
excavated two feet in depth, and posts set two feet deep
and six feet apart are rough boarded for the walls. The
plates, 2 x 6 inches are spiked on top of posts; the
rafters, same size, being set at a pitch sufficient to shed
water, and give height to the cellar, which is seven
feet in the center and three feet at the sides.*

The roof is of boards either lapped or laid double and
covered (during the forcing season) with manure to
a depth of eight inches.

The entrance is at one end of the cellar through a
door leading into an entryway 6 x 12 feet, for the storage

* This cellar was built entirely of old lumber. and the cost was merely

nominal. In using new material a saving might be made by using lighter
stuff say, 2x 4in. for plates and rafters.

6

THE

NEW RHUBARB CULTURE.

READY TO MARKET.

THE FORCING PLACE. (4

of fuel, etc. An inner door entirely excluding light
and frost leads into the forcing room.

Heat is furnished by a small box stove set about 15
feet from the entrance. The pipe is carried to a flue
at the rear end of the building. To insure as even dis-
tribution of heat as possible as well as to economize in
fuel the pipe should be placed much lower than shown
in the illustration.

The view shows the cellar filled with roots and heat
just started. On Dec. 14, when the flash light was taken,
the stalks were just appearing above ground. 'T'wenty-
seven days later (Jan. 10) 18 doz. were picked and sold
at 70 cents per doz. or $12.60 for the first picking.

“Ready To Market,” is a view of the same cellar
just before the second picking (Jan. 17) when twice the
amount of the first picking was ready for market.

Several subsequent pickings were made, after which
the roots were removed from the cellar and a second
crop was grown in the same manner as the first.

This small cellar 12 x 50 feet yielded something
over $160 worth of rhubarb from the two crops grown
in one Winter.

The House Cellar—Many growers having roomy
house cellars utilize them for the work, in addition to
the regular forcing cellar described above. To this
practice no objection can be offered by the most fas-
tidious, as very little artificial moisture is required and
consequently no dampness or objectionable odors are
given off, unless the roots are neglected and left to
decay after they have ceased bearing.

In this way the cellar may be utilized at a handsome
profit during the Winter months; and the convenience
in caring for, and harvesting the crop is no small item
to carry to the profit side of the ledger.

8 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE.

An incident in point, the cellar of a near-by neighbor
which the writer visited, gave a return of $144 during
the Winter. The space occupied was 36 x 54 feet and
the only heat used was two large lamps.

On a bleak Winter’s day with the mercury 10 or
15 degrees below zero, the good housewife will appreciate
going from the busy kitchen right down into a forest of
the beautifully colored rhubarb growing at her feet,
ready to pull and prepare for the table; and should she
tarry a bit to feast her eyes on the novel sight so rarely
dupheated in Nature who shall chide her, even though
the dinner be somewhat late in consequence ?

Cellars with hard floors.—Do not fear to use cellars
with brick, cement, or other hard floor. During forcing
the roots make little or no growth and two or three
inches of loose earth covered over the floor will be
sufficient.

Growing in Hotbeds—A method which gives the
earhest and best paying crop of all, is to set the roots
in hotbeds, removing, of course, the old manure and
soil to sufficient depth to admit the full growth of the
stalks. There is no extra expense, as the hotbeds are
already on hand, and later on are used for starting the
cabbage, tomato, egg and other plants. The boxes are
covered with two layers of boards, breaking joints, to
avoid as far as possible the leaching of snow or rain.
Manure to the thickness of a foot or 18 inches is placed
around the boxes, and covered on top to the depth of
six inches. No heat other than that generated by the
manure is used; should a higher temperature be requir-
ed, fresh manure that has been piled until heated, is
put on, and the forcing is thus hurried at will.

December 21, I visited the grounds of one of the
pioneer growers of this section, and the first, I think,

THE FORCING PLACE. 9

to adopt the dark-growing method. He had his house
cellar and two large forcing cellars filled; but as yet used
no heat. A row of ten hotbeds were being filled, which
were to be held in check until the last of February, when
the manure would be applied, and forcing begun. Be-
sides this, he had 12 boxes covered in one unbroken
mound, six of which were for immediate use, and six
to follow in succession. I walked over the mound, and
there beneath my feet, shut away from the light and
air, and forced entirely by the heat of the manure, the
rhubarb was growing and ready for the market. Decem-
ber 20, from three of these boxes 6 x 14 feet in size, he
picked 31 dozen, which brought, in the wholesale house,
75 cents per dozen, or $23.25 for one picking. These
boxes were of the Linneus variety, and would give two
more pickings; the second picking was expected to be
best of all.

This grower is a gardener of over 40 years’ experi-
ence, and says that this is the best paying crop he can
raise, for the reason that the greater part of the labor
is done after the other crops are secured, and the sales
come at a time when so little else can be grown except
by the expensive methods of growing under glass.

Growing in the Greenhouse-—The space under
greenhouse benches may be used, by closely boarding
the sides and ends to exclude the light. This plan
has been adopted by greenhouse men to some extent;
but while seemingly economical in the matter of heat
is open to some objections. The expense of boarding
up in such a manner that one side at least, is easily
accessible, for placing in the roots and removing the
crop will be no small item. Experiments clearly prove
that the close warm quarters beneath the benches will
give too high a temperature and the product will be

10

THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE.

By
FS
&
i

IN HOTBED FOR THE CHRISTMAS MARKET

GROWN

THE FORCING PLACE. mM

inferior in color, quality and yield, to that grown out in
the more open space. ‘Too close proximity to the pipes
gives too high a temperature which is the chief source
of the trouble; and this can hardly be remedied without
detriment to the crops growing on top of the benches.
The strong heat shortens the bearing season of the rhu-
barb and will also leave the roots much impaired, if
not wholly unfit for future use in propagating. How-
ever a quick growth and fair yield may be obtained
and if no better place is at hand it will pay to use such
spaces.

A Cheap Forcing Cellar——With none of the above
described places available a very cheap and serviceable
cellar may be made by excavating for say, two feet and
any size desired. ‘The more convenient shape for cover-
ing and for convenience in work will be in proportions
of one to three, or four. Build the sides above ground
with poles, (any size convenient) to the required height,
and for the pitch of roof cut the end poles shorter each
time, and draw in the side poles sufficiently to make the
lap at the corners. Shorten the poles according to their
size, and the desired height of the building, large poles
would need to be shorter than small ones, in order to
avoid unnecessary height. It is better to lay up the
sides and ends whole and saw out the doorway after-
ward, use 2 x 6 in. plank for the door frame spiking
through into the end of each pole. Cover over with corn
stalks, straw or other coarse litter, finishing with earth
to a depth sufficient to insure against any possibility
of freezing. A flue of sewer crock is easily constructed
if one wished to heat with wood or coal, but an oil
or gasoline stove or large lamp placed low down will
do nicely for heating, if the cellar is not too large. Such

12

THE

NEW

RHUBARB

CULTURE.

A BED IN THE HOUSE CELLAR.

THE FORCING PLACE. is

a building will last for years and is very useful for
other purposes outside the forcing season.

Nooks and Corners.—The foregoing is, of course,
descriptive of the methods of the wholesale growers ;
the following suggestions are made with a view to reach
every home. As remarked in the introduction, the fore-
ing of vegetables is assuming vast proportions; but with
all the progress thus far made no vegetable, rhubarb ex-
cepted, that can in any sense take the place of fruit has
been utilized. The work is so simple and inexpensive
that any family possessing a few rhubarb roots may
now enjoy the luxury the entire Winter through.

A little thought will suggest a corner in the cellar,
or lacking this, a storeroom or attic where a few roots
may be set in a large box and protected from the light
and cold, and give a supply of this most wholesome and
delicious vegetable.

For the sole purpose of demonstrating how easily
and cheaply the work may be done, a small bed was pre-
pared in the house cellar. Only ten roots. were used ;
being placed at the end of the cellar close beside a
potato bin.

The illustration shows the bed in full bearing, with
lamp and lantern for heating. The bed was shut off
from the rest of the cellar by simply tacking an old
hemp carpet to the floor and sleepers above, letting it
fall to the cellar bottom. The wall formed one side of
the enclosure and the carpet was so nailed to the floor
above as to form the other side and ends. The heating
cost less than two cents per day, and was only used at in-
tervals. The bed was for family use. The bearing
season was prolonged at will by using the heat only oc-
casionally. The yield was something over 10 dozen
bunches, worth at going prices about $5.10.

THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE.

14

‘SLOOY AUVAAHY LAG ONIMOTG

THE FORCING PLACE. 15

Note on Growing in Hotbeds.—The work of growing
in hotbeds has one decided advantage which may not
appear at first sight.

In the instance referred to under “Growing in Hot-
beds” the roots were placed in, during the month of
November, before any freezing had occurred. By this
plan a crop may be forced before it could by any pos-
sibility be secured in any of the ordinary cellars describ-
ed. It will be observed, however, that this plan of forc-
ing entirely ignores one very essential feature of the
general method viz., that of freezing the roots: but
while entirely practical under certain conditions, it can-
not be applied in general work and must not be at-
tempted. It will not be successful in any ordinary cellar
or in fact any place where very strong heat cannot be
concentrated and brought low down to the roots.

~ With the hotbed boxes on hand, and an abundance
of fresh manure to generate the heat and reinforce it
as necessary, the forcing may be safely done and give
an early crop and fancy prices that cannot be obtained
if necessitated to wait for the roots to freeze. But the
method is especially valuable in establishing the fact
that the work may be successfully done in latitudes
beyond the limit where freezing may be relied upon.

This plan of forcing is very exhausting, and the
roots thus forced will be entirely worthless for purposes
of propagation.

CHAPTER iL.
WORK OF FORCING.

Starting the Work.—As ever increasing competition
must be met by cheapened production, the prime object
in every enterprise must be to minimize the labor.

As the forcing season approaches, with the cellar
all in readiness, we should give attention to the prep-
aration of tools for the work. While but few are re-
quired they should be of the best, and will consist of a
good plow with well sharpened coulter and sharp clean-
cutting spades or shovels. The plans for heating should
also be carefully perfected. With these essentials duly
provided for we are now ready for the work of the

Forcing Season.—This will depend on location, and
weather conditions. Extended experiments have dem-
onstrated beyond a doubt that by far the best results are
obtained by thoroughly freezing the roots. While this
general rule is laid down as positive and not to be
deviated from, there are exceptions which were treated
of under another heading, “Forcing in Hotbeds.” This
being the case it is better to leave the roots in the ground
until there is prospect of sufficient cold weather to
freeze the roots clear through. They will however take
no injury if left exposed to any sort of weather for a
reasonable time. In loose sandy soil which does not
readily adhere, but crumbles off leaving the roots bare,
it is better to turn them out when the ground is thor-
oughly soaked, or just before a hard freeze.

Two Crops in One Season.—With a plentiful supply
of roots and inadequate room for forcing, two crops may

WORK OF FORCING. ALF

be grown in succession. In this case as soon as the first
roots cease bearing they should be removed from the
cellar and protected from severe freezing and thawing;
this can best be done by piling them in a shed, or giving
them a light covering of straw or coarse litter. In the
Spring they may be used for propagating which will
be treated of in another chapter. The roots for second
crop may then be placed in the cellar and forcing con-
tinued.

Preparing the Roots—In extensive operations it is
economy to turn the roots out with the plow.

The illustration “Plowing Out Rhubarb Roots,” was
taken on the grounds of an extensive grower and shows
the work of preparing the roots for the cellar, in actual
operation.

With a spade, a line or mark is made along the row,
but’ four to six inches distant from it, as a guide to the
plow. Set the plow as deeply as possible, turning the
furrow away from the row; a second furrow is plowed
on the opposite side of the row same distance from it
as before, turning the roots over into the first furrow
plowed. If the coulter is sharp and clean-cutting as it
should be, this will cut off all the lateral prongs on two
sides. Now with the spade turn the roots out so
they shall not be buried in the loose soil of the furrow,
trim off remaining prongs on the other sides, and leave
them until ready to put into the cellar. In very dry or
loose sandy soil the earth is liable to nearly all fall off the
roots when turning them out; in this case simply turn
the furrows away from both sides of the row of roots and
leave the turning out and trimming up until the clumps
are frozen. They can then be trimmed up and properly
shaped with the loss of but very little soil.

« The illustration “Rhubarb Roots Ready for the

THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE.

18

“HVITED AHL YOd ACVAY SLOOY AUVADHY

WORK OF FORCING. 19

Cellar” shows the roots turned out of the furrow upon
the snow-covered ground, and trimmed ready for forc-
ing.

In small areas, or where from any cause plowing out
would be impracticable the entire work may be neatly
and rapidly done with the spade.

Setting the Plants-—For the work of setting in the
roots, select if possible, a time when they are frozen
solid, as they will be cleaner to handle and may be rolled
or tumbled about hke rocks without fear of injury.
This is not material however, but greatly simplifies
the work.”

Cellars will of course, vary much in size and shape;
and setting in the clumps should be planned with regard
to the utmost convenience in caring for, and harvesting
the crop. If the cellar is long and narrow, one passage-
way through the center, extending the entire length of
the building will be sufficient, while a large square room
might require two or more parallel passageways, or one
extending through the center the longest way, with
lateral paths on either side placed at convenient dis-
tances for picking, in order to avoid trampling on the
young stalks. Remembering that each clump will occupy
about a square foot of space and that they are set as
closely together as possible, it will not be difficult to so
plan the position of passageways as to secure the desired
results.

As the plants are set in position, loose earth should
be at hand for filling underneath and between the
clumps ; enough may be used to entirely cover the crowns
of the roots, or they may be left exposed and only the

*NoTE.—Do not make the mistake of supposing that the roots must be
in a frozen condition when placed in the cellar, that is immaterial, pro-
vided the freezing has actually taken place previously. It is simply a

matter of convenience and economy to handle the roots in a frozen con-
dition.

20 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE.

crevices between the prongs of the roots and spaces
between clumps filled in. If the cellar bottom is of loose
earth, that may be used for the purpose, but 1f cement or
other hard floors are used, then the soil will have to be
carried in.

With the setting completed, the labor is practically
over, and very little care is necessary to mature the
crop.

Handling the Roots-—A very pleasing feature of the
work is in the fact that with the freezing part well over,
the crop may be matured almost at will. The forcing
may begin at once or the roots may be held in a dormant
state for weeks, which matter will of course be governed
entirely by the temperature. If, as previously men-
tioned, two crops are grown in the same cellar, the fore-
ing should begin as early as possible. The roots for the
second crop may be left in the ground until required for
use. However, in latitudes where long continued and
severe freezing is the rule, the safe plan is to dig all the
roots at one time, piling those required for the second
crop in a shed, or otherwise slightly protecting them.
In localities less rigorous, where the open state of the
ground would most likely admit of digging in mid-
winter the roots for second crop may be left in the field
until wanted.

Whether one, or two crops are grown, one fact should
be borne in mind if one desires to utilize the forced roots
for propagating, the forcing process is very exhausting to
the roots and should be discontinued as soon as lack of
vigor in the growth of the stalks is noticeable; the
growth can be stopped only by removal from the cellar or
lowering the temperature to say 30 or 35 degrees.
Rhubarb is of the get-there nature, and will grow
itself to death if allowed, especially in the cellar; as a

WORK OF FORCING. OA.

plentiful supply of the roots is the principal factor in
extensive growing, it pavs to husband them very care-
fully.

Age of Roots for Forcing.— For profitable results,
roots must be thrifty and strong (the larger the better),
and not less than two or three years old.

Propagated roots, if well grown will be at their best
from two to five years old; while those grown from seed
need an additional year’s growth. For reasons else-
where mentioned too old roots are undesirable but of
course may be used if no better can be obtained.

With large growers the root supply especially for
the second season’s work often becomes a serious prob-
lem; after that if rightly managed the trouble will be
avoided.

It is not wise to force all the roots in sight the first
year, lest the second year’s work becomes a minus
quantity.

To those engaging in the work, we say, plan for the
future. Husband carefully and feed generously what-
ever roots you may have, look about among your neigh-
bors and procure of them as many as they may be able
to spare. The “Tug of War” is for the first and second
year’s supply, but with reasonable forethought the prob-
lem will work out in the years following.

Best Varieties—Karly Strawberry, Linneus and
Victoria are standard varieties, and will, I think. sueceed
wherever rhubarb will grow. The Victoria is considered
best for forcing, but has the peculiarity of maturing
its crop all at once. Whether this feature is advan-
tageous or otherwise will depend on circumstances, and
must be determined by the grower. It is however a
great yielder and much sought after in the market. AlI
varieties are good and succeed well under both open and

22 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE.

forced culture. Early Strawberry and Linneus are
earlier than Victoria, which is an advantage, and pro-
long their season of bearing, a very desirable considera-
tion if one is growing for home use only. The “Mam-
moth” while attaining great size, and second to no other
known variety in flavor is green in color, and for that
reason is undesirable for market purposes.

CHAPTER IV.
HOW TO SUCCEED.

It is always well to remember that the small or
medium crop is seldom or never the paying one. Grow-
ing two blades of grass where one has formerly grown
must henceforth be the aim of the successful tiller
of the soil. The up-to-date man courts neither failure
nor even partial success, but success in its highest sense.
To attain this goal careful attention to details is the only
highway. A word of caution seems necessary here.
While the work is exceedingly simple, study carefully
the methods and keep well within the lines laid down.
They have brought success, and experiments even though
seemingly trifling, may prove costly.

Since introducing this method somewhat to the pub-
lie, many reports of success have been returned to me.
Failures too, and with the assurance that every detail
had been carefully followed. Careful inquiry in every
case however revealed some vital point overlooked or
neglected (as failure to apply heat or some other equally
glaring omission). When these were rectified, success
was at once assured. The mainspring of success 1s
conditions just right. Be satisfied with nothing less.
One essential point which involves not only the safety
but success of the crop is the arrangements for,

Heating.—Not only ample, but economical heat
evenly distributed must be provided, and the expense of
heating even in large cellars is comparatively small, if
ordinary care is exercised in its application. Place your
stoves and pipe, or whatever apparatus is used, low
down. There will be no trouble in the heat ascending;

24 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE.

but the plants, and not the roof or rafters, are what re-
quire the heat. Plan then to apply the heat low down.

Heating Apparatus.—In Chapter I., the illustration
showing a cellar with heat just started, shows plainly
the method used there. In large cellars, two stoves
placed at given distances from either end will give
better results. In the house cellar 36 x 54 feet in size,
described in the same chapter, no other heat than two
large kerosene lamps was used. In my own house cellar
20 x 28 feet, I have been entirely successful with a two
burner gasoline stove. Over one burner was placed an
adjustable oven, to somewhat assist in radiation; and
over the other burner a kettle of water. This arrange-
ment answered to conserve both heat and moisture so
that in a period of nearly three months, the plants were

ratered but once. It will often occur that a cellar other-
wise nicely adapted for the work is not provided with a
flue or smoke escape. In that case, use oil or gasoline
stoves or large oil lamps.

In this connection let me mention still another fact,
which will be of service. Jf, in preparing the cellar,
due caution is observed to provide absolutely against
frost, the cost of heating will amount to almost nothing.
In building cellars then, expressly for the purpose, cover
the sides above ground and the roof with manure, straw
and earth or anything else at hand so that the tempera-
ture inside shall not vary with the changes of weather,
and your heating problem is practically solved. House
cellars may be thoroughly banked, and root cellars al-
ready built may be recovered, and so managed as to gain
the desired results.

As to Temperature.—This matter may be entirely
governed by circumstances. Rhubarb so adjusts itself to
circumstances that changes of 30 to 50 degrees will not

HOW TO SUCCEED. 25

injure it. Should your fires go entirely out in the cold-
est of weather no harm wili be done provided the frost
does not get in. The temperature may vary from 45
degrees to 80 or 90 degrees according to circumstances.
The lower temperatures wili of course, give a slower
growth; with a darker color and perhaps a somewhat
heavier yield. The higher temperature will in propor-
tion give quicker returns and a lighter color. The ques-
tion of yield under higher or lower temperature is as
yet an open one, and not important as the variations
would be but shght under any circumstances.

‘This range of temperature is perfectly safe, and
broad enough that the crop can almost be held at will or
hastened through for quick returns, as is desired.

Ventilation.—Fortunately the subject of ventilation
requires little or no attention. But the fact must be
emphasized to avoid trouble and worry. The truth is,
that rhubarb forced in hotbeds banked in and covered
over with boards and manure will thrive and grow at a
surprising rate. In the cellars the change of air occa-
sioned by going out and in for attention to the crop is
entirely sufficient.

Light.—Daylight, even in small amounts, must be
excluded. Admitting it while going out and in for at-
tention to the crop will do no harm. The growing
stalks will turn eagerly toward even a small ray of light,
and if it is steadily admitted, will cause the stalks to dis-
color and grow crooked, and wherever the light rests
steadily the leaves will begin to grow, which by all means
must be avoided. Artificial ight unless too bright and
long continued is not injurious. The blue light as from
a gasoline stove does no harm; but in forcing even with
kerosene lamps, I have demonstrated that the stalks in
too close proximity to the lamps will be off in color, and

26 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE.

the leaves will open out to some extent and begin to
grow green. Smoking the chimneys to subdue the light
will entirely obviate the difficulty, and for small or even
quite large cellars they are entirely practical.

Moisture —The question of moisture will depend
largely on the condition of the roots when placed in the
cellar. If the clumps are well loaded with wet or moist
soil when planted in, they will go through nicely with
very little additional moisture. When the soil surround-
ing the roots is dry at the time of setting, water should
be freely used when first starting the heat. A kettle of
water kept on the stove is often all that is necessary
to carry a crop entirely through. Ordinarily the use of
water (preferably tepid), to some extent is advisable ;
but many fine crops are matured without additional
moisture except the use of a kettle as above mentioned.
The whole matter, however, is easily determined by ordi-
nary judgment. If needed, apply at any time except just
previous to picking, as watering then would make bad
work in gathering the crop.

Fertilizing.—The work of fertilizing is far more
easily done in the field; but in case roots are used that
have not been well cared for, then good results are ob-
tained by applying a fertilizer in the cellar.

The writer has had good results with “‘air-slacked”
lime applied to the clumps before growth began, at the
rate of a small tablespoonful to each plant. Also nitrate
of soda and water in the proportion of an ounce to the
gallon, sprinkled on, brings good results. Liquid cow
manure will also well repay the cost of application. Hx-
tensive growers have reported very gratifying results by
mixing cow and horse manure to the consistency of
batter and pouring over the entire surface of the plants
as soon as set. No doubt this will send the crop; but

HOW TO SUCCEED. D7

would, I think, be objectionable in the house cellar. It
is recommended however, for growers to try the various
suggestions, and results will determine the most advan-
tageous method to pursue.

Thinning Out.—It sometime occurs that numerous
small stalks spring up that will never grow to any size.
This may come from low vitality of the roots. In this
ease, thin out useless stalks and apply liquid cow manure
liberally. It is more often occasioned by insufficient, or
poorly distributed heat. Cases of this kind have been
called to my attention where hundreds of stalks not
larger than a small lead pencil were springing up, and
very few if any large stalks. Every detail of the work
had been carefully attended to except the matter of heat,
that had not been apphed. The difficulty was that the
cellar was naturally a little too warm for the roots to
he dormant, but was not warm enough to give any im-
petus to the growth. Directions were given to turn on
heat, and in three weeks a nice picking was ready for
the market. The small stalks should be thinned wher-
ever they appear as before stated.

Precautionary Measures ——To guard against insects
which more or less congregate in such places, and if not
injurious to the rhubarb nevertheless become a nuisance,
the cellars should be renovated both before and after the
forcing season. Fumigate with sulphur, keeping the
cellar tightly closed for at least twelve hours, after which
whitewash walls and ceiling with common whitewasl,
adding sulphate of copper (blue vitriol or blue stone)
in the proportion of one ounce to the gallon, or with
crude carbolic acid in same proportion. If the walls are
too roughly constructed to admit of whitewashing, spray
with Bordeaux mixture full strength, omitting the
arsenites, but adding the carbolic acid in same propor-
tions as above.

THE

NEW RHUBARB

CULTURE.

PREPARING FOR MARKET.

CHAPTER V.
HANDLING THE CROP.

Time of Matwring.—This of course will depend on
the temperature maintained, also on the variety. The
Victoria will require more time than the earlier sorts
previously mentioned. From three to eight weeks will
be required to mature the first picking, and the season
will continue from three to four weeks or even longer;
depending on the vigor of the roots and also the degree
of heat used.

Usually 12 to 14 inches high is good height for
picking; but even less height is often admissible ow-
ing to size and development. | Where the product is
sold by the pound regardless of height or size there Is
no objection to letting it remain until fully grown, un-
less a declining market should necessitate haste in gath-
ering. Here at Detroit essentially the birthplace and
home of the industry, all transactions are reckoned by
the dozen. When thus sold, self interest at least, would
dictate selling as rapidly as reasonable height was at-
tained, and thus husband the vitality of the roots for
the remainder of the crop. However it must not be left
too long under any circumstances, as the stalks grow
spongy after a time, and falling down, become worthless.
Experience will soon enable any one to properly judge
of these matters.

Gathering the Crop.—This may seem a trivial point;

30 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE.

but unless carefully done will result in much waste of
stalks already fit for the market, and damage to the
young and tender shoots as well. The clumps themselves
are liable also to injury from careless pulling or jerking.
The stalks are exceedingly tender and brittle, and the
attempt to pull them off will result in breaking them
off at half length, or just above the ground, which spoils
the looks of, and shortens the stalks by whatever length
remains on the clumps or crowns.

With the right hand carefully grasp the stalk well
down to the ground, allowing the index finger to lie
flat against the inner side of the stalk. Push the finger
downward between the stalk and clump to where they
unite, then pry and pull in the same motion, and the
stalk will come off two or three inches below the surface
of the ground.

Tying Up—tThe illustration “Preparing for Mar-
ket,” shows the work in operation, which may be done
by the children after a little showing. The work here
shown is with the out door grown; when after the bundle
is tied the leaves are nearly all removed with the knife.
The method for the dark forced is the same except, what
little leaf there is, should be left on, with its beautiful
lemon color adding much to the appearance of the bunch.
Gather up the stalks and remove to a convenient place
for the work. Remove the hulls as shown in illustration,
and if intended for local trade wash off the adhering
soil or filth. If for shipping do not wash, as the water
remaining on the stalk will be injurious; but use a
brush or small broom instead. In bunching, average up
the stalks as much as possible putting large and small
together. The stalks are tied around the butts with
ordinary bunching twine, three in a bunch, or sometimes
four, if too small. Twelve bunches are put into a bundle

HANDLING THE CROP.

ON THE DISPLAY STAND IN A DETROIT COMMISSION HOUSE.

32 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE.

and tied around both butts and tops. These bunches
are called dozens but really contain 36 stalks. The
bundles are put up in this way solely for convenience
in the retail trade, the grocers opening up the bundles
and selling out by the bunch.

Different markets, of course, will require different
packages; and the growers must be governed by the de-
mands of their respective markets. In putting up for
the market, imagine yourself the buyer and put up only
such as you would be willing to buy and pay for. Let
your trade mark be your customer’s guarantee for honest
goods, and the market will always seek you.

Marketing.—Many growers depend entirely on the
local markets, supplying hotels, restaurants, retail
grocers and private families. Others dispose of the
crop through the commission merchants, while still
others ship direct to dealers in distant cities.

For shipping, the bundles are wrapped in paper and
boxed, the boxes holding from four bunches upward,
according to size of orders.

As the rhubarb would be entirely ruined if frozen
during shipment, it is usually shipped by express, and
although rates are ruinously high, the product finds its
way to nearly all the principal cities of the United
States.

CHAPTER VI.
FERTILIZERS.

Tight or Thin Soils.—As elsewhere referred to, light
sandy or gravelly soils require special treatment, or if
naturally lacking in essential elements they must be sup-
plied.

To supply them in abundance and in the cheapest
possible manner, should be the study of every intelligent
tiller of the soil.

In the soils above mentioned one property very Hable
to be conspicuous on account of its absence is

Humus.—As ordinarily understood this is simply de-
cayed vegetable matter, and while indispensable to the
best results for all crops, is especially so for rhubarb.
Clover, (red or crimson) cow-peas and like crops, ac-
cording to localities where each, or any of them succeed,
will furnish this element in abundance. But the nature
of these crops implies the necessity of preparation and
rotation previous to growing the rhubarb crop.

Successful crops in any soil will necessitate these, or
kindred helps; but more especially in the hghter soils.

Barn-yard Manure.—Doubtless the best all round
fertilizer for all soils and conditions is the ever ready-
for-business barn-yard manure. It also has the advan-
tage that 1t may be apphed for plowing under when
fitting the ground for the immediate crop, or afterward
as a top dressing. But whatever the base for the humus,
or however applied, let it be without stint. If possible,
I would write the legend, “Feed Me,’ on every fence
corner surrounding the rhubarb field.

“

o4 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE.

Binders.—A serious lack in all the lighter soils is ad-
hesion; a something, so to speak, which will bind and
hold together the particles of soil, rendering them, as
a whole, less sensitive to the action of heat and drought.

The agencies best adapted to this work, some of
which, at least, if not all, are within the reach of every
one, are air-slacked lime, wood ashes, either leached or
unleached, swamp muck and marl. ‘These applied in
large amounts, preferably as a top dressing to be worked
into the soil will many times repay the cost and labor »
of applying. Any and all are valuable, and are of course
more easily and economically applied before the plants
are set out. Old fields will also be much renovated and
improved, by some of the above applications; lime espe-
cially.

Acidity of Soil—This subject is so generally over-
looked by farmers and gardeners that the opportunity of
drilling in a little deeper and driving it home a little
harder, should not be lost.

By eareful experiments and observation, I am led to
believe that many soils otherwise fertile and valuable, are
losing half their usefulness from no other cause than
their acidity; and when so easily remedied the wonder
is, that they are so sorely neglected. The trouble is
prevalent in almost every variety and condition of soil,
and its detection is so simple that we give it in brief
as also, the remedy. Procure from any druggist a piece
of blue litmus paper, taking care that it never comes in
contact with water or becomes damp previous to using.
Thoroughly moisten some of the soil to be tested and
with a knife or other thin blade make an incision, In-
sert the paper closing back the soil against it, and leave
for a few minutes, after which withdraw it and rinse in
clear water. The condition of the soil either acid or

35

FERTILIZERS.

No NITRATE.

RHUBARB.
650 LBs. NITRATE OF SODA IN 3 APPLICATIONS.

36 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE.

otherwise will be determined by the paper. If highly
discolored and of a dark purple hue, rest assured that
the soil requires hme and plenty of it. Less discolora-
tion will indicate less acidity, and consequently less lime.
From five hundred to two thousand pounds of air-slacked
lime per acre applied to the surface of, and thoroughly
worked into the soil will remedy the trouble, and in
many eases double the crop. The lime while not of it-
self essentially a fertilizer unlocks the plant food in the
soil and places it in condition to be assimilated by the
plant. Wood ashes either leached or unleached will
also remedy the difficulty, though not as quickly or
thoroughly as will the lime. The action of some other
fertilizers is also greatly increased by the previous use
of the lime, and notably

Nitrate of Soda.—By courtesy of Dr. John A. Myers
of New York, under whose supervision extensive ex-
periments with Nitrate of Soda have been made, we in-
sert an illustration showing its effects upon rhubarb.

Following are the remarks of Mr. R. M. Winans, who
made the fertilizer experiments.

“The succulent, watery stalks of the Rhubarb, or
Pie Plant, are most highly developed by large supphes of
nitrogenous manures. Heavy applications of Nitrate of
Soda early in the spring, before nitrification begins in
the soil and at the time that the Rhubarb most needs
a supply of nitrogen, will give the grower a very large
return for the money invested.

“There being no established field of Rhubarb at
hand, our experiment was necessarily confined to plants
or crowns set this spring. At the time of setting, an ap-
plication of Nitrate of Soda, at the rate of 150 pounds
per acre, was given to the crowns. Later, when growth
began, two applications were made, first, at the rate of

FERTILIZERS. Sch

200 pounds, and, second, at 300 pounds per acre. The
soda was scattered about the plants by hand and hoed
into the soil close to the roots. They thus received a
total application of 650 pounds per acre in three applica-
tions.

“With old established bearing plants larger quanti-
ties should be apphed at the first opening of Spring.

“The result of this experiment is best shown by the
accompanying photograph of one treated and one un-
treated plant standing side by side.”

Nitrogen is what the crop is hungry for in the early
Spring; and generally speaking there is perhaps, noth-
ing that will so nearly meet the requirements as the
application of nitrate of soda.

It is a well established fact that however much barn-
yard manure may have been apphed, the process of
nitrification takes place very slowly, until the ground is
thoroughly warmed by the action of the sun’s rays.

In growing the out door product for market, the
early crop is always the paying one and the more quickly
it can be grown the better will be the quality and the
less the competition from the small fruits that follow its
season so closely.

Jadoo Fibre—Too much emphasis cannot well be
laid on the promotion of root growth. Vitally impor-
tant to the successful culture of all plant and vegetable
life, it becomes doubly so to rhubarb. The forcing
process is at best very exhausting, and the roots came
out of the cellar with vitahty much impaired. Neces-
sarily then, they require special feeding and care to
overcome the strain and recover vigor and size for future
bearing as quickly as possible.

The same general principle apphes equally to propa-
gating from unforced roots and also growing from the

38 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE.

seed. In a comparatively wide range of experiments
with special fertilizers I have found nothing else so
fully meeting the requirements of a healthy well-
developed growth as “Jadoo.”

How to Use.—Before using, the fibre should be fined
by working through a sieve with mesh not exceeding an
inch. When transplanting place a handful of the fibre
underneath and around the roots, covering with soil
and firming afterward.

In sowing the sced, open the drill sufficiently to
sprinkle the fibre along the bottom. Sow on the seed,
covering all with soil.

In transplanting, use the fibre each time the plants
are reset, the same as with propagated roots.

Unfortunately no illustration is at hand from which
a comparison of treated and untreated plants may be
drawn. The simple test however, is within reach of
every grower by following directions given above, and
in “proving all things holding fast to that which is
good” the highest objects in life are attained.

CHAPTHR VIt-
CULTURE.

Soil—As the cultivation is the same for all methods
of growing, no distinctions will be made. The ideal
home or soil for rhubarb is a heavy sandy or clay loam,
naturally cool and moist, yet having good drainage.
As all do not possess these natural advantages it remains
for each one to “make circumstances” and so prepare
the soil whatever kind it may be that the highest pos-
sible results may be realized.

Preparation.—Heavy soils should be worked deeply,
subsoiling in clay if possible. Light sandy or gravelly
soil, less deeply, leaving the foundation more firm to
better hold the moisture. In any case, fertilize without
stint. Rhubarb is a gross feeder and there is little
danger of over feeding. The lighter soils at least, will
be much benefited by liberal applications of swamp
muck, lime and ashes either leached or unleached, all
tending to hold or bind the soil together, thus minimiz-
ing the tendency to burn or dry out. It will be useless
to hope for, or expect success in its highest sense at
least, on ground only moderately fertilized or half tilled.

Propagation.—To those engaging in the work, either
for the out door growing of the Summer crop or for
Winter forcing, the effort should be to get a stock of
thrifty, vigorous roots in the shortest possible time.
This result will be gained by propagation provided a
stock of old roots are at hand from which to propagate.

The work should be done with a sharp spade or long
heavy bladed knife. The clumps owing to size, are
divided into two, three or more sections, taking care

40 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE.

not to disturb the crowns or eyes, and making sure that
each section has one or more eyes. Trim up nicely, care-
fully removing all broken or mangled portions of the
roots, leaving of course, as much root as possible.

Unforced Roots—When propagating from roots that
have not been forced, the best results will be obtained by
digging out late in the Fall and removing to some shed,
or otherwise slightly protecting, and allow them to
freeze out through the Winter. The results of the freez-
ing will be more than satisfactory. However, they will
succeed nicely if left in the ground until time for trans-
planting which should be done as early in Spring as
weather and ground will permit.

Forced Roots ——As some controversy has arisen over
propagating from the forced roots, it is well to state that
when properly handled they are perfectly safe for propa-
gating, and valuable in keeping up the root supply, and
whatever professedly wise men may say of their use-
lessness, and “throwing them on the manure heap,”
should be passed by as idle talk. Simply, when forcing,
give the roots a chance for their lives, and when they
begin to decline, stop the growth by removing from the
cellar to a shed, or otherwise slightly protect them from
too severe changes, until time for transplanting.

Divide and otherwise treat them just the same as un-
forced roots and they will again be ready for forcing
in from two to three years. The Writer has seen as fine
roots as could be desired dug out the second year after
transplanting.

All propagated roots should be planted into perma-
nent rows four to five feet apart, and the ground between
the rows may be used for catch crops the first year.

Plants for setting—These may be obtained from
any of the reliable seed or nursery men; and will well

CULTURE. 41

repay the cost. Time is money, in getting established in
the work, and they will save from one to two years’ time
over plants from the seed.

Growing from the Seed.—VThis then is also recom-
mended in addition to the work of propagating. How-
ever, one point must not be lost sight of, rhubarb seed
with one exception, cannot be relied upon to reproduce
its own. Myatt’s Victoria is the exception and has be-
come so thoroughly established in its type that it nearly
always comes true to name. Hence to sow seed from any
and all varieties, at hand would be unsafe (except for
experimental purposes) and liable to result in serious
loss of time. Experiments however, are always in order
and many times very useful; as many valuable varieties
are thus discovered and added to the list of both fruit
and vegetables.

The seed is sown in hotbeds early in the Spring, in
drills four to six inches apart, or in the open ground as
early as weather will permit in rows 12 or 15 inches
apart. When the plants are well up and somewhat
established, thin to three or four inches in the row.
When six to eight weeks old transplant 12 to 15 inches
apart in the rows. If sown in the open ground, thin out
the rows to the proper distance using the plants thus
removed for other rows.

The work of transplanting will be greatly simplified
by opening the rows with the plow, turning a shallow
furrow for the plants, and deeper, according to size, for
propagating roots.

Thorough tillage must be kept up the entire season
through to give all the growth possible. The following
Spring, transplant into permanent rows four to five
feet apart. is

Tillage—Remember that the largest possible growth

THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE.

‘AUNLTIAO AUVAAHY NI Gas STOOL

CULTURE. 43

is the object sought ; it follows, then, that tillage must be
thorough and constant. It will be essentially the same
whether propagated, grown from plants or from seed.
The ground should be covered with a heavy coat of
manure in the Fall, and in the Spring it should be
cultivated in. As soon as the frost is out sufficiently,
fork the ground thoroughly along the rows and in the
hills, letting in the sunshine and giving the plants an
early start.

Note 1.—No stalks should be picked the first season ;
and none should ever be allowed to go to seed, as it is
very exhausting. After the first year the stalks can be
pulled for the market but should not be drawn upon too
heavily, especially if designed for forcing in the Winter.

During the bearing season, the cultivation of course
has to be discontinued, on account of interfering with
the crop. Hence then, the great importance of
thorough work while it can be done. As soon as the
bearing season is over cultivation should again begin,
especially if the roots are to be forced during the Winter.
The heavy draft upon the plants during the bearing
season together with the hot dry weather often prevalent
during the whole after season, all tend to weaken and
impair the vitality. Thorough cultivation at this time
is highly necessary to stimulate the roots and to destroy
the grass and weeds which would otherwise absorb the
moisture and plant food which the roots so much re-
quire, 7
If Winter forcing is to follow, a heavy application of
barnyard manure should be apphed along the rows. If
to remain standing for the following year, the manure
need not be apphed until later, say after the ground
freezes when it should be applied sufficiently heavy to
well cover the entire surface.

CHAP THR LE
COMPARISON OF OLD AND NEW METHODS.

Criticisms Answered.—A brief outline of the New
Culture published in the Rural New Yorker of 1898
furnished the text for criticisms by some of the Eastern
growers, especially in the vicinity of Boston where the
old glass method of field forcing is still in vogue.

Judgment was hastily passed, and the New Culture
was sent to the rear, as being too expensive for the shght
advance in price and the limited demand for the pro-
duct. Answering the criticisms in a later issue of the
same paper it was shown that the expense of the old
method for foreing upon the scale carried on in the
West would be beyond the reach of the ordinary gar-
dener. As to prices and demand, large quantities were
grown here at highly remunerative prices and sold in
nearly all the large Eastern cities, Boston included, with
express and commission men’s charges added.

~The Old Method.—As practiced in the Nast, the old
method consists simply of constructing a rough board
shed over the plants as they grow in the field. The
shed is three or four feet high on the front side and
one foot higher at the back to give the slope for the
glass. The ends are boarded up and the sash are put
on resting upon the rafters. No heat is used other
than the sunlight which the glass conserves. The fore-
ing usually begins the latter part of February or first of
March. The roots are not lifted but remain in the rows
four to five feet apart, and to force in quantities would
require glass by the acre. The same method was former-

COMPARISON OF OLD AND NEW METHODS. 45

ly practiced by Western growers, except that to econ-
omize in glass, the roots were dug out and placed in hot-
bed boxes. It is a back number here, however, for many
reasons.

First, the color and quality by the New Culture are
vastly superior to that grown under glass, second, the
old method can hasten the crop but a few days at best,
whereas tons of it can be grown in the cellars before
the glass out in the field could have the least possible
effect. Third, the dark forcing gives very little leaf,
never opening out on a large portion of the stalks.
Grown under glass, most of the strength is lost in the
leaf which grows rank and green.

By the new method, rhubarb, and a finer quality
than was ever grown in the field or under glass, may be
grown for home use or market from the middle of
December to April.

Growing in Greenhouse.—This method is essentially
the same in detail, though not in results, as the new
culture. The labor of lifting and setting the roots would
be the same. The season under either would be prac-
tically the same. At this point the methods part com-
pany and the results-of the new culture by practical
demonstrations are clearly shown to be far and away
ahead of the old, first as to,

Quality—No method of culture, either outdoor or
forced, where light is used has ever produced an article
equal to the dark forced. The color, quality, and absence
of leaf are all in favor of the new culture; and in so
far as tested for that particular point the yield is also
greater. And as to,

Adaptability — Greenhouse culture would of neces-
sity be limited to a very few growers, and they the lucky
possessors of a greenhouse.. In the New Culture, the

46 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE.

field is the world, applicable to all from the extensive
farmer down through the various grades to the owner
or renter of a city or village house and lot. The enter-
prise has come to stay, and the growers by this method
will be the harvesters, while the followers of the old
methods will, of necessity, be merely the gleaners.

CHAPTER Ix.
FUTURE OUTLOOK.

THe magnitude of the forcing industry, as elsewhere
referred to, has reached a limit heretofore unthought
of, but as we firmly believe, it is yet in its infancy. Yet
with all its magnitude the dwellers in the rural districts
are practically shut out of its benefits. True, the farm-
er on his periodical trips to the village or city market
can buy these products provided his entire load of
produce will sell for enough to buy these delicacies, suf-
ficient for a meal or two. It is refreshing and pleasant
to know that this one industry is brought right to the
farmer’s door, and by its cheapness and simplicity, one
product of the forcing industry, and that the most de-
licious yet produced may be enjoyed by every farmer
and his family as the fruit of his own labor. While this
is the fact nevertheless comparatively few will under-
take it for they will all begin “with one accord to make
excuses.”

While entirely practicable and feasible for nearly all
classes, and especially farmers and gardeners to supply
themselves with this luxury from January to May, it
would be entirely impracticable for all to engage in
the work as a business. Individual circumstances and
surroundings must be carefully studied, as access to
markets, facilities for maintaining the root supply and
many other features.

A headlong plunge into the work as “the horse
rusheth into the battle,’ would to many mean failure.
Here in Detroit, essentially its home and birthplace as

48 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE.

an established enterprise, thousands of dollars are paid
the gardeners every winter for the product. Tons are
consumed here and tons are shipped away, reaching
nearly all the principal cities of the United States. Yet
comparatively few of the farmers or gardeners are en-
gaged in the work. Scores and hundreds of the people
here never heard of the enterprise and themselves, prob-
ably, never tasted the product. Yet the enterprise is
erowing, and the work is extending, and erelong the
growing of the roots for forcing will be a business of
itself.

The Demand.—Within the recollection of many not
old enough to be very near relatives of Adam, tomato
growing has grown to marvelous proportions; but the
demand for tomatoes had to be created. The demand
will have to be made for winter rhubarb.

But this is only history repeated. Figuratively
speaking the luxuries of vesterday become the necessities
of to-day, and once having tested the qualities of this
new delicaey its merits will fully establish its necessity ;
and the men who grow it and help to build up that
demand, will get in on the first floor and make the
money.

The growers here are often unable to obtain what
roots they need for immediate use and are ready to pay a
fair price, $10 per 100, and do their own hauling for
thrifty forcing roots. They can be profitably grown at
that price, as the ground for the first year after trans-
planting can be advantageously used for catch crops
and the second year should yield sufficient rhubarb to
pay all expenses of caring for the crop.

Thus the outlook seems encouraging from any stand-
point. Competition, for the present at least, will be
chiefly confined to localities north of say 38 degrees, and

FUTURE OUTLOOK. 49

while localities south of that should become valuable
markets for the product, the production of the crop could
_ not be depended upon except through acclimating the
plants elsewhere referred to.

CHAPTER X.
Extracts from Bulletin No. 55, 1899..
Rhode Island Experiment Station.

In the Rural New Yorker for 1898, page 736, ap-
peared a brief note calling attention to the fact that
rhubarb may be forced in the dark in any ordinary frost-
proof cellar or out-building. Not knowing of the ex-
cellent articles which were to follow, the subject was
thought to offer an interesting field for further inquiry.
Some simple experiments were therefore begun, to test
the feasibility of thus growing it.

Plants from the college garden were thrown out of
the earth December 6th, before the ground had frozen.
Six of these were transferred to the greenhouse at once.
Three were placed on a bench next the eaves, which,
though not the lightest part of the house, gave them
practically full sunlight. The other three were placed
underneath a bench with sides and ends closely boarded,
to keep them in darkness. December 17th, after the
plants in the field had been thoroughly frozen, additional
ones were brought in and placed beside the first in the
two positions above mentioned.

On January 6th, it was noted that the plants brought
in at first, without freezing, although having been in
the house longer than the others, were far behind them
in. activity. Those on the benches, exposed to full hght,
had barely begun growth, one being almost dormant.
Of those brought in after freezing, the ones on the bench
were making considerable growth, there being many

"*SLOOY NAZOUAN() GNV NAZOU AO LONGOU

EXPERIMENTS IN

RHODE ISLAND

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52 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE.

stalks three to four inches long, with leaves unfolding.
In darkness, the plants brought in without freezing were
making a little growth, while those which had first been
frozen had sprung into rapid growth, there being many
excellent, vigorous stalks, some of them 12 to 20 inches
long. On these but very little leaf had developed, almost
the entire growth being made up of stalk. Some plants
had thrown up many small and weak shoots, while others
threw up fewer, but more vigorous and desirable ones.
The difference between the frozen and unfrozen plants
was surprising, the unfrozen ones having produced but
few stalks and only one to three inches long. Although
the house in which they were grown is run at a very low
temperature, for lettuce, this position underneath the
bench near the pipes was a close and warm one.

January 9th, five large plants and three small ones
were placed in the cellar of a dwelling house, in a corner
where lhght could be practically shut off. A furnace
stands in the cellar about 15 feet from where the plants
were placed. The cellar is a very large one and the
temperature in it probably ranges about the same as
that of an ordinary cellar without a furnace. At the
time the crop was being harvested it ran about 40 de-
grees, Fahrenheit. Water stands in parts of the cellar
and the ground upon which the plants were placed was
wet and muddy. At the same time large roots were
placed under the greenhouse bench beside those put in
early. All these roots had lain on top of the ground,
subjected to repeated freezing and thawing, rain and
snow, for more than a month. It seemed probable that
they would be much weakened thereby.

On January 10th, the best stalks from each lot placed
in the greenhouse December 8th, and 17th, were pulled
and photographed. The product from frozen plants

EXPERIMENTS IN RHODE ISLAND. 53

grown in darkness proved to be exceptionally fine, the
color at base being bright cherry and varying to hght
pink toward the tip, the extreme upper end approaching
straw color, the leaf being lemon yellow. The stalks
grown in daylight varied from sultan to maroon color,
with tinges of green on the flat side toward the leaf, the
leaf itself being dark new green. None of the product
from that brought in without freezing, and none from
the frozen plants grown in daylight, was suitable for
gathering at this date, but the best of it was taken for
comparison. Of that grown in darkness, from frozen
plants, only those stalks which had made as good growth
as they were likely to make were gathered, and but three
of these appear in the photograph. Some stalks were
longer than those shown.

On January 19th, the plants brought in on the 9th,
were observed to be starting into growth nicely, many
stalks being three to four inches long. The ones placed
in the dwelling-house cellar showed no activity. These
latter had only pushed slightly above the soil on January
30th, and gave their first product March 11th.

By the middle of February those plants first brought
in had begun to decline, the stalks being small and
slender. They were apparently nearly past their use-
fulness. All those growing under the bench were taken
out February 27th; those placed on the bench were re-
moved March 6th, and the ones brought in in January
were taken from under the bench March 17th.

The total yields obtained are as follows :—

Total. Av. per plant.
lbs. OZ. lbs. OZ.

Plants brought in Dec. 8th, not frozen,
No. 1, 3 plants, grown in the light, 1Y %
No. 2, 3 plants, grown in darkness, 5 5% 1 12,3;

54 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE.

Total. Av. per plant,
i Ibs. OZ. lbs. OZ.
Plants brought in Dec. 17th, frozen,
No. 3, 9 plants, grown in the light, 41 1 4 9
No. 4, 7 plants, grown in darkness, 43 7% 6 ts

Plants brought in Jan. 9th, repeatedly
frozen,

No. 5,8 plants, greenhouse darkness, 41 5% 5 242

No. 6, 8 plants (5 large 3 small),
cool cellar, dark, 107 15 6

Too much dependence must not be placed on these
yields. Plants taken from the college garden were used,
the variety being unknown. They may, or may not have
yielded as well as plants should. The conditions were
not such as to warrant drawing definite conclusions con-
cerning comparative yields, but they do show very clearly
the necessity of allowing plants to freeze before attempt-
ing to force them. They also seem to show some advan-
tage in yield in favor of plants grown in darkness rather
than in light. But the most striking difference is shown
in the greater yield from plants grown in the dwelling-
house cellar, as compared with those grown under green-
house benches.

As to the length of time required after bringing the
plants in from the field, it may be said that in the above
lots, No. 1, unfrozen, grown in the light, yielded prac-
tically nothing at any time. No. 2, unfrozen, grown in
darkness, yielded the bulk of its crop more than two
months after being placed in position. No. 3, frozen,
erown in light, gave its first large picking eight weeks
after being brought in and the second two weeks later,
the bulk having been taken at these two times. No. 4,
frozen, grown in darkness, yielded several pounds 17
days after being brought in and the bulk, within the next
two weeks, but continued to yield something for a period
of six weeks. No. 5 yielded one pound per plant three

EXPERIMENTS IN RHODE ISLAND. 5S

weeks from the time it was brought in, giving its heaviest
yield at the end of six weeks and a good yield at eight
weeks.

No. 6, placed in a cool cellar, gave its first product a
little more than two months after being placed there.
This lot continued to produce for two months. The
effect of temperature and of freezing on the time of
maturity is fully shown, but not the influence of lght,
for while No. 3 was much slower in yielding its return
than No. 4, brought in at the same time, the temperature
underneath the bench, where No. + was grown, was much
higher than the bench, where No. 3 was grown.

To test the cooking qualities of the product grown in
darkness as compared with that grown in hght, samples
of each were cooked separately, as nearly alike as pos-
sible, and placed on the table together. If properly
cooked, that grown in darkness makes a more attractive
sauce than that grown in the light, preserving much of
the same clear, bright color seen in the fresh stalks.
The product grown in the ight makes a darker sauce,
tending toward a dull, greenish unattractive color. Its
flavor, on the other hand, seems to be somewhat more
pronounced, perhaps a little richer, and would doubtless
be preferred by some. The flavor of the two products is
not alike, and the question of preference, would depend
chiefly upon the individual. The attractiveness of sauce
or pies made from the product depends chiefly upon the
method of cooking and the external color of the stalks,
it being unnecessary to remove the skin in either case.
This color of the stalk is in turn dependent upon the
conditions under which it is grown. In general, the
higher the temperature, the lighter will be the color.

That taken from the cooler dwelling-house cellar
was much brighter and more highly colored than that

56 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE.

grown in the warmer position beneath the greenhouse
bench. Stalks growing in the light also vary in color,
owing doubtless to individual characteristics of the
plants as well as to differences in the condition of light
and heat. ‘The color is best preserved in ‘cooking by
placing the product over the fire in cold water and allow-
ing it to heat gradually. Hot water applied at first
extracts much of the color.

* =. * —- A comparison between the normal leaf
development of light-grown and dark-grown stalks is
shown in the illustration “Leaf Development in Light
and in Darkness.” The product grown in darkness is
far more attractive than that grown in the light; if
not forced too hard it possesses a bright cherry or ox-
blood color, and the leaf is very small. That grown
in daylight possesses a darker and duller color some-
what mixed with green, and the leaf is large, as when
grown in the open air. The contrast in leaf develop-
ment, both in size and color, is very striking. The waste
product is, in the one case, large, in the other almost
nothing.

SUMMARY.

* * * Summing up these fragments, I wish
to impress upon every one who has a garden with rhu-
barb in it, the fact that he and his family may be enjoy-
ing in February and March of next year, a more beauti-
ful product than ever grows in the open ground. To do
it he will need to transfer a few roots to a dark corner
of the cellar after they have frozen in the fall, packing a
little fine mellow earth about them, and then simply
see that the plants are kept moist. Whoever owns a
garden with no rhubarb in it, should see that some is

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EXPERIMENTS IN

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58 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE.

planted there forthwith. A warm cellar will hasten the
crop; but a moderately cool one, will give a finer product
and probably a better yield. The length of time between
planting and harvesting varies from less than three
weeks to more than two months, depending chiefly upon
the temperature. Allowing the roots to freeze in the
field will greatly facilitate forcing. Large roots should
yield five to 10 pounds per plant ; and every 10 ounces of
that yield will make a delicious pie.

Note.—It is with no small degree of pleasure and
satisfaction that we append the above bulletin almost
entire. Kingston was, I think, the first experiment
station to take up and verify the work as previously
exemplified by myself. The encouragement thus given
this new industry will be of vast importance to the
people at large not only as producers, but also to the
consumers of the product.

AUTHOR.

CHAPTER XI.
HOW TO USE RHUBARB.

For Dessert.

Rhubarb Pies——To ordinary pie crust (which is
made with a teacupful of shortening to three teacupfuls
flour, and three-fourths teacupful very cold water) add
half teaspoonful salt and one teaspoonful baking powder.
Sift the salt and powder with the flour, add to this the
shortening, blend it with a knife and lastly add the
water—-ice water is best. Use the hand as little as
possible in the mixing so as to keep the paste cool. At
once roll out, fill and bake. For berry, pumpkin, or any
juicy pies the baking powder makes a dryer crust as it
prevents the ready absorption of the juices as in ordinary
pie crust.

Rhubarb Pie No. 1.—Stir into two cupfuls of rather
finely chopped rhubarb, a cupful of sugar with which a
tablespoonful of flour has been thoroughly mixed; then
add a beaten egg and arrange in a pie-plate with two
crusts. Let the oven be hot at first that the crust may be
properly baked, after which cool the oven to moderation
and take the pie out when it has baked 30 minutes al-
together. Rhubarb pie, like all pastry, is best the day it
is made.

Rhubarb Pie No. 2.—Two cups of chopped rhubarb,
one and one-quarter cups sugar. Put in shallow sauce-
pan with one-fourth cup of water and cook very fast.
When cold, line a pie plate with paste, wet the rim,
add the rhubarb and lay three or four bars of paste

60 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE.

across, forming diamond-shaped spaces, put a rim about
the pie, wash over with the beaten yolk of an egg and
bake in a quick oven 15 minutes.

Rhubarb Pie No. 3.—Beat one egg with three-fourths
cupful of sugar and a tablespoonful of flour. To this
add a cupful of rhubarb chopped or cut fine. Bake with
one crust. When done, cover the pie with the beaten
white of an egg, sweeten to taste, and let it brown in the
oven.

Rhubarb Pie No. 4.—Over three cups of finely
chopped rhubarb pour cold water, let stand 10 minutes,
then drain; mix two tablespoonfuls of flour with one
and a half cups of sugar, the yolks of two eggs and a
heaping tablespoonful of butter, beat well, then add four
tablespoonfuls of water, and the rhubarb. Stir all to-
gether and bake with a lower crust only. When done
make a frosting with the whites of the eggs and six
tablespoonfuls of sugar, spread over the top of the pies
and return to the oven to brown. This amount will make
two ples.

Pie Plant Charlotte—Wash and cut pie plant in
small pieces, cover the bottom of a pudding dish with
a layer of pie plant and sugar, then a layer of bread
crumbs and bits of butter, and so on until the dish is
full, having the crumbs on top. Bake half an hour in
a moderate oven. Allow a pound of sugar to a pound
of fruit.

Pie Plant Pudding.—Cover the bottom of a pudding
dish to the depth of one and one half inches with pie
plant cut in fine pieces, and a very lberal allowance of
sugar. Make a rich batter of one cup of thick sour
cream, one teaspoonful soda, one of salt (both level full),
and flour enough to make a stiff batter. Pour this over
the pie plant and bake one-half hour, or steam three-

HOW TO USE RHUBARB. 61

quarters hour. When done, turn bottom side up on a
large plate and spread with butter and sugar; or cover
with thick sweet cream and sugar with a little nutmeg
grated over the top.

Emergency Pudding.—Place a thick slice of fresh
bread (from which the crust has been removed), upon
a fancy dessert plate, cover the bread thickly with stewed
and well sweetened rhubarb, add a generous layer of
sugar, grate a little nutmeg over it and pour thick
‘sweet cream over all and serve immediately. Prepare as
many plates as there are people to serve.

Pick-up Pudding.—Cover slices of stale sponge cake
thickly with stewed rhubarb well sweetened ; cover with
whipped cream and dust powdered sugar over the top.

Best of all Pudding.—One tablespoonful butter, one
cup sugar, one egg well beaten, one pint flour, two tea-
spoonfuls baking powder, one cup sweet milk, beat well
and bake in two deep pie tins. As soon as done remove
from oven, cover with pie plant marmalade and this in
turn with the white of an egg and three tablespoonfuls
of sugar whipped to a stiff froth, return to the oven to
brown. Serve warm.

How to cook Rhubarb for Sauce——Nearly all the
recipes for cooking acid fruits advise adding the sugar
after the sauce has become perfectly cold, claiming that
the acid acting upon the sugar changes it to glucose and
that the higher the temperature the more rapidly the
change takes place, so that much more sugar is required,
if it is added while the same is cooking.

Now we have no quarrel with our scientific friends,
but we had always thought the flavor, color and texture
of rhubarb sauce, sweetened just before removing from
the fire, much finer than when the sugar was added
just before serving; so we quieted our conscience about

62 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE.
te

the extra sugar used, by thinking how much better the
sauce tasted.

To test the matter both methods were tried; 12
ounces of rhubarb were placed in a shallow stew pan with
three ounces of water, closely covered and stewed rapidly
until done, it was then turned out in a dish and set
away to get cold.

The sauce pan was then washed and 12 oz. of rhubarb
and three oz. of water was again cooked as at first, just
before it was done, four oz. of sugar was added and the
sauce allowed to boil one minute, when it was turned
into a dish to cool.

Just before tea time, four oz. of sugar was added to
the unsweetened sauce and well stirred in. Five people
were at the table and to each one was given two dishes
of sauce, that which had been sweetened while cooking,
in a glass dish, and the cold sweetened, in a china one;
after testing, each one was asked which sauce had the
better flavor, also which was the sweeter, and the most
attractive In appearance.

Every one at the table voted for the sauce in the
glass dishes, as being best in flavor and appearance ; two
of the number could detect no difference as to sweetness,
while the other three thought it the sweeter.

This test was perfectly impartial, as not one of the
people who ate the sauce knew which dishes contained
the sauce sweetened while cooking.

And now is our conscience clear, and lieth down like
a lamb, as we put the sugar into the pie plant while
cooking.

Forced Rhubarb Sauce.-—Wash the stalks and cut in
inch lengths without peeling. Put in a shallow stew
pan with a very little cold water and cook over a brisk
fire; when nearly done add one cup of sugar for every

HOW TO USE RHUBARB. 63

two of rhubarb, let boil up and turn out to cool. Always
use a porcelain or granite stew pan and turn into a glass
or china sauce dish, as soon as cool enough to insure
against breaking,

Cooked in this way the sauce will be a beautiful rose
pink in color, and in flavor and texture, “Fit to set
before the King.”

Rhubarb grown in the field or garden may be cooked
the same as the foreed product, in the early spring; but
later in the season, the following way will be found more
satisfactory.

Rhubarb Sauce No. 2.—Wash and peel the stalks
and cut in inch lengths. Pour boiling water over the
rhubarb and let it stand until cold. Drain, and to each
pint of rhubarb add one cupful of sugar. Let it stand
until juice enough is extracted to cook it without adding
any water. Simmer slowly until done.

To Preserve for Winter Use.

Rhubarb Jelly—Pie plant or Rhubarb, alone will
not make firm jelly; combined with apple or grape juice
a firm, fine flavored jelly may be produced.

Stew the rhubarb until tender, strain through a
jelly bag. Take nice tart red apples, wash and cut in
fine pieces without peeling or removing the seeds or cores
(unless wormy), stew as for sauce, but do not mash them
up, turn into a jelly bag and let drain. Boil the rhubarb
juice ten minutes then add the apple juice and_ boil
twenty minutes. Warm, in the meantime, the sugar in
the oven, stirring it often to keep from browning; allow
one pound for each pint of the juice (measured before
boiling) ; add the sugar to the boiling juice and continue
to boil until it jellies on the skimmer; remove from the

64 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE.

fire and turn into glasses. Let stand 24 hours, and
cover with a thin layer of refined paraffine wax. Tie
down closely with paper, or use tin covers if you have
them and keep in a cool dark place.

Rhubarb Marmalade-—Wash, peel, and cut up the
rhubarb; weigh and put into a preserving kettle and
stew until tender, add sugar in proportion of pound to
pound; let cook slowly, stirring very frequently. Be
careful not to let it scorch; an asbestos mat under the
kettle will be a safeguard. When the sauce has a clear
jellied appearance it is done. Take from the fire and
put in glass jars.

Canned Rhubarb.—Prepare rhubarb exactly as for
sauce. Use glass cans, fill them with boiling hot sauce
until it runs over the top of cans, put on the covers and
screw down as tightly as possible, wipe the can off clean
and with the back of a heavy butcher knife press the
flange of the cover down tightly against the rubber. Do
not meddle with the tops after they become cold, trying
to tighten them then, does more harm than good.

Canning Rhubarb in Cold Water.—Wash, peel, and
cut up the rhubarb, have the cans clean and well scalded ;
put a cup of water in each can and fill in with the cut
rhubarb pressing the pieces snugly together; set the
can in a deep tin pail and pour cold water into can until
it runs over, then fill wp the pail so the top of the can
is well under the water, when no more air bubbles rise
from the can serew the cover on as tightly as possible.
Remember the entire process of putting on the covers
must be done under the surface of the water, this will
effectually exclude the air, and if properly done the
rhubarb will keep perfectly. When ready to use, pour
off the water into the vinegar barrel and use the rhubarb

HOW TO USE RHUBARB. 65

for sauce or pies, same as though gathered fresh from
the garden.

Rhubarb Cooked in the Can.—Make a very rich syrup
and fill the cans about one third full, then fill to the top
with cut rhubarb, pressing the pieces into the can as
tightly as possible; put the covers on loosely. Have a
rack made with a slatted bottom which will fit in the
bottom of the wash boiler, set boiler on the stove with a
little water in the bottom, then set in as many jars of
fruit as you can and put more water in boiler, until
it comes within an inch or two of the top of cans; boil
at least 10 minutes from the time the water reaches
the boiling point. Lift the cans from the water and set
on a thickly folded newspaper, take off the cover and
fill the can to overflowing with hot syrup, put on the
rubber and screw on the cover as quickly as possible.

To make the syrup, allow one cup of water and 10 oz.
of sugar for every quart jar, put in a sauce pan and let
come nearly to the boiling point.

Rhubarb can be put up without sugar, observing the
general directions given above, using clear water in
place of the syrup.

Rhubarb Shortcake —This is sure to be appreciated
by the whole family. Bake in flat tins a shortcake of
rather rich biscuit dough, split open, butter well and
spread with stewed pie plant. Serve with sugar and
cream.

Rhubarb and Apple Pie.—Chop together an equal
amount of apples and rhubarb. Fill a deep pie dish with
this, putting in plenty of sugar, a lump of butter and
sprinkling over the fruit a little flour. Cover with a
top crust and bake.

Rhubarb Slump—Peel and cut quite fine sufficient
pie plant to measure one quart. Add to this a scant pint

66 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE.

of sugar and simmer gently until tender. Rub together
one and one-half cups of flour, one tablespoon butter,
one teaspoon sugar, one quarter teaspoon salt and one
heaping teaspoon baking powder. Wet with milk to a
soft dough, which turn on to a floured board and roll out
in a thick sheet that will just fit the top of the saucepan
containing the rhubarb. Lay this carefully over the
stewing fruit, cover closely and simmer slowly for half
an hour longer. Then lift the cooked crust to a deep dish
and pour the pieplant over. Eat hot as it is, or serve
cold with cream.

Rhubarb Betty.—Soak bread crumbs in salted water
until soft; and arrange in a pudding dish alternate lay-
ers of the crumbs and rhubarb cut into small pieces.
Sprinkle a generous amount of sugar and a httle nutmeg
on each layer. Dot the top with butter and bake in the
oven until brown. Can be eaten with butter and sugar,
or a hard sauce.

Rhubarb Fool.—Prepare a sauce with one quart cut
up stalks and one pint sugar. When cooked rub through
a sieve, return to the fire and stir for 10 minutes. Then
set away until cold. With this, mix one pint of thick
cream and serve immediately.

Rhubarb Jam.—Boil gently together for three hours
an equal amount of granulated sugar and rhubarb, add-
ing the juice and grated rind of one lemon for each
pound of fruit.

Rhubarb and Orange Preserve.
thin-skinned oranges; take off all the white rinds, and
slice them into the preserving kettle. Remove all seeds
from the oranges. Cut half of the vellow rind into
small pieces, and put with the orange pulp into the
kettle. Add two pounds of rhubarb stalks cut into small
pieces, a teacupful of water and three and one-half cup-

Peel six large, nice,

HOW TO USE RHUBARB. 67

fuls of sugar. Boil until the rhubarb is soft, and seal.

Steamed Rhubarb.—Wash, peel, and cut the rhubarb
into inch pieces. Put it into a granite double boiler, add
one cup of sugar for a pint of fruit, and cook till the
rhubarb is soft. Do not stir it. When the rhubarb is
very sour, steam it without sugar until the juice flows,
then drain it, add the sugar, and steam again till the
sugar is dissolved. Or pour boiling water over it and
let it-stand five minutes, then drain and steam.

Spiced Rhubarb.—Sprinkle two and one-half pounds
rhubarb peeled and sliced thin with one pound sugar.
Let stand over night and in the morning drain off the
syrup into a preserve kettle, add one cup sugar, one-half
cup water and one half cup vinegar. Tie in small cheese-
cloth bags one half teaspoon each of cloves, mace, all-
spice and ginger and one teaspoon cinnamon; boil until
the consistency of syrup, then add the rhubarb and cook
until clear. This is a valuable addition to the winter’s
stores.—| A. B. W.

Rhubarb and Gooseberries.—A palatable preparation
is made of half gooseberries and half rhubarb. Boil the
rhubarb and gooseberries with a very little water; when
soft, strain through a sieve, rubbing as much through as
possible. Return to the fire and boil until it looks clear
and begins to thicken. This will depend upon the state
of the fruit. If the gooseberries are partly ripe it does
not require so long boiling as it does when the fruit is
riper and has more juice. Now add the sugar, equal
weight with fruit weighed before boiling, and boil 15
minutes longer. Pour into bowls or glasses and when
cold cover with paper. This is very clear and sparkling
and has an excellent flavor. When cold it will turn
out like jelly and may be cut in slices. It makes nice
sandwiches for children.—[ Eleanor M. Lucas,

68 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE.

Rhubarb Compote-——Two pounds rhubarb all pre-
pared, one and one-half cups sugar, lemon peel, one pint
of water.

Rhubarb Tart—To one quart of stewed rhubarb
add three-fourth pounds of granulated sugar, five eggs,
five ounces of pulverized crackers, after the rhubarb
is stewed put through a sieve. The other ingredients
should be mixed well. Use only a bottom crust and bake
three-quarters of an hour.

Rhubarb Sherbet-—This is a pleasant, acid drink
for warm weather. Wash the stalks and cut into inch
pieces without skinning. Measure, and to one quart
put an equal amount of water. Simmer until very
tender. Add the grated rind of one lemon and three
tablespoons sugar, stirring until the latter is dissolved.
Cool and strain. Then chill on ice before serving.

Kansas Lemonade.—Put a little juice of stewed pie-
plant into a glass of cold water, sweeten to taste and
flavor with lemon.

Rhubarb Wine.
plant to a pulp. Weigh and allow one quart water and
one pound sugar to each pound of fruit. Mix well and

Peel, chop fine and mash the pie-

turn into an earthen receptacle, where it should be cover-
ed with a cloth and stand until it ferments, being stirred
daily. When fermentation ceases, skim and strain, pour
into a cask and let stand open for 24 hours. Then close
the bunghole and keep for four months, when it can be
racked off into bottles which should be closely sealed
and put away on their sides.

Rhubarb Vinegar.—Wash and cut the rhubarb into
inch pieces without peeling. Pound with a wooden
potato beetle; measure and put in a large stone Jar.
To each quart allow one pint water. Cover with cheese-
cloth and let stand in a warm room for 10 days, stirring

HOW TO USE RHUBARB. 69

twice a day. Strain through cheesecloth, measure and
return to the jar. Allow one cup sugar to each quart of
liquid. Adda few spoonfuls water, dissolve over the fire,
cool and add to the contents of the jar. Cover again
with the cloth and let stand as before until it is a good
strong vinegar, then bottle.

END OF PART ONE.

CHAPTERS f.
VARIOUS FORCING METHODS.

SoME growers near Boston and New York have rhu-
barb beds especially for forcing under glass without
transplanting. They are set closer than for field cul-
ture say two feet or 2 x 3 feet apart, the rows being
short and numerous thus giving the bed of rhubarb the
shape of an ordinary rectangular greenhouse, averaging
say 20 x 75 feet. At the side of this bed a skeleton frame
is erected, as for the ordinary sash house. Then when
desired to force the crop, say any time from December
to February, the space is covered with hotbed sashes,
the sides being boarded up and banked around with
manure.

“Sometimes steam pipes are run into the rhubarb
house, and the house then becomes like a greenhouse in
conditions, forcing the crop rapidly. The heat of the
sun alone and that of the manure piled around the out-
side hastens the crop greatly. The snow quickly melts
away. Sometimes the sides of the house are covered with
building paper. As soon as the weather becomes warm
the sash and frame are removed and the plants given
ordinary field culture. By this plan the crop is forced
without disturbing or injuring the plants which are
already in place for the following season, and summer
culture is made very casy and simple. When sashes are
not wanted for the rhubarb house, they can be used on
hotbeds. Much of the very early native crop around large
eastern cities comes from cold frames and forcing houses
built according to the plan just described.

(4 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE.

The more modern of these houses have an even-span
roof, two or more rows of sash on a side. The board
sides are three to four feet high, and the ridge six to
eight feet high, giving sufficient pitch to the sash roof.
Sashes are held in place by screw bolts, and about one-

| a :

LonG ISLAND SASH HOUSE.

third of the sashes on the upper rows on each side of the
house are hinged at the upper end to allow them to
be raised for ventilation. The ridge where the sashes
come together at the top may be protected with roofing
paper, and weather strips at the sides of the sashes will
save heat.

VARIOUS FORCING METHODS. 715

A somewhat different style is common on the farm
gardens of New Jersey and Long Island. One of these
at Flushing, L. I., is shown in the illustration. ihe
sides of board are only two feet high, but working space
is secured inside by means of a sunken walk through the
middle, thus dividing the interior into two beds extend-
ing lengthwise. These beds are a foot lower than the
ground outside. There are two rows of sash on a side.
The frame is nicely beveled to receive the sash, and the

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HoT WATER FORCING HOUSE.

ridge is protected by a permanent board covering. Roots
are taken up and packed closely, as in cold frames.
No artificial heat is usually considered necessary.
Hot Water System.—On the market garden farm
of Edward Farmer in the Boston district is a large
sash house, resembling an enlarged cold frame, but sup-
plied with extra heat by means of hot water pipes.
The house is about 260 feet long and divided crosswise
into halves by a board partition. Each half is forced
once in two years, thus allowing a full season’s growth to

76 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE.

vain strength after the process. By this plan the plants
have retained their vigor for six or seven years, if the
hills are kept down by dividing; but must be renewed or
replaced at the end of that period. Plants are set 2 x 3
feet, being forced where they grow.

A section of the interior is shown in the illustration
herewith. The building is about 30 feet wide. The
roof pitches enough to run most of the water off the
sashes, but if some leaks inside the crop is not harmed.
Each side of the roof is four sashes wide. The sides
of the building are of inch board the upper two-thirds
protected with felting paper. .The banking of manure
covers the lower third of the sides and is applied at
the time the sashes are put on. The heater is one of
the kind often used for heating dwellings. It cost
$50 without the piping. The heating pipe runs the
length of the building about three feet high, and the
return pipes are close to the sides of the building near
the ground. The box-like structure in the picture is a
wooden covering for the heater.

No attempt is made to secure ordinary greenhouse
conditions. Sometimes in very cold weather the tem-
perature goes away down, and the heater scarcely keeps
its pipes from freezing. But even if the leaves of the
hardy plant are stiffened with the frost, no permanent
harm is done. There are no pests or diseases in the
forcing house and the crop is regarded as a sure one.
It brings from eight to 15 cents per pound in the Boston
market. A very interesting feature of the house just
described is the way in which an extra crop is secured,
at slight cost. In September, two rows of dandelions are
transplanted between the rows of rhubarb as in the
illustration, the plants being obtained from a field out-
side. These are of a cultivated variety. When heat is

VARIOUS FORCING METHODS. rer

applied, the dandelions start in about four weeks and
are out of the way before the rhubarb needs the room.
The rhubarb is allowed to grow until it is well matured
and is picked only once, but the single picking 1s a
thorough one. ‘The crop occupies the house from De-

Hor WATER ForcinG HovsE (Interior View).

cember to March, after which period the glass is taken
off and used for other crops. Several other growers
use practically the methods Just described, some having
steam heat in place of hot water, and running a pipe
into the rhubarb house from an adjoining greenhouse.
Cold Frames.—The common plan for forcing with-

78 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE.

out artificial heat is by the use of cold frames made
rather deeper than ordinary, to allow full growth of the
stalks. Some cold frames are sunken pits, two feet deep
and covered with sashes. But the usual way is to
inclose with boards a patch of rhubarb thickly planted,
aud cover it with sash at the proper season, usually in
December. The only heat supplied is that of the sun
retained by the glass, and that afforded by a mixture of
manure and earth, banked up against the sides. Some
growers cover the plants with 18 inches of litter or
coarse manure during cold weather, also putting on the
sash and straw mats or wooden shutters, the object being
to keep the soil in the frames from freezing deeply. The
covering is raked off as soon as the coldest weather is
past. Most growers use no protection other than the
glass.

The care of cold frames for this hardy plant is so
simple and easy that a beginner will have no trouble.
A little ventilation must be given on warm days, by
raising the sash shehtly. Watering with a solution of
nitrate of soda, a teaspoonful to a pail of water will
help force the growth. Not much water is needed and
many do not water at all. A board shutter, like the one
illustrated, put over each sash on cold nights will prove
a help, but the shutter is not an essential for rhubarb,
as a freeze does not permanently injure the plants. Stir
the soil with a hoe and pull the weeds.

The illustration shows a good specimen of a double-
sash rhubarb frame without heat other than that sup-
plied by banking up with manure on the outside. For
this purpose the rhubarb is set 2 x 5 feet, and the frame
is put on without moving the plants. Two rows of
sash cover the frame and are put on the last of Decem-
ber, and the sides are banked at the same time. This

VARIOUS FORCING METHODS. 79

particular frame belongs to the great Rawson green-
house plant near Boston, Mass. The sides are of two
inch plank, two feet high, and the sash supports are
of 2 x 4 inch joists. The rhubarb is picked moderately
two or three times a season, and does not seem to be

W. W. Rawson’s COLD FRAMES FOR RHUBARB.

weakened much by the process. The variety is the
Linnzus. The location is at the south side of other
buildings, thus securing protection from the cold winds.
Such a location is a very important aid to earliness.
Where there is no room for the forcing patch south of
other buildings, it will pay to erect a board fence for

SLAND CoLD FRAME

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VARIOUS FORCING METHODS. 81

a shelter. For cold frames, Linneeus is usually consider-
ed the most satisfactory variety. The plan just describ-
ed, where a plot is inclosed and forced where it grows
in the field, represents the common practice in the
Northeast. In the gardening districts around New York
and Philadelphia, the roots are often dug up and packed
side by side in the frames, filling the spaces with earth.
The practice saves space but makes more labor and
causes greater injury to the roots.

One of the Long Island cold frames for single rows
of sashes is also illustrated, being shown without the
glass, as in summer and fall. The sides, two feet high,
are of inch board supported on edge by small stakes
driven close to the board. The alley between the string
of frames is two feet wide. During summer the sashes
are removed and piled, the ends of the string of frames
are removed and the ground kept in cultivation by horse
power. Very little hand work is needed with this crop.
No crossbars are used. By having one side about six
inches lower than the other, the fall will be sufficient
to carry off the water, but for a hardy plant like rhubarb,
leakage is not considered of much consequence. The
roots are transplanted and are packed in the frames the
last of December.

The method of making hotbeds for rhubarb is very
similar, but rather more care is taken to preserve heat,
and by the method described in Part First, Chapter IT.,
no glass is required. The cold frames, having no manure
to supply heat and depending wholly on the heat of the
sun, cannot be used to force a winter crop, but will bring
the spring crop a week or two earlier than the outdoor
grown, and will produce equal weight in yield as com-
pared with hotbeds. The method of forcing rhubarb

82 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE.

under greenhouse benches is described in Part First,
Chapter IT.

One grower near Boston estimates the yield of rhu-
barb under glass at 20 pounds per sash, worth at five
cents per pound, $1. The distance here was 2 x 2 feet.
The crop grew in about five weeks, after which the glass
was removed and used over radish hotbeds. Steam was
used to force this crop, the roots remaining in the ground
throughout the year.

Steam Forcing in Open Fields—Winter forcing in
the open field has been found practicable, the soil being
heated with steam or hot water introduced through
underground tunnels. European gardeners sometimes
construct permanent tunnels of brick between the rows,
and heat the plant beds with hot water through pipes
laid in these tunnels. A less expensive plan of field
forcing has been successfully tried at the Missouri ex-
periment station; asparagus being grown from 1896 to
1899, while during the season of 1900-1901, the rhubarb
crop was treated in precisely the same manner and with
every indication that the results would be equally favor-
able.

The idea of this method is to avoid the expense of
piping or other construction, by blowing hot steam into
board tunnels between the rows. Trenches were first
made between the rows, which are four feet apart. They
were opened with a plow, going once through and back
again, and were made uniform by means of a spade.
These trenches were then covered with 12-inch boards,
which rested on four inch blocks, placed at frequent in-
tervals along either side of the trenches. This formed
tunnels between the rows for conducting the steam. 'To
guard against the steam’s escaping, two or three inches
of soil was placed over the boards, and the plot was then

VARIOUS FORCING METHODS. $3

covered with five or six inches of horse manure. This
covering was to prevent the heat from escaping from
the soil too rapidly. It was then ready for the steam
to be turned into the tunnels. In the illustration one
of the tunnels has been uncovered to show its construc-
tion.

To conduct the steam a one and one half inch pipe
was carried above ground from the boiler to one end
of the central tunnel, a distance of 185 feet. A steam
hose long enough to reach each tunnel was attached
to this pipe through which to blow steam into the
tunnels. It was not the idea to give a constant supply
of steam, but to discharge a little into the tunnels each
afternoon, or as often as was necessary to maintain
sufficient warmth. <A piece of tile was inserted into the
mouth of each tunnel to prevent the discharging steam
from tearing away the earth.

_ The first steam was turned into the tunnels on
November 14. Steam was discharged into each tunnel,
not to exceed five minutes at a time, in order not to heat
the earth too hot in any single place. It required about
one hour of steaming the first day to bring the bed up
to the required temper rature of 60 degrees. The dis-
tribution of heat throughout the bed was very uniform
and satisfactory. The moist steam seemed to permeate
the soil equally in all directions.

After the first day, very little steaming Was neces-
sary until the crop began to be produce ,d.° On an av erage
the bed was steamed about twice in three days and then
only for about five minutes for each tunnel. The soil
and horse manure mulch seemed to hold the heat very
well, the frequent steamings keeping up fermentation
in the mulch.

The first picking was made in ten days. When steam
was not turned on until the last of December, the crop
was not ready until the middle of January. The results
are thus summarized by Horticulturist Whitten :—

The steam, coming in direct contact with the soil,

THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE.

84

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ONIOUOT NVALS

VARIOUS FORCING METHODS. 85

readily penetrates it, heating the whole bed uniformly ;
whereas if the tunnels are heated by inclosed steam or
hot water pipes, the soil becomes too hot and dry close
to the tunnels while it is too cold midway between them.
Forcing steam into the tunnels keeps the soil moist and
maintains more continuous fermentation of the manure
mulch, thus promoting steady heat.

The crop Ce in this way was larger, of finer
quality, and the bed produced longer, than that forced by
any other method tried. The plants thus forced recuper-
ate by being allowed to grow one summer without cut-
ting, while plants transplanted for forcing are ruined
by the process.

The amount of soft coal used to force a plot 2 ce x20
feet, in this way, from December 29 to February 25 (58
days), was 2,308 pounds, costing $1.82, or an ike of
39 pounds daily. During these 58 days, steam was turn-
ed into the six tunnels of this plot a total of 1614 hours,
equivalent to 17 minutes daily, or less than three minutes
daily for each tunnel. The forced asparagus yielded,
during the 58 days, at the rate of 9,882 bunches, or
4,880 pounds per acre. The yield of rhubarb has not
been stated. About five minutes at a time is as long
as steam can be forced into a tunnel without danger of
overheating the plants.

Forcing the crops where they can be grown in the
field, has a twofold advantage; saving the trouble and
cost of transplanting, and avoiding the injury done
to the plants by transplanting.

Exhausting steam into the bed, instead of returning
it to the boiler in an inclosed cireuit, would, at first,
seem to be a wasteful process of heating. [Experiment
showed, however, that the circumstances justified this
method. Heating a bed of this kind by a circuit of steam
pipes or hot water pipes is very unsatisfactory. The
heat from pipes very soon dries out the soil around the
tunnels, destroying its power to conduct heat. In this
way the bed becomes too hot and dry adjacent to the
tunnels, and too cold a short distance from them. It
also becomes necessary to maintain heat in the pipes
a good part of the time.

56 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE.

By blowing steam directly into the tunnels the soil
is kept moist; the steam has a penetrating effect, and
permeates all parts of the bed, giving a uniform heat
throughout; this moist steam keeps up a continual fer-
mentation of the manure muleh, thus giving heat and
only occasional brief steamings are necessary. Care must
be taken not to use too much steam at one time, or the
plants may be ruined by over heating. Our rows were
four feet apart, the tunnels midway between them were
only eight inches wide, and yet we found that five
minutes at a time was as long as was safe to force
steam into a single tunnel.

These experiments have been so successful as to in-
dicate that anyone provided with a steam heating plant
could successfully force asparagus or rhubarb for the
markets in this manner. ‘To still further test forcing
by steam, in the open field, we are now growing a field
in which four inch drain tiles have been placed one foot
below the surface, in such a way that we expect to use
them for wunder-drainage, for sub-irrigation and for
steaming the crop for winter forcing.

Exhibition Stalks.—When it is desired to grow espe-
cially large stalks of rhubarb for a choice trade or for
exhibition purposes, it is possible to increase the natural
size by thinning out all but the vigorous center buds,
simply cutting them off with a sharp spade, allowing the
whole strength of the roots to go to the large, vigorous
looking buds, of which not more than one or two should
be allowed to develop. To stimulate the hill to its ut-
most, set a large flower pot into the ground between the
hills, in the row, as in the accompanying illustration, and
fill it often with liquid manure of which too much can-
not be given. A good substitute for liquid manure is
nitrate of soda dissolved in water, using about a tea-
spoonful of the soda to two or three quarts of water.
Varieties like the Mammoth treated by this plan will
grow stalks of enormous size and attract much attention

VARIOUS FORCING METHODS. 87

at the local agriculturai fairs and prove a splendid ad-
vertisement for the grower.

A Good Plan tor forcing in the early spring although
somewhat more expensive than the one of heaping up
earth, is by use of frames made by driving stakes into
the ground each side of the row between every pair of
hills. These project three feet above ground, and leave
two feet between the opposite rows of stakes. Slant the_
stakes one way a little so that they are only 15 inches
apart at top. Fasten the laths to the top of the stakes,

FORCING WITH LIQUID MANURE.

and also along the sides. Then cover the frame all over
with fresh, strawy stable manure, making a layer about
one and one-half feet thick. Inside the frame the temper-
ature will be quite high, sometimes 60 degrees or more.
If it rises too high, holes may be made through the top of
the frame for ventilation. This plan will force the rhu-
barb almost as well as a hotbed and does not require
transplanting the plants. It does not permanently weak-
en the plants as it does to put them in greenhouse forc-

88 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE.

ing beds. The growth of the plant may be considerably
hastened by a simple covering six inches deep of light,
strawy manure, taking care not to cover them so deeply
as to cause the plants to decay. It sometimes happens
that a gain of a few days in supplying the local market
will increase the total receipts from the rhubarb planta-
tion by one-third. The price will sometimes drop within
a week from 10 cents per pound at retail to three or
four cents, and all the profit is made by the man who
gets the top prices. In city markets the difference be-
tween the very early prices and those a little later is
not so pronounced on account of competition of green-
house and southern rhubarb. But in many of the smaller
cities, the supply is entirely from outdoor growth, and
the earliest stalks are bought eagerly and at a high price.

A Plan of Forcing sometimes practiced is to trans-
plant the hills into large deep pots, the space around
the roots being filled up with sandy loam and the pot
set in the cellar where the temperature can be raised
sufficiently to start vegetation. .As soon as the heat
is applied the plants will begin to start, each pot will
produce two or three cuttings. After the third cutting
the roots may be taken up and replanted where they
will begin growing again without having suffered very
serious injury in the process. If there is a sufficient
supply of roots dug the pots can be refilled and another
early crop grown.

A Practical Way to blanch stalks in spring is tothrow
up the soil with a plow about a foot thick over the
hill. Nearly the whole stalk will then be blanched and
more delicate in color and flavor. This covering of
earth must be leveled down when the cutting ceases.
Keeping up the leveling process will dispose of most of
the weeds. The leaves after cutting, if spread on the

VARIOUS FORCING METHODS. 89

earth about the hills, will also assist greatly in smother-
ing the weeds, besides having considerable fertilizing
yralue and acting as a partial mulch.

It is customary with many gardeners to place head-
less barrels or boxes over the hills in spring in order
to force an extra growth of stalk. By this plan the
stalks shoot up long and slender but do not weigh more
than if left to grow in their natural manner. They
are rather more tender than stalks not forced, but the
process somewhat weakens the hill, and it is on the
whole not profitable.

Portable Forcing House.—In his forcing book, Pro-
fessor Bailey describes a unique plan for open field fore-
ing by installing a system of surface steam pipes to be
covered with a movable roof of muslin. In spring the
cloth roof is removed.

CHAPTER II.
EXPERIENCE IN FIELD CULTURE.

As a farm or market garden crop, rhubarb is grown
in large tracts near many of the principal cities of the
United States. Methods everywhere are quite similar.

- we Ost

RHUBARB FIELD IN JAMAICA, L. I.

Immense quantities are brought to the markets of
Greater New York by New Jersey and Long Island
farm gardeners. One of the most extensive growers 1s

EXPERIENCE IN FIELD CULTURE. 91

Abram Van Sicklen of Jamaica, L. I., who devotes about
12 acres to the crop besides 300 sash for cold forcing.
One of his main fields appears in the illustration.

The plan of management is as simple and inex-
pensive as possible. Plants obtained by division of old
hills are set 414 x 2 % feet. The soil is light clay loam
and is well manured before plowing. Cultivation begins
early in spring, is repeated as often as the ground gets
hard or weeds appear, and continued until plants begin
to die down in autumn. Manure is plowed in each fall
and sometimes a dose of ready mixed commercial ferti-
lizer is applied in the spring. Stalks are pulled only
once each season, but the harvesting is quite thorough,
all the large stalks being removed. The crop 1s marketed
just as pulled, leaves on, and stalks tied in bunches of
two or three pounds. ‘These bunches are packed on
market wagons as closely as possible and carted 10 or 12
miles to market. Mr. Van Sicklen estimates the yield
at 10 tons per acre in favorable seasons. He does not
consider the outdoor crop very profitable on account of
low prices in recent years. When the market is oversup-
plied, the surplus must be sold to canners at almost give-
away prices. The variety grown on the Van Sicklen
farm is the Victoria, which although later than the
Linneus is of better size and appearance, and as soon as
it enters the market the smaller kind is crowded out.
Canners will not usually buy the Linneus. Growers who
have extra early land find it nevertheless profitable, be-
cause it reaches the market several days before the Vic-
toria.

Four acres of Mr. Van Sicklen’s 12-acre tract are
devoted to growing plants for the cold frames. After
once forcing, these plants are usually thrown away as
worthless. Hence new plants must be started every

92 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE.

year in order to have enough mature plants ready for
forcing and to renew the outdoor plantations which are
plowed up every three or four years, or as soon as the
stalks get too small for bunching, and a new plantation
is set on fresh land. The cold frames are of a common
style except that the sides are fully two and one-half
feet high to allow for growth of the rhubarb stalk. They
are illustrated on page 80. Two-year-old plants are
packed into frames as closely as possible and the spaces
filled with earth and manure. Sashes are put on early
in February and the crop gets to market well ahead of
the field-grown product. It is marketed in the same
way as the open-air crop, but with more care in cleaning
and bunching.

For the Washington Market.—The most southern
district in which rhubarb is grown in large acreage, 1s
the market gardening section of Maryland, supplying the
city of Washington. Many of the gardeners raise from
one to three acres, and the aggregate is large. The plant
seems to thrive, and there is always a surplus of the
product for early shipment to the various northern cities.
By using hothouses, hotbeds and cold frames, assisted
by the warm climate, some of the growers obtain a very
early and profitable crop.

A leading grower of this section, Mr. Elias B. Rowell,
writes: “A well drained but moist loam seems to suit
rhubarb the best. The plant will be killed by standing
water, but having a rank habit of growth it requires an
abundance of moisture.

“The early rhubarb sells the highest. Hence a south-
ern exposure and protection from north and west winds
are desirable. The people in this neighborhood are mar-
ket gardeners and small truckers growing quite a variety
of crops. Hence there are no very large fields of rhubarb

EXPERIENCE IN FIELD CULTURE. 93

here, three acres would be about the limit for any one
grower. ‘There is but one variety grown in this section,
the Linnzeus.

“Rhubarb is usually planted about 3 x 3 feet, the sets
being made by subdividing the old hills. About the time
the rhubarb begins to start in the spring the hills are
covered with fresh manure to induce earliness. I sell
my rhubarb in Washington, but a large part of the
crop is shipped by dealers to places further north. Very
little rhubarb is sent here from the south, our early
market being supplied by rhubarb grown in hothouses,
hotbeds, cold frames, ete.

“The crop is a profitable one on soil that is adapted to
it. For outdoor rhubarb the price ranges from five cents
to two cents per bunch of four or five stalks, the size and
length increasing as the price decreases.”

A Veteran Rhubarb Grower in the Boston market
gardening district, Mr. M. Sullivan of Revere, kindly
supphes the following account which fairly represents
the methods employed in that section :—

“T would select a location open and free of trees,
south or southeast aspect, having a deep, rich soil. Open
deep furrows with the plow four feet apart, shoveling out
all loose soil down to hardpan. Fill one-half of the open
furrow with the best well rotted stable manure in
which set the roots two eyes to a piece. Cover with the
hoe or a very light ferrow with a one-horse plow, the
plants to be three feet apart in the row. The varieties
most cultivated are the Linnzus and Victoria. The first
named is about two weeks earlier than the other, and it
is yet an open question as to which is more profitable.

“The time of planting considered best by market
gardeners is just after the spring crop is gathered; this
would be in July and August. The first season, keep

94 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE.

the ground stirred and free from weeds, and in the fall
apply a liberal quantity of stable manure placed directly
on top of each plant. The second year in the spring
the ground is plowed between the rows and the manure
on top of the rows forked under.

“No cropping should be allowed the second year after
planting, but the ground kept well cultivated and free
from weeds.

“In the fall a heavy dressing of manure should be
spread all over the planting and this plowed up towards
the rows. The third year from planting an early forking
up of the soil about the plants will help forward them,
and one or two strippings for market may be made. The
plantation is then made and is good for from six to ten
years according to care and cultivation. It would be
fair to estimate the average annual value of the crop
at $200 per acre.

“The preparation for market is simply to remove the
leaf down to about two inches of the stalk, and pack in
boxes or tie in bundles of 20 to 30 pounds. Weighing
should be done at time of loading and tags attached or
the weight numbered on boxes, preparing in this way for
instant delivery.”

Chat on Rhubarb.—On the Squire estate near Boston
is a one-acre patch of rhubarb which produced large
and paying crops for many years. “How large a crop
do you get?” was the question asked of Foreman Con-
nell.

“From eight to 10 tons, so far this year, from this
field of one acre,” was the reply, “and we shall keep on
picking for a month longer. We picked three rows this
morning and sent in 4,600 pounds. We go over about
one-third of the patch every other day, so that the whole
field is gone over about once a week.”

EXPERIENCE IN FIELD CULTURE. 95

“What are the prices?”

“A cent and a-half to-day (May 15). The first pick-
ing was sold at four cents, which was a lower figure
than usual at the start. The western rhubarb keeps the
price down this year. Usually it does n’t go below one
cent, but I should not be surprised if it should drop to
50 cents a hundred this season.”

“What is the variety?”

“The Victoria. That is the largest and best.”

“How do you gather it?”

“We have one man go between the rows, pulling two
rows at a time. Others follow and cut off the leaves,
clean the stems and pack in barrel boxes. At the work-
room the rhubarb is tied in bundles of 25 or 30 pounds
each.”

“How is the rhubarb cultivated 7”

“There isn’t much work to it. The big leaves shade
the ground and smother the weeds. The hills are set
4x 4 feet, but we only cultivate one way. We begin after
picking time and cultivate a few times before autumn,
when we apply about 12 cords of horse manure per acre
broadcast and cultivated into the soil. Then in the
spring we cultivate again. That 1s all.”

Methods in Illinois —The earliest field grown rhu-
barb reaching northern markets, excepting a few ship-
ments from the Pacific coast, comes via Chicago from
the extensive growers of southern Illinois. These ship-
ments have for the past dozen years skimmed the cream
of high prices, and the growing competition is severely
felt by eastern producers. The [linois district 1s near
the southern limit of the greatest vigor of the rhubarb
plant, and is favored with sunny skies and early soil.
The methods are not essentially different from those of
other sections, as may be seen from the following account

96 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE.

of the management of James Bell’s large field in Union
Co., Illinois :—

“T have about 20 acres of pie plant under cultivation.
I do not know what varieties they are as the first I
planted I got the roots from a farmer here and have
never made any test as to variety. At the present time

RHUBARB READY FOR NEW YORK MARKET.

1 am raising live stock and get the manure from them to
fertilize with and believe that is the best plan. The
manure is spread over the ground, but not on the hills,
in the fall and turned under.

“The plants are set four feet apart each way, and
about four inches deep. I try to keep them free from all

EXPERIENCE IN FIELD CULTURE. 97

grass and weeds by running a double shovel twice each
way through the rows five or six times during the season
after pulling for market. No irrigation is needed here.
I do not try to force but where possible plant on a
slope toward the south. To gather the crop the pullers

RHUBARB IN FIELD CULTURE.

go first pulling two rows, laying the stalks in the middle
between the rows. The trimmers come after them cut-
ting off the leaves and placing the stalks in boxes. These
boxes are carried to a bench and are there packed for
shipment in a 50-pound package which I manufacture,

98 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE.

22 inches long, having two heads, each 12 inches square.
The price in Chicago market begins at six cents and
gets as low as one cent per pound.”

A Wisconsin Specialist—In the region about the
great lakes are many rhubarb specialists, who devote
large areas to the crop, and ship much of the product
south and east to the large cities. The business of
winter forcing elsewhere described in this volume, has
reached great development in the section to which allu-
sion has been made. One of the most extensive growers
of the open-air crop is Mr. F. S. Thompson, of Wiscon-
sin, whose annual yield of 100 tons or more requires
10 to 15 acres devoted to the plant in various stages
of growth. His methods may be summarized as fol-
lows :—

A black, sandy loam is preferred. If sod land is
used it is worked one season before setting to rhubarb.
In the spring the surface is heavily manured, then the
land is plowed deep and well harrowed, leveled with a
drag, rolled, and the rows marked. Ashes, bone meal,
or hen manure are sometimes added as an extra dressing
when available. Plants, usually obtained by division
of old roots, are set 4 x 4 or 4 x 5 feet, according to the
variety of rhubarb. Every ninth row is left unplanted
to allow a driveway for teams in tending and harvesting
the crop. Holes for planting are made with a spade.
Several shovelfuls of manure are put in with each
plant. The plants are set crowns level with the ground.
Stalks are not pulled from new beds until the third
season.

During the season the cultivator is run often enough
to keep down the weeds. Late in the fall, any remain-
ing weeds are pulled up and carried away, also the leaves
and refuse, to prevent frost being held by them in the

EXPERIENCE IN FIELD CULTURE. 99

spring. But if leaves are not very numerous they are
allowed to remain. Finally, a furrow is plowed close
beside each row on one side only as in the illustration,

METHOD OF RIDGING IN FALL AND SPRING.

and in such a way that the ridge is left facing the south.
That is to say, the furrow is made on the sunny side of
the row, the idea being that the exposure brings out
the frost more quickly in the spring.

L ef C.

100 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE.

These furrows are half filled with coarse manure
the following spring and the ridge of earth near the
plants turned back, covering the manure and leaving
another small furrow very close to the hills. This second
furrow is partly filled with manure, and finally the whole
surface is leveled off with a fork or pronged hoe, at
the same time taking pains to stir all the soil about the

RIDGED BED IN WINTER.

hills. The application takes 25 to 50 loads of manure
per year per acre.

The first stalks are pulled when not over six inches
high. The help are instructed to grasp the stalk near
the lower end, and‘to avoid breakage the pullings are
left in the sun until slightly wilted, thus making such
kinds as the Victoria less brittle. The stalks are carted
‘to the packing house, where the root ends are cleaned

EXPERIENCE IN FIELD CULTURE. 101

and the leaves clipped within less than an inch of the
stalk, if meant for distant market, but for local trade
the leaves are left on. Bunches are made up of from two
to five stalks, according to size of stalks, tied with twine,
and carted to market or crated and shipped.

This grower trims old, overgrown roots with a plow,
simply gouging off a portion of the hills when they
become overgrown. The part torn off by the plow in
this way is of little use for transplanting, and does not
leave the hill in such good condition as when the work
is done with a spade. But for large fields the plow
method is a great time saver. From the parts torn off
by the plow, many plants can be picked out which will
answer for transplanting, although most of them are
too ragged in appearance for anything but home use.
Unless the hills are trimmed in some way the stalks grow
smaller year by year, until in five or six seasons they
are not large enough for market.

On this farm the favorite variety is the Red Mam-
moth. because of its large size, red color and great yield,
Mr. Thompson estimates the product of an acre of this
variety at over 3,000 dozen bunches per year, worth in
the Milwaukee market on the average between $500 and
$600. He estimates for one acre the average yearly
expense, taking a term of twenty years, at about $150
per year. When growing rhubarb in hotbeds, he counts
on $10 to $15 per sash of common size.

On the Pacific Coast the rhubarb crop succeeds un-
der irrigation or in the cool, moist climate of the regions
near the sea. In California there are large growers who
supply the local markets and who also ship large quanti-
ties overland to the cities of the eastern and central
states. In the state of Washington the cultivation of
rhubarb has hardly passed the experimental stage, but

102 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE.

some at least of the standard varieties have been shown
to succeed. Both in Washington and Oregon the Chi-
nese gardeners have supplied a good share of the market
product; in fact the largest growers in Oregon are
Chinamen. The yellow gardeners manure highly and
cultivate thoroughly, which are the two main essentials
in field culture, and the plant thrives luxuriantly under
their care. The horticulturist and gardener of the
Oregon experiment farm, George Coote of Corvallis,
describes his method of cultivation as follows :—

“Before planting out, I have the soil deeply plowed
up two furrows deep; this is done by plowing the first
furrow deep, and following in the same furrow, thus
getting a depth of 15 or 16 inches. Then I place well
rotted manure in the bottom of the furrow, and with
the hoe I pull in about six inches of soil over the manure.
This done, I plant every five feet in the row. I find
that the plants make a much better growth when treated
in the manner described, as it enables the roots to
penetrate the soil, and the growth is much better than in
shallow soil. The varieties grown here are the Victoria
for early and the Giant for late.

“T have relied on barnyard manure only, digging it in
around the plants in the late fall. In early spring I
have used the liquid from the stable, diluting one-half
with water, and placing it in a small trench around the
plant and letting it soak down the roots. This treatment
I find helps the growth wonderfully. My method is not
to pull the plants every year, as they soon run out. I
find by giving them a rest every other year the strength
is kept up. I pull every other plant this year and give it
a rest the next. Constantly pulling weakens the plant
to such an extent that in three or four years it is fit
for nothing.”

CHAPTER III.
VARIETIES AND STATION TESTS.

SEVERAL of the standard kinds are briefly noticed at
the conclusion of Part I, Chapter III. The ordinary
varieties succeed in all parts of the country except in
the extreme south, where drought and continued hot
weather prove unfavorable; the plants shoot up to seed,
and, unless favorably situated, soon die out. In the
eastern states the kinds mostly grown are Linnus for
early and Victoria for late. Other kinds are reported
tried only in an experimental way. In the South these
two standard sorts appear to have been the only ones
publicly tested.

The same varieties constitute the great bulk of rhu-
barb shipments made by the extensive growers of the
central western states to eastern markets, although the
larger kinds have lately been meeting with some favor.
The rhubarb specialists of Wisconsin and the Northwest
also depend largely on the older standard kinds, both for
outdoor crop and for winter forcing. Some specialists
here, however, prefer for main crop the large, late variety
known as Stott’s Mammoth, Mammoth Red, and under
various other titles. This kind is distinct from the
Mammoth Green, and shows good color, either outdoors
or in forcing pits.

Linnaeus.—The standard for earliness is Linneus.
It has fine, bright color, thin, tender skin which does not
need to be removed in cooking. The flavor and appear-
ance of the cooked product is unsurpassed. Most im-
portant of all, it is the earliest of the standard kinds. Its

104 THE NEW- RHUBARB CULTURE.

weak point is the comparatively small size of the stalks,
and the smaller yield. It reaches market nearly a week
earlier than Victoria, and is therefore the more profitable

STALKS OF LINN2XUS.
for growers whose main profit comes from early sales.
On account of its inferior size, it does not sell readily
after the large kinds get to market, and is not usually

STALKS OF VICTORIA.

wanted by canners, who, like the general public, appear
to judge rhubarb by the size alone.
Victoria.—The standard for the mid-season crop 1s

VARIETIES AND STATION TESTS. 105

the old Victoria. It is about a week later than Linnzus
and about 2 week earlier than the mammoth varieties.
Stalks are large and of fine appearance. Their color is
bright and clear, the fiber is crisp and tender, with
plenty of juice, and the flavor is excellent. Most can-
ners and wine-makers prefer it to all others. Both for
market and for home use, it is grown far more commonly
than any other variety. It produces less weight per
acre than the mammoth kinds. Another weak point

BUNCH OF VICTORIA READY FOR MARKET.

is its overabundant production of seed. Seed stalks are
numerous throughout the season and must be removed as
soon as they show or the plant becomes weakened.
Mammoth Red or Stott’s Mammoth.—This variecy
is catalogued under several different names, but is com-
monly known by the wholesale growers of the eastern,
central, and northern states as the Mammoth Red, or
simply as Mammoth. On the Pacific coast the same
variety, or one very similar, is called The Giant. It
is a tremendous cropper, growing four to five feet high,

106 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE.

including leaves, in field culture and producing a great
number of short, thick stalks to the hill. The color
of the stalks is a deep red, whether grown outdoors
or in the forcing house. The texture and flavor are not
so fine as with the smaller and less rankly growing
varieties, but the general appearance is so attractive
that the Mammoth will crowd out the earlier and smaller

BUNCH OF MAMMOTH RED.

sorts as soon as it appears in the market. For winter
forcing it is preferred by many growers to any other
kind. It is a steady yielder throughout the season, and
gives comparatively little trouble with the seed stalks.
St. Martin’s.—This variety is of English origin, and
has been highly recommended, but practical tests do not
seem to support its claims to favor. Introducers ascribed
to it a delicious, nutty or spicy flavor, but the Ontario
experiment station considered its quality poor, and stalks
were not ready for use until from three to six days after

VARIETIES AND STATION TESTS. LON

Linneus. It is, however, a productive kind, and the
stalks are large, and of good appearance.

Monarch.—A Boston seedsman introduced a Scotch
importation of rhubarb about fifteen years ago under

»
HILL OF ST. MARTIN’S.

the name of Monarch. For several years it was awarded

first prize at the exhibitions of the Mass. Horticultural

Society, as the largest and finest variety. On one occasion

the twelve stalks shown weighed 28 pounds, leaves off.

MONARCH RHUBARB.

The writer has found this kind rather inferior in quality
and the skin is rough. The average length of the stalks
is about 15 inches, but they are of large size, many stalks
weighing more than one pound each. Color is fairly

108 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE.

bright. It considerably resembles Mammoth Red or
Stott’s Mammoth, and matures at about the same time,
but is a less abundant yielder.

There are numerous varieties of rhubarb outside
those mentioned. Some of them reach extreme size, but
the large kinds are mostly inferior in quality and are
later than the medium size kinds. There is an orna-
mental variety, a native of the Himalaya mountains, that
is of some interest from its decorative value. The leaves
are large and glossy, a vivid green, the stems are distinct
red, while the flower stems are of a bright golden yellow,
and so prominent as to be far more showy than the
greenish pink edged flowers. The stalks have the quali-
ties of other varieties of rhubarb, but this kind is not
adapted for commercial uses.

Range of Varieties—On the Pacific coast and in
Canada the same varieties have been found to succeed
as in the central and eastern United States. At the
Ontario station seven varieties were tested in rows six
feet apart, plants four feet apart in the rows. They were
Egyptian Queen, Carleton Club, Linneus, Paragon,
Stott’s Mammoth, St. Martin, and Victoria. The verdict
was that Linneus is one of the best for market or home
use. Paragon was later than Linneus and not so good
quality and suffered from sunburn. St. Martin was large
but poor quality. Carleton Club was the largest of all,
and of quite good quality. Stott:s Mammoth is also
large but stalks are shorter. One leaf of this kind
measured 31 x 38 inches. It is late but the quality is
the best. Egyptian Queen was a very fine flavor, medium
size, and considered good for home use or market.

Northern Limits—This hardy vegetable has been
tested as far north as the northwest territory of Canada
where it seems to thrive, enduring the winter cold rather

VARIETIES AND STATION TESTS. 109

better than the summer drouth, however. The varieties
most used are Tottle’s Improved, which is an English
importation, and the old standard Victoria and Straw-
berry. The plant has also been successfully grown in
northwest and central Alaska where very few of the
vegetables will survive the climate. In the Northwest
Territory, Victoria and Linneus were fit for use May 31,
although not as large as Carleton Club or Stott’s Mam-
moth, they were of finer flavor. One stalk of the Carle-
ton Club measured over nine inches in circumference.
Stott’s Mammoth appeared not well adapted to the
elimate and many plants died.

At the Dominion experiment farm in Manitoba in
1893, 20 standard varieties were tested, some of them
imported from England, others obtained from the United
States. It was found that the standard kinds would
thrive and ripen seed in abundance. The earliest kind
reported was Manitoba Seedling No. 1, which was ob-
tained by planting the seed of the Victoria. This kind
is ready for use May 26.

Another interesting test of earliness and yield was
made at the Manitoba experiment station. It is how-
ever, unfortunate that the seedlings were not tested
along with some of the standard kinds. The stalks of
the plants, set out the preceding year, were pulled every
10 days and weighed; below will be found the returns
per plant, ete. As the plants were set 4 x 4 feet the
rate of returns per acre were in some instances very
large. Following are the tabulated results :-—

Variety. Yield per plant.

Seedling of Ready foruse. Ibs. 0z. Quality.
Victoria, May 26, BI 02 Choice, tender.
Myatt’s Linnzeus, May 28, 19), 18 Good ay
Johnston St. Martin June l, 6 00 Green, hard, poor.
Stott’s Mammoth, — June 10, Saas Fair quality.

Tottle’s Improved, June I, 18-45 Good, tender,

abd THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE.

Promising new seedlings.—Seedlings often vary con-
siderably from the parent stock, and many growers
who have raised their stock from seed have obtained
variations which are worthy careful testing at the ex-
periment stations. For instance, Prof. Maynard of
the Massachusetts station is trying a new seedling of
the Linneus, which is of a peculiarly bright pink or
red, and which would present a very attractive appear-
ance in the early market. Manitoba experiment station
tried a number of seedlings of the Victoria, and dis-
covered one that was ready for use May 26, or several
days earher than any of 20 standard kinds tested. It was
also a heavy cropper, producing 20 pounds two ounces
per plant. The flavor was good and the stalk tender.
These instances show the great possibilities in the im-
provement of the plant. The originator of a mammoth,
high colored variety which should have the earliness and
fine quality of the Linnzus, would no doubt find a
profitable sale for his discovery.

Work of the Experiment Stations —Comparatively
little has been done with the rhubarb crop at the ex-
periment stations. Most stations have rested content
after having tested the adaptability of the plant to the
soil and climate, and after comparing the different
varieties. Rhode Island has conducted valuable experi-
ments in dark forcing, as described elsewhere in this
volume, and in bulletin 55 of the station. Professor
F. W. Card who carried on these tests, writes :—

“Tests, the past winter, since the publication of that
bulletin, show that in a cool cellar the plants are too
slow in coming into growth to give satisfactory results,
although the product is excellent, when obtained. Any
cellar in which a furnace is kept running during the
winter will give good results or the temperature may

VARIETIES AND STATION TESTS. ea

be maintained by means of a lamp or oil stove, and
partitioning off the place where the plants are growing
with canvas or other material. The forced product
grown in this way is very attractive, the color of the
stalks being particularly bright and beautiful.”

New Jersey station has tried Linneus for winter
forcing, but thinks Victoria would have succeeded better,
and recommends use of two-year-old plants in place of
one-year-olds, for forcing. Missouri station reports fair
success with winter rhubarb under greenhouse benches,
and is trying a new method of outdoor, steam forcing,
as described in Chapter I. The stations of Ontario, the
Dakotas, Alaska, Northwest Territory, and Manitoba
have done useful work in testing hardiness and adapta-
bility of old and new varieties. The results, also the
Massachusetts experiments with rhubarb varieties, are
included in the descriptions of varieties in the preceding
part of this chapter.

Several of the southern experiment stations have
tried the crop, but with poor success in theextreme south,
where the long summer drouth appears to kill out the
plants in a year or two, unless located at a high altitude
where the summers are cooler, or unless cultivated under
irrigation. Maryland is the most southern state where
the crop is reported grown on a commercial scale to any
great extent, but the success of the crop under irrigation
in California, Idaho, Colorado, and other parts of the
arid section, would indicate that rhubarb will thrive
luxuriantly wherever there is frost in winter and an
abundant supply of water during the greater part of the
growing season.

At Texas experiment station, the rhubarb plants died
out in the drouth of August, whenever tested. But
the experimenters report a good growth of the plant in

gl es THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE.

spring and early summer, and they suggest that rhubarb
might pay if grown as an annual crop, fresh roots being
set every year.

In Louisiana, the crop is grown in gardens only, by
those who have obtained roots from the North. At-
tempts have been made to grow the plant at the state
experiment station, but without continued success. Rhu-
barb is not on sale in the markets, and no demand for
the product has been created, the people being un-
familar with its use. The long, hot summer of the
Gulf coast region seems to prevent proper root develop-
ment, and the only benefit from the plant is from roots
obtained from the North in spring, and used only one
year. In the South, rhubarb may be set in the late
fall with success; transplanting any time before Christ-
mas. In fact the fall transplanting is likely to be fully
as successful as when the operation is performed in
spring, unless the locality is so far south that the roots
fail to get the bracing effect of a freeze in winter.

Rhubarb cannot be successfully grown in North
Carolina except in the cool soil of the high mountain
valleys. Horticulturist W. F. Massey of the state ex-
periment station has tried it repeatedly at Raleigh, both
with purchased roots and seedlings, and in the dry soil
there it rarely survives the first summer. In low moist
bottom land some partial success may be had, but it is
apparently not a plant adapted to commercial culture
there. With strong roots brought from the North, Prof.
Massey could easily force the stalks in winter under
greenhouse benches, in cellars or in barrels in the open
ground packed around with heating manure, but the
first winter would end the usefulness of the roots. He
has now a piece of low, black soil in which he proposes
to make another experiment with the plant, but has

VARIETIES AND STATION TESTS. 113

never yet succeeded in growing a crop of rhubarb or of
gooseberries or currants there, though all succeed in the
western part of the state in the valleys and table lands
elevated from 2,000 to 4,000 feet above the sea.

The elevated regions of Arkansas are likewise favor-
able to successful culture of rhubarb, although the plant
has received no special attention, and there are as yet
no large growers. Horticulturist Walker of the Arkan-
sas state experiment station writes :—

“We have growing, a few plants of Linnzus rhubarb
at the station in Fayetteville, and I am convinced that
with attention to cultivation in the heat of summer, and
the selection, so far as possible, of the cooler locations,
and by thorough manuring, the plant can be grown suc-
cessfully even on our more sandy soils. In many re-
spects its requirements are like those of celery. The
diffeulty usually is with this, in common with other
crops, that the grower ordinarily does not give the plant
the proper care. In suitable soils and locations in this
part of the state there is little difficulty even with in-
different care, but in soils less perfectly suited to it,
good and intelligent care is the price of success. All
this northwest portion of the state is elevated. Just
how well the plant will do in the lower and warmer parts
of the state remains to be determined.” .

One-half acre of Linnaeus rhubarb is grown by R. C.
McCullom near Fayetteville, and he seems to make it
thrive as well as in the north. He declares he finds
it about the most profitable of all his crops. It is planted
in rows about four feet apart, by two and one half or
three feet in the row. The location is on the top of a
mountain at an elevation of some 1,200 feet or more.
The formation is limestone. The soil is a rich clay
loam, very similar to the soil in the blue grass lands of

114 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE.

Kentucky. His principal cutting is in the spring. The
plant makes a splendid fall growth and would furnish
a crop at this season if the market could use it. The
soil is what is known as “Pawpaw” land.

Much of the soil of the district is a sandy loam, and
often nearly sand. In such soil, the plant is naturally
not so much at home as in the cooler loam. But even
here, it could no doubt be grown with some care. An-
other successful grower in the same locality is Jacob
Schlafley. From the plant he makes a wine which those
who have tasted it pronounce a fine drink. He has on
account of his rhubarb wine some local fame.

CHAPTHR DLV.
HINTS AND HELPS.

For Early Market—The secret of the earhest out-
door rhubarb, which always brings a good price, con-
sists in an éarly variety grown on early land with a
protected, sunny slope. High manuring must not be
omitted, for the rankest growing plants are also the
earliest. Good cultivation is the remaining essential
to earliness. The bulk of the crop will of course depend
largely upon the water supply, and irrigation will pay,
if practicable. In starting the plantation, set only plants
with strong, vigorous looking roots. Accept only those
which have grown rapidly under high culture, and do
not be swindled with stunted roots dug out of grass land.

The ground should be plowed deeply, since the roots
eo down three or four feet. In regard to manuring there
is no danger of getting too much. Rhubarb is the rank-
est of rank feeders, and manure may be applied in any
quantity directly to the hill when setting the crowns.
10 or 12 cords to the acre is none too much. ‘The ma-
jority of growers make a mistake right here in not feed-
ing the plant liberally enough. Set the plants either
4x4 or 3x5 feet. When set 4 x 4 the hills can be
cultivated both ways, but the plant itself gives so much
shade that most growers cultivate only one way and the
weeds give little trouble. No hand hoeing is needed.
The main difficulty is in getting the rhubarb rightly

started.

116 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE.

The after care is very simple. After the picking
season run a cultivator often enough to keep the weeds
down. Three or four times will usually be enough. ‘The
great point is to apply plenty of manure. Spread on 10
or 12 cords to the acre just before the last cultivating,
and let the cultivator work it into the soil. The follow-
ing spring cultivate again. If any artificial fertilizer is
wanted the only thing worth while is nitrate of soda.

PACKING SHED FOR RHUBARB.

Growers not prepared to make the land as rich as pos-
sible, had better let rhubarb alone. In the spring, culti-
vate once before picking time.

jathering the crop is a fine art. Pick only the stalks
that have nearly attained their growth. ‘These are most-
ly on the outside of the hill and can be selected by the
smoothness and dull color of the leaf, and the mature
appearance of the stalk. The growing stalks look red

HINTS AND HELPS. 117
and vigorous and the leaves are small and rumpled.
These latter should be left to grow. The cutter should
keep watch for blossom stems and pull them out or cut
them off near the ground as soon as seen. Not a seed
should be allowed to form, during the entire season. In
gathering the stalks take them away with a straight,
quick pull, whip off the leaf and scrape the root end, and
leave the stalks in small heaps, all pointed in one direc-
tion ready for the man who comes after to gather into
baskets or boxes, or into the cart. The leaves should be
spread over the weeds near the plants. Rhubarb leaves
will help smother all weeds and grass.

Packing and Shipping.—A good packing house is a
great convenience. It should be put up with especial
reference to the rhubarb crop, but will be found quite
suitable for other vegetables, also. A satisfactory build-
‘ing used by a Wisconsin specialist is illustrated herewith,

Sliding Qoor.

for piling rhubark

INTERIOR PLAN OF PACKING SHED.

together with interior plan. The floor dimensions are
18 x 36 feet. It is lightly built and the sides covered
with building paper. There is a door at each end and
a large sliding door at one side for convenience in load-
ing. The two tables are each three feet high, three feet

118 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE.

wide and 13 feet, six inches long, leaving three feet
passageways around and between the tables, and spaces
six feet and nine feet, respectively on each side. Cur-
tains should shade the windows enough to keep out part
of the light. A stove for keeping a fire in cold spring
weather is desirable, and a well and pump or other
source of water supply is a great convenience for wash-
ing the vegetables. Shelves over the tables are handy
for tools and twine.

The rhubarb is brought in and piled in the nine foot
space against the wall. The root ends are scraped and
it is transferred to the table, where one packer sizes the
bunches, another ties them and a third cuts the leaves.
It is then piled on the other side of the tables until
loaded for market. To avoid heating, it should not be
shipped in too large packages.

Insects and Blights——The rhubarb grower is fortu-
nate in being obliged to contend with only one insect
pest of any consequence. During the spring and early
summer, he is likely to notice some stalks with a gummy
substance about a puncture near the leaf, although it
sometimes appears quite close to the root. The gummy
substance is partially dried sap which leaks out from
the puncture produced by the work of the rhubarb
eurculio shown in the illustration: a is the grub worm
which does the actual damage. The grubs feed upon
the root as well as the stalk: 6 shows the pupa form and
c the full developed curculio which hatches from the
pupa. The grubs are about three-quarters of an inch
long, white in color with a brown head. The pupa is
whitish and about half an inch long. The grown beetles
are brownish and covered with yellowish dust. The
pictures are somewhat magnified and the exact size is
shown by the accompanying lines. Eggs are laid during

HINTS AND HELPS. 119

the spring and summer in the young flower stalk or
near the crown of the plant. They hatch in a few days,
and the grub goes to work at once on the root or stem,

THE RHUBARB CURCULIO.

growing rapidly and developing into bectles from August
to October according to the time of hatching. The in-
sect seems to prefer laying its eggs upon the flower
stalks of the yellow dock, and if the dock plants in the
neighborhood are destroyed and the rhubarb not allowed
to develop its flower stalk the number of eggs which
hatch will be very greatly reduced. The only other
remedy practiced is collecting and destroying the beetles
whenever noticed. If the dock plants are quite thorough-
ly disposed of, the insects will not do very serious dam-
age. An illustration shows the appearance of a section
of stalk which has been punctured and gnawed by the
curculio grub making it worthless for market purposes.

120 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE.

Late in the summer, a blight or “spot” disease attacks
the leaves, causing brown, blistered patches to appear on
the foliage. Finally the leaves are perforated with holes,
as the substance wastes away. This blight seems unable
to do any harm when the plant is in full vigor, but
makes its attack as soon as the growth becomes feeble.
Sickly hills, or those on dry ground are first affected.

STALK INJURED BY CURCULIO.

Sometimes the line of attack will show quite plainly in
a field, where the progress of the spotting is stopped by
the resisting power of plants on a strip of moister soil.
Spraying with bordeaux or carbonate of copper mixture
would probably check or prevent the spotting and thus
somewhat prolong the growing season. But growers
assume that the bight comes too late to do much harm
to the next year’s crop, and spraying is not attempted.

HINTS AND HELPS. ial

In several of the large rhubarb fields of Long Island,
another form of blight or similar disease has been
noticed, and is the cause of some uneasiness in that lo-
eality. This blight causes a yellow appearance of the
leaves, and a somewhat stunted growth. It appears much
earlier in the season than the ordinary blight which
attends the dying down of the foliage in September.
It appears mostly on hills which have been set three
years or more, and the effect is to seriously lessen the
vigor and productiveness. One of the New York ex-
periment stations is now engaged in a study of this
disease.

Culture of Medicinal Rhubarb.—Various attempts
have been made to raise the medicinal rhubarb in the
United States, and there is every reason to suppose the

PLANT OF THE MEDICINAL RHUBARB,

plant will thrive and yield a first quality product, when
grown in a mild climate. It does not seem to succeed
too far north. When on trial at the Massachusetts ex-
periment station it did not appear to thrive or to give
any promise of profitable growth and the plants were re-
moved.

122 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE.

The medicinal species is grown in the same way as
the varieties cultivated for stalks.” In field culture, a
light plow furrow should be made on each side of the
rows, thus covering the crown buds of the plants with
a layer of soil, which will form a ridge to throw off the
water and afford winter protection. In spring, this
ridge will be smoothed down with a light harrow. The
roots will be large enough for removal at the end of
four years’ growth, although it is claimed that a further
growth of one or two years increases their medicinal
value. The drug is often prescribed as a cathartic. The
following account of the medicinal variety and its cul-
tivation is by Mr. Wilham Saunders, late superintendent
of gardens and grounds at the U. 8S. department of
agriculture :—

It is now generally admitted that the true source of
the best rhubarb of commerce is Rheum officinale. This
species is a native of Thibet. If is a plant of robust
growth, often reaching five to six feet in height, and
produces large heavy masses of flowers. The leaves are
sometimes five feet long. The ordinary species of rhu-
barb are herbaceous perennials, with a thick rootstock
and deciduous leaves. In Rheum officinale, after the
third or fourth year from seed, the rootstock gradually
decays and a stem is formed above the ground; the plant
then derives its nourishment from small hear. which
cannot be employed in medicine. ‘These stems have thick
branches, often six to eight inches in diameter. The
portion used in medicine is therefore the stem, and not
the rhizome or root.

Seeing that the sources of rhubarb are so numerous,
it may well be expected that its commercial distinctions
and medicinal values are equally varied. The quality of
the article will be influenced by its botanical origin,
the climate and soil in which it was grown, the age of
the root, the season when gathered, the method of collec-
tion, the process of drying, and its final preparation for

HINTS AND HELPS. 1

market. The portion of the plant which constitutes the
drug will also influence its value. The article furnished
by the stem, or a part very close to the stem, will differ

from one obtained from the root. Good rhubarb has a
bitter, astringent, and somewhat aromatic taste, and
feels evitty to the teeth, owing to the abundance of small
cry stals of oxalate of lime which are contained in it. It
has a very delicate odor, and is covered with a fine yellow
powder, and the pieces when broken present a mottled
red and yellow color, owing to the passage of a number

of wavy carmine-colored streaks through the yellowish-
white matrix. Here and there are small spots of a dark-
er color.

It is considered that very much of the appearance,
and supposed difference in quality, of the commercial
rhubarb is wholly owing to the time of lifting the root
and the care given to its preparation for market. The
Chinese dig up the roots early in spring, just before
the leaves appear. After lifting, the roots are divested
of all small fibers, and the soil and other impurities re-
moved by washing. Thev are then allowed to dry a day
or two in the sun, then cut in slices, and after exposure
to the sun for four or five days longer, during which
time they must be turned over several times daily. to
prevent molding, a hole is bored in each slice, which is
then strung on a thread until sufficiently dry. They are
put through a finishing process by being placed in a
close cylinder, where they are subjected to abrasion by
the rapid revolution of the vessel. This smooths their
surfaces, liberating at the same time a fine dust or
powder, which envelops each piece with a fine bloom,
like that upon the surface of a ripe plum. <A considera-
ble quantity of rhubarb root is imported into this
country for medicinal purposes. This might profitably
be grown here, provided that species of “plants which
yield the best article could be procured for that purpose.
Large quantities are grown in England. The English
rhubarb is of a hght spongy texture: its taste is astrin-
gent and mucilaginous, but destitute of the aromatic
and gritty qualities possessed by the more highly esteem-

124 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE.

ed kinds. It is probable that the root as grown in the
warmer climates of this country would be equal to the
best article of the kind now in commerce. The slow
sun-drying process adopted in other countries might here
be completed in a few hours in a drying apparatus by
artificial heat. ‘This would insure against danger from
moldiness and secure good color and flavor with more
certainty than when the drving process is wholly depend-
ent upon the direct heat of the sun.

Rhubarb for Home Use.-—The culture of rhubarb,
or pie plant, for home use, is too much neglected in the
average country districts. Almost every family would
use considerable of the vegetable in early spring if an
ample supply were at hand. The plant will stand a
great deal of neglect, being a relative of the yellow dock,
and almost as hard to kill. Of course in growing for
market there is no profit unless the plant is given the
best of care and fertilization, but enough could be pro-
duced for home use by almost any method. <A few roots
set out the south side of a garden wall will start early,
and furnish abundance of material for making pies,
dumplings, sauces, etc., in the spring and early summer.
This supply is especially welcome after a winter in which
apples have been scarce. Families who move on to a
new farm will find that the quickest way to produce a
supply of material for pies, sauces etc., is to set out
rhubarb plants. If these are obtained by dividing old
hills they will begin growing at once, and can be pulled
a little the first season. The vegetable is one of the
easiest to preserve by canning, preserve in glass jars
being nearly as fine flavored as the fresh gathered article.
It is also good to preserve by drying, cutting it in
short pieces and drying in the same manner as sliced
apples, or running them through an evaporator. The
stalks may be cooked before drying if preferred. When

HINTS AND HELPS. 125

ready for use soak and use the same as dried apples, or
mixed with dried apples for sauces and pies. A dozen
hills will supply an average family. Linneus is the
best kind for home use.

For Seed Raising, select the earliest, highest colored
and most luxuriant plants. Allow but few seed stalks
to mature from each hill. When the seed becomes dry
and brown, bring the stalks indoors and strip off the
seed, spreading it out thin in a dry room away from rats
and mice. When thoroughly dry, store in tin boxes until
wanted. It should be all used the first or second season,
and will usually come up very poorly if kept until the
third spring. Seed is not produced in abundance until
the plants are three years old. Production of seed always
lessens the crop of the following year. Do not allow
the seed to become ripened and to scatter about the
farm, as the young plants are almost as hard to kill as
their relative, the yellow dock. One pound will sow
about six average hotbed frames and should yield at
least 1,000 plants.

Rhubarb seed is sometimes sown in the fall and will
start a little earlier in the spring by that method, but
will not come up so evenly. In thinning, some allowance
may be made for the variety grown. The Linneus will
do very well two feet apart in the rows, the rows being
four feet apart. The Victoria and other large kinds do
better and are also more easily cultivated four feet apart
each way, while the Mammoth and other giant kinds
may be grown to advantage 4 x 5 feet.

The Seed Bed should be on moist loamy soil, well
drained but not suffering greatly from drouth. It
cannot be made too rich, and nothing is better than
plenty of well rotted stable manure supplemented with
a sprinkling of nitrate of soda, The drills for seeds

126 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE.

should be about one inch deep. They may be covered
with a hoe, and should be well pressed down with the
foot. The cultivation of the young plants consists mere-
ly of keeping the soil about them light and free from
grass and weeds. In a small patch this work can be done

SEEDLING AND Root CUTTING.

with a hoe and rake, and a little hand weeding is neces-
sary before the plants get large enough to shade the
rows. Directions for propagation from roots and from
seed, sown either under glass or in the open ground,
are given in Part I. There is but little essential differ-
ence between a well grown seedling root and a well
selected cutting from an overgrown hill. But the root
clumps sometimes sold for transplanting, resemble a mis-
shapen club more than a plant, and will make slow
growth. Thrifty, branching roots are best.

The Food Value of rhubarb seems to consist almost
entirely in its tonic properties obtained from the mineral
matters which give it its acid quality. The food analy-

HINTS AND HELPS. 5 WARE

sis made at Storrs experiment station, 1891, shows that
the stems contain 92.7 per cent of water, leaving only
7.3 for the nutritive and flavoring constituents. There
is only eight-tenths of one per cent protein, 1.2 per cent
fat, 4.4 per cent glucose and nine-tenths of one per
cent mineral matter. It is considered as a food no more
nutritive than an equal weight of turnips, but its value
as a strong tonic and appetizer is well known and de-
pends on the stimulating and corrective qualities of the
oxalic acid which the plant contains.

Fertilizing Constituents of Rhubarb —Rhubarb con-
tains considerable nitrogen and phosphoric acid, which
explains the good results of using nitrate of soda and
wood ashes as fertilizers. The lime in the ashes also
sometimes produces important effects by sweetening the
soil. Analyses of the root as published by the U.S. de-
‘partment of agriculture show a.composition of 91.67 per
cent moisture. There is 00.55, or about one-half of one
per cent of nitrogen and practically the same amount of
potash (00.53), while of phosphoric acid there is only
00.06 per cent. The stems and leaves are more watery
than the roots, with 92.7 per cent moisture. They also
hold 00.13 per cent nitrogen, 00.02 per cent phosphoric
acid, and 00.36 per cent potash.

Irrigation has been tried with good success at Iowa
station, the plants being set 4 x 3 feet in rich soil, and
the water applied to the surface. The result was a
rapid and very crisp growth. Varieties tested were
Linneus and Victoria. Montana experiment station has
also succeeded with rhubarb under irrigation, “the yield
being large and the quality all that was to be desired.”
Rhubarb is grown successfully under irrigation at Colo-
rado experiment station.

Field Jottings—Too much crowding in the field

128 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE.

is perhaps the most common and most serious mistake.
4 x 4 feet is plenty close enough.

No great profits without lavish manuring. Ten cords
of the average manure is about what the large growers
expect to use every year on good land: 25 to 50 big loads
will be somewhere near right. Some find it pays them
to use more. Nobody should start a large field of this
hungry vegetable, who is not able and willing to get
as much manure as it needs.

For handling roots use a long handle spade, a round-
cornered shovel and a wide, flat-pointed crowbar. This
outfit will make it easy to dig roots for new plantings.

Large growers make considerable money selling roots
for planting, at $7 to $15 per 100. Roots are shipped
in barrels or boxes, packed in moss or cut straw.

The very earliest crops are on light soils fertilized
abundantly with manure and nitrate of soda and well
soaked in a dry time with artificial water supply.

Rhubarb is such a rank feeder that nothing comes
amiss. Small animals which are found dead on the
farm are best disposed of by burying near the rhubarb
hills. No injury results to the plants, and if so treated
they produce enormous stalks.

Cultivation is very easy because the great leaves
shade the ground and choke out weeds, and the same
leaves after cutting, if spread along the roots, also assist
in keeping down the weeds, so that the main thing for
cultivation is to keep the ground fairly mellow, and
work in whatever manure is applied.

The plants are hard to kill and stand most any kind
of ill treatment when transplanting, but it is best to
handle them carefully, and set during a wet time in
order not to lose any of the season’s growth.

The great secret of success in raising asparagus and

HINTS AND HELPS. 129

rhubarb is high manuring. Both plants are gross feed-
ers. They produce so many stalks and leaves and they
grow so rapidly that they require a liberal application
of manure every year. Quickness of growth is con-
ducive to the quality and tenderness in any edible vege-
table, and this cannot be obtained in a poor soil.

Rhubarb needs a deep and very fertile soil, and it
is useless to expect to grow it in a thin, dry soil, unless
under irrigation. Not that it needs wet ground by any
means, but a soil retentive of moisture and rather in-
clined to clay; though good rhubarb can be grown in
quite a sandy soil if it be well manured. No amount of
fertilizer we have ever tried will take the place of stable
manure with this plant. The organic matter in the
manure making the soil more retentive of moisture,
-makes it indispensable when large and succulent stalks
are desired.

The stalks of rhubarb are excellent substitutes for
fruit, and the culture of this plant may therefore be
commended to farmers who have taken up new places.
By sowing rhubarb seed they can supply themselves with
a substitute for fruit several years before they can bring
trees, vines, and bushes into bearing.

A grower whose small patch produces rhubarb of
enormous size, explains his success from his practice
of throwing soapsuds over the ground on washing days.
He has sold $30 worth from the patch of two and one-
half rods in a single season. Manure from the hogpen is
also applied and would no doubt of itself produce a good
yield.

Profits from the outdoor crop are difficult to estimate
because so much depends upon earliness. All the cream
of the product comes from the early part of the crop.
Rhubarb at five to 10 cents per pound is one of the

130 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE.

best of money crops. When the quotations drop to half
a cent per pound, it is hardly worth while to go to the
expense of gathering it and shipping. The hills are
weakened by gathering too late in the season, and many
growers will not ship when the price gets below one
cent per pound. Receipts vary from $100 to $500 per
acre and the difference is mainly in the soil and ferti-
lization, which are the factors affecting earliness.

i

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